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Temples of
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Temples of Angkor
Angkor Wat ................ 130
Angkor Thom . ............139
Bayon . ........................139
Baphuon .....................142
Preah Khan .................148
Preah Neak Poan.........149
Ta Som ....................... 150
Roluos Temples .......... 151
Phnom Krom ..............152
Koh Ker .......................156
Best Temples
for Sunrise
or Sunset
¨¨Angkor Wat (p130)
¨¨Bayon (p139)
¨¨Phnom Bakheng (p144)
¨¨Pre Rup (p150)
¨¨Sra Srang (p147)
Why Go?
Welcome to heaven on earth. Angkor (ប្រាសាទ​អង្គរ) is the
earthly representation of Mt Meru, the Mt Olympus of the
Hindu faith and the abode of ancient gods. The temples are
the perfect fusion of creative ambition and spiritual devo-
tion. The Cambodian ‘god-kings’ of old each strove to better
their ancestors in size, scale and symmetry, culminating in
the world’s largest religious building, Angkor Wat.
The temples of Angkor are a source of inspiration and
national pride to all Khmers as they struggle to rebuild their
lives after years of terror and trauma. Today, the temples
are a point of pilgrimage for all Cambodians, and no travel-
ler to the region will want to miss their extravagant beauty.
Angkor is one of the world’s foremost ancient sites, with the
epic proportions of the Great Wall of China, the detail and
intricacy of the Taj Mahal and the symbolism and symmetry
of the pyramids, all rolled into one.
Don’t Miss
¨¨Seeing the sun rise over the holiest of holies, Angkor Wat
(p130), the world’s largest religious building
¨¨Contemplating the serenity and splendour of Bayon (p139),
its 216 enigmatic faces staring out into the jungle
¨¨Witnessing nature reclaiming the stones at the mysterious
ruin of Ta Prohm (p146), the Tomb Raider temple

Best Temples ¨¨Staring in wonder at the delicate carvings adorning

Banteay Srei (p153), the finest seen at Angkor
for Film Buffs ¨¨Trekking deep into the jungle to discover the River of a
¨¨Angkor Wat (p130) Thousand Lingas at Kbal Spean (p153)
¨¨Bayon (p139) ¨¨Exploring the tangled vines, crumbling corridors and
¨¨Beng Mealea (p155) jumbled sandstone blocks of Beng Mealea (p155)
¨¨East Gate of Angkor Thom
(p139)
¨¨Ta Prohm (p146)

History
The Angkorian period spans more than 600
years from AD 802 to 1432. This incredible
age saw the construction of the temples of
Angkor and the consolidation of the Khmer
empire’s position as one of the great pow-
ers in Southeast Asia. This era encompasses
periods of decline and revival, and wars with
rival powers in Vietnam, Thailand and My-
anmar. This brief history deals only with the
periods that produced the temples that can
be seen at Angkor.
The hundreds of surviving temples are but
the sacred skeleton of the vast political, reli-
gious and social centre of Cambodia’s ancient
Khmer empire; a city that, at its zenith, boast-
ed a population of one million when London
was a small town of 50,000. The houses,
public buildings and palaces of Angkor were
constructed of wood – now long decayed – be-
cause the right to dwell in structures of brick
or stone was reserved for the gods.
An Empire is Born
The Angkorian period began with the rule
of Jayavarman II (r 802–50). He was the first
to unify Cambodia’s competing kingdoms
before the birth of Angkor. His court was sit-
uated at various locations, including Phnom
Kulen, 40km northeast of Angkor Wat, and
Roluos (known then as Hariharalaya), 13km
east of Siem Reap.
Jayavarman II proclaimed himself a de-
varaja (god-king), the earthly representative
of the Hindu god Shiva, and built a ‘temple-
mountain’ at Phnom Kulen, symbolising
Shiva’s dwelling place of Mt Meru, the holy
mountain at the centre of the universe. This
set a precedent that became a dominant fea-
ture of the Angkorian period and accounts
for the staggering architectural productivity
of the Khmers at this time.
Indravarman I (r 877–89) is believed to
have been a usurper, and probably inherited
the mantle of devaraja through conquest. He
built a 6.5-sq-km baray (reservoir) at Roluos
and established Preah Ko. The baray was the
first stage of an irrigation system that created
a hydraulic city, the ancient Khmers master-
ing the cycle of nature to water their lands.
Form and function worked together in har-
mony, as the baray also had religious signifi-
cance, representing the oceans surrounding
Mt Meru. Indravarman’s final work was Ba-
kong, a pyramidal representation of Mt Meru.
Indravarman I’s son Yasovarman I (r
889–910) looked further afield to celebrate
1 19
his divinity and glory in a temple-mountain
of his own. He first built Lolei on an artifi-
cial island in the baray established by his fa-
ther, before beginning work on the Bakheng.
Today this hill is known as Phnom Bakheng,
a favoured spot for viewing the sunset over
Angkor Wat. A raised highway was con-
structed to connect Phnom Bakheng with
Roluos, 16km to the southeast, and a large
baray was constructed to the east of Phnom
Bakheng. Today it is known as the Eastern
Baray but has entirely silted up. Yasovarman
I also established the temple-mountains of
Phnom Krom and Phnom Bok.
After the death of Yasovarman I, power
briefly shifted from the Angkor region to
Koh Ker, around 80km to the northeast,
under another usurper king, Jayavarman IV
Temples of Angkor H
(r 924–42). In AD 944 power returned again
to Angkor under the leadership of Rajendra-
varman II (r 944–68), who built the Eastern
Mebon and Pre Rup. The reign of his son
Jayavarman V (r 968–1001) produced the Ta
Keo and Banteay Srei temples; the latter was
built by a Brahman rather than the king.
The Golden Age of Angkor
The temples that are now the highlight of a
 I S TO R Y
visit to Angkor – Angkor Wat and those in
and around the walled city of Angkor Thom –
were built during the golden age or classi-
cal period. While this period is marked by
fits of remarkable productivity, it was also a
time of turmoil, conquests and setbacks. The
great city of Angkor Thom owes its existence
to the fact that the old city of Angkor, which
stood on the same site, was destroyed dur-
ing the Cham invasion of 1177.
Suryavarman I (r 1002–49) was a usurp-
er to the throne who won the day through
strategic alliances and military conquests.
Although he adopted the Hindu cult of the
god-king, he is thought to have come from a
Mahayana Buddhist tradition and may even
have sponsored the growth of Buddhism
in Cambodia. Buddhist sculpture certainly
became more commonplace in the Angkor
region during his time.
Little physical evidence of Suryavarman
I’s reign remains at Angkor, but his military
exploits brought much of central Thailand
and southern-central Laos under the control
of Angkor. His son Udayadityavarman II (r
1049–65) embarked on further military expe-
ditions, extending the empire once more, and
building Baphuon and the Western Mebon.
Many major cities in the Mekong region were
important Khmer settlements in the 11th and
1 20

Temples of Angkor
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Temples of Angkor 

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Temples of Angkor 
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1 22
Temples of Angkor
æ Top Sights
1 Angkor Wat .............................................. D3
2 Bayon ....................................................... D2
3 Ta Prohm ..................................................E2
æ Sights
4 Bakong .................................................... H6
5 Baksei Chamkrong ................................. D2
6 Banteay Kdei ............................................E2
7 Banteay Samré ....................................... G2
8 Baphuon................................................... D2
9 Chau Say Tevoda .....................................E2
10 Eastern Mebon.........................................F2
11 Lolei .......................................................... H5
12 Phnom Bakheng...................................... D2
13 Phnom Bok ...............................................H1
14 Phnom Krom ........................................... B7
15 Prasat Chrung ......................................... D2
Temples of Angkor H
16 Prasat Kravan...........................................E3
17 Pre Rup......................................................F2
18 Preah Khan ...............................................D1
19 Preah Ko................................................... H5
20 Preah Neak Poan ..................................... E1
12th centuries, including the Lao capital of
Vientiane and the Thai city of Lopburi.
From 1066 until the end of the century,
 I S TO R Y
Angkor was again divided as rival factions
contested the throne. The first important
monarch of this new era was Suryavar-
man II (r 1112–52), who unified Cambodia
and extended Khmer influence to Malaya
and Myanmar (Burma). He also set himself
apart religiously from earlier kings through
his devotion to the Hindu deity Vishnu, to
whom he consecrated the largest and argu-
ably most magnificent of all the Angkorian
temples, Angkor Wat.
The reign of Suryavarman II and the
construction of Angkor Wat signifies one of
the high-water marks of Khmer civilisation.
However, there were signs that decline was
lurking. It is thought that the hydraulic sys-
tem of reservoirs and canals that supported
the agriculture of Angkor had by this time
been pushed beyond its limits, and was
slowly starting to silt up due to overpopula-
tion and deforestation. The construction of
Angkor Wat was a major strain on resources,
and, on top of this, Suryavarman II led a dis-
astrous campaign against the Dai Viet (Viet-
namese) late in his reign, during the course
of which he was killed in battle.
Enter Jayavarman VII
In 1177 the Chams of southern Vietnam, then
the Kingdom of Champa and long annexed
21 Spean Thmor ............................................E1
22 Sra Srang.................................................. F2
23 Ta Keo ....................................................... E2
24 Ta Nei .........................................................E1
25 Ta Som.......................................................F1
26 Thommanon..............................................E1
27 Western Mebon .......................................B2
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
28 Angkor Balloon ........................................D3
ú Eating
Angkor Reach Restaurant............(see 29)
29 Blue Pumpkin...........................................D3
30 Chez Sophea............................................D3
31 Khmer Angkor Restaurant .....................D3
þ Shopping
32 Dy Proeung Master Sculptor .................H5
33 Khmer Group Art of Weaving.................H5
Lo-Yuyu...........................................(see 34)
34 Prolung Khmer.........................................H5
by the Khmer empire, rose up and sacked
Angkor. This attack caught the Khmers com-
pletely by surprise, as it came via sea, river
and lake rather than the traditional land
routes. The Chams burnt the wooden city
and plundered its wealth. Four years later
Jayavarman VII (r 1181–1219) struck back,
emphatically driving the Chams out of Cam-
bodia and reclaiming Angkor.
Jayavarman VII’s reign has given scholars
much to debate. It represents a radical de-
parture from the reigns of his predecessors.
For centuries the fount of royal divinity had
reposed in the Hindu deity Shiva (and, oc-
casionally, Vishnu). Jayavarman VII adopted
Mahayana Buddhism and looked to Avalok-
iteshvara, the Bodhisattva of Compassion,
for patronage during his reign. In doing so
he may well have been converting to a reli-
gion that already enjoyed wide popular sup-
port among his subjects. It may also be that
the destruction of Angkor was such a blow
to royal divinity that a new religious founda-
tion was thought to be needed.
During his reign, Jayavarman VII em-
barked on a dizzying array of temple
projects that centred on Baphuon, which
was the site of the capital city destroyed
by the Chams. Angkor Thom, Jayavarman
VII’s new city, was surrounded by walls and
a moat, which became another component
of Angkor’s complex irrigation system. The
centrepiece of Angkor Thom was Bayon, the

temple-mountain studded with faces that,
along with Angkor Wat, is the most famous
of Cambodia’s temples. Other temples built
during his reign include Ta Prohm, Banteay
Kdei and Preah Khan. Further away, he re-
built vast temple complexes, such as Banteay
Chhmar and Preah Khan in Preah Vihear
Province, making him by far the most pro-
lific builder of Angkor’s many kings.
Jayavarman VII also embarked on a ma-
jor public-works program, building roads,
schools and hospitals across the empire.
Remains of many of these roads and their
magnificent bridges can be seen across
Cambodia. Spean Praptos at Kompong Kdei,
65km southeast of Siem Reap on National
Hwy 6 (NH6), is the most famous, but there
are many more lost in the forest on the old
Angkorian road to the great Preah Khan,
including the now accessible Spean Ta Ong,
about 28km east of Beng Mealea near the
village of Khvau.
After the death of Jayavarman VII around
1219, the Khmer empire went into decline.
The state religion reverted to Hinduism for
a century or more and outbreaks of icono-
clasm saw Buddhist sculpture adorning the
Hindu temples vandalised or altered. The
Thais sacked Angkor in 1351, and again with
devastating efficiency in 1431. The glorious
Siamese capital of Ayuthaya, which enjoyed
a golden age from the 14th to the 18th cen-
turies, was in many ways a recreation of the
glories of Angkor from which the Thai con-
querors drew inspiration. The Khmer court
moved to Phnom Penh, only to return fleet-
ingly to Angkor in the 16th century; in the
meantime, it was abandoned to pilgrims,
holy men and the elements.
Angkor Rediscovered
The French ‘discovery’ of Angkor in the
1860s made an international splash and cre-
ated a great deal of outside interest in Cam-
bodia. But ‘discovery’, with all the romance
it implied, was something of a misnomer.
When French explorer Henri Mouhot first
stumbled across Angkor Wat on his Royal
Geographic Society expedition, it included a
wealthy, working monastery with monks and
slaves. Moreover, Portuguese travellers in the
16th century encountered Angkor, referring
to it as the Walled City. Diego do Couto pro-
duced an accurate description of Angkor in
1614, but it was not published until 1958. A
17th-century Japanese pilgrim drew a de-
tailed plan of Angkor Wat, though he mis-
takenly recalled that he had seen it in India.
123
Still, it was the publication of Voyage à
Siam et dans le Cambodge by Mouhot, post-
humously released in 1868, that first brought
Angkor to the public eye. Although the ex-
plorer himself made no such claims, by the
1870s he was being celebrated as the discov-
erer of the lost temple-city of Cambodia. In
fact, a French missionary known as Charles-
Emile Bouillevaux had visited Angkor 10
years before Mouhot and had published an
account of his own findings. However, the
Bouillevaux account was roundly ignored
and it was Mouhot’s account, with its rich
descriptions and tantalising pen-and-ink col-
our sketches of the temples, that turned the
ruins into an international obsession.
Soon after Mouhot, other adventur-
ers and explorers began to arrive. Scottish
Temples of Angkor A
photographer John Thomson took the first
photographs of the temples in 1866. He was
the first Westerner to posit the idea that
they were symbolic representations of the
mythical Mt Meru. French architect Lucien
Fournereau travelled to Angkor in 1887 and
produced plans and meticulously executed
cross-sections that were to stand as the best
available until the 1960s.
 R C H A EO LO GY O F A N G KO R
From this time, Angkor became the target
of French-financed expeditions and, in 1901,
the École Française d’Extrême-Orient
(EFEO; www.efeo.fr) began a long associa-
tion with Angkor by funding an expedition
to Bayon. In 1907 Angkor was returned to
Cambodia, having been under Thai control
for more than a century, and the EFEO took
responsibility for clearing and restoring the
whole site. In the same year, the first foreign
tourists arrived in Angkor – an unprecedent-
ed 200 of them in three months. Angkor had
been ‘rescued’ from the jungle and was as-
suming its place in the modern world.
Archaeology of Angkor
With the exception of Angkor Wat, which
was restored for use as a Buddhist shrine in
the 16th century by the Khmer royalty, the
temples of Angkor were left to the jungle for
many centuries. The majority of temples are
made of sandstone, which tends to dissolve
when in prolonged contact with dampness.
Bat droppings took their toll, as did sporadic
pilfering of sculptures and cut stones. At
some monuments, such as Ta Prohm, the
jungle had stealthily waged an all-out inva-
sion, and plant life could only be removed at
great risk to the structures it now supported
in its web of roots.
1 24
Initial attempts to clear Angkor under the
aegis of the EFEO were fraught with techni-
cal difficulties and theoretical disputes. On
a technical front, the jungle tended to grow
back as soon as it was cleared; on a theo-
retical front, scholars debated the extent
to which temples should be restored and
whether later additions, such as Buddha im-
ages in Hindu temples, should be removed.
It was not until the 1920s that a solution
was found, known as anastylosis. This was
the method the Dutch had used to restore
Borobudur in Java. Put simply, it was a way
of reconstructing monuments using the
original materials and in keeping with the
original form of the structure. New materi-
als were permitted only where the originals
could not be found, and were to be used
Temples of Angkor  A R C H A EO LO GY O F A N G KO R
istry of Culture teams had removed many of
the statues from the temple sites for protec-
tion. Nevertheless, turmoil in Cambodia re-
sulted in a long interruption of restoration
work, allowing the jungle to resume its as-
sault on the monuments. The illegal trade of
objets d’art on the world art market has also
been a major threat to Angkor, although it
is the more remote sites that have been tar-
geted recently. Angkor has been under the
jurisdiction of the UN Educational Scientific
and Cultural Organization (Unesco) since
1992 as a World Heritage Site, and interna-
tional and local efforts continue to preserve
and reconstruct the monuments. In a sign
of real progress, Angkor was removed from
Unesco’s endangered list in 2003.
Many of Angkor’s secrets remain to be

discreetly. An example of this method can
be seen on the causeway leading to the en-
trance of Angkor Wat, as the right-hand side
was originally restored by the French.
The first major restoration job was carried
out on Banteay Srei in 1930. It was deemed
such a success that many more extensive res-
toration projects were undertaken elsewhere
around Angkor, culminating in the massive
Angkor Wat restoration in the 1960s. Large
cranes and earth-moving machines were
brought in, and the operation was backed by
a veritable army of surveying equipment.
The Khmer Rouge victory and Cambodia’s
subsequent slide into an intractable civil
war resulted in far less damage to Angkor
than many had assumed, as EFEO and Min-
discovered, as most of the work at the tem-
ples has concentrated on restoration efforts
above ground rather than archaeological
digs and surveys below. Underground is
where the real story of Angkor and its peo-
ple lies – the inscriptions on the temples
give us only a partial picture of the gods to
whom each structure was dedicated, and the
kings who built them.
To learn more about Unesco’s activities at
Angkor, visit http://whc.unesco.org, or take
a virtual tour of Angkor in 360 degrees at
www.world-heritage-tour.org. For a great
online photographic resource on the tem-
ples of Angkor, look no further than www.
angkor-ruins.com, a Japanese website with
an English translation.

TOP 10 KINGS OF ANGKOR

A mind-numbing array of kings ruled the Khmer empire from the 9th to the 14th centu-
ries AD. All of their names include the word ‘varman’, which means ‘armour’ or ‘protec-
tor’. Forget the small fry and focus on the big fish in our Top 10:
Jayavarman II (r 802–50) Founder of the Khmer empire in AD 802.
Indravarman I (r 877–89) Builder of the first baray (reservoir), Preah Ko and Bakong.
Yasovarman I (r 889–910) Moved the capital to Angkor and built Lolei and Phnom
Bakheng.
Jayavarman IV (r 924–42) Usurper king who moved the capital to Koh Ker.
Rajendravarman II (r 944–68) Builder of Eastern Mebon, Pre Rup and Phimeanakas.
Jayavarman V (r 968–1001) Oversaw construction of Ta Keo and Banteay Srei.
Suryavarman I (r 1002–49) Expanded the empire into much of Laos and Thailand.
Udayadityavarman II (r 1049–65) Builder of the pyramidal Baphuon and the Western
Mebon.
Suryavarman II (r 1112–52) Legendary builder of Angkor Wat and Beng Mealea.
Jayavarman VII (r 1181–1219) The king of the god-kings, building Angkor Thom, Preah
Khan and Ta Prohm.

Architectural Styles
From the time of the earliest Angkorian
monuments at Roluos, Khmer architecture
was continually evolving, often from the
rule of one king to the next. Archaeologists
therefore divide the monuments of Angkor
into nine periods, named after the foremost
example of each period’s architectural style.
The evolution of Khmer architecture was
based on a central theme of the temple-
mountain, preferably set on a real hill (but
an artificial hill was allowed if there weren’t
any mountains at hand). The earlier a tem-
ple was constructed, the more closely it ad-
heres to this fundamental idea. Essentially,
the mountain was represented by a tower
mounted on a tiered base. At the summit
was the central sanctuary, usually with an
open door to the east, and three false doors
at the remaining cardinal points of the com-
pass. For Indian Hindus, the Himalayas rep-
resent Mt Meru, the home of the gods, while
the Khmer kings of old adopted Phnom Ku-
len as their symbolic Mt Meru.
By the time of the Bakheng period, this
layout was being embellished. The summit
of the central tower was crowned with five
‘peaks’ – four at the points of the compass
and one in the centre. Angkor Wat features
this layout, though on a grandiose scale.
Other features that came to be favoured in-
clude an entry tower and a causeway lined
with naga (mythical serpent) balustrades
leading up to the temple.
As the temples grew in ambition, the cen-
tral tower became a less prominent feature,
although it remained the focus of the temple.
Later temples saw the central tower flanked
by courtyards and richly decorated galleries.
Smaller towers were placed on gates and on
the corners of walls, their overall number of-
ten of religious or astrological significance.
These refinements and additions eventu-
ally culminated in Angkor Wat, which effec-
tively showcases the evolution of Angkorian
architecture. The architecture of the Bayon
period breaks with tradition in temples
such as Ta Prohm and Preah Khan. In these
temples, the horizontal layout of the galler-
ies, corridors and courtyards seems to com-
pletely eclipse the central tower.
The curious narrowness of the corridors
and doorways in these structures can be ex-
plained by the fact that Angkorian architects
never mastered the flying buttress to build a
full arch. They engineered arches by laying
blocks on top of each other, until they met at
125
TEMPLE ADDICTS
The god-kings of Angkor were dedi-
cated builders. Each king was expected
to dedicate a temple to his patron god,
most commonly Shiva or Vishnu during
the time of Angkor. Then there were
the ancestors, including mother, father,
and grandparents (both maternal and
paternal), which meant another half
dozen temples or more. Finally there
was the mausoleum or king’s temple,
intended to deify the monarch and
project his power, and each of these
had to be bigger and better than one’s
predecessor. This accounts for the
staggering architectural productivity
Temples of Angkor A
of the Khmers at this time and the epic
evolution of temple architecture.
a central point; known as false arches, they
can only support very short spans.
Most of the major sandstone blocks
around Angkor include small circular holes.
These originally held wooden stakes that
were used to lift and position the stones
 R C H I T EC T U R A L S T Y L E S
during construction before being sawn off.
Climate
Avoid the sweltering temperatures of March
to May. November to February is the best
time of year to travel, but this is no secret,
so it coincides with peak season. And peak
season really is mountainous in this day
and age, where more than two million visi-
tors a year descend on Angkor. The summer
months of July and August can be a surpris-
ingly rewarding time, as the landscape is
emerald green, the moats overflowing with
water, and the moss and lichen in bright
contrast to the grey sandstone.
Itineraries
Back in the early days of tourism, the prob-
lem of what to see and in what order came
down to two basic temple itineraries: the
Small (Petit) Circuit and the Big (Grand)
Circuit. It’s difficult to imagine that anyone
follows these to the letter any more, but in
their time they were an essential component
of the Angkor experience and were often un-
dertaken on the back of an elephant.
Small Circuit
The 17km Small Circuit begins at Angkor Wat
and heads north to Phnom Bakheng, Baksei
1 26
Chamkrong and Angkor Thom, including
the city wall and gates, the Bayon, the Bap-
huon, the Royal Enclosure, Phimeanakas,
Preah Palilay, the Terrace of the Leper King,
the Terrace of Elephants, the Kleangs and
Prasat Suor Prat. It exits from Angkor Thom
via the Victory Gate in the eastern wall, and
continues to Chau Say Tevoda, Thommanon,
Spean Thmor and Ta Keo. It then heads
northeast of the road to Ta Nei, turns south
to Ta Prohm, continues east to Banteay Kdei
and Sra Srang, and finally returns to Angkor
Wat via Prasat Kravan.
Big Circuit
The 26km Big Circuit is an extension of the
Small Circuit: instead of exiting the walled
city of Angkor Thom at the east gate, the
Grand Circuit exits at the north gate and
continues to Preah Khan and Preah Neak
Poan, east to Ta Som, then south via the
Eastern Mebon to Pre Rup. From there it

MOTIFS, SYMBOLS & CHARACTERS AROUND ANGKOR

The temples of Angkor are intricately carved with myths and legends, symbols and
signs, and a cast of characters in the thousands. Deciphering them can be quite a chal-
lenge, so here we’ve highlighted some of the most commonly seen around the majestic
Temples of Angkor I T I N E R A R I E S

temples. For more help understanding the carvings of Angkor, pick up a copy of Images
of the Gods by Vittorio Roveda.
Apsaras Heavenly nymphs or goddesses, also known as devadas; these beautiful
female forms decorate the walls of many temples.
Asuras These devils feature extensively in representations of the Churning of the Ocean
of Milk, such as at Angkor Wat.
Devas The ‘good gods’ in the creation myth of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk.
Flame The flame motif is found flanking steps and doorways and is intended to purify
pilgrims as they enter the temple.
Garuda Vehicle of Vishnu; this half-man, half-bird creature features in some temples
and was combined with his old enemy the nagas to promote religious unity under
Jayavarman VII.
Kala The temple guardian appointed by Shiva; he had such an appetite that he de-
voured his own body and appears only as a giant head above doorways. Also known as
Rehu.
Linga A phallic symbol of fertility, lingas would have originally been located within the
towers of most Hindu temples.
Lotus Another symbol of purity, the lotus features extensively in the shape of towers,
the shape of steps to entrances and in decoration.
Makara A giant sea serpent with a reticulated jaw; features on the corner of pediments,
spewing forth a naga or some other creature.
Naga The multiheaded serpent, half-brother and enemy of garudas. Controls the rains
and, therefore, the prosperity of the kingdom; seen on causeways, doorways and roofs.
The seven-headed naga, a feature at many temples, represents the rainbow, which acts
as a bridge between heaven and earth.
Nandi The mount of Shiva; there are several statues of Nandi dotted about the temples,
although many have been damaged or stolen by looters.
Rishi A Hindu wise man or ascetic, also known as essai; these bearded characters are
often seen sitting cross-legged at the base of pillars or flanking walls.
Vine Yet another symbol of purity, the vine graces doorways and lintels and is meant to
help cleanse the visitor on their journey to this heaven on earth, the abode of the gods.
Yama God of death who presides over the underworld and passes judgment on whether
people continue to heaven or hell.
Yoni Female fertility symbol that is combined with the linga to produce holy water in-
fused with fertility.
 127
HIDDEN RICHES, POLITICAL HITCHES
Angkor Conservation is a Ministry of Culture compound on the banks of the Siem
Reap River, about 400m east of the Sofitel Phokheetra Royal Angkor Hotel. The com-
pound houses more than 5000 statues, lingas (phallic symbols) and inscribed stelae,
stored here to protect them from the wanton looting that has blighted hundreds of
sites around Angkor. The finest statuary is hidden away inside Angkor Conservation’s
warehouses, meticulously numbered and catalogued. Unfortunately, without the right
contacts, trying to get a peek at the statues is a lost cause. Some of the statuary is on
public display in the Angkor National Museum in Siem Reap, but it is only a fraction of
the collection.
Formerly housed at Angkor Conservation, but now going it alone in an impressive
headquarters on one of the main roads to Angkor, is Apsara Authority (Authority
for Protection & Management of Angkor & the Region of Siem Reap; www.autoriteapsara.
org). This organisation is responsible for the research, protection and conservation of
cultural heritage around Angkor, as well as urban planning in Siem Reap and tourism
development in the region. It’s quite a mandate and quite a challenge – especially
now that the government is taking such a keen interest in its work. Angkor is a money-

Temples of Angkor TO
spinner; it remains to be seen whether Apsara will be empowered to put preservation
before profits.

heads west and then southwest on its return
to Angkor Wat.
One Day
If you have only one day to visit Angkor,
a good itinerary would be Angkor Wat for
Wat on the first day, then a temple like Ta
Keo just won’t cut it. Another option is a
chronological approach, starting with the
earliest Angkorian temples and working
steadily forwards in time to Angkor Thom,

sunrise and then sticking around to explore
the mighty temple while it’s quieter. From
there continue to the tree roots of Ta Prohm
before breaking for lunch. In the afternoon,
explore the temples within the walled city of
Angkor Thom and the beauty of the Bayon
in the late-afternoon light.
Two Days
A two-day itinerary allows time to include
some of the other big hitters around Angkor.
Spend the first day visiting petite Banteay
Srei, with its fabulous carvings; stop at
Banteay Samré on the return leg. In the af-
ternoon, visit immense Preah Khan, delicate
Preah Neak Poan and the tree roots of Ta
Som, before taking in a sunset at Pre Rup.
Spend the second day following the one-day
itinerary to Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm and Ang-
kor Thom.
Three to Five Days
If you have three to five days to explore
Angkor, it’s possible to see most of the
important sites. One approach is to see as
much as possible on the first day or two
and then spend the final days combining
visits to other sites such as the Roluos
temples and Banteay Kdei. Better still is a
gradual build-up to the most spectacular
monuments. After all, if you see Angkor
 URS
Tours
taking stock of the evolution of Khmer ar-
chitecture and artistry.
It is well worth making the trip to the Riv-
er of a Thousand Lingas at Kbal Spean for
the chance to stretch your legs amid natural
and human-made splendour, or the remote,
vast and overgrown temple of Beng Mealea.
Both can be combined with Banteay Srei in
one long day.
One Week
Those with the time to spend a week at Ang-
kor will be richly rewarded. Not only is it
possible to fit all the temples of the region
into an itinerary, but a longer stay also al-
lows for non-temple activities, such as relax-
ing by a pool, indulging in a spa treatment
or shopping around Siem Reap. Check out
the aforementioned itineraries for some
ideas on approach, but relax in the knowl-
edge that you’ll see it all. You may also want
to throw in some of the more remote sites
such as Koh Ker, Prasat Preah Vihear or
Banteay Chhmar.
T Tours
Most budget and midrange travellers not on
package tours prefer to take in the temples
at their own pace. Plan a dawn-to-dusk itin-
erary with a long, leisurely lunch to avoid
the heat of the midday sun. Alternatively,
1 28
plan to explore the temples through lunch,
when it can be considerably quieter than
the peak morning and afternoon visit times.
However, it will be hot as hell and the light
is not that conducive to photography. The
Angkor Wat International Half Marathon
takes place annually in December, includ-
ing the option of bicycle rides for those not
into running.
Visitors who have only a day or two at this
incredible site may prefer something organ-
ised locally.
It is possible to link up with an offi-
cial tour guide in Siem Reap. The Khmer
Angkor Tour Guides Association (% 063-
964347; www.khmerangkortourguide.com) repre-
sents some of Angkor’s authorised guides.
English- or French-speaking guides can be
Temples of Angkor O
booked from US$20 to US$40 a day; guides
speaking other languages, such as Italian,
German, Spanish, Japanese and Chinese,
are available at a higher rate, as there are
fewer of them.
For an organised tour around Angkor,
check out these recommended Siem Reap–
based companies:
Beyond Angkor ticket checkpoint is due to move in the
 R
TOUR
rientation
(www.beyonduniqueescapes.com) Beng Mealea,
I E N TAT I O N
Kompong Pluk, cycling trips and cooking
classes.
Buffalo Trails TOUR
(% 012297506; www.buffalotrails-cambodia.com)
Ecotours and lifestyle adventures around
Siem Reap.
Indochine Exploration TOUR
(www.indochineex.com) Me Chrey kayaking,
professional birdwatching and remote tem-
ples tours.
Sam Veasna Center TOUR
(% 063-963710; www.samveasna.org) Day trips
that combine birdwatching with visits to
outlying temples.
Terre Cambodge TOUR
(% 077448255; www.terrecambodge.com) Re-
mote sites around Angkor, some by bicycle,
plus boat trips on the Tonlé Sap lake.
TEMPLE-PASS WARNING!
Visitors found inside any of the main
temples without a ticket will be fined a
whopping US$100.
88 Orientation
Heading north from Siem Reap, Angkor Wat is
the first major temple, followed by the walled
city of Angkor Thom. To the east and west of this
city are two vast former reservoirs (the eastern
reservoir now completely dried up), which once
helped to feed the huge population. Further east
are temples including Ta Prohm, Banteay Kdei
and Pre Rup. North of Angkor Thom is Preah
Khan and, way beyond in the northeast, Banteay
Srei, Kbal Spean, Phnom Kulen and Beng
Mealea. To the southeast of Siem Reap is the
early Angkorian Roluos Group of Temples.
88 Information
ADMISSION FEES
While the cost of entry to Angkor is relatively
expensive by Cambodian standards, the fees
represent excellent value. Visitors have a
choice of a one-day pass (US$20), a three-day
pass (US$40) or a one-week pass (US$60).
An improved system was introduced in 2009
that allows three-day passes to run over three
non-consecutive days in a one-week period
and one-week passes to last for a full month.
Purchase the entry pass from the large official
entrance booth on the road to Angkor Wat. The
lifetime of this book and will reopen on a parallel
newer road to Angkor. Passes include a digital
photo snapped at the entrance booth, so queues
can be slow at peak times. Visitors entering after
5pm get a free sunset, as the ticket starts from
the following day. The fee includes access to all
the monuments in the Siem Reap area but not
the sacred mountain of Phnom Kulen (US$20)
or the remote complexes of Beng Mealea (US$5)
and Koh Ker (US$10).
Entry tickets to the temples of Angkor are con-
trolled by local hotel chain Sokha Hotels, part of
a local petroleum conglomerate called Sokimex,
which, in return for administrating the site, takes
17% of the revenue. Apsara Authority, the body
responsible for protecting and conserving the
temples, takes 68% for operating costs, and
15% goes to restoration. A South Korean com-
pany is due to take over the concession when the
checkpoint moves to the new location.
Most of the major temples now have uniformed
guards to check the tickets, which has reduced
the opportunity for scams. A pass is not required
for excursions to villages around or beyond Ang-
kor, but you still have to stop at the checkpoint to
explain your movements to the guards.
DRESS CODE
While the temples of Angkor are not a million
miles away from the beaches of Sihanoukville
or the Thai islands, it is important to remember
that the temples of Angkor represent a sacred
 1 29

ANGKORIN’ FOR LUNCH

Many of the tour groups buzzing around Angkor head back to Siem Reap for lunch. This
is as good a reason as any to stick around the temples, taking advantage of the lack of
crowds to explore some popular sites and enjoy a local lunch at one of the many stalls.
Almost all the major temples have some sort of nourishment available beyond the walls.
Anyone travelling with a moto or remork-moto (tuk-tuk) should ask the driver for tips on
cheap eats, as these guys eat around the temples every day. They know the best spots,
at the best price, and should be able to sort you out (assuming you are getting along
well).
The most extensive selection of restaurants is lined up opposite the entrance to
Angkor Wat and includes several restaurants, such as Khmer Angkor Restaurant
(mains US$3-6) and Angkor Reach Restaurant (mains US$3-6). There is also a handy
branch of Blue Pumpkin (Angkor Cafe; dishes US$2-5) turning out sandwiches, salads
and ice creams, as well as the usual divine fruit shakes, all to take away if required. Chez
Sophea (% 012858003; meals US$10-20) offers barbecued meats and fish, accompanied
by a cracking homemade salad, but prices are at the high end.

Temples of Angkor G
There are dozens of local noodle stalls just north of Angkor Thom’s Terrace of the
Leper King, which are a good spot for a quick bite to eat. Other central temples with
food available include Ta Prohm, Preah Khan and Ta Keo. There is also a cluster of excel-
lent Khmer restaurants located along the northern shore of Sra Srang.
Further afield, Banteay Srei has several small restaurants, complete with ornate wood
furnishings cut from Cambodia’s forests. Further north at Kbal Spean, food stalls at
the bottom of the hill can cook up fried rice or a noodle soup, plus there is the inviting
Borey Sovann Restaurant (meals US$3-6), which is a great place to wind down before
or after an ascent. There are also stop-and-dip stalls (dishes US$1-3) near the
entrance to Beng Mealea temple.

 E
etting
Water and soft drinks are available throughout the temple area, and many sellers lurk

TTING TH
outside the temples, ready to pounce with offers of cold drinks. Sometimes they ask at
just the right moment; on other occasions it is the 27th time in an hour that you’ve been
approached and you are ready to scream. Try not to – you’ll scare your fellow travellers

here
and lose face with the locals.

religious site to the Khmer people. Inappropriate Cambodia – need to consider the most suitable ERE & AR
roun
dress is not appreciated, despite the fact that way to travel between the temples. Many of the
OUND

the friendly Cambodians may say nothing. Vest best-known temples are no more than a few
tops for women, singlets for men, hot pants, kilometres from the walled city of Angkor Thom,
d

short skirts – none of these should be worn
when exploring Angkor. Certain temples even
stipulate a dress code and it is not possible to
visit the highest level of Angkor Wat without
upper arms covered and shorts to the knees. It
is only likely that authorities will enforce such
dress standards at other temples in the future,
so remember to dress appropriately.
MAPS
There are several free maps covering Angkor,
including the Siem Reap Angkor 3D Map, avail-
able at certain hotels, guesthouses and restau-
rants in town. River Books of Thailand publishes
a fold-out Angkor Map, which is one of the more
detailed offerings available.
88 Getting There & Around
Visitors heading to the temples of Angkor – in
other words, pretty much everybody coming to
which is just 8km from Siem Reap, and can be
visited using anything from a car or motorcycle
to a sturdy pair of walking boots. For the inde-
pendent traveller, there is a daunting range of
alternatives to consider.
For the ultimate Angkor experience, try a pick-
and-mix approach, with a moto, remork-moto or
car for one day to cover the remote sites, a bicycle
to experience the central temples, and an explo-
ration on foot for a spot of peace and serenity.
Transport will be more expensive to remote
temples such as Banteay Srei or Beng Mealea,
due to extra fuel costs.
BICYCLE
A great way to get around the temples, bicycles
are environmentally friendly and are used by
most locals. There are few hills and the roads
are good, so there’s no need for much cycling
experience. Moving about at a slower speed, you
1 30
soon find that you take in more than from out of
a car window or on the back of a speeding moto.
White Bicycles (www.thewhitebicycles.org;
per day US$2) is supported by some guesthous-
es around town, with proceeds from the hire fee
going towards community projects. Many guest-
houses and hotels in town rent bikes for around
US$1 to US$2 per day.
Some places, like Trek or Giant, offer better
mountain bikes for US$7 to US$10 per day. Try
Grasshopper Adventures (p95), which offers
international mountain bikes and helmets for
US$8 per day.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Cars are a popular choice for getting about the
temples. The obvious advantage is protection
from the elements, be it heavy downpours or
the punishing sun. Shared between several
Temples of Angkor A
travellers, they can also be an economical way
to explore. The downside is that visitors are a
little more isolated from the sights, sounds and
smells as they travel between temples. A car for
the day around the central temples is US$25 to
US$35 and can be arranged with hotels, guest-
houses and agencies in town.
Motorcycle rental in Siem Reap is currently
prohibited, but some travellers bring a motor-
cycle from Phnom Penh. If you manage to get a
GN
bike up here, leave it at a guarded parking area
ngkor
etting
G KO R WAT
or with a stallholder outside each temple; other-
wise it could get stolen.
ELEPHANT
Wat
T here & A roun d
Travelling by elephant was the traditional way
to see the temples way back in the early days
of tourism at Angkor, at the start of the 20th
century. It is once again possible to take an
elephant ride between the south gate of Angkor
Thom and the Bayon (US$10) in the morning,
or up to the summit of Phnom Bakheng for
sunset (US$15). The elephants are owned by
the Angkor Village (Map p116; www.angkor
village.com) resort group. Some visitors have
complained about the elephants being poorly
treated by handlers.
HELICOPTER & HOT-AIR BALLOON
For those with plenty of spending money, there
are tourist flights around Angkor Wat (US$90)
and the temples outside Angkor Thom (US$150)
with Helicopters Cambodia (% 012814500;
www.helicopterscambodia.com; 658 Hup Quan
St, Siem Reap). The company also offers char-
ters to remote temples such as Prasat Preah Vi-
hear and Preah Khan. Newer company Helistar
(Map p90; % 063-966072; www.helistar
cambodia.com; 24 Sivatha St, Siem Reap) is
another option for scenic flights and charters.
Angkor Balloon (% 012759698; per person
US$15) offers a bird’s-eye view of Angkor Wat.
The balloon carries up to 30 people, is on a fixed
line and rises 200m above the landscape.
MINIBUS
Minibuses are available from various hotels and
travel agents around town. A 12-seat minibus
costs from US$50 per day, while a 25- or 30-
seat coaster bus is around US$80 to US$100
per day.
MOTO
Many independent travellers end up visiting the
temples by moto. Moto drivers accost visitors
from the moment they set foot in Siem Reap,
but they often end up being knowledgeable and
friendly, and good companions for a tour around
the temples, starting at around US$10 per day.
They can drop you off and pick you up at allotted
times and places and even tell you a bit of back-
ground about the temples as you zip around.
Many of the better drivers go on to become
official tour guides.
REMORK-MOTO
Remorks are motorcycles with twee little hooded
carriages towed behind, and are also known as
tuk tuks. They are a popular way to get around
Angkor as fellow travellers can still talk to each
other as they explore (unlike on the back of a
moto). They also offer some protection from the
rain. As with moto drivers, some remork driv-
ers are very good companions for a tour of the
temples. Prices run from US$15 to US$25 for the
day, depending on the destination and number
of passengers.
WALKING
Why not forget all these newfangled methods
and simply explore on foot? There are obvious
limitations to what can be seen, as some tem-
ples are just too far from Siem Reap. However,
it is easy enough to walk to Angkor Wat and the
temples of Angkor Thom, and this is a great way
to meet up with villagers in the area. Those who
want to get away from the roads should try the
peaceful walk along the walls of Angkor Thom. It
is about 13km in total, and offers access to sev-
eral small, remote temples and some bird life.
Another rewarding walk is from Ta Nei to Ta Keo
through the forest.
ANGKOR WAT
The traveller’s first glimpse of Angkor Wat
(អង្គរ​វត្ត; admission to all of Angkor: 1 day/3 days/1
week US$20/40/60), the ultimate expression
of Khmer genius, is simply staggering and is
matched by only a few select spots on earth
such as Machu Picchu and Petra.
Angkor Wat is, quite literally, heaven on
earth. Angkor is the earthly representation
 1 31

DODGING THE CROWDS

Let’s be honest: we know some of you are a little cynical when it comes to following
our advice on avoiding other tourists. Sure, a lot of other travellers are carrying Lonely
Planet’s Cambodia, but bear in mind that they are a fraction of the overall numbers.
Vietnamese, South Korean and Chinese travellers together accounted for around 1.5
million visitors in 2012, or close to half the total number. Very few, if any, are carrying the
Lonely Planet guide, but are visiting the temples in groups of 25 to 75 people at a time.
So we suggest you pay close attention to the following advice.
Angkor is on the tourist trail and is getting busier by the year but, with a little plan-
ning, it is still possible to escape the hordes. One important thing to remember, particu-
larly when it comes to sunrise and sunset, is that places are popular for a reason, and it
is worth going with the flow at least once.
It is received wisdom that as Angkor Wat faces west, one should be there for late
afternoon, and in the case of the Bayon, which faces east, in the morning. Ta Prohm,
most people seem to agree, can be visited in the middle of the day because of its
umbrella of foliage. This is all well and good, but if you reverse the order, the temples will

Temples of Angkor A
still look good – and you can avoid some of the crowds.
The most popular place for sunrise is Angkor Wat. Most tour groups head back to
town for breakfast, so stick around and explore the temple while it’s cool and quiet be-
tween 7am and 9am. Bayon sees far fewer visitors than Angkor Wat in the early hours.
Sra Srang is usually pretty quiet, and sunrise here can be spectacular thanks to reflec-
tions in the extensive waters. Phnom Bakheng could be an attractive option, because
the sun comes up behind Angkor Wat and you are far from the madding crowd that
gathers here at sunset, but there are now strict limitations on visitor numbers each day.
Ta Prohm is an alternative option, with no sight of sunrise, but a mysterious and magical
atmosphere.

GNngkor
etting
The definitive sunset spot is the hilltop temple of Phnom Bakheng. This was getting

G KO R WAT
well out of control, with as many as 1000 tourists clambering around the small struc-
ture. However, new restrictions limit visitors to no more than 300 at any one time. It is
generally better to check it out for sunrise or early morning and miss the crowds. Stay-

Wat
T here & A roun d
ing within the confines of Angkor Wat for sunset is a rewarding option, as it can be pretty
peaceful when most tourists head off to Phnom Bakheng around 4.30pm or so. Pre Rup
is popular with some for an authentic rural sunset over the countryside, but this is start-
ing to get very busy. Better is the hilltop temple of Phnom Krom, which offers command-
ing views across Tonlé Sap lake, but involves a long drive back to town in the dark. The
Western Baray takes in the sunset from the eastern end, across its vast waters, or from
Western Mebon island, and is generally a quiet option.
When it comes to the most popular temples, the middle of the day is generally the
quietest time. This is because the majority of the large tour groups head back to Siem
Reap for lunch. It is also the hottest part of the day, which makes it tough going around
relatively open temples such as Banteay Srei and the Bayon, but fine at well-covered
temples such as Ta Prohm, Preah Khan and Beng Mealea, or even the bas-reliefs at
Angkor Wat. The busiest times at Angkor Wat are from 6am to 7am and 3pm to 5pm; at
the Bayon, from 8am to 10am; and at Banteay Srei, mid-morning and mid-afternoon.
However, at other popular temples, such as Ta Prohm and Preah Khan, the crowds are
harder to predict, and at most other temples in the Angkor region it’s just a case of pot
luck. If you pull up outside and see a car park full of tour buses, you may want to move
on to somewhere quieter. The wonderful thing about Angkor is that there is always
another temple to explore.

of Mt Meru, the Mt Olympus of the Hindu
faith and the abode of ancient gods. The
‘temple that is a city’, Angkor Wat is the per-
fect fusion of creative ambition and spiritual
devotion. The Cambodian god-kings of old
each strove to better their ancestors’ struc-
tures in size, scale and symmetry, culmi-
nating in what is believed to be the world’s
largest religious building, the mother of all
temples, Angkor Wat.
Temples of

MICK ELMORE / GETTY IMAGES ©

Angkor
THREE-DAY EXPLORATION
The temple complex at Angkor is simply
enormous and the superlatives don’t do
it justice. This is the site of the world’s
largest religious building, a multitude
Bayon
of temples and a vast, long-abandoned The surreal state temple of legendary king Jayavarman VII,
walled city that was arguably Southeast where 216 faces bear down on pilgrims, asserting religious
Asia’s first metropolis, long before and regal authority.
Bangkok and Singapore got in on the Terrace of the
action. Leper King

Starting at the Roluos group of temples, Preah

Palilay
one of the earliest capitals of Angkor,
move on to the big circuit, which includes
the Buddhist-Hindu fusion temple of Phimeanakas
Temple Tep Pranam
1 Preah Khan and the ornate water West Gate
temple of 2 Preah Neak Poan. Angkor Thom Terrace
Baphuon of the
On the second day downsize to the small Temple Elephants
circuit, starting with an atmospheric dawn
visit to 3 Ta Prohm, before continuing 7
to the temple pyramid of Ta Keo, the
Buddhist monastery of Banteay Kdei and
South Gate
the immense royal bathing pond of Angkor Thom
4 Sra Srang.
Next venture further afield to Banteay
Srei temple, the jewel in the crown of
Angkorian art, and Beng Mealea, a remote
jungle temple. Phnom Baksei
Bakheng Chamrong
Saving the biggest and best until last,
experience sunrise at 5 Angkor Wat and
stick around for breakfast in the temple to
discover its amazing architecture without
5
the crowds. In the afternoon, explore
6 Angkor Thom, an immense complex
that is home to the enigmatic 7 Bayon.
Three days around Angkor? That’s just for
starters.
Angkor Wat
The world’s largest religious building. Experience sunrise
at the holiest of holies, then explore the beautiful bas-
reliefs – devotion etched in stone.

TOP TIPS
» Dodging the Crowds Early morning
at Ta Prohm, post sunrise at Angkor
JOHN BANAGAN / GETTY IMAGES ©

Wat and lunchtime at Banteay Srei

does the trick.
» Extended Explorations Three-day
passes can now be used on non-
consecutive days over the period of
a week but be sure to request this.
CHRISTOPHER GROENHOUT / GETTY IMAGES ©

ANDERS BLOMQVIST / GETTY IMAGES ©

ANDERS BLOMQVIST / GETTY IMAGES ©

Angkor Thom
The last great capital of the Khmer empire
Preah Khan Preah Neak
conceals a wealth of temples and its epic A fusion temple dedicated to Buddha, Brahma, Poan
proportions would have inspired and terried Shiva and Vishnu; the immense corridors are If Vegas ever adopts
in equal measure. like an unending hall of mirrors. the Angkor theme,
this will be the swim-
ming pool; a petite
tower set in a lake,
surrounded by four
North Gate, 1 smaller ponds.
Angkor Thom

Preah 2
Pithu
Thommanon
Temple
6
Prasat
Suor Prat
Victory
Gate Angkor
East Gate Thom Ta Nei
Angkor Thom Temple
Chau Say Ta Keo
Tevoda Temple

Banteay Srei

3
Banteay Kdei
Temple

Roluos, 4
Beng Mealea
Bat Chum
Prasat Temple
Kravan
Ta Prohm
Nicknamed the Tomb Raider temple; Indiana Jones Sra Srang
would be equally apt. Nature has run riot, leaving Once the royal bathing pond, this is the ablutions pool to
iconic tree roots strangling the surviving stones. beat all ablutions pools and makes a good stop for sunset.
ARIADNE VAN ZANDBERGEN / GETTY IMAGES ©
ANDERS BLOMQVIST / GETTY IMAGES ©
134
Angkor Wat
Outer Wall
Wat
West Elephant Gate
Portico
Sandstone
Pool
Causeway Library
Main Library
Entrance Statue of Pool
Vishnu
Elephant Gate
Temples of Angkor A
GN
The temple is the heart and soul of Cam-
ngkor
etting
G KO R WAT
bodia. It is the national symbol, the epicen-
tre of Khmer civilisation and a source of
fierce national pride. Soaring skyward and
Wat
T here & A roun d
surrounded by a moat that would make its
European castle counterparts blush, Ang-
kor Wat is one of the most inspired and
spectacular monuments ever conceived by
the human mind. Unlike the other Angkor
monuments, it was never abandoned to the
elements and has been in virtually continu-
ous use since it was built.
Simply unique, it is a stunning blend of
spirituality and symmetry, an enduring ex-
ample of humanity’s devotion to its gods.
Relish the very first approach, as that spine-
tickling moment when you emerge on the
inner causeway will rarely be felt again. It
is the best-preserved temple at Angkor, and
repeat visits are rewarded with previously
unnoticed details.
There is much about Angkor Wat that is
unique among the temples of Angkor. The
most significant fact is that the temple is
oriented towards the west. Symbolically,
west is the direction of death, which once
led a large number of scholars to conclude
that Angkor Wat must have existed prima-
rily as a tomb. This idea was supported by
the fact that the magnificent bas-reliefs of
Moat
North Gate
GACP
Information
Hut
Esplanade
Earth
Causeway
East Gate
Temple
Retaining Wall
Wat
South Gate
Moat
the temple were designed to be viewed in an
anticlockwise direction, a practice that has
precedents in ancient Hindu funerary rites.
Vishnu, however, is also frequently associ-
ated with the west, and it is now commonly
accepted that Angkor Wat most likely served
both as a temple and as a mausoleum for
Suryavarman II.
Angkor Wat is famous for its beguiling
apsaras (heavenly nymphs). More than
3000 apsaras are carved into the walls
of Angkor Wat, each of them unique, and
there are 37 different hairstyles for bud-
ding stylists to check out. Many of these
exquisite apsaras were damaged during
Indian efforts to clean the temples with
chemicals during the 1980s, the ultimate
bad acid trip, but they are now being re-
stored by the teams with the German Ap-
sara Conservation Project (GACP; www.
gacp-angkor.de). The organisation operates a
small information booth in the northwest
corner of Angkor Wat, near the modern
wat, where beautiful black-and-white post-
cards and images of Angkor are available
for sale.
Allow at least two hours for a visit to Ang-
kor Wat and plan a half day if you want to
decipher the bas-reliefs with a tour guide
and ascend to Bakan, the upper level.

Symbolism
Visitors to Angkor Wat are struck by its im-
posing grandeur and, at close quarters, its
fascinating decorative flourishes and exten-
sive bas-reliefs. Holy men at the time of Ang-
kor must have revelled in its multilayered
levels of meaning in much the same way a
contemporary literary scholar might delight
in James Joyce’s Ulysses.
Eleanor Mannikka explains in her book
Angkor Wat: Time, Space and Kingship that
the spatial dimensions of Angkor Wat paral-
lel the lengths of the four ages (Yuga) of clas-
sical Hindu thought. Thus the visitor who
walks the causeway to the main entrance
and through the courtyards to the final main
tower, which once contained a statue of Vish-
nu, is metaphorically travelling back to the
first age of the creation of the universe.
Like the other temple-mountains of Ang-
kor, Angkor Wat also replicates the spatial
universe in miniature. The central tower
is Mt Meru, with its surrounding smaller
peaks, bounded in turn by continents (the
lower courtyards) and the oceans (the
moat). The seven-headed naga becomes a
symbolic rainbow bridge for man to reach
the abode of the gods.
While Suryavarman II may have planned
Angkor Wat as his funerary temple or mau-
soleum, he was never buried there as he died
in battle during a failed expedition to sub-
due the Dai Viet (Vietnamese).
Architectural Layout
Angkor Wat is surrounded by a 190m-wide
moat, which forms a giant rectangle meas-
uring 1.5km by 1.3km. From the west, a
sandstone causeway crosses the moat. The
sandstone blocks from which Angkor Wat
was built were quarried more than 50km
away (from the holy mountain of Phnom
Kulen) and floated down the Siem Reap
River on rafts. The logistics of such an op-
eration are mind-blowing, consuming the
labour of thousands – an unbelievable feat
given the lack of cranes and trucks that we
take for granted in contemporary construc-
tion projects. According to inscriptions,
the construction of Angkor Wat involved
300,000 workers and 6000 elephants, yet it
was still not fully completed.
The rectangular outer wall, which meas-
ures 1025m by 800m, has a gate on each side,
but the main entrance, a 235m-wide porch
richly decorated with carvings and sculp-
tures, is on the western side. There is a statue
135
of Vishnu, 3.25m in height and hewn from
a single block of sandstone, located in the
right-hand tower. Vishnu’s eight arms hold a
mace, a spear, a disc, a conch and other items.
You may also see locks of hair lying about.
These are offerings both from young people
preparing to get married and from pilgrims
giving thanks for their good fortune.
An avenue, 475m long and 9.5m wide and
lined with naga balustrades, leads from the
main entrance to the central temple, pass-
ing between two graceful libraries (restored
by a Japanese team) and then two pools, the
northern one a popular spot from which to
watch the sun rise.
The central temple complex consists of
three storeys, each made of laterite, which
enclose a square surrounded by intricately
Temples of Angkor A
interlinked galleries. The Gallery of a Thou-
sand Buddhas (Preah Poan) was used to
house hundreds of Buddha images before
the war, but many of these were removed or
stolen, leaving just the handful we see today.
The corners of the second and third sto-
reys are marked by towers, each topped
with symbolic lotus-bud towers. Rising 31m
above the third level and 55m above the
GN
ground is the central tower, which gives the
ngkor
etting
G KO R WAT
whole grand ensemble its sublime unity.
Wat
T here & A roun d
ON LOCATION WITH ¨
TOMB RAIDER
Several sequences for Tomb Raider,
starring Angelina Jolie as Lara Croft,
were shot around the temples of Ang-
kor. The Cambodia shoot opened at
Phnom Bakheng, with Lara looking
through binoculars for the mysterious
temple. The baddies were already try-
ing to break in through the east gate of
Angkor Thom by pulling down a giant
polystyrene apsara. Reunited with her
custom Land Rover, Lara made a few
laps around Bayon before discovering
a back way into the temple from Ta
Prohm. After battling a living statue
and dodging Daniel Craig (aka 007)
by diving off the waterfall at Phnom
Kulen, she emerged in a floating market
in front of Angkor Wat, as you do. She
came ashore here before borrowing a
mobile phone from a local monk and
venturing into the Gallery of a Thou-
sand Buddhas, where she was healed
by the abbot.
1 36

Angkor Wat – Central Structure

Battle of the Krishna &

Gods & the the Demon
1st Level Demons King

Library 2nd Level Vishnu

Pool Battle of Lanka conquers
Esplanade the Demons
3rd Level
To Main
Library
Entrance
Cruciform The
D Terrace
Elephant
Library Gate
Gallery of a
thousand Buddhas Churning of
Pool The Battle of the Ocean
Kurukshetra Library of Milk
Temples of Angkor A

The Army of Heaven

Suryavarman II & Hell Esplanade
Outer Wall
S ights

The stairs to the upper level are im- original beam in the western half of the
ngkor
N G KO R WAT

mensely steep, because reaching the king- north gallery. The other roofed sections are
dom of the gods was no easy task. Also reconstructions.
known as Bakan, the upper level of Ang-
Wat

kor Wat was closed to visitors for several The Battle of Kurukshetra BAS-RELIEF

years, but it is once again open to a limited
number per day with a timed queuing sys-
tem. This means it is once again possible to
complete the pilgrimage with an ascent to
the summit: savour the cooling breeze, take
in the extensive views and then find your-
self a quiet corner in which to contemplate
the symmetry and symbolism of this Ever-
est of temples.
1 Sights
Stretching around the outside of the central
temple complex is an 800m-long series of
intricate and astonishing bas-reliefs. The
following is a brief description of the epic
events depicted on the panels. They are de-
scribed in the order in which you’ll come to
them if you begin on the western side and
keep the bas-reliefs to your left. The majority
of them were completed in the 12th century,
but in the 16th century several new reliefs
were added to unfinished panels.
The bas-reliefs at Angkor Wat were once
sheltered by the cloister’s wooden roof,
which long ago rotted away except for one
The southern portion of the west gallery de-
picts a battle scene from the Hindu Mahab-
harata epic, in which the Kauravas (coming
from the north) and the Pandavas (coming
from the south) advance upon each other,
meeting in furious battle. Infantry are shown
on the lowest tier, with officers on elephants,
and chiefs on the second and third tiers.
Some of the more interesting details (from
left to right): a dead chief lying on a pile of
arrows, surrounded by his grieving parents
and troops; a warrior on an elephant who,
by putting down his weapon, has accepted
defeat; and a mortally wounded officer, fall-
ing from his carriage into the arms of his
soldiers. Over the centuries, some sections
have been polished (by the millions of hands
that fall upon them) to look like black mar-
ble. The portico at the southwestern corner
is decorated with sculptures representing
characters from the Ramayana.
The Army of Suryavarman II BAS-RELIEF
The remarkable western section of the south
gallery depicts a triumphal battle march of
Suryavarman II’s army. In the southwestern

corner about 2m from the floor is Suryavar-
man II on an elephant, wearing the royal tiara
and armed with a battleaxe; he is shaded by
15 parasols and fanned by legions of servants.
Compare this image of the king and with the
image of Rama in the northern gallery and
you’ll notice an uncanny likeness that helped
reinforce the aura of the god-king.
Further on is a procession of well-armed
soldiers and officers on horseback; among
them are bold and warlike chiefs on el-
ephants. Just before the end of this panel
is the rather disorderly Siamese mercenary
army, with their long headdresses and rag-
ged marching, at that time allied with the
Khmers in their conflict with the Chams.
The Khmer troops have square breastplates
and are armed with spears; the Thais wear
1 37
Heaven & Hell BAS-RELIEF
The eastern half of the south gallery depicts
the punishments and rewards of the 37
heavens and 32 hells. On the left, the upper
and middle tiers show fine gentlemen and
ladies proceeding towards 18-armed Yama
(the judge of the dead) seated on a bull;
below him are his assistants, Dharma and
Sitragupta. On the lower tier, devils drag
the wicked along the road to hell. To Yama’s
right, the tableau is divided into two parts
by a horizontal line of garudas: above, the
elect dwell in beautiful mansions, served
by women and attendants; below, the con-
demned suffer horrible tortures that might
have inspired the Khmer Rouge. The ceiling
in this section was restored by the French
in the 1930s.

skirts and carry tridents.
The rectangular holes seen in the Army of
Suryavarman II relief were created when, so
the story goes, Thai soldiers removed pieces
of the scene containing inscriptions that
reportedly gave clues to the location of the
golden treasures of Suryavarman II, later
buried during the reign of Jayavarman VII.
Temples of Angkor A
Churning of the Ocean of Milk BAS-RELIEF
The southern section of the east gallery is
decorated by the most famous of the bas-
relief scenes at Angkor Wat, the Churning of
the Ocean of Milk. This brilliantly executed
carving depicts 88 asuras on the left, and
92 devas, with crested helmets, churning
up the sea to extract from it the elixir of

S ights
ngkor
N G KO R WAT
GUIDE TO THE GUIDES
Countless books on Angkor have been written over the years, with more and more new

Wat
titles coming out, reflecting Angkor’s rebirth as one of the world’s cultural hot spots.
Here are just a few of the best:
A Guide to the Angkor Monuments (Maurice Glaize) The definitive guide, download-
able for free at www.theangkorguide.com.
A Passage Through Angkor (Mark Standen) One of the best photographic records of
the temples.
A Pilgrimage to Angkor (Pierre Loti) One of the most beautifully written books on Ang-
kor, based on the author’s 1910 journey.
Ancient Angkor (Claude Jacques) Written by one of the foremost scholars on Angkor,
this is the most readable guide to the temples, with photos by Michael Freeman.
Angkor: An Introduction to the Temples (Dawn Rooney) Probably the most popular
contemporary guide.
Angkor – Heart of an Asian Empire (Bruno Dagens) The story of the ‘discovery’ of
Angkor, complete with lavish illustrations.
Angkor: Millennium of Glory (various authors) A fascinating introduction to the his-
tory, culture, sculpture and religion of the Angkorian period.
Angkor: Splendours of the Khmer Civilisation (Marilia Albanese) Beautifully pho-
tographed guide to the major temples, including some of the more remote places in
northern Cambodia.
Khmer Heritage in the Old Siamese Provinces of Cambodia (Etienne Aymonier)
Aymonier journeyed through Cambodia in 1901 and visited many of the major temples.
The Customs of Cambodia (Chou Ta-Kuan) The only eyewitness account of Angkor, by
a Chinese emissary who spent a year at the Khmer capital in the late 13th century.
138
Central Area of Angkor Thom
North Gate of

D
Northern Ave
Angkor Thom (500m);
Preah Preah Khan (2.5km)
Pool
Palilay Pool
Preah Pithu
Tep Pranam Pool Pool
Terrace of
the Leper King
Moat North
Gate Pool Gate Prasat
Kleang
Pool
Royal Suor Prat Pool Victory Gate (1km);
Ta Prohm (3.5km)
Enclosure
Central
Ave of Victory
D
Square
Phimeanakas Terrace Pool
of Elephants South
Gate Gate Kleang
Moat
Pools
Baphuon
Temples of Angkor A

Pool
Main
Entrance
Pool Pool

Food
Stalls

Pool

Bayon Pool
S ights

Main
D
ngkor
N

Entrance
G KO R WAT

D
West Gate of Pool East Gate of
Angkor Thom (1km) Angkor Thom (1km)
Wat

South Gate of Angkor Thom

D

(1.2km); Angkor Wat (3.3km)

immortality. The demons hold the head
of the serpent Vasuki and the gods hold
its tail. At the centre of the sea, Vasuki is
coiled around Mt Mandala, which turns and
churns up the water in the tug of war be-
gallery. North of the gate is a Khmer inscrip-
tion recording the erection of a nearby stupa
in the 18th century.
Vishnu Conquers the Demons BAS-RELIEF

tween the demons and the gods. Vishnu, in-
carnated as a huge turtle, lends his shell to
serve as the base and pivot of Mt Mandala.
Brahma, Shiva, Hanuman (the monkey god)
and Lakshmi (the goddess of beauty) all
make appearances, while overhead a host
of heavenly female spirits sing and dance
in encouragement. Luckily for us, the gods
won through, as the apsaras above were
too much for the hot-blooded devils to take.
Restoration work on this incredible panel
by the World Monuments Fund (WMF; www.
wmf.org) was completed in 2012.
The Elephant Gate BAS-RELIEF
This gate, which has no stairway, was used
by the king and others for mounting and
dismounting elephants directly from the
The northern section of the east gallery
shows a furious and desperate encounter
between Vishnu, riding on a garuda, and
innumerable devils. Needless to say, he slays
all comers. This gallery was completed at a
later date, most likely in the 16th century,
and the later carving is notably inferior to
the original work from the 12th century.
Krishna & the Demon King BAS-RELIEF
The eastern section of the north gallery
shows Vishnu incarnated as Krishna riding
a garuda. He confronts a burning walled
city, the residence of Bana, the demon king.
The garuda puts out the fire and Bana is
captured. In the final scene Krishna kneels
before Shiva and asks that Bana’s life be
spared.

Battle of the Gods ¨
& the Demons BAS-RELIEF
The western section of the north gallery de-
picts the battle between the 21 gods of the
Brahmanic pantheon and various demons.
The gods are featured with their traditional
attributes and mounts. Vishnu has four
arms and is seated on a garuda, while Shiva
rides a sacred goose.
Battle of Lanka BAS-RELIEF
The northern half of the west gallery shows
scenes from the Ramayana. In the Battle
of Lanka, Rama (on the shoulders of Hanu-
man), along with his army of monkeys, bat-
tles 10-headed, 20-armed Ravana, captor of
Rama’s beautiful wife Sita. Ravana rides a
chariot drawn by monsters and commands
an army of giants.
ANGKOR THOM
It is hard to imagine any building bigger
or more beautiful than Angkor Wat, but in
Angkor Thom the sum of the parts add up
to a greater whole. Aptly named, the forti-
fied city of Angkor Thom (អង្គរធំ​) is indeed
a ‘Great City’ on an epic scale. The last great
capital of the Khmer empire, and set over
10 sq km, Angkor Thom took monumental
to a whole new level. It was built in part as
a reaction to the surprise sacking of Ang-
kor by the Chams, after Jayavarman VII (r
1181–1219) decided that his empire would
never again be vulnerable at home. Beyond
the formidable walls is a massive moat that
would have stopped all but the hardiest in-
vaders in their tracks. At the city’s height,
it may have supported a population of one
million people in the surrounding region.
Centred on Bayon, the mesmerising, if
mind-bending, state temple, Angkor Thom
is enclosed by a jayagiri (square wall) 8m
high and 12km in length and encircled by a
100m-wide jayasindhu (moat). This archi-
tectural layout is yet another expression of
Mt Meru surrounded by the oceans.
It is the gates that grab you first, flanked
by a vast representation of the Churning of
the Ocean of Milk, 54 demons and 54 gods
engaged in an epic tug of war on the cause-
way. Each gate towers above the visitor,
the magnanimous faces of the Bodhisattva
Avalokiteshvara staring out over the king-
dom. Imagine being a peasant in the 13th
century approaching the forbidding capital
for the first time. It would have been an
1 39
awe-inspiring yet unsettling experience to
enter such a gateway and come face to face
with the divine power of the god-kings.
The south gate is most popular with visi-
tors, as it has been fully restored and many
of the heads (mostly copies) remain in place.
The gate is on the main road into Angkor
Thom from Angkor Wat, and it gets very busy.
More peaceful are the east and west gates,
found at the end of dirt trails. The east gate
was used as a location in Tomb Raider, where
the bad guys broke into the ‘tomb’ by pull-
ing down a giant (polystyrene!) apsara. The
causeway at the west gate of Angkor Thom
has completely collapsed, leaving a jumble of
ancient stones sticking out of the soil, like vic-
tims of a terrible historical pile-up.
In the centre of the walled enclosure
Temples of Angkor B
are the city’s most important monuments,
including Bayon, Baphuon, the Royal En-
closure, Phimeanakas and the Terrace of El-
ephants. With all these temples and sites to
cover, visitors should set aside a half day to
explore Angkor Thom in depth.
Bayon បាយ័ន
A ights
S ngkor
ayon T hom
Unique, even among its cherished contem-
poraries, Bayon is the mesmerising state
temple of Cambodia’s legendary king, Jaya-
varman VII. Its architectural audacity epito-
mises the creative genius and inflated ego of
this enigmatic figure. It’s a place of stooped
corridors, precipitous flights of stairs and,
best of all, a collection of 54 towers deco-
rated with 216 coldly smiling, enormous
faces of Avalokiteshvara that bear more
than a passing resemblance to the great king
BAYON INFORMATION
CENTER
The Bayon Information Center
(Map p116; % 092165083; www.angkor-jsa.
org/bic; 56 Phum Tropeang Ses, Khum
Kokchork, Siem Reap; admission US$2;
h 8am-4pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun) is a well-
presented and informative exhibition
on the history of the Khmer empire and
the restoration projects around Angkor,
including some short documentary
films. Set in the beautiful compound
of the Japanese government team for
Safeguarding Angkor (JSA) on the
outskirts of Siem Reap, it’s a big saving
on the Angkor National Museum.
140
himself. These huge heads glare down from
every angle, exuding power and control with
a hint of humanity – this was precisely the
blend required to hold sway over such a vast
empire, ensuring the disparate and far-flung
population yielded to his magnanimous will.
As you walk around, a dozen or more of the
heads are visible at any one time – full face
or in profile, almost level with your eyes or
staring down from up high.
Bayon is now known to have been built by
Jayavarman VII, though for many years its
origins were unknown. Shrouded in dense
jungle, it also took researchers some time to
realise that it stands in the exact centre of
the city of Angkor Thom. There is still much
mystery associated with Bayon – such as its
exact function and symbolism – and this
Temples of Angkor B
glorified pile of rubble from a distance. It’s
only when you enter the temple and make
your way up to the third level that its magic
becomes apparent.
The basic structure of Bayon a simple
three levels, which correspond more or less
to three distinct phases of building. This is
because Jayavarman VII began construction
of this temple at an advanced age, so he was
never confident it would be completed. Each
time one phase was completed, he moved on
to the next. The first two levels are square
and adorned with bas-reliefs. They lead up
to a third, circular level, with the towers and
their faces.
Some say that the Khmer empire was
divided into 54 provinces at the time of
Bayon’s construction, hence the all-seeing

seems only appropriate for a monument
whose signature is an enigmatic smiling face.
The eastward orientation of Bayon leads
most people to visit early in the morning,
preferably just after sunrise, when the sun
inches upwards, lighting face after face.
Bayon, however, looks equally good in the
late afternoon. A Japanese team is restoring
several outer areas of the temple.
A ights
S
eyes of Avalokiteshvara (or Jayavarman VII)
keeping watch on the kingdom’s outlying
subjects.
1 Sights
Angkor Wat’s bas-reliefs may grab the
headlines, but Bayon’s are even more ex-
tensive, decorated with 1.2km of extraordi-
nary carvings depicting more than 11,000

figures. The famous carvings on the outer

ngkor
ayon T hom

Architectural Layout wall of the first level show vivid scenes of

Unlike Angkor Wat, which looks impressive everyday life in 12th-century Cambodia.
from all angles, Bayon looks rather like a The bas-reliefs on the second level do not

Bayon
The Chams
Retreat The Chams
A Retreat
The Circus Land of North
Comes to Plenty Gate
Town
Doorway Doorway
Victory First Level Library
Parade Pool
Doorway Second Level Doorway
The All-
Seeing King
Third East Main
West Level Entrance
Gate Gate

Chams on
Civil War the Run
Doorway Second Level Doorway Pool
First Level Library
Linga
Military Doorway Doorway Worship
Procession Naval
Military The Battle
Procession Chams
South Vanquished
Gate
 141

PROFESSOR ANG CHOULEANM, ARCHEA0LOGY EXPERT

What is the most important Khmer temple? Angkor Thom is the most striking and
challenging for archaeologists, since it was a living city, humans and gods cohabiting
there.
What is the most important archaeological site in Cambodia? Sambor Prei Kuk is
among the most important for its homogeneity, given the period and its artistic style.
Who is the most important king in Cambodian history? Suryavarman I, who had
a real political vision that can be measured by the monuments he built, such as Preah
Vihear and Wat Phu.
What is your position on the debate between romance and restoration at Ta
Prohm? It is a matter of balance. The trees are most impressive, but maintaining the
monument is our duty.
Which other civilisation interests you greatly? Japanese civilisation, as it is so differ-
ent from Khmer civilisation, allowing me to better understand mine.

Temples of Angkor B
Professor Ang Choulean is one of Cambodia’s leading experts on anthropology and
archaeology and a renowned scholar on Cambodian history. He was awarded the 2011
Grand Fukuoka Prize for his outstanding contribution to Asian culture.

have the epic proportions of those on the The Chams Vanquished BAS-RELIEF
first level and tend to be fragmented. The In the next panel, scenes from daily life
reliefs described are those on the first level. continue and the battle shifts to the shore,
The sequence assumes that you enter Bay- where the Chams are soundly thrashed.

A ights
S
on from the east and view the reliefs in a Scenes include two people playing chess,

clockwise direction.
Chams on the Run BAS-RELIEF
Just south of the east gate is a three-level
panorama. On the first tier, Khmer soldiers
march off to battle – check out the elephants
and the oxcarts, which are almost exactly
like those still used in Cambodia today. The
second tier depicts coffins being carried
back from the battlefield. In the centre of
the third tier, Jayavarman VII, shaded by
parasols, is shown on horseback followed by
legions of concubines (to the left).
Linga Worship BAS-RELIEF
The first panel north of the southeastern
corner shows Hindus praying to a linga
(phallic symbol). This image was probably
originally a Buddha, later modified by a
Hindu king.
Naval Battle BAS-RELIEF
The next panel has some of the best-carved
reliefs. The scenes depict a naval battle be-
tween the Khmers and the Chams (the lat-
ter with head coverings), and everyday life
around Tonlé Sap lake, where the battle was
fought. Look for images of people picking
lice from each other’s hair, of hunters and,
towards the western end of the panel, a
woman giving birth.
ngkor
ayon T hom
a cockfight and women selling fish in the
market. The scenes of meals being prepared
and served are in celebration of the Khmer
victory.
Military Procession BAS-RELIEF
The last section of the south gallery, depict-
ing a military procession, is unfinished, as is
the panel showing elephants being led down
from the mountains. Brahmans have been
chased up two trees by tigers.
Civil War BAS-RELIEF
This panel depicts scenes that some schol-
ars maintain is a civil war. Groups of people,
some armed, confront each other, and the
violence escalates until elephants and war-
riors join the melee.
The All-Seeing King BAS-RELIEF
The fighting continues on a smaller scale in
the next panel. An antelope is being swal-
lowed by a gargantuan fish; among the
smaller fish is a prawn, under which an in-
scription proclaims that the king will seek
out those in hiding.
Victory Parade BAS-RELIEF
This panel depicts a procession that includes
the king (carrying a bow). Presumably it is a
celebration of his victory.
142
The Circus Comes to Town BAS-RELIEF
At the western corner of the northern wall
is a Khmer circus. A strongman holds three
dwarfs, and a man on his back is spinning a
wheel with his feet; above is a group of tight-
rope walkers. To the right of the circus, the
royal court watches from a terrace, below
which is a procession of animals. Some of
the reliefs in this section remain unfinished.
A Land of Plenty BAS-RELIEF
The two rivers, one next to the doorpost and
the other a few metres to the right, are teem-
ing with fish.
The Chams Retreat BAS-RELIEF
On the lowest level of this unfinished three-
tiered scene, the Cham armies are being
defeated and expelled from the Khmer king-
Temples of Angkor B
dom. The next panel depicts the Cham ar-
mies advancing, and the badly deteriorated
panel shows the Chams (on the left) chasing
the Khmers.
The Sacking of Angkor BAS-RELIEF
This panel shows the war of 1177, when the
Khmers were defeated by the Chams, and
Angkor was pillaged. The wounded Khmer
A ights
S
king is being lowered from the back of an el-
ngkor
aphuonT hom
ephant and a wounded Khmer general is be-
ing carried on a hammock suspended from a
pole. Directly above, despairing Khmers are
getting drunk. The Chams (on the right) are
in hot pursuit of their vanquished enemy.
The Chams Enter Angkor BAS-RELIEF
This panel depicts another meeting of the
two armies. Notice the flag bearers among the
THE RECLINING ¨
BUDDHA OF BAPHUON
On the western side of Baphuon, the
retaining wall of the second level was
fashioned – apparently in the 15th or
16th century – into a reclining Buddha
about 60m in length. The unfinished
figure is difficult to make out, but the
head is on the northern side of the wall
and the gate is where the hips should
be; to the left of the gate protrudes an
arm. When it comes to the legs and
feet – the latter are entirely gone –
imagination must suffice. This huge
project, undertaken by the Buddhist
faithful 500 years ago, reinforces the
notion that Angkor was never entirely
abandoned.
Cham troops (on the right). The Chams were
defeated in the war, which ended in 1181, as
depicted on the first panel in the sequence.
Baphuon បាពួន
Often coined the world’s largest jigsaw puz-
zle, Baphuon was the centre of EFEO res-
toration efforts when the civil war erupted,
and work paused for a quarter of a century.
The temple was taken apart piece by piece,
in keeping with the anastylosis method
of renovation, but all the records were de-
stroyed during the Khmer Rouge years, leav-
ing experts with 300,000 stones to put back
into place. The EFEO resumed restoration
work in 1995, and continues its efforts today.
Baphuon is approached by a 200m elevated
walkway made of sandstone, and the central
structure is 43m high. Clamber under the
elevated causeway leading to Baphuon for
an incredible view of the hundreds of pillars
supporting it.
In its heyday, Baphuon would have been
one of the most spectacular of Angkor’s tem-
ples. Located 200m northwest of Bayon, it’s
a pyramidal representation of mythical Mt
Meru. Construction probably began under
Suryavarman I and was later completed by
Udayadityavarman II. It marked the centre
of the capital that existed before the con-
struction of Angkor Thom.
Royal Enclosure &
Phimeanakas ភិមាន​អាកាស
Phimeanakas stands close to the centre of
a walled area that once housed the royal
palace. There’s very little left of the palace
today except for two sandstone pools near
the northern wall. Once the site of royal
ablutions, these are now used as swim-
ming holes by local children. The royal en-
closure is fronted to the east by the Terrace
of Elephants. Construction of the palace
began under Rajendravarman II, although
it was used by Jayavarman V and Udaya-
dityavarman I. It was later added to and
embellished by Jayavarman VII and his
successors.
Phimeanakas means ‘Celestial Palace’, and
some scholars say that it was once topped
by a golden spire. Today it only hints at its
former splendour and looks a little worse
for wear. The temple is another pyramidal
representation of Mt Meru, with three levels.
Most of the decorative features are broken
 143

TREKKING AROUND THE TEMPLES

Spread over a vast area of the steamy tropical lowlands of Cambodia, the temples of
Angkor aren’t the ideal candidates to tackle on foot. However, the area is blanketed in
mature forest, offering plenty of shade, and following back roads into temples is the
perfect way to leave behind the crowds.
Angkor Thom is the top trekking spot thanks to its manageable size and plenty of
rewarding temples within its walls. Starting out at the spectacular south gate of Angkor
Thom, admire the immense representation of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk before
bidding farewell to the masses and their motorised transport. Ascend the wall of this
ancient city and then head west, enjoying views of the vast moat to the left and the thick
jungle to the right. It is often possible to see forest birds along this route, as it is very
peaceful. Reaching the southwest corner, admire Prasat Chrung, one of four identical
temples marking the corners of the city. Head down below to see the water outlet of Run
Ta Dev, as this once powerful city was criss-crossed by canals in its heyday.
Back on the gargantuan wall, continue to the west gate, looking out for a view to the
immense Western Baray on your left. Descend at the west gate and admire the artistry

Temples of Angkor P
of the central tower. Wander east along the path into the heart of Angkor Thom, but
don’t be diverted by the beauty of Bayon, as this is best saved until last.
Veer north into Baphuon and wander to the back of what some have called the
‘world’s largest jigsaw puzzle’. Pass through the small temple of Phimeanakas and the
former royal palace compound, an area of towering trees, tumbling walls and atmos-
pheric foliage. Continue further north to petite but pretty Preah Palilay.
It’s time to make for the mainstream with a walk through the Terrace of the Leper
King and along the front of the royal viewing gallery, the Terrace of Elephants. If there is
time, you may want to zigzag east to visit the laterite towers of Prasat Suor Prat. Oth-
erwise, continue to the top billing of Bayon: weird yet wonderful, this is one of the most

A ights
S reah
ngkorPalilay
enigmatic of the temples at Angkor. Take your time to decipher the bas-reliefs before
venturing up to the legendary faces of the upper level.

or have disappeared. Still, it is worth clam-
bering up to the second and third levels for
good views of Baphuon.
The northwestern wall of the Royal En-
closure is very atmospheric, with immense
trees and jungle vines cloaking the outer
side, easily visible on a forest walk from
Preah Palilay to Phimeanakas.
Preah Palilay ព្រះ​​បល
៉ា ីឡៃ
Preah Palilay is located about 200m north
of the Royal Enclosure’s northern wall. It
was erected during the rule of Jayavarman
VII and originally housed a Buddha, which
has long since vanished. Sadly, the immense
trees that used to loom large over the temple
have been cut down, removing some of the
romance of the place in the process.
Tep Pranam ទេព​ប្រណម្យ
Tep Pranam, an 82m by 34m cruciform Bud-
dhist terrace 150m east of Preah Palilay, was
once the base of a pagoda of lightweight
T hom
construction. Nearby is a Buddha that’s
4.5m high, but it’s a reconstruction of the
original. A group of Buddhist nuns lives in
a wooden structure close by.
Preah Pithu ព្រះ​ពិធូ
Preah Pithu, which is across Northern Ave
from Tep Pranam, is a group of 12th-century
Hindu and Buddhist temples enclosed by a
wall. It includes some beautifully decorated
terraces and guardian animals in the form
of elephants and lions.
Terrace of the
Leper King ទីលាន​ព្រះ​គម្លង់
The Terrace of the Leper King is just north
of the Terrace of Elephants. Dating from the
late 12th century, it is a 7m-high platform,
on top of which stands a nude, though sex-
less, statue. It is yet another of Angkor’s mys-
teries. The original of the statue is held at
Phnom Penh’s National Museum, and vari-
ous theories have been advanced to explain
144
its meaning. Legend has it that at least two
of the Angkor kings had leprosy, and the
statue may represent one of them. Another
theory – a more likely explanation – is that
the statue is of Yama, the god of death, and
that the Terrace of the Leper King housed
the royal crematorium.
The front retaining walls of the terrace are
decorated with at least five tiers of meticu-
lously executed carvings of seated apsaras;
other figures include kings wearing pointed
diadems, armed with short double-edged
swords and accompanied by the court and
princesses, the latter adorned with beautiful
rows of pearls.
On the southern side of the Terrace of the
Leper King (facing the Terrace of Elephants),
there is access to the front wall of a hidden
Temples of Angkor T
terrace that was covered up when the outer
structure was built – a terrace within a ter-
race. The four tiers of apsaras and other
figures, including nagas, look as fresh as if
they had been carved yesterday, thanks to
being covered up for centuries. Some of the
figures carry fearsome expressions. As you
follow the inner wall of the Terrace of the
Leper King, notice the increasingly rough
A errace
S
chisel marks on the figures, an indication
ights
roun d Aof
that this wall was never completed, like
many of the temples at Angkor.
ngkor
Terrace of
E lephants
Elephants ទីលាន​ជល់​ដំរ ី Southwest of the south gate of Angkor Thom,
T hom
The 350m-long Terrace of Elephants was
used as a giant viewing stand for public
ceremonies and served as a base for the
king’s grand audience hall. As you stand
here, try to imagine the pomp and gran-
deur of the Khmer empire at its height,
with infantry, cavalry, horse-drawn chari-
ots and elephants parading across Central
Sq in a colourful procession, pennants and
standards aloft. Looking on is the god-king,
crowned with a gold diadem, shaded by
multitiered parasols and attended by man-
darins and handmaidens bearing gold and
silver utensils.
The Terrace of Elephants has five piers
extending towards the Central Sq – three in
the centre and one at each end. The middle
section of the retaining wall is decorated
with life-size garudas and lions; towards
either end are the two parts of the famous
parade of elephants, complete with their
Khmer mahouts.
K leangs & Prasat
Suor Prat ឃ្លាំង ប្រាសាទ​សួ​ព្រ័ត្រ
Along the east side of Central Sq are two
groups of buildings, called Kleangs. The North
Kleang and the South Kleang may at one time
have been palaces. The North Kleang has
been dated from the period of Jayavarman V.
Along Central Sq in front of the two
Kleangs are 12 laterite towers – 10 in a row
and two more at right angles facing the Ave
of Victory – known as the Prasat Suor Prat,
meaning ‘Temple of the Tightrope Dancers’.
Archaeologists believe the towers, which
form an honour guard along Central Sq,
were constructed by Jayavarman VII. It is
likely that each one originally contained
either a linga or a statue. It is said artists
performed for the king on tightropes or rope
bridges strung between these towers.
According to Chinese emissary Chou Ta-
Kuan, the towers of Prasat Suor Prat were
also used for public trials of sorts – during a
dispute the two parties would be made to sit
inside two towers, one party eventually suc-
cumbing to illness and thus proven guilty.
AROUND ANGKOR THOM
Baksei Chamkrong បក្សី​ចា​ក្ ំ រុង
this well-proportioned, petite temple is one of
the few brick edifices in the immediate vicin-
ity of Angkor and was once decorated with
a covering of lime mortar. Like virtually all
of the structures of Angkor, it opens to the
east. In the early 10th century, Harshavarman
I erected five statues in this temple: two of
Shiva, one of Vishnu and two of Devi.
Phnom Bakheng ភ្នំ​បាក់​ខែង
Located around 400m south of Angkor
Thom, the main attraction at Phnom Ba-
kheng is the sunset view over Angkor Wat.
For many years, the whole affair turned
into something of a circus, with crowds of
tourists ascending the slopes of the hill and
jockeying for space once on top. However,
numbers have now been restricted to just
300 visitors at any one time. In practice, this
means arriving pretty early (4pm) for sun-
set to guarantee a spot. Some prefer to visit
in the early morning, when it’s cool (and

Phnom Bakheng
Way Up/
Down
View to Central
Western Baray Sanctuary
D
crowds are light), to climb the hill. That
said, the sunset over the Western Baray is
very impressive from here. Allow about two
hours for the sunset experience.
Phnom Bakheng also lays claim to being
home to the first of the temple-mountains
built in the vicinity of Angkor. Yasovarman I
chose Phnom Bakheng over the Roluos area,
where the earlier capital (and temple moun-
tains) had been located.
The temple-mountain has five tiers, with
seven levels (including the base and the
summit). At the base are – or were – 44 tow-
ers. Each of the five tiers had 12 towers. The
summit of the temple has four towers at
the cardinal points of the compass as well
as a central sanctuary. All of these numbers
are of symbolic significance. The seven lev-
els, for example, represent the seven Hindu
heavens, while the total number of towers,
excluding the central sanctuary, is 108, a
particularly auspicious number and one
that correlates to the lunar calendar.
It is possible to arrange an elephant ride
up the hill (US$15 one way). Try to book in
advance, however, as the rides are very pop-
ular with tour groups.
To get a decent picture of Angkor Wat
in the warm glow of the late-afternoon sun
from the summit of Phnom Bakheng, you
will need at least a 300mm lens, as the tem-
ple is 1.3km away.
Chau Say
Tevoda ចៅ​សាយ​ទេវតា
Just east of Angkor Thom’s east gate is Chau
Say Tevoda. It was probably built during
145
Historical Entry Point
(No Public Access)
Elephant
Dismount
View to Elephant
D
Angkor Wat Path
Temples of Angkor C
the second quarter of the 12th century, under
the reign of Suryavarman II, and dedicated
to Shiva and Vishnu. It has been renovated
by the Chinese to bring it up to the condition
of its twin temple, Thommanon.
T hommanon ធម្ម​នុន
A ights
S
roun
hau SdayA ngkor
Thommanon is just north of Chau Say
Tevoda. Although unique, the temple com-
plements its neighbour, as it was built to a
similar design around the same time. It was
T evo daT hom
also dedicated to Shiva and Vishnu. Thom-
manon is in good condition thanks to exten-
sive work by the EFEO in the 1960s.
Spean Thmor ស្ពាន​ថ្ម
Spean Thmor (Stone Bridge), of which an
arch and several piers remain, is 200m east
of Thommanon. Jayavarman VII construct-
ed many roads with these immense stone
bridges spanning watercourses. This is the
only large bridge remaining in the immedi-
ate vicinity of Angkor. It vividly highlights
how the water level has changed course over
the centuries and may offer another clue to
the collapse of Angkor’s extensive irrigation
system. Just north of Spean Thmor is a large
water wheel.
There are more-spectacular examples
of these ancient bridges elsewhere in Siem
Reap Province, such as Spean Praptos, with
19 arches, in Kompong Kdei on NH6 from
Phnom Penh; and Spean Ta Ong, a 77m
bridge with a beautiful naga, forgotten in
the forest about 28km east of Beng Mealea.
146
Ta Keo តាកែវ anteed way to leave the crowds behind.
Ta Keo is a stark, undecorated temple that
undoubtedly would have been one of the
finest of Angkor’s structures, had it been
finished. Built by Jayavarman V, it was dedi-
cated to Shiva and was the first Angkorian
monument built entirely of sandstone. The
summit of the central tower, which is sur-
rounded by four lower towers, is almost 50m
high. The four towers at the corners of a
square and a fifth tower in the centre is typi-
cal of many Angkorian temple-mountains.
No one is certain why work was never
completed, but a likely cause may have been
the death of Jayavarman V. Others contend
that the hard sandstone was impossible to
Temples of Angkor Ta
carve and that explains the lack of decora-
tion. According to inscriptions, Ta Keo was
struck by lightning during construction,
which may have been a bad omen and led to
its abandonment.
Allow about 30 minutes to visit Ta Keo.
Ta Nei តានី
Ta Nei, 800m north of Ta Keo, was built by
A ights
S roun
Jayavarman VII. There is something of the
K eo d A ngkor T hom
spirit of Ta Prohm here, albeit on a lesser
scale, with moss and tentacle-like roots
covering outer areas of this small temple.
The number of visitors is also on a lesser
scale, making it very atmospheric. It now
houses the training unit of Apsara Author-
ity and can be accessed by walking across
the French-built dam. To get to the dam,
take the long track on the left, just after the
Victory Gate of Angkor Thom when coming
from Siem Reap. It is possible to walk from
CUNNING LINGAS
Fertility symbols are prominent around
the temples of Angkor. The linga is a
phallic symbol and would have origi-
nally been located within the towers
of most Hindu temples. It sits inside
a yoni, the female fertility symbol,
combining to produce holy water,
charged with the sexual energy of crea-
tion. Brahmans poured the water over
the linga and it drained through the
yoni and out of the temples through
elaborate gutters to anoint the pilgrims
outside.
Ta Nei to Ta Keo through the forest, a guar-
Including the access walk, allow about
two hours to visit Ta Nei. Close by is the new
Flight of the Gibbon Angkor (p92) zipline
experience.
Ta Prohm តាព្រហ្ម
oTa Prohm is undoubtedly the most at-
mospheric ruin at Angkor and should be
high on the hit list of every visitor. Its appeal
lies in the fact that, unlike the other monu-
ments of Angkor, it has been swallowed by
the jungle, and looks very much the way
most of the monuments of Angkor appeared
when European explorers first stumbled
upon them. Well, that’s the theory, but in
fact the jungle is pegged back and only the
largest trees are left in place, making it man-
icured rather than raw like Beng Mealea.
Still, a visit to Ta Prohm is a unique, other-
worldly experience. The temple is cloaked in
dappled shadow, its crumbling towers and
walls locked in the slow, muscular embrace
of vast root systems. If Angkor Wat, Bayon
and other temples are testament to the
genius of the ancient Khmers, Ta Prohm re-
minds us equally of the awesome fecundity
and power of the jungle. There is a poetic
cycle to this venerable ruin, with humanity
first conquering nature to rapidly create,
and nature once again conquering human-
ity to slowly destroy.
Built from 1186 and originally known
as Rajavihara (Monastery of the King), Ta
Prohm was a Buddhist temple dedicated
to the mother of Jayavarman VII. It is one
of the few temples in the Angkor region
where an inscription provides informa-
tion about the temple’s dependents and
inhabitants. Almost 80,000 people were
required to maintain or attend at the tem-
ple, among them more than 2700 officials
and 615 dancers.
Ta Prohm is a temple of towers, closed
courtyards and narrow corridors. Many of
the corridors are impassable, clogged with
jumbled piles of delicately carved stone
blocks dislodged by the roots of long-de-
cayed trees. Bas-reliefs on bulging walls are
carpeted with lichen, moss and creeping
plants, and shrubs sprout from the roofs of
monumental porches. Trees, hundreds of
years old, tower overhead, their leaves filter-
ing the sunlight and casting a greenish pall
over the whole scene.

Ta Prohm
TA PHROM
Central Hall of
Sanctuary Dancers
Tomb Raider
Tree
Path
Entry
Tower Giant Tree
Root
The most popular of the many strangu-
lating root formations is that on the inside
of the easternmost gopura (entrance pa-
vilion) of the central enclosure, nicknamed
the Crocodile Tree. One of the most famous
spots in Ta Prohm is the so-called ‘Tomb
Raider tree’, where Angelina Jolie’s Lara
Croft picked a jasmine flower before falling
through the earth into…Pinewood Studios.
It used to be possible to climb onto the
damaged galleries, but this is now prohibit-
ed, to protect both temple and visitor. Many
of these precariously balanced stones weigh
a tonne or more and would do some serious
damage if they came down.
Ta Prohm is at its most impressive at
dawn before the crowds arrive. Allow as
much as two hours to visit, especially if you
want to explore the maze-like corridors and
iconic tree roots.
Banteay Kdei &
Sra Srang បន្ទាយ​ក្ដី​និង​ស្រះ​ស្រង់
Banteay Kdei, a massive Buddhist monas-
tery from the latter part of the 12th century,
is surrounded by four concentric walls. The
outer wall measures 500m by 700m. Each of
its four entrances is decorated with garu-
das, which hold aloft one of Jayavarman
1 47
Pool
Crocodile
Tree
Path
Eastern
Entry Tower
Temples of Angkor B
Pool
A ights
S
VII’s favourite themes: the four faces of Aval-
roun
anteay
okiteshvara. The inside of the central tower
was never finished and much of the temple
d AKngkor
is in a ruinous state due to hasty construc-
tion. It is considerably less busy than nearby
d ei & STra
Ta Prohm and this alone can justify a visit.
East of Banteay Kdei is an earlier basin,
Sra Srang (Pool of Ablutions), measuring 800m
hom
by 400m, reserved for the king and his con-
S rang
sorts. A tiny island in the middle once bore a
wooden temple, of which only the stone base
remains. This is a beautiful body of water
from which to take in a quiet sunrise.
Allow about one hour to visit Banteay Kdei
and take in the view over nearby Sra Srang.
Prasat Kravan ប្រាសាទ​ក្រវ៉ាន់
Uninspiring from the outside, the interior
brick carvings concealed within its towers
are the hidden treasure of Prasat Kravan.
The five brick towers here, which are ar-
ranged in a north–south line and oriented to
the east, were built for Hindu worship in AD
921. The structure is unusual in that it was
not constructed by royalty; this accounts for
its slightly distant location, away from the
centre of the capital. Prasat Kravan is just
south of the road between Angkor Wat and
Banteay Kdei.
148
Preah Khan
West Gate
(Tourist
Entrance;
200m)
D
Temples of Angkor P
A ights
S
Prasat Kravan was partially restored in
reah
roun dK han
1968, returning the brick carvings to their
former glory. The images of Vishnu in the
largest central tower show the eight-armed
A ngkor T hom
deity on the back wall, taking the three gigan-
tic steps with which he reclaimed the world
on the left wall; and riding a garuda on the
right wall. The northernmost tower displays
bas-reliefs of Vishnu’s consort, Lakshmi.
Preah Khan ព្រះ ខ័ន្ធ
The temple of Preah Khan (Sacred Sword)
is one of the largest complexes at Angkor –
a maze of vaulted corridors, fine carvings
and lichen-clad stonework. It is a good coun-
terpoint to Ta Prohm and generally sees
slightly fewer visitors. Preah Khan was built
by Jayavarman VII and probably served as
his temporary residence while Angkor Thom
was being built. Like Ta Prohm it is a place
of towered enclosures and shoulder-hugging
corridors. Unlike Ta Prohm, however, the
temple of Preah Khan is in a reasonable state
of preservation thanks to the ongoing resto-
ration efforts of the World Monuments Fund.
The central sanctuary of the temple was
dedicated in AD 1191 and a large stone stela
tells us much about Preah Khan’s role as a
centre for worship and learning. Originally
Two-Storey
Building with
Columns
D
Crossed East Gate
(Historic Main
Trees Entrance; 100m)
Hall of
Dancers
located within the first eastern enclosure,
this stela is now housed safely at Angkor
Conservation. The temple was dedicated
to 515 divinities and during the course of a
year 18 major festivals took place here, re-
quiring a team of thousands just to main-
tain the place.
Preah Khan covers a very large area, but
the temple itself is within a rectangular en-
closing wall of around 700m by 800m. Four
processional walkways approach the gates
of the temple, and these are bordered by
another stunning depiction of the Churning
of the Ocean of Milk, as in the approach to
Angkor Thom, although most of the heads
have disappeared. From the central sanctu-
ary, four long, vaulted galleries extend in
the cardinal directions. Many of the interior
walls of Preah Khan were once coated with
plaster that was held in place by holes in the
stone. Today, many delicate reliefs remain,
including rishi and apsara carvings.
The main entrance to Preah Khan is in
the east, but most tourists enter at the west
gate near the main road, walk the length of
the temple to the east gate before doubling
back to the central sanctuary, and exit at
the north gate. Approaching from the west,
there is little clue to nature’s genius, but on
the outer retaining wall of the east gate is a

pair of trees with monstrous roots embrac-
ing, one still reaching for the sky. There
is also a curious Grecian-style two-storey
structure in the temple grounds, the pur-
pose of which is unknown, but it looks like
an exile from Athens. Another option is to
enter from the north and exit from the east.
Given its vast size, it is sensible to set aside
at least 90 minutes to explore this temple,
even two hours.
Preah Khan is a genuine fusion temple,
the eastern entrance dedicated to Mahayana
Buddhism with equal-sized doors, and the
other cardinal directions dedicated to Shiva,
Vishnu and Brahma with successively small-
er doors, emphasising the unequal nature of
Hinduism.
Preah Neak Poan ព្រះនាគ​ព័ន្ធ
The Buddhist temple of Preah Neak Poan
(Temple of the Intertwined Nagas) is a pe-
tite yet perfect temple constructed by – not
him again, surely! – Jayavarman VII in the
late 12th century. It has a large square pool
surrounded by four smaller square pools. In
the middle of the central pool is a circular
‘island’ encircled by the two nagas whose in-
tertwined tails give the temple its name. It’s
a safe bet that if an ‘Encore Angkor’ casino is
Preah Neak Poan
Car Park
D
Elephant-Head
Spout
Horse-Head
Spout
Lion-Head
Spout
1 49
eventually developed in Las Vegas or Macau,
Preah Neak Poan will provide the blueprint
for the ultimate swimming complex.
In the pool around the central island
there were once four statues, but only one
remains, reconstructed from the debris by
the French archaeologists who cleared the
site. The curious figure has the body of a
horse supported by a tangle of human legs.
It relates to a legend that Avalokiteshvara
once saved a group of shipwrecked follow-
ers from an island of ghouls by transform-
ing into a flying horse. A beautiful replica of
this statue decorates the main roundabout
at Siem Reap International Airport.
Water once flowed from the central pool
into the four peripheral pools via orna-
mental spouts, which can still be seen in
Temples of Angkor P
the pavilions at each axis of the pool. The
spouts are in the form of an elephant’s head,
a horse’s head, a lion’s head and a human
head. The pool was used for ritual purifica-
tion rites.
Preah Neak Poan was once in the centre
of a huge 3km-by-900m baray serving Preah
Khan, known as Jayatataka, once again par-
tially filled with water due to a new opening
A ights
S
in the dyke road. Access is currently restrict-
reah
roun dN eak
ed to the edge of the complex via a wooden
causeway, so a visit takes only 30 minutes.
A ngkor
P oanT hom
Naga
Head
Human-Head
Horse
Statue Spout
Naga
Head
1 50
THE LONG STRIDER
One of Vishnu’s best-loved incarnations
was when he appeared as the dwarf
Vamana, and proceeded to reclaim the
world from the evil demon king Bali.
The dwarf politely asked the demon
king for a comfortable patch of ground
upon which to meditate, saying that
the patch need only be big enough so
that he could easily walk across it in
three paces. The demon agreed, only to
see the dwarf swell into a mighty giant
who strode across the universe in three
enormous steps. From this legend,
depicted at Prasat Kravan, Vishnu is
sometimes known as the ‘long strider’.
Temples of Angkor Ta
Ta Som តាសោម
Ta Som, which stands to the east of Preah
Neak Poan, is yet another of the late-12th-
century Buddhist temples of Jayavarman
VII, the Donald Trump of ancient Cambodia.
The most impressive feature at Ta Som is the
huge tree completely overwhelming the east-
A ights
S roun
ern gopura, providing one of the most popu-
S omd A ngkor T hom
lar photo opportunities in the Angkor area.
Eastern Baray &
Eastern Mebon gets pretty crowded.
បារាយណ៍​​មេបុណ្យ​ខាងក�ើត
The enormous one-time reservoir known as
the Eastern Baray was excavated by Yaso-
varman I, who marked its four corners with
stelae. This basin, now entirely dried up, was
the most important of the public works of
Yasodharapura, Yasovarman I’s capital, and
is 7km by 1.8km. It was originally fed by the
Siem Reap River.
The Hindu temple known as the East-
ern Mebon, erected by Rajendravarman II,
would have been situated on an islet in the
centre of the Eastern Baray reservoir, but
is now very much on dry land. This temple
is like a smaller version of Pre Rup, which
was built 15 to 20 years later and lies to the
south. The temple-mountain form is topped
off by the now familiar quintet of towers.
The elaborate brick shrines are dotted with
neatly arranged holes, which attached the
original plasterwork. The base of the temple
is guarded at its corners by perfectly carved
stone figures of elephants, many of which
are still in a very good state of preservation.
The Eastern Mebon is flanked by earthen
ramps, a clue that this temple was never
finished and a good visual guide to how the
temples were constructed.
Pre Rup ប្រែរូប​
Pre Rup, built by Rajendravarman II, is
about 1km south of the Eastern Mebon. Like
its nearby predecessor, the temple consists
of a pyramid-shaped temple-mountain with
the uppermost of the three tiers carrying
five lotus towers. The brick sanctuaries were
also once decorated with a plaster coat-
ing, fragments of which still remain on the
southwestern tower; there are some amaz-
ingly detailed lintel carvings here. Several of
the outermost eastern towers are perilously
close to collapse and are propped up by an
army of wooden supports.
Pre Rup means ‘Turning the Body’ and
refers to a traditional method of cremation
in which a corpse’s outline is traced in the
cinders, first in one direction and then in
the other; this suggests that the temple may
have served as an early royal crematorium.
Pre Rup is one of the most popular sunset
spots around Angkor, as the view over the
surrounding rice fields of the Eastern Baray
was beautiful, although some lofty trees
have rather obscured it these days. It also
Banteay Samré បន្ទាយ​សំរែ
Banteay Samré dates from the same period
as Angkor Wat and was built by Suryavar-
man II. The temple is in a fairly healthy
state of preservation due to some extensive
renovation work, although its isolation has
resulted in some looting during the past
few decades. The area consists of a central
temple with four wings, preceded by a hall
and also accompanied by two libraries, the
southern one remarkably well preserved.
The whole ensemble is enclosed by two large
concentric walls around what would have
been the unique feature of an inner moat,
sadly now dry.
Banteay Samré is 400m east of the East-
ern Baray. A visit here can be combined with
a trip to Banteay Srei or Phnom Bok in a
half-day trip.

Western Baray &
Western Mebon look like a few steaks have been sliced off
បារាយណ៍​មេបុណ្យខាងលិច
The Western Baray, measuring an incred-
ible 8km by 2.3km, was excavated by hand
to provide water for the intensive cultiva-
tion of lands around Angkor. Just for the
record, these enormous barays weren’t dug
out, rather huge dykes were built up around
the edges. In the centre of the Western Baray
is the ruin of the Western Mebon temple,
where the giant bronze statue of Vishnu
(now in the National Museum) was found.
The Western Mebon is accessible by boat
(US$10 for the boat) from the dam on the
southern shore.
The Western Baray is the main local
swimming pool around Siem Reap. There
is a small beach of sorts at the western ex-
treme (complete with picnic huts and in-
ner tubes for rent), which attracts plenty of
Khmers at weekends.
ROLUOS TEMPLES
The monuments of Roluos (រលួស), which
served as Indravarman I’s capital, Harihara-
laya, are among the earliest large, perma-
nent temples built by the Khmers and mark
the dawn of Khmer classical art. Before the
construction of Roluos, generally only light-
er (and less durable) construction materials
such as brick were employed.
The temples can be found 13km east of
Siem Reap along NH6 near the modern-day
town of Roluos. Plan a half-day visit togeth-
er with the stilted village of Kompong Pluk
(p115) or plan on two to three hours to ex-
plore the three temples.
Preah Ko ព្រះគោ
Preah Ko, erected by Indravarman I in the
late 9th century, was dedicated to Shiva. Six
prasats (stone halls), aligned in two rows
and decorated with carved sandstone and
plaster reliefs, face east; the central tower
of the front row is much larger than the
other towers. Preah Ko has some of the best
surviving examples of plasterwork seen at
Angkor and is currently under restoration
by a German team. There are elaborate in-
scriptions in the ancient Hindu language of
Sanskrit on the doorposts of each tower.
151
The towers of Preah Ko (Sacred Ox) fea-
ture three nandis (sacred oxen), all of whom
them over the years. Preah Ko was dedicated
by Indravarman I to his deified ancestors in
AD 880. The front towers relate to male an-
cestors or gods, the rear towers to female an-
cestors or goddesses. Lions guard the steps
up to the temple.
Bakong បាគង
Bakong is the largest and most interesting
of the Roluos Group of Temples, and has an
active Buddhist monastery just to the north
of the east entrance. It was built and dedi-
cated to Shiva by Indravarman I. It’s a rep-
Temples of Angkor W
resentation of Mt Meru, and it served as the
city’s central temple. The east-facing com-
plex consists of a five-tier central pyramid of
sandstone, 60m square at the base, flanked
by eight towers (or their remains) of brick
and sandstone and by other minor sanctuar-
ies. A number of the eight towers below the
upper central tower are still partly covered
by their original plasterwork.
The complex is enclosed by three con-
R ights
S
oluos
centric walls and a moat. There are well-
esternT emples
preserved statues of stone elephants on each
corner of the first three levels of the central
temple. There are 12 stupas – three to each
B aray & W estern M ebon
side – on the third tier. The sanctuary on the
GOOD-CAUSE PROJECTS
AROUND ROLUOS
Several good-cause initiatives have
sprung up around the Roluos area.
Look out for Prolung Khmer (www.
prolungkhmer.blogspot.com) on the road
between Preah Ko and Bakong. It’s a
weaving centre producing stylish cotton
kramas (scarves), set up as a training
collaboration between Cambodia and
Japan. Also here is the Lo-Yuyu ce-
ramics workshop, producing traditional
Angkorian-style pottery.
Right opposite Preah Ko is the
Khmer Group Art of Weaving, turn-
ing out silk and cotton scarves on tradi-
tional looms. Also here is Dy Proeung
Master Sculptor (donations accepted),
who has created scale replicas of Preah
Ko, Bakong and Lolei, plus Angkor Wat,
Preah Vihear and Banteay Srei for good
measure.
1 52
fifth level of Bakong temple was a later addi-
tion during the reign of Suryavarman II, in
the style of Angkor Wat’s central tower.
On the grounds of the temple, there is
also a very old wat, dating back a century
or more, which has recently been restored.
Lolei លលៃ
The four brick towers of Lolei, an almost
exact replica of the towers of Preah Ko (but
in much worse shape), were built on an islet
in the centre of a large reservoir – now rice
fields – by Yasovarman I, founder of the first
city at Angkor. The sandstone carvings in the
niches of the temples are worth a look and
there are Sanskrit inscriptions on the door-
Temples of Angkor Lolei
posts. According to one of the inscriptions,
the four towers were dedicated by Yaso-
varman I to his mother, his father and his
maternal grandparents on 12 July 893.
AROUND ANGKOR
Phnom Krom ភ្នំក្រោម
A ights
S roun d A ngkor
The temple of Phnom Krom, 12km south of
Siem Reap on a hill overlooking Tonlé Sap
lake, dates from the reign of Yasovarman I in
the late 9th or early 10th century. The name
means ‘Lower Hill’ and is a reference to its
geographic location in relation to its sister
temples of Phnom Bakheng and Phnom
Bok. The three towers, dedicated (from
north to south) to Vishnu, Shiva and Brah-
WHEN NATURE CALLS
Angkor is now blessed with some of the
finest public toilets in Asia. Designed
in wooden chalets and complete with
amenities such as electronic flush,
they wouldn’t be out of place in a fancy
hotel. The trouble is that the guardians
often choose not to run the genera-
tors that power the toilets, meaning it
is pretty dark inside the cubicles (but,
thankfully, you can flush manually,
too!). Entrance is free if you show your
Angkor pass; and the toilets are found
near most of the major temples.
Remember, in remote areas, don’t
stray off the path – being seen in a
compromising position is infinitely bet-
ter than stepping on a landmine.
ma, are in a ruined state, but Phnom Krom
remains one of the more tranquil spots from
which to view the sunset, complete with an
active wat. The fast boats from Phnom Penh
dock near here, but it is not possible to see
the temple from beneath the hill. If coming
here by moto or car, try to get the driver to
take you to the summit, as it is a long, hot
climb otherwise.
It is now necessary to have an Angkor
pass to visit the temple at the summit of
Phnom Krom, so don’t come all the way out
here without one, as the guards won’t allow
you access to the summit of the hill. Plan on
a half-day visit in tandem with exploring the
floating village of Chong Kneas (p115).
Phnom Bok ភ្នំបូក
Making up the triumvirate of temple moun-
tains built by Yasovarman I in the late 9th or
early 10th century, this peaceful but remote
location sees few visitors. The small temple
is in reasonable shape and includes two fran-
gipani trees growing out of a pair of ruined
towers – they look like some sort of extrava-
gant haircut when in full flower. However, it
is the views of Phnom Kulen to the north and
the plains of Angkor to the south from this
212m hill that make it worth the trip. The
remains of a 5m linga are also visible at the
opposite end of the hill and it’s believed there
were similar linga at Phnom Bakheng and
Phnom Krom. Unfortunately, it is not a sen-
sible place for sunrise or sunset, as it would
require a long journey in the dark.
There is a long, winding trail snaking up
the hill at Phnom Bok, which takes about 20
minutes to climb, plus a faster cement stair-
case that is fairly exposed. Avoid the heat of
the middle of the day and carry plenty of wa-
ter, which can be purchased locally.
Phnom Bok is about 25km from Siem
Reap and is clearly visible from the road to
Banteay Srei. It is accessible by continuing
east on the road to Banteay Samré for an-
other 6km. It is possible to loop back to Siem
Reap via the temples of Roluos by heading
south instead of west on the return journey,
and gain some rewarding glimpses of the
countryside.
Chau Srei Vibol ចៅស្រី​វ ិបុល
This petite hilltop temple used to see few
visitors, as it was difficult to access, but new
roads have put it on the temple map at last.

The central sanctuary is in a ruined state but
is nicely complemented by the construction
of a modern wat nearby. Surrounding the
base of the hill are laterite walls, each with
a small entrance hall in reasonable condi-
tion. To get here, turn east off the Roluos
to Anlong Veng highway at a point about
8km north of NH6, or 5km south of Phnom
Bok. There is a small sign (easy to miss) that
marks the turn. Locals are friendly and help-
ful should you find yourself lost.
Banteay Srei បន្ទាយ​ស្រី
The art gallery of Angkor, Banteay Srei is
considered by many to be the jewel in the
crown of Angkorian artisanship. A Hindu
temple dedicated to Shiva, it is cut from
stone of a pinkish hue and includes some of
the finest stone carving seen anywhere on
Earth. It is one of the smallest sites at Ang-
kor, but what it lacks in size it makes up for in
stature. It is wonderfully well preserved and
many of its carvings are three-dimensional.
Banteay Srei means ‘Citadel of the Women’
and it is said that it must have been built by
a woman, as the elaborate carvings are sup-
posedly too fine for the hand of a man.
Construction on Banteay Srei began in
AD 967 and it is one of the few temples
around Angkor to be commissioned not by
a king but by a brahman, who may have
been a tutor to Jayavarman V. The temple
is square and has entrances at the east and
west, the east approached by a causeway. Of
interest are the lavishly decorated libraries
and the three central towers, which are dec-
orated with male and female divinities and
beautiful filigree relief work.
Classic carvings at Banteay Srei include
delicate women with lotus flowers in hand
and traditional skirts clearly visible, as well
as breathtaking recreations of scenes from
the epic Ramayana adorning the library
pediments (carved inlays above a lintel).
However, the sum of the parts is no greater
than the whole – almost every inch of these
interior buildings is covered in decoration.
Standing watch over such perfect creations
are the mythical guardians, all of which are
copies of originals stored in the National
Museum.
Banteay Srei was the first major temple
restoration undertaken by the EFEO in 1930
using the anastylosis method. The project,
as evidenced today, was a major success and
soon led to other larger projects such as the
153
LANDMINE ALERT!
At no point during a visit to Kbal Spean
or Phnom Kulen should you leave well-
trodden paths, as there may be land-
mines in the area.
restoration of Bayon. Banteay Srei is also the
first to have been given a full makeover in
terms of facilities, with a large car park, a
designated dining and shopping area, clear
visitor information and a state-of-the-art ex-
hibition on the history of the temple and its
restoration.
When Banteay Srei was first rediscovered,
it was assumed to be from the 13th or 14th
Temples of Angkor B
centuries, as it was thought that the refined
carving must have come at the end of the
Angkor period. It was later dated to AD 967,
from inscriptions found at the site.
In 1923 Frenchman André Malraux was
arrested in Phnom Penh for attempting to
steal several of Banteay Srei’s major statues
and pieces of sculpture. Ironically, Malraux
was later appointed Minister of Culture un-
der Charles de Gaulle.
A ights
S roun
anteay
Banteay Srei is 21km northeast of Bayon
or about 32km from Siem Reap. It is well
signposted and the road is surfaced all the
d ASngkor
way – a trip from Siem Reap should take
rei
about 45 minutes. Moto and remork driv-
ers will want a bit of extra cash to come out
here, so agree on a sum first. It is possible
to combine a visit to Banteay Srei as part of
a long day trip to the River of a Thousand
Lingas at Kbal Spean and Beng Mealea. A
half-day itinerary might include Banteay
Srei, the Cambodia Landmine Museum and
Banteay Samre.
K bal Spean ក្បាល​ស្ពាន
A spectacularly carved riverbed, Kbal Spean
is set deep in the jungle to the northeast of
Angkor. More commonly referred to in Eng-
lish as the ‘River of a Thousand Lingas’, the
name actually means ‘bridgehead’, a refer-
ence to the natural rock bridge at the site.
Lingas have been elaborately carved into
the riverbed, and images of Hindu deities
are dotted about the area. Kbal Spean was
‘discovered’ in 1969, when EFEO ethnologist
Jean Boulbet was shown the area by a lo-
cal hermit; the area was soon off-limits due
to the civil war, only becoming safe again
in 1998.
154
It is a 2km uphill walk to the carvings,
along a pretty path that winds its way up
into the jungle, passing by some interest-
ing boulder formations along the way. Carry
plenty of water up the hill, as there is none
available beyond the parking area. The path
eventually splits to the waterfall or the river
carvings. There is an impressive carving of
Vishnu on the upper section of the river, fol-
lowed by a series of carvings at the bridge-
head itself, some of which have been tragi-
cally hacked off in the past few years. This
area is now roped off to protect the carvings
from further damage.
Following the river down, there are sev-
eral more impressive carvings of Vishnu,
and Shiva with his consort Uma, and further
downstream hundreds of lingas appear on
Temples of Angkor P
the riverbed. At the top of the waterfall are
many animal images, including a cow and a
frog, and a path winds around the boulders
to a wooden staircase leading down to the
base of the falls. Visitors between January
and May will be disappointed to see very
little water here. The best time to visit is be-
tween July and December. When exploring
Kbal Spean it is best to start with the river
A ights
S
carvings and work back down to the water-
hnom
roun dKAulen
fall to cool off. From the car park, the visit
takes about two hours including the walk,
nearer three hours with a natural shower
or a picnic. It’s the best part of a day trip if
ngkor
you include Angkor Centre for Conservation
ANGKOR CENTRE FOR
CONSERVATION OF
BIODIVERSITY
Conveniently located near the base of
the trail to Kbal Spean is the Angkor
Centre for Conservation of Biodi-
versity (Map p116; www.accb-cam
bodia.org; US$3 donation; h tours 1pm),
committed to rescuing, rehabilitating
and reintroducing threatened wildlife
to the Cambodian forests. Tours of the
centre are available daily at 1pm, taking
about 90 minutes. Species currently
under protection here include pangolin,
pileated gibbon, silvered langur, slow
loris, civet cat and leopard cat. There
are also several large water birds,
including the impressive sarus crane
and the extremely rare giant ibis, the
national bird of Cambodia.
of Biodiversity, Banteay Srei temple and the
Cambodian Landmine Museum.
Kbal Spean is about 50km northeast of
Siem Reap or about 18km beyond the temple
of Banteay Srei. The road is now excellent,
as it forms part of the new road north from
NH6 to Anlong Veng and the Thai border, so
it takes just one hour or so from town.
Moto drivers will no doubt want a bit of
extra money to take you here – a few extra
dollars should do, or US$12 to US$15 for the
day, including a trip to Banteay Srei. Like-
wise, remork drivers will probably push up
the price to US$20 or more. A surcharge is
also levied to come out here by car. Admis-
sion to Kbal Spean is included in the gen-
eral Angkor pass; the last entry to the site
is at 3.30pm.
Phnom Kulen ភ្នំ​គូលែន
Considered by Khmers to be the most sacred
mountain in Cambodia, Phnom Kulen is a
popular place of pilgrimage on weekends
and during festivals. It played a significant
role in the history of the Khmer empire, as
it was from here in AD 802 that Jayavarman
II proclaimed himself a devaraja (god-king)
and announced independence from Java,
giving birth to the Cambodian kingdom.
There is a small wat (Wat Preah Ang Thom)
at the summit of the mountain, which hous-
es a large reclining Buddha carved into the
sandstone boulder upon which it is built.
Nearby is a large waterfall and above it are
smaller bathing areas and a number of carv-
ings in the riverbed, including numerous
lingas. A private businessman bulldozed a
road up here a decade ago and charges a
US$20 toll per foreign visitor, an ambitious
fee compared with what you get for your
money at Angkor. Very little of the toll goes
towards preserving the site.
The road winds its way through some
spectacular jungle scenery, emerging on
the plateau after a 20km ascent. The road
eventually splits: the left fork leads to the
picnic spot, waterfalls and ruins of a 9th-
century temple; the right fork continues
over a bridge and some riverbed carvings to
the reclining Buddha. This is the focal point
of a pilgrimage here for Khmer people, so
it is important to take off your shoes and
any head covering before climbing the stairs
to the sanctuary. The views from the 487m
peak are tremendous, as you can see right
across the forested plateau.

The waterfall is an attractive spot but
would be much more beautiful if not for all
the litter left here by families picnicking at
the weekend. Near the top of the waterfall is
a jungle-clad temple known as Prasat Krau
Romeas, dating from the 9th century.
There are plenty of other Angkorian sites
on Phnom Kulen, including as many as 20
minor temples around the plateau, the most
important of which is Prasat Rong Chen,
the first pyramid or temple-mountain to be
constructed in the Angkor area. Most im-
pressive of all are the giant stone animals or
guardians of the mountain, known as Sra
Damrei (Elephant Pond). These are very dif-
ficult to get to, with the trail impassable in
the wet season. The few people who make
it, however, are rewarded with a life-size
replica of a stone elephant – a full 4m long
and 3m tall – and smaller statues of lions, a
frog and a cow. These were constructed on
the southern face of the mountain and from
here there are spectacular views across the
plains below. Getting to Sra Damrei requires
taking a moto from Wat Preah Ang Thom
for about 12km on very rough trails through
thick forest before arriving at a sheer rock
face. From here it is a 1km walk to the ani-
mals through the forest. Don’t try to find it
on your own; expect to pay the moto driver
about US$8 to US$10 (with some hard nego-
tiating) and carry plenty of water.
Phnom Kulen is a huge plateau around
50km from Siem Reap and about 15km from
Banteay Srei. To get here on the new toll
road, take the well-signposted right fork just
before Banteay Srei village and go straight
ahead at the crossroads. Just before the road
starts to climb the mountain, there is a bar-
rier and it is here that the US$20 charge
is levied. It is possible to buy a cheaper
entrance ticket to Phnom Kulen for US$12
from the City Angkor Hotel in Siem Reap. It
is only possible to go up Phnom Kulen be-
fore 11am and only possible to come down
after midday, to avoid vehicles meeting on
the narrow road. There are plenty of small
restaurants and food stalls located near the
waterfall or in the small village near Wat
Preah Ang Thom.
Moto drivers are likely to want about
US$20 or more to bring you out here, and
rented cars will hit passengers with a sur-
charge, more than double the going rate for
Angkor; forget coming by remork as the
hill climb is just too tough. With the long
journey here, it is best to plan on spending
155
THE LOST CITY OF
MAHENDRAPRAVARTA
Phnom Kulen hit the headlines in 2013
thanks to the ‘discovery’ of a lost city
known as Mahendrapravarta in Ang-
korian times. Using ground-piercing
LIDAR radar technology, the structures
of a more extensive archaeological site
have been unveiled beneath the jungle
canopy and earth. However, it wasn’t
quite as dramatic a discovery as initially
reported, as Phnom Kulen had long
been known as an important archaeo-
logical site. The LIDAR research con-
firmed the size and scale of the ancient
city, complete with canals and barays,
Temples of Angkor B
in the same way NASA satellite imagery
had helped identify the size and scale
of the greater Angkor hydraulic water
system more than a decade ago. Some
new temples and features were identi-
fied beneath the jungle, but remain
remote and inaccessible due to terrain
and the possibility of landmines.
A ights
S
roun
eng Mdealea
the best part of a day exploring, although it
can be combined with either Banteay Srei or
Beng Mealea.
A ngkor
Beng Mealea បឹងមាលា
One of the most mysterious temples at Ang-
kor, Beng Mealea (admission US$5) is a spec-
tacular sight to behold as nature has well
and truly run riot. Built to the same floor
plan as Angkor Wat, this titanic temple is
Angkor’s ultimate Indiana Jones experience.
Built in the 12th century under Suryavar-
man II, Beng Mealea is enclosed by a mas-
sive moat measuring 1.2km by 900m, part of
which is now dried up.
The temple used to be utterly consumed
by jungle, but some of the dense foliage has
been cut back and cleaned up in recent years.
Entering from the south, visitors wend their
way over piles of finely chiselled sandstone
blocks, through long, dark chambers and
between hanging vines. The central tower
has completely collapsed, but hidden away
among the rubble and foliage are several im-
pressive carvings, as well as a well-preserved
library in the northeastern quadrant. The
temple is a special place and it is worth
taking the time to explore it thoroughly –
1 56

Beng Mealea

Retaining Wall

Library

Turtle
Collapsed Carving
Central
Tower Library

Library
Temples of Angkor Koh

Library

Visitor
Access
To Main Entrance,
Parking & Food Stalls
D

(300m)
R ights
S

apsara caretakers can show you where rock- beyond the left-hand turn to Koh Ker. Allow
emote

hopping and climbing is permitted. The large a half day to visit, including the journey time
K er A ngkorian S ites

wooden walkway to and around the centre
was originally constructed for the filming of
Jean-Jacques Annaud’s Two Brothers (2004),
set in 1930s French Indochina and starring
two tiger cubs. The filming included 20 ti-
gers of all ages for continuity throughout the
story.
There are very basic, unmarked family
homestays a few hundred metres behind the
restaurants opposite the temple entrance.
The best restaurant is Romduol Angkor II
(mains US$5), a sister restaurant to the Rom-
duol Angkor near Sra Srang. Wholesome
Cambodian food is on offer, plus cold drinks.
It costs US$5 to visit Beng Mealea and
there are additional small charges for trans-
port – make sure you work out in advance
with the driver or guide who is paying this.
Beng Mealea is about 40km east of Bayon
(as the crow flies) and 6.5km southeast of
Phnom Kulen. By road it is about 68km (one
hour by car, longer by moto or remork) from
Siem Reap. The shortest route is via the
junction town of Dam Dek, located on NH6
about 37km from Siem Reap in the direction
of Phnom Penh. Turn north immediately af-
ter the market and continue on this road for
31km. The entrance to the temple lies just
from Siem Reap or combine it with Koh Ker
in a long day trip best undertaken by car or
4WD.
Beng Mealea is at the centre of an ancient
Angkorian road connecting Angkor Thom
and Preah Khan in Preah Vihear Province,
now evocatively numbered NH66. A small
Angkorian bridge just west of Chau Srei Vi-
bol temple is the only remaining trace of the
old Angkorian road between Beng Mealea
and Angkor Thom; between Beng Mealea
and Preah Khan there are at least 10 bridges
abandoned in the forest. This is a way for ex-
treme adventurers to get to Preah Khan tem-
ple; but don’t undertake this journey lightly.
REMOTE
ANGKORIAN SITES
Koh Ker កោះ​កេរ
Abandoned for centuries to the forests of
the north, Koh Ker (admission US$10), capi-
tal of the Angkorian empire from AD 928 to
AD 944, was for a long time one of Cambo-
dia’s most remote and inaccessible temple

complexes. Now, since the opening of a toll
road from Dam Dek (via Beng Mealea), Koh
Ker (pronounced ko-kaye) is within day-
trip distance of Siem Reap. But to really
appreciate the temples – the ensemble has
42 major structures in an area that meas-
1 57
ures 9km by 4km – it’s necessary to spend
at least one night.
Several of the most impressive sculptures
in the National Museum come from Koh
Ker, including the huge garuda that greets
visitors in the entrance hall and a unique

Koh Ker

Temples of Angkor Koh

Prasat
Thneng
Prasat Thom
Group Northern
Group
Prasat
Prasat Leung
Krahom

R ights
S emote
RAHAL

K er A ngkorian S ites

Southern
Group

Prasat
Bram
158
carving depicting a pair of wrestling mon-
key kings.
Most visitors start at Prasat Krahom
(Red Temple), the second-largest structure
at Koh Ker, named for the red bricks from
which it is constructed. Sadly, none of the
carved lions for which this temple was once
known remain, though there’s still plenty to
see – stone archways and galleries lean hith-
er and thither and impressive stone carvings
grace lintels and doorposts. A naga-flanked
causeway and a series of sanctuaries, librar-
ies and gates lead past trees and vegetation-
covered ponds. Just west of Prasat Krahom,
at the far western end of a half-fallen colon-
nade, are the remains (most of the head) of
a statue of Nandin.
Temples of Angkor Koh
The principal monument at Koh Ker is
Prasat Thom (Prasat Kompeng), a 55m-
wide, 40m-high sandstone-faced pyramid
with seven tiers. This striking structure, just
west of Prasat Krahom, looks like it could
almost be a Mayan site somewhere on the
Yucatán Peninsula. Currently, the staircase
to the top remains closed for safety reasons,
as it is crumbling apart in places. Some 40
inscriptions, dating from 932 to 1010, have
R leeping
S emote
been found here.
South of this central group is a 1185m-by-
K er A ngkorian
548m baray known as the Rahal. It is fed
by the Sen River, which supplied water to
& E ating S ites
irrigate the land in this arid area.
Some of the largest Shiva linga in Cam-
bodia can still be seen in four temples about
1km northeast of Prasat Thom. The largest
is found in Prasat Thneng, while Prasat
Leung is similarly well endowed.
Among the many other temples that are
found around Koh Ker, Prasat Bram is a
real highlight. It consists of a collection of
brick towers, at least two of which have been
completely smothered by voracious stran-
gler figs; the probing roots cut through the
brickwork like liquid mercury.
4 Sleeping & Eating
Near the main temple of Prasat Thom, there
are a few small eateries (daylight hours) run
by the wives of the heritage police stationed
here. The nearby village of Srayong (10km)
has a few eateries at both the old and the
new markets, Psar Chaa and Psar Thmei.
LANDMINE ALERT!
Many of the Koh Ker temples were
mined during the war, but by 2008
most had been cleared: de-mining
teams reported removing from the area
a total of 1382 mines and 1,447,212
pieces of exploded and unexploded
ordnance. However, considering what’s
at stake, it’s best to err on the side of
caution. Do not stray from previously
trodden paths or wander off into the
forest, as there may be landmines with-
in a few hundred metres of the temples.
Mom Morokod ¨
Koh Ker Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $
(% 011935114; r from US$10) About 200m south
of the Koh Ker toll plaza, which is 8km south
of Prasat Krahom, this quiet guesthouse has
11 clean, spacious rooms with elaborately
carved wooden doors and bathrooms.
Ponloeu Preah ¨
Chan Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $
(% 012489058; r US$5) Located in the nearby
village of Srayong, this friendly, family-run
guesthouse has 14 rooms with bare walls,
mosquito nets and barely enough space for
a double bed. Toilets and showers are out
back.
88 Getting There & Away
Koh Ker is 127km northeast of Siem Reap (2½
hours by car) and 72km west of Tbeng Meanchey
(two hours). The toll road from Dam Dek, paved
only as far as the Preah Vihear Province line,
passes by Beng Mealea, 61km southwest of Koh
Ker; one-day excursions from Siem Reap often
visit both temple complexes. Admission fees are
collected at the toll barrier near Beng Mealea if
travelling from Siem Reap; make sure you get a
proper printed receipt.
From Siem Reap, hiring a private car for a
day trip to Koh Ker costs about US$80. There’s
no public transport to Koh Ker, although a few
pick-ups (10,000r) link Srayong, 10km south of
Prasat Krahom, with Siem Reap. It might also be
possible to take one of the share taxis that link
Siem Reap with Tbeng Meanchey and get off at
Srayong.
 PD
F
Queensland &
the Great
Barrier Reef
(PDF Chapter) COVERAGE INCLUDES:
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Queensland &
the Great Barrier Reef
Brisbane���������������������282
Gold Coast������������������ 316
Noosa &
the Sunshine Coast����329
Capricorn Coast���������362
Whitsunday Coast������ 381
Townsville to
Mission Beach������������395
Cairns & Around��������� 413
Cape York
Peninsula��������������������458
Off the Beaten
Track
Why Go?
From the surf-soaked Gold Coast beaches to the tropical
Daintree rainforest, this massive state offers a dizzying array
of distractions. Queensland’s big-ticket lure is the 2000km-
long submarine kingdom of the Great Barrier Reef: fish,
fish, coral and more fish... Islands are also a Queensland
speciality: everything from photogenic coral-fringed beau-
ties to rugged sand isles ripe for adventure.
Speaking of adventure, the ‘Sunshine State’ really deliv-
ers: snorkel or dive under warm ocean waves, go white-water
rafting on grade-IV rapids, kayak the coastline, surf a clas-
sic point break, or bushwalk through rainforests and gorges.
Wildlife-watching is superb here too, with tropical birds,
whales, cassowaries and crocs filling your photo album.
When the sun sets, Queensland doesn’t go to bed: seafood
feasts, cool bars, live bands and pumping clubs await (es-
pecially in Brisbane, arguably Australia’s hippest city). The
hardest part is deciding where to begin…

¨¨Lizard Island (p460)

¨¨Lamington National Park When to Go
(p328)
Cairns
¨¨Torres Strait Islands (p471) °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm

¨¨Mt Isa (p374) 40/104 20/500

¨¨Rainbow Beach (p352) 30/86

16/400

12/300
20/68
8/200
Best Places to 10/50
4/100
Stay 0/32 0
J F M A M J J A S O N D
¨¨Azjure Studio Retreat (p344)
¨¨Svendsen’s Beach (p370)
Jan The Wet Jun–Aug Peak Sep Warm spring
¨¨Bowen Terrace (p299) brings heavy tourist season in days: it’s perfect
rains up north, the tropics: mild in Brisbane, or
¨¨Reef House Resort & Spa
and summer heat days, cool nights beat the crowds
(p436) and humidity (bring a jacket). to the Gold Coast.
¨¨Hillcrest Guest House (p459) elsewhere.
 2 75

DON’T MISS
Places to Stick Around
Sometimes you just need to find that quaint little beach Farmers markets are
town, put the backpack down and take a break from travel- great opportunities to
ling. After long days on the road, Mission Beach is a perfect sample Queensland’s
place to recharge, with beaut beaches, rainforest walks and culinary riches and
an easygoing vibe. Cairns, Surfers Paradise and Airlie Beach support local growers.
are heaving with backpackers – if you’re looking to party, Our faves are in Bris-
look no further. Just north of Cairns, hip Port Douglas has a bane, Noosa and little
long, lovely shoreline and makes a relaxed base for exploring Eumundi, which has a
the area. Surf junkies may want to put down temporary roots market almost bigger
further south: check out Noosa, which has a little of every- than the town.
thing (beaches, surf, national parks, low- and high-end ac-
commodation and restaurants) or Burleigh Heads and Cool-
angatta – even more laid-back, with plenty of great waves. In
Brisbane, unwind in the West End for a few days: bars, book-
shops and brilliant coffee (the pillars of civilised society). Fast Facts

Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef 

¨¨Population: 4.56 million
REGIONAL TOURS ¨¨Area: 1,852,642 sq km
(slightly larger than Alaska
Queensland is absolutely humongous: taking an or-
and Greece combined)
ganised tour of the hot-spots (or off-the-beaten-track
areas) is a great way to cover some territory. ¨¨Birds: 630 species
Plenty of operators offer 4WD tours of Cape York
Peninsula – mainland Australia’s northern tip – often
with the option of driving one way and flying or boating Top Tips
the other.
¨¨Don’t swim off northern
Tours of Fraser Island from Noosa and Hervey Bay are
beaches during the stinger
an easy way to see one of Queensland’s natural wonders,
(box jellyfish) season from
especially if you don’t feel like tackling the 4WD-ing alone
November to May.
(it’s tough going, even for experienced drivers).
For sailing, few places rival the Whitsunday Islands. ¨¨If you’re a sea-sickness
Many operators based in Airlie Beach offer cruises, or sufferer, don’t forget your
if you want to do your own thing, you can get a group ginger tablets before
together and charter a yacht. boating out to the Great
Barrier Reef.

Resources
Best Wildlife Watching ¨¨Lonely Planet (www.
¨¨Humpback whales See them off Hervey Bay during their lonelyplanet.com/australia/
annual migration (late July to early November). queensland) Tours, hotels,
¨¨Koalas Spot them on Magnetic Island. history, eating, drinking,
getting-around info...the
¨¨Cassowaries Look for them wandering around Mission
works!
Beach and Cape Tribulation.
¨¨Courier Mail (www.
¨¨Platypuses See them in Eungella National Park.
couriermail.com.au)
¨¨Sea turtles From November to March on Mon Repos Brisbane’s daily newspaper
beach you can see nesting sea turtles lumbering up from the online. Who won the rugby?
deep, followed weeks later by tiny hatchlings making a dash ¨¨Queensland Holidays
for the water. (www.queenslandholidays.
¨¨Crocodiles Saltwater (estuarine) crocodiles – the world’s com.au) Great for trip
largest crocodile species – live along the tropical north planning.
Queensland coast. Snap some photos on a cruise along the
Daintree River.
 2 76
theGreat
Queensl and &&the Barrier
Gre atBarrier & th e G r e at B a r r i e r R e e f H i g h l i g h ts
Reef
Reef
PAPUA PAPUA NEW GUINEA Torres Strait Islands
NEW GUINEA (Mugie Daudai) 0 40 km
Queensland Boigu 0 20 miles

s
Dauan Ugar
& the Great See Torres Strait Islands Inset Saibai (Stephen Is)

Reef
Barrier Erub
(Darnley Is)

ior
Reef Torres Strait

arr
Torres

W
S t r a i t Masig
Highlights (Yorke Is) Mer
1 A perfect Iama (Murray Is)
Brisbane day: coffee Mabuiag (Yam Is) Poruma
in the West End, the (Coconut Is)
Crocodiles can inhabit all Jardine River Badu
Gallery of Modern waterways in tropical areas; National Park Moa
Art, and a few beers swimming is not recommended. St Pauls Warraber
Kubin
in Fortitude Valley (Sue Is)
0 200 km
(p282) 0 100 miles
Thursday Is
2 Hiking Weipa Ad
Muri
through gorges ol
Horn Is phu (Mt Adolphus Is) CORAL
s
t Barrier Reef

and rainforests in Muralag SEA

Lamington National (Prince of Cape York Cha
Wales Is) Peninsula nn
Grea

Park (p328) ABORIGINAL Bamaga el

LAND Oyala
3 Chilling with a Gulf of
Thumotang Coen Great Barrier
kangaroo at the eco- Carpentaria National Park Reef Marine Park
friendly Australia Cape York
Zoo (p337) Peninsula CORAL
Lizard Island SEA
4 Bushwalking, M Lakefield
i National Park
kayaking or surfing

tch
ell
followed by a ritzy Laura Cooktown
dinner in Noosa Mornington Lakeland 81 Bloomfield Track
(p331) Island Daintree Daintree National Park

Ri
v
er National Park (Cape Tribulation Section)
5 Exploring the (Mossman Mossman
sand-scape scenery Staaten River Gorge Section) Port Douglas
of Fraser Island National Park
Atherton Cairns
(p347) Chillagoe Tableland
Karumba
Burketown Normanton Great Barrier
Innisfail Reef
Croydon
Tully Mission Beach
Boodjamulla 1 Dunk Island
(Lawn Hill) Cardwell
National Park Hinchinbrook Island

F
 Ingham

Fli
n

R
Bu Paluma Range
63
r National Park

ders

Leicihver
83

dek
Camooweal 62 A7
Magnetic Island
6 Steering a yacht

in
1

hardt
Ri Townsville
around the azure seas 66 ve
r
Ri
A2 e v

Gr
off the Whitsunday Charters r 1 A1

ea
Quamby

t
Islands (p384) Towers Bowen Whitsunday
Mt Isa 78 A6 Ravenswood Islands
7 Snorkelling Cloncurry 78 Airlie
66 A2 A6
Hamilton Island
over the fabled Beach Lindeman Island

Di
v
Hughenden

id
Great Barrier Reef

in
g
off Cairns or Port Mackay
Douglas (p417) 83 Ra
8 Discovering ng
e
ancient rock art in the Winton
Boulia 62
twisting sandstone A7
Bladensburg
canyon of Carnarvon 66 A2 1 A1
National Park
Gorge (p372) Longreach 55

9 Tackling the Yeppoon

83 Diamantina Barcaldine Emerald Great Keppel Island
rugged 4WD 66 A4
National Park Rockhampton
Bloomfield Track Bedourie 71 A2 66 Tropic of
A4
from Cape Trib to er Capricorn

Riv
Welford Carnarvon Gladstone
Cooktown (p457) National Park Gorge
Simpson Desert

na
i Biloela Town of 1770
a Getting up early National Park ant Expedition
am Idalia r A3
to surf the point break Di ve National Park Fraser Island
Ri

k National Park
at Burleigh Heads Birdsville ee Bundaberg
Cr 39 Hervey
go

er
(p324) 17
Childers

op
rre
Bay Great
55 A5

Co
54 A2 Sandy NP
Wa

Maryborough

River
Charleville A7 G (Cooloola
Quilpie Section)
Div reat 1 A1
Rainbow
54 A2 Gympie
Roma
Ra iding Beach

o
Noosa
nge
Maroochydore

llo
71 54 A2 Australia Zoo
Bu 49 Moreton Bay Caloundra
SOUTH
Cunnamulla 49
BRISBANE North
AUSTRALIA Currawinya
Toowoomba Stradbroke
St George
National Park 85
Culgoa Floodplain 55
Burleigh Heads Island
National Park 46 Lamington National Park
79 Coolangatta
NEW SOUTH WALES Stanthorpe Springbrook
theGreat
Queensl and &&the Barrier
Gre atBarrier & th e G r e at B a r r i e r R e e f H i g h l i g h ts
Reef
Reef
National Park
277
2 78
History
Europeans first arrived in Queensland in the
1600s with Dutch, Portuguese and French
navigators exploring the northeastern region,
and then in 1770 Captain James Cook took
possession of the east coast. By 1825 the area
that is present-day downtown Brisbane was
established as a penal colony for the more in-
tractable convicts. Despite fierce Aboriginal
resistance, the area was later settled (Queens-
land’s early white settlers carried out one of
the biggest land acquisitions of all time) and
in 1859 the state became a separate colony
independent of New South Wales (NSW).
Since that time, Queensland has experienced
dynamic growth and progress, aided by the
discovery of gold and other minerals in the
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef 
survivors. A few of these were run according
to well-meaning (if misguided) missionary
ideals, but the majority of them were strife-
ridden places where people from different
areas and cultures were thrown unhappily
together and treated as virtual prisoners.
Today, ‘Murri’ is the generic term used to
refer to the Indigenous peoples of Queens-
land. Indigenous Torres Strait Islanders come
from the islands of the Torres Strait, located
off the coast of Cape York. They are culturally
distinct from the Aboriginal tribes that origi-
nated on Australia’s mainland, having been
influenced by indigenous Papua New Guin-
eans and Pacific Islanders. Traditionally they
were seafaring people, engaging in trade with
people from the surrounding islands and Pa-
pua New Guinea, and with mainland Aborigi-

1860s and ’70s, and successful sugar-cane

production. Mining and agriculture continue
to form the state’s economic backbone today.
Natural disasters (devastating floods and
cyclones) have failed to sour the national ap-
petite for Queensland. Brisbane is booming,
with a youthful exuberance and artsy flair the
other big cities find hard to match.
Indigenous Queensland
Before Europeans arrived, Queensland con-
tained over 200 of Australia’s 600 to 700
Aboriginal nations. Among them, they spoke
at least 90 languages and dialects. Like many
pre-colonial countries, the cultural and geo-
graphic boundaries of indigenous Australia
bore little resemblance to the state’s borders
as they are today. By the turn of the 19th cen-
tury, the Aboriginal people who had survived
the bloody settlement of Queensland, which
saw some of the most brutal massacres in
Australia, had been comprehensively run off
their lands, and the white authorities had
set up ever-shrinking reserves to contain the
nal people. Some 6800 Torres Strait Islanders
remain on the islands in the strait; an esti-
mated 42,000 live in northern Queensland.
Rock Art
Rock art is a diary of human activity by Aus-
tralia’s Indigenous peoples stretching over
tens of thousands of years. Queensland has
plenty of sites, especially in the far north.
The experience of viewing rock art in the
surroundings in which it was painted is far
more profound than seeing it in a gallery.
One of Queensland’s most spectacular sites
is inside the Carnarvon Gorge, with amazing
rock and stencil art dating back 19,000 years.
Quinkan rock art is a very distinct style
from northern Australia, and there are hun-
dreds of ancient sites around Laura in Cape
York. The most accessible is the Split Rock
site.
Tours & Cultural Experiences
In addition to the beautiful rock-art sites, you
can encounter living Aboriginal culture at

WHEN IT RAINS, IT POURS: BRISBANE FLOODS 2011 & 2013

Wild tropical weather in January 2011, then again in January 2013, caused major flood-
ing throughout Queensland, with many towns inundated and isolated. Brisbane didn’t
escape: the 2011 soaking was the city’s biggest flood since 1974. The usually placid
Brisbane River became a swirling torrent of brown water, sweeping boats, pontoons and
debris downstream. Flood water streamed into the CBD’s riverfront areas, while in low-
lying suburbs only rooftops remained above the waterline. The South Bank Parklands
were drenched, ferry terminals were swept away, riverside restaurants and bars satu-
rated, and the city’s fabulous floating riverside pathway, the Riverwalk, was destroyed.
In many parts of the city, little evidence of the floods remained a few months later, but in
2013 the rains came again – this time the tail-end of Tropical Cyclone Oswald – flooding
many of the same areas. Damage was less dramatic this time, but caused heartbreak
for those home- and business-owners who had just rebuilt after 2011.

the Hopevale community (check out Guurrbi
Tours, 458) north of Cooktown. There are
Aboriginal-led tours at Mossman Gorge and
Malanda Falls. The Gab Titui Cultural Centre
on Thursday Island is a unique development
by Torres Strait Islander communities, and
at the Tjapukai Cultural Park near Cairns
an award-winning Aboriginal dance group
performs most days for tourists. The annual
Dreaming Festival, held as part of the Wood-
ford Folk Festival, is a colourful showcase of
indigenous arts from across the country.
Perhaps the most exciting event, however,
is the Laura Aboriginal Dance Festival, held
every odd-numbered year in June on the
Cape York Peninsula.
National Parks
There are some 220 national parks and
state forests dotted around Queensland,
and while some comprise only a single hill
or lake, others are major wilderness areas.
Many islands, expanses of water and stretch-
es of coast are also national parks.
Three of the most spectacular national
parks inland are Lamington, on the forest-
ed rim of an ancient volcano on the NSW
border; Carnarvon, with its dramatic 30km
gorge southwest of Rockhampton; and, near
Mackay, rainforested Eungella swarms with
wildlife.
On the coast, the Great Sandy National
Park (Cooloola) is a mesmerising tangle of
mangroves, rivers and forest; and, of course,
there’s the jewel in Queensland’s crown – the
Great Barrier Reef Marine Park.
The Queensland Department of National
Parks, Recreation, Sport & Racing website
(www.nprsr.qld.gov.au) has details of all the
national parks, including bushwalks and
other activities, safety and history of the
parks, plus permits for camping and off-
road driving.
2 Activities
Bushwalking
Queensland’s bigger national parks have
kilometres of marked year-round walking
tracks, plus there are excellent bushwalking
opportunities in smaller state and national
parks. Many of the favourites are part of the
Queensland government’s Great Walks of
Queensland network: 10 tracks designed to
allow walkers to experience rainforests and
bushland without disturbing the ecosystem.
Walk locations include the Whitsundays, the
Sunshine Coast, the Sunshine Coast hinter-
279
LOADS OF TOADS
Cane toads were introduced to Aus-
tralia in 1935 in an attempt to control
the pesky sugar cane beetle. They’re
not pretty: warty skin, heavy-ridged
eyes, poisonous glands... Worse,
they’ve proved to be absolutely use-
less: they ignore the cane grubs and
instead focus on reproducing. Widely
hated, there are now over 200 million
cane toads around Australia – an inva-
sion that has seen populations of native
snakes and goannas decline. But not
everyone loathes them: Queensland’s
representative rugby league team has
the cane toad as its unofficial mascot,
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef Act
and the toad has been listed by the
National Trust of Queensland as a state
icon (warts and all).
land, the Mackay highlands, Fraser Island,
the Gold Coast hinterland, Carnarvon Gorge
and tropical north Queensland. See www.
nprsr.qld.gov.au/experiences/great-walks for
more information.
Also around the state you can tackle
Hinchinbrook Island’s famed Thorsborne
Trail; Wooroonooran, which contains
Queensland’s highest peak, Mt Bartle Frere
(1657m); and the traditional walking trails
of the Jirrbal and Mamu Aboriginal people.
Camping
There are some top camping spots in Queens-

land. Many of the state and national parks
have camping grounds, with toilets, showers
ivities
and sometimes electric barbecues. You’ll also
find privately run camping grounds, motels
and lodges on national park fringes.
In order to camp in a national park you
will need a permit. You can self-register at
a handful of sites, but for the vast major-
ity you will need to purchase a permit in
advance: the easiest way is via the ParksQ
service on the Queensland Department of
National Parks, Recreation, Sport & Racing
website (www.nprsr.qld.gov.au). Camping
in national parks and state forests costs
$5.45/21.80 per person/family per night.
Popular parks fill up at holiday times – book
well in advance.
Diving & Snorkelling
The Queensland coast is dotted with plenty
of spectacular dive sites. The Great Barrier
280
Reef provides some of the world’s best div-
ing and snorkelling, and there are dozens of
operators vying to teach you to scuba dive
or provide you with the ultimate dive safari.
There are also some 1600 shipwrecks along
the state’s coast, providing vivid and densely
populated marine metropolises for you to
explore. Most big towns along the coast have
a dive school (or two), though the most pop-
ular places to learn are Airlie Beach, Cairns
and Townsville.
You can snorkel just about everywhere in
Queensland; it requires minimum effort and
anyone can do it. Many diving locations are
also popular snorkelling sites.
Diving is generally good year-round, al-
though during the wet season – roughly
December to March – floods can wash mud
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef Act
out into the ocean and visibility for divers
and snorkellers is sometimes affected. Also,
all water activities, including diving and
snorkelling, are affected by stingers (box jel-
lyfish), which are found along the Queens-
land coast from Agnes Water north between
November and May.
Extreme Sports
Queensland has its fair share of activities to
satisfy thrillseekers. Try bungee jumping at
major tourist stops such as Airlie Beach and
Cairns, or hit the rollercoasters at the Gold
Coast theme parks. You can also try skydiv-
ing here: hurl yourself out of a perfectly
good aeroplane at Caloundra, Airlie Beach
or Mission Beach.

DIVING & SNORKELLING OUTSIDE THE GREAT BARRIER REEF
ivities
SITE OPERATOR
North Stradbroke Manta Lodge
Island (www.mantalodge.com.au)
Moreton Island Diveworld
(www.diveworld.com.au)
Southport Diving the Gold Coast
(www.divingthegoldcoast.
com.au)
Mooloolaba Scuba World
(www.scubaworld.com.au)
Hervey Bay Dive Hervey Bay
(www.diveherveybay.com.au)
Rainbow Beach Wolf Rock Dive Centre
(www.wolfrockdive.com.au)
Bundaberg Bundaberg Aqua Scuba
(www.aquascuba.com.au)
Sailing & Fishing
Nautical types will find plenty of places in
Queensland with boats and/or sailboards
for hire. Manly (near Brisbane) and Airlie
Beach – gateway to the Whitsunday Islands –
are probably the biggest centres, with all
kinds of options for messing about in boats.
The Whitsunday Islands, with their plentiful
bays and calm waters, are especially popu-
lar. Day trips start at around $100, while
overnight trips start at around $250. Bare-
boat charters (sailing yourself) are also pos-
sible from around $500 per day.
Fishing is one of Queensland’s most
popular sports: you can hire fishing gear
and/or boats in many places. Fraser Island,
Karumba, Cooktown and North Stradbroke
Island are some good spots. The Great Bar-
rier Reef has tight fishing regulations: for
comprehensive information, contact the
Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Author-
ity (% 07-4750 0700; www.gbrmpa.gov.au), based
in Townsville.
Surfing
There are some fantastic breaks along
Queensland’s southeast coast, most nota-
bly at Coolangatta, Burleigh Heads, Surfers
Paradise, North Stradbroke Island, Noosa
and Town of 1770. Surf shops in these areas
generally offer board hire, or you can buy
secondhand ones. If you’ve never hit the
surf before, it’s a good idea to have a lesson
or two.
WHAT YOU’LL SEE
Manta rays, leopard and grey nurse sharks,
humpback whales, turtles, dolphins, hard and
soft corals
Tangalooma Wrecks; good snorkelling site
Abundant marine life, including rays, sharks,
turtles and 200 fish species
Ex-HMAS Brisbane, a sunken warship off
the coast
Shallow caves, schools of large fish, wreck
dives, turtles, sea snakes, stonefish, rays,
trevally
Grey nurse sharks, turtles, manta rays and
giant groupers amid volcanic pinnacles
Wreck dives, groupers, turtles, rays, live-
aboard dive boat

KAYAKING SITES
SITE OPERATOR
North Stradbroke Island Straddie Adventures
(www.straddieadventures.com.au)
Great Sandy Elanda Point
National Park (www.elanda.com.au)
Whitsunday Islands Salty Dog
(www.saltydog.com.au)
Noosa Noosa Ocean Kayak
(www.noosa
kayaktours.com)
Magnetic Island Magnetic Island Sea Kayaks
(www.seakayak.com.au)
Mission Beach Coral Sea Kayaking
(www.coralseakayak.com)
Swimming
North of Fraser Island the beaches are shel-
tered by the Great Barrier Reef: no surf,
but great for swimming. There are also
some fantastic freshwater swimming spots
around the state in rivers and waterholes.
Box jellyfish are a serious problem from
Rockhampton north between October and
April. Also be aware of saltwater crocs (salt-
ies) cruising in the coastal waters and rivers
north of Rockhampton: heed any warning
signs.
White-Water Rafting, ¨
Canoeing & Kayaking
The Tully and North Johnstone Rivers be-
tween Townsville and Cairns are the big
ones for white-water rafting. You can do
four-day rafting trips on the North John-
stone from about $1400, and day trips from
$155 on the Tully, including transfers.
Kayaking and canoeing are also popu-
lar activities in Queensland: operators run
paddling expeditions along inland water-
ways and lakes, and out through the pro-
tected Barrier Reef waters – sometimes
from the mainland to offshore islands.
There are also plenty of companies that
operate guided tours around the Gold and
Sunshine Coasts.
Wine Regions
Huh? Wineries in Queensland? Still under
the radar in most parts of Australia (and
virtually unknown abroad), the Granite
Belt Wine Country, a few hours south-
28 1
WHAT YOU’LL SEE
Lovely coastline, dolphins, sea turtles,
rays, snorkelling sites
High-backed dunes, wildflowers, man-
groves, rainforests
Day and multi-day trips taking in South
Molle Island and Whitehaven Beach,
coral reefs, dolphins, turtles, sea eagles
Sea-kayak tours with dolphins and
turtles; Noosa River kayaking
Exploring picturesque island bays
Day paddles to and around Dunk Island,
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef To
multi-day trips to
Hinchinbrook Island
west of Brisbane, has slowly been carving a
name for itself. Cooler than coastal Queens-
land owing to its higher elevation (topping
out at 954m), the area attracted Sicilian
immigrants in the 1800s who planted the
first vines. Gateway town Stanthorpe now
sustains 50-plus boutique wineries, which
produce an impressive range of varietals.
Grapes from Italy, South Africa, Portugal,
Spain and France all do well here. Online,
see www.granitebeltwinecountry.com.au.
T Tours
Specialised tours abound in Queensland.
Most are connected with a particular activ-
 urs
ity (eg bushwalking, horse riding) or area
(eg Great Barrier Reef, 4WD tours to Cape
York).
There are dozens of tours (mostly from
Cairns and Port Douglas) out to the Great
Barrier Reef. You can fly in a seaplane out to
a deserted coral cay, take a fast catamaran
to the outer reef and spend the day snorkel-
ling, join a live-aboard dive boat to explore
remote sections of the reef, or take a day trip
to snorkel coral gardens and bask on pretty
islands.
In Far North Queensland you can take the
Kuranda Scenic Railway up to the Kuranda
markets, tour the Atherton Tableland, visit
Cape Tribulation on a 4WD tour, cruise
along the Daintree River, go white-water
rafting, and visit Aboriginal rock-art galler-
ies in Cape York.
282
From the Gold Coast there are tours to
Lamington and Springbrook National Parks,
and numerous tours run out of Brisbane to
the Sunshine and Gold Coasts, and the is-
lands of Moreton Bay.
See regional sections for listings.
Seasonal Work
There’s seasonal fruit- and vegetable-picking
work aplenty around Stanthorpe, Childers,
Bundaberg and even Cairns. During harvest
times these towns attract backpackers by
the bucket load, hoping to pick tomatoes in
exchange for a bit of cash. Stanthorpe and
Childers are basically one-traffic-light vil-
lages with little to do as far as nightlife goes:
if you’re only here to work, no problem, but
if you’re also looking for a bit of atmosphere,
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B r i sban e
it’s probably best to head to Bundaberg.
Most backpackers are usually hooked up
with farm work directly through youth hos-
tels, which also provide transport to and from
the harvest site. This is a major plus, as there
is no public transport to the farms. Being con-
nected to a hostel can also be helpful if you
end up having a problem with your farm boss.
88 Information
For comprehensive info about the state, get a
hold of Lonely Planet’s Queensland & the Great
Barrier Reef guidebook. Queensland Holidays
(www.queenslandholidays.com.au) is the official
Queensland Tourism site – great for trip planning.
There are also official tourist offices in most major
Queensland towns. Other useful resources:
Sunlover Holidays (www.sunloverholidays.
com) Accommodation and tour bookings.
Queensland Department of National Parks,
Recreation, Sport & Racing (NPRSR; www.
nprsr.qld.gov.au)
Royal Automobile Club of Queensland
(RACQ; www.racq.com.au)
88 Getting There & Around
Brisbane is the main port of call for flights into
Queensland and is the main international airport
for the state, but Cairns and Gold Coast (Coolan-
gatta) airports also handle international flights.
AIR
Within Australia, the big national carriers – Qan-
tas (www.qantas.com.au), Jetstar (www.jetstar.
com.au) and Virgin Australia (www.virginaus-
tralia.com) – fly to Queensland’s major cities.
Tiger Airways (www.tigerairways.com) con-
nects Melbourne and Sydney with Brisbane,
Cairns, Mackay and the Gold Coast (Coolangat-
ta), and runs Maroochydore–Melbourne flights.
There are also smaller airlines, including
charter flights, operating up and down the coast,
across the Cape York Peninsula and into the
outback. Skytrans (www.skytrans.com.au) and
Regional Express (REX; www.rex.com.au) serve
select towns in northern Queensland.
BUS
Greyhound Australia (www.greyhound.com.
au) The largest bus company in Australia, with
extensive coverage of Queensland and beyond.
For extensive bus travel, Greyhound has vari-
ous travel passes to save money.
Premier Motor Service (www.premierms.com.
au) Covers the route between Melbourne, Syd-
ney, Brisbane and Cairns, with fewer services
than Greyhound but often cheaper fares.
CAR
The roads in Queensland are in good condition,
particularly along the coastal highways and main
thoroughfares in the hinterland and outback.
However, they can often turn into badly main-
tained sealed roads or dirt tracks in the more
remote areas of the state. Traffic between Bris-
bane and the Gold Coast can be hellish: avoid
Friday and Sunday evenings. Brisbane generally
has the cheapest car-hire rates.
TRAIN
Queensland Rail (www.queenslandrail.com.
au) operates numerous services throughout
Queensland. The main railway line is the Bris-
bane to Cairns run, which is serviced by the Tilt
Train, a high-speed connection that operates
three times weekly, and the Sunlander, a more
leisurely option with three services weekly.
There are also inland services from Brisbane to
Charleville, Brisbane to Longreach, and from
Townsville to Mt Isa, plus a more regular Tilt
Train service between Brisbane and Rockhamp-
ton. Brisbane to Sydney services are run by the
NSW-based CountryLink (p1091).
BRISBANE
POP 2.15 MILLION
Australia’s most underrated city? Booming
Brisbane is an energetic river town on the
way up, with an edgy arts scene, pumping
nightlife and great coffee and restaurants.
Plush parks and historic buildings complete
the picture, all folded into the elbows of the
meandering Brisbane River.
Brisbanites are out on the streets: the
weather is brilliant and so are the bodies.
Fit-looking locals get up early to go jogging,
swimming, cycling, kayaking, rock climbing
or just walk the dog. But it’s not all super-
ficial: subcultural undercurrents run deep

here too, with cool bookshops, globally in-
spired restaurants, cafes, bars and band
rooms aplenty.
But perhaps it’s the Brisbane River itself –
which broke so many hearts when it flooded
in 2011 and 2013 – that gives Brisbane its
edge. The river’s organic convolutions carve
the city into a patchwork of urban villages,
each with a distinct style and topography:
bohemian, low-lying West End; hip, hill-
top Paddington; exclusive, peninsular New
Farm; prim, pointy Kangaroo Point. Move
from village to village and experience this
diverse, eccentric, happening capital.
History
Pre-colonial Aboriginal inhabitants knew
this area as Mian-jin, meaning ‘place shaped
like a spike’. The first white settlement here
was established at Redcliffe on Moreton Bay
in 1824 – a penal colony for difficult convicts
from the Botany Bay colony in NSW. After
struggling with inadequate water supplies
and hostile Aboriginal groups, the colony
was relocated to safer territory on the banks
of the Brisbane River, before the whole con-
vict colony idea was abandoned in 1839.
Moreton Bay was opened to free settlers
in 1842. This marked the beginning of Bris-
bane’s rise to prominence and the beginning
of the end for the region’s Aboriginal peoples.
1 Sights
1 City Centre
Commissariat Store Museum MUSEUM
(Map p288; www.queenslandhistory.org; 115 William
St; adult/child/family $5/3/10; h 10am-4pm Tue-
Fri) Built by convicts in 1829, this former gov-
ernment storehouse is the oldest occupied
building in Brisbane. Inside is an immacu-
late little museum devoted to convict and co-
lonial history. Don’t miss the convict ‘fingers’
and the exhibit on Italians in Queensland.
Roma Street Parkland PARK
(Map p288; www.romastreetparkland.com; 1
Parkland Blvd; h 24hr) F This beautifully
maintained, 16-hectare downtown park is
one of the world’s largest subtropical urban
gardens. Formerly a market and a railway
yard, the park opened in 2001 and features
native trees, a lake, lookouts, waterfalls, a
playground, BBQs and many a frangipani.
It’s something of a maze: easy to get into,
hard to get out.
28 3
QUT Art Museum MUSEUM
(Map p288; www.artmuseum.qut.edu.au; 2 George
St; h 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, noon-4pm Sat & Sun)
F On the Queensland University of Tech-
nology campus is this excellent little muse-
um, displaying regularly changing exhibits
of contemporary Australian art and works
by Brisbane art students.
City Botanic Gardens PARK
(Map p288; www.brisbane.qld.gov.au; Alice St;
h 24hr) F On the river, Brisbane’s favour-
ite green space is a mass of lawns, tangled
Moreton Bay figs, bunya pines and mac-
adamia trees descending gently from the
Queensland University of Technology cam-
pus. Free guided tours leave the rotunda at
11am and 1pm Monday to Saturday.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B r i sban e
Old Government House HISTORIC BUILDING
(Map p288; www.ogh.qut.edu.au; George St;
h10am-4pm Sun-Fri) F This 1862 gem
was designed by estimable government ar-
chitect Charles Tiffin as an appropriately
plush residence for Sir George Bowen,
Queensland’s first governor. Tour the lav-
ish innards (restored in 2009), and check
out some William Robinson landscapes in
the gallery upstairs.
Parliament House HISTORIC BUILDING
(Map p288; www.parliament.qld.gov.au; cnr Alice &
George Sts; h tours 1pm, 2pm, 3pm & 4pm non-sitting
days) F This lovely blanched-white stone
French Renaissance–style building dates from
1868 and is one of Brisbane’s treasured histor-
ical landmarks. Free tours leave on demand
(2pm only when parliament is sitting).
City Hall HISTORIC BUILDING
(Map p288; www.brisbane.qld.gov.au; btwn Ann &
Adelaide Sts) Overlooking King George Sq,
this fine 1930s sandstone edifice is fronted
by a row of sequoia-sized corinthian col-
umns and has an 85m-high clocktower.
Bells peal out across city rooftops every
hour. By the time you read this a three-year
renovation should be complete: see if the
observation platform and Museum of
Brisbane (Map p288; www.museumofbrisbane.
com.au) are open yet.
Treasury Building HISTORIC BUILDING
(Map p288; www.treasurybrisbane.com.au; cnr
Queen & William Sts; h 24hr) F At the west-
ern end of the Queen St Mall is the mag-
nificent Italian Renaissance–style Treasury
Building, dating from 1889. No tax collectors
inside – just Brisbane’s casino.
28 4

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286
Greater Brisbane
æ Top Sights
1 Brisbane Powerhouse........................ H4
æ Sights
2 New Farm Park ................................... H4
3 Newstead House .................................G2
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
4 Spring Hill Baths .................................. F3
ÿ Sleeping
5 Newmarket Gardens Caravan
Park.................................................... D1
6 Spring Hill Terraces............................. F3
ú Eating
7 Caravanserai........................................ E5
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B r i sban e
8 Mondo Organics .................................. E5
Watt ............................................... (see 1)
û Drinking & Nightlife
Alto Bar.......................................... (see 1)
9 Breakfast Creek Hotel......................... G1
10 Canvas..................................................G5
ý Entertainment
Brisbane Powerhouse.................. (see 1)
11 Gabba ...................................................G5
12 Moonlight Cinema .............................. H4
þ Shopping
Jan Power's Farmers Market....... (see 1)
Opposite the casino fronting a grassy
plaza stands the equally gorgeous former
Land Administration Building, which has
been converted into a five-star hotel called
Treasury.
1 South Bank
On South Bank, just over Victoria Bridge
from the CBD, the Queensland Cultural
Centre is the epicentre of Brisbane’s cultur-
al life. It’s a huge compound that includes
concert and theatre venues, four museums
and the Queensland State Library.
oGallery of Modern Art ART GALLERY
(GOMA; Map p288; www.qagoma.qld.gov.au;
Stanley Pl; h 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat &
Sun) F All angular glass, concrete and
black metal, must-see GOMA focuses on
Austra­lian art from the 1970s to today. Con-
tinually changing and often confronting,
exhibits range from painting, sculpture and
photography to video, installation and film.
There’s also an arty bookshop here, kids ac-
tivity rooms, a cafe and free guided tours at
11am and 1pm.
oSouth Bank Parklands PARK
(Map p288; www.visitsouthbank.com.au; Russell
St; h dawn-dusk) F This beautiful smear
of green, technically on the western side of
the Brisbane River, is home to performance
spaces, sculptures, buskers, eateries, bars,
pockets of rainforest, BBQ areas, hidden
lawns and bougainvillea-draped pergolas.
The big-ticket attractions here are Streets
Beach (p291), a kitsch artificial swimming
beach resembling a tropical lagoon; and the
London Eye–style Wheel of Brisbane (Map
p288; www.thewheelofbrisbane.com.au; Russell
St; adult/child/family $15/10/42; h 11am-9.30pm
Mon-Thu, 10am-11pm Fri & Sat, 10am-10pm Sun),
which offers 360-degree views from its 60m
heights. Rides last around 10 minutes and
include audio commentary (and air-con!).
Queensland Museum &
Sciencentre MUSEUM
(Map p288; www.southbank.qm.qld.gov.au; cnr Grey
& Melbourne Sts; museum free, Sciencentre adult/
child/family $13/10/40; h 9.30am-5pm) Queens-
land’s history is given the once-over here,
with interesting exhibits including a skele-
ton of the state’s own dinosaur Muttaburra-
saurus (aka ‘Mutt’), and the Avian Cirrus,
the tiny plane in which Queenslander Bert
Hinkler made the first England-to-Australia
solo flight in 1928. Have a snack to a whale
soundtrack in the outdoor ‘Whale Mall’.
Also here is the Sciencentre, an educa-
tional fun house with over 100 hands-on, in-
teractive exhibits that delve into life science
and technology. Expect long queues during
school holidays.
Queensland Art Gallery ART GALLERY
(QAG; Map p288; www.qagoma.qld.gov.au; Mel-
bourne St; h 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat
& Sun) F Duck into the QAG to see the
fine permanent collection. Australian art
dates from the 1840s to the 1970s: check
out works by celebrated masters including
Sir Sydney Nolan, Arthur Boyd, William
Dobell and George Lambert. Free guided
tours at 1pm.
Queensland Centre for ¨
Photography ART GALLERY
(Map p288; www.qcp.org.au; cnr Russell & Cordelia
Sts, West End; h 10am-5pm Wed-Sat, 11am-3pm
Sun) F Beat the street heat with a detour
into this cool little gallery just behind South
Bank. It’s an artist-run affair, showing about

10 Australian contemporary photography
exhibitions per year.
Queensland Maritime Museum MUSEUM
(Map p288; www.maritimemuseum.com.au; Stanley
St; adult/child/family $12/6/28; h 9.30am-
4.30pm) On the southern edge of the South
Bank Parklands is this quaint old museum,
the highlight of which is the gigantic HMAS
Diamantina, a restored WWII frigate that
you can clamber aboard and explore.
1 Fortitude Valley &
New Farm
oBrisbane Powerhouse ARTS CENTRE
(Map p284; www.brisbanepowerhouse.org; 119
287
Thu) F In the Judith Wright Centre of
Contemporary Arts, this excellent noncom-
mercial gallery with an industrial vibe has
regular showings by local names. With
risqué, emerging and experimental art for
grown-ups, it’s GOMA’s naughty little cousin.
Chinatown NEIGHBOURHOOD
(Map p292; Duncan St) Brisbane’s Chinatown
occupies only one street, but is just as flam-
boyant and flavour-filled as its Sydney and
Melbourne counterparts. Glazed flat ducks
hang behind steamy windows; aromas of
Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese, Laotian and
Japanese cooking fill the air. There are free
outdoor movies during summer, and it goes
nuts over Chinese New Year in February.

Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B r i sban e

Lamington St; h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat
& Sun) On the eastern flank of New Farm Park
stands the Powerhouse, a once-derelict power
1 Greater Brisbane
station that’s been transformed into a con- Mt Coot-tha Reserve NATURE RESERVE

temporary arts centre. Inside the brick husk
are graffiti remnants, old industrial machin-
ery and randomly placed headphones offer-
ing sonic sound-grabs. The Powerhouse hosts
a range of performances (many free), and has
two restaurants with killer river views.
Institute of Modern Art ART GALLERY
(IMA; Map p292; www.ima.org.au; 420 Brunswick
St, Fortitude Valley; h 11am-5pm Tue-Sat, to 8pm
(Map 284; www.brisbane.qld.gov.au; Mt Coot-tha
Rd, Mt Coot-tha; h 24hr) F A 15-minute
drive or bus ride from the city, this huge
bush reserve is topped by 287m Mt Coot-
tha (more of a hill, really). On the hillsides
you’ll find a botanic garden, planetarium
and the eye-popping Mt Coot-tha Lookout
(www.brisbanelookout.com; 1012 Sir Samuel Griffith
Dr; h 24hr) F. On a clear day you can see

BRISBANE FOR CHILDREN

From toddlers to teenagers, there’s no shortage of places to keep kids busy (and par-
ents happy) in Brisbane.
Start with the city’s leafy inner-city parks: South Bank Parklands (p286) has lawns,
BBQs, playgrounds and the slow-spinning Wheel of Brisbane (p286) – a real mind-blower
for anyone under 15. The lifeguard-patrolled Streets Beach (p291) is here too, with a shal-
low section for really small swimmers. New Farm Park is a beaut spot by the river, with
a series of treehouse-like platforms interlinking huge (and shady) Moreton Bay fig trees.
Too humid for the park? Head for the air-con at the Queensland Cultural Cen-
tre on South Bank. Here the Queensland Museum (p286) runs some fab, hands-on
programs for little tackers during school holidays. The incorporated Sciencentre has
plenty of push-this-button-and-see-what-happens action. The Queensland Art Gallery
(p286) has a Children’s Art Centre which runs regular programs throughout the year, as
does the State Library of Queensland (p309) and the Gallery of Modern Art (p286).
C!RCA (Map p292; % 07-3852 3110; www.circa.org.au; L3, 420 Brunswick St, Fortitude Val-
ley) offers action-packed ‘circus classes’ (tumbling, balancing, jumping, trapeze work)
for budding young carnies at the Judith Wright Centre in Fortitude Valley.
The river is a big plus. Take a ferry ride around the bends of central Brisbane, or chug
further afield to the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary (p289), where they can cuddle up to a
critter. If you’re heading out Mt Coot-tha way, check out a show at the Sir Thomas Bris-
bane Planetarium (p289).
Day-care or babysitting options include Dial an Angel (% 1300 721 111, 07-3878 1077;
www.dialanangel.com) and Care4Kidz (% 07-3103 0298; www.careforkidz.com.au).
 6
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the Moreton Bay islands. There’s a cafe and
E F flashy restaurant at the lookout too.
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St

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arid zones... You’ll feel like you’re travers-
Adela ing the globe in all its vegetated splendour!

66
There are free guided walks at 11am and
Creek S

Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B r i sban e

S t
Queen 1pm Monday and Saturday, and free minibus
tours at 10.45am Monday to Thursday.
t

Holman
Also in the gardens, Sir Thomas Bris-
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# times and admission costs.
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arf To get here via public transport, take bus
St a n St
48 #
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R
King George Sq ($4.80, 25 minutes). The bus
n S wy St

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25 St ha m stops outside the Brisbane Botanic Gardens

66
Thornton St f
M

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en route.
f
ad

Newstead House
Br

HISTORIC BUILDING
(Map p284; www.newsteadhouse.com.au; cnr
Breakfast Creek Rd & Newstead Ave, Newstead;

66
5
adult/child/family $6/4/15; h 10am-4pm Mon-Thu,
2-5pm Sun) On a breezy hill overlooking the
Ca
nel

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f river, Brisbane’s oldest house dates from
20 t
Tun

Dockside 1846 and is beautifully fitted out with Victo-

&
¬
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KANGAROO rian furnishings, antiques, clothing and pe-
ss

66
POINT riod displays. It’s a modest, peach-coloured
pa
By

L-shaped affair, surrounded by manicured

th

lawns with lovely river views. Wedding pho-

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tographers do their best to avoid the big

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66
brick electrical substation in the gardens.
r th

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Free Sunday afternoon concerts.
No

ars
on
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Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary NATURE RESERVE
Sha

(% 07-3378 1366; www.koala.net; 708 Jesmond

fsto

Rd, Fig Tree Pocket; adult/child/family $33/22/80;

6
Be
ll St h 9am-5pm) About 12km south of the city
n

centre, Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary occu-

Ave

7
pies a patch of parkland beside the river. It’s
home to 130 or so koalas, plus kangaroos,
possums, wombats, birds and other Aussie
E F
290
Central Brisbane, Kangaroo Point & South Bank
æ Top Sights
1 Gallery of Modern Art............................ B2
2 South Bank Parklands........................... B4
æ Sights
3 City Botanic Gardens ............................ D5
4 City Hall .................................................. C2
5 Commissariat Store Museum .............. C4
Museum of Brisbane ...................... (see 4)
6 Old Government House ........................ C5
7 Parliament House.................................. C5
8 Queensland Art Gallery......................... B3
9 Queensland Centre for
Photography ....................................... A4
10 Queensland Maritime Museum............ B6
11 Queensland Museum &
Sciencentre......................................... A3
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B r i sban e
12 QUT Art Museum................................... C5
13 Roma Street Parkland............................C1
14 Treasury Building .................................. C3
15 Wheel of Brisbane ................................. B4
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
Brisbane Greeters ........................(see 64)
16 CitySights............................................... D3
17 Kookaburra River Queens......................E4
18 Planet Inline ........................................... C6
19 River City Cruises .................................. B4
20 Riverlife Adventure Centre ....................E5
21 Story Bridge Adventure Climb ..............F4
22 Streets Beach ........................................ B5
ÿ Sleeping
23 Dahrl Court.............................................. F1
24 Diamant Hotel.........................................D1
25 Il Mondo...................................................F4
26 Inchcolm Hotel........................................E2
27 Kookaburra Inn ....................................... E1
28 M on Mary .............................................. D4
29 Queensland Motel ................................. D7
30 Riverside Hotel....................................... A2
31 Stamford Plaza Brisbane...................... D4
32 Treasury ................................................. C4
33 Urban Brisbane.......................................C1
34 X-Base Brisbane Central....................... D2
35 X-Base Brisbane Embassy ................... D3
36 X-Base Brisbane Uptown...................... C2
ú Eating
37 Ahmet's .................................................. B4
38 Bleeding Heart Gallery .......................... D2
critters. The koalas are undeniably cute –
most visitors readily cough up the $16 to
have their picture snapped hugging one.
There are animal presentations scheduled
throughout the day.
To get here catch bus 430 ($6.70, 45 min-
utes) from the Queen St bus station. Alter-
39 Brew ........................................................D3
Cha Cha Char ................................ (see 17)
40 Cliffs Cafe............................................... D6
41 E'cco........................................................ F2
42 Java Coast Cafe......................................C2
43 Merlo Coffee ...........................................D4
44 Piaf ..........................................................B5
45 Stokehouse.............................................B6
û Drinking & Nightlife
46 Belgian Beer Cafe...................................D4
47 Laneway..................................................D4
48 Story Bridge Hotel ................................. F4
49 Super Whatnot .......................................C3
ý Entertainment
50 Ben & Jerry's Openair
Cinemas ...............................................B4
51 Brisbane Jazz Club ................................ F3
52 Event Cinemas .......................................C3
53 Queensland Conservatorium ................B4
54 Queensland Performing Arts
Centre ..................................................B3
55 QUT Gardens Theatre............................C5
56 Riverstage...............................................C6
57 South Bank Cinema ...............................A5
58 Ticketek ..................................................C3
þ Shopping
59 Archives Fine Books...............................C3
60 Record Exchange ...................................C3
61 South Bank Lifestyle
Markets ................................................B5
62 Title..........................................................A4
63 World Wide Maps & Globes...................D2
ï Information
64 Brisbane Visitor Information
Centre ..................................................D3
65 Department of National
Parks, Recreation, Sport
& Racing...............................................C2
66 RACQ.......................................................D3
67 South Bank Visitor
Information Centre .............................B5
ï Transport
68 Brisbane Transit Centre ........................ C1
69 King George Sq Bus Station..................C3
70 Queen St Bus Station ............................C3
natively, Mirimar II (% 0412 749 426; www.
mirimar.com; incl park entry per adult/child/family
$65/38/190) cruises to the sanctuary along
the Brisbane River, departing from the Cul-
tural Centre Pontoon on South Bank next to
Victoria Bridge. It departs daily at 10am, re-
turning from Lone Pine at 1.45pm.

2 Activities
Pick up the self-guided Brisbane City Walk
brochure from info centres, which takes
you through Roma St Parkland, South Bank
Parklands and the City Botanic Gardens.
Swimming
Streets Beach SWIMMING
(Map p288; www.visitsouthbank.com.au; South
Bank; h daylight hours) F A central spot
for a quick (and free) dip is the man-made,
riverside Streets Beach at South Bank. Life-
guards, hollering kids, beach babes, strutting
gym-junkies, ice-cream carts – it’s all here.
Spring Hill Baths SWIMMING
(Map p284; www.bluefitbrisbane.com.au; 14
Torrington St, Spring Hill; adult/child/fam-
291
5pm Mon, 9am-6pm Tue-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat) Friend-
ly community shop with a great range of
recycled city bikes with reconditioned parts.
Gardens Cycle Hire BICYCLE RENTAL
(% 0408 003 198; www.brisbanebicyclehire.com;
hire per day/week $40/90) Bikes delivered to
your door.
CityCycle BICYCLE RENTAL
(% 1300 229 253; www.citycycle.com.au; hire per
hour/day $2.20/165; h hire 5am-10pm, return
24hr) To use Brisbane’s bike-share program,
subscribe via the website (per day/week/
three months $2/11/27.50), then can hire a
bike (additional fee) from any of the 100-
plus stations around central Brisbane. Good
for short hops; pricey by the day. BYO hel-
met and lock.

Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B r i sban e

ily $4.90/3.50/14.90; h 6.30am-7pm Mon-Thu,
6.30am-6pm Fri, 8am-5pm Sat & Sun) Opened in
1886, this quaint old 25m pool is encircled
by cute timber change rooms.
Valley Pool SWIMMING
(Map p292; www.valleypool.com.au; 432 Wick-
ham St, Fortitude Valley; adult/child/fam-
ily $4.90/3.50/10.30; h 5.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri,
7.30am-6pm Sat & Sun) Big clean outdoor pool,
popular with glam types (of all persuasions).
Cycling
Brisbane has over 900km of bike trails, in-
cluding routes along the Brisbane River.
Check out the city website (www.brisbane.
qld.gov.au) for maps and info. See also Riv-
erlife Adventure Centre (p291) for bike hire.
Bicycle Revolution BICYCLE RENTAL
(Map p298; www.bicyclerevolution.org.au; 294 Mon-
tague Rd, West End; per day/week $35/100; h 9am-
Climbing & Abseiling
Story Bridge ¨
Adventure Climb BRIDGE CLIMBING
(Map p288; % 1300 254 627; www.sbac.net.au; 170
Main St, Kangaroo Point; adult/child from $99/85)
A Brisbane must-do, the bridge climb offers
unbeatable views of the city – either dawn,
day, twilight or night. The 2½-hour climb
scales the southern half of the bridge, taking
you 80m above the twisting, muddy Bris-
bane River below. Minimum age 10. Bridge
abseiling expeditions are also available.
Riverlife Adventure Centre ROCK CLIMBING
(Map p288; % 07-3891 5766; www.riverlife.com.au;
Naval Stores, Kangaroo Point Bikeway, Kangaroo
Point; h 9am-5pm) Near the 20m Kangaroo
Point cliffs, Riverlife runs rock-climbing
sessions (from $49) and abseiling exploits
($39). They also offer kayaking river trips

D’AGUILAR RANGE NATIONAL PARK

Suburban malaise? Slake your wilderness cravings at the 50,000-hectare D’Aguilar
Range National Park (www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/daguilar; Mount Nebo Rd, The Gap), just
10km northwest of the city centre but worlds away. There are walking trails ranging
from a few hundred metres to 13km, including the 6km Morelia Track at Manorina day-
use area and the 4.3km Greene’s Falls Track at Mt Glorious. Mountain biking is also an
option. You can camp in the park too, in remote, walk-in bush campsites (% 13 74 68;
www.qld.gov.au/camping; per person $5.45).
At the park entrance the Walkabout Creek Visitor Information Centre (% 07-
3512 2300; www.nprsr.qld.gov.au; 60 Mt Nebo Rd, The Gap; wildlife centre adult/child/family
$6.40/4.35/16; h 9am-4.30pm) has maps of the park. Also here is the South East Queensland
Wildlife Centre where you can see a resident platypus up close, plus turtles, lizards, pythons
and gliders. There’s also a small but wonderful walk-through aviary, and a cafe.
To get here catch bus 385 ($6.70, 30 minutes) from Roma St Station to the visitor
information centre; the last bus back to the city is at 4.48pm (3.53pm on weekends).
292

Fortitude Valley & New Farm e

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A B C D

Fortitude Valley & New Farm
æ Sights
1 Chinatown .............................................. A2
Institute of Modern Art.................(see 26)
2 Valley Walk of Fame .............................. B2
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
C!RCA ............................................(see 26)
3 Valley Pool...............................................C1
ÿ Sleeping
4 Allender Apartments............................. C7
5 Bowen Terrace ...................................... B6
6 Bunk Backpackers ................................ A2
7 Central Brunswick Apartments............ B3
8 Limes .......................................................B1
ú Eating
9 Burger Urge ........................................... B4
10 Cafe Bouquiniste ................................... D7
11 Café Cirque ............................................ C5
12 Flamingo................................................. B2
13 Himalayan Cafe ..................................... C5
14 James Street Market............................. D2
15 Kuan Yin Tea House .............................. A2
16 Ortiga...................................................... B3
(from $39) and hire out bikes (per four
hours $30), kayaks (per two hours $33) and
in-line skates (per four hours $40).
Urban Climb ROCK CLIMBING, ABSEILING
(Map p298; % 07-3844 2544; www.urbanclimb.
com; 2/220 Montague Rd, West End; adult/child
$18/16; h noon-10pm Mon-Thu, noon-9pm Fri,
10am-6pm Sat & Sun) A large indoor climbing
wall with 200-plus routes.
In-line Skating
You can hire skates and equipment from
Riverlife Adventure Centre (p291).
Planet Inline SKATING
(Map p288; % 07-3217 3571; www.planetinline.com;
Goodwill Bridge; tours $15) Runs skate tours
through the CBD, starting at 7.15pm Wednes-
days from the top of the Goodwill Bridge. It
also runs a Saturday-morning breakfast-club
tour. Call in advance or book online.
Skydiving & Ballooning
Jump the Beach Brisbane SKYDIVING
(% 1800 800 840; www.jumpthebeachbrisbane.
com.au; skydives from $344) Picks up from the
CBD and offers tandem skydives over Bris-
bane, landing on the sand in Redcliffe.
Fly Me to the Moon BALLOONING
(% 07-3423 0400; www.brisbanehotairballooning.
com.au; per person $299) One-hour hot-air bal-
293
17 Spoon Deli Cafe......................................C2
18 The Vietnamese .....................................A2
û Drinking & Nightlife
19 Alfred & Constance................................ B1
20 Bowery ....................................................B2
Cru Bar & Cellar............................. (see 17)
21 La Ruche .................................................B2
22 Press Club...............................................B2
ý Entertainment
23 Alloneword.............................................. A1
24 Beat MegaClub.......................................B2
Birdees............................................ (see 6)
25 Cloudland................................................B2
26 Judith Wright Centre of
Contemporary Arts.............................B3
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B r i sban e
27 Oh Hello...................................................A3
28 Palace Centro .........................................C3
29 Wickham Hotel ....................................... B1
30 Zoo ..........................................................B2
þ Shopping
Blonde Venus ...............................(see 30)
loon trips over Brisbane. Pick-up and break-
fast included.
T Tours
CityCat FERRY RIDES
(% 13 12 30; www.translink.com.au; one-way $5.60;
h 5.25am-11.50pm) Ditching the car or bus
and catching a sleek CityCat ferry along the
river is the Brisbane sightseeing journey of
choice! Stand on an open-air deck and glide
under the Story Bridge to South Bank and
the city centre. Ferries run every 15 to 30
minutes between the University of Queens-
land in the southwest to Apollo Rd terminal
north of the city, stopping at 14 terminals in
between, including New Farm Park, North
Quay (for the CBD), South Bank and West
End.
XXXX Brewery Tour TOUR
(Map p298; % 07-3361 7597; www.xxxxbrewerytour.
com.au; cnr Black & Paten Sts, Milton; adult/child
$25/16; h hourly 11am-4pm Mon-Fri, 12.30pm, 1pm
& 1.30pm Sat, 11am, noon & 12.30pm Sun) Feel a
XXXX coming on? Grown-up entry to this
brewery tour includes a few humidity beating
ales, so leave the car at home. Also on offer
are beer-and-barbecue tours on Wednesday
nights and Saturday during the day (adult/
child $38/29), which include lunch. Book all
tours in advance, online or by phone. There’s
 66
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CBD & South Bank Circuit
At the corner of Edward and Alice Sts, de-
START CENTRAL STATION
tour through the 7City Botanic Gardens
FINISH KING GEORGE SQ
DISTANCE 5KM; TWO HOURS
(p283). Cast an eye across the river to the
Kangaroo Point cliffs, then skirt around the
Bru
To

Cross Ann St south of Central Station to the back of the Brisbane Riverstage to the pedes-
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trian-only 8Goodwill Bridge: check out

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sobering 1Shrine of Remembrance above

the northern edge of 2Anzac Square, with HMAS Diamantina in the Queensland Mari-
its bulbous boab trees and wandering ibises. time Museum to your left. From here, jag north
At the southern side of the square, scale into the 9South Bank Parklands (p286).
one of the pedestrian bridges over Adelaide If time is on your side, duck into the out-
St, which lead to the elevated, manicured standing aGallery of Modern Art (p286).
Otherwise, cross Victoria Bridge back into
3Post Office Square. The square is
fronted at its southern end by Brisbane’s central Brisbane. Just south of the gorgeous
stately stone 4GPO. Take the alley between bTreasury Building (p283) on William St,
the wings of the post office through to Eliza- an unnamed alley cuts through to George
beth St. Cross the road and stick your head St. Dogleg across George into Charlotte St,
into beautiful white-stone 5St Stephen’s continue along Charlotte then turn left into
Cathedral. Albert St in Brisbane’s modern CBD.
Walk through the grassy courtyard behind Continue along Albert St, cross cQueen
the cathedral until Charlotte St. Take a left, Street Mall – trashy and trad shopping in
cross Eagle St and duck through 6Eagle equal measure – and then Adelaide St into
St Pier on the river. Check the Story Bridge King George Sq, with dCity Hall (p283)
views to your left, then go down the steps to anchoring the southwest side. After taking in
the riverside boardwalk and truck south. the scene, backtrack to the mall for a much-
deserved pick-me-up.

also an alehouse here if you feel like kicking
on. The brewery is a 20-minute walk west
from Roma St Station, or take the train to
Milton Station. Wear enclosed shoes.
CitySights GUIDED TOUR
(Map p288; www.citysights.com.au; day tickets per
adult/child/family $35/20/80; h 9am-3.45pm)
This hop-on-hop-off shuttle bus wheels past
19 of Brisbane’s major landmarks, including
the CBD, Mt Coot-tha, Chinatown, South
Bank and Story Bridge. Tours depart every
45 minutes from Post Office Sq on Queen St.
The same ticket covers you for unlimited use
of CityCat ferry services.
Brisbane Greeters GUIDED TOUR
(Map p288; % 07-3006 6290; www.brisbanegreet-
ers.com.au; Brisbane Visitor Information Centre,
Queen St Mall; h 10am) F Small-group,
hand-held introductory tours of Brizzy with
affable volunteers. Tours are themed: public
art on Monday, Queenslander architecture
on Tuesday, churches on Wednesday, the riv-
er on Sunday etc. Call to see what’s running,
or to customise a tour. Bookings essential.
Brisbane Lights Tours GUIDED TOUR
(% 07-3822 6028; www.brisbanelightstours.com;
adult/child from $65/30) Three-hour noctur-
nal tours departing at 6.30pm nightly (hotel
pick-ups included), covering a dozen city
landmarks, with dinner (or a snack) at Mt
Coot-tha Lookout and a 20-minute CityCat
cruise.
River City Cruises CRUISE
(Map p288; % 0428 278 473; www.rivercitycruises.
com.au; South Bank Parklands Jetty A; adult/child/
family $25/15/60) River City runs 1½-hour
cruises with commentary from South Bank
to New Farm and back. They depart from
South Bank at 10.30am and 12.30pm (plus
2.30pm during summer).
Kookaburra River Queens CRUISE
(Map p288; % 07-3221 1300; www.kookaburrariver-
queens.com; Eagle St Pier; lunch/dinner cruises per
person from $42/79) Chug up and down the
river in a wooden paddle steamer. Meals are
three-course seafood and carvery buffet af-
fairs; there’s live jazz on the Sunday lunch
cruise.
z Festivals & Events
Brisbane International TENNIS
Pro ten-
(www.brisbaneinternational.com.au)
nis tournament attracting the world’s best,
held in January at the Queensland Tennis
295
Centre just prior to the Australian Open (in
Melbourne).
Chinese New Year CULTURAL EVENT
(www.chinesenewyear.com.au) Held in Fortitude
Valley’s Chinatown Mall (Duncan St) in Feb-
ruary. Firecrackers, dancing dragons and
fantastic food.
Brisbane Comedy Festival COMEDY
(www.briscomfest.com) Four-week festival in
March featuring local and international
laugh-mongers at the Brisbane Powerhouse.
Urban Country Festival MUSIC
(www.urbancountry.com.au) Four-day country-
music fest in May with up to 500 guitar
twangers and nasally bards. Held 45 min-
utes north of Brisbane in Caboolture (where
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B r i sban e
Keith Urban grew up...which has nothing to
do with the festival name!).
Brisbane Winter Carnival HORSE RACING
(www.horseracinginfo.com.au) The state’s major
horse-racing carnival, held in May and June.
The biggest day is the Stradbroke Handicap
in early June.
Out of the Box ARTS
(www.outoftheboxfestival.com.au) Six-day bien-
nial festival of performing and visual arts for
kids, with lots of interactive and free events.
Held in June in even-numbered years.
Brisbane International Film Festival FILM
(www.biff.com.au) Twelve days of quality films
flicker across Brisbane screens in July.
Queensland Music Festival MUSIC
(QMF; www.queenslandmusicfestival.org.au) State-
wide festival with styles ranging from classical
to contemporary, held over two weeks in July
in odd-numbered years. Most events are free.
‘Ekka’ Royal Queensland Show AGRICULTURE
(www.ekka.com.au) Country and city collide in
August for Queensland’s largest annual event,
the Ekka (formerly the Brisbane Exhibition,
which was shortened to ‘Ekka’). Baby animals,
showbags, spooky carnies, shearing demon-
strations, rides and over-sugared kids ahoy!
Brisbane Festival ARTS
(www.brisbanefestival.com.au) Brisbane’s major
festival of the arts, held over three weeks in
September. See the boxed text (p296).
Brisbane Pride Festival GAY & LESBIAN
Brisbane’s
(www.brisbanepridefestival.com.au)
annual gay and lesbian celebration is held
296
BRISBANE FESTIVAL
In September, Brisbane’s streets
become a hurly-burly of colour, flair,
flavour and fireworks during the
city’s biggest annual arts event – the
Brisbane Festival. Running over three
weeks, the festival involves over 300
performances and 60-odd events, en-
ticing 2000-plus artists from across the
planet. Art exhibitions, dance, theatre,
opera, symphonies, circus performers,
buskers and vaudeville acts generate
an eclectic scene, with many free street
events and concerts around town.
Staged over the Brisbane River, with
vantage points at South Bank, the city
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B r i sban e
and West End, Riverfire is a highlight – a
massive fireworks show with a synchro-
nised soundtrack.
over four weeks in September (some events
in June, including the fab Queen’s Ball).
Brisbane Writers Festival ARTS
(BWF; www.brisbanewritersfestival.com.au)
Queens­land’s premier literary event has
been running for 50 years: words, books,
and people who put words in books. Held
in September.
Valley Fiesta MUSIC
(www.valleyfiesta.com.au) Rock bands and DJs
take over Fortitude Valley’s Brunswick St
and Chinatown malls for three days in Octo-
ber. Brisbane’s biggest free music fest.
4 Sleeping
Brisbane has an excellent selection of ac-
commodation options. Most are beyond the
business beds of the city centre, but they’re
usually within walking distance or have
good public-transport connections. Head for
Spring Hill for peace and quiet; Fortitude
Valley for party nights; Paddington for cafes
and boutiques; Petrie Terrace for hostels;
gay-friendly New Farm for restaurants; and
West End for bars and bookshops.
4 City Centre
X-Base Brisbane Central HOSTEL $
(Map p288; % 07-3211 2433, 1800 242 273; www.
stayatbase.com; 398 Edward St; dm $27-33, s/d/tw
$55/70/70; aiW ) This colossal backpack-
ers has basic rooms in a lace-fringed heritage
building (once a Salvation Army budget ho-
tel). There’s a rooftop terrace with city views,
a rickety old elevator, and a bar downstairs.
Not all rooms have air-con. There are two
other branches nearby: X-Base Brisbane
Embassy (Map p288; % 07-3166 8000; 214
Elizabeth St; dm $31-35, d with/without bathroom
$99/79; aiW ), which is much quieter but
a bit soulless; and the purpose-built X-Base
Brisbane Uptown (Map p288; % 07-3238
5888; 466 George St; dm $22-36, d & tw $130-140;
aiW ), which falls somewhere in between
(soundproofed rooms, all with bathroom).
Diamant Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
(Map p288; % 07-3009 3400; www.8hotels.com;
52 Astor Tce; d from $139; p a W ) Behind an
ultra-mod black-and-white facade, seven-
storey Diamant has compact, contemporary
rooms with natty wallpaper and thoughtful
touches (original artwork, iPod docks, free
wi-fi). The bigger suites have kitchenettes
and lounge areas, and there’s a bar-restau-
rant on the ground floor. Parking $28.
Urban Brisbane HOTEL $$
(Map p288; % 07-3831 6177; www.hotelurban.com.
au; 345 Wickham Tce; d from $150; a i W s ) Still
looking sexy after a $10-million makeover
in 2008, the Urban has stylish rooms with
masculine hues, balconies and high-end fit-
tings (super-comfy beds, big TVs, fuzzy bath-
robes). There’s also a heated outdoor pool, a
bar, and lots of uniformed flight attendants
checking in and out. Parking $15.
Inchcolm Hotel HERITAGE HOTEL $$
(Map p288; % 07-3226 8888; www.theinchcolm.
com.au; 73 Wickham Tce; r $160-250; p a W s )
Built in the 1930s as doctors’ suites, the
heritage-listed Inchcolm (pronounced as
per ‘Malcolm’) retains elements of its past
(love the old elevator!), but the rooms have
been overhauled. Those in the newer wing
have more space and light; in the older wing
there’s more character. There’s also a rooftop
pool and in-house restaurant. Parking $30.
Treasury LUXURY HOTEL $$$
(Map p288; % 07-3306 8888; www.treasury-
brisbane.com.au; 130 William St; r from $230;
paiW ) Brisbane’s most lavish hotel is
behind the equally lavish exterior of the
former Land Administration Building. Each
room is unique and awash with heritage fea-
tures, and has high ceilings, framed artwork,
polished wood furniture and elegant fur-
nishings. The best rooms have river views.
Super-efficient staff; parking $20.

Stamford Plaza Brisbane HOTEL $$$
(Map p288; % 07-3221 1999; www.stamford.com.au;
cnr Edward & Margaret Sts; r from $269; pai-
Ws ) In the southern CBD, the towering
Stamford has classical music in the lobby and
rows of Mercedes in the driveway. Opulent
rooms are a tad antiquey (not that there’s
anything wrong with that...), but have huge
beds, and there are multiple on-site bars, ea-
teries and salons. Park your Merc for $40.
M on Mary APARTMENTS $$$
(Map p288; %07-3503 8000; www.monmary.com;
70 Mary St; 1-/3-bedroom apt from $200/419;
paW) A stone’s throw from the botanic
gardens, this 43-storey tower has modern,
comfortable one- and three-bedroom apart-
ments (pricey, but with more affordable
long-term rates). The best apartments have
balconies; the not-so-good ones are a bit
gloomy. Parking $30.
4 South Bank &
West End
Brisbane Backpackers Resort HOSTEL $
(Map p298; % 07-3844 9956, 1800 626 452; www.
brisbanebackpackers.com.au; 110 Vulture St, West
End; dm $27-34, tw/d/tr $110/120/135; pai-
W s ) Is there such a thing as ‘backpacker
kitsch’? If so, this hulking hostel probably
qualifies, with dubious marketing relating
to ‘bad girls’ and what they do and don’t
do...But if you’re looking to party, you’re in
the right place. There’s a great pool and bar
area, and rooms are basic but generally well
maintained.
Somewhere to Stay HOSTEL $
(Map p298; % 07-3846 2858, 1800 812 398; www.
somewheretostay.com.au; 47 Brighton Rd; dm $19-
27, s $49-54, d $59-79; piWs ) An enormous
white Queenslander (actually, a couple of
buildings) with more than 50 rooms and
a very laid-back vibe. Cheap, casual and
grungy: not for the pernickety.
Riverside Hotel HOTEL $$
(Map p288; % 1800 301 101, 07-3846 0577; www.
riversidehotel.com.au; 20 Montague Rd, South
Bank; d/1-bedroom apt from $109/149; paWs )
This huge place spreads through several
taupe-coloured buildings, and has surpris-
ingly friendly staff for such a sprawling out-
fit. Right across the road from GOMA and
South Bank, location is why you’re here:
don’t expect too much from the motel-style
rooms and you’ll be fine.
297
4 Petrie Terrace
Aussie Way Backpackers HOSTEL $
(Map p298; % 07-3369 0711; www.aussieway-
backpackers.com; 34 Cricket St; dm/s/d/f/q
$26/55/68/78/104; aW s ) Set in a photo-
genic, two-storey timber Queenslander on
the appealingly named Cricket St, Aussie
Way feels more like a homely guesthouse
than a hostel, with spacious, tastefully fur-
nished rooms and a fab pool for sticky Bris-
bane afternoons. The doubles in the second
building out the back are just lovely. All
quiet after 10.30pm.
Brisbane City YHA HOSTEL $
(Map p298; % 07-3236 1004; www.yha.com.au; 392
Upper Roma St; dm $33-38, tw & d with/without
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B r i sban e
bathroom $114/97, f $132; p a i W s ) This im-
maculate, well-run hostel has a rooftop pool
and a sundeck with incredible river views.
The maximum dorm size is six beds (not too
big); most have bathrooms. Big on security,
activities, tours and kitchen space (lots of
fridges). The cafe/bar has trivia nights and
happy hours, but this is a YHA, not party
central. Parking $10.
Chill Backpackers HOSTEL $
(Map p298; % 1800 851 875, 07-3236 0088; www.
chillbackpackers.com; 328 Upper Roma St; dm $29-
35, d/tr $89/105; pai W ) This garish aqua
building on the CBD fringe has small, clean,
modern rooms, and there’s a roof deck with
fab river views (just like the YHA up the
road, but from a slightly reduced altitude).
There are 150 beds here, but if they’re full
the affiliated Brisbane City Backpackers is a
couple of doors away.
ROCK ‘N’ ROLL BRISBANE
It’s a long way from Hollywood Blvd, but
Fortitude Valley has its very own Valley
Walk of Fame (Map p292) honouring
the city’s most successful musos. At
the top end of Brunswick St Mall are 10
plaques celebrating artists that have
called Brisbane home (at least for their
formative years): the pre-Saturday
Night Fever Bee Gees, punk legends
the Saints, Queensland import Keith
Urban, and 15-time ARIA award–
winning rockers Powderfinger, just
to name a few. Nineties electro-rockers
Regurgitator and indie band Custard
also get a mention. Brisbane rocks!
 298

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simple two-level guesthouse has basic rooms

4 Spring Hill with washbasin and fridge, and clean shared
Kookaburra Inn GUESTHOUSE $
bathrooms. The building itself is unremarka-
(Map p288; % 07-3832 1303, 1800 733 533; www. ble, but there’s a lounge, kitchen and outdoor
kookaburra-inn.com.au; 41 Phillips St; s/d without patio. A decent budget option if you’ve done
bathroom from $59/76; aiW ) This small, dorms to death. Air-con in some doubles only.

West End & Petrie Terrace
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
1 Bicycle Revolution ................................. A4
2 Urban Climb ........................................... B4
3 XXXX Brewery Tour .............................. B2
ÿ Sleeping
4 Aussie Way Backpackers...................... D2
5 Brisbane Backpackers Resort.............. B5
6 Brisbane City YHA ................................. C2
7 Chill Backpackers.................................. D2
8 Somewhere to Stay............................... B5
ú Eating
9 Blackstar Coffee Roasters.................... B5
10 George's Seafood .................................. B5
11 Gunshop Café ........................................ B4
12 Little Greek Taverna.............................. B4
13 The Burrow ............................................ B4
Dahrl Court APARTMENT $$
(Map p288; % 07-3831 9553; www.dahrlcourt.com.
au; 45 Phillips St; apt from $155; pai ) In a
hushed, leafy pocket of Spring Hill, these 13
roomy apartments offer great bang for your
buck. The heritage aesthetics might feel a bit
kitsch, but there are lovely old timber ballus-
trades and art-deco ceilings, and all apart-
ments have kitchens.
Spring Hill Terraces MOTEL $$
(Map p284; % 07-3854 1048; www.springhillterraces.
com; 260 Water St; d $95-145, units $175; paWs )
Offering good old-fashioned service, secu-
rity and a tiny pool, Spring Hill Terraces
has motel-style rooms and roomier terrace
units with balconies and leafy courtyards. A
10-minute walk from Fortitude Valley.
4 Fortitude Valley
Bunk Backpackers HOSTEL $
(Map p292; % 07-3257 3644, 1800 682 865; www.
bunkbrisbane.com.au; cnr Ann & Gipps Sts; dm $21-
33, s $60, d/apt from $80/180; paiWs ) This
old arts college was reborn as a backpackers
in 2006 – and the party hasn’t stopped! It’s a
huge, five-level place with 55 rooms (mostly
eight-bed dorms), just staggering distance
from the Valley nightlife. There’s an in-house
bar (Birdees, 305), a Mexican cantina, and
some great apartments on the top floor.
Central Brunswick ¨
Apartments APARTMENT $$
(Map p292; % 07-3852 1411; www.centralbrunswick-
hotel.com.au; 455 Brunswick St; r $140-180; paW )
299
û Drinking & Nightlife
14 Archive Beer Boutique...........................B5
15 Cabiria.....................................................D2
16 Lychee Lounge .......................................B4
17 Normanby Hotel..................................... D1
18 The End ...................................................B5
ý Entertainment
19 Beetle Bar ...............................................C2
20 Brisbane Arts Theatre ........................... D1
21 Hi-Fi .........................................................B4
22 Lock 'n' Load...........................................B5
Loft West End ................................(see 14)
23 Palace Barracks .....................................D2
24 Suncorp Stadium ...................................C2
þ Shopping
25 Avid Reader ............................................B5
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B r i sban e
26 Davies Park Market................................A4
Emerging from the husk of an old brick brew-
ery building, these 60 apartments are a hit
with business bods. All have fully equipped
kitchens, and there’s an on-site gym, free wi-fi
and rooftop BBQ. Parking $10 per night.
Limes BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(Map p292; % 07-3852 9000; www.limeshotel.
com.au; 142 Constance St; d from $230; a W ) A
slick slice of style in the Valley, Limes has
21 handsome rooms that make good use of
tight space – each has plush furniture, kitch-
enettes and thoughtful extras (iPod docks,
free wi-fi, free gym pass). The rooftop bar
and cinema (!) are magic.
4 New Farm
oBowen Terrace GUESTHOUSE $
(Map p292; % 07-3254 0458; www.bowenterrace.
com.au; 365 Bowen Tce; dm/s/d without bathroom
$35/60/85, d/f with bathroom $99/145; p i s )
A beautifully restored, 100-year-old Queens-
lander, this guesthouse is in a quiet part of
New Farm. There are TVs, bar fridges, qual-
ity bed linens and lofty ceilings with fans
in every room. Out the back there’s a deck
overlooking the enticing pool. No air-con
but real value for money, with far more class
than your average hostel.
Allender Apartments APARTMENT $$
(Map p292; % 07-3358 5832; www.allenderapart-
ments.com.au; 3 Moreton St; d $135, 1-bedroom apt
$160-170; aW ) Allender’s apartments are a
mixed bag. In the plain yellow-brick build-
ing are simply furnished but clean rooms.
300
More attractive are the heritage apart-
ments in the adjoining Fingal House, a 1918
Queenslander with polished timber floors,
oak furniture and access to a private veran-
dah or courtyard.
4 Kangaroo Point
Il Mondo HOTEL $$
(Map p288; % 07-3392 0111, 1300 665 526; www.
ilmondo.com.au; 25 Rotherham St; r $160, 1-/3-
bedroom apt $250/500; paiWs ) In a
beaut location near the Story Bridge, this
postmodern-looking, seven-storey hotel has
handsome rooms and apartments with min-
imalist design, high-end fixtures and plenty
of space. The biggest apartments sleep six –
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B r i sban e
good value for a full house.
Queensland Motel MOTEL $$
(Map p288; % 07-3391 1061; www.queensland-
motel.id.au; 777 Main St; d/tr/f $120/150/185;
p a W s ) A no-frills, friendly, old-school
motel near ‘the Gabba’ cricket ground and
20 minutes’ walk to the city. Shoot for a
room on the top floor, with palm trees rus-
tling outside your window.
4 Paddington & Around
Newmarket Gardens
Caravan Park CAMPGROUND $
(Map p284; % 07-3356 1458; www.newmarketgar-
dens.com.au; 199 Ashgrove Ave, Newmarket; un-
powered/powered sites $38/39, on-site vans $56,
budget r $64, cabins $125-150; paiW ) This
upbeat caravan park doesn’t have many
trees (some of them are mangoes – beware
falling fruit!), but it’s just 4km north of the
city, accessible by bus and train. There’s a
row of six simple budget rooms (no air-con),
five tidy cabins (with air-con) and a sea of
van and tent sites.
Casabella Apartment APARTMENT $$
(Map p301; % 07-3217 6507; www.casabella-
apartment.com; 211 Latrobe Tce, Paddington; apt
$185; p W ) The understorey of this fuschia-
coloured house at the quiet end of Paddo’s
main drag has been converted into a very
comfortable self-contained unit. There are
two bedrooms (sleeps three), warm Medi-
terranean colour schemes, recycled timber
floors and lots of louvres to let the cross-
breeze through (no air-con). Lovely! Free
street parking.
Fern Cottage B&B $$
(Map p301; % 07-3511 6685; www.ferncottage.net;
89 Fernberg Rd, Paddington; s/d $135/165; p a W )
Fern Cottage is a renovated, mustard-
coloured, three-suite Queenslander with
splashes of chintzy ambience and a shared
guest kitchen. The suites are cushy (two of
which sleep three; plus one double), and
there’s a BBQ terrace out the back. Free
street parking.
oLatrobe Apartment APARTMENT $$$
(Map p301; % 0448 944 026; www.stayz.com.
au/77109; 183a Latrobe Tce, Paddington; apt
$200; paW ) Underneath a chiropractor
in affluent Paddington is this excellent two-
bedroom apartment, sleeping four, with two
bathrooms, polished floorboards, sexy light-
ing and a fabulous BBQ deck. It’s a sleek,
contemporary design, with quality every-
thing: linen, toiletries, kitchenware, TV, iPod
dock, leather lounge... Cafes and free park-
ing up at street level.
5 Eating
Like most things in Brisbane, dining expe-
riences can be broadly defined by which
neighbourhood you’re in. The city centre is
the place for fine dining and coffee nooks. In
Fortitude Valley you’ll find cheap cafes and
Chinatown. Nearby, New Farm has plenty of
multicultural eateries and award winners.
West End is littered with bohemian cafes.
South Bank swings between mainstream
and pricey eats. But no matter where you
are, you’ll always be able to eat outside!
5 City Centre
oBrew CAFE, WINE BAR $
(Map p288; % 07-3211 4242; www.brewgroup.com.
au; Lower Burnett La; mains $6-12; h 7am-5pm
Mon, to 10pm Tue & Wed, to 11.30pm Thu & Fri, 9am-
11.30pm Sat, 9am-3pm Sun) You’d expect to find
this kind of subcultural underground cafe
in Seattle or Berlin...but Brisbane? Breaking
new coffee-cultural ground in Queensland,
Brew takes the caffeine into the alleyways,
serving simple food (tapas, pastas, sand-
wiches) to go with the black stuff. Serves
wines and bottled beers if you feel like a dif-
ferent kind of brew.
Bleeding Heart Gallery CAFE $
(Map p288; %07-3229 0395; www.bleedingheart.
com.au; 166 Ann St; mains $5-10; h7am-5pm Mon-
Fri; W) S Set back from hectic Ann St in an
 301

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1865 servants’ home (Brisbane’s third-oldest

building!), this spacious cafe/gallery has
hippie vibes and hosts art exhibitions, oc-
casional concerts and other events. All prof-
its go into funding charitable community
enterprises.
Merlo Coffee CAFE $
(Map p288; % 07-3221 2616; www.merlo.com.au;
10 Market St; items $4-8; h 6.30am-4pm Mon-Fri)
Keeping the downtown business bods fir-
ing, this roaster/cafe is one of several Merlos
around Brisbane (a local success story). The
food is fine (croissants, cakes, sandwiches),
but what you’re here for is the coffee: strong
enough to get you through the next meeting.
Java Coast Cafe CAFE $
(Map p288; % 07-3211 3040; www.javacoastcafe.
com.au; 340 George St; mains $11-20; h 6.30am-
3pm Mon-Fri) Behind a grungy downtown
rollerdoor, a skinny alleyway leads to a hid-
den cafe garden with a fountain, subtropical
plants and Buddha statues. An oasis on the
Java coast! Good coffee, teas, sandwiches,
salads and light meals with Asian accents.
E’cco MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$$
(Map p288; % 07-3831 8344; www.eccobistro.com;
100 Boundary St; mains $43; h noon-3pm Tue-Fri,
6-10pm Tue-Sat) One of the finest restaurants
Paddington
ÿ Sleeping
1 Casabella Apartment .......................... A1
2 Fern Cottage ........................................B2
3 Latrobe Apartment.............................. A1
ú Eating
4 Il Posto..................................................B2
û Drinking & Nightlife
5 Lark.......................................................C3
þ Shopping
6 Paddington Antique Centre................ B1
in the state, award-winning E’cco is a culi-
nary must. Menu masterpieces from chef
Philip Johnson include liquorice-spiced
pork belly with caramelised peach, onion
jam and kipfler potatoes. The interior is
suitably swish: all black, white and stainless
steel.
Stokehouse MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$$
(Map p288; % 07-3020 0600; www.stokehouse.
com.au; River Quay, Sidon St, South Bank; mains
$34-62; h 10am-1am) Looking for a classy res-
taurant in which to pop the question? This
angular, concrete and dark-timber bunker
by the river is for you. Start with the spanner
302
crab with apple jelly, then move on to the
Daintree barramundi with white clams and
sauerkraut. Flashy Stoke Bar is next door
(for champagne after she/he says ‘Yes!’).
Cha Cha Char STEAKHOUSE $$$
(Map p288; % 07-3211 9944; www.chachachar.com.
au; Shop 5, 1 Eagle St Pier; mains $38-95; h noon-
11pm Mon-Fri, 6pm-11pm Sat & Sun) Wallowing in
awards, this long-running favourite serves
Brisbane’s best steaks, along with first-rate
seafood and roast game meats. The classy
semicircular dining room in the Eagle St
Pier complex has floor-to-ceiling windows
and river views.
5 South Bank &
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B r i sban e
Kangaroo Point
Piaf FRENCH $$
(Map p288; % 07-3846 5026; www.piafbistro.com.
au; 5/182 Grey St, South Bank; breakfast mains $6-
18, lunch & dinner $24-28; h 7am-late) A chilled-
out but still intimate bistro with a loyal
following, Piaf serves a small selection (gen-
erally just five mains and a few salads and
other light options) of good-value, contem-
porary French-inspired food. French wines
by the glass.
Cliffs Cafe CAFE $$
(Map p288; www.cliffscafe.com.au; 29 River Tce;
mains $12-20; h 7am-5pm) A steep climb up
from the riverside, this cliff-top cafe has su-
perb river and city-skyline views. It’s a casu-
al, open-air pavilion: thick burgers, battered
barramundi and chips, salads, desserts and
good coffee are the standouts.
Ahmet’s TURKISH $$
(Map p288; % 07-3846 6699; www.ahmets.com;
Shop 10, 168 Grey St, South Bank; mains $19-34,
banquets per person $34-46; h 11.30am-3pm &
6pm-late; v ) On restaurant-lined Grey St,
Ahmet’s serves delectable Turkish fare amid
a riot of colours and Grand Bazaar/Bospho-
rus murals. Try a Sucuk pide (oven-baked
Turkish bread with Turkish salami, egg, to-
mato and mozzarella). Deep street-side ter-
race and regular live music.
5 Fortitude Valley &
Chinatown
James Street Market MARKET, SELF-CATERING $
(Map p292; www.jamesstmarket.com.au; 22 James
St; h 8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat & Sun)
Paradise for gourmands, this small but
beautifully stocked market has gourmet
cheeses, a bakery/patisserie, fruit and veg,
flowers, and lots of quality goodies. The
fresh seafood counter serves excellent sushi
and sashimi.
The Vietnamese VIETNAMESE $
(Map p292; % 07-3252 4112; www.thevietnamese­
restaurant.com.au; 194 Wickham St; mains $10-20;
h 11am-3pm & 5pm-10pm) Aptly if unimagina-
tively named, this is indeed the place in town
to eat Vietnamese, with exquisitely prepared
dishes served to an always crowded house.
Go for something from the ‘Chef’s Recom-
mendation’ list: crispy beef strips with hon-
ey and chilli, or clay-pot prawns with oyster
sauce. Great value for money.
Flamingo CAFE $
(Map p292; % 07-3252 7557; www.facebook.com/
pages/flamingo-cafe/362822247134; 5b Winn St;
mains $10-15; h 7.30am-4pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-
4pm Sun) Hiding down a tiny lane off Ann
St, Flamingo is a buzzy little bolt-hole cafe
with black and pink walls, a boho vibe and
cheerfully profane wait staff. Winning vegie
burgers and banana-and-date loaf.
Kuan Yin Tea House CHINESE, VEGETARIAN $
(Map p292; % 07-3252 4557; www.kuanyintea-
house.blogspot.com.au; 198 Wickham St; mains $6-
12; h 11.30am-7.30pm Mon, Wed & Thu, to 8pm Fri,
to 5pm Sat, to 3pm Sun; v ) Kuan Yin is a small,
garish BYO place with faux-wood panelling
and a bamboo-lined ceiling. Food-wise it
serves flavourful vegetarian noodle soups,
dumplings and mock-meat rice dishes. Try
the tofu salad. Great tea selection, too.
Ortiga SPANISH $$
(Map p292; % 07-3852 1155; www.ortiga.com.
au; 446 Brunswick St; tapas $6-50, mains $18-32;
h 12.30-3pm Fri, 6pm-late Tue-Sun) One of Bris-
bane’s best restaurants, Ortiga offers a sty­
lish upstairs tapas bar (heavy on the meats)
with a pressed-tin ceiling and window
bench, and an elegant subterranean din-
ing room with an open kitchen. Top picks
include Basque pork sausage, pulpo a gal-
lega (Galician-braised octopus) and whole
slow-cooked lamb shoulder. Kick-ass cock-
tails, too.
Spoon Deli Cafe CAFE $$
(Map p292; % 07-3257 1750; www.spoondeli.com.
au; Shop B3, 22 James St; breakfast $7-20, mains
$18-30; h 6.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7am-5pm Sat &
Sun) Inside James St Market, this upscale

deli serves gloriously rich pastas, salads,
soups, colossal paninis and lasagne slabs.
The fresh juices are a liquid meal unto them-
selves. Walls are lined with deli produce:
vinegars, oils, herbs and hampers. You’ll feel
hungry as soon as you walk in!
5 New Farm
Cafe Bouquiniste CAFE $
(Map p292; 121 Merthyr Rd; mains $8-12; h 7.30am-
5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Sat, 8.30am-1pm Sun;
v ) Filling a tiny old side-street shopfront,
this boho cafe and bookseller has buckets of
charm (if not much space). The coffee is fan-
tastic, service is friendly, and the prices are
right for breakfast fare, toasted sandwiches,
savoury tarts and cakes. Try the pumpkin,
goats cheese and sage tart.
Himalayan Cafe NEPALESE $
(Map p292; % 07-3358 4015; 640 Brunswick St;
mains $15-25; h 5.30-10pm Tue-Sun; v ) Awash
with prayer flags and colourful cushions,
this karmically positive, unfussy restaurant
serves authentic Tibetan and Nepalese fare
such as tender fhaiya darkau (lamb with
vegies, coconut milk and spices). Repeat the
house mantra: ‘May positive forces be with
every single living thing that exists’.
Burger Urge BURGERS $
(Map p292; www.burgerurge.com.au; 542 Bruns-
wick St; mains $10-21; h noon-late Mon-Thu,
11.30am-late Fri-Sun) One of several Burger
Urges around town, serving brilliant buns:
lamb, chicken, cheese, chilli, Greek, Turkish,
steak and vegie options aplenty. Sit on the
footpath under rock-blaring speakers, or in-
side with the comic-book wallpaper.
Café Cirque CAFE $$
(Map p292; 618 Brunswick St; mains $14-17; h 7am-
4pm; v ) One of the best breakfast spots
(served all day) in town, buzzing Café Cirque
serves rich coffee and daily specials, along
with open-face sandwiches and gourmet sal-
ads for lunch. Little skinny room with fold-
back windows to the street.
Watt MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(Map p284; % 07-3358 5464; www.wattrestaurant.
com.au; Brisbane Powerhouse, 119 Lamington St;
mains $9-25; h 9am-late Mon-Fri, 8am-late Sat &
Sun) On the riverbank level of the Brisbane
Powerhouse is casual, breezy Watt. Order up
some duck salad with sweet chilli, rocket
and orange; or a smoked ham-hock terrine
with lentils and cornichons. Wines by the
303
glass; DJ tunes on Sunday afternoons. The
flood sculpture out the front has been a bit
too relevant of late...
5 Paddington
Il Posto ITALIAN $$
(Map p301; % 07-3367 3111; www.ilposto.com.au;
107 Latrobe Tce; mains $20-29; h noon-4pm &
5.30-late Tue-Sun; c ) Pizza and pasta just like
they make in Rome, served on an outdoor
piazza (or inside if it’s too humid). Pizzas
come either rosse or bianche (with or with-
out tomato base), and are thin and crispy.
Great staff, Peroni beer on tap, and kid-
friendly too.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B r i sban e
5 West End
George’s Seafood FISH & CHIPS $
(Map p298; % 07-3844 4100; 150 Boundary St;
meals $8-10; h 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-
7.30pm Sat & Sun) With a window full of fresh
mudcrabs, Moreton Bay rock oysters, banana
prawns and whole snapper, this old fish-and-
chipper has been here forever. The $8 cod-
and-chips is why you’re here – unbeatable!
The Burrow CAFE $
(Map p298; % 07-3846 0030; www.theburrow-
westend.com.au; 37 Mollison St; mains $10-20;
h 7am-late Tue-Sun; W ) In the open-sided un-
derstorey of a shambling old Queenslander,
casual Burrow is like a Baja California can-
tina crossed with a student share-house:
laid-back and beachy with surf murals
and wafting Pink Floyd. Try the hangover-
removing El Desperados taco for breakfast –
pulled pork, eggs and jalapeño salsa. Good
coffee, too.
Blackstar Coffee Roasters CAFE $
(Map p298; www.blackstarcoffee.com.au; 44
Thomas St; items $6-12; h 7am-5pm Mon-Sat,
7am-8pm Sun) A neighbourhood fave, West
End’s own bean roaster has excellent coffee,
a simple breakfast menu (wraps, avocado on
toast, eggs Benedict), wailing Roy Orbison
and live jazz on Saturday evening. Try one of
their cold-pressed coffees on a hot day.
oGunshop Café CAFE, MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(Map p298; % 07-3844 2241; www.thegunshopcafe.
com; 53 Mollison St; mains $17-33; h 6.30am-2pm
Mon, 6.30am-late Tue-Sat, 6.30am-2.30pm Sun)
With cool tunes, interesting art and happy
staff, this peaceably repurposed gun shop
has exposed-brick walls, sculptural ceiling
304
lamps and an inviting back garden. The
locally sourced menu changes daily, but
regulars include smoked chicken lasagne,
a pulled pork baguette and wild-mushroom
risotto. Boutique beers, excellent Australian
wines and afternoon pick-me-ups available.
Mondo Organics MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(Map p284; % 07-3844 1132; www.mondo-organics.
com.au; 166 Hardgrave Rd; mains $25-36; h 8.30-
11.30am Sat & Sun, noon-2.30pm Fri-Sun, 6pm-late
Wed-Sat) S Using the highest-quality organ-
ic and sustainable produce, Mondo Organ-
ics earns top marks for its delicious seasonal
menu. Recent hits include duck breast with
fig, sage and strawberry; and potato and
parmesan gnocchi with golden shallots, zuc-
chini and salsa verde. See the website for de-
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B r i sban e
tails on the attached cooking school.
Little Greek Taverna GREEK $$
(Map p298; % 07-3255 2215; www.littlegreektav-
erna.com.au; Shop 5, 1 Browning St; mains $15-30,
banquets per person $35-42; h 11am-9pm; c )
Up-tempo, eternally busy and in a prime
West End location, the LGT is perfect for a
big Greek feast and some people-watching.
Launch into a prawn and saganaki salad or a
classic lamb yiros, washed down with a sleep-
defeating Greek coffee. Kid-friendly, too.
Caravanserai TURKISH $$
(Map p284; % 07-3217 2617; www.caravanserai-
restaurant.com.au; 1 Dornoch Tce; mains $25-35;
h noon-2.30pm Fri & Sat, 6pm-late Tue-Sun) Wo-
ven tablecloths, red walls and candlelit ta-
bles create a snug atmosphere at this stand­
out Turkish restaurant. Share an Ottoman
meze platter (haloumi, chorizo, almond-
crusted goats cheese, garlic prawns and
more good stuff), or tuck into the excellent
braised lamb shank.
6 Drinking & Nightlife
The prime drinking destination in Brisbane
is Fortitude Valley, with its lounges, live-
music bars and nightclubs. Most clubs here
are open from Wednesday to Sunday nights;
some are free, others charge up to $20. Dress
nice and bring your ID. In the CBD there’s a
bottoms-up after-work crowd, while West
End has cool bars full of inner-city funksters.
6 City Centre
oSuper Whatnot BAR
(Map p288; www.superwhatnot.com; 48 Burnett La;
h 3pm-late Tue-Sat) Trailblazing Super Whatnot
is a funky, industrial laneway space, with a mez-
zanine floor and sunken lounge. Drinks: bot-
tled boutique Australian beers and cocktails
(try the cure-all Penicillin). Food: American-
inspired bar snacks (hotdogs, mini burritos,
nachos). Tunes: vinyl DJs Thursday to Sat-
urday spinning funk, soul and hip-hop; live
acoustic acts Wednesday. Winning combo!
Laneway BAR
(Map p288; www.urbanerestaurant.com/the-lane-
way; 181 Mary St; h noon-midnight Mon-Fri, 6pm-
midnight Sat) Upstairs above the urbane Euro
restaurant (walk through the restaurant to
the stairs, or shuffle in the back door from
the eponymous Spencer La), Laneway is a
sassy cocktail bar full of upwardly mobile
city fashionistas. Sip a Clementina (spicy
mandarin and tequila) then order a wagyu
burger to keep you upright.
Belgian Beer Cafe BAR
(Map p288; www.belgianbeercafebrussels.com.au;
cnr Mary & Edward Sts; h 11.30am-late) Wood-
panelled walls and art-deco lights lend an
old-world charm to this buzzing space. Out
the back, the beer garden has big screens
and big after-work egos. Lots of Hoegaarden
and Leffe and high-end bistro fare. Ignore
the ’80s-era Stevie Wonder.
6 Fortitude Valley
oAlfred & Constance BAR
(Map p292; www.alfredandconstance.com.au; 130
Constance St; h 10am-3am) Wow! Fabulously
eccentric A&C occupies two old weather-
board houses. Inside, fluoro-clad ditch dig-
gers, tattooed lesbians, suits and surfies
roam between the tiki bar, rooftop terrace,
cafe area and lounge rooms checking out the
interiors: chandeliers, skeletons, surfboards,
old hi-fi equipment... It’s weird, and very
wonderful. Great beers, cocktails and food.
Bowery COCKTAIL BAR
(Map p292; www.thebowery.com.au; 676 Ann St;
h 5pm-late Tue-Sun) The exposed-brick walls,
gilded mirrors, booths and foot-worn floor-
boards at this long, narrow bar bring a touch
of substance to the valley fray. The cocktails
and wine list are top-notch (and priced ac-
cordingly), and there’s live jazz/dub Tuesday
to Thursday. DJs spin on weekends.
Press Club COCKTAIL BAR
(Map p292; www.pressclub.net.au; 339 Brunswick
St; h 5pm-late Tue-Sun) Amber hues, leather

sofas, ottomans, glowing chandeliers, fabric-
covered lanterns... It’s all rather glamorously
Moroccan here (with a touch of that kooky
cantina from Star Wars). Live music on
Thursday (jazz, funk, rockabilly) and DJs on
weekends.
La Ruche COCKTAIL BAR
(Map p292; www.laruche.com.au; 680 Ann St)
French for ‘the hive’, La Ruche is indeed
buzzing, with a dressed-up crowd banter-
ing over bespoke cocktails and tapas plates.
Interiors morph Alice in Wonderland with
the Mexican Day of the Dead, while there’s a
smoking courtyard out the back and an inti-
mate retreat upstairs.
Cru Bar & Cellar WINE BAR
(Map p292; www.crubar.com; 22 James St; h 11am-
late Mon-Fri, 10am-late Sat & Sun) A mind-pickling
menu of hundreds of wines (by the glass,
bottle or half-bottle) is on offer at this classy
joint, with confidently strutting staff, a glow-
ing marble bar and fold-back windows to
the street.
Birdees CLUB
(Map p292; www.birdees.com.au; 608 Ann St; h 4pm-
late Mon-Thu, noon-5am Fri & Sat, noon-late Sun) Part
of the sprawling Bunk Backpackers complex,
Birdees fills, predictably, with backpackers go-
ing berserk. Big fun. The Aviary room upstairs
has comedy on Thursday nights.
Oh Hello CLUB
(Map p292; www.ohhello.com.au; 621 Ann St;
h 9pm-5am Thu-Sat) Oh hello! Fancy seeing
you here! This convivial club is perfect if you
like the idea of clubbing but find the real-
ity a bit deflating. It’s unpretentious (you
can wear a T-shirt), there’s a great selection
of craft beers, and the cool kids here don’t
think too highly of themselves.
Cloudland CLUB
(Map p292; www.katarzyna.com.au/venues/cloud-
land; 641 Ann St; h 5pm-late Thu & Fri, noon-late
Sat & Sun) Like stepping into a surreal cloud
forest, this multilevel club has a huge plant-
filled lobby with a retractable glass roof, a
wall of water and wrought-iron birdcage-
like nooks. Even if you’re not a clubber, peek
through the windows during the day: the
interior design is astonishing!
Alloneword CLUB, BAR
(Map p292; www.alloneword.com.au; 188 Brunswick
St; h 8pm-late Fri & Sat) On a seedy stretch
of Brunswick, this whimsical underground
spot bucks the beats in favour of old-school
305
funk, soul and hip-hop. Beaut outdoor area;
monthly indie music nights. We just wish it
was open more often!
Beat MegaClub CLUB, GAY
(Map p292; www.thebeatmegaclub.com.au; 677 Ann
St; h 9pm-5am Mon & Tue, 8pm-5am Wed-Sun)
Five rooms + seven bars + three chill-out are-
as + hard house/electro/retro/techno beats =
the perfect place for dance junkies. It’s big
with the gay and lesbian crowd, with regular
drag performances.
Wickham Hotel CLUB, GAY
(Map p292; www.thewickham.com.au; 308 Wick-
ham St; h 10am-late) Brisbane’s most popular
gay and lesbian venue, with rainbow flags,
drag shows and blaring Gloria Gaynor.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B r i sban e
6 West End
Archive Beer Boutique BAR
(Map p298; www.archivebeerboutique.com.au; 100
Boundary St; h 11am-late) Interesting beer,
interesting place: welcome to Archive, a
temple of beer with many a fine frothy on
tap (try the Evil Twin West Coast Red Ale).
Check out the bar made of books! Oh, and
the food’s good, too (steaks, mussels, pasta).
Upstairs is Loft West End (Map p298; www.
loftwestend.com), a sophisticated cocktail/
food room.
The End BAR
(Map p298; www.73vulture.com; 1/73 Vulture St;
h 3pm-midnight) This mod-industrial shop-
front conversion is a real locals’ hangout,
with hipsters, cheese boards, Morrisey on
the turntable, DJs and live acoustic trouba-
dours. The Blackstar mocha stout (caffeine
courtesy of the local roaster) will cheer up
your rainy river afternoon.
Lychee Lounge COCKTAIL BAR
(Map p298; www.lycheelounge.com.au; 94 Bound-
ary St; h 3pm-midnight Sun-Thu, 3pm-1am Fri &
Sat) Sink into the lush furniture and stare
up at the macabre doll-head chandeliers at
this exotic oriental lounge bar, with mellow
beats, mood lighting and an open frontage
to Boundary St. Is that a real opium den?
6 New Farm & Around
Breakfast Creek Hotel PUB
(Map p284; www.breakfastcreekhotel.com; 2 Kings-
ford Smith Dr, Albion; h 10am-late) This historic
1889 pub is a Brisbane classic. Built in lavish
306
French Renaissance style, it has various bars
and dining areas (including a beer garden
and an art-deco ‘private bar’ where you can
drink beer tapped from a wooden keg). The
stylish Substation No 41 bar serves cocktails
and super steaks.
Alto Bar BAR, RESTAURANT
(Map p284; www.baralto.com.au; Brisbane Power-
house, 119 Lamington St, New Farm; h 11am-late
Tue-Sun) Inside the arts-loving Powerhouse,
this snappy upstairs bar/restaurant has an
enormous balcony with chunky timber ta-
bles, overlooking the river – a mighty fine
vantage point any time of day.
6 Kangaroo Point &
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B r i sban e
Around
Story Bridge Hotel PUB
(Map p288; www.storybridgehotel.com.au; 200
Main St, Kangaroo Point; h 9am-late) Beneath
the bridge at Kangaroo Point, this beautiful
1886 pub and beer garden is perfect for a
pint after a long day exploring. Live jazz on
Sundays (from 3pm); lots of different drink-
ing and eating areas.
Canvas WINE BAR
(Map p284; www.canvasclub.com.au; 16b Logan Rd,
Woolloongabba; h 3pm-midnight Tue-Fri, 11.30am-
late Sat & Sun) In the shadow of the Gabba
cricket ground, Canvas is hip, compact and
artsy. Step down off Logan St – an emerg-
ing eating/drinking/antiques hub – pause to
ogle the kooky mural, then order a ‘Guerilla
Warfare’ from the moustachioed bartender.
6 Paddington &
Petrie Terrace
Cabiria BAR
(Map p298; www.cabiria.com.au; 6 The Barracks,
61 Petrie Tce, Petrie Terrace; h 7-10.30am Mon,
7am-late Tue-Sat) Brisbane’s old police barracks
have been converted into a complex of bars
and eateries, the pick of which is cool Cabiria.
It’s a skinny, dim-lit room with mirrors and
shimmering racks of booze (35 different tequi-
las!). Awesome New York–style sandwiches.
Lark BAR
(Map p301; www.thelark.com.au; 267 Given Tce, Pad-
dington; h 4pm-midnight Wed-Fri, 1pm-midnight
Sat, 1-10pm Sun) Inside an intimate, two-level
brick terrace, Lark serves up inventive fusion
fare and artful cocktails. Tapas share-plates
involve hits like wagyu sliders and parmesan-
crusted mushrooms, washed down with inter-
national wines, crafty beers and cocktails (go
for the Cherry Bourbon Smash). What a lark!
Normanby Hotel PUB
(Map p298; www.thenormanby.com.au; 1 Musgrave
Rd, Brisbane; h 10am-3pm) A handsome 1889
redbrick pub on the end of Petrie Tce, with a
beer garden under a vast fig tree. Goes nuts
during ‘Sunday Sessions’ (boozy wakes for
the weekend).
3 Entertainment
Most big-ticket international bands have
Brisbane on their radar, and the city’s clubs
regularly attract top-class DJs. Theatres, cin-
emas and other performing-arts venues are
among Australia’s biggest and best.
Free entertainment street-press includes
Time Off (www.timeoff.com.au) and Scene
(www.scenemagazine.com.au). Q News
(www.qnews.com.au) covers the gay and les-
bian scene. The Courier Mail (www.news.
com.au/couriermail) also has daily arts and
entertainment listings, or check the Bris-
bane Times (www.brisbanetimes.com.au).
Ticketek (Map p288; % 13 28 49; www.tick-
etek.com.au; cnr Elizabeth & George Sts; h 9am-
5pm) is a central booking agency that han-
dles major events, sports and performances.
Try Qtix (% 13 62 46; www.qtix.com.au) for
loftier arts performances.
Live Music
Lock ‘n’ Load LIVE MUSIC
(Map p298; www.locknloadbistro.com.au; 142
Boundary St, West End; h 10am-late Mon-Fri, 7am-
late Sat & Sun) This gastro-pub lures an upbeat
crowd of music fans. Bands play the small
front stage (jazz and originals). Catch a gig,
then show up for breakfast the next morning
(the grilled sardines go well with hangovers).
Hi-Fi LIVE MUSIC
(Map p298; www.thehifi.com.au; 125 Boundary St,
West End) This mod, minimalist rock room
has unobstructed sight lines and a great
line-up of local and international talent
(from the Gin Blossoms to Suicidal Tenden-
cies). Retro Vinyl bar is out the front.
Zoo LIVE MUSIC
(Map p292; www.thezoo.com.au; 711 Ann St, For-
titude Valley; h 7.30pm-late Wed-Sun) The Zoo
has surrendered a bit of musical territory to
the Hi-Fi, but is still a grungy spot for rock,
hip-hop, acoustic, reggae and electronic acts
(lots of raw local talent).

Brisbane Jazz Club JAZZ
(Map p288; % 07-3391 2006; www.brisbanejazz-
club.com.au; 1 Annie St, Kangaroo Point; h 6.30-
11pm Thu-Sat, 5.30-9.30pm Sun) Straight out
of the bayou, this tiny riverside jazz shack
has been Brisbane’s jazz beacon since 1972.
Anyone who’s anyone in the scene plays here
when they’re in town. Cover charge $12 to
$20.
Riverstage LIVE MUSIC
(Map p288; www.brisbane.qld.gov.au/facilities-
recreation/arts-and-culture/riverstage; 59 Gardens
Point Rd) Riverstage is a fab outdoor arena on
the southern tip of the downtown Brisbane
peninsula. Big internationals like the Stone
Roses and guitar-god Slash grace the stage.
Beetle Bar
LIVE MUSIC
(Map p298; www.beetlebar.com.au; 350 Upper
Roma St; h 7pm-late Thu-Sat) Full of boozy
backpackers from the surrounding hostels,
Beetle Bar is the spot for up-and-coming lo-
cal and national alt-rock acts. Look for the
reconfigured VW Beetle on the roof.
Cinemas
Moonlight Cinema CINEMA
(Map p284; www.moonlight.com.au; Brisbane
Power­house, 119 Lamington Rd, New Farm; adult/
child $16/12; h 7pm Wed-Sun) New Farm Park
behind the Powerhouse hosts alfresco flicks
between December and February. Arrive
early to get a good spot.
Palace Barracks CINEMA
(Map p298; www.palacecinemas.com.au; 61 Petrie
Tce, Petrie Terrace; adult/child $17.50/13; h 10am-
late) Near Roma St Station, plush, six-screen
Palace Barracks shows Hollywood and alter-
native fare. And there’s a bar!
Ben & Jerry’s Openair Cinemas CINEMA
(Map p288; www.openaircinemas.com.au; Cultural
Forecourt, South Bank Parklands, South Bank; adult/
child online $17/12, at the gate $22/17; h from 6pm
Mon-Fri, from 4pm Sat & Sun) From mid-October
to late November you can watch big-screen
classics under the stars (or clouds) at South
Bank. Hire a beanbag or bring a picnic rug.
Palace Centro CINEMA
(Map p292; www.palacecinemas.com.au; 39 James
St, Fortitude Valley; adult/child $17.50/13; h 10am-
late) Palace Centro screens art-house films
and has a French film festival in March/April.
Event Cinemas CINEMA
(Map p288; www.eventcinemas.com.au; L3, Myer Cen-
tre, Elizabeth St; adult/child $17/12.50; h 10am-late)
307
Also accessible from Queen St Mall; shows
mainstream smash-’em-up blockbusters.
South Bank Cinema CINEMA
(Map p288; www.cineplex.com.au; cnr Grey & Ernest
Sts, South Bank; adult/child from $9/5; h 10am-
late) The cheapest complex for mainstream
releases.
Performing Arts
Brisbane Powerhouse PERFORMING ARTS
(Map p284; www.brisbanepowerhouse.org; 119
Lamington St, New Farm) Nationally and inter-
nationally acclaimed theatre, music, comedy,
dance... There are loads of happenings at the
Powerhouse – many free – and the venue,
with its cool bar-restaurants, enjoys a gor-
geous setting overlooking the Brisbane River.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B r i sban e
Queensland Performing ¨
Arts Centre PERFORMING ARTS
(QPAC; Map p288; www.qpac.com.au; Queensland
Cultural Centre, cnr Grey & Melbourne Sts, South
Bank; h box office 9am-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Bris-
bane’s main high-arts performance centre
comprises three venues and features con-
certs, plays, dance and performances of all
genres: anything from flamenco to the Aus-
tralian Ballet and West Side Story revivals.
Queensland Conservatorium LIVE MUSIC
(Map p288; www.griffith.edu.au/music/queensland-
conservatorium; 140 Grey St, South Bank; h box of-
fice 7am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat & Sun) Part
of Griffith University, the Conservatorium
hosts opera, as well as touring artists playing
classical, jazz, rock and world music. Many
concerts are free.
Judith Wright Centre of ¨
Contemporary Arts PERFORMING ARTS
(Map p292; www.judithwrightcentre.com; 420
Bruns­wick St, Fortitude Valley; W ) A medium-
sized (300 seats max) space for cutting-edge
performances.
Brisbane Arts Theatre THEATRE
(Map p298; www.artstheatre.com.au; 210 Petrie Tce)
Intimate community theatre built in 1936;
catch improvisation troupes, children’s thea-
tre or classic plays.
QUT Gardens Theatre THEATRE
(Map p288; www.gardenstheatre.qut.edu.au; Que­
ensland University of Technology, 2 George St;
h box office 10am-4pm) On the university cam-
pus, but with productions that are anything
but amateur. Expect to see Australia’s best
professional stage actors.
308

MARKET-LOVERS GUIDE TO BRISBANE

¨¨Jan Power’s Farmers Market (Map p284; www.janpowersfarmersmarkets.com.au;

Brisbane Powerhouse, 119 Lamington St, New Farm; h 6am-noon 2nd & 4th Sat of month) Fancy
some purple heirloom carrots or blue bananas? This fab farmers market, with more
than 120 stalls, coughs up some unusual produce. Also great for more predictably
coloured flowers, cheeses, coffees and fish.
¨¨Davies Park Market (Map p298; www.daviesparkmarket.com.au; Davies Park, West End;
h 6am-2pm Sat) Under a grove of huge Moreton Bay fig trees in the West End, this hippie
riverside market features organic foods, gourmet breakfasts, herbs and flowers, bric-a-
brac and buskers.
¨¨South Bank Lifestyle Markets (Map p288; www.southbankmarket.com.au; Stanley
St Plaza, South Bank; h 5-10pm Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, 9am-5pm Sun) It’s a bit touristy, but
this riverside market has a great range of clothing, craft, art, handmade goods and
souvenirs (just ignore the lacquered boomerangs).
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B r i sban e

Sport a quality dose of subversive, lefty rebellious-

Like most other Australians, Brisbanites are ness (just what South Bank needs!).
sports-mad. Catch some interstate or inter-
national cricket at the Gabba (Brisbane Crick- Record Exchange MUSIC

et Ground; Map p284; www.thegabba.org.au; 411
Vulture St, Woolloongabba), south of Kangaroo
Point. The cricket season runs from October
to March.
The Gabba is also the home ground for
the Brisbane Lions, an Australian Football
League (AFL; www.afl.com.au) team. Watch
them in action, often at night under lights,
between March and September.
Rugby league is also a big spectator sport.
The Brisbane Broncos, part of the National
Rugby League (NRL; www.nrl.com.au) compe-
tition, play home games over winter at Sun-
corp Stadium (Map p298; www.suncorpstadium.
com.au; 40 Castlemaine St, Milton).
Also calling Suncorp home are the
Queensland Roar football (soccer) team,
part of the A-League (www.footballaustralia.
com.au/aleague), attracting massive crowds in
recent years. The domestic football season
lasts from August to February.
7 Shopping
Queen Street Mall and the Myer Centre
in the CBD have big chain stores, upmarket
outlets and the obligatory touristy trash.
Smaller independent and specialist shops
are in Fortitude Valley and Paddington.
Title BOOKS
(Map p288; www.titlespace.com; 1/133 Grey St, South
Bank; h 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) Off-
beat and alternative art, music, photography
and cinema books, plus vinyl, CDs and DVDs –
(Map p288; www.recordexchange.com.au; L1, 65 Ad-
elaide St, Brisbane; h 9am-5pm) Home to an as-
tounding collection of vinyl, plus CDs, DVDs,
posters and other rock memorabilia. ‘Bris-
bane’s most interesting shop’ (self-professed).
Blonde Venus CLOTHING
(Map p292; www.blondevenus.com.au; 707 Ann
St, Fortitude Valley; h 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-
4.30pm Sun) One of the top boutiques in
Brisbane, Blonde Venus has been around for
20-plus years, stocking a well-curated selec-
tion of both indie and couture labels. One of
a string of great boutiques along this slice
of Ann St.
Archives Fine Books BOOKS
(Map p288; www.facebook.com/archivesfinebooks;
40 Charlotte St, Brisbane; h 10am-7pm Mon-Fri,
9am-5pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun) You could get
lost in here for hours: rickety bookshelves,
squeaky floorboards and upwards of half-a-
million secondhand books.
Paddington Antique Centre ANTIQUES
(Map p301; www.paddingtonantiquecentre.com.au;
167 Latrobe Tce; h 10am-5pm) The city’s biggest
antique emporium is inside a 1929 theatre,
with over 50 dealers selling all manner of his-
toric treasure/trash: clothes, jewellery, dolls,
books, ’60s Hawaiian shirts, lamps, musical
instruments, toys, WWII German helmets...
Avid Reader BOOKS
(Map p298; www.avidreader.com.au; 193 Boundary
St, West End; h 8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-
6pm Sat, 8.30am-5pm Sun) Diverse pages, a little

cafe in the corner and frequent readings and
bookish events: a real West End cultural hub.
World Wide Maps & Globes BOOKS
(Map p288; www.worldwidemaps.com.au; Shop 30,
Anzac Sq Arcade, 267 Edward St, Brisbane; h 9am-
6pm Mon-Thu, 9am-8pm Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) A
good assortment of maps and travel guides
(including camping and hiking guides).
88 Information
EMERGENCY
Ambulance, Fire, Police (% 000) Brisbane’s
police HQ is at 200 Roma St in the city.
Lifeline (% 13 11 14; www.lifeline.org.au) Crisis
counselling.
RACQ (Map p288; % 13 11 11; www.racq.com.
au) Automotive roadside assistance.
309
TOURIST INFORMATION
Brisbane Visitor Information Centre (Map
p288; % 07-3006 6290; www.visitbrisbane.com.
au; Queen St Mall, Brisbane; h 9am-5.30pm
Mon-Thu, 9am-7pm Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 10am-
5pm Sun) Located between Edward and Albert
Sts. Great info counter for all things Brisbane.
South Bank Visitor Information Centre (Map
p288; www.visitsouthbank.com.au; Stanley St
Plaza, South Bank; h 9am-5pm) Info on South
Bank plus tours, accommodation and transport
info and tickets to entertainment events.
Department of National Parks, Recreation,
Sport & Racing (Map p288; % 1300 130 372,
4WD permits % 13 74 68; www.nprsr.qld.gov.
au; L3, 400 George St, Brisbane; h 8.30am-
4.30pm Mon-Fri) Maps, brochures and books
on national parks and state forests, plus camp-
ing info and Fraser Island permits.

Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B r i sban e

INTERNET ACCESS 88 Getting There & Away
State Library of Queensland (www.slq.qld. AIR
gov.au; Stanley Pl, South Bank; h 10am-8pm
Brisbane Airport (www.bne.com.au) is about
Mon-Thu, 10am-5pm Fri-Sun) Quick 20-minute
16km northeast of the city centre at Eagle Farm,
terminals and free wi-fi.
and has separate international and domestic
Brisbane Square Library (www.brisbane.qld. terminals about 2km apart. These are linked by
gov.au; 266 George St, Brisbane; h 9am-6pm the Airtrain (% 07-3215 5000; www.airtrain.
Mon-Thu, 9am-7pm Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun) com.au), which runs every 15 to 30 minutes from
Free internet terminals and wi-fi access. 5.45am to 10pm (per person $5).
MEDICAL SERVICES BUS
Pharmacy on the Mall (% 07-3221 4585; www. Brisbane’s main terminus and booking office
pharmacies.com.au/pharmacy-on-the-mall; 141 for all long-distance buses and trains is the
Queen St, Brisbane; h 7am-9pm Mon-Thu, 7am- Brisbane Transit Centre (Roma St Station;
9.30pm Fri, 8am-9pm Sat, 8.30am-6pm Sun) Map p288; www.brisbanetransitcentre.com.au;
Royal Brisbane & Women’s Hospital (% 07- Roma St, Brisbane), about 500m west of the city
3636 8111; www.health.qld.gov.au/rbwh; cnr centre. Booking desks for Greyhound (www.
Butterfield St & Bowen Bridge Rd, Herston) Has greyhound.com.au) and Premier Motor Service
a 24-hour casualty ward. (www.premierms.com.au) are here.
CBD Medical Centre (% 07-3211 3611; www. Typical times and prices:
cbdmedical.com.au; L1, 245 Albert St, Bris-
bane; h 7.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm DURATION ONE-WAY
Sat, 9.30am-4pm Sun) General medical serv- DESTINATION (HR) FARE
ices and vaccinations. Byron Bay 4 $30-35
Travel Doctor (TMVC; % 07-3815 6900; www. Sydney 16-17 $105-180
traveldoctor.com.au; 75 Astor Tce, Spring Hill)
Airlie Beach 19-24w $220-240
Travellers’ medical services.
Cairns 29-34 $290-340
MONEY
Hervey Bay 5-7 $45-75
American Express (% 1300 139 060; www.
americanexpress.com; 260 Queen St, Brisbane; Mackay 16½-20 $205-215
h 8.30am-4pm Mon-Thu, 9am-5pm Fri) Lo- Noosa 2½-3 $30-35
cated within the Westpac bank.
Rockhampton 11-16 $150-175
Travelex (% 07-3210 6325; www.travelex.com.
au; Shop 149F, Myer Centre, Queen St Mall, Surfers 1½ $20-25
Brisbane; h 9am-5pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am- Paradise
8pm Fri, 10am-4pm Sun) Money exchange. Townsville 23-27 $255-275
POST
Main Post Office (GPO; Map p288; www.aus- CAR & MOTORCYCLE
post.com.au; 261 Queen St, Brisbane; h 7am- Brisbane has five major motorways (M1 to M5)
6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1.30pm Sat) run by Queensland Motorways (% 13 33 31;
310
www.qldmotorways.com.au). If you’re just pass-
ing through north–south/south–north, take the
Gateway Motorway (M1), which bypasses the
city centre ($4.05 toll; see the website for pay-
ment options, in advance or retrospectively).
Major car-hire companies – Avis (www.avis.
com.au), Budget (www.budget.com.au), Europ-
car (www.europcar.com.au), Hertz (www.hertz.
com.au) and Thrifty (www.thrifty.com.au) –
have offices at Brisbane Airport and in the city.
Smaller rental companies with branches near
the airport (and shuttles to get there):
Ace Rental Cars (% 1800 620 408; www.ace­
rentals.com.au; 330 Nudgee Rd, Hendra)
Apex Car Rentals (% 1800 121 029; www.
apexrentacar.com.au; 400 Nudgee Rd, Hendra)
East Coast Car Rentals (% 1800 028 881;
www.eastcoastcarrentals.com.au; 504 Nudgee
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B r i sban e
Road, Hendra)
TRAIN
Brisbane’s main station for long-distance trains
is Roma St Station (aka Brisbane Transit Centre).
For reservations and information contact the
Queensland Rail Travel Centre (% 13 16 17,
07-3235 1323; www.queenslandrail.com.au; 305
Edward St, Central Station) at Central Station.
Intra-Queensland routes from Brisbane include
the following:
Spirit of the Outback Brisbane–Longreach via
Rockhampton (economy seat/triple sleeper/
single sleeper $229/305/485, 24 hours, Tues-
day and Saturday).
Sunlander Brisbane–Cairns via Townsville
(economy seat/economy sleeper/1st-class
sleeper $265/340/480, 31 hours, Tuesday,
Thursday and Sunday).
Tilt Train Brisbane–Cairns (business seat
$360, 24 hours, Monday and Friday).
Westlander Brisbane–Charleville (econ-
omy seat/triple sleeper/single sleeper
$144/210/309, 17 hours, Tuesday and Thurs-
day).
CountryLink (% 13 22 32; www.countrylink.
info) Brisbane–Sydney (economy/1st class/
sleeper $131/184/263, 13 to 14 hours, daily).
88 Getting Around
Brisbane’s excellent public-transport network –
bus, train and ferry – is run by TransLink (% 13
12 30; www.translink.com.au).
Fares Buses, trains and ferries operate on a
zone system: most of the inner-city suburbs are
in Zone 1, which translates into a single fare of
$4.80/2.40 per adult/child.
Go Card To save around 30% on individual
fares, buy a Go Card ($5 starting balance),
which is sold (and recharged) at transit sta-
tions and newsagents, or by phone or online.
NightLink There are dedicated nocturnal
NightLink bus, train and fixed-rate taxi services
from the city and Fortitiude Valley: see www.
translink.com.au for details.
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Airtrain (adult/child $15/7.50) runs every 15 to
30 minutes from 5.45am to 10pm from the air-
port to Fortitude Valley, Central Station, Roma St
Station (Brisbane Transit Centre) and other key
destinations. There are also half-hourly services
to the airport from Gold Coast Citytrain stops.
If you prefer door-to-door service, Coachtrans
(% 07-5556 9888; www.coachtrans.com.au)
runs regular shuttle buses between the airport
and CBD hotels (adult/child $20/10); it also
connects Brisbane Airport to Gold Coast hotels
(adult/child $46/23).
A taxi into the centre from the airport will cost
$35 to $45.
BOAT
In addition to the fast CityCat (p293) services,
Translink runs Cross River Ferries, connecting
Kangaroo Point with the CBD, and New Farm
Park with Norman Park on the adjacent shore
(and also Teneriffe and Bulimba further north).
Free (yes free!) CityHopper Ferries zigzag
back and forth across the water between North
Quay, South Bank, the CBD, Kangaroo Point and
Sydney St in New Farm.
These additional services start around 6am
and run till about 11pm. For Cross River Ferries,
fares/zones apply as per all other Brisbane
transport.
BUS
Translink runs free City Loop and Spring Hill
Loop bus services that circle the CBD and Spring
Hill, stopping at key spots like QUT, Queen St
Mall, City Botanic Gardens, Central Station and
Roma St Parkland. It runs every 10 minutes on
weekdays between 7am and 6pm.
The main stops for local buses are the under-
ground Queen Street Bus Station (Map p288)
and King George Square Bus Station (Map
p288). You can also pick up many buses from the
stops along Adelaide St, between George and
Edward Sts.
Buses generally run every 10 to 30 minutes
Monday to Friday, from 5am till about 11pm, and
with the same frequency on Saturday morning
(starting at 6am). Services are less frequent at
other times, and cease at 9pm Sunday and at mid-
night on other days. CityGlider and BUZ services
are high-frequency services along busy routes.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
There is ticketed two-hour parking on many
streets in the CBD and the inner suburbs. Heed
the signs: Brisbane’s parking inspectors take
no prisoners. Parking is cheaper around South

Bank and the West End than in the city centre,
but is free in the CBD during the evening.
A GPS unit could be your best friend: Bris-
bane’s streets are organically laid-out and
convoluted.
TAXI
In the city there are taxi ranks at Roma St Sta-
tion and at the top end of Edward St, by the junc-
tion with Adelaide St. You might have a tough
time hailing one late at night in Fortitude Valley:
there’s a rank near the corner of Brunswick St
and Ann St, but expect long queues.
Black & White (% 13 32 22; www.blackand-
whitecabs.com.au)
Yellow Cab Co (% 13 19 24; www.yellowcab.
com.au)
TRAIN
31 1
MORETON BAY
Lapping at Brisbane’s urban verges, shallow
Moreton Bay is packed full of marine life,
including the eponymous Moreton Bay bugs
(crayfish-like crustaceans). The bay also has
some startlingly beautiful islands, easily ac-
cessible from the mainland. North Strad-
broke Island is a real stunner, with great
surfing beaches, marine life and nonchalant
holiday airs. On Moreton Island, wild dol-
phins and shipwrecks are the enticements.
T Tours
Humpback whales are a regular sight in the
bay between June and November when they
migrate to and from their southern feeding
grounds. Moreton Bay also has the largest

Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M o r e to n B ay

The fast Citytrain network has six main lines,
which run as far north as Gympie on the Sun-
shine Coast and as far south as Varsity Lakes on
the Gold Coast. All trains go through Roma St,
Central and Fortitude Valley Stations; there’s
also a handy South Bank Station.
resident population of bottlenose dolphins
in the world (more than 300).
Redlands Kayak Tours KAYAKING
(% 1300 529 258; www.redlandskayaktours.com.
au; per person/family $69/246) Three-hour

Brisbane & Moreton Bay 0

0
20 km
12 miles

Blackbutt
61
A3 Caloundra
85
M1
Bribie
Island
Crows Nest
Falls
National Caboolture Woorim
Park Moreton
Crows Esk
Nest Island
Tangalooma
Redcliffe
Highfields Brisbane
Airport Moreton
A2 Bay
Toowoomba Amity
A3 Point
A39 BRISBANE Manly
A2
Gatton Dunwich Point
Cambooya Cleveland Lookout
Rosewood Ipswich Victoria North
Point Stradbroke
Island
Nobby
M1
Clifton
Main Range
National Park
Allora
A15
Southport
Boonah
Cunningham’s
Gap Beaudesert Surfers
42
Spicer’s Paradise
Warwick Gap 13

Mt Barney Burleigh
A15 Queen Heads
Mary Falls National Park
Rathdowney Coolangatta
Tweed
Heads
31 2
guided kayak tours of the bay for grown-ups
and kids, departing various mainland loca-
tions. Shorter paddles also available.
Robinson Cruises CRUISE
(% 0408 872 316; www.robinsoncruises.com; Raby
Bay Harbour, Cleveland; per person from $99)
Two-hour evening yacht cruises of the bay,
with wildlife-spotting and lots of sunset ap-
preciation.
North Stradbroke Island
POP 2000
An easy 30-minute ferry chug from Cleve-
land, this unpretentious holiday isle is
like Noosa and Byron Bay rolled into one.
There’s a string of glorious powdery white
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef N OR T H S T R A D B RO K E I S L A N D
beaches, great surf and some quality places
to stay and eat. It’s also a hot-spot for spying
dolphins, turtles, manta rays and, between
June and November, hundreds of humpback
whales. ‘Straddie’ also boasts freshwater
lakes and 4WD tracks.
There are only a few small settlements on
the island, with a handful of accommoda-
tion and eating options – mostly near Point
Lookout. On the west coast, Dunwich is
where the ferries dock. Amity is a small
village on the northwestern corner. Much
of the island’s southern section is closed to
visitors because of sand mining.
1 Sights
At Point Lookout, the eye-popping North
Gorge Headlands Walk is an absolute high-
light. It’s an easy 20-minute loop around the
headland along boardwalks, with the thrum
of cicadas as your soundtrack. Keep an eye
out for turtles, dolphins and manta rays
offshore. The view from the headland down
Main Beach is a showstopper.
There are several gorgeous beaches
around Point Lookout. A patrolled swim-
ming area, Cylinder Beach is popular with
families and is flanked by Home Beach and
Deadman’s Beach. Further around the point,
Frenchman’s Beach is another peaceful, se-
cluded spot if you don’t mind the odd nud-
ist wandering past. Most of these spots have
surf breaks, too. Near the Headlands Walk,
surfers and bodyboarders descend on Main
Beach in search of the ultimate wave. Fisher-
folk take their 4WDs further down the beach
(permit required) towards Eighteen Mile
Swamp.
About 4km east of Dunwich, the tanin-
stained Brown Lake is the colour of stewed
tea, but is completely OK for swimming.
There are picnic tables, barbecues and a toi-
let at the lake. About 4km further along this
road, take the 2.6km (40-minute) bush track
to the sparkling Blue Lake, part of Naree
Budjong Djara National Park (www.nprsr.qld.
gov.au/parks/naree-budjong-djara). Look for forest
birds and skittish lizards along the way. Fur-
ther north towards Point Lookout, The Key-
holes is a freshwater lake and lagoon system.
There’s 4WD access via the beach – a permit
is required ($38.25 from Straddie Camping).
Once the ‘Dunwich Benevolent Asylum’ – a
home for the destitute – the small but impres-
sive North Stradbroke Island Historical
Museum (% 07-3409 9699; www.stradbrokemu-
seum.com.au; 15-17 Welsby St, Dunwich; adult/child
$3.50/1; h 10am-2pm Tue-Sat, 11am-3pm Sun) de-
scribes shipwrecks, harrowing voyages and
an introduction to the island’s rich Aboriginal
history (the Quandamooka are the traditional
owners of Minjerribah, aka Straddie). Island
artefacts include the skull of a sperm whale
washed up on Main Beach in 2004, and the
old Point Lookout lighthouse lens.
2 Activities
North Stradbroke ¨
Island Surf School SURFING
(% 0407 642 616; www.northstradbrokeislandsurf-
school.com.au; lessons from $50; h daily) Small-
group, 90-minute surf lessons in the warm
Straddie waves.
Straddie ¨
Adventures SEA KAYAKING, SANDBOARDING
(% 0417 741 963, 07-3409 8414; www.straddiead-
ventures.com.au; 132 Dickson Way, Point Lookout;
h daily) Hires out surfboards, snorkelling
equipment and bicycles, and runs sea-
kayaking trips (adult/child $60/45) and
sandboarding sessions ($30/25).
Bob Minty Surfboards SURFING
(% 07-3409 8334; www.bobmintysurfboards.com;
9 Mooloomba Rd, Point Lookout; per day surf-
boards/bodyboards $35/20; h daily) Surfboard
hire near Main Beach.
Straddie Super Sports BIKE HIRE
(% 07-3409 9252; 18 Bingle Rd, Dunwich;
h 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat, 9am-
2pm Sun) Hires out mountain bikes (per
hour/day $6.50/30) and has a huge range of
fishing gear.

Manta Scuba Centre DIVING
(% 07-3409 8888; www.mantalodge.com.au; 132
Dickson Way, Point Lookout) Based at the YHA,
Manta Scuba Centre runs snorkelling trips
($85), with a two-hour boat trip and all gear
included. A two-dive trip with all gear for
certified divers is $196. Scuba courses start
at $253; snorkel gear hire is $25.
T Tours
North Stradbroke Island 4WD ¨
Tours & Camping Holidays DRIVING TOUR
(% 07-3409 8051; www.stradbroketourism.com;
adult/child half-day $35/20, full day $85/55) Of-
fers 4WD tours around the Point Lookout
area, with lots of bush, beaches and wildlife.
Beach fishing is $45/30 per adult/child.
Straddie Kingfisher Tours DRIVING TOUR
(% 07-3409 9502; www.straddiekingfishertours.
com.au; adult/child island pick-up $80/40, from
Brisbane or Gold Coast $195/145) Operates six-
hour 4WD and fishing tours; also has whale-
watching tours in season. Ask about kayaking
and sandboarding options.
4 Sleeping
Straddie Camping CAMPGROUND $
(% 07-3409 9668; www.straddiecamping.com.au;
1 Junner St, Dunwich; 4WD campsite from $16.50,
unpowered/powered sites from $37/44, cabins from
$115; h booking office 8am-4pm) There are eight
island campgrounds operated by this outfit,
including two 4WD-only foreshore camps
(permits required, $38.25). The best of the
bunch are grouped around Point Lookout:
the campgrounds at Adder Rock and the
Home Beach both overlook the sand, while
the Cylinder Beach campground sits right
on one of the island’s best beaches. Book
well in advance; good weekly rates.
Manta Lodge YHA HOSTEL $
(% 07-3409 8888; www.mantalodge.com.au; 1 East
Coast Rd, Point Lookout; dm/d $32/82; iW ) This
three-storey, lemon-yellow hostel has clean
(if unremarkable) rooms and a great beach-
side location. There are jungly hammocks
out the back and a dive school downstairs.
Straddie Views B&B $$
(% 07-3409 8875; www.northstradbrokeisland.
com/straddiebb; 26 Cumming Pde, Point Lookout;
r from $150) There are two spacious down-
stairs suites in this B&B, run by a friendly
Straddie couple. Cooked breakfast is served
on the upstairs deck with fab sea views.
31 3
Stradbroke Island Beach Hotel HOTEL $$$
(% 07-3409 8188; www.stradbrokehotel.com.au;
East Coast Rd, Point Lookout; d from $235; a s )
Straddie’s only pub has 12 cool, inviting
rooms with shell-coloured tiles, blonde tim-
bers, high-end gadgets and balconies. Walk
to the beach, or get distracted by the open-
walled bar downstairs en route (serving
breakfast, lunch and dinner; mains $15 to
$36). Flashy three- and four-bed apartments
also available.
Allure APARTMENT $$$
(% 1800 555 200, 07-3415 0000; www.allurestrad-
broke.com.au; 43 East Coast Rd, Point Lookout; apt
from $216; aWs ) These large ultramodern
apartments are set in a leafy compound.
Each villa (or ‘shack’ as the one-bedrooms
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef N OR T H S T R A D B RO K E I S L A N D
are called) features lots of beachy colours,
original artwork and an outdoor deck with
barbecue. There isn’t much space between
villas, but they’re cleverly designed with
privacy in mind. Much cheaper for stays of
more than one night.
Pandanus Palms Resort APARTMENT $$$
(% 07-3409 8106; www.pandanuspalmsresort.com;
21 Cumming Pde, Point Lookout; 2-/3-bedroom
apt from $350/450; iW s ) High above the
beach, the two- and three-bed townhouses
here don’t have air-con and are a bit ’90s
style-wise, but they’re roomy and the best
ones have ocean views, private yards and
barbecues. There’s a tennis court, too.
5 Eating
Oceanic Gelati GELATI $
(% 07-3415 3222; 19 Mooloomba Rd, Point Look-
out; gelati from $3; h 9.30am-5pm) ‘OMG! This
is the best gelati ever!’ So says one satisfied
customer, and we’re in complete agreement.
Try the dairy-free tropical, cooling lemon or
classic vanilla.
Island Fruit Barn CAFE $
(16 Bingle Rd, Dunwich; mains $10-14; h 7am-5pm
Mon-Fri, 7am-4pm Sat & Sun; v ) On the main
road in Dunwich, Island Fruit Barn is a
casual little congregation of tables with ex-
cellent breakfasts, smoothies, salads and
sandwiches using top-quality ingredients.
Order a spinach-and-feta roll, then stock up
in the gourmet grocery section.
Look MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-3415 3390; www.lookcafebar.com; cnr East
Coast Rd & Mintee St, Point Lookout; mains $22-38;
h 8am-3pm daily, 6-9pm Thu-Sat) The hub of
the Point Lookout scene during the day, with
31 4
funky tunes and breezy outdoor seating with
water views. Lots of wines by the glass and
smokin’ chilli prawns.
Point Lookout Bowls Club PUB FARE $$
(% 07-3409 8182; www.pointlookoutbowlsclub.
com.au; East Coast Rd, Point Lookout; mains $9-25;
h 11.30am-2pm & 6-8pm) For casual pub grub
meals that won’t break the bank, head for the
local bowls club. The chef is from France –
could he be any further from home?
Fishes at the Point SEAFOOD $$
(www.fishesatthepoint.com.au; East Coast Rd, Point
Lookout; mains $10-25; h 8am-8pm Sat-Thu, 8am-
9pm Fri; W ) True to form, Fishes offers fresh
fish and chips, plus outdoor seating across
the road from the North Gorge Headlands
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M ORE TO N I S L A N D
Walk. A bit heavy on the batter, but you need
that after a surf.
88 Information
Although it’s quiet most of the year, the island
population swells significantly at Christmas,
Easter and during school holidays: book accom-
modation or camping permits well in advance.
If you plan to go off-road you can get informa-
tion and obtain a 4WD permit ($38.25) from
Straddie Camping (313).
88 Getting There & Away
The gateway to North Stradbroke Island is the
seaside suburb of Cleveland. Regular Citytrain
(www.translink.com.au) services run from Bris-
bane’s Central and Roma St stations to Cleve-
land station ($9.50, one hour); buses to the ferry
terminal meet the trains at Cleveland station
($4.80, 10 minutes).
Big Red Cat (% 1800 733 228, 07-3488 9777;
www.bigredcat.com.au; return per vehicle incl
passengers $146, walk-on adult/child $20/10;
h 5.15am-6pm Mon-Sat, 7am-7pm Sun) In a
tandem operation with Stradbroke Ferries, the
feline-looking Big Red Cat vehicle/passenger
ferry does the Cleveland–Dunwich run around
eight times daily (45 minutes).
Stradbroke Ferries (% 07-3488 5300; www.
stradbrokeferries.com.au; return per vehicle
incl passengers $146, walk-on adult/child
$20/10; h 5.15am-6pm Mon-Sat, 7am-7pm
Sun) Teaming up with Big Red Cat, Stradbroke
Ferries’ passenger and passenger/vehicle serv-
ices runs to Dunwich and back around 12 times
daily (passenger ferries 25 minutes, vehicle
ferries 45 minutes).
Gold Cats Stradbroke Flyer (% 07-3286
1964; www.flyer.com.au; Middle St, Cleveland;
return adult/child/family $19/10/50) Gold Cat
Stradbroke Flyer runs around a dozen return
passenger trips daily between Cleveland and
One Mile Jetty at Dunwich (30 minutes).
88 Getting Around
Straddie is big: it’s best to have your own wheels
to explore it properly. If not, Stradbroke Island
Buses (% 07-3415 2417; www.stradbrokebuses.
com) meet the ferries at Dunwich and run to
Amity and Point Lookout ($9.60 return). The last
bus to Dunwich leaves Point Lookout at 6.20pm.
There’s also the Stradbroke Cab Service
(% 0408 193 685), which charges around $60
from Dunwich to Point Lookout.
Moreton Island
POP 250
You’ll be reassured to learn that Moreton
Island’s cache of sandy shores, bushland,
bird life, dunes and glorious lagoons are
well protected – 95% of the isle is designated
national park (see www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/
parks/moreton-island).
The island has a rich history, from early
Aboriginal settlements to the site of Queens-
land’s first and only whaling station at Tan-
galooma, which operated between 1952 and
1962. These days, swimming, snorkelling
and 4WD trails keep visitors occupied (in
fact, the island is a 4WD-only destination).
Tangalooma now hosts the island’s sole re-
sort, and there are three other small settle-
ments on the west coast: Bulwer sits near
the northwestern tip, Cowan Cowan be-
tween Bulwer and Tangalooma, and Koor-
ingal is near the southern tip.
1 Sights & Activities
Dolphin feeding happens each evening
around sunset at Tangalooma, halfway down
the western side of the island. Around half-a-
dozen dolphins swim in from the ocean and
take fish from the hands of volunteer feeders.
You have to be a guest of the Tangalooma Is-
land Resort to participate, but onlookers are
welcome. The resort also organises whale-
watching cruises (June to October).
Just north of the resort, off the coast, are
the rusty Tangalooma Wrecks – 15 sunken
ships forming a sheltered boat mooring (and
a brilliant snorkelling spot!). You can hire
snorkelling gear from the resort, or Tanga-
tours (% 07-3410 6927; www.tangatours.com.au;
Tangalooma Island Resort) offers guided snor-
kelling trips around the wrecks ($45) as well
as guided paddleboarding ($59) and dusk
kayaking tours ($49).

Island bushwalks include a desert trail
(two hours) leaving from the resort, as
well as the strenuous trek up Mt Tempest
(280m), 3km inland from Eagers Creek –
worthwhile, but you’ll need transport to
reach the start.
Built in 1857 at the island’s northern tip,
Cape Moreton Lighthouse is the oldest op-
erating lighthouse in Queensland, and is the
place to come for great views if the whales
are passing by.
T Tours
Dolphin Wild ADVENTURE TOUR
(% 07-3880 4444; www.dolphinwild.com.au; New-
port Marina, Scarborough; per adult/child/family
incl lunch $125/75/325) These full-day ecotours
head out to Moreton Island with commen-
tary from a marine naturalist and guided
snorkel tours ($20/10 per adult/child)
around the Tangalooma wrecks. Transfers
from Brisbane and the Gold Coast available.
Adventure Moreton Island ADVENTURE TOUR
(% 1300 022 878; www.adventuremoretonisland.
com; 1-day tours from $129) Operated in ca-
hoots with Tangatours at Tangalooma Island
Resort, these tours offer a range of activities
(paddleboarding, snorkelling, sailing, kayak-
ing, fishing etc), ex-Brisbane. Overnight re-
sort accommodation packages also available
(including tour from $288).
Sunrover Tours ADVENTURE TOUR
(% 07-3203 4241, 1800 353 717; www.sunrover.com.
au; day tour adult/child $145/125, plus park fees
$30) A 4WD-tour operator with full-day and
longer (two- and three-day) camping tours.
Snorkelling, shipwrecks, bushwalks and
dolphin-spotting. Departs Brisbane.
Moreton Bay Escapes ADVENTURE TOUR
(% 1300 559 355; www.moretonbayescapes.com.
au; 1-day tours adult/child from $179/129, 2-day
camping tours $309/179) S A certified eco­tour,
the one-day 4WD tour includes snorkelling
or kayaking, sand-boarding, marine-wildlife
watching and a picnic lunch. Camp over-
night to see more of the isle.
Micat DRIVING TOUR
(% 07-3909 3333; www.micat.com.au; 1-day tours
adult/child from $159/130) Guided 4WD trips
with either an eco or adventure bent.
4 Sleeping
There are a few holiday flats and houses for
rent at Kooringal, Cowan Cowan and Bulwer:
see listings at www.moretonisland.com.au.
31 5
There are 10 national-park camp-
grounds (% 13 74 68; www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/
experiences/camping; sites per adult/child/family
$5.45/3/21.80) on Moreton Island, all with
water, toilets and cold showers; five camp-
grounds are on the beach. Book online or by
phone before you get to the island.
Tangalooma Island ¨
Resort HOTEL, APARTMENTS $$$
(% 07-3637 2000, 1300 652 250; www.tangalooma.
com; 1-night packages from $370; a i W s )
This beautifully sited place has the island
resort market cornered. There are abundant
sleeping options, starting with simple hotel
rooms. A step up are the units and suites,
where you’ll get beachside access and more
contemporary decor. The apartments range
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M ORE TO N I S L A N D
from two- to four-bedroom configurations.
The resort has several eating options; ac-
commodation prices generally include re-
turn ferry fares and transfers.
88 Information
There’s a small convenience store plus cafes,
restaurants and bars at the resort; otherwise,
bring food supplies from the mainland.
There are no paved roads on Moreton Island,
but 4WDs can travel along the beaches and
cross-island tracks (regular cars not permitted).
Permits for 4WDs cost $42.15 and are available
through ferry operators, online or via phone
from the Department of National Parks, Recrea-
tion, Sport & Racing (p309). Ferry bookings are
mandatory if you want to take a vehicle across.
Online, see www.visitmoretonisland.com.
88 Getting There & Around
Several ferries operate from the mainland. To
explore once you get to the island, bring a 4WD
on one of the ferries or take a tour (most tours
are ex-Brisbane, and include ferry transfers).
Tangalooma Flyer (% 07-3268 6333, shuttle
bus 07-3637 2000; www.tangalooma.com;
adult/child return $45/25) Fast passenger
catamaran operated by Tangalooma Island
Resort. It makes the 75-minute trip to the
resort three times daily from Holt St Wharf
in Brisbane (see the website for directions).
A shuttle bus (adult/child one way $20/10)
scoots to the wharf from the CBD or airport;
bookings essential.
Micat (www.micat.com.au; 14 Howard Smith
Dr, Port of Brisbane; return passenger adult/
child $50/35, vehicle incl 2 people $195-230)
Vehicle ferries from Port of Brisbane to Tanga-
looma around eight times weekly (75 minutes);
see the website for directions to the ferry
terminal.
316
Amity Trader (% 0487 227 437, 07-3820 6557;
www.amitytrader.com; vehicle & passengers
one way/return $135/250) Island hopping? The
vehicle ferry Amity Trader sails between Amity
Point on North Stradbroke Island and Kooringal
on Moreton Island’s southern tip, around four
times weekly (30 minutes).
Frequent Citytrain services run from
Brisbane to Caboolture, from where Bribie
Island Coaches (www.bribiecoaches.com.au)
connects to Bribie Island; regular Brisbane
Translink fares apply (one way $13.90).

Bribie Island
POP 16,200
Queensland’s only offshore island linked
to the mainland by bridge, Bribie is 70km
north of Brisbane at the top end of More-
ton Bay. Like Stradbroke and Moreton it’s a
sand island with protected bushland areas,
but it’s far more developed (read: suburban).
Still, there are some beaut beaches and
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef G o l d C oast
GOLD COAST
You might rub your eyes and do a double-take
as you approach the Gold Goast from afar:
fronting onto this iconic ribbon of surf beach-
es is a towering city of high-rise apartments,
totally at odds with the natural landscape.
Down at street level are eateries, bars and
theme parks that attract a perpetual stream
of sunburnt holidaymakers. The undisputed
fun capital is Surfers Paradise, where dizzying

remote campgrounds (p315) on the west and

north coasts, administered by the Depart-
ment of National Parks, Recreation, Sport &
Racing; book ahead. You’ll also need a 4WD
to access these areas, and a 4WD permit
($40.35 per week): pick one up via the Depart-
ment website (www.nprsr.qld.gov.au) or from
Gateway Bait & Tackle (% 07-5497 5253; www.
gatewaybaitandtackle.com.au; 1383 Bribie Island Rd,
Ningi; h 5.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 4.30am-6pm Sat,
4.30am-5pm Sun) on the mainland side of the
bridge to the island. For general island info,
head to the Bribie Island visitor informa-
tion centre (% 07-3408 9026; www.bribie.com.
au; Benabrow Ave, Bellara; h 9am-4pm).
If you’re not camping, the flashy new
multistorey On the Beach Resort (% 07-
3400 1400; www.onthebeachresort.com.au; 9 North
St, Woorim; 2-/3-bedroom apt from $205/275;
a s ) at Woorim out-luxes anything else on
the island and has great beach views. For
a superior spin on pub grub and bountiful
cold beer, try the Surf Club Bribie Island
nightlife sucks you in and spits you back out
exhausted. But the hype diminishes drastical-
ly away from Surfers: Broadbeach’s chic style
and Burleigh Heads’ seaside charm mellow
into Coolangatta’s laid-back surfer ethos.
z Festivals & Events
Big Day Out MUSIC
(www.bigdayout.com) Huge international mu-
sic festival in late January.
Tropfest FILM
(www.tropfest.com/au/surfers-paradise) This in-
ternational short-film fest comes to the Gold
Coast in February.
Quicksilver Pro SURFING
(www.aspworldtour.com) The world’s best surf-
ers hit the waves in mid-March; the first
comp of the annual world tour.
Surf Life-Saving ¨
Championships SURF LIFE-SAVING

(% 07-3408 2141; www.thesurfclubbribie.com.au; 2 (www.sls.com.au) In April: expect to see some

First Ave, Woorim; mains $14-30; h 11.30am-3pm incredibly fit people running about wearing
& 5.30-9pm). very little.

UNEXPECTED TREASURE: ABBEY MUSEUM

On the road to Bribie Island, 6km from the Bruce Hwy turn-off, is an astonishing art and
archaeology collection at the Abbey Museum (% 07-5495 1652; www.abbeymuseum.
com; 63 The Abbey Pl, Caboolture, off Old Toorbul Point Rd; adult/child/family $8.80/5/19.80;
h 10am-4pm Mon-Sat). The artefacts here span the globe and would be at home in any
of the world’s famous museums. Once the private collection of Englishman John Ward,
the pieces – including Neolithic tools, medieval manuscripts and ancient Roman, Greek,
Aztec and Japanese artefacts – will have you scratching your head in amazement. The
on-site church has more original stained glass from Winchester Cathedral than what is
actually left in the cathedral. If you’re here in July, make merry with 37,000 other history
boffins at Australia’s largest medieval festival (see www.abbeytournament.com).
 317

Gold Coast & Hinterland 0

0
10 km
5 miles

Brisbane Brisbane
(37km) (36km)

Jacobs
Well
M1 South Moreton
Bay Islands
mpama
OrmeauPi River
92
Ormeau National Park
Woogoompah
Island
R Coomera
rt Coomera Sanctuary Island South
be
Al Cove Stradbroke
Dreamworld & Island
Tamborine Mountain WhiteWater World Coomera
National Park 95 4
Paradise
Tamborine Point SOUTH
Warner Bros Oxenford

Broadwater
Movie World Helensvale PACIFIC

The
River a

Tamborine North OCEAN

Coomer

Mountain Tamborine Helensvale

(552m) Gold
Wet'n'Wild Hwy Coast

Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef G o l d C oast

2
Tamborine
Mountain Southport Sea World
National Park
M1
Main Beach
Beaudng Rd

Mt Tamborine
Nera

Nerang
Henri
Surfers Paradise
Nerang
esert-

90
Robert Dr Bundall
g
ran Broadbeach
Canungra Ne iver 90
R
Ck
ra

Advancetown
ton Mermaid
ng

ing nal Military

Beach
nu

Advancetown
Lam atio Rd Area 2
Ca

Lake Robina
ve

N ark Miami
Ri

P Mudgeeraba Robina 3
Gol
a

Rd
er

Pa
om

dC

97
Hwcifi Varsity Burleigh
nt
Co

oas

Heads
echmo

y c
tHw

David Fleay Palm Beach

y

99 Wildlife Park
Be

Binna Beechmont
M1 Currumbin
Burra Rd Currumbin Tugun
Rd

Wildlife Coolangatta
Sanctuary
brook

Numinbah Point
Valley Danger
Spring

Currumbin
Purling Rock Pools 98
Tweed
Brook Falls M1
Heads
Lamington Binna Springbrook Springbrook Tallebudgera
National Park Burra National Park Mountain NEW
(682m) SOUTH
Natural
Bridge WALES
Green
Mountains Best of Tweed Valley Way
All Lookout Mt Cougal (Former Pacific Hwy) Kingscliff
(694m) M1
Mt Toolona
(1190m) ed
Twever
Pacific

Ri
Hwy

Border Ranges
National Park Murwillumbah
Byron Bay
(40km)

Gold Coast Marathon MARATHON transformed into a temporary race circuit

(www.goldcoastmarathon.com.au) Forty-two kil-
ometres of pain in July.
Gold Coast 600 MOTORSPORTS
(www.surfersparadise.v8supercars.com.au) Three
days in October: the streets of Surfers are
for V8 Supercars.
Coolangatta Gold SURF LIFE-SAVING
(www.sls.com.au/coolangattagold) In October;
gruelling competition with surf-ski paddle,
31 8
beach runs, ocean swim, board paddle and
long beach run to finish.
Schoolies HOLIDAY
Month-long,
(www.schoolies.com/gold-coast)
hormone-fuelled party for school leavers
from mid-November to mid-December.
88 Getting There & Around
The international/national Gold Coast Airport
(www.goldcoastairport.com.au) is at Coolan-
gatta, 25km south of Surfers Paradise.
The Gold Coast Tourist Shuttle (% 07-5574
5111, 1300 655 655; www.gcshuttle.com.au; one-
way per adult/child $20/12) will meet your flight
and drop you at most Gold Coast accommodation;
book in advance. Con-X-ion Airport Transfers
(% 1300 266 946; www.cxn.com.au; one-way per
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef S
adult/child from $20/12) runs a similar service.
Citytrain services link central Brisbane with
Varsity Lakes station on the Gold Coast ($20.10,
75 minutes) roughly every half-hour. The same
line extends north of Brisbane to Brisbane Air-
port (one-way Brisbane Airport to Varsity Lakes
$36.10, 1¾ hours). Surfside Buslines (www.
surfside.com.au) runs regular shuttles from the
Varsity Lakes station down to Surfers ($6.70)
and beyond, and to the theme parks. Surfside
also offers a Freedom Pass including return Gold
Coast Airport transfers and unlimited theme
park transfers and local bus travel for $70/36
per adult/child, valid for three days.
Coachtrans (% 07-3358 9700, 1300 664
700; www.coachtrans.com.au) runs transfers
between Brisbane airport and most Gold Coast
accommodation (one way adult/child $46/230).
By the time you read this, the new Gold Coast
Rapid Transit (www.goldlinq.com.au) tram
Go
e tt
system might be operational, linking 16 stops
u
ld
over 13km between Southport and Broadbeach.
tihng
Until then, Translink buses are your best bet for
Cpoast
public transport.
oTrht e&r eM &
Southport & Main Beach
a iA
POP 28,300
nrBoeuac
The northern gateway to the Gold Coast,
incongruously named Southport is a low-
ndh
key residential and business district. It’s
sheltered from the ocean by a long sand-
bar called the Spit, home to one of the big
theme parks, Sea World. Directly southeast
is glorious, golden Main Beach, where the
apartment blocks begin their inexorable rise
towards Surfers Paradise.
1 Sights & Activities
The ocean side of the Spit at Main Beach is a
popular fishing spot: from here you can see
across the channel to South Stradbroke Is-
land. Opposite the entrance to Sea World, in
the car park of Phillip Park, is the start of the
Federation Walk, a pretty 3.7km trail run-
ning through patches of littoral rainforest
and connecting to the Gold Coast Ocean-
way (www.goldcoast.qld.gov.au/thegoldcoast/
oceanway-156.html), a 36km trail running from
here to Coolangatta.
Gourmet Farmers Market MARKET
(% 07-5555 6400; www.facebook.com/marinami-
ragefarmersmarket; Marina Mirage, 74 Seaworld Dr,
Main Beach; h 7-11am Sat) On Saturday morn-
ings, the spaces between boutiques at this
flashy mall fill with stalls selling seasonal
fruit and veg, baked goods, pickles, oils, vin-
egars, seafood, pasta...
Gold Coast Watersports PARASAILING
(% 0410 494 240; www.goldcoastwatersports.com;
Mariners Cove Marina, 60 Seaworld Dr, Main Beach;
per person from $65) Daily parasailing jaunts.
Jetboating and jetskiing also available.
Adventure Outlet SEA KAYAKING
(% 07-5571 2929; www.adventureoutlet.com.au;
Shop 5, 3 Jackman St, Southport; half-day tours incl
transfers $89) Sea kayaking trips out to sandy
South Stradbroke Island, with lots of wildlife
spotting.
Spirit of Gold Coast WHALE WATCHING
(% 07-5572 7755; www.goldcoastwhalewatching.
com; Mariners Cove Marina, Main Beach; 2½-3hr
tours adult/child $99/59) Spot some big wet
mammals between June and November.
Jet Ski Safaris
JETSKIING
(% 0409 754 538, 07-5526 3111; www.jetsk-
isafaris.com.au; Mariners Cove Marina, 60 Sea
World Dr, Main Beach; tours 30min/1hr/2hr from
$120/220/360) Zoom around the waterways
off Main Beach, or as far away as South
Stradbroke Island. No experience required.
4 Sleeping
Surfers Paradise ¨
YHA at Main Beach HOSTEL $
(% 07-5571 1776; www.yha.com.au; 70 Sea World Dr,
Main Beach; dm/d & tw $31/79; iW ) In a great
first-floor position overlooking the marina:
drop down over the balcony to access a pleth-
ora of water sports, cruises and tours. There
is a free shuttle bus, and barbecue nights eve-
ry Friday, and the hostel is within wobbling
distance of the Fisherman’s Wharf Tavern
(p320). Sky-blue dorms; very well organised.
 319

GOLD COAST THEME PARKS

The gravity defying rollercoasters and waterslides at these American-style parks offer
some seriously dizzy action – keeping your lunch down is a constant battle. Discount
tickets are sold in most of the tourist offices on the Gold Coast; the VIP Pass (per person
$110) grants unlimited entry to Sea World, Warner Bros Movie World and Wet’n’Wild.
Tip: arrive early or face a long walk from the far side of the car park.
¨¨Dreamworld (% 1800 073 300, 07-5588 1111; www.dreamworld.com.au; Dreamworld Pkwy,
Coomera; adult/child $95/75, online $90/70; h 10am-5pm) Home to the ‘Big 8 Thrill Rides’,
such as the Giant Drop and Tower of Terror II. Get your photo taken with Aussie animals
or a Bengal tiger at Tiger Island. Access to WhiteWater World included in ticket price.
¨¨Sea World (% 13 33 86, 07-5588 2222; www.seaworld.com.au; Sea World Dr, The Spit,
Main Beach; adult/child $83/50; h 9.30am-5.30pm) See polar bears, sharks, seals,
penguins and performing dolphins at this aquatic park, which also has the mandatory
rollercoasters and waterslides. Animal shows throughout the day.
¨¨Warner Bros Movie World (% 13 33 86, 07-5573 3999; www.movieworld.com.au; Pacific

Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef S

Hwy, Oxenford; adult/child $83/50; h 9.30am-5pm) Movie-themed shows, rides and
attractions, including the Batwing Spaceshot, Justice League 3D Ride and Scooby-Doo
Spooky Rollercoaster. Batman, Austin Powers, Porky Pig et al roam through the crowds.
¨¨Wet’n’Wild (% 13 33 86, 07-5556 1660; www.wetnwild.com.au; Pacific Hwy, Oxenford;
adult/child $60/35; h 10am-5pm) The ultimate waterslide here is the Kamikaze, where
you plunge down an 11m drop in a two-person tube at 50km/h. This vast water park also
has pitch-black slides, white-water rapids and wave pools.
¨¨WhiteWater World (% 1800 073 300, 07-5588 1111; www.whitewaterworld.com.au;
Dreamworld Parkway, Coomera; adult/child $95/75, online $90/70; h 10am-4pm) Connected
to Dreamworld; has waterslide rides like the Temple of Huey and the Cave of Waves. You
can learn to surf here too! Ticket price includes entry to Dreamworld.

Trekkers HOSTEL $
(% 07-5591 5616, 1800 100 004; www.trekkersback-
5 Eating & Drinking
packers.com.au; 22 White St, Southport; dm/d & tw
oProvidore CAFE $
(% 07-5532 9390; www.facebook.com/mirage-
$30/75; iWs ) You could bottle the friendly
market; Shop 27 Marina Mirage, 74 Sea World Dr,
vibes in this sociable old Queenslander and
Go u
Eat
Main Beach; mains $9-16; h 7am-6pm Sun-Wed,
make a mint. The building is looking a bit
7am-10pm Thu-Sat) Floor-to-ceiling windows
lid

tired, but the communal areas are homey

tng

rimmed with Italian mineral water bottles,

hCpoast

and the garden is a mini-oasis. Fun and

inverted desk lamps dangling from the ceil-
&o rDtr i&nk

easy-going, not big or flashy.

ing, good-looking Euro tourists, wines by
Main Beach Tourist Park CARAVAN PARK $ the glass, bread racks, cheese fridges and
(% 07-5667 2720; www.gctp.com.au/main; 3600 baskets overflowing with fresh produce: this
Miang

Main Beach Pde, Main Beach; powered sites/cabins excellent deli/cafe gets a lot of things right.
i n B e ac h

& villas from $44/121; aiWs ) Just across
the road from the beach and backed by a
phalanx of high-rise apartments, this cara-
van park is a family favourite. It’s a tight fit
between sites, but the facilities are decent.
Harbour Side Resort APARTMENT $$
(% 07-5591 6666; www.harboursideresort.com.
au; 132 Marine Pde, Southport; 1-/2-bedroom apt
$130/170; aiWs ) ‘Resort’ is a bit of a
stretch, and disregard the busy road: inside
this facelifted, three-storey place you’ll find
motel-style units with well-equipped kitch-
ens and a fab pool.
Order some polenta and eggs or some Birch-
er muesli and start your day with aplomb.
Peter’s Fish Market SEAFOOD, FISH & CHIPS $
(% 07-5591 7747; www.petersfish.com.au; Sea World
Dr, Main Beach; meals $9-16; h 9am-7.30pm, cook-
ing from noon) A no-nonsense fish market sell-
ing fresh and cooked seafood in all shapes
and sizes (and at great prices), fresh from
the trawlers moored out the front.
Sunset Bar & Grill MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-5528 2622; www.sunsetbarandgrill.com.au;
Shop 31, Marina Mirage, 74 Sea World Dr, Main Beach;
320
dishes $12-28; h 7am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7am-7pm Sat &
Sun) This umbrella-shaded, family-friendly
place by the water serves reasonably priced
(if predictable) steaks, salads, burgers and
Learn to carve up the waves with former pro
surfer Cheyne Horan. Board hire $30 per day.
Go Ride a Wave SURFING

seafood dishes. (% 1300 132 441; www.gorideawave.com.au; Shop

Fisherman’s Wharf Tavern PUB
(% 07-5571 0566; www.fishermanswharftavern.
com.au; Shop 40, Mariners Cove, Main Beach;
h 10am-late) This boisterous harbourside
pub – on a pier out over the water – is a
beers-from-10am kinda joint, and gets rau-
189, Centro Centre, Cavill Ave, Surfers Paradise; 2hr
lesson from $65, 3/5 lessons $180/260; h 9am-
5pm) Learn to surf in Surfers. Also rents out
surfboards (per day $45) and kayaks (per
day $80) and runs kids’ surf lessons.
Balloon Down Under BALLOONING

cous after dark on weekends. The kitchen (% 07-5500 4797; www.balloondownunder.com;

(mains $15 to $29, breakfast on weekends,
lunch and dinner daily) whips up reliable
burgers and fish-and-chips, plus curries,
steaks and big salads.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef S
1hr flights adult/child $299/240) Sunrise flights
over the Gold Coast ending with a cham-
pagne breakfast.
T Tours

Aqua Duck BOAT TOUR

Surfers Paradise & (% 07-5539 0222; www.aquaduck.com.au; 36

Broadbeach
Some say the surfers prefer beaches else-
where and paradise has been tragically lost,
but there’s no denying this wild and trashy
party zone attracts a phenomenal number of
visitors (20,000 per day!). Cashed-up tour-
ists swarm to Surfers Paradise (population
19,670) for a heady cocktail of clubs, bars,
malls and maybe a bit of beach-time when
the hangover kicks in. It’s a sexy place: lots
of shirtless, tattooed backpackers and more
cleavage than the Grand Canyon. But if
you’re looking for substance – with the nota-
ble exception of the Arts Centre – it’s a case
of ‘Move along, nothing to see here’.
The decibel level is considerably lower
Gu
Cavill Ave, Surfers Paradise; adult/child/family
$35/26/95; h every 75min 10am-5.30pm) Check
out Surfers by land and water in a boat with
wheels. One-hour tours depart from Surfers
Paradise Blvd outside Centre Arcade.
4 Sleeping
Gold Coast Accommodation
Service ACCOMMODATION SERVICES
(% 07-5592 0067; www.goldcoastaccommoda-
tionservice.com) Advice and bookings for GC
accommodation (particularly useful during
Schoolies!).
Sleeping Inn Surfers HOSTEL $
(% 07-5592 4455, 1800 817 832; www.sleepinginn.
com.au; 26 Peninsular Dr, Surfers Paradise; dm $28-

directly south in Broadbeach (population

iogrlhfdts

32, d & tw $68-114; iW s ) This backpackers

4650), which offers some chic restaurants occupies an old apartment block away from
eCroast

and a gorgeous stretch of golden shore. the centre, so, as the name suggests, there’s a
s& Pa

chance you may get to sleep in. Pizza nights,

1 Sights & Activities
Act

barbecue nights and pick-ups in a vintage

r ad

SkyPoint Observation ¨ limo.

i v iitsiee s& B r oadb e ac h

Deck LOOKOUT
Backpackers in Paradise HOSTEL $
(www.skypoint.com.au; Level 77, Q1 Bldg, Ham-
(% 07-5538 4344, 1800 268 621; www.backpackers-
ilton Ave, Surfers Paradise; adult/child/family
inparadise.com; 40 Peninsular Dr, Surfers Paradise;
$21/12.50/54.50; h 7am-8.30pm Sun-Thu, 7am-
dm $25-33, d $80; iW s ) If you’re in Surf-
11.30am Fri & Sat) Surfers’ sights are usually
ers to wage war against sleep, this party
spread across beach towels, but for an eagle-
backpackers is the place for you. Encircling
eye scope, zip up to this 230m-high observa-
a courtyard carpeted with astroturf, most
tion deck near the top of Q1, the 27th tallest
rooms are freshly painted and have bath-
building in the world. You can also tackle
rooms. The bar does cheap dinners – fuel-up
the SkyPoint Climb up the spire to 270m
before you hit the town.
high (adult/child from $69/49).
Surfers Paradise ¨
Cheyne Horan School of Surf SURFING
Backpackers Resort HOSTEL $
(% 1800 227 873; www.cheynehoran.com.au; 2hr
(% 07-5592 4677, 1800 282 800; www.surferspara-
lesson $49, 3/5 lessons $129/189; h 10am & 2pm)
disebackpackers.com.au; 2837 Gold Coast Hwy,
 321

LUKE EGAN: FORMER PRO SURFER

The Gold Coast is one of the top five surfing destinations in the world. The most unique
thing about the Goldy is that the waves break mostly on sand, so for sandy bottoms we
get some of the most perfect waves in the world.

Best Surf Beaches

The length of ride on the famous points of Burleigh Heads, Kirra, Rainbow Bay and
Snapper Rocks make the Goldy a must for every passionate surfer.

Where to Learn
The waves at Greenmount Point and Currumbin allow first-timers plenty of time to get
to their feet and still enjoy a long ride. Learning to surf at these two places would be
close to the best place to learn anywhere in Australia, and probably the world.

Best Experience
There isn’t a better feeling than being ‘surfed out’ – the feeling you have after a day of

Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef S

surfing. Even though I no longer compete on the world surfing tour I still surf every day
like it’s my last.

When not Surfing

I love mountain-bike riding in the hills close to Mt Warning, and catching up with friends
at one of the Gold Coast’s great cafes and restaurants.

Surfers Paradise; dm/d & tw from $29/74; iWs )
This bricky, motel-like hostel – on a busy
road and a fair hike from the action – has a
sporty vibe (pool room, tennis court), dorms
with bathrooms and surprisingly nice self-
contained apartments. There’s a free cour-
tesy bus to and from the Transit Centre.
Vibe Hotel HOTEL $$
(% 07-5539 0444, 13 84 23; www.vibehotels.com.
au; 42 Ferny Ave, Surfers Paradise; d $100-250;
a i W s ) Slick but affordable, this choco-
late and lime-green high-rise on the Nerang
This 20-storey high-rise just off the beach
has large, comfortable apartments, most
with full ocean views. Decor is a bit early-
2000s, but it’s a solid option and close to
everything.
Breakfree Cosmopolitan APARTMENT $$
(% 07-5570 2311; www.breakfree.com.au; cnr Surf-
ers Paradise Blvd & Beach Rd, Surfers Paradise;
1-/2-bedroom apt from $125/155; aWs ) Set
back from the beach but still central, this
complex contains 55 privately owned, self-
Gu
contained apartments, furnished by the own-
loerlefdpeC

River is a vibrant gem amongst Surfers’
bland plethora of hotels and apartments.
ers (so, a bit stylistically hit-and-miss). There’s
also a barbecue area, two pools and free park-
irng
oast
s Pa r ad i s e & B r oadb e ac h

The rooms are subtle-chic and the pool is
a top spot for sundowners. The aqua-view
rooms have Nerang River views.
Chateau Beachside Resort APARTMENT $$
(% 07-5538 1022; www.chateaubeachside.com.
au; cnr Elkhorn Ave & Esplanade, Surfers Paradise;
d/1-bedroom apt from $170/200; aiWs ) Less
Loire Valley, more Las Vegas, this seaside ‘cha-
teau’ (actually an 18-storey tower) is an ex-
cellent choice. All the renovated studios and
apartments have ocean views and the 18m
pool is a bonus. Minimum two-night stay.
Surfers International
Apartments APARTMENT $$
(% 07-5579 1299, 1800 891 299; www.surfersinter-
national.com.au; 7-9 Trickett St, Surfers Paradise;
1-bedroom apt $100-180, 2br $150-250; Ws )
ing. Minimum two-night stay in summer.
Wave APARTMENT $$$
(% 07-5555 9200; www.thewavesresort.com.au;
89-91 Surf Pde, Broadbeach; 1-/2-/3-bedroom apt
from $290/405/480; a i W s ) Towering over
glam Broadbeach, you can’t miss this funky
high-rise with its wobbly, wave-inspired fa-
cade. The plush pads here take full advan-
tage of panoramic coastal views (especially
good from the sky pool on the 34th floor).
Minimum three-night stay.
Artique APARTMENT $$$
(% 1800 454 442, 07-5564 3100; www.artiquere-
sort.com.au; cnr Surfers Paradise Blvd & Ender-
ley Ave, Surfers Paradise; 1-/2-bedroom apt from
$240/290; aWs ) One of several slick new
apartment towers at Surfers’ southern end,
322

Surfers Paradise e
#
0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
A B C D

444
Southport Sea World

D
D
Budds Ù (4.5km) (4km)
Beach # #
ú 13
Pine Av ¬
& 2

444
e

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re 444
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ve
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12 #
#
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û þ 17
#
Chevron û
#
Renaissance û 20
#

444
Shopping Centre 18 #

Orchid Ave
û
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef S

Circle on Cavill #
þ SOUTH
ú 14
# PA C I F I C
Gold Coast Cav

444
ill Ave OCEAN
Information &
1 #ï # Cavill Mal
Booking Centre l
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Surfers
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s # lar
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#
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# Pen &
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66
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444
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e

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66
&
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5 Surfers Paradise 5

444
eCroast

Backpackers
a

Resort (500m);
om
s Pa r ad i s e & B r oadb e ac h

Broadbeach û 16
#
aR

(2.5km)

444
e
Vi

A B C D

Artique (which is certainly not antique)
features a curvy facade, glazed balustrades,
muted charcoal-and-cream tones, classy
kitchens and babbling fountains. Minimum
stays apply (usually three nights).
a lagoon-style pool and a fitness centre if the
beach doesn’t exhaust you. The very sassy
French restaurant Absynthe (% 07-5504
6466; www.absynthe.com.au; mains $48; h 6-
10pm Tue-Sat) is here, too.

Q1 Resort APARTMENT $$$

(% 07-5630 4500, 1300 792 008; www.q1.com.au;
Hamilton Ave, Surfers Paradise; 1-/2-/3-bedroom
apt from $318/325/666; aiWs ) Spend a
night in the world’s 27th-tallest building!
It’s a slick resort with a mod mix of metal,
glass and fabulous wrap-around views. All
units have glass-enclosed balconies. There’s
5 Eating
Broadbeach’s culinary scene is a class above
Surfers’, where quantity often trumps quality.
Bumbles Café CAFE $
(% 07-5538 6668; www.bumblescafe.com; 21 River
Dr, Surfers Paradise; mains $9-27; h 7am-3pm Fri-
Wed, 7am-10pm Thu) Chilled-out, grey-painted

Surfers Paradise
æ Sights
SkyPoint Observation Deck........ (see 8)
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
1 Aqua Duck............................................C3
2 Cheyne Horan School of Surf.............C3
3 Go Ride a Wave....................................C3
ÿ Sleeping
4 Artique..................................................C5
5 Backpackers in Paradise ....................B3
6 Breakfree Cosmopolitan.....................C3
7 Chateau Beachside Resort.................C2
8 Q1 Resort..............................................C4
9 Sleeping Inn Surfers............................B4
10 Surfers International
Apartments .......................................C3
11 Vibe Hotel.............................................B2
ú Eating
Absynthe ...................................... (see 8)
12 Baritalia ................................................C2
13 Bumbles Café ...................................... B1
14 Kamikaze Teppanyaki.........................C3
Surfers Sandbar ...........................(see 7)
û Drinking & Nightlife
15 Beergarden ..........................................C3
16 BMD Northcliffe Surf Club..................D5
17 Shuffle ..................................................C2
18 Sin City .................................................C2
19 Titanium Bar ........................................B2
20 Vanity....................................................C2
corner cafe opposite shallow Budds Beach
on the Nerang River. Order a FAT (feta, avo-
cado and tomato on toast) and enjoy a few
minutes away from the fray.
Burrito Bar MEXICAN $
(% 07-5538 0370; www.theburritobar.com.au; Shop
113, Wave Bldg, 88-91 Surf Pde, Broadbeach; items
$4-11; h 10am-late; W ) Mexican street-food of-
ferings: Baja fish tacos, pulled-pork nachos,
chipotle steak burritos... Order a few things
to fill up. Wicked murals inside!
Baritalia ITALIAN $$
(% 07-5592 4700; www.baritaliagoldcoast.com.au;
Shop 15, Chevron Renaissance Bldg, cnr Elkhorn
Ave & Surfers Paradise Blvd, Surfers Paradise; mains
$15-35; h 7.30am-late) Perfect for people-
watching, this Italian bar and restaurant has
a fab outdoor terrace and hip international
staff. Go for the chilli seafood broth with
Moreton Bay bugs, saffron and capers, or
excellent pastas, pizzas and risotto. Decent
wines by the glass (mostly from South Aus-
32 3
tralia, Western Australia and New Zealand)
and good coffee.
Surfers Sandbar MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(www.facebook.com/surferssandbar; cnr Elkhorn
Ave & Esplanade, Surfers Paradise; mains $12-32;
h 6.45am-late) The menu is predictable –
burgers, fish-and-chips, steak sandwiches,
pizza – but beachside prominence gives this
cafe/bar the edge over most Surfers eateries.
Forgo the pubby indoor space and chow-
down on the terrace (you can hear lifesavers
berating absent-minded swimmers across
the street).
Koi MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-5570 3060; www.koibroadbeach.com.au;
Wave Bldg, cnr Surf Pde & Albert Ave, Broadbeach;
mains breakfast $14-21, lunch & dinner $18-40;
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef S
h 7am-late) This cruisy cafe/bar is the pick
of the Surf Pde eateries in Broadbeach.
Fast-moving, black-clad waitstaff shuffle out
plates of risotto, pasta, gourmet pizza, tapas,
seafood and Koi beans (with poached eggs,
chorizo, crispy onion and balsamic reduc-
tion).
Kamikaze Teppanyaki JAPANESE $$
(% 07-5592 0888; www.kamikaze.net.au; Shop
12A, Circle on Cavill, 55 Cavill Ave, Surfers Paradise;
dishes $8-33; h 11.30am-late) Popular alfresco
Japanese restaurant. Sit next to the skillet
and the egg-flippin’ chef, or outside with
big-screen sports views.
Moo Moo STEAKHOUSE $$$
(% 07-5539 9952; www.moomoorestaurant.com;
Broadbeach on the Park, 2486 Gold Coast Hwy,
Gu
D r
or
Broadbeach; mains $29-69; h noon-3pm & 6pm-
ilnk
fdeCirng
late) A carnivorous mecca, Moo Moo’s win-
ning steaks include lots of wagyu and a
oast
s Pa
400g, 50-day dry-aged rib eye on the bone.
& rNad
There’s also seafood and pasta on the menu.
Love the cowhide-clad bar!
igh
i stel i&f eB r oadb e ac h
6 Drinking & Nightlife
Orchid Ave is Surfers’ club strip. Cover
charges are usually $10 to $20; Wednesday
and Saturday are the big party nights. You
can tag along with other boozy backpackers
on club crawls organised by Plan B Party
Tours (% 1300 721 570; www.planbtours.com;
tickets $60): tickets get you in to five clubs
and take the hassle out of the experience.
Big Night Out (www.goldcoastbackpackers.net;
tickets $30) and Wicked Club Crawl (% 07-
5504 7025; www.wickedclubcrawl.com.au; tickets
$30-50) are similar (but with four clubs).
324
Titanium Bar BAR
(www.titaniumbar.com.au; 30-34 Ferny Ave, Surfers
Paradise; h 10am-late) Unless you like Irish
pubs, this metallic-looking bar is the best
drinking spot in town, perfect for a beer or
six as the sun sets over the Nerang River.
Beergarden BAR
(www.surfersbeergarden.com.au; Cavill Ave, Surfers
Paradise; h 10am-5am) Not so much a garden –
more of a black-painted beer barn overlook-
ing Cavill Ave. Steel yourself with a few cold
ones before you hit the clubs, or catch live
bands on Saturday nights or reggae on Sun-
day afternoons.
BMD Northcliffe Surf Club SURF CLUB
(www.northcliffesurfclub.com.au; cnr Garfield Tce &
Thornton St, Surfers Paradise; h 7.30am-late) A lit-
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B
tle south of Cavill Mall, this surf club squats
directly on the beach. It’s big and brash with
zero intimacy (like Surfers itself), but the
sweeping surf views go well with a coldie on
a hot day. Good food, too.
Sin City CLUB
(www.sincitynightclub.com.au; 22 Orchid Ave, Surf-
ers Paradise; h 9pm-late) This Vegas-style sin
pit is the place for wrongdoings: sexy staff,
big-name DJs and visiting celebs trying not
to get photographed.
Shuffle CLUB
(www.platinumnightclub.com.au/shuffle-nightclub;
Shop 15b, The Forum, 26 Orchid Ave, Surfers Para-
dise) Shuffle into Shuffle for an intimate club
experience, with dirty underground house
and a backpacker-heavy crowd (less red car-
Gu
Ent
or
pet, more downmarket).
l ed
l reCta
Vanity CLUB
i goast
(www.vanitynightclub.com.au; 26 Orchid Ave, Surf-
hi nm
ers Paradise; h 5am-5pm) ‘Because it’s all about
H eeads
you’ at Vanity, one of the glammest clubs in
nt
town, which digs deep into the sexy market-
ing book of tricks. Dress to the nines; no vis-
ible tatts.
3 Entertainment
Arts Centre Gold Coast THEATRE, CINEMA
(% 07-5588 4000; www.theartscentregc.com.au;
135 Bundall Rd, Surfers Paradise; h box office 8am-
9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat, 11am-7pm Sun) A bas-
tion of culture and civility beside the Nerang
River, the Arts Centre has two cinemas, a
restaurant, a bar, the Gold Coast City Gal-
lery and a 1200-seat theatre, which regularly
hosts impressive productions (comedy, jazz,
opera, kids’ concerts etc).
88 Information
Gold Coast Information & Booking Centre
(% 1300 309 440; www.visitgoldcoast.com;
Cavill Ave, Surfers Paradise; h 8.30am-5pm
Mon-Sat, 9am-4pm Sun) The main GC tour-
ist information booth; also sells theme-park
tickets and has public transport info.
Backpackers World Travel (% 07-5561 0634;
www.backpackerworldtravel.com; Islander
Resort, 6 Beach Rd, Surfers Paradise; h 10am-
6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, 10am-4pm
Sun) Accommodation, tour and transport book-
ings and internet access.
Gold Coast Hospital (% 07-5519 8211; www.
health.qld.gov.au/goldcoasthealth; 108 Nerang
St, Southport)
Surfers Paradise Day & Night Medical Cen-
tre (% 07-5592 2299; 3221 Surfers Paradise
Blvd, Surfers Paradise; h 6am-11pm) General
medical centre and pharmacy. Make an ap-
pointment or just walk in.
Paradise Medical Centre (% 07-5592 3999;
Centro Surfers Paradise, Cavill Mall, Surfers
Paradise; h 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-11pm
Sat) General medical services by appointment.
88 Getting There & Around
Long-distance buses stop at the Surfers Para-
dise Transit Centre (10 Beach Rd, Surfers Para-
dise). Greyhound (www.greyhound.com.au) and
Premier Motor Service (www.premierms.com.
au) have frequent services to/from Brisbane
($26, 90 minutes), Byron Bay ($30, 2½ hours)
and beyond.
Bike Hire Gold Coast (% 1800 130 140; www.
bikehiregoldcoast.com.au; bike hire per half/
full day $25/30) Quality mountain bikes deliv-
ered to your door. Good weekly rates.
East Coast Car Rentals (% 1800 028 881, 07-
5592 0444; www.eastcoastcarrentals.com.au;
80 Ferny Ave, Surfers Paradise) Car hire from
around $35 per day.
Gold Coast Cabs (% 13 10 08; www.gccabs.
com.au)
Red Back Rentals (% 07-5592 1655; www.red-
backrentals.com.au; Transit Centre, 10 Beach
Rd, Surfers Paradise) Car hire from around
$50 per day.
Scooter Hire Gold Coast (% 07-5511 0398;
www.scooterhiregoldcoast.com.au; 3269 Surf-
ers Paradise Blvd, Surfers Paradise) Scooter
hire (50cc) from around $65 per day.
Burleigh Heads
POP 9200
The true, sandy essence of the Gold Coast
permeates the chilled-out surfie town of
Burleigh Heads. With its cheery cafes and

beachfront restaurants, famous right-hand
point break, beautiful beach and little na-
tional park on the rocky headland, Burleigh
charms everyone. Nearby Currumbin also
has great waves.
1 Sights & Activities
Burleigh Head National Park NATIONAL PARK
(www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/burleigh-head; Good-
win Tce; h 24hr) F A walk around the head-
land through Burleigh Head National Park
is a must for any visitor – it’s a 27-hectare
rainforest reserve with plenty of bird life
and several walking trails. Great views of the
Burleigh surf en route.
Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary WILDLIFE PARK
(% 07-5534 1266, 1300 886 511; www.cws.org.
au; 28 Tomewin St, Currumbin; adult/child/family
$49/33/131; h 8am-5pm) Currumbin Wildlife
Sanctuary has Australia’s biggest rainforest
aviary, where you can hand-feed a technicol-
our blur of rainbow lorikeets. There’s also
kangaroo feeding, photo ops with koalas
and crocodiles, reptile shows and Aboriginal
dance displays. It’s cheaper after 3pm. See
the website for details on coach transfers
from the north or south (return from $15).
David Fleay Wildlife Park WILDLIFE PARK
(% 07-5576 2411; www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/dav-
id-fleay; cnr Loman La & West Burleigh Rd, West Bur-
leigh; adult/child/family $19/9/48; h 9am-5pm)
Opened by the doctor who first succeeded
in breeding platypuses, this wildlife park has
4km of walking tracks through mangroves
and rainforest and plenty of educational and
informative shows throughout the day. It’s
an excellent opportunity to experience Aus-
tralian fauna. It’s around 3km inland from
Burleigh Heads.
Jellurgal Cultural Centre INDIGENOUS CULTURE
(% 07-5525 5955; www.jellurgal.com.au; 1711 Gold
Coast Hwy; h 8am-4pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun)
SF This new Aboriginal cultural cen-
tre at the base of Burleigh’s headland sheds
some light on life here hundreds of years
ago. There’s lots of art and artefacts to look
at, plus an interpretive multimedia board-
walk. Ask about daily tours (additional cost).
Currumbin Rock Pools SWIMMING
(www.gcparks.com.au/park-details.aspx?park=1751;
Currumbin Creek Rd, Currumbin Valley; h 24hr)
F The natural swimming holes at Cur-
rumbin Rock Pools are a cool spot during
the hot summer months, with grassy banks,
barbecues and rocky ledges from which
32 5
teenagers plummet. It’s 14km up Currumbin
Creek Rd from the coast.
Surfing Services Australia SURFING
(% 07-5535 5557; www.surfingservices.com.au;
adult/child $35/25) Surfing lessons at Cur-
rumbin every weekend (daily during school
holidays).
Hotstuff Surfboards SURFING
(% 07-5535 6899; www.goldcoastsurf.com.au; 1709
Gold Coast Hwy; h 9am-5pm) Hotstuff rents out
surfboards (minimals, soft boards and body-
boards) per half/full day for $30/40.
Gold Coast Skydive SKYDIVING
(% 07-5599 1920; www.goldcoastskydive.com.au;
tandem dives from $345) Plummet out of the
sky from 12,000 feet up? Go on – you know
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B
you want to!
4 Sleeping
Burleigh Beach Tourist Park CARAVAN PARK $
(% 07-5667 2750; www.goldcoasttouristparks.com.
au; 36 Goodwin Tce; unpowered/powered sites from
$30/41, cabins $151-219; a i W s ) This coun-
cil-owned park is snug, but it’s well run and
in a great spot near the beach. Aim for one
of the three blue cabins at the front of the
park.
Burleigh Palms Holiday
Apartments APARTMENT $$
(% 07-5576 3955; www.burleighpalms.com; 1849
Gold Coast Hwy; 1-bedroom apt per night/week
from $150/550, 2-bedroom apt from $180/660;
aWs ) Even though they’re on the highway,
G iu
S
these large and comfortable self-contained
ogr
units – a quick dash to the beach through
lhd
lts
the back alley – are solid value. The owners
eCi goast
have a wealth of local info, and do the clean-
&h Act
ing themselves to keep the accommodation
H e ads
costs down.
ivities
Hillhaven Holiday Apartments APARTMENT $$
(% 07-5535 1055; www.hillhaven.com.au; 2 Good-
win Tce; 2-bedroom apt from $180; i W ) Right
on the headland adjacent to the national
park, these renovated apartments – the pick
of which is the gold deluxe room at $300
per night – have awesome views of Burleigh
Heads and the surf. It’s ultra quiet and only
150m to the beach.
Wyuna APARTMENT $$
(% 07-5535 3302; www.wyunaapartments.com.au;
82 The Esplanade; 2-/3-bedroom apt per week from
$675/950; W ) Large, old-fashioned apart-
ments in a great location opposite the beach.
326
They’re individually owned, so the decor is
mixed. This was one of the first high-rises
on the Gold Coast! Weekly stays preferred.
5 Eating & Drinking
oBorough Barista CAFE $
(www.facebook.com/pages/borough-barista/
236745933011462; 14 The Esplanade; mains $10-17;
h 6am-2.30pm) A little open-walled caffeine
shack with a simple menu of burgers and
salads and an unmistakable panache when
it comes to coffee. The grilled haloumi burg-
er with mushrooms, caramelised onions and
chutney will turn you vegetarian. Cool tunes
and friendly vibes.
Bluff Café CAFE $$
(% 07-5576 6333; Old Burleigh Theatre Arcade, 1/66
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C
Goodwin Tce; mains $15-23; h 7am-3pm Mon & Tue,
7am-9pm Wed-Sun) Cheery, breezy cafe oppo-
site the beach in the curious old Burleigh
Theatre building. Excellent pizza, pasta and
big breakfasts (try the Spanish eggs)...and
you can wear your bathing suit!
Oskars SEAFOOD $$$
(% 07-5576 3722; www.oskars.com.au; 43 Goodwin
Tce; mains $38-43; h 10am-midnight) One of the
Gold Coast’s finest, this ooh-la-la restaurant
right on the beach serves award-winning
seafood and has sweeping views up the coast
to Surfers. Go for the spanner crab souffle
and the satay spiced green prawns.
Fish House SEAFOOD $$$
(% 07-5535 7725; www.thefishhouse.com.au; 50
Goodwin Tce; mains $36-46; h noon-3pm & 6-9pm
Goo
Eat
Wed-Sun) This stylish red-brick box across the
lidlng
road from the beach goes heavy on the un-
angatta
derwater stuff: whiting, swordfish, trevalla,
C oast
& D r i nk i ng
John Dory...all locally caught or imported
fresh from interstate. Dress in decent duds
and be prepared to speak loudly.
Pointbreak Bar & Grill BAR
(% 07-5535 0822; www.pointbreakburleigh.com; 43
Goodwin Tce; h noon-late) Unwind with a sun-
downer and some tapas ($12 to $14) at this
chic waterfront bar and restaurant. Dress
nice.
Coolangatta
POP 5200
A laid-back seaside town on Queensland’s
southern border, Coolangatta has quality
surf beaches and a tight-knit community.
If you want to bypass the glam and party
scene, catch some great waves or just kick
back on the beach, ‘Cooly’ is for you. North
of the point, Kirra has a beautiful long
stretch of beach with challenging surf.
2 Activities
Cooly Surf SURFING
(% 07-5536 1470; www.surfshopaustralia.com.au; cnr
Marine Pde & Dutton St; h 9am-5pm) Cooly Surf
hires out surfboards (half/full day $30/45)
and stand-up paddleboards ($40/55), and
runs two-hour surf lessons ($45).
Walkin’ on Water SURFING
(WoW; % 0418 780 311, 07-5534 1886; www.walkin­
onwater.com; per person $50) Two-hour surf
lessons on the main beach at Cooly.
Rainforest Cruises CRUISE
(% 07-5536 8800; www.goldcoastcruising.com; 2hr
cruises from $40) These guys have cruise op-
tions ranging from crab-catching to surf ‘n’
turf lunches on rainforest cruises along the
Tweed River.
4 Sleeping
oKomune HOTEL, HOSTEL $
(% 07-5536 6764; www.komuneresorts.com; 146
Marine Pde; dm from $45, 1-/2-bedroom apt from
$105/145, penthouse from $245; W s ) With
beach-funk decor, Bali-esque pool area and
an ultra laid-back vibe, this eight-storey con-
verted apartment tower is the ultimate surf
retreat. There are budget dorms, apartments
and a hip penthouse begging for a party. A
different take on the hostel concept.
Kirra Beach Tourist Park CARAVAN PARK $
(% 07-5667 2740; www.goldcoasttouristparks.com.
au; 10 Charlotte St; unpowered/powered sites
$30/37, cabins from $138; a i W s ) Large
council-run park with plenty of trees, wan-
dering ibises and a well-stocked open-air
camp kitchen. Good-value self-contained
cabins; a few hundred metres to the beach.
Coolangatta Sands Hostel HOSTEL $
(% 07-5536 7472; www.coolangattasandshostel.com.
au; cnr Griffith & McLean Sts; dm/d from $30/80;
aiW ) Above the boozy Coolangatta Sands
Hotel, this hostel is a warren of rooms and
corridors, but there’s a fab wrap-around bal-
cony above the street (no booze allowed – go
downstairs to the pub). Red chesterfields in
the TV room if it’s raining.
Coolangatta YHA HOSTEL $
(% 07-5536 7644; www.yha.com.au; 230 Cool-
angatta Rd, Bilinga; dm $27-34, s/d from $42/67;

iWs) A looong 4km haul from the action
in an industrial pocket next to the noisy air-
port, this YHA is redeemed by free breakfast,
free transfers to Coolangatta and the beach
across the road. You can also hire surfboards
($20 per day) and bikes ($25).
Nirvana APARTMENT $$$
(% 07-5506 5555; www.nirvanabythesea.com.au;
1 Douglas St; 2-/3-bedroom apt from $205/365)
Attaining some sort of salty nirvana across
from Kirra beach, this sleek new apartment
tower comes with all the bells and whistles:
two pools, gym, cinema room, ocean views
and sundry salons.
5 Eating & Drinking
Burger Lounge BURGERS $
(% 07-5599 5762; www.burgerlounge.com.au; cnr
Musgrave & Douglas Sts; mains $10-17; h 10am-
9pm Thu-Tue, 11am-9pm Wed) Awesome bun-
fest in a triangular-shaped room at the base
of the Nirvana apartment tower. The chick-
en and mango chilli burger is a winner! Lots
of good beers, cocktails and wines too, and
sangria by the jug.
Bread ‘n’ Butter TAPAS, BAR $$
(% 07-5599 4666; www.breadnbutter.com.au; 76
Musgrave St; tapas $13-22, pizzas $19-25; h 5.30-
late) S Head upstairs to the Bread ‘n’ Butter
balcony, where moody lighting and chilled
tunes make this tapas bar perfect for a drink,
some pizza or some tapas (or all three). Uses
local and home-grown produce and recycles
precisely 78% of waste. DJs spin on Friday
and Saturday nights.
Coolangatta Hotel PUB
(www.thecoolyhotel.com.au; cnr Marine Pde &
Warner St; h10am-late) The hub of Cool-
angatta’s nocturnal scene, this huge pub
right across from the beach has live bands
(Grinspoon, the Reubens, Dinosaur Jnr),
sausage sizzles, pool comps, trivia nights,
acoustic jam nights, pub meals, the works.
Big Sunday Sessions.
GOLD COAST
HINTERLAND
Inland from the surf, sand and half-naked
bods on the Gold Coast, the densely forested
mountains of the McPherson Range feel a
million miles away. There are some brilliant
national parks here, with subtropical jungle,
waterfalls, lookouts and rampant wildlife.
32 7
Springbrook National Park is arguably the
wettest place in southeast Queensland, with
cool air and a dense sea of forest. Laming-
ton National Park attracts birdwatchers and
hikers; Tamborine Mountain lures the craft/
cottage weekend set.
T Tours
Bushwacker Ecotours ECOTOUR
(% 07-3848 8806, 1300 559 355; www.bushwacker-
ecotours.com.au; tours adult/child from $125/95)
S Ecotours to the hinterland with rainfor-
est walks in Springbrook National Park.
Mountain Coach Company TOUR
(% 1300 762 665, 07-5524 4249; www.mountain-
coach.com.au) Daily tours from the Gold
Coast to Tamborine Mountain (adult/child
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef TA M B ORI N E M OU N TA I N
$59/49), Lamington National Park ($84/54)
and Springbrook National Park ($89/57).
Transfer-only prices also available ex-Gold
Coast (Tamborine Mountain adult/child
$30/20; Lamington National Park $50/20).
Araucaria Ecotours ECOTOURS
(% 07-5544 1283; www.learnaboutwildlife.com) S
Eco-attuned day tours including birdwatch-
ing ($154) and Tamborine Mountain ($165).
JPT Tour Group TOUR
(% 07-56301602; www.daytours.com.au; tours from
adult/child $99/57) A variety of day tours ex-
Brisbane or Gold Coast, including Lamington
National Park via Tamborine Mountain and
nocturnal glowworm tours to Natural Bridge.
Tamborine Mountain
Just 36km northwest of Southport is Tam-
borine Mountain (525m), a squat plateau
known for its quaint/kitsch shops selling
homemade sweets and tacky Australian
souvenirs. There are a few winery cellar
doors here too (though the wineries them-
selves are mostly in Stanthorpe, 200km
southwest).
The Tamborine Mountain visitor in-
formation centre (% 07-5545 3200; www.
tamborinemtncc.org.au; Doughty Park, Main West-
ern Rd, North Tamborine; h 10am-4pm Mon-Fri,
9.30am-4pm Sat & Sun) is in North Tamborine.
1 Sights & Activities
Tamborine National Park NATIONAL PARK
(www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/tamborine) There
are some beautiful spots in the 1500-hectare
Tamborine National Park, including impres-
sive cascades at Witches Falls, Cedar Creek
328
Falls and Curtis Falls, accessed via easy-to-
moderate walking trails.
Mt Tamborine Brewery BREWERY
(% 07-5545 2032; www.mtbeer.com; 165 Long Rd,
Eagle Heights; h 9.30am-5pm Mon-Thu, 9.30am-
late Fri-Sun) Thirsty? Swing by the Mt Tam-
borine Brewery for a Rainforest Lager or
a tasting tray (four beer samples for $10).
There’s also a bistro here for lunch (mains
$13 to $23).
Witches Chase Cheese
Company CHEESEWRIGHT
(www.witcheschasecheese.com.au; 165 Long Rd, Ea-
gle Heights; h 10am-4pm) In the same steel-and-
dark-timber complex as the Mt Tamborine
Brewery is Witches Chase Cheese Company,
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef S
with free tastings or bread-and-cheese boards
for $25. Try the triple-cream brie.
Skywalk WALKING
(% 07-5545 2222; www.rainforestskywalk.com.au;
333 Geissman Dr, North Tamborine; adult/child/
family $19.50/9.50/49; h 9.30am-4pm) Take a
wander out into the rainforest canopy at
Skywalk, at its highest point 30m above
the ground. The path descends to the forest
floor and leads to Cedar Creek: keep an eye
out for rare Richmond Birdwing butterflies
along the way.
4 Sleeping
Tamborine Mountain ¨
Caravan & Camping CAMPGROUND $
(% 07-5545 0034; www.tamborine.info; Cedar
Creek Falls Rd, Tamborine; unpowered/powered
Gp
sites $20/28, safari tents $85-100) This wooded
loerleidngb
camping ground, with affable staff, nifty sa-
pC
fari tents and a freshwater swimming hole,
i ng
oast
is a five-minute walk up Cedar Creek.
r o o kH iNnt
Polish Place CHALET $$$
(% 07-5545 1603; www.polishplace.com.au; 333
Main Western Rd, North Tamborine; chalets from
ateirolna
$259; a W ) There’s a distinctly tacky Bavar-
ian or Polish vibe infusing much Tamborine
and
Mountain commerce, but despite the mar-
l Pa r k
keting, the accommodation here is rea-
sonably kitsch-free. The five timber-lined,
self-contained chalets have loft bedrooms
and superb views from their front decks.
Springbrook
National Park
About a 40-minute drive west of Burleigh
Heads, Springbrook National Park (www.
nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/springbrook) is a steep
remnant of the huge Tweed Shield volcano
that centred on nearby Mt Warning in
NSW more than 20 million years ago. It’s a
wonderland for hikers, with excellent trails
through cool-temperate, subtropical and
eucalypt forests offering a mosaic of gorges,
cliffs and waterfalls.
The park is divided into four sections.
The 900m-high Springbrook Plateau
section is laced with waterfalls and eye-
popping lookouts, including the 106m Purl-
ing Brook Falls, Canyon Lookout and Best
of All Lookout. Along the pathway to Best
of All Lookout are some gnarled ancient
Antarctic beech trees, and the view from the
lookout itself is phenomenal (indeed, best of
all). There’s an unstaffed visitor informa-
tion centre at the end of Old School Rd, and
11 grassy campsites nearby at Settlement
Campground (% 13 74 68; www.nprsr.qld.gov.
au/parks/springbrook/camping.html; per person/
family $5.45/21.80); book in advance. Alterna-
tively, try Mouses House (% 07-5533 5192;
www.mouseshouse.com.au; 2807 Springbrook
Rd, Springbrook; r from $250, 2 nights from $430;
aW ) – 12 lovely timber chalets linked by
rainforest boardwalks.
The scenic Natural Bridge section, off
the Nerang–Murwillumbah road, has a 1km
walking circuit leading to a huge rock arch
spanning a water-formed cave – home to a
luminous colony of glow-worms.
The Mount Cougal section, accessed via
Currumbin Creek Rd, has several waterfalls
and swimming holes (watch out for sub-
merged logs and slippery rocks). The heavily
forested Numinbah section to the north is
the fourth section of the park.
Lamington National Park
West of Springbrook, the 20,500-hectare
Lamington National Park (www.nprsr.qld.
gov.au/parks/lamington) is a precious ecologi-
cal giant – it’s the largest undisturbed tract
of subtropical rainforest in Australia. Most
of the park sits on a 900m-high plateau
studded with beautiful gorges, waterfalls,
thick subtropical rainforests and 160km of
bushwalking trails.
The two most accessible sections of
the park are the Binna Burra and Green
Mountains sections, both reached via long,
narrow, winding roads from Canungra (not
great for big campervans). Binna Burra can
also be reached from Nerang.

Bushwalks within the park include eve-
rything from short jaunts to multi-day epics.
For experienced hikers, the Gold Coast Hin-
terland Great Walk is a three-day trip along
a 54km path from the Green Mountains sec-
tion to the Springbrook Plateau. Other fa-
vourites include the excellent Tree Top Can-
opy Walk along a series of rope-and-plank
suspension bridges at Green Mountains, and
the 21km Border Track that follows the di-
viding range between NSW and Queensland
and links Binna Burra to Green Mountains.
Walking guides are available from the
ranger stations (h 7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-
3.30pm Sat & Sun) at Binna Burra and Green
Mountains.
4 Sleeping & Eating
Green Mountains ¨
Campground CAMPGROUND $
(% 13 74 68; www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/lamington/
camping.html; sites per person/family $5.45/22)
There’s a tiered national parks campground
as you head down the hill from O’Reilly’s.
There are plenty of spots for tents and cara-
vans (and a toilet/shower block); obtain per-
mits in advance by phone or online.
Binna Burra Mountain ¨
Lodge GUESTHOUSE $$$
(% 1300 246 622, 07-5533 3622; www.binnabur-
ralodge.com.au; 1069 Binna Burra Rd, Beechmont;
unpowered/powered sites $28/35, safari tents
from $55, d incl breakfast with/without bathroom
$300/190, apt from $295) Stay in the lodge, in
rustic log cabins, flashy new apartments or
in a tent surrounded by forest in this atmos-
pheric mountain retreat. The central restau-
rant (mains $20 to $40) has good views over
the national park, and is open for breakfast,
lunch and dinner. Organised activities in-
clude abseiling, guided walks, flying-fox
flights and nightly nature documentaries.
Transport to and from the lodge can be ar-
ranged upon request. The lodge also runs
the cafe-style Teahouse (mains $14 to $18) a
few hundred metres up the road, open 9am
to 3pm.
O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat GUESTHOUSE $$$
(% 1800 688 722, 07-5502 4911; www.oreillys.
com.au; Lamington National Park Rd, Green Moun-
tains; s/d from $163/278, 1-/2-bedroom villas from
$400/435; iWs ) Established in 1926, this
famous Green Mountains guesthouse is
still run by the O’Reilly family. The original
guesthouse is a tad faded but retains a cer-
tain rustic charm – and sensational views! –
329
but there’s also a choice of luxury villas
and newish ‘mountain view’ doubles. The
Discovery Centre runs daily activities, in-
cluding guided rainforest walks, glow-worm
walks and 4WD tours (all at added cost), and
free nightly nature documentaries. There’s
also a day spa, cafe, bar and a restaurant
(mains $25 to $40), which is open for break-
fast, lunch and dinner.
NOOSA & THE SUNSHINE
COAST
From the tip of Bribie Island, the ‘Sunny
Coast’ stretches north for 100 golden kilome-
tres to the Cooloola Coast, just beyond the
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef Lam
exclusive, leafy resort town of Noosa. The
coast is perfect for surfing and swimming,
and Mooloolaba – with its popular beach,
outdoor eateries and cafes – is a firm favour-
ite with holidaying Australian families.
Forming a stunning backdrop to this
spectacular coastline are the ethereal Glass
House Mountains. A little further north is
the Sunshine Coast hinterland, home to the
forested folds and ridges, gorges and water-
falls, lush green pastures and quaint villages
of the Blackall Range.
The Sunshine Coast is also home to one
of the world’s great wildlife sanctuaries, the
iconic Australia Zoo.
88 Getting There & Away
AIR N loeoeisa
S
The Sunshine Coast Airport is at Mudjimba,
10km north of Maroochydore and 26km south of
p
ngto
Noosa. Jetstar (% 13 15 38; www.jetstar.com.
i ng
au) and Virgin Australia (% 13 67 89; www.vir-
& t&
ginaustralia.com) have daily flights from Sydney
nh eEat
and Melbourne.
N at
S uiing
BUS
ns
o na
Greyhound Australia (% 1300 473 946; www.
h iln Pa
greyhound.com.au) has daily services from
Brisbane to Caloundra ($25, two hours), Ma-
e Croast
roochydore ($25, two hours) and Noosa ($29,
2½ hours). Premier Motor Service (% 13 34
k
10; www.premierms.com.au) also services Ma-
roochydore and Noosa from Brisbane.
88 Getting Around
Several companies offer transfers from the
Sunshine Coast Airport and Brisbane to points
along the coast. Fares from Brisbane cost $40 to
$50. From the Sunshine Coast Airport fares are
around $20 to $25.
3 30

Sunshine Coast 0
0
10 km
6 miles

Great Sandy

Noosa
15 National Park
(Cooloola)

Riv
er
Teewah
Wolvi Coloured
Sands
Everglades
Gympie Fig Tree
Point
Kinaba Island SOUTH
Elanda Point
Lake PACIFIC
Kin Kin Cootharaba OCEAN
Boreen
Point
Teewah
Beach
Pinbarren Lake Lake
Cooroibah Rd Cooroibah
Mt Laguna
Pomona Tinbeerwah Bay
(265m) Noosa Noosa
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef N

Heads National Park

A1
6 Tewantin Noosaville
Cooroy Clip Clop Sunshine
Treks Lake Beach
Weyba
Eumarella Peregian Beach
ge

12
Rd 70
an

Eumundi 6
ll Ra

M1 David Low Way

Bl ack

Belli Ginger Coolum Beach

11
Park Factory Point Perry
Yandina Yaroomba
Mt Coolum
Mapleton Falls (208m) Marcoola
National Park Sunshine Coast Airport
Bli Bli Mudjimba
Kenilworth Nambour 10 Beach
Mapleton
Flaxton Maroochydore
Big Pineapple 8
70 Alexandra Headland
Kondalilla Mooloolaba
National Park Montville Buderim
6

Mooloolah River
G eOO

National Park
ott

M1
oS

Conondale Maleny
Mooloolah
sa
iAng& AT

6 Caloundra
Glass House
t rHE

Landsborough Mountains Rd
hoe uSnd

Australia
Zoo
U
uN

6 Beerwah
ns

Steve Irwin Way

S HI
hiN

Glass House
nE

Mountains
e C OA

Glass House Mountains Bribie

National Park Island
oast

Forest Dve Bribie Island

ST

Beerburrum National Park

Woodford
Donnybrook
60
White
85
M1 Patch
Caboolture
Airfield 85
Woorim
Bongaree
Caboolture
Brisbane
(45km)

The blue minibuses run by Sunbus (% 13 12
30) buzz frequently between Caloundra and
Noosa. Sunbus also has regular buses from
Noosa across to the train station at Nambour
($5, one hour) via Eumundi.
Col’s Airport Shuttle (% 07-5450 5933; www.
airshuttle.com.au)
Henry’s (% 07-5474 0199; www.henrys.com.
au)
Noosa Transfers & Charters (% 07-5450
5933; www.noosatransfers.com.au)
Sun-Air Bus Service (% 07-5477 0888, 1800
804 340; www.sunair.com.au)
TRAIN
Citytrain has services from Nambour to Bris-
bane ($22, two hours). Trains also go to Beerwah
($12, 1½ hours), near Australia Zoo.
Noosa
POP 9110
Once a little-known surfer hang-out, Noo-
sa is now a stylish resort town and one of
Queensland’s star attractions. Noosa’s stun-
ning natural landscape of crystalline beach-
es and tropical rainforests blends seamlessly
with its fashionable boulevard, Hastings St,
and the sophisticated beach elite who flock
here. On long weekends and school holidays,
though, the flock becomes a migration, and
narrow Hastings St a slow-moving file of
traffic.
Beyond the glamour is a biosphere of gor-
geous natural beauty where rugged bush
and beach adventures are easy to find.
1 Sights
One of Noosa’s best features, the lovely Noo-
sa National Park (% 07-5447 3243; Hastings St;
h 9am-3pm) covers the headland and offers
fine walks, great coastal scenery and a string
of bays with waves that draw surfers from
all over the country. Clothes are optional at
Alexandria Bay on the eastern side, an infor-
mal nudist beach.
The most scenic way to access the na-
tional park is to follow the boardwalk along
the coast from town. Pick up a walking-track
map from the Queensland Parks & Wild-
life Service (QPWS) centre (h 9am-3pm),
at the entrance to the park. Sleepy koalas
are often spotted in the trees near Tea Tree
Bay and dolphins are commonly seen from
the rocky headlands around Alexandria Bay.
For a panoramic view of the park, walk
or drive up to Laguna Lookout (300m from
Viewland Dr) in Noosa Junction.
3 31
2 Activities
Noosa River is excellent for canoeing and
kayaking. It’s possible to follow it north
past beautiful homes through to Lakes Co-
oroibah and Cootharaba, and the Cooloola
section of the Great Sandy National Park,
just south of Rainbow Beach Rd. Noosa
Ocean Kayak Tours (% 0418 787 577; www.
noosakayaktours.com; 2hr tours $66, kayak hire
per day $55) hires out kayaks and offers sea-
kayaking tours around Noosa National Park
and Noosa River.
For a more sedate experience, hop aboard
the Noosa Ferry (% 07-5449 8442; per person
$20), which cruises the waters of Noosa
Sound on its popular BYO sunset cruise.
It also has 90-minute round-trip cruises to
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef N
Tewantin from the Sheraton jetty. A new
ecologically minded ‘biosphere’ cruise ($45,
2½ hours) leaves on demand at 10am and
includes a stop for morning tea.
Sunday morning sailing lessons are of-
fered at Noosa Yacht & Rowing Club
(% 07-5440 7407; www.nyrc.com.au; Chaplain Park,
Gympie Tce) and further down-river at Boreen
Point.
Numerous companies offer surf lessons
and board hire, including Merrick’s Learn
to Surf (% 0418 787 577; www.learntosurf.com.
au; 2hr lessons $60; h 9am & 1.30pm), Go Ride
A Wave (% 1300 132 441; www.gorideawave.com.
au; 2hr lessons $65, 2hr surfboard hire $25, 1hr
stand-up paddleboard hire $30) and Noosa Kite
Surfing (% 0458 909 012; www.noosakitesurfing.
com.au; 2hr lessons $95).
S iogohsa
T Tours
A number of tour operators offer trips from
ts & t h e S u ns h i n e C oast
Noosa to Fraser Island via the Cooloola
Coast.
Fraser Island ¨
Adventure Tours ADVENTURE TOUR
(% 07-5444 6957; www.fraserislandadventuretours.
com.au; day tours $165) The very popular day
tour to Eli Creek and Lake McKenzie packs
as much punch as a two-day tour.
Offbeat Ecotours ECOTOUR
(% 1300 023 835; www.offbeattours.com.au; full-
day tours adult/child $155/110) These spirited
day trips into the Noosa Hinterland – the
‘oxygen tank’ of Noosa – feature waterfall
swimming, intimate encounters with an-
cient flora and a gourmet lunch to rival the
Hastings St massive.
3 32

66 66
Noosa Heads e
# 00 200 m
0.1 miles
A B C D

44444444

D
D Dog Beach (200m) Little Cove Beach (200m);
Laguna Bay The Cove (200m);
Noosa Noosa QPWS Centre (800m)
Woods 20 14 Main Beach

44444444
þ
# #ú Ù
#

Cove Rd
66 66
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# #þ H
# astings S # 13 9
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rk

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# # Visitor Centre
ï

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osa Long- w
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a
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Noosa Parade
Holiday Inn (200m); 1

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Noosaville (2.2km) Dr
sa

66
oo
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef N

Dr
N

es land
View
Cr
P o int

#
ÿ
3 3
4
Picture

66
Noosa Junction 18
D

(500m) ý
#
A B C D

Noosa Heads
æ Sights 12 Kaali........................................................... A1
1 Noosa National Park............................... D2 13 Laguna Bakery......................................... B1
14 Lindoni's ................................................... A1
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 15 Massimo's ................................................ C1
2 Noosa Ferry .............................................. A1 16 Noosa Heads
SLSC ...................................................... C1
ÿ Sleeping
û Drinking & Nightlife
F eost

3 Accom Noosa...........................................B1
4 Outriggers Little Hastings ..................... C3 17 Zachary's.................................................. B1
o sa

5 YHA Halse Lodge .................................... C2

i va&l st h&eEv

ý Entertainment
ú Eating 18 Reef Hotel.................................................B3
6 Aromas......................................................B1
7 Bay Village Shopping Centre þ Shopping
S uens

Food Court.............................................B1 19 Dwyer's Bookstore.................................. C1

8 Berardo's ................................................. C2 20 Lamington ................................................ A1
nts

9 Bistro C .....................................................B1 21 Streets of Harlem.................................... A1

h i n e C oast

10 Café Le Monde ........................................ C2 22 Summer & Salt ........................................ A1

11 Gaston...................................................... C2

Sunset Safaris DRIVING TOUR rainforest walk at Central Station and visits
(% 1300 553 606; www.sunsetsafaris.com.au; 3-day to Lakes Birrabeen and McKenzie. Also offers
safaris per person $389) A large operator that day tours exploring the Noosa everglades by
runs youth-oriented tours. 4WD and boat ($99/135 day/overnight).
Discovery Group DRIVING TOUR
(% 07-5449 0393; www.thediscoverygroup.com.au;
z Festivals & Events
day tours adult/child $169/125) Visit Fraser is- Noosa Food & Wine Festival FOOD, WINE

land in a big 4WD truck. Includes a guided (www.noosafoodandwine.com.au) May; a four-

day tribute to great eating and drinking.

Noosa Long Weekend FOOD, FASHION
(www.noosalongweekend.com) June or July; 10
days of the arts, fashion and frivolity.
Noosa Jazz Festival JAZZ
(www.noosajazz.com.au) Late August; over four
days, the festival draws talented musicians
from across the globe.
4 Sleeping
Accom Noosa ACCOMMODATION SERVICES
(% 1800 072 078; www.accomnoosa.com.au; Shop
5, Fairshore Apartments, Hastings St, Noosa Heads)
Accom Noosa is a good place to find short-
term holiday rentals.
YHA Halse Lodge HOSTEL $
(% 1800 242 567; www.halselodge.com.au; 2 Halse
333
Nomads a good night’s rest is not always an
option; luckily the bar at this Noosa branch
is a ripper. Dorms have a minimum of eight
beds and while the kitchen facilities aren’t
the cleanest, staff are bubbly and knowledge-
able and there’s loads of shared space. The
tour desk is helpful but we reckon you can
just as easily book your own adventures.
Noosa River Holiday Park CARAVAN PARK $
(% 07-5449 7050; www.sunshinecoastholidayparks.
com; 4 Russell St; unpowered/powered sites $34/42;
W ) On the banks of the Noosa River, this is
the closest camping facility to Noosa. Al-
though it’s a pretty spot, the strict regulations
might make you reconsider camping here.
Anchor Motel Noosa MOTEL $$
(% 07-5449 8055; www.anchormotelnoosa.com.au;

Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef N

Lane; members/non-members dm $29/32, d
$78/86; iW ) This restored Queenslander has
survived the gentrification of Noosa Heads
with indie reputation intact. Its elevated po-
sition amid scrub belies its close proximity to
Main Beach, and the bar serves the best-value
meals in town ($10 to 15). The dorms can feel
stuffy but they are clean and staff are friendly.
Flashpackers HOSTEL $
(% 07-5455 4088; www.flashpackersnoosa.com; 102
Pacific Ave, Sunshine Beach; dm from $25, d from
$65; aWs ) The Sunshine Beach backpack-
ing scene has been given a boost by the arrival
of this hip new family-run budget operation.
Flashpackers challenges the flea-bitten status
quo with pristine dorm rooms and an airy
tropical design. Thoughtful touches include
full-length mirrors, ample wall sockets and
complimentary Friday-night sausage sizzle.
cnr Anchor St & Weyba Rd; r from $110; a W s )
Ships ahoy, this place is a bargain! There’s
nothing pretentious about the spotless,
marine-themed rooms but all have bath-
rooms and small balconies, and some have
king-sized beds. The shared space around
the pool and barbecue are good launching
pads for a night out in Noosaville.
Islander Noosa Resort RESORT $$
(% 07-5440 9200; www.islandernoosa.com.au;
187 Gympie Tce; 2-/3-bedroom villas $200/250;
aiWs ) A mainstay of Noosaville’s tropi-
cal resort scene, the Islander is best suited to
families with aquatic-minded kids or those
looking to stay at home among lush gardens.
Some rooms are a little tired but the three
pools are classy and the on-site Moondoggy’s S loeoesa
Cafe is an institution (and welcomes pets).

Nomads Backpackers HOSTEL $ The Cove APARTMENT $$

p i ng

(% 07-5447 3355; www.nomadshostels.com; 44 (% 5447 4111; www.thecovenoosa.com.au; cnr Park

& t h e S u ns h i n e C oast

Noosa Dr; dm from $28; iWs ) At the notorious Rd & Little Cove Rd; 2-bedroom apt from $200;

EUMUNDI
Sweet little Eumundi is a quaint highland village with a quirky New-Age vibe greatly am-
plified during its famous market days.
¨¨The Eumundi markets (h 6.30am-2pm Sat, 8am-1pm Wed) attract thousands of
visitors to their 300-plus stalls and have everything from hand-crafted furniture and
jewellery to homemade clothes and alternative-healing booths, plus food and live music.
¨¨Hidden Valley B&B (% 07-5442 8685; www.eumundibed.com; 39 Caplick Way; r $175-195;
W s ) is an attractive Queenslander 400m from Eumundi on the Noosa road, with wildly
designed thematic rooms with balconies.
¨¨Gridley Homestead (% 07-5442 7197; www.gridley.com.au; 1 Sale St, Eumundi; d from
$185) is another semi-posh option in a beautiful home.
Sunbus runs hourly from Noosa Heads ($4.20, 40 minutes) and Nambour ($5.10, 30
minutes). A number of Noosa tour operators visit the Eumundi markets.
334
pas) Opposite charming Little Cove
Beach, this well-managed, low-key resort
has spacious, bright apartments that suit
longer stays. The bathrooms have been re-
cently updated and the tiled floors and airy
bedrooms are perfect for those hot summer
days. There’s an excellent pool in the inter-
nal courtyard and the popular penthouse
suites have outdor spas. It’s a five-minute
walk downhill to Hastings St.
Noosa Parade Holiday Inn APARTMENT $$
(% 07-5447 4177; www.noosaparadeholidayinn.
com; 51 Noosa Pde; r $125; aWs ) A long way
from the pages of glossy magazines but close
enough to walk to Hastings St, these bright
apartments are quiet and comfortable.
Noosa River Retreat service can be a little hectic at peak times,
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef N
APARTMENT $$
(% 07-5474 2811; www.noosariverretreat.net; cnr
Weyba Rd & Reef St; studios $110; aiWs ) Ex-
cellent in-room and on-site facilities make
this complex a decent place to stay despite
the awkward location and traffic noise. Small
native gardens surround the better corner
units though all are spacious for the price.
Outriggers Little Hastings RESORT $$$
(% 07-5449 2277; www.outrigger.com; Viewland Dr,
access via Little Cove Rd after 7pm; 1-/2-bedroom
apt $269/339) The newest addition to the
luxury scene is in a relatively secluded sec-
tion – a dead-end road – on the Hastings
St side of the national park. The Outriggers
is typically stylish with clean lines and soft
colours throughout. Balconies and windows
look out on thick greenery, and there is am-
Eat
ple space for a post-hill-climb cocktail party.
o oi sa
5 Eating
ng H
& etads
Noosa has a fabulous dining scene. For quick
bites, you can eat well for around $10 at the
h e S&u ns
Bay Village Shopping Centre food court
(Hastings St, Noosa Heads). Self-caterers can
Hast
stock up at the Noosa Fair Shopping Centre.
h i ni ngs
e C oast
5 Noosa Heads &
Hastings Street
Street
Head to Hastings St and Noosa Heads for
sophisticated dining. Noosaville is growing
in stature, while Noosa Junction has more
affordable options.
Laguna Bakery BAKERY $
(% 07-5447 2606; 3/49 Hastings St) Friendly
bakery with strong coffee and yummy pas-
tries to go.
Massimo’s GELATI $
(Hastings St; gelati $2-4; h 9am-10pm) Definitely
one of the best gelaterias in Queensland.
Café Le Monde MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(Hastings St; mains $15-28; h breakfast, lunch &
dinner) Opposite the surf club, but with plum
street views, Le Monde offers classic Noosa
dining: attractive and attentive staff, huge
menu running throughout the day, family
friendly yet still somehow hip. Food-wise,
the pick is the burgers. Happy-hour drinks
are a real scene and live music is a regular
feature.
Bistro C MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-5447 2855; Hastings St, On the Beach Resort;
mains $25-35; h breakfast, lunch & dinner) While
the location and food consistency are still
unrivalled in Noosa. It works just as well for
breakfast – try the eggs Benedict with corn
fritters – as it does for mocktails in the late
afternoon or seafood pasta at night.
Noosa Heads SLSC INTERNATIONAL $$
(Hastings St; mains $12-33; h breakfast Sat & Sun,
lunch & dinner daily) While some may baulk at
lining up for your food, the meals here are
delicious, ranging from seafood to steak and
stir fry. The turnover is incredible in high
season and the perfect beach views from the
deck are hard to resist.
Gaston MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(5/50 Hastings St; mains $17-25; h breakfast, lunch
& dinner) Less stuffy than some of the more
frequented Hastings St restaurants, Gaston
excels in uncomplicated bistro food. The
lunch special ($17 for a main and a drink)
and dinner special ($50 for two mains and a
bottle of wine) are superb value.
Kaali INDIAN $$
(% 07-5474 8989; 2/2 Hastings St; mains $19-29)
Popular Kaali adds a welcome subcontinen-
tal twist to the Hastings St dining scene.
Dishes are fairly typical Indian fare with
lively spice varieties and generous portions.
The Goan fish curry and the lamb shanks
are both excellent; otherwise, pay attention
to the specials board.
Aromas CAFE $$
(32 Hastings St; mains $10-28; h breakfast, lunch &
dinner) Come to Aromas for coffee, cake and
eavesdropping beneath the chandeliers. It’s
a great meeting place in the heart of the foot
traffic, and the light meals are passable.

Lindoni’s ITALIAN $$$
(% 07-5447 5111; Hastings St; mains $20-50; h din-
ner) Faultless Italian romanticism could easi-
ly falter on the Sunshine Coast but this Hast-
ings St favourite still draws attention for its
fine service and dining. Think Positano and
the Amalfi coast – with lashings of amore.
Try the saltimbocca and anything from the
wine list.
Berardo’s MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$$
(% 07-5447 5666; Hastings St; mains $30-42;
h dinner) Still Noosa’s most celebrated res-
taurant, Berardo’s is a study in contempo-
rary cuisine inspired by the decor of yester-
year. With its classically trained musicians
and impeccable waitstaff, this is the place
for intimate celebration. The produce is
almost all sourced locally and highlights
include free-range duck breast, Kilcoy eye
fillet and tuna tataki.
5 Noosaville & Around
Check out the strip along Thomas St or Gib-
son St. Many places here are BYO, so stock
up on wine and beer beforehand.
Burger Bar BURGERS $
(4 Thomas St; burgers $10-15; h 11am-9pm;
v ) This informal, quirky venue whips up
hormone-free, vegetarian, and weird and
wonderful burgerian delights. Try the chilli-
laden Afterburner.
Gusto MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-5449 7144; 257 Gympie Tce; mains $25-
35; h lunch & dinner) Gusto matches Noosa’s
classy competition with effortless style, su-
perior service and breezy river views. The
Mod Oz menu includes Hervey Bay scallops,
veal fillets, Mooloolaba prawns and local
fried cuttlefish.
Humid MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-5449 9755; 195 Weyba Rd; mains $25-30;
h lunch & dinner Wed-Sun; v ) In an unassum-
ing location near the footy ground, Humid
is in a double-storey warehouse conversion
that serves booze downstairs before seduc-
ing you upstairs with delicious, affordable
food. The female duo in charge are respect-
ed for their innovative fare, which features
rabbit pie, roasted barramundi and a crea-
tive vegetarian menu.
Embassy XO CHINESE $$
(% 07-5455 4460; 56 Duke St, Sunshine Beach;
mains $25-35) A classy addition to the hum-
335
ble Duke St precinct, Embassy XO is at least
one hat above the usual Chinese fare. The
exquisite banquet ($55 per person) or the
weekend yum cha are good entry points
into this hot new place that serves up inven-
tive dishes like rice-encrusted snapper and
five-spiced ocean trout.
Wasabi JAPANESE $$
(% 07-5449 2443; 2 Quamby Pl; mains $20-33;
h dinner Tue-Sun, lunch Fri & Sat) Choose be-
tween oshinagaki (starters) like tiger prawn
tempura or raw venison, then proceed to
futari (two-person dishes) such as charcoal
soba noodles or spatchcock teriyaki. Wasabi
is right on the Noosa River.
iPazzi ITALIAN $$
(% 07-5412 2841; 28-30 Sunshine Beach Rd, Noosa
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef N
Junction; mains $16-30) A passionate Sicilian
couple runs this authentic little restaurant
in unfashionable Noosa Junction. A steady
clientele of locals enjoys the homemade,
mostly organic Italian food.
Thomas Corner MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(cnr Thomas St & Gympie Tce; mains $16-33;
h lunch & dinner) A much revered local chef
has opened this relaxed diner on a prime
Noosaville corner. It’s a casual alfresco res-
taurant with concrete and wooden decor
and the locally sourced food is similary un-
derstated: pork shoulder baguettes, wagyu
brisket and marinated sardines are all
delicious.
6 Drinking & Entertainment Dr
Zachary’s BAR
oionk
(30 Hastings St) With new venues in
sai ng
sav
Noosaville and Peregian Beach, Zachary’s
&i ltl&he eEnt
has the late-night pizza and all-day cocktail
crowd sewn up. The original on Hastings St
is still the best.
&SAuerns
KB’s BAR
rota
(44 Noosa Dr, Noosa Junction) The Koala Bar is
uhnd
iinnm
still the venue of choice for young cosmo-
e Ce oast
politans who prefer their beer in plastic and
their music in chorus-laden loops. Unpack
nt
your dirty laundry on the dance floor or
reminisce about a time before you owned a
suitcase.
Noosa Yacht Club YACHT CLUB
(Gympie Tce) The pub food is OK but any-
where you can drink cheap stubbies over-
looking a natural body of water is a destina-
tion in its own right. Sailing lessons avail-
able on Sundays.
3 36
J LIVE MUSIC
(% 07-5455 4455; www.thej.com.au; 60 Noosa
Dr, Noosa Junction) The J, aka the Junction,
showcases a broad range of artistic, cultural
and musical performances from world and
rock to classical. Check the website for event
details.
Reef Hotel LIVE MUSIC
(% 07-5447 4477; 9 Noosa Dr; h 11am-midnight
Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat) The renovation may
be a little soulless but there’s live music dur-
ing the week and the downstairs club cranks
until 3am on Friday and Saturday nights.
Noosa Arts Theatre THEATRE
(www.noosaartstheatre.org.au; 163 Weyba Rd,
Noosa­ville) High drama to ostentatious ad-
aptation at this friendly community theatre.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef G
Noosa 5 Cinemas CINEMA
(% 07-5447 5130; www.noosacinemas.com.au; 29
Sunshine Beach Rd, Noosa Junction) This plush,
comfortable cinema screens the latest block-
busters.
7 Shopping
Summer & Salt CLOTHING
(7/14 Hastings St; h 9.30am-5pm) While most
discerning beach bums would never be
seen dead in a ‘rashie’, a local designer has
released a stylish range of the sun-safe,
skintight tops and opened a second store in
Noosa.
Lamington GIFTS
(% 07-5447 5773; www.lamington.net.au; 1/5 Hast-
ings St; h 9.30am-5pm) Find gifts you didn’t
Nh
S
loass
know you needed at this charming store.
o pp
saiHng
Streets of Harlem CLOTHING
&otuhsee SMuons
(% 07-5455 4109; 8 Hastings St; h 9.30am-5pm)
Urban youth fashion and excellent coffee.
The industrial design is not exactly sunny
but even the sun can be a drag sometimes.
u nta
Noosa Marina Sunday Markets Noosa Ferry operates ferries between Noosa
h i n iens
MARKET
(h 8am-2pm) Catch the Noosa River Ferry
down to Tewantin for the buzzing weekend
C oast
market for live music, local produce and
cheap clothing.
Dwyer’s Bookstore BOOKS
(Shop 5, Laguna, Hastings St) Good range of new
fiction.
River Read BOOKS
(% 07-5473 0483; 6 Thomas St, Noosaville;
h 9.30am-4.30pm) Friendly bookstore and
cafe with excellent children’s section.
88 Information
The forward-thinking council did away with
traffic lights some years back, which has led to
an unusual number of roundabouts, so know
thy exit. Broadly speaking, Noosa encompasses
three zones: Noosa Heads (around Laguna Bay
and Hastings St), Noosaville (along the Noosa
River) and Noosa Junction (the administrative
centre).
Noosa Visitor Centre (% 07-5430 5020; www.
visitnoosa.com.au; Hastings St, Noosa Heads;
h 9am-5pm)
Palm Tree Tours (% 07-5474 9166; www.
palmtreetours.com.au; Bay Village Shopping
Centre, Hastings St; h 9am-5pm) Very helpful
tour desk. Can book tours, accommodation and
bus tickets.
Post Office (91 Noosa Dr)
Urban Mailbox (Ocean Breeze, Noosa Dr; per
15min $3; h 8am-8pm) Internet access.
88 Getting There & Around
Long-distance buses stop at the bus stop near
the corner of Noosa Dr and Noosa Pde. Most
hostels have courtesy pick-ups, except YHA
Halse Lodge, which is 100m away. The state-of-
the-art Noosa Junction station opened in 2012
and now acts as the bus hub for the region.
Sunbus has frequent services to Maroochy-
dore ($5, one hour) and the Nambour train sta-
tion ($5, one hour).
During peak holiday seasons (26 December to
10 January and over Easter), free shuttle buses
travel between Weyba Rd (just outside Noosa
Junction) and Tewantin, stopping just about
everywhere in between.
Noosa Bike Hire (% 07-5474 3322; www.
noosabikehire.com; per 4hr/day $23/39) hires
out bicycles from several locations in Noosa,
including Nomads Backpackers and Flashpack-
ers. Alternatively, bikes are delivered free to
your door.
Scooter Style (% 07-5449 7733; www.scoot-
erstyle.com.au; 207 Gympie Tce, Noosaville; per
day from $65) hires out zippy scooters.
Heads and Tewantin (one way adult/child/
family $13/4.50/30, all-day pass $20/6/49, 30
minutes).
Car rental starts at about $50 per day with
Noosa Car Rentals (% 0429 053 728; www.
noosacarrentals.com.au).
Glass House Mountains
Rising high above the green subtropical hin-
terland are the 16 volcanic crags known as
the Glass House Mountains. Mt Beerwah
(556m), the highest of these ethereal cor-
 3 37

CREATURE FEATURE: AUSTRALIA ZOO

Just north of Beerwah is one of Queensland’s, if not Australia’s, most famous tourist
attractions. Australia Zoo (% 07-5494 1134; www.australiazoo.com.au; Steve Irwin Way,
Beerwah; adult/child/family $59/35/172; h 9am-5pm) is a fitting homage to its founder,
zany celebrity wildlife enthusiast Steve Irwin. As well as all things slimy and scaly, the
zoo has an amazing wildlife menagerie and features a Cambodian-style Tiger Temple,
the Asian-themed Elephantasia, as well as the famous Crocoseum. There are macaws,
birds of prey, giant tortoises, snakes, otters, camels, and more crocs and critters than
you can poke a stick at. Plan to spend a full day at this amazing wildlife park.
Various companies offer tours from Brisbane and the Sunshine Coast. The zoo oper-
ates a free courtesy bus from towns along the coast, as well as from the Beerwah train
station (bookings essential).

nices, is the mother according to Dreaming Glasshouse Mountains ¨

mythology. Holiday Village CAMPING $

Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C

Hikers are spoilt for choice here. If you’re
in a hurry, the Glass House Mountains
lookout provides a fine view of the peaks
and the distant beaches. The lookout cir-
cuit (800m) is a short and steep walking
track that leads through open scribbly-gum
forest and down a wet gully before circling
back.
For something more intense, check out
the 1.4km (return) hike to the summit of
Mount Ngungun (253m). It has impressive
views of the four major peaks and a bit of
challenging hiking – keep the kids close as
the steep trail passes close to the cliff line
and can be slippery.
For some mountainside parkour, other-
wise known as ‘bouldering’, leg it up Tibro-
(% 07-5496 9338; www.glasshousemountainsholi-
dayvillage.com.au; 778 Steve Irwin Way, Glass House
Mountains; unpowered/powered sites $25/35, cab-
ins from $110; as ) Accommodation in the
park is limited. Glasshouse Mountains Holi-
day Village has comfortable, self-contained
cabins, scrappy sites and spectacular moun-
tain views.
Glasshouse Mountains Tavern PUB $$
(10 Reed St, Glass House Mountains; mains $15-25;
h lunch & dinner) This fine country swill hall
serves good pub grub and icy-cold beer.
Caloundra
POP 20,200

gargan (3km return) and Beerwah (2.6km The Sunshine Coast’s southernmost suburb
return); you’ll need good shoes and leg mus- is a sprawling beach community of seven
N la
S oelo

cles to spring up the patches of loose rock. surf beaches linked up by a fine promenade
oesa

Reach the Glass House Mountains Na- running north to Currimundi. With loads of
puind

tional Park via a series of sealed and un- beachfront cafes – and a grand backdrop of
ng
&r

sealed roads off Steve Irwin Way. Coming the Glass House Mountains – Caloundra is
t&h

popular with holidaying families and week-

a eEat

from the Bruce Hwy (Rte 1), take the Lands-

borough exit. enders from Brisbane.
S ui ng

1 Sights & Activities

ns h i n e C oast

4 Sleeping & Eating

Glass House ¨
Mountains Ecolodge LODGE $$
(% 07-5493 0008; www.glasshouseecolodge.
com; 198 Barrs Rd, Glass House Mountains; r $45-
185) This novel retreat, overseen by a keen
environmentalist, is close to Australia Zoo
and offers a range of good-value sleeping
options, including the cosy Orchard Room
($105) and the converted Church Loft ($175),
each with polished floorboards and tremen-
dous views of Mt Tibrogargan. It’s the ideal
base to explore the region. Pick-ups avail-
able from Glass House Mountains station.
Caloundra’s beaches curve around the head-
land so you’ll always find a sheltered beach
no matter how windy it gets. Bulcock Beach,
just down from the main street and pinched
by the northern tip of Bribie Island, captures
a good wind tunnel, making it popular with
kite surfers. There’s a lovely promenade on
the foreshore that extends around to Kings
Beach, where there’s a kiddie-friendly in-
teractive water feature, and a free saltwater
swimming pool on the rocks. Depending on
the conditions, Moffat Beach and Dickey
Beach have the best surf breaks.
338
Caloundra Surf School SURFING
(% 0413 381 010; www.caloundrasurfschool.com;
lessons per person from $45) The pick of the
surf schools, with board hire also available.
Blue Water Kayak Tours KAYAKING
(% 07-5494 7789; www.bluewaterkayaktours.com;
half-/full-day tours minimum 4 people $80/150)
Blue Water Kayak Tours runs an excellent
day trip for active souls to the northern tip
of Bribie Island.
Caloundra Cruise CRUISE
(% 07-5492 8280; www.caloundracruise.com;
adult/child/family $20/10/52) Caloundra Cruise
has a great 1½-hour eco-explorer cruise
through the Pumicestone Passage.
Sunshine Coast Skydivers SKYDIVING
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M
(% 07-54370211;www.sunshinecoastskydivers.com.
au; Caloundra Aerodrome; tandem jumps from
$249) Get a bird’s-eye view of Caloundra
with the popular Sunshine Coast Skydivers.
4 Sleeping
There’s often a minimum three-night stay in
high season.
Caloundra Backpackers HOSTEL $
(% 07-5499 7655; www.caloundrabackpackers.com.
au; 84 Omrah Ave; dm/d $28/65; iW ) A practi-
cal budget option with a popular lounge
and two decent kitchens. The dorms are a
little bland but it’s peaceful and well located.
There is free bike, surfboard and stand-up
paddleboard hire.
Dicky Beach Family ¨
N lo
S
Holiday Park
aeo
CAMPING GROUND $
reo
(% 07-5491 3342; www.dicky.com.au; 4 Beerburrum
sa
poi ng
St; unpowered/powered sites $32/35, cabins from
c&htyh e S u ns h i n e C oast
$90; a W s ) You can’t get any closer to one
of Caloundra’s most popular beaches. The
brick cabins are as ordered and tidy as the
grounds and there’s a small swimming pool
for the kids.
City Centre Motel MOTEL $$
(% 07-5491 3301; www.mymotel.net.au; 20 Orsovar
Tce; d $109-129; a ) The Golden Chain motel
is the closest to the city centre. The seven
rooms are basic and comfortable.
Rumba Resort RESORT $$$
(% 07-5492 0555; www.rumbaresort.com.au; Leed-
ing Tce, Bulcock Beach; r from $260) This new
five-star resort is ultra trendy for Caloundra.
Staff are positively buoyant and the rooms
and pool area live up to the hype.
5 Eating & Drinking
The Bulcock Beach esplanade has a number
of alfresco cafes and restaurants, all with
perfect sea views.
Saltwater@Kings CAFE $$
(% 07-5437 2260; 8 Levuka Ave, Kings Beach; mains
$16-38; h breakfast, lunch & dinner) The most
established restaurant in town is on King’s
Beach. We loved the cheesy gnocchi pudding
with crab and the chook breast pocket but
others rave about the spoon-licking desserts.
La Dolce Vita ITALIAN $$
(% 07-5438 2377; Shop 1, Rumba Resort, 10 Leed-
ing Tce; mains $20-35; h breakfast, lunch & dinner)
This modern Italian restaurant has a stylish
black-and-white theme, but it’s best to sit out-
doors behind the large glass-windowed booth
for alfresco dining with gorgeous sea views.
Tides SEAFOOD $$$
(% 07-5438 2304; 26 Esplanade, Bulcock Beach;
mains $35-50; h lunch & dinner) The views of
the Pumicestone Passage are matched by
the seafood and steak at this high-end res-
taurant, though you’ll pay for the privilege.
CBX PUB
(12 Bulcock St) Live bands and DJs on week-
ends make this the local party scene. Pub
meals available.
88 Information
Sunshine Coast Visitor Centre (% 07-5478
2233; 7 Caloundra Rd; h 9am-5pm) On the
roundabout at the entrance to the town.
There’s also a kiosk in the main street.
88 Getting There & Away
The bus terminal (Cooma Tce) is one block back
from Bulcock Beach. Sunbus (% 13 12 30) runs
shuttles to Noosa ($6.60, 1½ hours) that stop in
Maroochydore ($3.70, 50 minutes). Greyhound
(% 1300 473 946; www.greyhound.com.au) has
buses to/from Brisbane ($36, two hours).
Maroochy
POP 47,000
The Sunshine Coast suburbs of Maroochy-
dore, Alexandra Headland and Mooloolaba,
collectively known as Maroochy, were once
bastions of the Australian surfing scene, but
these days their coastal charm is giving way
to a steady suburban sprawl and ugly high-
rise development.
The beaches themselves are still captivat-
ing, though. Mooloolaba is perhaps the hip-

pest of the bunch, having the longest beach-
es, the most consistent surf and a plethora
of cafes, shops and colourful rental houses.
Maroochydore takes its name from the lo-
cal Aboriginal word, murukutchi-da, mean-
ing ‘home of the black swan’.
1 Sights & Activities
Underwater World AQUARIUM
(% 07-5458 6280; www.underwaterworld.com.au;
Wharf, Mooloolaba; adult/child/family $35/23/96;
h 9am-5pm) New enclosures at Queensland’s
largest oceanarium include the Turtle Tem-
ple and Bay of Rays. There’s also a touch
tank, seal shows and educational spiels to
entertain both kids and adults.
Scuba World DIVING
(% 07-5444 8595; www.scubaworld.com.au; Wharf,
Mooloolaba; dives from $119; h 9am-5pm Mon-Sat,
10.30am-4pm Sun) These guys arrange shark
dives (certified/uncertified divers $195/245)
at Underwater World, coral dives off the
coast and a wreck dive of the ex-HMAS Bris-
bane. Professional Association of Diving In-
structors (PADI) courses are available.
Steve Irwin’s Whale One WHALE WATCHING
(% 1800 942 531; www.whaleone.com.au; The
Wharf, Parkyn Pde; adult/child/family $119/79/320)
For those who can’t make it north to Hervey
Bay, these whale-watching cruises in Sep-
tember and October are held on a fairly
luxurious vessel.
Robbie Sherwell’s ¨
XL Surfing Academy SURFING
(% 07-5478 1337; www.robbiesherwell.com.au; 1hr
lessons private/group $95/45) Book a lesson
with surfing legend Robbie Sherwell at his
established school based in Mooloolaba.
Sunshine Coast ¨
Bike & Board Hire SURFBOARD RENTAL
(% 0439 706 206; www.adventurehire.com.au)
Hires out surfboards (per day $25), bikes
(per day $30) and bodyboards (per day $30).
Hire Hut KAYAK RENTAL
(% 07-5444 0366; www.oceanjetski.com.au; Wharf,
Parkyn Pde, Mooloolaba) Hires out kayaks ($25
per two hours), stand-up paddleboards ($35
per two hours), jet skis ($100 per hour) and
boats ($42/75 per hour/half-day).
4 Sleeping
Mooloolaba Beach Backpackers HOSTEL $
(% 07-5444 3399; www.mooloolababackpackers.
com; 75 Brisbane Rd; dm/d $28/70; iWs ) Pret-
3 39
ty rough around the edges but it’s the only
real backpackers in the area and it’s only
500m to the beach. Avoid the self-catering
facilities and concentrate on taking advan-
tage of the free bikes, kayaks, surfboards
and stand-up paddleboards.
Mooloolaba Beach ¨
Caravan Park CAMPING GROUND $
(% 07-5444 1201; www.maroochypark.qld.gov.au;
Parkyn Pde; powered sites from $35) This little
beauty fronts lovely Mooloolaba Beach.
Kyamba Court Motel MOTEL $$
(% 07-5444 0202; www.kyambacourtmotel.com.au;
94 Brisbane Rd; d Mon-Fri $95, Sat $130; a W s )
Exceptional value for the over-inflated
Mooloola region, Kyamba fronts the canal
and has large, comfortable rooms. It’s a
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M
short walk into town and to the beach.
Landmark Resort RESORT $$
(% 07-5444 5555; www.landmarkresort.com.au;
cnr Esplanade & Burnett St; studios/1-bedroom apt
from $170/230; aiW s ) A trusted skyrise
with superlative views and a plum loca-
tion 20m from Mooloolaba’s cafe strip and
beach. There’s a heated lagoon-style pool,
and a rooftop spa and barbecue.
Coral Sea Apartments APARTMENT $$
(% 07-5479 2999; www.coralsea-apartments.com;
35-37 Sixth Ave; 1-/2-bedroom apt from $160/190;
ais ) These tastefully furnished apart-
ments with balconies occupy a lovely spot
close to Maroochy Surf Club and the beach.
5 Eating
Nio
S
ago
Nude CAFE $
rho
sa
(Shop 3, Mooloolaba Esplanade; dishes $6-18;
ts
o c&&htAct
h breakfast & lunch) After a successful stint at
Cotton Tree, this alfresco cafe has hit the Es-
yh e iSvui tns
planade and makes the ideal spot for people-
watching, and for ocean views with your
latte or fresh sandwich.
i ehs i n e C oast
Raw Energy CAFE $
(Mantra, Esplanade; dishes $6-18; h breakfast &
lunch) In this popular beachside cafe, pretty
young things serve up tofu, tempeh and
gluten-free meals with ‘zinger’ juices. Muf-
fin addicts will think they’ve found The One.
Mojo’s CAFE $
(% 07-5443 3341; 2/1 King St, Cotton Tree; sand-
wiches $6-9) Mojo’s is one of those East Coast
Oz surf cafes that churn out the health
shakes, juices, salads and sandwiches. Eve-
ryone on both sides of the counter is pretty,
340
healthy and hungry for more. It’s fairly or- and on to Noosa. The local bus interchange is at
ganic and sensitive to dietary requirements. the Sunshine Plaza.

Boat Shed SEAFOOD $$

(% 07-5443 3808; Esplanade, Cotton Tree; mains
$25-35; h lunch daily, dinner Mon-Sat) The loca-
tion on the Maroochy River complements
the enticing seafood starter menu but the
service fell short when we visited. A safe
bet is to drink cocktails at sunset under the
cotton trees and maybe nibble at seared
scallops or tuna carpaccio ($19 each) as the
mood takes you.
Karma Waters MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(Mantra, Esplanade; mains $21-32; h breakfast,
lunch & dinner) Another outdoor eatery along
the lively Esplanade, Karma Waters dishes up
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef A
A round Maroochy
Coolum Beach and Peregian Beach are
both favourites with local surfers when
there’s a good swell. Point Perry is a won-
derful vantage point for that quintessential
Aussie summer snap, while intrepid photo­
graphers (and anyone else for that mat-
ter) can climb Mount Coolum (208m) for
bird’s-eye vistas. Get details at the visitor
information office (David Low Way; h 9am-
5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) – look for it off the
main drag from Maroochy towards Coolum
and Peregian.

Mod Oz cuisine with a Portuguese influence.

Bella Venezia ITALIAN $$$
4 Sleeping
Villa Coolum MOTEL $
(% 07-5444 5844; 95 Esplanade; mains $25-38;
(% 07-5446 1286; www.villacoolum.com; 102
h lunch & dinner) Locals gather at this arcade
Coolum Tce, Coolum Beach; r $79-99; s ) Spa-
restaurant and wine bar that serves delicious
cious motel-style rooms fronting a long bal-
Aus-Italian food and strictly Italian wines.
cony.
The duck salad, veal meatballs and the entire
secondi menu are highly recommended. Coolum Beach ¨
Caravan Park CAMPING GROUND $
6 Drinking & Nightlife (% 1800 461 474; David Low Way, Coolum; sites
oMooloolaba SLSC SURF CLUB unpowered/powered $32/35) Beachfront and
(Esplanade; h 10am-10pm Sun-Thu, to midnight basic with plenty of grass on which to shake
Fri & Sat) Right on the beach, Mooloolaba’s the sand from your undies.
iconic surf club has floor-to-ceiling windows
Retreat Beach Houses HOLIDAY HOUSE $$
affording stunning views during the day and
(% 07-5448 1922; www.theretreat.com.au; 390
suntanned dance-floor antics by night. The
David Low Way, Peregian Beach; house from $165;
food is also very good.
paWs ) These gorgeous modern houses
Nr
D

Club WT CLUB nestled in sand dunes have their own pri-

oo

(Wharf, Parkyn Pde; h Tue & Thu-Sat) At this hi- vate track to Peregian Beach.
ionk
usa

tech club, formerly known as Friday’s, the

nd

5 Eating
i ng

dance-floor antics are still the same. It’s

& Mt&

inside the otherwise family-friendly Wharf Spirit House THAI $$

ahreNoiSg

Tavern. (% 07-5446 8977; www.spirithouse.com.au; 20

Nindery Rd, Yandina; mains $20-25; a ) This new
ouh
cns

88 Information contemporary Asian restaurant and cooking

thlyhi fi n

Sunshine Coast Visitor Information Centre school is considered by foodies to be among

the finest of its type in Australia.
e e C oast

(% 1800 644 969; www.maroochytourism.com;

h 9am-5pm) Maroochydore (cnr Sixth Ave &
Melrose St); Mooloolaba (cnr Brisbane Rd & Pitchfork MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$

First Ave); Sunshine Coast Airport (Friendship
Dr, Sunshine Coast Airport)
88 Getting There & Around
Long-distance buses stop in front of Maroochy-
dore’s Sunshine Coast visitor information cen-
tre. Sunbus (% 13 12 30) has frequent services
between Mooloolaba and Maroochydore ($2)
(% 07-5471 3697; 5/4 Kingfisher Dr, Peregian Beach;
mains $25-35) On the edge of the Peregian
Beach square, Pitchfork is an unsung hero
of the Sunshine Coast eating scene. Crispy
fried soft-shell crab ($17) and hot smoked
salmon linguini ($29) were both tremen-
dous. Best of all, it’s BYO and there’s a bottle
shop next door!

Cooloola Coast
Running from its southern tip at Noosa
to Rainbow Beach in the north is 50km of
gloriously undeveloped Cooloola Coast.
Wildlife abounds, but a fair amount of 4WD
through-traffic means your starry nights are
not always spent in silence.
Nevertheless, travelling north here is a
real buzz, as you forgo the bitumen for low
tidal highways, passing the Teewah Col-
oured Sands and the wreck of the Cherry
Venture, swept ashore in 1973.
Lake Cooroibah
Where the Noosa River widens into the
wondrous Lake Cooroibah, you’ll find sur-
prisingly thick bushland – a popular base for
engaging with the natural environment.
Lake Cooroibah is about 2km north of
Tewantin. From the end of Moorindil St in
Tewantin, you can catch the Noosa North
Shore Ferry (% 07-5447 1321; per pedestrian/
car one way $1/6; h 5.30am-10.20pm Sun-Thu,
5am-12.20am Fri & Sat) up to the lake in a con-
ventional vehicle and camp along sections of
the beach.
Gagaju Backpackers (% 1300 302 271,
07-5474 3522; www.tripod.com/gagaju; 118 Johns
Dr, Tewantin; unpowered sites/dm $10/15; i ) Si
a riverside eco-wilderness camp with basic
dorms constructed out of recycled timber.
There’s a somewhat hands-off managerial
approach, unless a good party is involved!
Don’t forget to bring food and mozzie repel-
lent. A courtesy shuttle runs to and from
Noosa twice a day.
A touch more luxury is found at the Noo-
sa North Shore Retreat (% 07-5447 1225;
www.noosanorthshoreretreat.com.au; Beach Rd;
unpowered/powered sites from $15/24, r from $145,
cabins from $65; ais ). Choose from a tent
or a shiny motel room, then break up your
day with stints paddling around the lake,
bushwalking or tracking marsupials.
There’s also the recently overhauled
Great Sandy Bar & Restaurant (Noosa
North Shore Retreat; mains $15-25; h lunch & din-
ner; p c ), a great place for a long lunch or
to mark the beginning and end of a 4WD
adventure.
Lake Cootharaba
A little further northwest of Tewantin is
Lake Cootharaba, the gateway to the Noosa
everglades, offering bushwalking, canoeing
341
and bush camping. This pretty water reserve
is some 10km long and 5km across. A good
entry to the lake is at Boreen Point, a re-
laxed little community with several places to
stay and to eat.
From Boreen Point, an unsealed road
leads another 5km up to Elanda Point.
For kayaking enthusiasts, Kanu Kapers
(% 07-5485 3328; www.kanukapersaustralia.com;
11 Toolara St, Boreen Point; kayak hire per day $65)
offers guided or self-guided trips (per person
$75, overnight trip $115) into the everglades.
Lake Escapades (% 07-5641 4473; www.la-
keescapades.com.au; 49 Laguna St, Boreen Point;
canoe hire per day per person $99, 3-day camping
safaris $139) hires out canoes and kayaks for
self-guided trips. The company also operates a
water taxi to Kinaba (one way/return $15/30).
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C
On the river, the quiet and simple Boreen
Point Camping Ground (% 07-5485 3244;
Teewah St, Dun’s Beach, Boreen Point; unpowered/
powered sites $15/22) is dominated by large
gums and native bush, while the two self-
contained Lake Cootharaba Gallery Units
(% 07-5485 3153; 64 Laguna St, Boreen Point; r
from $99; s ) are homey and practical.
The Apollonian Hotel (% 07-5485 3100;
Laguna St, Boreen Point; mains $12-30; h lunch &
dinner) is a gorgeous old pub with sturdy tim-
ber walls, shady verandahs and a beautifully
s preserved interior. The pub grub is tasty and
popular, especially the Sunday spit-roast
lunch which always features live local music.
You can sleep very comfortably in restored
railway quarters ($65).
N OOLOOL
Eat
Great Sandy National Park
o oi sa
(Cooloola)
ng & A
This 54,000-hectare national park sports a
t hCeOA
varied wilderness of mangroves, forest and
heathland that is traversed by the Noosa Riv-
S uS ns
er. You can navigate a 4WD through the park
all the way north to Rainbow Beach. Activity
T h i n e C oast
options include kayaking and walking with
some fantastic trails starting from Elanda
Point on the shore of Lake Cootharaba, in-
cluding the 46km Cooloola Wilderness Trail
to Rainbow Beach and a 7km trail to an un-
staffed QPWS information centre at Kinaba.
Before you go, pop into the QPWS Great
Sandy Information Centre (% 07-5449 7792;
240 Moorindil St, Tewantin; h 8am-4pm), which
can provide information on park access, tide
times and fire bans within the park. The
centre issues car and camping permits for
both Fraser Island and Great Sandy National
Park.
342
2592; 31 Main St; dishes $12-24; h breakfast, lunch
NEW YEAR’S MUSIC AT & dinner) is a little folk music bolthole worth
WOODFORD a visit.
Midway between Mapleton and Maleny
The famous Woodford Folk Festival
is Montville, a dinky trinket town popular
(www.woodfordfolkfestival.com) features
with short-term visitors escaping the steamy
over 2000 national and international
coast. There’s an antique-clock emporium,
performers playing folk, traditional
candy-making display centre, cafes, pubs
Irish, indigenous and world music, as
and a contender for ‘best view from a car
well as buskers, belly dancers, craft
park’. The area is brimming with B&Bs – ask
markets, visual-arts performances, en-
the information centre (% 07-5478 5544; 198
vironmental talks and a visiting squad
Main St; h 10am-4pm) for up-to-date listings
of Tibetan monks. The festival is held on
and vacancies.
a property near Woodford, 35km north-
A little further west through the Blackall
west of Caboolture, from 27 December
Ranges is Kenilworth, a friendly ‘outdoorsy’
to 1 January each year. Camping
village in the Mary River Valley.
grounds are set up on the property but
be prepared for a mud bath if it rains.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef S

Shuttle buses run regularly from the

Caboolture train station to and from the DARLING DOWNS
festival grounds.
Queensland’s breadbasket is a rich pastoral
tapestry of rolling greens and grainy hues
that make a relaxing detour from the coast.
The most popular (and best-equipped)
The lush and picturesque countryside of the
camping grounds are Fig Tree Point (at the
Granite Belt supports an up-and-coming
northern end of Lake Cootharaba), Harry’s
wine region and a thriving fruit industry
Hut (about 4km upstream) and Freshwater
(ably supported by young itinerant work-
(about 6km south of Double Island Point) on
ers). The dramatic boulder-and-bush land-
the coast. You can also camp (per person/
scapes of Girraween and Sundown National
family $5.85/21.80) at designated zones on
Parks attract walkers and wildflower hunt-
the beach if you’re driving up to Rainbow
ers alike, while the stately city of Toowoom-
Beach. Apart from Harry’s Hut, Freshwater
ba is famed for its gardens.
and Teewah Beach, all sites are accessible by
Further north, the Bunya Mountains Na-
hiking or river only.
tional Park is filled with high-altitude pines
and prehistoric grasses that skirt the Great
Dividing Range. Inland, huge sheep and cot-
Sunshine Coast
Da
G

ton farms run west into the outback, where

u
e tt

Hinterland
ns
r l ihng

you can leave your ride in the highest gear

Inland from Nambour, the Blackall Range and roll out into the great unknown.
i n eD

creates a scenic hinterland with rather

Th

chintzy rustic villages. The scenic Mapleton– 88 Getting There & Away
o
C ewns
oast

Maleny road runs along the ridge of the

r e & HAway

Greyhound Australia (% 1300 473 946; www.

range, past rainforests at Mapleton Falls greyhound.com.au) has connections from
National Park, 4km northwest of Mapleton. Brisbane to Toowoomba ($26, two hours), Roma
i nt e r l and

It’s worth walking to the bottom for a spec-
tacularly refreshing swim.
Kondalilla National Park is 3km north-
west of Montville. Both Mapleton and Kon-
dalilla waterfalls plunge more than 80m, and
their lookouts offer wonderful forest views.
The largest town in the region is Maleny,
a green and scenic mountain town famous
for its bohemian spirit. Maleny Lodge (% 07-
5494 2370; www.malenylodge.com.au; 58 Maple
St; s/d from $180/200; Ws ) is a Victorian-
era guesthouse accurately appointed with
period furniture. Up Front Club (% 07-5494
($86, eight hours) and Stanthorpe ($75, 4½
hours).
Crisps’ Coaches (% 07-4661 8333; www.
crisps.com.au) is the biggest local operator,
offering services from Brisbane to Stanthorpe
($60, 3½ hours).
The Queensland Rail (% 13 22 32, 1300
131 722; www.traveltrain.com.au) Westlander
runs twice weekly from Brisbane to Charleville
(economy seat/sleeper $112/177, 17 hours) on
Tuesday and Thursday, returning on Wednesday
and Friday, stopping in Toowoomba (from $35,
four hours) and Roma (economy seat/sleeper
$82/148, 11 hours).

Stanthorpe
POP 5385
Queensland’s coolest town (literally), at an
altitude of 915m, Stanthorpe has a distinct
four-season climate. It’s a winter retreat
where normally sweltering Queenslanders
can relax in front of a fire or enjoy a red from
one of the 50 boutique wineries in the region.
The annual Brass Monkey Festival is
celebrated here from June to August with a
parade of music events and food fiestas in
town and at various wineries.
The Strange Bird Alternative Wine
Trail sings a palatable tune. Sample tem-
343
of Girraween walks is the 10.4km trek to the
top of Mt Norman (1267m).
4 Sleeping
Country Style CABIN, CAMPGROUND $
(% 07-4683 4358; www.countrystyleaccommodation.
com.au; 27,156 New England Hwy; camp sites/caravan
sites/cabins $20/25/100; i ) Amid 5 hectares of
bushland, Country Style has basic motel-style
cabins with small kitchens and wood-burning
fires. Peaceful, unpowered camp sites over-
look the Severn River. It’s on the highway to
Ballandean, 10km south of Stanthorpe.
Briar Rose Cottages COTTAGE $

pranillo, barbera, viognier and other grapes (% 07-4683 6334; www.briarrosecottages.com.au;

more suited to the Granite Belt climate than 66 Wallangarra Rd; d Sun-Thu $95, Fri & Sat $110)
more traditional varieties. Maps are avail- These cute cottages are small in size but big

Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef S

able at the visitor centre, or check out www.
granitebeltwinecountry.com.au.
Located 17km south of Stanthorpe, Gir-
raween National Park is home to tower-
ing granite boulders, pristine forests and
brilliant blooms of springtime wildflowers.
There’s a number of good trails here. The
shortest path is a 3km walk and scramble up
the 1080m Pyramids, while the granddaddy
on romance.
Diamondvale B&B Cottages COTTAGE $$
(% 07-4681 3367; www.diamondvalecottages.com.
au; 26 Diamondvale Rd; d from $170; W ) Charm-
ing hosts and a bushland setting outside
Stanthorpe make Diamondvale popular with
return visitors. There are four cottages, each
with charming old-fashioned details. You can
follow the creek 2km and stroll into town.

TOP VINEYARDS & GRANITE BELT DELICACIES

Alongside the pinots and cabernets, the hot and dry Granite Belt region produces some
less common Iberian varieties such as tempranillo and verdelho. With dozens of wineries
offering free tastings, you could easily spend a week or more sampling the fruits of the
region. The following are on the free map available at the Stanthorpe tourist office (p345).
¨¨Summit Estate (% 07-4683 2011; www.summitestate.com.au; 291 Granite Belt Drive, Da
Thulimbah; h 10am-4.30pm daily) Overseen by a reputed Argentinean winemaker and
ltant
erelpi ng

owned by a group of wine lovers from Brisbane. Don’t miss the pinot noir.
¨¨Symphony Hill (% 07-4684 1388; www.symphonyhill.com.au; 2017 Eukey Rd, Ballandean;
ihng
or

h 10am-4pm) A family affair that produces a number of interesting reds.

D poewns

¨¨Ballandean (% 07-4684 1226; www.ballandeanestate.com; 354 Sundown Rd, Ballandean) One

of Queensland’s oldest wineries, with free tours (11am, 1pm and 3pm) and a restaurant.
¨¨Pyramids Road (% 07-4684 5151; www.pyramidsroad.com; 25 Wyberba Rd, Balladean;
h 10am-4.30pm Thu-Mon) On the road to Girraween National Park.
¨¨Robert Channon (% 07-4683 3260; www.robertchannonwines.com; 32 Bradley Lane,
Stanthorpe; h 11am-4pm Mon-Tue & Fri, 10am-5pm Sat-Sun) Trophy-winning verdelho and a
fine lunch restaurant with lake views.
¨¨Vincenzo’s (% 07-4683 2033; New England Hwy, Stanthorpe; h 8.30am-5pm) An
enormous deli emporium with a fine cafe.
¨¨Granite Belt Dairy (% 07-4685 2277; 4 Duncan Lane, Thulimbah; h 10am-4pm) What’s
wine without cheese? It’s all available for sampling, plus there are fantastic milkshakes,
cheesecake, breads, chutneys and other picnic fare.
¨¨Bramble Patch (% 07-4683 4205; 381 Townsend Rd, Stanthorpe; h 10am-4pm) Berry
grower worth visiting for the ice cream with homemade berry compote, waffles with
berries and fresh fruits (November to April).
344
Commercial Hotel HOTEL $$
(% 07-4681 2244; www.stanthorpeaccommodation.
com; Maryland St, Stanthorpe; d $100; h Fri & Sat
only) Compact pub-style rooms with tasteful
decor and small writing desks. Excellent for
a dirty weekend; the wine bar 1915 is down-
stairs.
Ballandean Tavern Motel MOTEL $$
(% 07-4684 1044; www.ballandeantavern.com.au;
cnr St Jude’s Rd & Eukey Rd, Ballandean; d from
$120; p a ) This new brick motel alongside
the excellent older pub is the best-value
accommodation in town. The large double
rooms have ensuite bathrooms and modern,
highly functional furniture.
Murray Gardens MOTEL, CABIN $$
(% 07-4681 4121; www.murraygardens.com.au; 10
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef S
Pancor Rd; motel r $95-125, cottages $189-239;
a W ) Set on 8 hectares of natural bushland
on the outskirts of town, Murray Gardens
is ideal for families with children. You can
choose between a motel room or a fully self-
contained cottage with a fireplace or gas
heating.
oAzjure Studio Retreat BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(% 0405 127 070; www.azjure.com.au; 165 Sundown
Rd, Ballandean; from $275; paW ) Queensland
country style meets contemporary design in
these three spacious spa studios and a two-
bedroom villa. Hot tubs overlook grazing
kangaroos, the rooms are appointed well be-
yond the Granite Belt standard – including
an excellent book and DVD collection – and
the owners are very knowledgeable about
Da
Eat
the local wine scene.
tant
rilng
Vineyard Cottages COTTAGE $$$
i ng
ho
(% 07-4684 1270; www.vineyardcottages.com.au;
&r
28126 New England Hwy, Ballandean; cottage from
DDporewns
$230) Highly recommended cottages on the
i nk i ng
STORM KING DAM
To get to Storm King Dam, 10km south
of Stanthorpe, turn left on Eukey Rd
and zip between vineyards and granite
boulders, around grassy hairpins and
follow the old tin signs. When you get
there, have a picnic, swim, leap off a
pontoon, take it all in, then cut straight
for the back entrance to Giraween Na-
tional Park. By now the normal world
feels very, very far away.
highway through Ballandean set in a con-
verted church.
Girraween Environmental Lodge CABIN $$$
(% 07-4684 5138; www.girraweenlodge.com.au;
Pyramids Rd; cabins $280; s ) S An eco-friend-
ly bushland retreat set on 162 hectares adja-
cent to the national park. There’s an outdoor
spa and plunge pool.
5 Eating & Drinking
Patty’s on McGregor MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-4681 3463; 2 McGregor Tce; mains $28-36;
h dinner Thu-Sat) An intimate and artsy vibe
resonates throughout this unassuming little
place in a residential area. Prices are a lit-
tle high but the service is excellent and the
rotating menu features mostly organic fare.
Queensland College of ¨
Wine Tourism MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-4685 5050; cnr New England Hwy & Caves
Rd; mains $15-34; h 10am-3pm Tue-Sun) The el-
egant Varias features the delectable handi-
work of student chefs at the college. The
‘medley of mains’ menu ($40) includes four
courses, wine and coffee. Floor-to-ceiling
windows overlook the vineyard.
Barrel Room MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-4684 1326; Ballandean Estate Wines, Sun-
down Rd; mains $18-29; h 10am-4pm Wed-Mon,
6-8pm Fri & Sat) This cosy restaurant, framed
by 140-year-old floor-to-ceiling wine barrels,
is the pick of the many winery restaurants.
Anna’s Restaurant ITALIAN $$
(% 07-4681 1265; cnr Wallangarra Rd & O’Mara
Tce; mains $19-33; h dinner Tue-Sat) A family-
run Italian BYO restaurant set in a pretty
Queenslander, Anna’s is famous locally for
its weekend buffets ($30 to $35).
Shiraz MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$$
(% 07-4684 1000; 28,200 New England Hwy; mains
$33-35; h lunch & dinner Wed-Sun) Hidden
behind a hedge, opposite the Triceratops
statue in Ballandean, Shiraz is a small res-
taurant with a deserved reputation for ex-
cellence. Wines are matched accordingly by
the warm, relaxed staff. The Angus beef fillet
and the fish dishes get a lot of attention but
we loved the mushroom ravioli and desserts.
Bar 1915 WINE BAR
(Maryland St, Stanthorpe; h 6pm-midnight Fri &
Sat ) An attractive wine bar in the wonder-
fully renovated Commercial Hotel. Dress
standards apply.

88 Information
Stanthorpe Visitors Centre (% 07-4681 2057;
www.granitebeltwinecountry.com.au; 28 Leslie
Pde; h 9am-5pm)
Toowoomba
POP 96,568
On the edge of a plateau of the Great Divid-
ing Range, some 700m above breathtaking
Lockyer Valley, lies Toowoomba, Queens-
land’s largest inland city. Despite its great
location, there’s not a lot to do, but the
cooler climate produces an array of dazzling
gardens, which are celebrated with particu-
lar fervour during the fabulous Carnival of
Flowers in September.
Picnic Point, on the eastern outskirts of
town, offers outstanding views and a decent
walking trail.
1 Sights
Cobb & Co Museum MUSEUM
(27 Lindsay St; adult/child $12.50/6.50; h 10am-
4pm, tours 10.30am) The ever-expanding Cobb
& Co Museum is more than a collection of
carriages and traps from the horse-drawn
age; it’s also a showcase for Toowoomba’s
Indigenous and multicultural communities,
and includes a children’s play area.
Queen’s Park GARDENS
(cnr Lindsay & Campbell Sts) Queen’s Park hous-
es the botanic gardens. Its vast open spaces
are popular with sporty types and there are
plenty of shaded areas for the picnic set.
Ju Raku En Japanese Garden Great Dividing Range.
GARDENS
(West St; h 7am-dusk) A beautiful garden
with 3km of walking trails, waterfalls and
streams.
Toowoomba Regional Art Gallery GALLERY
(% 07-4688 6652; 531 Ruthven St; h 10am-4pm Tue-
Sat, 1-4pm Sun) F This small gallery houses
the Lionel Lindsay Art Collection of paint-
ings, fine art and drawings, and an interest-
ing collection of rare books.
4 Sleeping
Book well ahead if visiting during Septem-
ber’s Carnival of Flowers festival.
Toowoomba Motor ¨
Village Tourist Park CAMPGROUND, CABIN $
(% 07-4635 8186; www.toowoombamotorvillage.
com.au; 821 Ruthven St; camp sites $20-31, cabins &
345
units $55-100) Excellent, modern park, 2.5km
south of the centre, with terrific views.
Vacy Hall GUESTHOUSE $$
(% 07-4639 2055; www.vacyhall.com.au; 135 Rus-
sell St; d $120-197; W ) Just uphill from the
town centre, this magnificent 1880s man-
sion offers 12 heritage-style rooms with
loads of romantic old-world charm. The
collection of artwork and antiques placed
throughout befits a small gallery.
James Cottage B&B $$
(% 07-4637 8377; www.jamescottage.com; 128
James St; d $150-165) An elegant B&B in an
early-20th-century Queenslander, James
Cottage has two fine guest bedrooms and an
open fireplace. It’s a short walk into town.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef To
City Golf Club Motel MOTEL $$
(% 07-4636 9999; www.citygolfmotel.com.au; 775
Ruthven St; d from $169; p a W s ) No need
to like golf to stay here (thankfully!). The
45 new mini-apartments are laid out like a
permanent residential complex with guest
access to the fine lap pool, spa, wi-fi, BBQ
area and golf course (at a discount). It’s a
short walk into town proper, though there is
a good restaurant in the clubhouse.
Ecoridge Hideaway CHALET $$
(% 07-4630 9636; www.ecoridgehideaway.com.au;
712 Rockmount Rd, Preston; r from $130) Ecoridge
is a pleasant alternative to the fairly bland
accommodation scene in town. It’s 15km
from Toowoomba on the road to Gatton and
consists of three stylish self-contained cha-
lets set in harmony with the surrounding
Dafo
In
o
r lwri o
Park Motor Inn
ng
MOTEL $$
mat
o mba
(% 07-4632 1011; www.parktoowoomba.com.au; 88
Di o wns
Margaret St; s/d $120/130; a ) This comfortably
n
furnished motel has a handy and quiet loca-
tion opposite leafy Queens Park. It’s close to
a couple of popular cafes.
Central Plaza Hotel HOTEL $$
(% 07-4688 5333; www.toowoombacentralplaza.
com.au; 523 Ruthven St; apt from $175; a s )
Award-winning hotel complex with colour-
ful, well-designed apartments, a rooftop pool,
a cafe and exceptional executive suites.
5 Eating & Drinking
Park House Cafe MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-4638 2211; 92 Margaret St; mains $19-
29; h breakfast & lunch daily, dinner Wed-Sat)
Queensland simplicity reigns in this relaxed
346
cottage cafe. Burgers are the lunch of choice
and dinner is dependable grilled meat, sea-
food and pasta. Choose between verandah
and patio seating.
Qi’lin CHINESE $$
(% 07-4613 1233; Shop 29, 187 Hume St; mains $12-
21; h lunch & dinner Tue-Sun) A glitzy Chinese
restaurant on the edge of a shopping cen-
tre parking lot. Absolutely delicious off the
menu with clean, flavoursome seafood and
tofu dishes the highlight. Buffet lunch ($19)
and dinner ($29) are very popular with local
gluttons.
Oxygen Café CAFE $$
(cnr Ruthven & Little Sts; mains $10-24; h break-
fast & lunch Tue-Sun, dinner Thu-Sat; v ) Quality
Queensl and & the
can pseudo-camp in pre-erected safari tents
($29 to $36), which come complete with
mattress.
A further 167km west, on the main street
in Miles, is Dogwood Crossing (% 07-4628
5566; www.dogwoodcrossing.com; h 9am-5pm
Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun), a $1.6-million
community project that combines visual
arts, social history and literature into a
museum, gallery, library and multimedia
resource centre. You can bed down for the
night in a refurbished underground bunker
or a converted troop train at Possum Park
(% 07-4627 1651; Leichhardt Hwy; d from $90).
Munitions were stored in these bunkers dur-
ing WWII as part of Australia’s prepared last
line of defence against the advancing Japa-
nese. There’s also a campground.

organic food on Ruthven St at this colourful

cafe with a regular clientele. The breakfasts
are tasty but smallish, but the burgers (vege-
tarian, grilled yellow fin tuna) and sandwich-
es are great for lunch. It has recently opened
for dinner; try the Indian-influenced dishes.
Cube Hotel BAR, CLUB
the Gre
Some 350km west of Toowoomba lies
Roma, an early Queensland settlement that
is today the centre of a sheep- and cattle-
raising district. The town’s major land-
mark is the Big Rig Complex (% 07-4622
4355; www.thebigrig.com.au; Warrego Hwy; adult/
child $10/7, combined entry & night show $16/11;

(% 07-4632 4747; cnr Margaret & Neil Sts) This h 9am-5pm, night show 7pm daily Apr-Nov, Wed &
impressive entertainment complex features Sun Dec-Mar), a museum of oil and gas explo-
Great

a ‘stone grill’ restaurant, all-day cafe, cock- ration centred on the old steam-operated oil
tail bar and two levels of nightclubbing. The
at Barrier

rig at the eastern edge of town. There’s also

decibels increase tenfold on weekends. a sound-and-light show. In the same spot,
BarrierReef

the visitor information centre (% 07-4622

Spotted Cow PUB
8676; 2 Riggers Rd; h 9am-5pm) can help with
(cnr Ruthven & Campbell Sts) A youth-oriented
accommodation, especially handy if you’re
pub with a stack of different beers and good
stopping here en route to Carnarvon Gorge.
ReefFW

live rock music.

Easter in the Country is Roma’s annual
week-long celebration of country music and
88 Information
In
r as

life in western Queensland. It’s held in late

efo

The heart of downtown Toowoomba is around

st

March or early April.

errmat

Ruthven St (part of the north–south New Eng-

oIs

land Hwy, Rte 61) and Margaret St.

f lTo

The helpful Toowoomba Visitor Centre (86

iand

FRASER ISLAND & THE

oonw &

James St) is located southeast of the centre, at

the junction with Kitchener St.
FRASER COAST
o otmba
h e F r as e r C oast

World Heritage–listed Fraser Island is a

West of Toowoomba mystical land of giant dunes, ancient rain-
forests and luminous lakes.
About 45km west of Toowoomba is the
Across the calm waters of the Great Sandy
Jondaryan Woolshed Complex (% 07-4692
Strait, Hervey Bay is the launching pad to
2229; www.jondaryanwoolshed.com; 264 Evans-
Fraser. There’s a whiff of burgeoning beach-
lea Rd; adult/child $13/8; h 10am-4pm), which
cafe culture, but at heart it’s a mellow coast-
displays antique tractors and obscure farm
al community riding on the back of the an-
machinery. There are daily blacksmith-
nual humpback-whale migrations. Further
ing and shearing demonstrations – check
south, tiny Rainbow Beach is an unaffected
the website for times. To really get into the
seaside village and an alternative departure
pioneering spirit, try spending a night in
point for Fraser Island.
the shearers’ quarters ($17) or one of the
Inland, grazing and agricultural fields
self-contained cabins ($95 to $150). Or you
surround old-fashioned country towns.

Bundaberg, the largest city in the region,
overlooks a sea of waving sugar cane and
is famous for its golden rum – a fiery, gut-
churning spirit guaranteed to scramble a
few brain cells!
Fraser Island
POP 400
Fraser Island is the largest sand island in the
world (measuring 120km by 15km) and the
only place where rainforest grows on sand.
The Butchulla people call it K’Gari (para-
dise) which was created over hundreds of
thousands of years from sand drifting off the
east coast of mainland Australia.
Inland, the vegetation varies from dense
tropical rainforest and wild heath to wet-
lands and wallum scrub, with ‘sandblows’
(giant dunes over 200m high), mineral
streams and freshwater lakes opening onto
long sandy beaches fringed with pounding
surf. The island is home to a profusion of
bird life and wildlife, including the purest
strain of dingo in Australia, while offshore
waters teem with dugong, dolphins, sharks
and migrating humpback whales.
An ever-increasing volume of 4WD traffic
does detract from the experience somewhat.
With over 350,000 people visiting the island
each year, Fraser can sometimes feel like a
giant sandpit with its own peak hour and
congested beach highway.
Before crossing via ferry from either
Rainbow Beach or Hervey Bay, ensure that
your vehicle has suitably high clearance and,
if camping, that you have adequate food,
water and fuel. Driving on Fraser all looks
pretty relaxed in the brochure, but a sudden
tide change or an unseen pothole can set
your wheels spinning perilously.
History
Fraser Island takes its European name from
James and Eliza Fraser. The captain of the
Stirling Castle and his wife were ship-
wrecked on the northwest coast in 1836. He
died here, and she survived with help from
the local Aboriginal people.
As European settlers awoke to the value
of Fraser’s timber, that same tribe of people
was displaced (although not without a fight)
and tracts of rainforest were cleared in the
search for turpentine (satiny), a waterproof
wood prized by shipbuilders. The island’s
mineral sands were also mined for many
years.
3 47
In the late 20th century the focus shifted
from exploitation to protection. Sand min-
ing ceased in 1975 and logging ended in
1991. Fraser Island joined the World Herit-
age list in 1992.
1 Sights & Activities
Seventy-Five Mile Beach runs the length of
the island’s east coast and offers some capti-
vating scenery along the way. From Fraser’s
southern tip, use the high-tide access track
between Hook Point and Dilli Village, rather
than the beach. From here on, the eastern
beach is the main thoroughfare. Stock up at
nearby Eurong, the start of the inland track,
across to Central Station and Wanggoolba
Creek (for the ferry to River Heads).
In the middle of the island is Central Sta-
Queensl and & the
tion, the starting point for numerous walking
trails. Signposted tracks head to the beauti-
ful Lakes McKenzie, Jennings, Birrabeen
(with fewer tourists) and Boomanjin, in ef-
fect giant rainwater puddles ‘perched’ atop
a thin impermeable layer of decaying twigs
and leaves. Lore has it that rich mineral sand
the Gre
lends the lakes anti-ageing properties.
About 4km north of Eurong along the
Great
beach is a signposted walking trail to Lake
at Barrier
Wabby. An easier route is from the look-
out on the inland track. Wabby is edged
BarrierReef
on three sides by eucalypt forest, while the
fourth side is a massive sandblow, which is
encroaching on the lake at a rate of about
3m a year. The lake is deceptively shallow
ReefFFSrr
and diving is extremely dangerous. You can
ias
gas
hets
FRASER ISLAND GREAT WALK
errIs
The Fraser Island Great Walk is a stun-
&IslAct
ning way to see this enigmatic island
land
and
in all its diverse colours. The trail un-
i v&i ttihe es F r as e r C oast
dulates through the island’s interior
for 90km from Dilli Village to Happy
Valley. Broken up into sections of 6km
to 16km, plus some side trails, it follows
the pathways of Fraser Island’s original
inhabitants, the Butchulla people, and
passes underneath rainforest canopies,
through shifting dunes and alongside
some of the island’s vivid lakes.
Before you go, pick up the Fraser
Island Great Walk brochure from a
QPWS office (or download it from www.
derm.qld.gov.au) and seek updates on
the track’s conditions and book in ad-
vance to camp.
348

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Fraser Island
ÿ Sleeping
1 Dilli Village Fraser Island..................... C6
2 Eurong Beach Resort ...........................C5
3 Fraser Island Beachhouses.................C5
4 Fraser Island Retreat........................... C4
5 Frasers@Cathedral Beach ................. C4
6 Kingfisher Bay Resort ..........................B5
7 Sailfish on Fraser ................................. C4
often find turtles and huge catfish under the
trees in the eastern corner of the lake.
Driving north along the beach you’ll pass
Happy Valley, with many places to stay,
and Eli Creek. After rainfall this becomes a
fast-moving, crystal-clear waterway that will
carry you effortlessly downstream. Pretty
much everyone wanders knee-deep along its
pretty path. About 2km from Eli Creek is the
wreck of the Maheno, a passenger liner that
was blown ashore by a cyclone in 1935 while
being towed to a Japanese scrapyard.
Roughly 5km north of the Maheno you’ll
find the Pinnacles (a section of coloured
sand cliffs) and, about 10km beyond, Dun-
dubara. Then there’s a 20km stretch of
beach before you come to the rocky outcrop
of Indian Head, the best vantage point on
the island. Sharks, manta rays, dolphins and
(during the migration season) whales can of-
ten be spotted from the top of the headland.
From Indian Head the trail branches in-
land, passing the Champagne Pools, the
only safe spot on the island for saltwater
swimming. This inland road leads back to
Waddy Point and Orchid Beach, the last
settlement on the island. Many tracks north
of this are closed for environmental protec-
tion. The 30km of beach up to Sandy Cape –
the northern tip, with its lighthouse – is
off-limits to hire vehicles. The beach from
Sandy Cape to Rooney Point is closed to all
vehicles, as is the road from Orchid Beach to
Platypus Bay on the western coast.
On the island you can take a scenic flight
with MI Helicopters (% 07-4125 1599, 1800
600 345; www.mihelicopters.com.au; 25min flights
$230) or with Air Fraser (% 1800 600 345, 07-
4125 3600; www.airfraserisland.com.au; same day
return flight from Hervey Bay $125).
4 Sleeping & Eating
Camping is by far the best way to experi-
ence the island, but come prepared or pay
through the nose for supplies. Permits are
required at QPWS camping grounds and
3 49
any public area (ie along the beach). Camp-
ing is permitted on designated stretches of
the eastern beach, but there are no facilities.
Fires are prohibited, except in communal
fire rings at Waddy Point and Dundubara.
Dilli Village Fraser Island CAMPGROUND $
(% 07-4127 9130; unpowered/powered sites
$20/30, bunkrooms $40, cabins $100) This tidy
site perched on a gentle slope is run by the
University of the Sunshine Coast.
QPWS Camping Grounds CAMPGROUND $
(per person/family $5.85/21.80) The most de-
veloped QPWS camping grounds, with coin-
operated hot showers, toilets and barbecues,
are at Waddy Point, Dundubara and Cen-
tral Station. Campers with vehicles can also
use the smaller camping grounds with fewer
Queensl and & the
facilities at Lake Boomanjin, Ungowa and
Wathumba on the western coast. Walkers’
camps (for hikers only) are set away from
the main campgrounds along the Fraser Is-
land Great Walk trail. The trail map lists the
camp sites and their facilities.
the Gre
Fraser Island Retreat CABIN $$
(% 07-4127 9144; www.fraserisretreat.com.au;
Great
Happy Valley; cabins per 2 nights $330; i W s )
The nine timber cabins here are some of the
at Barrier
best-value accommodation on the island.
BarrierReef
While lacking self-catering facilities, the
cabins are airy, bright and sleep up to four.
A former backpacker lodge, the site enjoys
thickish tropical foliage and close proximity
ReefFFSrr
to the wilds of Happy Valley Beach. There’s a
restaurant and shop on-site.
las
Fraser Island Beachhouses RENTAL HOUSE $$
eas
eeperirng
(% 07-4127 9205, 1800 626 230; www.fraserisland-
beachhouses.com.au; Eurong Second Valley; per 2
IsIsl l&
nights studio $300, 2-bedroom house from $700;
and
s ) These are loads of fun for small groups
and
Eat&i ng
who want an element of privacy. The sunny,
self-contained units are kitted out with pol-
t h e F r as e r C oast
ished wood, cable TVs and ocean views.
Eurong Beach Resort RESORT $$
(% 07-4120 1600, 1800 111 808; www.eurong.com.
au; Eurong; r $135, 2-bedroom apt $185, mains $18-
40; h breakfast, lunch & dinner; a i s ) Located
on the east coast, Eurong is a friendly, middle-
of-the-road resort that provides decent value
in either motel rooms or apartments. Either
way, ask for the Coral Sea location. The pub-
style restaurant is pretty good and both the
lagoon-style pool and Beach Bar are prime
socialising areas. There’s a bottle shop and
petrol station on-site.
3 50
Kingfisher Bay Resort RESORT $$
(% 07-4194 9300, 1800 072 555; www.kingfish-
erbay.com; Kingfisher Bay; d $188, 2-bedroom villas
$228; a is ) S A slightly overstretched re-
sort that accommodates copious amounts of
day visitors in high season. Still, the rooms
are generously decked out, with private bal-
conies and modern kitchens. The timber
villas by the beach are a real treat. There’s
Frasers@Cathedral Beach CAMPGROUND $$
(% 07-4127 9177; www.cathedralsonfraser.com.au;
Cathedral Beach; unpowered sites $39, powered
sites $45, cabins with/without bathroom $220/180;
i ) This spacious, privately run park – with
its abundant, flat, grassy sites – is a fave with
families.
Sailfish on Fraser APARTMENT $$$

a three-night minimum stay in high season. (% 07-4127 9494; www.sailfishonfraser.com.au; d

The resort has restaurants, bars and shops from $230-250, extra person $10; s ) A little fad-
and operates daily tours of the island (adult/ ed but still a supremely comfortable collec-
child $155/105). tion of two-bedroom apartments, some with

SAND SAFARIS: EXPLORING FRASER ISLAND

The only way to explore Fraser Island is with a 4WD vehicle. For most travellers there are
Queensl and & the

three transport options: tag-along tours, organised tours or 4WD hire.

Please be aware of your environmental footprint. When choosing how to visit this pre-
cious landscape, bear in mind that the greater the number of individual vehicles driving
on the island, the greater the environmental damage.

Tag-Along Tours
Popular with backpackers, tag-along tours feature a group of travellers that pile into a
4WD convoy and follow a lead vehicle with an experienced guide and driver.
the Gre

Advantages – flexibility; you can make new friends fast.

Great

Disadvantages – if your group doesn’t get along it’s a loooong three days. Inexperi-
enced drivers get bogged in sand all the time, but this can be part of the fun.
at Barrier

Rates hover around $300 to $320 for three-day/two-night packages, and exclude
BarrierReef

food, fuel and alcohol.

Organised Tours
Package tours leave from Hervey Bay, Rainbow Beach and Noosa and cover rainforests,
ReefFFSrr

Eli Creek, Lakes McKenzie and Wabby, the Pinnacles and the Maheno shipwreck.
Advantages – minimum of fuss, plus you can return to Rainbow Beach or Noosa, or
vice versa. Expert commentary.
las
eas

Disadvantages – during peak season you could share the experience with 40 others.
eeperirng

There are also tour companies based in Hervey Bay.

IsIsl l&

¨¨Fraser Explorer Tours (% 1800 249 122, 07-4194 9222; www.fraserexplorertours.com.au;

and

1-/2-day tours $175/319) Popular budget option.

and
Eat&i ng

¨¨Dropbear Tours (% 1800 061 156, 0487 333 606; www.dropbearadventures.com.au; 3-day
tour $350) New operator out of Flashpackers (p333) with interesting three-day tour.
t h e F r as e r C oast

¨¨Fraser Experience (% 1800 689 819, 07-4124 4244; www.fraserexperience.com; 1-/2-day

tours $180/327) Small groups and more freedom about the itinerary.

4WD Hire
Hire companies lease out 4WD vehicles in Hervey Bay, Rainbow Beach and on the island.
Reckon on covering 20km an hour on the inland tracks and 40km an hour on the eastern
beach. Most companies will help arrange ferries and permits and camping gear.
Advantages – complete freedom to roam the island and escape the crowds.
Disadvantages – you may find you have to tackle beach and track conditions even
experienced drivers find challenging.
Rates for multiday rentals start at around $185 per day depending on the vehicle. On the
island, Aussie Trax 4WD (% 07-4124 4433, 1800 062 275; www.fraserisland4wd.com.au;
Kingfisher Bay Resort; per day from $227) hires out 4WDs.

wall-to-wall glass doors. Space is no concern
and all have spas and mod cons. There’s a
good pool and an area to wash your 4WD.
88 Information
General supplies and expensive fuel are avail-
able from stores at Cathedral Beach, Eurong,
Kingfisher Bay, Happy Valley and Orchid Beach.
The main ranger station, Eurong QPWS Infor-
mation Centre (% 07-4127 9128) is at Eurong.
Others can be found at Dundubara (% 07-4127
9138) and Waddy Point (% 07-4127 9190).
The Fraser Island Taxi Service (% 07-4127
9188) operates all over the island. A one-way
fare from Kingfisher Bay to Eurong is $80.
If your vehicle breaks down, call the tow-truck
service (% 07-4127 9449, 0428 353 164) based
in Eurong.
PERMITS
You will need permits for vehicles (per month/
year $42.15/211.30) and camping (per person/
family $5.85/21.80), and these must be pur-
chased before you arrive. It’s best to purchase
the permits online at www.derm.qld.gov.au or
contact QPWS (% 13 74 68). Permits aren’t
required for private camping grounds or resorts.
Permit-issuing offices:
Bundaberg QPWS Office (% 07-4131 1600; 46
Quay St)
Great Sandy Information Centre (% 07-5449
7792; 240 Moorinidil St; h 8am-4pm) Near
Noosa.
Marina Kiosk (% 07-4128 9800; Buccaneer
Ave, Urangan Boat Harbour, Urangan; h 6am-
6pm)
Maryborough QPWS (% 07-4121 1800; 20 Ten-
nyson St; h 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Rainbow Beach QPWS (% 07-5486 3160;
Rainbow Beach Rd)
River Heads Information kiosk (% 07-4125
8485; h 6.15-11.15am & 2-3.30pm) Ferry depar-
ture point at River Heads, south of Hervey Bay.
88 Getting There & Away
Vehicle ferries connect Fraser Island with River
Heads, about 10km south of Hervey Bay, or fur-
ther south at Inskip Point, near Rainbow Beach.
Fraser Island Barges (% 1800 227 437; www.
fraserislandferry.com.au) makes the crossing
(vehicle and four passengers $155 return, 30
minutes) from River Heads to Wanggoolba Creek
on the western coast of Fraser Island. It departs
daily from River Heads at 8.30am, 10.15am and
4pm, and returns from the island at 9am, 3pm
and 5pm.
Kingfisher Vehicular Ferry (% 1800 072
555; www.fraserislandferry.com) operates a
daily vehicle and passenger ferry (pedestrian
351
adult/child $50/25 return, vehicle and four
passengers $155 return, 50 minutes) from River
Heads to Kingfisher Bay, departing at 6.45am,
9am, 12.30pm, 3.30pm, 6.45pm and 9.30pm
and returning at 7.50am, 10.30am, 2pm, 5pm,
8.30pm and 11pm.
Coming from Rainbow Beach, the operators
Rainbow Venture & Fraser Explorer (% 07-
4194 9300; pedestrian/vehicle return $10/80)
and Manta Ray (% 07-5486 8888; vehicle
return $90) both make the 15-minute crossing
from Inskip Point to Hook Point on Fraser Island
continuously from about 7am to 5.30pm daily.
Air Fraser Island (% 07-4125 3600; www.
airfraserisland.com.au) charges from $125 for
a return flight (20 minutes each way) to the
island’s eastern beach, departing from Hervey
Bay airport.
Queensl and & the
Gympie
POP 18,602
Gympie’s gold once saved Queensland from
near-bankruptcy, but that was in the 1860s
and not much has happened since. A few pe-
riod buildings line the main street, but most
the Gre
travellers on the Bruce Hwy bypass the town
centre.
Great
Every August the Gympie Muster (www.
at Barrier
muster.com.au) is a place of pilgrimage for
Australian country music fans and a won-
BarrierReef
derful initiation for first-time listeners.
There’s also a week-long Gold Rush Festi-
val (www.goldrush.org.au) every October.
The Woodworks Forestry & Timber
ReefFGymp
Museum (cnr Fraser Rd & Bruce Hwy; admis-
sion $5; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat) on the high- In
r as
way south of town has some interesting
foerrimat
logging memorabilia, while the Valley
Rattler (%07-5482 2750; www.thevalleyrattler.
eIs liand
com; half-day tours per adult/child $34/10, day
tours $50/25; h half-day tours 9.30am, 11.30am
o n & t h e F r as e r C oast
& 1.45pm) is a restored 1923 steam train that
leaves Tozer St every Wednesday and Sun-
day at 10am.
The Royal Hotel (% 07-5482 1144; www.
theroyalgympie.com.au; 190 Mary St; d/t $120/130;
paW ) is a renovated pub with a popular
bar and restaurant and beautiful rooms.
The Decks (% 07-5483 8888; 250 Mary St; mains
$12-34; h breakfast & lunch daily, dinner Wed-Sat)
serves homestyle breakfast and lunch to all
walks of life.
Greyhound Australia (% 1300 473 946; www.
greyhound.com.au) and Premier Motor Serv-
ice (% 13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au) serve
Gympie from Noosa ($28, two hours) and
Hervey Bay ($31, 1¼ hours). Long-distance
3 52
coaches stop at the bus shelter in Jaycee Way,
behind Mary St. Polley’s Coaches (% 07-5480
4500; Pinewood Ave) has buses from Gympie to
Rainbow Beach ($18, 1¾ hours), departing
from the Sovereign Cinema on Monkland St
(at O’Connell St) at 1.15pm on weekdays.
Rainbow Beach
POP 1100
Gorgeous Rainbow Beach is a tiny town at
the base of the Inskip Peninsula with spec-
tacular multicoloured sand cliffs overlook-
ing its rolling surf and white sandy beach.
Still modestly touristed, the town has a re-
laxed vibe with plenty of options for the ac-
tive soul. Convenient access to Fraser Island
(only 15 minutes by barge) and the Cooloola
Queensl and & the
section of the Great Sandy National Park
has made it one of Queensland’s real coastal
beauty spots.
The town is named for the coloured
sand cliffs, a 2km walk along the beach. A
600m track along the cliffs at the southern
end of Cooloola Dr leads to the Carlo Sand-
the Gre
blow, a spectacular 120m-high dune.
Great
2 Activities
at Barrier
The Cooloola section of the Great Sandy
BarrierReef
National Park (p341) has a number of na-
tional park camp sites (www.derm.qld.gov.
au; per person/family $5.15/20.60), including a
wonderful stretch of beach camping along
ReefFRa
Teewah Beach. Book permits online. You’ll
also need a 4WD permit (www.derm.qld.gov.
au; per day/week/month $10/25/40).
Act
r as
Bushwalkers will find tracks throughout
i nb
the national park, including the 46.2km
ievriotIs
Cooloola Wilderness Trail, which starts
wi elsBand
at Mullens car park (off Rainbow Beach
Rd) and ends near Lake Cooloola. Maps are
e ac&
available from the QPWS (% 07-5486 3160;
h t h e F r as e r C oast
Rainbow Beach Rd).
Surf & Sand Safaris DRIVING TOUR
(% 07-5486 3131; www.surfandsandsafaris.com.au;
per adult/child $75/40) Excellent half-day tours
to Double Island Point via the national park
for those who want to explore further than
the main Rainbow Beach but don’t have the
vehicular means.
Rainbow Beach ¨
Dolphin View Sea Kayaking KAYAKING
(% 0408 738 192; Shop 1, 6 Rainbow Beach Rd; 3hr
tours per person $65) Leaves from the Rainbow
Beach Surf Centre.
Rainbow Beach Surf School SURFING
(% 0408 738 192; www.rainbowbeachsurfschool.
com; 3hr session $55) Same mob that runs the
kayaking hangs ten on a long, safe beach
break.
Rainbow Paragliding PARAGLIDING
(% 0418 754 157, 07-5486 3048; www.paragliding­
rainbow.com; glides $180) Tandem jump with
renowned paragliding outfit.
Skydive Rainbow Beach SKYDIVING
(% 0418 218 358; www.skydiverainbowbeach.com;
8000/14,000ft dives $299/369) As good a place
as any in the world to try it for the first time.
Wolf Rock Dive Centre DIVING
(% 0438 740 811, 07-5486 8004; www.wolfrockdive.
com.au; double dive charters from $210) Grey
nurse sharks and plenty of spooky ledges in
one of Australia’s premier dive spots.
4 Sleeping
Beds are found mostly on Spectrum St and
up the hill towards Carlo Sandblow. The
three main hostels arrange 4WD tours to
Fraser Island.
Rainbow Beach ¨
Hire-a-Camp CAMPING SUPPLIES
(% 07-5486 8633; www.rainbow-beach-hire-a-
camp.com.au; per day/night $30/50) If you don’t
have your own gear, these guys can sort it
out in style.
oDebbie’s Place
B&B $
(% 07-5486 3506; www.rainbowbeachaccommo-
dation.com.au; 30 Kurana St; d/ste from $99/109,
3-bedroom apt from $260; a ) Pet and peo-
ple friendly, Debbie’s is an institution in
Rainbow Beach for its terrific-value, self-
contained rooms in a timber Queenslander.
The namesake owner works hard to ensure
guests are at ease. The outdoor areas with
shared cooking facilities are a plus.
Pippies Beach House HOSTEL $
(% 1800 425 356; www.pippiesbeachhouse.com.
au; 22 Spectrum St; dm/d $24/65; a i W s )
Pippies is a family-run place that is great
for mingling between outdoor pursuits.
The free breakfast, wi-fi and boogie board
hire are welcome additions. The bathrooms
and kitchens, like most on this stretch, are
cramped and a bit scruffy.
Fraser’s on Rainbow YHA HOSTEL $
(% 1800 100 170; www.frasersonrainbow.com; 18
Spectrum St; dm/d from $25/65; i s ) Fairly
charmless inside the clean, tiled motel-style

rooms but the outdoor bar is popular most
nights and all hours. Meals are available.
Rainbow Beach ¨
Holiday Village CAMPGROUND $
(% 1300 366 596; www.beach-village.com; 13
Rainbow Beach Rd; unpowered/powered sites from
$27/34, cabins from $90; as ) This excellent
and popular park spreads over 2 hectares
overlooking the beach and ocean.
Plantation Resort APARTMENT $$$
(% 07-5486 9000; www.plantationresortatrainbow.
com.au; 1 Rainbow Beach Rd; 1-bedroom apt from
$199; a is ) These swish apartments have
perfect ocean views, and the outdoor cane
settings and white plantation-themed rooms
will have you reaching for the nearest gin
and tonic. It’s classy beach-chic and smack
bang in the middle of town.
Rainbow Sea Resort APARTMENT $$$
(% 07-5486 3555; www.rainbowsea.com.au; 3
Oceanview Pde; d from $270; paWs ) This
new split-level apartment complex, close to
the beach, makes full use of its elevated posi-
tion overlooking Rainbow Beach. The suites
are spacious and bright with massive balco-
nies though some of the furniture has the
feeling it may soon fade.
5 Eating
Self-caterers will find a supermarket on
Rainbow Beach Rd.
Creme de la Creme ICE CREAM $
(% 07-5486 8889; Shop 2, 1 Rainbow Beach Rd; $3
per scoop) Banana splits, slushies and spiders
to end the perfect beach day.
Waterview Bistro MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-5486 8344; Cooloola Dr; mains $26-35;
h lunch & dinner Wed-Sat, lunch Sun) Sunset
drinks are a must at this swish restaurant
with sensational views of Fraser Island from
its hilltop perch. Try the signature seafood
chowder ($22) or the lunch special ($19 in-
cluding glass of wine).
Rainbow Beach Hotel PUB $$
(1 Rainbow Beach Rd; mains $15-35; h lunch & dinner)
The spruced-up pub carries on the plantation
theme with ceiling fans, palm trees, timber
floors and cane furnishings. Go for the sea-
food paella ($28) or chilli spaghettini ($22).
Have a sunset drink on the upstairs balcony.
Cafe Jilarty CAFE $$
(12 Rainbow Beach Rd; mains $10-30; h breakfast,
lunch & dinner) New name but the same de-
353
licious coffee, cake and light meals as the
former proprietor.
Rainbow Beach SLSC SURF CLUB $$
(% 07-5486 3249; Wide Bay Esplanade; mains $15-
25; h lunch & dinner; pa ) Classic dirty carpet
ambience rules at this lifeblood of the local
community. The food is very good too, fea-
turing macadamia fish with mango sauce
($23), killer fish burgers ($15) and mixed
fajitas ($26). Service can be slowish at times.
88 Getting There & Around
Greyhound Australia (%1300 473 946; www.
grey­hound.com.au) and Premier Motor Service
(%13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au) have daily
services from Brisbane ($46, five hours), Noosa
($30, three hours) and Hervey Bay ($26, two
Queensl and & the
hours).
Most 4WD-hire companies will also arrange
permits, barge costs and hire out camping gear,
including All Trax 4WD Hire (% 07-5486 8767;
www.fraserisland4x4.com.au; Rainbow Beach
Rd, Shell service station; per day from $120) and
Rainbow Beach Adventure Centre 4WD Hire
(% 07-5486 3288; www.adventurecentre.com.
the Gre
au; Rainbow Beach Rd; per day from $150).
Great
Maryborough
at Barrier
BarrierReef
POP 1100
Born in 1847, Maryborough is one of Queens-
land’s oldest towns, and its port was the first
shaky step ashore for thousands of 19th-
century free settlers looking for a better life
ReefFM
in the new country. Heritage and history are
Maryborough’s fortes, the pace of yesteryear
Eat
r as
reflected in its beautifully restored colonial-
a rieyb
era buildings and gracious Queenslander
ng
r oIsrloand
homes. Today, it’s a modest old country town
with depleted economic fortunes.
Maryborough is also the birthplace of
u g h& t h e F r as e r C oast
PL Travers, creator of everyone’s favourite
umbrella-wielding nanny, Mary Poppins.
Thirteen heritage-listed buildings, park-
lands and museums in Portside (101 Wharf
St; h 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun) paint
a different story from Maryborough’s colour-
ful past – ruffians, brothels, opium dens and
all. Brennan & Geraghty’s Store (64 Lennox
St; adult/child/family $5.50/2.50/13.50; h 10am-
3pm) is a 19th-century general store convert-
ed into a museum.Free guided walks (9am
Monday to Saturday) depart from the city
hall every morning.
Every Thursday and on the last Sunday of
the month in Queen’s Park you can take a
ride (adult/child $3/2) on the Mary Ann, a
354
full-sized replica of Queensland’s first steam
locomotive, built in Maryborough in 1873.
Inside the 100-year-old city hall is the ex-
cellent Maryborough/Fraser Island visi-
tor centre (Kent St; h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm
Sat & Sun).
If you stay overnight, Eco Queenslander
(% 0438 195 443; www.ecoqueenslander.com; 15
Treasure St; house $140) is an entire home for
your convenience. Wallace Caravan Park
& Units Motel (% 07-4121 3970; www.wallace-
caravanpark.com; 22 Ferry St; unpowered/powered
sites $20/25, cabins $75-85; as ) is a leafy and
convenient option. McNevin’s Parkway
Motel (% 1800 072 000; www.mcnevins.com.au;
188 John St; r from $125; aiWs ) has well-lit,
comfortable motel rooms and a very helpful
reception.
Queensl and & the
Port Residence (% 07-4123 5001; Wharf St,
Customs House; mains $15-30; h breakfast, lunch
& dinner Thu-Sun) is an elegant restaurant
overlooking the Mary River, and Milosc
(% 07-4122 1741; Level 3, 333 Kent St; coffee $3,
cake $3; h breakfast & lunch Mon-Sat) is the best
cafe in town by far. Lounge 1868 (116 Wharf
the Gre
St; h Fri & Sat nights) at the Customs House
Hotel is the starting point for a night out,
Great
while the Post Office Hotel (% 07-4121 3289;
at Barrier
cnr Bazaar & Wharf Sts), in a lovely building de-
signed by an Italian architect in 1889, is a
BarrierReef
fine post-work watering hole.
Maryborough West train station is 7km
west of town on Lennox St. Here you’ll find
ReefFH
trains to Brisbane ($60, five hours, at least
four weekly) and the main bus station next
Srieas
door.
grhvets
If you just need to get to Hervey Bay ($8,
eryIsBlay
one hour), catch one of the frequently de-
parting Wide Bay Transit buses from outside
city hall.
and & t h e F r as e r C oast
Hervey Bay
POP 76,403
As the main gateway to Fraser Island,
Hervey Bay has matured from a welfare-by-
the-sea escape into a low-key tourist desti-
nation thanks to its lovely sandy bay (and
soothing sea breezes), steady resort develop-
ment and huge pods of humpback whales.
The often sleepy, startlingly long Espla-
nade has an air of youthful anticipation as
the bars fill up come nightfall.
From July to October humble fishing
boats transform into high-tech whale-
watching vessels in time for the mass hump-
back migration. This is reputedly the best
viewing region in the world.
The gentle shallow bay itself is very safe
for swimming and snorkelling (especially
off the end of Zephyr St in Scarness), which
means many mums, dads and kids also pay
Hervey Bay a seasonal visit.
1 Sights
Reef World AQUARIUM
(% 07-4128 9828; Pulgul St, Urangan; adult/child
$18/9, shark dives $50; h 9.30am-4pm) Fairly
uninspired presentation but knowledgeable
and passionate staff ensure a sound family
experience. You can feed turtles or take a dip
with lemon, whaler and other nonpredatory
sharks.
Botanic Gardens GARDENS
(Elizabeth St, Urangan; h 6.30am-8.30pm) The
gardens have dense foliage, walking tracks,
a few lagoons and more than 80 species of
bird.
Fraser Coast Discovery Sphere MUSEUM
(% 07-4197 4207; www.frasercoastdiscoverysphere.
com.au; 166 Old Maryborough Rd, Pialba; adult/
child/family $7.50/5.50/20.50; h 10am-4pm)
Loads of educational activities inspired by
the region. Ideal for kids and curious adults.
2 Activities
Fraser Island
Hervey Bay is great for arranging a 4WD ad-
venture on Fraser Island. Some hostels put
groups together in tag-along tours. A maxi-
mum of five vehicles follow a lead vehicle
with an experienced guide and driver. Rates
hover around $300 to $320 for a three-day/
two-night camping trip, and exclude food,
fuel and alcohol. Places that offer trips in-
clude Colonial Village YHA (% 1800 818
280; www.cvyha.com), Fraser Roving (% 1800
989 811, 07-4125 6386; www.fraserroving.com.
au), Nomads (% 1800 354 535, 07-4125 3601;
www.nomadshostels.com), Next Backpackers
(% 07-4125 6600; www.nextbackpackers.com.au)
and Palace Adventures (% 1800 063 168;
www.palaceadventures.com.au).
If you prefer to go on your own (not rec-
ommended for inexperienced off-road driv-
ers), consider hiring a car.
Water Sports
Aquavue WATER SPORTS
(% 07-4125 5528; www.aquavue.com.au; The Espla-
nade) Hires out SeaKarts (a cross between a
windsurfer and a catamaran; $50 per hour),

kayaks ($20 per hour) and jet skis ($50 per
15 minutes). Guided Fraser Island jet-ski
tours for $320. Be the first of your friends to
try futuristic ‘FlyBoarding’.
Enzo’s on the Beach WATER SPORTS
(% 07-4124 6375) Kitesurfing ($130 per two-
hour lesson) and paddleboarding ($30/40
per hour/two hours). Also hires out kayaks
and surf skis.
Cruises
Krystal Klear CRUISE
(% 07-4128 9800; 5hr tours adult/child $90/50)
355
Other Activities
Skydive Hervey Bay SKYDIVING
(% 0458 064 703; www.skydiveherveybay.com.au)
Tandem skydives for $325 from 12,000ft.
Susan River Homestead HORSE RIDING
(% 07-4121 6846; www.susanriver.com; Hervey
Bay–Maryborough Rd) Located halfway be-
tween Maryborough and Hervey Bay. Two-
hour rides cost $85.
z Festivals & Events
Hervey Bay Whale Festival WHALES

Leaving from the Urangan marina, this day (www.herveybaywhalefestival.com.au) In early

trip on a 40ft glass-bottomed boat includes August, the Hervey Bay Whale Festival cele­
snorkelling, coral viewing and an island brates the return of the whales.
tropical barbecue.
4 Sleeping

Queensl and & the

Fishing
The fishing in and around Hervey Bay is excel-
lent and many vessels operate fishing safaris.
MV Fighting Whiting (% 07-4124 6599; www.
fightingwhiting.com.au; adult/child/family $70/35/
170) offers expeditions that include lunch.
oFlashpackers HOSTEL $
(% 07-4124 1366; www.flashpackersherveybay.com;
195 Torquay Tce, Torquay; dm $25-30, d $70; aWs )
Here’s a hostel worth exporting, with a com-
fortable, spacious dorm and rooms with
bathrooms. Reading lights, numerous power

the Gre
GIANTS OF THE SEA: WHALE WATCHING IN HERVEY BAY

Great
Every year, from August to early November, thousands of humpback whales (Megaptera

at Barrier
novaeangliae) cruise into Hervey Bay’s sheltered waters for a few days before continu-

BarrierReef
ing their arduous migration south to the Antarctic. Having mated and given birth in the
warmer waters off northeastern Australia, they arrive in Hervey Bay in groups of about a
dozen (known as pulses), before splitting into smaller groups of two or three (pods). The
new calves use the time to develop the thick layers of blubber necessary for survival in

ReefFH
icy southern waters, by consuming around 600L of milk daily.
Viewing these majestic creatures is simply awe-inspiring. Showy aqua-acrobats,
humpbacks wave their pectoral fins, slap their tails, breach and simply ‘blow’. Many will
Freeas

roll up beside the whale-watching boats with one eye clear of the water, making those
st
r veierva

on board wonder who’s actually watching whom.

yIslBlsay

Cruises go from the Urangan Marina out to Platypus Bay and then zip around from
pod to pod to find the most active whales. In a very competitive market, vessels offer half-
and
& Ev&e t

day (four-hour) tours that include breakfast or lunch and cost around $115 for adults and
$60 for children. The larger boats run six-hour day trips and the amenities are better, but
they take around two hours to reach Platypus Bay. Some recommended operators:
nts
h e F r as e r C oast

¨¨Spirit of Hervey Bay (% 1800 642 544; www.spiritofherveybay.com; h 8.30am &

1.30pm) The largest vessel with the greatest number of passengers. Has an underwater
hydrophone and underwater viewing window.
¨¨That’s Awesome (% 1800 653 775; www.awesomeadventure.com.au; h 7am, 10.30am &
2.30pm) This rigid inflatable boat speeds out to the whales faster than any other vessel.
The low deck level means you’re nearly eyeball-to-eyeball with the big mammals.
¨¨Freedom Whale Watch (% 1300 879 960; www.freedomwhalewatch.com.au; adult/child
$125/80, h 8.30am) Award-winning operator runs six-hour trips.
¨¨MV Tasman Venture (% 1800 620 322; www.tasmanventure.com.au; h 8.30am &
1.30pm) Maximum of 80 passengers; underwater microphones and viewing windows.
¨¨Blue Dolphin Marine Tours (% 07-4124 9600; www.bluedolphintours.com.au; adult/
child $120/90; h 7.30am) Maximum 20 passengers on a 10m catamaran.
3 56

Hervey Bay

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Hervey Bay
at Barrier

æ Sights
BarrierReef

17Grange Resort...........................................F1
1 Botanic Gardens ......................................F2 18 Happy Wanderer Village.........................D2
2 Reef World ............................................... H2 19 Mango Eco Hostel ................................... A1
20 Peppers Pier Resort................................ G1
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 21 Quarterdecks Harbour Retreat .............G3
ReefFH

3 Aquavue ....................................................C1 22 Scarness Beachfront Tourist

Blue Dolphin Marine Tours.............(see 9) Park ........................................................ A1
4 Enzo's on the Beach................................A1 23 Torquay Beachfront Tourist
Srleas

5 Krystal Klear ............................................ H3 Park ........................................................ C1

ereveperiyng

MV Tasman Venture........................(see 9)
6 Next Backpackers....................................C1 ú Eating
IsBlay

7 Nomads.....................................................C1 Aquavue............................................ (see 3)

and & t h e F r as e r C oast

8 Palace Adventures.................................. B2 24 Black Dog Café ........................................ B1

9 Spirit of Hervey Bay................................ H2
That's Awesome ..............................(see 9)
ÿ Sleeping
10 Akama ...................................................... H3
11 Alexander Lakeside B&B ........................E2
12 Australis Shelly Bay Resort....................D1
13 Bay B&B .................................................... F1
14 Boat Harbour Resort.............................. G3
15 Colonial Village YHA ............................... G3
16 Flashpackers ........................................... B2
25 Boat Club..................................................H3
26 Café Balaena............................................H2
27 Café Tapas ............................................... C1
Enzo's on the Beach........................ (see 4)
28 Hoolihan's................................................. A1
29 Pavilion by the Pier.................................. G1
30 Pier Restaurant.........................................E1
û Drinking & Nightlife
31 Viper.......................................................... C1

sockets, walk-in communal fridge, spotless (al- Beachfront Tourist Parks CAMPGROUND $
beit brand new) communal areas and showers (www.beachfronttouristparks.com.au; unpowered/
with power. Set a street back from the beach powered sites $25/36) Pialba (% 07-4128 1399;
and now the new standard for backpacker ac- The Esplanade, Pialba); Scarness (% 07-4125 1578;
commodation in Hervey Bay. The Esplanade, Scarness); Torquay (% 07-4125
 3 57
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Great
1578; The Esplanade, Torquay) Fronting Hervey Happy Wanderer Village CAMPGROUND $

at Barrier
Bay’s exquisitely long sandy beach, all three (% 07-4125 1103; www.happywanderer.com.au; 105
of these shady parks have the best ocean Truro St; unpowered/powered sites from $30/35,

views; the Torquay site is in the heart of the
action.
Colonial Village YHA HOSTEL $
BarrierReef
cabins/villas from $64/121; a W s ) The mani-
cured lawns and profuse gum-tree cover at
this large park make for great tent sites.

ReefFH
(% 1800 818 280; www.cvyha.com; 820 Boat Har- Akama APARTMENT $$
bour Dr;  dm/d/cabins from $32/56/70; ais ) (% 07-4197 0777, 1800 770 661; www.akamare- Srleas
A very well-managed and executed hostel sort.com.au; 625 Charlton; 1-/2-bedroom apt from
ereveperiyng

set on 8 hectares of tranquil bushland, close $175/220; pas ) A tall, modern complex
to the marina and only 50m from the beach. overlooking a fairly busy road near the
IsBlay

There’s a positive, understated communal marina, Akama excels on the inside. The
vibe, with good birdlife, music-filled com- apartments are enormous, with white inte-
and & t h e F r as e r C oast

mon areas and extra facilities like basketball
and tennis courts.
Mango Eco Hostel HOSTEL $
(% 07-4124 2832; www.mangohostel.net; 110
Torquay Rd, Mango Hostel; dm/d $28/60; paW )
Not for the package tourist, this small,
colourful hostel is a kind of old-school
travellers’ haunt, both intimate and un­
usual. Run by a passionate local who read-
ily shares his dismay about the exploitation
of Fraser Island, Mango sleeps guests in a
four-bed dorm room and two very homely
doubles. The wraparound verandah and
outdoor dining area add an atmosphere of
tropicalismo.
riors, slick bathrooms and open-plan living
straight from a design catalogue. There are
distant views of Fraser Island from the spa-
cious balconies and an excellent pool and
barbecue area. Staff are exceptional.
Bay B&B B&B $$
(% 07-4125 6919; www.baybedandbreakfast.com.
au; 180 Cypress St; s $100, d $125-140; a i s )
An honest B&B with enough charm to com-
pete with the spread of resorts in the area.
It’s run by a friendly, well-travelled French-
man, his wife (and their dog). Guest rooms
are in a comfy annexe out the back, while
the famed breakfasts are served in a tropical
garden. Excellent value.
358
Quarterdecks ¨
Harbour Retreat APARTMENT $$
(% 07-4197 0888; www.quarterdecksretreat.
com.au; 80 Moolyyir St; 1-/2-/3-bedroom villas
$185/225/290; aWs ) It may be part of the
Best Western chain but Quarterdecks is a
few grades above the brand name. Tucked
down the quiet end of Urangan by a nature
reserve and opposite a quiet patch of beach,
each villa has a private courtyard and a fair
degree of luxury by Hervey Bay standards.
Alexander Lakeside B&B B&B $$
(% 07-4128 9448; www.herveybaybedandbreak-
fast.com.au; 29 Lido Pde; r $140-150, ste $160-170;
a W ) A well-conceived getaway in a quiet
position near the lake where turtles often
greet breakfasting guests. There’s a heated
Queensl and & the
lakeside spa, two spacious rooms and two
luxury self-contained suites.
Australis Shelly Bay Resort APARTMENT $$
(% 07-4125 4533; www.shellybayresort.com.au;
466 The Esplanade; 1-/2-bedroom units $180/195;
a i s ) Prime location on The Esplanade
with excellent views from all self-contained
the Gre
units. Friendly, unobstrusive staff and very
Great
good discounts on multiple night stays.
Boat Harbour Resort
at Barrier
APARTMENT $$
(% 07-4125 5079; www.boatharbourresort.net; 651-
BarrierReef
652 Charlton St; studio from $120, bungalow from
$150; a W s ) Close to the Hervey Bay ma-
rina, these timber studios and bungalows
are set on attractive grounds. The studios
ReefFH
have sizeable decks out the front, and the
roomy two-bedroom bungalows are great
Eat
r eas
for families.
riveng
Peppers Pier Resort RESORT $$$
eryIs
(% 1300 737 444, 4194 9700; www.peppers.com.
&Blay
au/pier-resort; The Esplanade, Urangan; 1-/2-bed-
Dand
room ste from $184/259; pas ) This new re-
r i nk&i ng
sort in a burgeoning strip down the end of
the Esplanade is the centrepiece of Hervey
t h e F r as e r C oast
Bay’s high-end hotels. The serviced apart-
ments are quite opulent, with the stream-
lined Peppers decor and smart use of space.
The pool is the best in town but the street-
facing restaurant is best only for sunset
drinks.
Grange Resort RESORT $$$
(% 07-4125 2002; www.thegrange-herveybay.com.
au; cnr Elizabeth & Shell Sts; 1-/2-bedroom villas
$195/225; aWs ) Reminiscent of a stylish
desert resort with fancy split-level condos
and filled with life’s little luxuries, this place
is close to the beach and to town.
5 Eating & Drinking
Self-caterers can stock up at the supermar-
kets inside the Centro, Urangan Central and
Bay Central Plaza shopping centres.
Enzo’s on the Beach CAFE $
(351A The Esplanade; mains $8-20; h 6.30am-
5pm) One of two aqua-adventure outdoor
cafes on the beach side of the street, Enzo’s
does the smoothie/sandwich/salad thing
best. Sweat out your stiff coffee on a rental
kayak or paddleboard or learn kitesurfing.
Aquavue CAFE $
(415 The Esplanade; mains $8-15; h breakfast &
lunch) Of the two aqua-sports relaxed eater-
ies, this has arguably the better-value break-
fast. There are plenty of water toys for hire.
Black Dog Café FUSION $$
(% 07-4124 3177; 381 The Esplanade; mains $14-33;
h lunch & dinner) Fresh and creative seafood
dishes like fish crepes, lobster salad and
Japanese ebi okinoyami (prawn pancake).
Non-seafood sandwiches and schnitzels
are well-priced. Relaxed service and sunny
tunes opposite the beach.
Boat Club PUB $$
(% 07-4128 9643; Buccaneer Dve, Urangan; mains
$17-29, lunch & dinner) An evening at The
Hervey Bay Boat Club reminds the visitor
that the cafe culture on The Esplanade will
never overshadow the locals’ love of multi-
purpose entertainment venues by a body
of water with subsidised drink prices and
chances for a big screen and a flutter. Take a
number for huge pub-style meals that come
with chips almost always.
Café Tapas TAPAS $$
(417 The Esplanade; tapas $7; h lunch & dinner)
Asian-inspired tapas and very good cocktail
service. This slick venue has funky artwork,
dim lighting, red couches, and low tables
flickering with coloured lights.
Café Balaena CAFE $$
(% 07-4125 4799; Shop 7, Terminal Bldg, Bucca-
neer Ave; mains $10-25; h breakfast & lunch daily,
dinner Thu-Mon) Definitely the pick of the
waterfront cafes at the marina. The menu
ranges across the board with a good dose of
fairly priced seafood and outstanding fruit
juices.
Pier Restaurant SEAFOOD $$
(% 07-4128 9699; 573 The Esplanade; mains $20-
40; h dinner Mon-Sat) Although it sits op-

posite the water, à la carte Pier makes lit-
tle use of its ocean views. However, it does
have an interesting seafood menu (crocodile
and Hervey Bay scallops), and is deservedly
popular.
Hoolihan’s PUB $$
(382 The Esplanade; mains $16-27) Like all good
Irish pubs, Hoolihan’s is wildly popular, espe-
cially with the backpacker crowd. Maybe it’s
got something to do with its hard-drinking
ethos and carbo-laden meals.
Pavilion by the Pier MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$$
(% 07-4125 2288; 1 Pier St; mains $19-39; h break-
fast & lunch Tue, breakfast, lunch & dinner Wed-
Sun) The Pavilion offers stylishly presented
cuisine and an agreeable outlook from the
parklands by the old Urangan pier. The
classiest place for an evening meal.
Viper CLUB
(410 The Esplanade, Torquay; h 10pm-3am Wed, Fri
& Sat) This new club is a rough diamond with
cranking music and an energetic crowd, es-
pecially during summer.
88 Information
Hervey Bay Visitor Centre (% 1800 649 926;
401 The Esplanade; internet per hr $4) Friendly,
privately run booking office with internet
access.
Hervey Bay Visitor Information Centre
(% 1800 811 728; www.herveybaytourism.com.
au; cnr Urraween & Maryborough Rds) Helpful
tourist office on outskirts of town.
Mad Travel (% 07-4125 3601; 408 The Espla-
nade; internet per hr $4) Located at Nomads.
Offers internet access and is a booking agent
for tours and activities.
88 Getting There & Away
BOAT
Boats to Fraser Island leave from River Heads,
about 10km south of town, and Urangan Marina.
Most tours leave from Urangan Harbour.
BUS
Long-distance buses depart from Hervey Bay
Coach Terminal (% 07-4124 4000; Central
Ave, Pialba). Regular services head to/from
Brisbane ($70, 5½ hours), Maroochydore
($45, 3½ hours), Bundaberg ($25, 1½ hours)
and Rockhampton ($92, six hours). Wide Bay
Transit (% 07-4121 3719) has hourly services
from Urangan Marina to Maryborough ($8, one
hour) every weekday, with fewer services on
weekends.
3 59
88 Getting Around
Seega Rent a Car (% 07-4125 6008; 463 The
Esplanade) has small cars from $45 to $60 a day.
Plenty of rental companies make Hervey Bay
the best place to hire a 4WD for Fraser Island:
Aussie Trax (% 1800 062 275; 56 Boat Har-
bour Dr, Pialba)
Fraser Island 4WD Hire (% 07-4125 6612;
www.fraser4wdhire.com.au; 5 Kruger Ct,
Urangan)
Hervey Bay Rent A Car (% 07-4194 6626) Also
rents out scooters ($30 per day).
Safari 4WD Hire (% 1800 689 819; www.safa-
ri4wdhire.com.au; 102 Boat Harbour Dr, Pialba)
Childers
Queensl and & the
POP 1630
One of the sweeter stops on the heavily plied
Bruce Hwy is pretty little Childers. This
sugar-cane town, scattered with liquorice-
coloured houses and fruit-picking youth, is
used by most travellers to stretch their legs
or take a cafe break in the country.
A little out of town, Sugarbowl Caravan
the Gre
Park(% 07-41261521;4660BruceHwy;unpowered/
Great
powered sites $20/22, cabins $66; i s ) has
spectacular views over the surrounding
at Barrier
countryside. There’s plenty of space and
a good scattering of foliage between sites.
BarrierReef
Many farm-working backpackers stay here,
but a better option is the very clean and
friendly Childers Tourist Park & Camp
(% 07-4126 1371; 111 Stockyard Rd; rates for 2 peo-
ReefFC
ple unpowered/powered sites $24/25, on-site vans
$66) – you’ll need a car.
In
rh
For warm, country hospitality the cute
as
fo
i led
cane-cutter cottages at Mango Hill B&B
rrmat
(% 07-4126 1311; www.mangohillcottages.com; 8
e Is
r sliand
Mango Hill Dr; s/d $90/120; s ), 4km south of
town, are decorated with handmade wood-
o n & t h e F r as e r C oast
en furniture, country decor and comfy beds
that ooze charm and romance. There’s an
on-site organic winery.
Kape Centro (65 Churchill St; mains $10-
18; h breakfast & lunch) is a charming cafe in
the old post office building. Reached via a
turnoff south of town, Mammino’s (115 Luck-
etts Rd; h 9am-5pm) makes real macadamia-
nut ice cream.
Childers is 50km southwest of Bunda­
berg. Greyhound Australia (% 1300 473 946)
and Premier Motor Service (% 13 34 10)
both stop at the Shell service station north
of town and have daily services to/from Bris-
bane ($84, 6½ hours), Hervey Bay ($17, one
hour) and Bundaberg ($24, 1½ hours).
360
Bundaberg
POP 60,000
Boasting a sublime climate, coral-fringed
beaches and waving fields of sugar cane,
‘Bundy’ is still overlooked by most travellers.
Born out of these cane fields is the famous
Bundaberg Rum, a potent, mind-blowing
liquor and unsung national icon.
Hordes of backpackers flock to Bundy for
fruit-picking and farm work. Keen divers,
surfers and holidaying families quickly pass
through on their way to nearby seaside vil-
lages like Bargara, 16km to the east, and
a dazzling bank of coral near the Barolin
Rocks in the Woongarra Marine Park
Massive floods in early 2013 decimated
Bundaberg’s peaceful, palm-lined streets
Queensl and & the
and many residents are still dealing with the
aftermath.
1 Sights
Bundaberg Rum Distillery DISTILLERY
(% 07-4131 2999; www.bundabergrum.com.au;
the Gre
Avenue St; self-guided tours adult/child $15/7.50,
guided tours $25/12.50; h 9am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to
Great
2.30pm Sat & Sun) Wake up and smell the mo-
lasses! Tours here follow the rum’s produc-
at Barrier
tion from start to finish and, if you’re over
BarrierReef
18, you get to sample the final product. The
one-hour, wheelchair-accessible tours run
every hour on the hour. Note, you must wear
closed-toe shoes.
ReefFB
Botanic Gardens GARDENS
(Mt Perry Rd; h 6am-6.30pm) The Botanic Gar-
Sriuas
dens, 2km north of the centre, is a green
gndab
oasis of tropical shrubs, towering trees and
hets
flowering gardens surrounding a few small
r Iselrand
lakes. Bring a picnic lunch!
g
Hinkler Hall of Aviation MUSEUM
(www.hinklerhallofaviation.com; Mt Perry Rd, Botan-
& t h e F r as e r C oast
ic Gardens; adult/child/family $15/10/40; h 9am-
4pm) Located within the Botanical Gardens,
the museum has multimedia exhibits, a
flight simulator, and informative displays
about Bert Hinkler, the first pilot to fly solo
between England and Australia, in 1928.
4 Sleeping
Bundaberg’s hostels cater to working back-
packers; most hostels arrange harvest work.
Standards vary considerably.
Bundaberg Spanish Motor Inn MOTEL $
(% 07-4152 5444; www.bundabergspanishmo-
torinn.com; 134 Woongarra St; s/d $95/105;
aWs ) The best-kept premises in its cat-
egory is located on a quiet side street off the
main drag. The hacienda style is a little am-
bitious but the self-contained units facing
the pool are extremely comfortable.
Bigfoot Backpackers HOSTEL $
(% 07-4152 3659; www.footprintsadventures.com.
au; 66 Targo St; pa ) Comfortable and friend-
ly hostel in town that also runs fabulous
turtle tours to Mon Repos. A few dabs of
fresh paint and a more chilled vibe raise this
above the many competitors. There are am-
ple fruit-picking opportunities available.
Cellblock Backpackers HOSTEL $
(% 1800 837 773; cnr Quay & Maryborough Sts;
dm per night/week from $28/165, d $70; a i s )
This barely legal establishment is a heritage-
listed former lock-up and hostel for the
hardened traveller. The seven restored jail
cells lack windows (of course) but are com-
fortable enough in a crisis. The real action,
however, takes place poolside at the happen-
ing bar where the owner fraternises with
guests until the wee hours. Know what to
expect and you’ll probably love it.
oInglebrae B&B $$
(% 07-4154 4003; www.inglebrae.com; 17 Branyan
St; r incl breakfast $120-150; a ) Inglebrae rep-
resents tremendous value. The glorious re-
stored Queenslander is instilled with more
than a touch of yesteryear: stained glass,
antique bric-a-brac, raised four-poster beds.
Toiletries, linen and breakfast on the veran-
dah are also first class.
Burnett Riverside Motel MOTEL $$
(% 07-4155 8777; www.burnettmotel.com.au; 7
Quay St; d $150-200; aW s ) The most expen-
sive accommodation in Bundaberg has a
central position overlooking the river and a
variety of inhouse facilities like sauna, gym
and the popular H2O restaurant. Rooms,
however, are a bit dank for the price and the
furniture needs an overhaul.
5 Eating & Drinking
Rosie Blu DELI $
(% 07-4151 0957; 90A Bourbong St; mains $9-19)
This narrow deli cafe in the heart of town
offers delicious respite from the hot Bundy
streets. Floral wallpaper and vintage furni-
ture fill quickly with locals who nibble and
whisper over homemade lasagna, sandwich-
es, pies and salads.

Spicy Tonight FUSION $
(% 07-4154 3320; 1 Targo St; dishes $12-20; h lunch
& dinner Mon-Sat; v ) A cornerside institution
for fans of pan-Asian food, with hot curries,
stir fries, tandoori and a host of vegetarian
dishes. The high ceilings and well-spaced ta-
bles offer comfort in summer.
Indulge CAFE $
(80 Bourbong St; dishes $9-16; h breakfast &
lunch) Intoxicating pastries, fancy brekkies,
decent coffee and consistently good food
draw in the crowds.
Teaspoon CAFE $
(10 Targo St; mains $5-10; h 8am-5pm Mon-Sat)
This funky little cafe has the best coffee in
town.
Les Chefs INTERNATIONAL $$
(% 07-4153 1770; 238 Bourbong St; mains $27;
h lunch Tue-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat) The most pop-
ular restaurant in town serves enormous
plates of international fare. The large menu
includes chicken enchiladas ($22), grilled
fish ($24), veal schnitzel ($25) and yummy
desserts. It’s BYO and can get very busy so
book ahead.
Spinnaker ¨
Restaurant & Bar MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-4152 8033; 1A Quay St; dishes $10-40;
h lunch Tue-Fri, dinner Tue-Sat) This riverside
bar restaurant has made a post-flood resur-
gence with tasty pizzas, decent tapas and
strong cocktails.
Restaurant MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-4154 4589; cnr Quay & Toonburra Sts; mains
$25-35; h dinner Tue-Sat) Once a rowing shed,
this riverside bar and restaurant serves up
simple Mod Oz cuisine. The interior can be a
bit dim, but the outdoor tables on the timber
deck make a lovely spot for a quiet drink.
Live music plays on weekends.
Restaurant 55 ITALIAN $$
(% 07-4151 3038; 55-57 Walker St; mains $19-35;
h lunch & dinner Tues-Sat) Fine dining has ar-
rived in Bundy, with 55 serving modern Ital-
ian cuisine to rival the big cities. Pasta made
on the premises combines beautifully with
fresh local seafood. Grilled fish and veal dish-
es are flavoursome and well-proportioned.
Finish with the creme brulee ($13).
Club Hotel PUB
(cnr Tantitha & Bourbong Sts) The lounge bar
has laid-back lounges and chill-out music.
361
GRAND DAMES OF THE DEEP
In the dead of night on the quiet beach of
Mon Repos, 15km northeast of Bunda-
berg, female loggerhead turtles lumber
laboriously up the sand, scoop a shallow
hole with their flippers, lay 100 or so eggs,
and then cover them up before returning
to the ocean deep. About eight weeks later
the hatchlings dig their way to the surface,
and under cover of darkness emerge en
masse to scurry to the water as quickly as
their flippers allow. Egg laying and hatch-
ing takes place from November to March.
The Mon Repos Visitor Centre
(%07-4153 8888; 271 Bourbong St) has infor-
mation on turtle conservation and organ-
Queensl and & the
ises nightly tours (adult/child $10/5.25)
from 7pm during the season. Bookings
are mandatory and can be made through
the Bundaberg visitor centre or at www.
bookbundabergregion.com.au.
the Gre
Central Hotel CLUB
(18 Targo St) Strut your stuff on the dance
Great
floor at Bundy’s hottest nightclub.
at Barrier
88 Information
BarrierReef
Bundaberg Email Centre (197 Bourbong St;
per hr $4; h 10am-10pm) Internet access.
Bundaberg Visitor Centre (% 07-4153 8888,
1300 722 099; www.bundabergregion.info; 271
ReefFB
Bourbong St; h 9am-5pm)
QPWS (% 07-4131 1600; Targo St) In
ruas
88 Getting There & Away
fo
ndab
errmat
The coach terminal is in Targo St. Both Grey-
Iselriand
hound Australia (% 1300 473 946; www.
greyhound.com.au) and Premier Motor Service
g
o n & t h e F r as e r C oast
(% 13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au) have daily
services connecting Bundaberg with Brisbane
($95, seven hours), Hervey Bay ($24, 1½ hours)
and Rockhampton ($75, four hours).
Duffy’s Coaches (% 07-4151 4226) covers
Bargara ($5, 35 minutes), leaving from the back
of Target on Woongarra St.
Queensland Rail (% 13 12 30; www.queens-
landrail.com.au) Sunlander ($68, seven hours,
three weekly) and Tilt Train ($68, five hours,
Sunday to Friday) services travel from Brisbane
to Bundaberg on their respective routes to
Cairns and Rockhampton.
Bundaberg’s Hinkler Airport (Takalvan St) is
about 4km southwest of the centre. There are three
or four Bundaberg–Brisbane flights daily with Qan-
tasLink (%13 13 13; www.qantas.com.au).
362
CAPRICORN COAST
The stunning powdery white beaches and
aqua-blue waters of the tropical islands
and coral cays of the Capricorn Coast fit the
picture-postcard image perfectly. The peace-
ful islands of the southern Great Barrier
Reef – Heron and Lady Elliot in particular –
offer some of the best snorkelling and div-
ing in Queensland, while remote beaches
and windswept national parks can be found
along the entire Capricorn coastline from
lovely Byfield to charming 1770.
Rising above the inland plains, the weath-
ered plateaus of the Great Dividing Range
form spectacular sandstone escarpments,
especially around the Carnarvon and Black-
down Tableland National Parks, where an-
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef S
cient Aboriginal rock art, deep gorges and
waterfalls abound.
Southern Reef Islands
Some of the Capricorn Coast’s finest mo-
ments lie 80km to the northeast of Bunda-
berg, on these lush green-and-gold islands
atop a glassy azure sea. More and more
savvy travellers are doing their Great Bar-
rier Reef thing here – and for good reason.
There’s the diving wilderness of Lady El-
liot and Lady Musgrave, while at secluded
Heron Island you can literally wade into an
underwater paradise.
The Town of 1770 is the most common
stepping-off point; otherwise, use Hervey
Bay or Bundaberg. Tours to the islands (from
Co
G
$175) stop at a number of beaches and snor-
ap
e tt
urtihng
kelling spots and include lunch. Alternatively,
you can camp at Lady Musgrave, or stay over-
ceorrT
night at the no-frills resort on Lady Elliot.
nnhReCeroast
Lady Elliot Island
eef &IsAway
On the southern frontier of the Great Barrier
Reef, Lady Elliot is a 40-hectare vegetated
l ands
coral cay popular with divers, snorkellers
and nesting sea turtles. The island is a breed-
ing and nesting ground for many species of
tropical seabirds, but its stunning underwa-
ter landscape is the main attraction. Divers
can walk straight off the beach to explore
an ocean bed of shipwrecks, coral gardens,
bommies (coral pinnacles or outcroppings)
and blowholes, and abundant marine life
including barracuda, giant manta rays and
harmless leopard sharks.
Lady Elliot Island is not a national park,
and camping is not allowed.
Lady Elliot Island Resort (% 1800 072
200; www.ladyelliot.com.au; per person $147-350)
may have a monopoly on the island’s accom-
modation, but it’s still great value for a bed
on the edge of heaven. Accommodation is
in tent cabins, simple motel-style units, or
more expensive two-bedroom self-contained
suites with the sand at stretching distance.
Rates include breakfast and dinner, snorkel-
ling gear and some tours.
Lady Musgrave Island
Wannabe castaways look no further. This
tiny 15-hectare cay, 100km northeast of Bun-
daberg, sits on the western rim of a stun-
ning, turquoise-blue reef lagoon renowned
for its safe swimming, snorkelling and div-
ing. A squeaky, white-sand beach fringes a
dense canopy of pisonia forest brimming
with roosting bird life, including terns,
shearwaters and white-capped noddies.
Birds nest from October to April, green tur-
tles from November to February.
The uninhabited island is part of the Cap-
ricornia Cays National Park and there is a
QPWS camping ground on the island’s west
side. The camping ground has bush toilets
but little else and campers must be totally
self-sufficient, even bringing their own wa-
ter. Numbers are limited to 40 at any one
time, so apply well ahead for a permit with
the QPWS (% 13 74 68). Online bookings can
be made through www.qld.gov.au/camping –
search under Capricornia Cays National
Park. Don’t forget to bring a gas stove as
fires are not permitted on the island.
Day trips to Lady Musgrave depart from
the Town of 1770 marina.
Heron & Wilson Islands
With the underwater reef world accessible
directly from the beach, Heron Island is
famed for scuba diving and snorkelling, al-
though you’ll need a fair amount of cash to
visit. A true coral cay, it is densely vegetated
with pisonia trees and surrounded by 24 sq
km of reef. There’s a resort and research sta-
tion on the northeastern third of the island;
the remainder is national park.
The former five-star Heron Island Resort
(% 07-4972 9055, 1800 737 678; www.heronisland.
com; s/d incl buffet breakfast from $398/499) has
seen better days but it is certainly not rea-
son to stay away from the island. The Point
Suites still have the best views and the fam-
ily rooms are comfortable enough not to de-

tract from the island experience. However,
the restaurant (and only place to eat) might
be considered below par in both service
and food quality considering the high price.
Guests will pay $200/100 per adult/child for
launch transfer, or $790/430 for helicopter
transfer. Both are from Gladstone.
Wilson Island (www.wilsonisland.com; s/d
from $853/1100), also part of a national park, is
an exclusive wilderness retreat with six per-
manent tents and solar-heated showers. The
inclusive menu is superb, as are the beaches,
especially for snorkelling. The only access is
from Heron Island and you’ll need to buy a
combined Wilson-Heron package and spend
at least two nights on Wilson Island.
A gnes Water &
Town of 1770
Surrounded by national parks, sandy beaches
and the blue Pacific, the twin coastal towns
of Agnes Water and Town of 1770 are among
Queensland’s most appealing seaside desti-
nations. The tiny settlement of Agnes Water
has a lovely white-sand beach, the east coast’s
most northerly surf beach, while the even ti-
nier Town of 1770 (little more than a marina!)
marks Captain Cook’s first landing in Queens-
land. This area provides good access to the
southern end of the reef, including the Fitzroy
Reef Lagoon. The ‘Discovery Coast’ is a popu-
lar nook for surfing, boating and fishing away
from the crowds. To get here, turn east off the
Bruce Hwy at Miriam Vale, 70km south of
Gladstone. It’s another 57km to Agnes Water
and a further 6km to the Town of 1770.
2 Activities
The action around here happens on and in
the water. Agnes Water is supposedly Queens-
land’s northernmost surf beach. A surf life-
saving club patrols the main beach and there
are often good breaks along the coast.
Reef 2 Beach Surf School SURFING
(% 07-4974 9072; www.reef2beachsurf.com; 1/10
Round Hill Rd, Agnes Water) Learn to surf on the
gentle breaks of the main beach with this
highly acclaimed surf school. A three-hour
group surfing lesson is $17, and surfboard
hire is $20 for four hours.
1770 Liquid Adventures KAYAKING
(% 0428 956 630; www.1770liquidadventures.com.
au; 2hr kayak rental $40) Liquid runs a spec-
tacular twilight kayak tour ($55).
36 3
1770 Underwater Sea Adventures DIVING
(% 1300 553 889; www.1770underseaadventures.
com.au) Check availability prior to landing
in town. Courses, reef trips and wreck dives
all doable.
Scooteroo MOTORCYCLING
(% 07-4974 7696; www.scooterrootours.com; 21 Bi-
centennial Dr, Agnes Water; 3hr chopper rides $60)
Irreverent and engaging 60km ride around
the area.
T Tours
1770 Larc Tours TOUR
(% 07-4974 9422; www.1770larctours.com.au;
adult/child $148/88) A pink amphibious
military vehicle emerging from the water
around Bustard Head and Eurimbula Na-
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef Agn
tional Park sounds counter-intuitive to eco-
tourism yet somehow the whole spirit of the
thing feels right. If a day is too long, the out-
fit also runs one-hour sunset cruises ($38)
and sandboarding safaris ($120 per person).
Lady Musgrave Cruises CRUISE
(% 07-4974 9077; www.1770reefcruises.com; Cap-
tain Cook Dr; adult/child $175/85) Has excellent
day trips to Lady Musgrave Island aboard
the Spirit of 1770. Trips include snorkelling,
fishing gear, coral viewing in a semisub-
mersible, lunch and snacks. Island camp-
ing transfers are also available for $320 per
person.
ThunderCat 1770 ADVENTURE, TOUR
(% 0427 177 000; adult/child $85/65) Ride in
a 4m inflatable surf racing craft across the
C ap irevisictWat
Act
waves or visit secluded beaches, learn some
local history and explore 1770’s pristine wa-
terways and national-park coastline.
oi ersneCroast
4 Sleeping
Backpackers 1770 HOSTEL $
& To wn o f 1 7 7 0
(% 07-4974 9132; www.the1770backpackers.com;
7 Agnes St; dm/d $25/55; i ) Small friendly
backpackers 700m from the beach.
1770 Southern ¨
Cross Tourist Retreat HOSTEL $
(% 07-4974 7225; www.1770southerncross.com;
2694 Round Hill Rd; dm/d incl breakfast $25/85;
is ) There’s an enlightened approach to
budget accommodation at this retreat, with
6.5 hectares of bushland 2.5km out of town.
Buddhist statues, a meditation sala and a
fish-filled, swimmable lake are ideal for pen-
sive reflection, or sleeping off a hangover.
The rooms have a hint of southeast Asia and
the dorms are the best for miles.
36 4

Capricorn Coast
Clermont Ogmore
Mis ta k
Cre e

Middlemount
ke

Marlborough
Capella Tieri

River

r
ve
Rubyvale

Ri
Anakie

y
Sapphire Gemfields

Fitzro
zie
67
Anakie Emerald k en
M ac
A4 Gem Fields Blackwater
A4
Willows Comet Cap
ric orn Dingo
Gemfields Lake
Maraboon Two Mile Hw
Horseshoe y Duaringa
Falls Lookout
Snake Range Munall Blackdown
A7
National Park Comet Camping Tableland
Ground
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef Agn

National
Springsure Park
River

Da
ws
on Rannes

Creek
Baralaba
Hw
y

60 t Myella Farm Stay

Plane
Rolleston

Daw
Carnarvon
Brown

National Banana

son
Park
60 Moura
Big Bend Takarakka

River
Mt Moffatt Camping Bush Resort
Cr

A5
n Ground
ee
k

Wyseby
Ran rto
ge

Mt Moffat Carnarvon Lake

ste

Camping Gorge Nuga Expedition

National
Theodore
Ground Carnarvon Wilderness Nuga
Che

Park Isla Gorge

Gorge Lodge A7 National Park

Cool Bananas HOSTEL $ LaLaLand Retreat RETREAT $$

C lap
S

(% 1800 227 660, 07-4974 7660; www.coolbananas. (%07- 4974 9554; www.lalaland1770aw.com.au;
e erepisc

net.au; 2 Springs Rd; dm night/week $26/140; i ) 61 Bicentennial Dve, Agnes Water; cabin from $170;
A short walk from Agnes main beach and pas ) The four colourful cabins at this
i ng
Wat
o r neCroast

shopping precinct is this chilled-out back- new guesthouse on the road into town are
packers with very clean six- and eight-bed set in attractive bushland scrub and each
dorms. The greatest assets are the warm sleeps four people easily. There is an excel-
&To wn o f 1 7 7 0

staff and the bright communal areas. It’s es-
pecially popular with young Europeans.
1770 Camping Grounds CAMPGROUND $
(% 07-4974 9286; www.1770campinggrounds.
com; Captain Cook Dr; unpowered/powered sites
$33/38) A large peaceful park by the beach.
Agnes Water Beach ¨
Caravan Park CAMPGROUND $$
(% 07-4974 9132; www.agneswaterfirstpoint.com.
au; Jeffrey Ct; unpowered/powered sites $30/59,
cabins $160-$250) This park has tented cab-
ins on stilts that offer excellent-value beach-
front rooms. Each cabin comes with its own
deck, equipped with gas barbecue.
lent lagoon-style pool, wheelchair access
and, aside from potential nosy neighbours, a
sense of remove from civilisation.
Beach Shacks APARTMENT $$
(% 07-4974 9463; www.1770beachshacks.com; 578
Captain Cook Dr; d from $190) The best accom-
modation in the Town of 1770 proper is run
by a charming Canadian lady. These ‘shacks’
are more than humble beach dwellings, with
cane, bamboo and timber on the outside,
and contemporary decor on the inside. Ask
for the Light House.
 36 5
0 50 km
0 25 miles

SHOALWATER BAY
MILITARY TRAINING
AREA
Waterpark Eco-Tours
Byfield General Store
A1 Byfield
Byfield National
Mt Etna Caves Park & State Forest
National Park Nob Creek
Pottery
Capricorn Yeppoon CORAL
Caves Great Keppel Island
SEA
Emu Park Tryon
Rockhampton Island Capricorn
North West
A4 Island Group
Mt Tropic of C
Curtis Island apricorn
Morgan National Park Heron
Island Southern
A5 A1 Curtis Island Reef

Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef Agn

Dululu Islands
Wowan Mt Larcom Bunker
Gladstone Group
Boyne Island
Tannum Sands Lady Musgrave
Calliope Island
A3 n Hwy Lake
Turkey
wso Beach
Awoonga Eurimbula
Da Castle National Park
60
Tower Town of 1770
Kroombit National Park Agnes Water
Lochenbar Lady
Biloela Station Miriam Vale Deepwater Elliot
National Park Island
Bruc

16
e Hw

Kalpowar
y

A3 69
Lake
Monto Monduran Moore Park
A1
Bargara
Bundaberg

Captain Cook ¨ Sandcastles 1770 ¨ C lap

S
Holiday Village CAMPGROUND, CABIN $$ Motel & Resort MOTEL, RESORT $$
e erepisc

(% 07-4974 9219; www.1770holidayvillage.com.au; (% 07-4974 9428; www.sandcastles1770.com.

384 Captain Cook Dve; unpowered/powered sites au; 1 Grahame Colyer Dr; motel r from $120, villas
i ng
Wat
o r neCroast

from $35/41, cabins from $109, villas from $149; & beach-home apt $160-650; a i s ) Set on 4
ps ) Equidistant to both 1770 and Agnes Wa- hectares of landscaped gardens and sub-
ter is this fine camping complex that gets very tropical vegetation, Sandcastles has a mix
&To wn o f 1 7 7 0

popular in summer. The cabins are comfort-
able and well-maintained, and represent the
best value in town for couples or small groups.
Mango Tree Motel MOTEL $$
(% 07-4974 9132; www.mangotreemotel.com; 7
Agnes St; r from $140; a ) Good-value motel
with large rooms 100m from the beach.
Agnes Water Beach Club APARTMENT $$
(% 07-4974 7355; www.agneswaterbeachclub.com.
au; 3 Agnes St; 1-/2-bedroom apt from $145/190;
a i s ) Brand-new luxury apartments with
excellent facilities in a great location.
of motel-style rooms (from $90), luxury
beach-home apartments and airy Balinese-
themed villas. There’s also a popular restau-
rant on-site.
Pavillions on 1770 APARTMENT $$$
(% 07-4902 1000; www.pavillionson1770.com.au;
4 Beaches Village Circuit; 1-/2-bedroom apt from
$180/220; pas ) This prime development
on the site of the former Mantra looks a little
like a retirement village on a rugged section
of beach. Still, the apartments are brilliant:
huge bathrooms, state-of-the-art kitchens,
dual balconies and king-size beds. There are
two exquisite swimming pools and a Palm
366
Springs feel to the garden areas. The man-
agement is delightful.
Sovereign Lodge GUESTHOUSE $$$
(% 07-4974 9257; www.1770sovereignlodge.com; 1
Elliot St; d $185-310; as ) Recently renovated
high-end boutique accommodation and spa
with immaculate rooms, some with excel-
lent views from its hilltop perch. The best
option is ‘Lombok 1’.
5 Eating
o1770 Beach Hotel MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-4974 7446; 576 Captain Cook Dr; mains $14-
38; h breakfast, lunch & dinner) Immaculate
service, high quality seafood and a location
to warrant making a sea change make this
one of the finest restaurants on the Cap-
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef R
ricorn Coast. The front bar is a salty gem
while the more refined indoor stand-up is
perfect for a post-sunset pick-me-up. Take-
away booze available.
Getaway Garden Café MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-4974 9232; 303 Bicentennial Dr; mains $8-
27; h breakfast, lunch & dinner Sun-Thu, breakfast &
lunch Fri) The airy outdoor cafe serves delec-
table cakes for afternoon tea and is a short
walk from several deserted beaches.
Bustards CAFE $$
(7 Agnes St; mains $12-25; h breakfast, lunch &
dinner) The hottest breakfast spot in Agnes
Water is close to the main beach and right-
fully popular for its locally sourced seafood
and light lunches. Service comes in buckets
and spades.
Co
Eat
apck
Kahunas Pizza ¨
irng
Bar & Grill fauna on show with regular feeding tours.
ihcampto
MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-4974 9428; 1 Grahame Colyer Dr; mains $15-
o r n C oast
38; h dinner) Located inside a small resort,
Kahunas is a popular choice with locals,
n
especially for beer and fabulous wood-fired
pizza.
Agnes Water Tavern PUB $$
(% 07-4974 9469; 1 Tavern Rd; mains $15-30;
h lunch & dinner) Pleasant multi-purpose pub
with plenty of outdoor seating. Lunch and
dinner specials daily.
88 Information
Agnes Water Visitor Information Centre
(% 07-4902 1533; 71 Springs Rd; h 9am-
4.30pm Mon-Fri) Very friendly and helpful staff
at this brand-new $1-million community centre
about 700m from the main intersection.
88 Getting There & Away
Only one of several daily Greyhound (% 13 20
30; www.greyhound.com.au) buses detours
off the Bruce Hwy to Agnes Water; the direct
bus from Bundaberg ($25, 1½ hours) arrives
opposite Cool Bananas at 6.10pm. Others,
including Premier Motor Service (% 13 34 10;
www.premierms.com.au), drop passengers at
Fingerboard Rd.
Rockhampton
POP 61,724
If the wide-brimmed hats, cowboy boots and
V8 utes don’t tip you off, the large bull stat-
ues around town let you know you’re in the
‘beef capital’ of Australia. Despite the rough
edges, there’s something endearing about
Rockhampton’s crumbling art-deco and
Queenslander buildings, cowboy-collared
pub life and stiff tropical wind along the
mighty Fitzroy River. ‘Rocky’ has a smat-
tering of attractions but is best seen as the
gateway to the coastal gems of Yeppoon and
Great Keppel Island.
1 Sights
Botanic Gardens GARDENS
(% 07-4922 1654; Spencer St; h 6am-6pm) Rock-
hampton’s wonderful Botanic Gardens is
an oasis of Japanese gardens, lagoons and
immaculate lawns. There is good access for
those with disabilities, a kiosk and an attrac-
tive picnic area.
Rockhampton Zoo ZOO
(Botanic Gardens, Spencer St; h 8am-4.30pm)
F There’s Australian native flora and
Dreamtime ¨
Cultural Centre CULTURAL CENTRE
(% 07-4936 1655; www.dreamtimecentre.com.au;
Bruce Hwy; adult/child $14/6.50; h 10am-3.30pm
Mon-Fri, tours 10.30am) An easily accessible
insight into Aboriginal and Torres Strait
Islander heritage and history. The excellent
90-minute tours are hands on (boomer-
angs!) and appeal to all ages. It’s about 7km
north of the centre.
Rockhampton City Art Gallery
GALLERY
(62 Victoria Pde; h 10am-4pm Tue-Fri, 11am-4pm
Sat & Sun) F This gallery exhibits an im-
pressive collection of Australian paintings,
including works by Sir Russell Drysdale, Sir
Sidney Nolan and Albert Namatjira.

4 Sleeping
Choose somewhere in the old centre, south
of the river, if you want to stroll the more
elegant streets overlooking the Fitzroy
River.
Rockhampton YHA HOSTEL $
(% 07-4927 5288; www.yha.com.au; 60 MacFarlane
St; dm/d $22/60; ais ) This well-maintained
hostel has a spacious lounge and dining
area, dorms, private doubles and cabins. The
hostel arranges tours, has courtesy pick-ups
from the bus station, and sells coach tickets.
There’s also free bike hire.
Heritage Hotel HOTEL $
(% 07-4927 6996; www.theheritagehotel.com.au;
228 Quay St; dm/s/d $25/56/107; paiW )
This old pub with iron-lattice balconies has
a stylish cocktail lounge with river views and
outdoor tables. The rooms are decent for the
price with shared bathrooms and a beautiful
wraparound balcony. Can be noisy on week-
ends. Good place for a drink.
Southside Holiday Village CAMPGROUND $
(% 1800 075 911; www.sshv.com.au; Lower Daw-
son Rd; sites unpowered/powered/with bathroom
$25/32/42, cabins $62-102; as ) This excellent
caravan park has cabins, villas and large
grassy camp sites about 3km south of the
centre. There’s a courtesy coach.
Criterion HOTEL $$
(% 07-4922 1225; www.thecriterion.com.au; 150
Quay St; r $60-85, motel r $130-160; a ) No long-
er haunted by that pesky chambermaid, ap-
parently, the Criterion is a grand old hotel
on the Fitzroy. The foyer is full of charm and
the bar and bistro heave with locals. The pe-
riod rooms upstairs are mixed, so see a few.
Denison Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
(% 07-4923 7378; www.denisonhotel.com.au; 233
Denison St; r $105-165; ai ) This freshly reno-
vated 1885 Victorian home is an easy walk
from Quay St. Its stately rooms come with
four-poster beds and plasma TVs, and the
hotel’s Rolls Royce can pick you up from the
airport or station.
The Bridge Motor Inn MOTEL $$
(% 07-4927 7488; www.thebridgemotorinn.com.au;
31 Bolsover St; r $95-130; paWs ) Found on
the way into town, The Bridge is one of the
better motor inns in Rocky. The pool is ideal
for freshening up and the rooms are clean
and quiet.
36 7
STINGERS
It mightn’t look or feel pretty, but un-
less you stay out of the water a ‘stinger
suit’ is your only real protection against
Queensland’s lethal jellyfish (and
harmful UV rays). There are two to be
aware of: the rare and tiny (1cm to 2cm
across) irukandji and the box jellyfish,
also known as the sea wasp or stinger.
They’re found in coastal waters north
of Rockhampton (occasionally further
south) from around October to April,
although the danger periods can vary.
If someone has been stung, call an
ambulance or get a lifeguard (artificial
respiration may be required), douse the
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef R
stings with vinegar (available on many
beaches or from nearby houses) and
seek medical aid.
Check with lifeguards whether the
stingers are out. If so, stick to the hotel
pool.
Coffee House MOTEL, APARTMENT $$
(% 07-4927 5722; www.coffeehouse.com.au; 51
William St; r $160-189; a s ) The Coffee House
features beautifully appointed motel rooms,
self-contained apartments and spa suites.
There’s a popular and stylish cafe-restaurant–
wine bar on-site.
5 Eating & Drinking
Saigon Saigon ASIAN $$
(% 07-4927 0888; www.saigonbytheriver.com; Quay
C lo
S ap
St; mains $15-20; h lunch & dinner Wed-Mon; v )
eck
erpihc
The only restaurant on the riverside of Quay
i ng
St is in a two-storey bamboo hut. The Viet-
ampto
o r n C oast
namese and Chinese dishes are spot on, and
any of the curries do the trick. Vegetarians
n
have plenty to choose from.
Bistro 98 SEAFOOD, STEAKHOUSE $$
(% 07-4927 5322; www.98.com.au; 98 Victoria Pde;
mains $18-46; h breakfast daily, lunch Mon-Fri,
dinner Mon-Sat) One of Rocky’s finest, this
licensed dining room features modern Aus-
tralian versions of kangaroo, steak, lamb
and seafood. Sit inside or on the terrace
overlooking the river.
Pacino’s ITALIAN $$$
(% 07-4922 5833; cnr Fitzroy & George Sts; mains
$25-40; h dinner Tue-Sun) Prices are a little
steep for fairly typical Italian fare. The staff
are excellent though and the stone floors,
36 8
wooden tables and potted fig trees create a
touch of Roman charm.
Great Western Hotel BAR
(www.greatwesternhotel.com.au; 39 Stanley St)
Drink rum and beer, eat superlative steak
and – on Wednesday and Friday nights –
practise your bullriding skills in the rodeo
arena.
7 Shopping
Mavericks CLOTHING
(% 07-4921 0622; 161 Canning St) Mavericks sells
quality belt buckles, Akubra hats, stockman
whips and other countrified regalia.
88 Information
Rockhampton Visitor Information Centre
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef A
(208 Quay St) is in the beautiful former Customs
House.
88 Getting There & Away
AIR
Rockhampton is serviced by Qantas (% 13 13
13; www.qantas.com.au) and Virgin Australia
(% 13 67 89; www.virginaustralia.com).
BUS
Greyhound Australia (% 13 20 30; www.grey-
hound.com.au) has regular services from Rocky
to Mackay ($59, four hours), Brisbane ($151, 11
hours) and Cairns ($189, 18 hours). All services
stop at the Mobil roadhouse (91 George St).
Premier Motor Service (% 13 34 10; www.
premierms.com.au) operates a Brisbane–Cairns
service, stopping at Rockhampton.
Ch
S
TRAIN
r
ap
o ru
Queensland Rail (% 1800 872 467; www.
ppind
ci o
queenslandrail.com.au) runs the Tilt Train, which
ng
connects Rockhampton with Brisbane (from
r
Rno ck
$130, 7½ hours, Sunday to Friday) and Cairns
C oast
(from $229, 16 hours, twice weekly). The train
h ampto n
station is 450m southwest of the city centre.
A round Rockhampton
About 23km north of Rockhampton, in the
Berserker Range, are the impressive Cap-
ricorn Caves (% 07-4934 2883; www.capri-
corncaves.com.au; 30 Olsens Caves Rd; adult/child
$27/14; h 9am-4pm). These deeply illuminat-
ed limestone passages are particularly spec-
tacular during the summer solstice period
(1 December to 14 January), when the sun
beams vertical shafts of light through the
roof of the Belfry Cave. Guided tours leave
on the hour.
In bushland next to the caves, the excel-
lent Capricorn Caves Cabins (% 07-4934
2883; www.capricorncaves.com.au; 30 Olsens
Caves Rd; powered sites $34, cabins from $140)
provide a novel experience. The camping
facilities are fairly modest.
Myella Farm Stay (% 07-4998 1290; www.
myella.com; Baralaba Rd; 2/4 days $260/480, day
trips $120; ais ) is a 1040-hectare beef
property, 120km southwest of Rockhamp-
ton, with a fully renovated homestead fitted
with hardwood floors and pine-scented mod
cons. You can care for orphaned joeys at the
on-site kangaroo rehab centre, ride horses
or just unwind in the almost outback. Prices
include free transfers from Rockhampton.
Kroombit Lochenbar Station (% 07-
4992 2186; www.kroombit.com.au; dm $27, d with/
without bathroom $84/68, 2-day & 2-night pack-
ages per person incl room, meals & activities $280;
ais ) is a fine farm stay, 35km east of
Biloela.
Yeppoon
POP 13,500
The gateway to Great Keppel Island, Yeppoon
is an attractive seaside village with pleasant
beaches giving way to untapped rainforest
around Byfield. Travelling south, you pass
Rosslyn Bay, the departure point for Great
Keppel, and lovely little Emu Park, before
winding your way along scenic coastline.
4 Sleeping
Emu’s Beach Resort & ¨
Backpackers HOSTEL $
(% 1800 333 349; www.emusbeachresort.com;
92 Pattison St, Emu Park; dm $25-28, d/tr/q
$80/95/105; ais ) Emu Beach Resort is a
down-tempo seaside escape for young fami-
lies after space and quiet or backpackers fin-
ished with the East Coast party scene. The
dorms and doubles are well-presented and
surround an attractive pool and barbecue
area. If you can wrestle away from the new
bar, the empty beach across the road is beau-
tiful. It’s 19km south of Yeppoon.
Beachside Caravan Park CAMPGROUND $
(% 07-4939 3738; Farnborough Rd; unpowered sites
$25, powered sites $30-34) Very basic camping
park north of the town centre, with a beach-
front location its saving grace.
Surfside Motel MOTEL $$
(% 07-4939 1272; 30 Anzac Pde; r $110-140;
aiWs ) This 1950s strip of lime-green
 369

BYFIELD
Diverse and beautiful, Byfield National Park consists of monstrous sand dunes, thick
semi-tropical rainforest, wetlands and rocky pinnacles. It’s superb Sunday-arvo driving
terrain, with plenty of hiking paths and isolated beaches to warrant a longer stay. There
are five camping grounds (% 13 74 68; www.derm.qld.gov.au/camping; per person/family
$5.85/21.80) to choose from; all must be prebooked. Nine Mile Beach and Five Rocks
campgrounds are on the beach and require a 4WD to access. When conditions are right,
there’s decent surf at Nine Mile Beach. Byfield General Store (% 07-4935 1190; Byfield
Rd, Byfield; h 8am-6pm Wed-Mon, to 2pm Tue) doubles as an information centre. It also
stocks fuel and famous vegie burgers ($10).
The area is also known for the highly controversial military training facility at Shoal-
water Bay that borders the forest and park, and is strictly off-limits.
You can unfurl your senses in the rainforest on a silent, electric-boat tour with Wa-
terpark Eco-Tours (% 07-4935 1171; www.waterparkecotours.com; 201 Waterpark Creek Rd;
2-3hr tours $25, cabins $120).
Nob Creek Pottery (% 07-4935 1161; 216 Arnolds Rd; h 9am-5pm) F is a working

Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef Y

pottery and gallery nestled in leafy rainforest. The gallery showcases hand-blown glass,
woodwork and jewellery, and the handmade ceramics are outstanding.
Built by the multi-faceted owners of Nob Creek Pottery, Byfield Mountain Retreat
(% 07-4935 1161; www.byfieldmountainretreat.com; per night/week $220/1200 ) is a remark-
able place to stay. Set on 66 acres of richly scented rainforest splendour, the house
sleeps 12 and overlooks a working dam. The interior is influenced by Balinese aesthet-
ics, and there’s a log fire, walking trails and king-size beds. The verandah views of the
hinterland are heady.
Signposted just north of Byfield, Ferns Hideaway (% 07-4935 1235; www.fernshidea-
way.com.au; 67 Cahills Rd, Byfield; unpowered sites $24, d $150; as ) is a secluded bush
oasis with double rooms, a campground and canoeing and nature walks. The timber
homestead has a quality à la carte restaurant (mains $18 to 32; open breakfast Sunday,
lunch and afternoon tea Wednesday to Sunday and dinner Saturday) featuring live mu-
sic on weekends.
Byfield Creek Lodge (% 07-4935 1117; www.byfieldcreeklodge.com.au; 32 Richters Rd,
Byfield; d incl breakfast from $150; a ) is an African-themed B&B set on 3.2 hectares of
rainforest overlooking Byfield Creek.
C eap
Eat pp

motel units epitomises summer holidays from high on Bluff Point are gobsmacking at
irng

at the beach. They are very popular due to this series of Mediterranean-style villas lo-
o
i coo&

their fair price, proximity to the beach (it’s cated a short, steep walk from the Yeppoon
nrDnrCi nk

across the road) and friendly service. shops. The friendly owners – who made a
sea-change from Victoria – maintain im-
Coast Motel
oast

MOTEL $$
maculate premises and have a contender for
(% 07-4930 2325; www.thecoastmotel.com.au; 52
i ng

a ‘Best View From a Pool’ award.

Scenic Hwy; r from $135; paWs ) Located a
few clicks from town but still on the beach,
this brand new motel has minimalist, white
rooms in a raised, old-style motor inn set-up.
While Away B&B B&B $$
(% 07-4939 5719; www.whileawaybandb.com.au;
44 Todd Ave; s/d incl breakfast $115/140; a ) This
B&B makes for a peaceful getaway, with
four good-sized rooms and an immaculately
clean house, as well as generous breakfasts.
Villa Mar Colina BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(% 07-4939 3177; www.villamarcolina.com.au; 34
Adelaide St; villa from $210; paWs ) The views
5 Eating & Drinking
The Shore Thing CAFE $
(% 07-4939 1993; 1/6 Normanby St; mains $10-
16; h 7.30am-5pm Sun-Thu) This bright, sure
thing is the pick of the local cafes due to its
prompt service and yummy breakfasts.
Shio Kaze JAPANESE $$
(% 07-4939 5575; 18 Anzac Pde; for 2 people about
$70; h lunch & dinner Wed-Sun) Delectable su-
shi opposite the beach, though it’s not cheap
($25 for a smallish single-person platter)
370
and service was a little priggish when we
visited. Lunchtime bento boxes ($22 to $29)
are better value. BYO alcohol.
Thai Take-Away THAI $$
(24 Anzac Pde; mains $12-25; h dinner) A deserv-
edly popular BYO restaurant where you can
dine alfresco while satisfying those chilli
and coconut cravings. There’s a large selec-
tion of seafood dishes and snappy service.
Megalomania FUSION $$$
(% 07-4939 2333; Arthur St; mains $22-36;
h lunch & dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Sun) An urban-
island vibe permeates Yeppoon’s best res-
taurant which serves a kind of Oz-Asian
fusion cuisine, with emphasis on seafood.
The barramundi spring rolls ($18) and coco-
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef G
nut king prawn laksa ($36) set the tone (and
the standard price range) for the lunch and
dinner menus. Acoustic music and smooth
cocktails round out the experience.
Strand Hotel PUB
(2 Normanby St) Threatened for redevelop-
ment, the Strand is still a battered old beast
serving $10 counter meals to some clientele
who possess a certain battered charm.
88 Information
Capricorn Coast Information Centre (% 1800
675 785; www.capricorncoast.com.au; Scenic
Hwy; h 9am-5pm) For info on the area, head to
Capricorn Coast Information Centre.
Great Keppel Island
C ap
Inrfo
Great Keppel Island is a stunning island with
er
rocky headlands, forested hills and a fringe
at
ri c
mat
of powdery white sand lapped by clear azure
Koerpp
waters. Numerous ‘castaway’ beaches ring
ino eC
the 14-sq-km island, while natural bushland
nloast
covers 90% of the interior. A string of huts
Is l and
and accommodation options sits behind the
trees lining the main beach, but the develop-
ments are low-key and unobtrusive and the
island itself is only 13km offshore.
The kiosk at Great Keppel Island Holiday
Village has a few essentials, but if you want
to cook bring your own supplies.
1 Sights & Activities
The beaches of Great Keppel rate among
Queensland’s best. Take a short stroll from
Fisherman’s Beach, the main beach, and
you’ll find your own deserted stretch of
white sand. There is fairly good coral and
excellent fish life, especially between Great
Keppel and Humpy Island to the south. A
30-minute walk south around the headland
brings you to Monkey Beach, where there’s
good snorkelling. A walking trail from the
southern end of the airfield takes you to
Long Beach, perhaps the best of the island’s
beaches.
There are several bushwalking tracks
from Fisherman’s Beach; the longest and
perhaps most difficult leads to the 2.5m
‘lighthouse’ near Bald Rock Point on the far
side of the island (three hours return).
Keppel Reef Scuba Adventures DIVING
(% 07-4939 5022, 0408 004 536; www.keppeldive.
com; Putney Beach) Keppel Reef Scuba Ad-
ventures offers introductory dives for $200,
snorkelling trips (per person $50), and also
hires out snorkelling gear (per day $15).
Watersports Hut WATER SPORTS
(% 07-4925 0624; Putney Beach; h weekends &
school holidays) The Watersports Hut is just
one of a few places hiring sailboards, cata-
marans, motorboats and snorkelling gear. It
can also take you waterskiing, parasailing or
camel-riding.
4 Sleeping & Eating
oSvendsen’s Beach CABIN $
(% 07-4938 3717; www.svendsensbeach.com;
cabins for 3 nights per person $330) From the
moment the water-taxi collects you from
Putney Beach, you will feel the worries of
the mainland drift away. Bushwalking, snor-
kelling, bird watching and generally lazing
about are all highly recommended. There
are two luxury tent-bungalows on separate
elevated timber decks, each with a small
kitchen. BYO grub (food). Minimum three-
night stay.
Great Keppel Island Backpackers &
Holiday Village
HOSTEL, CABIN $$
(%07-4939 8655; www.gkiholidayvillage.com.au;
dm $35, s & d tents $90, cabins $150, 2-bedroom
houses for 5 nights from $850) Well-managed
operation that acts as a sort of hub for the
(modest) travel community on the island.
The communal facilities are excellent and
the entire premises is neat and orderly. Most
guests choose the large ‘tents’ but the newly
renovated houses are great value if you have
a bit of a mob.
Keppel Lodge GUESTHOUSE $$
(% 07-4939 4251; www.keppellodge.com.au; Fish-
erman’s Beach; d $110) A pleasant open-plan
house with four large bedrooms branching

from a large communal lounge and kitchen.
The house is available in its entirety ($440)
or as individual motel-type suites.
Island Pizza PIZZA $
(% 07-4939 4699; The Esplanade; dishes $6-30)
This friendly place prides itself on its gour-
met pizzas with plenty of toppings. Check
the blackboard for opening times.
88 Getting There & Away
Freedom Fast Cats (% 07-4933 6244, 1800 336
244; www.freedomfastcats.com) depart from the
Keppel Bay marina in Rosslyn Bay (7km south of
Yeppoon) for Great Keppel Island each morning,
returning that same afternoon (call ahead for
precise times). The return fare is $50/30/145
per adult/child/family. If you have booked ac-
commodation, check that someone will meet you
on the beach to help with your luggage.
Other Keppel Bay Islands
Although you can make day trips to the
fringing coral reefs of Middle Island or Half-
way Island from Great Keppel Island (ask
your accommodation or at Great Keppel
Island Holiday Village), you can also camp
(per person/family $5.85/21.80) on several
national park islands, including Humpy Is-
land, Middle Island, North Keppel Island
and Miall Island. You’ll need all your own
supplies, including water. For information
and permits contact the QPWS (% 13 74 68;
www.qld.gov.au/camping) or Rosslyn Bay Ma-
rine Parks (% 07-4933 6595).
The Queensland brewing giant XXXX
has recently leased the very glamorous
Pumpkin Island until 2015. So, unless you
have any luck with a ‘specially marked’ box
of beer, you are not allowed to visit the
island.
From Rosslyn Bay, Funtastic Cruises
(%0438 909 502; cruises adult/child $90/75)
off­ers day cruises exploring the islands and
can also provide drop-offs and pick-ups for
campers
Capricorn Hinterland
The Central Highlands, west of Rockhamp-
ton, are home to two excellent national
parks. Blackdown Tableland National Park
is a brooding, powerful place, while visitors
to Carnarvon National Park come mostly for
the spectacular gorge. At Emerald, 270km
inland, you can break your back and your
37 1
spirit fossicking for gems in the heat and
rubble. Try to stick to the cooler months be-
tween April and November.
Blackdown Tableland
National Park
Spooky, spectacular Blackdown Tableland
is a 600m sandstone plateau that rises
suddenly out of the flat plains of central
Queensland. It’s a bushwalker’s heaven
here, with unique wildlife and plant species
and a strong Indigenous artistic and spir-
itual presence. The turn-off to Blackdown
Tableland is 11km west of Dingo and 35km
east of the coal-mining centre of Blackwa-
ter. The 23km gravel road, which begins at
the base of the tableland, isn’t suitable for
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef Ot
caravans and can be unsafe in wet weather
– the first 8km stretch is steep, winding and
often slippery. At the top you’ll come to the
breath­taking Horseshoe Lookout, with
picnic tables, barbecues and toilets. There’s
a walking trail to Two Mile Falls (2km)
starting here.
Munall Camping Ground (% 13 74 68;
www.qld.gov.au/camping; per person/family $5.45/
21.80) is about 8km on from Horseshoe
Lookout. It has pit toilets and fireplaces –
you’ll need water, firewood and/or a fuel
stove. Bookings are essential.
Gem Fields
West of Emerald (named after Emerald
Creek, in turn named after local prospector
Jack Emerald) sit 640 sq km of gem fields
C ap
G
eh
that draw a regular trickle of heart-strong
ttr
e irng
speckers who eke out a living until a jackpot –
c KoerTpp
or sunstroke – arrives. Rare and precious ru-
bies, sapphires and zircons do find their way
nh eC
to the surface from time to time, especially
erloast
after a heavy rain.
eB&ayAway
To go fossicking you need a licence
(adult/family $6.85/9.80) from one of the
Is l ands
gem fields’ general stores or post offices.
If you just wish to dabble, you can buy a
bucket of ‘wash’ (mine dirt in water) from
one of the fossicking parks and hand-sieve
and wash it.
Anakie, 42km west of Emerald, dubs it-
self the ‘Gateway to the Gemfields’. As such,
there is a feeling of neglect in the tired,
empty streets, perhaps due to the one-track
mindedness of local industry.
Another 18km on is Rubyvale, the
main town on the fields, and 2km further
is the excellent Miners Heritage Walk-in
37 2
Mine (% 07-4985 4444; Heritage Rd, Rubyvale;
adult/child $13/5; h 9am-5pm). Informative
30-minute underground tours are available
here throughout the day in which you de-
scend into a maze of tunnels 18m beneath
the surface.
There are caravan-camping parks at Ana-
kie, Rubyvale and Willows Gemfields.
Run by a couple of experienced travellers,
the spruced-up Sapphire Caravan Park
Retreat (% 07-4985 4281; www.sapphirecaravan-
park.com.au; 57 Sunrise Rd, Sapphire; unpowered/
powered sites $25/29, miners hut/cottage/ste
$75/115/125) is near the centre of town. It has
a range of sleeping options, including fancy
suites and miners huts. The shared facilities
surpass the regional standard.
Pat’s Gems (% 07-4985 4544; 1056 Rubyvale
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C
Rd; cabins $85; h cafe 8.30am-5pm; a ) has four
clean cabins, which fill quickly with happy
regulars and families. There’s a camp bar-
becue, kitchen area and an on-site cafe. The
proprietress and namesake is a delight.
Carnarvon National Park
Carnarvon Gorge is a dramatic rendition of
Australian natural beauty. Escaped convicts
often took refuge here among ancient rock
paintings. The area was made a national
park in 1932 after defeated farmers forfeited
their pastoral lease.
The 30km-long, 200m-high gorge was
carved out over millions of years by Car-
narvon Creek and its tributaries twisting
through soft sedimentary rock. What was
O ap
G
left behind is a lush, other-worldly oasis,
eutt
where life flourished, shielded from the stark
tback
r i ng
terrain. You’ll find giant cycads, king ferns,
c o rTnh eHri nt
river oaks, flooded gums, cabbage palms,
deep pools and platypuses in the creek.
For most people, Carnarvon Gorge is the
Carnarvon National Park, because the other
e &e rAway
sections – including Mt Moffatt (where In-
digenous groups lived some 19,000 years
l and
ago), Ka Ka Mundi and Salvator Rosa – have
long been difficult to access.
Coming from Rolleston the road is bitu-
men for 75km and unsealed for 20km. From
Roma via Injune and Wyseby homestead,
the road is good bitumen for about 215km,
then unsealed and fairly rough for the last
30km. After heavy rain, both these roads can
become impassable.
The entrance road leads to an informa-
tion centre (% 07-4984 4505; h 8-10am &
3-5pm) and scenic picnic ground. Limited
camping is available by the entrance dur-
ing school holidays. The main walking track
also starts here, following Carnarvon Creek
through the gorge, with detours to various
points of interest. These include the Moss
Garden (3.6km from the picnic area),
Ward’s Canyon (4.8km), the Art Gallery
(5.6km) and Cathedral Cave (9.3km). Allow
at least a whole day for a visit. Basic grocer-
ies and ice are available at Takarakka Bush
Resort. Petrol is not available anywhere in
the gorge – fill up at Rolleston or Injune.
You cannot drive from Carnarvon Gorge
to other sections of the park, although you
can reach beautiful Mt Moffatt via an un-
sealed road from Injune (4WD necessary).
Sunrover Expeditions (% 1800 353 717;
www.sunrover.com.au; per person incl all meals
$950) runs a five-day camping safari into Car-
narvon Gorge between March and October.
For accommodation, book ahead before
entering. Big Bend Camping Ground (% 13
74 68; www.qld.gov.au/camping; sites per person/
family $5.85/21.80) is an isolated campground
a 10km walk up the gorge. For Mt Moffatt
Camping Ground (% 13 74 68; www.qld.gov.
au/camping; sites per person/family $5.85/21.80),
campers need to be self-sufficient and have
a 4WD.
A little scrappy around the edges, Taka-
rakka Bush Resort (% 07-4984 4535; www.
takarakka.com.au; Wyseby Rd; unpowered/powered
sites from $38/45, cabins $195-228) is still popu-
lar with families and bush whackers. The
overpriced safari tents ($132) are OK for the
ill-prepared. The ensuite cabins are tiring by
the season but can sleep four and therefore
represent decent value. Reception sells basic
groceries, maps, booze, ice and fresh linen
($10). The resort is 5km from the entry to
the gorge.
Outback chic is on offer at the attrac-
tive Carnarvon Gorge Wilderness Lodge
(% 1800 644 150; www.carnarvon-gorge.com;
Wyseby Rd; d from $220; h closed Nov-Feb; s ),
set deep in the bush. Excellent guided tours
are available, plus a full-board package
(from $155 to $300 per person).
There are no bus services to Carnarvon,
so the best way to get here is to hire a car or
take an overnight tour from the coast.
OUTBACK
The outback is a mythological frontier
where settler folk struck open the deep-red
earth and bored out a nation through grit

and verse. Past the Great Dividing Range
the sky opens up over tough country, both
relentless and beautiful, and the ancient
song lines run deep. Travellers come for the
exotic and intimate Australian experience,
their restlessness tamed by the sheer size
of the place, its luminous colours and its
silence.
Although sparsely settled, the outback
is well serviced by major roads, namely
the Overlander’s Way (Flinders and Barkly
Hwys – Rtes 78 and 66) and the Matilda
Hwy (Landsborough Hwy, Rte 71) and
Burke Developmental Rd (Rte 83). Once
you turn off these major arteries, however,
road conditions deteriorate rapidly, serv-
ices are remote and you need to be fully
self-sufficient, carrying spare parts, fuel
and water. Also do some planning, as some
sights and accommodation options (in par-
ticular the outback stations) close from
November to March, the outback’s hottest
period.
There are some very active and friendly
local communities in the region and plenty
on offer for adventurers.
Charters Towers to
Cloncurry
The Flinders Hwy runs a gruelling 775km
stretch of mostly flat road from Charters
Towers west to little Cloncurry. The highway
was originally a Cobb & Co coach run, and
along its length are small towns established
as coach stopovers. The main towns out
here are Prairie (200km west of Charters
Towers), Hughenden, Richmond and Julia
Creek where you can pick up the sealed
Wills Developmental Rd north to Burke-
town (467km).
The Kronosaurus Korner (% 07-4741
3429; www.kronosauruskorner.com.au; 91 Goldring
St, Richmond; adult/child $20/10; h 8.30am-4pm)
centre houses easily the best collection of
marine fossils in the region, most found by
local landholders. Pride of place goes to an al-
most complete 4.25m pliosaur skeleton – one
of Australia’s best vertebrate fossils – and a
partial skeleton of Kronosaurus queenslan-
dicus, the largest known marine reptile to
have ever lived here.
The relatively lush Porcupine Gorge
National Park (% 13 74 68; www.qld.gov.au/
camping; camping per person/family $5.85/21.80)
is an oasis in the dry country north of Hugh-
enden. The best spot to go to is Pyramid
37 3
Lookout, 70km north of Hughenden, where
you can camp by a running creek and walk
into the gorge.
At Prairie, located 200km west of Char-
ters Towers, the friendly, supposedly haunt-
ed Prairie Hotel (% 07-4741 5121; Flinders
Hwy; unpowered/powered sites $15/20, s/d from
$60/90; a ) is filled with memorabilia and
atmosphere.
FJ Holden’s (% 07-4741 5121; cnr Brodie St
& Flinders Hwy, Hughenden; meals $5-24; h 8am-
8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-8pm Sun) has an interesting
display of dinosaur fossils and is an excel-
lent car-themed burger joint.
Cloncurry
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C
POP 3428
Lying 121km east of Mt Isa, the ‘Curry’ was
the birthplace of the Royal Flying Doctor
Service (RFDS). In the 19th century Cloncur-
ry was the largest producer of copper in the
British Empire. Today it’s a busy pastoral
centre with a reinvigorated mining industry.
It’s also the home of Bob Katter, a colourful
and parochial politician who recently found-
ed his own political party.
John Flynn Place (% 07-4742 4125; cnr
Daintree & King Sts; adult/child $8.50/4; h 8am-
4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct)
commemorates Flynn’s work in setting up
the invaluable Royal Flying Doctor Service.
The building incorporates an art gallery, cul-
tural centre and theatre.
Oh
G
OUTBACK FARM STAYS
eutt
a
tback
ritng
One of the best ways to experience
e r sT hTo
western Queensland is to stay on one
of the area’s vast cattle stations, where
you can get a close-up look at the way
e rwee&r sAway
of life – and the economic lifeblood – of
the outback. Most offer station tours
and other activities. Sadly, due to a
to C lo nc u r r y
range of economic factors, this is a
dwindling tourist market.
Carisbrooke Station (% 07-4657
0084; www.carisbrookestation.com.au;
Winton; unpowered sites d/f $17/25, d from
$90) Carisbrooke Station, on the out-
skirts of Winton, is the pride of the Phil-
lott Family. Incredible bush landscapes
spread out from the self-contained
accommodation. The property features
endless walking trails and the chance
to fossick for dinosaur bones.
374
The best place to sleep is the Wagon
Wheel Motel (% 07-4742 1866; 54 Ramsay St;
s/d from $85/96; as ), which is clean, com-
fortable and sports a friendly bar.
Mt Isa
POP 22,091
‘The Isa’ is one of the state’s longest-running
mining towns and a travel and lifestyle hub
for central Queensland. At night the sur-
rounding cliffs glow and zing with industry.
The proud locals share the dusty heat and geo-
graphic isolation – often over multiple beers –
and the sense of community is palpable.
The most pleasant surprise to first-time
visitors to Isa is the stark red beauty of the
place. Strange rocky formations – padded
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M
with olive-green spinifex – line the perim-
eter of town as deep-blue sunsets eclipse
all unnatural light. Nearby are a number of
under-visited camping spots and abandoned
mine trails that make for fun day trips for
those who like to return to ‘civilisation’ after
dark.
Try to visit in mid-August for Australia’s
largest rodeo.
1 Sights & Activities
Outback at Isa MUSEUM
(% 1300 659 660; www.outbackatisa.com.au; 19
Marian St; h 8.30am-5pm) The Australian
Tourism Award–winning Outback at Isa is
featured on most itineraries, and for good
reason, too. The hands-on museum provides
a colourful, articulate and air-conditioned
O iutgtback
S
overview of mining, pioneering and local
hIsa
history. It comprises a number of galleries
ts & Act i v i t i e s
and experiences like the Hard Times Mine
and the fascinating Riversleigh Fossil Cen-
tre. It also houses the Outback park. There’s
a good-value, two-day DiscoveryTourPass
($59), which combines all the attractions.
Swimming Pool SWIMMING
(% 07-4743 2137; cnr Isa St & Fourth Ave; admission
$4) Take refuge from the oppressive heat or
cut some morning laps.
4 Sleeping
Travellers Haven HOSTEL $
(% 07-4743 0313; www.travellershaven.com.au;
75 Spence St; dm/s/d $29/50/66; ais ) The
rooms are fairly modest and the shared fa-
cilities a little tired but the pool is one of the
best in Isa and the lounge is a great meeting
place. The lovely British owner will share
her passion for the region. Call ahead for
pick-ups.
Mt Isa Caravan Park CARAVAN PARK $
(% 07-4743 3252; www.mtisacaravanpark.com.au;
112 Marian St; unpowered/powered sites $27/35, on-
site caravans $70, villas $100; p s ) Impressive
tourist village with a swag of sleeping op-
tions, including self-contained units ($140).
The pool is a big’un and there are plenty of
shady grassed areas.
Fourth Avenue Motor Inn MOTEL $$
(% 07-4743 3477; www.fourthavemotorinn.com; 14
Fourth Ave; d from $135; p a s ) This friendly,
colourful motor inn, in a quiet residential
zone, has recently been renovated. The salt-
water pool is set in a neat outdoor area and
the rooms are a touch above the town aver-
age. Ask about long-term rates.
Spinifex Motel MOTEL $$
(% 07-4749 2944; www.spinifexmotel.com.au; 79
Marian St; r $160-200; aiW ) A brilliant little
establishment with large tiled rooms, tasteful
furniture, writing desks and private outdoor
patios. The staff are considered and courte-
ous. It’s a few blocks along the Barkly Hwy.
Central Point Motel
MOTEL $$
(% 07-4743 0666; www.centralpoint-motel.com; 6
Marian St; s/d $130/150; a s ) A short, steamy
walk from town, the Central Point has a
tropical atmosphere and well-equipped
kitchenettes in all the sunny rooms.
Red Earth Hotel HOTEL $$$
(% 1800 603 488; www.redearth-hotel.com.au; Ro-
deo Dr; d $180-250; ai ) Owned by a respect-
able man-about-town, the Red Earth tips
hats to the prosperous old west in its wide
corridors, period-style furniture (including
huge writing desks) and claw-foot bathtubs.
It’s worth paying the little extra for a private
balcony, spa and huge TV. There’s an excel-
lent restaurant in the lobby.
5 Eating & Drinking
Livingstone’s MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 1800 603 488; 26 Miles St; mains $15-38;
h lunch & dinner daily, breakfast Sat & Sun) The
poshest joint in town is run by an ex-Sydney
chef who knows his way around a souffle.
There are gourmet sandwiches and sal-
ads at lunch while dinner is more formal.
Scotch fillet with tiger prawns ($36) and the
barramundi ($34) were both hits when we
visited. Service and cocktails are awkwardly
sweet.
 6 66
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A B C D

Rodeo Bar & Grill STEAKHOUSE $$

(% 07-4749 8888; Rodeo Dr; mains $25-32;
Mt Isa
h 10am-late) Downstairs in the newly reno- æ Sights
vated Isa Hotel, Rodeo Bar & Grill is a sanc- 1 Outback at Isa .......................................D2
tuary for meatheads. Breakfast in a booth is
ÿ Sleeping
surprisingly good, and there are pizzas and
2 Central Point Motel...............................D2
tapas-style snacks for munching on the out- 3 Fourth Avenue Motor Inn.....................B3
side deck. 4 Red Earth Hotel.....................................B2
5 Travellers Haven...................................D3
O euttt
G
Buffs Club BAR, CLUB
(www.buffs.com.au; cnr Grace & Camooweal Sts;
tback
Isa

ú Eating
h 10am-midnight Sun & Mon, to 2am Fri & Sat)
i ng

6 Livingstone's ......................................... C1
Isa’s most central nightspot, with the busy
toT h

7 Rodeo Bar & Grill ..................................B2

Billabong Bar, a sundeck and live entertain-
Ch

ment on weekends. û Drinking & Nightlife

e raer l&e A

8 Buffs Club .............................................. C1

Irish Club BAR, CLUB
(% 07-4743 5678; 1 Nineteenth Ave) A multi-
vri lolue nd

purpose venue with a cavernous bar, a tacky Mt Isa and Townsville (economy seat/sleeper
club that heaves on weekends, poker ma- $125/188, 21 hours).
chines and a pretty good restaurant. The following car-hire firms have desks at the
airport: Avis (% 07-4743 3733), Hertz (% 07-
88 Getting There & Around 4743 4142) and Thrifty (% 07-4743 2911). For
a taxi to town ($25 to $35), call Mt Isa Taxis
Rex (% 13 17 13; www.rex.com.au) flies direct (% 07-4743 2333).
from Mt Isa to Townsville.
Greyhound Australia (% 13 14 99; www.
greyhound.com.au) has regular services to
Townsville ($157, 11½ hours), Longreach ($113, Mt Isa to Charleville
8½ hours) and Brisbane ($210, 26½ hours). Arguably the most popular road trip in out-
The Queensland Rail (% 1800 872 467; www. back Queensland runs east along the Barkly
queenslandrail.com.au) Inlander runs between Hwy to the Landsborough Hwy. It’s also the
376
shortest route to Longreach from Mt Isa. Be-
ginning 14km east of Cloncurry, the Lands-
borough heads southeast, passing through
McKinlay (91km), Kynuna (168km), Winton
(339km) and eventually hitting Longreach
(516km), Barcaldine (621km) and Charleville
(1020km).
The cringe-worthy classic Aussie comedy,
Crocodile Dundee, was filmed partly in tiny
McKinlay, otherwise famed for the Walka-
bout Creek Hotel (% 07-4746 8424; Landsbor-
ough Hwy; unpowered/powered sites $22/25, s $88;
p a ), a hot tin shack loaded with film mem-
orabilia and assorted Australiana. There are
small and basic motel units a block west of
the pub, or there’s a camping ground out the
back.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M
Winton
POP 1320
It’s pioneer days at 40 paces on main-
street Winton, a cattle and sheep centre
that dishes up tasty tourist cheese by the
swagful. While the period charms may be
forced, they’re also mighty infectious. A
short visit will have you happy-snapping
at the heritage buildings and brushing
up on your bush poetry. When you’ve run
out of things to do in the town, plan your
run with the dinosaurs (see the boxed text,
p378).
The Outback Festival (www.outbackfesti-
val.org) offers hilarious outback antics in late
September.
1 Sights
O iutgtback
S
Waltzing Matilda Centre MUSEUM
hIsa
(% 07-4657 1466; www.matildacentre.com.au; 50
ts to C h a r l e v i l l e
Elderslie St; adult/child/family $20/1/49; h 9am-
5pm) Doubling as the visitor information
booth, there is a surprising number of ex-
hibits here for a museum devoted to a song,
including an indoor billabong complete
with a squatter, troopers and a jolly swag-
man. The centre also houses the Qantilda
Pioneer Place, which has a huge range of
artefacts and displays on the founding of
Qantas.
Royal Theatre THEATRE, MUSEUM
(% 07-4657 1296; 73 Elderslie St; adult/child
$6.50/4; h screenings 8pm Wed Apr-Sep) Find
the world’s biggest deck chair in the open-air
Royal Theatre around the rear of the Wooka-
took Gift & Gem. There’s an old-movie-
world charm in the canvas-slung chairs,
corrugated tin walls and star-studded ceil-
ing. It has a small museum in the projection
room and screens old classics.
Arno’s Wall SCULPTURE
(Vindex St) Arno’s Wall, behind the North Gre-
gory Hotel, is Winton’s quirkiest attraction –
a 70m-long work-in-progress by artist Arno
Grotjahn, featuring a huge range of indus-
trial and household items, from televisions
to motorcycles, ensnared in the mortar.
4 Sleeping & Eating
oNorth Gregory Hotel HOTEL
(%07-4657 1375; 67 Elderslie St; r with bathroom
$80-90, without bathroom $60; a) This historic
art-deco beauty in the middle of the outback
has undergone its most extensive renovation
since the ’50s. The lobby is like a glamorous
film-noir set and the rooms are styled some-
where between its heyday and 20th-century
Brisbane. There’s an excellent bar and up-
market restaurant. ‘Waltzing Matilda’ was
allegedly first performed in the hotel on 6
April 1895.
Tattersalls Hotel PUB
(78 Elderslie St; mains $8-25; h 11am-9pm) This
friendly timber pub on the corner is an in-
congruous foodie destination with reasona-
bly priced pub food cooked with bush spices
and best served on the wooden verandah
facing the street.
88 Getting There & Away
Greyhound Australia (% 13 14 99; www.grey-
hound.com.au) connects Winton with Brisbane
($178, 20 hours), Mt Isa ($98, six hours) and
Longreach ($40, two hours).
Longreach
POP 3700
This prosperous outback town was the
home of Qantas early last century, but these
days it’s equally famous for the Australian
Stockman’s Hall of Fame & Outback Herit-
age Centre, one of outback Queensland’s
biggest attractions. The Tropic of Capricorn
passes through Longreach, and so do more
than a million sheep and cattle.
1 Sights
Australian Stockman’s Hall of ¨
Fame & Outback Heritage Centre MUSEUM
(%07-4658 2166; www.outbackheritage.com.au;
Landsborough Hwy; adult/child/family $29.50/
15/70; h9am-5pm) Australian Stockman’s
Hall of Fame & Outback Heritage Centre is a

tribute to the early stockmen and explorers
(check out the nifty maps), and has a range
of galleries covering Aboriginal culture and
European arrival. It’s 2km east of town to-
wards Barcaldine. Admission is valid for two
days. It closes December to mid-February.
Qantas Founders ¨
Outback Museum MUSEUM
(% 07-4658 3737; www.qfom.com.au; Lands-
borough Hwy; adult/child/family $21/11/49.50;
h 9am-5pm) Qantas Founders Outback Mu-
seum houses a life-size replica of an Avro
504K, the first aircraft owned by the fledg-
ling airline. Interactive multimedia and
working displays tell the history of Qantas.
Next door, the original 1921 Qantas hangar
houses a mint-condition DH-61. Towering
over everything is a bright and shiny 747-
200B Jumbo (adult/child/family $19/10/45;
museum & jumbo tours $34/18/75, wing walks
adult/child $85/55; h tours 9.30am, 11am, 1pm &
3pm), whose wings you can walk (bookings
essential).
T Tours
Kinnon & Co Longreach CRUISE, TOUR
(% 07-4658 1776; www.kinnonandco.com.au; 115a
Eagle St) The main tour operator in Long-
reach runs a sunset cruise on the Thom-
son River, followed by dinner under the
stars and campfire entertainment (adult/
child/family $75/50/225). The Cobb & Co
‘Gallop thru the Scrub’ (adult/child/family
$79/52/236) combines stagecoaching with a
theatre show, lunch and a film.
Outback Aussie Tours TOUR, TRAIN
(% 07-4658 3000; www.oat.net.au; Landsborough
Hwy) On the railway platform, Outback offers
a variety of multiday tours from the five-day
Longreach and Winton tour (from $1699) to
outback garden tours and rail journeys.
4 Sleeping & Eating
Eagle St has a number of pubs with good,
cheap meals.
Longreach Tourist Park CAMPGROUND $
(% 07-4658 1781; www.longreachtouristpark.com.
au; 12 Thrush Rd; unpowered/powered sites $30/35,
cabins $98, villa $135; as ) A hot and dusty old
site but friendly management and comfort-
able cabins if the caravan just doesn’t cut it
anymore.
Commercial Hotel PUB, MOTEL $
(% 07-4658 1677; 102 Eagle St; s/d with bathroom
$70/90, without bathroom $28/45, cabins $80-120;
37 7
as ) This hotel has basic but comfy rooms,
and its friendly, bougainvillea-filled beer
garden hosts bargain steak nights.
Old Time Cottage RENTAL HOUSE $$
(% 07-4658 1550; 158 Crane St; r $105; a ) A great
choice for groups and families, this quaint
little corrugated-iron cottage is set in an
attractive garden. Fully furnished, the self-
contained cottage sleeps up to five people.
Longreach Motor Inn MOTEL $$
(% 07-4658 2322; 84 Galah St; r $124-134; a s )
Huge rooms with corresponding balconies
and professional staff are the features of this
popular motel on the edge of the shopping
strip. The gated pool and shady garden kill
an afternoon with ease. The on-site restau-
rant, Harry’s (mains $20 to $30), is the best
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M
in Longreach.
Eagle’s Nest Bar & Grill MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(110 Eagle St; meals $20-33; h 11am-9pm Wed-Sun,
8am-8pm Sat & Sun) Great for breakfast on
weekends.
88 Information
There’s a Visitor Information Centre (% 07-
4658 3555; 99 Eagle St; h 8.30am-5pm Mon-
Fri, 9am-noon Sat & Sun, closed Sat & Sun Oct-
Mar) on Eagle St.
88 Getting There & Away
Greyhound Australia (% 1300 473 946; www.
greyhound.com.au) has a daily bus service to
Brisbane ($169, 18 hours) via Charleville ($64,
6¾ hours) and Mt Isa via Winton and Cloncurry. O ututback
To
Buses stop behind the Commercial Hotel.
Paradise Coaches (% 1300 300 156; www.para-
Isa
r s to C h a r l e v i l l e
disecoaches.com.au) makes the twice-weekly
run to Rockhampton, returning via Emerald.
Buses stop at Outback Aussie Tours next to the
train station.
Queensland Rail (% 1300 131 722; www.travel-
train.com.au) operates the twice-weekly Spirit
of the Outback service between Longreach and
Brisbane via Rockhampton.
Barcaldine
POP 1500
Barcaldine (Bar-call-din) is a colourful little
pub town at the junction of the Landsbor-
ough and Capricorn Hwys (Rte 66), 108km
east of Longreach.
The town gained a place in Australian
history in 1891 when it became the head-
quarters of a major shearers’ strike. The
confrontation led to the formation of the
378

THE DINOSAUR TRAIL

About 95 million years ago – give or take a few million – a herd of small dinosaurs got
spooked by a predator and scattered. The resulting stampede left thousands of foot-
prints in the stream bed, which nature remarkably conspired to fossilise and preserve.
The Lark Quarry Dinosaur Trackways (% 07-4657 1188; www.dinosaurtrackways.com.
au; guided 55min tours adult/child $11/6; h tours 10am, noon & 2pm), 110km southwest of
Winton, is outback Queensland’s mini Jurassic Park, where you can see the remnants of
the prehistoric stampede. Protected by a sheltered walkway, the site can only be visited
by guided tour. There are no facilities to stay (or eat), but it’s a well-signposted drive on
the unsealed but well-maintained Winton–Jundah road, suitable for 2WD vehicles in the
Dry. Contact the Waltzing Matilda Centre (p376) at Winton to book tours.
The Australian Age of Dinosaurs (% 07-4657 0778; http://aaodl.com; guided tours
adult/child $22/11; h 8.30am-5pm, tours 9am, 11am, 1pm & 3pm) is a fascinating interactive
research museum housed on a local cattle station atop a rugged plateau offering spec-
tacular views. Fossil enthusiasts can book in advance for a day ($60) or a week’s worth
of bone preparation. To get there, follow the Landsborough Hwy 15km east of Winton
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C

(about 20 minutes’ drive).

Australian Workers’ Party, which is now
the Australian Labor Party. The organisers’
meeting place was the Tree of Knowledge,
a ghost gum planted near the train station
that long stood as a monument to workers
and their rights. It was tragically poisoned
in 2006 but a radical new monument now
raises plenty of political ire.
The original inhabitants of Barcaldine
were the Inningai, who ‘disappeared’ soon
after explorer Thomas Mitchell arrived in
1824.
1 Sights & Activities
oTree of Knowledge Memorial MEMORIAL
O ih
S
tour to local Aboriginal rock-art sites, lava
caves and cattle stations.
4 Sleeping & Eating
Blacksmith’s Cottage COTTAGE $
(% 07-4651 1724; 7 Elm St; d/tr/q $70/80/90)
The tiny wood-and-tin Blacksmith’s Cottage
dates from the late 19th century and is filled
with antiques and quirky knick-knacks.
Barcaldine Country Motor Inn MOTEL $
(% 07-4651 1488; 1 Box St; s/d $89/99; a ) The
very homely rooms here are well presented,
cool and clean. It’s just around the corner
from the main street’s iconic pubs.

This $5m contemporary art installation – 3ls Bar & Bistro PUB FOOD $$
uga
tback

labelled by one disgruntled local as Ms Gil- (mains $15-25) Liars, larrikins and legends
hrts

lard’s ‘upside down milk crate’ – is best seen

lev

revel in the rustic, open-shed restaurant

at night when dappled light filters through
&i lAct

with wooden bench tables and stockmen’s

the wooden wind chimes. Love it or not, it ropes and branding irons on the walls. Shut
le ivities

certainly makes art critics of the pubs’ pa-
trons across the road.
Australian Workers ¨
Heritage Centre MUSEUM
(% 07-4651 2422; www.australianworkersher-
itagecentre.com.au; Ash St; adult/child/family
$12/7.50/28; h 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm
Sun) This centre provides a rundown on
Australian social, political and industrial
movements, and features the Australian Bi-
centennial Theatre.
Artesian Country Tours TOUR
(% 07-4651 2211; www.artesiancountrytours.com.
au; adult/child $145/65; h Wed & Sat, weather
permitting) Runs a highly regarded historical
up and eat your steak, mate.
88 Information
The Visitor Information Centre (% 07-4651
1724; Oak St) is next to the train station.
Charleville
POP 3728
Lying 760km west of Brisbane, Charleville is
the grand old dame of central Queensland
and the largest town in Mulga country. Due
largely to its prime locale on the Warrego
River, the town was an important centre for
early explorers – Cobb & Co had its largest
coach-making factory here – but the town

has maintained its prosperity as a major
Australian wool centre.
Visitors can gain a spectacular view of
the night sky via a high-powered telescope
and an expert guide at the Cosmos Centre
(% 07-4654 3057; www.cosmoscentre.com; single/
family $7/21, night observatory sessions adult/
child/family$27/18/65; h 10am-4pm, observatory
7.30pm). The 90-minute sessions start soon
after sunset. The centre lies 2km south of
town, off Airport Dr.
Charleville’s QPWS runs a captive-
breeding program for the endangered bilby
called the Bilby Experience (07-4654 4717; 1
Park St; admission $5; h Apr-Oct). Book at the
Cosmos Centre.
If you’re planning an overnight stay,
there’s the Hotel Corones (% 07-4654 1022;
33 Wills St; r $40-95; a ). Bypass the motel
rooms in favour of the Corones’ resurrect-
ed upstairs interior where rooms feature
fireplaces, leadlight windows and elegant
Australian antiques. You can eat in the gran-
diose dining room (mains $15 to $20), or
the public bar (mains $10 to $12) with the
riff-raff.
The visitor information centre (%07-4654
3057; Sturt St);is on the southeast side of
town.
T he Channel Country
You wanted outback, did ya? Well, here it is,
mate – miles and bloody square miles of it!
The Channel Country is an unforgiving, ee-
rily empty region where red-sand hills, the
odd wildflower and strange luminous phe-
nomena run across prime beef-grazing land.
The channels are formed by water rushing
south from the summer monsoons to fill the
Georgina, Hamilton and Diamantina Riv-
ers and Cooper Creek. Avoid the summer
months (October to April), unless you go for
searing heat and dust.
88 Getting There & Around
There are no train or bus services in the Channel
Country, and the closest car rental is in Mt Isa.
Fools perish out here; roads are poorly marked
and getting lost is easy. In fact, it’s required that
you write your name, destination and expected
date of arrival on a blackboard at the station
where you start. Some roads from the east and
north to the fringes of the Channel Country
are sealed, but between October and May even
these can be cut off when dirt roads become
quagmires. Visiting this area requires a sturdy
vehicle (a 4WD if you want to get off the beaten
37 9
track) with decent clearance. Always carry
plenty of drinking water and petrol.
The main road through this area is the Diaman-
tina Developmental Rd. It runs south from Mt Isa
through Boulia to Bedourie, then east through
Windorah and Quilpie to Charleville. It’s a long
and lonely 1340km along mostly sealed road,
though some sections are single lane bitumen
(pull over for the road trains). Take extra caution
when driving at dusk, when the warm road at-
tracts wild camels and kangaroos.
Mt Isa to Boulia
It’s around 300km of sealed road from Mt
Isa south to Boulia, and the only facilities
along the route are at Dajarra, which has a
pub and a roadhouse.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef T
Boulia
POP 300
The unofficial ‘capital’ of the Channel Coun-
try is a neat little outpost on the cusp of the
great Simpson Desert. It’s from here that the
world’s longest mail run comes to an end,
some 3000km from Port Augusta in South
Australia. In mid-July, Boulia hosts Austral-
ia’s premier camel-racing event, the Desert
Sands Camel Races.
The most famous residents of Boulia are
the mysterious Min Min Lights, a supposedly
natural phenomenon that occurs when the
temperature plummets after dark and erratic
lights appear on the unusually flat horizon.
They’re out there, perhaps, or at least
there’s sci-fi gadgetry and eerie lighting in an
Oh
G
hourly ‘alien’ show at the Min Min Encoun-
eutt
etback
ter (%07-4746 3386; Herbert St; adult/child/
Ci h
family $15.60/12.50/36.50; h8.30am-5pm Mon-
ng
ann
Fri, 8am-5pm Sat & Sun). Doubling as the in-
T heelr C
formation centre, this is classic travel kitsch.
The Stone House Museum (cnr Pituri
e o&uAnt
& Hamilton Sts; adult/child $5/3; h 8am-noon &
1-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat & Sun) has sheds
r oru
full of outback stuff, space junk, local his-
tory, Aboriginal artefacts and the preserved
y nd
1888 home of the pioneering Jones family
(the Stone House).
The best place to sleep is the Desert
Sands Motel (% 07-4746 3000; www.desert-
sandsmotel.com.au; Herbert St; s/d $115/125; a ),
with modern and spacious units.
The sealed Kennedy Developmental Rd
(Rte 62) runs east from Boulia, 369km to
Winton. The only stop along the way is Mid-
dleton, 175km from Boulia, where there’s a
pub and fuel.
3 80

BIRDSVILLE, QUILPIE & AROUND

The Birdsville Developmental Rd heads east from Birdsville, meeting the Diamantina
Developmental Rd after 277km of rough gravel and sand. Motorists must carry enough
fuel and water to cover the 395km to the nearest town of Windorah.
Just west of Cooper Creek, Windorah has a pub, a general store and a basic caravan
park. The Western Star Hotel (% 07-4656 3166; www.westernstarhotel.com.au; 15 Albert
St; pub s/d $50/60, motel s/d $90/100; a ), originally built in 1878, is a terrific country pub
with delicious food and excellent motel units in a separate building. Yabbie races are
staged here on the Wednesday before the Birdsville Races.
Quilpie is an opal-mining town and the railhead from which cattle are sent to the coast.
South of Quilpie and west of Cunnamulla are the remote Yowah Opal Fields and the
town of Eulo, which co-hosts the World Lizard Racing Championships with Cunna-
mulla in late August. Thargomindah, 130km west of Eulo, has a couple of motels and
a guesthouse. Noccundra, another 145km further west, has just one hotel supplying
basic accommodation, meals and fuel. If you have a 4WD you can continue west to In-
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef Isa

namincka, in SA, on the rough and stony Strzelecki Track, via the site of the famous Dig
Tree, where William Brahe buried provisions during the ill-fated Burke and Wills expedi-
tion in 1860–61.

At the Birdsville Studio (% 07-4656 3221;

Bedourie
POP 120
From Boulia it’s 200km of mainly unsealed
road south to Bedourie, the administrative
centre for the huge Diamantina Shire Coun-
cil. A big attraction is the free public swim-
ming pool and artesian spa.
The charming adobe-brick Bedourie¨
Hotel (% 07-4746 1201; www.bedouriehotel.com;
Herbert St; r from $88; a ) was built in the
1880s and is a social hub for the region.
There are very cosy motel rooms out the
back. Monstrous plates of steak and barra-
O eutt
G
www.birdsvillestudio.com.au; Graham St; h 9am-
10pm Jun-Sep), you can inspect and buy out-
back art by exceptional local artist Wolfgang
John.
Standing strong in sandstone since 1884
is the much-loved Birdsville Hotel (% 07-
4656 3244; www.theoutback.com.au; Adelaide St;
s/d $140/160; a ). When you’ve had a gutful,
the motel-style units are tasteful and spa-
cious, while the restaurant (mains $15 to 30)
is surprisingly slick.
Birdsville Track

mundi are served in the dining room.

There’s also a caravan park and comfort- The 517km Birdsville Track stretches south
tback
to

able motel units at the Simpson Desert of Birdsville to Maree in SA, taking a deso-
i ng

late course between the Simpson Desert to

B oTuhlei r

Oasis (% 07-4746 1291; 1 Herbert St; unpowered/

powered sites free/$26, cabins $103-139, motel r the west and Sturt Stony Desert to the east.
$114-156; a ), a roadhouse with fuel, a super- The first stretch from Birdsville has two al-
a e & A r o u nd

market and a restaurant.
Birdsville
POP 120
Off-the-beaten-track travellers can’t claim
the title until they visit Birdsville, an iconic
Australian settlement on the fringe of the
Simpson Desert, and Queensland’s most re-
mote ‘town’.
During the first weekend in September,
the annual Birdsville Cup (www.birdsville­
races.com) horse races draw up to 7000 fans
from all over the country to drink, dance
and gamble for three dusty days. Parking is
free for all light aircraft.
ternative routes, but only the longer, more
easterly Outside Track is open these days.
Before tackling the track, it’s a good idea to
keep friends or relatives informed of your
movements so they can notify the authori-
ties should you fail to report in on time.
Check in at the Wirrarri Centre (% 07-
4656 3300) to learn the lay of the road, stock
up on fuel and snacks, and email someone
you wish was here.
Simpson Desert National Park
The waterless Simpson Desert occupies a
massive 200,000 sq km of central Australia

and stretches across the Queensland, NT
and SA borders. The Queensland section, in
the state’s far southwestern corner, is pro-
tected as the 10,000-sq-km Simpson Desert
National Park, and is a remote, arid land-
scape of high red sand dunes, spinifex and
cane grass.
While conventional vehicles can just
about tackle the Birdsville Track in dry con-
ditions, the Simpson crossing requires a
4WD and far more preparation. Crossings
should only be undertaken by parties of at
least two 4WD vehicles equipped with suit-
able communications (such as an EPIRB)
to call for help if necessary. Alternatively,
you can hire a satellite phone from Birds-
ville police (% 07-4656 3220) and return it to
Maree police (% 08-8675 8346) in SA.
Permits are required to camp anywhere
in the park and can be obtained online
(through www.qld.gov.au/camping) or at
the QPWS (% 07-4650 1990) in Birdsville or
Longreach, and Birdsville’s service stations.
You also need a separate permit to travel
into the SA parks, and these are available
through the South Australian National
Parks & Wildlife Service (% 1800 816 078).
WHITSUNDAY COAST
Opal-jade waters and white sandy beaches
fringe the forested domes of these ‘drowned’
mountains where you can camp in secluded
bays as a modern-day castaway, laze in a
tropical island resort, snorkel, dive or set sail
through this stunning archipelago. Beneath
the shimmering seas are swarms of tropi-
cal fish and the world’s largest coral garden
in the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park. The
gateway to the islands, Airlie Beach, is a
vibrant backpacker hub with a throbbing
nightlife.
A little north are the natural unspoilt
coastal gems of Hydeaway Bay and Cape
Gloucester. South of Airlie is lush green hin-
terland at Finch Hatton Gorge and Eungella
National Park where platypuses play in the
wild.
Mackay
POP 85,399
An attractive country coastal town with art-
deco buildings and national parks nearby,
Mackay doesn’t quite make the tourist hit-
381
list. Instead, it caters more to the surround-
ing agricultural and mining industries.
Located 6.5km northeast of the centre, the
marina is a pleasant place to dine among
the boating fraternity, while the northern
beaches are largely unspoilt and empty.
1 Sights & Activities
Mackay’s impressive art-deco architecture
owes much to a devastating cyclone in 1918,
which flattened many of the town’s build-
ings. Enthusiasts should pick up a copy of
Art Deco Mackay from the town hall visitor
information centre.
There are good views over the harbour
from Mt Basset Lookout and at Rotary
Lookout in North Mackay.
Some fine beaches are within a short walk
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M
of the marina, but Mackay’s best beaches,
Blacks Beach, Eimeo and Bucasia, are
about 16km north of town.
Artspace Mackay GALLERY
(% 07-4957 1775; www.artspacemackay.com.au;
Gordon St; h 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) F Upholds
the strong reputation of regional Queens-
land art galleries, showcasing local and vis-
iting works on the edge of the civic precinct.
Graze at Foodspace (h 9am-3pm Tue-Sun),
the licensed cafe on site.
Mackay Regional ¨
Botanical Gardens GARDENS
(Lagoon St) Three kilometres south of the city
centre is this little piece of floral tropicana.
Bluewater Lagoon LAGOON
Wiackay
S
(h 9am-5.45pm) F The pleasant artificial
hgihts
lagoon near Caneland Shopping Centre has
tsu nday
water fountains, water slides, grassed picnic
areas and a cafe.
& ActCi voast
T Tours
Beyond Mackay’s sugar-cane sea are a su-
ities
perb rainforest and national park.
Reeforest Adventure Tours CULTURAL TOUR
(% 1800 500 353; www.reeforest.com) Offers a
wide range of tours, including a platypus
and rainforest visit ($115) and trips to the
Farleigh Sugar Mill ($22).
Farleigh Sugar Mill TOUR
(% 07-4959 8360; 2hr tours per person $22; h 9am,
11am & 1pm Jun-Nov) In the cane-crushing
season you can see how the sweet crystals
are made. The mill is 10km northwest of
Mackay.
3 82

Whitsunday Coast 0
0
20 km
12 miles

Gloucester
Island Saddleback
Bowen Hydeaway Island
Bay Hayman
Stone Dingo Olden
Ayr Island Beach Island Island
(100km) Cape Double Hook
Gloucester Armit
A1 Island Cone Island Island
Earlando Grassy Daydream South Great Barrier Reef
Island Molle Marine Park
Island (Whitsunday Group)
Island
Airlie Whitsunday
Beach Island
Cannonvale Shute Whitehaven
Harbour Beach
Whitsunday
Long
Cedar Creek Airport Island Hamilton
Falls Island CORAL
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M

Conway Shaw
Proserpine Island SEA
National Lindeman
Park Island
Conway
A1

Thomas Island
Laguna
Whitsundays
Blacksmith
Island
Midge Repulse Island Linne Island
Point
Bloomsbury Goldsmith Tinsmith Island
Island
Carlisle
Island
Rabbit
Island
Cameron's Pocket Newry Island Brampton
Bro

Island
Cape
ken

Calen Seaforth
A1
Hillsborough
National Park
River

Eungella Mt Ossa
National
Park
Finch Bucasia Eimeo
Hatton Kuttabul
FWeackay

Gorge Blacks
hst

Yakapari Beach Slade Point

i ts

r
nee
i va

Eungella Marian
Pio alley
u nday

Finch V 70
Mackay
l s & Ev

Hatton Mirani Walkerston

Bo

Hay Point
C oast

Homebush
we

Eton Br
n

uc
e nts

e
River
Hwy

Hwy

s Sarina
Ne

wn Sarina
Do Beach
bo
Creek

ak

A1
Elphinstone Rockhampton
Pe

70 (290km)

z Festivals & Events 4 Sleeping

Wintermoon Folk Festival MUSIC Hotels in Mackay can fill up quickly due to a
(% 07-4958 8390; www.wintermoonfestival.com; steady influx of mine workers – book ahead.
day tickets adult/child $90/free) Each year
around May this folk festival is held at Cam- Stoney Creek Farmstay FARM STAY $

eron’s Pocket, 70km north of Mackay. (% 07-4954 1177; www.stoneycreekfarmstay.com;

Peak Downs Hwy; dm/cottage $25/145) S Down
 383
a rough track behind the Peak Downs Hwy town (entrepreneur wanted!) so the beds are
is this tremendous little farm stay overseen very cheap and just clean enough. Enjoy the
by a handyman par excellence. You can stay massive rooftop balcony and the location on
at a secluded cottage or the charismatic Dead the doorstep of clubs and restaurants.
Horse Hostel. Three-hour horse rides cost $95
per person. Owners can pick you up if you Coral Sands Motel MOTEL $$

ring ahead (minimum of two people). Will- (% 07-4951 1244; www.coralsandsmotel.com.au;

ing Workers on Organic Farms (WWOOFers) 44 Macalister St; r $130-165; a W s ) Terrific
welcome. It’s 32km south of Mackay. little place in the heart of the action with
friendly management and tropical kitsch
Gecko’s Rest HOSTEL $ motel rooms.
(% 07-4944 1230; www.geckosrest.com.au; 34
Sydney St; dm/d/f $24/55/90; ai ) Gecko’s is Ocean Resort Village RESORT $$

rough as guts and bursting with mine work- (% 1800 075 144; www.oceanresortvillage.com.au; 5
ers on the prowl. It’s also the only hostel in Bridge Rd; apt $95-105, 2-bedroom apt $140; as )

Mackay

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Sydney

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A B C D

Mackay
æ Sights
1 Artspace Mackay.................................... B3
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
2 Bluewater Lagoon....................................B1
ÿ Sleeping
3 Coral Sands Motel .................................. C2
4 Gecko's Rest............................................ D2
5 Lanai Riverside Apartments...................B1
6 Mackay Grande Suites........................... C2
7 Mid City Motor Inn ...................................C1
8 Quest ........................................................ C2
ú Eating
9 Austral Hotel ............................................B2
10 Bollywood Bites.......................................C2
11 Burp Eat Drink .........................................D2
Foodspace.........................................(see 1)
12 Global Burgers.........................................D3
13 Kevin's Place............................................D2
14 Montezuma's ...........................................C2
15 Oscar's on Sydney ..................................D3
û Drinking & Nightlife
16 Gordi's Cafe & Bar...................................C2
17 Mainstreet ................................................C2
18 Tryst ..........................................................C2
384

SAILING THE WHITSUNDAYS

Aside from day trips, most overnight sailing packages are for three days and two nights
or two days and two nights. Check what you pay for. Some companies set sail in the af-
ternoon of the first day and return by mid-morning of the last, while others set out early
and return late. Be sure what you’re committing to – don’t set sail on a party boat if you’re
after a chilled-out cruise. If you’re flexible with dates, last-minute stand-by rates can con-
siderably reduce the price, and you’ll also have a better idea of weather conditions.
Most vessels offer snorkelling on the fringing reefs (the reefs around the islands). The
softer coral here is often more colourful and abundant than what you see on the outer
reef. Check if snorkel equipment, stinger suits and reef taxes are included in the pack-
age. Diving usually costs extra.
Once you’ve decided what suits, book at one of the many booking agencies in town
such as Whitsundays Central Reservation Centre (p392) or a management company
such as Whitsunday Sailing Adventures (% 07-4940 2000; www.whitsundaysailing.
com; Shute Harbour Rd) or Explore Whitsundays (% 07-4946 5782; www.explorewhitsun-
days.com; 4 The Esplanade).
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M

Some of the recommended sailing trips:

¨¨Camira (day trips $175) Run by Cruise Whitsundays (p389) one of the world’s fastest
commercial sailing catamarans is now a lilac-coloured Whitsunday icon. This good-
value day trip includes Whitehaven Beach, snorkelling, morning and afternoon tea, a
barbecue lunch and all refreshments (including wine and beer).
¨¨SV Domino (day trip $150) A co-op of local operators takes a maximum of eight
guests to Bali Hai island, a little-visited ‘secret’ of the Whitsundays. Includes lunch and a
good two-hour snorkel.
¨¨Whitehaven Xpress (day trip $160) Locally owned and operated for over a decade,
the Xpress rivals the bigger operators for its Hill Inlet and Whitehaven tours.
¨¨Wings 2 (two-day-and-two-night trips from $475) Comfortable, well-maintained fast
cat for those wanting to sail, dive and make new friends.
¨¨Solway Lass (three-day-and-three-night trips from $559) Get more bang for your
buck. You get a full three days on this 28m tall ship – the only authentic tall ship in Airlie
Beach. It’s a popular choice for backpackers.
¨¨Atlantic Clipper (two-day-and-two-night trips from $455) Young, beautiful and
boozy crowd and no escaping the antics. Snorkelling (or recovering) on Langford Island
Wlackay
S

is a highlight.
heiets
p iung

Crewing
nday C oast

Adventurous types might see the ‘Crew Wanted’ ads posted in backpackers or at
the marina and yacht club in Airlie Beach (p386) and dream of hitching a ride on the
high seas. In return for a free bunk, meals, and a sailing adventure you get to hoist the
mainsail, take the helm, and clean the head. You could have the experience of a lifetime
– whether good or bad depends on the vessel, skipper, other crew members (if any)
and your own attitude. Think about being stuck with someone you don’t know on a 10m
boat, several kilometres from shore, before you actually find yourself there.

This is a good-value beachside resort compris- timer in an enviable riverside locale opposite
ing 34 self-contained apartments set amid a school. Good value by the city standard.
lush, tropical gardens. The cool, shady setting
has two pools, barbecue areas and half-court Mackay Grande Suites HOTEL $$$

tennis. It’s located 4km southeast of the town
centre (take Gordon to Goldsmith to Bridge).
Mid City Motor Inn MOTEL $$
(% 07-4951 1666; stay@midcitymotel.com.au; 2
Macalister St; r $114-180; aiWs ) A real old-
(% 07-4969 1000; www.mackaygrandsuites.com;
9 Gregory St; r from $169; p a s ) Downtown
Mackay finally got itself a posh hotel and
the professional service to match. These cen-
trally located suites may have delusions of
grandeur but they are nonetheless comfort-

able and larger than most. The beds are very
firm and the bathrooms expansive.
Clarion Hotel ¨
Mackay Marina LUXURY HOTEL $$$
(% 07-4955 9400; www.mackaymarinahotel.com;
Mulherin Dr; d $189-275; a i W s ) This wel-
coming luxury hotel down at the peaceful
marina precinct has an excellent on-site
restaurant and enormous swimming pool.
It’s located 6.5km northeast of the centre.
(Take Sydney St north across the Forgan
Bridge.)
Quest APARTMENT $$$
(% 07-4829 3500; www.questmackay.com.au; 38
Macalister St; studios $195, 1-/2-bedroom apts from
$220/350; pais ) A little pokey for the
price, these Quest apartments are still very
modern and well-maintained. The kitchen-
ettes are only for basic food preparation and
views from most rooms are of other rooms.
The pool is the biggest tick.
Lanai Riverside Apartments APARTMENT $$$
(% 07-4957 4401; www.lanaiapartments.com.au;
20 River St; r from $220; pas ) Plum location
by the river and the interiors are shiny and
new, though management works off-site, so
the day-to-day housekeeping can be a little
slack.
5 Eating
oComet Coffee CAFE $
(% 0423 420 195; 43 Victoria St; sandwiches $7-9;
h 5.30am-2.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat &Sun)
Our favourite coffee in Mackay is served in
an old garage in the quiet end of town. Great
magazine collection and couch-lounging
section, and delicious muffins.
Global Burgers BURGERS $
(% 07-4951 4555; Sydney St; burgers $12-15;
h lunch & dinner) Mackay’s branch of this
small burger chain heaves with custom dai-
ly. The salads are also worth a run.
Kevin’s Place ASIAN $$
(% 07-4953 5835; cnr Victoria & Wood Sts; mains
$18-25; h lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinner Sat) Fast-
paced faux-colonial Singaporean restaurant
covered in palm fronds and serviced by
young staff who bark out orders for sizzling
hawker food all day and half the night.
Bollywood Bites INDIAN $$
(% 07-4957 8785; 141 Victoria St; mains $12-25;
h lunch & dinner; av ) This is a fun and au-
thentic little curry house on a brightly lit
385
corner block. The usual Indian classics reign
with loads of vegetarian options.
Montezuma’s MEXICAN $$
(% 07-4944 1214; 94 Wood St; mains $12-24;
h lunch & dinner) Mexican-influenced restau-
rant with cosy atmosphere and snug booths.
Austral Hotel PUB $$
(% 07-4951 3288; 189 Victoria St; mains $17-31,
steaks $23-41; h lunch & dinner) Overpriced but
very reliable pub fare and perfect atmos-
phere for families.
Oscar’s on Sydney FUSION $$
(% 07-4944 0173; cnr Sydney & Gordon Sts; mains
$10-21; h breakfast & lunch) A real favourite
with the Mackay coffee set. The delicious
poffertjes (authentic Dutch pancakes with
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M
traditional toppings) are a hit.
Burp Eat Drink MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$$
(% 07-4951 3546; 86 Wood St; mains $32-40;
h lunch & dinner Tue-Fri, dinner Sat) Burp is a
seriously flavoursome high-end joint that
belies its casual tropical locale with a so-
phisticated shared menu. Celebrity-chef-in-
the-making Adrian Connors presides over
dishes such as white anchovies in lemon
and honey-glazed duck. It gets noisy and
busy but that’s because it’s good.
6 Drinking & Nightlife
Gordi’s Cafe & Bar PUB
(85 Victoria St) Gordi’s is a street-side water-
ing hole with a reputation as the unrivalled
pre-party or post-work meeting place.
W ackay
Eat
Tryst
h iits
CLUB
(99 Victoria St; h 10pm-3am) Tryst hosts sur-
ngu nday C oast
prisingly classy underground dance music
parties. Catch some handpicked maestros of
the scene educating the masses.
Satchmo’s at the Reef BAR
(Mulherin Dr) A classy wine-and-tapas bar full
of boaties – it’s down at the marina – and
featuring live music on Sunday afternoon.
Sails Sports Bar BAR
(Mulherin Dr) This themed bar on the marina
can get rowdy some nights, but it maintains
the Sunday arvo tradition with live music
and plenty of drink deals.
Mainstreet CLUB
(148 Victoria St; h Thu-Sat) A staple on the ‘big
night out’ itinerary for locals and seasonal
workers, with live music and DJs.
3 86
88 Information
Mackay Queensland Parks & Wildlife Service
(QPWS; % 07-4944 7800; www.derm.qld.gov.
au; 30 Tennyson St)
Mackay Visitor Centre (% 07-4944 5888;
www.mackayregion.com; 320 Nebo Rd; h 9am-
5pm Mon, 8.30am-5pm Tue-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat
& Sun) About 3km south of the centre. Internet
access.
QPWS office (% 07-4944 7800; fax 07-4944
7811; cnr Wood & River Sts)
Town Hall Visitor Information Centre (% 07-
4951 4803; townhall@mackayregion.com; 63
Sydney St; h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat &
Sun) Also has internet access.
88 Getting There & Around
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef A
AIR
The airport is about 3km south of the centre.
Jetstar (% 13 15 38; www.jetstar.com.au) and
Virgin Australia (% 13 67 89; www.virginaus-
tralia.com) fly to/from Brisbane; Tiger Airways
(% 03-9999 2888; www.tigerairways.com.au)
flies to/from Melbourne. Qantas (% 13 13 13;
www.qantas.com.au) has direct flights most
days between Mackay and Brisbane, Rockhamp-
ton and Townsville.
BUS
Buses stop at the Mackay Bus Terminal
(% 07-4944 2144; cnr Victoria & Macalister Sts;
h 7am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat), where tickets
can also be booked. Greyhound Australia (% 13
20 30; www.greyhound.com.au) and Premier
Motor Service (% 13 34 10; www.premierms.
com.au) travel up and down the coast between
Brisbane ($207, 17 hours) and Cairns ($152, 13
Wihr
In
hours), stopping in Mackay.
foilts
TAXI
iremat
uBnday
Mackay Taxis (% 13 10 08) will get you to the
e ac
airport, marina or train station for about $25.
ioh
n C oast
TRAIN
The Queensland Rail (% 1300 13 17 22; www.
traveltrain.com.au) Tilt Train connects Mackay
with Brisbane ($240, 13 hours), Townsville
($110, 5½ hours) and Cairns ($190, 12 hours).
The slower Sunlander does the same: Brisbane
(economy seat/sleeper $160/220, 17 hours).
The train station is at Paget, 5km south of the
city centre.
A irlie Beach
POP 3000
Airlie is the kind of town where human-
ity celebrates its close proximity to natural
beauty by partying very hard. A relatively
tiny town that can at times feel as busy as
Brisbane, Airlie draws a stream of budget
travellers, the sailing fraternity (who con-
verge here for the mainland conveniences),
families (who flock to the fine restaurants
and boutique hotels) and shrewd, often
short-sighted developers.
Abel Point Marina is about 1km west
along a pleasant boardwalk, and Shute Har-
bour is about 12km east. The new Port of
Airlie precinct had added an element of big
city style.
2 Activities
Sailing is the leisure activity of choice here,
in all its nautical variations. There are nu-
merous sailing tours, but if you’ve got salt
water in your veins, a bareboat charter
might be more your style. Expect to pay be-
tween $500 and $800 a day in high season
(September to January) for a yacht that will
comfortably sleep four to six people. Airlie
Beach is also a great place to learn to sail.
Air Whitsunday Seaplanes SCENIC FLIGHTS
(% 07-4946 9111; www.airwhitsunday.com.au)
This outfit offers three-hour Reef Adven-
tures (adult/child $360/280), a Whitehaven
experience ($240/210) and the signature
four-hour Panorama Tour ($475/390) where
you fly to Hardy Lagoon to snorkel or ride
a semi­submersible, then fly to Whitehaven
Beach for a picnic lunch. It also runs day
trips to exclusive Hayman Island ($245).
Charter Yachts Australia SAILING CHARTER
(% 1800 639 520; www.cya.com.au; Abel Point Ma-
rina) An excellent group to arrange your DIY
yachting experience in the Whitsundays.
Yachts from $500 per night, five night mini-
mum.
Whitsunday Escape SAILING CHARTER
(% 1800 075 145; www.whitsundayescape.com; Abel
Point Marina) Specialises in bareboat charters –
charter boats that come without a skipper
or crew, where you would skipper the boat
yourself. The outfit can provide a sail guide,
provisions and a cook if requested.
Scamper CAMPING
(www.destinationairliebeach.com.au) Provides is-
land camping with a choice from dozens of
island locations.
Island Transfers CAMPING
(% 07-4967 7355; www.islandtransfers.com)
Transfers to a campsite of your choice on
Whitsunday Island, Hook Island or one of
the Molle Islands.
666
3 87

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Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef A

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Island Gateway Caravan Resort (1.5km);

The Summit Flametree Tourist Village (6.5km):

D
D

(200m) Whitsunday Airport (6.5km)

A B C D

Airlie Beach
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
1 Whitsunday Dive Adventures................ D2
2 Whitsunday Marine Academy............... C2
3 Whitsunday Sailing Club.........................D1
ÿ Sleeping
4 Airlie Beach Hotel ................................... D2
5 Airlie Beach YHA..................................... C2
15 Whitsundays Central
Reservation Centre ..............................B2
ú Eating
16 Airlie Supermarket..................................C2
Deja Vu.............................................(see 12)
17 Denman Cellars Beer Cafe.....................D3
18 Fish D'vine ................................................D2
Wihrilts
Act

6 Airlie Waterfront B&B .............................B1 19 Mr Bones ..................................................B2

i iveiutBnday

7 Base Airlie Beach Resort ....................... B2 20 Village Cafe ..............................................B2

8 Beaches Backpackers............................ B2 Whitsunday Sailing Club ................ (see 3)
i e ac

9 Magnums Backpackers ......................... C2

s h C oast

10 Nomads Backpackers............................ B2 û Drinking & Nightlife

11 Sunlit Waters........................................... A2 Magnum's......................................... (see 9)
12 Water's Edge Resort............................... C3 21 Mama Africa.............................................B2
13 Waterview ................................................ A2 22 Paddy's Shenanigans .............................B2
14 Whitsunday Organic B&B...................... A2 23 Uber...........................................................B2

Whitsunday Rent A Yacht SAILING CHARTER
(% 1800 075 000; www.rentayacht.com.au; Trinity
Jetty, Shute Harbour) Provides skipper-yourself
cruises with a minimum charter period of
five nights.
Whitsunday ¨
Marine Academy SAILING LESSONS
(% 1800 810 116; www.explorewhitsundays.com; 4
The Esplanade) Run by Explore Whitsundays.
Whitsunday Sailing Club SAILING LESSONS
(% 07-4946 6138; Airlie Point) Runs cruises and
has a calendar of sailing events and learn-
to-sail courses.
Whitsunday Dive ¨
Adventures DIVING, SNORKELLING
(% 07-4948 1239; www.whitsundaydivecentre.com;
303 Shute Harbour Rd) Offers a range of instruc-
tion, including PADI-certified open-water
388

PIONEER VALLEY

Finch Hatton Gorge is a beautiful, secluded riverine gorge located 32km northwest
of Mackay. The turn-off is 1.5km before the township of Finch Hatton. It’s 9km into the
gorge, and the last 3km are on good, unsealed roads, but heavy rain can make access
difficult or impossible. A highly underrated extreme activity is Forest Flying (% 07-4958
3359; www.forestflying.com; rides $60). It’s like virtual monkey play as you skim the rain-
forest canopy in a harness attached to a 340m-long cable. Beware the fruit-bat colony
(August to May). Book ahead.
You can take a relaxed 1.6km rainforest walk to a stunning swimming hole beneath
Araluen Falls, or a 2.6km walking trail to the Wheel of Fire Falls. For a real back-to-
nature experience, stay in the Platypus Bushcamp (% 07-4958 3204; www.bushcamp.
net; Finch Hatton Gorge; camp sites/d $7.50/75). The high-end Rainforest B&B (% 07-4958
3099; www.rainforestbedandbreakfast.com.au; 52 Van Houweninges Rd; cabins $300) adds a
touch of Balinese style to this rainforest retreat. The self-contained cabins at Finch Hat-
ton Gorge Cabins (% 07-4958 3281; www.finchhattongorgecabins.com.au; d $95; a ) are
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef A

quite basic but have wonderful views of the forest. Dine on the large deck while listening
to birdsong at the River Rock Cafe (mains $15-25; h breakfast & lunch Tue-Sun).
Twenty kilometres further along is Eungella National Park (young-gulla). The ‘land
of clouds’ is situated in the Clark Ranges, and reaches 1280m at its zenith. This oldest
and longest stretch of subtropical rainforest in Australia has been cut off from other
rainforest areas for roughly 30,000 years, meaning there’s a whole host of freaky crea-
tures that exist nowhere else, such as the orange-sided skink and the Eungella gastric
brooding frog, which incubates its eggs in its stomach and gives birth by spitting out the
tadpoles!
On the trails between Eungella and Broken River, the real star is the world’s cutest,
most reclusive monotreme (egg-laying mammal). You can be fairly sure of seeing platy-
puses from the viewing platform near the bridge. The best times are immediately after
dawn and at dusk, but you must be patient, as sightings are very rare.
Resident goannas and brush-tailed possums enjoy the lovely Broken River Moun-
tain Resort (% 07-4958 4000; www.brokenrivermr.com.au; d $105-160; a i W s ), which
has cosy cedar cabins, and a wood-finished lounge.
There’s also the QPWS Fern Flat Camping Ground (per person/family $5.15/21),
which is reserved for walk-in campers only, near the (usually unstaffed) QPWS office
Wihruilts
To

(% 07-4958 4552). You need to self-register.

The beautiful little country cafe, Pinnacle Coffee Devine (% 07-4958 5167; Mackay-
ri esuBnday

Eungella Rd, Pinnacle; h 8am-4pm), has a mesmerising view of the canefields.

Buses don’t cover Finch Hatton or Eungella, so you’ll need a car or an organised tour
e ac h C oast

from Mackay.

dive courses ($660). Half-day dive trips cost
$175. Many boat cruises.
Salty Dog Sea Kayaking KAYAKING
(% 07-4946 1388; www.saltydog.com.au; half-/full-
day trips $80/130) Offers guided full-day tours
and kayak rental ($50/70 per half-/full day),
plus longer kayak/camping missions (the
six-day challenge costs $1490). It’s a charm-
ing and healthy way to see the islands.
Skydive Airlie Beach SKYDIVING
(% 07-4946 9115; www.skydiveairliebeach.com.au)
Tandem skydives from $249.
HeliReef SCENIC FLIGHTS
(% 07-4946 9102; www.helireef.com.au) Offers
helicopter flights to the reef and a picnic
lunch on Whitehaven Beach ($349).
T Tours
If snorkelling, lying on the beach or exploring
the rainforests of the Whitsunday Islands ap-
peals, then it’s just a matter of hunting down
the tour that will suit you.
Most cruise operators run out of Abel Point
Marina, but those that run from Shute Har-
bour do pick-ups from Airlie Beach and Can-
nonvale. You can take a bus to Shute Harbour.

Voyager 4 Island Cruise BOAT TOUR
(% 07-4946 5255; www.wiac.com.au; adult/child
$140/80) A good-value day cruise that in-
cludes snorkelling at Hook Island, beach-
combing and swimming at Whitehaven
Beach, and checking out Daydream Island.
You can add a scenic flight for $60.
Cruise Whitsundays BOAT TOUR
(% 07-4946 4662; www.cruisewhitsundays.com)
The biggest operator in town runs speed-
boat trips to the Barrier Reef Marine Base
($210), a pontoon located in Knuckle Reef
Lagoon, where you can snorkel, dive or just
cruise at sea.
Ocean Rafting BOAT TOUR
(% 07-4946 6848; www.oceanrafting.com.au;
adult/child/family $124/81/374) Fast-paced day
tours let you swim at Whitehaven Beach,
view Aboriginal cave paintings at Nara In-
let and snorkel the reef at Mantaray Bay or
Border Island.
Big Fury BOAT TOUR
(% 07-4948 2201; adult/child/family $130/70/350)
Speeds out to Whitehaven Beach on an
open-air sports boat followed by lunch and
then snorkelling at a secluded reef nearby.
Whitsunday Crocodile Safari TOUR
(% 07-4948 3310; www.proserpineecotours.com;
adult/child $120/60 ) Remarkable opportunity
to spend time around crocodiles in the wild,
explore secret estuaries and eat real bush
tucker.
4 Sleeping
Whitsundays Central
Reservation Centre ACCOMMODATION SERVICES
(% 1800 677 119; www.airliebeach.com; 259 Shute
Harbour Rd) To take the hassle out of find-
ing the right accommodation, Whitsundays
Central Reservation Centre can be of enor-
mous assistance.
Bush Village Budget Cabins HOSTEL $
(% 1800 809 256; www.bushvillage.com.au; 2 St
Martins Rd; dm from $30, d $93; ais ) These
boutique backpacker cabins, only 1.5km
west of Airlie, have undergone a revamp and
offer good-value budget accommodation.
Dorms and doubles are in 17 self-contained
cabins set in leafy gardens.
Magnums Backpackers HOSTEL $
(% 1800 624 634; www.magnums.com.au; 366
Shute Harbour Rd; camp sites/van sites $22/24,
dm/d $22/56, cabins per person $24; aiW )
Magnums continues to grow like a beautiful
3 89
noxious weed. The bar-side antics are pretty
full on but luckily the majority of beds are
way down the back in a tropical garden. Be
patient with reception staff as there is seri-
ous demand in high season. The private
rooms are surprisingly quiet.
Backpackers by the Bay HOSTEL $
(% 07-4946 7267, 1800 646 994; www.backpackers-
bythebay.com; 12 Hermitage Dr; dm/d & tw $27/70;
ais ) About a 10-minute walk from town
is this excellent alternative to the frenetic
cluster of hostels downtown. The clientele
are decidedly low-key and the ambience is
perpetuated by strung hammocks, a good
pool and an absence of loud music. The air-
conditioned rooms are very tidy and staff
are very welcoming.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef A
Base Airlie Beach Resort HOSTEL $
(%1800 242 273, 07-4948 2000; www.stayatbase.
com; 336 Shute Harbour Rd; camp site $12.50, dm
from $26, s/d $45/90; paWs) The newish
Base resort is a remarkably cost-effective,
er, base from which to explore the Whit-
sundays. Housed on an impressive patch
of land in among the Airlie hustle, there’s
a small pool (sporting all kinds of mad-
ness when we visited) and the best rooms
at this price we could find. The staff could
smile more but who really wants to work
in the height of summer?
Nomads Backpackers HOSTEL $
(% 07-4999 6600; www.nomadsairliebeach.com;
354 Shute Harbour Rd; dm/d $29/92; a i W s )
Some pleasant grassed areas give this No-
mads branch a slight competitive edge in
Wlihreiletipseiun
S
the budget market. The camping sites in
particular enjoy some shady respite though
Bng
the dorms are fairly primitive. The private
eday
ac h C oa s t
rooms have TV, fridge and kitchenettes. The
communal facilities were filthy when we
visited.
Beaches Backpackers HOSTEL $
(% 1800 636 630; www.beaches.com.au; 356 Shute
Harbour Rd; dm/d $22/70; a i W s ) Warning:
this is a party place. Under no circumstances
should you complain about the relentless
dirge pumping from the bar through your
thin bedroom walls. Your concerns will fall
on deaf ears. Sleep is for the weak. The food
is pretty decent and you will meet fellow ro-
mantics with subliminal ease.
Flametree Tourist Village CARAVAN PARK $
(% 07-4946 9388; www.flametreevillage.com.au;
Shute Harbour Rd; unpowered/powered sites $21/27,
390
cabins from $79; ais ) Spacious sites are
scattered through lovely bird-filled gardens,
and there’s a good camp kitchen and barbe-
cue area. The park is 6.5km west of Airlie.
Airlie Beach YHA HOSTEL $
(% 1800 247 251, 07-4946 6312; airliebeach@
yha.com.au; 394 Shute Harbour Rd; dm $26.50, d
$69.50-77.50; ais ) This central and rea-
sonably quiet YHA outfit is nothing to email
home about in terms of value, but the pool
is above average.
Island Gateway ¨
Caravan Resort CAMPGROUND $
(% 07-4946 6228; www.islandgateway.com.au;
Shute Harbour Rd; unpowered/powered sites
$30/37, cabins $80-135, chalets $145-225;
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef A
a W s ) Large park 1.5km east of Airlie. A
mixture of accommodation options means a
mixed clientele.
oThe Summit APARTMENT $$
(%1800 463 417; www.summitairliebeach.com.
au; 15 Flame Tree Court; 1-/2-bedroom apt from
$160/190; paWs) Nestled high above Air-
lie Beach are these exceptional apartments
with some of the best views of the Whitsun-
days and hinterland. Try to nab one in the
600s. The fittings and furnishings are equal-
ly top notch and the shaded recreation area
by the pool has free wi-fi and a spectacular
outlook.
Waterview APARTMENT $$
(% 07-4948 1748; www.waterviewairliebeach.com.
au; 42 Airlie Cres; studios/1-bedroom units from
$135/149; aW ) An excellent choice for loca-
Wihrilits
Eat
tion and comfort, this boutique accommo-
ng
i e uBnday
dation overlooks the main street and has
gorgeous views of the bay. The rooms are
e ac h C oast
modern, airy and spacious and have kitch-
enettes for self-caterers.
Club Crocodile HOTEL $$
(% 07-4946 7155; www.clubcroc.com.au; d from
$119; p a s ) On the road between Canno-
vale and Airlie Beach is this excellent budget
option that is really popular with domestic
tourists and young families. The Olympic-
sized swimming pool is the hub of the action
and even features a waterfall. How lovely!
Sunlit Waters APARTMENT $$
(% 07-4946 6352; www.sunlitwaters.com; 20 Air-
lie Cres; studios from $92, 1-bedroom apt $115;
a s ) One of the best-value options in Airlie
Beach, these large studios have everything
you could want, including a self-contained
kitchenette and stunning views from the
long balconies.
Airlie Beach Hotel HOTEL $$
(% 1800 466 233; www.airliebeachhotel.com.au;
cnr The Esplanade & Coconut Grove; s/d $135/145,
hotel r $179-289; aWs ) The spacious hotel
rooms with sea views are much better value
than the drab motel unit. Reception closes
at 9pm.
Water’s Edge Resort APARTMENT $$$
(% 07-4948 4300; www.watersedgewhitsundays.
com.au; 4 Golden Orchid Dr; 1-bedroom apt $210-
260, 2-bedroom apt $275-345; a s ) It’s easy
walking distance to town for such an elegant
retreat. The languid heat subsides upon
entering reception and the rooms don’t
disappoint: pastels and creamy hues, cane
headboards and cooling use of shutters max-
imise the tropical experience. The staggered
pool area will subdue the most restless soul.
Coral Sea Resort RESORT $$$
(% 1800 075 061; www.coralsearesort.com; 25
Ocean View Ave; d $220-370, 1-bedroom apt $330,
2-bedroom apt $350-400; a i W s ) At the end
of a low headland overlooking the water just
west of the town centre, Coral Sea Resort
has one of the best positions around. Many
of the rooms have stunning views.
Airlie Waterfront B&B B&B $$$
(% 07-4946 7631; www.airliewaterfrontbnb.com.au;
cnr Broadwater Ave & Mazlin St; d $259-285; a i )
With absolutely gorgeous views and immac-
ulately presented from top to toe, this sump-
tuously furnished B&B oozes class and is a
leisurely five-minute walk into town along
the boardwalk.
Whitsunday Organic B&B B&B $$$
(% 07-4946 7151; www.whitsundaybb.com.au; 8 La-
mond St; s/d $155/210) S An element of hype
surrounds this much-loved guesthouse but
the organic breakfasts do live up to the bill-
ing. Peace is best found outside the small
rooms and in the gardens brimming with
life.
5 Eating
Marino’s Deli DELI $
(Whitsunday Shopping Centre, Cannonvale; dishes
$7-16; h 11am-8pm Mon-Sat) In a new premis-
es in Cannonvale, Marino’s is still the first
choice for locals looking for delicious home-
made pasta and huge salads. Affordable,
high-quality Italian food is available for
takeaway.

Village Cafe CAFE $
(% 07-4946 5745; 351 Shute Harbour Rd; mains
$10-21; h 7.30am-9pm) Very reliable and well-
priced eatery with famous breakfasts, strong
coffee and the ‘hot rock’ ($26 to $34) sizzle
plate at lunch or dinner.
Airlie Supermarket SUPERMARKET $
(277 Shute Harbour Rd) For self-caterers.
oMr Bones PIZZA, TAPAS $$
(% 0416 011 615; Shop 8, Lagoon Plaza, 263 Shute
Harbour Rd; shared plates $12-17, pizza $15-23;
h 9am-9pm Tue-Sat) Mr Bones is the new stand-
ard bearer in Airlie Beach for hip, affordable
dining. The location opposite the lagoon is a
gastronomic thoroughfare and diners here
relish the prompt service and inventive cook-
ing. The thin-based pizzas are tremendous –
try the prawn and harissa – while the egg-
plant chips ($15) and spicy sardines ($17) sug-
gest a playfulness that suits the holiday vibe.
Fish D’vine SEAFOOD $$
(% 07-4948 0088; 303 Shute Harbour Rd; mains
$14-28; h lunch & dinner) The mixture of sug-
ary liquor and seafood is strangely palatable
at this popular Airlie institution. A selec-
tion of over 200 different rums somehow
complements big plates of barbecued tiger
prawns ($26) and yummy four-fish tasting
plates ($27).
Denman Cellars Beer Cafe TAPAS $$
(% 07-4948 1333; Shop 15, 33 Port Dr; mains $12-26;
h 11am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-11pm Sat & Sun) Solid
Mod-Oz food including lamb meatballs, very
small shared seafood tapas and stock break-
fast menu pales under the sheer weight of
the beer menu. Lots of fun in the sun!
Waterline
MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-4948 1023; 1 Shingley Dr; mains $20-30;
h lunch & dinner Wed-Sun, breakfast Sun) With
stunning views over the marina, this restau-
rant at Shingley Beach Resort has one of the
best locations for waterfront dining. The de-
cor is tropical beach-chic. Recommended by
the locals for its good service, great food and
consistent quality.
Whitsunday Sailing Club PUB $$
(% 07-4946 7894; Airlie Point; mains $14-32;
h lunch & dinner) The sailing-club terrace
(don’t sit inside) is a great place for a meal
and a drink and wonderful ocean views.
Choose from the usual steak and schnitzel
culprits.
391
Alain’s Restaurant FRENCH $$$
(% 07-4946 5464; 44 Coral Esplanade; mains $25-
35; h dinner Thu-Sat) The region’s most unpre-
tentious high-end restaurant is this French
doozy opposite Cannonvale beach. The six-
course table d’hôte menu will please any pal-
ate. The service is considered and attentive.
Book early in high season.
Deja Vu FUSION $$$
(% 07-4948 4309; Golden Orchid Dr; lunch mains
$15-21, dinner mains $27-40; h lunch Wed-Sun, din-
ner Wed-Sat) Rated as one of Airlie’s best, this
Polynesian-themed restaurant concocts con-
temporary dishes with Asian and Mediter-
ranean influences. Be sure to while away a
few hours at the famous long Sunday lunch
(eight courses for $40 per person).
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef A
6 Drinking & Nightlife
According to the locals, Airlie Beach is a
drinking town with a sailing problem. The
bars at Magnums and Beaches, the two big
backpackers in the centre of town, are al-
ways crowded.
Uber BAR
(350 Shute Harbour Rd; h 2-11pm Tue-Thu, to 2am
Fri & Sat) This uber-cool bar and restaurant
is the classiest in town. Come for cocktails,
lounge in comfortable nooks on the alfresco
deck, or just savour the uber-ambience.
Paddy’s Shenanigans IRISH PUB
(352 Shute Harbour Rd; h 5pm-3am) Paddy’s has
live music late at night, and proudly encour-
ages the Irish penchant for hard drinking.
Wirhriilnk
D
Mama Africa CLUB
ts
i eiung
(263 Shute Harbour Rd; h 10pm-5am) Just a
stumble across the road from the main par-
Bnday
e ac
ty bars, this African-style safari nightclub
&h
throbs a beat that both hunter and prey find
NCi goast
hard to resist.
htlife
Magnum’s PUB
(% 07-4946 6266; Shute Harbour Rd; h 11am-
midnight) Imagine five hundred sunburned
20-somethings jumping around in a vast
outdoor venue with cheap champagne and
cheap beds. Magnum’s is a classic backpack-
er party; we say whack it on an ironic ‘do-
before-you-die’ list.
88 Information
Private operators dish out tourist advice along
Shute Harbour Rd – use your discretion and
shop around.
392
Destination Whitsundays (% 07-4946 7172;
297 Shute Harbour Rd) Books tours.
QPWS (% 07-4967 7355; www.derm.qld.gov.
au; cnr Shute Harbour & Mandalay Rds; h 9am-
4.30pm Mon-Fri) Situated 3km towards Shute
Harbour. A must-visit for info on island camping
and various hikes.
Whitsundays Central Reservation Centre
(% 1800 677 119; www.airliebeach.com; 259
Shute Harbour Rd; h 7am-7pm) Helpful family-
run tour agency. Also has internet.
88 Getting There & Around
The closest major airports are at Proserpine and
on Hamilton Island. The small Whitsunday Air-
port (% 07-4946 9180, 07-4946 9933) is about
6km southeast of town.
Greyhound (% 13 20 30; www.greyhound.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef W
com.au) and Premier Motor Service (% 13
34 10; www.premierms.com.au) have bus con-
nections to Brisbane ($230, 19 hours), Mackay
($38, two hours), Townsville ($58, 4½ hours)
and Cairns ($140, 11 hours). Long-distance
buses stop on The Esplanade, between the sail-
ing club and Airlie Beach Hotel.
Whitsunday Transit (% 07-4946 1800) con-
nects Proserpine (Proserpine Airport), Can-
nonvale, Abel Point, Airlie Beach and Shute
Harbour. Buses operate from 6am to 10.30pm.
Car-rental agencies include Avis (% 07-4951
1266), Europcar (% 07-4946 4133; 398 Shute
Harbour Rd), Fun Rentals (% 07-4948 0489;
344 Shute Harbour Rd) and Hertz (% 07-4946
4687; 342 Shute Harbour Rd).
W hitsunday Islands
G ehtt
The 74 islands that make up this stunning
archipelago are really the tips of mountains
i ts
i ng
jutting out from the Coral Sea, and from
u nday
their sandy fringes the ocean spreads to-
T h e rIs
wards the horizon. Sheltered by the Great
Barrier Reef, the waters are perfect for
Ceoast
sailing.
l&ands
Of the numerous stunning beaches and
A r o u nd
secluded bays, Whitehaven Beach stands
out for its pure white silica sand. It is un-
doubtedly the finest beach in the Whitsun-
days, and possibly one of the finest in the
world.
Only seven of the islands have tourist
resorts – catering to every budget and whim
from the basic accommodation at Hook Is-
land to the exclusive luxury of Hayman Is-
land. Most of the islands are uninhabited,
and several offer the chance of back-to-
nature beach camping and bushwalking.
4 Sleeping
Most rates quoted for resorts are the stand-
ard rates, but look around for better-value
package deals.
QPWS (www.derm.qld.gov.au) manages the
Whitsunday Islands National Park camp-
ing grounds on several islands. Camping
permits are available online, from the Whit-
sunday QPWS office and the Whitsunday In-
formation Centre in Proserpine. Permits cost
$5.85/21.80 per person/family.
You must be self-sufficient, and are ad-
vised to take 5L of water per person per day,
plus three days’ extra supply in case you get
stuck. You should also have a fuel stove;
wood fires are banned on all islands.
Get to your island with Whitsunday Is-
land Camping Connections – Scamper
(% 07-4946 6285; www.whitsundaycamping.com.
au), which leaves from Shute Harbour and
can drop you at South Molle, Denman or
Planton Islands ($65 return); Whitsunday
Island ($105 return); Whitehaven Beach
($155 return); and Hook Island ($160 re-
turn). Camping transfers also include com-
plimentary snorkelling gear and water con-
tainers. You can also hire camp kits ($40 per
night). A food drop-off service can be pro-
vided at extra cost.
88 Getting There & Around
The two main airports for the Whitsundays are
at Hamilton Island and Proserpine, 36km south-
west of Airlie Beach. Virgin Australia (% 13 67
89; www.virginaustralia.com) and Jetstar (% 13
15 38; www.jetstar.com.au) connect Hamilton
Island with Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne.
QantasLink (% 13 13 13; www.qantas.com.au)
flies there from Cairns.
Transfers between Abel Point Marina and
Daydream, Long, Hamilton and South Molle
Islands are provided by Cruise Whitsundays
(% 07-4946 4662; www.cruisewhitsundays.
com; adult/child one way $30/20).
Long Island
Long Island has some of the best beaches in
the Whitsundays and some 13km of walk-
ing tracks. The island stretches 9km long by
1.5km wide; a 500m-wide channel separates
it from the mainland. Day trippers can use
the facilities at Long Island Resort.
There’s a national-park camp site at
Sandy Bay.
Paradise Bay (% 07-4946 9777; www.para-
disebay.com.au; 3-night packages per person from
$1500) Sis a secluded eco-friendly lodge on
 393

CONWAY NATIONAL PARK

The mountains of this national park and the Whitsunday Islands are part of the same
coastal mountain range. Rising sea levels following the last ice age flooded the lower val-
leys, leaving only the highest peaks as islands, now cut off from the mainland.
The road from Airlie Beach to Shute Harbour passes through the northern section of
the park. Several walking trails start from near the picnic and day-use area. About 1km
past the day-use area, there’s a 2.4km walk up to the Mt Rooper lookout, which pro-
vides good views of the Whitsunday Passage and islands. Further along the main road,
towards Coral Point (before Shute Harbour), there’s a 1km track leading down to Coral
Beach and The Beak lookout. This track was created with the assistance of the Giru
Dala, the traditional custodians of the Whitsunday area; a brochure available at the start
of the trail explains how the local Indigenous people use plants growing in the area.
To reach the beautiful Cedar Creek Falls, turn off the Proserpine–Airlie Beach road
onto Conway Rd, 18km southwest of Airlie Beach. It’s then about 15km to the falls; the
roads are well signposted. This is a popular picnic and swimming spot – when there’s
enough water, that is!

Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef W

Paradise Bay with 10 spacious bungalows
made from Australian hardwood. There is
a three-night minimum stay, and no chil-
dren or motorised water sports allowed, so
you are guaranteed peace and tranquillity.
The tariff is inclusive of helicopter transfers
from Hamilton Island, sailing tours, food
and beer.
Long Island Resort (% 1800 075 125; www.
oceanhotels.com.au/longisland; d incl all meals
$260-380; ais ) is a resort for everyone
(kids welcome), with varying levels of com-
fort, the best being those on the beachfront.
There are great short walks from here, and
loads of activities.
South Molle Island
The Daydream Island Resort & Spa
(% 1800 075 040; www.daydreamisland.com;  d
from $328; aWs ) feels a bit like an island
theme park but it still prides itself on ex-
cellent service and remarkable building
and grounds maintenance. There are three
swimming pools, tennis courts, catamarans
and faux-beaches. There’s also a kids’ club.
Hook Island
The second largest of the Whitsundays, the
53-sq-km Hook Island is predominantly na-
tional park and rises to 450m at Hook Peak.
Hook boasts some of the best diving and
snorkelling locations in the Whitsundays.
Those who don’t mind roughing it book
G ehtt
in at the Hook Island Wilderness Resort
i ts

Lovers of birds and long, sandy beaches (% 07-4946 9380; www.hookislandresort.com;

i ng

will enjoy the largest island of the Molle camp sites per person $20, d with/without bath-
u nday

archipelago. Nearly 15km of splendid walk- room $120/100; as ), a battered place with
T h e rC

ing tracks traverse this mountainous 4-sq- basic quarters and a licensed restaurant
km island; the highest point is Mt Jeffreys (mains $16 to 27).
Iseoast

(198m), but the climb up Spion Kop is also There are some good camping opportuni-
l&ands

worthwhile. ties in national-park camping grounds at

A r o u nd

There are national-park camping Maureen Cove, Steen’s Beach, Bloodhorn

grounds located at Sandy Bay in the south
and at Paddle Bay near one very tired resort.
Daydream Island
Recently purchased by Chinese investors,
Daydream Island feels more like a pontoon
than a natural wonder. It’s only a 15-minute
ferry ride from the mainland so most ap-
peals to families with kids, or day trippers.
Loads of water-sports gear is available for
hire.
Beach, Curlew Beach and Crayfish Beach.
Whitsunday Island
Whitehaven Beach, on Whitsunday Island,
is a much-fabled, pristine 7km-long stretch
of dazzling white sand bounded by lush
tropical vegetation and a brilliant blue sea.
From Hill Inlet, at the northern end of the
beach, the swirling pattern of pure white
sand through the turquoise and aquamarine
394
water paints a magical picture. There’s excel-
lent snorkelling from its southern end.
There are national-park camping
grounds at Dugong, Nari’s and Joe’s Beach-
es in the west; at Chance Bay in the south; at
the southern end of Whitehaven Beach; and
at Peter Bay in the north.
Hamilton Island
Hamilton Island is the most ‘liveable’ island
in the Whitsundays. There’s a school, a new
marina, a golf course, a busy domestic air-
port and, despite the crowds, a sense of in-
the-know exclusivity.
There are a few walking trails on the is-
land, the best being from behind the Reef
View Hotel up to Passage Peak (230m) on
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B
Other Whitsunday Islands
The northern islands of the Whitsunday
group are undeveloped and seldom visited
by cruise boats or water taxis. Several of
these – Gloucester, Saddleback, Olden and
Armit Islands – have national-park camp-
ing grounds. The QPWS office (% 07-4946
7022; www.derm.qld.gov.au), 3km south of Airlie
Beach, can issue camping permits and ad-
vise you on which islands to visit and how
to get there.
Bowen
POP 10,260
Bowen is a classic reminder of the typical
small Queensland coastal towns of the 1970s –

the northeastern corner of the island.

wide streets, low-rise buildings, wooden
Hamilton Island Resort (% 07-4946
Queenslander houses, and laid-back, friend-
9999; www.hamiltonisland.com.au; d from $370;
ly locals. The foreshore, with its landscaped
a i W s ) has extensive options, including
esplanade, picnic tables and barbecues, is
bungalows, luxury villas, plush hotel rooms
a focal point. Fruit-picking is a major draw
and self-contained apartments. At the high-
for long-term travellers between April and
end, Qualia (% 07-4948 9222, 1300 780 959;
November and for everyone else there are
www.qualia.com.au; d from $1510) regularly
stunning beaches and bays northeast of the
scoops international awards.
town centre.
Hamilton is a ready-made day trip from
Hostels open and close fairly regularly de-
Shute Harbour, and you can use some of the
pending on the season.
resort’s facilities.
4 Sleeping & Eating
Lindeman Island
Barnacles Backpackers HOSTEL $
Lovely Lindeman is mostly national park,
(% 07-4786 4400; www.barnaclesbackpackers.
with empty bays and 20km of impressive
com; 18 Gordon St; dm from $30) Clean hostel
walking trails. Nature photographers de-
scend for the varied island tree life and the but can have poor service; also the only one
Wlohew
S

sublime view from Mt Oldfield (210m). Boat open in Bowen when we visited.
iets

Port is the best spot for camping. Rose Bay Resort

epniung

RESORT $$
(% 07-4786 9000; www.rosebayresort.com.au; 2
nday

Hayman Island Pandanus St; r $150-270; a i s ) In a beautiful

& Eat

location right on the beach, these spacious

The most northern of the Whitsunday group,
C oast

studios and comfy units will ensure plenty

Hayman is just 4 sq km in area and rises to
i ng

of quiet time. Good location and good value.

250m above sea level. It has forested hills,
valleys and beaches, and a five-star resort.
An avenue of huge date palms leads to
Hayman Island Resort (% 07-4940 1234,
1800 075 175; www.hayman.com.au; r incl breakfast
$466-8000; ais ), one of the most luxuri-
ous on the Great Barrier Reef.
For non-guests, flying is the only way
to do day trips to Hayman. Check out Air
Minimum two-night stay.
360 on the Hill CAFE $
(% 07-4786 6360; Margaret Reynolds Dr; mains $6-
16; h 8am-4pm Sat-Thu, 8am-9pm Fri) High atop
Flagstaff Hill. Serves delicious food and fea-
tures stunning 360-degree views.
Food Freaks CAFE $

Whitsunday Seaplanes (% 07-4946 9111; per (% 07-4786 5133; 18-20 Herbert St; mains $10-18;
person $195). h 8am-4pm) Best breakfast for miles and
some of the friendliest service we expe-
rienced on the whole Queensland coast!

Smoothies, baguettes and muffins seem per-
ennial favourites.
Cove CHINESE, MALAY $$
(% 07-4791 2050; Coral Cove Apartments, Horse-
shoe Bay Rd; mains $15-25; h lunch & dinner Tue-
Sun) Serves an interesting fusion of Chinese
and Malay dishes with spectacular sea views
from the timber deck.
Grandview Hotel PUB $$
(% 07-4786 6360; mains $8-25; h 11am-9pm)
Huge corner pub consistently recommended
by locals for its quality meals and sizeable
portions.
88 Getting There & Away
Long-distance buses stop outside Bowen Travel
(% 07-4786 2835; 40 William St), where you can
book and purchase bus tickets. Greyhound Aus-
tralia (% 13 20 30; www.greyhound.com.au) and
Premier Motor Service (% 13 34 10; www.pre-
mierms.com.au) have frequent services to/from
Rockhampton ($110, eight hours), Airlie Beach
($28, 1½ hours) and Townsville ($50, four hours).
TOWNSVILLE TO
MISSION BEACH
North of the Whitsunday Coast you’ll find
mountain ranges, authentic outback towns
and islands worth hopping to. Townsville’s
waterfront stretches for miles and is hugged
by hotels and pubs. Magnetic Island lies just
offshore and, with its 22 bays, makes an awe-
some place for isolated-beach-to-isolated-
beach walking. Northwest of Townsville, the
misty rainforest of the Paluma Range Na-
tional Park stakes its claim as the southern-
most part of the fantastic Wet Tropics World
Heritage Area.
Other highlights include forested Hinchin-
brook and Dunk Islands, and charming Mis-
sion Beach, surrounded by tropical rainforest.
Townsville
POP 189,931
Backed by a giant red hill, Townsville is an
underrated regional centre that has under-
gone an extensive makeover on the back of
mining and military coin. An endless es-
planade fronts the Coral Sea where ferries
shoot across to Magnetic Island and divers
plum its depths.
A short stroll takes visitors past fine mu-
seums, colourful heritage buildings, a huge
395
aquarium and sports-mad, sun-drenched
locals. Townsville has an average of 320 days
of sunshine per year. Undercover seating at
Dairy Farmers Stadium was considered un-
necessary because of the minimal rainfall
during the rugby-league season.
The compact city centre is easy to get
about on foot. Just east of the pedestrian-
only Victoria Bridge (or the Dean St vehicle
bridge), South Townsville is home to the
city’s premier drinking and dining precinct,
centred on rejuvenated Palmer St.
1 Sights
oReef HQ Aquarium AQUARIUM
(www.reefhq.com.au; Flinders St E; adult/child
$26.50/12.80; h 9.30am-5pm) Townsville’s ex-
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef To
cellent aquarium is a living reef on dry land.
A staggering 2.5 million litres of water flow
through the coral-reef tank, which is home
to sharks, rays and over 100 fish species, plus
brilliantly hued coral. Kids will love seeing,
feeding and touching turtles at the turtle
hospital.
Castle Hill LOOKOUT
If the temperature’s right (ie the asphalt’s
not melting) it’s worth scrambling to the
top of this striking 286m-high red hill (an
isolated pink-granite monolith) for the
view. Walk up via the rough ‘goat track’
(2km one way) from Hillside Cres. There’s
also a road (via Gregory St or Stanley St), if
you’re driving.
Botanic Gardens GARDENS
(h sunrise-sunset) F Townsville’s botanic
G e wnsv
gardens are spread across three locations:
tt i ngi lTlhee r
each has its own character, but all have
tropical plants and are abundantly green.
Closest to the centre, the formal, ornamen-
tal Queens Gardens (cnr Gregory & Paxton
to
Sts) are 1km northwest of town at the base
e &
of Castle Hill.
M iAway
ss i o n B e ac h
Billabong Sanctuary WILDLIFE RESERVE
(www.billabongsanctuary.com.au; Bruce Hwy;
adult/child $30/19; h 9am-4pm) S Just 17km
south of Townsville, this eco-certified wild-
life park offers up-close-and-personal en-
counters with Australian wildlife – from
dingoes to cassowaries – in their natural
habitat. There are feedings, shows and talks
every half-hour or so.
Australian Institute of ¨
Marine Science RESEARCH INSTITUTE
(AIMS; % 07-4753 4444; www.aims.gov.au) S This
marine-research facility at Cape Ferguson
396

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runs free two-hour tours (10am Fridays, 1700s-style; galleries include the kid-friendly
March to November) covering the institute’s MindZone science centre, displays on north
research (such as coral bleaching and man- Queensland’s rainforests and a new exhibi-
agement of the Great Barrier Reef) and how tion on the animals of Gondwana (ancient
it relates to the community; advance book- Australia).
ings are essential. The turn-off from the
Bruce Hwy is 35km southeast of Townsville. Maritime Museum of Townsville MUSEUM
(www.townsvillemaritimemuseum.org.au; 42-68
Museum of Tropical Queensland MUSEUM Palmer St; adult/child $6/3; h 10am-3pm Mon-
(www.mtq.qld.gov.au; 70-102 Flinders St E; adult/ Fri, noon-3pm Sat & Sun) A smaller affair, with
child $15/8.80; h 9.30am-5pm) The MTQ lighthouse memorabilia and a Yongala ship-
reconstructs scenes using detailed mod- wreck model and display. The HMAS Towns-
els with interactive displays. At 11am and ville is now permanently berthed here.
2.30pm you can load and fire a cannon,

Townsville
æ Top Sights
1 Reef HQ Aquarium.................................. C3
æ Sights
2 Cultural Centre........................................ C3
3 Maritime Museum of Townsville........... C4
Museum of Tropical Queensland...(see 2)
4 Perc Tucker Regional Gallery................ B3
5 Queens Gardens ..................................... A2
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
6 Adrenalin Dive ......................................... A4
7 Remote Area Dive................................... C4
8 Sky Dive Townsville ................................ B3
9 Tobruk Memorial Baths ......................... C2
10 Water Playground................................... B2
ÿ Sleeping
11 Aquarius on the Beach............................A1
12 Coral Lodge ............................................. A3
13 Historic Yongala Lodge Motel............... B2
14 Holiday Inn............................................... B4
15 Mariners North........................................ C2
16 Oaks Gateway on Palmer ...................... C4
17 Oaks Hotel M ........................................... D4
Orchid Guest House ...................... (see 12)
18 Reef Lodge............................................... C3
Cultural Centre CULTURAL CENTRE
(% 07-4772 7679; www.cctownsville.com.au; 2-68
Flinders St E; h 9.30am-4.30pm) Showcases
the history, traditions and customs of the
Wulgurkaba and Bindal people. Call for
guided tour times.
Perc Tucker Regional Gallery GALLERY
(www.townsville.qld.gov.au; cnr Denham & Flinders
Sts; h 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun) A
contemporary art gallery in a stately 1885
former bank. Exhibitions focus on north
Queensland artists.
2 Activities
Stretching 2.2km, Townsville’s palm-lined
waterfront (the Strand) is interspersed with
parks, pools and cafes. Its golden-sand beach
is patrolled and protected by two stinger en-
closures from November to May.
At the northern tip is the rock pool
(h 24hr) F, an enormous artificial swim-
ming pool surrounded by lawns and sandy
beaches. Alternatively, head to the chlorin-
ated safety of the heritage-listed Olympic-
size swimming pool, Tobruk Memorial
Baths (www.townsville.qld.gov.au; Strand; adult/
child $2.50/1.50; h 5.30am-7pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm
Fri, 7am-4pm Sat, 8am-5pm Sun).
397
ú Eating
19 A Touch of Salt ........................................B4
20 Benny's Hot Wok .....................................C4
21 Bountiful Thai........................................... A1
22 Cafe Bambini............................................A2
23 Cbar........................................................... B1
24 Harold's Seafood..................................... B1
25 Longboard Bar &
Grill ......................................................... B1
26 Salt Cellar .................................................C4
Souvlaki Bar ...................................(see 24)
27 The Sweatshop........................................B4
TUBE ................................................(see 21)
û Drinking & Nightlife
28 Brewery ....................................................B3
29 Coffee Dominion......................................B4
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef To
30 Consortium ..............................................C3
31 Molly Malones..........................................C3
32 Seaview Hotel .......................................... B1
33 Watermark Hotel..................................... A1
ý Entertainment
34 Flynns........................................................C3
35 Jupiters Casino........................................D2
There’s also a brilliant little water play-
ground (h 10am-8pm Dec-Mar, to 6pm Sep-Nov,
Apr & May, to 5pm Jun-Aug) F for kids.
Woodstock Trail Rides HORSE RIDING
(% 07-4778 8888; www.woodstocktrailrides.com.
au; Jones Rd; 90-minute/half-day rides $80/100,
cattle musters $175) Situated 43km south of Act
Townsville, this huge property has full- and
half-day horse-riding trips as well as cattle
wnsv
i v i t i ielsl e to M i ss i o n B e ac h
musters for aspiring cowboys and girls.
Bookings essential.
Sky Dive Townsville SKYDIVING
(% 07-4772 4889; www.skydivetownsville.com.
au; tandem dives from $395) Those curious to
know Townsville from top to bottom can try
a tandem dive, landing in the middle of the
sandy Strand.
Diving
The visitor centre has a list of Townsville-
based operators offering PADI–certified
learn-to-dive courses. Prices start at about
$615.
Adrenalin Dive DIVING
(% 07-4724 0600; www.adrenalinedive.com.au)
Day trips to the Yongala (from $220) and
Wheeler Reef (from $280), both includ-
ing two dives. Also offers snorkelling (from
398
$180) on Wheeler Reef as well as live-aboard
trips, and dive certification courses.
Remote Area Dive DIVING
(RAD; % 07-4721 4424; www.remoteareadive.com;
16 Dean St) Runs day trips (from $220) to Or-
pheus and Pelorus islands. Also live-aboard
trips and dive courses.
Salt Dive DIVING
(% 07-4721 1760; www.saltdive.com.au; 2/276 Char-
ters Towers Rd, Hermit Park) Yongala and reef-
diving day trips (from $199) aboard a fast
boat; dive courses available.
Yongala Dive DIVING
(% 07-4783 1519; www.yongaladive.com.au; 56 Nar-
rah St) Yongala wreck dives ($259 including
gear) from Alva Beach, 104km southeast of
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef To w
Townsville. It only takes 30 minutes to get
out to the wreck from here, instead of a 2½-
hour boat trip from Townsville. Book ahead
for backpacker-style accommodation at its
onshore dive lodge (dm/d $25/60; i ).
T Tours
Kookaburra Tours GUIDED TOUR
(% 0448 794 798; www.kookaburratours.com.
au) Highly recommended day trips include
‘Heritage and Highlights’ city tours (adult/
child $50/25), Wallaman Falls (adult/child
$125/55) and rainforest tours in Mount Spec
National Park (adult/child $125/55).
Townsville Ghost Tours GUIDED TOUR
(% 0404 453 354; www.townsvilleghosttours.com.
au) Five spooky options, from city haunts
aboard the ‘ghost bus’ (from $65) to an over-
night trip to Ravenswood ($250 including
u rnss v i l l e to M i s s i o n B e ac h
meals and accommodation).
4 Sleeping
Coral Lodge B&B $
(% 07-4771 5512; www.corallodge.com.au; 32 Hale
St; s/d without bathroom $70/90, units from $85;
a ) At the base of Stanton Hill is a fun Aus-
sie family home that has been used as lodg-
ing for nearly a century. Pay a bit extra for
the self-contained units which are terrific
value. The lodge is only a short walk from
the sights of Townsville but you can call
ahead for pick up.
Reef Lodge HOSTEL $
(% 07-4721 1112; www.reeflodge.com.au; 4 Wickham
St; dm $22-26, d with/without bathroom $80/62;
aiW ) Townsville’s best hostel does not
have much to compete with, and keeps
rooms and service pretty basic. However,
there are thoughtful touches like Buddhist
sculptures and hammocks strewn through
the garden, pond sculptures and a kick-arse
‘80s-style games room.
Orchid Guest House GUESTHOUSE $
(% 07-4771 6683; www.orchidguesthouse.com.
au; 34 Hale St; dm $27, with/without bathroom s
$75/55, d $85/65; a ) Bright and cheerful
budget rooms await low-key backpackers
and itinerant workers at this quiet, well-run
guesthouse. The owners know their clien-
tele and provide mountains of information
on the area. You can’t miss the sky blue
exteriors.
Rowes Bay Caravan Park CAMPGROUND $
(% 07-4771 3576; www.rowesbaycp.com.au; Heat-
ley Pde; unpowered/powered sites $26/36, cabins
with/without bathroom from $98/65, villas $105;
aiWs ) Leafy park directly opposite
Rowes Bay’s beachfront. Brand-new villas
are smaller but spiffier than cabins.
Classique B&B B&B $$
(% 0407 699 748; www.classiquebnb.com.au; 495
Sturt St; r $165-185; pa W s ) Multiple indus-
try awards are no surprise for this beauti-
fully maintained B&B on the way to Castle
Hill. The historic Queenslander features
high-pressed metal ceilings and hoop pine
timber floors. There’s a small pool and a
snooker room. There are only three rooms,
each with ensuite bathroom and a small liv-
ing area.
Historic Yongala Lodge Motel MOTEL $$
(% 07-4772 4633; www.historicyongala.com.au;
11 Fryer St; motel r $99-105, 1-bedroom apt $115-
120; aWs ) This late-19th-century heritage
building is ideally located near the Strand
and the CBD. The motel-style rooms are a
little compact but the price is very fair and
the on-site Greek restaurant (mains $20 to
$38, open for dinner Monday to Sat)is popu-
lar with locals.
Aquarius on the Beach HOTEL $$
(% 1800 622 474; www.aquariusonthebeach.com.
au; 75 The Strand; d $110-150; a i W s ) A few
clicks from the city along the posh end of the
Strand is this juggernaut of a building that
offers choice views to Magnetic Island from

the full-width balconies. The decor is hold-
ing up pretty well considering the age of the
place and service is astute. Ideal for families.
Oaks Gateway on Palmer HOTEL $$
(% 07-4753 2900; www.oakshotelsresorts.com; 2
Dibbs St; r from $129; paWs ) Excellent new
Oaks franchise on the waterfront. Rooms
are modern with views of either the water or
the hinterland. There’s an Infinity pool and
the staff is very capable.
Holiday Inn HOTEL $$
(% 07-4772 2477; www.townsville.holiday-inn.com;
334 Flinders St; d $110-189; aWs ) This 20-
storey, 1976-built circular building is a
Townsville icon known as the ‘sugar shaker’.
The rooftop pool is worth the stay alone and
the rooms are surprisingly lush given the
concrete exterior.
Oaks Hotel M HOTEL $$
(% 1800 760 144; www.oakshotelsresorts.com; 81
Palmer St; d $144-189; aWs ) This 11-storey
hotel has space-age rooms, excellent facili-
ties and glittering views from the higher-
priced rooms.
Mariners North APARTMENT $$$
(% 07-4722 0777; www.marinersnorth.com.au; 7
Mariners Dr; 2-/3-bedroom apt from $250/390;
a W s ) Plum location at the city end of
the Strand and an incredible poolside vista
across the Coral Sea give this apartment
complex a definite advantage. Perfect for
families with kids though management can
be a little forthright. Guests can access the
Tobruk pool and gym.
5 Eating
oThe Sweatshop CAFE $
(% 0435 845 237; 181 Flinders St; jaffles $7, burg-
ers $12, coffee $3.50; h 7.30am-4pm Mon-Wed,
7.30am-8pm Thu, 7.30am-midnight Fri-Sat, 9am-
3pm Sun) This tongue-in-cheek art space
serves simple, high quality food and the best
coffee in Townsville. If the stingers and the
heat are combining to oppress your senses,
reload here all day long.
TUBE BURGERS $
(% 07-4772 2856; 2/58 The Strand, North Ward;
burgers $10-14; h 11am-8pm Mon-Thu, 11am-9pm
Fri-Sat, 8am-10pm Sun) Straight-up burger bar
with creative reinventions like the Reef &
Beef and My Big Fat Greek Burger. ‘The Ulti-
mate Burger Experience’ (TUBE) is the most
appealing of the North Ward cheap eats. It’s
also licensed.
399
Cafe Bambini CAFE $
(46 Gregory St; mains $11.50-20; h 5.30am-5pm
Mon-Fri, 6.30am-4pm Sat & Sun; v ) Four loca-
tions around the city and no sign of slow-
ing down for this local catering mob who
specialise in breakfasts and fresh take-away
food.
Harold’s Seafood SEAFOOD $
(cnr The Strand & Gregory St; meals $4-10; h lunch
& dinner) This takeaway joint has bug burgers
of the Moreton Bay variety.
Souvlaki Bar GREEK $
(Shops 3 & 4, 58 The Strand; mains $6.50-17.50;
h 10.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 10pm Sat & Sun)
Grab a big Greek breakfast of bacon, eggs,
sausage, souvlaki, grilled tomatoes, haloumi
and pita bread.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef To
Coffee Dominion CAFE $
(www.coffeedominion.com.au; cnr Stokes & Ogden
Sts; h 6am-5pm Mon-Wed, to 5.30pm Thu & Fri,
7am-1pm Sat & Sun) S Eco-conscious cafe.
Longboard Bar & Grill MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-4724 1234; The Strand, opposite Gregory St;
mains $15-34; h 11.30am-3pm & 5.30pm-late) The
only restaurant on the water’s edge has been
reincarnated as a brewery and grillhouse
where seafood, steak and beer food such as
buffalo wings and fish tacos are served up to
huge crowds, especially on weekends.
Benny’s Hot Wok ASIAN $$
(% 07-4724 3243; 17-21 Palmer St; mains $14-29;
h lunch Fri & Sun, dinner daily) The cocktail
bar and steamy, tropical setting are reason Eatwnsv
enough to visit this north Queensland fa-
vourite. The full gamut of Asian food is on
i ng i l l e to M i ss i o n B e ac h
offer, with mixed success, mind you.
A Touch of Salt MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-4724 4441; cnr Stokes & Ogden Sts; mains
$30-36; h lunch Thu & Fri, dinner Tue-Sat) The
less pretentious (and less interesting) of the
two Salt establishments.
Cbar CAFE $$
(The Strand, opposite Gregory St; mains $16-26;
h 7am-10pm; v ) Very reliable and agreeable
venue serving full meals throughout the day,
from coconut prawns with mango salsa to
Moroccan-style beef tagines.
Bountiful Thai THAI $$
(Shop 1, 52 Gregory St; mains $13-21; h lunch Mon-
Fri, dinner daily) Takeaway whipping up noodle
and rice dishes, curries and soups in huge
portions and quick time.
4 00

RAVENSWOOD & CHARTERS TOWERS

You don’t have to venture too far inland for a taste of the dry, dusty Queensland outback,
which is a stark contrast to the verdant coast. This detour is easily accessible on a day
trip from Townsville, but it’s worth staying overnight if you can.
Along the Flinders Hwy, a turn-off at Mingela, 88km southwest of Townsville, leads
40km south to the tiny gold-mining village of Ravenswood (population 150), with a
couple of gorgeous turn-of-the-20th-century pubs with accommodation.
A further 47km west along the Flinders Hwy from Mingela is the historic gold-rush
town of Charters Towers (population 8100). The ‘towers’ are its surrounding tors
(hills). William Skelton Ewbank Melbourne (WSEM) Charters was the gold commissioner
during the rush, when the town was the second-largest, and wealthiest, in Queensland.
With almost 100 mines, some 90 pubs and a stock exchange, it became known simply
as ‘the World’.
Today, a highlight of a visit to the Towers is strolling past its glorious facades recalling
the grandeur of those heady days, and listening to locals’ ghost stories.
History oozes from the walls of the 1890 Stock Exchange Arcade, next door to
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef To

the Charters Towers visitor centre (% 07-4752 0314; www.charterstowers.qld.gov.au;

74 Mosman St; h 9am-5pm). The visitor centre has a free brochure outlining the One
Square Mile Trail of the town centre’s beautifully preserved 19th-century buildings,
and books all tours in town, including the Venus Gold Battery (Millchester Rd; tours
adult/child $12/6; h 10am-3pm), where gold-bearing ore was crushed and processed; it
cranks into action during mid-July’s Gold Fever Festival.
Come nightfall, panoramic Towers Hill, the site where gold was first discovered, is the
atmospheric setting for a free open-air cinema showing the 20-minute film Ghosts
After Dark – check seasonal screening times with the visitor centre.
In-town accommodation includes period furniture–filled former pub the Royal Pri-
vate Hotel (% 07-4787 8688; 100 Mosman St; s/d without bathroom $45/55, d with bathroom
$90-115; aW ). A venture to Charters Towers is incomplete without scoffing one of the
award-winning pies at Towers Bakery (114 Gill St; pies $3.90-4.30; h 5am-3pm Mon-Fri, to
1pm Sat).
Greyhound Australia (% 1300 473 946; www.greyhound.com.au) has four weekly
services between Townsville and Charters Towers ($36, 1¾ hours).
The Queensland Rail (% 1300 131 722; www.traveltrain.com.au) Inlander runs twice
weekly between Townsville and Charters Towers ($28, three hours).
D r wnsv
i nk i ng

Salt Cellar MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$$ Watermark Hotel BAR

(% 07-4724 5866; www.thesaltcellar.com.au; 13 (72-74 The Strand) Some serious Sunday sessions
i l l&eNto

Palmer St; mains $30-40; h 5.30pm-late Mon-Sat) take place in the tavern bar, while there’s also
The newest addition to the Salt emporium a more upmarket bar and an excellent Mod
is now the darling of the Palmer St din- Oz restaurant (mains $28 to $36, open lunch
i g hMtilss

ner set. An extensive wine cellar accentu- and dinner daily, breakfast Sunday).
ates starters like pheasant tortellini ($21)
Seaview Hotel
i fieo n B e ac h

and tamarind prawns ($19). For the main
course, we loved the venison loin ($40).
Service is first class.
6 Drinking & Nightlife
oBrewery MICROBREWERY
(252 Flinders St; mains $17-36; h Mon-Sat, restau-
rant lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) A variety of brews,
from wit bier to stout, are made on-site at
Townsville’s handsomely restored 1880s
former post office. Soak them up with a
meal at its refined restaurant.
PUB
(cnr The Strand & Gregory St; restaurant mains $21-
44; h restaurant lunch & dinner) The sea views,
fig-tree locale and occasionally loud live mu-
sic win over pub-loving locals in this sprawl-
ing drinking hub.
Molly Malones PUB, CLUB
(87 Flinders St E; h The Shed 8pm-5am Tue, Fri
& Sat) This boisterous Irish pub stages live
music on Friday and Saturday nights, or you
can shake it on the dance floor of its adja-
cent nightclub, The Shed.

Consortium CLUB
(159 Flinders St E; h 9pm-5am Tue & Thu-Sun)
Resident DJs, DJ comps and events like ‘fet-
ish and fantasy’ balls make this big city–style
venue Townsville’s hippest nightclub.
4 01
Premier Motor Service (% 13 34 10; www.
premierms.com.au) has one service a day to/
from Brisbane and Cairns, stopping in Townsville
at the Fantasea car ferry terminal (Ross St,
South Townsville).

3 Entertainment 88 Getting Around

Flynns LIVE MUSIC
(101 Flinders St E; h 5pm-late Tue-Sun) A jolly
Irish pub that doesn’t try too hard to be
Irish. Wildly popular for its $8 jugs and live
music every night except Wednesday, when
karaoke takes over.
The Venue LIVE MUSIC
(www.thevenue.com.au; 719 Flinders St W) Multi-
level place with regular gigs by Aussie acts
(Grinspoon et al) and four bars.
Townsville’s airport is 5km northwest of the
city in Garbutt. A taxi costs $20, or the Airport
Shuttle (% 07-4775 5544; one way/return
$10/18) services all arrivals and departures,
with pick-ups and drop-offs throughout the CBD
(bookings essential).
Sunbus (% 07-4725 8482; www.sunbus.com.
au) scoots around town; pick up info from the
visitor information centre.
Taxis congregate near the Sunbus bus in-
terchange (cnr Flinders & Stokes Sts), or call

Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M

Jupiters Casino CASINO
(Sir Leslie Thiess Dr) Come here for a waterside
flutter.
88 Information
Internet Den (277 Flinders St; per 90min $5;
h 8am-10pm) Internet access.
QPWS (% 13 74 68; www.derm.qld.gov.au; 1-7
Marlow St)
Visitor Information Centre (% 07-4721 3660;
www.townsvilleonline.com.au; cnr Flinders &
Stokes Sts) Extensive visitor information on
Townsville, Magnetic Island and nearby national
parks.
88 Getting There & Away
AIR
Virgin Australia (% 13 67 89; www.virginaus-
Townsville Taxis (% 13 10 08).
Magnetic Island
POP 2500
‘Maggie’, as she’s affectionately called, is a
‘real’ island. Permanent residents live and
work here and some even make the daily
commute to Townsville. Over half of this
mountainous, triangular-shaped island’s 52
sq km is national park, with scenic walks
and abundant wildlife, including one of
the largest concentrations of wild koalas in
Australia. Stunning beaches offer adrenalin-
pumping water sports or just the chance to
bask in the sunshine. Each of the four tiny
beach villages has its own distinct person-
ality, and the granite boulders, hoop pines
and eucalypts are a change from your typical
Toagn
Ent
tropical-island paradise.
wnsv

tralia.com), Jetstar (% 13 15 38; www.jetstar.

e reta

com.au) and Qantas (% 13 13 13; www.qantas.

1 Sights & Activities
t i ic

com.au) all service Townsville.

lnm

There’s one main road across the island,

lIs

BUS
e elto

which goes from Picnic Bay, past Nelly and

nt

Greyhound Australia departs from here. Buses

and

Geoffrey Bays, to Horseshoe Bay. Local buses

pick up and drop off at Townsville’s Sunferries
M i ss i o n B e ac h

ply the route regularly.

Breakwater ferry terminal (2/14 Sir Leslie Walking tracks abound on Magnetic Is-
Thiess Dr; lockers per day $4-6). land, and DERM (% 13 74 68; www.derm.qld.gov.
DESTINATION PRICE ($) DURATION (HR) au) produces a leaflet of the island’s excellent
bushwalking tracks. Walks are mainly along
Airlie Beach 71 4½
the east coast and vary in length from half
Brisbane 270 23 an hour to half a day.
Cairns 83 6
Fort Complex FORT
Charters Towers 36 1½
In 1942 Townsville became a major mili-
Mackay 96 6 tary base, and a forts complex was built
Mission Beach 63 4 on Magnetic Island to spot aircraft with its
Rockhampton 149 12 two 3-million-candle-power searchlights. If
you’re going to do just one walk, then the
4 02
forts walk (2.8km, 1½ hours return) is a
must. It starts near the Radical Bay turn-off.
Or head north to Radical Bay via the rough
vehicle track. This has walking tracks to se-
cluded Arthur Bay and Florence Bay (the
northern sides of both offer the island’s best
snorkelling).
Picnic Bay BAY
Picnic Bay is slowly recovering from the loss
of the ferry terminal a few years ago. Trav-
ellers are returning for its end-of-the-line
seclusion, the elegant curlew birds close at
hand and the night views of Townsville.
Activities in the area include swimming
in the beach’s stinger enclosure (November
to May) or hitting balls around the nine-hole
golf course at the Magnetic Island Country
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M
Club (% 07-4778 5188; www.magneticislandgolf.
com.au; Hurst St; h from 8am). West is Cockle
Bay, site of the HMS City of Adelaide wreck,
followed by West Point with its stunning
sunsets and secluded beach. East round the
coast is Rocky Bay, where a short, steep
walk leads down to a beautiful sheltered
beach.
Nelly Bay BAY
This bustling harbour is where the island
experience begins and ends if you come by
passenger or car ferry. Nelly Bay has a wide
range of eating and sleeping options and
a decent beach. There’s a children’s play-
ground towards the northern end of the
beach and good snorkelling on the fringing
coral reef.
Toagn
Arcadia Village VILLAGE
wnsv
u r se t i c
Arcadia village has the island’s main concen-
tration of shops, eateries and accommoda-
tion. Its main beach, Geoffrey Bay, has a
l lIs
reef at its southern end (DERM discourages
e lto
reef walking). By far its prettiest beach is
and
Alma Bay cove, with huge boulders tum-
M i ss i o n B e ac h
bling into the sea. There’s plenty of shade,
along with picnic tables and a children’s
playground here.
If you head to the end of the road at
Bremner Point, between Geoffrey Bay and
Alma Bay, at 5pm, you can have wild rock
wallabies literally eating out of your hand –
they’ve become accustomed to being fed at
the same time each day.
Radical Bay BAY
Radical Bay once housed a resort, and a re-
placement is in the pipeline. In the mean-
time it’s a peaceful spot. You can walk across
the headland to Horseshoe Bay, taking a de-
tour down to the unofficial nudist beach of
Balding Bay (3.4km return).
Horseshoe Bay BAY
The beach here is easily the best of the is-
land’s accessible beaches. It has a stinger en-
closure, water-sports equipment for hire, a
row of cafes and a good pub. Bungalow Bay
Koala Village has a wildlife park (adult/child
$19/10; h 2hr tours 10am, noon & 2.30pm) where
you can cuddle koalas ($14 including pho-
tos), or tuck into a bush tucker gourmet
breakfast (adult/child $25/12.50). A monthly
craft market (h 9.30am-2pm last Sun of
month) sets up along the beachfront.
Pleasure Divers DIVING
(% 1800 797 797; www.pleasuredivers.com.au; 10
Marine Pde, Arcadia; open-water course per person
$349) Teaches all PADI courses and offers
reef, wreck and island dives.
Magnetic Island Hire Boats BOAT HIRE
(% 07-4778 5327) Rents out boats ($220 per
day plus fuel) that can carry up to eight
people – great for fishing, snorkelling or just
finding your own private cove.
Horseshoe Bay Ranch HORSE RIDING
(% 07-4778 5109; www.horseshoebayranch.com.
au; 38 Gifford St, Horseshoe Bay; 2hr rides $100)
Memorable rides through bush and along
the beach.
T Tours
Providence V CRUISE
(% 07-4778 5580; www.providencesailing.com.au)
Six-hour sailing trips aboard a 62ft schooner
for $129 (including snorkelling gear); also
2½-hour champagne sunset cruises.
Magnetic Island Sea Kayaks KAYAKING
(% 07-4778 5424; www.seakayak.com.au; 93 Horse-
shoe Bay Rd; tours from $85) S Eco-certified
morning and sunset tours departing from
Horseshoe Bay. Also offers kayak rental (per
day from $75).
Reef Ecotours SNORKELLING
(% 0419 712 579; www.reefecotours.com; adult/
child $80/70) Family-friendly one-hour snor-
kelling tours guided by a marine biologist.
Tropicana Tours DRIVING TOUR
(% 07-4758 1800; www.tropicanatours.com.au;
full day adult/child $198/99) Offers 4WD tours
taking in wildlife, as well as lunch at a lo-
cal cafe and a sunset cocktail (all included
in the price).

4 Sleeping
Much of the accommodation on the island
is holiday rental cottages – contact First Na-
tional Real Estate (% 07-4778 5077; 21 Marine
Pde, Arcadia) or Smith & Elliott (% 07-4778
5570; 4/5 Bright Ave, Arcadia).
4 Picnic Bay
Tropical Palms Inn MOTEL $$
(% 07-4778 5076; www.tropicalpalmsinn.com.au;
34 Picnic St; s/d $100/110; as ) With a terrific
little swimming pool situated right outside
your front door, the self-contained motel
units here are bright and comfortable. Re-
ception can hire out 4WDs (from $75 per
day).
4 Nelly Bay
Base Backpackers HOSTEL $
(% 1800 242 273; www.stayatbase.com; 1 Nelly Bay
Rd; camping $12 per person, dm $25-30, d with/
without bathroom from $120/70; iWs ) Come
here for the Island Bar and full-moon par-
ties rather than the fairly shoddy cabins and
flippant service. If loitering in Townsville
then take a package that includes lodging,
food and transport.
Canopy Chalets CHALET $$
(% 0417 030 630; www.canopymagneticisland.
com.au; 42 Yates St; d from $160; paWs ) This
discreet couples-only lodging has some of
the more modern interiors on the island
including loft-style bedrooms and sleek
kitchenettes. The pool is luxurious and the
premises is a 10-minute walk from the Nelly
Bay ferry terminal.
Shambhala Retreat RETREAT $$
(% 0448 160 580; www.shambhala-retreat-
magnetic-island.com.au; 11-13 Barton St; d $115;
a s ) S The entirely green powered prop-
erty contains three small units with their
own tree-screened patios for watching wild-
life. Two have outdoor courtyard showers,
and all have fully equipped kitchens and
laundry facilities. Some of the best value on
the island. There is a two-night minimum
stay.
Grand Mercure Apartments APARTMENT $$$
(% 07-4758 2100; www.accorhotels.com; Sooning
St; d from $260; paWs ) Slick high-end ac-
commodation by the ferry terminal. Recent-
ly overhauled and some of the best views in
the region.
4 03
4 Arcadia
Arcadia Beach Guest House GUESTHOUSE $$
(%07-4778 5668; www.arcadiabeachguesthouse.
com.au; 27 Marine Pde; dm $35-40, tents $55, d with-
out bathroom $85-100, d with bathroom $130-160;
aWs) Once a hostel for nurses, this place
is far from clinical. Choose between bright
rooms, safari tents and shared dorms. You can
turtle-spot from the balcony, or rent a canoe,
Moke (buggy) or 4WD. Free ferry pick-ups.
Hotel Arcadia HOTEL $$
(% 07-4778 5177; www.hotelarcadia.com.au; 7
Marine Pde; r $99-145; a i s ) Fresh from a
facelift, Hotel Arcadia has swish rooms;
make sure you ask for one with an ocean
view. The hub of Arcadia bay is on-site bis-
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M
tro and bar, the Island Tavern (mains $20 to
$28, open lunch and dinner), which keeps
punters happy with $10 jugs, cane-toad rac-
es every Wednesday night and a large swim-
ming pool accessible to the public.
4 Horseshoe Bay
Bungalow Bay Koala Village HOSTEL $
(% 1800 285 577, 07-4778 5577; www.bungalowbay.
com.au; 40 Horseshoe Bay Rd; unpowered/powered
sites per person $12.50/15, dm $28, d with/with-
out bathroom $90/74; a i s ) S Not only a
resort-style, YHA-associated hostel but a na-
ture wonderland (with its own wildlife park).
Less than five minutes’ walk from the beach,
A-frame bungalows are strewn throughout
leafy grounds backing onto national park.
Cool off at the outdoor bar, go coconut bowl-
To
S lagn
ing, or tuck into a curry at the restaurant
ewnsv
e pei ng
(mains $16 to $24, open lunch and dinner).
tic
Shaws on the Shore APARTMENT $$$
l lIs
(% 07-4778 1900; www.shawsontheshore.com.au;
e lto
7 Pacific Dr; 1-/2-/3-bedroom apt $175/265/320;
and
aWs ) Shaws is not going to win any inte-
M i ss i o n B e ac h
rior design awards but the location opposite
Horseshoe Bay is unbeatable and the spa-
cious apartments are among the best value
on the island. Plus, they are easier to book
than the many requiring agents.
5 Eating
Horseshoe Bay has the island’s best eateries.
5 Picnic Bay
Bluelephant Thai THAI $$
(% 07-4758 1101; 4/8 The Esplanade; mains $11-18)
This great-value, honest Thai food is drawing
4 04
the crowd back to Picnic Bay. Evenings can
fill up so book ahead or be left dreaming of
bowlfuls of lemongrass, coriander and chilli-
infused goodness.
Picnic Bay Hotel PUB $$
(Picnic Bay Mall; mains $11-26; h 10am-late) Set-
tle in for a drink with Townsville’s city lights
sparkling across the bay. Its R&R Cafe Bar
has an all-day grazing menu and huge sal-
ads, including Cajun prawn.
5 Nelly Bay
Man Friday MEXICAN, INTERNATIONAL $$
(% 07-4778 5658; 37 Warboy St; mains $14-39;
h dinner Wed-Mon; v ) Tex-Mex on an island
may seem a little curious but the sizzling
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M
fajitas and spicy steaks are a hit with fami-
lies and backpackers. Bring your own wine
but book ahead or risk missing out.
Le Paradis FRENCH $$
(% 07-4778 5044; cnr Mandalay Ave & Sooning St;
mains $20-35; h 11.30am-3pm Fri-Sun, 11.30am-
9pm Tue-Sat) Attentive service and an elegant
menu at this French restaurant which has
an attached ‘kiosk’ selling fresh baguettes
and more. It’s BYO.
5 Arcadia
Butler’s Pantry CAFE, DELI $
(Shop 2-3, 5 Bright Ave; mains $15-21; h breakfast
& lunch Wed-Mon; v ) At this gourmet grocery
store–cafe you’ll find the island’s best brek-
kies, including pancakes, eggs every which
Toagn
In
way, and stacks of veggie options. Great
fo
lunches too.
wnsv
remat
Caffè dell’ Isola ITALIAN $$
tic
(Shop 1, 7 Marine Pde; mains $15-26; h breakfast
l ilo
& lunch Tue, Thu & Sun, breakfast, lunch & dinner
Is
enlto
Wed, Fri & Sat, daily during school holidays) A lit-
and
tle brusque perhaps, but you will happily
M i ss i o n B e ac h
turn the other cheek when the crisp-crust
pizzas arrive at your courtyard table. Cash
only.
Banister’s Seafood SEAFOOD $$
(% 07-4778 5700; 22 McCabe Cres; mains $10-22;
h lunch & dinner) You can do the whole sit-
down thing and order off the menu chalked
on the blackboard of this BYO-only seafood
joint, or grab some takeaway and head to a
nearby beach.
Arcadia Night Market MARKET $$
(Hayles Ave, Arcadia; h 5-8pm Fri) Small but
lively night market next door to the RSL,
with sizzling Indonesian food and seafood to
cook up yourself.
5 Horseshoe Bay
Cafe Nourish CAFE $
(% 07-4778 1885; 3/6 Pacific Dr; mains $9-15) Very
friendly cafe and popular with locals. Loads
of magazines and games to choose from
while you sip huge smoothies and munch on
yummy wraps.
Beach Bar & Bistro CONTEMPORARY $$
(7 Pacific Dr; mains $12-25) The best restaurant
in Horseshoe is an unassuming place with
an eclectic menu and a highly skilled chef.
The burgers are in fact grilled meals inside
bread, while the pies and Asian dishes are
spot on. Cool service and tunes made our
half-day.
Marlin Bar PUB $$
(3 Pacific Dr; mains $16-24; h lunch & dinner) Sun-
set stubbies at the Marlin are a rite of pas-
sage for travellers to Maggie and the hearty
seafood, steak and late breakfast can mop
up the damage caused by one too many. Can
get rather busy on weekends.
Barefoot MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-4758 1170; 5 Pacific Dr; mains $16-30;
h lunch & dinner Thu-Mon) Maggie’s most ur-
bane restaurant has a long wine list, appeal-
ing lunch specials, superb seafood platters
and tasty desserts. The art gallery provides
welcome space for digestive contemplation.
Service is beachy keen.
88 Information
There’s no official visitor information centre on
Magnetic Island, but Townsville’s visitor informa-
tion centre has comprehensive info and maps,
and can help find accommodation.
ATMs are scattered throughout the island,
although there are no banks. The post office
(Sooning St, Nelly Bay) also has an ATM.
88 Getting There & Away
All ferries arrive and depart Maggie from the
terminal at Nelly Bay.
Sealink (% 07-4726 0800; www.sealinkqld.
com.au) operates a frequent passenger ferry
between Townsville and Magnetic Island (adult/
child return $29/15), which takes around 20
minutes. Ferries depart from Townsville from
the Sunferries Breakwater Terminal at 2/14 Sir
Leslie Thiess Dr.
Fantasea (% 07-4796 9300; www.magnetic­
islandferry.com.au; Ross St, South Townsville)

operates a car ferry crossing eight times daily
(seven on weekends) from the south side of Ross
Creek, taking 35 minutes. It costs $178 (return)
for a car and up to three passengers, and $29/17
(return) for an adult/child foot passenger only.
Bookings are essential. Bicycles are transported
free.
Both Townsville terminals have car parking.
88 Getting Around
BICYCLE
Magnetic Island is ideal for cycling although
some of the hills can be hard work. Most places
to stay rent bikes for around $20 a day and a
number of places offer them free to guests.
BUS
The Magnetic Island Bus Service (% 07-4778
5130) ploughs between Picnic Bay and Horse-
shoe Bay at least 18 times a day, meeting all
ferries and stopping at major accommodation
places. A hop-on, hop-off day pass costs $6.
MOKE & SCOOTER
Moke (buggy) and scooter rental places abound
around the island. Expect to pay around $75 per
day for a Moke. You’ll need to be over 21, have
a current international or Australian driver’s
licence and leave a credit-card deposit. Scooter
hire starts at around $35 per day. Try MI Wheels
(% 07-4778 5491; 138 Sooning St, Nelly Bay)
for a classic Moke or ‘topless’ (open-topped)
car, or Roadrunner Scooter Hire (% 07-4778
5222; 3/64 Kelly St, Nelly Bay) for scooters and
trail bikes.
North of Townsville
Paluma Range National Park
The Paluma Range National Park runs al-
most from Ingham to Townsville, and in-
cludes the must-see Mt Spec-Big Crystal
Creek section, 62km north of Townsville.
This is a pocket of rainforest with some awe-
some views of the coast and a variety of dif-
ferent walking trails.
From the Bruce Hwy, the 4km-long route
(Spiegelhauer Rd) to Big Crystal Creek is
located 2km north of Mt Spec Rd. It’s an
easy 100m walk from the car park to Para-
dise Waterhole, with its sandy beach on
one side and great views of the mountains
in the distance. The self-registration QPWS
camping ground (per person/family $5.15/21)
has gas barbecues, toilets and water (treat
before drinking).
4 05
To get to Jourama Falls, travel 6km on a
good, sealed road from the highway, though
the creek at the entrance can be impassable.
It’s a steep walk up to the lookout; watch for
Ulysses butterflies, nocturnal brown bandi-
coots and mahogany gliders (a threatened
species). The rock pools are good for a dip,
and there are plenty of turtles to check out.
The QPWS camping ground has toilets and
barbecues.
Up in the tiny village of Paluma is the
cool Paluma Rainforest Inn (% 07-4770
8688; www.rainforestinnpaluma.com; 1 Mt Spec Rd;
d $125; a ), with stylish, well-designed rooms,
lovely gardens and a recommended licensed
restaurant (mains $19 to $29, open lunch
Wednesday to Monday, breakfast and din-
ner by reservation).
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef N
About 14km west of Paluma (the last 4km
along a bumpy unsealed road) is Hidden
Valley Cabins (% 07-4770 8088; www.hidden-
valleycabins.com.au; d without bathroom $89, cab-
ins $159-229 ; s ) S, a solar-powered, carbon-
neutral eco-retreat. You’ll find a clutch of
log cabins grouped close together and new
deluxe options. A range of two-hour tours
($20) including platypus-spotting safaris
and night walks, run daily. Its restaurant
(mains $24 to $31, open breakfast, lunch
and dinner) serves country-style home cook-
ing and is open to guests only.
There’s no fuel in Paluma, so fill up before
heading out this way.
Ingham & Around
To
G
Laid-back Ingham is the proud guardian of
eownsv
the ever-expanding Tyto wetlands (Tyto Wet-
tt
r tihng
lands Information Centre; % 07-4776 4792; www.
hinchinbrooknq.com.au; cnr Cooper St & Bruce
oi flAlr
Hwy; h 8.45am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun),
To
eoto
which has 4km of walking trails and attracts
wnsv
u nd
around 230 species of bird, including far-
flung guests from Siberia and Japan, as well
M i ss
as hundreds of wallabies at dawn and dusk.
i l li e
There’s a fine regional gallery and library
o n B e ac h
on-site.
In mid-May the Australian Italian Fes-
tival (www.australianitalianfestival.com.au) cele-
brates the fact that 60% of Ingham residents
are of Italian descent, with pasta flying, wine
flowing and music playing over three days.
Ingham is the jumping-off point for a
trip out to magnificent Wallaman Falls, the
longest single-drop waterfall in Australia
at 305m. Located in Girringun National
Park, 51km southwest of the town (sealed
except for 10km; not suitable for caravans),
4 06
the falls look their best in the Wet though
are spectacular at any time. Nearby, the self-
registration QPWS campground (per person/
family $5.15/21) has showers and barbecues;
the swimming hole is frequented by the oc-
casional platypus. Two- and three-day walk-
ing trails start from the falls, with camp sites
along the way – pick up a Wallaman Falls
Section Girringun National Park leaflet
from the Tyto Wetlands Information Centre.
Mungalla Station (% 07-4777 8718; www.
mungallaaboriginaltours.com.au; Forrest Beach, Al­
ling­ham; 2hr tours adult/child $40/10) S, 15km
east of Ingham, runs insightful Indigenous-
led tours, including boomerang throwing and
stories from the local Nywaigi culture. Defi-
nitely book in for a traditional Kup Murri
lunch (adult/child incl tour $80/20) of meat
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef N
and vegies wrapped in banana leaves and
cooked underground in an earth oven. If you
have a self-contained caravan or campervan,
you can camp (per van $10) overnight.
Once the domain of Italian cane cut-
ters, Ingham’s wonderful 1920s art-deco
Noorla Heritage Resort (% 07-4776 1100;
www.hotelnoorla.com.au; 5-9 Warren St; unpowered/
powered sites $15/22, dm $28, d with/without
bathroom $139/89; aWs ) has magnificently
restored high-ceilinged rooms, plus cheaper
container-style rooms in the garden. A pho-
to montage of local stories lines the walls,
bringing the town’s history to life, as do the
stories told around the resort’s aqua-tiled
guests-only bar. Home cooking includes
regular Kup Murri dinners (one-/two-course
meals $24.50/33, dinner Monday to Satur-
To
G
day). Ask about transfers to Mungalla Sta-
eownsv
tt
r tihng
tion.
Lucinda is a sweet-as-pie port town
oi flAlr
with one massive attribute – a 6km-long
jetty used for shipping sugar. Lucinda Jetty
To
eoto
Store & Take-Away (% 07-4777 8280; 2 Rigby
wnsv
u nd
St; mains $15.50-19.50; h 6am-7pm) serves great
M i ss
barramundi, crumbed steak and king salm-
i l li e
on as well as takeaway fare like burgers and
filled rolls.
o n B e ac h
Cardwell
POP 12,000
Spread along kilometres of crocodile-infested
waters (even the public pool has a croco-
dile on its sign), Cardwell is the gateway to
the sublime Hinchinbrook Island National
Park but has its own unique seaside, prawn-
burger-lovin’ attitude that doesn’t take long
to get used to. Port Hinchinbrook Marina,
2km from the town, feels eerily quiet after
Cyclone Yasi but still serves as the departure
point for Hinchinbrook Island. Behind Card-
well is the 26km Cardwell Forest Drive,
and you can dip into the springs and spas
along the way.
The very modern warehouse-style Card-
well Backpackers Hostel (% 07-4066 8404;
www.cardwellbackpackers.com.au; 6 Brasenose St;
dm $20; iWs ) run by charismatic locals
and is well above the standard seasonal
worker digs. Banana and pineapple farms
provide work throughout the year.
Cardwell Beachcomber Motel & Tour-
ist Park (% 07-4066 8550; www.cardwellbeach-
comber.com.au; 43a Marine Pde; unpowered/
powered sites $25/30, motel d $75-100, cabins &
studios $90-110; aiW s ) is back to life af-
ter the storm and is a beautiful family-style
resort with a range of accommodation op-
tions, including brand new ocean-front vil-
las. Its licensed restaurant (mains $24.50
to $36.50; open breakfast daily, lunch and
dinner Monday to Saturday) is the best in
town, serving the likes of rosemary-crusted
lamb, slow-roasted pork and sweet-and-sour
flathead, as well as pizzas.
Over 1.2 green, tree-shaded hectares,
accommodation options at the well-run
Kookaburra Holiday Park (% 07-4066 8648;
www.kookaburraholidaypark.com.au; 175 Bruce
Hwy; unpowered/powered sites $22/29, dm/s/d
without bathroom $25/45/50, cabins without bath-
room $65, units $85-105; a i s ) include airy
dorms in a large Queenslander house at the
back. You can borrow fishing rods, prawn
nets and crab pots to catch dinner, and tents
to head off for some bush camping.
Hand-built from mud bricks, natural tim-
ber and stone, Mudbrick Manor (% 07-4066
2299; www.mudbrickmanor.com.au; Lot 13, Stony
Creek Rd; s/d $90/120; a s ) is a family home
that has huge, beautifully appointed rooms
grouped around a courtyard with fountain.
Spend long, lazy evenings on the verandah
or large lounge area. Rates include hot
breakfast; book at least a few hours ahead
for delicious three-course dinners (per per-
son $30).
Port Hinchinbrook Resort (% 07-4066
2000; www.porthinchinbrook.com.au; Bruce Hwy; d
$130-225; as ) has cabins clustered around
the wharf where boats depart for Hinchin-
brook Island and are more like luxury open-
plan villas, with front doors that slide wide
open to catch the waterfront breezes. The re-
sort’s Marina Restaurant (mains $18 to $38,
open lunch and dinner daily year-round,

breakfast Easter to September) dishes up
reef-and-beef-type fare along with views
over the boats docked out front.
Vívía Café (135 Victoria St; mains $9-20;
h 7am-4pm; v ) is a lovely place to linger
on a road trip over gourmet sandwiches,
salads, pasta and seafood. Coffee is spot
on, too. Gourmet Grub (93 Victoria St; mains
$8-16; h 8am-3pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri, 9am-3pm
Sat & Sun; v ) is a chilled cafe with a boho
vibe serving good brekkies and icy soy
smoothies.
The Rainforest and Reef Centre (% 07-
4066 8601; www.portofhinchinbrook.com.au;
h 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun Apr-
Oct, to 1pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar), next to Card-
well’s town jetty, has detailed info on island
transfers, hiking transfers and cruises to
Hinchinbrook Island and other nearby na-
tional parks.
88 Getting There & Away
Greyhound Australia (% 1300 473 946; www.
greyhound.com.au) and Premier Motor Service
(% 13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au) buses
on the Brisbane–Cairns route stop at Cardwell.
Fares with Greyhound/Premier are $48 to
Cairns, and $36 to Townsville.
Cardwell is on the Brisbane–Cairns train line;
contact Queensland Rail (% 1300 131 722;
www.traveltrain.qr.com.au) for details.
Boats depart for Hinchinbrook Island from
Port Hinchinbrook Marina, 2km south of town.
Hinchinbrook Island
National Park
Australia’s largest island national park re-
mains a holy grail for walkers and lovers
of solitary travel. Granite mountains rise
dramatically from the sea; rugged Mt Bo-
wen (1121m) is the island’s highest peak.
The mainland side is dense with lush tropi-
cal vegetation, while long sandy beaches
and tangles of mangrove curve around the
eastern shore. All 399 sq km of the island is
national park, so there is plenty of wildlife,
including the pretty-faced wallaby and the
iridescent-blue Ulysses butterfly.
Hinchinbrook’s highlight is the Thors-
borne Trail (also known as the East Coast
Trail), a 32km coastal track from Ramsay
Bay past Zoe Bay, with its beautiful water-
fall, to George Point at the southern tip.
DERM camp sites (% 13 74 68; www.derm.qld.
gov.au; per person $5.15) are interspersed along
the route. It’s recommended that you take
three nights to complete the trail, allowing
4 07
for swimming stops and quiet time. Return
walks of individual sections are also possi-
ble. This is the real wilderness experience;
you’ll need to use plenty of insect repellent,
protect your food from ravenous native rats,
draw water from creeks as you go (water is
reliably available at Nina, Little Ramsay and
Zoe Bays), and be alert to the possible pres-
ence of crocs around the mangroves. The
trail is ungraded and at times rough.
Only 40 people are allowed on the track at
any one time, so book ahead. DERM recom-
mends booking a year ahead for a place dur-
ing the high season and six months ahead
for other dates. If you’re late but lucky you
might get to replace a cancellation. Card-
well’s Rainforest and Reef Centre stocks the
imperative Thorsborne Trail brochure.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef N
Thorsborne Trail walkers can pick up a
one-way transfer ($50) back to the mainland
with Hinchinbrook Wilderness Safaris
(% 07-4777 8307; www.hinchinbrookwilderness­
safaris.com.au) from George Point at the
southern end of the trail.
Boats leave regularly from Port Hinchin-
brook in Cardwell.
Tully
POP 2500
Surrounded by banana plantations, the sugar-
mill town of Tully, 44km north of Cardwell,
takes pride in its reputation as the wettest
place in Australia. Its big 7.9m golden gum-
boot at the entrance to town boasts that
Tully received 7.9m of rain in 1950. All that
To
G eownsv
tt
r tihng
TULLY RIVER RAFTING
oi flTlh
The Tully River provides thrilling white
water year-round thanks to all that rain
To
ee r
and the river’s hydroelectric floodgates.
to
wnsv
e &
Rafting trips are timed to coincide with
M iAway
the daily release of the floodgates, re-
ss
i l li e
sulting in grade-four rapids, with stun-
ning rainforest scenery as a backdrop.
o n B e ac h
Day trips with Raging Thunder
Adventures (% 07-4030 7990; www.
ragingthunder.com.au/rafting.asp;
standard/’xtreme’ trips $185/215) or
R’n’R White Water Rafting (% 07-
4041 9444; www.raft.com.au; trips $185)
include a barbecue lunch and transport
from Tully or nearby Mission Beach.
The cost is between $215 and $230,
which includes transfers from as far
north as Palm Cove.
4 08
rain ensures plenty of raftable rapids on the
nearby Tully River.
The Tully Visitor & Heritage Centre
(% 07-4068 2288; Bruce Hwy; h 8.30am-4.30pm
Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat & Sun) has a brochure
outlining a self-guided heritage walk
around town, with 17 interpretative pan-
els including one dedicated to Tully’s UFO
sightings.
Book at the visitor centre for 90-minute
Tully Sugar Mill Tours (adult/child $17/11;
h daily late Jun–early Nov) during the crushing
season.
The visitor centre stocks walking maps
for trails along former logging tracks in the
Tully-accessed section of the Misty Moun-
tains (www.mistymountains.com.au); 640m-
high Mt Tyson; and Tully Gorge National
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M
Park, 40km west of town. Tully Gorge has
picnic facilities, but crocs inhabit the area. If
you want a swim, head to the croc-free (and
alligator-free) Alligator’s Nest, 7km north
of town via Murray St.
Practically all accommodation in Tully
is geared for banana workers, with cheap
weekly rates and help finding farm work.
The visitor centre has a list, or try the excel-
lent Banana Barracks (% 07-4068 0455; www.
bananabarracks.com; 50 Butler St; dm with/without
bathroom $28/24, bungalows $40; iWs ), bang
in the town centre, with lots of corrugated
iron, pool tables, and decent dorms and
bungalows out the back. It’s also the hub of
Tully’s nightlife.
For non-workers, the only real option is
the corporate-oriented Tully Motel (% 07-
To
S
4068 2233; www.tullymotel.com; Bruce Hwy; d $89-
iigss
wnsv
110; a W ), with large, well-appointed rooms
h ts
i o n&i lBAct
done up in heritage colours, and Tully’s only
restaurant, Plantations (mains $27-38; h din-
ner Mon-Fri).
leeacto
Greyhound Australia (% 1300 473 946;
ih
www.greyhound.com.au) and Premier Motor
v iM
t iiess
Service (% 13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au)
buses on the Brisbane–Cairns route stop in
s i o n B e ac h
town; fares with Greyhound/Premier are
$29 to Cairns and $39 to Townsville.
Mission Beach
POP 4000
Less than 30km east of the Bruce Hwy’s roll-
ing sugar-cane and banana plantations, the
hamlets that make up greater Mission Beach
are hidden amongst World Heritage rainfor-
est. The rainforest extends right to the Coral
Sea, giving this 14km-long palm-fringed
stretch of secluded inlets and wide, empty
beaches the castaway feel of a tropical island.
Although collectively referred to as Mis-
sion Beach or just ‘Mission’, the area com-
prises a sequence of individual hamlets
strung along the coast. Bingil Bay lies
4.8km north of Mission Beach proper
(sometimes called North Mission). Wongal-
ing Beach is 5km south; from here it’s a fur-
ther 5.5km south to South Mission Beach.
Most amenities are in Mission Beach proper
and Wongaling Beach; South Mission Beach
and Bingil Bay are mainly residential.
Mission Beach is one of the closest ac-
cess points to the Great Barrier Reef, and
the gateway to Dunk Island. Fanning out
around Mission are picturesque walking
tracks, which are fine places to see wildlife,
including cassowaries – in fact, Australia’s
highest density of cassowaries (around 40)
roam the surrounding rainforests.
To avoid an unexpected meeting with a
croc or stinger, don’t swim in any of Mission
Beach’s creeks – stick to the swimming en-
closures provided.
1 Sights & Activities
Adrenalin junkies flock to Mission Beach
for extreme and water-based sports, includ-
ing white-water rafting on the nearby Tully
River.
The walking in the area is superb. The
visitor centre stocks walking guides detail-
ing trails. From David St in central Mis-
sion Beach, the Ulysses Link – named for
the bright-blue Ulysses butterflies that flit
through the area – is a gentle 2km stroll
along the foreshore to Clump Point. Sweep-
ing views unfold from the Bicton Hill Track
(4km, two hours return) through Clump
Mountain National Park. The superb coastal
Kennedy Track (7km, four hours return)
leads past secluded Lovers Beach and a
lookout at Lugger Bay. Licuala State Forest
has a number of rainforest walks, including
a 10-minute children’s walk marked with
cassowary footprints, and the Rainforest
Circuit & Fan Palm Boardwalk (1.2km, 30
minutes return), with interpretive signage
and a cassowary display.
oBabinda Kayak Hire KAYAKING
(% 07-4067 2678; www.babindakayakhire.com.au;
330 Stager Rd, Babinda; half-day/full day $42/75 )
Easy yet breathtakingly beautiful kayaking
tours through permanently flowing moun-
tain streams in Wooroonooran National
Park. A bit of a must-do if you’re in the area.

oIngan Tours INDIGENOUS TOUR
(% 1300 728 067; www.ingan.com.au; adult/child
$120/60) An indigenous operator with im-
peccable credentials is causing a stir for
its ‘Spirit of the Rainforest’ tour (adult/
child $120/60, Tuesday, Thursday and Sat-
urday).
Jump the Beach SKYDIVING
(% 1800 444 568; www.jumpthebeach.com.
au; 9000/11,000/14,000ft tandem dives
$284/345/369) Mission Beach is one of the
most popular spots in Queensland to sky-
dive. Jump the Beach claims to offer ‘Aus-
tralia’s highest dive’.
Skydive Mission Beach SKYDIVING
(% 1800 800 840; www.skydivemissionbeach.
com; 9000/11,000/14,000ft tandem dives
$249/310/334) Skydive Mission Beach is part
of a seasoned, nationwide operation.
Calypso Dive DIVING
(% 07-4068 8432; www.calypsodive.com.au; per
person from $245) Experienced divers can join
trips to the Lady Bowen wreck. Calypso also
offers reef dives and PADI open-water cours-
es ($625). Alternatively, you can snorkel the
reef ($169).
Coral Sea Kayaking KAYAKING
(% 07-4068 9154; www.coralseakayaking.com;
half/full day $77/128) Coral Sea Kayaking is
run by a true travelling couple who excel in
guiding paddlers to Dunk Island and back.
Fishin’ Mission FISHING
(% 07-4088 6121; www.fishinmission.com.au; half/
full day $130/190) Relaxed yet thoroughly
professional fishing charters to either Dunk
Island or a handful of ‘secret’ reefs.
Mission Beach Charters WATER TOURS
(% 07-4068 7009; www.missionbeachcharters.
com.au; 1349c El Arish-Mission Beach Rd) Astute
operator with a whole raft of flexible prod-
ucts including Dunk Island drop-offs (and
all-important camping permits) and whale-
watching tours in season.
Mission Beach
Adventure Centre EQUIPMENT HIRE
(% 0429 469 330; www.missionbeachadventure-
centre.com.au; Seaview St, Mission Beach) The
‘hut on the beach’ offers bike hire ($20 per
half-day), kayak hire (singles/doubles $15/30
per hour), and, when the wind’s up, blokart-
ing ($30/50 per half-hour/hour).
4 09
4 Sleeping
The visitor centre has a list of booking
agents for holiday rentals. Hostels have
courtesy bus pick-ups.
4 Wongaling Beach
oScotty’s Mission Beach House HOSTEL $
(% 1800 665 567; www.scottysbeachhouse.com.
au; 167 Reid Rd; dm $24-29, d $61-71; a i W s )
Scotty’s is run by the kind of crowd who le-
gitimately love what they do and share that
passion with their guests. Includes impecca-
ble dorms and a lush pool area. A happen-
ing bar and restaurant, Scotty’s Bar & Grill
(mains $10 to $30, open dinner), welcomes
the outside world.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M
Hibiscus Lodge B&B B&B $$
(% 07-4068 9096; www.hibiscuslodge.com.au; 5
Kurrajong Cl; r $105-120) Only three rooms but
an abundance of grace from the hosts and a
luxurious setting above a bird-filled garden
remind you why you came to Mission in the
first place. The only requirement is to rise
for sunset drinks, and maybe the breakfast
,which is one of the best in town.
Licuala Lodge B&B $$
(% 07-4068 8194; www.licualalodge.com.au; 11
Mission Circle; s/d $99/135; W s ) Licuala is a
beautifully conceived B&B run by Mick and
Sue. Standing proud on timber poles, there
are five plush hotel-style rooms with floor-
boards that open onto a gorgeous shared
verandah.
To
S
Absolute Backpackers
li sewe
HOSTEL $
(% 07-4068 8317; www.absolutebackpackers.
snp
io
com.au; Wongaling Beach Rd; dm $22-26, d $58;
si n
v
ng
aiWs ) This popular hostel close to
i lBleeacto
the bus terminal is more like a low-key re-
sort than a party joint. It’s set in spacious
h M i s s i o n B e ac h
grounds and run by attentive, professional
staff. The kitchen is open 24 hours and the
dorm rooms are impeccable.
4 Mission Beach
Mission Beach Retreat HOSTEL $
(% 07-4088 6229; www.missionbeachretreat.com.
au; 49 Porters Promenade; dm $21-24, d $56;
aiWs ) It’s seen better days, but then
again so have most properties in this cy-
clone-prone region. The bedding is excellent
and there is a relaxed, intimate hostel vibe.
The local hospitality is disarmingly warm.
4 10
Mission Beach Ecovillage CABIN $$
(% 07-4068 7534; www.ecovillage.com.au; Clump
Point Rd; d $135-220; aWs ) Nestled on a
2-acre patch of banana tree–filled rainfor-
est running to the beach, this quiet, family-
friendly resort is a seductive introduction to
Mission Beach. The restaurant (mains $19,
open dinner Tuesday to Saturday) is deserv-
edly popular. Some bungalows have spas.
Rainforest Motel MOTEL $$
(% 07-4068 7556; www.missionbeachrainforestmo-
tel.com; 9 Endeavour Ave; s/d $98/119; aiWs )
Terrific-value motel just a short walk from
the Mission Beach shops, yet secreted away
in rainforest foliage. The friendly owners
take great pride in presenting the cool, tiled
rooms. Free bikes available.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M
Castaways Resort & Spa RESORT $$$
(% 1800 079 002; www.castaways.com.au; Pacific
Pde; d $145-185, 1-/2-bedroom units $205/295;
a i W s ) Castaways’ cheapest rooms don’t
have balconies, so it’s worth splashing out
a bit more for one of the ‘Coral Sea’ rooms,
with extended deck and day bed. Even the
units are small, but perks include two elon-
gated pools, a luxurious spa (www.driftspa.
com.au) and live entertainment at the bar-
restaurant (mains $12 to $32, open break-
fast, lunch and dinner).
Sejala on the Beach CABIN $$$
(% 07-4088 6699; http://missionbeachholidays.
com.au/sejala; 26 Pacific Pde; d $260; as ) Inti-
mate rainforest chic in these three huts (go
for one of the two facing the beach) that are
Toi ss
Eat
perfect for couples. All have decks with pri-
wnsv
vate barbecues.
i ng
i o n i lBleeacto
4 Bingil Bay
Sanctuary CABIN $
(% 1800 777 012, 07-4088 6064; www.sanctuaryat-
h M i ss i o n B e ac h
mission.com; 72 Holt Rd; dm $35, s/d huts $65/70,
cabins $145/165; h mid-Apr–mid-Dec; iWs ) S
You can sleep surrounded only by flyscreen
on a platform in a simple hut, or opt for
one of the cabins, whose glass-walled show-
ers have floor-to-ceiling rainforest views. In
addition to walks you can take a yoga class
($15) or indulge in a massage ($80 per hour).
Cook in the self-catering kitchen or dine on
wholesome fare at the restaurant (mains $19-
33, open breakfast, lunch and dinner). Eco-
initiatives include the resort’s own sewerage
system, harvesting rainwater and biodegrad-
able detergents. The resort is reached by a
steep 600m-long rainforest walking track
from the car park (4WD pick-up available).
Treehouse HOSTEL $
(% 07-4068 7137; Frizelle Rd; unpowered sites $12,
dm/d $25/55; iWs ) Musical instruments
and no TV set the chilled-out scene at this
timber YHA-associated hostel high in the
rainforest.
5 Eating
5 Wongaling Beach
oCafe Rustica ITALIAN $$
(% 07-4068 9111; Wongaling Beach Rd; mains $18-
25; h 5pm-late Wed-Sat, 10am-late Sun; v ) We
loved the homemade pasta and traditional
crispy-crust pizzas prepared by this friendly
couple at the Wongaling beach shack.
Na Na Thai THAI $$
(% 07-4068 9101; 165 Reid St; mains $16-26;
h 5pm-8.30pm Tue-Sun) Na Na serves exqui-
site northern Thai food in a laid-back set-
ting. It’s run by a friendly Aussie bloke who
graciously does the rounds and intimately
knows his menu.
5 Mission Beach
Early Birds Cafe CAFE $
(Shop 2, 46 Porter Promenade; mains $6-15;
h 6am-3pm, closed Wed; v ) The pick of the
breakfast joints and always busy.
New Deli CAFE, DELI $
(Shop 1, 47 Porter Promenade; mains $8-16;
h 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri; v ) The place to stock
up on goodies for a gourmet picnic.
The Garage MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-4088 6280; Donkin Lane; mezze plate $17;
h 7am-late; av ) The hottest new spot in the
Village Green serves delicious ‘sliders’ (mini
burgers), free-pour cocktails ($14), good
coffee, cakes and tapas. Diners congregate
around dark wooden tables in the courtyard.
Live music rolls through the busy periods.
Shrubbery Taverna SEAFOOD $$
(% 07-4068 7803; David St; mains $19-36; h 9am-
9pm Mon-Thu, 9am-late Fri-Sun) The most
dependable restaurant in South Mission
is a real local hang-out that specialises in
seafood. Service was a little slack when we
visited but the shaded bamboo gardens are
a delightful place to chill. Live music on Fri-
day night and Sunday afternoon.
 411

THE CASSOWARY
The flightless cassowary is as tall as a grown man, has three toes, a blue-and-purple
head, red wattles (fleshy lobes hanging from its neck), a helmet-like horn and unusual
black feathers, which look more like ratty hair. It could certainly be confused with an
ageing rocker. Traditional gender roles are reversed, with the male bird incubating the
egg and rearing the chicks alone. The Australian cassowary is also known as the south-
ern cassowary, though it’s only found in the north of Queensland. It makes sense when
you realise that other species are found in Papua New Guinea – to the north of Australia.
The cassowary is a vital link in the rainforest ecosystem. It is the only animal capable
of dispersing the seeds of more than 70 species of tree whose fruits are too large for
other rainforest animals to digest and pass.
The cassowary is an endangered species; there are less than 1000 left. Its biggest
threat is loss of habitat, and eggs and chicks are vulnerable to dogs and wild pigs. A
number of birds are also hit by cars: heed road signs warning drivers to be cassowary-
aware. You’re most likely to see cassowaries around Mission Beach and the Cape Tribu-
lation section of the Daintree National Park. They can be aggressive, particularly if they

Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef D

have chicks. Do not approach them; if one threatens you, don’t run – give the bird right-
of-way and try to keep something solid between you and it, preferably a tree.
Next to the Mission Beach visitor centre, there are cassowary-conservation displays
at the Wet Tropics Environment Centre (% 07-4068 7197; www.wettropics.gov.au;
Porter Promenade, Porter Promenade; h 10am-4pm), which is staffed by volunteers from the
Community for Cassowary & Coastal Conservation (C4; www.cassowaryconserva-
tion.asn.au). Proceeds from gift-shop purchases go towards buying cassowary habitat.
The website www.savethecassowary.org.au is also a good source of info.

day return, 3hr 3-island tour $50 Wed & Fri

5 Bingil Bay 12.30pm) from Wongaling Beach at 9am, 10am
Bingil Bay Cafe CAFE $$ and 11am; depart from Dunk Island at noon and
(29 Bingil Bay Rd; mains $14-23; h breakfast, lunch 3.30pm.
& dinner; v ) You won’t miss this colourful
corner store with a positive vibe and a host
of music and cultural activities buzzing from Dunk Island
the porch. The food is eclectic and break- Known to the Djiru Aboriginal people as
fast is the highlight. Don’t sweat the casual Coonanglebah (the island of peace and plen-
To
Inufo

service. ty), Dunk is pretty much your ideal tropical

wnsv
nkr mat

island. The island’s rainforest walks are

Is li land

88 Information invigorating, and while some people run

The efficient Mission Beach visitor centre the full island circuit (9.2km), taking the
iloento M i ss i o n B e ac h

(% 07-4068 7099; www.missionbeachtour- sometimes difficult track slowly lets you

ism.com; Porters Promenade; h 9am-4.45pm
Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) has reams of info in
multiple languages.
88 Getting There & Around
Greyhound Australia (% 1300 473 946; www.
greyhound.com.au) and Premier Motor Service
(% 13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au) buses
stop in Wongaling Beach next to the giant ‘big
cassowary’; fares with Greyhound/Premier are
$26 to Cairns, $40 to Townsville.
Mission Beach Adventure Centre rents out
bikes (per half-day/day $10/20).
Call % 13 10 08 for a taxi.
You can catch a water taxi (% 07-4068 8310;
71 Banfield Pde, Wongaling Beach; $35 same
check out secluded beaches. See the fanning
Hinchinbrook Channel from Mt Kootaloo
(271m, 5.6km).
The island’s resort is currently closed
due to cyclone damage, though camping
has re­opened. Permits for the DERM cam-
pground (% 13 74 68; www.derm.qld.gov.au; per
person $5.15) need to be organised through
Mission Beach Charters (% 07-4068 7009;
www.missionbeachcharters.com.au).
Mission Beach Dunk Island Water Taxi
(% 07-4068 8310; Banfield Pde, Wongaling Beach;
adult/child return $35/18), departing from
Wongaling Beach, makes the 20-minute trip
to Dunk Island.
412
Mission Beach to Cairns
Mountains, cane fields, cane-train tracks
and forest run alongside the road from Mis-
sion Beach to Cairns. For variety, take the al-
ternative ‘Canecutter Way’ route to Innisfail
via the cute towns of Silkwood and Mena
Creek – 42km of true sugar-cane country.
Mena Creek’s main claim to fame is the
unusual Paronella Park (% 07-4065 0000;
www.paronellapark.com.au; Japoonvale Rd; adult/
child $38/19; h 9am-7.30pm), which features
the ruins of a Spanish castle hand-built in
the 1930s. Floods, fire and moist tropics
have rendered these mossy remains almost
medieval. Entry includes free camping in
the adjacent caravan park and both a day
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M
and an evening tour. Timber cabins (doubles
$80) are also available.
Further north at South Johnstone, the
charming little art gallery, cafe and second-
hand bookshop Off the Rails (Hynes St; mains
$8-18; h 10am-5pm Wed-Sun; v ) has great cof-
fee and uses local produce in dishes like
marinated-veggie platters.
Innisfail
POP 10,143
A wonderful main street meanders through
this busy farming town to the wide John-
stone River. Art-deco buildings abound, as
cyclones damaged many buildings in the
1920s and 1930s, and the replacements were
constructed in the style of that time, turn-
ing Innisfail into the art-deco capital of Aus-
To
G
tralia. You can get a self-guided art-deco tour
ei ss
wnsv
map from the visitor information centre
ttiio
(% 07-4061 2655; www.innisfailtourism.com.au; cnr
ngn i lBTleheac
Eslick St & Bruce Hwy; h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-
12.30pm Sat & Sun).
Innisfail’s best lodging option, the Bar-
er
to
rier Reef Motel (% 07-4061 4988; www.barri-
h
e &
to
M iAss
erreefmotel.com.au; Bruce Hwy; s/d $110/120, units
$150-170; aiWs ) has 41 airy, tiled rooms,
C
raoi o
a restaurant (mains $28 to $30.50, open
iurnnd
breakfast and dinner) and a bar. The Codge
ns
B e ac h
Lodge (% 07-4061 8055; www.codgelodge.com;
63 Rankin St; dm $30; aiWs ) is a cheerful
hostel set in an atmospheric Queenslander
with a wide timber verandah. Plenty of farm
workers bunk down for an extended stay,
but it also welcomes overnight travellers.
Everything is locally sourced or organic
at Monsoon Cruising (% 0427 776 663; 1 In-
nisfail Wharf; mains $10-16; h 10am-5pm Wed-Sat
Mar-Dec; v ), a moored cruiser serving bread
baked fresh on the boat and black tiger
prawns straight off the trawlers. Oliveri’s
Continental Deli (41 Edith St; sandwiches $8-9;
h 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat; v ) is an
Innisfail institution serving awesome sand-
wiches.
Greyhound Australia (% 1300 473 946;
www.greyhound.com.au) calls into Innisfail on
the Brisbane–Cairns route, with six services
daily stopping at King George St. Premier
Motor Service (% 13 34 10; www.premierms.
com.au) has one daily service to Innisfail on
the same route.
Around Innisfail
From Innisfail the Palmerston Hwy winds
west up to the magical Atherton Tableland,
passing through the rainforest of Wooroo-
nooran National Park, which has creeks,
waterfalls, scenic walking tracks and a self-
registration camping ground (Henrietta
Creek; per person/family $5.85/21.80) at Henri-
etta Creek (38km from Innisfail), just off the
road.
About 27km along the Palmerston Hwy
(signposted 4km northwest of Innisfail),
the Mamu Rainforest Canopy Walkway
(Palmerston Hwy; adult/child $20/10; h 9.30am-
5.30pm, last entry 4.30pm) gives you a bird’s-
eye perspective from its 100-step, 37m-high
tower. Allow at least an hour to complete the
2.5km, wheelchair-accessible circuit.
At the southeastern corner of the park,
Crawford’s Lookout has views of the
white water of the North Johnstone River,
but it’s worth the walk down to view it at
closer range. Among the park’s walks is the
lovely Nandroya Falls Circuit (7.2km, three
to four hours), which crosses a swimming
hole. A number of platypus-viewing areas
are marked in the park; first or last light of
day are the best times to spot them.
For a more challenging walk, you might
take on Queensland’s highest peak, Mt Bar-
tle Frere (1657m). Sitting inside Wooroo-
nooran National Park, it falls within the
dramatic Bellenden Ker range, which skirts
the Bruce Hwy between Innisfail and Cairns.
Experienced walkers can embark on the Mt
Bartle Frere Summit Track (15km, two
days return), which leads from the Josephine
Falls car park to the summit. There’s also a
10km (eight-hour) return walk to Broken
Nose. Pick up a trail guide from the nearest
visitor centre or contact QPWS (% 13 13 04;
www.epa.qld.gov.au). Self-registration camp-
ing (per person/family $5.85/21.80) is per-
mitted along the trail.

The Palmerston Hwy continues west to
Millaa Millaa, passing the entrance to the
Waterfall Circuit just before the town.
CAIRNS & AROUND
Cairns has a heady reputation as Australia’s
reef-diving capital, with dazzling marine life
and coral-fringed islands a short boat ride
offshore. It’s also tropical north Queens-
land’s party central. Yet lush rainforest,
waterfalls, volcanic-crater lakes and beach
communities lie just beyond the city limits,
as do the Atherton Tableland’s gourmet food
producers, farms and orchards. The mag-
nificent Daintree National Park stretches
up the coast, its rainforest tumbling right
413
overlooking the marina. And if you do want
some sand, it’s a short local bus ride or easy
drive to Cairns’ northern beaches.
For many visitors this is the end of the
line on the east-coast jaunt (or the start for
those flying into Cairns’ international air-
port), and the city is awash with bars and
nightclubs, as well as accommodation and
eateries in all price ranges. It’s a city that’s
more board shorts than briefcases, and you
can walk straight from the nightclub to the
pier and catch one of the many morning
boats that make the daily island or reef, div-
ing or snorkelling pilgrimage.
1 Sights
Cairns Foreshore & Lagoon WATERFRONT
(h Lagoon 6am-10pm Thu-Tue, noon-10pm Wed)

Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C

onto white-sand beaches. Further north, the
Bloomfield Track from Cape Tribulation to
Cooktown is one of Australia’s great 4WD
journeys.
Cairns
POP 163,000
Cairns has come a long way from struggling
cane town to international resort city. It may
not have a beach, but the mudflats and man-
groves along the Esplanade foreshore have
been replaced with a multimillion-dollar
development of parks and the dazzling salt-
water lagoon, with top-quality restaurants
F In the absence of a beach, sunbathers
flock around Cairns’ shallow but spectacu-
lar saltwater swimming lagoon on the city’s
reclaimed foreshore. The artificial 4800-sq-
metre lagoon is patrolled by lifeguards and
illuminated at night.
Northwest from the lagoon, the board-
walk promenade, which stretches for al-
most 3km, has picnic areas, free barbecues
and playgrounds lining the foreshore.
Flecker Botanic Gardens GARDENS
(www.cairns.qld.gov.au; Collins Ave; h 7.30am-
5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm Sat & Sun, infor-
mation centre 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2.30pm

CAIRNS REGION IN… S iagi r

Two Days
h ns
ts & A r o u nd

Rise early for a stroll through the Flecker Botanic Gardens and the Tanks Art Cen-
tre. Save the afternoon for an Aboriginal cultural experience at the Tjapukai Cultural
Park. Afterwards, raise a glass with locals and travellers at the capacious outdoor bar at
Gilligan’s. Grab a snack there, or wander the city in search of your favourite cuisine.
On day two, head way out to the Great Barrier Reef on a full-day cruise. Get an
eyeful of coral gardens and iridescent fish and marine life by snorkelling or diving, or
stay dry in a glass-bottom boat. By night, mingle with newly christened reef lovers over
dinner and drinks at the Salt House.

Four Days
Spend the third day basking on an island – snorkelling the reef and exploring the rain-
forest of Green Island, enjoying the view from the summit of Fitzroy Island or play-
ing castaway on the coral-fringed Frankland Islands. Back on the mainland, take an
early-evening stroll along Cairns Esplanade, followed by a decadent meal at Ochre or
Fetta’s Greek Tavern.
On day four, catch the Scenic Railway to Kuranda, walk into a flurry of winged beau-
ties at the Australian Butterfly Sanctuary and get a bird’s-eye rainforest view on the
way back by returning on the Skyrail. Alternatively, take an eco-accredited tour to the
Atherton Tableland or Cape Tribulation and the magical Daintree rainforest.
 414
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CULTURAL CENTRE
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(% 07-4042 9999; www.tjapukai.com.au; Kamerun-

ga Rd; adult/child $36/18, Tjapukai by Night adult/
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child $99/49.50; h 9am-5pm, Tjapukai by Night

7-9.30pm) This indigenous-owned cultural
Cairns Golf Club (7.5km)
Cairns Coconut
Caravan Resort 7km);

extravaganza features the Creation Theatre,

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holograms and actors, a dance theatre and

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a gallery, as well as boomerang- and spear-

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ch lessons. A fireside corroboree is the centre-
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piece of the Tjapukai by Night dinner-and-
show deal.
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le centre, just off the Captain Cook Hwy near
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m the Skyrail terminal; transfers are available

Au
for an extra charge.
6
5
4 16
Cairns
æ Sights
1 Cairns Foreshore ....................................F4
2 Cairns Regional Gallery..........................G1
3 Centre of Contemporary Arts ...............E4
4 Reef Teach ..............................................F2
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
5 Cairns Dive Centre .................................G1
6 Cairns Seaplanes................................... G6
7 Deep Sea Divers Den............................. C5
8 Down Under Dive ................................... D6
9 Great Adventures .................................. G5
10 Mike Ball Dive Expeditions .....................E5
11 Passions of Paradise ............................. G5
12 Pro-Dive...................................................F2
13 Skydive the Reef Cairns .........................E2
14 Tusa Dive.................................................G1
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C
ÿ Sleeping
15 201 Lake Street...................................... D3
16 Acacia Court .......................................... D2
17 Balinese .................................................. D3
18 Bay Village.............................................. D3
19 Cairns Central YHA ................................E3
20 Cairns Girls Hostel..................................E4
21 Cairns Holiday Park............................... A3
22 Cairns Sharehouse ................................ D6
23 Dreamtime Travellers Rest....................E6
24 Floriana Guesthouse ............................. D2
25 Floriana Villas......................................... D2
26 Gilligan's ..................................................F2
27 Global Backpackers ............................... F1
28 Global Backpackers (Waterfront) .........F5
29 Hotel Cairns ............................................E4
30 Inn Cairns ................................................F2
31 Mid City ...................................................E6
32 Northern Greenhouse ............................E2
33 Shangri-La.............................................. G5
S iagi r
34 Travellers Oasis ..................................... D6
35 Tropical Queenslander.......................... C2
h ns
36 Villa Vaucluse..........................................E5
ts & A r o u nd
37 Waterfront Terraces.............................. C2
ú Eating
38 Asian Foods Australia ............................F2
Centre of ¨
Contemporary Arts GALLERY, THEATRE
(www.coca.org.au; 96 Abbott St; h 10am-5pm Mon-
Sat) F CoCA houses the KickArts (www.
kickarts.com.au) galleries of local contempo-
rary visual art, as well as the Jute Theatre
(www.jute.com.au) and the End Credits Film
Club (www.endcredits.com.au). The gift shop
here has a stellar range of prints, craft and
jewellery by Aussie artists...all at reasonable
prices too.
Cairns Central Shopping
Centre ........................................ (see 63)
Charlie's .........................................(see 16)
39 Cherry Blossom .....................................G2
40 Dolce & Caffe.......................................... G1
41 Fetta's Greek Taverna ........................... F2
42 Fusion Organics ......................................E1
43 Ganbaranba ............................................G2
44 Green Ant Cantina.................................. E6
45 La Fettuccina .......................................... F2
46 Marinades ...............................................G3
47 Meldrum's Pies in Paradise ................... F2
48 Night Markets ......................................... F5
49 Ochre....................................................... E2
Perrotta's at the Gallery ................ (see 2)
50 Rusty's Markets ..................................... F3
51 Sushi Paradise........................................ F2
û Drinking & Nightlife
52 Court House Hotel ................................. G1
Gilligan's........................................ (see 26)
53 Grand Hotel ............................................ E3
54 Heritage Nightclub .................................G2
Hotel Cairns .................................. (see 29)
55 PJ O'Briens ............................................. F2
56 Salt House ............................................. G4
57 The Jack.................................................. F3
58 Vibe Bar & Lounge .................................G2
59 Woolshed Chargrill & Saloon .................F1
ý Entertainment
60 12 Bar Blues Jazz ................................... E2
BCC Cinemas ............................... (see 63)
61 Event Cinemas Cairns ............................F1
Jute Theatre ................................... (see 3)
62 Pullman Reef Hotel Casino....................G5
þ Shopping
Absells Chart Map Centre ............. (see 4)
63 Cairns Central Shopping
Centre ..................................................E6
64 Mud Markets.......................................... G4
Night Markets ............................... (see 48)
65 Woolworths.............................................G2
Crystal Cascades & ¨
Lake Morris WATERFALLS, LAKE
About 20km from Cairns, the Crystal Cas-
cades are a series of beautiful waterfalls
and (croc-free) pools. The area is accessed
by a 1.2km (30-minute) pathway. Crystal
Cascades is linked to Lake Morris (the city’s
reservoir) by a steep rainforest walking trail
(allow three hours return). It starts near the
picnic area at Crystal Cascades and climbs
steadily uphill, coming out on Lake Mor-

ris Rd, about 300m from Copperlode Dam
(turn right).
Reef Teach INTERPRETIVE CENTRE
(% 07-4031 7794; http://reefteach.wordpress.com;
2nd fl, Main Street Arcade, 85 Lake St; adult/
child $18/9; h lectures 5.30-8.30pm Tue-Sat) S
Before heading out to the reef, take your
knowledge to greater depths at this excel-
lent and informative centre, where marine
experts explain how to identify specific types
of coral and fish and how to treat the reef
with respect.
2 Activities
A plethora of tour operators runs adventure-
based activities from Cairns, most offering
transfers to/from your accommodation.
AJ Hackett Bungee & Minjin BUNGY JUMPING
(% 1800 622 888; www.ajhackett.com; McGregor
Rd; bungy jumps $169, minjin swings $89, bungee &
minjin swing combos $225; h 10am-5pm) Bungy
from the purpose-built tower or swing from
the trees on the minjin (a harness swing).
Rates include transfers.
Cable Ski WATERSKIING
(% 07-4038 1304; www.cableskicairns.com.au;
Captain Cook Hwy; adult/child per hr $39/34, per
day $69/64; h 10am-6pm) Learn to waterski,
wakeboard or kneeboard tethered to a cable
(not a boat) at this water-sports park near
the Skyrail.
Cairns Golf Club GOLF
(% 07-4037 6777; www.cairnsgolfclub.com.au;
Grundy St, Woree) A scenic 18-hole course, 7km
south of the city centre, established in 1923.
Hires out equipment; rates depend on the
day and tee time.
Fishing Cairns FISHING
(% 0448 563 586; www.fishingcairns.com.au) Ar-
ranges river, reef and game fishing trips.
T Tours
A staggering 600-plus tours bus, boat, fly
and drive out of Cairns each day. You’ll see
booking agencies on nearly every corner in
the city. Popular tours include the ones to
Green, Fitzroy and the Frankland Islands
and day tours to Lizard Island.
Great Barrier Reef
Reef operators generally include transport,
lunch and snorkelling gear in their tour
prices. Many have diving options, including
introductory dives requiring no prior experi-
4 17
ence. When choosing a tour, consider the ves-
sel (catamaran or sailing ship), its capacity
(from six to 300 people), what extras are of-
fered and the destination. The outer reefs are
more pristine; inner-reef areas can be patchy,
showing signs of damage from humans, coral
bleaching and crown-of-thorns starfish. In
most cases you get what you pay for. Some
operators offer the dearer option of a trip in a
glass-bottomed boat or semisubmersible.
The majority of boats depart from the
Pier Marina and Reef Fleet Terminal at
about 8am, returning around 6pm. As well
as the popular day trips, a number of op-
erators also offer multiday live-aboard trips,
which include specialised dive opportunities
such as night diving. Dive-course companies
also offer tours.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C
Several dive boats offer helmet diving
(from $140). Hoses attached to the helmet de-
liver air, so you can breathe normally. Because
you’re ‘walking’ on a submerged platform, it’s
ideal for nonswimmers, kids over 12 and any-
one who doesn’t like to get their hair wet.
Coral Princess CRUISE
(% 1800 079 545, 07-4040 9999; www.coralprincess.
com.au) Three- to seven-night cruises between
Cairns, Pelorus Island and Lizard Island (re-
turn from $1347 per person, twin share).
Great Adventures SNORKELLING, TOUR
(% 07-4044 9944; www.greatadventures.com.au;
Reef Fleet Terminal, 1 Spence St; adult/child from
$201/101) Fast catamaran day trips to a float-
ing pontoon for snorkelling, with an optional
stopover on Green Island (from $222/111),
Act
as well as semisubmersibles and a glass-
a i ri vns
bottomed boat. Diving add-on available.
i t i&e sA r o u nd
SEASONAL WORK
Cairns is one of the most popular plac-
es on the east coast to pick up casual
work in the tourism and hospitality sec-
tors. Those bilingual in Japanese, Man-
darin, Korean and German can pick up
tour-translating work. And, of course,
Cairns is a magnet for dive instructors
and the like.
For those planning to stick around
in Cairns for a month or more to work,
dive or study, look for a room via
Cairns Sharehouse (% 07-4041 1875;
www.cairns-sharehouse.com; 17 Scott St; s
per week from $130, tw & d per person per
week from $110; aW s ).
418

DIVE COURSES
Cairns is the scuba-diving capital of the Great Barrier Reef and a popular place to attain
Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) open-water certification. There’s
a plethora of courses on offer, from budget four-day courses that combine pool training
and reef dives to five-day courses that include two days’ pool theory and three days’ living
aboard a boat, diving less-frequented parts of the reef. Many operators are multilingual.
All operators require you to have a dive medical certificate, which they can arrange
(around $60). A reef tax ($40 to $80) is payable as well. Many operators also offer ad-
vanced courses for certified divers. Dive schools include the following:
¨¨Cairns Dive Centre (% 07-4051 0294; www.cairnsdive.com.au; 121 Abbott St) Long-
running operator affiliated with Scuba Schools International (SSI) rather than PADI. Live-
aboard courses (four/five days $680/820), live-aboard (from $310) and day tours ($180).
¨¨Deep Sea Divers Den (% 07-4046 7333; www.diversden.com.au; 319 Draper St) Long-
established school running multiday live-aboard courses and trips from $445.
¨¨Down Under Dive (% 07-4052 8300, 1800 079 099; www.downunderdive.com.au; 287
Draper St) Four- and five-day live-aboard open-water courses from $450 to $660.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C

¨¨Pro-Dive (% 07-4031 5255; www.prodivecairns.com; cnr Grafton & Shields St; live-aboard
trips from $1250, open-water courses from $880) One of Cairns’ most experienced operators
with excellent staff. Runs a comprehensive five-day learn-to-dive course incorporating a
three-day live-aboard trip for $880. Dive live-aboards available from $1250.
¨¨Tusa Dive (% 07-4047 9100; www.tusadive.com; cnr Shields St & The Esplanade)
Inexpensive four-day learn-to-dive courses ($670) including two day trips’ diving.

Passions of Paradise DIVING, SNORKELLING Cairns Seaplanes SCENIC FLIGHTS

(% 1800 111 346, 07-4041 1600; www.passions.com.
au; adult/child $139/89) Sexy sailing catamaran
taking you to Michaelmas Cay and Paradise
Reef for snorkelling or diving.
Silverswift DIVING, SNORKELLING
(% 07-4044 9944; www.silverseries.com.au; adult/
child from $180/130) Popular catamaran for
snorkelling/diving three outer reefs.
To
(% 07-4031 4307; www.cairnsseaplanes.com; 2/3
Abbott St; 30min flights from $269) Scenic reef
flights, including to Green Island.
White-Water Rafting
The excitement level of white-water rafting
down the Barron, Russell and North John-
stone Rivers is hitched to the season: the wet-
ter the weather, the whiter your water. The

Tully River has rapids year-round (see p407).

au

Spirit of Freedom
i rrns

DIVING
Trips are graded from armchair (grade one) to
(% 07-4047 9150; www.spiritoffreedom.com.au;
s & A r o u nd

white knuckle (grade five).

3-/4-/7-day trips from $1475/1800/3025) Three-
deck vessel with live-aboard trips to Cod
Hole and Ribbon Reefs.
Sunlover DIVING, SNORKELLING
(% 07-4050 1333; www.sunlover.com.au; adult/
child/family $180/65/425) Fast family-friendly
catamaran rides to a snorkelling pontoon on
the outer Moore Reef. Options include semi-
submersible trips and helmet diving.
Scenic Flights
Great Barrier Reef ¨
Helicopters SCENIC FLIGHTS
(% 07-4081 8888; www.gbrhelicopters.com.au;
20/60min flight per person from $260/559) Heli-
copter flights departing from Green Island
(10 minutes $148) to an hour-long reef and
rainforest trip.
Foaming Fury RAFTING
(% 07-4031 7460, 1800 801 540; www.foamingfury.
com.au) Full-day trips on the Russell River
($149); half-day on the Barron ($129), with
options for kids aged over 10.
Raging Thunder RAFTING
(% 07-4030 7900; www.ragingthunder.com.au; raft-
ing trips from $133) Full-day Tully trips (stand-
ard $195, ‘Xtreme’ $225) and half-day Bar-
ron trips ($133).
Tubing
Aussie Drifterz TUBING
(% 0401 318 475; www.aussiedrifterz.net; half-day
tours adult/child $69/49) Float in an inner tube
along beautiful Behana Gorge.
(Continued on page 425)
 4 19

PATRICK DANCEL / GETTY IMAGES ©

The Great
Barrier Reef
Each year, more than 1.5 million visitors come to
this World Heritage–listed area that stretches across
2000km of coastline. Diving and snorkelling are just ¨¨Gateways to ¨
some of the ways to experience this wonderful and rich the Reef
ecosystem. There’s also sailing, scenic flights and idyllic ¨¨Top Reef
Encounters
days exploring the reef’s gateway towns and stunning
¨¨Nature’s ¨
islands. Theme Park

Above Aerial view of the Great

Barrier Reef
4 20

Gateways

AUSCAPE / UIG / GETTY IMAGES ©

to the Reef
There are numerous ways to approach
Australia’s massive undersea kingdom.
You can head to a popular gateway town
and join an organised tour, sign up for a
multiday sailing or diving trip exploring
less-travelled outer fringes of the reef,
or fly out to a remote island, where you’ll
have the reef largely to yourself.

The Whitsundays
Home to turquoise waters, coral
gardens and palm-fringed beaches, the
Whitsundays have many options for reef-
exploring: base yourself on an island, go
sailing or stay on Airlie Beach and island-
hop on day trips.

Cairns
The most popular gateway to the reef,
Cairns has dozens of boat operators 1. Clownfish 2. Airlie Beach (p386) 3. Reef HQ Aquarium
offering day trips with snorkelling as (p395), Townsville
well as multiday reef explorations on live-
aboard vessels. For the uninitiated, Cairns
is a good place to learn to dive.

Port Douglas
An hour’s drive north of Cairns, Port
Douglas is a laid-back beach town with
dive boats heading out to over a dozen
sites, including more pristine outer reefs,
such as Agincourt Reef.

Townsville
Australia’s largest tropical city is far from
the outer reef (2½ hours by boat) but
has some exceptional draws: access to
Australia’s best wreck dive, an excellent
aquarium, marine-themed museums, plus
multiday live-aboard dive boats departing
from here.

Southern Reef Islands

For an idyllic getaway off the beaten
path, book a trip to one of several remote
reef-fringed islands on the southern edge
of the Great Barrier Reef. You’ll find
fantastic snorkelling and diving right off
the island.
4 21

ULLA LOHMANN / GETTY IMAGES ©

PETER WALTON / GETTY IMAGES ©
 WILL GRAY / GETTY IMAGES ©
4 22
 423

Top Reef

TANYA PUNTTI / GETTY IMAGES ©

Encounters
Donning a mask and fins and getting an
up-close look at this marine wonderland
is one of the best ways to experience the
Great Barrier Reef. You can get a different
take aboard a glass-bottomed boat tour,
on a scenic flight or on a land-based reef
walk.

Diving & Snorkelling

The classic way to see the Great Barrier
Reef is to board a catamaran and visit
several different coral-rich spots on a long
day trip. Nothing quite compares to that
first underwater glimpse, whether diving
or snorkelling.

Semi-submersibles & Boats

A growing number of reef operators
(especially around Cairns) offer semi-
submersible or glass-bottomed boat tours,
which give cinematic views of coral, rays,
fish, turtles and sharks – without you
ever having to get wet.
1. Whitehaven Beach (p393) 2. Helicopter scenic flight over
Whitsunday Islands (p392) 3. Snorkelling, Cairns (p418)
Sailing
You can escape the crowds and see some
spectacular reef scenery aboard a sailboat.
Experienced mariners can hire a bareboat,
others can join a multiday tour – both
GLENN VAN DER KNIJFF / GETTY IMAGES ©

are easily arranged from Airlie Beach or

Port Douglas.

Reef Walking
Many reefs of the southern Great Barrier
Reef are exposed at low tide, allowing
visitors to walk on the reef top (on sandy
tracks between living coral). This can be
a fantastic way to learn about marine life,
especially if accompanied by a naturalist
guide.

Scenic Flights
Get a bird’s-eye view of the vast coral reef
and its cays and islands from a scenic
flight. You can sign up for a helicopter
tour (offered from Cairns) or a seaplane
tour (particularly memorable over the
Whitsundays).
4 24
Nature’s Theme Park
Home to some of the greatest biodiversity
of any ecosystem on earth, the Great
Barrier Reef is a marine wonderland.
You’ll find 30-plus species of marine
mammals along with countless species
of fish, coral, molluscs and sponges.
Above the water, 200 bird species and
118 butterfly species have been recorded
on reef islands and cays.
Common fish species include dusky
butterfly fish, which are a rich navy blue
with sulphur-yellow noses and back fins;
large graphic turkfish, with luminescent
pastel coats; teeny neon damsels, with
darting flecks of electric blue; and six-
banded angelfish, with blue tails, yellow
bodies and tiger stripes. Rays, including
the spotted eagle ray, are worth looking
out for.
JEFF HUNTER / GETTY IMAGES ©
Sea turtle
The reef is also a haven to many marine
mammals, such as whales, dolphins
and dugongs. Dugongs are listed as
vulnerable, and a significant number of
them live in Australia’s northern waters;
the reef is home to around 15% of the
global population. Humpback whales
migrate from Antarctica to the reef’s
warm waters to breed between May and
October. Minke whales can be seen off
the coast from Cairns to Lizard Island in
June and July. Porpoises and killer and
pilot whales also make their home here.
One of the reef’s most-loved inhabitants
is the sea turtle. Six of the world’s seven
species (all endangered) live on the
reef and lay eggs on the islands’ sandy
beaches in spring or summer.

(Continued from page 418)
Ballooning
The dawn skies above Cairns and the high-
lands see a multitude of balloons seemingly
suspended in the air. Most flights take off
from the Mareeba region in the Atherton
Tableland and include champagne breakfast
afterwards.
Hot Air Cairns BALLOONING
(% 07-4039 9900; www.hotair.com.au; 30min
flights from $235) Balloon flights over the lush
Atherton Tableland; prices include pick-up
and drop-off.
Skydiving
Skydive the Reef Cairns SKYDIVING
(% 1800 800 840; www.skydivethereefcairns.com.
au; 59 Sheridan St; tandem jumps 9000/14,000ft
$264/349) A 9000ft jump gives you up to
28 seconds’ freefalling, while jumping at
14,000ft gives you over 60 seconds plum-
meting back to earth.
Atherton Tableland
Food Trail Tours FOOD TOUR
(% 07-4041 1522; www.foodtrailtours.com.au;
adult/child from $159/80; h Mon-Sat) Taste your
way around the tableland, visiting farms
producing macadamias, tropical-fruit wine,
cheese, chocolate and coffee.
On the Wallaby OUTDOORS
(% 07-4033 6575; www.onthewallaby.com; day/over-
night tours $99/169) Excellent activity-based
tours including cycling, hiking and canoeing.
Uncle Brian’s Tours GUIDED TOUR
(% 07-4033 6575; www.unclebrian.com.au; tours
$109; h Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat) Lively small-group
day trips covering forests, waterfalls and lakes.
Cape Tribulation & the Daintree
After the Great Barrier Reef, Cape Trib is the
next most popular day trip – usually includ-
ing a cruise on the Daintree River. Access is
via a well-signposted sealed road, so don’t
discount hiring your own vehicle.
Billy Tea Bush Safaris ECOTOUR
(% 07-4032 0077; www.billytea.com.au; day trips
adult/child $185/135) Exciting eco day tours
to Cape Trib and along the 4WD Bloomfield
Track to Emmagen Creek. Also offers tours
to Chillagoe, Cooktown and Cape York.
BTS Tours OUTDOORS
(% 07-4099 5665; www.btstours.com.au; day
trips adult/child $165/120) Small-group tours,
425
including swimming and canoeing to the
Daintree River and Mossman Gorge.
Cape Trib Connections GUIDED TOUR
(% 07-4032 0500; www.capetribconnections.com;
day trips adult/child $119/99) Includes Moss-
man Gorge and Cape Tribulation Beach.
Also overnight tours (from $135).
Trek North Safaris GUIDED TOUR
(% 07-4041 4333; www.treknorth.com.au; adult/
child $160/110) Full-day tours include Moss-
man Gorge and a river cruise.
Tropical Horizons Tours ECOTOUR
(% 07-4035 6445; www.tropicalhorizonstours.com.
au; day tours from $117) S Day trips to Cape
Trib and the Daintree; also overnight tours.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C
Tropics Explorer GUIDED TOUR
(% 07-4031 3460, 1800 801 540; www.tropics­
explorer.com.au; day tours from $99) Fun Cape
Trib day trips; overnight tours available.
Cooktown & Cape York
Adventure North Australia DRIVING TOUR
(% 07-4028 3376; www.adventurenorthaustralia.
com; 1-day tours adult/child $250/200) Has 4WD
trips to Cooktown via the coastal route, re-
turning via the inland route. Also two- and
three-day tours, fly-drive and Aboriginal cul-
tural tours.
Undara Lava Tubes
Undara Experience GUIDED TOUR
(% 07-4097 1411; www.undara.com.au; 2-day tours
adult/child from $289/195) Overnight coach
and rail tours to the Undara lava tubes. S laei re ns
City Tours
Cairns Discovery Tours GUIDED TOUR
p i ng
(% 07-4028 3567; www.cairnsdiscoverytours.com;
& A r o u nd
adult/child $69/35; h Mon-Sat) Half-day after-
noon tours run by horticulturists; includes
the botanic gardens and Palm Cove. Northern-
beaches transfers are an extra $5.
4 Sleeping
Accommodation agencies have up-to-date
listings and can assist in finding a suitable
place to bed for the night. The Accommo-
dation Centre (% 1800 807 730, 07-4051 4066;
www.accomcentre.com.au) has information on
a wide range of options, including hostels,
apartments and hotels.
Cairns is a backpacker hot spot, with
around 40 hostels – from intimate converted
houses to hangar-sized resorts. The scene is
so competitive that many hotels offer free
daily dinner vouchers. The city’s wealth of
4 26
self-contained accommodation works well
for groups or families, while dozens of vir-
tually identical motels are lined up along
Sheridan St. Most tour operators also pick
up and drop off at Cairns’ northern beaches
accommodation.
Dreamtime Travellers Rest HOSTEL $
(% 07-4031 6753, 1800 058 440; www.dreamtime-
hostel.com; cnr Bunda & Terminus Sts; d $24-26, tw
without bathroom $59, d without bathroom $58-62;
i W s ) This chilled-out hostel at the edge
of the city combines friendly staff with cozy
rooms in an old Queenslander. The charm-
ing compound offers pockets of space to curl
up with a book. Cheap pizza and barbecue
nights round off the package.
Tropic Days
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C
HOSTEL $
(% 1800 421 521, 07-4041 1521; www.tropicdays.
com.au; 26-38 Bunting St; camp sites $12, tents $16,
dm $26-27, d without bathroom $64-74; aiWs )
Tucked behind the showgrounds (with a cour-
tesy bus into town), this busy hostel is a haven
of tropical gardens strung with hammocks,
with a pool table and a chilled vibe that makes
it easy to stay longer than planned. Three- to
four-bed dorms are bunk-free, doubles share
spotless bathrooms, the kitchen’s stocked with
spices, and even nonguests can book for Mon-
day night’s croc, emu and roo barbecue ($12
including a didge show).
Cairns Girls Hostel HOSTEL $
(% 07-4051 2016; www.cairnsgirlshostel.com.au;
147 Lake St; dm/tw $20/48; iW ) Sorry, boys!
With three well-equipped kitchens, spacious
S laei re ns
lounge areas and a manager who looks after
you as if you were a guest in her own home,
p i ng
this 1900s-built, white-glove-test-clean,
female-only hostel is one of the most accom-
& A r o u nd
modating budget stays in Cairns.
Cairns Coconut ¨
Caravan Resort CAMPGROUND $
(% 07-4054 6644; www.coconut.com.au; cnr Bruce
Hwy & Anderson Rd; sites powered/with bathroom
$46/64, cabins with bathroom $130-175, villas
$250-340; pais ) The last word in five-
star caravan-park luxury, 8km south of the
city centre. Spas, a waterpark, a playground,
an outdoor cinema and a slew of accommo-
dation options.
Travellers Oasis HOSTEL $
(% 07-4052 1377; www.travellersoasis.com.au; 8
Scott St; dm $27, s without bathroom $45, d with-
out bathroom $64-74; a i W s ) Handmade
timber furniture, sculptures, bright colours
and a barbecue area make this soulful 50-
bed backpacker hostel a laid-back place
to hang out with like-minded travellers.
Dorms are bunk-free; shared bathrooms
are clean.
Global Backpackers HOSTEL $
(% 07-4031 7921, 1800 819 024; www.globalback-
packerscairns.com.au; 9b Shields St; dm from $18,
d from $60; aiWs ) It’s all about location,
location, location at this flashy, centrally
located hostel. Common areas are swathed
in dark hues and rooms are cosy if not
plain. It doesn’t matter as most guests seem
happy to chill-out on the balcony or by the
pool. There’s a similarly-priced waterfront
branch (www.globalbackpackerscairns.com.au; 67
The Esplanade; dm from $18, d from $60; a i W ).
Gilligan’s HOSTEL $
(% 07-4041 6566; www.gilligansbackpackers.com.
au; 57-89 Grafton St; dm $25-37, d $130; a i W s )
The ‘G spot’ is pricey, impersonal and very
loud, but all rooms at this flashpacker resort
have bathrooms and most have balconies;
higher-priced rooms come with fridges and
TVs. Party goers never have to leave thanks
to nightly entertainment such as bogan bin-
go, jelly wrestling, live music and DJs. The
complex houses several bars, a beauty salon,
and a gym to work off all that beer.
Cairns Holiday Park CAMPGROUND $
(% 1800 259 977, 07-4051 1467; www.cairnscamp-
ing.com.au; 12-30 Little St; sites unpowered/
powered/with bathroom $34/41/52, cabins with/
without bathroom $88/63; p a i W s ) The
closest to central Cairns, this caravan park
is 3.5km north of the city centre. The smart
and clean bathroom and camp-kitchen fa-
cilities accompany tidy cabins and free in-
ternet.
Cairns Central YHA HOSTEL $
(% 07-4051 0772; www.yha.com.au; 20-26 McLeod
St; dm $25-30, s/d/f $40/80/117; a i s )
Bright, spotless and professionally staffed
hostel with a good reputation. A great choice
for location and for travellers who aren’t
necessarily here to party.
Northern Greenhouse HOSTEL $$
(% 07-4047 7200, 1800 000 541; www.friendly­
group.com.au; 117 Grafton St; dm/tw/apt $28/
95/140; paiWs ) It fits into the budget
category with dorm accommodation and a
relaxed attitude, but this friendly place is a
cut above, with neat and large studio-style
apartments with kitchens and balconies.

The central deck, pool and games room are
great for socialising. Freebies include break-
fast and a Sunday barbie.
Floriana Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $$
(% 07-4051 7886; www.florianaguesthouse.com;
183 The Esplanade; s $75, d $89 & $140; aiWs )
Run by charismatic jazz musician Maggie,
Cairns-of-old still exists at this old-fashioned
guesthouse, which retains its original pol-
ished floorboards and art-deco fittings. The
swirling staircase leads to 10 individually
decorated rooms, some with bay windows
and window seats, others with balconies.
Floriana Villas APARTMENT $$
(% 0403 339 000; www.florianavillas.com.au; 187-
189 The Esplanade; 1-bedroom apt $110-150, 2-
bedroom apt $200; aWs ) Next to the Flori-
ana Guesthouse, this distinctive white-and-
blue complex – built by a Maltese family in
the 1940s – has been converted into enor-
mous, contemporary self-contained apart-
ments. Minimum stay is three nights; extras
include free bike hire, a shaded pool with
spa jets and a landscaped barbecue area.
Inn Cairns APARTMENT $$
(% 07-4041 2350; www.inncairns.com.au; 71 Lake
St; apt $125-188; paiWs ) Behind the
unassuming facade, this is true inner-city
apartment living. Take the lift up to the
1st-floor pool or to the rooftop garden for
a sundowner. The elegant self-contained
apartments have separate bedroom and liv-
ing areas and friendly staff will make you
feel at home ‘Inn’ Cairns.
Balinese MOTEL $$
(% 07-4051 9922, 1800 023 331; www.balinese.
com.au; 215 Lake St; d from $110; aiWs ) Bali
comes to Cairns at this small low-rise com-
plex: waking up among the authentic wood
furnishings and ceramic pieces, you may be
taken with the sudden urge to have your
hair beaded.
Bay Village RESORT $$
(% 07-4051 4622; www.bayvillage.com.au; cnr Lake
& Gatton Sts; d $150-330; ais ) Smart units
encircle a central pool at this sprawling
resort. It’s popular with package tours but
no worse for that. Pricier rooms are self-
contained, with kitchens and lounges; Bal-
inese chefs cook up aromatic cuisine at the
on-site Bay Leaf Restaurant (mains $16 to
$31, lunch Monday to Friday, dinner daily).
Free airport transfers.
427
Mid City APARTMENT $$
(% 07-4051 5050; www.midcity.com.au; 6 McLeod
St; 1-/2-bedroom apt $175/225; a i W s ) The
immaculate, terracotta-tiled apartments in
this arctic-white building are self-contained,
with good kitchens, washing machines and
dryers, and a balcony to enjoy balmy nights
outside.
Villa Vaucluse APARTMENT $$
(% 07-4051 8566; www.villavaucluse.com.au; 141-
143 Grafton St; 1-bedroom apt $258; a W s )
Mediterranean decor meets tropical influ-
ences, with central atrium, secluded saltwa-
ter swimming pool and rather sumptuous
self-contained apartments. Online rates
knock about 50% off rack rates.
Tropical Queenslander
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C
RESORT $$
(% 07-4051 0122; www.queenslanderhotels.com.au;
287 Lake St; apt from $130; a i W s ) Double
dip here in the two pools, and relax in the
smart apartments with kitchenettes, bath-
rooms and balconies.
Acacia Court HOTEL $$
(% 07-4051 1501; www.acaciacourt.com; 223-227
The Esplanade; d $120-170; p a W s ) A stroll
along the foreshore from town, this water-
front high-rise has dated rooms but you get
Shangri-la views at budget rates if you book
online. Most rooms have private balconies.
Famed buffet restaurant Charlie’s (p429) is
downstairs.
o201 Lake Street HOTEL $$$
(% 07-4053 0100, 1800 628 929; www.201lake
street.com.au; 201 Lake St; r $120-260, apt $215-
S laei re ns
260) Lifted from the pages of a trendy
magazine, this apartment complex has a
p i ng
lemongrass-scented reception area, stel-
& A r o u nd
lar pool and a touch of exclusivity. Grecian
white predominates and guests can choose
from a smooth hotel room or contemporary
apartments with an entertainment area, a
plasma-screen TV and balcony.
Shangri-La HOTEL $$$
(% 07-4031 1411; www.shangri-la.com/cairns; Pier-
point Rd; r from $270; p a i W s ) In an un-
beatable waterfront setting, towering over
the marina, Shangri-La is Cairns’ top hotel, a
swish five-star that ticks all the boxes for lo-
cation, views, facilities (including a gym and
pool bar) and attentive service. The Horizon
Club rooms are top notch. Online bookings
in low season can net you a room for as lit-
tle as $170.
4 28
Hotel Cairns HOTEL $$$
(% 07-4051 6188; www.thehotelcairns.com; cnr Ab-
bott & Florence Sts; d $195-265; aWs ) There’s
a real tropical charm to this sprawling bone-
white hotel, built in traditional Queenslander
plantation style. Modern rooms have an
understated elegance and the huge ‘tower’
rooms and suites offer luxurious touches like
wicker chaises longues and private balconies.
Waterfront Terraces APARTMENT $$$
(% 07-4031 8333; www.cairnsluxury.com; 233 The
Esplanade; 1-/2-bedroom apt $212/289; aWs )
Set in lush tropical grounds, these low-rise
luxury apartments have handsomely fur-
nished separate tiled lounges and kitchen
areas and all the trimmings, including big
balconies looking out over the ocean.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C
5 Eating
Cairns’ status as an international city is
reflected in its multicultural restaurants,
which often incorporate a tropical Aussie
twist. Some of Cairns’ pubs dish up amaz-
ingly cheap meals to the thrifty backpacker
hordes and they’re not half bad.
Along the waterfront outside the Pier
Marketplace, half a dozen international res-
taurants share a boardwalk overlooking the
marina – just wander along and take your
pick. Similarly, a stroll along the Esplanade
will turn up everything from seafood restau-
rants to steak houses.
Sushi Paradise JAPANESE $
(% 07-4028 3452; 111 Grafton St; sushi $3-15;
h 11am-6.30pm Mon-Sat) Cheap and cheer-
Eat
a i ri ng
ful is the order of the day at this popular
takeaway sushi joint. Pull up a plastic chair
ns & A r o u nd
outside, mix up the wasabi and soy sauce,
and down freshly made handrolls, sashimi
and sushi. The free-flow of green tea is a nice
touch.
Ganbaranba JAPANESE $
(% 07-4031 2522; 12-20 Spence St; ramen $10-15;
h 11am-10pm daily) It’s a good sign that regu-
lars (on a first-name basis with the staff)
keep returning for the filling bowls of hand-
made ramen. Choose from a range of top-
pings and broth...all prepared authentically
by Japanese staff.
Meldrum’s Pies in Paradise BAKERY $
(97 Grafton St; pies $4.70-5.90; h 7am-5pm Mon-
Fri, to 2.30pm Sat; v ) A Cairns institution,
Meldrum’s bakes some 40 inventive varie-
ties of the humble Aussie pie – from chicken
and avocado to pumpkin gnocchi or tuna
mornay. Great for lunch on the (budget) run.
Fusion Organics CAFE $
(www.fusionorganics.com.au; cnr Aplin & Grafton
Sts; dishes $4-19.50; h 7am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm
Sat; v ) In the wicker-chair-strewn corner
courtyard of a historic 1921 red-brick former
ambulance station, hard-working chefs whip
up Fusion’s organic, allergy-free fare such
as quiches, frittatas, corn fritters and filled
breads you can finish off with fresh juice.
Vanilla Gelateria ICE CREAM $
(Pierpoint Rd; cone or cup $4-6; h 9.30am-11pm)
Icy scoops of gelati like Toblerone; lemon,
lime and bitters – even Red Bull! Perfect for
a hot day.
Night Markets
FOOD COURT $
(The Esplanade; dishes $10-15; h 5-11pm daily) If
you want something cheap and quick, the
Night Markets, between Alpin and Shields
Sts, have a busy Asian-style food court.
Fetta’s Greek Taverna GREEK $$
(% 07-4051 6966; www.fettasgreektaverna.com.
au; 99 Grafton St; dishes $13-25; h 11.30am-3pm
Mon-Fri, 5.30pm-late daily) The white walls and
blue-accented windows do a great job evok-
ing Santorini. But it’s the food that’s the star
of the show here, with classic Greek dishes.
For the indecisive, the $35 set menu goes the
whole hog – dip, saganaki, mousakka, salad,
grilled meats, calamari, baklava AND cof-
fee. The takeaway section offers great-value
gyros topped with with zingy tzatziki for $9.
Ochre
MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-4051 0100; www.ochrerestaurant.com.au;
43 Shields St; mains $23-37; h 11am-3pm Mon-Fri,
6-10.30pm daily; v ) In an ochre- and plum-
toned dining room, the changing menu at
this innovative restaurant utilises native
Aussie fauna (such as croc with native pep-
per, or roo with quandong-chilli glaze) and
flora (wattle-seed damper loaf with peanut
oil and native dukka; lemon-myrtle pa-
nacotta). Croc burgers and wallaby topside
round off the menu. Can’t decide? Try a tast-
ing plate.
Green Ant Cantina MEXICAN $$
(% 07-4041 5061; www.greenantcantina.com; 183
Bunda St; mains $15-40; h 6pm-late daily; v )
This funky little slice of Mexico behind the
railway station is worth seeking out for its
homemade quesadillas, enchiladas and
Corona-battered barramundi. Great cocktail
list, cool tunes and the occasional live band.

Marinades INDIAN $$
(% 07-4041 1422; 43 Spence St; mains $14-30;
h 11am-2.30pm, 6-10pm Tue-Sun; v ) A long,
long menu of aromatic dishes like lobster
marinated in cashew paste, or Goan prawn
curry, along with restrained decor in its
dining room, make Marinades the pick of
Cairns’ Indian restaurants. Thali lunch sets
($10 to $12) are good value and you save 10%
when doing takeaway.
Perrotta’s at the Gallery MEDITERRANEAN $$
(% 07-4031 5899; 38 Abbott St; mains $14-36;
h 8.30am-11pm daily; v ) This breezy spot ad-
joining the Cairns Regional Gallery tempts
you onto its covered deck’s wrought-iron
furniture for tasty breakfasts, coffees, and
a Med-inspired menu at lunch and dinner.
The odd surly staff member blemishes the
overall experience though.
Dolce & Caffe CAFE $$
(Shop 1, Mantra Esplanade, Shields St; dishes $6.50-
18; h 6am-5pm daily; v ) A local ‘see and be
seen’ fave for its good coffee and super-fresh
salads.
La Fettuccina ITALIAN $$
(% 07-4031 5959; www.lafettuccina.com; 41 Shields
St; mains $26-31; h 6-10.30pm daily) Homemade
sauces and pasta are a speciality at this
small, atmospheric Italian restaurant. Try
for a seat on the tiny, internal wrought-iron
mezzanine balcony. Licensed and BYO.
Charlie’s SEAFOOD $$
(% 07-4051 5011; 223-227 The Esplanade; buffets
$23.50; h 6-10.30pm daily) It’s not the fanciest
place in town, but Charlie’s, at the Acacia
Court Hotel, is known for its nightly all-
you-can-eat ‘quantity over quality’ seafood
buffet. Fill your plate with prawns, oysters,
clams or hot food and eat out on the pool-
side terrace.
Cherry Blossom JAPANESE $$$
(% 07-4052 1050; cnr Spence & Lake Sts; mains
$29-53; h noon-2pm Tue-Fri, 5-11pm Mon-Sat)
This 1st-floor restaurant is reminiscent of an
Iron Chef cook-off, with two chefs working
at opposite ends of the restaurant floor. De-
spite being in need of an interior update, the
restaurant is popular for sushi, teppanyaki
and plenty of theatre.
Self-Catering
Cairns’ main fresh food market is Rusty’s
Markets (Grafton St; h 5am-6pm Fri, 6am-3pm
Sat, 6am-2pm Sun), between Shields and
Spence Sts.
4 29
Asian Foods Australia SELF-CATERING $
(101 Grafton St) Stocks a wide range of food
products from all over Asia.
Cairns Central ¨
Shopping Centre SELF-CATERING
(www.cairnscentral.com.au; McLeod St; h 9am-
5.30pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat, to 9pm Thu, 10am-
4.30pm Sun) This huge shopping centre has
a butcher and a couple of supermarkets in-
cluding Coles.
6 Drinking
Cairns holds the mantle as the party capital
of the north Queensland coast, with loads
of options. Most venues are multipurpose,
offering food, alcohol and some form of en-
tertainment, and you can always find a beer
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C
garden or terrace to enjoy balmy evenings.
oSalt House BAR
(www.salthouse.com.au; 6/2 Pierpoint Rd; h 9am-
2am Fri-Sun, 11am-2am Mon-Thu) Next to Cairns’
yacht club, Salt House has a sleek nautical
design that has seen it become the city’s
most sought-after bar. Killer cocktails are
paired with occasional live music, or DJs
hitting the decks. The restaurant serves up
excellent modern Australian food including
line-caught fish and succulent steaks, and is
worth migrating to after sundowners.
Vibe Bar & Lounge BAR
(% 07-4052 1494; 39 Lake St; h 11am-late Mon,
Wed & Fri, 5pm-late Sat, 6pm-late Sun) A fresh
lick of paint has breathed life back into this
medium-sized restaurant/bar. The pub grub Da
is passable but it’s the drinks list and pump-
ri r
ing dance floor (from 9pm) that draw the
nk
ns
punters in.
i ng
& A r o u nd
Gilligan’s BAR, CLUB
(www.gilligansbackpackers.com.au; 57-89 Grafton
St; h 9am-late) You’re guaranteed a crowd
at Cairns’ biggest and busiest backpacker
resort, with 400-odd backpackers staying
here. But it’s also popular with locals for its
immense beer deck, live bands, DJs spin-
ning house tunes, and cocktails in its up-
stairs lounge bar.
Court House Hotel PUB
(38 Abbott St; h 9am-late) In Cairns’ gleaming
white former courthouse building, dating
from 1921, the Court House pub is replete
with a polished timber island bar and Scales
of Justice statue – and cane-toad races on
Wednesday night. DJs spin on Fridays. On
4 30
any other day, park yourself in the quiet beer
garden outside.
The Jack BAR
(% 07-4051 2490; www.thejack.com.au; 48 Spence
St; h to late daily) The huge beer garden with
barrels for tables, big screens and a music
stage is the stand-out at this marginally
Irish-themed pub attached to a backpackers.
The entertainment spans live bands, DJs,
UFC telecasts and swimsuit competitions.
Pier Bar & Grill BAR
(www.pierbar.com.au; Pierpoint Rd; h 11.30am-late)
A local stalwart for its waterfront location
and well-priced meals. The Pier’s Sunday
sessions are packed to the gills and the place
to be.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C
Grand Hotel PUB
(www.grandhotelcairns.com; 33 McLeod St;
h 11am-1am) This laid-back local is worth a
visit just so that you can rest your beer on
the bar – an 11m-long carved crocodile!
PJ O’Briens IRISH PUB
(cnr Lake & Shields Sts; h to late daily) There are
sticky carpets and the smell of stale Guin-
ness, but Irish-themed PJ’s packs ’em in with
party nights, pole dancing and dirt-cheap
meals.
Woolshed Chargrill & Saloon BAR
(% 07-4031 6304; www.thewoolshed.com.au; 24
Shields St; h to late daily) Another backpacker
magnet (probably because many hostels
offer Woolshed meal vouchers!) where a
young crowd of travellers and diving in-
Ent
structors elect to get hammered and dance
a i rens
on the tables.
r ta&i nm
Hotel Cairns BAR
(www.thehotelcairns.com; cnr Abbott & Florence
A r eont
Sts; h to late daily) This grand-dame hotel is
u nd
a low-key alternative to Cairns’ hurdy-gurdy
party scene, with nightly piano and double-
bass performances.
Heritage Nightclub CLUB
(% 07-4031 8070; www.theheritagecairns.com; cnr
Spence & Lake Sts; h 9pm-3am Thu, 10pm-5am Sat
& Sun) When the DJ starts revving, a high-
energy crowd downs cocktails and shots
and spills out onto the enormous 1st-floor
balcony. It can get messy but you can’t go
wrong if you’re looking for a party.
3 Entertainment
Live music hits stages all over town; the Tanks
Arts Centre hosts well-known pop, rock, indie
and folk artists. Jazz buffs should check the
weekly roster at www.tropicjazz.org.au. Night-
clubs come and go; ask locally about what’s
hot (and not). Clubs generally close at 3am or
later; cover charges usually apply.
The website www.entertainmentcairns.
com and hostels generally stock free back-
packers magazines listing the hot spots.
12 Bar Blues Jazz JAZZ
(% 07-4041 7388; 62 Shields St; h 7pm-late Wed-
Sun) The best (perhaps only) place in Cairns
for loungy live music, this intimate bar
grooves to the beat of jazz, blues and swing.
Songwriter open-mic night takes place on
Thursday, and general open-mic night on
Sunday.
Pullman Reef Hotel Casino
CASINO, BAR
(www.reefcasino.com.au; 35-41 Wharf St; h 4-11pm
Mon & Tue, 4pm-late Wed-Sun) Cairns’ casino has
table games as well as hundreds of poker
machines. Also three restaurants and four
bars, including Vertigo Bar & Lounge, with
free live music and ticketed shows and a
massive sports bar (screening free movies
twice a week). Mum can take the kids to the
inhouse wildlife dome while daddy gam-
bles away the family fortune.
Starry Night Cinema CINEMA
(www.endcredits.org.au; Flecker Botanic Gardens,
Collins Ave, Edge Hill; admission $10; h Jun-Oct)
Every third Wednesday of the month classic
films screen from about 6.30pm in the tropi-
cal outdoors of the botanic gardens.
Jute Theatre
THEATRE
(% 07-4050 9444; www.jute.com.au; CoCA, 96 Ab-
bott St; tickets from $20) Stages contemporary
Australian works and indie plays in the Cen-
tre of Contemporary Arts.
Rondo Theatre THEATRE
(% 07-4031 9555, 1800 855 835; www.cairnslittle­
theatre.com; Greenslopes St; tickets $18-22)
Community plays and musicals at this thea-
tre opposite Centenary Lakes. It’s 4.5km
northwest of the centre (take Sheridan St to
Greenslopes St).
Event Cinemas Cairns CINEMA
(www.eventcinemas.com.au; 108 Grafton St) Main-
stream flicks and occasional foreign and art-
house films; cheap tickets on Tuesdays.
BCC Cinemas CINEMA
(% 07-4052 1166; Cairns Central Shopping Centre,
McLeod St) Mainstream films, cheap tickets
on Tuesdays.

7 Shopping
Cairns offers the gamut of shopping, from
high-end boutiques like Louis Vuitton to
garishly kitsch souvenir barns. You’ll have
no trouble finding a box of macadamia nuts,
some emu or crocodile jerky, fake designer
sunglasses and tropical-fish fridge magnets.
Mud Markets MARKET
(Pier Marketplace; h 9am-3pm Sat & Sun) Live
entertainment, craft and organic produce
are all on offer here. Of course, if your sup-
ply of ‘Cairns Australia’ T-shirts is running
low...they have that, too.
Cairns Central ¨
Shopping Centre SHOPPING CENTRE
(www.cairnscentral.com.au; McLeod St; h 9am-
5.30pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat, to 9pm Thu, 10am-
4.30pm Sun) Enormous centre with a huge
range of speciality stores selling everything
from books to bikinis.
Woolworths SUPERMARKET
(103 Abbott St; h 9am-9pm daily) Chain su-
permarket with a massive selection geared
towards Cairns’ travellers (sunscreen, SIM
cards etc).
Night Markets MARKET
(www.nightmarkets.com.au; The Esplanade;
h 4.30pm-midnight) Tacky souvenirs, trinkets
and cheap massages are the order of the day
here.
Absells Chart Map Centre BOOKS, MAPS
(Main Street Arcade, 85 Lake St) Absells car-
ries an impressive range of quality regional
maps, topographic maps and nautical charts.
88 Information
EMERGENCY
Ambulance, fire & police (% 000; h 24hr)
Police Station (% 07-4030 7000; 5 Sheridan
St)
INTERNET ACCESS
Most tour-booking agencies and accommoda-
tion places have internet-enabled PCs and wi-fi;
dedicated internet cafes are clustered along
Abbott St, between Shields and Aplin Sts.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Cairns Base Hospital (% 07-4050 6333; The
Esplanade) Has a 24-hour emergency service.
Cairns City 24 Hour Medical Centre (% 07-
4052 1119; cnr Florence & Grafton Sts) General
practice and dive medicals.
4 31
Cairns Travel Clinic (% 07-4041 1699; www.
ctlmedical.com.au; 15 Lake St; h 8.30am-
5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Vaccinations
and supplies such as anti-malarials.
MONEY
Most of the major banks have branches with
ATMs and foreign exchange; private currency-
exchange bureaus line The Esplanade and are
open longer hours.
American Express (% 1300 139 060; 63 Lake
St) In Westpac Bank.
Travelex (% 07-4041 6043; Shop 73, Cairns
Central Shopping Centre; h 9am-5pm Mon-
Wed & Sat, 9am-7pm Thu, 10am-4pm Sun)
POST
Post Office (% 07-4051 3099; Shop 115, Cairns
Central Shopping Centre; h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri,
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C
9am-noon Sat)
TOURIST INFORMATION
Plenty of places stick up ‘i’ signs and call them-
selves ‘information centres’, but they’re basi-
cally tour-booking agencies. All hostels have a
booking desk and can offer information.
Cairns & Tropical North Visitor Informa-
tion Centre (% 1800 093 300; www.cairns-
greatbarrierreef.org.au; 51 The Esplanade;
h 8.30am-6.30pm daily) Government-run
centre that doles out impartial advice and can
book accommodation and tours.
Cairns Discount Tours (% 07-4055 7158;
www.cairnsdiscounttours.com.au) Knowledge-
able booking agent for day trips and tours,
specialising in last-minute deals.
Destination Cairns (% 1800 807 730, 07-4051
4055; cnr Sheridan & Aplin Sts) Destination
Cairns has wheelchair access and information
Sh
and tour bookings.
a iorpp
Far North Queensland Volunteers (% 07-4041
nsi ng
7400; www.fnqvolunteers.org; 68 Abbott St)
Arranges volunteer positions with nonprofit
& A r o u nd
community groups.
Royal Automobile Club of Queensland
(RACQ; % 07-4042 3100; www.racq.com.au;
537 Mulgrave Rd, Earlville) Maps and informa-
tion on road conditions state-wide, including
Cape York. For a 24-hour recorded road-report
service, call % 1300 130 595.
88 Getting There & Away
AIR
Qantas (% 13 13 13; www.qantas.com.au), Vir-
gin Australia (% 13 67 89; www.virginaustralia.
com) and Jetstar (% 13 15 38; www.jetstar.
com.au) all service Cairns, with flights to/from
Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne, Darwin (includ-
ing via Alice Springs) and Townsville. There are
international flights to/from places including
China and Singapore.
4 32
THE BAMA WAY
From Cairns to Cooktown, you can see
the country through Indigenous eyes
along the Bama Way (www.bamaway.
com.au). Bama (pronounced Bumma)
means ‘person’ in the Kuku Yalanji and
Guugu Yimithirr languages, and high-
lights include tours with Indigenous
guides, such as the Walker family tours
on the Bloomfield Track, and Willie
Gordon’s enlightening Guurrbi Tours in
Cooktown. Pick up a Bama Way map
from visitor centres.
Skytrans (% 1300 759 872, 07-4040 6799;
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C
www.skytrans.com.au) Skytrans services Cape
York and remote north Queensland towns.
Hinterland Aviation (% 07-4040 1333; www.
hinterlandaviation.com.au) Hinterland Aviation
has one to three flights daily except Sunday to/
from Cooktown (one way $410, 40 minutes).
BUS
Cairns is the hub for Far North Queensland
buses.
Greyhound Australia (% 1300 473 946; www.
greyhound.com.au) Has four daily services
down the coast to Brisbane ($295, 29 hours)
via Townsville ($59, six hours), Airlie Beach
($130, 11 hours) and Rockhampton ($190, 18
hours). Bus passes can reduce costs. Departs
from Reef Fleet Terminal, at the southern end
of The Esplanade.
Premier Motor Service (% 13 34 10; www.
premierms.com.au) Runs one daily service to
Ga
Brisbane ($205, 29 hours) via Innisfail ($19, 1½
e tt
i r ns
hours), Mission Beach ($19, two hours), Tully
i ng& AArroouund
($26, 2½ hours), Cardwell ($30, three hours),
Townsville ($55, 5½ hours) and Airlie Beach
($90, 10 hours). Departs from stop D, Lake St
Transit Centre. Cheaper bus passes available.
Trans North (% 07-4095 8644; www.trans­
nd
northbus.com; Cairns Central Rail Station)
Has five daily bus services connecting Cairns
with the tableland, serving Kuranda ($8, 30
minutes, five daily), Mareeba ($18, one hour,
one to three daily), Atherton ($23.40, 1¾ hours,
one to three daily). Ask about connections to
Ravenshoe and Chillagoe. Departs from Cairns
Central Rail Station; buy tickets when boarding.
John’s Kuranda Bus (% 0418 772 953) Runs
a service between Cairns and Kuranda two to
five times daily ($5, 30 minutes). Departs from
Lake Street Transit Centre.
Sun Palm (% 07-4087 2900; www.sunpalm-
transport.com) Runs northern services from
Cairns to Port Douglas ($40, 1½ hours) via
Palm Cove and the northern beaches (from
$20) and Mossman ($45, 1¾ hours). Depar-
tures from the airport and CBD.
Country Road Coachlines (% 07-4045 2794;
www.countryroadcoachlines.com.au) Runs a
daily bus service between Cairns and Cooktown
($80) and Cape Tribulation ($50) on either
the coastal route (Bloomfield Track via Port
Douglas and Mossman) or inland route (via
Mareeba), depending on the day of departure
and the condition of the track. Departures from
the Reef Fleet Terminal.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
All major car-rental companies have branches
in Cairns and at the airport, with discount car-
and campervan-rental companies proliferating
throughout town. Daily rates start at around $45
for a late-model small car and around $80 for a
4WD. The big boys such as Hertz and Europcar
are located in Cairns Square (cnr Shields &
Abbott Sts). If you’re in for the long haul, check
out the noticeboard on Abbott St for used camp-
ervans and ex-backpackers’ cars.
Britz Australia (% 07-4032 2611, 1800 331
454; www.britz.com.au; 419 Sheridan St) Hires
out campervans.
East Coast (% 1800 028 881, 07-5592 0444;
www.eastcoastcarrentals.com.au; 146
Sheridan St)
Choppers Motorcycle Tours & Hire (% 0408-
066 024; www.choppersmotorcycles.com.au;
150 Sheridan St) Hire a Harley (from $190 a
day) or smaller bikes (from $75). Also offers
motorcycle tours.
TRAIN
The Sunlander departs from Cairns’ train sta-
tion (Bunda St) on Tuesday, Thursday and
Saturday for Brisbane (one way from $200, 31½
hours); the Scenic Railway runs daily to/from
Kuranda. Contact Queensland Rail (% 13 16 17;
www.traveltrain.com.au).
88 Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
The airport is about 7km north of central Cairns;
many accommodation places offer courtesy
pick-ups. Sun Palm (p432) meets all incom-
ing flights and runs a shuttle bus (adult/child
$12/6) to the CBD. You can also book airport
transfers to/from Cairns’ northern beaches
($20), Palm Cove ($20), Port Douglas ($40),
and Mossman ($45). Black & White Taxis (% 13
10 08) charges around $30.
BICYCLE
Bike hire is also available from some accommo-
dation places.
Bike Man (% 07-4041 5566; www.bikeman.
com.au; 99 Sheridan St; per day/week $15/60)
Hire, sales and repairs.

Cairns Bicycle Hire (% 07-4031 3444; www.
cairnsbicyclehire.com.au; 47 Shields St; per
day/week from $25/65, scooters per day from
$85) Groovy bikes and scooters.
BUS
Sunbus (% 07-4057 7411; www.sunbus.com.
au; Lake St Transit Centre) runs regular services
in and around Cairns from the Lake St Transit
Centre, where schedules are posted. Useful
routes include: Flecker Botanic Gardens/Edge
Hill and Machans Beach (bus 131), Holloways
Beach and Yorkeys Knob (buses 112, 113, 120),
and Trinity Beach, Clifton Beach and Palm Cove
(buses 110, 111). Most buses heading north go
via Smithfield. All are served by the late-running
433
night service (N). Heading south, bus 140 runs
as far as Gordonvale.
TAXI
Black & White Taxis has a rank near the corner
of Lake and Shields Sts, and one on McLeod St,
outside Cairns Central Shopping Centre.
Islands off Cairns
Cairns day trippers can easily head out to
Green Island, as well as Fitzroy Island and
Frankland Islands National Parks for a bit of
sunning, snorkelling and indulging.

Around Cairns 0
0
20 km
10 miles

Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef Is

Port Douglas (27km); Ca
Mossman (35km) pta
in
Ellis Beach
Double Island Great Barrier
Co

Cairns Tropical Palm Cove Reef

ok H

Zoo Clifton Beach

81
er Trinity Beach
Riv Green
wy

r on Island
Bar
44
d Kuranda Yorkeys Knob
o nR Smithfield Holloways Beach
i l w Machans Beach
Mareeba B y Cape
H w Freshwater Cairns
Wetlands Grafton
Cairns Wildlife Airport
Safari Reserve Barron
Biboohra Cairns
Gorge
y
ed

National Park
nn

Crystal Yarrabah Fitzroy

Ke

27 1 Cascades Aboriginal Island

Davies Creek Community
Mareeba Falls
Lake Edmonton
Davies Creek Morris
National Park Military
Granite Gorge A1 Area CORAL
Nature Park
Ba

SEA
Mulg

Danbulla
rro

Danbulla
Forest Drive State
n

Walkamin Gordonvale
ra

Forest
Mu

Ca
G
Ri

ve

Ri Br
uc
eltt
ve

v
lg

Cathedral er e
r

iands

1
rav

Walsh's Hwy
r ns

Tinaroo
Fig 52 High Island
eR

Falls
i ng&o

Lake Pyramid (922m)

Hwy

ive

Tolga Tinaroo Wooroonooran

r

lies Frankland
AAr

National Park Deeral Russell

Gil
frfoou

Heads Islands
Atherton Yungaburra Lake Barrine
Crater Lakes
Cund
and

National Park Mt Bellenden Ker Graham Range

Russell Rive

i r ns

52 Curtain Lake Eacham (1591m) (Russell River)

1 Fig Peeramon Babinda National Park
Malanda Boulders A1
Herberton Malanda Falls Mt Bartle
Mt Hypipamee
r

Frere (1657m) Babinda

National Park Bramston
Waterfalls Beach
Tarzali Circuit Josephine Mirriwinni
Falls
Zillie Falls Eubenangee Swamp
Millaa Millaa
Ken

Falls National Park

Ellinjaa Wooroonooran Garradunga
ned

24 Falls National Park Ella Bay

y

(Palmerston Section) National Park

Hwy

Millaa Millaa
Tumoulin Johns
Mungalli tone e r Flying Fish
Riv Innisfail
rth

1 Falls Point
No

Innot Hot 25
25
Springs (20km) Etty Bay
1
Ravenshoe 25 A1
434
CAIRNS TO COOKTOWN – THE INLAND ROAD
It’s 332km (about four hours’ drive) from Cairns to Cooktown via this cattle, cockie ‘n’
croc route. You can either access the Mulligan Hwy from Mareeba, or via the turn-off just
before Mossman. The road travels past rugged ironbarks and cattle-trodden land before
joining the Cooktown Developmental Rd at Lakeland. From here it’s another 80km to
Cooktown.
The tiny town of Mt Molloy marks the start of the Mulligan Hwy. The National Ho-
tel (% 07-4094 1133; www.mountmolloynationalhotel.com.au; Main St, Mt Molloy; s/d $40/80)
has accommodation and pub grub (mains $12 to $24, open lunch and dinner), while
Mt Molloy Cafe & Takeaway (% 07-4094 1187; mains $6-15), aka ‘Lobo Loco’, doles out
everything from dim sums and burritos to boxes of cornflakes, or a shot of bourbon at
its bar.
The Palmer River gold rush (1873–83) occurred about 70km to the west, throwing up
boom towns Palmerville and Maytown; little of either remain today. You’ll find food, fuel
and road crews at the Palmer River Roadhouse (% 07-4060 2020; unpowered/powered
sites $15/20, s/d $45/55, mains $15-25; h breakfast, lunch & dinner; i ). You can also pitch a
tent, park your van or stay in the roadhouse’s safari tents overlooking the river.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef Is

South of Cooktown the road travels through the thoroughly sinister-looking black-
ened rock piles of Black Mountain National Park – a range of hills formed 260 mil-
lion years ago and made up of thousands of granite boulders. Local Indigenous people
call it Kalcajagga, or ‘place of the spears’, and it’s home to unique species of frog, skink
and gecko.

$79/37.50) run day trips, with optional glass-

Green Island
Green Island’s long, dog-legged jetty heaves
under the weight of boatloads of day trippers
who depart by midafternoon, leaving the is-
land a picture-postcard ghost town for resort
guests. This beautiful coral cay is only 45 min-
utes from Cairns and has a rainforest interior
with interpretive walks, a fringing white-sand
beach and snorkelling just offshore. You can
walk around the island in about 30 minutes.
Ca
G
bottomed boat and semisubmersible tours.
Alternatively, sail to the island aboard
Ocean Free (% 07-4052 1111; www.oceanfree.
com.au; adult/child from $140/95), spending
most of the day offshore at Pinnacle Reef,
with a short stop on the island.
Fitzroy Island
A steep mountaintop rising from the sea,
Fitzroy Island has coral-strewn beaches,

The island and its surrounding waters

eltt

are protected by their national- and marine- woodlands and walking tracks, and Aus-
iands
r ns

park status. Marineland Melanesia (% 07- tralia’s last staffed lighthouse. The most
i ng&o

4051 4032; www.marinelandgreenisland.com.au; popular snorkelling spot is around the rocks

at Nudey Beach (1.2km from the resort),
AAr

adult/child $18/8) has an aquarium with fish,

frfoou

turtles, stingrays and crocodiles, as well as a which, despite its name, is not clothing-
optional, so bring your togs.
Cund

collection of Melanesian artefacts.

and

Luxurious Green Island Resort (% 07- You can pitch a tent at the Fitzroy Island
i r ns

4031 3300, 1800 673 366; www.greenislandresort.
com.au; ste $570-670; ais ) has large, taste-
ful timber-clad rooms, and bookings include
breakfast, sunset drinks, guided walks and
free snorkle equipment and kayak hire. Is-
land transfers are included. It’s partially
open to day trippers (using a separate pool),
so even if you’re not staying you can enjoy
the restaurants, bars, ice-cream parlour and
water-sports facilities.
Great Adventures (% 07-4044 9944;
www.greatadventures.com.au; 1 Spence St, Cairns;
adult/child $79/37.50) and Big Cat (% 07-4051
0444; www.greenisland.com.au; adult/child from
Camping Ground (% 07-4044 6700; camp
sites $33), run by Cairns Regional Council. It
has showers, toilets and barbecues; advance
bookings are essential.
Refurbished accommodation at the Fit-
zroy Island Resort (% 07-4044 6700; www.
fitzroyisland.com; studios $195, cabins $369, 1 & 2
bedroom ste $350-515; a s ) ranges from stu-
dios and beachfront cabins through to two-
bedroom apartments. Its restaurant, bar
and kiosk are open to day trippers.
Raging Thunder (www.ragingthunder.com.
au) runs one trip a day from Cairns (depart-
ing 8.30am, adult/child $60/30).

Frankland Islands
If the idea of hanging out on one of five unin-
habited coral-fringed islands with excellent
snorkelling and stunning white sandy beach-
es appeals – and if not, why not? – cruise out
to the Frankland Group National Park.
Camping is available on High or Russell
Islands, which both feature rainforest areas –
contact Queensland National Parks (% 13
74 68; www.nprsr.qld.gov.au; permits $5.45) for ad-
vance reservations and – in case you were
getting any ideas about dropping out of life
for a while – seasonal restrictions.
Frankland Islands Cruise & Dive (% 07-
4031 6300; www.franklandislands.com.au; adult/
child from $149/79) runs excellent day trips,
which include a cruise down the Mulgrave
River, snorkelling gear and lunch. Guided
snorkelling tours with a marine biologist
and diving packages are also offered. Trans-
fers for campers to/from Russell Island are
available. Boats depart from Deeral; trans-
fers from Cairns and the northern beaches
cost $16 per person.
You’ll need to organise your own boat or
charter to reach High Island.
Cairns’ Northern Beaches
Since Cairns doesn’t have a beach, locals and
tourists head offshore to the islands or trav-
el slightly north in search of golden sands.
Most turn-offs from the Captain Cook Hwy
lead to small communities taking advantage
of an easy, relaxed seaside lifestyle. There’s
a distinctive beach-holiday vibe and each
community has its own character: Yorkeys
is popular with sailors, Trinity with families;
Palm Cove is a swanky honeymoon haven.
Only Ellis Beach and Palm Cove have camp
sites.
Sunbus travels to the beaches throughout
the week.
Holloways Beach
The Coral Sea meets a rough ribbon of sand
at quiet Holloways Beach. It’s a mostly resi-
dential area, with beachside homes making
way for a handful of tourist developments.
Pacific Sands (% 07-4055 0277; www.pacif-
icsandscairns.com; 1-19 Poinciana St; d $109-145;
a W s ) is a complex of bright self-contained
two-bedroom apartments stretching one
block back from the beach.
435
At Cairns Beach Resort (% 07-4037 0400,
1800 150 208; www.cairnsbeachresort.com.au; 129
Oleander St; d $185-230; a i s ) there’s a flash
tropical ambience to the large blocks of one-
bedroom beachfront apartments.
The breezy cafe, Strait on the Beach
(100 Oleander St; mains $15-20; h 7.30am-8.30pm
daily), has a chunky timber deck overlooking
the beach – perfect for reading the paper
over coffee or breakfast.
Yorkeys Knob
The most appealing of Cairns’ northern
beaches, Yorkeys is a sprawling, low-key
settlement on a white-sand beach. In the
crescent-shaped Half Moon Bay is the ma-
rina, supporting 200 bobbing boats.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C
Kite Rite (% 07-4055 7918; www.kiterite.com.
au; Shop 9, 471 Varley St; per hr $80) offers stand-
up paddleboard, kite- and windsurfing in-
struction, including gear hire, and a two-day
certificate course ($499).
A block or so back from the beach, Villa
Marine (% 07-4055 7158; www.villamarine.com.
au; 8 Rutherford St; d $99-139; a W s ) is the
best-value spot in Yorkeys. Friendly owner
Peter makes you feel at home in the retro-
style, single-storey self-contained apart-
ments arranged around a pool.
Yorkeys Knob Boating Club (% 07-4055
7711; www.ykbc.com.au; 25-29 Buckley St; mains
$17-28; h noon-3pm, 6-9pm daily, 8-10am Sat &
Sun; v ), a diamond find, serves up seafood
and faves such as burgers and steaks. Go for
the cod if it’s on the menu, or the cooked-
Ga
to-perfection calamari, order a schooner (or
e tt
two – there’s a local courtesy bus) and take
i r ns
a seat on the deck and dream about sailing
i ng
away on one of the luxury yachts moored
’ &NAA
out the front.
orrroo
tuu
hnd
Trinity Beach & Around
nd
e r n B e ac h e s
High-rise developments detract from Trin-
ity Beach’s long stretch of sheltered white
sand, but holidaymakers love it – turning
their backs to the buildings and focusing
on what is one of Cairns’ prettiest northern
beaches. Accommodation is plentiful along
the beachfront.
Self-contained apartments are just foot-
steps from the beach at Castaways (% 07-
4057 6699; www.castawaystrinitybeach.com.au;
cnr Trinity Beach Rd & Moore St; 1-/2-bedroom apt
$110/135; as ), which has three pools, spas,
tropical gardens and good stand-by rates.
4 36
L’Unico Trattoria (% 07-4057 8855; www.lu-
nico.com.au; mains $16-44; h noon-late daily; v ),
opening to a wrap-around wooden deck,
serves stylish Italian cuisine, including veal
with sweet-potato mash, homemade four-
cheese gnocchi and wood-fired pizzas, along
with specials such as Moreton Bay bugs
cooked with wine and garlic. It has a beach-
side location, and a stellar wine list.
Clifton Beach
Local and leisurely, Clifton Beach has a good
balance of residential and holiday accom-
modation and services. You can walk north
along the beach about 2km to Palm Cove
from here.
Clifton Palms (% 07-4055 3839; www.clift-
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C
onpalms.com.au; 35-41 Upolu Esplanade; 1/2-bed-
room apt $90/145; ais ) has freestanding
single-storey apartments backed by a cur-
tain of green hills, with a big poolside bar-
becue area.
Opposite Clifton Palms, Clifton Capers
Bar & Grill (% 07-4059 2311; www.cliftoncapers.
com; 14 Clifton Rd; mains $18-38; h 3pm-late
Tue-Fri, 11.30am-late Sat & Sun) is highly rated
among locals and has a range of pastas, piz-
zas and seafood. It’s a pleasant, relaxed set-
ting, and there’s live music on Thurdays and
Sundays.
Palm Cove
More intimate than Port Douglas and much
more upmarket than its southern neigh-
bours, Palm Cove is essentially one big
Ga
e tt
promenade along Williams Esplanade, with
i r ns
a stretch of coarse white-sand beach and
i ng
top-notch restaurants luring sun lovers out
’ &NAA
of their luxury resorts. Sir Elton John report-
orrroo
edly owns a house/recording studio in the
tuu
headlands here.
hnd
nd
e r n B e ac h e s
Beach strolls, shopping and leisurely
swims will be your chief activities here, but
there’s no excuse for not getting out on the
water. Palm Cove Watersports (% 0402 861
011; www.palmcovewatersports.com; kayak hire per
hour $33) organises 1½-hour early-morning
sea-kayaking trips ($53) and half-day pad-
dles to Double Island (adult/child $93/73),
offshore from Palm Cove.
Just west of Palm Cove, the Cairns Tropi-
cal Zoo (% 07-4055 3669; www.cairnstropicalzoo.
com.au; Captain Cook Hwy; adult/child $33/16.50,
Cairns Night Zoo adult/child $97/48.50; h 8.30am-
4pm daily) offers an up-close wildlife experi-
ence with crocodiles and snakes, koala photo
sessions and kangaroo feeding. Transfers are
available from Palm Cove, Port Douglas and
Cairns and the northern beaches.
Most of Palm Cove’s accommodation has
a minimum stay of two nights. The Palm
Cove Camping Ground (% 07-4055 3824;
149 Williams Esplanade; unpowered/powered sites
$19/27) is a council-run beachfront camping
ground near the jetty, with barbecue area
and laundry. There are no cabins, but it’s the
only way to do Palm Cove on the cheap!
The bright self-contained apartments at
Silvester Palms (% 07-4055 3831; www.silves­
terpalms.com.au; 32 Veivers Rd; 1-/2-/3-bedroom
apt $110/135/195; aWs ) are an affordable
alternative to Palm Cove’s city-sized resorts,
and good for families.
Once the private residence of an army
brigadier, the Reef House Resort & Spa
(% 07-4080 2600; www.reefhouse.com.au; 99 Wil-
liams Esplanade; d from $279; a i W s ) is more
intimate and understated than most of Palm
Cove’s resorts. Whitewashed walls, wicker
furniture and big beds romantically draped
in muslin all add to the air of refinement.
The Brigadier’s Bar works on a quaint hon-
esty system; complimentary punch is served
by candlelight at twilight. The inhouse res-
taurant and spa are both well-regarded. Off-
season rates offer good value.
Step through the large lobby at Pep-
pers Beach Club & Spa (% 1300 987 600,
07-5665 4426; www.peppers.com.au; 123 Williams
Esplanade; d from $175; a i W s ) and into a
wonder world of swimming pools – there’s
the sand-edged lagoon pool and the leafy
rainforest pool and swim-up bar, plus tennis
courts and spa treatments. Even the stand-
ard rooms have private balcony spas, and
the penthouse suites (from $549) have their
own rooftop pool. The top-notch service ex-
ceeds expectations.
The charming Melaleuca Resort (% 1800
629 698; www.melaleucaresort.com.au; 85-93
Williams Esplanade; d $195-250; a s ) has 24
one-bedroom apartments, all with kitchens,
balconies and laundry facilities.
Palm Cove has some fine restaurants and
cafes strung along the esplanade. All of the
resort hotels have swish dining options open
to nonguests.
Join hipsters as they down pints at The
Rising Sun (% 07-4059 0889; 95 Williams Es-
planade; dishes $16-36, drinks from $6; h 11am-
midnight daily), a sassy, breezy beachfront bar/
bistro. If you get too hammered, stumble

through to the attached Sarayi boutique ho-
tel to sleep it off.
The Surf Club Palm Cove (% 07-4059
1244; 135 Williams Esplanade; meals $14-30;
h 6pm-late) is a great local for a drink in the
sunny garden bar. Bargain-priced seafood
plus decent kids’ meals.
Apres Beach Bar & Grill (% 07-4059
2000; www.apresbeachbar.com.au; 119 Williams
Esplanade; mains $23-39; h 7.30am-late daily) is
decked out with a zany interior of bric-a-
brac hanging from the ceiling. Regular live
music and karaoke nights keep the drinkers
entertained.
Award-winning Nu Nu (% 07-4059 1880;
www.nunu.com.au; 123 Williams Esplanade; mains
$31-47; h 11am-late Mon-Fri, 8.30am-late Sat &
Sun) has one of the highest profiles on the
coast, so you’ll need to book ahead to dine in
its designer setting. The modern Australian
dishes combine the best of Asian and Medi-
terranean cuisine. Dishes such as the red
curry barramundi and mushroom-poached
Cape Grim tenderloin will induce indecision
and the tasting menus (from $95) are good
value.
A rustic beach house near the jetty is the
setting for zingy Asian dining at Beach Al-
mond (% 07-4059 1908; www.beachalmond.com;
145 Williams Esplanade; mains $28-59; h 11am-
3pm Sat & Sun, 6-10pm daily). Black-pepper
prawns, ginger pork belly, Singaporean
mud crab and Balinese barra are among
the fragrant, freshly prepared innovations.
Live jazz on Sundays helps ease the wallet-
busting prices.
The two-storey, ice cream–coloured Para-
dise Village Shopping Centre (113 Williams
Esplanade) has a post office (with internet ac-
cess for $4 an hour), a small supermarket
and a newsagent.
Ellis Beach
Ellis Beach is the last of the northern beach-
es and the closest to the highway, which
runs right past it. The long, sheltered bay
is a stunner, with a palm-fringed, patrolled
swimming beach and stinger net in summer.
This is where the coastal drive to Port Doug-
las really gets interesting.
At Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures
(% 07-4055 3576; www.crocodileadventures.com;
adult/child $33/17.50; h 8.30am-5pm daily), daily
events include tours of the croc farm, along
with feedings, ‘crocodile attack’ shows, and
boat cruises on its lagoon.
4 37
Ellis Beach Oceanfront Bungalows
(% 1800 637 036, 07-4055 3538; www.ellisbeach.
com; Captain Cook Hwy; unpowered sites $32, pow-
ered sites $35-46, cabins without bathroom $95-115,
bungalows $155-210; ai s ) is a palm-shaded
beachfront paradise with camp sites, cabins
and contemporary bungalows that enjoy
wide­screen ocean TV.
Across the road from the Bungalows, Ellis
Beach Bar ‘n’ Grill (Captain Cook Hwy; mains
$15-28; h 8am-8pm daily) has good food, live
music some Sunday afternoons and, best of
all, pinball. If you don’t bring your own food,
it’s the only place to eat in the area.
ATHERTON TABLELAND
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef K
Waterfalls, lush green pastures complete
with well-fed dairy cows and patches of
remnant rainforest make up the tablelands,
though the bordering areas are dramati-
cally different; expect dry, harsh outback
and much thinner cattle. In some areas the
altitude reaches more than 1000m, making
this area one of the most pleasant to travel
around – weather-wise. Plenty of people
self-drive around the area, though since
most towns are close together, bike tours are
popular.
88 Getting There & Around
There are bus services to the main towns from
Cairns (generally three services on weekdays,
two on Saturday and one on Sunday), but not
to the smaller towns or all the interesting areas
Atu
G
around the towns, so it’s worth hiring your own
ehtt
reanda
wheels.
r
i ng
Trans North (p440) has regular bus services
to nT hTab
connecting Cairns with the tableland, departing
from Cairns Central Rail Station and running to
e r el e&l A
Kuranda ($8, 30 minutes), Mareeba ($16.80,
one hour), Atherton ($22, 1¾ hours) and Herber-
ton ($28, two hours).
and
John’s Kuranda Bus (% 0418 772 953) runs a
r o u nd
service between Cairns and Kuranda two to five
times daily ($5, 30 minutes).
Kerry’s (% 0427 841 483) serves Ravenshoe
($33, 2½ hours). John’s and Kerry’s buses de-
part from Cairns’ Lake St Transit Centre.
Kuranda
POP 3000
Kuranda is a hop, skip and jump – or make
that a historic train journey, sky-rail adven-
ture or winding bus trip – from Cairns. The
village itself is sprawling sets of markets
438
nestled in a spectacular tropical-rainforest
setting where you’ll find everything from
made-in-China Aboriginal art to emu oil.
The locals are a friendly bunch, well pre-
pared for the hordes of tourists that arrive
in the morning and depart with full bellies,
bags and memory cards at almost precisely
3.30pm. There’s little reason to stay over-
night, as this is really a day-trippers’ domain.
1 Sights & Activities
There are several signed walks in the mar-
kets, and a short walking track (the Jumrum
Walk) through Jumrum Creek Conserva-
tion Park (off Barron Falls Rd) leads you to
a big population of fruit bats.
Further south, Barron Falls Rd divides:
the left fork will take you to a wheelchair-
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef K
accessible lookout over the Barron Falls,
while the right fork becomes the Jungle
Walk section of the trail and leads down to
the Barron River. From there, the River Walk
leads back up to the Scenic Railway station
and back into town.
Kuranda Original
Rainforest Markets MARKET
(www.kurandaoriginalrainforestmarket.com.au; Ther-
wine St; h 9am-3pm) With revamped board-
walks terraced in the rainforest and wafting
incense, the original markets first opened in
1978 and are still the best place to pick up
hemp products, handicraft, and sample local
produce such as honey and fruit wines.
Heritage Markets MARKET
(www.kurandamarkets.com.au; Rob Veivers Dr;
Atiughrheanda
S
h 9am-3pm) Across the road from the origi-
nal markets, the heritage markets overflow
ts
r to&nAct
with souvenirs and crafts such as ceramics,
emu oil, jewellery, clothing, secondhand
Tabi vlietli and
books and that kangaroo scrotum bottle
opener you’ve always wanted.
Rainforestation ZOO
es
(% 07-4085 5008; www.rainforest.com.au; Kennedy
Hwy; adult/child $40/21; h 9am-4pm) An enor-
mous tourist park east of town with a wild-
life section, river cruises and an Aboriginal
show.
Shambala Animal Kingdom ZOO
(% 07-4093 7777; www.shambalaanimalkingdom.
com.au; Kennedy Hwy; adult/child $28/14, morn-
ing feeding sessions $50/30; h 9am-4.30pm
daily) Spot safari animals and catch morning
animal-feeding sessions with lions; 9km
west of Kuranda.
Kuranda Koala Gardens ANIMAL SANCTUARY
(% 07-4093 9953; www.koalagardens.com; Heritage
Markets, Rob Veivers Dr; adult/child $16.50/8.25;
h 9.45am-4pm daily) Check out native Aussie
animals such as koalas, wallabies, wombats
and reptiles galore.
Australian ¨
Butterfly Sanctuary ANIMAL SANCTUARY
(% 07-4093 7575; www.australianbutterflies.com; 8
Rob Veivers Dr; adult/child $18/9; h 9.45am-4pm
daily) Flighty, pretty things. Half-hour tours
available.
Birdworld ANIMAL SANCTUARY
(% 07-4093 9188; www.birdworldkuranda.com; Her-
itage Markets, Rob Veivers Dr; adult/child $16.50/
8.25; h 9am-4pm) In the Heritage Markets;
home to 80 bird species.
Australian Venom Zoo ZOO
(% 07-4093 8905; www.tarantulas.com.au; 8 Coon-
doo St; adult/child $16/10; h 10am-4pm daily) For
lovers of reptiles and creepy crawlies.
Kuranda Riverboat CRUISE
(% 07-4093 7476; adult/child $15/7; h hourly
10.45am-2.30pm) Behind the train station.
Hop aboard for a 45-minute calm-water
cruise along the Barron River.
4 Sleeping & Eating
Kuranda Rainforest Park CAMPGROUND $
(% 07-4093 7316; www.kurandarainforestpark.com.
au; 88 Kuranda Heights Rd; unpowered/powered
sites $28/30, s/d without bathroom $30/60, cab-
ins $95-110; Ws ) This excellent, well-tended
park lives up to its name with grassy camp-
ing sites enveloped in rainforest. The basic
but cosy private ‘backpacker rooms’ open to
a tin-roofed timber deck, cabins come with
poolside or garden views, and there’s an
on-site restaurant (mains $14 to $36, open
6pm to 10pm Wednesday to Sunday). It’s a
10-minute walk from town via a forest trail.
Kuranda Hotel Motel MOTEL $$
(% 07-4093 7206; www.kurandahotel.com.au;
cnr Coondoo & Arara Sts; d $120; a s ) Locally
known as the ‘bottom pub’, the back of the
Kuranda Hotel Motel has spacious ’70s-style
motel rooms with exposed brick and tinted
crinkle-cut glass. The pub is open for lunch
daily and dinner Thursday to Saturday.
oPetit Cafe CREPERIE $
(www.petitcafekuranda.com; Shop 35, Kuranda
Original Rainforest Markets; crepes $10-17) Tucked
at the back of the original markets, le French
 666
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3 Cairns Wildlife Safari Park rro le 3
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Reserve (8km); Mareeba (35km) lk
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s Dr
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A B C D

Kuranda
æ Sights ÿ Sleeping
1 Australian Butterfly Sanctuary............. C2 7 Kuranda Hotel Motel...............................D2
2 Australian Venom Zoo ........................... C2 8 Kuranda Rainforest Park........................ A1
Birdworld ..........................................(see 3)
3 Heritage Markets .................................... C2 ú Eating
4 Kuranda Koala Gardens......................... B2 9 Annabel's Pantry .....................................C2
5 Kuranda Original Rainforest 10 German Tucker........................................C2
Markets ................................................. C2 11 Kuranda Coffee
Atluh
S

Republic.................................................C2
ereeanda

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 12 Petit Cafe.................................................. C1

prito

6 Kuranda Riverboat...................................D1 13 Sweet Leaf Living Foods.........................C2

ngn&Tab
Eatl ieng

chef Aurelien Breguet whips up a mouth- sate your appetite while the hippie owner
watering range of crepes with savoury or regales you with little-known facts about co-
l and

sweet fillings. Fresh produce and winning conut trees in Australia.

combinations such as macadamia pesto and
feta cheese make this the only place to eat if German Tucker GERMAN, AUSTRALIAN $

you’re short on time. (Therwine St; dishes $6-16, beers from $6; h 10am-
2.30pm daily) Emu, crocodile or kangaroo
Kuranda Coffee Republic CAFE $ sausages with sauerkraut? German Tucker
(10 Thongon St; coffees $3.50-5.50; h 8am-4pm serves extreme Australiana/traditional Ger-
Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun) Food is basically man fare and German beer.
limited to biscotti but have a chat with locals
over your latte at this popular coffee shop. Annabel’s Pantry BAKERY $
(Therwine St; pies $4.50-5; h 10am-3pm daily; v )
Sweet Leaf Living Foods ORGANIC, VEGAN $ With around 25 pie varieties, including kan-
(Shop 39, Kuranda Original Rainforest Markets; garoo and spinach-and-feta rolls, Annabel’s
dishes $9.50-12.50; h 10am-3pm Wed-Sun; v ) is great for lunch on a budget.
Organic vegan juices, wraps and salads to
440
88 Information
The Kuranda visitor centre (% 07-4093 9311;
www.kuranda.org; Centenary Park; h 10am-
4pm) is centrally located in Centenary Park.
88 Getting There & Away
Trans North (% 07-4095 8644; www.trans­
northbus.com) has five daily bus services from
Cairns Central Rail Station to Kuranda ($8, 30
minutes). This is the cheapest way, though the
other options are more spectacular.
Winding 34km from Cairns to Kuranda through
picturesque mountains and 15 tunnels, the
Kuranda Scenic Railway (% 07-4036 9333;
www.ksr.com.au) line took five years to build
and opened in 1891. The 1¾-hour trip costs
$48/24 per adult/child one way, and $72/36
return. Trains depart from Cairns at 8.30am and
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M
9.30am daily, returning from pretty Kuranda
station on Arara St at 2pm and 3.30pm.
At 7.5km, Skyrail Rainforest Cableway
(% 07-4038 1555; www.skyrail.com.au; adult/
child one way $45/22.50, return $68/34;
h 9am-5.15pm) is one of the world’s longest
gondola cableways. The Skyrail runs from the
corner of Kemerunga Rd and the Cook Hwy
in the northern Cairns suburb of Smithfield
(15 minutes’ drive north of Cairns) to Kuranda
(Arara St), taking 90 minutes. It includes two
stops along the way with boardwalks and
interpretive panels. The last departure from
Cairns and Kuranda is at 3.30pm; transfers are
available to/from the Cairns departure terminal.
Combination Scenic Railway and Skyrail deals
are available. As space is limited, only day packs
are allowed on board; advance bookings are
recommended.
Atafo
In
hreerremat
Mareeba
to
bani oTab
POP 10,200
At the centre of industrious cattle, coffee
and sugar enterprises, Mareeba is essentially
n l e l and
an administrative and supply town for the
northern tableland and parts of Cape York
Peninsula. The main street boasts some
quaint old facades (it almost passes for a
midwest American town), and the region’s
natural beauty is typified by the expansive
wetlands to the north. Mareeba is more
desert than tableland but has some wonder-
ful attractions nearby. If you’re around in
mid-July, don the RM Williams boots and be
sure to see the Mareeba Rodeo (www.maree-
barodeo.com.au) at Kerribee Park.
There’s plenty of seasonal work, with man-
go season from January to March and avoca-
do work from February to March. Check out
the QITE website (www.qite.com.au).
1 Sights & Activities
First stop is the Mareeba Heritage Mu-
seum & Tourist Information Centre (% 07-
4092 5674; www.mareebaheritagecentre.com.au;
Centenary Park, 345 Byrnes St; h 8am-4pm)
F, which has helpful staff and a huge
room filled with displays on the area’s past
and present commercial industries, as well
as its natural surrounds.
Mareeba Wetlands PARK
(% 07-4093 2514; www.mareebawetlands.org;
adult/child $15/7.50; h 9am-4.30pm Apr-Jan)
This is a 20-sq-km reserve of woodlands,
grasslands, swamps and the expansive
Clancy’s Lagoon, a bird-watchers’ nirvana.
Over 12km of walking trails criss-cross the
wetlands. Various safari tours (from $38)
depart during the week, or you can take a
30-minute eco-cruise (adult/child $15/7.50)
or paddle in a canoe ($15 per hour). The on-
site Jabiru Safari Lodge (% 07-4093 2514;
ww.jabirusafarilodge.com.au; cabins per person
incl breakfast $128-150, all inclusive $198-229) has
solar-powered tented cabins and a spa. Take
the Pickford Rd turn-off from Biboohra, 7km
north of Mareeba.
Granite Gorge Nature Park PARK
(% 07-4093 2259; www.granitegorge.com.au; adult/
child $7.50/2) Granite Gorge Nature Park is a
privately owned park with huge granite boul-
ders, rock wallabies, walking tracks and wa-
terfalls tumbling into a croc-free swimming
hole. There are picnic areas, a campground
(unpowered/powered sites per person includ-
ing park entry $12/14) and self-contained cab-
ins ($95). Granite Gorge is 12km southwest of
Mareeba along Chewko Rd, from where the
turn-off is signposted to your right.
Mt Uncle Distillery DISTILLERY
(% 07-4086 8008; www.mtuncle.com; 1819 Chewko
Rd, Walkamin; h 10am-4.30pm daily) Mt Uncle Dis-
tillery produces whisky, as well as rum, honey
vodka and seasonal liqueurs (tastings $10).
Don’t miss a meal at its understated Bridges
Cafe (mains $10-19), hand-built by the owners
from the timber of a former local bridge. The
wood-fired pizzas are delicious. It’s signposted
along Chewko Rd, 15.5km south of Mareeba.
4 Sleeping & Eating
Kerribee Park ¨
Camping Grounds CAMPGROUND $
(% 07-4092 1654; www.mareebarodeo.com.au;
Mareeba Rodeo Grounds, 614 Dimbulah Rd; unpow-

ered/powered sites $10/14) Cheap camping but
no shade.
Jackaroo Motel MOTEL $$
(% 07-4092 2677; www.jackaroomotel.com; 340
Byrnes St; d $130; aWs ) Mareeba’s most
upmarket motel has a saltwater swimming
pool and a barbecue area.
Mareeba Lodge MOTEL $$
(% 07-4092 2266; www.mareebalodge.com.au; 21
Byrnes St; s $90-100, d $100-110; a ) Friendly
motel, situated in a central location.
Ant Hill Hotel & Steakhouse STEAKHOUSE $$
(% 07-4092 2147; 79 Byrnes St; mains $15-30;
h lunch & dinner) At this pub in the town
centre you’ll find tasty specials with all the
classics – barra, burgers and steak, and a
bargain bar menu (mains $10).
Chillagoe
POP 350
Even on a day trip from Cairns, the charis-
matic former gold-rush town of Chillagoe,
about 140km west of Mareeba, can fulfil any
romantic notion you may have of the out-
back – but owing to the distance involved in
travelling here, an overnight stay is prefer-
able.
Chillagoe’s excellent visitor centre, the
Hub (% 07-4094 7111; www.chillagoehub.com.au;
Queen St; h 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3.30pm
Sat & Sun), has interesting historical displays.
Knowledgeable staff can direct you to Indig-
enous rock-art sites, the local swimming
hole, the old smelter site, a hodge-podge
little history museum with a piano played
during silent movies, and an eccentric lo-
cal with a cool old Ford collection. It also
books ranger-guided tours of Chillagoe’s
amazing, must-see limestone caves (adult/
child $31/16.50). Three of the 500-plus caves
can be visited: Donna (h 9am), Trezkin
(h 11am) and Royal Arch (h 1.30pm). There
are several other caves you can self-explore
but bring a torch/headlamp and wear sturdy
shoes.
The annual Chillagoe Rodeo (www.chilla-
goerodeo.com.au) takes place in May.
Rustic-on-the-outside, modern-on-the-
inside miners shacks make up Chillagoe
Cabins (% 07-4094 7206; www.chillagoe.com;
Queen St; s/d $108/140; as ), where the own-
er has a small wildlife-rescue menagerie and
offers town tours (from $20). There’s a camp
kitchen and barbecue, or you can order
441
home-cooked meals. Chillagoe’s former post
office is now the Chillagoe Guesthouse
(% 07-4222 1135; www.chillagoeguesthouse.com.
au; 16-18 Queen St; d $120-140, units $140-300;
aW ). Rates include a brekkie hamper and
free wi-fi.
The Chillagoe Bus Service (% 07-4094
7155; adult/child $38/29) departs from Chil-
lagoe on Monday, Wednesday and Friday,
returning from Mareeba on the same days.
Billy Tea Bush Safaris (www.billytea.com.au;
tours adult/child $195/140) runs day tours from
Cairns.
Atherton
POP 7300
Atherton, the ‘capital’ of the tableland, is a
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C
farming town with little to offer travellers
but a rest in the journey, or a chance to get
their hands and shoes dirty picking fruit
and vegetables year-round. The Atherton
Tableland Information Centre (% 07-4096
7405; www.athertontablelands.com.au; cnr Main &
Silo Rds) has useful information, including
self-drive itineraries, Australia-wide booking
facilities and seasonal work updates.
As you approach Atherton from Herber-
ton in the southwest, you see the Hou Wang
Temple (www.houwang.org.au; 86 Herberton Rd;
adult/child $10/5; h 11am-4pm Wed-Sun), which
is testament to the Chinese migrants who
flocked to the area to search for gold in the
late 1800s. It’s the only Chinese temple in
Australia built of corrugated iron and is on
the site of Atherton’s former Chinatown. Atlhh
S
The Crystal Caves (% 07-4091 2365; www.
ei leelprag
crystalcaves.com.au; 69 Main St; adult/child $23/15;
h 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat, 10am-4pm
ito
ngone&Tab
Sun, closed Feb) is a mineralogical museum in
an artificial grotto that winds for a block un-
Eatl ieng
der Atherton’s streets. It houses rose-quartz
boulders, dazzling blue topaz and assorted
fossils. Don a hard hat and check out the
l and
pièce de résistance – the world’s largest am-
ethyst geode, a 3.25m, 2.7-tonne giant exca-
vated from Uruguay.
The Barron Valley Hotel (% 07-4091 1222;
www.bvhotel.com.au; 53 Main St; s/d without bath-
room $40/60, with bathroom $60/85; a W ) is
a heritage-listed art-deco beauty, with tidy
rooms popular with long-term guests, and a
restaurant serving hearty meals (mains $18
to $35).
Perched on Hallorans Hill, the Atherton
Blue Gum B&B (% 07-4091 5149; www.ather-
tonbluegum.com; 36 Twelfth Ave; d $130-180; a s )
442
has superb views from the verandah. Rooms
have pine panelling and big windows, and
there’s a heated pool and spa. There’s a new-
er sister property up the road.
Woodlands Tourist Park (% 07-4091
1407; www.woodlandscp.com.au; 141 Herberton Rd;
unpowered/powered sites $27/35, cabins $90-140;
a W s ) is a favourite with families thanks
to its waterfall pool and playground. It also
has refurbished miners-quarters rooms with
polished floorboards, and there are shared
cooking facilities and free wi-fi. The park is
1.5km south of the centre.
Lake Tinaroo & Around
Lake Tinaroo is a mecca for the Aussie who
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef Lak
loves nothing but setting up the tent, open-
ing up the esky and planning for a day’s fish-
ing. The enormous artificial lake and dam
were originally created for the Barron River
hydroelectric power scheme, and drowned
trees still poke their bones out of the water.
Tinaroo Falls, at the northwestern corner of
the lake, is the main settlement.
Barramundi fishing is legendary in
the croc-free artificial lake and is permit-
ted year-round. Fishing permits (per week/
year $7.45/37, children free) covering all of
Queensland’s dams are readily available
from local businesses and accommodation
places, or order online at Queensland’s
Department of Primary Industries (www.
dpi.qld.gov.au/fishweb). Head out for a fish or
simply a sunset cruise with a glass of wine
aboard the super-comfy ‘floating lounge
Atl h
S
room’ skippered by Lake Tinaroo Cruises
e eeprTito
(% 0457 033 016; www.laketinaroocruises.com.au;
2/4hr boat charters $200/300). Rates are for
ng
i na
the whole boat (up to 12 people).
n&
rTab
The Barra Bash (www.tinaroobarrabash.
oEat
o l&ieng
com.au) fishing competition is held annually
during October around the full moon; it’s a
A
l and
great event attracting loads of people.
r o u nd
The Danbulla Forest Drive winds its
way through rainforest and softwood plan-
tations along the north side of the lake. It’s
28km of unsealed but well-maintained road
passing a number of picnic areas and attrac-
tions, including pretty Lake Euramoo and
the Cathedral Fig – a gigantic strangler fig
tree shouldering epiphytes nestling in its
branches. The tree is accessed by a board-
walk and signposted along a sealed road off
the Gilles Hwy. There are five Queensland
Parks campgrounds (% 13 74 68; www.nprsr.
qld.gov.au; permits $5.45) in the Danbulla State
Forest. All have water, barbecues and toilets;
advance bookings are essential.
In Tinaroo Falls, the Discovery Lake
Tinaroo Holiday Park (% 07-4095 8232; www.
discoveryholidayparks.com.au; 3 Tinaroo Falls Dam
Rd; unpowered/powered sites $27/31, cabins $89-
129; aiWs ) is a modern, well-equipped
and shady camping ground with fuel, a
small shop and an on-site cafe (mains $10.50
to $17). It also rents out tinnies ($90 per
half-day) and canoes ($10 per hour).
Yungaburra
POP 1150
Only 12km from Atherton is this friendly
town packed with charming cafes, excellent
restaurants, day spas and some of the best
accommodation in the region. The locals and
architecture give this town its quaint village
atmosphere, and it’s the ideal spot to hang
your backpack and establish a base for the
surrounding area. Yungaburra Information
Centre (% 07-4095 2416; www.yungaburra.com;
16 Cedar St) doles out town and regional info.
The Tablelands Folk Festival (http://tff.
fnqnet.org/festival; tickets $55, camping $22.50) is
a fabulous weekend-long community event
held in Yungaburra and Herberton every
October. It features music, workshops, per-
formances and a market. The Yungaburra
Markets (www.yungaburramarkets.com; Gillies
Hwy; h 7.30am-12.30pm) are held in town on
the fourth Saturday of every month; at this
time the town is besieged by avid craft and
food shoppers. About 3km out of town, the
magnificent 500-year-old Curtain Fig is a
must-see. Looking like a Lord of the Rings
prop, it has aerial roots that hang down to
create a feathery curtain.
Yungaburra has two platypus-viewing
platforms on Peterson Creek – one by the
bridge on the Gillies Hwy and another at a
spot known as Allumbah Pocket (the town’s
original name) further west. The two are
joined by a 2km walking trail along the
creek, which continues east to Railway
Bridge.
On the Wallaby (% 07-4095 2031; www.
onthewallaby.com; 34 Eacham Rd; tours from $99,
night canoeing $30) runs excellent half-day
bike and canoe tours – including wildlife
spotting while night canoeing. Nonguests
are welcome. Tableland Adventure Guides
(% 0448 517 979; www.tablelandadventureguides.
com.au; half-day tours min 2 people from $95)
runs guided bike tours along tracks and rail

trails, kayaking on Lake Tinaroo and hiking
in World Heritage rainforest.
4 Sleeping
On the Wallaby HOSTEL $
(% 07-4095 2031; www.onthewallaby.com; 34 Ea-
cham Rd; camping $10, dm/d shared bathroom
$24/55; i ) With handmade timber furniture
and mosaics, and spotless rooms (without
TV), it’s easy to feel at home here. Nature-
based tours depart daily; tour packages and
transfers ($30 one way) are available from
Cairns.
Kookaburra Lodge MOTEL $
(% 07-4095 3222; www.kookaburra-lodge.com;
cnr Oak St & Eacham Rd; s/d $80/90; a ) Stylish
little rooms opening out to restful tropical
gardens.
Williams Lodge B&B $$$
(% 07-4095 3449; www.williamslodge.com; Cedar
St; d $170-275; aiWs ) Built in 1911 and
still owned and run by the Williams family,
all of the rooms in this heritage Queens-
lander open onto the verandah, including
enormous suites fitted with original period
furniture and four-poster beds (some with
spa baths). Grand touches include a pianola
lounge, a wine bar and a billiard table. Un-
der 12s aren’t allowed.
Foxwell Park B&B $$$
(% 07-4096 6183; www.foxwellpark.com.au; Foxwell
Rd; r $200-250; iW ) In rolling countryside
7km southwest of Yungaburra, Foxwell’s
beautifully restored pair of century-old tim-
ber buildings have original tiles and pressed-
tin ceilings. Suites open onto deep, private
verandahs overlooking the 24-hectare es-
tate. Excellent French-inspired restaurant
(mains $25 to $35; open dinner Wednesday
to Sunday, nightly for guests).
Mt Quincan Crater Retreat CABIN $$$
(% 07-4095 2255; www.mtquincan.com.au; Peera-
mon Rd; d $245-320; W ) In secluded rainforest,
these luxurious pole cabins and tree houses
have been built for sheer countryside indul-
gence, with double spas, indoor and outdoor
showers, wood fires and stupendous views.
Children aren’t permitted. It’s 3km south of
town; follow the road to Peeramon to the
signposted turn-off.
5 Eating & Drinking
Whistlestop Cafe CAFE $
(% 07-4095 3913; 36 Cedar St; mains $9-15;
h 9.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat, 8am-
443
noon Sun; v ) This garden-set cafe serves
breakfast, rice slices and vegie lasagne, but
leave room for the souffle-style Tuscany
chocolate cake.
oFlynn’s MEDITERRANEAN $$
(% 07-4095 2235; 17 Eacham Rd; mains lunch $6-19,
dinner $30, 3-course menus $50; h 11am-2.30pm
& 5.30-10.30pm Fri-Tue) Between ducking out-
side to pick his own vegies and running the
whole place almost single-handedly, Kiwi
culinary maestro Liam has managed to put
Yungaburra on the foodie map. The menu
changes daily, but expect a mix of Italian,
French and Mediterranean dishes such as
duck liver cognac pâté and fish of the day.
Lunch is simpler but just as good.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C
Nick’s Restaurant SWISS, ITALIAN $$
(% 07-4095 9330; www.nicksrestaurant.com.au; 33
Gillies Hwy; mains $16.50-36.50; h 11.30am-3pm Sat
& Sun, 5.30-11pm Tue-Sun; v ) This Swiss chalet–
style number makes for a fun night out, with
costumed staff, beer steins, a piano-accordi-
on serenade and possibly some impromptu
yodelling. Food spans schnitzels to bratwurst
and pasta, plus several vegetarian options.
Nick also owns the pizzeria next door.
Lake Eacham Hotel PUB
(% 07-4095 3515; 6-8 Kehoe Pl; h bar 11am-11pm)
Better known as the ‘Yungaburra Pub’, down
a pint at this local and admire the swirling
wooden staircase of this grand old hotel.
Crater Lakes National Atlrh
S
Park & Around
eat
eepr
Part of the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area,
eir
to
the two mirror-like crater lakes of Lake Ea-
ng
Lak
cham and Lake Barrine are both croc-free
n Tab
and nestled among rainforest easily reached
e s lNeat
by sealed roads off the Gillies Hwy. Camping
is not permitted.
l and
The larger of the two lakes, Lake Barrine
i o na l Pa r k & A r o u nd
is cloaked in thick old-growth rainforest;
a 5km walking track around its edge takes
about 1½ hours. The Lake Barrine Rainfor-
est Tea House (% 07-4095 3847; www.lakebar-
rine.com.au; Gillies Hwy; mains $7.50-18; h 8am-
3pm daily) sits out over the lakefront. Upstairs
you’ll feel like you’re aboard a boat as you
take Devonshire tea or order a meal. To ac-
tually be aboard a boat, visit the booking
desk downstairs for 45-minute lake cruises
(adult/child $16/8; h 9.30am, 11.30am, 1.30pm). A
100m stroll away are two enormous, neck-
tilting, 1000-year-old kauri pines.
444
The crystal-clear waters of Lake Eacham
are ideal for swimming and spotting turtles;
there are sheltered lakeside picnic areas, a
swimming pontoon and a boat ramp. The
3km lake-circuit track is an easy walk and
takes less than an hour. Stop in at the Rain-
forest Display Centre (McLeish Rd; h 9am-
1pm Mon, Wed & Fri) at the ranger station for
information on the area.
The pretty Lake Eacham Caravan Park
(% 07-4095 3730; www.lakeeachamtouristpark.
com; Lakes Dr; unpowered/powered sites $19/25,
cabins $90-110; i ), 1km down the Malanda
road from Lake Eacham, has cosy cabins
and its cafe serves breakfast, light lunches
and tea.
Crater Lakes Rainforest Cottages
(% 07-4095 2322; www.craterlakes.com.au; Lot 17,
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M
Eacham Cl, Lake Eacham; d $240; ai ) has four
individually themed timber cottages. Ideally
spaced in its own private patch of rainfor-
est, each is a romantic hideaway filled with
candles, fresh flowers, and logs for the wood
stoves, with spa baths, fully fitted kitchens
and breakfast hampers with bacon, eggs
and chocolates, plus fruit to feed the birds.
There’s no minimum stay, but you probably
won’t want to leave. The cottages are off
Lakes Dr.
Rose Gums (% 07-4096 8360; www.rose­
gums.com.au; Land Rd, Butcher’s Creek; d $297
& $342) offers totally private, eco-friendly
treetop pads that are fitted out with spas,
wood-burning heaters and king-size beds.
All come with breakfast hampers, kitchens
and barbecues, but you can also dine on
Atahlieanda
Eat
Mediterranean cuisine at the on-site res-
taurant (mains $35, open 5.30pm to 10pm).
ng
r to&nD&Tab
Minimum stay is two nights.
rAi nk
Malanda & Around
r loeiung
POP 2050
lnd
Forming the eastern part of the Atherton–
and
Yungaburra–Malanda triangle is this little
town 15km south of Lake Eacham. Its claim
to fame is that it has the nation’s longest
continually running picture theatre, the
Majestic (established 1927), but locals are
still mightily proud that Australian cricketer
Don Bradman played cricket here.
Guided rainforest walks (per person $15),
led by members of the Ngadjonji commu-
nity, can be organised through Malanda’s
visitor centre (% 07-4095 1234; www.ma-
landafalls.com) at the Malanda Dairy Centre
(% 07-4095 1234; www.malandadairycentre.com; 8
James St; tours adult/child $11/7; h 10am & 11am
Mon-Fri). The dairy centre offers 40-minute
factory tours including a cheese platter or
milkshake. Its licensed cafe (mains $14-28;
v ) is the best place to eat in town.
Along the Atherton road, on the outskirts
of town, are Malanda Falls, home to saw-
shelled turtles and red-legged pademelons.
Right next to Malanda Falls, Malanda Falls
Caravan Park (% 07-4096 5314; www.malanda-
falls.com.au; 38 Park Ave; unpowered/powered sites
$18/22, cabins $75-85) has tidy cabins and
camp sites within earshot of the flowing
falls. Kids will love the on-site animal pen.
On the Millaa Millaa Rd, 10km from Ma-
landa, is the tiny village of Tarzali, which
offers some accommodation options in-
cluding the lovely Tarzali Pewtermill B&B
(% 07-4094 1122; www.tarzalipewtermill.com;
52 Sheehan Rd, Tarzali; d $95-110; a ). Tarzali
Lakes Fishing Park (% 07-4097 2713; www.tar-
zalilakes.com; Millaa Millaa Rd, Tarzali; fishing 2hr/
day $20/40; h 10am-4pm Thu-Tue) has artificial
lakes stocked with jade perch and barra-
mundi; you can fish or just buy your ‘catch’
and other food smoked on-site at the cafe
(mains $10.50 to $36). There’s plenty of bird
life here, plus self-guided platypus-spotting
tours ($5).
The superbly designed all-timber pole
houses of the Canopy (% 07-4096 5364; www.
canopytreehouses.com.au; Hogan Rd, Tarzali, via
Malanda; d $229-349; W ) S are set amid a pris-
tine patch of old-growth rainforest. There’s
a minimum two-night stay. Surrounded by
forest on the Johnstone River, Rivers Edge
Rainforest Retreat (% 07-4095 2369; www.
riversedgeretreat.com.au; d from $298; a i ) has
two secluded luxury timber lodges with lav-
ish touches like a sliding-glass wall in the
spa bathroom and a wood fire. It’s a mini-
mum two-night stay.
Travellers Rest (% 07-4096 6077; 1720
Millaa Millaa Rd, Tarzali; s/d without bathroom incl
breakfast $60/95), an English-style country
farmhouse 5km south of Malanda, is a cosy
budget place with a billiard room, a formal
dining room and fresh, floral rooms. Book
ahead for Saturday’s murder-mystery nights.
Millaa Millaa & the
Waterfall Circuit
Why stop at one waterfall when you can visit
four (!) along this 16km ‘waterfall circuit’
near Millaa Millaa, 24km south of Malanda?
Start by taking Theresa Creek Rd, 1km east

of Millaa Millaa on Palmerston Hwy. Millaa
Millaa Falls, the largest, has a swimming
hole, change rooms and a grassy picnic spot.
Continuing round the circuit, you reach Zil-
lie Falls, where you can watch Teresa Creek
falling into the abyss. Step down past fern
fronds to the rocky Ellinjaa Falls before re-
turning to the Palmerston Hwy, just 2.5km
out of Millaa Millaa. A further 5.5km down
the Palmerston Hwy there’s a turn-off to
Mungalli Falls, 5km off the highway.
At the country-style Mungalli Creek
Dairy (% 07-4097 2232; www.mungallicreekdairy.
com.au; 251 Brooks Rd; meals $18; h 10am-4pm,
closed Feb), 3km off Palmerston Hwy, you can
sample cheeses and creamy yoghurts or or-
der cooked dishes like three-cheese pie fol-
lowed by a sinfully rich Sicilian cheesecake.
A little further along the Palmerston Hwy
from Mungalli Creek Dairy is the Mamu
Rainforest Canopy Walkway (p412).
At the Falls Teahouse (% 07-4097 2237;
www.fallsteahouse.com.au; Palmerston Hwy; s/d
incl breakfast $65/120; h 10am-5pm daily), you
can sit next to the pot-belly stove, or on the
back verandah overlooking rolling farmland
to tuck into dishes such as pan-fried barra
and local beef pies (meals $7 to $23). The
three guest rooms are individually decorat-
ed with period furniture. It’s at the intersec-
tion of the Millaa Millaa Falls turn-off.
Herberton
POP 2164
Herberton is a lovely town dotted with jac­
aranda trees and perched on a hilly area
abutting the outback. Wonderful heritage
buildings line the main street, which leads
to the riverside site of a former tin mine.
Herberton’s star attraction is the Herber-
ton Historic Village (% 07-4097 2002; www.
herbertonhistoricvillage.com.au; 6 Broadway; adult/
child $25/12; h 9am-5pm, last entry 3.30pm), a
collection of 50 original buildings dating
back as far as 1870 that have been moved
here from various locales, restored and
filled with some fascinating historic exhib-
its. Highlights include a pub, a blacksmith’s
workshop, Ada’s frock salon, a school house
and a grocery store.
Situated on the site of an old tin mine,
the Herberton Mining Museum & Infor-
mation Centre (% 07-4096 3473; www.herber-
tonvisitorcentre.com.au; 1 Jacks Rd, Great Northern
Mining Centre; museum adult/child $5/3; h 9am-
4pm) has an informative display on the re-
445
gion’s mining history and geology, including
a gallery of minerals. It’s the starting point
for a number of historic walking trails
(from 1km to 12km) and stocks trail maps.
The best place to eat in town is the laid-
back Jacaranda Coffee Lounge (% 07-4096
2177; 52 Grace St; dishes $6-18; h 9.30am-7.30pm
Tue-Fri) where you can chow down on fish
burgers, steak sandwiches and even Asian-
style dishes.
Accommodation is limited; try Herber-
ton’s original post office, which is now the
Herberton Heritage Cottage B&B (% 0427
962 670; www.herbertonheritagecottage.com.au; 2
Perkins St; r $155; a ). The two heritage-style
rooms incorporate mod cons like spas and
DVD players.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef H
Mt Hypipamee
National Park
Between Atherton and Ravenshoe, the
Kennedy Hwy passes the eerie, and hard to
pronounce, Mt Hypipamee crater, which
could be a scene from a sci-fi film and cer-
tainly adds some vertigo to the itinerary. It’s
a scenic 700m (return) walk from the pic-
nic area, past Dinner Falls, to this narrow,
138m-deep crater with its moody-looking
lake far below.
R avenshoe
POP 1442
Ravenshoe (pronounced hoe, not shoe) is
home to ‘Queensland’s Highest Pub’: Ho-
Ateh
Eat
tel Tully Falls stands proudly at the tip of
riebng
this town at the grand altitude of 930m.
re to
r&
Ravenshoe Visitor Centre (% 07-4097 7700;
to
nDnTab
www.ravenshoevisitorcentre.com.au; 24 Moore
r i nkl ei ng
St; h 9am-4pm daily) has helpful staff and is
home to the Nganyaji Interpretive Centre,
which explains the Jirrbal people’s tradi-
l and
tional lifestyle. Six kilometres northeast are
20 wind turbines that comprise the Windy
Hill Wind Farm, fascinating when viewed
up close.
Nearby waterfalls (no swimming) in-
clude Little Millstream Falls, 3km south of
Ravenshoe; and Tully Falls, around 20km
further south on the Tully Falls Rd (which
doesn’t go through to Tully). The 13m-high
Millstream Falls (signposted off the Savan-
nah Way towards Innot Hot Springs, from
where it’s 1km to the car park) are said to be
the widest in Australia in flood.
446
Off the Kennedy Hwy, down a 4.5km un-
sealed road, Possum Valley B&B (% 07-4097
8177; www.bnbnq.com.au/possumvalley; Evelyn
Central, via Ravenshoe; s/d $60/75) S consists
of two cottages clinging to the fringe of
World Heritage–listed rainforest. The B&B
uses solar and hydroelectricity and tank
water.
PORT DOUGLAS TO
COOKTOWN
Port Douglas
POP 3205
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef P
Port Douglas (or just ‘Port’) is the flashy
playground of tropical northern Queens-
land. For those looking to escape Cairns’
bustling traveller scene, Port Douglas is
more sophisticated and more intimate. It
also has a beautiful white-sand beach right
on its doorstep, and the Great Barrier Reef is
less than an hour offshore.
Accommodation options are spread
all over the region, and the larger resorts
spread themselves along the 6km-long Port
Douglas Rd that links Captain Cook Hwy
with the town centre. Busy, centre-of-town
Macrossan St links the jetty and pier with
Four Mile Beach on Trinity Bay.
1 Sights & Activities
On a sunny, calm day, Four Mile Beach will
take your breath away. It is sand and palm
S iogrhtts
trees for as far as you can see – head up to
Flagstaff Hill (Island Point Rd) lookout for a
D o&uAct
great view.
At the Cooktown Hwy turn-off, Wildlife
g l as
Habitat Port Douglas (% 07-4099 3235; www.
wildlifehabitat.com.au; Port Douglas Rd; adult/
i v ito
child $32/16; h 8am-5pm) endeavours to keep
t i eCso o kto wn
and showcase native animals, such as tree
kangaroos, in enclosures that closely mimic
their natural environment. It’s located at the
entrance to Port Douglas, off Captain Cook
Hwy, about 6km from the town centre.
On Sunday the grassy foreshore of Anzac
Park spills over with the excellent Port
Douglas Markets (end of Macrossan St; h 8am-
1.30pm Sun). You’ll find stalls selling arts,
crafts and jewellery, local tropical fruits,
food stalls and even massage tents.
The Port Douglas Yacht Club (% 07-4099
4386; www.portdouglasyachtclub.com.au; 1 Spinna-
ker Cl) offers free sailing with club members
every Wednesday afternoon. It’s a great way
to get out on the water and meet some locals.
Several companies offer PADI open-water
certification as well as advanced dive certifi-
cates, including Blue Dive (% 0427 983 907;
www.bluedive.com.au; 4-5 day open-water courses
from $750). For one-on-one instruction, learn
with Tech Dive Academy (% 07-3040 1699;
www.tech-dive-academy.com; 4-day open-water
courses from $1090).
Port Douglas Boat Hire BOATING
(% 07-4099 6277; Berth C1, Marina Mirage; per hr
$33-43) Rents a range of boats, including din-
ghies ($33 per hour) and canopied, family-
friendly pontoon boats ($43 per hour) to
take on the inlet. Fishing gear available.
St Mary’s by the Sea
CHURCH
(6 Dixie St) F Worth a peek inside, this
white timber church was built in 1911 and
relocated to its seaside position in 1989.
Wind Swell WATERSPORTS
(% 0427 498 042; www.windswell.com.au; from
$149) Offers kite surfing, paddle boarding
and wakeboarding for everyone from begin-
ners to high flyers.
T Tours
The unrelenting surge of visitors to the reef
off Port Douglas has impacted on its general
condition, and although you’ll still see col-
ourful corals and marine life, it has become
patchy in parts. Tours typically make two to
three stops on the outer and ribbon reefs,
including St Crispins, Agincourt, Chinaman
and Tongue Reefs. Trip prices generally in-
clude reef tax, snorkelling and transfers
from your accommodation, plus lunch and
refreshments. Add around $250 for an intro-
ductory dive. Certified divers will pay around
$250 for two dives with all gear included.
Several operators offer cruises to Low Isles,
a coral cay surrounded by a lagoon and topped
by a lighthouse. The cay offers good snorkel-
ling and the chance to see turtle-nesting
grounds. Trips leave from Marina Mirage.
There are numerous outfits running day
trips to Cape Tribulation, some via Mossman
Gorge. Many of the tours out of Cairns also
do pick-ups from Port Douglas.
BTS Tours GUIDED TOUR
(% 07-4099 5665; www.btstours.com.au; 49 Mac-
rossan St; Daintree adult/child $150/115, Mossman
Gorge $48/26) Tours to the Daintree Rainfor-
est and Cape Trib, including canoeing. Also
to Mossman Gorge.
 4 47

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Port Douglas
rrt sD o u g l as to C o o kto wn

æ Sights 13 Coles Supermarket.................................B2

1 Flagstaff Hill............................................. D2
2 St Mary's by the Sea............................... B2
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
3 BTS Tours ................................................ C3
4 Port Douglas Boat Hire .......................... A3
5 Port Douglas Yacht Club........................ A4
6 Tech Dive Academy................................ B2
ÿ Sleeping
7 Accommodation Port Douglas ............. C3
8 By the Sea Port Douglas........................ D3
9 Global Backpackers................................ C2
10 Hibiscus Gardens.................................... C3
11 ParrotFish Lodge .................................... C3
ú Eating
12 2 Fish ........................................................ B2
14 Harrisons Restaurant .............................B2
15 Nautilus.....................................................C2
16 On the Inlet...............................................A3
17 Original Mocka's Pies..............................B2
18 Salsa Bar & Grill.......................................B2
19 Seafood House ........................................B2
û Drinking & Nightlife
20 Court House Hotel...................................B2
21 Iron Bar .....................................................B2
22 Origin Espresso .......................................B3
Port Douglas Yacht Club ................ (see 5)
23 Tin Shed ...................................................A2
þ Shopping
24 Port Douglas Markets............................. B1
448
Calypso SNORKELLING
(% 07-4099 6999; www.calypsoreefcruises.com;
adult/child $195/154) Large catamaran visiting
three outer reefs.
Fishing Norseman FISHING
(% 07-4099 6668; www.mvnorseman.com.au;
Closehaven Marina; day tours adult/child $215/195)
Catch coral trout, red emperor and other
fish aboard the modern 18m-long Norse-
man. Private charters also available.
Haba SNORKELLING
(% 07-4098 5000; www.habadive.com.au; Marina
Mirage; adult/child $175/99) Long-standing lo-
cal dive company; 25-minute glass-bottom-
boat tours ($16/8 per adult/child) available.
Lady Douglas River Cruise CRUISE
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef P
(% 07-4099 1603; www.ladydouglas.com.au; Ma-
rina Mirage; adult/child $30/15) Spot crocs and
other wildlife at nearby Dickson Inlet.
Poseidon SNORKELLING
(% 07-4099 4772; www.poseidon-cruises.com.au;
adult/child $210/145) Friendly family-owned
and -operated luxury catamaran with trips
to Agincourt Reef.
Quicksilver CRUISE
(% 07-4087 2100; www.quicksilver-cruises.com;
adult/child $212/106) Major operator with
fast cruises to Agincourt Reef. Offers helmet
dives ($142), plus scenic helicopter flights
from the pontoon on the reef ($148, mini-
mum two passengers).
Reef & Rainforest Connections ECOTOUR
S loeretpDi ng
(% 07-4035 5566; www.reefandrainforest.com.au;
adult/child from $163/105) S A range of day
ecotours, including Cape Trib and Bloom-
field Falls, Kuranda and Mossman Gorge.
o u g l as to C o o kto wn
Sail Tallarook SAILING
(% 07-4099 4070; www.sailtallarook.com.au; adult/
child half-day sail $99/75) Historic 90ft yacht
sailing to the Low Isles. Sunset cruises in-
clude cheese platters; BYO drinks.
Sailaway SAILING, SNORKELLING
(% 07-4099 4772; www.sailawayportdouglas.com;
adult/child $205/125) Popular sailing and
snorkelling trip to the Low Isles that’s great
for families. Also offers 90-minute twilight
sails ($50) off the Port Douglas coast.
Synergy SAILING, SNORKELLING
(% 07-4084 2800; www.synergyreef.com.au; adult/
child $275/205) With a maximum of just 12
passengers, the Synergy sails to the outer
reefs.
Tropical Fishing & Eco Tours FISHING, TOUR
(% 07-4099 4272; www.fishingecotours.com; fish-
ing trips from $90; inlet tours from $30) Half-day
fishing trips and wildlife-spotting tours.
Wavelength SNORKELLING
(% 07-4099 5031; www.wavelength.com.au; adult/
child $225/165) Outer reef snorkelling (only)
at three sites with a marine biologist. Maxi-
mum 30 passengers.
4 Sleeping
Port Douglas is swimming in accommoda-
tion, most of it in self-contained apartments,
or upmarket resorts just out of town. Ac-
commodation Port Douglas (% 07-4098
5522; www.accomportdouglas.com.au) is a useful
agent for holiday rentals.
Dougies HOSTEL $
(% 07-4099 6200, 1800 996 200; www.dougies.
com.au; 111 Davidson St; per person tent sites $13,
dm $26, d shared bathroom $34; a i W s ) At
this laid-way-back hostel, it’s easy to hang
about the sprawling grounds in a hammock
by day and move to the bar at night. There’s
an inhouse restaurant, Zai, for the hungry
ones. If you do decide to leave the premises
for a bit, rent bikes and/or fishing gear from
the reception area, which also stocks grocer-
ies. Free pick-up from Cairns.
Global Backpackers HOSTEL $
(% 07-4099 5641, 1800 682 647; www.globalport-
douglas.com.au; 38 Macrossan St; dm $27-32,
d $80; aiW ) Port’s most central hostel
doesn’t have a pool, but it’s bang in the mid-
dle of Macrossan St above the Rattle n Hum
restaurant-bar. Modern rooms are decked
out in sleek dark-brown tones, doubles all
have bathroom, and the kitchen and com-
mon room open onto a big balcony.
ParrotFish Lodge HOSTEL $
(% 1800 995 011, 07-4099 5011; www.parrot-
fishlodge.com; 37-39 Warner St; dm $25-33, d with/
without bathroom $80/70; a i s ) Energetic
backpackers place with extreme beach decor
and lots of freebies, including breakfast and
pick-ups from Cairns.
Pandanus Caravan Park CAMPGROUND $
(% 07-4099 4034; www.pandanuscp.com.au; 97-
107 Davidson St; unpowered/powered sites $35/42,
cabins $80-90, units $105; a i W s ) Five min-
utes’ stroll from the beach, this large, shady
park has a good range of cabins and free gas
barbecues.

Port o’ Call Lodge HOSTEL $
(% 07-4099 5422; www.portocall.com.au; cnr Port
St & Craven Cl; dm $38, d $110-129; aiWs )
S Low-key solar- and wind-powered, YHA-
associated hostel with a good-value bistro
(mains $17 to $26).
Pink Flamingo BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
(% 07-4099 6622; www.pinkflamingo.com.au; 115
Davidson St; r $125 & 185; aiWs ) Flamboy-
ant fuchsia-, purple- and orange-painted
rooms opening to private walled courtyards
(with hammocks, outdoor baths and out-
door showers) and a groovy mirror-balled
alfresco bar make the Pink Flamingo a fun
place. Outdoor movie nights, a gym and
bike rental are also offered. Gay-owned, gay-
friendly and all-welcoming (except for kids).
By the Sea Port Douglas APARTMENT $$
(% 07-4099 5387; www.bytheseaportdouglas.com.
au; 72 Macrossan St; d from $185; aiWs )
Close to the beach and town centre, the 12
self-contained rooms here are spread over
three levels – the upper rooms have ‘filtered’
views through the palm trees to the beach.
Rooms are self-contained and renovated in
neutral hues. Cheap online rates.
oQT Resort RESORT $$$
(% 07-4099 8900; www.qtportdouglas.com.au; 87-
109 Port Douglas Rd; d $240-260, villa $290-410;
a i W s ) Port’s newest resort is also its
hippest with its cool mod decor and DJ-
spinning lounge beats in the cocktail bar.
The inhouse restaurant, Bazaar, serves up a
quality buffet spread and staff are all smiles
as they lead you to your stylish rooms com-
plete with flat-screen TVs and plush beds.
QT also hosts Moonlight Cinema. Competi-
tive online packages.
Sea Temple Resort & Spa RESORT $$$
(% 07-4084 3500, 1800 833 762; www.mirvac­
hotels.com.au; Mitre St; d from $300; aiWs )
Port Douglas’ most luxurious five-star and
its championship links golf course are set in
lush tropical gardens near the southern end
of Four Mile Beach. Rooms range from slick
spa studios to the opulent ‘swim out’ pent-
house with direct access to the enormous
lagoon pool. Rooms start at $199 online.
Hibiscus Gardens RESORT $$$
(% 1800 995 995; www.hibiscusportdouglas.com.
au; 22 Owen St; d $145-385; ai s ) Balinese in-
fluences of teak furnishings and fixtures, bi-
fold doors and plantation shutters – as well
as the occasional Buddha – give this stylish
4 49
resort an exotic ambience. The in-house day
spa, specialising in indigenous healing tech-
niques and products, is a great place to be
pampered.
5 Eating
Original Mocka’s Pies TAKEAWAY $
(% 07-4099 5295; 9 Grant St; pies $4.50-6; h 8am-
4pm) An institution serving amazing Aus-
sie pies filled with exotic ingredients such
as crocodile and kangaroo. The steak pie is
oozing with chunks of tender, slow-cooked
Black Angus.
Four Mile ¨
Seafood & Takeaway SEAFOOD, BURGERS $
(Four Mile Beach Plaza, Barrier St, Four Mile Beach;
dishes $8-15; h 9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun)
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef P
Whips up fish and chips and tasty burgers.
Salsa Bar & Grill MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-4099 4922; www.salsaportdouglas.com.au;
26 Wharf St; mains $20-37; h 11.30am-3pm & 5.30-
10.30pm; v ) In a white Queenslander, Salsa
is a stayer on Port’s often fickle scene. Try
the Cajun jambalaya (rice with prawns, yab-
bies, squid, crocodile sausage and smoked
chicken) or the kangaroo loin with sweet
potato pie.
On the Inlet SEAFOOD $$
(% 07-4099 5255; www.portdouglasseafood.com;
3 Inlet St; mains $24-40; h 11.30am-10pm) At
this restaurant jutting out over Dickson
Inlet, tables are spread out along an atmos-
pheric deck where you can await the daily
5pm arrival of George the 250kg grouper, Eat
who comes to feed. Take up the bucket-
o ritng
of-prawns-and-a-drink deal for $18 from
3.30pm to 5.30pm, or choose your own cray-
D o u g l as to C o o kto wn
fish and mud crabs from the live tank.
Beach Shack MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
(% 07-4099 1100; www.the-beach-shack.com.au;
29 Barrier St, Four Mile Beach; mains $23-34;
h 11.30am-3pm & 5.30-10pm; v ) There’d be
an outcry if this locals’ favourite took its
macadamia-crumbed eggplant (with grilled
and roasted veggies, goat’s cheese and wild
rocket) off the menu. The unique setting,
a lantern-lit garden with sand underfoot,
lures diners to the southern end of Four Mile
Beach. Good reef fish, pizzas and blackboard
specials, too.
oHarrisons
Restaurant MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$$
(% 07-4099 4011; www.harrisonsrestaurant.com.au;
22 Wharf St; mains $38-56, 4-/6-course $75/100)
4 50
Marco-Pierre-White–trained chef and owner
Spencer Patrick whips up culinary gems
that stand toe-to-toe with Australia’s best.
Fresh locally sourced produce is turned into
dishes such as rabbit croquettes with goats
curd fondant and Angus rib-eye steak frites
served with melt-in-your-mouth bone mar-
row. The degustation menu is a bargain.
Possibly the only place in Port where diners
bother swapping their thongs for shoes.
Nautilus MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$$
(% 07-4099 5330; www.nautilus-restaurant.com.au;
17 Murphy St; mains $33-50; h dinner) Once you
make it up a steep hill, you’ll find intimate
white-clothed tables amid tall palms at this
decades-old fine-dining institution. The
menu spans seafood and steaks including
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef P
dishes such as mud crab cooked in yellow
coconut and kaffir lime. The pièce de résist-
ance is the seven-course chef’s tasting menu
($115; $170 with paired wines). Children un-
der eight aren’t accepted.
2 Fish SEAFOOD $$$
(% 07-4099 6350; www.2fishrestaurant.com.au;
7/20 Wharf St; mains $29-40; h 11.30am-3pm &
5.30-10pm) 2 Fish offers a seafood extrava-
ganza: more than 15 types of fish, from coral
trout to red emperor and wild barramundi,
are prepared in a variety of innovative ways,
or go for the decadent seafood platter for
two ($160).
Self-Catering
Stock up on supplies at the large Coles
Supermarket (11 Macrossan St) in the Port
Do
Village shopping centre. For locally caught
r irnk
seafood, including prawns, mud crabs and a
t Di ng
big range of fish, head to Seafood House (11
oug
Warner St; seafood platters from $45; h 9.30am-
5pm).
&lNas
6 Drinking & Nightlife
igh
to
Drinking and dining go hand in hand in
t lCi foeo kto wn
Port Douglas. Even before the cutlery is
packed away, many restaurants become in-
viting places for a drink.
Tin Shed LICENSED CLUB
(www.thetinshed-portdouglas.com.au; 7 Ashford
Ave; drinks from $4; h 10am-10pm) Port Douglas’
Combined Services Club is a locals’ secret.
This is a rare find: bargain dining on the wa-
terfront, and even the drinks are cheap. Sign
in, line up and grab a table on the river- or
shore-fronting deck.
Origin Espresso COFFEE SHOP
(% 07-4099 4586; cnr Grant & Warner Sts; coffee
$3.50-4; h 8am-4pm daily) Origin, with its silk-
smooth lattes and complex espressos, is the
only place worth getting coffee in Port.
Iron Bar PUB
(% 07-4099 4776; www.ironbarportdouglas.com.au;
5 Macrossan St; mains $15-30; h 11am-3am) A bit
of wacky outback-shearing-shed decor never
goes astray in Queensland. It’s well done –
all rustic iron and distressed timber. After
polishing off your aged steaks, grab a beer
and head upstairs for a flutter on the cane-
toad races ($5).
Court House Hotel PUB
(% 07-4099 5181; www.courthouseportdouglas.
com.au; cnr Macrossan & Wharf Sts; h 11am-late)
Commanding a prime corner location, the
‘Courty’ is a lively local, with cover bands on
weekends.
Port Douglas Yacht Club LICENSED CLUB
(www.portdouglasyachtclub.com.au; 1 Spinnaker Cl;
h bar 4-10pm Mon-Fri, noon-10pm Sat & Sun) An-
other local favourite, with a spirited nautical
atmosphere. Inexpensive meals are served
nightly.
3 Entertainment
Moonlight Cinema CINEMA
(www.moonlight.com.au; 87-109 Port Douglas Rd,
QT Resort, Port Douglas; tickets adult/child $16/12;
h Jun-Oct) Bring a picnic or hire a bean bag
for twilight outdoor movie screenings.
88 Information
The Port Douglas Tourist Information Centre
(% 07-4099 4540; www.tourismportdouglas.
com.au; 50 Macrossan St; h 8am-6.30pm) has
maps and makes tour bookings.
88 Getting There & Away
Sun Palm (% 07-4087 2900; www.sunpalm-
transport.com) has frequent daily services
between Port Douglas and Cairns ($35, 1½
hours) via the northern beaches and the airport,
and up the coast to Mossman ($10, 20 minutes),
Daintree Village and the ferry ($20, one hour),
and Cape Tribulation ($48, three hours).
Airport Connections (% 07-4099 5950; www.
tnqshuttle.com; adult/child $36/18; h btwn
3am & 5pm) runs a shuttle-bus service ($36,
four daily) between Port Douglas, Cairns’ north-
ern beaches and Cairns Airport, continuing on to
Cairns CBD.
Country Road Coachlines (% 07-4069 5446;
www.countryroadcoachlines.com.au) has a bus

service between Port Douglas and Cooktown
on the coastal route via Cape Tribulation three
times a week ($70), weather permitting.
88 Getting Around
BICYCLE
Port Douglas Bike Hire (% 07-4099 5799;
www.portdouglasbikehire.com.au; cnr Wharf
& Warner Sts; per day $19) has a huge range of
bikes for hire and offers advice on cycling routes.
BUS
Sun Palm runs in a continuous loop every
half-hour (from 7am to midnight) from Wildlife
Habitat Port Douglas to the Marina Mirage, stop-
ping regularly en route. Flag down the driver at
marked bus stops.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Port Douglas has plenty of small, local car-hire
companies as well as major international chains,
such as Budget (% 07-4099 5702; www.budget.
com.au; 2/11 Warner St) and Thrifty (% 07-
4099 5555; www.thrifty.com.au; 50 Macrossan
St). It’s just about the last place before Cook-
town where you can hire a 4WD. Expect to pay
around $65 a day for a small car and $130 a day
for a 4WD, plus insurance.
TAXI
Port Douglas Taxis (% 13 10 08) offers 24-hour
service.
Mossman
POP 1733
Mossman is an unassuming town criss-
crossed with cane-train tracks and fea-
turing the wonderful Mossman Gorge
(% 07-4099 7000; www.mossmangorge.com.au;
Mossman Gorge Centre; shuttle bus adult/child
$5/2.50; h 8am-6.30pm), which draws in tour-
ists by the van-load. There’s a great 2.4km
walk there, and swimming is possible, but
be aware of the danger of swimming after
heavy rain.
To truly appreciate the gorge’s cultural
significance, book one of the 1½-hour
Indigenous-guided Kuku-Yalanji Dream-
time Walks (www.yalanji.com.au; adult/child
$50/25; h 9am, 11am, & 3pm ) through the
Mossman Gorge Centre. This is the slick
new gateway to the gorge, complete with an
art gallery, retail section and an inhouse res-
taurant that serves bush tucker.
The Indigenous-run Janbal Gallery
(% 07-4098 3917; www.janbalgallery.com.au; 5
Johnston Rd; h 10am-5pm Tue-Sat) is a great
place to browse or buy impressive artwork.
451
The rooms at Mossman Gorge B&B
(% 07-4098 2497; www.bnbnq.com.au/mossgorge;
Lot 15, Gorge View Cres; r $130-150) have dark
timber floors, feature walls and antiques.
The guest spaces are cosy, and the views
and bird life are mesmerising. Breakfast is
included. Up the road, the Papillon (% 07-
4098 2760; www.papillonstays.com.au; 36 Coral Sea
Dr, Mossman; r from $130; a s ) is Mossman’s
best accommodation. It’s a fabulous B&B
complete with a pool, split-level living and
modern, comfortable rooms.
Run by a talented French-Australian
team, Mojo’s (% 07-4098 1202; www.mojos-
barandgrill.com.au; 41 Front St; mains $20-29;
h 11.30am-2pm Mon-Fri, 6pm-late Mon-Sat; v )
serves exquisite fusion fare such as gnoc-
chi with blue cheese and caramelised pear,
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef M
king crab and sweet corn risotto, pork belly
spring rolls, and steaks and chops.
BTS (% 07-4099 5665; www.portdouglasbus.
com; 49 Macrossan St, Port Douglas) has return
shuttles from Port Douglas to Mossman
Gorge (adult/child $22/15, 8.15am and
12.15pm) and also runs day trips to the gorge.
Coral Reef Coaches (% 07-4098 2800; www.
coralreefcoaches.com.au) runs coaches from
Cairns (adult/child $40/20). Book ahead.
Daintree Village
POP 146
Surprisingly, given its tropical-rainforest
surrounds, Daintree Village is not tree-
covered; cattle farms operate in large clear-
ings next to the Daintree River. Most folk Po
G
come here to see crocodiles, and there are
eott
rssman
several small operators who will take you on
t i ng
croc-spotting boat tours. Otherwise, there’s
D o uAgrloas
little more on offer.
T Tours
u nd
Bruce Belcher’s Daintree CRUISE
to C o o kto wn
(% 07-4098 7717; www.daintreerivercruises.com;
1hr cruises adult/child $25/10) One-hour river
cruises on a covered boat.
Daintree Argo Rainforest Tours TOUR
(% 0409 627 434; www.daintreeadventuretours.
com.au; Upper Daintree Rd; 1hr tours $45) Rain-
forest and cattle-country tours aboard an
open-topped amphibious vehicle.
Daintree River Wild Watch CRUISE
(% 07-4098 7068; www.daintreeriverwildwatch.
com.au; 2hr cruises adult/child $55/35) Informa-
tive sunrise birdwatching cruises and sunset
photography nature cruises.
4 52

DAINTREE NATIONAL PARK: THEN & NOW

The greater Daintree rainforest is protected as part of Daintree National Park. The area
has a controversial history: despite conservationist blockades, in 1983 the Bloomfield
Track was bulldozed through lowland rainforest from Cape Tribulation to the Bloomfield
River, and the ensuing international publicity indirectly led the federal government to
nominate Queensland’s wet tropical rainforests for World Heritage listing. The move
drew objections from the Queensland timber industry and the state government, but in
1988 the area was inscribed on the World Heritage list, resulting in a total ban on com-
mercial logging within its boundaries.
World Heritage listing doesn’t affect land ownership rights or control, and since the
1990s efforts have been made by the Queensland government and conservation agen-
cies to buy back and rehabilitate freehold properties, add them to the Daintree National
Park and install visitor-interpretation facilities. Sealing the road to Cape Tribulation in
2002 opened the area to rapid settlement, triggering the buy-back of hundreds more
properties. Coupled with development controls, these efforts are now bearing fruit in the
form of forest regeneration. Check out Rainforest Rescue (www.rainforestrescue.org.au)
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef A

for more information.

Biodiversity
Far North Queensland’s wet tropics area has amazing pockets of biodiversity. The Wet
Tropics World Heritage Area stretches from Townsville to Cooktown and covers 894,420
hectares of coastal zones and hinterland, diverse swamp and mangrove-forest habitats,
eucalypt woodlands and tropical rainforest. It covers only 0.01% of Australia’s surface
area, but has 36% of all the mammal species, 50% of the bird species, around 60% of
the butterfly species and 65% of the fern species.

4 Sleeping & Eating cable ferry (or 4WD from Cooktown) and,
Daintree Riverview CAMPGROUND $
adding to its mystery, it’s where rainforest
(% 0409 627 434; www.daintreeriverview.com;
retreat-style accommodation regularly gets
Stewart St; unpowered/powered sites $10/30,
taken over by the surrounding greenery, and
cabins $99-110) Riverside camping and good-
the sun is rarely seen through thick foliage.
value cabins. About 11km before Daintree Village and
24km north of Mossman is the turn-off to
Red Mill House B&B $$$ the Daintree River cable ferry (car/motorcy-
P lo
S reo

(% 07-4098 6233; www.redmillhouse.com.au; 11 cle/bicycle & pedestrian one way $13/6/1; h 6am-
ret

Stewart St; s/d $160/220; ais ) The large ve- midnight), which runs every 15 minutes or so
upnd
Di ng

randah overlooking the rainforest garden is and takes two minutes to cross the river into
ou

a prime spot to observe the resident bird life. the Cape Tribulation area. It’s then another
Cg
ap
& lEat

There are four well-appointed rooms, a large 34km by sealed road to Cape Tribulation.
as
e Tr

communal lounge and library, and a two- Part of the Wet Tropics World Heritage
bedroom family unit (from $270). Guided Area, the region from Daintree River north
to
i ng
i bC

birding walks are available on request. to Cape Tribulation is famed for its ancient
uo

rainforest and the rugged mountains of

l at

Croc Eye Cafe CAFE $$

o kto

Thornton Peak (1375m) and Mt Sorrow

(% 07-4098 6229; www.croceyecafe.com; 3 Stewart
i o nwn

St; mains $17-40; h 8am-3pm) Serves fish and
chips, burgers and, of course, crocodile dish-
es such as spaghetti and san choi bao.
A round Cape Tribulation
Rainforest, beaches, cassowaries, bats and
some fairly hard-core driving are features
of this intriguing area where tropical rain-
forest meets the sea. It’s only accessible via
(770m).
Electricity is powered by generators and
solar energy in this area and few places have
air-con. Cape Trib is a popular day trip from
Port Douglas and Cairns though tourism has
slowed in recent years. Still, it’s worth book-
ing ahead during peak season.
You can get fuel and some supplies at
Rainforest Village (% 07-4098 9015; www.
rainforestvillage.com.au; Cape Tribulation Rd;
h 7am-7pm), 16km from the ferry.

Cape Kimberley to Noah Beach charts
a route from the Daintree River to Cape
Tribulation.
Cape Kimberley
About 3km beyond the Daintree River cross-
ing, a 5km unsealed road leads to Cape Kim-
berley Beach, a beautiful quiet beach with
Snapper Island just offshore. The island is na-
tional park, with a fringing reef. Access is by
private boat; Crocodylus Village (www.croco-
dyluscapetrib.com) runs two-day sea-kayaking
tours here ($299; Monday, Wednesday and
Friday). You’ll need to obtain a permit for the
camp site (% 13 74 68; www.nprsr.qld.gov.au; per-
mits $5.45) on the southwest side of Snapper
Island, where there’s a toilet and picnic tables.
Take a fuel stove, as fires are not permitted.
Cow Bay
There’s a footpath from the main road to
beautiful Cow Bay, where you’ll find rainfor-
est logs wedged into the coral-filled sand. It’s
a popular fishing spot, too.
Before the turn-off to the Jindalba Board-
walk is the Walu Wugirriga (Alexandra
Range) lookout, which offers marvellous
views over the Alexandra Range and Snap-
per Island.
The aerial walkway at the Daintree
Discovery Centre (% 07-4098 9171; www.
daintree-rec.com.au; Tulip Oak Rd; adult/child with
7-day re-entry $32/16; h 8.30am-5pm) takes
you high into the forest canopy. There are
a few short interpretive walks and a small
theatre running films on cassowaries, croco-
diles, conservation and climate change. The
(included) audio guide offers an excellent
Indigenous tour.
Just past the centre, the Jindalba Board-
walk snakes a 700m and 2.7km circuit
through the rainforest.
Cow Bay Horse Rides (% 07-4098 9202;
www.cowbayhorserides.com.au; 1507 Cape Tribula-
tion Rd; 1/2hr rides $65/120) runs very person-
alised rides – from one to four people – on
its forested property.
Of course, Cow Bay’s real highlight lies
at the end of the road, where the beauti-
ful white-sand Cow Bay Beach rivals any
coastal paradise.
The laid-back Epiphyte B&B (% 07-4098
9039; www.rainforestbb.com; 22 Silkwood Rd; s/d/
cabins incl breakfast $70/85/140) is set on a lush
6-hectare property with individually styled
rooms of varying sizes but all with their own
453
verandah. Even better is the spacious, super-
private cabin with a patio, kitchenette and
sunken bathroom.
Along the sealed Buchanan Creek Rd (of-
ten called Cow Bay Rd), ultra-basic green
canvas safari-style huts merge with the
surrounding foliage at the YHA-associated
Crocodylus Village (% 07-4098 9166; www.
crocodyluscapetrib.com; Buchanan Creek Rd; dm
$25 d $70-85; iWs ). If you prefer solid
walls, go for the four- to six-bed dorms or
private rooms. Its bar and restaurant (mains
$15, open 8am to 10am and 6pm to 9pm)
are both open to the public, as are activities
including half-day kayaking trips ($79) and
adventurous two-day sea-kayaking tours to
Snapper Island.
At Daintree Rainforest Bungalows
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef A
(% 07-4098 9229; www.daintreerainforestbunga-
lows.com; Lot 40, Spurwood Rd; d $110), the free-
standing wooden cabins are simple but styl-
ish, with violet- and lilac-toned fabrics, cov-
ered decks overlooking the rainforest and a
kitchenette area complete with a camping
stove. Two nights’ minimum stay.
Set back from the main road amid rain-
forest, the Daintree Rainforest Retreat
Motel (% 07-4098 9101; www.daintreeretreat.
com.au; 1473 Cape Tribulation Rd; r $145-240,
cabin $470; s ) is done out in striking tropi-
cal colour schemes and glossy woodwork.
Some rooms have kitchenettes and the four-
bedroom pole cabin has a beach-facing spa.
If you’re craving a counter meal and glass
of beer, the Cow Bay Hotel (% 07-4098 9011;
Cape Tribulation Rd; mains $12-25; h 11am-3pm
P lo
S
& 6-9.30pm), adjacent to the turn-off to the
reo
ret
beach, is the only real pub in the whole
upnd
Daintree region. Takeaway alcohol is avail-
Di ng
ou
able, and there’s an adjacent block of basic
Cg
motel-style rooms (single/double $77/99).
ap
& lEat
as
e Tr
Cow Bay to Cooper Creek
to
i ng
i bC
This section of road is an easy, winding
uo
l at
drive with several worthwhile stops en route
o kto
to Cooper Creek. The Daintree Ice Cream
i o nwn
Company (% 07-4098 9114; Lot 100, Cape Tribu-
lation Rd; ice creams $6; h 11am-5pm) serves up
four scoops of exotic flavours that change
daily. You might choose from wattleseed,
black sapote, macadamia, mango, coconut
or jackfruit – they’re all delicious. Work it
off on a 20-minute self-guided orchard walk.
The family-friendly Lync-Haven Rainfor-
est Retreat (% 07-4098 9155; www.lynchaven.
com.au; Lot 44, Cape Tribulation Rd; unpowered/
powered sites $14/32, d $99-160; a ) is set on a
454

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A B : C : : : D

Cape Tribulation Area
æ Sights
1 Daintree Rainforest .............................B3
2 Dubuji Boardwalk ................................C2
3 Marrdja Botanical walk .......................B3
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
4 Bat House.............................................C2
5 Cape Trib Exotic Fruit Farm................C2
6 Cape Tribulation Wilderness
Cruises...............................................C4
7 Cooper Creek Wilderness...................B4
8 Cow Bay Horse Rides..........................B5
9 Daintree Discovery Centre .................B6
Mason's Tours ........................... (see 25)
10 Mt Sorrow Ridge Walk......................... C1
11 Prema Shanti .......................................A4
ÿ Sleeping
12 Cape Trib Beach House ...................... C1
Cape Trib Exotic Fruit Farm
Cabins.........................................(see 5)
13 Cape Tribulation Camping..................C2
14 Crocodylus Village...............................C6
15 Daintree Rainforest
Bungalows.........................................C6
16 Daintree Rainforest Retreat
Motel..................................................B6
17 DERM Campground ............................C3
18 Epiphyte B&B.......................................B6
19 Lync-Haven Rainforest
Retreat...............................................B5
20 PK's Jungle Village ..............................C2
21 Thornton Beach Bungalows ...............C4
ú Eating
22 Cafe on Sea ..........................................C4
23 Cow Bay Hotel .....................................B6
24 Daintree Ice Cream Company............B5
IGA Supermarket....................... (see 20)
Jungle Bar .................................. (see 20)
25 Mason's Store & Cafe..........................C2
26 Whet Restaurant & Cinema................C2
þ Shopping
27 Rainforest Village ................................B4
16-hectare property on the main road about
5km north of Cow Bay, with walking trails,
hand-reared kangaroos and resident croc
Boris. Its restaurant (mains $14 to $28, open
8am to 10pm) serves robust steaks, burg-
ers, pasta and fish, and there are outdoor
evening movie screenings.
Cooper Creek
A smattering of sights nestles in the bend of
Cooper Creek at the base of dramatic Thorn-
ton Peak.
455
Just south of the creek itself, Rainforest
Village (% 07-4098 9015; www.rainforestvillage.
com.au; h 7am-7pm) sells groceries, ice and
fuel, and has a small campground (unpow-
ered/powered sites $24/32).
Book ahead for a walk with Cooper
Creek Wilderness (% 07-4098 9126; www.
ccwild.com; Cape Tribulation Rd; guided walks $55-
240). After a walk through the Daintree
rainforest, you’ll take a dip in Cooper Creek.
Night walks and full-day tours are also avail-
able.
Cape Tribulation Wilderness Cruises
(% 0457 731 000; www.capetribcruises.com; Cape
Tribulation Rd; adult/child $30/20) has day and
night mangrove cruises down Cooper Creek
in search of crocs.
Prema Shanti (% 07-4098 9006; www.pre-
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef A
mashanti.com; Turpentine Rd; classes per hr $18)
is a peaceful yoga retreat with drop-in yoga
and meditation classes (by reservation) and
massage treatments available.
Thornton Beach
A sliver of vegetation separates Cape Tribu-
lation Rd from magnificent crescent-shaped
Thornton Beach. There’s a small, rocky off-
shore island, and opportunities for snor-
kelling. Best of all is the licensed Cafe on
Sea (% 07-4098 9118; Cape Tribulation Rd; mains
$12-25; h 9am-4pm), only a towel-length back
from the beach.
Directly across the road, Thornton
Beach Bungalows (% 07-4098 9179; www.
thorntonbeach.com; Cape Tribulation Rd; cabins/
P lo
S
houses $85/250) has two petite cabins, plus
reo
a beach house sleeping four (two-night
ret
upnd
minimum).
Di ng
ou
Cg
Noah Beach & Around
ap
& lEat
as
e Tr
Marrdja Botanical Walk is a beautiful
1.2km (45-minute) interpretive boardwalk
to
i ng
i bC
that follows the creek through a section of
uo
rainforest packed with fan palms and past
l at
o kto
mangroves to a lookout over Noah Creek.
i o nwn
Wear insect repellent to beat the midges.
Noah Valley Mountain Treks (% 07-4098
9292; noahvalleymountaintreks@activ8.net.au; half-
day/night treks $60/40) guide enviro-oriented,
challenging treks through the Noah Valley.
The Noah Beach Campground (% 13
74 68; www.nprsr.qld.gov.au; Cape Tribulation Rd;
per person $5.45) has 15 sites set 100m back
from the beach beneath red-trunked trees.
There are toilets but no showers. Watch out
for crocs.
4 56
Cape Tribulation
The Indigenous Kuku-yalanji people called
the area Kulki, but the name Cape Tribula-
tion was given by Captain Cook after his ship
ran aground on Endeavour Reef. This little
piece of paradise retains a frontier quality,
with low-key development, road signs alert-
ing drivers to cassowary crossings, and croc-
odile warnings that make beach strolls that
little bit less relaxing.
The rainforest tumbles down to two mag-
nificent, white-sand beaches – Myall and
Cape Trib – separated by a knobby cape. The
village of Cape Tribulation marks the end of
the road, literally, and the beginning of the
4WD-only coastal route along the Bloom-
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C
field Track towards Cooktown and beyond.
Serious, fit walkers should lace up early
for the Mt Sorrow Ridge Walk (7km, five to
six hours return, start no later than 10am);
it’s strenuous but worth it. The start of the
marked trail is about 150m north of the
Kulki picnic area car park, on your left. For
the less hardcore, head to Myall Beach
where you can do the 1.2km Dubuji Board-
walk through a mangrove swamp.
1 Sights & Activities
Jungle Surfing ZIPLINE, HIKING
(% 07-4098 0043; www.junglesurfing.com.au; zip­
line $90, night walks $40; h night walks 7.30pm)
Jungle Surfing is an exhilarating zipline
(flying fox) through the rainforest canopy,
stopping at five tree platforms. It also runs
guided forest night walks. Rates include
P io
S
ap
grhetts
pick-ups throughout Cape Trib.
Bat House to timber cabins. There’s a tidy communal
TDro&iubAct
WILDLIFE WATCHING
(% 07-4098 0063; www.austrop.org.au; Cape Tribu-
g
ul as
lation Rd; admission $4; h 10.30am-3.30pm Tue-
Sun) Volunteers from Austrop, a local con-
at
i viito
servation organisation, run the Bat House, a
otn
nursery for the flying fox.
i eCso o kto wn
Ocean Safari SNORKELLING
(% 07-4098 0006; www.oceansafari.com.au; adult/
child $119/76; h 9am & 1pm) Ocean Safari leads
small groups (25 people maximum) on snor-
kelling cruises to the Great Barrier Reef, just
half an hour offshore. Free pick-up from
your Cape Trib accommodation.
Cape Trib Horse Rides HORSE RIDING
(% 07-4098 0030; www.capetribhorserides.com.
au; per person $89; h 8am & 2.30pm) Leisurely
rides along the beach. Free pick-up from
your accommodation.
T Tours
Paddle Trek Kayak Tours KAYAKING
(% 07-4098 0043; www.capetribpaddletrek.com.
au; kayak hire per hour $16-55, trips from $69)
Guided kayaking trips and kayak hire. Free
pick-up from your accommodation.
D’Arcy of the Daintree DRIVING TOUR
(% 07-4098 9180; www.darcyofdaintree.com.au;
tours adult/child from $119/80) Entertaining
4WD trips up the Bloomfield Track to Wujal
Wujal Waterfalls and as far as Cooktown and
down Cape Tribulation Rd. Free pick-ups
from Cape Trib and Cow Bay.
Mason’s Tours WALKING, TOUR
(% 07-4098 0070; www.masonstours.com.au; Ma-
son’s Store, Cape Tribulation Rd; tours $300-1250)
Lawrence Mason conducts interpretive
walks lasting two hours to a full day. Also
runs 4WD tours up the Bloomfield Track to
Cooktown. Advance booking necessary.
Cape Trib Exotic Fruit Farm TOUR
(% 07-4098 0057; www.capetrib.com.au; Lot 5,
Nicole Dr; tour $25; h 2pm) Bookings are essen-
tial for 90-minute tours and tastings at the
magnificent tropical orchards of Cape Trib
Exotic Fruit Farm.
4 Sleeping & Eating
Restaurants at Cape Trib’s accommodation
are all open to nonguests.
Cape Trib Beach House HOSTEL $
(% 07-4098 0030; www.capetribbeach.com.au;
dm $26-32, d $75, cabins $130-180; a i W s )
The rainforest huts at this low-key beach-
front property are home to dorms through
kitchen as well as an open-deck licensed
restaurant (mains $7-34, open 8am-10.30pm)
with cheap drinks. Bike hire (per day $20)
is available.
PK’s Jungle Village HOSTEL $
(% 07-4098 0040; www.pksjunglevillage.com; Cape
Tribulation Rd; unpowered sites per person $15, dm
$25-28, d $95 & $125; a i W s ) From this
longstanding backpacker hub you can reach
Myall Beach by boardwalk. Its Jungle Bar
(mains $15-25; h restaurant lunch & dinner, bar
noon-midnight) is the entertainment epicentre
of Cape Trib.
Cape Tribulation Camping CAMPGROUND $
(% 07-4098 0077; www.capetribcamping.com.au;
Cape Tribulation Rd; unpowered & powered sites
for 2 $40, safari huts s/d $45/70; i ) Sociable

beachfront spot with a nightly communal
fire and friendly managers and kayak hire
(per day $60 to $70). The Sand Bar (open
11am to 8.30pm) serves drinks and delish
wood-fired pizzas (pizzas $14 to $24).
oCape Trib Exotic
Fruit Farm Cabins CABIN $$
(% 07-4098 0057; www.capetrib.com.au; Lot 5,
Nicole Dr; d $185) Amid the orchards of Cape
Trib Exotic Fruit Farm, this pair of timber
pole cabins have exposed timber floors,
ceilings and huge decks, and are equipped
with electric Eskies. Rates include breakfast
hampers filled with tropical fruit from the
farm. Minimum stay is two nights. Book in
advance!
Rainforest Hideaway B&B $$
(% 07-4098 0108; www.rainforesthideaway.com; 19
Camelot Cl; d $130-140) S You know you’re at
Queenland’s quirkiest digs when you turn
into the property and find two massive
Easter Island heads staring back at you. This
colourful B&B has been single-handedly
built by its owner, artist and sculptor ‘Dutch
Rob’ – even the furniture and beds are hand-
made. Room 1092 has an open shower/toilet
facing the rainforest! A beautiful sculpture
trail winds through the property; rates in-
clude breakfast.
Mason’s Store & Cafe CAFE, SELF-CATERING $
(Cape Tribulation Rd; mains $15; h 10am-4pm
Sun-Thu, 10am-7pm Fri & Sat) Laid-back cafe
dishing up crocodile, emu and roo burgers
with buffalo and camel to be added to the
menu! The store sells limited groceries, sou-
venirs and takeaway alcohol. Bring a towel
as there’s a swimming hole behind the store
(by donation).
IGA Supermarket SUPERMARKET $
(% 07-4098 0015; PK’s Jungle Village; h 8am-6pm)
The Daintree’s largest supermarket.
Whet Restaurant & ¨
Cinema AUSTRALIAN, INDIAN $$
(% 07-4098 0007; www.whet.net.au; 1 Cape Tribula-
tion Rd; mains $21.50-33, movies $10; h 11.30am-
3pm & 5.30-9.30pm) Serves a decent range of
delectable modern Australian dishes includ-
ing wild-caught barra steamed in ginger. For
something a bit more fiery, you should visit
on Friday nights for Indian food (mains $16
to $18). Whet is also the only place around
where you can get a meal much after 8pm.
Movie screenings ($10) are at 2pm, 4pm and
8pm.
4 57
88 Getting There & Away
Country Road Coach Lines (% 07-4045 2794;
www.countryroadcoachlines.com.au) travels the
coastal route from Cairns to Cooktown via Cape
Tribulation (adult/child $49/24.50) on Monday,
Wednesday and Friday (departing from Cairns at
7am) and departs from Cape Tribulation for Cairns
at 10.10am on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday.
North to Cooktown
Aside from flying in, there are two routes to
Cooktown from the south: the coastal route
from Cape Tribulation via the 4WD-only
Bloomfield Track, and the inland route,
which is sealed all the way via the Peninsula
and Cooktown Developmental Rds.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef N
The Bloomfield Track is one of the fron-
tier roads of Australia, and it wasn’t until
1983, when it was controversially bulldozed
through the Daintree, that people could ac-
tually drive from Cooktown to Cape Tribula-
tion via the coast. There are reasons why it’s
4WD only: it’s unsealed, there are flooded
creek crossings and very steep and slippery
hills, and it’s usually impossible to use dur-
ing the Wet. Check road conditions at Ma-
son’s Store & Cafe before heading off.
Thirty kilometres north of Cape Tribulation
and a must-see along the way is Bloomfield
Falls, aka Wujal Wujal Falls (after crossing the
Bloomfield River turn left). Crocs inhabit the
river and the site is significant to the Indig-
enous Wujal Wujal community located just
north of the river. Wujal Wujal residents, the
Walker family (% 07-4040 7500; www.bamaway.
Po
G
com.au; adult/child $25/12.50; h by reservation),
e tt
r t ihng
run highly recommended half-hour walking
Do
tours of the falls and surrounding forest.
to
North from Wujal Wujal the track heads
uTgh
for 46km through the tiny settlements of
Cleoas
Ayton (Bloomfield), Rossville (a former
roekto
hippie commune with a market every sec-
to
& Away
ond Saturday morning) and Helenvale to
wn
C o o kto wn
meet the sealed Cooktown Developmental
Rd, 28km south of Cooktown.
The Lion’s Den Hotel (% 07-4060 3911;
www.lionsdenhotel.com.au; 398 Shiptons Flat
Rd, Helenvale; unpowered/powered sites $10/26,
s/d $45/65, d safari tents $80; a s ) is a well-
known watering hole that has graffiti-
covered corrugated-iron walls and a slab-
timber bar. You can pitch your own tent or
sleep in an above-ground safari-style tent.
You’ll find good pub grub (mains $12 to $23,
open noon to 2.30pm and 6pm to 7.30pm)
and fuel is available.
458
native and exotic tropical plants, including
Cooktown rare orchids. The gardens are among Aus-
POP 2339 tralia’s oldest and most magnificent. Locat-
At the southeastern edge of Cape York Penin- ed behind Nature’s Powerhouse.
sula, Cooktown is a small place with a big his-
Bicentennial Park PARK
tory: for thousands of years Waymbuurr was
Bicentennial Park is home to the much-
the place the local Guugu Yimithirr and Kuku
photographed bronze Captain Cook stat-
Yalanji people used as a meeting ground, and it
ue. Nearby, the Milbi Wall (Story Wall) is a
was here that on 17 June 1770, Lieutenant (later
12m-long mosaic depicting the local Gun-
Captain) Cook beached the Endeavour. The
garde (Guugu Yimithirr) Indigenous peo-
Endeavour had earlier struck a reef offshore
ple’s stories of creation and European con-
from Cape Tribulation, and Cook and his crew
tact, as well as scenes from WWII and recent
spent 48 days here while they repaired the
attempts at reconciliation.
damage – making it the site of Australia’s first,
albeit transient, non-Indigenous settlement. Cooktown Reef Charters FISHING, SNORKELLING
Cooktown is also a hot spot for anglers (% 07-4069 5396; www.reefcharters.com.au; from
who come here hoping to hook a giant bar- $240 per person) Game-fishing day trips with
ramundi or 10. Work is often available on
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C

the option of snorkelling.

banana plantations.
Gone Fishing FISHING, TOUR

1 Sights & Activities (% 07-4069 5980; www.fishingcooktown.com; fish-

Cooktown hibernates from November to
April, and many attractions and tours close
or have reduced hours.
James Cook Museum MUSEUM
(% 07-4069 5386; cnr Helen & Furneaux Sts; adult/
child $10/3; h 9.30am-4pm) Housed in the
imposing 1880s St Mary’s Convent, this mu-
seum explores Cooktown’s intriguing past.
From a traditional outrigger canoe to the
Endeavour’s massive anchor, there’s a host
of interesting displays.
Grassy Hill LOOKOUT
(162m) Has an unused lighthouse and spec-
tacular 360-degree views – especially worth-
P iogr
S
ing half-/full day $115/230, wildlife tour $60) River-
fishing tours plus two-hour wildlife-spotting
cruises.
T Tours
Tours operate regularly out of Cooktown
from May to October, with scaled-back
schedules from November to April.
oGuurrbi Tours INDIGENOUS CULTURE
(% 07-4069 6043; www.guurrbitours.com; tours 2/
4hr $85/120, self-drive $65/95; h Mon-Sat) Nugal-
warra family elder Willie Gordon runs rev-
elatory tours that use the physical landscape
to describe the spiritual landscape, provid-

ing a powerful insight into Aboriginal cul-

while at sunrise. There’s a snaking road to ture and lore. Cooktown pick-ups are from
ohtkto

the top, or a very steep 20-minute walk up.

ts

your accommodation; self-drivers meet near

D o&wn

Cook climbed this hill looking for a passage the Hopevale Aboriginal Community. Book
uAct

out through the reefs. Another walking trail in advance.

g l as

(800m one way, 25 minutes) leads from the

summit down to the beach at Cherry Tree Maaramaka Walkabout ¨
i v ito

Bay. Located at the northern end of town. Tours INDIGENOUS CULTURE

t i eCso o kto wn

(% 07-4060 9389; irenehammett@hotmail.com;

Nature’s Powerhouse INTERPRETIVE CENTRE
(% 07-4069 6004; www.naturespowerhouse.com.
au; off Walker St; admission by donation; h 9am-
5pm) Nature’s Powerhouse is an environ-
mental interpretive centre that is home to
two excellent galleries: the Charlie Tanner
Gallery, with pickled and preserved creepy-
crawly exhibits; and the Vera Scarth-John-
son Gallery, displaying botanical illustra-
tions of the region’s native plants.
Cooktown Botanic Gardens GARDEN
(off Walker St; h 24hr) F Cooktown’s
62-hectare Botanic Gardens is filled with
tours 1/2hr $84/42) Aboriginal cultural sto-
ries, rainforest walks, bush tucker and tea
in a gorgeous setting near Hopevale; call for
arrangements.
z Festivals & Events
Cooktown Discovery Festival HISTORICAL
(www.cooktowndiscoveryfestival.com.au; h early
Jun) Held over the Queen’s Birthday week-
end (early June) to commemorate Captain
Cook’s landing in 1770 with a costumed re-
enactment and fancy dress grand parade, as

well as indigenous workshops and a tradi-
tional corroboree.
4 Sleeping
Cooktown Holiday Park CAMPGROUND $
(% 07-4069 5417; www.cooktownholidaypark.com.
au; 31-41 Charlotte St; powered sites $44, cabins
without bathroom $100, motel units from $130,
cabins with bathroom $140-160; aiWs ) Cook-
town’s best-equipped caravan park, with
cabins, a camp kitchen and a big saltwater
pool.
Endeavour Falls Tourist Park CAMPGROUND $
(% 07-4069 5431; www.endeavourfallstouristpark.
com.au; Endeavour Valley Rd; unpowered/powered
sites $24/28, cabins $115; as ) Situated 32km
northwest on the road to Hopevale (15km
unsealed), this well-run, peaceful park backs
onto the Garden of Eden–like Endeavour
Falls (with a resident croc – don’t swim!). Its
well-stocked shop serves takeaways ($6.50
to $13.50) and has fuel.
Pam’s Place Hostel & ¨
Cooktown Motel HOSTEL, MOTEL $
(% 07-4069 5166; www.cooktownhostel.com; cnr
Charlotte & Boundary Sts; dm/s/d $27.50/55/60,
motel d $100; aiWs ) Cooktown’s YHA-
associated hostel is uninspired but rooms
are clean and functional and it’s probably
the cheapest place to stay in town. The man-
agers can help find harvest work.
oHillcrest Guest House B&B $$
(% 07-4069 6308; 130 Hope St; r with shared bath-
room $75-90, motel/self-contained r $110/135;
a s ) Housed in an 1880s Queenslander,
all the rooms at this B&B are comfortable,
charming and spotless but it’s the swim-
ming pool, the very first built in Cooktown,
that is the main draw. You can treat yourself
to a breakfast spread (real coffee!) in the
shared kitchen after a morning dip. Motel
rooms are situated beside a patch of grass
where shy wallabies come out in the eve-
nings to feed.
Milkwood Lodge CABIN $$
(% 07-4069 5007; www.milkwoodlodge.com; An-
nan Rd; d $140; as ) In a patch of rainforest
2.5km south of town, these six split-level
cabins are beautifully designed with bush-
land views from private balconies.
Alkoomie Cattle Station ¨
Mountain Retreat FARM STAY $$
(% 07-4069 5463; www.alkoomie.com.au; Alkoomie
Station; tents $80, self-contained units $100, d incl
4 59
meals $199-225; as ) You’ll need a 4WD to
reach this 18,000-hectare working cattle
station, 45km west of Cooktown. Activities
include horse riding, feeding farm animals,
swimming below waterfalls and nightly star-
gazing, plus day tours.
Seaview Motel MOTEL $$
(% 07-4069 5377; www.cooktownseaviewmotel.
com.au; 178 Charlotte St; d $99-175, townhouses
$235; a W s ) Awesomely located opposite
the wharf, with a large variety of rooms
(including townhouses and some with pri-
vate balconies). Rates include continental
breakfast.
Sovereign Resort Hotel HOTEL $$$
(% 07-4043 0500; www.sovereign-resort.com.au;
cnr Charlotte & Green Sts; d $180-220, tr & q $210-
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C
280; aiWs ) Cooktown’s priciest digs are
right on the main street, with a warren of
breezy, slightly dated tropical-style rooms
with wooden-slat blinds and tile floors.
5 Eating & Drinking
Gill’d & Gutt’d FISH & CHIPS $
(% 07-4069 5863; Fisherman’s Wharf, Webber Es-
planade; mains $7-12; h 11.30am-9pm) Fish and
chips the way it should be – fresh and right
on the waterside wharf.
The Italian ITALIAN $
(% 07-4069 6338; Charlotte St; mains $13-22; h 5-
9.30pm Mon-Sat) Popular Italian restaurant
serving old-school Aussie-style pizzas in a
bustling environment. Takeaways available.
Cornett’s IGA
P loer
S
SUPERMARKET $
(cnr Helen & Hogg Sts; h 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-
oetkto
6pm Sat, 9am-5pm Sun) Groceries.
pDi ng
own
Balcony Restaurant MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$
u g l as to C o o kto wn
(% 07-4069 5400; Sovereign Resort, cnr Charlotte
& Green Sts; mains $25-33; h 7-9.30am & 6-10pm)
Upstairs, the Sovereign Resort’s formal
Balcony Restaurant serves French-inspired
Mod Oz cuisine like confit of duck with
sweet potato puree or pistachio-crusted rack
of lamb (along with seafood, of course). The
Cafe-Bar (mains $11-23; h 11am-8pm; i v )
has reasonably priced seafood, pizzas and
BLTs, as well as pool tables and free internet.
Cooktown Bowls Club LICENSED CLUB $$
(% 07-4069 5819; Charlotte St; mains $15-25;
h 11.30am-2.30pm Wed-Fri, 5.30-10pm daily; c )
Have a huge bistro meal before joining in
social bowls on Wednesday and Saturday af-
ternoon and barefoot bowls on Wednesday
evening.
4 60
Restaurant 1770 MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$$
(% 07-4069 5440; 7 Webber Esplanade; breakfast
$19, lunch & dinner mains $30-39; h 7.30-9.30am,
11.30am-2pm & 6-9.30pm Tue-Sat; v ) Opening
onto a romantic waterside deck right next to
the wharf, fresh fish – such as beer-battered
barra and coral trout – takes top billing, but
save space for mouth-watering desserts.
Cooktown Hotel PUB
(% 07-4069 5308; www.cooktownhotel.com; 96
Charlotte St; h 10am-midnight) The double-
storey timber ‘Top Pub’ is a local landmark
at the top (southern) end of Charlotte St.
Plenty of character, plenty of locals and a
side beer garden to sit with a beer, pizza and
pub grub.
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef LIn
88 Information
Check www.cooktownandcapeyork.com for
information on the town and surrounding areas.
Cooktown Travel Centre (% 07-4069 5446;
113 Charlotte St) Information and bookings for
tours, transport and accommodation.
Nature’s Powerhouse (% 07-4069 6004;
www.naturespowerhouse.com.au; Walker St;
h 9am-5pm) Has brochures outlining some of
the area’s excellent walking trails, including a
walk to the Coral Sea beaches at Finch Bay (25
minutes) and Cherry Tree Bay (one hour).
88 Getting There & Around
Cooktown’s airfield is 10km west of town along
McIvor Rd. Hinterland Aviation (% 07-4035
9323; www.hinterlandaviation.com.au) has
one to four flights daily except Sunday to/from
Cairns (one way $410, 40 minutes).
Giuza
Country Road Coachlines (% 07-4045 2794;
fo
l frrS
www.countryroadcoachlines.com.au) runs a
dmat
daily bus service between Cairns and Cooktown
avanna
Is li o
($79) on either the coastal route (Bloomfield
Track, via Port Douglas) or inland route (via
and
n h
Mareeba), depending on the day of departure
and the condition of the track.
For a taxi call % 07-4069 5387.
Lizard Island
The spectacular islands of the Lizard group
are clustered just 27km off the coast about
100km from Cooktown. Jigurru (Lizard
Island), a sacred place for the Dingaal In-
digenous people, has dry, rocky and moun-
tainous terrain for bushwalking, glistening
white swimming beaches, and a relatively
untouched fringing reef for snorkelling
and diving. Apart from the ground where
the luxury resort stands, the entire island
is national park, so it’s open to anyone who
makes the effort to get here.
There are good dives right off the island,
and the outer Barrier Reef is less than 20km
away, including two of Australia’s best-
known dive sites – Cod Hole and Pixie Bom-
mie. Lizard Island Resort offers a full range
of diving facilities to its guests. Some live-
aboard tours from Cairns dive the Cod Hole.
There are great walks through country
that switches from mangrove to rainforest
to dry and rocky in mere minutes, including
a superb hike up to Cook’s Look (368m); al-
low three hours return. The trail starts from
the northern end of Watson’s Bay near the
camp site.
Accommodation options are camping or a
five-star luxury resort.
Lizard Island Resort (% 1300 863 248;
www.lizardisland.com.au; Anchor Bay; d from
$1444; aiWs ) has luxurious villas, spa
treatments and a top restaurant. Kids aren’t
allowed. The camping ground (per person
$5.45) is a 10-minute walk from the resort,
at the northern end of Watson’s Bay. You’ll
need a permit from Queensland Parks
(% 13 74 68; www.nprsr.qld.gov.au), and it’s worth
checking that the water pump, toilets and
gas barbecues are working. Campers must
be self-sufficient, though the resort’s bar is
accessible if you’re after a drink.
Book through the resort for all air trans-
fers to/from Cairns (return $590). Flight
time is one hour. Daintree Air Services
(% 1800 246 206, 07-4034 9400; www.daintreeair.
com.au) has full-day tours from Cairns at
8am (from $750). The trip includes lunch,
snorkelling gear, transfers and a local guide.
GULF SAVANNAH
The world has a different tint out here: the
east coast’s green cloud-tipped mountains
and sugarcane fields give way to a flat, red
dust–coated landscape of sweeping grass
plains, scrubby forest and mangroves en-
graved by an intricate network of seasonal
rivers and croc-filled tidal creeks that drain
into the Gulf of Carpentaria. The fishing here
is legendary, particularly for barramundi
(barra season runs from mid-January to the
end of September).
Most of this area is on – or just off – the
epic Savannah Way, which stretches right
across the north of the country from Cairns
to Broome. Stop by rusting roadhouses and
 4 61

HOPE ISLANDS
Adventurous souls can play Robinson Crusoe out on the Hope Islands National Park,
with just you and nature (and the odd passing boat). East Hope and West Hope
islands are sand cays about 10km offshore from the mainland, 37km southeast of
Cooktown. Both are national parks, which protects the hardy mangroves and shrub
vegetation. West Hope is an important nesting site for pied imperial pigeons – access
is not permitted during nesting from 1 September to 31 March. Snorkelling is excellent
around both islands but best on the leeward margin of the East Hope Island reef; beware
of strong currents. East Hope Island has three camp sites (camping per person $5.45)
with toilets, tables and fire places. Permits are required and there’s a seven-day limit;
contact Queensland Parks (% 13 74 68; www.nprsr.qld.gov.au). Take drinking water, food
and a fuel stove.
Getting here isn’t cheap. Contact Bloomfield River Water Sports (% 07-4060
8252; flyingfox@animalaware.net; Cnr West & First St, Ayton; $180 per person) for travel infor-
mation and to arrange return boat transfers to Hope Islands National Park.

Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef T

you’ll meet folk with stories to tell, and not
many people to tell them to (mobile-phone
service is nonexistent in some places). And
you don’t even need a 4WD to explore most
of it – just a sense of adventure.
88 Information
Check www.gulf-savannah.com.au and www.
savannahway.com.au for info.
88 Getting There & Around
AIR
Skytrans (% 1300 759 872; www.skytrans.com.
au) flies several times a week between Cairns
and Normanton (from $190) and Burketown
(from $200), and between Mt Isa and Burketown
(from $190).
Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park, while the
Nardoo–Burketown Rd cuts across to meet the
Burke Developmental Rd at the Burke & Wills
Roadhouse. Many sealed roads are single-file.
TRAIN
The historic Savannahlander (% 1800 793 848,
07-4053 6848; www.savannahlander.com.au;
one way/return $227/381), aka the ‘Silver Bul-
let’, chugs along a traditional mining route from
Cairns to Forsayth and back, departing from
Cairns on Wednesday at 6.30am and returning
on Saturday at 6.40pm. A range of tours (includ-
ing side trips to Chillagoe, Undara and Cobbold
Gorge) and accommodation can be booked
online.
The snub-nosed Gulflander (% 07-4745
1391; www.gulflander.com.au; one way/return
$67/111) runs once weekly in each direction
Gh
In
between Normanton and Croydon on the 1891
ufo
el fSrS

BUS gold-to-port railway line alongside the Gulf

Trans North (% 07-4096 8644; www.trans­ Developmental Rd. It leaves Normanton on
avanna
mat
avanna

northbus.com) has a service from Cairns to Wednesday at 8.30am, and leaves Croydon on
Karumba ($148, 11 hours) three times a week, Thursday at 8.30am.
i o n hhWay

departing from Cairns Monday, Wednesday and

Friday, stopping at the Undara turn-off ($65, five
hours), Georgetown ($84, 6½ hours), Croydon
($107, 8½ hours) and Normanton ($143, 10½
hours). The return service runs Tuesday, Thurs-
day and Saturday.
No buses link Normanton with Mt Isa or
Burketown.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The sealed Gulf Developmental Rd (Savannah
Way, Rte 1) runs from Cairns to Normanton.
From here you can continue on bitumen up to
Karumba, or continue on the gravel Gulf Track to
Burketown and beyond to the Northern Territory
(NT) border.
Heading south from Burketown the unsealed
road to Camooweal runs via Gregory Downs and
TOURS
Several operators run tours from Cairns, includ-
ing Wilderness Challenge (% 07-4035 4488,
1800 354 486; www.wilderness-challenge.com.
au; 9-day accommodated tours from $3195,
11-day camping safaris from $3195).
T he Savannah Way
Undara Volcanic National Park
About 190,000 years ago, the Undara shield
volcano erupted, sending molten lava
coursing through the surrounding land-
scape. While the surface of the lava cooled
4 62
and hardened, hot lava continued to race
through the centre of the flows, eventu-
ally leaving the world’s longest continuous
(though fragmented) lava tubes.
All up there are over 160km of tubes, but
only a fraction can be visited, on guided
tours only. Most are operated by Undara Ex-
perience (% 07-4097 1900, 1800 990 992; www.
undara.com.au; 2-4hr tours $50-90). Tours only
run in the Dry. Overnight tours run from
Cairns; Bedrock Village Caravan Park &
Tours (% 07-4062 3193; www.bedrockvillage.com.
au; full day adult/child $124/62, half-day $76/38)
has tours from Mt Surprise.
The closest accommodation to the tubes
and national park is at the resort-like Un-
dara Experience (% 1800 990 992; www.un-
dara.com.au; unpowered/powered sites $11/16, d
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef T
swag tents $42, d cabins $194, s carriages without
bathroom $79, d carriages with/without bathroom
$179/158; as ), which has atmospheric vin-
tage railway carriages converted into comfy
rooms (some with bathroom). Facilities
include barbecues and campfire entertain-
ment. There’s also a campfire bush breakfast
(adult/child $25/12.50) and a bistro (lunch
buffet adult/child $25/12.50, dinner mains
$18 to $34). Meals need to be booked in ad-
vance.
The turn-off to Undara is 81km south-
west of Innot Hot Springs, from where it’s
a sealed 15km.
Undara to Croydon
Back on the Gulf Developmental Rd, 39km
Gh
past the Undara turn-off, the ‘jewel of a
u
e tt
town’ Mt Surprise (population 306) lives up
el fSi S
to its moniker, with gem collections, snake
avanna
ngavanna
collections, even a miniature horse collec-
T h e rhehWay
tion. It’s a good base for fossicking in the
nearby gemfields – Pete and Pam at Mt Sur-
prise Gems (% 07-4062 3055; www.thegemden.
com.au; Garland St) run fossicking tours (half-
& A r o u nd
day incl transport/self-drive $76/60; h Apr-Sep),
rent out tools (per day $25) and can issue li-
cences (per month $6.85, Queensland-wide).
At Planet Earth Adventures (% 07-4062
3127; p.e.a.@bigpond.com.au; unpowered/powered
sites per person $10/17, dishes $5-12), Russell
Dennis has a snake museum (gold coin
donation) where you can see deadly taipans
and king browns, and free snake shows
(10am Sunday), including snake-bite educa-
tion. The snake show can be seen at other
times by arrangement for $10. Besides offer-
ing a basic campsite, it also has a cafe serv-
ing simple fare such as coffee, burgers and
sandwiches.
Shaded Mt Surprise Tourist Van Park,
Motel & BP Roadhouse (% 07-4062 3153,
1800 447 982; 23 Garland St; unpowered/powered
sites $17/24, cabins $55-89; a s ) has a minia-
ture horse stud and a BYO cafe (mains $5 to
$19, open 7am to 7pm) serving sandwiches,
burgers and the like. Excellent Bedrock Vil-
lage Caravan Park & Tours (% 07-4062 3193;
www.bedrockvillage.com.au; Garnet St; unpowered/
powered sites $20/28, cabins $90-112) has cabins
with bathrooms and meals on request. Pizza
nights and local tours complete the experi-
ence.
About 32km west, the partly sealed Ex-
plorers’ Loop (check road conditions) takes
you on a 150km loop through old goldmin-
ing towns. At Einasleigh, have a drink at
the only pub and check out the publican’s
amazing miniature dollhouse collection be-
fore strolling across to the gorge. Continue
past Forsayth to the private spring-fed oa-
sis of Cobbold Gorge. Cobbold Gorge Vil-
lage (% 07-4062 5470, 1800 669 922; www.cob-
boldgorge.com.au; sites unpowered/powered/with
bathroom $12/34/49, cabins $90-112; h Apr-Oct;
ais ) runs three-hour bushwalking tours
(adult/child $75/37.50; h Apr-Oct) that culmi-
nate with a boat cruise through the stunning
gorge. Look for crocs basking on the rocks.
The infinity pool with a swim-up bar (!) at
the village is a welcome find in the middle of
the dry surroundings. Meals (dinner mains
$25) and all-day snacks $7-12 are available.
Cobbold Gorge tours can pick up in Geor-
getown (population 244), the endpoint of
the loop, back on the Savannah Way. There’s
not much here, bar a resident monitor liz-
ard, a free swimming pool, and the flash
Terrestrial Centre (% 07-4062 1485; h 8am-
5pm May-Sep, 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri Oct-May),
home to a visitor centre and the shimmer-
ing, 4500-strong Ted Elliot Mineral Collec-
tion (adult/child $11/9).
Croydon
POP 313
Incredibly, little Croydon was once the big-
gest town in the Gulf. Gold was discovered
in Croydon in 1885, but by the end of WWI
it had run out and the place became little
more than a ghost town.
Croydon’s visitor information centre
(% 07-4745 6125; Samwell St; h 9am-4.30pm
daily Apr-Oct, Mon-Fri Nov-Mar) screens well-
produced historical videos, and has details

of the remaining historic town buildings
and barramundi-stocked Lake Belmore,
4km north of the centre.
The Club Hotel (% 07-4745 6184; cnr Brown
& Sircom Sts; mains $20-30; h lunch & dinner;
a ), built in 1887, is the only pub left from
the mining heyday, serving up huge meals,
ice-cold beer, and sunset views from the
verandah.
At the Croydon General Store (% 07-
4745 6163; Sircom St; h 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-
7.30pm Sat & Sun) the sign declares this the
‘oldest store in Australia, established 1894’.
While we didn’t test the veracity of its claim,
the interior is definitely a throwback to ye
olde days: wooden floorboards and a small
collection of historical curios worth check-
ing out.
Campers can pitch up at Croydon Cara-
van Park (% 07-4745 6238; caravanpark@croy-
don.qld.gov.au; cnr Brown & Alldridge Sts; unpow-
ered/powered sites $15/30, cabins $95; as ).
Normanton
POP 1469
The port for Croydon’s gold rush, Norman-
ton essentially consists of one long main
street these days. The Norman River pro-
duces whopping barramundi; every Easter
the Barra Bash lures big crowds, as do the
Normanton Rodeo & Show (mid-June) and
the Normanton Races (September).
Local info is available from the visitor
information & heritage centre (% 07-4745
1065; www.carpentaria.qld.gov.au; cnr Caroline &
Landsborough Sts; h 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, to noon
Sat) and from Normanton’s Victorian-era
train station.
For a room to snooze in and an artesian
spa to soak in, try the friendly Normanton
Tourist Park (% 07-4745 1323; www.normanton-
touristpark.com.au; 14 Brown St; unpowered/pow-
ered sites $24/32, cabins with/without bathroom
$100/65; as ) located in a shady setting.
Karumba
POP 587
Ay Karumba! When the fish are biting and
the sun sinks into the Gulf in a fiery ball of
burnt ochre, this is a little piece of outback
paradise. Even if you don’t like fishing, it’s
the only town accessible by sealed road on
the entire Gulf coast.
The actual town is on the Norman River,
while Karumba Point – the best place to
stay – is about 6km away by road on the
463
beach. Karumba’s visitor information cen-
tre (% 07-4745 9582; www.carpentaria.qld.gov.
au; Walker St, Karumba Town; h 9.30am-1pm &
2-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat, noon-3pm Sun
Apr-Oct, 9.30am-2.30pm Tue-Fri Nov-Mar) has de-
tails of fishing charters, and barra-breeding
hatchery tours.
Karumba Point Sunset Caravan Park
(% 07-4745 9277; www.sunsetcp.com.au; 53 Palm-
er St, Karumba Point; unpowered/powered sites
$33/40, cabins without bathroom $101, en suite vil-
las $121; as ) has spotless amenities. Breezy,
stylish End of the Road Motel (% 07-4745
9599; www.endoftheroadmotel.com.au; 26 Palmer
St, Karumba Point; d $145-190; a W s ) is next
door to the Sunset Tavern (% 07-4745 9183;
The Esplanade, Karumba Point; mains $15-30;
h 10am-midnight) – the place to take in those
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef N
glorious sunsets, ice-cold beer in hand.
Ash’s Holiday Units (% 07-4745 9132; www.
ashsholidayunits.com.au; 21 Palmer St; s/d $90/95;
as ) are self-contained with a cafe serving
great fish and chips.
Normanton to Cloncurry
The sealed 378km of road between Norman-
ton and Cloncurry is mostly single file, and
floodway signs give you an idea of what it’s
like during the Wet: wet. The flat dry-grass
country slowly morphs into small rises and
forests of termite hills.
Everyone stops at the Burke & Wills
Roadhouse (% 07-4742 5909; unpowered/
powered sites $20/25, d $75; h 5.30am-midnight,
restaurant till 9pm; a ) to down a cold drink
Gueott
among noisy apostle birds. Fuel is available.
lrfmanto
The Quamby Hotel (% 07-4742 5952; Ma-
i Sng
tilda Hwy; s/d $50/70, mains $15-25; h dinner
avanna
6-9pm; a ) is 135km from the Roadhouse and
T hne rto
43km north of Cloncurry. Camping’s avail-
able on request, but there’s no fuel.
eh &C lo
A rnc
Normanton to Northern
o uund
Territory
rry
At the start of the unsealed, dusty stretch
from Normanton to the NT, stop by eerie
Burke & Wills Camp 119, the northernmost
camp of the ill-equipped explorers’ wretched
1861 expedition – they came within just 5km
of reaching the gulf. The camp is signposted
37km west of Normanton.
Besides legendary fishing, isolated Bur-
ketown (population 202) is the best place
in the world to witness the extraordinary
‘morning glory’ phenomenon (p464).
464
Burketown Pub (%07-4745 5104; www.bur-
ketownpub.com; Beames St; s/d $65/85, units $100-
140; a), the heart and soul of Burketown, was
originally built as the local customs house in
the late 1860s and was recently rebuilt after
a fire. Swap stories with locals and travellers
in the beer garden, or over a meal (mains
$9 to $30, open 11am to 2pm and 6pm to
9pm). Nearby, Burketown Caravan Park
(%07-4745 5118; www.burketowncaravanpark.net.
au; Sloman St; powered sites $30, d & cabins without
bathroom $70-90, cabins with bathroom $120; a)
has a takeaway van (mains $9-25; hnoon-2pm
& 6-9pm) dishing up Ben Hur–sized brekkies
and two-handed barra burgers.
The only fuel stop for the 486km run be-
tween Burketown and Borroloola (NT) is
the Doomadgee Aboriginal Community
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B
(% 07-4745 8188). You’re welcome to buy fuel
and supplies here; village access is subject to
council permission, and alcohol is restricted.
It’s another 80km of Melaleuca scrub to
Hell’s Gate Roadhouse (% 07-4745 8258; un-
powered sites $20), 50km from the NT border.
It has fuel, camping (no power) and snacks
(ie pies), but it’s cash only.
Burketown to Camooweal
The 334km unsealed road from Burketown
to Gregory Downs is the most direct route to
beautiful Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National
Park. For 2WDs, the easiest route to Gregory
Downs is the sealed road from the Burke &
Wills Roadhouse.
C ap
G
u
e tt
r ekieYo
MORNING GLORY
ng
torwn
Between approximately August and
TkhPeeto
November, Burketown becomes the
home of intrepid cloud-surfers, when
rne i C
‘morning glory’ clouds frequently (but
ns
& am
unpredictably) roll in. A rare meteoro-
Aurlooaouw
logical phenomenon, these tubular
clouds come in wave-like sets of up to
nd
eight. Each can be up to 1000km long
eal
by 2km high, and travel at speeds of
up to 60km per hour. As the sun rises,
gliders head up in the hope of catch-
ing one; ask around and chances are
someone will take you along for the
ride. For a close-up look at the clouds
aboard a light plane, contact Gulf-wide
charter company Savannah Aviation
(% 07-4745 5177; www.savannah-aviation.
com; per hr for up to 4 people $650).
The park entrance is 100km west of Gre-
gory Downs (population 40) on the pretty
Gregory River. Fuel is available at the Gre-
gory Downs Hotel (% 07-4748 5566; camp
sites per person $15, d motel units $100; a ), a
laid-back spot to quench your thirst and
tuck into decent pub meals (mains $10 to
$25, open noon to 2pm daily and 6pm to
9pm Monday to Saturday).
Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill)
National Park
A series of deep flame-red sandstone gorges,
fed by spring water and lined with palms,
provides a haven for wildlife at this outback
oasis. The Waanyi Aboriginal people have
inhabited the area for some 30,000 years,
and paintings abound. Book ahead for all
accommodation.
In the southern part of the park is the
World Heritage–listed Riversleigh fos-
sil field (adult/child $12/7.50), with a small
camp­ground (% 13 74 68; www.nprsr.qld.gov.
au; per person $5.45; h Mar-Oct). The fossils in-
clude everything from giant snakes and car-
nivorous kangaroos to pocket-sized koalas.
Some 20km of walking tracks fan out
around Lawn Hill Gorge, while the emerald-
green waters are idyllic for a swim or a pad-
dle in a canoe with the red cliffs towering
above.
The main hub is Adel’s Grove (% 07-4748
5502; www.adelsgrove.com.au; unpowered sites/
permanent tents/d $34/100/130; h camping year-
round, other accommodation & facilities Easter-late
Oct), 10km east of the park entrance. It’s a
mini-resort with an on-site bar and res-
taurant (breakfast $12.50, lunch mains $10-15,
2-course dinner $30). Fuel, food packs and ba-
sic groceries are available, as well as fasci-
nating Riversleigh fossil field tours ($75 for
a half-day tour), and canoe hire (from $20
per hour).
CAPE YORK PENINSULA
Rugged and remote Cape York Peninsula has
one of the wildest tropical environments on
the planet. The Great Dividing Range forms
the spine of the cape, with tropical rainfor-
ests and palm-fringed beaches on its eastern
flanks and sweeping savannah woodlands,
eucalypt forests and coastal mangroves on
its west. This untamed landscape undergoes
an amazing transformation each year when

the torrential rains and flooded rivers of the
monsoonal ‘wet season’ form vast wetlands
that isolate the region.
The overland pilgrimage to the tip of
Australia is one of the greatest 4WD routes
on the continent, an exhilarating trek into
Australia’s last great frontier. The challenge
of rough corrugated roads, difficult creek
crossings and croc-infested rivers is part of
the adventure, the cape’s rich bird life and
untouched wilderness its reward.
Avoid the wet season (November to
March), when heavy rains can close roads
for lengthy periods. The best time to visit is
early in the dry season, generally from the
beginning of June, when days are warm and
evenings are cool.
T Tours
Tour operators run trips to the cape – mainly
from Cairns, some from Cooktown. Most
tours range from six to 14 days and take
five to 20 passengers. Tours generally run
between April and October, but dates may
be affected by an early or late wet season.
Places visited include Laura, Split Rock gal-
lery, Lakefield National Park, Coen, Weipa,
the Eliot River System (including Twin
Falls), Bamaga, Somerset and Cape York;
Thursday and Horn Islands are usually an
optional extra. Many operators offer differ-
ent combinations of land, air and sea travel,
and camping or motel-style accommoda-
tion. Prices include meals, accommodation,
and transfers from Cairns.
Heritage Tours TOUR
(% 1800 77 55 33, 07-4054 7750; www.heritage-
tours.com.au; 7-day fly/drive tours from $2199;
h May-Oct) Big range of tours, including fly/
drive, cruise and overland with camping or
accommodation options.
Wilderness Challenge TOUR
(% 1800 354 486, 07-4035 8888; www.wilderness-
challenge.com.au; 7-day camping tours $2095,
7-day accommodated fly/drive tours $3195; h May-
Oct) Informative guides and a range of fly/
drive/cruise and camping and accommoda-
tion options ranging from five to 12 days.
Oz Tours Safaris TOUR
(% 1800 079 006; www.oztours.com.au; 7-day fly/
drive camping tours from $1995, 16-day overland
tours from $3500) Numerous tours, air/sea/
overland options, and camping or motel op-
tions ranging from seven to 16 days.
465
Cape York Motorcycle
Adventures MOTORCYCLING, TOUR
(% 07-4059 0220; www.capeyorkmotorcycles.com.
au; 8-day tours $5445) This all-inclusive motor-
cycle tour is from Cairns to the Tip, passing
through Cape Trib and other places.
Aurukun Wetland Charters CULTURAL TOUR
(% 07-4058 1441; www.aurukunwetlandcharters.
com; 3-5 day tours from $750 per day) In the
remote western cape south of Weipa, this
cultural and wildlife tour is led by Indig-
enous guides from the Aurukun community.
Accommodation is aboard the MV Pikkuw
(maximum eight passengers). These wet-
lands are exceptional for birdwatching.
88 Information & Permits
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C
The foremost consideration of a cape trip is
good preparation. Carry spares, tools and equip-
ment, and check RACQ road reports (% 13 19
40; www.racq.com.au). Water can be scarce
along the main track, and roadhouses stock only
basic food supplies.
North of the Dulhunty River, permits (% 13 74
68; www.nprsr.qld.gov.au; permits $5.45) are
required to camp on Aboriginal land – basically
all the land north of the river. The Injinoo people
are the traditional custodians of much of this
land and the Injinoo Aboriginal Community,
which runs the ferry across the Jardine River,
includes a camping permit in the ferry fee.
Travelling across Aboriginal land elsewhere
on the cape may require an additional permit,
which you can obtain by contacting the relevant
community council. See the Cape York Sustain-
able Futures website (www.cypda.com.au) for To
details. Permits can take up to six weeks.
ap
A
u
Be aware that mobile-phone coverage is spo-
PEer sYOR
radic and Telstra-network only.
Yo r K
ALCOHOL RESTRICTIONS
k PE
On the way up to the cape you’ll see signs warn-
eN
ing of alcohol restrictions, which apply to all
n Ii N
visitors. In some communities alcohol is banned
ns
completely and cannot be carried in. In the
S UL
ula
Northern Peninsula Area (north of the Jardine
A
River) you can carry a maximum of 11.25L of beer
(or 9L of premixed spirits) and 2L of wine per
vehicle (not per person). Fines for breaking the
restrictions are huge – up to $41,250. For up-to-
date information see www.datsima.qld.gov.au.
MAPS & BOOKS
The Hema maps Cape York & Lakefield National
Park and the RACQ maps Cairns/Cooktown/
Townsville and Cape York Peninsula are the best.
Ron and Viv Moon’s Cape York – an Adventurer’s
Guide is a comprehensive guide for 4WD and
camping enthusiasts.
 PE
fo
ap
InA mat
erYOR
Yo eN
Ki oPnE
rk P eSru
ns
& Ii N
n m
UL ai ts
lA
4 66
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C

0 100 km
Cape York Peninsula 0 60 miles

TORRES STRAIT Horn Island

Thursday Island Cape
Prince of Wales Island York
Punsand Bay Camping Resort
Crocodiles can inhabit all Seisia Somerset
waterways in tropical areas;
Bamaga
swimming is not recommended. Jardine River Jackey Jackey Airfield
Ferry & Roadhouse
Jardine River Jardine River National Park
Northern Bypass Rd Twin Falls & Eliot Falls
ABORIGINAL Fruit Bat Falls
LAND
Old Telegraph Track Captain Billy Landing
unty Heathlands
Mapoon Aboriginal Dulhiver Ranger Shelburne Bay
R Station
Community Southern Cape Grenville
Bypass Rd Bramwell Junc
Bramwell Station
Temple Bay Great Barrier Reef
Moreton Telegraph Station Iron Range Marine Park
Duyfken Pt National Park Portland Roads
Weipa Batavia
Downs Chili Beach
Albatross CORAL
Bay Weymouth Bay
Pera Lockhart River SEA

Rd
Head Oyala Thumotang Aboriginal Community

Telegraph
National Park ABORIGINAL M
LAND
Gre

Merluna Pa V T
Portland Roads Rd
at

Worbody Pt (Archer Bend) Station ss

en rini
Aurukun Archer River ge ty
Ba

r
Aboriginal River Roadhouse r R Ba
GULF OF
rri

che
Community ou y
Rockeby te

Ar
CARPENTARIA
er R

ABORIGINAL
LAND The Bend
eef

Coen Port
D e

Kendall Oyala Thumotang t

v

National Park tewar Stewart Flinders

Ri
S Princess
ve
r
(Rockeby) River Island
elop

Charlotte Cape Melville

la

ABORIGINAL Holroyd River Lotus Bay National Park

Pen menta

Bird Red Lily

River

Pormpuraaw LAND Cape York Lizard

Lodge Lagoon
insu l Rd
Normanby

Aboriginal Peninsula Island

Community Musgrave Kalpowar Crossing
White Lily Lagoon
 an ead New Laura
lem r rehRiver Homestead Lakefield Hopevale
Co Rive
Mitchell And Mo National Aboriginal
Alice Rivers Hann River Park
Kowanyama Roadhouse Old Laura Community

r
National Park

r
Homestead

ve
H

ve
Al Endeavour Falls

Ri ann

Mi
Ri
ice
Laura

tch
Split Rock Cooktown
81

ell
Jowalbinna 81
Quinkan
Pal
Reserve Lakeland
Mornington Bu Riv mer iver
R
Island Wellesley rke er Palmer River Cape

Rd
Staaten R
Islands iver De
ve Roadhouse Tribulation
Gununa Daintree
Daintree Village

ntal
lop
Denham Island Sydney Island me National Park
nta
l Rd Mossman
Forsyth Island

pme
Mt Carbine Port Douglas

Wal
Staaten River

elo
81

4W
Allen Island

D
Sweers Island ABORIGINAL National Park 44

Dev
Bentinck LAND

Tr

sh R
i
e

ac
Hell's Gate Island

ve
rk

r
Roadhouse Bu Chillagoe Cairns
Mungana Mareeba
Gi Chillagoe
Doomadgee Karumba 1

r
Bynoe lbe Almaden

o
rt

ve
Aboriginal Bulleringa Caves 27 52

h
River Atherton

Ri lson
r

ic
Community sleigh

N
Burketown Normanton Eina Ri National Park
ve
r

River
Riv
Burke & Wills' Gu Mt Garnet Ravenshoe
in nde

er
Camp 119 25
n

lf Develop

Leichhardt
me O'Brien's Creek
Traahla
an

nta Innot
Gemfields
v

Walker's Leichhardt Gulflander T lR 1

Hot Springs
Sa

Boodjamulla Monument Falls rain d

Croydon
1 Forty Mile Scrub National Park
(Lawn Hill) (Savannah Way Mt Surprise
National Park Gregory ) 1 Undara Volcanic
Lawn Adel's Downs Georgetown Undara National Park
Hill Grove Lava Tubes
er
He Rive
t

Girringun Hinchinbrook
rb r

Creek 4W Rd Forsayth Einasleigh

Tr D 63 National Park Island
ac 83 Cobbold
k
Gorge Wallaman
Riversleigh Burke & Wills Falls Ingham
Fossil Field Roadhouse

Camooweal
Leichh
Mt Fox

F
s Greenvale A7 Magnetic
wn (811m)
Do 83 63 Island
Gregory

ardt R
linde
Northern Territory (15km)

rs
62

iver
Townsville
Riv

Camooweal
Burdeer

Camooweal Caves National Park

kin

Quamby (25km);

Riv
Mt Isa (50km) Kajabbi A6

er
Cloncurry (50km)

InA
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef C fo
ap Yo
erW
PE OR
mat &NiIns
r kiKoPPneEn l aiAts
PNeSruUL
m
467
468
88 Getting There & Away
AIR
QantasLink (% 13 13 13; www.qantas.com.au)
flies daily from Cairns to Weipa and Horn Island.
Skytrans (% 1300 759 872; www.skytrans.com.
au) has daily flights from Cairns to Bamaga.
BOAT
MV Trinity Bay (% 07-4035 1234; www.sea­
swift.com.au; 2 days per person twin share incl
meals one way without bathroom $710, 5-day re-
turn with bathroom $1590) runs a weekly cargo
ferry to Thursday Island and Seisia that takes up
to 38 passengers. It departs from Cairns every
Friday and returns from Seisia on Monday.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
It is 925km from Cairns to the top of Cape York
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef Lak
via the shortest and most challenging route.
The first 175km of the Peninsula Developmental
Rd from Mareeba to Lakeland is sealed. The
journey from Lakeland to Weipa is nearly 600km
of wide and reasonably well-maintained but
often corrugated unsealed road. As you head
north of the Weipa turn-off, the real adventure
begins along the Telegraph Rd (also known as
the Overland Telegraph Track) to Cape York. The
creek crossings become more numerous and
more challenging: this is pure 4WD territory.
Further north you have the choice of continuing
on Telegraph Rd or taking the better-maintained
bypass roads.
Lakeland
At Lakeland, the Peninsula Developmental
Rd (known as the PDR) heads northwest
up the cape as a wide, well-maintained dirt
C ap
G e tt
road. Lakeland has a general store with fuel,
e li Yo
a small caravan park and a hotel-motel.
ng
and
Leaving Lakeland you enter Quinkan
rTkhPeerne i ns
country, so named for the Aboriginal spir-
its depicted at the rock-art sites scattered
throughout this area. Unesco lists Quinkan
country in the top 10 rock-art regions in the
& Away
world. About 50km north of Lakeland is the
ula
turn-off to the gallery at Split Rock, the only
site open to the public. The sandstone es-
carpments here are covered with paintings
dating back 14,000 years.
Laura
POP 120
This sleepy settlement comes alive in June
of odd-numbered years with the three-day
Laura Aboriginal Dance Festival (www.
laurafestival.tv), the largest traditional Indig-
enous gathering in Australia.
You can fuel up at the roadhouse (% 07-
4060 2211; Peninsular Development Rd) or the
Laura Store & Post Office (% 07-4060
3238; Terminus St). Both also sell ice and basic
groceries.
The Quinkan & Regional Cultural Centre
(% 07-4060 3457; www.quinkancc.com.au; adult/
child $5.50/2; h 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3.30pm
Sat & Sun) covers the history of the region. Staff
also help organise guided tours of the Split
Rock art sites with an Indigenous guide.
The historic, corrugated-iron Quinkan
Hotel (% 07-4060 3393; Deighton Rd; unpowered/
powered sites $23/30, r $75) burnt down in 2002
and although the rebuilt and refurbished
pub is clean and functional it lacks the rustic
character of the original. The park opposite
the pub has a lock-up dating from the 1880s.
Laura to Musgrave
North from Laura some of the creek cross-
ings, such as the Little Laura and Kennedy
Rivers, are great places to camp. For a scenic
alternative route to Musgrave, take the turn-
off for Lakefield National Park, about 28km
north of Laura.
Staying on the Peninsula Developmental
Rd (PDR) brings you to a food-and-fuel (and
beer) pit stop, the Hann River Roadhouse
(% 07-4060 3242; Peninsula Developmental Rd;
camp sites $8), 76km north of Laura.
The Musgrave Roadhouse (% 07-4060
3229; www.musgraveroadhouse.com.au; camp
sites $10, r $100), 80km from Hann River,
was built in 1887. Originally a telegraph sta-
tion, it’s now a licensed cafe and sells fuel,
basic groceries, beer and meals ($5 to $30).
Rooms are simple while the camping area is
green and grassed.
Musgrave to Archer River
Coen (pop 416), the ‘capital’ of the cape, is
a tiny township 108km north of Musgrave.
A repeater station relocated from the
Overland Telegraph line, Coen Heritage
House has been restored as a museum.
Wash down the bulldust with a beer at
the legendary S’Exchange Hotel (% 07-
4060 1133; Regent St) (basic rooms available
from $100 per night). After a boozy prank
the ‘S’ on top of the pub has become a per-
manent fixture. Neat rooms are available
next door at the Homestead Guesthouse
(% 07-4060 1157; www.coenguesthouse.com.au; 37
Regent St; r from $90).

A picturesque riverside spot for campers
is at the Bend, about 5km north of Coen.
Twenty-five kilometres north is the turn-off
to the remote Mungkan Kandju National
Park.
There are plenty of shady and pleasant
camping locations along the river, but if
you’re wanting to observe life on a working
cattle station, Merluna Station (% 07-4060
3209; www.merlunastation.com.au; unpowered
sites $13, cabins $130-150, s/d without bathroom
$80/100; a ), about 80km northwest of the
Archer River Roadhouse, has accommoda-
tion in converted workers quarters.
The Archer River Roadhouse (% 07-4060
3266; archerriverroadhouse@bigpond.com; unpow-
ered sites adult/child $10/5, r $68; h 7.30am-10pm;
a ), 66km north of Coen, is the last fuel stop
4 69
but for most visitors Weipa is a fishing town,
renowned for barramundi. All of Weipa’s ac-
commodation can book various tours and
fishing charters.
The Weipa Caravan Park & Camping
Ground (% 07-4069 7871; www.campweipa.com;
unpowered/powered sites $30/35, cabins without
bathroom $50-100, with bathroom $120-140, lodge
r $165-180; ais ) has a shady spot on the
waterfront, and operates as the town’s in-
formal tourist office, organising mine and
fishing tours. It’s walking distance to the
local supermarket and shops. It offers a
town and mine tour (adult/child $40/12) to
see the mind-boggling extent of the mining
operation – 22,000 tons of bauxite are mined
every 24 hours and promptly sent onto wait-
ing ships in the harbour.

Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef W

before Bramwell Junction (170km north on
Telegraph Rd) or Weipa (197km west on the
PDR). Campsites and simple rooms are also
available here. After a meal, look for the me-
morial dedicated to Toots, a tough-talking
female truck driver and a Cape York legend.
Weipa
POP 3344
Weipa, the largest town on the cape, is the
site of the world’s largest bauxite mine (the
ore from which aluminium is processed),
Weipa Air (% 07-4069 7807) has scenic and
charter flights over the coast and Cape York.
A rcher River to Bramwell
Junction
Roughly 36km north of the Archer River
Roadhouse, a turn-off leads 135km through
the Iron Range National Park to the tiny
coastal settlement of Portland Roads. This
park has Australia’s largest area of lowland
rainforest, with animals that are found no

LAKEFIELD NATIONAL PARK

C ap
G
Lakefield National Park, Queensland’s second-largest national park, is renowned for
eett

its vast river systems, spectacular wetlands and prolific bird life. Covering more than
i pa
e i Yo

537,000 hectares, the park encompasses a rich and diverse landscape across the flood
ngrTkhPeerne i ns

plains of the Normanby, Kennedy, Bizant, Morehead and Hann Rivers. This extensive
river system drains into Princess Charlotte Bay on the park’s northern perimeter.
Old Laura Homestead, near the junction with the Battle Camp Rd from Cooktown,
was built soon after the 1874 Palmer River gold rush. The ranger station (% 07-4060
& Away

3260) is located at New Laura, about 25km north of the junction.

ula

The best camping facilities (with toilets and showers) are at Kalpowar Crossing
(per person $5.45) beside the Laura River. Book permits online via Queensland Parks
(% 13 74 68; www.nprsr.qld.gov.au; permits $5.45).
The picturesque Red Lily Lagoon and White Lily Lagoon, about 8km north of the
Lakefield ranger base, attract masses of bird life, including jabirus, brolgas and magpie
geese. The red lotus lilies at Red Lily Lagoon are best appreciated in the morning when
the blossoms are in full bloom.
Soon after Hann Crossing the flat, treeless landscape of Nifold Plain stretches from
horizon to horizon, its spectacular monotony broken only by sweeping grasslands and
giant termite mounds.
About 26km before Musgrave, Lotus Bird Lodge (% 07-4060 3400; www.lotusbird.
com.au; Marina Plains Rd; s/d incl meals $440/600 ; h May-Nov only; s ), a favourite with
birdwatchers, has comfortable timber cabins overlooking an idyllic lagoon.
470
further south in Australia. A popular camp
site is Chili Beach, south of Portland Roads.
Otherwise, to savour a little luxury in the
wilderness, stay in Portland House (% 07-
4060 7193; www.portlandhouse.com.au; per person
$85), a self-contained beachside cottage.
From Archer River, the Peninsula Devel-
opmental Rd continues towards Weipa, but
after 48km the Telegraph Road branches
off north for a rough and bumpy 22km
stretch to the Wenlock River crossing. Note
the sign in the tree at the crossing, which
marks floodwaters of 14.3m.
On the northern bank of the Wenlock,
Moreton Telegraph Station (% 07-4060
3360; www.moretonstation.com.au; unpowered sites
per person $10, safari tents s/d $158/194, cabins
s/d $243/298), formerly a station on the
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef B
Overland Telegraph Line, has a safari camp
set-up. You can buy fuel, meals and beer, and
perform basic workshop repairs.
Bramwell Junction Roadhouse (% 07-
4060 3230; unpowered sites per person $12)
marks the junction of the new Southern
Bypass Rd and the historic Old Telegraph
Track. This is the last fuel and supplies stop
before the Jardine River Ferry (only open
from 8am to 5pm). Fifteen kilometres before
the roadhouse is the turn-off to Australia’s
most northern cattle station, Bramwell Sta-
tion (% 07-4060 3300; bramwelltouristpark@har-
boursat.com.au; camping per person $10), which
offers basic accommodation, camping and
meals.
Bramwell Junction to
C ap
G
r
e tt
Jardine River
amw
e i Yo
ng
After Bramwell Junction there are two routes
erlTk
to the Jardine River ferry. The longer route on
lhJPeuernct
the graded and reasonably well-maintained
Southern and Northern Bypass Rds is quick-
ne i ns
er and avoids most of the creeks and rivers
& iAway
between the Wenlock and Jardine Rivers.
oun
l ato J a r d i n e R i v e r
The more direct but more challeng-
ing route down the Old Telegraph Track
(commonly called the OTT or ‘the Track’) is
where the real Cape York adventure begins.
The OTT follows the remnants of the
Overland Telegraph Line, which was con-
structed during the 1880s to allow com-
munications from Cairns to the cape via a
series of repeater stations and an underwa-
ter cable link to Thursday Island. The OTT
is a serious 4WD experience with deep cor-
rugations, powdery sand and difficult creek
crossings (especially the Dulhunty River
crossing).
A road leaves the OTT 2km north of the
Dulhunty and heads for Heathlands Rang-
er Station (% 07-4060 3241), looping past the
difficult Gunshot Creek crossing. Back on the
OTT, the road becomes sandy for a stretch
before joining the Southern Bypass Rd.
After 9km, the Northern Bypass Rd heads
west to the Jardine River ferry crossing, but
if you continue another 3km you reach the
turn-off to Fruit Bat Falls. Another 7km on
the OTT takes you to the turn-off for Twin
Falls & Eliot Falls. The falls and the deep
emerald-green swimming holes here are
spectacular, and worth a long visit. The
camping ground (per person $5.45) is the
most popular site on the trip north.
The old vehicular crossing of the Jardine
River on the OTT is closed. The only access
to the Jardine River ferry is on the Northern
Bypass Rd.
Jardine River
The Jardine River is Queensland’s largest
perennial river, spilling more fresh water
into the sea than any other river in Austral-
ia. The Jardine River Ferry & Roadhouse
(% 07-4069 1369; unpowered sites per person $5;
h 8am-5pm), run by the Injinoo Community
Council, sells fuel and operates a ferry dur-
ing the dry season ($88 return, plus $11 for
trailers). The fee includes a permit for bush
camping between the Dulhunty and Jardine
Rivers, and in designated areas north of the
Jardine.
Stretching east to the coast from the main
track is the impenetrable country of Jardine
River National Park. It includes the head-
waters of the Jardine and Escape Rivers,
where explorer Edmund Kennedy was killed
by Aborigines in 1848.
Northern Peninsula Area
Everything north of the Jardine River is
known as the Northern Peninsula Area (NPA
to the locals).
Bamaga & Seisia
The first settlement, 45km north of the Jar-
dine River, is Bamaga (population 1046),
home to Cape York Peninsula’s largest Torres
Strait Islander community. There’s a small
shopping centre, a bottle shop, a hospital
and an airstrip.

Five kilometres northwest of Bamaga,
Seisia (population 204) overlooks the
Torres Strait and is a great base from which
to explore the tip.
Cape York Adventures (% 07-4069 3302;
www.capeyorkadventures.com.au; boat charter per
day from $800, 5-7 day tours from $3500) offers
half- and full-day fishing trips and sunset
cruises, as well as tours from Cairns up to
Bamaga.
Seisia Holiday Park (% 07-4069 3243; un-
powered/powered sites per person $12/15, lodge
s/d $80/120, cottages $180-240, villas $210-240;
a i W ), next to Seisia’s wharf, is a popular
campground with good facilities and a res-
taurant (meals from $15). The park is also a
booking agent for scenic flights, 4WD tours
and the ferry to Thursday Island.
The Loyalty Beach Campground &
Fishing Lodge (% 07-4069 3372; www.loyalty­
beach.com; unpowered/powered sites $12/28,
lodge s/d $125/150, beach lodge $260), on the
beachfront 3km from the wharf, is quieter
than the holiday park. Meals are served up
at night and management can help with
tour bookings and fishing charters.
Peddells Ferry Service (% 07-4069 1551;
www.peddellsferry.com.au; adult/child $56/28;
h 8am & 4pm Mon-Sat Jun-Sep, Mon, Wed & Fri
Oct-May) runs regular ferries from Seisia jetty
to Thursday Island.
The Tip
From Bamaga the road north passes Locker-
bie Homestead. The Croc Tent (% 07-4069
3210; www.croctent.com.au; h 7.30am-6pm),
across the road, sells souvenirs and provides
an unofficial tourist information service.
The road then passes through the north-
ernmost rainforest in Australia, Lockerbie
Scrub, before reaching a Y-junction.
The track right leads to the pretty fore-
shore of Somerset with a campground. The
left track leads 10km down the road to the
now defunct Pajinka Wilderness Lodge. A
1km walk through the forest and along the
beach (over the headland if the tide’s in)
takes you to Cape York, the northernmost
tip of Australia.
On the western side of the tip, the scenic
Punsand Bay Camping Resort (% 07-4069
1722; www.punsand.com.au; unpowered/powered
sites per person $10/15, tents $140-200, air-con
cabins $220; ais ) is a remote haven in the
wilderness. A dip in the pool, or a cold beer
in the breezy restaurant, tops off the tip ex-
perience.
47 1
T hursday Island & Torres
Strait Islands
Australia’s most northern frontier consists
of more than 100 islands stretching like
stepping stones for 150km from the top of
Cape York Peninsula to Papua New Guinea.
The islands vary from the rocky, northern
extensions of the Great Dividing Range to
small coral cays and rainforested volcanic
mountains.
Torres Strait Islanders came from Mela-
nesia and Polynesia about 2000 years ago,
establishing a unique culture different from
those of Papua New Guinea and the Austral-
ian Aboriginal people.
Although Prince of Wales Island is the
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef T
largest of the group, the administrative
capital is tiny Thursday Island (it’s only 3
sq km), 30km off the cape. Although lacking
its own freshwater supply, Thursday Island
(population 2610) was selected for its deep
harbour, sheltered port and proximity to
major shipping channels. One of 17 inhab-
ited islands in the strait, TI (as it’s locally
known) was once a major pearling centre,
and the legacy of that industry has resulted
in a cultural mix of Asians, Europeans and
Islanders.
Horn Island (population 539) is the air-
and-ferry transport hub for the region with
connecting ferries to TI. Erub (Darnley Is-
land as it is also known) is in the eastern
group. It’s another important island as it has
come into the spotlight as a campaigner for
equal recognition of Torres Strait Islanders’
Ch
S
iap
guherts
rights.
Regular ferry services connect Seisia with
sday
Yo&r kAct
Thursday and Horn Islands. To visit other
inhabited Torres Strait Islands requires per-
Is
mission from the island’s council; contact
P elin
the Torres Strait Regional Council (% 07-
and
viins
4048 6200; www.tsirc.qld.gov.au; Torres Strait Haus,
t i e&
46 Victoria Pde, Thursday Island)
uslTo
a r r e s S t r a i t Is l ands
1 Sights & Activities
On Thursday Island, the Gab Titui Cultural
Centre (% 07-4069 0888; www.gabtitui.com.
au; cnr Victoria Pde & Blackall St; admission $6;
h 10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, by apt Sun) houses a
modern gallery displaying the people’s his-
tory of the Torres Strait; it also hosts cultural
events and exhibitions by local artists, and
has a popular outdoor cafe, Ilan.
TI’s pearling heyday resulted in fatalities
from decompression sickness. The Japanese
Pearl Divers Memorial at the cemetery
47 2 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
presides over the many Japanese divers bur-
ied here. TI’s war history can be experienced
with a visit to Green Hill Fort, which was
built in 1893 in response to fears of a Russian
invasion. The Torres Strait Museum, in the
fort, displays war paraphernalia and local ar-
tefacts. The fort and museum can be visited
through a bus tour run by Peddells.
The All Souls Quetta Memorial Church
was built in 1893 in memory of the 134 lives
that were lost when the Quetta struck an
uncharted reef and sank within three min-
utes. Inside the church is memorabilia from
a number of shipwrecks, including a coral-
encrusted porthole recovered from the
Quetta in 1906.
The Heritage Museum & Art Gallery
(% 07-4069 2222; www.torresstrait.com.au; Horn
Queensl and & the Gre at Barrier Reef T
Island; adult/child $7/4) at the Gateway Torres
Strait Resort on Horn Island is a good
source of information on the region’s WWII
history.
T Tours
Peddells Ferry Island ¨
Tourist Bureau BUS, TOUR
(% 07-4069 1551; www.peddellsferry.com.au; adult/
child $31/16; h 8.30am-5pm) Ninety-minute
bus tours of TI, taking in all the major tour-
ist sites. Also runs Cape York 4WD day trips
and Horn Island WWII tours.
Tony’s Island Adventures FISHING, TOUR
(% 07-4069 1965; www.tonysislandadventures.
com.au; 10 Pearl St, Thursday Island) Offers fish-
ing trips and tours of various Torres Strait
Ch
To
Islands, including Friday, Hammond and
ap
u er s
Goodes Islands.
sday
Yo r k Is
4 Sleeping & Eating
Gateway Torres Strait Resort HOTEL $$
P el n
(% 07-4069 2222; www.torresstrait.com.au; 24
and
Outie St, Horn Island; r from $180; ais ) This
i ns &
place has passable rooms and self-contained
u lTo
units. The resort houses a museum as well
a r r e s S t r a i t Is l ands
as a restaurant that offers buffet dinners and
lunches during the dry season. It’s a five-
minute walk from the Horn Island wharf.
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use,
access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair
to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other
words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass
email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions
on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with
our content.’
Grand Hotel HOTEL $$$
(% 07-4069 1557; www.grandhotelti.com.au; 6
Victoria Pde, Thursday Island; s $200-210, d $235-
260; ai ) On a hill behind the TI wharf, the
Grand has modern rooms with ocean and
mountain views. The restaurant (mains $15
to $30, open dinner Monday to Saturday)
has a balcony with sweeping views. Rates
include breakfast.
Thursday Island Motel MOTEL $$$
(% 07-4069 1569; cnr Jardine & Douglas Sts, Thurs-
day Island; s/d incl breakfast $200/215; ai ) These
comfortable motel units, connected to the
back of the Federal Hotel, are a good choice.
Torres Strait Hotel PUB $$
(% 07-4609 1141; cnr Normaby & Douglas St, Thurs-
day Island; dishes $12-28) Claim bragging rights
by chowing down on a saucy crayfish pie at
‘Australia’s Northernmost Pub’.
88 Getting There & Around
QantasLink (% 13 13 13; www.qantas.com.au)
flies daily from Cairns to Horn Island. West Wing
Aviation (www.westwing.com.au) connects
Horn Island to other islands.
Peddells Ferry Service (% 07-4069 1551;
www.peddellsferry.com.au; Engineers Jetty)
Runs regular services between Seisia and
Thursday Island. From June to September it
has two daily services from Monday to Satur-
day (adult/child $56/28 one way, 70 minutes),
and from October to May it operates only on
Monday, Wednesday and Friday. The ferry
departs from Thursday Island for Seisia at
6.30am and 2.30pm, and Seisia for Thursday
Island at 8am and 4pm.
McDonald Charter Boats (% 1300 664 875;
www.tiferry.com.au) Runs ferries between
TI and Horn Island roughly hourly between
6.10am and 6.30pm (adult/child $24/12 one
way, 15 minutes), as well as a water-taxi service
between other Torres Strait Islands. McDonald
also operates a bus service to and from Horn
Island Airport.
Rebel Marine (% 07-4069 1586; www.rebel-
tours.com.au) Operates a water taxi between
Thursday Island and Horn Island Airport,
connecting with all QantasLink flights ($20
one way).
Peru
Cuzco & the
Sacred Valley
(Chapter)
Edition 8th Edition, April 2013
Pages 77 PDF
Page Range 192-268

Coverage includes: Cuzco, Around Cuzco, Sacsaywamán, The Sacred Valley,

Pisac, Pisac To Urubamba, Urubamba, Salinas, Chinchero, Moray & Maras,
Ollantaytambo, Aguas Calientes, Machu Picchu, The Inca Trail, Cuzco To Puno,
Tipón, Piquillacta & Rumicolca, Andahuaylillas, Raqchi, Raqchi To Abra La Raya,
Cuzco To The Jungle, Cuzco To Ivochote, Cuzco To Manu, Cuzco to Puerto
Maldonado, Cuzco to the Central Highlands, Cuzco to Abancay, Choquequirau,
Abancay and Andahuaylas.

Useful Links:
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© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In
return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload
this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site
for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Cuzco & the Sacred

Valley
Cuzco............................. 194
Sacsaywamán............... 232
The Sacred Valley.......... 233
Pisac..............................234
Urubamba.....................238
Ollantaytambo.............. 242
Machu Picchu &
the Inca Trail..................246
Cuzco to Puno...............258
Cuzco to the Jungle...... 259
Cuzco to the Central
Highlands......................265
Abancay.........................265
Andahuaylas................. 267
Places to Eat
»» Cicciolina (p221)
»» La Bodega 138 (p221)
»» Huacatay (p240)
»» Indio Feliz (p249)
Why Go?
Incas deemed this spot the belly button of the world. Sure
enough, a visit to Cuzco tumbles you back into the cosmic
realm of ancient Andean culture – one that was knocked
down and fused with the finest colonial and religious splen-
dors of Spanish conquest, only to be repackaged as a thriv-
ing tourist trap. Welcome to a mystical and whimsical world
of paradox. But Cuzco is only the gateway. Beyond lies the
Sacred Valley, Andean countryside dotted with villages, high
altitude hamlets and ruins linked by trail and solitary rail-
way tracks to the country’s biggest draw – Machu Picchu.
Old ways are not forgotten. Colorful textiles link to the
past, as do the wild fiestas and carnivals with the fiber of pa-
gan tradition in solemn Catholic rituals. Just as dynamic is
a landscape that careens from Andean peaks to orchid-rich
cloud forests and Amazon lowlands. Explore it on foot or by
fat tire, rafting wild rivers or simply braving the local buses
to the remote and dust-worn corners of this far-reaching
department.
When to Go
Cuzco
°C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm
40/104 12/300

»» Chicha (p221) 30/86

8/200
20/68

Best Places to 10/50

Stay
4/100
0/32

»» Machu Picchu Pueblo -10/14 0

J F M A M J J A S O N D
Lodge (p247)
»» Greenhouse (p238)
Jun–Aug High Late Jun Cele- Sep–Oct Shoul-
»» Ecopackers (p214) season for tour- brate the solstice der season for
»» Niños Hotel (p214) ism, events and at Inti Raymi, the tourism, with
festivals, days are largest festival of fewer crowds in
»» Inkaterra La Casona (p214)
sunny and nights the year. Machu Picchu.
cold.
 193

Regional Cuisine MAIN POINTS OF

ENTRY
Sunday lunch with a country stroll is a Cuzco ritual. Locals
head to the villages south of town: Tipón is the place to eat National flights arrive
cuy (guinea pig), Saylla is the home of chicharrón (deep- at Cuzco’s Aeropuerto
fried pork) and Lucre is renowned for duck. Internacional Alejandro
Look for the following foods in local restaurants, on the Velazco Astete but
street and at festivals: plans are pending to
Anticucho Beef heart on a stick, punctuated by a potato, build an airport in the
is the perfect evening street snack. Sacred Valley near
Chinchero. Buses (in-
Caldo de gallina Healthy, hearty chicken soup is the
cluding international
local favorite to kick a hangover.
routes) go to the Termi-
Chicharrones Definitely more than the sum of its parts: nal Terrestre in Cuzco.
deep-fried pork served with corn, mint leaves, fried
potato and onion.
Choclo con queso Huge, pale cobs of corn are served
with a teeth-squeaking chunk of cheese in the Sacred Need to Know
Valley. »» Those arriving from lower
Cuy Raised on grains at home, what could be more altitudes may experience
organic? The faint of heart can ask for it served as a filet altitude sickness. Take it
(without the head and paws). easy the first few days of
your visit or start in the
Lechón Suckling pig with plenty of crackling, served
slightly lower Sacred Valley.
with tamales (corn cakes).

Top Tip
DON’T MISS

Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y 

»» Since Machu Picchu
The Corpus Christi parade on Cuzco’s Plaza de Armas tickets can no longer be
dusts off the saints for a spin through the ecstatic purchased online, get this
crowds in early June. business done early with an
authorized agent listed at
www.machupicchu.gob.pe
or in person at Cuzco’s
Boleto Turístico & Boleto Religioso Dirección Regional de
To visit most sites in the region, you will need Cuzco’s official Cultura. To add entry to the
boleto turístico (tourist ticket; adult/student under 26 with ISIC coveted Wayna Picchu hike,
card S130/70), valid for 10 days. Among the 17 sites included purchase even earlier.
are: Sacsaywamán, Q’enqo, Pukapukara, Tambomachay,
Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Chinchero and Moray, as well as an
evening performance of Andean dances and live music at
Resources
the Centro Qosqo de Arte Nativo. While some inclusions are »» www.lonelyplanet.com
admitted duds, you can’t visit any of them without it. /peru/cuzco
Three partial boletos (adult/student S70/35) cover the ru- »» www.machupicchu
ins immediately outside Cuzco, the museums in Cuzco, and .gob.pe
the Sacred Valley ruins. They are valid for one day, except for »» www.peru.travel
the Sacred Valley option, which is valid for two.
»» www.saexplorers.org
Purchase boletos turísticos from Dircetur/Cosituc
(%261-465; www.boletoturisticocusco.com; La Municipalidad, office
102, Av El Sol 103; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri) or at the sites themselves,
except for the Centro Qosqo de Arte Nativo. Students must
show valid ID.
The boleto religioso (religious tourist ticket; adult/student
S50/25), valid for 10 days, secures entry to Cuzco’s churches,
the Museo de Arte Religioso and Cuzco’s most significant
display of contemporary art at Museo Quijote. It’s available
at any of the sites.
194
CUZCO
% 084 / POP 350,000 / ELEV 3326M
Cosmopolitan Inca capital, Cuzco (also
Cusco, or Qosq’o in Quechua) today thrives
with a measure of contradiction. Ornate ca-
thedrals squat over Inca temples, massage
hawkers ply the narrow cobblestone streets,
a woman in traditional skirt and bowler of-
fers bottled water to a pet llama while the
finest boutiques hawk alpaca knits for small
fortunes. The foremost city of the Inca Em-
pire is now the undisputed archaeological
capital of the Americas, as well as the con-
tinent’s oldest continuously inhabited city.
Few travelers to Peru will skip visiting this

Pongo de
Mainique 0 50 km
Río Yavero 0 25 miles

ios
Ivochote

eD
Urubamba

ed
Río

dr
Parque Nacional
Kiteni Manu Ma

o
Rí
Vilcabamba Shintuya

Río
103 Zone
Cultural
Quillabamba

Pa
Manu Salvación

uc
Vitcos Biking to

ar
Santa
Amazon Tres Cruces
ta
María
101 Region
mb
Huancacalle Atalaya
Pillcopata
o
Abra Málaga 26
(4350m) Nevado
Santa Teresa Aguas
Calientes Verónica
Machu Picchu (5750m)
Ollantaytambo Lares
Nevado Urubamba
Choquequirau Paucartambo
Salkantay
(6271m) Maras Chinchero
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C u zco

26
Limatambo Tarawasi Anta
Pisac
Cachora
Corahuasi
Ampay Mollepata
(5228m) 26 Cuzco 28
Sahuite Ccatca Ocongate
Cconoc Oropesa
Río Tinqui
3 Abancay Andahuaylillas
Apurímac Urcos

Paruro
26
3 Ausangate
(6384m)
Acomayo
Tambobamba

Checacupe
El Progreso

Tinta
Raqchi
Colquemarca
Sicuani

Cuzco & the Sacred Valley Highlights

1 Drink in the sublime 4 Explore the narrow 7 Dine on haute cuisine
grandeur of Machu Picchu streets and shops of or cuy: Cuzco restaurants
(p246) bohemian San Blas (p205) (p221) can cater to any whim
2 Get swept into the 5 Wander ancient ruins 8 Barrel from the high
colorful frenzy of a in stunning settings Andes down into the Amazon
traditional festival (p213) throughout the Sacred on a mountain bike (p209)
3 Hike through Valley (p233) 9 Trek your way up from
traditional villages and 6 Take on the wild the tropics on the Salkantay
terraced agriculture on the Apurímac or Tampobata route (p39) to Machu
spectacular Lares trek Rivers on a whitewater Picchu
(p38) rafting trip (p208)

premier South American destination, also
the gateway to Machu Picchu.
Visitors to Cuzco get a glimpse of the
richest heritage of any South American city.
Married to 21st century hustle, at times it’s a
bit disconcerting (note the KFC and McDon-
alds behind the Inca stones). As rent soars
on the Plaza de Armas and in trendy San
Blas, locals are increasingly pushed to the
margins. Foreign guests undoubtedly have
the run of the roost, showing respect toward
today’s incarnation of this powerhouse cul-
ture is imperative.
History
Legend tells that in the 12th century, the
first inca (king), Manco Capac, was ordered
by the ancestral sun god Inti to find the spot
where he could plunge a golden rod into the
ground until it disappeared. At this spot –
deemed the navel of the earth (qosq’o in the
Quechua language) – he founded Cuzco, the
city that would become the thriving capital
of the Americas’ greatest empire.
The Inca empire’s main expansion oc-
curred in the hundred years prior to the ar-
rival of the conquistadors in 1532. The ninth
inca, Pachacutec, gave the empire its first
bloody taste of conquest, with unexpected
victory against the more dominant Chanka
tribe in 1438. His was the first wave of ex-
pansion that would create the Inca empire.
Pachacutec also proved himself a sophis-
ticated urban developer, devising Cuzco’s
famous puma shape and diverting rivers to
cross the city. He built fine buildings, includ-
ing the famous Qorikancha temple and a
palace on a corner of what is now the Plaza
de Armas. Among the monuments he built
in honor of Inca victories are Sacsaywamán,
the temple-fortress at Ollantaytambo and
possibly even Machu Picchu.
Expansion continued under following gen-
erations until Europeans discovered the New
World; at that point, the empire ranged from
Quito, in Ecuador, to the area south of San-
tiago in Chile. Shortly before the arrival of the
Europeans, Huayna Cápac had divided his
empire, giving the northern part to Atahualpa
and the southern Cuzco area to another son,
Huascar. The brothers fought bitterly for the
kingdom. As a pure-blooded ­native cuzqueño
(inhabitant of Cuzco), ­Huascar had the peo-
ple’s support, but Atahualpa had the back-
ing of the battle-hardened northern army. In
early 1532 they won a key battle, capturing
Huascar outside Cuzco.
195
Meanwhile, Francisco Pizarro landed in
northern Peru and marched southward. Ata-
hualpa himself had been too busy fighting
the civil war to worry about a small band
of foreigners, but by 1532 a fateful meeting
had been arranged with the Spaniard in Ca-
jamarca. It was a meeting that would radi-
cally change the course of South American
history: Atahualpa was ambushed by a few
dozen armed conquistadors, who succeeded
in capturing him, killing thousands of in-
digenous tribespeople and routing tens of
thousands more.
In an attempt to regain his freedom, the
inca offered a ransom of a roomful of gold
and two rooms of silver, including gold
stripped from the temple walls of Qorikan-
cha. But after holding Atahualpa prisoner
for a number of months, Pizarro murdered
him anyway, and soon marched on to Cuzco.
Mounted on horseback, protected by armor
and swinging steel swords, the Spanish cav-
alry was virtually unstoppable.
Pizarro entered Cuzco on November 8,
1533, by which time he had appointed Man-
co, a half-brother of Huascar and Atahualpa,
as the new puppet leader. After a few years
of keeping to heel, however, the docile pup-
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
pet rebelled. In 1536, Manco Inca set out to
drive the Spaniards from his empire, laying
siege to Cuzco with an army estimated at well
over a hundred thousand people. Indeed, it
was only a desperate last-ditch breakout and
violent battle at Sacsaywamán that saved the
Spanish from complete annihilation.
Manco Inca was forced to retreat to Ol-
lantaytambo and then into the jungle at Vil-
cabamba. After Cuzco was safely recaptured,
looted and settled, the seafaring Spaniards
turned their attentions to the newly founded
colonial capital, Lima. Cuzco’s importance
S ights
quickly waned, and it became just another
u zco
colonial backwater. All the gold and silver
was gone, and many Inca buildings were
pulled down to accommodate churches and
colonial houses.
The Spanish kept chronicles in Cuzco, in-
cluding Inca history as related by the Incas
themselves. The most famous of these ac-
counts is The Royal Commentaries of the In-
cas, written by Garcilaso de la Vega, the son
of an Inca princess and a Spanish military
captain.
1 Sights
While the city is sprawling, areas of interest to
visitors are generally within walking distance,
196

STARGAZING WITH THE ANCIENTS

The Incas were the only culture in the world to define constellations of darkness as well
as light. Astronomy wasn’t taken lightly: some of Cuzco’s main streets are designed
to align with the stars at certain times of the year. Understanding their interest is a
cool way to learn more about the Inca worldview. We recommend a visit to the Cuzco
Planet­arium (www.planetariumcusco.com; per person around S30) before you head out
trekking and watching the night sky on your own. Think of how clever you’ll feel pointing
out the Black Llama to your fellow hikers. Reservations are essential. Price varies with
group size and includes pickup and drop-off.

with some steep hills in between. The center CENTRAL CUZCO

of the city is the Plaza de Armas, while traffic-
choked Av El Sol nearby is the main business
thoroughfare. Walking just a few blocks north
or east of the plaza will lead you onto steep,
twisting cobblestone streets, little changed for
centuries. The flatter areas to the south and
west are the commercial center.
The alley heading away from the north-
west side of the Plaza de Armas is Procura-
dores (Tax Collectors), nicknamed ‘Gringo
Alley’ for its tourist restaurants, tour agents
and other services. Watch out for preda-
tory touts. Beside the hulking cathedral on
the Plaza de Armas, narrow Calle Triunfo
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
Plaza de Armas PLAZA
In Inca times, the plaza, called Huacaypata
or Aucaypata, was the heart of the capital.
Today it’s the nerve center of the modern
city. Two flags usually fly here – the red-and-
white Peruvian flag and the rainbow-colored
flag of Tahuantinsuyo. Easily mistaken for
an international gay-pride banner, it repre-
sents the four quarters of the Inca empire.
Colonial arcades surround the plaza, which
in ancient times was twice as large, also en-
compassing the area now called the Plaza
Regocijo. On the plaza’s northeastern side
is the imposing cathedral, fronted by a large

leads steeply uphill toward Plaza San Blas,
the heart of Cuzco’s eclectic, artistic barrio
(neighborhood).
A resurgence of indigenous pride means
many streets have been signposted with new
Quechua names, although they are still com-
monly referred to by their Spanish names.
The most prominent example is Calle Tri-
unfo, which is signposted as Sunturwasi.
At tourist sites, freelance guides speak a
varying amount of English or other foreign
languages. For more extensive tours at major
sites, such as Qorikancha or the cathedral,
S ights
flight of stairs and flanked by the churches
of Jesús María and El Triunfo. On the south-
eastern side is the strikingly ornate church of
La Compañía de Jesús. The quiet pedestrian
alleyway of Loreto, which has Inca walls, is a
historic means of access to the plaza.
It’s worth visiting the plaza at least
twice – by day and by night – as it takes on a
strikingly different look after dark, all lit up.
La Catedral CHURCH
(Map p198; Plaza de Armas; admission S25 or with
boleto religioso; h10am-5:45pm) A squatter on

the site of Viracocha Inca’s palace, the cathe-

you should always agree to a fair price in
u zco

dral was built using blocks pilfered from the

zco

advance. Otherwise, a respectable minimum

nearby Inca site of Sacsaywamán. Its con-
tip for a short tour is S5 per person in a small
struction started in 1559 and took almost a
group, and a little more for individuals.
century. It is joined by Iglesia del Triunfo
Opening hours are erratic and can change
(1536) to its right and Iglesia de Jesús
for any reason – from Catholic feast days to
María (1733) to the left.
the caretaker slipping off for a beer with
El Triunfo, Cuzco’s oldest church, houses
his mates. A good time to visit Cuzco’s well-
a vault containing the remains of the fa-
preserved colonial churches is in the early
mous Inca chronicler Garcilaso de la Vega,
morning (from 6am to 8am), when they are
who was born in Cuzco in 1539 and died in
open for Mass. Officially, they are closed
Córdoba, Spain, in 1616. His remains were
to tourists at these times, but if you go in
returned in 1978 by King Juan Carlos of
quietly and respectfully as a member of the
Spain.
congregation, you can see the church as it
The cathedral is one of the city’s great-
should be seen. Flash photography is not al-
est repositories of colonial art, especially for
lowed inside churches or museums.

works from the escuela cuzqueña (Cuzco
school), noted for its decorative combination
of 17th-century European devotional paint-
ing styles with the color palette and iconog-
raphy of indigenous Andean artists. A classic
example is the frequent portrayal of the Vir-
gin Mary wearing a mountain-shaped skirt
with a river running around its hem, identi-
fying her with Pachamama (Mother Earth).
One of the most famous paintings of
the escuela cuzqueña is The Last Supper
by Quechua artist Marcos Zapata. Found
in the northeast corner of the cathedral, it
depicts one of the most solemn occasions
in the Christian faith, but graces it with a
small feast of Andean ceremonial food; look
for the plump and juicy-looking roast cuy
(guinea pig) stealing the show with its feet
held plaintively in the air.
Also look for the oldest surviving paint-
ing in Cuzco, showing the entire city during
the great earthquake of 1650. The inhabit-
ants can be seen parading around the plaza
with a crucifix, praying for the earthquake
to stop, which it miraculously did. This pre-
cious crucifix, called El Señor de los Tem-
blores (The Lord of the Earthquakes), can
still be seen in the alcove to the right of the
door leading into El Triunfo. Every year on
Holy Monday, the Señor is taken out on pa-
rade and devotees throw ñucchu flowers at
him – these resemble droplets of blood and
represent the wounds of crucifixion. The
flowers leave a sticky residue that collects
smoke from votive candles lit beneath the
statue: this is why he’s now black. Legend
has it that under his skirt, he’s lily white.
The sacristy of the cathedral is covered
with paintings of Cuzco’s bishops, starting
with Vicente de Valverde, the friar who ac-
companied Pizarro during the conquest.
The crucifixion at the back of the sacristy is
attributed to the Flemish painter Anthony
van Dyck, though some guides claim it to
be the work of the 17th-century Spaniard
Alonso Cano. The original wooden altar is
at the very back of the cathedral, behind
the present silver altar, and opposite both is
the magnificently carved choir, dating from
the 17th century. There are also many glitzy
silver and gold side chapels with elaborate
platforms and altars that contrast with the
austerity of the cathedral’s stonework.
The huge main doors of the cathedral are
open to genuine worshippers between 6am
and 10am. Religious festivals are a superb
time to see the cathedral. During the feast of
197
Corpus Christi (p213), for example, it is filled
with pedestals supporting larger-than-life
statues of saints, surrounded by thousands
of candles and bands of musicians honoring
them with mournful Andean tunes.
Iglesia de La Compañía de Jesús CHURCH
(Map p198; Plaza de Armas; admission S15 or with bo-
leto religioso; h9-11:30am & 1-5:30pm) Built upon
the palace of Huayna Cápac, the last Inca to
rule an undivided, unconquered empire, the
church was built by the Jesuits in 1571 and
reconstructed after the 1650 earthquake.
The Jesuits planned to make it the most
magnificent of Cuzco’s churches. The arch-
bishop of Cuzco, however, complained that
its splendor should not rival that of the ca-
thedral, and the squabble grew to a point
where Pope Paul III was called upon to ar-
bitrate. His decision was in favor of the ca-
thedral, but by the time word had reached
Cuzco, La Compañía de Jesús was just about
finished, complete with an incredible ba-
roque facade and Peru’s biggest altar, all
crowned by a soaring dome.
Two large canvases near the main door
show early marriages in Cuzco and are
worth examining for their wealth of period
detail. Local student guides are available to
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
show you around the church, as well as the
grand view from the choir on the 2nd floor,
reached via rickety steps. Tips are gratefully
accepted.
Choco Museo MUSEUM
(Map p198; %24-4765; Calle Garcilaso 210; www.
chocomuseo.com; admission S2; h10:30am-
6:30pm) The wafting aromas of bubbling
chocolate will mesmerize you from the start.
While the museum is frankly lite, the best
part of this French-owned enterprise are the
organic chocolate-making workshops (S70
S ights
per person). You can also come for fondue
u zco
or a fresh cup of fair-trade hot cocoa. It or-
ganizes chocolate farm tours close to Santa
María. It’s multi-lingual and kid-friendly.
Museo de Plantas Sagradas, »
Mágicas y Medicinales MUSEUM
(Map p198; %22-2214; Calle Santa Teresa 351; admis-
sion S15; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 12-6pm Sun) This
fascinating new museum leaves no leaf un-
turned, exploring the history and workings
of Peruvian medicinal plants, sacred plants
and hallucinogenics. Highlights include dis-
plays on biopiracy, coca’s 8000 years of culti-
vation, and trippy multi-layered visuals that
emulate the ayahuasca experience. Unfortu-
nately, all of the dioramas are in Spanish. It’s
198

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200
worthwhile to contract an English-speaking
guide (S4 per person) to explain.
There’s a gift shop with quality natural
products and a lauded cafe in a private up-
stairs patio.
Central Cuzco
æ Top Sights
La Catedral ............................................D5
Qorikancha ............................................ E7
Sacsaywamán ....................................... B1
æ Sights
1 Choco Museo ........................................B5
2 Iglesia de Jesús María ...........................D4
3 Iglesia de La Compañía de Jesús..........D5
4 Iglesia de San Blas ................................ F4
5 Iglesia de Santo Domingo ..................... F7
6 Iglesia del Triunfo..................................D5
7 Iglesia San Francisco ............................A6
8 Iglesia y Monasterio de Santa
Catalina...............................................D6
9 Museo de Arte Popular .........................D6
10 Museo de Arte Precolombino ...............D4
11 Museo de Arte Religioso .......................E4
12 Museo de Historia Natural ....................D5
Museo de Plantas Sagradas,
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
Mágicas y Medicinales ............. (see 48)
13 Museo Histórico Regional.....................B6
14 Museo Inka ............................................D4
16 Museo Municipal de Arte
Contemporáneo .................................B5
17 Museo Quijote .......................................D6
18 Templo y Convento de La Merced....... C6
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
19 Action Valley..........................................B5
20 Amigos ................................................. H5
21 Andina Travel ........................................E6
S iugzc
22 Antipode ................................................E4
h tos
23 Apumayo ...............................................B6
24 Asociación de Guías Oficiales de
Turismo ..............................................B6
25 Chiquity Club Cusco .............................B6
Culturas Peru ...............................(see 72)
26 Eco Trek Peru........................................ E3
27 Fairplay..................................................E4
28 Fertur.................................................... C4
Gravity Peru ............................... (see 129)
29 Mayuc ................................................... C5
30 Party Bike .............................................. E3
31 Peruvian Highland Trek........................ C5
32 Proyecto Peru .......................................A4
33 Quechua's Expeditions ........................ C4
Museo de Arte Precolombino MUSEUM
(Map p198; %23-3210; map.perucultural.org.pe;
Plazoleta Nazarenas 231; admission S22; h9am-
10pm) Inside a Spanish colonial mansion
with an Inca ceremonial courtyard, this
34 Respons ................................................ E3
35 Samana Spa.......................................... B3
36 San Blas Spanish School...................... F4
37 SAS Travel ............................................ B6
38 X-treme Tourbulencia .......................... B4
ÿ Sleeping
39 Albergue Municipal............................... C3
40 Amaru Hostal........................................ F4
41 Andenes de Saphi................................. A2
42 Casa Cartagena .................................... D3
43 Casa de Campo Hostal ..........................D1
44 Casa Grande ......................................... E5
45 Casa San Blas ....................................... F4
46 Casona les Pleiades...............................F3
47 Del Prado Inn ........................................C4
Divina Comedia............................(see 66)
48 Ecopackers ........................................... B5
49 El Balcón Hostal.................................... A3
50 Eureka Hostal........................................ G4
51 Hospedaje el Artesano de San
Blas..................................................... G3
52 Hospedaje Familiar Kuntur Wasi.......... E2
53 Hospedaje Familiar Munay Wasi ......... C3
54 Hospedaje Inka ..................................... H3
55 Hospedaje Monte Horeb ...................... B5
56 Hostal Corihuasi ................................... B3
57 Hostal El Grial ....................................... E3
58 Hostal Inkarri ........................................ G6
59 Hostal Marani.........................................F3
60 Hostal Pensión Alemana ...................... E2
61 Hostal Rojas.......................................... B4
62 Hostal Rumi Punku ............................... E3
63 Hostal Señorio Real .............................. G7
64 Hostal Suecia I ......................................C4
65 Hostal Suecia II ..................................... B3
66 Hotel Arqueólogo.................................. D3
67 Hotel Libertador Palacio del Inka ..........F7
68 Hotel los Marqueses ............................. B6
69 Hotel Monasterio .................................. E4
70 Hotel Royal Inka I .................................. B5
71 Inkaterra La Casona ............................. D4
72 La Encantada ........................................ D2
La Lune....................................... (see 109)
73 Loreto Boutique Hotel .......................... D5
74 Los Andes de America.......................... B6
75 Los Angeles B&B .................................. B3
76 Los Apus Hotel & Mirador .................... E3

dramatically curated pre-Columbian art
museum showcases a stunningly varied, if
selectively small, collection of archaeological
artifacts previously buried in the vast store-
rooms of Lima’s Museo Larco. Dating from
77 Madre Tierra.......................................... E2
78 Midori ................................................... C4
79 Pantastico ............................................. F4
80 Pariwana................................................B7
81 Piccola Locanda ....................................C3
82 Pisko & Soul .......................................... E3
83 Samay Wasi........................................... F2
84 Second Home Cusco ............................ E2
85 Teatro Inka B&B....................................A5
86 The Point ...............................................B7
87 Tierra Viva .............................................A3
88 Tierra Viva Plaza .................................. C4
89 Tika Wasi ............................................... F2
90 WalkOn Inn ............................................B3
ú Eating
A Mi Manera ................................ (see 94)
91 Aldea Yanapay.......................................E5
92 CBC Bakery ...........................................G6
93 Chicha....................................................B5
94 Cicciolina ...............................................E4
95 Deli Monasterio .....................................E4
Divina Comedia ........................... (see 66)
96 El Ayllu .................................................. C6
97 El Encuentro .........................................E5
98 El Hada ..................................................E6
99 Granja Heidi........................................... F4
100 Green's Organic ....................................D5
101 Jack's Café ............................................E4
102 Juanito's ................................................ E3
103 Kintaro.................................................. C4
104 Korma Sutra..........................................G3
105 Kukuly....................................................C3
106 La Bodega 138 .......................................E5
107 La Justina ..............................................E4
108 La Quinta Eulalia ...................................D2
109 Le Soleil .................................................E6
110 Limo...................................................... C4
111 Los Perros .............................................B4
112 Los Toldos .............................................C7
113 Marcelo Batata......................................E4
114 Market .................................................. C6
115 Pacha Papa ........................................... F4
116 Picantería María Angola........................ E3
117 Prasada ................................................. E3
118 Q'ori Sara...............................................B6
119 Real McCoy ...........................................B4
120 Restaurante Chihuanhuay ....................D4
201
between 1250 BC and AD 1532, the artifacts
show off the artistic and cultural achieve-
ments of many of Peru’s ancient cultures,
with exhibits labeled in Spanish, English
and French.
121 Restaurante Egos ................................. D6
122 The Meeting Place ................................ F4
123 Trujillo Restaurant ................................ G7
124 Uchu Peruvian Steakhouse ................. E4
125 Victor Victoria ....................................... B3
û Drinking
126 7 Angelitos .............................................F3
127 Cross Keys ............................................ D5
128 Fallen Angel........................................... D4
129 Museo del Pisco.................................... E5
130 Norton Rats........................................... D5
131 Paddy Flaherty's ................................... D5
Piscuo ........................................ (see 149)
132 The Frogs .............................................. F4
ý Entertainment
133 Inka Team .............................................C4
134 Km 0.......................................................F3
135 Mama Africa..........................................C4
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
136 Muse...................................................... E5
137 Muse, Too ............................................. G3
138 Ukuku's .................................................C4
þ Shopping
Casa Ecológica.............................(see 94)
139 Centro Comercial de Cusco ................. D7
140 Inkakunaq Ruwaynin ............................ F5
141 Taller and Museo Mérida .......................F3
142 Taller Mendivil........................................F3
143 Taller Mendivil....................................... E4
144 Taller Olave ........................................... G4
145 Tatoo .....................................................C5
S ights
u zco
ï Information
146 Banco Continental ................................ D7
147 BCP ....................................................... D6
148 Bookstore Kiosk....................................C6
149 Dircetur .................................................C6
150 Interbank............................................... D7
151 iPerú......................................................C4
152 Jerusalén............................................... B6
153 South American Explorers Club ........... E2
ï Transport
154 Inca Rail.................................................C5
Peru Rail......................................(see 110)
155 Peruvian Airlines...................................C5
202

CUZCO & THE SACRED VALLEY IN…

Two Days
Spend one day exploring the city of Cuzco, starting with an early jugo (fruit juice) in
Mercado San Pedro, then getting cultural with some of the city’s many museums.
Museo Quijote and the Museo Histórico Regional are highly recommended for
fine art; El Museo de Arte Popular and Museo Irq’i Yachay for folksy art; and the
Museo Inka for preconquest Peruvian artifacts. After lunch, see the most imposing
relics left by the Incas and the Spanish conquistadors, respectively, at Qorikancha and
La Catedral. At 6:45pm check out the nightly music and dance show at the Centro
Qosqo de Arte Nativo. The next day, get up early and board a train to Machu Pic-
chu, Peru’s most renowned ancient site.

Four Days
Follow the Cuzco day of the two-day itinerary. On the second day enjoy a decadent
breakfast and explore Sacsaywamán in the morning. Then bus to ancient, cobbled
Ollantaytambo and use the afternoon to hike through the ruins above town. Take an
early morning train to Aguas Calientes and hop on a bus to Machu Picchu. Wander
through the marvels of Machu Picchu all day; get a guide for the inside story. Return to
Ollantaytambo. There’s still time to take local buses to the spectacular salt pans of Sali-
nas on the way back to Cuzco.

One Week
Follow the Cuzco day of the two-day itinerary. On the second day, follow the walking
tour up through arty San Blas to the impressive fortress of Sacsaywamán. Flag down
local buses to the nearby ruins of Tambomachay, Q’enqo and Pukapukara. On the
third day, start trekking the spectacular, rugged Salkantay trail to Machu Picchu.
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C

Highlights include the Nazca and Moche
galleries of multicolored ceramics, queros
(ceremonial Inca wooden drinking vessels)
and dazzling displays of jewelry made with
intricate gold- and silverwork.
Museo Inka MUSEUM
(Map p198; %23-7380; Tucumán at Ataúd; admis-
sion S10; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat) The
charmingly modest Museo Inka, a steep
block northeast of the Plaza de Armas, is the
S ights
now been fully repaired, restoring the build-
ing to its position among Cuzco’s finest colo-
nial houses. Look for the massive stairway
guarded by sculptures of mythical creatures,
and the corner window column that from
the inside looks like a statue of a bearded
man but from the outside appears to be a
naked woman. The ceilings are ornate, and
the windows give good views straight out
across the Plaza de Armas.
Downstairs in the sunny courtyard, high-

best museum in town for those interested in land Andean weavers demonstrate their
u zco

the Incas. The restored interior is jam packed
with a fine collection of metal- and goldwork,
jewelry, pottery, textiles, mummies, models
and the world’s largest collection of queros.
There’s excellent interpretive information
in Spanish and English-speaking guides are
usually available for a small fee.
The museum building, which rests on
Inca foundations, is also known as the Ad-
miral’s House, after the first owner, Admiral
Francisco Aldrete Maldonado. It was badly
damaged in the 1650 earthquake and rebuilt
by Pedro Peralta de los Ríos, the count of
Laguna, whose crest is above the porch. Fur-
craft and sell traditional textiles directly to
the public.
Museo de Historia Natural MUSEUM
(Map p198; Plaza de Armas; admission S2; h9am-
5pm Mon-Fri) The university-run natural his-
tory museum houses a somewhat motley
collection of stuffed local animals and birds
and over 150 snakes from the Amazon. The
entrance is hidden off the Plaza de Armas, to
the right of Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús.
Iglesia y Monasterio de »
Santa Catalina CHURCH

ther damage from the 1950 earthquake has (Map p198; Arequipa s/n; admission S8; h8:30am-
5:30pm Mon-Sat) This convent houses many

colonial paintings of the escuela cuzqueña,
as well as an impressive collection of vest-
ments and other intricate embroidery. The
baroque side chapel features dramatic friez-
es, and many life-sized (and sometimes star-
tling) models of nuns praying, sewing and
going about their lives. The convent also
houses 13 real, live contemplative nuns.
Templo y Convento de La Merced CHURCH
(Map p198; %23-1821; Mantas 121; admission S6;
h8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat) Cuzco’s third
most important colonial church, La Merced
was destroyed in the 1650 earthquake, but
was quickly rebuilt. To the left of the church,
at the back of a small courtyard, is the en-
trance to the monastery and museum. Paint-
ings based on the life of San Pedro Nolasco,
who founded the order of La Merced in
Barcelona in 1218, hang on the walls of the
beautiful colonial cloister.
The church on the far side of the clois-
ter (h8-11am) contains the tombs of two of
the most famous conquistadors: Diego de
Almagro and Gonzalo Pizarro (brother of
Francisco). Also on the far side of the clois-
ter is a small religious museum that houses
vestments rumored to have belonged to
conquistador and friar Vicente de Valverde.
The museum’s most famous possession is a
priceless solid-gold monstrance, 1.2m high
and covered with rubies, emeralds and no
fewer than 1500 diamonds and 600 pearls.
Ask to see it if the display room is locked.
Museo Histórico Regional MUSEUM
(Map p198; Calle Garcilaso at Heladeros; entry with
boleto turístico; h8am-5pm Tue-Sun) This eclec-
tic museum is housed in the colonial Casa
Garcilaso de la Vega, the house of the Inca-
Spanish chronicler who now lies buried in
the cathedral. The chronologically arranged
collection begins with arrowheads from the
Preceramic Period and continues with ce-
ramics and jewelry of the Wari, Pukara and
Inca cultures.
203
There is also a Nazca mummy, a few Inca
weavings, some small gold ornaments and a
strangely sinister scale model of the Plaza de
Armas. A big, helpful chart in the courtyard
outlines the timeline and characters of the
escuela cuzqueña.
Museo Municipal de Arte
Contemporáneo MUSEUM
(Map p198; Plaza Regocijo; entry with boleto turís-
tico; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) The small collection
of contemporary Andean art on display at
this museum in the municipality building is
really one for the fans. Museo Quijote has a
much better collection, putting a representa-
tive range of Peru’s contemporary artists on
show, with interpretive information that
puts art in context with history.
FIglesia San Francisco CHURCH
(Map p198; Plaza San Francisco; h6:30-8am &
5:30-8pm Mon-Sat, 6:30am-noon & 6:30-8pm
Sun) More austere than many of Cuzco’s
other churches, Iglesia San Francisco dates
from the 16th and 17th centuries and is one
of the few that didn’t need to be completely
reconstructed after the 1650 earthquake. It
has a large collection of colonial religious
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
paintings and a beautifully-carved cedar
choir.
The attached museum (admission S8;
h9am-noon & 3-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)
houses supposedly the largest painting in
South America, which measures 9m by 12m
and shows the family tree of St Francis of
Assisi, the founder of the order. Also of ma-
cabre interest are the two crypts, which are
not totally underground. Inside are human
bones, some of which have been carefully ar-
ranged in designs meant to remind visitors
of the transitory nature of life.
S iugzc
Museo de Arte Religioso MUSEUM
h tos
(Map p198; cnr Hatunrumiyoc & Herrajes; admission
S15 or with boleto religioso; h8-11am & 3-6pm Mon-
Sat) Originally the palace of Inca Roca, the
foundations of this museum were converted
204

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Cuzqueñas (500m) (200m)

A B C D

Around Av El Sol
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C

æ Sights 18 Centro de Textiles Tradicionales

1 Museo del Sitio de Qorikancha............. D1
Peru Treks....................................(see 26)
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
2 Apu's Peru .............................................C2
3 Chaski Ventura...................................... F2
4 Excel Language Center ......................... B1
5 Manu Nature Tours ...............................D3
6 Milla Turismo.........................................D2
7 SATO .....................................................C2
8 Siluet Sauna & Spa................................C1
S ights
del Cuzco............................................ D2
19 Mercado Modelo de Huanchac ............ E2
20 Mercado San Pedro ...............................A1
ï Information
21 Clínica Paredes ..................................... C2
22 DHL ....................................................... D2
23 Dirección Regional de Cultura
Cusco ..................................................F1
24 Oficina de Migraciónes ......................... D2
25 SBS Bookshop ...................................... D2

ÿ Sleeping ï Transport
u zco

9 Hostal San Juan Masías........................D2 26 Bus to Estación Poroy ..........................C2

10 Los Aticos.............................................. C1
11 Mirador Hostal ......................................D2
12 Picol Hostal ........................................... B1
13 Yanantin Guest House ..........................D2
ú Eating
14 Don Estéban and Don Pancho..............D2
15 Mega......................................................C1
ý Entertainment
16 Centro Qosqo de Arte Nativo ...............D2
þ Shopping
17 Centro Artesenal Cuzco........................E3
27 Colectivos to Andahuaylillas,
Piquillacta, Pisac, Tipón &
Urcos.................................................. E2
28 Colectivos to Chinchero,
Ollantaytambo & Urubamba ............. C2
29 Colectivos to Lucre............................... E2
30 Combis to Airport ................................. D2
LAN .............................................. (see 22)
31 Machu Picchu Train Office ................... D2
32 Minibuses to Chinchero,
Ollantaytambo & Urubamba ............. C3
33 Star Perú ............................................... D2
TACA............................................ (see 16)
 205
e
# 0 200 m from a deadly disease and subsequently
0 0.1 miles
dedicated his life to carving this pulpit for

6
66
E F
the church. Supposedly, his skull is nestled
Plazoleta Estadio in the topmost part of the carving. In reality,
Limacpampa Universitario
To Hospital no one is certain of the identity of either the
See Central Cuzco Regional 1 skull or the woodcarver.
Map (p198) Av d (600m)
e la Cult
ura ‚ AVENIDA EL SOL & DOWNHILL
ï
# Museo de Arte Popular MUSEUM
23

Cápac
(Map p198; Basement, Av El Sol 103; admission
with boleto turístico; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 8am-
Av Tu

Huayna
1pm Sun) Winning entries in Cuzco’s annual
llum

# 19
þ Popular Art Competition are displayed in
To Transportes
this engaging museum. This is where the
ayo

Av Garcila Siwar (650m) 2

66
27 29 so
#
#
‚ artisans and artists of San Blas showcase
their talents in styles ranging from high art
Inca
Av Huáscar

3 to cheeky, offering a fascinating, humorous

Manco

take on ordinary life amid the pomp and cir-

#
Manco C
ápac
cumstance of a once-grandiose culture.
Av

Waterfall
Small-scale ceramic models depict
El

Monument Pachacut

66
ec
So

á
# 17 drunken debauchery in the picantería (lo-
l

#
þ
3
cal restaurant), torture in the dentist’s chair,
To Inka Express (500m);
Terminal Terrestre (500m); carnage in the butcher shop, and even a
Turismo Mer (500m); caesarean section. There’s also a display of
‚

El Molino (700m);
Airport (2km) photographs, many by renowned local pho-
E F tographer Martín Chambi, of Cuzco from
the 1900s to the 1950s, including striking
images of the aftermath of the 1950 earth-
into a grand colonial residence and later quake in familiar streets.

Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C

became the archbishop’s palace. The beauti-
ful mansion is now home to a religious-art Qorikancha RUIN
collection notable for the accuracy of its pe- (Map p198; Plazoleta Santo Domingo; admission
riod detail, and especially its insight into the S10; h8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Sun)
interaction of indigenous peoples with the If you visit only one site in Cuzco, make it
Spanish conquistadors. these Inca ruins, which form the base of
There are also some impressive ceilings the colonial church and convent of Santo
and colonial-style tile work that’s not origi- Domingo. Qorikancha was once the richest
nal, having been replaced during the 1940s. temple in the Inca empire; all that remains
today is the masterful stonework.
SAN BLAS In Inca times, Qorikancha (Quechua for
Known as the artists’ neighborhood, San ‘Golden Courtyard’) was literally covered
Blas is nestled on a steep hillside next to with gold. The temple walls were lined with
the center. With classic architecture, its sig-
S ights

some 700 solid-gold sheets, each weighing

u zco

nature blue doors and narrow passageways about 2kg. There were life-sized gold and
without cars, it has become a hip part of silver replicas of corn, which were ceremo-
town. As a result, it is full of restaurants, wa- nially ‘planted’ in agricultural rituals. Also
tering holes and shops. reported were solid-gold treasures such as
Iglesia de San Blas CHURCH altars, llamas and babies, as well as a rep-
(Map p198; Plaza San Blas; admission S15 or with lica of the sun, which was lost. But within
boleto religioso; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 2-6pm Sun) months of the arrival of the first conquis-
This simple adobe church is comparatively tadors, this incredible wealth had all been
small, but you can’t help but be awed by the looted and melted down.
baroque, gold-leaf principal altar. The exqui- Various other religious rites took place
sitely carved pulpit, made from a single tree in the temple. It is said that the mummi-
trunk, has been called the finest example of fied bodies of several previous incas (kings)
colonial wood carving in the Americas. were kept here, brought out into the sun-
Legend claims that its creator was an in- light each day and offered food and drink,
digenous man who miraculously recovered which was then ritually burnt. Qorikancha
206
COOL FOR KIDS: THE
CHIQUITY CLUB
This excellent children’s activity
center (Map p198; %23-3344; www.
chiquityclubcusco.com; Marquez 259; child
with parents S15; h9am-8pm Thu-Tue; W)
offers a great way for young families
to decompress. The brainchild of a
bilingual Waldorf-trained teacher, this
multifaceted space includes covered
play areas, a climbing wall and sandbox
of ‘fossils.’ There’s also a library with
English language books, an art room,
a dress-up theatre and a rockin’ dark
mini-discoteca, pulsing strobes and fun
tunes. The ideal age for visitors is one
to nine years old. It also offers baby­
sitting services and activity kits to go.
was also an observatory from which high
priests monitored celestial activities. Most of
this is left to the imagination of the modern
visitor, but the remaining stonework ranks
with the finest Inca architecture in Peru. A
curved, perfectly fitted 6m-high wall can be
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
seen from both inside and outside the site.
This wall has withstood all of the violent
earthquakes that leveled most of Cuzco’s co-
lonial buildings.
Once inside the site, the visitor enters a
courtyard. The octagonal font in the mid-
dle was originally covered with 55kg of solid
gold. Inca chambers lie to either side of the
courtyard. The largest, to the right, were
said to be temples to the moon and the stars,
and were covered with sheets of solid silver.
The walls are perfectly tapered upward and,
with their niches and doorways, are excel-
Activities
lent examples of Inca trapezoidal architec-
u zco
ture. The fitting of the individual blocks is
so precise that in some places you can’t tell
where one block ends and the next begins.
Opposite these chambers, on the other
side of the courtyard, are smaller temples
dedicated to thunder and the rainbow.
Three holes have been carved through the
walls of this section to the street outside,
which scholars think were drains, either
for sacrificial chicha (fermented corn beer),
blood or, more mundanely, rainwater. Alter-
natively, they may have been speaking tubes
connecting the inner temple with the out-
side. Another feature of this side of the com-
plex is the floor in front of the chambers: it
dates from Inca times and is carefully cob-
bled with pebbles.
The temple was built in the mid-15th
century during the reign of the 10th inca,
Túpac Yupanqui. After the conquest, Fran-
cisco Pizarro gave it to his brother Juan, but
he was not able to enjoy it for long – Juan
died in the battle at Sacsaywamán in 1536.
In his will, he bequeathed Qorikancha to the
Dominicans, in whose possession it has re-
mained ever since. Today’s site is a bizarre
combination of Inca and colonial architec-
ture, topped with a roof of glass and metal.
Colonial paintings around the outside of
the courtyard depict the life of St Dominic,
which contain several representations of
dogs holding torches in their jaws. These are
God’s guard dogs (dominicanus in Latin),
hence the name of this religious order.
Iglesia de Santo Domingo CHURCH
The church of Santo Domingo is next door
to Qorikancha. Less baroque and ornate
than many of Cuzco’s churches, it is nota-
ble for its charming paintings of archangels
depicted as Andean children in jeans and
T-shirts. Opening hours are erratic.
Museo del Sitio de Qorikancha MUSEUM
(Map p204; Av El Son s/n; admission with boleto
turístico; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1pm Sun)
There are sundry moth-bitten archaeologi-
cal displays interpreting Inca and pre-Inca
cultures at this small, mangy, underground
archaeological museum, which is accessed
off Av El Sol.
Museo Quijote MUSEUM
(Map p198; www.museoelquijote.com; Galería
Banco la Nacion, Calle Almagro s/n; entry S10 or
with boleto religioso; h9am-6pm Mom-Fri, 9am-
1pm Sun) In a new location housed inside a
bank, this privately owned museum of con-
temporary art houses a diverse, thoughtful
collection of painting and sculpture ranging
from the folksy to the macabre. There’s good
interpretive information about 20th-century
Peruvian art history, some of it translated
into English.
2 Activities
Scores of outdoor outfitters in Cuzco offer
trekking, rafting and mountain-biking ad-
ventures, as well as mountaineering, horse-
back riding and paragliding. Price wars can
lead to bad feelings among locals, with un-
derpaid guides and overcrowded vehicles.
The cheaper tours are liable to be the most

crowded, multilingual affairs. Due to tax ex-
emptions for new agencies, cheaper outfits
also regularly change names and offices, so
ask other foreign tourists for the most recent
recommendations.
No company can ever be 100% recom-
mended, but those listed in the following
sections are reputable outfits that have
received mostly positive feedback from
readers.
Trekking
The department of Cuzco is a hiker’s para-
dise. Ecosystems range from rainforest to
high alpine environments in these enor-
mous mountain ranges. Trekkers may come
upon isolated villages and ruins lost in the
undergrowth. Since altitudes vary widely, it
is essential to properly acclimatize before
undertaking any trek.
Of course, most come to hike the famed
Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. Be aware that it’s
not the only ‘Inca trail.’ What savvy tourism
officials and tour operators have christened
the Inca Trail is just one of dozens of foot-
paths that the Incas built to reach Machu
Picchu, out of thousands that crisscrossed
the Inca empire. Some of these overland
routes are still being dug out of the jungle
by archaeologists. Many more have been de-
veloped for tourism, and an ever-increasing
number of trekkers are choosing them.
For more detailed hiking information,
purchase an Alternative Inca Trails Infor-
mation Packet from the South American
Explorers Club. Closer to Cuzco, imaginative
operators have developed multiday Sacred
Valley trekking itineraries that go well off
the beaten track to little-visited villages and
ruins.
For full coverage of the Inca Trail and
alternative trekking routes to Machu Pic-
chu, see p38. Other recommended treks to
archaeological sites include Choquequirau
(p265) and Vilcabamba (263).
Other highly recommended treks include
Lares (p213) and Ausangate (p264).
The following companies are Cuzco-based
trekking specialists often recommended by
readers. For international outfitters and
those offering Peru-wide treks, see p36.
Andina Travel HIKING
(Map p198; %25-1892; www.andinatravel.com; Pla-
zoleta Santa Catalina 219)
Apu’s Peru HIKING
(Map p204; %23-3691; www.apus-peru.com; Cui-
chipunco 366)
207
Eco Trek Peru HIKING
(Map p198; %24-7286; www.ecotrekperu.com;
Atocsaycuchi 599)
X-treme Tourbulencia HIKING
(Map p198; %22-5872; www.x-tremetourbulencia.
com; Plateros 358)
Peru Treks HIKING
(Map p204; %22-2722; www.perutreks.com; Av
Pardo 540)
Peruvian Highland Trek HIKING
(Map p198; %24-2480; www.peruvianhighlandtrek.
com; Calle del Medio 139)
Quechua’s Expeditions HIKING
(Map p198; %23-7994; www.quechuasexpeditions.
com; Suecia 344)
WHEN TO GO
The best time to go trekking in the Andes or
the Amazon is during the colder dry season,
which lasts roughly from May until Septem-
ber. Make reservations for treks during high
seasons several months in advance, and up
to a year in advance for the Inca Trail. In the
wettest months of January to March, trails
have a tendency to turn into muddy slogs,
and views disappear under a blanket of
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
clouds. Note that the Inca Trail is completely
closed during the month of February for its
annual cleanup. The high jungle Vilcabam-
ba trek is not recommended outside June to
August due to heavy rainfall. Temperatures
can drop below freezing year-round on all
the other, higher-altitude treks, and it oc-
casionally rains even during the dry season.
WHAT TO BRING
Modern internal-framed backpacks, tents,
sleeping bags and stoves can all be rented in
various places in Calle Plateros from around
S15 to S20 per item per day. Check all equip-
Activities
ment carefully before you agree to rent it, as
u zco
some is pretty shoddy, and most isn’t mod-
ern or lightweight.
Also take water-purification tablets or a
purification system from home. Once you’re
trekking, there is usually nowhere to buy
food, and the small villages where treks be-
gin have very limited supplies, so shop in
advance in Cuzco. If you’re on a guided trek,
take a stash of cash for tipping the guide and
the arrieros (mule drivers). About US$10
per day per trekker is the minimum decent
tip to a guide; a similar amount to divide be-
tween arrieros is appropriate.
For more tips on appropriate trekking
gear, see p38.
208
River Running
Rafting isn’t regulated in Peru – literally
anyone can start a rafting company. On
top of this, aggressive bargaining has led to
lax safety by many cheaper rafting opera-
tors. The degree of risk cannot be stressed
enough: there are deaths every year. Raft-
ing companies that take advance bookings
online are generally more safety conscious
(and more expensive) than those just operat-
ing out of storefronts in Cuzco.
When choosing an outfitter, it’s wise to
ask about safety gear and guide training, ask
about the quality of the equipment used (ie
how old are the flotation devices) and check
other traveler comments. Be wary of new
agencies without a known track record.
The following rafting companies have the
best reputations for safety:
Amazonas Explorer BOATING
(%25-2846; www.amazonas-explorer.com; Av Col-
lasuyu 910, Miravalle) A professional interna-
tional operator with top-quality equipment
and guides, offering rafting trips on the Ríos
Apurimac and Tambopata.
Apumayo BOATING
(Map p198; %24-6018; www.apumayo.com; Jirón
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
Ricardo Palma Ñ-11, Urb. Santa Monica) Another
professional outfitter that takes advance
international bookings for Río Tambopata
trips. Also equipped to take travelers with
disabilities.
Mayuc BOATING
(Map p198; %24-2824; www.mayuc.com; Portal
Confiturías 211) This monster operator, very
popular with bargain hunters, dwarfs the
competition.
River Explorers BOATING
(%26-0926; www.riverexplorers.com; Urb. Kennedy
Activities
A, B-15) Runs all sorts of sections, including
u zco
trips of up to six days on Río Apurímac.
RÍO URUBAMBA
Rafting the Río Urubamba through the Sa-
cred Valley could offer the best rafting day
trip in South America, but Cuzco and all
the villages along its course dispose of raw
sewage in the river, making for a smelly and
polluted trip. Seriously – close your mouth
if you fall in.
Despite its unsavory aspects, the Ollan-
taytambo to Chilca (class II to III) section
is surprisingly popular, offering 1½ hours of
gentle rafting with only two rapids of note.
Huarán and Huambutio to Pisac are other
pollution-affected sections.
There are a variety of cleaner sections
south of Cuzco on the upper Urubamba
(also known as the Vilcanota), including the
popular Chuquicahuana run (class III to
IV+; class V+ in the rainy season). Another
less-frenetic section is the fun and scenic
Cusipata to Quiquihana (mainly class II to
III). In the rainy season, these two sections
are often combined. Closer to Cuzco, Pampa
to Huambutio (class I to II) is a beautiful
section, ideal for small children (three years
and over) as an introduction to rafting.
RÍO SANTA TERESA
Río Santa Teresa offers spectacular rafting
in the gorge between the towns of Santa Ter-
esa and Santa María, and downstream as far
as Quillabamba. One word of warning: the
section from Cocalmayo Hot Springs to San-
ta María consists of almost nonstop class IV
to V rapids in a deep, inaccessible canyon. It
should only be run with highly reputable op-
erators, such as local experts Cola de Mono
(p260). Be very aware, if considering a trip
here, that guiding this section safely is be-
yond the powers of inexperienced (cheaper)
rafting guides. This is not the place to econo-
mize. It’s not a bad idea to raft another sec-
tion in the area with your chosen operator
before even considering it.
OTHER RIVERS
Run from May to November, the Río Apurí-
mac offers three- to 10-day trips through
deep gorges and protected rainforest. Apurí-
mac features exhilarating rapids (classes IV
and V) and wild, remote scenery with deep
gorges. Sightings of condors and even pu-
mas have been recorded. Four-day trips are
the most relaxed and avoid the busier camp-
sites, although three-day trips are more
commonly offered. Camping is on sandy
beaches, which have become increasingly
overused. Sand flies can be a nuisance. Make
sure your outfitter cleans up the campsite
and practices a leave-no-trace ethic.
An even wilder expedition, the 10- to
12-day trip along the demanding Río Tam-
bopata can only be run from May to Oc-
tober. The trip starts in the Andes, north
of Lake Titicaca, and descends through
the heart of the Parque Nacional Bahuaje-
Sonene deep in the Amazon jungle. Just get-
ting to the put-in from Cuzco is a two-day
drive. The first days on the river are full of
technically demanding rapids (classes III
and IV) in wild Andean scenery, and the trip
finishes with a couple of gentle floating days

in the rainforest. Tapirs, capybara, caiman,
giant otters and jaguars have all been seen
by keen-eyed boaters.
Rivers further from Cuzco are days away
from help in the event of illness or accident.
It’s essential to book a top-notch outfitter
employing highly experienced rafting guides
with first aid certification and knowledge of
swift-water rescue techniques.
Mountain Biking
Mountain-biking tours are a growing indus-
try in Cuzco, and the local terrain is superb.
Rental bikes are poor quality and it is most
common to find rígida (single suspension)
models, which can make for bone-chattering
downhills. Good new or second-hand bikes
are not easy to buy in Cuzco either. If you’re
a serious mountain biker, consider bring-
ing your own bike from home. Selling it in
Cuzco is eminently viable.
If you’re an experienced rider, some awe-
some rides are quickly and easily accessi-
ble by public transport. Take the Pisac bus
(stash your bike on top) and ask to be let off
at Abra de Ccorao. From here, you can turn
right and make your way back to Cuzco via
a series of cart tracks and single track; half-
way down is a jump park constructed by lo-
cal aficionados. This section has many varia-
tions and is known as Yuncaypata. Eventu-
ally, whichever way you go, you’ll end up in
Cuzco’s southern suburbs, from where you
can easily flag down a taxi to get you home.
If you head off the other side of the pass,
to the left of the road, you’ll find fast-flowing
single track through a narrow valley, which
makes it difficult to get lost. It brings you
out on the highway in Ccorao. From here,
follow the road through a flat section then a
series of bends. Just as the valley widens out,
turn left past a farmhouse steeply downhill
to your left and into challenging single track
through a narrow valley, including a hairy
river crossing and some tricky, steep, rocky,
loose descents at the end, reaching the vil-
lage of Taray. From here it’s a 10-minute ride
along the river to Pisac, where you can catch
a bus back to Cuzco.
Many longer trips are possible, but a pro-
fessionally qualified guide and a support
vehicle are necessary. The partly paved road
down from Abra Málaga to Santa María,
though not at all technical, is a must for any
cyclist. It is part of the Inca Jungle Trail (see
p38), offered by many Cuzco operators. Mar-
as to Salinas is a great little mission. The
Lares Valley offers challenging single track,
209
which can be accessed from Cuzco in a long
day. If heading to Manu in the Amazon Ba-
sin, you can break up the long bus journey
by biking from Tres Cruces to La Unión –
a beautiful, breathtaking downhill ride – or
you could go all the way down by bike. The
outfitters of Manu trips can arrange bicycle
rental and guides. The descent to the Río
Apurímac makes a great burn, as does the
journey to Río Tambopata, which boasts a
descent of 3500m in five hours. A few bikers
attempt the 500km-plus trip all the way to
Puerto Maldonado, a great hot and sweaty
challenge.
The following bike operators are
recommended:
Amazonas Explorer ADVENTURE TOUR
(%25-2846; www.amazonas-explorer.com) Offers
excellent two- to 10-day mountain-biking
adventures; great for families, with kids’
bikes available.
Cusco Aventuras ADVENTURE TOUR
(%984-13-7403; cuscoaventura@hotmail.com) Lo-
cal legend of loconess Luchín will give you
the ride of your life.
Party Bike ADVENTURE TOUR
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
(Map p198; %24-0399; www.partybiketravel.com;
Carmen Alto 246) Traveler recommended, with
downhills, tours to the valley and through
Cusco.
Gravity Peru ADVENTURE TOUR
(%22-8032; www.gravityperu.com; Santa Catalina
Ancha 398) Allied with well-known Gravity
Bolivia, this professionally run operator is
the only one offering double-suspension
bikes for day trips. Highly recommended.
Horseback Riding
Most agencies can arrange a morning or
Activities
afternoon’s riding. Alternatively, you can
u zco
walk to Sacsaywamán, where many ranches
are located, and negotiate your own terms.
Choose carefully, however, as horses may be
in a sorry state.
Select agencies will offer multiday trips to
the area around Limatambo, and there are
some first-rate ranches with highly trained,
high-stepping thoroughbred Peruvian paso
horses in Urubamba (see p238).
Bird-Watching
Serious birders should definitely get a hold of
Birds of the High Andes, by Jon Fjeldså and
Niels Krabbe. One of the best birding trips is
from Ollantaytambo to Santa Teresa or Quil-
labamba, over Abra Málaga. This provides a
210
fine cross section of habitats from 4600m to
below 1000m. Englishman Barry Walker is
a self-confessed ‘birding bum’ and the best
resident ornithologist to give serious birders
plenty of enthusiastic advice. He has written
a field guide, The Birds of Machu Picchu, and
runs tour agency Birding in Peru (%22-5990;
www.birding-in-peru.com) with bird-watching
trips throughout Peru, Bolivia and Chile.
O ther Activities
For a post-trek splurge, a number of spas
offer massage services, including the highly
professional Siluet Sauna & Spa (Map p204;
%23-1504; Quera 253; h10am-10pm) and the lux-
urious Samana Spa (Map p198; %23-3721; www.
samana-spa.com; Tecsecocha 536; h10am-7pm
Mon-Sat). Beware of cheap massages touted
in the street; most practitioners lack formal
training and there are reports of massages
getting much more intimate than expected.
Sacred Valley Via Ferrata ADVENTURE SPORTS
(%984-11-2732; www.naturavive.com; per person
S160) ‘Iron Way’ in Italian, this climb fea-
tures a series of ladders, holds and bridges
built into a sheer rock face. First developed
in the Italian Alps in WWII, it’s a way for
reasonably fit non-rock climbers to have
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C u
some adrenaline-pumping fun. It was con-
structed and is operated by rock-climbing
and high-mountain professionals. In a stun-
ning setting in the Sacred Valley, it features
a 300m vertical ascent, a heart-hammering
hanging bridge 200m above the valley floor
and a 100m rappel. There is also a zip line
(S160) accessed by a 40-minute hike. Each
activity takes three to four hours and the
price includes pickup and drop-off in Cuzco
or Urubamba, climbing and lunch.
Action Valley ADVENTURE SPORTS
(Map p198; %24-0835; www.actionvalley.com; San-
ourses
ta Teresa 325; h9am-5pm Sun-Fri, closed mid-Jan
zco
to mid-Feb) Adventure park extraordinaire,
this place is a terror for acrophobes and a
blast for kids and juvenile adults. Offerings
include paintball (S75), a 10-meter climbing
wall (S36), a 122m bungee jump (S230) and
a bungee slingshot (S230). It’s also possible
to go paragliding (S315) from the mirador of
Racchi. The park is 11km outside Cuzco on
the road to Poroy.
C Courses
Cuzco is one of the best places in South
America to study Spanish. Shop around –
competition is fierce and students benefit
with free cultural and social activities. Salsa
lessons and cooking nights are more or less
ubiquitous.
The standard deal is 20 hours of classes
per week, either individual or in groups of
up to four people. Most schools will also let
you pay by the hour or study more or less
intensively. Rates usually run at around S16
per hour for group lessons and S23 per hour
for private lessons.
Visit your school on a Friday to get tested
and assigned to a group for a Monday start,
or show up any time to start individual les-
sons. All schools can arrange family home-
stays and volunteer opportunities.
Amigos LANGUAGE COURSE
(Map p198; %24-2292; www.spanishcusco.com;
Zaguan del Cielo B-23) A long-established
nonprofit school with an admirable public-
service record.
Excel Language Center LANGUAGE COURSE
(Map p204; %23-5298; www.excel-spanishlan
guageprograms-peru.org; Cruz Verde 336) Highly
recommended for its professionalism.
Fairplay LANGUAGE COURSE
(Map p198; %984-78-9252; www.fairplay-peru.org;
Choquechaca 188) A unique nonprofit NGO,
Fairplay trains Peruvian single mothers to
provide Spanish lessons and homestays.
Students pay two-thirds of their class fees
directly to their teachers. Individual classes
only, priced according to the teacher’s level
of experience.
Proyecto Peru LANGUAGE COURSE
(Map p198; %24-0278, 984-68-3016; http://proyec
toperucentre.org; Calle Seite Cuartones 290) Also
offers Quechua and business or medical
Spanish. In a new downtown location.
San Blas Spanish School LANGUAGE COURSE
(Map p198; %24-7898; www.spanishschoolperu.
com; Carmen Bajo 224) Students enjoy the in-
formal teaching here, in tune with the
school’s location in the heart of bohemian
San Blas.
T Tours & Guides
There are hundreds of registered travel
agencies in Cuzco, but things change quick-
ly, so ask other travelers for recommenda-
tions. Be aware that many of the small travel
agencies clustered around Procuradores and
Plateros earn commissions selling trips run
by other outfitters, and this can lead to or-
ganizational mix-ups. If the travel agency
 START PLAZA DE 21 1

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Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y Tours

Walking Tour
Cuzco
Start from the middle of the 1 Plaza de
Armas, one of the most stunning public
spaces in South America. Stroll up Calle
del Medio and head southwest across 2 Pla-
za Regocijo. On your left, a beautiful 3 build-
ing, once a hotel, is now home to restaurants
and chic boutiques. Head up Calle Garcilaso,
named for the Inca chronicler Garcilaso de la
Vega, whose childhood home now houses the
4 Museo Histórico Regional. It sits amidst
opposite the a Palacio de Justicia, a big
white building with a pair of lawn-mowing
llamas in the back garden. Head up Maruri
and take a left into b Loreto, a walkway
with Inca walls on both sides. The west wall
belongs to Amaruqancha (Courtyard of the
Serpents). The east wall is one of the best
and oldest in Cuzco, belonging to the Acl-
lahuasi (House of the Chosen Women). Post
conquest, it became part of the c closed
C u zco & G uides

colonial mansions, 5 Hotel los Marqueses is convent of Santa Catalina.

particularly stunning. Loreto returns you to the Plaza de Armas.
On Sundays, Quechua-speaking campes- Turn right up Triunfo (signposted as Suntur-
inos (country folk) meet in 6 Plaza San wasi) and across Palacio into Hatunrumiyoc,
Francisco. Drop in to the 7 church and another alley named after the d 12-sided
museum of San Francisco if you’re so stone. This belongs to a wall of the palace of
inclined. Past the colonial archway is the the sixth inca, Inca Roca, which now houses
8 church and convent of Santa Clara. If the e Museo de Arte Religioso.
it’s open, peek inside at the mirrors, used in Hatunrumiyoc ends at Choquechaca.
colonial times to entice curious indigenous From here it’s only a short puff up to
people into the church for worship. f Plaza San Blas, Cuzco’s bohemian HQ.
Just beyond, the bustle of 9 Mercado Head left along g Tandapata for the classic
San Pedro spills out onto the pavement. Fuel cobblestone experience. Inca irrigation chan-
up at one of the many stalls, then step out nels run down ancient stairways, and rock
onto Calle Nueva and follow to Avenida El Sol carvings adorn walls and stones in the path.
If you wish, forge uphill to Sacsaywamán.
21 2
also sells ponchos, changes money and has
an internet cabin in the corner, chances are
it’s not operating your tour.
Standard tours often travel in large
groups and sometimes they are rushed.
Classic options include a half-day tour of the
city and/or nearby ruins, a half-day trip to
the Sunday markets at Pisac or Chinchero
and a full-day tour of the Sacred Valley (eg
Pisac, Ollantaytambo and Chinchero). You
can also consider doing these on your own
and at your own pace with a licensed taxi
driver, especially if you have a group. They
can also be done via public transport.
Agents also offer expensive Machu Pic-
chu tours that include transport, admission
tickets to the archaeological site, an English-
speaking guide and lunch. Since you only get
to spend a few hours at the ruins, it’s more
enjoyable (not to mention much cheaper) to
DIY. You can hire a guide at Machu Picchu
or in advance, from Cuzco.
The following tour agencies are recom-
mended:
Andina Travel ADVENTURE TOUR
(Map p198; %25-1892; www.andinatravel.com; Pla-
zoleta Santa Catalina 219) Adventure tour op-
erator with classic tours and treks.
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
Antipode ADVENTURE TOUR
(Map p198; %970-440-448; www.antipode-travel.
com; Choquechaca 229) An attentive, French-
run outfit offering classic tours, treks and
shorter local adventure outings.
SChaski Ventura CULTURAL TOUR
(Map p204; %23-3952; www.chaskiventura.com;
Manco Cápac 517) Pioneer of alternative and
community tourism, with quality itineraries
and guides, also involved in community de-
velopment. Offers package trips to the jun-
Tours
gle, overnights in Sacred Valley communi-
u zco & G uides
ties and Machu Picchu. French, English and
Spanish spoken.
Fertur TOUR
(Map p198; %22-1304; www.fertur-travel.com; San
Agustín 317) Local office of long-established,
very reliable agency for flights and all con-
ventional tours.
Milla Turismo TOUR
(Map p204; %23-1710; www.millaturismo.com; Av
Pardo 800) Reputable conventional tour op-
erator with travel agency services and rec-
ommended private tours with knowledge-
able drivers.
SRespons CULTURAL TOUR
(Map p198; %23-3903; www.respons.org; Cho-
quechaca 216-C, staircase) High-end sustain-
able tour operator working with community
development in the Sacred Valley. Offers a
tour of a weaving community near Pisac and
chocolate and coffee tours on the Inca jun-
gle trail (US$370 for three days). Available
in English, Spanish and French.
SAS Travel TOUR
(Map p198; %24-9194; www.sastravelperu.com;
Calle Garcilaso 270) A direct operator with lo-
cal owners. Offers package tours to Machu
Picchu, Inca Trail treks, jungle travel and
Cusco tours.
SATO TOUR
(Map p204; South American Travels Online %22-1304;
www.southamericatravelsonline.com; Matara 437,
interior-G) A reputable European agency work-
ing with local operators for trekking, hiking
and rafting, also a last-minute specialist.
STurismo Caith CULTURAL TOUR
(%23-3595; www.caith.org; Centro Yanapanakusun,
Urb Ucchullo Alto, N4, Pasaje Santo Toribio) Leader
in community tourism as well as standard
single and multiday trips. Participants can
help with educational projects.
The following operators also go into the jun-
gle. For more options, see p454.
Manu Expeditions ADVENTURE TOUR
(off Map p204; %22-5990, 22-4235; www.manu
expeditions.com; Clorinda Matto de Turner 330,
Urb Magisterial) Destinations include Manu
Biosphere Reserve and horseback riding
around Sacred Valley.
Manu Nature Tours ADVENTURE TOUR
(Map p204; %25 2721; www.manuperu.com; Pardo
1046) Reputable outfitter with its own rain-
forest lodges in Manu.
Guides
The following guides for Machu Picchu and
around Cuzco are recommended:
Asociación de Guías »
Oficiales de Turismo GUIDED TOUR
(Map p198; Agotur; %24-9758; www.agoturcusco.
org.pe; Heladeros 157) A good way to contact
guides.
Adam Weintraub GUIDED TOUR
(%962-859-000; www.photoexperience.net) A na-
tive of Seattle, Adam has many years’ expe-
rience in Peru and guides custom high-end
 21 3

YOUR SACRED VISION FOR SALE

Shamanic ceremonies may be native to the Amazon, but they have become a hot com-
modity in Cuzco and the Sacred Valley. The psychedelic properties of the San Pedro and
ayahuasca plants have earned them fame and piqued public curiosity and the interest
of psychonauts who travel in search of these experiences. Extremely powerful drugs,
they can be highly toxic in the wrong hands.
Yet they are ubiquitous. In Cuzco, San Pedro is offered alongside massages by street
hawkers; ayahuasca ceremonies are advertised in hostels. Of course, travelers can
decide what is right and wrong for them. It’s important to note that these are not recrea-
tional drugs. A real shaman knows the long list of dos and don’ts for practitioners, and
they screen participants. Ceremonies can require multiple days for preparation, fasting
and extended rituals.
It is hard not to be skeptical about a store-bought spiritual experience. Many
cuzqueños believe that it’s a mockery to make these sacred ceremonies into money-
makers. Still, participating in a ‘guided ceremony’ can be a lot safer than scarfing down
a powerful narcotic by yourself, as long as you trust the practitioners (in some cases,
female guests have been attacked while under the influence). Avoid casual opportuni-
ties. Serious operations often use a medical questionnaire. It’s also advisable to look
into ceremonies and ask previous participants about their experience before signing up.
A good place to learn more about rituals of ayahuasca and San Pedro is the new Mu-
seo de Plantas Sagradas, Mágicas y Medicinales in Cuzco.

photography tours and workshops over all Crucifix Vigil FESTIVAL

of Peru, as well as shorter trips out of Cuzco. On May 2 to 3, a Crucifix Vigil is held on all
hillsides with crosses atop them.
Alain Machaca Cruz GUIDED TOUR

Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C

(%984-056-635, 973-220-893; alain_313@hotmail.
com) Recommended for interesting alterna-
tive city tours where you can make chicha
or see cuy farms, and hikes and visits to sur-
rounding communities. Quechua and Eng-
lish spoken.
Leo Garcia GUIDED TOUR
(%984-70-2933, 984-75-4022; leogacia@hotmail.
com) Personable, passionate and supremely
knowledgeable about all things Inca.
Raul Castelo GUIDED TOUR
(%24-3234, 984-31-6345; raulcastelo10@hotmail.
Q’oyoriti FESTIVAL
Less well-known than the spectacular Inti
Raymi are the more traditional Andean rites
of this festival (see the boxed text, p266),
which is held at the foot of Ausangate the
Tuesday before Corpus Christi, in late May
or early June.
Corpus Christi RELIGIOUS
Held on the ninth Thursday after Easter,
Corpus Christi usually occurs in early June
and features fantastic religious processions
and celebrations in the cathedral.
F estivals

Inti Raymi
u zco

com) Has his own transport and specializes FESTIVAL

in customized tours to Sacred Valley, Machu
Picchu, Cuzco, Cuzco–Puno and Lares.
z Festivals & Events
Cuzco’s most important festival, the ‘Fes-
tival of the Sun’ is held on June 24. It at-
tracts tourists from all over Peru and the
world, and the whole city celebrates in the
& E vents

Cuzco and the surrounding highlands cel-
ebrate many lively fiestas and holidays. In
addition to national holidays (p534), the fol-
lowing are the most crowded times, when
you should book all accommodations well
in advance:
streets. The festival culminates in a re-en-
actment of the Inca winter-solstice festival
at Sacsaywamán. Despite its commercializa-
tion, it’s still worth seeing the street dances
and parades, as well as the pageantry at
Sacsaywamán.

El Señor de los Temblores FESTIVAL Santuranticuy Artisan Crafts Fair FESTIVAL

(The Lord of the Earthquakes) This procession on A crafts fair is held in the Plaza de Armas on
the Monday before Easter dates to the earth- December 24 (Christmas Eve).
quake of 1650.
21 4
4 Sleeping
Cuzco has hundreds of hotels of all types,
and just about the only thing they have in
common is that they charge some of the
highest room rates in Peru. Cuzco fills to
bursting between June and August, espe-
cially during the 10 days before Inti Raymi
on June 24 and during Fiestas Patrias (Inde-
pendence Days) on July 28 and 29. Book in
advance for these dates.
Prices are market driven and vary dra-
matically according to the season and
demand. Rates quoted here are for high
season.
Though the Plaza de Armas is the most
central area, you won’t find any bargains
there, and accommodations along Av El Sol
tend to be bland, expensive and set up for
tour groups. As Cuzco is such a compact
city, it’s just as convenient to stay in another
neighborhood nearby. Hilly San Blas has the
best views and is deservedly popular. There
are also many options west of the Plaza de
Armas around Plaza Regocijo, in the com-
mercial area towards the Mercado Central,
and downhill from the center in the streets
northeast of Av El Sol.
Many of Cuzco’s guesthouses and hotels
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
are located in charming colonial buildings
with interior courtyards, which can echo
resoundingly with noise from other guests
or the street outside. Many places that offer
breakfast start serving as early as 5am to ac-
commodate Inca Trail trekkers and Machu
Picchu day-trippers. For this reason, early
check-ins and check-outs are the rule.
With advance notice, most midrange
and top-end places will pick you up for free
at the airport, the train station or the bus
terminal.
Inquire about hot water for showers
S luezc
before committing yourself to a hotel. It’s
often sporadic, even in midrange accom-
e poi n g
modations, and there’s nothing worse after
a multiday trek than a lukewarm shower! In
some hotels the hot water is more reliable
on some floors than others. It helps to avoid
showering at peak times of day, and it’s al-
ways worth telling reception if you’re hav-
ing trouble – they may simply need to flick a
switch or hook up a new gas canister.
All places listed claim to offer 24-hour
hot-water showers, and unless otherwise
noted, midrange and above places include
cable TV and internet access. The top ho-
tels all feature rooms with heating and tele­
phone; exceptions are noted in the review.
All top-end and some midrange hotels have
oxygen tanks available, at a price, for alti-
tude sufferers.
Cuzco’s swanky top-end hotels are usually
booked solid during high season. Reserving
through a travel agency or via the hotel’s
website may result in better rates.
CENTRAL CUZCO
Many of the side streets that climb north-
west away from the Plaza towards Sacsay-
wamán (especially Tigre, Tecsecocha, Suecia,
Kiskapata, Resbalosa and 7 Culebras) are
bursting with cheap crash pads. High-end
hotels on the plaza are often overpriced.
oEcopackers HOSTEL $
(Map p198; %23-1800; www.ecopackersperu.com;
Santa Teresa 375; dm S25-41, d/ste S120/135; iW)
Thought has been put into this big back-
packer haven that’s a stone’s throw from
Plaza Regocijo. One of the all-inclusives
(with bar, pool room and sunbathing), it ups
the ante by being clean, friendly and service-
minded. There’s lovely wicker lounges in
the courtyard and the sturdy beds are extra-
long. There’s also 24-hour security.
oInkaterra La Casona BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(Map p198; %23-5873; www.lacasona.info; Atocsay-
cuchi 616; suites incl breakfast from US$410; iW)
Hitting the perfect balance of cozy and high
style, this renovated grand colonial in tiny
Plazoleta Nazarenas is simply debonair. Rus-
tic meets majestic with original features like
oversized carved doors, rough-hewn beams
and stone fireplaces are enhanced with radi-
ant floors, glittering candelabras, plush di-
vans and gorgeous Andean textiles.
Even though the telly is tucked away, tech
isn’t far with laptop loans and iPod docks.
Service is impeccable and highly personal.
Niños Hotel HOTEL $$
(%23-1424, 25-4611; www.ninoshotel.com; Meloc
442; s/d without bathroom US$25/50, d/tr with
bathroom US$55/79; iW) Long beloved and
highly recommended, these hotels are run
by a Dutch-founded nonprofit foundation
that serves underprivileged children in
Cuzco. Both are in rambling colonials with
sunny courtyards. Refurbished rooms are
bordered with bright trim and feature plaid
throws and portable heaters. In the coldest
months there’s hot water bottles to tuck in
bed.
The public cafeteria features homemade
cakes and breads as well as box lunches.

Breakfast is not included. The other branch
is at Fierro 476.
La Lune BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(Map p198; %24-0543; www.onesuitehotelcusco.
com; San Agustín 275; d incl breakfast US$450-550;
iW) Christened the anti-hotel, it’s hard to
get more exclusive than this: a two-suite ho-
tel with 24-hour concierge service from its
French owner, Artur. He wants you to relax.
So stays also include drinks from a full bar
and a professional massage under a stained
glass window. So far, it has been a hit with
visiting celebrities and diplomats.
Suites are luxuriant, with tasteful mod-
ern decor, organic Cacharel bedding and an
optional bed for Fido. Each suite takes two
guests maximum, the pricier option comes
with Jacuzzi (filled with rose petals at your
bidding).
Casa Cartagena BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(Map p198; %in Lima 01-242-3147; www.casacarta
gena.com; Pumacurco 336; suites from US$450;
iWs) Fusing modern with colonial, this
Italian-owned boutique hotel is dripping
in style. Its sixteen suites feature walls with
oversized stripes, king-sized beds, iPod
docks, bouquets of long-stemmed roses and
enormous bathtubs lit by candles. Manage-
ment boasts that both Neruda and Che Gue-
vara bedded down in this historic mansion,
actually a modest pension half a century
ago: no word on how their politics fit in now.
There’s a lovely onsite spa and room service
is free.
Hotel Arqueólogo BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(Map p198; %23-2569; www.hotelarqueologo.
com; Pumacurco 408; d/superior incl breakfast
S384/451; iW) Feeling luxurious but also
lived-in, this antique French-owned guest-
house gives a real feel for Cuzco, down to
the Inca stonework. Tasteful rooms with
original murals and tapestries overlook a
vast courtyard paved in river stones. Relax
on the lawn out back, pet the three-legged
dog or sip a complimentary pisco sour in the
fireplace lounge.
The sale of local weavings helps fund pub-
lic libraries. French, English and German
are spoken.
Hotel Monasterio LUXURY HOTEL $$$
(Map p198; %60-4000; www.monasterio.orient
-express.com; Calle Palacio 136; d from US$700, ste
S2150-5952; iW) Arranged around graceful
16th-century cloisters, the five-star Mon-
asterio has long been Cuzco’s jewel, with
21 5
majestic public areas and over 100 rooms
surrounding genteel courtyards. Jesuit roots
show in the irregular floor plans, though
some of the renovation touches (ie a plasma
TV that emerges from the foot of the bed)
seem a little gauche.
In addition to two high-end restaurants,
don’t miss the chapel with its original gold-
leaf paintings.
Midori HOTEL $$$
(Map p198; %24-8144; www.midori-cusco.com;
Ataúd 204; s/d incl breakfast S221/280; iW)
Popular with small tour groups, this small
hotel is classic and comfortable. Enormous
rooms feature a living area, brocade fabrics
and firm beds. Locally recommended.
Pariwana HOSTEL $
(Map p198; %23-3751; www.pariwana-hostel.com;
Mesón de la Estrella 136; dm S24-36, d with/without
bathroom S98/85; iW) Resembling spring
break, this notably clean, newer hostel is
filled with uni-types lounging on poufs and
playing ping-pong in the courtyard of a huge
colonial. Wi-fi connection comes in the com-
mon areas. Beds in newish dorms are well-
spaced and the penthouse suite is well worth
the splurge. The chic bar is invite-only.
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
Tierra Viva HOTEL $$$
(Map p198; %60-1317; www.tierravivahoteles.com;
Saphi 766; s/d/tr incl breakfast S300/330/360;
iW) With modern stylings and notable
service, this new Peruvian hotel chain of-
fers two comfortable midrange options in
downtown Cuzco. The Plaza de Armas op-
tion (Suecia 345) is more spacious, with an
interior courtyard. Doubles sport hardwood
floors or Berber carpets, white linens and
colorful throws. Buffet breakfast is available
from 5am on.
S leeping
The Point
u zco
HOSTEL $
(Map p198; %25-2266; www.thepointhostels.com;
Mesón de la Estrella 172; dm S22-30, s/d without
bathroom S50/80; iW) An industrial-sized
party palace, with daily events, on-site bar
The Horny Llama, foosball and a grassy
backyard with hammocks. Another good
choice for the socially inclined. Hosts elec-
tronic music parties of some note.
Hostal Suecia I HOTEL $
(Map p198; %23-3282; www.hostalsuecia1.com;
Suecia 332; s/d incl breakfast S60/90; W) Most
rooms in this pint-sized guesthouse are very
basic, but location and staff are fabulous and
there’s a sociable, stony, indoor courtyard.
216
The two newer doubles on the top floor (311
and 312) are a good value.
Hostal Rojas GUESTHOUSE $$
(%22-8184; Tigre 129; s/d incl breakfast S60/100;
iW) Very friendly, clean and stuffed with
bric-a-brac, this family-run hostel is nota-
bly cheap for solo travelers. A three-minute
walk from the Plaza de Armas.
Loreto Boutique Hotel HOTEL $$
(Map p198; %22-6352; www.loretoboutique
hotel.com; Loreto 115; s/d/tr incl breakfast
S199/252/305) Maybe you’re paying for the
plaza location, since ‘boutique’ is an over-
statement here. Dimly-lit in daytime, Loreto
has well-heeled, snug rooms bathed in neu-
trals. The best feature are the four rooms
with surviving Inca walls.
El Balcón Hostal HOTEL $$
(%23-6738; www.balconcusco.com; Tambo de
Montero 222; s/d/tr incl breakfast S160/220/270;
iW) This renovated building dating from
1630 has just 16 basic rooms, all with balco-
nies, phone and TV. The garden blooms with
fuchsias and offers great views over Cuzco.
There’s also a sauna.
Hotel los Marqueses HOTEL $$
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
(Map p198; %26-4249; www.hotelmarqueses.
com; Calle Garcilaso 256; s/d/tr incl breakfast
from S196/252/308; W) Romance pervades
this colonial villa, built in the 16th century
by Spanish conquistadors. Classic features
include escuela cuzqueña paintings, court-
yard fountains and balconies looking out on
the cathedral on the Plaza de Armas. Rooms
are large and airy, with some brass beds and
carved wooden doors. Some have split-level
sleeping areas and skylights. Most guests
come on package tours. Wi-fi is available
only on the patio.
S leeping
u zco
Andenes de Saphi HOTEL $$
(Map p198; %22-7561; www.andenesdesaphi.com;
Saphi 848; s/d/tr S146/164/190; W) At the far
end of Saphi, where the city starts to become
more rural, this dependable, modern hotel
has a rustic wooden construction with sky-
lights and murals in every room.
Hotel Royal Inca I HOTEL $$$
(Map p198; %23-1067; www.royalinkahotel.com;
Plaza Regocijo 299; s/d incl breakfast S205/269;
iW) Quiet as a mausoleum, this central
hotel features good-quality rooms. Those
in the colonial building are a bit dated but
comfortable and luxurious, while the mod-
ern ones are big, bright and cheery. The odd-
est feature might be the mix of kitsch in the
public areas, including gold masks and an
oversized wall mural with an indigenous na-
ture scene bordering on soft porn.
Renacimiento APARTMENT $$
(%22-1596; www.cuscoapart.com; Ceniza 331;
s/d S100/160; W) An unsigned treasure, this
colonial mansion has been converted into 12
stylish one- and two-bedroom apartments
sleeping one to six people, each unique in
design and furnishing. Cozy and comfort-
able, it’s fabulous for families.
Mama Simona HOSTEL $
(%26-0408; www.mamasimona.com; Calle Ceniza
364; dm S25-33; iW) A new player in town,
this hostel is styled for hipsters, with a
crushed velvet sofa and oddball decor. Beds
have nice down covers and the shared kitch-
en with picnic tables is undoubtedly cute,
but we wish it were a little cleaner. It’s two
blocks northeast of Plaza San Francisco.
Hospedaje Familiar »
Munay Wasi GUESTHOUSE $
(Map p198; %22-3661; Huaynapata 253; s/d/tr/q
S40/50/90/100; i) This friendly, homey
family inn is housed in a ramshackle adobe
building without a single right angle to its
name. Room 201, which has huge windows,
minibalconies and a magic view of down-
town Cuzco, is understandably popular with
families. The reception is on the second
floor of the interior courtyard.
Loki Hostel HOSTEL $
(%24-3705; www.lokihostel.com; Cuesta Santa Ana
601; dm S23-30, d/tr incl breakfast S85/110; iW)
This 450-year-old national monument is
a great place to eat, drink and be merry –
sleeping, not so much. If it feels like a vil-
lage, that’s because it practically is: its capac-
ity of 280 guests is among Cuzco’s highest.
On weekends the on-site bar features local
bands and DJs.
WalkOn Inn HOSTEL $
(Map p198; %23-5065; www.walkoninn.com; Suecia
504; dm/s/d S25/65/75; iW) A five-minute
puff up from the Plaza de Armas, this qui-
eter hostel has views but rather indifferent
service. Breakfast is not included.
Del Prado Inn HOTEL $$$
(Map p198; %22-442; www.delpradoinn.com; Sue-
cia 310; s/d/tr incl buffet breakfast S225/390/435;
iW) Del Prado is a solid option, with ef-
ficient staff and just over a dozen snug
rooms reached by elevator. Some have tiny

balconies with corner views of the plaza.
Check out the original Inca walls in the din-
ing room.
Los Andes de America HOTEL $$$
(Map p198; %60-6060; www.cuscoandes.com;
Calle Garcilaso 150; s/d incl breakfast S347/410)
A Best Western hotel noted for its buffet
breakfast, which includes regional special-
ties such as mote con queso (cheese and
corn) and papa helada (frozen potato).
Rooms are warm and comfortable, bath-
rooms are big and relatively luxurious, and
the atrium features a scale model of Machu
Picchu.
Hostal Suecia II HOTEL $
(Map p198; %23-9757; Tecsecocha 465; s/d/tr
S40/60/80, s/d/tr without bathroom S30/40/60)
This long-standing backpacker favorite con-
tinues to offer excellent value with central
location, friendly owners, a light, bright,
flowery patio, decent rooms and a book-
lending library. Its hostess, Señora Yolanda,
has been here 20 years.
Hostal Corihuasi GUESTHOUSE $$
(Map p198; %23-2233; www.corihuasi.com; Suecia
561; s/d/tr incl breakfast S119/149/178) A brisk
walk uphill from the main plaza, this family-
feel guesthouse inhabits a mazelike colonial
building with postcard views. Amply sized
rooms are outfitted in a warm, rustic style
with alpaca-wool blankets, hand-woven
rugs and solid wooden furnishings. Room 1
is the most in demand for its wraparound
windows, ideal for soaking up panoramic
sunsets. Airport transfer included.
Casa Grande HOTEL $$
(Map p198; %24-5871; www.casagrandelodging.
com.pe; Santa Catalina Ancha 353; s/d/tr incl
breakfast S110/140/170; iW) Location trumps
quality in this colonial hotel. The rickety
balcony wrapped around a charming patio
is the best of this place. Rooms are basic, but
all have cable TV and, unusually, separate
shower and toilet.
Hospedaje Monte Horeb GUESTHOUSE $$
(Map p198; %23-6775; montehoreb cusco@yahoo.
com; San Juan de Dios 260, 2nd fl; s/d incl breakfast
S84/112) With an inner-courtyard entry, this
serene and well-cared for option has big,
old-fashioned rooms, an inviting balcony
and a curious mix of furnishings.
Piccola Locanda GUESTHOUSE $$
(Map p198; %23-6775; www.piccolalocanda.
com; Kiskapata 215; d with/without bathroom
217
S140/126; W) While it’s pretty pricey for
what you get, this colorful Italian-owned
lodging is snug, with quixotic, bright rooms
and a cave-like cushioned lounge. Has an
in-house responsible-travel operator, and
sponsors community projects. Entrance is
on Resbalosa.
Teatro Inka B&B GUESTHOUSE $$
(Map p198; %24-7372, in Lima 01-976-0523; www.
teatroinka.com; Teatro 391; s/d/tr incl breakfast
S66/98/119; iW) An array of dark but decent
doubles sit around an interior courtyard. All
rooms are good value, and the penthouse
suite is well worth splashing out on.
Albergue Municipal HOSTEL $
(Map p198; %25-2506; albergue@municusco.gob.
pe; Kiskapata 240; dm/d S17/40; i) The Cuzco
answer to the YMCA, it’s a good choice for
the tight of budget, with plenty of space,
great views, kitchen access (breakfast only)
and laundry facilities. All rooms have shared
bathrooms.
Los Angeles B&B HOTEL $$
(Map p198; %26-1101; www.losangelescusco.com;
Tecsecocha 474; s/d incl breakfast S117/140; iW)
This old colonial sports worn rooms with
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
gold bedspreads and dark, carved furniture
around a central courtyard.
Hostal Andrea GUESTHOUSE $
(%23-6713; andreahostal@hotmail.com; Cuesta
Santa Ana 514; s/d S40/45, s/d without bathroom
S10/20; iW) Cuzco’s cheapest, this place is
practically falling apart, but the kind, unas-
suming staff make it a reader favorite. Wi-fi
is available only in the living room.
SAN BLAS
Second Home Cusco BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(Map p198; %23-5873; www.secondhome
S leeping
cusco.com; Atocsaycuchi 616; d/tr incl breakfast
u zco
S318/384; iW) A cozy boutique lodging with
three chic suites, featuring original artwork,
adobe walls and skylights. Carlos Delfin, the
affable and cosmopolitan English-speaking
owner, orchestrates free airport pickups
and even private tours; he has even hunted
down the best baguettes in town to serve at
breakfast. Longer stays are discounted.
La Encantada BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(Map p198; %24-2206; www. encantadaperu.com;
Tandapata 354; s/d incl breakfast S212/265; iW)
Bright and cheerful, this modern boutique
hotel features terraced gardens and im-
mense views from iron-rail balconies. A cir-
cular staircase leads to small, tasteful rooms
21 8

THE GUINEA PIG’S CULINARY RISE

Love it or loathe it, cuy, or guinea pig (or Cavia porcellus if you really must know), is an
Andean favorite that’s been part of the local culinary repertoire since pre-Inca times.
And before you dredge up childhood memories of cuddly mascots in protest, know that
these rascally rodents were gracing Andean dinner plates long before anyone in the
West considered them worthy pet material.
Pinpointing the gastronomic history of the cuy, a native of the New World, is harder
than trying to catch one with your bare hands. It’s believed that cuy may have been
domesticated as early as 7000 years ago in the mountains of southern Peru, where wild
populations of cuy still roam today. Direct evidence from Chavín de Huántar shows that
they were certainly cultivated across the Andes by 900 BC. Arrival of the Spanish in the
18th century led to the European debut of cuy, where they rode a wave of popularity as
the must-have exotic pet of the season (Queen Elizabeth I of England supposedly kept
one).
How they earned the name guinea pig is also in doubt. Guinea may be a corruption of
the South American colony of Guiana, or it may refer to Guinea, the African country that
cuy would have passed through on their voyage to Europe. Their squeals probably ac-
count for the latter half of their name.
Cuy are practical animals to raise and have adapted well over the centuries to survive
in environments ranging from the high Andean plains to the barren coastal deserts.
Many Andean households today raise cuy as part of their animal stock and you’ll often
see them scampering around the kitchen in true free-range style. Cuy are the ideal
livestock alternative: they’re high in protein, feed on kitchen scraps, breed profusely and
require much less room and maintenance than traditional domesticated animals.
Cuy is seen as a true delicacy, so much so that in many indigenous interpretations of
The Last Supper, Jesus and his disciples are sitting down to a hearty final feast of roast
cuy.
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C

An integral part of Andean culture, even beyond the kitchen table, cuy are also
used by curanderos (healers) in ceremonial healing rituals. Cuy can be passed over a
patient’s body and used to sense out a source of illness and cuy meat is sometimes
ingested in place of hallucinogenic plants during shamanistic ceremonies.
If you can overcome your sentimental inhibitions, sample this furry treat. The rich
flavors are a cross between rabbit and quail, and correctly prepared cuy can be an ex-
ceptional feast with thousands of years of history.

with soft linens and king-sized beds. The is a vine-entwined, slightly claustrophobic
onsite spa helps hikers work out the aches little jewel box. Rooms have skylights and
and kinks. Be aware that checkout is at 9am. funky dimensions. Good value for money.
S leeping

Hostal Pensión Alemana HOTEL $$ Amaru Hostal HOTEL $$

u zco

(Map p198; %22-6861; www.cuzco-stay.de; Tanda- (Map p198; %22-5933; www.cusco.net/amaru;

pata 260; s/d/tr incl breakfast S154/184/232; iW)
Attentive and lovely, this polished Swiss-Ger-
man lodge wouldn’t look out of place in the
Alps. Nice touches include air purifiers and
complimentary tea and fruit. Couples should
note there are very few matrimonial beds.
Enjoy the tiled garden – rare in Cuzco – and
the terraces with sweeping views.
Madre Tierra B&B $$
(Map p198; %24-8452; www.hostalmadretierra.
com; Atocsaycuchi 647; d/tr S130/207; iW)
Warm and super cozy, with plenty of B&B-
style luxury comfort touches, Madre Tierra
Cuesta San Blas 541; s/d/tr incl breakfast
S105/135/189; iW) In a characterful old
building in a prime location, Amaru is de-
servedly popular. Flowerpots sit outside
well-kept rooms with styles that are a little
dated. Some feature rocking chairs from
which to admire the rooftop view. Rooms in
the outer courtyard are noisy, and those at
the back are newest.
Hostal Marani HOTEL $$
(Map p198; %24-9462; www.hostalmarani.
com; Carmen Alto 194; s/d/tr incl breakfast
S109/173/227; W) Recommended, this airy

oasis is friendly and lovely. The Spanish-tile
courtyard is surrounded by modest rooms
that vary in size and shape. A few upstairs
have vaulted ceilings, skylights and city
views.
Tika Wasi HOTEL $$
(Map p198; %23-1609; www.tikawasi.com; Tanda-
pata 491; s/d/tr incl breakfast S89/122/155, supe-
rior s/d/tr S89/166/199; W) Behind a tall wall,
this modern inn offers a personable option.
Rooms are bright and airy, overlooking
small, sunny decks to hang out on. Breakfast
is buffet. Non-nationals should be sure to get
the tax subtracted from the room price.
Samay Wasi HOSTEL $
(Map p198; %25-3108; www.samaywasiperu.com;
Atocsaycuchi 416; dm S30, s/d/tr incl breakfast
S64/68/90; iW) A friendly, rambling hostel
clinging precariously to the hillside, hid-
den up a flight of stairs teetering way above
town. There’s a proper kitchen and ship-
shape rooms. Some are a bit musty so ask
to see a few. With major city views. Accepts
credit cards.
Hospedaje el Artesano »
de San Blas GUESTHOUSE $
(Map p198; %26-3968; hospedajeartesano790@
hotmail.com; Suytuccato 790; s/d S30/50; W) If
you’re wondering why it’s such a deal, just
try walking here with a full pack. Still, this
peaceful and falling-down-charming coloni-
al house has large rooms and a sunny patio
with wi-fi reception. Kitchen available.
Hostal Rumi Punku HOTEL $$$
(Map p198; %22-1102; www.rumipunku.com; Cho-
quechaca 339; s/d incl breakfast S223/279; iW)
Recognizable by the monumental Inca
stonework around the entrance, Rumi
Punku (Stone Door) is a stylish complex of
old colonial houses, gardens and terraces.
The rooftop terraces and other outdoor
areas are utterly charming. Rooms ooze
comfort and class, with central heating,
wooden floors and European bedding.
It’s probably not worth the upgrade to a
superior room unless you want a bigger
bed. Sauna and Jacuzzi are available for a
minimal charge.
Casona Les Pleiades B&B $$
(Map p198; %50-6430; www.casona-pleiades.com;
Tandapata 116; d/tr incl breakfast S165/210; iW)
A pleasant French-run B&B with a sunny
courtyard featuring fresh flowers and bal-
cony seating. The buffet breakfast is served
219
in cozy booths. Heaters and lockboxes are
supplied in rooms.
Casa San Blas BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(%23-7900; www.casasanblas.com; Tocuyeros 566;
s/d/ste incl breakfast S330/360/528; iW) Down
a short passageway, this revamped colonial
features smart, spare rooms with nice bed-
ding, hardwood floors and Andean textiles.
It has a cozy feel, though service is some-
what impersonal.
Casa de Campo Hostal HOTEL $$
(Map p198; %24-4404; www.hotelcasadecam
po.com; Tandapata 298; s/d/tr incl breakfast
S119/145/172; iW) The steep climb here
(and to your room) might leave you on
your knees, but the views astound. With a
warm and friendly vibe, this hillside inn is
almost perfect but installations are aging.
Some rooms don’t even have working elec-
trical outlets (and most have just one), so
check before settling in. Breakfast includes
a sprawling buffet that includes fresh fruit
and cereal. Heaters cost extra.
Pisko & Soul HOSTEL $
(Map p198; %22-1998; info@piskoandsoul.com;
Carmen Alto 294; dm/d incl breakfast S27/108;
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
iW) This Peruvian hostel goes for the Span-
ish language school formula, with free les-
sons, evening events and barbecues. Small
dorms have snug down covers but the bath-
rooms could use some bleach.
Hospedaje Familiar Kuntur Wasi HOTEL $
(Map p198; %22-7570; Tandapata 352A; r per per-
son with/without bathroom S60/35) Quiet and
economical, this simple hotel features ship-
shape rooms and free buffet breakfast. Inte-
rior rooms lack natural light, and there have
been mixed reviews about the management,
but it’s a hard bargain to beat.
S leeping
u zco
Los Apus Hotel & Mirador HOTEL $$$
(Map p198; %26-4243; www.losapushotel.com;
Atocsaycuchi 515; s/d incl breakfast S260/315;
aiW) With understated class, this long-
time Swiss-run hotel features central heat-
ing, large bedrooms with down duvets
and colonial cuzqueño-style art. It may
seem overpriced, but you are also paying
for the high-tech alarm system and an
emergency water supply. A wheelchair-
accessible room for travelers with disabili-
ties is available.
Eureka Hostal HOTEL $$
(Map p198; %23-3505; www.peru-eureka.com;
Chihuampata 591; s/d/tr S198/231/297; iW) A
220
funky blend of old and new, Eureka’s styl-
ish lobby and sun-soaked cafeteria invite
further acquaintance. Rooms are comfort-
able but a little odd, with a child-like take
on traditional motifs. Orthopedic mattresses
and down quilts make them as comfortable
as they are cool. Flexible tarifs can make it
an even better deal.
Hostal el Grial HOTEL $$
(Map p198; %22-3012; www.hotelelgrial.com; Car-
men Alto 112; s/d/tr S80/119/170) A good value
in a rickety old wood-floored building; all
rooms have orthopedic mattresses and some
have views.
Pantastico GUESTHOUSE $
(Map p198; %954-387; www.hotelpantastico.com;
Carmen Bajo 226; s/d S65/90, dm/s/d/tr without
bathroom S30/45/70/90; iW) This newish
bed and bakery features fresh bread daily at
5am. From the looks of it, few of the guests
have theirs hot (though breakfast is includ-
ed). There’s also good water pressure and a
hardcore hippie groove: if you want to shop
for San Pedro experiences or make organic
pizza, it’s your spot.
Hospedaje Inka GUESTHOUSE $
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
(Map p198; %23-1995; http://hospedajeinka.wee
bly.com; Suytuccato 848; dm/s/d incl breakfast
S20/25/40; W) This scruffy but charming con-
verted hillside farmhouse high above the Pla-
za San Blas affords some great views. There’s
erratic hot water, private bathrooms and a
large farm kitchen available for cooking your
own meals. Taxis can’t climb the final uphill
stretch, so be prepared for a stiff walk.
AVENIDA EL SOL & DOWNHILL
Hostal San Juan Masías GUESTHOUSE $
(Map p204; %43-1563; hostalsanjuanmasias@ya
hoo.es; Ahuacpinta 600; s/d/tr S50/80/120, s/d/tr
S leeping
u zco
without bathroom S35/60/90; i) An excellent al-
zco
ternative guesthouse run by Dominican nuns
on the grounds of the busy Colegio Martín de
Porres, this place is clean, safe and friendly,
and overlooks frequent volleyball matches on
the courtyard. Simple, spotless rooms with
heat are arranged off a long, sunny hallway.
Continental breakfast is included.
Hotel Libertador Palacio »
del Inka LUXURY HOTEL $$
(Map p198; %23-1961; www.libertador.com.pe;
Plazoleta Santo Domingo 259; d/ste US$210/260;
aiW) Opulence bedecks this colonial
mansion. It’s built over Inca foundations,
with parts of the building dating back to the
16th century, when Francisco Pizarro was an
occupant. It’s as luxurious and beautiful as
you’d expect, with a fine interior courtyard,
and ample rooms that were recently reno-
vated. It also features a Peruvian restaurant,
bar and business center.
Yanantin Guest House GUESTHOUSE $$
(Map p204; %25-4205; www.yanantin.com;
Ahuacpinta 775; s/d incl breakfast S95/108; W)
This small guesthouse has an assortment
of well-heeled rooms large enough for desks
and coffee tables. Organic toiletries are of-
fered and the comfy beds feature cotton
sheets and down bedding. A good value.
Mirador Hostal GUESTHOUSE $
(Map p204; %24-8986; soldelimperiocusco@
yahoo.es; Ahuacpinta s/n; s/d/tr incl breakfast
S45/65/90; iW) A cheery, rambling concrete
jungle overlooking a main road. Rooms are
basic and somewhat run-down but clean.
Friendly, helpful staff make it a favorite.
Rates include breakfast.
Hostal Inkarri HOTEL $$
(Map p198; %24-2692; www.inkarrihostal.com;
Qolla Calle 204; s/d/tr incl breakfast S106/133/180;
iW) A roomy place with a pleasant stone
courtyard, well-kept colonial terraces and
whimsical collections of old sewing ma-
chines, phones and typewriters. A very good
value, but watch for rooms on the musty
side.
Los Aticos HOTEL $$
(Map p204; %23-1710; www.losaticos.com; Quera
253, Pasaje Hurtado Álvarez; d/apt incl breakfast
S132/172; iW) Hidden in a small passage-
way, this sleepy spot is off the radar but
well worth snagging. Rooms have comfy
beds with down duvets and parquet floors.
There’s also self-service laundry and a full
guest kitchen. The three mini-apartments
sleep up to four and are good value for self-
catering groups or families.
Picol Hostal HOTEL $$
(Map p204; %24-9191; picolhostal@gmail.com;
Quera 253, Pasaje Hurtado Álvarez; s/d/tr incl break-
fast S60/90/110; W) In a bustling commercial
district, this small hotel has agreeable staff
and tiny, well-kept and airy doubles. The tri-
ples are a little too tight.
GREATER CUZCO
Hospedaje Turismo Caith GUESTHOUSE $
(%23-3595; www.caith.org; Urb Ucchullo Alto, Pasaje
Sto Toribio N4; r per person incl breakfast S70; W)
This rambling farmhouse-style hostel also

runs an onsite girls foundation. Huge pic-
ture windows and various balconies and
patios look toward the Plaza de Armas, a
20-minute walk or a five-minute taxi ride
away. It’s great for families – big rooms and
cots are available, and the rambling, grassy
garden is a perfect place for kids to run
around.
Torre Dorada Residencial GUESTHOUSE $$
(%24-1698; www.torredorada.com; Los Cipreses
N-5, Residencial Huancaro; s/d incl breakfast
S252/292; i) With lovely and original decor
in bright colors, Torre Dorada is a modern,
family-run hotel in a quiet residential dis-
trict close to the bus terminal. Though it
isn’t close to the action, guests rave about
the high quality of service. It offers free
shuttles to the airport, train stations and the
town center. Fluent English is spoken.
Hostal San Juan de Dios GUESTHOUSE $$
(%24-0135; www.hostalsanjuandedios.com; Man-
zanares 264, Urb Manuel Prado; s/d incl breakfast
S93/119; i) With a wonderful staff, this spot-
less guesthouse is part of a nonprofit enter-
prise that supports a hospital clinic and also
provides job opportunities for young people
with disabilities. The quiet, carpeted rooms
have large windows; most have twin beds,
though there’s one matrimonial double. Staff
help with everything from laundry services
to making international phone calls.
It’s a 30-minute walk or S6 taxi ride from
the city center, near shops and amenities.
5 Eating
Cuzco’s location, nearly dropping off the
eastern edge of the Andes, gives it access to
an unbelievable range of crops from high-
land potatoes and quinoa to avocados and
ají picante (hot chili).
CENTRAL CUZCO
oCicciolina INTERNATIONAL $$$
(Map p198; %23-9510; Triunfo 393, 2nd fl; mains
S30-55; h8am-late) On the 2nd floor of a lofty
colonial courtyard mansion, Cicciolina has
long held its position as Cuzco’s best restau-
rant. The eclectic, sophisticated food is di-
vine, starting with house-marinated olives,
continuing with crisp polenta squares with
cured rabbit, huge green salads, charred
octopus and satisfying mains like squid-ink
pasta and tender lamb.
The service is impeccable, and the warmly-
lit seating will make any laid-back globetrot-
ter feel at home. Highly recommended.
221
CHEAP EATS
You might be sharing a table with of-
fice workers on break at these popular
lunch spots. Often not advertised, a
lunchtime menú (set meal) includes
soup, a main course, a drink and some-
times dessert.
Restaurante Egos (Arequipa 248;
menú S8)
Restaurante Chihuanhuay (Cuesta
el Almirante facing Museo Inka; menú S7)
Kukuly (Huaynapata 318; menú S7)
Q’ori Sara (Calle Garcilaso 290; menú S8)
oLa Bodega 138 PIZZERIA $$
(Map p198; %26-0272; Herrajes 138; mains S18-
35; h6:30-11pm Mon-Sat) Sometimes you are
homesick for good atmosphere and uncom-
plicated menus. In comes La Bodega, a fan-
tastic laid-back enterprise run by a family
in what used to be their home. Thin crust
pizzas are fired up in the adobe oven, or-
ganic salads are fresh and abundant and the
prices are reasonable. A true find.
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
Chicha NOVOANDINA $$$
(Map p198; %24-0520; Regocijo 261, 2nd fl; mains
S24-50) A Gastón Acurio venture serving up
haute versions of cuzqueño classics. Their
riff on anticuchos (beef skewers) is a delec-
table barbecued octopus, grilled on skewers
with crisp herbed potato wedges. Other con-
tenders include rocoto relleno, the wonton-
style sopa de gallina and chairo (beef soup)
served in a clay pot. The chicha morada is
beyond fresh.
Naturally, debate rages as to whether it’s
worth the price (and pretension): our vote
E ating
u zco
is yes.
Limo PERUVIAN $$$
(Map p198; %24-068; Portal de Carnes 236, 2nd
fl; mains S24-60; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat) Start
with a tart pisco sour, it’s the perfect com-
pliment to the fresh Peruvian-Asian seafood
creations. For starters, a basket of native po-
tatoes, served with sauces, is a fun change
from bread on the table. Tiraditos, strips
of raw fish in a fragrant sauce, simply melt
on the tongue. Other hits are the creamy
causas (potato dish) and sudadito, a mix
of greens, corn and seared scallops. Elegant
ambience and attentive service.
222
El Hada ICE CREAM $
(Map p198; Arequipa 167; ice cream from S6;
h11am-8pm Mon-Sat) Served in fresh-made
cones with a hint of vanilla or lemon peel,
these exotic ice creams are ecstasy. Flavors
like Indonesian cinnamon, bitter chocolate
or roasted apples do not disappoint. Cap it
off with an espress – Café Bisetti, Peru’s best
roaster, is offered.
Le Soleil FRENCH $$$
(Map p198; %24-0543, San Agustín 275; mains S39-
65; h12:30-3pm Mon-Fri, 7-10:30pm Sat) Cuzco’s
go-to spot for traditional French cooking,
this romantic white-linen restaurant does
not disappoint. The menu features staples
like brandied trout, baked ratatouille with
goat cheese and herbs, and duck à l’orange.
You can also go for an eight-course tasting
menu or the three-course menú del dia
(S69). Ingredients like fish stock may be in
non-meat dishes, so vegetarians should or-
der carefully.
SGreen’s Organic CAFE $$
(Map p198; %24-3399; Santa Catalina Angosta 235,
2nd fl; mains S21-44; h11am-10pm; Wv) With
all-organic food and a bright farmhouse
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
feel, Green’s Organic oozes health. Inventive
salads with options like roasted fennel, goat
cheese, beets and spring greens are a wel-
come change of pace and the heartier fare
includes pastas and alpaca dishes. Come
early (or late) as it fills up fast and service
is notably slow.
Deli Monasterio BAKERY $$
(Map p198; Calle Palacio 140; sandwiches S14;
h8am-6pm) Crusty, authentic baguettes are
the highlight here (come early) but you can
also get nice lunchboxes (perfect for day ex-
cursions) with gourmet and veggie options.
E ating
The mini pain au chocolat and passion fruit
u zco
cookies aren’t bad either.
Trujillo Restaurant PERUVIAN $
(%23-3465; Av Tullumayo 542 at Plaza Limacpam-
pa; mains S15-28; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm
Sun) Run by a northern Peruvian family,
this simple dining hall by Qorikancha nails
northern classics such seco de cabrito (goat
stewed in beer and cilantro) and a variety
of ceviches. The aji de gallina (a creamy
chicken stew served with rice and potatoes)
is the best in all of Cuzco.
CBC Bakery BAKERY $
(Map p198; %23-4035; qosqomaki.org/tallerpana-
deria; Tullumayo 465; pastries S3; h7:30am-8pm
Mon-Sat) The best chocolate croissants in
town, plus other scrumptious baked goods,
are made in this charitable foundation that
capacitates local at-risk youth as bakers.
La Justina PIZZERIA $
(Map p198; %25-5474; Calle Palacio 110; pizzas
S19-30; h6-11pm Mon-Sat) Traipse through an
uneven stone courtyard to this little gem,
a pizza joint with wooden tables and gor-
geous wood-fired pies. Original toppings
include tomato, bacon and basil or spinach
and garlic.
Uchu Peruvian Steakhouse PERUVIAN $$
(Map p198; %24-6598; Calle Palacio 135; mains
S22-48; h12:30-11pm) With a cozy, cavernous
ambience of low-lit adobe, dark tables and
bright turquoise walls, this chic eatery has a
simple menu of meat (steak, alpaca or chick-
en) and fish cooked on hot volcanic stones at
your table and served with delicious sauces.
The staff is knowledgeable and quick to
serve, a real treat.
Kintaro JAPANESE $
(Map p198; Plateros 326, 2nd fl; menu S15, rolls
S10-38; h12-3:30pm & 6:30-10pm Mon-Sat) Local
expats rave about the noodle bowls. The set
lunch proves a good deal and provides a wel-
come change from local flavors. Also serves
sushi and sake.
A Mi Manera PERUVIAN $$
(Map p198; %22-2219; www.amimaneraperu.com;
Triunfo 392, 2nd fl; mains S22-42; h10am-10pm)
For a reasonably priced night out, this ro-
mantic restaurant serves up traditional
Peruvian cuisine and pasta. Offerings like
steak in port sauce, spicy yucca or mashed
muña potatoes comfort and satisfy.
Los Perros FUSION $
(Map p198; Tecsecocha 436; mains S17-24) This
Australian-founded gathering spot serves
Asian-slanted bar food at good prices in an
intimate couch bar. Try the sesame chicken
sandwich – tender with a side of guacamole
and big enough for two.
Aldea Yanapay CAFE $
(Map p198; %25-5134; Ruinas 415, 2nd fl; menú
S15, mains from S22; h9am-11:30pm; v) The
stuffed animals, board games and decor per-
fectly evoke the circus you dreamed of run-
ning away with as a child. Aldea Yanapay is
pitched at families but will appeal to anyone
with a taste for the quixotic. Food includes
burritos, falafel and tasty little fried things

to pick at, and there’s a whole separate
menu for vegetarians.
Profits go to projects helping abandoned
children. Highly recommended.
Divina Comedia INTERNATIONAL $$
(%23-2522; www.hotelarqueologo.com; Pumacurco
408; mains S25-35; h12-3pm & 6-11pm Mon-Sat)
With sopranos singing live arias, this unu-
sual upscale eatery fills a small niche of ro-
mantic dining with entertainment. The food
combines Peruvian ingredients with Medi-
terranean influences; start with tapas, a no-
table specialty is duck, slow-cooked to utter
tenderness, or maybe that’s what you’re feel-
ing just before the music stops.
El Encuentro VEGETARIAN $
(Map p198; Santa Catalina Ancha 384; menu S8;
h6:30am-10pm; v) Incredibly economical,
this vegetarian restaurant offers set lunch
with a salad bar starter, rib-sticking barley
soup and mains like tofu and wilted veg-
gies with rice. What it lacks in subtlety, it
makes up for in abundance. There’s a sec-
ond location with more limited hours at
Choquechaca 136.
El Ayllu CAFE $
(Map p198; Marquez 263; mains S10; h6:30am-
10pm) This old-fashioned cafe is beloved by
Peruvians. Longtime staff chat up clients
and serve traditional pastries like lengua
de suegra and pork sandwiches. Traditional
breakfasts are worth trying and coffee is
roasted the traditional local way – with or-
ange, sugar and onion peels.
Marcelo Batata PERUVIAN $$
(Map p198; Calle Palacio 121; mains S21-38; h2-
11pm) A sure bet for Peruvian food, often
with an added twist. The chicken soup with
hierba Luisa, a local herb, is exquisite, and
that’s only the start of an eclectic fusion
menu. You might also want to sample their
daring array of cocktails from the rooftop
deck – the city views make it the best out-
door venue in Cuzco.
Los Toldos PERUVIAN $
(Map p198; cnr Almagro & San Andrés; mains S12-
20; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat) A local favorite
for abundant cheap eats, this rotisserie
restaurant features a worthwhile salad bar
(try the black olive sauce). Most people
can’t go past the Peruvian classic cuarto de
pollo (quarter of a chicken), done here to
perfection.
22 3
Real McCoy PUB $$
(Map p198; %26-1111; Plateros 326, 2nd fl; mains
from S14; h7:30am-late; W) Tempts the home-
sick Brit with chips and gravy, real baked
beans and roast dinners with Yorkshire pud-
ding. Inviting and chilled out, the Real Mc-
Coy welcomes guests with comfy couches,
beanbags and sports on TV. Happy hour is
5pm to 8pm.
Victor Victoria PERUVIAN $$
(Map p198; %25-2854; Tecsecocha 466; mains from
S15; h7am-10pm) Serving princely portions of
primarily Peruvian food, this central restau-
rant has a stout following of backpackers.
Quinoa laced with cheese is deliriously good
and cuy (guinea pig) – served with stuffed
rocoto peppers, corn and potatoes – is nota-
bly authentic (order ahead).
Self-Catering
Small, overpriced grocery shops near the
Plaza de Armas include Gato’s Market (Map
p198; Santa Catalina Ancha 377; h9am-11pm) and
Market (Map p198; Mantas 119; h8am-11pm).
For a more serious stock-up head to super-
market Mega (Map p204; cnr Matará & Ayacu-
cho; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun).
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
SAN BLAS
Jack’s Café CAFE $
(Map p198; %25-4606; Choquechaca 509; mains
S12-20; h7:30am-11:30pm) A line often snakes
out the door at this Western-style, Austral-
ian-run eatery. With fresh juices blended
with mint or ginger, strong coffee and eggs
heaped with smoked salmon or roasted to-
matoes, it’s easy to get out of bed. Also has
nice cafe food, soups and good service.
Granja Heidi CAFE $$
(Map p198; %23-8383; Cuesta San Blas 525, 2nd
fl; mains S18-38; h11:30am-9:30pm Mon-Sat) A
E ating
cozy Alpine cafe serving healthy fare, some
u zco
of it provided from the small farm of the
German owner. In addition to Peruvian fare
(rocoto relleno is served vegetarian, with
stuffed chili and peanuts), there are crepes
and huge bowls of soups and salads. Save
room for dessert.
The Meeting Place CAFE $
(Map p198; %24-0465; Plazoleta San Blas; mains
S15-21; h8:30am-4pm Mon-Sat; W) Owned by
Idaho natives, this cafe nails gringo break-
fast. Start with organic coffee or nice loose-
leaf teas, oversized waffles and egg combina-
tions. We hear the half-pound bacon cheese-
burgers merit a lunchtime visit. Service is
224
swift and friendly. All proceeds go to support
community projects.
Prasada VEGETARIAN $
(Map p198; %25-3644; Canchipata 269; mains S6;
h8am-6pm; v) The best bang for your pesos,
serving tacos, tortilla soup and lentil burg-
ers with fresh toppings and generous serv-
ings. Pair with a jar of fresh-squeezed juice
and you’re ready for the hike up to Sacsay-
wamán. There is a second takeout-only lo-
cation (with one stool) at Choquechaca 152.
La Quinta Eulalia PERUVIAN $$
(Map p198; %22-4951; Choquechaca 384; mains
S25-50) This Cuzco classic has been in busi-
ness for over half a century and its courtyard
patio is a score on a sunny day. The chalk-
board menu features the tenderest roast
lamb, alpaca and traditional sides like the
phenomenal rocotto relleno, spicy peppers
stuffed with beef, peas and carrots topped
with dribbling cheese. It is one of the best
places to order cuy.
Juanito’s SANDWICHES $
(Map p198; Qanchipata 596; sandwiches S15;
h8am-8pm) With the griddle hopping, this
sandwich shop churns out made-to-order
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
numbers. Vegetarians get big fried-egg sand-
wiches and new combos like chicken and
walnuts prove tasty.
Pacha Papa PERUVIAN $$
(Map p198; %24-1318; Plazoleta Plaza San Blas
120; mains S12-30; h11am-11pm) Invoking a
rustic highland ambience, this open court-
yard with wooden tables serves up well-
prepared Peruvian classics, cooked over a
wood fire or in clay pots. It’s also livened
by a harpist on weekends. It’s a good spot
to try buttered corn in herbs, aji de gallina
or oven-fired trout. Cuy should be ordered
Du
in advance.
rinking
zco
Korma Sutra INDIAN $$
(Map p198; %23-3023; Tandapata 909; mains S25;
h1-10pm Mon-Sat; v) If you are craving spice,
this London-style curry house will do the
trick, with its garlicky naan, lassies and a
variety of creamy kormas and curries. It’s
relaxing in the evening, with low-lit violet
walls and cushioned booths.
Picantería María Angola PERUVIAN $$
(Map p198; Choquechaca 292; mains S15-25;
h11am-7pm) A good place to try local
foods such as ubre (breaded udder), tripa
(tripe) or panza apanada (stomach lin-
ing), or more appetizing chicharrones and
costillares (ribs). Turn right and head up the
stairs when you walk in.
AVENIDA EL SOL & DOWNHILL
Pampa de Castillo is the street near Qori-
kancha where local workers lunch on Cuz-
co classics. Expect lots of caldo de gallina
(chicken soup) and chicharrones, deep-fried
pork chunks with corn, mint and, of course,
potato, in a range of restaurants.
Don Estéban and Don Pancho CAFE $$
(Map p204; %25-2526; Av El Sol 765A; snacks S5-
15; h8am-10pm) A longtime local favorite for
empanadas; the empanada de ají de galli-
na is especially scrumptious. They also serve
cuzqueño breakfasts.
GREATER CUZCO
Most popular local restaurants are outside
the historic center and focus on lunch; few
open for dinner. Don’t expect to encounter
any language other than Spanish in these
places, but the food is worth the effort!
Tradiciones Cusqueñas PERUVIAN $$
(off Map p204; %23-1988; Belén 835; mains S20-
40; h11am-10pm) The home of a good Sunday
lunch, Cuzco-style. It features jolly, utilitar-
ian decor, huge piles of meat and potatoes,
and delicious homemade limonada (lemon-
ade). Come hungry!
Olas Bravas CEVICHE $$
(%43-9328; Mariscal Gamarra 11A; ceviche S22;
h9am-5pm) Most cuzqueños think Olas
Bravas offers the best ceviche in town, so
it’s often packed. Even if ceviche isn’t your
thing, this is a great place to try other criollo
(coastal) dishes, such as causas and seco a
la norteña (goat stew). Check out the ham-
mocks and the mural of the surfer.
Señor Carbón
BARBECUE $$
(%24-4426; Urb Magisterio Segunda Etapa H5;
buffet S40; hlunch & dinner) Cuzco’s only Ro-
dizio-style grill. The buffet is a carnivore’s
dream – all the meat you can eat, cooked to
your liking, plus salad bar. If you can still fit
it in, there’s a scoop of ice cream for dessert.
6 Drinking
The European pubs are good places to track
down those all-important soccer matches,
with satellite TVs more or less permanently
tuned in to sports.
7 Angelitos BAR
(Map p198; Siete Angelitos 638; h6pm-late Mon-
Sat) This tiny hillside haunt is the city’s unof-
 22 5

THE LUCKY TOAD

Ever wondered what cuzqueños do to relax instead of whiling away the hours over a
game of darts or pool in the local bar? Well, next time you’re in a picantería (local res-
taurant) or quinta (house serving typical Andean food), look out for a strange metal
sapo (frog or toad) mounted on a large box and surrounded by various holes and slots.
Men will often spend the whole afternoon drinking chicha (fermented corn beer) and
beer while competing at this old test of skill in which players toss metal disks as close to
the toad as possible. Top points are scored for landing one smack in the mouth. Legend
has it that the game originated with Inca royals, who used to toss gold coins into Lake
Titicaca in the hopes of attracting a sapo, believed to possess magical healing powers
and to have the ability to grant wishes.

ficial hipster lounge and late-night backup: Piscuo COCKTAIL BAR

when everything else has closed and the
sun has come up, knock on the door. Happy
hours are 7:30pm to 9:30pm and 11pm to
11:30pm.
Fallen Angel COCKTAIL BAR
(Map p198; %25-8184; Plazoleta Nazarenas 221;
h6pm-late) This ultrafunky lounge redefines
kitsch with glitter balls, fake fur and even
bathtub-cum-aquarium tables complete
with live goldfish. It isn’t cheap, but the de-
cor really is worth seeing and the occasional
theme parties held here are legendary.
(Map p198; %231-782; Portal Belén 115, second
fl) This low-lit, minimalist bar is in with
local professionals who sit at the wrapa-
round bar ordering the rainbow selection of
mixed drinks. With live bands on Friday and
Saturday.
Paddy Flaherty’s PUB
(Map p198; %24-7719; Triunfo 124; h11am-late)
This cramped little Irish pub is packed with
random memorabilia, TVs, a working train
set and homesick European travelers eat-
ing excellent-value hot sandwiches. Happy

Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C

hours are from 7pm to 8pm and 10pm to
Norton Rats PUB
10:30pm.
(Map p198; cnr Santa Catalina Angosta & Plaza de
Armas, 2nd fl; h7am-late) Run by a motorcycle
enthusiast, this unassuming expat-style bar
3 Entertainment
Clubs open early, but crank up a few notches
overlooks the Plaza de Armas. It’s a boon for
after about 11pm. Happy hour is ubiquitous
people watching, if you can get a balcony
and generally entails two-for-one on beer or
seat. Though known for delicious 200g burg-
certain mixed drinks.
ers, it’s also got TVs, darts and billiards to
In popular discotecas (beware the word
help you work up a thirst. Avoid the burri-
‘nightclub’ – it is often used in Peru to in-
tos. Happy hour is 7pm to 9pm.
dicate a brothel), especially right on the
Cross Keys PUB Plaza de Armas, both sexes should beware
(Map p198; Triunfo 350; h10am-late; W) If you of drinks being spiked. The tried-and-true
E ntertainment

stops on the big night out in Cuzco are dis-

u zco

are thirsty for an Old Speckled Hen, visit the

most established expat and traveler water-
ing hole in town. This typical British pub has
all the trappings, with leather barstools and
dark wood. As well as a long list of imported
beer, it offers good-value comfort food.
The Frogs PUB
(Map p198; Huarancalqui 185) Gloriously glam-
orous and run by high-profile hipsters, the
Frogs offers a bit of everything. There’s cafe
service from breakfast until 11pm, nightly
live music (ranging from acoustic to reggae
and funk), billiards, beanbags, fairy lights
and hookah pipes. Open early till late.
cotecas Inka Team, Roots and Ukuku’s.
oUkuku’s LIVE MUSIC
(%24-2951; Plateros 316; h8pm-late) The most
consistently popular nightspot in town,
Ukuku’s plays a winning combination of
crowd pleasers – Latin and Western rock,
reggae and reggaetón (a blend of Puerto Ri-
can bomba, dancehall and hip-hop), salsa,
hip-hop etc – and often hosts live bands.
Usually full to bursting after midnight with
as many Peruvians as foreign tourists, it’s
good, sweaty, dance-a-thon fun. Happy hour
is 8pm to 10:30pm.
226

MUSEO DEL PISCO

When you have had your fill of colonial religious art, you may want to investigate the
new pisco museum (Map p198; %26-2709; museodelpisco.org; Santa Catalina Ancha 398;
h11am-1am), where the wonders of the national drink are extolled, exalted and – of
course – sampled. Opened recently by an enthusiastic expat, this museum-bar is Pisco
101, combined with a tapas and sushi lounge. Ambitions go far beyond the standard
pisco sour, although those do border on perfection. Then there’s the mixologist whip-
ping up original cocktails like valicha, pisco with jungle fruit kion, spearmint and tart
apple. Tapas like delicious alpaca miniburgers on sesame buns and tiradito marinated in
cumin-chile sate your hunger. Look for special tastings and master distiller classes an-
nounced on the Facebook page.

Muse, Too LIVE MUSIC Mama Africa CLUB

(Map p198; %984-76-2602; Tandapata 710; h8am-
late) A good option for live entertainment,
it’s the laid-back San Blas version of the
center’s iconic cafe-bar. Muse, Too serves up
fresh, funky food through the day, big-screen
sport and movies in the afternoon, and live
music and cocktails at night.
Centro Qosqo de »
Arte Nativo PERFORMING ARTS
(Map p204; %22-7901; Av El Sol 604; admission with
boleto turístico) Has live nightly performances
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
(Map p198; Portal Harinas 191, 2nd fl; h7pm-late)
A favorite with Israelis, Mama Africa is
the classic backpackers’ hangout, usually
packed with people sprawled across cush-
ions or swaying to rock and reggae rhythms.
Happy hour is 8:30pm to 11pm.
7 Shopping
San Blas – the plaza itself, Cuesta San Blas,
Carmen Alto, and Tandapata east of the
plaza – offers Cuzco’s best shopping. It’s the
artisan quarter, packed with the workshops

of Andean music and dance at 6:45pm.

Km 0 LIVE MUSIC
(Map p198; %23-6009; Tandapata 100; h11am-late
Tue-Sat, 5pm-late Sun & Mon) This convivial bar
just off Plaza San Blas has a bit of everything.
It serves good Thai food in the evening, and
there’s live music late every night – local mu-
sicians come here to jam after their regular
gigs. Happy hour is 9pm to midnight.
Muse LIVE MUSIC
(Map p198; %25-3631, 984-23-1717; Triunfo 338,
2nd fl; W) Known as a good place to start your
S hopping
and showrooms of local craftspeople. Some
offer the chance to watch artisans at work
and see the interiors of colonial buildings
while hunting down that perfect souve-
nir. Prices and quality vary greatly, so shop
around and expect to bargain, except in the
most expensive stores, where prices are often
fixed. Some of the best-known include Taller
Olave (Map p198; %23-1835; Plaza San Blas 651),
which sells reproductions of colonial sculp-
tures and pre-colonial ceramics. Taller Men-
divil (%23-3247); San Blas (Map p198; Cuesta de
San Blas, Plaza San Blas); city center (Map p198; cnr

night out, this restaurant lounge, a longtime Hatunrumiyoc & Choquechaca) is nationally fa-
u zco

Cuzco hangout, has very cool staff and live
music in the evenings. Food includes good
vegetarian options.
Inka Team CLUB
(Map p198; Portal de Carnes 298; h8pm-late)
Though it may change names, this place
usually has the most up-to-the-minute elec-
tronic music collection, with trance, house
and hip-hop mixed in with mainstream.
There are chill-out sofas upstairs but this
isn’t the place for chat. A good mix of locals
and tourists hang out here. Happy hour is
9pm to midnight.
mous for its giraffe-necked religious figures
and sun-shaped mirrors, and Taller and Mu-
seo Mérida (Map p198; %22-1714; Carmen Alto
133) offers striking earthenware statues that
straddle the border between craft and art.
The same area is also home to an ever-
evolving sprinkling of jewelry stores and
quirky, one-off designer-clothes stores – a
refreshing reminder that the local aesthetic
is not confined to stridently colored pon-
chos and sheepskin-rug depictions of Ma-
chu Picchu. These and other mass-produced
tourist tat from textiles to teapots are sold
from pretty much every hole-in-the-wall in
the historic center, and at the vast Centro

Artesenal Cuzco (Map p204; cnr Avs El Sol &
Tullumayo; h9am-10pm).
If you’re the type who likes to get your
souvenir shopping done fast, Aymi Wasi
(Nueva Alta s/n) is for you. It’s got everything –
clothes, ornaments, toys, candles, jewelry,
art, ceramics, handbags… Your friends and
family will never suspect you bought all
their gifts in one place! And it’s all hand-
made and fair trade.
Cuzco is not known for its clothes-shop-
ping, though there are a few cool stores
hidden away in the Centro Comercial de
Cuzco (Map p198; cnr Ayacucho & San Andrés;
h11am-10pm).
Tatoo (Map p198; %25-4211; Calle del Medio
130; h9am-9:30pm) has brand-name outdoor
clothing and technical gear at high prices.
Many shops in Calle Plateros and Mercado
El Molino have a good range of lower-quali-
ty, much cheaper gear.
Textiles
Centro de Textiles »
Tradicionales del Cuzco HANDICRAFTS
(Map p204; %22-8117; www.textilescusco.org; Av
El Sol 603A; h7:30am-8:30pm Mon-Sat, 8:30am-
8:30pm Sun) This nonprofit organization,
founded in 1996, promotes the survival
of traditional weaving. You may be able to
catch a shop-floor demonstration illustrat-
ing different weaving techniques in all their
finger-twisting complexity. Products for sale
are high end.
Inkakunaq Ruwaynin HANDICRAFTS
(Map p198; %26-0942; www.tejidosandinos.com;
inside CBC, Tullumayo 274; h9am-7pm) This
weaving cooperative with quality goods is
run by 12 mountain communities from Cuz-
co and Apurimac; it’s at the far end of the in-
ner courtyard. There’s also an online catalog.
Casa Ecológica HANDICRAFTS
(Map p198; %25-5646; www.casaecologicacusco.
com; Triunfo 393; h9am-9pm Mon-Sun) Hand-
made textiles from 29 communities as far
away as Ausangate, plus homemade jams
and essential oils.
Markets
Mercado San Pedro MARKET
(Map p204; Plazoleta San Pedro) Cuzco’s central
market is a must-see. Pig heads for caldo
(soup), frogs (to enhance sexual perform-
ance), vats of fruit juice, roast lechón (suck-
ling pig) and tamales are just a few of the
foods on offer. Around the edges are typical
22 7
clothes, spells, incense and other random
products to keep you entertained for hours.
Mercado Modelo de Huanchac MARKET
(Map p204; cnr Avs Garcilaso & Huascar). Less
touristy and just as interesting, Huanchac is
the local destination of choice for breakfast
the morning after, specializing in the two
hangover staples – jolting acid ceviche and
greasy chicharrones.
El Molino MARKET
(off Map p204; Urbanizacion Ttio) Just beyond
the terminal terrestre, this market is Cuz-
co’s answer to the department store. Even
more congested than San Pedro, it’s a bar-
gain hunter’s paradise for clothes, house-
wares, bulk food and alcohol, electrodomés-
ticos (electronic goods), camping gear, and
pirated CDs and DVDs.
8 Information
Bookstores
Many guesthouses, cafes and pubs have book
exchanges. The best source of historical and
archaeological information about the city and
the surrounding area is the pocket-sized Explor-
ing Cuzco by Peter Frost.
Recommended bookstores include the
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
following:
Bookstore Kiosk (Map p198; Mantas 113;
h9am-2pm & 4-9pm Mon-Sat) Novels and
magazines in English and German. Located just
inside the door of Centro Comercial.
Jerusalén (Map p198; Heladeros 143; h10am-
2pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat) Cuzco’s most extensive
public book exchange (two used books, or one
plus S8, will get you one book) plus used guide-
books, new titles and music CDs for sale.
SBS Bookshop (Map p204; Av El Sol 781A;
h9am-9pm Mon-Sat) Small, but specializes in
foreign-language books, especially in English.
8 u zco
Dangers & Annoyances
Most travelers will experience few problems in
Cuzco. Most crimes reported are bags stolen
from the backs of chairs in public places, or
from overhead shelves in overnight buses. Walk
around with a minimum of cash and belongings.
If you keep your bag in your lap and watch out
for pickpockets in crowded streets, transport
terminals and markets, you are highly unlikely to
be a victim of crime in Cuzco.
Robberies and even rapes in cabs have been
reported. Use only official taxis, especially at
night. (Look for the company’s lit telephone
number on top of the car.) Lock your doors from
the inside, and never allow the driver to admit a
second passenger.
228
Avoid walking by yourself late at night or very
early in the morning. Revelers returning late
from bars or setting off for the Inca Trail before
sunrise are particularly vulnerable to ‘choke
and grab’ attacks. For tips on avoiding theft and
other common scams, see p537.
Don’t buy drugs. Dealers and police often work
together and Procuradores is one of several
areas in which you can make a drug deal and get
busted all within a couple of minutes. Drink spik-
ing has been reported. Women especially should
try not to let go of their glass or accept drinks
from strangers.
Take care not to overexert yourself during
your first few days if you’ve flown in from lower
elevations, such as Lima. You may find yourself
quickly becoming winded while traipsing up and
down Cuzco’s narrow streets. For more advice
on altitude sickness, see p552.
Embassies & Consulates
Most foreign embassies and consulates are
located in Lima (p532). The following are honor-
ary consul representatives in Cuzco:
Belgium (%25-1278)
France (%23-3610)
Germany (%23-5459)
Italy (%22-4398)
UK (%23-9974)
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
USA (%984-62-369)
Emergency
Policía de Turismo (PolTur, Tourist Police;
%23-5123; Plaza Túpac Amaru s/n; h24hr) If
you have something stolen, you’ll need to see
these guys to get an official police report for
insurance claims.
Immigration
Oficina de Migraciónes (Immigration Office;
Map p204; %22-2741; www.digemin.com.pe;
Av El Sol 612; h8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) Can
renew tourist visas and replace a lost Tarjeta
Andina (tourist card) – be prepared for a lot of
8 u zco
red tape.
Internet Access
Internet cafes are found on almost every street
corner. Many hotels and cafes offer free wireless.
Internet Resources
Andean Travel Web (www.andeantravelweb.
com) More than 1000 pages of information and
recommendations.
Diario del Cusco (www.diariodelcusco.com)
Online edition of the local newspaper (Spanish-
language).
Municipalidad del Cusco (www.municusco.
gob.pe) The city’s official website.
Jack’s Guide (www.jacksguide.com) Good
bilingual information for visitors and calendar
of events.
L aundry
Lavanderías (laundries) will wash, dry and fold
your clothes from around S3 per kg. They’re
every­where, but cluster just off the Plaza de Ar-
mas on Suecia, Procuradores and Plateros, and
on Carmen Bajo in San Blas. The further you get
from the Plaza de Armas, the cheaper they get.
Left Luggage
If you’re going trekking for a few days or even
just on an overnight excursion, any hostel will
store your bags for free. Always get a receipt,
and lock your bags. The bags should have iden-
tifying tags showing your name and the drop-off
and expected pickup dates. For soft-sided bags,
we recommend placing them inside a larger
plastic bag and sealing them shut with tape.
Then sign your name across the seal, so that
you can tell if your bag has been opened while
you were away. It’s best to keep all valuables (eg
passport, credit cards, money) on your person.
Trekkers are required to carry their passport
with them on the Inca Trail.
Medical Services
Pharmacies abound along Av El Sol. Cuzco’s
medical facilities are limited; head to Lima for
serious procedures.
Clinica Pardo (%24-0997; Av de la Cultura
710; h24hr) Well equipped and expensive –
perfect if you’re covered by travel insurance.
Clínica Paredes (Map p204; %22-5265;
Lechugal 405; h24hr) Consultations S60.
Hospital Regional (%23-9792, emergencies
%22-3691; Av de la Cultura s/n; h24hr) Public
and free, but wait times can be long and good
care is not guaranteed.
Traveler’s Clinic Cusco (%22-1213; Puputi
148; h24hr) A private clinic with swift bilingual
service and on-call doctor, deals mostly with
altitude sickness patients and travelers’ ill-
nesses. It’s a 10 minute walk from San Blas.
Money
ATMs abound in and around the Plaza de Armas,
and are also available at the airport, Huanchaq
train station and the bus terminal. All accept Visa,
most accept MasterCard, and many will even al-
low you to withdraw from a foreign debit account.
There are several big bank branches on Av El Sol;
go inside for cash advances above daily ATM lim-
its. Casas de cambio (foreign-exchange bureaus)
give better exchange rates than banks, and are
scattered around the main plazas and especially
along Av El Sol. Moneychangers can be found
outside banks, but their rates aren’t much better
than casas de cambio and rip-offs are common.
Banco Continental (Map p198; Av El Sol 368;
h9:15am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-12:30pm
Sat)
BCP (Map p198; Av El Sol 189; h9am-6:30pm
Mon-Thu, to 7:30pm Fri, to 1pm Sat)

Interbank (Map p198; Av El Sol 380; h9am-
6:30pm Mon-Fri, 9:15am-12:30pm Sat)
Post
DHL (Map p204; %24-4167; Av El Sol 608;
h8:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Inter-
national express mail and package courier
services.
Main post office (Map p204; %22-4212; Av El
Sol 800; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat) General deliv-
ery (poste restante) mail is held here at the
main post office; bring proof of identity.
Tourist Information
Travel agencies are all too willing to help out with
travel arrangements – for a hefty commission,
of course. The following independent tourist
information centers are recommended:
DIRCETUR (Map p198; %22-3701; www.
dirceturcusco.gob.pe; Mantas 117; h8am-8pm
Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun) The official provider of
Cuzco tourism information. Well meaning but
motley and sporadic; iPerú is more informative.
Dirección Regional de Cultura Cusco (Map
p204; %58-2030; www.drc-cusco.gob.pe; Av
de la Cultura 238; h7:15am-6:30pm Mon-Sat)
The place in Cuzco to purchase Machu Picchu
entry tickets; closed on holidays.
iPerú (www.peru.travel) airport (%23-7364;
Aeropuerto, Main Hall; h6am-4pm); city center
(Map p198; %25-2974; Portal de Harinas 177,
Plaza de Armas; h8am-8pm) Excellent source
for tourist information for both the region and
entire country. Also has adjoining section of
guarded ATMs at plaza location.
South American Explorers Club (Map p198;
%24-5484; www.saexplorers.org; Atocsaycuchi
670; h9:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Gives
unbiased advice and sells information booklets,
including alternatives to the Inca Trail and Ama-
zon jungle adventures. SAE’s Cuzco clubhouse
has good-quality maps, books and brochures
for sale, a huge stock of travel information
and recommendations, wi-fi access, a book
exchange and rooms for rent. Weekly events
and limited volunteer information are available
to nonmembers.
8 Getting There & Away
Air
Most flights from Cuzco’s Aeropuerto Inter-
nacional Alejandro Velasco Astete (CUZ;
%22-2611) are in the morning, because climatic
conditions in the afternoon typically make land-
ings and takeoffs more difficult. If you have a
tight connection, it’s best to reserve the earliest
flight available, as later ones are more likely to
be delayed or canceled.
Several airlines offer daily flights to and from
Lima, Juliaca, Puerto Maldonado and Arequipa.
Check in at least two hours before your flight –
229
even people with confirmed seats and boarding
passes have been denied boarding because of
overbooking errors. During the rainy season,
flights in and out of Puerto Maldonado are often
seriously delayed. Departure taxes are included
in ticket prices.
Official taxis from the airport to addresses
near the city center cost S12 to S25.
The following airlines serve Cuzco:
LAN (Map p204; %25-5555; www.lan.com; Av
El Sol 627B; h8:30am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm
Sun)
Peruvian Airlines (Map p198; %25-4890;
www.peruvianairlines.pe; Calle del Medio 117;
h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-12pm Sun)
Star Perú (Map p204; % 01-705-9000; www.
starperu.com; Av El Sol 679; h9am-1pm &
3-6:30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-12:30pm Sun)
TACA (Map p204; % 0800-18-2222; www.taca.
com; Av El Sol 602; h9am-6pm)
Bus & Taxi
The journey times given here are only approxi-
mate and apply only if road conditions are good.
Long delays are likely during the rainy season,
particularly going to Puerto Maldonado or
towards Lima via Abancay. This road is now all
paved, but landslides can block the road in the
rainy season.
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
INTERNATIONAL
All international services depart from the ter-
minal terrestre (off Map p204; %22-4471, Vía
de Evitamiento 429), about 2km out of town
towards the airport. Take a taxi (S3). To get
there on foot, take Av El Sol. After it turns into
Alameda Pachacutec there is a pedestrian lane
in the middle of the road. Straight after the tower
and statue of Pachacutec, turn right, following
the railway lines into a side street, which reaches
the terminal in five minutes.
To get to Bolivia, catch Trans Salvador (%23-
3680), Littoral (%24-8989), Real Turismo
(%24-3540), or San Luis (%22-3647) to La Paz
8 u zco
via Copacabana; all depart at 10pm. Tour Peru
(%24-9977, www.tourperu.com.pe) offers the
best value service to Copacabana, departing at
8am daily. CIAL (%in Lima 01-330-4225) departs
at 10:30pm for La Paz via Desaguadero (S70, 12
hours). This is the quickest way to get to La Paz.
Ormeño (%26-1704; www.grupo-ormeno.
com.pe) travels to most South American
capitals.
LONG DISTANCE
Buses to major cities leave from the terminal
terrestre. Buses for more unusual destinations
leave from elsewhere, so check carefully in
advance.
Ormeño (%26-1704; www.grupo-ormeno.
com.pe) and Cruz del Sur (%24-3621;
2 30
CUZCO BUSES
DESTINATION COST* (SOLES)
Abancay 15-20
Arequipa 25/126
Ayacucho 65/95
Copacabana (Bolivia) 50/70
Ica 90/176
Juliaca 20-35
La Paz (Bolivia) 60/80
Lima 90/176
Nazca 90/180
Puerto Maldonado 50/70
Puno 20-40
Quillabamba 25-35
Tacna 60/125
*Prices are general estimates for normal/luxury buses
www.cruzdelsur.com.pe) have the safest and
most comfortable buses across the board. Of
the cheaper companies, Wari (%22-2694) and
especially Tour Peru have the best buses.
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
There are departures to Juliaca and Puno
every hour from 4am to 11pm, and at random
hours through the day. Cheap, slow options
include Power (%22-7777) and Libertad
(%950-018-836); these stop to let passengers
on and off along the way, so you can use them to
access towns along the route. Midrange-priced
Littoral (%23-1155) and CIAL (%965-401-414)
are faster and more comfortable.
The most enjoyable way to get to Puno is via
Inka Express (%24-7887; www.inkaexpress.
com; Av La Paz C32, El Óvalo) or Turismo Mer
(%24-5171; www.turismomer.com; Av La Paz
A3, El Óvalo), which run luxury buses every
morning. The service includes lunch and an
8 u zco
English-speaking tour guide, who talks about the
four sites that are briefly visited along the way:
Andahuaylillas, Raqchi, Abra la Raya and Pucará.
The trip takes about eight hours and costs
around S143.
Departures to Arequipa (S25 to S30, nine
hours) cluster around 6am to 7am and 7pm to
9:30pm. Ormeño offers a deluxe service at 9am.
Cruz del Sur, CIVA (%24-9961; www.civa.
com.pe) and Celtur (%23-6075) offer relatively
painless services to Lima. Wari is the best of
the cheaper options. Most buses to Lima stop
in Nazca (12 hours) and Ica (14 hours). These
buses go via Abancay and can suffer holdups in
rainy season. Between January and April, it may
DURATION (HRS)
5
9-11
14-16
15
14-15
5-6
12
18-22
14
11
6-7
6-7
17
be worth going via Arequipa (25 to 27 hours)
instead.
Buses depart every couple of hours through
the day for Abancay and Andahuaylas (S45, six
to eight hours). Celtur has slightly nicer buses
than other companies on this route. Change at
Andahuaylas to get to Ayacucho via rough roads
that get very cold at night. If you’re going to
Ayacucho by bus, wear all of your warm clothes
and if you have a sleeping bag, bring it onboard
the bus.
San Martín (%984-61-2520) and Expreso
Sagitário (%22-9757) offer direct buses to
Tacna (S70, 17 hours). Expreso Sagitário also
goes to Arequipa, Lima and Puno, and may be
more open to bargaining than other companies.
Various companies depart for Puerto Maldo-
nado between 3pm and 4:30pm; CIVA is prob-
ably the best option.
Buses to Quillabamba via Santa María leave
from the Santiago terminal, a brisk 20-minute
walk from the center. Around the corner in Calle
Antonio Lorena, many more companies offer
air-conditioned, speedy comfort in the form of
modern minivans that cost twice as much and
cut a couple of hours off the trip. There are de-
partures of both types of service at 8am, 10am,
1pm and 8pm. Change at Santa María to get to
Santa Teresa.
Transportes Siwar (off Map p204; Av Tito
Condemayta 1613) has buses to Ocongate and
Tinqui (S9, three hours), the start of the Ausan-
gante trek, leaving from behind the Coliseo
Cerrado several times a day.

Transportes Gallito de las Rocas (%22-
6895; Diagonal Angamos) buses depart to Pau-
cartambo (S9, three hours) daily and to Pilcopa-
ta (S20, 10 to 12 hours) Monday, Wednesday and
Friday at 5am. The office is on the first block off
Av de la Cultura; look for ‘Paucartambo’ painted
on a lamp post between auto shops.
REGIONAL SERVICES
In 2014, the government will restrict the use of
old colectivos; note that some of these services
may be cut or reduced in the future.
Minibuses to Calca (S6, 1½ hours) via Pisac
(S2.50, one hour) leave frequently from the
terminal at Tullumayo 207.
Minibuses to Urubamba (S8, 1½ hours) via
Pisac (S2.50, one hour) leave frequently from
the terminal in Puputi, just north of Av de la
Cultura.
Minibuses to Urubamba (S6, 1½ hrs) and Ol-
lantaytambo (S12, two hours) via Chinchero (S4,
one hour) leave from near the Puente Grau. Just
around the corner on Pavitos, faster colectivos
leave when full for Urubamba (S7, one hour) and
Ollantaytambo (S10-15, 1½ hours) via Chinchero.
Colectivos to Urcos (S5) via Tipón (S5), Piquil-
lacta (S5) and Andahuaylillas (S5) leave from
the middle of the street outside Tullumayo 207.
For S80 they’ll drive you into the ruins at Tipón
and Piquillacta, wait and bring you back.
You can also get to the these destinations, and
Saylla, by catching a minibus headed for Urcos
(S5) from a terminal just off Av de la Cultura
opposite the regional hospital. Shared taxis to
Lucre (S2.50, one hour) depart from Huascar,
between Av Garcilaso and Manco Capac, be-
tween 7am and 7pm.
Minibuses for Limatambo (S12, two hours)
and Curahuasi (S15, four hours) leave Arcopata
when full, a couple of blocks west of Meloc, until
about 3pm.
Unless otherwise stated, these services run
from at least 5am until 7pm. Early and late serv-
ices may charge more.
Car & Motorcycle
Given all the headaches and potential hazards
of driving yourself around, consider hiring a taxi
for the day – it’s cheaper than renting a car. If
you must, you’ll find a couple of car-rental agen-
cies in the bottom block of Av El Sol. Motorcycle
rentals are offered by a couple of agencies in the
first block of Saphi heading away from the Plaza
de Armas.
Train
Cuzco has two train stations. Estación
Huanchac (%58-1414; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri,
to midnight Sat & Sun), near the end of Av El
Sol, serves Juliaca and Puno on Lake Titicaca.
Estación Poroy, east of town, serves Ollan-
2 31
taytambo and Machu Picchu. The two stations
are unconnected, so it’s impossible to travel
directly from Puno to Machu Picchu. (Downtown
Estación San Pedro is used only for local trains,
which foreigners cannot board.)
You can take a taxi to Poroy (S30) or the sta-
tion in Ollantaytambo (S80) from Cuzco. Return
trips are slightly more expensive.
You can buy tickets at Huanchac station, and
there are ATMs in the station, but the easiest
way is directly through the train companies.
TO OLLANTAYTAMBO AND MACHU PICCHU
The only way to reach Aguas Calientes (and
access Machu Picchu) is via train. It takes about
three hours. Three companies currently offer the
service, the latter two only from Ollantaytambo:
»»Peru Rail (www.perurail.com; ticket office:
Portal de Panes 214, Plaza de Armas; h8am-
10pm) Formerly the only service to Aguas
Calientes, with multiple departures daily from
Estación Poroy, 20 minutes outside of Cuzco.
There are three levels of service: Expedition (from
US$144 roundtrip), Vistadome (from US$160
roundtrip) and the luxurious Hiriam Bingham
(from US$700 roundtrip). The Hiram Bingham
includes brunch, afternoon tea, entrance to
Machu Picchu and a guided tour. It runs daily
except Sunday.
»»Inca Rail (%23-3030; www.incarail.com;
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
Cuzco ticket office: Portal de Panes 105, Plaza de
Armas) New company with three departures daily
from Ollantaytambo and four levels of service
(roundtrip US$82-180). Children get a significant
discount. An environmentally sustainable practice
business.
»»Machu Picchu Train (Map p204; %22-1199;
www.machupicchutrain.com; Cuzco ticket office:
Av El Sol 576; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri, 7am-12pm
Sat) New service of panoramic-view trains,
traveling only from Ollantaytambo to Aguas
Calientes (roundtrip adult/child from US$100/70)
three times daily in high season. Breakfast or
8 u zco
snacks may be served.
Fares may vary according to departure hours:
more desirable times are usually more expen-
sive. It is common for trains to sell out, especial-
ly at peak hours, so buy your ticket as far ahead
of time as possible.
The quickest ‘cheaper’ way to get from Cuzco
to Aguas Calientes is to take a combi to Ollan-
taytambo and catch the train from there.
TO PUNO
Peru Rail (www.perurail.com; Estación Huan-
chac; ticket US$150; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri,
7am-12pm Sat) Andean Explorer, a luxury train
with a glass-walled observation car, goes to
Puno. Trains depart from Estación Huanchac at
8am, arriving at Puno around 6pm, on Monday,
2 32
Wednesday and Saturday from November to
March, with an extra departure on Friday from
April to October. Lunch is included. For more
information, see p178.
8 Getting Around
To/From the Airport
The airport is about 6km south of the city center.
The combi lines Imperial and C4M (S0.60, 20
minutes) run from Av El Sol to just outside the
airport. A taxi to or from the city center to the
airport costs S10. An official radio taxi from
within the airport costs S12 to S25. With advance
reservations, many hotels offer free pickup.
Bus
Local rides on public transportation cost only
S0.60, though it’s easier to walk or just take a
taxi than to figure out where any given combi is
headed.
Taxi
There are no meters in taxis, but there are set
rates. At the time of research, trips within the city
center cost S4, and to destinations further afield,
such as El Molino, were S8. Check with your hotel
whether this is still correct, and rather than negoti-
ate, simply hand the correct amount to your driver
at the end of your ride; he is unlikely to argue if
you seem to know what you’re doing. Official taxis,
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y A
identified by a lit company telephone number on
the roof, are more expensive than taxis flagged
down on the street, but they are safer.
Unofficial ‘pirate’ taxis, which only have a taxi
sticker in the window, have been complicit in
muggings, violent assaults and kidnappings of
tourists. Before getting into any taxi, do as savvy
locals do and take conspicuous note of the regis-
tration number.
AloCusco (%22-2222) is a reliable company
to call.
Tram
The Tranvia is a free-rolling tourist tram that con-
8 round C u zco
ducts a 1½ hour hop-on, hop-off city tour (S15). It
leaves at 8:30am, 10am, 11:30am, 2pm, 3:30pm,
5pm and 6:30pm from the Plaza de Armas.
AROUND CUZCO
The four ruins closest to Cuzco are Sac-
saywamán, Q’enqo, Pukapukara and Tam-
bomachay. They can all be visited in a day –
far less if you’re whisked through on a guid-
ed tour. If you only have time to visit one site,
Sacsaywamán is the most important, and
less than a 2km trek uphill from the Plaza de
Armas in central Cuzco.
The cheapest way to visit the sites is to
take a bus bound for Pisac and ask the driv-
er to stop at Tambomachay, the furthest site
from Cuzco (at 3700m, it’s also the highest).
It’s an 8km walk back to Cuzco, visiting all
four ruins along the way. Alternatively, a taxi
will charge roughly S40 to visit all four sites.
Each site can only be entered with the bo-
leto turístico. They’re open daily from 7am
to 6pm. Local guides hang around offering
their services, sometimes quite persistently.
Agree on a price before beginning any tour.
Robberies at these sites are uncommon
but not unheard of. Cuzco’s tourist police
recommend visiting between 9am and 5pm.
Sacsaywamán
This immense ruin of both religious and
military significance is the most impressive
in the immediate area around Cuzco. The
long Quechua name means ‘Satisfied Falcon,’
though tourists will inevitably remember
it by the mnemonic ‘sexy woman.’ Sacsay-
wamán feels huge, but what today’s visitor
sees is only about 20% of the original struc-
ture. Soon after the conquest, the Spaniards
tore down many walls and used the blocks to
build their own houses in Cuzco, leaving the
largest and most impressive rocks, especially
those forming the main battlements.
In 1536 the fort was the site of one of the
most bitter battles of the Spanish conquest.
More than two years after Pizarro’s entry
into Cuzco, the rebellious Manco Inca recap-
tured the lightly guarded Sacsaywamán and
used it as a base to lay siege to the conquis-
tadors in Cuzco. Manco was on the brink of
defeating the Spaniards when a desperate
last-ditch attack by 50 Spanish cavalry led by
Juan Pizarro, Francisco’s brother, succeeded
in retaking Sacsaywamán and putting an end
to the rebellion. Manco Inca survived and re-
treated to the fortress of Ollantaytambo, but
most of his forces were killed. Thousands of
dead littered the site after the Incas’ defeat,
attracting swarms of carrion-eating Andean
condors. The tragedy was memorialized by
the inclusion of eight condors in Cuzco’s coat
of arms.
The site is composed of three different
areas, the most striking being the magnifi-
cent three-tiered zigzag fortifications. One
stone, incredibly, weighs more than 300
tons. It was the ninth inca, Pachacutec, who
envisioned Cuzco in the shape of a puma,
with Sacsaywamán as the head, and these 22
zigzagged walls as the teeth of the puma. The
walls also formed an extremely effective de-
 233

MORE RUINS TO EXPLORE

Take any Pisac-bound transportation to reach these ruins, located just outside of Cuz-
co. Entry is included in the boleto turístico or the partial boleto; open daily 7am to 6pm.

Q’enqo
The name of this small but fascinating ruin means ‘zigzag.’ A large limestone rock, it’s
riddled with niches, steps and extraordinary symbolic carvings, including the zigzag-
ging channels that probably gave the site its name. Scramble up to the top to find a flat
surface used for ceremonies: look carefully to see laboriously etched representations of
a puma, a condor and a llama. Back below, you can explore a mysterious subterranean
cave with altars hewn into the rock. Q’enqo is about 4km northeast of Cuzco, on the left
of the road as you descend from Tambomachay.

Pukapukara
Just across the main road from Tambomachay, this commanding structure looks down
on the Cuzco valley. In some lights the rock looks pink, and the name literally means
‘Red Fort,’ though it is more likely to have been a hunting lodge, a guard post and a
stopping point for travelers. It is composed of several lower residential chambers, store-
rooms and an upper esplanade with panoramic views.

Tambomachay
In a sheltered spot about 300m from the main road, this site consists of a beautifully
wrought ceremonial stone bath channeling crystalline spring water through fountains
that still function today. It is thus popularly known as El Baño del Inca (The Bath of the
Inca), and theories connect the site to an Inca water cult. It’s 8km northeast of Cuzco.

Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y T

fensive mechanism that forced attackers to
expose their flanks when attacking.
Opposite is the hill called Rodadero, with
retaining walls, polished rocks and a finely
carved series of stone benches known as
the Inca’s Throne. Three towers once stood
above these walls. Only the foundations re-
main, but the 22m diameter of the largest,
Muyuc Marca, gives an indication of how big
they must have been. With its perfectly fit-
ted stone conduits, this tower was probably
used as a huge water tank for the garrison.
Other buildings within the ramparts provid-
Another option is to take a taxi tour
which also includes Q’enko, Pukapukara
and Tambomachay (S55).
THE SACRED VALLEY
Tucked under the tawny skirts of formidable
foothills, the beautiful Río Urubamba Val-
ley, known as El Valle Sagrado (The Sacred
Valley), is about 15km north of Cuzco as the
condor flies, via a narrow road of hairpin
turns. Long the home of attractive colonial
8 he S acred Valley

ed food and shelter for an estimated 5000
warriors. Most of these structures were torn
down by the Spaniards and later inhabitants
of Cuzco.
Between the zigzag ramparts and the
hill lies a large, flat parade ground that is
used for the colorful tourist spectacle of Inti
Raymi, held every June 24.
To walk up to the site from the Plaza de
Armas takes 30 to 50 minutes, so make sure
you’re acclimatized before attempting it.
Arriving at dawn will let you have the site
almost to yourself, though solo travelers
shouldn’t come alone at this time of day.
towns and isolated weaving villages, in re-
cent years it has become a destination in its
own right. Star attractions are the markets
and the lofty Inca citadels of Pisac and Ol-
lantaytambo, but the valley is also packed
with other Inca sites. Trekking routes are
deservedly gaining in popularity. Adrenaline
activities range from rafting to rock climb-
ing. Most activities can be organized in Cuz-
co or at some hotels in Urubamba.
A multitude of travel agencies in Cuzco
offer whirlwind tours of the Sacred Val-
ley, stopping at markets and the most sig-
nificant archaeological sites. If you have a
day or two to spare, spend it exploring this
peaceful, fetching corner of the Andes at
234

The Sacred Valley e

# 00 10 km
5 miles

To Abra Malaga pass (43km)

\
#
ä
‚
# Ollantaytambo
Ollantaytambo R Lares
‚ \
#
Nevado
Verónica
\
#
?
è
103

To Aguas (5750m)
Calientes (30km); ?
è
101
Machu Picchu
Urubamba Huarán
(38km) Salinas # Yucay
\
# \
#
æ
\
# \
# \
# Calca
Tarabamba \
#
Wayllabamba

Rí
#?
Moray ä è 108

o Ur
\
#
Chinchero

u
Maras m Pisac ä
#

ba
\
#
ä
# Chinchero ba
\
#
Huarocondo Patabamba \ Pisac
?
è
#
\
# 108

Anta #
\ Tambomachay ?
è
107
To Paucartambo
ä
#
(40km)‚
Saqsaywamán ä
# Pukapukara
?
è
26
?
è
3 ä
# # Q'enqo
ä
]
# ?
è
101
Cuzco ?
è
26
?
è
3

\
# Tipón
Saylla ä
# Huambutiyo
\
#

\
#
Piquillacta
Oropesa ä
#
Rumicolca

‚
To Andahuayillas (6.9km) ä
#

your own leisure. The archaeological sites of Pisac Ruins RUINS

Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y P

Pisac, Ollantaytambo and Chinchero can be
visited with a boleto turístico, which can be
bought directly onsite.
Pisac
% 084 / POP 900 / ELEV 2715M
It’s not hard to succumb to the charms of
sunny Pisac, a bustling colonial village at the
base of a spectacular Inca fortress perched on
a mountain spur. Its pull is universal and re-
cent years have seen an influx of expats and
new age followers in search of an Andean
T he
S
(admission with boleto turístico; hdawn-dusk)
This hilltop Inca citadel lies high above the
village on a triangular plateau with a plung-
ing gorge on either side. Though it’s a truly
awesome site, it gets relatively few tourists,
except midmorning on Sunday, Tuesday and
Thursday, when tour groups flood in.
The most impressive feature is the agri-
cultural terracing, which sweeps around
the south and east flanks of the mountain
in huge and graceful curves, almost entirely
unbroken by steps (which require greater
maintenance and promote erosion). Instead,

Shangri-la. Located just 33km northeast of the terracing is joined by diagonal flights of
ights
isac

Cuzco by a paved road, it’s the most conven- stairs made of flagstones set into the terrace
S acred

ient starting point to the Sacred Valley. walls. Above the terraces are cliff-hugging
footpaths, watched over by caracara falcons
& Activities

1 Sights & Activities and well defended by massive stone door-

Mercado de Artesania ways, steep stairs and a short tunnel carved
Valley

MARKET
Pisac is known far and wide for its market,
by far the biggest and most touristy in the
region. Official market days are Tuesday,
Thursday and Sunday, when tourist buses
descend on the town in droves. However, the
market has taken over Pisac to such an ex-
tent that it fills the Plaza de Armas and sur-
rounding streets every day; visit on Monday,
Wednesday, Friday or Saturday if you want
to avoid the worst of the crowds.
out of the rock. Vendors sell drinks at the
top.
This dominating site guards not only the
Urubamba Valley below, but also a pass lead-
ing into the jungle to the northeast. Topping
the terraces is the site’s ceremonial center,
with an intihuatana (literally ‘hitching
post of the sun’; an Inca astronomical tool),
several working water channels, and some
painstakingly neat masonry in the well-pre-

served temples. A path leads up the hillside
to a series of ceremonial baths and around
to the military area. Looking across the Kita-
mayo Gorge from the back of the site, you’ll
also see hundreds of holes honeycombing
the cliff wall. These are Inca tombs that
were plundered by huaqueros (grave rob-
bers), and are now completely off-limits to
tourists.
The site is large and warrants several
hours of your time. To walk there from town,
take the steep but spectacular 4km trail. It’s
about two hours up and 1½ hours back. It’s
highly worthwhile, but undeniably grueling:
recommended training for the Inca Trail!
Taking a taxi up and walking back is a good
option.
The footpath to the site starts from above
the west side of the church. There are many
crisscrossing trails, but if you keep heading
upward toward the terracing, you won’t get
lost. To the west, or the left of the hill as you
climb up on the footpath, is the Río Kita-
mayo Gorge; to the east, or right, is the Río
Chongo Valley.
Horno Colonial San Francisco LANDMARK
(Mariscal Castilla s/n; snacks S2.50; h6am-6pm)
Huge clay ovens for baking empanadas and
other goodies and castillos de cuyes (mini-
ature castles inhabited by guinea pigs) are
found in many nooks and crannies, par-
ticularly in Mariscál Castilla. But this is the
town’s most authentic – a colonial oven dat-
ing back to 1830. Stop in for hot cheese and
oregano empanadas with chicha morada.
TAXI TOURS
If you are short on time to see the
sights outside Cuzco, consider taking a
taxi tour. Particularly if you have two or
more people, they can be a good deal,
and also allow you to take your time (or
not) visiting various ruins and markets.
From Cuzco, a tour of the Sacred Valley
(possibly including Pisac, Ollantaytam-
bo, Chinchero, Maras and Moray) runs
S120 to S150 (for the whole car); to the
Southern Valley (with options to Tipón,
Pikillacta and Raqcchi) costs around
S90 to S170.
One reliable option is Virgin Es-
trella Taxi Tours (%973-195-551, 974-
955-374) in Cuzco.
235
If, for some strange reason, you only have
five minutes in Pisac, spend it here – you’ll
get a pretty good feel for the place.
Jardín Botanico GARDENS
(%63-5563; Grau, cuadra 4; admission S6; h8am-
4:30pm) While you are wandering town, it’s
worth popping in to the botanical garden, a
private enterprise with a huge courtyard full
of beautiful specimens and a resident cat.
Club Royal Inka SWIMMING
(admission S10; h8am-4pm) Ideal for families,
this private recreation area is a fabulous
place to while away an afternoon. A day pass
allows access to an Olympic-sized indoor
pool that’s decked with fountains, grassy ar-
eas and an ornamental duck pond. There’s
also a restaurant, a trout pond and facilities
for barbecues, billiards, table tennis, volley-
ball, tennis and sapo (see p225).
It’s about 1.5km out of town.
La Capilla CHURCH
In recent times, the INC (Instituto Nacional
de Cultura), in a characteristically contro-
versial move, demolished the church in the
main square in order to reconstruct it in
colonial style. Masses, which have moved
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y P
to a nearby chapel, are worth visiting. On
Sunday, a Quechua-language mass is held
at 11am.
Traditionally dressed locals descend from
the hills to attend, including men in tradi-
tional highland dress blowing horns and
varayocs (local authorities) with silver staffs
of office.
Amaru VILLAGE
If you are interested in textiles, it’s worth
visiting this weaving community that’s a
40-minute trip by taxi.
z Festivals & Events
FT estivals
he
isac
La Virgen del Carmen FESTIVAL
S acred& Valley
Street processions and masked dancing
mark the celebration of ‘Mamacha Carmen’
who defeats demons climbing on rooftops
E vents
and balconies. This renowned celebration
of the Virgin of Carmen takes place from
around July 15 to July 18.
4 Sleeping
Pisac had become a new-age hub of sorts.
Foreign-run mystical and spiritual retreats
on the outskirts of town offer packages with
shamanic ceremonies; some are vastly more
commercial than others.
2 36

Pisac e
# 00 100 m
0.05 miles Pisac
A
To Casa del
‚ B
æ Sights

6
Conde (500m);
1 Horno Colonial San Francisco ............B1
Path to Pisac
Ruins (3km);
#3
ÿ 1 2 Jardin Botanico ...................................B1

6
Church
1 La Capilla #
Ü æ
# 1
#
Ü ÿ Sleeping
Mariscal Castilla
Plaza
3 Hospedaje Beho ..................................B1
ì de Armas
ATM #

6
2 4 Hospedaje Kinsa Ccocha .................. B2
San Francisco ÿ #6 7 #ú #
æ 5 Hotel Pisac Inca.................................. B2
#
11 ú 8ú#
Arequipa 6 Pisac Inn ..............................................B1

6
#4
ÿ
Manuel Prado

#5
ÿ Bolognesi ú Eating
Vigil 7 Mullu ...................................................B1

Grau
Espinar

2 2
8 Prasada .............................................. B2
Callao Restaurante Cuchara de Palo..... (see 6)
9 Restaurante Valle Sagrado................ A3
14 ˜
#
To Urubamba 10 Restaurante Yoly................................ B3
‚
(36km) onas #
10 ú 11 Ulrike's Café ....................................... A2
Amaz ›# ‚
ú9
# 13 # To Club Royal
12 › ï Transport
Inka (1.5km)
Royal Inka Hotel 12 Buses.................................................. B3
mba Pisac (1.5km) 3
3 R ío Uruba 13 Buses to Cuzco .................................. A3
14 Taxis to Ruins ..................................... B2
To Cuzco
(33km)
‚
A B
Hospedaje Kinsa Ccocha HOTEL $
(%20-3101; Arequipa 307A; s/d S50/70, s/d with-
out bathroom S25/50) With a fertile fig tree in
oHotel Pisac Inca
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y P

GUESTHOUSE $
(%43-6921; www.hotelpisacinca.com; Vigil 242;
its stony patio, this simple lodging has a nice
s/d S35/70, s/d/tr without bathroom S25/50/75;
vibe and thoughtful touches, such as plenty
iW) Sisters Tatiana and Claudia run this
of power plugs, good towels and strong, hot
small, cheerful lodging with a handful of showers. Breakfast is not offered.
colorful rooms around a tiny courtyard. Royal Inka Hotel Pisac HOTEL $$
Kitchen use is extra but it’s a steal. (%20-3064, 20-3066; www.royalinkahotel.com;
s/d incl breakfast S154/212; Ws) Once a large
Pisac Inn INN $$
(%20-3062; www.pisacinn.com; Plaza de Armas;
hacienda, this hotel is surprisingly unpreten-
d incl breakfast from S146; iW) This lovely pla-
tious. Rooms are generous, many with views
za hotel features an inviting courtyard and of the ruins, surrounded by well-tended flow-
romantic rooms with goose down bedding, er gardens and conservatories. Guests can
dark blue walls and Andean decor. Rooms access the facilities of Club Royal Inka across
the road, plus the on-site spa and Jacuzzi.
T he
S

with king-sized beds are a slight upgrade.

leeping
isac

The location means it may get noisy early The wi-fi only works in some areas.
A highly worthwhile splurge, located about
S acred Valley

when merchants are setting up outside. Ger-

man, English and French are spoken.
La Casa del Conde GUESTHOUSE $$
(%78-7818; www.cuzcovalle.com; s/d S50/70, s/d/
tr incl breakfast S119/159/212; W) Guests rave
about this lovely country house, nestled into
the foothills with blooming flower patches.
Family-run and brimming with personality,
its lovely rooms feature down duvets, heat
and cable TV. There’s no car access. It’s a
10-minute walk uphill from the plaza, but a
mototaxi can leave you at the chapel that’s
five minutes away.
1.5km from the plaza up the road to the ruins.
Hospedaje Beho GUESTHOUSE $
(%20-3001; artesaniasbeho@yahoo.es; Intihua-
tana 113; s/d/tr S35/70/105, s/d without bathroom
S20/40) On the path to the ruins, this family-
run handicrafts shop offers no-frills lodging
with warm showers. The raggedy, rambling
garden is a tranquil haven from the mad-
ness of the market streets just outside.
Club Royal Inka CAMPGROUND $
(%20-3064, 20-3066, camping per person S20; s)
Camping doesn’t get any better than this.
 2 37

COMMUNITY TOURISM IN THE SACRED VALLEY

In recent times, rural communities of the valley have become far more accessible to visi-
tors. While usually hospitable to passersby, they feature little infrastructure for visitors,
so it’s best to organize a visit in advance. Some great options include:
La Tierra de los Yachaqs (%971-502-223; www.yachaqs.com) A rural tourism network.
Guests visit Andean communities, trek to highland lakes and learn about natural medi-
cine and artisan traditions.
Parque de la Papa (%084-24-5021; www.parquedelapapa.org; Pisac) Day treks and cook-
ing workshops are some of the offerings of this new nonprofit which promotes potato
diversity and communal farming.
For a guided trip to visit traditional communities, check out these recommended opera-
tors: Journey Experience (www.thejoex.com), Chaski Ventura (www.chaskiventura.
com) and Respons (www.respons.org).

For S20, you get to pitch a tent in your own bites like tacos and oversized lentil burgers –
designated, fenced-off site with a fireplace, a good bang for the buck.
a light and a power plug, and enjoy all the
amenities of the club, including the Olympic- Restaurante Yoly PERUVIAN $

size pool. There is also a playground for kids.
5 Eating
Ulrike’s Café CAFE $
(%20-3195; Manuel Prado s/s; veg/meat menú
S17/20, mains from S11; h9am-9pm; Wv)
(%20-3114; Amazonas s/n; menú S4; h6am-
8:30pm) Popular with locals, this bare-bones
restaurant offers home cooking in set meals
with soup and drink included.
Restaurante Valle Sagrado PERUVIAN $
(%20-3009; Amazonas s/n; menú S6-15; h8am-

Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y P

This sunny cafe serves up a great vegetar-
ian menú, plus homemade pasta and melt-
in-the-mouth cheesecake and brownies.
There’s a book exchange, DVDs and special
events such as yoga classes. English, French
and German are spoken.
Mullu FUSION $$
(%20-3073; www.mullu.pe; San Francisco s/n, 2nd
fl; mains S14-44; h9am-9pm) Josip welcomes
his guests with high-octane hospitality and a
menu of wanderlust (think Thai meets Ama-
zonian and flirts with highland Peruvian).
Chill and very welcoming, the traditional
9pm) The menú turistico here is somewhat
fancier; if you want to eat what the locals are
eating (and pay only what they are paying),
order the basic menú.
8 Information
There’s an ATM in the Plaza de Armas. There are
slow cybercafes around the plaza and a mini-
supermarket on Bolognesi.
8 Getting There & Away
Buses to Urubamba (S2.50, one hour) leave
frequently from the downtown bridge between
T he
E ating
isac

lamb is tender to falling-off-the-bone, soups 6am and 8pm. Minibuses to Cuzco (S3.50, one
hour) leave from Calle Amazonas when full.
S acred

and fusion spring rolls also satisfy.

Many travel agencies in Cuzco also operate tour
to U rubamba

Restaurante Cuchara » buses to Pisac, especially on market days.

de Palo INTERNATIONAL $$ For the Pisac ruins, minivans (S25-30 per van)
Valley

(%20-3062; Plaza de Armas; mains S15-38; h7:30-
9:30am & noon-8pm) Inside Pisac Inn, this
fine-dining restaurant offers organic salads
and original dishes like pumpkin ravioli
drizzled with corn and cream. It doesn’t al-
ways hit the mark but it has great ambience.
Prasada VEGETARIAN $
(Arequipa 306; mains S7-12; h11am-5pm Tue-Sun;
v) This humble cafe serves quick, healthy
near the plaza leave regularly or hire a taxi from
near the bridge into town to drive you up the
7.5km paved road.
Pisac to Urubamba
Between Pisac and Urubamba is a series
of pretty villages (as well as the nontour-
isty but fairly uninteresting town of Calca),
which can easily be explored in a day. Yucay
and Huarán offer boutique accommodation
238

GREENHOUSE
For a stint of serious relaxation, stay at this recommended country inn (%984-770-
130; www.thegreenhouseperu.com; Km 60.2 Carretera Pisac–Ollantaytambo, Huarán; s/d/tr
S165/210/335; iW), replete with dogs lounging on their pillows and hammocks in the
lush garden. Large rooms are well-appointed and afford complete privacy. The social
area is an open living-dining room with a glass wall on the garden. As green as its name,
it features solar panels, composting and recycling, uses recycled river water for garden-
ing and offers guests water refills. Gabriel and Bryan play the ultimate hosts: recom-
mending local hikes, turning off the internet during daytime hours to increase your
unplugged time, and creating fabulous family dinners (S45) that gather guests around
a common table.

and food options, and make excellent bases
for leisurely exploration of the safe, scenic
Sacred Valley and its many intriguing side
valleys.
A visit to the community of Patabamba
offers a fascinating participative demon-
stration of the weaving process, all the way
from picking the plants to making dyes,
to shearing sheep and setting up a loom –
with explanations of the meanings of colors
and patterns. There are also excellent trek-
king options. Campsites and homestays are
available with advance notice. Prices vary
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y U
a convenient base from which to explore the
extraordinary salt flats of Salinas and the
terracing of Moray.
Since Urubamba is quite spread out, the
mode of transport of choice are mototaxis
(three-wheeled motorcycle rickshaw taxis).
The Plaza de Armas is five blocks east and
four blocks north of the terminal, bounded
by Calle Comercio and Jirón Grau.
1 Sights & Activities
Many outdoor activities that are organized
from Cuzco (see p210) take place near here,

wildly, depending on group size and trans-
port needed. Both Journey Experience
(%084-60-1203; www.thejoex.com) and Chaski
Ventura (%23-3952; www.chaskiventura.com;
Manco Cápac 517; overnight with 3 meals S156 per
including horseback riding, rock climbing,
mountain biking, paragliding and hot-air
balloon trips.
Perol Chico HORSE RIDING

person) offer visits. (%984-62-4475; www.perolchico.com; overnight

In Huarán, adventure tour operator Mu-
naycha (%984-770-381; www.munaycha.com;
Km 60.2 Carretera Pisac–Ollantaytambo, Huarán)
comes highly recommended. Among other
trips, it guides Lares treks, as well as more
local options, and a variety of mountain
bike trips. We have heard rave reviews about
T he
S
packages from US$510) This place is run by
Dutch-Peruvian Eduard van Brunschot
Vega, with an excellent ranch outside Uru-
bamba with Peruvian paso horses. Eduard
organizes horseback-riding tours that last
up to two weeks. An overnight in the Sacred
Valley with rides to Salinas, Maras and Mo-

trek-bike combinations to Huaipo Lake near ray includes all meals and luxury accommo-
ights
rubamba

Chinchero. dations. Advance bookings are required.

S acred

Buses running between Pisac and Uru- Cusco for You HORSE RIDING
bamba pass regularly.
& Activities

(%79-5301, 987-841-000; www.cuscoforyou.com;

day trip US$165) Highly recommended for
Valley

horseback-riding and trekking trips from

Urubamba
% 084 / POP 2700 / ELEV 2870M
A busy and unadorned urban center, Uru-
bamba is a transport hub surrounded by bu-
colic foothills and snowy peaks. The advan-
tages of its lower altitude and relative prox-
imity to Machu Picchu make it popular with
both high-end hotels and package tours.
While there is little of historical interest,
nice countryside and great weather make it
one to eight days long. Horseback riding
day trips go to Moray and Salinas. Ask about
special rates for families and groups.
4 Sleeping
A new hub of luxury hotels, Urubamaba has
surprisingly few mid-to-low end offerings.
Most hotels are lined up along the highway,
west of town and the bus terminal, on the
way to Ollantaytambo.

oLas Chullpas CABINS $$
(%20-1568; www.chullpas.pe; Pumahuanca Valley;
s/d/tr/q S120/150/180/220; iW) Hidden 3km
above town, these rustic woodland cottages
make for the perfect getaway. Rooms fea-
ture comfortable beds and fireplaces. The
site, nestled among thick eucalyptus trees,
is spread out with inviting pathways and
lounge areas with hammocks. There is also
an open kitchen serving vegetarian food,
holistic treatments and a sweat lodge (avail-
able on request).
Much of the food is grown organically on
site, and efforts are made towards compost-
ing and recycling. The affable Chilean owner
also guides treks, especially to the Lares Val-
ley. Highly recommended. Come with good
directions, the roads are unmarked and not
all taxi drivers know it.
Río Sagrado Hotel LUXURY HOTEL $$$
(%20-1631; www.riosagradohotel.com; d incl
breakfast from S1311; iW) A design haven of
cottage-style rooms with rough-hewn beams
and exquisite accents of Ayacucho embroi-
dery, this Orient Express property is the
epitome of understated luxury. The steep
hillside location affords privacy for rooms
set on terraced pathways perfumed with jas-
mine blooms. Or enjoy the river view from
hammocks set amidst cascading waterfalls.
Service is smooth and top-notch.
Facilities include a spa, hot tubs, a sauna,
restaurant, and breakfast in a hot-air bal-
loon suspended above the lawn.
K’uychi Rumi BUNGALOW $$$
(%20-1169; www.urubamba.com; d/q S470/810;
iW) ‘Rainbow Stone’ in Quechua, this
walled compound of two-story cottages
tucked into gardens offers a lost retreat. It’s
family-friendly and popular among Euro-
pean travelers. There are various configura-
tions, but most are two-bedroom with kitch-
enette, fireplace and terrace balcony, linked
by a labyrinthine trail with hummingbirds
zipping around and very friendly dogs that
guard the property. It’s between Km 74 and
Km 75 on the main highway, more than 2km
west of town.
Sol y Luna BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(%20-1620; www.hotelsolyluna.com; Fundo Huin-
cho lote A-5; iWs) A bit of a living fairytale,
this luxury property runs wild with whimsy.
Fans of folk art will be overwhelmed – its
43 casitas feature original murals and com-
ic, oversized sculptures by noted Peruvian
2 39
artist Federico Bauer. The playful feel spills
over to bold tropical hues and a decor of
carved wooden beds, freestanding tubs and
dainty rod-iron chandeliers.
French-Swiss owned, it all conspires to
charm you. Avant-garde circus productions
with former Cirque de Soleil artists provide
evening entertainment. For daytime fun, Pe-
ruvian paso horses can be ridden on the fif-
teen hectares and beyond. With eccentric at-
mosphere, its acclaimed restaurant Wayra is
the creation of Lima’s Malabar-famed chef,
there’s also a more casual open-air offering
featuring food tours and chef visits.
Tambo del Inka LUXURY HOTEL $$$
(%58-1777; www.libertador.com.pe; d from US$689;
iWs) Just like Hogwarts, Tambo del Inca
features its own train station – handy in this
case for a morning jaunt to Machu Picchu.
Stark and commanding, this Leed-certified
hotel (with its own water treatment plant
and UV air filters) occupies an immense riv-
erside spread dotted with giant eucalyptus
trees.
The resource does not go unnoticed: euca-
lyptus is a staple of interior decor and even
spa treatments. The hotel’s best features: the
chromo-therapeutic indoor-outdoor pool
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y U
which changes colors at night, and a hip-
ster lounge with round tables with leather
armchairs, backlit by an immense mural of
fractured onyx. Rooms are appealing and
comfortable, but it seems a little cheeky that
standards like breakfast and wi-fi cost extra.
Los Jardines HOTEL $
(%20-1331; www.los-jardines-urubamba.com; Jr
Convención 459; s/d S56/80) Noted for its very
accommodating service, this reader-recom-
mended family hotel occupies a large adobe
home surrounded by flower gardens. Rooms
T he
S
are basic but clean, some feature large pic-
leeping
rubamba
ture windows. The buffet breakfast served
S acred Valley
in the garden is extra. It’s within walking
distance of the plaza.
Hostal los Perales GUESTHOUSE $
(%20-1151; ecolodgeurubamba.com; Pasaje Are-
nales 102; r per person S25) Tucked down a hid-
den country lane, this welcoming family-run
guesthouse offers good-value, basic rooms
around lovely overgrown gardens. Its elderly
owners are sweet, serving banana pancakes
and sacha tomato jam from their own tree
for breakfast. It’s easy to get lost, so take a
mototaxi (S1) from the terminal.
24 0
Casa Andina LUXURY HOTEL $$$
(%in Lima 1-213-9739; www.casa-andina.com; d incl
breakfast S555; iW) In a lovely countryside
setting, this Peruvian chain has 92 rooms
in townhouse-style buildings on manicured
lawns. The main lobby and restaurant oc-
cupies an inviting high-ceiling glass lodge.
Classic rooms offer standard amenities and
plasma TVs. Among activities are riding,
biking and visits to Maras and Moray.
Los Cedros CAMPGROUND $
(%20-1416; campsites per person S8, house from
S265) A pastoral campground around 4km
above the city on winding country roads.
Breakfast (S14) is available. There’s also a
fully furnished two-story house for hire in
the grassy grounds, the site of open-air Full
Moon parties.
5 Eating & Drinking
High-end hotels have good restaurants open
to the public. There are a few touristic quin-
tas (houses serving typical Andean food)
along the highway east of the grifo.
oHuacatay PERUVIAN $$
(%20-1790; Arica 620; mains S28-42; h1-9:30pm
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y S
Mon-Sat) In a little house tucked down a nar-
row side street, Huacatay is worth hunting
down. The tender alpaca steak, served in a
port reduction sauce with creamy quinoa ri-
sotto and topped with a spiral potato chip, is
the very stuff memories are made of. But not
every dish is a hit – the trout is on the dry
side. Still, it makes a lovely night out. Staff
aim to please and there’s warm ambience.
Tres Keros Restaurant »
Grill & Bar NOVOANDINA $$
(%20-1701; cnr hwy & Señor de Torrechayoc; mains
from S26; hlunch & dinner) Garrulous chef
T he
E
ating
alinas
Ricardo Behar dishes up tasty gourmet fare,
smokes his own trout and imports steak
S acred
from Argentina. Food is taken seriously
& D rinking
here, and enjoyed accordingly. It’s 500m
west of town.
Valley
7 Shopping
Seminario Cerámicas CERAMICS
(%20-1002; www.ceramicaseminario.com; Ber-
riozabal 405; h8am-7pm) The internationally
known local potter Pablo Seminario creates
original work with a pre-conquest influence.
His workshop – actually a small factory – is
open to the public and offers a well-organized
tour through the entire ceramics process.
8 Information
Banco de la Nación (Mariscal Castilla s/n)
changes US dollars. There are ATMs at the grifo
(gas station) on the corner of the highway and
the main street, Mariscal Castilla, and along the
highway to its east. Clínica Pardo (%984-10-
8948), on the highway a couple of blocks west of
the grifo, offers medical attention.
8 Getting There & Away
Urubamba serves as the valley’s principal
transportation hub. The bus terminal is about
1km west of town on the highway. Buses leave
every 15 minutes for Cuzco (S4, two hours)
via Pisac (S2.50, one hour) or Chinchero (S3,
50 minutes). Buses (S1.50, 30 minutes) and
colectivos (S2.50, 25 minutes) to Ollantaytambo
leave often.
Colectivos to Quillabamba (S35, 5 hours) leave
from the grifo.
A standard mototaxi ride around town costs S1.
Salinas
Salinas is among the most spectacular sights
in the whole Cuzco area, with thousands of
salt pans that have been used for salt extrac-
tion since Inca times. A hot spring at the
top of the valley discharges a small stream
of heavily salt-laden water, which is diverted
into salt pans and evaporated to produce a
salt used for cattle licks. It all sounds very
pedestrian but the overall effect is beautiful
and surreal.
To get here, cross the Río Urubamba over
the bridge in Tarabamba, about 4km down
the valley from Urubamba, turn right and
follow a footpath along the south bank to
a small cemetery, where you turn left and
climb up a valley to the salt pans (admis-
sion S5; h9am-4:30pm) of Salinas. It’s about
a 500m uphill hike. A rough dirt road that
can be navigated by taxi enters Salinas from
above, giving spectacular views. Tour groups
visit via this route most days. A taxi from
Urubamba to visit Salinas and the nearby
Moray costs around S80. You can also walk
or bike here from Maras. If it’s hot, walk
the downhill route from Maras and arrange
ahead a taxi pickup.
Chinchero
% 084 / POP 900 / ELEV 3762M
Known to the Incas as the birthplace of the
rainbow, this typical Andean village com-
bines Inca ruins with a colonial church,

some wonderful mountain views and a
colorful Sunday market. On a high plain
with sweeping views to snow-laden peaks,
it’s quite beautiful. Since it is very high,
it’s unwise to spend the night until you’re
somewhat acclimated. Entry to the historic
precinct, where the ruins, the church and
the museum are all found, requires a boleto
turístico.
1 Sights & Activities
Iglesia Colonial de Chinchero CHURCH
(h8am-5:30pm; admission with boleto turístico)
Among the most beautiful churches in the
valley, this colonial church is built on Inca
foundations. The interior, decked out in mer-
ry floral and religious designs, is well worth
seeing.
Mercado de Chinchero MARKET
The Chinchero market, held on Tuesday,
Thursday and especially Sunday, is less tour-
isty than its counterpart in Pisac and well
worth a special trip. On Sunday, tradition-
ally dressed locals descend from the hills for
the produce market, where the ancient prac-
tice of trueco (bartering) still takes place;
this is a rare opportunity to observe genuine
bartering.
Wayllabamba HIKING
On the opposite side of the valley, a clear
trail climbs upward before heading north
and down to the Río Urubamba Valley about
four hours away. At the river, the trail turns
left and continues to a bridge at Wayllabam-
ba, where you can cross. From here, the Sa-
cred Valley road will take you to Calca (turn
right, about 13km) or Urubamba (turn left,
about 9km). You can flag down any passing
bus until midafternoon, or continue walking
to Yucay, where the trail officially ends. In
Yucay you’ll find a colonial church, an Inca
ruin, and more than one charming accom-
modation option.
Centro de Textiles »
Tradicionales HANDICRAFTS
(Manzanares s/n) The best artisan workshop in
town, though they’re found on every street.
Ruinas Inca RUINS
The most extensive ruins here consist of
terracing. If you start walking away from
the village through the terraces on the
right-hand side of the valley, you’ll also
find various rocks carved into seats and
­staircases.
24 1
Museo del Sitio MUSEUM
(%22-3345; admission S7; h8am-5pm Tue-Sun) A
small archaeological museum opposite the
church houses a collection heavy on broken
pots – not worth the extra admission.
4 Sleeping & Eating
Both lodgings feature good restaurants;
there’s little other selection in town.
La Casa de Barro
(%30-6031; www.lacasadebarro.com; cnr hwy &
INN $$
Miraflores; s/d/tr incl breakfast S133/186/225) A
wonderful retreat for couples or families,
with curvy, rambling stairways and nooks,
an overgrown garden, and tasteful rooms
with snug quilts. The colorful adobe house
is architect-designed with Italian influence.
It is also well set up for children, with a play-
room and swings. They can arrange excur-
sions around the region. A set menu in the
restaurant is S50.
Hospedaje Mi Piuray GUESTHOUSE $
(%30-6029; www.hospedajemipiuraycusco.com;
Garcilaso 187; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast S40/70/
80/90) A welcoming family hostelry with
large, neat rooms with pastel accents and a
sunny courtyard. There’s also an onsite res-
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y M
taurant and bar.
8 Getting There & Away
Combis and colectivos traveling between Cuzco
(S4/S6, one hour) and Urubamba (S3/S6, 30
minutes) stop on the corner of the highway and
Calle Manco Capac II; just flag down whatever
comes along. They will also drop you off at inter-
mediate points such as the turnoff to Maras.
Moray & Maras
The impressively deep amphitheater-like
T he
S
ights
terracing of Moray (admission S10; hdawn to
oray
dusk), reached via the small town of Maras
S acred
(admission S5), is a fascinating spectacle.
&& M
Different levels of concentric terraces are
Activities
carved into a huge earthen bowl, each layer
aras
Valley
of which has its own microclimate, accord-
ing to depth. Some theorize that the Incas
used the terraces as a kind of laboratory to
determine the optimal conditions for grow-
ing crops of each species. There are three
bowls, one of which has been planted with
various crops as a kind of living museum.
Though refreshingly off the beaten path,
this site is not challenging to reach. Take any
transportation bound between Urubamba
and Cuzco via Chinchero and ask to be let
24 2
off at the Maras/Moray turnoff. Taxis usually
wait at this turnoff to take tourists to Moray
and back for around S30, or both Moray and
Salinas and back to the turnoff for around
S50. If you’re coming in the depths of low
season, it’s worth calling the Maras taxi
company (%75-5454, 984-95-6063) to ensure
that a taxi is waiting for you at the turnoff.
A taxi from Urubamba to visit both Salinas
and Moray costs around S80.
You could also tackle the 4km walk to the
village of Maras yourself. From there, follow
the road another 9km to Moray.
From Maras, you can walk or bike to Sali-
nas, about 6km away. The trail starts behind
the church. The Maras taxi company rents
out bikes for this purpose – this is a fun, fast,
single-track ride.
Ollantaytambo
% 084 / POP 700 / ELEV 2800M
Dominated by two massive Inca ruins, the
quaint village of Ollantaytambo (known to
locals and visitors alike as Ollanta) is the
best surviving example of Inca city plan-
ning, with narrow cobblestone streets that
have been continuously inhabited since
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y O
the 13th century. After the hordes passing
through on their way to Machu Picchu die
down around late morning, Ollanta is a love-
ly place to be. It’s perfect for wandering the
mazy, narrow byways, past stone buildings
and babbling irrigation channels, pretend-
ing you’ve stepped back in time. It also offers
access to excellent hiking and biking.
Currently, Ollantaytambo suffers for be-
ing a thoroughfare between Cuzco and the
jungle. Since there are no alternate roads,
huge semi trucks and buses barrel through
the narrow main street (barely missing pe-
T he
S
destrians). Locals question the disruption of
ights
llantaytambo
town life, along with the effect of excessive
S acred
exhaust on the ruins, but talk of an alterna-
tive road has not materialized in any imme-
& Activities
diate plans.
There are a couple of internet cafes and
Valley
ATMs in and around Plaza de Armas. There
are no banks, but several places change
money.
1 Sights & Activities
Ollantaytambo Ruins RUINS
(admission with boleto turístico; h7am-5pm) The
huge, steep terraces that guard Ollantaytam-
bo’s spectacular Inca ruins mark one of the
few places where the Spanish conquistadors
lost a major battle.
The rebellious Manco Inca had retreated
to this fortress after his defeat at Sacsay-
wamán. In 1536, Hernando Pizarro, Fran-
cisco’s younger half-brother, led a force of
70 cavalrymen to Ollantaytambo, supported
by large numbers of indigenous and Span-
ish foot soldiers, in an attempt to capture
Manco Inca.
The conquistadors, showered with ar-
rows, spears and boulders from atop the
steep terracing, were unable to climb to
the fortress. In a brilliant move, Manco
Inca flooded the plain below the fortress
through previously prepared channels. With
Spaniards’ horses bogged down in the wa-
ter, Pizarro ordered a hasty retreat, chased
down by thousands of Manco Inca’s victori-
ous soldiers.
Yet the Inca victory would be short lived.
Spanish forces soon returned with a quad-
rupled cavalry force and Manco fled to his
jungle stronghold in Vilcabamba.
Though Ollantaytambo was a highly ef-
fective fortress, it also served as a temple. A
finely worked ceremonial center is at the
top of the terracing. Some extremely well-
built walls were under construction at the
time of the conquest and have never been
completed. The stone was quarried from
the mountainside 6km away, high above
the opposite bank of the Río Urubamba.
Transporting the huge stone blocks to the
site was a stupendous feat. The Incas’ crafty
technique to move massive blocks across the
river meant carting the blocks to the river-
side then diverting the entire river channel
around them.
The 6km hike to the Inca quarry on the
opposite side of the river is a good walk
from Ollantaytambo. The trail starts from
the Inca bridge by the entrance to the vil-
lage. It takes a few hours to reach the site,
passing several abandoned blocks known
as piedras cansadas – tired stones. Look-
ing back towards Ollantaytambo, you can
see the enigmatic optical illusion of a pyra-
mid in the fields and walls in front of the
fortress. A few scholars believe this marks
the legendary place where the original Incas
first emerged from the earth.
KB Tambo MOUNTAIN BIKING
(%20-4091; www.kbperu.com; Ventiderio s/n)
Considered the best tour operator in town
for mountain biking and recommended for
families. Also offers treks.
 24 3

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Machu Picchu Train (650m); Inca Bridge (500m);
El Albergue Bed & Breakfast (700m); 15 ›
# Urubamba (18km)
‚

Train Station (700m)

A B C D

Sota Adventure ADVENTURE SPORTS

Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y O

(%63-4003; www.sotaadventure.com) Sota Ad- Ollantaytambo
venture comes highly recommended by
æ Sights
readers, particularly for horseback riding.
1 Ollantaytambo Ruins ..........................A1
The family-run business also offers moun-
2 Pinkulluna Ruins access .................... D2
tain biking and multiday hikes.
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
z Festivals & Events KB Tambo.................................... (see 8)
Día de los Reyes Magos FESTIVAL
ÿ Sleeping
Epiphany is celebrated on January 5 to 8,
3 Apu Lodge .......................................... D2
when residents of surrounding communi-
4 Casa de Wow .......................................C1
ties arrive on foot to Ollanta to celebrate the
5 Chaska Wasi ....................................... C3
arrival of the three kings. Following a pro-
6 Hostal las Orquídeas .......................... B3
cession, there are traditional dances and a
FT estivals

bullfight. 7 Hotel Muñay Tika ............................... B3

he
llantaytambo

8 KB Tambo Hostal ............................... B2

S acred& Valley

Señor de Choquechilca FESTIVAL 9 K'uychi Punku Hostal ......................... A2

Occurring during Pentecost in late May or
early June, the town’s most important an- ú Eating
nual event commemorates the local miracle 10 Hearts Café ........................................ B2
E vents

of the Christ of Choquechilca, when a wood- 11 Mayu Pata .......................................... B2

en cross appeared by the Incan bridge. It’s 12 Puka Rumi .......................................... A2
celebrated with music, dancing and colorful 13 Tutti Amore ........................................ B3
processions. û Drinking

4 Sleeping 14 Ganso ................................................. D2

There are lots of budget and midrange ac- ï Transport

commodations in the streets east of the 15 Buses to Urubamba & Cuzco ............ C3
Plaza de Armas.
24 4
EXPLORE MORE OLLANTA
Charmed by this small town? There’s plenty to do if you want to extend your stay:
»» Explore Pinkulluna ruins, with great views of town (and they’re free!). Take the
entry on Calle Lari. The trail is very steep, so hike carefully and wear boots with good
traction.
»» Day hike to Intipunku, an old Inca lookout.
»» Hike or mountain bike to Pumamarka, a nearly forgotten Inca ruin, a half-day trip.
oApu Lodge INN $$
(%79-7162; www.apulodge.com; Lari s/n; s/d/q incl
breakfast S140/160/240; iW) Backed against
the ruins, this modern lodge with a sprawl-
ing lawn is a real retreat, thanks to the wel-
coming staff and the helpful attention of
its Scottish owner. The ample, cozy rooms
feature powerful hot showers that melt your
muscle aches. Wi-fi is available in the com-
mon area. Breakfast includes yogurt, cereal,
fresh fruit and eggs.
In addition to guided treks and horse
rides, staff can point you towards a number
of worthwhile DIY hikes.
Casa de Wow HOSTEL $
(%20-4010; www.casadewow.com; Patacalle s/n; d
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y O
S110, dm/s/d without bathroom S40/55/90; iW)
A cozy little home away from home, thanks
to the caring attention of Winn, a North
Carolina native, and her partner Wow, a lo-
cal artist. Bunks are snug and couples have
a shot at the fantastic handmade Inca roy-
alty bed (though unlike the original, these
raw beams are held together with rope, not
llama innards).
El Albergue Bed & Breakfast B&B $$$
(%20-4014; www.elalbergue.com; Estación de Tren;
d/tr incl breakfast S204/259, d superior S303;
T he
S
iW) On the train platform, this romantic
leeping
llantaytambo
pit stop exudes Andean charm. Surrounded
S acred Valley
by green lawns with lush flowerbeds, taste-
ful tile rooms feature dark hardwood trim,
tapestries and quality linens in an early 20th
century building. There’s portable heaters,
games for kids and sauna access. It’s 800m
(all uphill) from the village center but there’s
an excellent on-site restaurant.
KB Tambo Hostal GUESTHOUSE $
(%20-4091; www.kbperu.com; Ventiderio s/n; per
person regular/superior incl breakfast S58/77;
iW) Travelers who enjoy a laid-back vibe
suck this place up like a pisco sour after a
dusty day. With comfortable doubles, this
homey American-owned guesthouse is
friendly and generous with local tips. It may
be hard to get a room as a walk-in, particu-
larly a single. KB also runs mountain-bike
trips featuring the best quality bikes in
Ollanta.
The website has a wealth of good infor-
mation on traveling the region.
Samanapaq INN $$
(%20-4042; www.samanapaq.com; cnr Prin-
cipal & Alameda de las Cien Ventanas; s/d/tr
S199/244/318) Recommended entirely for the
tireless charm of Don Jaime and his mellow
Great Dane Venus, this sprawling complex
features lawns for the kids to run on, com-
fortable shared spaces and 20 motel-style
rooms with massage-jet showers. There’s
a pottery workshop onsite. Wi-fi should be
available shortly.
Chaska Wasi HOSTEL $
(%20-4045; www.hostalchaskawasi.com; Plaza
de Armas s/n; dm S35, d with/without bathroom
S50/40; iW) Backpackers flock here to en-
joy the company of the lovely, helpful Katy
and her tribe of cats. Cheerful basic rooms
with electric showers are excellent value,
shared spaces are chilled out and perfect for
meeting people, and there are bicycles for
rent and a DVD library.
Hotel Muñay Tika HOTEL $$
(%20-4111; www.munaytika.com; Av Ferrocarril s/n;
s/d/tr incl breakfast S107/133/170; iW) Though
the native corn drying in the courtyard
might say otherwise, this hotel is modern
and spacious. Rooms with tinted windows
feature parquet floors and down duvets. The
garden is a nice area to hang out in.
K’uychi Punku Hostal HOTEL $$
(%20-4175; www.kuychipunku.com; Kuyuchipunku
s/n; s/d/tr incl breakfast S75/105/135; W) Run
by the wonderful Bejar-Mejía family, this
recommended hotel may be open to bar-
gaining. Lodgings are in an Inca building
with 2m-thick walls and a modern section
with less personality. A breakfast including

eggs and fresh juice is served in Ollanta’s
most photographed outdoor dining room.
­Recommended.
Hostal las Orquídeas HOTEL $$
(%20-4032; www.hotellasorquideasllantaytambo.
com; Av Ferrocarril s/n; s/d incl breakfast S85/125)
Has a small, grassy courtyard and rooms
with parquet floors, down bedding and TVs.
Hospedaje las Portadas GUESTHOUSE $
(%20-4008; Principal s/n; dm/s/d/tr
S15/30/50/75) Although all of the tourist and
local buses pass by outside, this family-run
place still manages to achieve tranquility. It
has a flowery courtyard, a grassy lawn and a
rooftop terrace made for star-gazing. Camp-
ing is allowed for S10 per person.
5 Eating
oEl Albergue »
Restaurante INTERNATIONAL $$
(%20-4014; Estación de Tren; mains S19-45;
h5am-9pm) Inside El Albergue, this whistle
stop cafe serves elegant dinners of well-
priced, classic Peruvian fare. Foremost, it’s
inviting, with an open kitchen bordered by
heaping fruit bowls and candles adorning
each linen-topped table. For starters, try the
causas or organic greens from the garden.
Lamb medallions with chimichurri (herb
sauce) are a standout, as well as the molle
pepper steak – the spice comes from the
tree outside. Those less hungry can order
homemade pasta in half-portions. For train
passengers, it may be worth stopping by the
patio option Café Mayu for an espresso or
homemade aguantamayo cheesecake.
Puka Rumi CAFE $$
(%20-4091; Ventiderio s/n; mains S5-32;
h7:30am-10pm) A tiny locale where locals
rave about the steaks, travelers melt over the
breakfasts, and everyone enjoys the fresh
but nontraditional burritos, which could
feed two with pancake-like tortillas and a
wide array of ingredients presented fajita-
style in separate bowls.
Tutti Amore ICE CREAM $
(Av Ferrocarril s/n; ice cream S5; h8:30am-7pm)
Andres from Rosario, Argentina, serves
up homemade gelato-style ice cream. Clas-
sics like dulce de leche and banana split
are present, but the jungle fruit flavors are
worth a try. It’s halfway down the hill to the
train station.
24 5
Hearts Café CAFE $
(%20-4078; cnr Ventiderio & Av Ferrocarril; menú
S18, sandwiches S10-14 h7am-9pm; v) Serving
healthy and hearty food, beer and wine and
fabulous coffee, Hearts is a longtime local
favorite, with some organic produce and
box lunches for excursions. Breakfasts like
huevos rancheros target the gringo palette
perfectly, and the corner spot with outdoor
tables was made for people watching.
Long run by a renowned NGO, it is set to
change hands, which probably means it will
lose the charitable aspect.
Mayu Pata PERUVIAN $$
(mains S12-34; h10am-l0pm) Tucked away by
the riverside, this bright restaurant, run by
the owner of Puka Rumi, offers enormous
salads, adobe oven-fired pizzas and trout.
6 Drinking
Ganso BAR
(%984-30-8499; Waqta s/n; h2pm-late) Tree-
house meets circus meets Batman! The
hallucinatory decor in tiny, friendly Ganso
is enough to drive anyone to drink. The fire-
men’s pole and swing seats are the icing on
the cake.
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y O
8 Getting There & Away
Bus & Taxi
Frequent combis and colectivos shuttle between
Urubamba and Ollantaytambo (S1.50/2.50,
30 minutes), from 6am to around 5pm. To get
to Cuzco, it’s easiest to change in Urubamba,
though there are occasional departures direct
from the train station in Ollantaytambo to
Cuzco’s Puente Grau (combis S10, two hours,
colectivos S12, 1½ hours).
Even though Ollantaytambo is closer to Santa
María (for those traveling on to Santa Teresa)
and Quillabamba, those buses pass through
T he
E
here already full. It’s best to backtrack to Uru-
ating
llantaytambo
bamba’s bus terminal to get a seat.
S acred Valley
Train
Ollantaytambo is a transport hub between Cuz-
co and Machu Picchu: the cheapest and quick-
est way to travel between Cuzco and Machu
Picchu is to catch a combi between Cuzco and
Ollantaytambo (two hours), and then the train
between Ollantaytambo and Aguas Calientes
(two hours). Three companies currently offer
the service:
Peru Rail (www.perurail.com; Av Ferrocarril
s/n; h5am-9pm) Formerly the only service
to Aguas Calientes, with multiple departures
daily. There are three levels of service: Expedi-
tion (from US$98 roundtrip), Vistadome (from
24 6
US$146 roundtrip) and the luxurious special
service (from US$540 roundtrip).
SInca Rail (%43-6732; www.incarail.com; Av
Ferrocarril s/n) New company with three depar-
tures daily from Ollantaytambo and four levels
of service (roundtrip US$82-180). Children
get a significant discount. An environmentally
sustainable practice business.
Machu Picchu Train (www.machupicchutrain.
com; Av Ferrocarril s/n) A new service of
panoramic view trains, travels only from
Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes (roundtrip
adult/child from US$100/70) three times daily
in high season. Breakfast or snacks may be
served.
Show up at least one day beforehand to buy
tickets; during high season, make reservations
as far in advance as possible. Buy a return ticket.
Trains leaving Aguas Calientes usually fill up
since the vast number of people who hike to
Machu Picchu return to Cuzco by train.
MACHU PICCHU & THE
INCA TRAIL
Shrouded by mist and surrounded by lush
vegetation and steep escarpments, the
sprawling Inca citadel of Machu Picchu is
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y Aguas
one icon that lives up to every expectation.
Like the Mona Lisa, the pyramids and San
Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge, this icon has
been seared into our collective conscious-
ness, though nothing can diminish the thrill
of being there. If you have the time and the
interest, hiking to Machu Picchu via the sce-
nic Inca Trail, as its ancient inhabitants once
did, offers a full-immersion experience. But
no pilgrimage is without its challenges. All
visitors must pass through the gateway to
Machu Picchu, Aguas Calientes. Part tour-
ist trap, part Wild West, this shabby town is
Mights
S
isolated from the rest of the region and only
achu CP&alientes
accessible by railway.
Aguas Calientes
icchu
Activities
% 084 / POP 1000 / ELEV 2410M
Also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo, this
& the I nca T rail
town lies in a deep gorge below the ruins. A
virtual island, it’s cut off from all roads and
enclosed by stone cliffs, towering cloud for-
est, and two rushing rivers. Despite its gor-
geous location, Aguas Calientes has always
been a bit of a no-man’s land, with a large
itinerant population, slack services that
count on one-time customers and an archi-
tectural tradition of rebar and unfinished
cement. With merchants pushing the hard
sell, it’s hard not to feel overwhelmed. Your
best bet is to go without expectations.
Yet spending the night offers one distinct
advantage: early access to Machu Picchu,
which turns out to be a pretty good reason
to stay.
Note that the footpath from the train
station to the Machu Picchu bus stop is
stepped. Wheelchairs should be directed
across the small bridge to Sinchi Roca and
through the center of town.
1 Sights & Activities
Museo de Sitio Manuel »
Chávez Ballón MUSEUM
(admission S22; h9am-5pm) This museum has
superb information in Spanish and English
on the archaeological excavations of Machu
Picchu and Inca building methods. Stop
here before or after the ruins to get a sense
of context (and to enjoy the air-conditioning
and soothing music if you’re walking back
from the ruins after hours in the sun!)
There’s a small botanical garden outside,
down a nifty, nerve-testing set of Inca stairs.
It’s by Puente Ruinas, at the base of the foot-
path to Machu Picchu.
Las Termas HOT SPRINGS
(admission S10; h5am-8:30pm) Weary trekkers
soak away their aches and pains in the
town’s hot springs, 10 minutes’ walk up
Pachacutec from the train tracks. These tiny,
natural thermal springs, from which Aguas
Calientes derives its name, are nice enough
but far from the best in the area (that would
be Santa Teresa’s Cocalmayo), and get scum-
my by late morning. Towels can be rented
cheaply outside the entrance.
Putucusi MOUNTAIN
For those who still have energy left for trek-
king, the steep hike up this toothy mini-
mountain, directly opposite Machu Picchu,
is highly recommended. Follow the railway
tracks about 250m west of town and you’ll
see a set of stairs; this is the start of a well-
marked trail. Parts of the walk are up lad-
ders, which get slippery in the wet season,
but the view across to Machu Picchu is
worth the trek. Allow three hours.
4 Sleeping
Lodgings here are consistently overpriced –
probably costing two-thirds more than simi-
lar counterparts in less-exclusive locations.
Bargain hospedajes can be found in the

area uphill of the souvenir market; few are
cheaper than Hospedaje los Caminantes and
Hostal John.
SMachu Picchu Pueblo Hotel LODGE $$$
(%in Lima 01-610-0400; www.inkaterra.com; d casi-
tas from S1640, villas from S2532; aiWs) Lux-
uriant and set amid tropical gardens, these
chic Andean-style cottages (many with their
own private pool) connected by stone path-
ways are pure indulgence. The devil is in the
details: iPod docks, subtle, classy decor, and
showers with glass walls looking out onto
lush vegetation. The onsite spa features a
bamboo-eucalyptus sauna, but the best fea-
ture are the guided excursions included in
your stay.
Choose from bilingual tours for bird
watching, tea plantation visits and orchid
walks, or take a trip to the hotel’s conserva-
tion site protecting the rare Andean specta-
cled bear. Rates include half-board and kids
under 12 stay for free.
El Mapi DESIGN HOTEL $$$
(%21-1011; www.elmapihotel.com; Pachacutec 109;
d casitas from S1640, villas from S2532; aiW)
Spare and ultra-modern, this new design
hotel occupies a central spot in the mid-
dle of town. Lofty ceilings, burnished steel
and oversized nature photos create a cool,
stripped down atmosphere, though the
stark, all-white rooms take it a little too far.
Perks include enjoying a welcome pisco sour
at the stylish bar and the enormous buffet
breakfast which provides ample fuel for a
day in the ruins. There’s also a warm land-
scaped pond for dips, a full-service restau-
rant and an onsite boutique.
Rupa Wasi HOTEL $$$
(%21-1101; www.rupawasi.net; Huanacaure s/n;
d incl breakfast S472; W) Hidden away up a
steep flight of stairs, Rupa Wasi clings to
the hillside with wooden stairways and
moss-strewn stone pathways. It’s quaint
and a little wild, but the price only reflects
its proximity to Machu Picchu. Cabin-style
rooms feature down duvets and views; a
nice American breakfast is served in the
Tree House cafe.
Gringo Bill’s HOTEL $$$
(%21-1046; www.gringobills.com; Colla Raymi 104;
d/tr/ste incl breakfast S199/278/358; iWs)
One of the original Aguas Calientes lodg-
ings, friendly Bill’s features well-heeled
rooms in a multi-tiered construction. Rooms
247
are smart, with beds covered in thick cotton
quilts and large bathrooms. Suites feature
massage jet tubs and TVs. The mini pool
only has space for two. Larger suites easily
accommodate families.
Hospedaje los Caminantes GUESTHOUSE $
(%21-1007; los-caminantes@hotmail.com; Av Impe-
rio de los Incas 140; per person with/without bath-
room S35/20; W) The best bargain digs are in
this big, multistory guesthouse. Dated but
clean rooms with laminate floors feature
reliable hot water and a few balconies. The
train whistling directly outside your window
at 7am is an unmistakable wake-up call.
Breakfast isn’t included but available (S8 to
S10) below at the strangely upscale in-house
cafe.
La Cabaña Hotel HOTEL $$$
(%21-1048; www.lacabanamachupicchu.com;
Pachacutec s/n; s/d incl breakfast S336/392; iW)
Further uphill than most of the hotels, this
popular spot features woody, cozy rooms, in
part thanks to down duvets and heaters. In
addition to buffet breakfast, there’s compli-
mentary tea and fruit round the clock.
Wiracocha Inn HOTEL $$
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y Aguas
(%21-1088; wiracochainn.com; Wiracocha s/n;
s/d incl breakfast S172/225) On a side street
crowded with midrange hotels, this newer
option has well-kept and polished rooms,
amiable service and a sheltered patio area
near the river. Rooms feature down bedding
and TVs.
Hotel Presidente HOTEL $$
(%21-1065; reservas@siahotels.com; Av Imperio de
los Incas s/n; d with view S210, s/d/tr incl breakfast
S159/199/225; W) A solid and very secure op-
tion featuring small double beds and flat
screen TVs. It’s worth paying the extra for
Mleeping
S
a room with a view, not just for the outlook
achu CPalientes
over the river but to get as far from the train
tracks as possible.
icchu & the I nca T rail
Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel HOTEL $$$
(%21-1059; www.sumaqhotelperu.com; Hermanos
Ayar s/n; s/d with some meals from S1312/1594;
aiW) Ungainly on the outside, this high-
end hotel has a soothing interior. Light-
flooded, white-walled spaces with splashes
of bold color give it a modern feel that’s
luxurious without being pompous. Rooms
boast views of either river and mountains,
or a hillside with manmade water cascades.
There are multiple eating and drinking ar-
eas, and a full spa with sauna and Jacuzzi.
6666666
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Aguas Calientes
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y Aguas

ÿ Sleeping 17 Indio Feliz .............................................. C1

1 El Mapi ...................................................C1
2 Gringo Bill's ........................................... B1
3 Hospedaje los Caminantes................... A1
4 Hostal John ...........................................C2
5 Hostal Mayurina.................................... C1
6 Hotel Presidente ................................... B1
7 La Cabaña Hostel .................................. D1
8 Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel..................D3
9 Machupicchu Hostal ............................. B1
10 Rupa Wasi.............................................. B1
11 Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel ................. A1
Mleeping
S
Tree House................................... (see 10)
û Drinking
18 Wasicha................................................. C1
ï Information
19 ATM ...................................................... D2
20 ATM........................................................B1
21 BCP .......................................................C2
22 iPerú...................................................... C1
Machu Picchu Ticket Office......... (see 22)

12 Supertramp Hostel ...............................D3 23 Medical Center.......................................B1

achu CPalientes

13 Wiracocha Inn ....................................... D1

ï Transport
ú Eating 24 Machu Picchu Bus Tickets
icchu & the I nca T rail

14 Café de Paris ......................................... D1 & Bus Stop ......................................... C2

15 Café Inkaterra .......................................D3 25 Trains to Hydroelectric
16 Govinda ................................................. D1 Station.................................................A1

Room rates include buffet breakfast, after-
noon tea and either lunch or dinner.
Hostal Muyurina HOTEL $$
(%21-1339; www.hostalmuyurina.com; Lloque
Yupanqui s/n; s/d/tr incl breakfast S199/239/292;
W) Sparkling new and keen to please, Mayu-
rina is a friendly option. Rooms have phones
and TV.
Supertramp Hostel HOSTEL $
(%79-1224; supertramphostel@hotmail.com; Calle
Chaskatika s/n; dm incl breakfast from S26; W)
Pancakes at 5am will brighten anyone’s day,
so it matters less that the hot water is on-

and-off and rooms are a little cramped. It’s
the only real hostel in town, with good staff,
kitchen access and a small store with provi-
sions nearby. Train station pick-up available.
Machupicchu Hostal HOTEL $$
(%21-1212; reservas@siahotels.com; Av Imperio de
los Incas s/n; s/d/tr incl breakfast S120/135/180;
iW) One of the tidy midrange inns right
next to the train tracks, this place has buf-
fet breakfasts and a small flower-festooned
interior courtyard. Small, dark rooms echo
with sounds of the guesthouse, and you will
certainly hear every train that goes by.
Hostal John HOTEL $
(%21-1022; jtrujillo3@hotmail.com; Mayta Cápac
105; per person S20) Uphill from the plaza, this
friendly spot offers bare, cell-like rooms that
might mean incarceration elsewhere, but of-
fer unbeatable value in Aguas Calientes. The
related Hotel Joe across the street is similar
but less appealing.
Municipal Campground CAMPGROUND $
(camping per tent S15) This small, charm-
ing campground has toilets, showers and
kitchen facilities for rent. It’s a 20-minute
walk downhill from the center of town on
the road to Machu Picchu, before the bridge.
5 Eating
Touts standing in the street will try to herd
you into their restaurant, but take your time
making a selection. Standards are not very
high in most restaurants – if you go to one
off this list, snoop around to check the hy-
giene first.
oIndio Feliz FRENCH $$$
(%21-1090; Lloque Yupanqui 4; menú S55, mains
from S38; h11am-10pm) It’s hard to overstate
the pleasure that can be derived from this
multi-award-winning restaurant. Of course,
hospitality is the strong suit of French cook
Patrik, but the food does not disappoint.
Start with sopa criolla, a potent and flavor-
ful broth, served with hot bread, homemade
butter and optional chilis. There are also
nods to traditional French cooking – like
Provençal tomatoes, crispy-perfect garlic po-
tatoes and a melt-in-your-mouth tarte aux
pommes.
The candlelit decor shows the imagina-
tion of a long-lost castaway with imitation
Gauguin panels, a carved figurehead dam-
sels, colonial benches and vintage objects.
The S50 menú is an extremely good value
249
for a decadent dinner. Indio Feliz has good
wheelchair access and is in the process of
adding an upstairs bar and terrace, which
provides another reason not to leave here.
Café Inkaterra PERUVIAN $$$
(%21-1122; Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel; mains S25-
60; h11am-9pm) Second to none for ambi-
ence, this tucked-away riverside restaurant
is housed in elongated thatched rooms with
views of water tumbling over the boulders.
With quite reasonable prices, try the per-
fectly executed lomo saltado with flavorful
sauce and crisp red onions. Look carefully,
it’s hidden behind the train station.
Tree House FUSION $$$
(%21-1101; Huanacaure s/n; S32-59; h4:30am-
10pm) With just a few tables, the rustic am-
bience of Tree House provides a cozy setting
for its inviting fusion menu. Dishes like
chicken soup with wontons and ginger, red
quinoa risotto and crispy trout are lovingly
prepared. For dessert, order the lip-smack-
ing fruit crumble. Reserve ahead. It’s part of
the hotel Rupa Wasi.
Café de Paris BAKERY $
(Plaza Wiyawaina s/n; pastries S1-4; h7am-9pm)
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y Aguas
We don’t know how these Frenchmen got
here, we’re just thankful. This open-air stand
sells pain au chocolat, fresh croissants and
desserts. The upstairs bakery offers commu-
nity classes, which should leave an interest-
ing cultural imprint on the rural Andean
baking.
Govinda VEGETARIAN $$
(Pachacutec s/n; menú S15-30; h10:30am-9pm;
v) A trusty Hare Krishna vegetarian stand-
by serving chapati bread and meatless inter-
pretations of Peruvian classics. Be warned,
hours may be sporadic.
Mating
E
achu CPalientes
6 Drinking
There isn’t much nightlife in Aguas
Calientes. Desperate restaurants offer a four-
icchu & the I nca T rail
for-one happy hour (probably not the best
way to prepare for running up Wayna Pic-
chu). Wasicha (%21-1282; Lloque Yupanqui s/n)
is a popular discoteca with dancing till the
wee hours. At the time of writing, the Indio
Feliz restaurant was adding a rooftop bar
geared towards grown-ups.
8 Information
There’s a helpful branch of iPerú (%21-
1104; Pachacutec, cuadra 1; h9am-1pm &
2-6pm) near the Machu Picchu ticket office
2 50
(h5:20am-8:45pm). If the ATM at BCP (Av
Imperio de los Incas s/n) runs out of money,
there are four others in town, including one on
Av Imperio de los Incas. Currency and traveler’s
checks can be exchanged in various places at
highly unfavorable rates, so it’s best to bring
plenty of Peruvian currency with you from
Cuzco. Pay phones and cybercafes are scattered
around the town, and there’s a small post office
(Colla Raymi s/n). There’s a medical center
(%21-1005; Av Imperio de los Incas s/n; hemer-
gencies 24hr) by the train tracks.
8 Getting There & Away
There are only three options to get to Aguas
Calientes, and hence to Machu Picchu: trek it,
catch the train via Cuzco and the Sacred Valley,
or travel by road and train via Santa Teresa.
Train
Buy a return ticket to avoid getting stranded in
Aguas Calientes – outbound trains sell out much
quicker than their inbound counterparts. All
train companies have ticket offices in the train
station, but you can check their websites for
up-to-date schedules and ticket purchases. For
more information, see p231.
To Cuzco (three hours), PeruRail (www.peru
rail.com) has service to Poroy and taxis connect
to the city, another 20 minutes away.
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y M
To Ollantaytambo (two hours), all three
companies provide service: Peru Rail, Inca Rail
(%in Cuzco 23-3030; www.incarail.com) and
Machu Picchu Train (%in Cuzco 22-1199; www.
machupicchutrain.com).
To Santa Teresa (45 minutes), Peru Rail
travels at 6:44am, 12:35pm and 1:30pm daily.
Tickets (US$12) can only be bought from Aguas
Calientes train station on the day of departure,
but trains actually leave from the west end of
town, outside the police station. You can also do
this route as a guided multisport tour (see p38).
Bus
8 achu P icchu & the I nca T rail
There is no road access to Aguas Calientes.
The only buses go up the hill to Machu Picchu
(round-trip S50, 25 minutes) from 5:30am to
2:30pm; buses return until 5:45pm.
Machu Picchu
For many visitors to Peru and even South
America, a visit to the Inca city of Machu
Picchu is the long-anticipated highpoint of
their trip. In a spectacular location, it’s the
best-known archaeological site on the con-
tinent. This awe-inspiring ancient city was
never revealed to the conquering Spaniards
and was virtually forgotten until the early
part of the 20th century. In the high season,
from late May until early September, 2500
people arrive daily. Despite this great tourist
influx, the site manages to retain an air of
grandeur and mystery, and is a must for all
visitors to Peru.
The site is most heavily visited between
10am and 2pm. June through August are the
busiest months.
History
Machu Picchu is not mentioned in any of
the chronicles of the Spanish conquistadors.
Apart from a couple of German adventur-
ers in the 1860s, who apparently looted the
site with the Peruvian government’s permis-
sion, nobody apart from local Quechua peo-
ple knew of Machu Picchu’s existence until
American historian Hiram Bingham was
guided to it by locals in 1911. You can read
Bingham’s own account of his ‘discovery’ in
the classic book Inca Land: Explorations
in the Highlands of Peru, first published in
1922 and now available as a free download
from Project Gutenberg (www.gutenberg.
org).
Bingham was searching for the lost city
of Vilcabamba, the last stronghold of the
Incas, and he thought he had found it at Ma-
chu Picchu. We now know that the remote
ruins at Espíritu Pampa, much deeper in
the jungle, are actually the remains of Vil-
cabamba. The Machu Picchu site was initial-
ly overgrown with thick vegetation, forcing
Bingham’s team to be content with roughly
mapping the site. Bingham returned in 1912
and 1915 to carry out the difficult task of
clearing the thick forest, when he also dis-
covered some of the ruins on the so-called
Inca Trail. (Over the course of his various
journeys, Bingham took thousands of arti-
facts back to the USA with him; see p490
to learn about the fight for their return to
Peru.) Peruvian archaeologist Luis E Valcár-
cel undertook further studies in 1934, as did
a Peruvian-American expedition under Paul
Fejos in 1940 and 1941.
Despite scores of more recent stud-
ies, knowledge of Machu Picchu remains
sketchy. Even today archaeologists are
forced to rely heavily on speculation and
educated guesswork as to its function.
Some believe the citadel was founded in the
waning years of the last Incas as an attempt
to preserve Inca culture or rekindle their
predominance, while others think that it
may have already become an uninhabited,
forgotten city at the time of the conquest.
A more recent theory suggests that the site

READ UP ON THE RUINS
If you are wondering what it’s like to
hike the Inca Trail, or its lesser-known
alternatives, pick up Mark Adams’ Turn
Right at Machu Picchu (2010). Not a
hero’s tale, the humorous travelogue is
a first-person account of one adventure
editor bumbling out into the wild. On
the way, it provides an entertaining
layman’s look at Inca history and the
striving explorations of Hiram Bingham.
was a royal retreat or the country palace of
Pachacutec, abandoned at the time of the
Spanish invasion. The site’s director be-
lieves that it was a city, a political, religious
and administrative center. Its location, and
the fact that at least eight access routes
have been discovered, suggests that it was
a trade nexus between Amazonia and the
highlands.
It seems clear from the exceptionally high
quality of the stonework and the abundance
of ornamental work that Machu Picchu
was once vitally important as a ceremonial
center. Indeed, to some extent, it still is: Ale-
jandro Toledo, the country’s first indigenous
Andean president, impressively staged his
inauguration here in 2001.
1 Sights & Activities
Don’t miss the Museo de Sitio Manuel
Chávez Ballón (see p246) by Puente Ruinas
at the base of the climb to Machu Picchu.
Buses headed back from the ruins to Aguas
Calientes will stop upon request at the
bridge. From here it’s under a half-hour walk
back to town.
INSIDE THE COMPLEX
Unless you arrive via the Inca Trail, you’ll of-
ficially enter the ruins through a ticket gate
on the south side of Machu Picchu. About
100m of footpath brings you to the maze-
like main entrance of Machu Picchu proper,
where the ruins lie stretched out before you,
roughly divided into two areas separated by
a series of plazas.
Note that the names of individual ruins
speculate their use – in reality, much is un-
known. To get a visual fix of the whole site
and snap the classic postcard photograph,
climb the zigzagging staircase on the left im-
mediately after entering the complex, which
leads to the Hut of the Caretaker.
251
Hut of the Caretaker of »
the Funerary Rock RUIN
An excellent viewpoint to take in the whole
site. It’s one of a few buildings that has been
restored with a thatched roof, making it a
good shelter in the case of rain. The Inca
Trail enters the city just below this hut. The
carved rock behind the hut may have been
used to mummify the nobility, hence the
hut’s name.
Ceremonial Baths RUIN
If you continue straight into the ruins
instead of climbing to the hut, you pass
through extensive terracing to a beautiful
series of 16 connected ceremonial baths that
cascade across the ruins, accompanied by a
flight of stairs.
Temple of the Sun RUIN
Just above and to the left of the baths is
Machu Picchu’s only round building, a
curved and tapering tower of exceptional
stonework.
Royal Tomb RUIN
Below the Temple of the Sun, this almost
hidden, natural rock cave was carefully
carved by Inca stonemasons. Its use is highly
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y M
debated; though known as the Royal Tomb,
no mummies were actually ever found here.
Sacred Plaza PLAZA
Climbing the stairs above the ceremonial
baths, there is a flat area of jumbled rocks,
once used as a quarry. Turn right at the top
of the stairs and walk across the quarry on
a short path leading to the four-sided Sacred
Plaza. The far side contains a small viewing
platform with a curved wall, which offers
a view of the snowy Cordillera Vilcabamba
in the far distance and the Río Urubamba
below.
S ights
achu P&icchu
Temple of the Three Windows RUIN
Important buildings flank the remaining
three sides of the Sacred Plaza. The Temple
of the Three Windows features huge trap-
Activities
ezoidal windows that give the building its
name.
& the I nca T rail
Principal Temple RUIN
The ‘temple’ derives its name from the mas-
sive solidity and perfection of its construc-
tion. The damage to the rear right corner is
the result of the ground settling below this
corner rather than any inherent weakness in
the masonry itself.
Machu
MachuPicchu
Picchu

CAROLYN MCCARTHY

CAROLYN MCCARTHY
This great
This great
15th century
15th centuryInca citadel
Inca citadel
sits atsits at
2430m 2430m
on a narrow
on a narrow ridgeridge
top above
top above
the the
Río Urubamba.
Río Urubamba. Traditionally
Traditionallyconsidered
considered
a political,
a political,
religiousreligious
and administrative
and administrative
center,
center,
new theories
new theories suggestsuggest
that itthat
wasit was
a royal
a royal
estateestate
designeddesigned
by Pachacutec,
by Pachacutec,
the Inca
the ruler
Inca ruler
whose whose
military
military
conquests
conquests
transformed
transformed the empire.
the empire.
TrailsTrails
linkedlinked
it to it to
the Inca
the capital
Inca capitalof Cuzcoof Cuzco
and important
and important
sites in
sites
theinjungle.
the jungle.
As invading
As invading Spaniards
Spaniards Intihuatana
Intihuatana
nevernever
discovered
discovered it, experts
it, experts
still dispute
still dispute ‘Hitching‘Hitching
Post ofPost
the Sun’,
of thethis
Sun’,
exquisitely
this exquisitely
carvedcarved
rock rock
was likely
wasused
likelybyused
Incaby
astronomers
Inca astronomers
to predict
to predict
solstices.
solstices.
whenwhen
the site
thewas siteabandoned
was abandoned and why.
and why. It’s a rare
It’ssurvivor
a rare survivor
since invading
since invading
Spaniards
Spaniards
destroyed
destroyed
At itsAtpeak,
its peak,
Machu Machu
Picchu Picchu
was thought
was thought intihuatanas
intihuatanas
throughout
throughout
the kingdom
the kingdom
to eradicate
to eradicate
pagan pagan
to have
to have
somesome 500 inhabitants.
500 inhabitants. An An blasphemy.
blasphemy.

engineering
engineeringmarvel, marvel,
its famous
its famousInca walls
Inca walls
have have
polished
polished
stonestone
ttedto tted
stone,
to stone,
with with
no mortar
no mortar
in between.
in between.The citadel
The citadel
took took
thousands
thousands
of laborers
of laborers
50 years50 years
to build
to build
– –
todaytoday
its costitsofcost
construction
of construction wouldwould
exceed exceed
Western Western
Agricultural
Agricultural
a billion
a billion
US dollars.
US dollars. TerracesTerraces
MakingMaking
it inhabitable
it inhabitablerequiredrequired
levelingleveling
the site,
the channeling
site, channeling waterwater
from fromhigh high SacredSacred
Plaza Plaz
mountain
mountain
streams streams
throughthrough
stonestone
canals canals
and building
and buildingvertical vertical
contention
contention
wallswalls
that became
that became agricultural
agricultural
terracesterraces
for for
corn,corn,
potatoes
potatoesand coca.
and coca.
The drainage
The drainage
systemsystem
also helped
also helpedcombat combat
heavyheavy
rainsrains
(diverting
(diverting
themthem for irrigation),
for irrigation),
whilewhile
east- east-
facingfacing
rooftopsrooftops
and farming
and farming terraces
terraces
took took
advantage
advantage
of maximum
of maximum sun exposure.
sun exposure.
The site
Theissitea magnet
is a magnet
to mystics,
to mystics, To HutToofHut
the ofCaretaker
the Caretaker
of of
adventurers
adventurersand students
and studentsof history
of history
alike.alike. the Funerary
the Funerary
Rock Rock
WhileWhile
its function
its function
remainsremains
hotlyhotly
debated,
debated,
the essential
the essential
grandeurgrandeur
of Machuof Machu
Picchu Picchu
is is
indisputable.
indisputable.

Temple
Temple
of theofThree
the Three
Windows
Windows
Enjoy the
Enjoy
commanding
the commanding
views ofviews
the plaza
of thebelow
plazathrough
below through
the huge
thetrapezoidal
huge trapezoidal
windows windows
framedframed
by three-ton
by three-ton
lintels. lintels.
Rare inRare
Inca in
architecture,
Inca architecture,
the presence
the presence
of threeofwindows
three windows
may indicate
may indicate
specialspecial
signicance.
signicance.
TOPTOP
TIPSTIPS
» Visit» Visit
beforebefore
mid-morning
mid-morning
crowdscrowds
» Allow» Allow
at least
at least
three three
hourshours
to visit
to visit
» Wear » Wear
walking
walking
shoesshoes
and aand
hat a hat
CAROLYN MCCARTHY

CAROLYN MCCARTHY

» Bring» Bring
drinking
drinking
waterwater
» Gain » Gain
perspective
perspective
walking
walking
the lead-in
the lead-in
trails trails
 Wayna
Wayna
Picchu
Picchu

CAROLYN MCCARTHY

CAROLYN MCCARTHY
This 2720m
This 2720m
peak peak
with ladders,
with ladders,
caves caves
and a small
and atemple
small temple
can be can
climbed
be climbed
in in
a 45- toa90-minute
45- to 90-minute
scramble.
scramble.
Take care,
Take care,
the steep
thesteps
steepare
steps are
slipperyslippery
when wet.
when wet.
PurchasePurchase
a coveted
a coveted
permit permit
ahead with
ahead with
admission.
admission.

Central
Central
PlazaPlaza
This sprawling
This sprawling
green area
green
with
area
grazing
with grazing
llamas llamas
separates
separates
the ceremonial
the ceremonial
sector of
sector
Machuof Machu
Picchu Picchu
from the
from
more
themundane
more mundane
residential
residential
and and
industrial
industrial
sectors.
sectors.

Entrance
Entrance
to Wayna
to Wayna
PicchuPicchu
trail trail

Residential
d Residential
ti d Sector
ti rSectorr
Principal
Principal
TempleTemple

za
Industrial
Industrial
SectorSector

HouseHouse
of the of the
High Priest
High Priest

Ceremonial
Ceremonial
Baths Baths

Fountains
Fountains
ns ns To
To Ma
Main
To
To Ma
Main
EntranEntran
Entrance
Entrance

To Agricultural
To
icultural
Agricultural
icultural
Terraces
races
Terraces
races

Temple
TempTemple
Temp
of theofSun
the Sun RoyallR
R Royal
Tomb
T lbTomb
T b
This offThis
-limits
offrounded
-limits rounded
tower istower
best is
viewed
best viewed Speculated Speculated
to havetospecial
have special
ceremonial
ceremonial
from above.
from above.
FeaturingFeaturing
the site’s
thesite’s
nest stone-
nest stone- signicance,
signicance,
a naturala natural
rock cave
rocksits
cave
beloww the
sits w the
below
work, an
work,
altaran
andaltar
trapezoidal
and trapezoidal
windows,windows,
it may it may TempleTemple
of the Sun.
of the
Though
Sun. Though
off-limits,
off-limits,
visitorsvisitors
have been
haveused
beenfor used
astronomical
for astronomical
purposes.
purposes. can view can
itsview
steplike
its steplike
altar and
altar
sacred
and sacred
niches niches
Temple Templeof theof the
from the
from
entrance.
the entrance. Condor Condor
Check out
Check theout
condor
the condor
head carving
head carving
with with
rock outcrops
rock outcrops
that that
resembleresemble
outstretched
outstretched
CAROLYN MCCARTHY

CAROLYN MCCARTHY

CAROLYN MCCARTHY

CAROLYN MCCARTHY

wings. Behind,
wings. Behind,
an off- an off-
limits cavity
limits reaches
cavity reaches
a tiny underground
a tiny underground
cell thatcell
may that
only
maybeonly be
enteredentered
by bending
by bending
double.double.
25 4
House of the High Priest RUIN
Opposite the Principal Temple.
Sacristy RUIN
Behind and connected to the Principal Tem-
ple lies this famous small building. It has
many well-carved niches, perhaps used for
the storage of ceremonial objects, as well as
a carved stone bench. The Sacristy is espe-
cially known for the two rocks flanking its
entrance; each is said to contain 32 angles,
but it’s easy to come up with a different
number whenever you count them.
Intihuatana RUIN
This Quechua word loosely translates as
the ‘Hitching Post of the Sun’ and refers
to the carved rock pillar, often mistakenly
called a sundial, which stands at the top of
the Intihuatana hill. The Inca astronomers
were able to predict the solstices using the
angles of this pillar. Thus, they were able to
claim control over the return of the length-
ening summer days. Exactly how the pillar
was used for these astronomical purposes
remains unclear, but its elegant simplicity
and high craftwork make it a highlight of
the complex.
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y M
Central Plaza PLAZA
At the back of the Intihuatana another stair-
case descends to the Central Plaza.
Prison Group RUIN
At the lower end of this latter area is the
Prison Group, a labyrinthine complex of
cells, niches and passageways, positioned
both under and above the ground.
Temple of the Condor RUIN
The centerpiece of the Prison Group is this
‘temple’ named for a carving of the head of a
condor with outstretched wings.
S ights
achu P&icchu
INTIPUNKU
The Inca Trail ends after its final descent
from the notch in the horizon called In-
tipunku (Sun Gate). Looking at the hill be-
Activities
hind you as you enter the ruins, you can see
both the trail and Intipunku. This hill, called
& the I nca T rail
Machu Picchu (Old Peak) gives the site its
name. It takes about an hour to reach In-
tipunku, and if you can spare at least half
a day for the round trip, it may be possible
to continue as far as Wiñay Wayna. Expect
to pay S15 or more as an unofficial reduced-
charge admission fee to the Inca Trail, and
be sure to return before 3pm, which is when
the checkpoint typically closes.
INCA DRAWBRIDGE
A scenic but level walk from the Hut of the
Caretaker of the Funerary Rock takes you
right past the top of the terraces and out
along a narrow, cliff-clinging trail to the
Inca drawbridge. In under a half-hour’s
walk, the trail gives you a good look at
cloud-forest vegetation and an entirely dif-
ferent view of Machu Picchu. This walk is
recommended, though you’ll have to be
content with photographing the bridge
from a distance, as someone crossed the
bridge some years ago and tragically fell to
their death.
CERRO MACHU PICCHU
A 1½- to two-hour climb brings you to the
top of Machu Picchu mountain, to be re-
warded with the site’s most extensive view –
along the Inca Trail to Wiñay Wayna and
Phuyupatamarka, down to the valley floor
and the impressive terracing near Km 104
(where the two-day Inca Trail begins) and
across the site of Machu Picchu itself. This
walk is more spectacular than Wayna Pic-
chu, and less crowded. Allow yourself plenty
of time to enjoy the scenery (and catch your
breath!). Recommended.
WAYNA PICCHU
Wayna Picchu is the small, steep mountain
at the back of the ruins. Wayna Picchu is
normally translated as ‘Young Peak,’ but the
word picchu, with the correct glottal pro-
nunciation, refers to the wad in the cheek
of a coca-leaf chewer. Access to Wayna
Picchu is limited to 400 people per day –
the first 200 in line are let in at 7am, and
another 200 at 10am. A ticket (S24) may
only be obtained when you purchase your
entrance ticket. These spots sell out a week
in advance in low season and sooner in high
season, so plan accordingly.
At first glance, it would appear that Way-
na Picchu is a difficult climb but, although
the ascent is steep, it’s not technically diffi-
cult. However, it is not recommended if you
suffer from vertigo. Hikers must sign in and
out at a registration booth located beyond
the central plaza between two thatched
buildings. The 45- to 90-minute scramble
up a steep footpath takes you through a
short section of Inca tunnel.
Take care in wet weather as the steps get
dangerously slippery. The trail is easy to fol-
low, but involves steep sections, a ladder
and an overhanging cave, where you have to

bend over to get by. Part way up Wayna Pic-
chu, a marked path plunges down to your
left, continuing down the rear of Wayna Pic-
chu to the small Temple of the Moon. From
the temple, another cleared path leads up
behind the ruin and steeply onward up the
back side of Wayna Picchu.
The descent takes about an hour, and
the ascent back to the main Wayna Picchu
trail longer. The spectacular trail drops and
climbs steeply as it hugs the sides of Wayna
Picchu before plunging into the cloud forest.
Suddenly, you reach a cleared area where
the small, very well-made ruins are found.
Cerro Machu Picchu is a very good alter-
native if you miss out.
4 Sleeping & Eating
Most people either arrive on day trips from
Cuzco or stay in Aguas Calientes.
Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge  $$$
(%984-81-6956; www.sanctuarylodgehotel.com;
standard/mountain view/ste US$975/1400/1750)
Now run by Orient Express, this exclusive
hotel has one feature no one else can match:
location. It’s the only place to stay at Machu
Picchu, though the advantage is not so great,
since buses start running early to the ruins
and the early closing time means no one will
get that cherished sunset photo.
As would be expected, staff attention is
impeccable and rooms are comfortable, with
sober decor, docking stations and eat-in op-
tions. There is also a spa, manicured gar-
dens and personalized guide service for the
ruins. It’s often full, so book at least three
months ahead. Two restaurants serve meals,
and a popular lunch buffet (S97; h11:30am-
3pm) is open to the public and includes non-
alcoholic drinks.
8 Information
Machu Picchu Historical Sanctuary (www.
machupicchu.gob.org; adult/student S128/65;
h6am-4pm) Entrance tickets often sell out:
buy them in advance in Cuzco. Guests can only
enter until 4pm though those inside are not
expelled until 5pm. Check for changes in online
purchasing: it was possible to use Verified by
Visa, but rampant fraud had the feature close
down mid-2012.
The ruins are most heavily visited between
10am and 2pm, and June to August are the
busiest months. Plan your visit early or late in
the day to avoid the worst of the crowds. A visit
early in the morning midweek during the rainy
25 5
season guarantees you more room to breathe,
especially during February, when the Inca Trail
is closed.
Walking sticks or backpacks over 20L are not
allowed into the ruins. There are baggage check
offices outside the entrance gate (S5 per item;
h6am-4pm) and inside the complex (S3 per
item; h6am-5pm).
Local guides (per person S100-150, in groups
of 6-10 S20) are readily available for hire at the
entrance. Their expertise varies, look for one
wearing an official guide ID from DIRCETUR.
Agree on a price in advance, clarify whether the
fee is per person or group, and agree on the tour
length and maximum group size.
The information and illustration provided in
this book should be enough for a self-guided
tour. For really in-depth explorations, take along
a copy of Exploring Cuzco by Peter Frost.
Dangers & Annoyances
Inside the ruins, do not walk on any of the
walls – this loosens the stonework and prompts
a cacophony of whistle blowing from the guards.
Overnighting here is also illegal: guards do a
thorough check of the site before it closes. Dis-
posable plastic bottles and food are not allowed
in the site, though vigilance is a bit lax. It’s best
to eat outside the gate, use camping-type drink
bottles and pack out all trash, even organic
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y M
waste. Water is sold at the cafe just outside the
entrance, but only in glass bottles.
Use of the only toilet facilities, just below the
cafe, will set you back S1.
Tiny sand fly–like bugs abound. You won’t
notice them biting, but you may be itching for a
week. Use insect repellent.
The weather at Machu Picchu seems to have
only two settings: heavy rain or bright, burning
sunlight. Don’t forget rain gear and sun block.
8 Getting There & Around
From Aguas Calientes, frequent buses for Machu
S leeping
Picchu (S50 round-trip, 25 minutes) depart from
achu P icchu
a ticket office along the main road from 5:30am
to 2:30pm. Buses return from the ruins when
full, with the last departure at 5:45pm.
Otherwise, it’s a steep walk (8km, 1.5 hours)
& E ating
up a tightly winding mountain road. First there’s
a flat 20-minute walk from Aguas Calientes
to Puente Ruinas, where the road to the ruins
& the I nca T rail
crosses the Río Urubamba, near the museum.
A breathtakingly steep but well-marked trail
climbs another 2km up to Machu Picchu, taking
about an hour to hike (but less coming down!)
For information about getting to Aguas
Calientes, see p231.
25 6
The Inca Trail
The most famous hike in South America,
the four-day Inca Trail, is walked by thou-
sands every year. Although the total dis-
tance is only about 24 miles, the ancient
trail laid by the Incas from the Sacred Val-
ley to Machu Picchu winds its way up and
down and around the mountains, snaking
over three high Andean passes en route,
which have collectively led to the route
being dubbed ‘the Inca Trial.’ The views of
snowy mountain peaks, distant rivers and
ranges, and cloud forests flush with or-
chids are stupendous – and walking from
one cliff-hugging pre-Columbian ruin to
the next is a mystical and unforgettable
experience.
For information on trekking an alterna-
tive route, see p38.
The Hike
Most trekking agencies run buses to the
start of the trail, also known as Piscacucho
or Km 82 on the railway to Aguas Calientes.
After crossing the Río Urubamba
(2600m) and taking care of registration for-
malities, you’ll climb gently alongside the
river to the trail’s first archaeological site,
Llactapata (town on top of terraces), before
heading south down a side valley of the Río
Cusichaca. (If you start from Km 88, turn
west after crossing the river to see the little-
visited site of Q’ente (Hummingbird), about
1km away, then return east to Llactapata on
the main trail.)
The trail leads 7km south to the hamlet
of Wayllabamba (Grassy Plain; 3000m),
near which many tour groups will camp for
the first night. You can buy bottled drinks
and high-calorie snacks here, and take a
breather to look over your shoulder for

Inca Trail
A B C D

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S
A B C D

views of the snowcapped Nevado Verónica
(5750m).
Wayllabamba is situated near the fork
of Ríos Llullucha and Cusichaca. The trail
crosses the Río Llullucha, then climbs steep-
ly up along the river. This area is known as
Tres Piedras (Three White Stones/3300m),
though these boulders are no longer visible.
From here it is a long, very steep 3km climb
through humid woodlands.
The trail eventually emerges on the high,
bare mountainside of Llulluchupampa
(3750m), where water is available and the
flats are dotted with campsites, which get
very cold at night. This is as far as you can
reasonably expect to get on your first day,
though many groups will actually spend
their second night here.
From Llulluchupampa, a good path up
the left-hand side of the valley climbs for
a two- to three-hour ascent to the pass of
Warmiwañusca, also colorfully known as
e 0
# 0
5 km
2.5 miles
E F
Km 82
£
# 5 Machu Picchu........................................ A1
Chilca #
\ 6 Phuyupatamarka ..................................A2
‚
Ollantaytambo (14km)
Q ue
b ra
da
uq
Sa
uc
ha
yoc
E F
257
‘Dead Woman’s Pass.’ At 4200m above sea
level, this is the highest point of the trek,
and leaves many a seasoned hiker gasping.
From Warmiwañusca, you can see the Río
Pacamayo (Río Escondido) far below, as well
as the ruin of Runkurakay halfway up the
next hill, above the river.
The trail continues down a long and knee-
jarringly steep descent to the river, where
there are large campsites at Paq’amayo. At
an altitude of about 3600m, the trail crosses
the river over a small footbridge and climbs
toward Runkurakay (3750m; Egg-Shaped
Building), a round ruin with superb views.
It’s about an hour’s walk away.
Above Runkurakay, the trail climbs to a
false summit before continuing past two
small lakes to the top of the second pass
at 3950m, which has views of the snow-
laden Cordillera Vilcabamba. You’ll notice
a change in ecology as you descend from
this pass – you’re now on the eastern, Ama-
zon slope of the Andes and things immedi-
ately get greener. The trail descends to the
ruin of Sayaqmarka (Dominant Town), a
tightly constructed complex perched on a
small mountain spur, which offers incred-
ible views. The trail continues downward
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y T
1 and crosses an upper tributary of the Río
Aobamba (Wavy Plain).
The trail then leads on across an Inca
causeway and up a gentle climb through
some beautiful cloud forest and an Inca
Inca Trail
2
æ Sights
1 Inca Tunnel ............................................B3
2 Intipata ...................................................A2
3 Intipunku................................................ B1
4 Llactapata..............................................D3
Mhe
achu
IHnca
7 Q'ente .....................................................D3
ike
3
P icchu
8 Runkurakay............................................B3
T rail & the I nca T rail
9 Sayaqmarka ..........................................B3
10 Wiñay Wayna.........................................B2
ÿ Sleeping
11 Llulluchupampa Campground............C3
12 Machu Picchu Sanctuary
Lodge................................................... A1
4
13 Paq'amayo Campground.....................B3
14 Phuyupatamarka Campground..........B2
15 Sayaqmarka Campground..................B3
16 Wiñay Wayna Campground.................A2
25 8
tunnel carved from the rock. This is a rela-
tively flat section and you’ll soon arrive at
the third pass at almost 3600m, which has
grand views of the Río Urubamba Valley, and
campsites where some groups spend their
final night, with the advantage of watching
the sun set over a truly spectacular view, but
with the disadvantage of having to leave at
3am in the race to reach the Sun Gate in time
for sunrise. If you are camping here, be care-
ful in the early morning as the steep incline
makes the following steps slippery.
Just below the pass is the beautiful
and well-restored ruin of Phuyupatama-
rka (City Above the Clouds), about 3570m
above sea level. The site contains six beau-
tiful ceremonial baths with water running
through them. From Phuyupatamarka, the
trail makes a dizzying dive into the cloud
forest below, following an incredibly well-
engineered flight of many hundreds of Inca
steps (it’s nerve-racking in the early hours,
use a headlamp). After two or three hours,
the trail eventually zigzags its way down to
a collapsed red-roofed white building that
marks the final night’s campsite.
A 500m trail behind the old, out of use,
pub leads to the exquisite little Inca site of
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y T
Wiñay Wayna (also spelled Huiñay Huayna),
which is variously translated as ‘Forever
Young,’ ‘To Plant the Earth Young’ and ‘Grow-
ing Young’ (as opposed to ‘growing old’). Pe-
ter Frost writes that the Quechua name refers
to an orchid (Epidendrum secundum) that
blooms here year-round. The semitropical
campsite at Wiñay Wayna boasts one of the
most stunning views on the whole trail, es-
pecially at sunrise. For better or worse, the
famous pub located here is now deteriorated
and no longer functioning. A rough trail leads
from this site to another spectacular terraced
ruin, called Intipata, best visited on the day
C ipón
he
u zco
you arrive to Wiñay Wayna, consider coordi-
H ike
nating it with your guide if you are interested.
From the Wiñay Wayna guard post, the
to P uno
trail winds without much change in eleva-
tion through the cliff-hanging cloud forest
for about two hours to reach Intipunku
(Sun Gate) – the penultimate site on the
trail, where it’s tradition to enjoy your first
glimpse of majestic Machu Picchu while
waiting for the sun to rise over the sur-
rounding mountains.
The final triumphant descent takes al-
most an hour. Trekkers generally arrive long
before the morning trainloads of tourists,
and can enjoy the exhausted exhilaration of
reaching their goal without having to push
past enormous groups of tourists fresh off
the first train from Cuzco.
CUZCO TO PUNO
The rickety railway and the paved road to
Lake Titicaca shadow each other as they
both head southeast from Cuzco. En route
you can investigate ancient ruins and pas-
toral Andean towns that are great detours
for intrepid travelers who want to leave the
Gringo Trail far behind. Most of the follow-
ing destinations can be reached on day trips
from Cuzco; for points of interest closer to
Puno, see p170. Inka Express and Turismo
Mer run luxury bus tours (see p229) between
Cuzco and Puno that visit some but not all of
these places. Local and long-distance high-
way buses run more frequently along this
route and are less expensive.
Tipón
A demonstration of the Incas’ mastery over
their environment, this extensive Inca site
(admission with boleto turístico; h7am-6pm) con-
sists of some impressive terracing at the
head of a small valley with an ingenious ir-
rigation system. It’s about 30km from Cuzco,
just before Oropesa. Take any Urcos-bound
bus from opposite the hospital in Av de la
Cultura in Cuzco, or a colectivo from outside
Av Tullumayo 207, and ask to be let off at
the Tipón turnoff (S3, 45 minutes). A steep
dirt road from the turnoff climbs the 4km to
the ruins. You can also contract a taxi tour
from Cuzco (S90) to drive you into the ruins
at Tipón and Piquillacta, wait and bring you
back.
Piquillacta & Rumicolca
Literally translated as ‘the Place of the Flea,’
Piquillacta (admission with boleto turístico;
h7am-6pm) is the only major pre-Inca ruin
in the area, built around AD 1100 by the Wari
culture. The large ceremonial center features
crumbling two-story buildings, all with en-
trances that are strategically located on the
upper floor. It is surrounded by a defensive
wall. The stonework here is much cruder
than that of the Incas. The floors and walls
were paved with slabs of white gypsum, of
which traces remain. On the opposite side
of the road about 1km further east, the huge

Inca gate of Rumicolca is built on Wari foun-
dations. The cruder Wari stonework con-
trasts with the Inca blocks. It’s interesting to
see indigenous people working with the mud
that surrounds the area’s swampy lakes – the
manufacture of adobe (mud bricks) is one of
the main industries of this area.
Urcos-bound buses from Cuzco pass by
both sites.
Andahuaylillas
% 084 / POP 840 / ELEV 3123M
Don’t confuse this place with Andahuaylas,
west of Cuzco. Andahuaylillas is more than
45km southeast of Cuzco, about 7km before
the road splits at Urcos. This pretty Andean
village is most famous for its lavishly deco-
rated Iglesia de San Pedro (admission S10;
h7am-5:30pm), which is almost oppressive
in its baroque embellishments. The church
dates from the 17th century and houses
many carvings and paintings, including a
canvas of the Immaculate Conception attrib-
uted to Esteban Murillo. There are reported-
ly many gold and silver treasures locked in
the church, and the villagers are all involved
in taking turns guarding it 24 hours a day. Is
the rumor true or not? All we can tell you is
that the guards take their job very seriously.
Near the church are the shop of the
Q’ewar Project, a women’s cooperative that
makes distinctive dolls clad in traditional
costumes, and the eclectic Museo Ritos
Andinos (admission by donation; h7am-6pm),
whose somewhat random displays include a
mummified child and an impressive number
of deformed craniums.
To reach Andahuaylillas (S7, one hour),
take any Urcos-bound bus from the terminal
just off Av de la Cultura in Cuzco.
Raqchi
% 084 / POP 320 / ELEV 3480M
The little village of Raqchi, 125km southeast
of Cuzco, is wrapped around an Inca ruin
(admission S10) that looks from the road like
a strange alien aqueduct. These are the re-
mains of the Temple of Viracocha, which
was once one of the holiest shrines in the
Inca empire. Twenty-two columns made
of stone blocks helped support the largest-
known Inca roof; most were destroyed
by the Spanish, but their foundations are
clearly seen. The remains of many houses
259
and storage buildings are also visible, and
reconstruction is an ongoing process.
The people of Raqchi are charming and
environmentally conscious, working peri-
odically to eradicate litter left by visitors.
And they are famous potters – many of the
ceramics on sale in the markets of Pisac and
Chinchero come from here.
You can experience life in Raqchi by
organizing a homestay (%984-82-0598,
984-67-9466; raqchitours55@hotmail.com; pack-
age per person S93). Thirteen families offer
accommodation in basic but comfortable
guestrooms, with private bathrooms and
showers. The point of contact is Humberto
Rodriguez. Packages include all meals, a
night-time fiesta and a highly recommended
day of guided activities. These include a
visit to the ruins (admission not included), a
heart-pumping hike up to the local mirador
(lookout) and a ceramics workshop.
On the third Sunday in June, Raqchi is
the site of a colorful fiesta with much tradi-
tional music and dancing.
Raqchi to Abra La Raya
About 25km past Raqchi is bustling Sicuani,
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y A
a market town of 12,000 people, halfway
from Cuzco to Puno. There’s no real reason
to stop here except to break the journey. A
few economical places to stay are located
near the bus terminal.
Twenty minutes past Sicuani – just be-
fore Abra la Raya, the high pass that marks
the boundary between the Cuzco and Puno
departments – are the Aguas Calientes de
Marangani (admission S5; hdaylight hr). This
complex of five fabulously hot thermal pools
is linked by rustic bridges over unfenced,
boiling tributaries. Quite a sight, it isn’t odd
C he
T
to see locals washing themselves, their kids
ndahuaylillas
u zco
and their clothes in the pools. Consider it an
H ike
accessible, off-the-beaten-track experience.
to the J ungle
You can count on local transport to hop
between Cuzco, Andahuaylillas, Raqchi,
Sicuani and the baths from early morning
until at least 3pm. For points of interest
south of here, see p170.
CUZCO TO THE JUNGLE
There are three overland routes from Cuzco
to the jungle. The least-developed, cheap-
est and quickest goes northwest from Ol-
lantaytambo over the Abra Málaga Pass, to
26 0
the secondary jungle around Quillabamba
and into little-visited Ivochote and Pongo de
Mainique beyond.
The other two routes are more popular
but are rarely accessed by road. You can get
to the area around Parque Nacional Manu
through Paucartambo, Tres Cruces and
Shintuya, or to Puerto Maldonado via Ocon-
gate and Quince Mil. To get deep into these
areas, most people go on organized tours
which include light-plane flights in and out,
or in some cases, 4WD road transport.
Some of these roads are muddy, slow and
dangerous. Think twice before deciding to
travel overland, and don’t even contemplate
it in the wettest months (January to April).
An invaluable resource for independent
travelers is the Peruvian Jungle Informa-
tion Packet, sold by the South American
Explorers Club (%084-24-5484; www.saexplor
ers.org; Atocsaycuchi 670, Cuzco; h9:30am-5pm
Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat).
Cuzco to Ivochote
Soon after Ollantaytambo, the road leaves
the narrowing Sacred Valley and climbs
steeply over the 4350m Abra Málaga. From
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
here it’s a dizzying, scenic, mostly unpaved
descent straight into Amazonia. Dusty
Santa María has bus company offices and
a couple of very basic hospedajes and res-
taurants. It marks the junction where you
turn off for Santa Teresa and the backdoor
route to Machu Picchu, or continue down to
Quillabamba.
SANTA TERESA
% 084 / POP 460 / ELEV 1900M
The makeshift feel of Santa Teresa persists
even some years after the flooding that took
place in 2010, 1998 and a decade before. In
T he
u zco
its tiny center, most buildings are prefabri-
cated emergency-relief shells and, strangely,
H ike
the most permanent construction is the puz-
to Ithe
zling Plaza de Armas statue. Yet as more and
vochote
more backpackers come seeking a cheaper
access point to Machu Picchu, services are
J ungle
slowly starting to grow. The real attractions
are a few kilometers outside town – the Co-
calmayo hot springs and the Cola de Mono
zipline are both worth the time and effort
required to get to them.
1 Sights & Activities
For information on hiking the alternate
route to Machu Picchu, see p38.
Cola de Mono ADVENTURE SPORTS
(%79-2413, 959-743-060; www.canopyperu.com;
zipline US$60) South America’s highest zi-
pline is a must for thrill seekers. A total of
2500m of cables with six separate sections
whiz high above the spectacular scenery of
the Sacsara Valley. Allow two hours.
The owners of Cola de Mono, river guides
from way back, also run rafting on the spec-
tacular, and so far little-exploited, Santa
Teresa river (see p208 for more information)
and camping on their extensive grounds.
To get there, it’s a pleasant 2km (half-
hour) stroll east – just follow the road out of
town or take a taxi (S10).
Llactapata HIKING
You can hike to the hydroelectric station via
Llactapata, a six-hour walk up and over a
hill on the well-marked Inca Trail, affording
views of Machu Picchu and access to a half-
cleared ruin. The trail is well-marked and
can be done without a guide, though they
are helpful to indicate ruins, as well as the
flora and fauna. Start early as it gets hot on
the trail. Hire a taxi (S35, 30 minutes) to drop
you off at the start in Lucmabamba. You can
take a colectivo back from the Hydroelectri-
ca, or continue on to Machu Picchu.
Baños Termales Cocalmayo HOT SPRINGS
(admission S5; h24 hr) These stunningly
landscaped, council-owned natural hot
springs are truly a world-class attraction.
Pools washed out in the river flooding of
2010 have been rebuilt, though camping ar-
eas have not. As if huge, warm pools and a
natural shower straight out of a jungle fan-
tasy weren’t enough, you can buy beer and
snacks.
It’s 4km from town. You can reliably catch
a colectivo from Santa Teresa to Cocalmayo
at around 3pm, when vehicles head down
to collect Inca Jungle Trail walkers arriving
from Santa María. Otherwise, you may have
to brave the unshaded, dusty walk (with cars
driving too fast) or pay a taxi around S36
round-trip.
Tour de Cafe TOUR
(per person S25) Run by Eco Quechua, this
2½-hour tour visits a family coffee farm
steeped in local tradition (see the cuys be-
ing raised in the kitchen!). You can also pick
tropical fruit and see a fish farm in action.
Not a modern operation, this is old-style
cultivation in transition, in the process of
introducing new techniques to improve pro-
 261

YELLOW RIVER LODGE

A cozy, lazy option on the alternative route to Machu Picchu, this welcoming family
homestay (%63-0209; www.quellomayo.com; r per person with half-board S60, camping per
person S10) is an organic farm harvesting Arabica bean coffee, chocolate and tropical
fruit. Simple rooms have comfortable beds and colorful walls, but you are likely to spend
most of your time exploring the lush surroundings. Home cooked meals (S15 to S20)
are available at the restaurant. If you want to learn more about coffee, there are roasting
workshops onsite.
The riverside campsite includes a shower, grill and adobe oven. It’s located in Quello-
mayo, 25 minutes outside of Santa María on the way to Santa Teresa. To get there, take a
bus from Cuzco to Santa María and grab a taxi (S25 to S50) from there or trek via an old
Inca trail – the website has details.

ductivity. It’s an interesting visit and 50% of Hotel El Sol HOTEL $

visitor fees goes to help local farmers.
4 Sleeping & Eating
A handful of hospedajes in the center offers
bare-bones accommodation. At the time of
research, there were no recommendable
restaurants in town. Hot meals are avail-
able at the market and the rotisserie chicken
restaurants on the plaza – choose based on
cleanliness.
oEco Quechua
(%63-7158; Av Calixto Sanchez G-6; s/d S40/60)
This partially finished cement multistory is
one of the best deals in town, though prices
may go up as the building does! Friendly, it
features nice, clean rooms with bright sheet
sets, hot water bathrooms and cable TV.
8 Information
There are no banks or ATMs in Santa Teresa –
you must bring all the cash you need. You may
be able to change dollars at an extremely unfa-

Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C

LODGE $
(%63-0877, 984-756-855; www.ecoquechua.com;
Sauce Pampa; per person with half-board S75,
camping per tent S12) Run by Juan Carlos and
Janet, a wonderful and energetic young
couple, this funky thatched lodge lets you
sample jungle living right outside of Santa
Teresa. The open-air living room is cloaked
in thick vegetation. Rooms feature mosquito
nets, but it’s still a good idea to use repellant.
With outdoor stall bathrooms, it’s a lit-
tle rustic, but undoubtedly the most ambi-
ent spot in Santa Teresa and a fun place for
vorable rate. Internet access is poor, but avail-
able in a few cafes.
Cusco Medical Assistance in Carrión provides
24-hour medical attention.
8 Getting There & Away
To get to Santa Teresa from Cuzco, take a bus
headed for Quillabamba from the Santiago ter-
minal, get off in Santa María, and catch a local
combi or colectivo (S10, one hour) to Santa Ter-
esa. These shared vans and wagons take on the
winding, dirt road to Santa Teresa like Formula
One competitors – try to chose one who seems
more conservative, it’s a lot to stomach.
To get to Machu Picchu, train tickets on this
T he

groups to congregate. The owner is also a

u zco

guide knowledgeable about local hikes and route are sold only at the Peru Rail ticket office.
Daily trains (one-way/return US$18/30) leave
H ike

tours. At the time of research, the shorter

from the hydroelectric station, about 8km from
route from town was under reparation and
to Ithe

Santa Teresa, at 7:54am, 3pm, and 4:35pm. Be

it was a S30 taxi ride. at the bus terminal an hour prior to your train to
vochote

Albergue Municipal HOSTEL $ catch a combi (S3, 25 minutes). The 13km train
ride to Aguas Calientes takes 45 minutes. Some
J ungle

(%984-145-049; dm/d S20/60) Next to the

football field, this gated circular compound
is one of the best options in town. It has a
manicured lawn and cool, spacious rooms.
Doubles feature tile floors and mini-fridges.
The one dorm holds up to 11 people. Book
ahead via the municipality. If the gate is
closed, the caretaker may be out.
choose to walk by the railway tracks instead, an
outstandingly cheap way to get to Machu Pic-
chu; it takes around four very dusty and sweaty
hours.
You can also do this route as part of one of the
guided multisport tours on offer (see p38).
Combis going directly to Quillabamba (S10,
two hours) depart from Santa María’s Plaza de
Armas every 15 minutes. Colectivos to Santa
María leave often from the bus terminal. From
262
Santa María you can connect to Cuzco (S25-50,
five to six hours).
QUILLABAMBA
% 084 / POP 8800 / ELEV 1050M
Welcome to the jungle! Quillabamba’s tropi-
cal vibe is palpable, with heat that becomes
oppressive by 9am, music that blares all
night, and the land-that-time-forgot feel to
most hotels and restaurants.
Quillabamba itself has few attractions
and sees little tourism, but there are some
outstanding, watery natural attractions
nearby. The streets north and south of the
Mercado Central, rather than the eternally
somnolent Plaza de Armas, are Quillabam-
ba’s commercial center.
1 Sights & Activities
Locals are justifiably proud of Sanbaray (ad-
mission S5; h8am-late), a delightful complex
of swimming pools, lawns, bars and a decent
trout restaurant. It’s a 10-minute mototaxi
ride (S3) from the center.
La Balsa, hidden far down a dire dirt
track, is a bend in the Río Urubamba that’s
perfect for swimming and river tubing. En-
terprising locals sell beer and food here on
weekends.
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
Mandor, Siete Tinajas and Pacchac are
beautiful waterfalls where you can swim,
climb and eat jungle fruit straight off the
tree. Siete Tinajas and Pacchac are accessi-
ble via public transport for a few soles each
to Charate; taxi transport to Mandor with
waiting time will set you back S25.
T Tours & Guides
Eco Trek Peru ADVENTURE TOUR
(%in Cuzco 24-7286; www.ecotrekperu.com) This
agency has passionate specialists in multi-
day trips in this part of the world.
T he
Bici Aventura BIKING
u zco
(Calle 2 de Mayo 423) Provides information,
H ike
bikes and guides for road and single-track
to Ithe
missions.
vochote
Roger Jara GUIDED TOUR
(rogerjaraalmiron@hotmail.com) Guided trips to
J ungle
all of the attractions listed above, as well as
remnant virgin jungle near Quillabamba.
Roger can also guide you through the area’s
big draws, Pongo de Mainique and Vil-
cabamba. He speaks some English.
4 Sleeping
There are many cheap, cold-water hostels
around the Plaza de Armas and the Mercado.
Hostal Don Carlos HOTEL $$
(%28-1150; www.hostaldoncarlosquillabamba.com;
Jirón Libertad 556; s/d/tr S75/110/120; i) With
an onsite cafe, this colonial-style hotel fea-
tures bright, ample rooms around a sunny
interior courtyard. Rooms have hot showers
and frigobars. It’s half a block from the Plaza
de Armas.
Hostal Alto Urubamba HOTEL $
(%28-1131; altourubamba@gmail.com; 2 de Mayo
333; s/d/tr S45/75/85, s/d/tr without bathroom
S20/30/40) Clean, comfortable-enough
rooms with fans encircle a sunny courtyard
in this dementedly noisy, long-established
traveler favorite.
5 Eating & Drinking
Looking at the heladerías (ice-cream shops)
on every corner, you could be forgiven for
assuming that locals subsist on ice cream.
Given the shortage of alternatives, you could
be forgiven for doing the same.
Pizzería Alamos PIZZERIA $
(Espinar s/n; pizzas from S10; h7am-11pm Mon-
Sat, 3-11pm Sun) No other place in town is
quite so kind to foreign tourists. Staffed by
enthusiastic youth, this restaurant fires up
pizzas that are big enough to feed an army
of Inca warriors, and the open-air courtyard
bar is a local hangout after dark.
Heladería la Esquina ICE CREAM $
(cnr Espinar & Libertad; sandwiches from S3;
h8am-11pm Mon-Sat) This retro cafe serves
up delicious juices, cakes, ice cream and
fast-food snacks. Service is grouchy, but the
1950s-diner decor makes up for that.
Niko’s BAR
(Pio Concha s/n) For a drink, try Niko’s.
8 Information
BCP (Libertad 549) and Banco Continental on
Bolognesi near the corner of Grau have ATMs
and change US dollars. There’s arm-chewingly
slow internet access at a few places around the
Plaza de Armas. Limited tourist information is
available on the 3rd floor of the Municipalidad.
8 Getting There & Away
Walk south along Torre four blocks past Plaza
Grau, to Plaza de Banderas, to find transport to
Huancacalle. Turn right at the end of Plaza de
Banderas to find minivans (S35, five to seven
hours) to Cuzco in the first block, and the termi-
nal terrestre a block later. Buses for Cuzco (S25)
leave from here several times a day before 8am
and between 1:30pm and 9:30pm. Minivans
leave early in the morning and in the evening. All
 26 3

BE SAFE IN THE JUNGLE

In recent times, the increased activity of narcotraffickers and Shining Path guerillas in
specific jungle areas may alter advisable routes for travel and trekking. At the time of
writing, the government was increasing military presence in these areas for security.
However, it is always wise to consult with knowledgeable guides and tour operators, or
an unaffiliated organization like South American Explorers (p260), before heading out. It
is important to use good, responsible local guides and never go on your own. Currently,
it is unadvisable to visit Vilcabamba, Ivochote, Kiteni and beyond, but we have included
information on these areas as the situation is subject to change.

stop at Ollantaytambo and Urubamba en route,
but charge full fare wherever you get off.
Minivans leave from Quillabamba’s market
area for Kiteni (three to six hours) and Ivochote
(six to eight hours), further into the jungle.
8 Getting Around
The basic mototaxi fare around town is S2.
HUANCACALLE
% 084 / POP 300 / ELEV 3200M
Peaceful, pretty Huancacalle is best known
as the jumping-off point for treks to Vil-
cabamba, but many more hikes from three
to 10 days long are possible from here,
including to Puncuyo, Inca Tambo, Cho-
quequirau and Machu Picchu. The town’s
ther Huancacalle or Kiteni. This area may be
insecure, see the boxed text.
IVOCHOTE & BEYOND
At the time of writing, this area was consid-
ered unsafe for travelers, given activity of
guerilla groups and narcotraffickers. Since
the government has engaged in an active
campaign to curb illicit activity, this may
change by the time you read this. Regard-
less, it is wise to ask outfitters knowledge-
able about the area about current conditions
before traveling.
A long eight-hour-plus bus journey from
Quillabamba takes you through the oil
town of Kiteni and on to the more remote

Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C

biggest building is Hostal Manco Sixpac
(%84-6006, 84-005, relative in Cuzco 974-922-
484; per person without bathroom S20), run by
the Cobos family of local guides. It’s the only
lodging with hot water. You can organize
mules and guides here.
Manco Inca’s huge palace fortress of
Vitcos (also known as Rosaspata) is an
hour’s walk up the hill, and from there you
can continue to the amazing, sacred white
rock of Yurac Rumi. The whole easy-to-fol-
low circuit, which starts just over the bridge
at the end of the road, takes a leisurely three
Ivochote, a small jungle village with a few
basic accommodations. This base connects
further into Amazonia by river.
The first major landmark past Ivochote is
the Pongo de Mainique, a steep-walled can-
yon carved by cascading waterfalls on the
lower Río Urubamba, which marks the bor-
der between Amazonia’s high and lowland
cloud forest. Prolific bird life here includes
military macaws and quetzals; there are
also spider monkeys and many orchid varie-
ties. Between June and November, boats can
be found in Ivochote to take you there and
T he

back – the trip takes the best part of a day.

u zco

hours, including plenty of time for photos

and admiration of both scenery and ruins. You’ll pay anything from S60 to S450 per
H ike

person; group size is a big factor.

to Ithe

VILCABAMBA Past the Pongo, at the indigenous Mat-

The real ‘lost city of the Incas,’ Vilcabamba – siguenka (or Machigengua) community of
vochote

also known as Espíritu Pampa – is what Hiram Timpía, you can find local guides and trans-
Bingham was looking for when he stumbled port for Santuario Nacional Megantoni. Ac-
J ungle

on Machu Picchu. The beleaguered Manco commodation is available at Sabeti Lodge

Inca and his followers fled to this jungle
retreat after being defeated by the Span-
iards at Ollantaytambo in 1536. The long,
low-altitude trek, which takes four to nine
days, is very rugged, with many steep ascents
and descents before reaching Vilcabamba,
1000m above sea level. You can start at ei-
(%84-81-2555, 84-81-3885; www.sabetilodge.com;
s/d with full board US$105/160), owned by the
community. There’s fishing and wildlife
watching. You can also camp on the river-
side. Given that instructions are needed to
arrive, it’s best to reserve ahead.
26 4
and take plenty of warm clothing. Camping
Cuzco to Manu is possible but take all your own supplies.
PAUCARTAMBO Tres Cruces is within Parque Nacional
POP 1300 / ELEV 3200M Manu. For details of the onward trip to Shin-
This small village lies on the eastern slopes tuya and the Manu area, see p455.
of the Andes, about 115km and three hours
northeast of Cuzco along a cliff-hanging
road, paved only until Huancarán. Cuzco to Puerto
Paucartambo is famous for its riotously Maldonado
colorful celebration in honor of the Virgen
Almost 500km long, this road takes a day
del Carmen, a festival held annually from
to travel in the dry season. Most travelers
July 15 to 18, with hypnotic street dancing,
choose to fly from Cuzco to Puerto Maldo-
wonderful processions and all manner of
nado. Now paved, this route is part of the
weird costumes. The highly symbolic dances
Interoceánica, a highway that unites the
are inspired by everything from fever-ridden
east and west coasts of South America for
malaria sufferers to the homosexual practic-
the first time.
es of the Spanish conquistadors.
Various companies depart from Cuzco’s
Accommodation for the festival needs to
terminal terrestre for Puerto Maldonado
be organized in advance; you either have to
between 3pm and 4.30pm daily. CIVA
find a room in one of a few basic hotels or
(S60, 17 hours, departs 4pm) is probably
hope a local will give you some floor space.
the best option. If you want to split up the
Many tourist agencies in Cuzco run buses
journey, the best places to stop are Ocon-
specifically for the fiesta and can help ar-
gate and Quince Mil, which have basic
range accommodations with local families.
accommodations.
Transportes Gallito de las Rocas
The route heads toward Puno until soon
(%084-22-6895; Diagonal Angamos, 1st block off
after Urcos, where the road to Puerto Mal-
Av de la Cultura, Cuzco) buses depart Cuzco to
donado begins. About 75km and 2½ hours
Paucartambo (S9, three hours) daily and to
from Cuzco, you come to the highland town
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C

Pilcopata (S20, 10 to 12 hours) on Monday,

Wednesday and Friday. Look for ‘Paucar-
tambo’ painted on a lamp post between auto
shops to find the office.
TRES CRUCES
About two hours beyond Paucartambo is the
extraordinary jungle view at Tres Cruces,
a lookout off the Paucartambo–Shintuya
road. The sight of the mountains dropping
away into the Amazon Basin is gorgeous in
itself, but is made all the more magical by
the sunrise phenomenon that occurs from
May to July (other months are cloudy), espe-
T he
u zco
of Ocongate, which has a couple of basic
hotels around the plaza.
From here, trucks go to the village of
Tinqui, an hour’s drive beyond Ocongate,
which is the starting point for the spectacular
seven-day trek encircling Ausangate (6384m),
the highest mountain in southern Peru.
After Tinqui, the road drops steadily to
Quince Mil, 240km from Cuzco, less than
1000m above sea level, and the halfway
point of the journey. The area is a gold-min-
ing center, and the hotel here is often full.
After another 100km, the road into the jun-

cially around the time of the winter solstice gle reaches the flatlands, where it levels out
on June 21. The sunrise here gets optically for the last 140km into Puerto Maldonado.
H ike

distorted, causing double images, halos and

to M

AUSANGATE
an incredible multicolored light show. At
Snowcapped Ausangate (6384m), the high-
the

this time of year, many travel agencies and

anu

est mountain in southern Peru, can be seen

outdoor adventure outfitters run sunrise-
from Cuzco on a clear day. Hiking a circuit
J ungle

watching trips from Cuzco.

around its skirts is the most challenging
During Paucartambo’s Fiesta de la Virgen
alpine hike in the region. It takes five to
del Carmen, minibuses run back and forth
six days and crosses four high passes (two
between Paucartambo and Tres Cruces all
over 5000m). The route begins in the roll-
night long. You can also take a truck en
ing brown puna (grasslands of the Andean
route to Pillcopata and ask to be let off at
plateau) and features stunningly varied
the turnoff to Tres Cruces (a further 13km
scenery, including fluted icy peaks, tum-
walk). Alternatively, ask around in Paucar-
bling glaciers, turquoise lakes and green
tambo to hire a truck. Make sure you leave
marshy valleys. Along the way you’ll stum-
in the middle of the night to catch the dawn,

ble across huge herds of alpacas and tiny
hamlets unchanged in centuries. The walk
starts and finishes at Tinqui, where there
are warm mineral springs and a basic ho-
tel, and mules and arrieros (horsemen) are
available for about S30 per day each. Aver-
age price is US$500 for an organized, tent-
based trek with operators such as Apus
Peru (%23-2691; www.apus-peru.com) or spe-
cialist guides.
For a luxurious, lodge-based experience
of Ausangate, check out Andean Lodges
(%22-4613; www.andeanlodges.com; from
US$610). Ecofriendly technologies are used
in bathrooms and restaurants.
CUZCO TO THE CENTRAL
HIGHLANDS
Traveling by bus from Cuzco to Lima via
Abancay and Nazca takes you along a re-
mote route closed from the late 1980s until
the late 1990s due to guerilla activity and
banditry. It is now much safer, and paved.
You should still check recent news reports
before heading out this way as rainy season
landslides can really slow a trip. Going west
from Abancay to Andahuaylas and Ayacu-
cho is a tough ride on a rough road rarely
used except by the most hardcore travelers.
Cuzco to Abancay
There are several worthwhile stops along
this four-hour, 200km ride. It’s possible to
make a day out of visiting one or two, bus
hopping your way to Abancay. Start by
catching a colectivo to Limatambo (S12, two
hours) from Arcopata in Cuzco.
Limatambo, 80km west of Cuzco, is
named after the Inca site of Rimactambo,
also popularly known as Tarawasi (admission
S10), which is situated beside the road, about
2km west of town. The site was used as a
ceremonial center, as well as a resting place
for the Inca chasquis (Inca runners who de-
livered messages over long distances). The
exceptional polygonal retaining wall, note-
worthy for its 28 human-sized niches, is in
itself worth the trip from Cuzco. On the wall
below it, look for flower shapes and a nine-
sided heart amid the patchwork of perfectly
interlocking stones. There is basic, hard-to-
find accommodation in Limatambo.
The natural thermal baths of Cconoc
(admission S3) are a 3km walk downhill from
26 5
a turnoff 10km east of minor transport hub
Corahuasi, 1½ hours east of Abancay. They
have a restaurant, a bar, taxis and a basic
hotel.
The Inca site of Saihuite (admission S10),
45km east of Abancay, has a sizable, intri-
cately carved boulder called the Stone of
Saihuite, which is similar to the famous
sculpted rock at Q’enqo, near Cuzco, though
it’s smaller and more elaborate. The carv-
ings of animals are particularly intricate.
Ask to be let off at the turnoff to the ruins,
from where it is a 1km walk downhill.
Cachora, 15km from the highway from
the same turnoff as Saihuite, is the most
common starting point for the hike to Cho-
quequirau. There are a few guesthouses, a
campground and local guides and mules for
hire.
Choquequirau
Remote, spectacular, and still not entirely
cleared, the ruins of Choquequirau are of-
ten described as a mini-Machu Picchu. This
breathtaking site at the junction of three riv-
ers – and the fairly challenging four-day hike
required to get there and back – has been
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y C
firmly positioned as ‘the next big thing’ for
the last few years.
It seems inevitable that controls and per-
mits will be introduced in time. In theory,
travelers can organize this walk on their own
easily, but at the time of research, essential
footbridges were out and it was not possible
to make the hike. Inquire with operators
first, even if you plan on going on your own.
A guided version costs US$380 on aver-
age. Apus Peru (%84-23-2691; www.apus-peru.
com) joins this trek up with the Inca Trail, for
a total of nine days of spectacular scenery
T he
and an ever-more-impressive parade of Inca
u zco
ruins culminating in Machu Picchu.
H ike
to A
Abancay
the
bancay
% 083 / POP 13,800 / ELEV 2378M
C entral H ighlands
This sleepy rural town is the capital of the
department of Apurímac, one of the least-
explored regions in the Peruvian Andes.
Travelers may opt to use it as a rest stop on
the long, tiring bus journey between Cuzco
and Ayacucho.
Jirón Arequipa, with banks, is the main
commercial street; its continuation, Av las
Arenas, has restaurants and entertainment.
26 6

THE Q’OYORITI PILGRIMAGE

Important geographical features such as rivers and mountains are apus (sacred deities)
for the Andean people, and are possessed of kamaq (vital force). At 6384m, Ausangate
is the Cuzco department’s highest mountain and the most important apu in the area –
the subject of countless legends. It is considered the pakarina (mythical place of sacred
origin) of llamas and alpacas, and controls the health and fertility of these animals. Its
freezing heights are also where condemned souls are doomed to wander as punishment
for their sins.
Ausangate is the site of the traditional festival of Q’oyoriti (Star of the Snow), held in
late May or early June between the Christian feasts of the Ascension and Corpus Christi.
Despite its overtly Catholic aspect – it’s officially all about the icy image of Christ that
appeared here in 1783 – the festival remains primarily and obviously a celebration and
appeasement of the apu, consisting of four or more days of literally nonstop music and
dance. Incredibly elaborate costumes and dances – featuring, at the more extreme end,
llama fetuses and mutual whipping – repetitive brass-band music, fireworks, and much
throwing of holy water all contribute to a dizzy, delirious spectacle. Highly unusual: no
alcohol is allowed. Offenders are whipped by anonymous men dressed as ukukus (moun-
tain spirits) with white masks that hide their features, who maintain law and order.
It’s a belief fervently held by many cuzqueños (inhabitants of Cuzco) that if you attend
Q’oyoriti three times, you’ll get your heart’s desire. The traditional way to go about this is
to buy an alacita (miniature scale model) of your desire. Houses, cars, trucks, petrol sta-
tions, university degrees, driver’s licenses, money: the usual human desires are on offer
for a few soles at stalls lining the pilgrimage pathway. You then line up in the church to
have it blessed by a priest. Repeat three years in a row and see what happens.
Q’oyoriti is a pilgrimage – the only way in is by trekking three or more hours up a
mountain, traditionally in the wee small hours to arrive around dawn. The sight of a solid,
endless line of people quietly wending their way up or down the track and disappearing
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y A

around a bend in the mountain is unforgettable, as is Q’oyoriti’s eerie, other-worldly feel.

The fact that everyone’s sober at a party gives it an unusual vibe. The majority of attend-
ees are traditionally dressed campesinos for whom seeing a foreigner may be a novelty
(they may even point you out).
Discomfort is another aspect of the pilgrimage. Q’oyoriti takes place at an altitude of
4750m, where glaciers flow down into the Sinakara Valley. It’s brutally cold, and there’s
no infrastructure, no town here, just one big elaborate church (complete with flashing
lights around the altar) built to house the image of El Señor de Q’oyoriti (The Christ of
Q’oyoriti). The temporary toilets are a major ordeal. The blue plastic sea of restaurants,
stalls and tents is all carried in, on foot or donkey. The whole thing is monumentally strik-
ing: a temporary tent city at the foot of a glacier, created and dismantled yearly to honor
two mutually contradictory yet coexisting religions in a festival with dance and costumes
whose origins no one can remember.
C ights
S bancay
u zco to

1 Sights & Activities a chance to see festival celebrations unaf-

& Activities

During the dry season (late May to Septem- fected by tourism. It includes a nationally
the C entral H ighlands

ber), hikers and climbers may want to take
advantage of the best weather to head for
the sometimes snowcapped peak of Ampay
(5228m), about 10km north-northwest of
town. The mountain is also the center of the
3635-hectare Santuario Nacional Ampay,
where camping and birding are good.
z Festivals & Events
Abancay has a particularly colorful Carna-
val held in the week before Lent, which is
acclaimed folk-dancing competition. Book
ahead or arrive before the festivities start.
Abancay Day, the anniversary of the town’s
founding, happens on November 3.
4 Sleeping & Eating
Accommodations are geared more toward
business travelers than tourists. There are
plenty of restaurants and cafes on Arenas,
with a fair share of rotisserie joints and chi-
fas. Abancay’s nightlife centers on Arenas
and Pasaje Valdivia just off it.

Hotel Turistas HISTORIC HOTEL $$
(%32-1017; www.turismoapurimac.com; Díaz Bár-
cenas 500; s S62-98, d S107-148; iW) A colonial
mansion with a whiff of former grandeur,
it’s nonetheless a city landmark. Rooms
are plain for what you might imagine, but
comfortable, with phones and TVs. Break-
fast is included but the coffee is not recom-
mended. Be sure to ask for the 18% tax to be
discounted.
Hotel Saywa HOTEL $
(%32-4876; www.hotelsaywa.com; Arenas 302;
s/d/tr incl breakfast S60/75/120; W) A friendly
spot with good options for solo travelers. At-
tractive rooms have parquet floors and TV,
there’s also an onsite tour agency.
Villa Venecia PERUVIAN $$
(%50-4662; Av Bella Abanquina; mains from S15;
h11am-4pm) Worth the short taxi ride (it’s
behind the stadium), Villa Venecia is Aban-
cay’s most noteworthy restaurant. Serving
up every local food imaginable, it’s the living
embodiment of the Peruvian mantra ‘bueno,
barato y bastante’ – ‘good, cheap and plenti-
ful.’ The tallarines (spaghetti) are an Aban-
cay specialty.
8 Getting There & Away
Colectivos to Corahuasi via Saihuite (S10, 1½
hours) leave from Jirón Huancavelica, two
blocks uphill from Arenas. Vehicles to Cachora
leave from one block further uphill. Buses to-
wards Cuzco, Andahuaylas and Lima leave from
the terminal terrestre.
At least seven companies run buses to Cuzco
(S15, five hours), clustered around 6am, 11am
and 11pm. Dozens of buses depart to Lima (S60
to S170, 14 to 18 hours) every day, mostly in the
afternoon and between 10:30pm and midnight.
Departures to Andahuaylas (S10, five hours)
cluster around 11:30am and 11:30pm. The faster,
more comfortable minibuses to Andahuaylas
(S20, four hours) are a little bit reckless.
Terminal departure tax is S1. Taxis go to the
center (S3).
Andahuaylas
% 083 / POP 6800 / ELEV 2980M
Andahuaylas, 135km west of Abancay on
the way to Ayacucho, is the second-most
important town in the department of
Apurímac, and a convenient halfway stop
on the rough but scenic route between Cuz-
co and Ayacucho.
267
1 Sights & Activities
Andahuaylas’ main attraction, the beautiful
Laguna de Pacucha, is 17km from town
and accessible by bus or taxi. About 15km
past the end of the lake is the imposing hill-
top site of Sondor, built by the Chanka cul-
ture. The Chankas were traditional enemies
of the Incas, but evidently shared their ap-
preciation of a good view. You can easily ac-
cess both the lake and the ruin by catching a
microbus to Sondor (S3, one hour) from the
corner of Av Martinelli and Av Casafranca.
Go in the morning – transport peters out by
4pm. You can also take a taxi.
Both Andahuaylas and Pacucha have Sun-
day markets that are worth perusing.
z Festivals & Events
The annual Fiesta de Yahuar (Blood Feast)
is on July 28, when traditional dances
and music are performed. In the village of
Pacucha, the festival includes lashing a con-
dor to the back of a bull and allowing the
two to fight in a representation of the high-
land people’s struggle against the Spanish
conquistadors.
4 Sleeping
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y A
You can’t always expect a hot shower in an
Andahuaylas hotel, but you can undoubt-
edly count on cable TV. Go figure.
Sol de Oro HOTEL $
(%42-1152; soldeorohotel@hotmail.com; Jr Trelles
164; s/d incl breakfast S70/80; iW) The best
Andahuaylas has to offer, this remodeled
hotel has comfortable beds and hot showers
and receives happy reviews from guests.
El Encanto de Oro Hotel HOTEL $
(%42-3066; www.hotelandahuaylas.com; Av Casa-
franca 424; s/d/tr incl breakfast S50/80/100; W)
C ndahuaylas
8 u zco to the C entral H ighlands
Features spotlessly clean rooms of varying
shapes and sizes, all with frilly curtains and
phones. Friendly and caring, near the mar-
ket and the Pachuco bus stop.
Imperio Chanka HOTEL $$
(%42-3065; www.imperiochankahotel.com; Vallejo
384; s/d incl breakfast S80/100) With a modern
look, this multi-story cement building fea-
tures good, clean rooms that are well looked
after. There’s also an onsite restaurant.
Hostal Cruz del Sur HOTEL $
(%42-1571; Andahuaylas 117; d S45, s/d/tr without
bathroom S20/30/45) This is the best cheap
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
26 8
choice in town, with spacious rooms off out-
door balconies around a flowery patio.
5 Eating & Drinking
El Cappuccino CAFE $
(%42-1790; Cáceres Tresierra 321; mains from S9;
h9am-11pm Mon-Sat; i) This cheery, breezy,
French-run place is a haven of Western
home comforts: yummy crepes, waffles
and sandwiches, loads of vegetarian op-
tions, Andahuaylas’ best coffee, plus books,
magazines and games. A deservedly popular
hangout with both locals and travelers.
Chifa El Dragón CHINESE $
(%42-1749; cnr Ramos & Trelles; menú from S8;
h7am-10pm) El Dragón is a smart restaurant
serving Chinese dishes with a touch of cri-
ollo influence.
8 Information
BCP (Ramón Castilla s/n) has an ATM and
changes US dollars. There’s a Western Union
office and several casas de cambio on Ramón
Castilla. There are plenty of internet cafes, some
fast – look for the Speedy sign. Clínica Señor de
Huanca (%42-1418; Andahuaylas 108) provides
24-hour emergency medical attention.
Cuzco & the Sacred Valle y A
C ating
E ndahuaylas
u zco to
& Dthe
rinking
C entral H ighlands
8 Getting There & Away
Air
LC Peru (%in Lima 1-204-1313; www.lcperu.pe)
flies daily to Lima (S292). Explora Apurímac
(%42-2877; Plaza de Armas s/n; h8am-1pm &
3-8pm) travel agency books tickets. A taxi to the
airport will cost about S25.
Bus
Heading east, Celtur (%42-2337; cnr Vallejo
& Ugarte), Señor de Huanca (%42-1218; Mar-
tinelli 170), Expreso los Chankas (%42-2441;
Malećon Grau s/n) and Molina Union (%42-
1248; Av los Sauces s/n) run daily to Cuzco
(S25, nine hours) via Abancay (S10, five hours)
throughout the day.
Several companies run faster, more comfort-
able and expensive minibuses to Abancay (S20,
four hours).
Heading west, Celtur and Los Chankas have
daily services to Ayacucho around 7am and 7pm
(S35, six to seven hours). Direct buses to Lima
(S70, 20 to 22 hours) are run by Wari (%42-
1936; Malecón Grau s/n) at 6am, 11am, 2pm and
5pm, and Molina Union at 10am and 4pm.
Bus companies leave from the terminal ter-
restre but arrive to their offices, except Expreso
Molino and Wari, which only use their own of-
fices. Minibus companies all operate out of the
terminal. Terminal departure tax is S1.

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use,
access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair
to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other
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email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions
on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with
our content.’
 PD
F
China
The Great Wall
(PDF Chapter)
Edition 14th Edition, May 2015
Pages 8
Page Range 117–124 COVERAGE INCLUDES:
Useful Links • Mùtiányù
Want more guides? • Gǔběikǒu
Head to our shop • Jiànkòu
• Zhuàngdàokǒu
Trouble with your PDF?
Trouble shoot here • Jīnshānlǐng
• Bādálǐng
Need more help?
Head to our FAQs
Stay in touch
Contact us here

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair
to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it
to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’.
The Great Wall
Includes 
Visiting the Wall . . . . . . 118
Mùtiányù . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Gǔběikǒu . . . . . . . . . . . 119
Jiànkòu . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
Zhuàngdàokǒu . . . . . . . 121
Jīnshānlǐng . . . . . . . . . 122
Bādálǐng . . . . . . . . . . . 123
He who has not climbed the Great Wall is not a true man.
Mao Zedong
China’s greatest engineering triumph and must-see sight,
the Great Wall (万里长城; Wànlǐ Chángchéng) wriggles
haphazardly from its scattered Manchurian remains in
Liáoníng province to wind-scoured rubble in the Gobi de-
sert and faint traces in the unforgiving sands of Xīnjiāng.
The most renowned and robust examples undulate majes-
tically over the peaks and hills of Běijīng municipality – what
we focus on here – but the Great Wall can be realistically vis-
ited in many other north China provinces.
Great Wall History
The ‘original’ wall was begun more than 2000 years ago
during the Qin dynasty (221–207 BC), when China was uni-
fied under Emperor Qin Shi Huang. Separate walls that had
been constructed by independent kingdoms to keep out ma-
rauding nomads were linked together. The effort required
hundreds of thousands of workers – many of whom were
political prisoners.
Ming engineers made determined efforts to revamp the
eroding bastion, facing it with some 60 million cubic me-
tres of bricks and stone slabs. This project took more than
a century, and the cost in human effort and resources was
phenomenal. The picture-postcard brick-clad modern-day
manifestations of the Great Wall date from Ming times.
The wall occasionally served its impractical purpose but
ultimately failed as an impenetrable line of defence. Genghis
Khan dryly noted, ‘The strength of a wall depends on the cour-
age of those who defend it’. Sentries could be bribed. Despite
the wall, the Mongol armies managed to impose foreign rule
on China from 1279 to 1368, and again the bastion failed to
prevent the Manchu armies from establishing two and a half
centuries of non-Chinese rule over the Middle Kingdom. The
wall did not even register with the 19th-century European
‘barbarians’ who simply arrived by sea, and by the time the
Japanese invaded, it had been outflanked by new technologies
(such as the aeroplane).
118
The wall was largely forgotten after that.
Mao Zedong encouraged the use of the wall
as a source of free building material, a habit
that continues unofficially today. Without its
cladding, lengthy sections have dissolved to
dust and the barricade might have vanished
entirely without the tourist industry.
Visiting the Wall
The heavily reconstructed section at
Th e G re at Wa ll V I S I T I N G t h e Wa l l
such as a side trip to the Ming Tombs or a
gem factory. Most of the Běijīng hostels we’ve
reviewed run decent Great Wall trips. The fol-
lowing reputable companies and associations
run recommended trips to the Wall:
Bespoke Běijīng (www.bespokebeijing.com)
Great Wall Hiking (www.greatwallhiking.com)
China Hiking (www.chinahiking.cn)
Běijīng Hikers (www.beijinghikers.com)
Bike Běijīng (www.bikebeijing.com) For

Bādálǐng is the most touristy part of the cycling trips.

Wall. Mùtiányù and Jīnshānlǐng are also
restored sections. These can feel less than
authentic, but have the advantage of be-
ing much more accessible (with cable cars,
handrails etc). Huánghuā Chéng and
Zhuàngdàokǒu are part-restored, part-
‘wild’ and offer some short but challenging
hikes. Unrestored sections of ‘wild wall’ in-
clude Gǔběikǒu and Jiànkòu, but there are
many others. All of the above can be reached
using public transport (you can even get to
Bādálǐng by train!), although some people
choose to hire a car to speed things up. Stay-
ing overnight by the Wall is recommended.
Tours run by hostels (¥250 to ¥300 per per-
son), or by specialist tour companies (up to
¥1000 per person), are far preferable to those
run by ordinary hotels or general travel com-
panies, which often come with hidden extras,
Běijīng Sideways (www.beijingsideways.com)
For trips in a motorbike sidecar.
Mùtiányù 慕田峪
Mùtiányù (慕田峪长城; Mùtiányù Chángchéng;
adult/student ¥45/25; h 7am-6.30pm summer,
7.30am-5.30pm, winter) is a recently renovated
stretch of wall, which sees a lot of tourists
but is fairly easy to reach. It’s also well set
up for families.
Famed for its Ming-era guard towers and
excellent views, this 3km-long section of wall
is largely a recently restored Ming-dynasty
structure that was built upon an earlier North-
ern Qi–dynasty edifice. With 26 watchtowers,
the wall is impressive and manageable, and

The Great Wall 0

0
40 km
20 miles

HÉB¦I
Coiled Dragon
HÉB¦I Great Wall
J¸nshƒnl¨ng
Great Wall
Crouching Tiger G©b›ik¡u
H†ituó r Mountain
Mountain ive Great Wall
(2241m) Bai R
SŸngshƒn Jiànkòu
Nature Reserve Huánghuƒ Great Wall Mìyún S¸m†tái
Great Wall Mùtiányù Reservoir Great Wall
G¥yáj¥ Great Wall
Yánqìng
Shu¨ Chángchéng Zhuàngdàok¡u Yànqj¸
Bƒdál¨ng Ming Mìyún
Great Wall Tombs Zhuàngdàok¡u Húdòngshu¨
Great Wall Huáiróu
Chƒngpíng Mo Pan
un
tai
Shùnyì ns
Mt Líng Língshu¨ Botanic
(2303m) Gardens

Chuànd¨xià Zhƒitáng Fragrant TI„NJ¹N

Hills Park
TŸngzhŸu
Tánzhè Marco B¦IJ¹NG
Temple Polo DÀCH‡NG
Bridge
(Autonomous
Shui¨yù
Shídù Dàx¸ng Muslim County)

although it can get crowded, most souvenir
hawking is reserved to the lower levels.
From the ticket office, there are three or
four stepped pathways leading up to the wall,
plus a cable car (缆车; lǎn chē; one-way/
return ¥60/80, children half-price), a chair-
lift (索道; suǒdào; combined ticket with
toboggan ¥80) – called a ‘ropeway’ on the
signs here – and a toboggan ride (滑道 huá
dào; one-way ¥60), making this ideal for
those who can’t manage too many steps or
who have kids in tow.
4 Sleeping & Eating
Mùtiányù has a branch of Subway (just
down from the car park). There are also
lots of fruit and snacks stalls. Up by the
main entrance is Yì Sōng Lóu Restaurant
(翼松楼餐厅; Yì Sōng Lóu Cāntīng; mains ¥20-60;
h 8.30am-5pm), which does OK Chinese food.
Brickyard Eco Retreat GUESTHOUSE $$$
(瓦厂; Wǎ Chǎng; % 010 6162 6506; www.brickyardat-
mutianyu.com; Běigōu Village, Huáiróu District;怀柔区
渤海镇北沟村; r ¥1480-1980, ste ¥3990; aW )
S A 1960s glazed-tile factory renovated into
a beautiful guesthouse, sporting five lovingly
restored rooms, each with views of the Great
Wall. Rates include breakfast, use of a spa, and
shuttle services to the Wall and surrounding
villages. Brickyard is in Běigōu village (北沟村;
Běigōu Cūn), about 2km from the Mùtiányù
Great Wall. Reservations essential.
88 Getting to Mùtiányù
Bus From Dongzhimen Wai Bus Stand (东直门
外汽车站; Dōngzhíménwài Qìchēzhàn), bus 867
makes a special detour to Mùtiányù twice every
morning (¥16, 2½ hours, 7am and 8.30am, 15
March to 15 November only) and returns from
Mùtiányù twice each afternoon (2pm and 4pm).
Otherwise, go via Huáiróu: from Dongzhimen
Transport Hub (东直门枢纽站; Dōngzhímén
Shūniǔzhàn) take bus 916快 (the character is
‘kuài’, and means ‘fast’) to Huáiróu (¥12, one
hour, 6.30am to 7.30pm). Get off at Mingzhu
Guangchang (明珠广场) bus stop, then take the
first right to find a bunch of minivans waiting to
take passengers to Mùtiányù (per person ¥10
to ¥20, 30 minutes). After around 1pm, you’ll
probably have to charter your own van (¥60
one-way).
Return minivans start drying up around 6pm.
The last 916快 back to Běijīng leaves Huáiróu at
around 7pm. If you miss that, catch a taxi from
Huáiróu to Shunyi subway station (顺义地铁站;
Shùnyì Dìtiě Zhàn; about ¥100) on Line 15, or all
the way back to Dōngzhímén (¥220).
1 19
TAXIS AND CAR HIRE
Miles Meng (% 137 1786 1403; www.
beijingtourvan.blog.sohu.com)
Mr Sun (孙先生; Sūn Xiānsheng; % 136
5109 3753) Only speaks Chinese but is
very reliable and can find other drivers if
he’s busy. Does round trips to the Great
Wall from ¥600.
Hertz (赫兹; Hèzī; % 800 988 1336, 010
Th e G re at Wa ll G
5739 2000; www.hertzchina.com; h 8am-
8am Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun)
Taxi Around ¥600 to ¥700 return day trip from
Běijīng.
Warning! If taking bus 916快 to Huáiróu, ignore
the tout who almost always gets on this bus
S lǓeBeĚpI K
at Nanhua Shichang bus stop and tries to lure
foreign tourists onto an expensive minibus tour
to the Great Wall. He sometimes wears a bus-
ing
driver shirt to aid the scam.
Ǒ U & E ating
Gǔběikǒu 古北口
The historic, far-flung village of Gǔběikǒu
was once an important, heavily guarded
gateway into Běijīng from northeast China.
The village, split into two sections by a ridge,
with the Great Wall running along it and a
small tunnel running through it, contains
plenty of old courtyard homes and half a
dozen small temples (¥20 combined tick-
et). Various stretches of the Wall meet in and
around the village in a kind of Great Wall
crossroads that gives you lots of hiking op-
tions. One short stony stretch of wall dates
from the far-off Northern Qi dynasty (AD
550–77). The other stretches are Ming.
There are two main sections of Wall: the
Coiled Dragon (蟠龙; Pán Lóng; admission
¥25), which runs along the ridge that cuts
Gǔběikǒu Village in two and which even-
tually leads to Jīnshānlǐng Great Wall, and
Crouching Tiger Mountain (卧虎山; Wò Hǔ
Shān), on the other side of the Cháo Hé Riv-
er (walk through the tunnel, cross the river
bridge, and follow the steps you’ll soon see
on your right). Both make for fabulous hik-
ing, although Crouching Tiger is extraordi-
narily steep.
4 Sleeping & Eating
All the tourist accommodation is in the
recently redeveloped southern half of the
village (before the Gǔběikǒu Tunnel), now
1 20
called the Folk Customs Village (it’s less
twee than it sounds). Get off the bus imme-
diately before the tunnel (if you miss the
stop, you can walk back through the tunnel
from the next stop), and walk through the
archway on the right. There are dozens of
nóngjiāyuàn (农家院; village guesthouses),
so there’s no need to book anything (unless
you want to stay at Great Wall Box House).
Just turn up and look for one you like. They
all have English signage, but very little Eng-
Th e G re at Wa ll JGIeÀtting
bus 密25 to Gǔběikǒu (¥9, 70 minutes). The
last 密25 back to Mìyún leaves at 5.30pm. The
last 980 back to Dongzhimen is at 7pm.
Taxi Around ¥1000 to ¥1200 return day trip
from Běijīng.
Jiànkòu 箭扣
For stupefying hikes along perhaps Běijīng’s
most incomparable section of ‘wild wall’,
head to the rear section of the Jiànkòu

lish is spoken. Expect to pay ¥80/120/150 for
a single/double/triple occupancy in a simple
room with bathroom. All guesthouses also
do food (mains ¥20 to ¥40).
oGreat Wall Box House GUESTHOUSE $$
(团园客栈; Tuán Yuán Kèzhàn; % 010 8105
1123; http://en.greatwallbox.com; No 18 Dong-
guan, Gǔběikǒu Village; 古北口镇东关甲18
号; weekday/weekend, incl dinner dm ¥180/200,
N K Ò U to G ǔběikǒu
Great Wall (后箭扣长城; Hòu Jiànkòu Cháng-
chéng), accessible from Xīzhàzi village (西
栅子村; Xīzhàzi Cūn), via the town of Huáiróu.
Tantalising panoramic views of the Great
Wall spread out in either direction from
here, as the crumbling brickwork meanders
dramatically along a mountain ridge; the
setting is truly sublime. This section of the
wall is completely unrestored, so it is both

dangerous and, strictly speaking, illegal to

s ¥200/220, tw ¥500/550) Run by a young,
friendly, English-speaking Chinese cou-
ple called Joe and Sophie, this wonderful
place is housed in a 100-year-old courtyard
building that was an abandoned chessboard
factory before being lovingly renovated by
Joe. Rooms surround a long, well-tended
garden-courtyard, and are large (the dorm
is enormous), bright and spotlessly clean.
Incredibly, a small, overgrown section of
the Great Wall runs along one side of the
property.
88 Getting to Gǔběikǒu
Bus Take bus 980快 from Dongzhimen
Transport Hub (东直门枢纽站; Dōngzhímén
Shūniǔzhàn) to its terminus at Mìyún Bus
Station (密云汽车站; Mìyún Qìchēzhàn; ¥15,
90 minutes, 6am to 7pm). The 快 (kuài) means
fast. Come out of the bus station, cross the
road and turn right to find the bus stop for bus
密25. The 密 (Mì) sands for Mìyún. Then take
hike along it. Make sure you wear footwear
with very good grip, and never attempt to
traverse this section in the rain.
Xīzhàzi village is actually a collection of
five hamlets (队; duì) strung out along a
valley, to the left of which is a forested ridge,
along the top of which runs the Great Wall.
You can access the Wall from a number of
points along this valley. If you’re aiming to
hike all the way to Mùtiányù Great Wall, turn
left when you hit the Wall. The Wall here
has various features that have been given
names according to their appearance. They
include the following: Ox Horn (牛角边;
Niú Jiǎo Biān; 90-minute walk to Mùtiányù),
which performs a great sweeping, 180-degree
U-turn; Sharp North Tower (正北楼; Zheng
Bei Lou; 3½ hours to Mùtiányù), which is the
highest tower you can view to your left when
standing in hamlet No 5; Arrow Nock (剪扣;

CAMPING AT THE GREAT WALL

Strictly speaking, camping on the Great Wall is not allowed. However, many people do it;
some of the watchtowers make excellent bases for pitching tents or just laying down a
sleeping bag. Remember: don’t light fires and don’t leave anything behind. You’ll find fun
places to camp at Zhuàngdàokǒu, Jiànkòu and Gǔběikǒu.
There are plenty of places to buy camping equipment in Běijīng, but one of the best in
terms of quality and choice is Sanfo (三夫户外; Sānfū Hùwài; % 010 6201 1333; www.sanfo.
com; 3-4 Madian Nancun; 北三环中路马甸南村4之3－4号; h 9am-9pm). There are branches
across the city, but this location stands out because it has three outlets side by side, as
well as a few smaller cheaper camping shops next door. Turn right out of Exit D of Jiande-
men subway station (Line 10) and walk south for about 800m, then cross under the 3rd
Ring Rd and the camping shops will be on your right.

Jiànkòu; six hours), a low pass in the ridge;
and Upward Flying Eagle (鹰飞到仰; Yīng-
fēi Dàoyǎng; nine hours), consisting of three
beacon towers, two of which (the wings)
stand on the highest point of the mountain
above the lower middle one (the eagle’s head).
The H25 bus terminates at the end of
the valley road, at Hamlet No 5 (五队; Wǔ
Duì). From here you can access pathways to
Upward Flying Eagle (beyond the village)
and Arrow Nock (back towards hamlet No
4). Before the bus gets that far, though, it
passes through a decorative archway at the
entrance to the valley. Here you’ll have to get
out to buy an entrance ticket (¥25) to the
scenic area. Hamlet No 1 (一队; Yī Duì) is
just through this archway, to your left. You
can walk from here to the Ox Horn in about
90 minutes.
4 Sleeping & Eating
Yáng Èr GUESTHOUSE $
(杨二; % 010 6161 1794, 136 9307 0117; Xīzhàzi Vil-
lage No 1; 西栅子村一队; r ¥100; a W ) The first
nóngjiāyuàn (农家院; farmers-style court-
yard) you come to as you enter Hamlet No
1 of Xīzhàzi village. Rooms are set around
a vegetable-patch courtyard, and are simple,
but have private bathrooms. Food menu
(mains ¥25 to ¥50) includes some photos.
No English.
Zhào Shì Shān Jū GUESTHOUSE $
(赵氏山居; % 010 6161 1762, 135 2054 9638;
www.jkwall.com (Chinese only); r ¥100-220; a W )
The last property in the valley (in Hamlet No
5 of Xīzhàzi village), this place is a favourite
for Chinese hikers (not much English is spo-
ken here). Has a large shaded terrace dining
area with fine Great Wall views. Rooms are
neat and clean and sleep two to four peo-
ple. Most have attached bathrooms. Keep
walking along the main road beyond where
the bus terminates, and you’ll see it up to
your right. Food menu (mains ¥20 to ¥40)
has photos.
88 Getting to Jiànkòu
Bus Take bus 916快 from the Dongzhimen
Transport Hub (东直门枢纽站; Dōngzhímén
Shūniǔzhàn) to its teminus at Huáiróu Bus
Station (怀柔汽车站; Huáiróu Qìchēzhàn; ¥12,
90 minutes, 6.30am to 7.30pm). Turn left out
of the station, right at the crossroads and take
bus 862 from the first bus stop to Yújiāyuán
(于家园; ¥2; five stops), then take the H25 to
Xīzhàzi (西栅子; ¥8, 70 minutes). Note, the H25
only runs twice a day; at 11.30am and 4.30pm.
1 21
The return H25 bus leaves Xīzhàzi at 6.30am
and 1.15pm, so you can’t do this in a day trip on
public transport alone.
Taxi Around ¥700 to ¥900 return day trip from
Běijīng. From Huáiróu to Xīzhàzi Village, expect
to pay at least ¥120 one-way.
Zhuàngdàokǒu 撞道口
The small village of Zhuàngdàokǒu (撞道
口) has access to a rarely visited, unrestored
Th e G re at Wa ll SZlHeUeÀpN
section of ‘wild wall’. It’s also possible to
hike over to Huánghuā Chéng Great Wall
(黄花城) on a restored section from here,
although few people do this – surprising,
considering how straightforward it is.
The bus should drop you off at the far
end of Zhuàngdàokǒu village, where the
road crosses a small stream. Pick up some
water and snacks at the small shop near
here, then turn right and follow the lane
along the stream and up behind the hous-
ing
GDÀ
es until it meets a rocky pathway that leads
up the Wall. Once at the Wall (20 minutes),
&OEKating
turn right for the one-hour walk to Huán-
ǑU
ghuā Chéng, or left to commence a tough,
two-hour hike along a crumbling stretch of
shrub-covered Wall towards Shuǐ Cháng-
chéng (水长城).
4 Sleeping & Eating
Zǎoxiāng Yard GUESTHOUSE $
(枣香庭院; Zǎoxiāng Tíngyuàn; % 135 2208
3605; r ¥80-150) This modest guesthouse is
housed in a 70-year-old courtyard building,
which has some traditional features such as
wooden window frames and paper window
panes, as well as more recent add-ons such
as a shower room and a dining area (you
can also eat in the courtyard; English menu;
mains ¥20 to ¥50). One room has a private
bathroom. It’s on your right on the main
road, just before where the bus drops you
off. There are three other guesthouses on
the pathway leading up to the Great Wall.
88 Getting to Zhuàngdàokǒu
Bus From Dongzhimen Transport Hub (东直
门枢纽站; Dōngzhímén Shūniǔzhàn) take bus
916快 to Huáiróu (¥11, one hour, 6.30am to
7.30pm). Get off at Nanhuayuan Sanqu (南花园
三区) bus stop, then walk straight ahead about
200m (crossing one road), until you get to the
next bus stop, which is called Nanhuayuan Siqu
(南花园四区). The H21 bus from here to Shuǐ
Chángchéng (水长城) stops at Zhuàngdàokǒu
(¥8, one hour, every 30 minutes until 6.30pm).
1 22
The last 916快 bus from Huáiróu back to
Běijīng leaves Huáiróu at around 7pm.
Taxi Around ¥700 to ¥800 return day trip from
Běijīng.
Jīnshānlǐng 金山岭
The Jīnshānlǐng (金山岭长城; Jīnshānlǐng
Chángchéng; % 0314 883 0222; summer/winter
¥65/55) section of the Great Wall is a com-
pletely restored stretch, but it’s so far from
Th e G re at Wa ll EJating
in no doubt that this is remote territory. This
is the finish point of an adventurous 6½-hour
hike from Gǔběikǒu.
Hiking (in either direction) on the re-
stored section of the Wall here is straightfor-
ward. There’s an east gate and a west gate
(about 2km apart), which means you can do
a round trip (90 minutes) without backtrack-
ing; from the east gate, turn right at the Wall
to find the west gate, then right again once
back down on the road. If you need it, there’s

Běijīng that it sees far fewer tourists than
other fully restored sections. It contains some
unusual features such as barrier walls (walls
within the Wall), and each watchtower comes
with an inscription, in English, detailing the
historic significance of that part of the Wall.
The landscape here can be drier and starker
than at Jiànkǒu or even nearby Gǔběikǒu, but
it’s arguably more powerful, and it leaves you
ĪNSHĀNLǏNG
a cable car (缆车, lǎn chē; one way/return
trip ¥30/50) by the west gate ticket office.
5 Eating
Beside the east gate entrance (东门; Dōng-
mén), is a hotel lobby–like cafe (coffee ¥30,
beer ¥12, mains ¥20-60) with an English menu
and friendly staff who do their best with lim-
ited English.

TOP GREAT WALL HIKES

Jiànkòu’s Ox Horn to Mùtiányù

Two hours (plus one hour climb to the Wall) Unrivalled for pure wild-wall scenery, the
Wall at Jiànkòu is very tough to negotiate. This short stretch, which passes through the
180-degree U-turn known as the Ox Horn, is equally hairy, but it soon links up with an eas-
ier, restored section at Mùtiányù. Access the Wall from Hamlet No 1 in Xīzhàzi Village (西栅
子村一队; Xīzhàzi Cūn Yīduì; see p121). It takes an hour to reach the Wall from the village;
from the sign that says ‘this section of the Great Wall is not open to the public’, follow a
narrow dirt path uphill and through a lovely pine forest. When you reach a small clearing, go
straight on (and down slightly), rather than up to the right. Later, when you hit the Wall, turn
left. You’ll climb up to and round the Ox Horn before descending (it’s very slippery here) all
the way to Mùtiányù where cable cars, toboggan rides and transport back to Běijīng await.

Zhuàngdàokǒu to Huánghuā Chéng

One hour (plus 20-minute climb to the Wall) A short hop rather than a hike, and on a
mostly restored part of the Wall, but this comes with stunning views by a reservoir once
you reach the summit of your climb. Access the Wall from Zhuàngdàokǒu Village. When you
reach the Wall, turn right and keep going until you eventually descend to the main road by
the reservoir. You can pick up buses, such as the H14, to Huáiróu from here (until 6pm).

Zhuàngdàokǒu to Shuǐ Chángchéng to Huánghuā Chéng

Two hours (plus 20-minute climb to the Wall) Climb up to the Wall from Zhuàngdàokǒu
Village and turn left at the Wall to be rewarded with this dangerous but fabulous stretch of
crumbling bastion. The Wall eventually splits at a corner tower; turn left. Then, soon after,
you’ll reach another tower from where you can see the reservoir far below you. Here the Wall
crumbles down the mountain and is impassable. Instead of risking your life, take the path
that leads down to your left, just before the tower. This path eventually links up with the Wall
again, but you may as well follow it all the way down to the road from here, where you’ll be
able to catch the H21 bus back to Huáiróu from the lower one of the two large car parks.

The Coiled Dragon Loop

2½ hours This scenic but manageable hike starts and finishes in the town of Gǔběikǒu and
follows a curling stretch of the Wall known as the Coiled Dragon. From the Folk Customs Vil-

88 Getting to Jīnshānlǐng
Bus A direct bus takes you from Wangjing West
subway station (Line 13) to a point about 30
minutes’ walk from the Jīnshānlǐng east-gate
ticket office. Come out of Exit C of the subway
station and look over your right shoulder to see
the red sign for the ‘Tourist Bus to Jinshanling
Great Wall’ (金山岭长城旅游班车; Jīnshānlǐng
Chángchéng lǚyóu bānchē), from where there
are half-hourly buses to Jīnshānlǐng (¥32, 90
minutes, 7.30am-4pm). From the bus drop-off
point (a service station on a highway), walk
123
Bādálǐng 八达岭
The mere mention of its name sends a
shudder down the spine of hardcore Wall
walkers, but Bādálǐng (八达岭长城; Bādálǐng
Chángchéng; adult/student ¥45/25; h 6am-7pm
summer, 7am-6pm winter) is the easiest part of
the Wall to get to (you can even get here by
train!) and as such, if you are really pushed
for time, this may be your only option. You’ll
have to put up with huge crowds of tourists,

back under the highway and keep going for
about 2km to the east-gate ticket office. Note,
when you return (turn right out of the east gate
area), the bus will pick up passengers from the
same side of the highway it dropped you off
at; not from the side which has a police station
beside it. Last bus back leaves the service
station at 4.20pm.
Taxi Around ¥1000 to ¥1200 return day trip
from Běijīng.
Th e G re at Wa ll GBeĀtting
a lot of souvenir hawkers and a Wall that
was completely renovated in the 1980s and
so lacks a true sense of historical authentic-
ity. The Bādálǐng Wall is highly photogenic,
however, and has good tourist facilities (res-
taurants, disabled access, cable cars etc).
There is a cable car (缆车; lǎn chē; one-
way/return ¥80/100) from the bottom of the
west car park, and a toboggan ride (¥30;

DÁLǏNG
to J īnshānlǐng
lage (the southern half of Gǔběikǒu) walk up to the newly reconstructed Gǔběikǒu Gate
(古北口关; Gǔběikǒu Guǎn), but turn right up a dirt track just before the gateway. You
should start seeing yellow-painted blobs left over from a marathon that was run here; follow
them. The first section of Wall you reach is a very rare stony stretch of Northern Qi Dy-
nasty Wall (1500 years old!). It soon joins up with the Ming-dynasty bricked version, which
you then continue to walk along (although at one stage, you need to follow yellow arrows
down off the Wall to the left, before rejoining it later). Around 90 minutes after you set off,
you should reach a big sweeping right-hand bend in the Wall (the coil), with three towers
on top. The first and third of these towers are quite well preserved, with walls, windows and
part of a roof (great for camping in). At the third tower (called Jiangjun Tower), turn left,
skirting right around it, then walk down the steps before turning right at a point marked
with a yellow ‘X’ (the marathon went straight on here). Follow this pathway all the way back
to Gǔběikǒu (30 minutes), turning right when you reach the road.

Gǔběikǒu to Jīnshānlǐng
6½ hours This day-long adventure takes in some ancient stone Wall, some crumbling unre-
stored brick Wall and some picture-perfect, recently renovated Wall, as well as a 90-minute
detour through the countryside. Bring plenty of water and enough food for lunch.
Follow the first part of our Coiled Dragon Loop hike, but instead of leaving the Wall just
after Jiangjun Tower, continue along the Wall for another hour until you reach the impres-
sive 24-window Tower (there are only 15 windows left). Here, follow the yellow arrows off
the Wall to avoid a military zone up ahead and walk down through the fields for about 25
minutes. Take the first right, at another yellow arrow, beside a vegetable plot, and climb the
path back towards the Wall. After about half an hour you’ll pass Qing Yun Farmhouse,
where you may be able to buy food and drinks (but don’t bank on it). It’s a 25-minute climb
up to the Wall from here (at the fork, the left path is easier). At the Wall, walk through the
cute doorway to get up around the other side of the tower, then continue along the Wall
to the restored section at Jīnshānlǐng. You’ll have to buy a Jīnshānlǐng Wall entrance ticket
(¥65) off a lady at Xiliang Zhuandao Tower from where it’s about 30 minutes to Little
Jīnshān Tower (for the path or cable car down to the west gate), or about 90 minutes
to East Tower with Five Holes (for the path down to the east gate, from where it’s a
30-minute walk to the bus back to Běijīng).
1 24
called a ‘sliding car’ on the signs here), which
descends to the east car park. There is also
disabled access. ATMs can be found in the
west car park.
5 Eating
There are dozens of restaurants on the main
drags leading up to the entrance to the Wall.
Most are fast-food outlets or snack stalls.
Just up from the west car park, between a
KFC and a Subway, try Yong He King (永
Th e G re at Wa ll EBating
和大王; Yǒnghé Dàwáng; mains ¥15-30; h 10am-
9pm), for the Chinese version of fast food:
rice meals, dumplings and noodles.
88 Getting to Bādálǐng
Bus The 877 (¥12, one hour, 6am to 5pm)
leaves for Bādálǐng from the northern side of
the Déshèngmén gateway (德胜门), about
500m east of Jishuitan subway station. It goes
ĀDÁLǏNG
to the east car park at Bādálǐng. From there,
walk uphill a little, turn left through a covered
souvenir-shop strip, then left again.
Taxi Expect to pay around ¥600 to ¥700 for a
round trip.
Train Getting here by train is the cheapest and
most enjoyable option. Bādálǐng train station
is a 1km walk downhill from the west car park;
come out of the train station and turn left.
Morning trains (¥6, 70 to 80 minutes) leave
from Běijīng North Train Station (北京北站;
Běijīng Běizhàn), which is connected to Xizhi-
men subway station at the following times from
Tuesday to Thursday: 6.12am, 8.34am, 10.57am
and 12.42pm; and at the following times from
Friday to Monday: 6.12am, 7.58am, 9.02am,
10.57am and 1.14pm and 1.35pm. Afternoon
trains return at 1.40pm, 3.08pm, 5.30pm,
7.34pm and 9.33pm (Tuesday to Thursday);
and at 1.40pm, 3.52pm, 4.14pm, 5.30pm,
8.06pm and 9.31pm (Friday to Monday).
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use,
access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair
to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other
words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass
email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions
on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with
our content.’
 PD
F
Uttar Pradesh
& the Taj Mahal
(PDF Chapter)
Edition 15th Edition, Oct 2013
Pages 59 COVERAGE INCLUDES:
Page Range 349–407 • Agra & around • Gorakhpur
Useful Links • Mathura • Kushinagar
• Vrindavan • Sunauli
Want more guides?
Head to our shop • Lucknow
• Ayodhya
Trouble with your PDF?
• Allahabad
Trouble shoot here
• Chitrakut
Need more help? • Jhansi
Head to our FAQs
• Varanasi
Stay in touch • Sarnath
Contact us here

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair
to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it
to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Uttar Pradesh
& the Taj Mahal
Agra..............................351
Mathura...................... 372
Vrindavan.................... 374
Lucknow...................... 375
Ayodhya.......................381
Allahabad.................... 382
Chitrakut..................... 387
Jhansi..........................388
Varanasi......................388
Sarnath.......................402
Gorakhpur...................404
Kushinagar..................404
Sunauli........................406
Best Places
to Eat
¨¨Pinch of Spice (p365)
¨¨El Chico (p386)
Why Go?
Agra’s Taj Mahal rises from the beaten earth of Uttar
Pradesh (UP) as it does in dreams, but even the wildest im-
aginations leave travellers underprepared for that breath-
stealing moment its gates are traversed and this magnificent
world wonder comes into focus – skipping it would be a bit
like drinking chai without spoonfuls of sugar: absurd.
But it’s the unmistakable spirituality and religious fer-
vour in this enormous state that leaves the longest-lasting
impressions: being slapped by a divine punch of wow along
atmospheric riverside ghats such as Manikarnika and Da-
shashwamedh in India’s holiest city, Varanasi; the contem-
plative aura that emanates from ancient Buddhist stupas in
Kushinagar; and the serenity of waking up before dawn to
watch locals perform puja (offerings or prayers) in sacred
Chitrakut. Along the way, a groundswell of Mughal and
Nawab architectural and gastronomic highpoints – espe-
cially in Lucknow – ensure all-sensory satisfaction in India’s
imperial heartland.
When to Go
Agra
°C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm
40/104 32/800

¨¨Sakhawat (p378)
30/86 24/600
¨¨Esphahan (p364)
20/68 16/400

Best Places
10/50 8/200

to Stay 0/32
J F M A M J J A S O N D
0

¨¨Hotel Ganges View (p397)

Sep–Oct Mon- Nov–Feb Com- Mar–Apr With
¨¨N Homestay (p363)
soon rains are fortable winter evening chills sub-
¨¨Kanchan Villa (p385) mostly over and days and nippy sided and raging
¨¨Ganpati Guesthouse
temperatures nights mean it’s midsummer heat
have cooled ...just cool but over- still at bay, some
(p396)
enough. crowded. say it’s perfect.
3 50
MAIN POINTS¨
OF ENTRY
International con-
nections include
Varanasi–Kathmandu
and Lucknow–Dubai.
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal 
Many travellers come
overland from Nepal,
usually at Sunauli.
Best-connected train
stations are Agra, Luck-
now, Allahabad and
Varanasi.
Fast Facts
¨¨Population: 200 million
¨¨Area: 231,254 sq km
¨¨Capital: Lucknow
¨¨Language: Hindi
¨¨Sleeping prices:
$ below ₹1000, $$ ₹1000
to ₹3000, $$$ above
₹3000
Top Tip
When arriving by train or
bus in Agra or Varanasi, ig-
nore anyone who approach-
es you in the station; head
straight for the prepaid
autorickshaw booth (oppo-
site the main entrance). Do
not let any guide or auto-
rickshaw driver take you to
a shop, whether one of his
choosing or yours. Ever.
Resources
¨¨Uttar Pradesh Tourism
(www.up-tourism.com)
¨¨Lucknow Tribune (www.
thelucknowtribune.org)
¨¨Lonely Planet (www.
lonelyplanet.com/india/
agra)
Food
Mughlai cuisine – rich, meaty and impossibly tasty – is the
order of the day across much of Uttar Pradesh, with the best
restaurants often attached to the top hotels in the big cities.
Lucknow is the undisputed king of UP cuisine. You’ll find
some excellent Mughlai kitchens here as well as great chaat
(snacks) and some simply sumptuous kebabs.
DON’T MISS
There are two things you shouldn’t leave Uttar Pradesh
without doing: seeing the Taj Mahal at sunset and tak-
ing a dawn boat ride along the Ganges in the holy city
of Varanasi.
Top State Festivals
¨¨Magh Mela (h Jan/Feb, Allahabad, p382) A huge annual
religious fair that transforms into the world’s largest human
gathering, the Purna Kumbh Mela, every 12th year (next in
2025).
¨¨Holi (h Feb/Mar, Mathura, p372, and Vrindavan, p374)
This national festival is celebrated with particular fervour
around Mathura and Vrindavan, spiritual home of Krishna.
¨¨Purnima (h Apr/May, Sarnath, p402) Also known as
Vesak, Buddha Jayanti or, informally, Buddha’s birthday,
Purnima actually celebrates the birth, enlightenment and
death of Buddha. Sarnath, just outside Varanasi, takes on a
particularly festive air on this day, when Buddhists from many
countries take part in a procession and a fair is held.
¨¨Janmastami (h Aug/Sep, Mathura, p372) You can barely
move here during Krishna’s birthday, when temples are
swathed in decorations and musical dramas about Krishna
are performed.
¨¨Ram Lila (h Sep/Oct, Varanasi, p388) Every year since the
early 1800s the Ram Lila, a lengthy version of the Ramayana,
has been performed beside Ramnagar Fort in Varanasi. The
epic saga of Rama’s marriage to Sita and his battle against
the demon king Ravana is performed mainly by Brahmin
youths aided by masks, music, dancing and giant papier-
mâché figures.

History
Over 2000 years ago this region was part of
Ashoka’s great Buddhist empire, remnants
of which can be found in the ruins at the
pilgrimage centre of Sarnath near Varanasi.
Muslim raids from the northwest began in
the 11th century, and by the 16th century the
region was part of the Mughal empire, with
its capital in Agra, then Delhi and, for a brief
time, Fatehpur Sikri.
Following the decline of the Mughal em-
pire, Persians stepped in briefly before the
nawabs of Avadh rose to prominence in
the central part of the region. The nawabs
were responsible for turning Lucknow into a
flourishing centre for the arts, but their em-
pire came to a dramatic end when the Brit-
ish East India Company deposed the last na-
wab, triggering the First War of Independ-
ence (Indian Uprising) of 1857. Agra was lat-
er merged with Avadh and the state became
known as United Province. It was renamed
Uttar Pradesh after Independence and has
since been the most dominant state in In-
dian politics, producing half of the country’s
prime ministers, most of them from Alla-
habad. The local population doesn’t seem
to have benefited much from this, though,
as poor governance, a high birth rate, a low
literacy rate and an erratic electricity supply
have held back economic progress in UP in
the past 60 years.
In 2000 the mountainous northwestern
part of the state was carved off to create the
new state of Uttaranchal.
A gra
% 0562 / POP 1.7 MILLION
The magical allure of the Taj Mahal draws
tourists to Agra like moths to a wondrous
flame. And despite the hype, it’s every bit
as good as you’ve heard. But the Taj is not
a stand-alone attraction. The legacy of the
Mughal empire has left a magnificent fort
and a liberal sprinkling of fascinating tombs
and mausoleums; and there’s also fun to be
had in the bustling chowks (marketplaces).
The downside comes in the form of
hordes of rickshaw-wallahs, touts, unofficial
guides and souvenir vendors, whose persist-
ence can be infuriating at times.
Many tourists choose to visit Agra on a
whistle-stop day trip from Delhi. This is a
shame. There is much more of interest here
than can be seen in that time. In fact, you
351
can enjoy several days’ sightseeing with side
trips to the superb ruined city of Fatehpur
Sikri and the Hindu pilgrimage centre of
Mathura.
Agra sits on a large bend in the holy Ya-
muna River. The fort and the Taj, 2km apart,
both overlook the river on different parts of
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal Agra
the bend. The main train and bus stations
are a few kilometres southwest.
The labourers and artisans who toiled
on the Taj set up home immediately south
of the mausoleum, creating the congested
network of alleys known as Taj Ganj, now a
popular area for budget travellers.
History
In 1501 Sultan Sikander Lodi established his
capital here, but the city fell into Mughal
hands in 1526, when Emperor Babur de-
feated the last Lodi sultan at Panipat. Agra
reached the peak of its magnificence be-
tween the mid-16th and mid-17th centuries
 i ghts & Act i v i t i es
S
during the reigns of Akbar, Jehangir and
Shah Jahan. During this period the fort,
the Taj Mahal and other major mausoleums
were built. In 1638 Shah Jahan built a new
city in Delhi, and his son Aurangzeb moved
the capital there 10 years later.
In 1761 Agra fell to the Jats, a warrior class
who looted its monuments, including the Taj
Mahal. The Marathas took over in 1770, but
were replaced by the British in 1803. Follow-
ing the First War of Independence of 1857,
the British shifted the administration of the
province to Allahabad. Deprived of its ad-
ministrative role, Agra developed as a centre
for heavy industry, quickly becoming fa-
mous for its chemicals industry and air pol-
lution, before the Taj and tourism became a
major source of income.
1 Sights & Activities
The entrance fee for Agra’s five main sights
(the Taj, Agra Fort, Fatehpur Sikri, Akbar’s
Tomb and Itimad-ud-Daulah) is made up of
charges from two different bodies, the Ar-
chaeological Survey of India (ASI) and the
Agra Development Association (ADA). Of the
₹750 ticket for the Taj Mahal, ₹500 is a spe-
cial ADA ticket, which gives you small sav-
ings on the other four sights if visited in the
same day. You’ll save ₹50 at Agra Fort and
₹10 each at Fatehpur Sikri, Akbar’s Tomb and
Itimad-ud-Daulah. You can buy this ₹500
ADA ticket at any of the five sights. Just say
you intend to visit the Taj later that day.
3 52
HIMACHAL PRADESH
Uttar GARHWAL
Pradesh Shimla
Yamunotri
Gangotri

& the Taj Chandigarh

Kedarnath
Badrinath
Mahal Paonta Uttarkashi
Joshimath
Highlights 1 Sahib
Mussoorie Nanda Devi
1 Watch in awe as Ambala
Dehra (7816m)
Ut tar Pradesh

the colours of the Dun UTTARANCHAL

majestic Taj Mahal Rishikesh KUMAON
(p354) in Agra dance Haridwar
Baijnath
Pr adesh&&the

by day and night Saharanpur Kausani

1 Kotdwar Ranikhet
2 Take in a dramatic Pith
sunrise amid a HARYANA Corbett
Tiger Almora
hubbub of holiness Gran
Muzaffarnagar Reserve Nainital
on a pre-dawn boat Ramnagar
Bijnar Kathgodam
ride along the Ganges
theTaTa

d Tru

River in Varanasi Banbassa

nk Rd

(p388) Meerut Mahendrenagar

j Mahal

Amroha Rampur
3 Be wowed while
j Mahal

10
Hapur
wandering immense Moradabad
Mughal monuments Ghaziabad Pilibhit
in Fatehpur Sikri DELHI
U ttar

(p368) Bareilly
 i ghts
S

8
4 Explore 2
fascinating
P radesh

Ga
back lanes and nge Shahjahanpur
s
& Act i&v the

ornamented Mughal Aligarh Riv

Nandgaon er UT
architecture on a
Barsana Vrindavan
Heritage Walking Tour Etah
Govardhan
in Lucknow (p377) Mathura
i t i esTaj M aha l H i gh l i ghts

11
Deeg Gokul Mahaban Fatehgarh
5 Escape chaotic
cities at the Tundla
Bharatpur Firozabad
pilgrimage centre of Agra
Kannauj
Kushinagar (p404), Fatehpur Shikodabad
Buddha’s final resting Sikri
Etawah
place
6 Experience RAJASTHAN 2
the spirituality of
3
Varanasi without the Yam
hassle at the more una
chilled-out riverside Gwalior
ghats of Chitrakut Orai Riv
er
(p387)
7 Imagine 100
million Kumbh Mela
devotees on your tail
as you’re rowed out 25
Jhansi Mahoba
to the confluence Orchha
of two holy rivers in
Allahabad (p382)
Chatarpur
Khajuraho
3

26
MADHYA
PRADESH A

Indore
(110km)
 353
0 100 km
CHINA 0 50 miles
Tibet External boundaries shown reflect the requirements of
the Government of India. Some boundaries may not
be those recognised by neighbouring countries.
Lonely Planet always tries to show on maps where
travellers may need to cross a boundary
(and present documentation) irrespective of any dispute.

Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal Agra

G
R
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Pithoragarh A
T
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I M
A
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A
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Ataria A
NEPAL R A
Dhangadhi N G
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Pokhara

 i ghts & Act i v i t i es

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Nepalganj
Rupaidha Bazar KATHMANDU

UTTAR PRADESH
Lumbini Bhairawa
Bahraich Shravasti
Sitapur Sunauli
Balrampur Naugarh Nautanwa
24
Gonda

Ayodhya Gorakhpur Kushinagar

Lucknow
Faizabad
25 28
Gha
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Kanpur Rive
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Ga 29
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Jaunpur Patna
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Allahabad Zamania
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Serai
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27
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Satna

Amarpatan
7
354
All the other sights in Agra are either free
or have ASI tickets only which aren’t affect-
ed by the ADA one-day offer.
Admission to all sights is free for children
under 15. On Fridays, many sites offer a tax-
free discount of ₹10.
Hotels allowing nonguests to use their
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal Agra
pools include Yamuna View (₹400), Howard
Plaza (₹562), Amar (₹500) – with slide! –
and Clarks Shiraz (₹1000).
o Taj Mahal HISTORIC BUILDING
(Indian/foreigner ₹20/750, video ₹25; h dawn-
dusk Sat-Thu) Rabindranath Tagore described
it as ‘a teardrop on the cheek of eternity’,
Rudyard Kipling as ‘the embodiment of all
things pure’, while its creator, Emperor Shah
Jahan, said it made ‘the sun and the moon
shed tears from their eyes’. Every year, tour-
ists numbering more than twice the popula-
tion of Agra pass through its gates to catch a
once-in-a-lifetime glimpse of what is widely
considered the most beautiful building in
 i ghts & Act i v i t i es
S
the world. Few leave disappointed.
The Taj was built by Shah Jahan as a me-
morial for his third wife, Mumtaz Mahal,
who died giving birth to their 14th child in
1631. The death of Mumtaz left the emperor
so heartbroken that his hair is said to have
turned grey virtually overnight. Construc-
tion of the Taj began the following year
and, although the main building is thought
to have been built in eight years, the whole
complex was not completed until 1653. Not
long after it was finished Shah Jahan was
overthrown by his son Aurangzeb and im-
prisoned in Agra Fort where, for the rest of
his days, he could only gaze out at his crea-
BEST TIMES¨
TO SEE THE TAJ
The Taj is arguably at its most atmos-
pheric at sunrise. This is certainly the
most comfortable time to visit, with far
fewer crowds. Sunset is another magi-
cal viewing time. You can also view the
Taj for five nights around full moon.
Entry numbers are limited, though,
and tickets must be bought a day in
advance from the Archaeological
Survey of India office (Map p355;
% 2227263; www.asi.nic.in; 22 The Mall;
Indian/foreigner ₹510/750; h 10am-6pm).
See its website for details. Note, this
office is known as the Taj Mahal Office
by some rickshaw riders.
tion through a window. Following his death
in 1666, Shah Jahan was buried here along-
side Mumtaz.
In total, some 20,000 people from India
and Central Asia worked on the building.
Specialists were brought in from as far away
as Europe to produce the exquisite mar-
ble screens and pietra dura (marble inlay
work) made with thousands of semiprecious
stones.
The Taj was designated a World Heritage
Site in 1983 and looks as immaculate today
as when it was first constructed – though it
underwent a huge restoration project in the
early 20th century.
¨¨Entry & Information
Note: the Taj is closed every Friday to any-
one not attending prayers at the mosque.
The Taj can be accessed through the west,
south and east gates (see Map p362). Tour
groups tend to enter through the east and
west gates. Independent travellers tend to
use the south gate, which is nearest to Taj
Ganj, the main area for budget accommoda-
tion, and generally has shorter queues than
the west gate. The east gate has the short-
est queues of the lot, but this is because the
ticket office is inconveniently located a 1km
walk away at Shilpgram, a dire government-
run tourist centre. There are separate queues
for men and women at all three gates.
Cameras and videos are permitted but
you cannot take photographs inside the
mausoleum itself, and the areas in which
you can take videos are quite limited.
Do not forget to retrieve your free 500ml
bottle of water and shoe covers (included in
Taj ticket price). If you keep your ticket you
get small entry-fee reductions when visiting
Agra Fort, Fatehpur Sikri, Akbar’s Tomb or
the Itimad-ud-Daulah on the same day. You
can also store your luggage for free beside
the ticket offices.
From the south gate, entry to the inner
compound is through a very impressive,
30m red sandstone gateway on the south
side of the forecourt, which is inscribed with
verses from the Quran.
¨¨Inside the Grounds
Once inside, the ornamental gardens are
set out along classical Mughal charbagh
(formal Persian garden) lines – a square
quartered by watercourses, with an orna-
mental marble plinth at its centre. When the
fountains are not flowing, the Taj is beauti-
fully reflected in the water.
 355

Agra e
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A B C D

Agra
æ Top Sights
1 Agra Fort ............................................... B1
2 Mehtab Bagh ......................................... D1
æ Sights
3 Amar Singh Gate ...................................B2
4 Diwan-i-Am............................................ B1
5 Jama Masjid .......................................... B1
6 Jehangir's Palace ..................................B2
7 Khas Mahal............................................B2
8 Kinari Bazaar......................................... B1
9 Moti Masjid ............................................ B1
ÿ Sleeping
10 Amar Yatri Niwas ................................. C4
11 Clarks Shiraz Hotel .............................. C4
12 Hotel Amar ........................................... C4
13 Hotel Yamuna View...............................A3
14 Howard Plaza ........................................D3
15 N Homestay ......................................... C4
16 Tourists Rest House..............................A3
ú Eating
17 Brijwasi.................................................. A4
18 Dasaprakash ......................................... A3
19 Lakshmi Vilas........................................ A4
20 Pinch of Spice ....................................... D4
û Drinking & Nightlife
21 Café Coffee Day ................................... A4
þ Shopping
22 Khadi Gramodyog................................. A3
23 Modern Book Depot ............................. A4
24 Subhash Emporium.............................. A3
ï Information
25 Amit Jaggi Memorial Hospital ..............C4
26 Archaeological Survey of
India Office ......................................... B3
27 District Hospital .................................... A2
28 India Tourism........................................ A3
29 UP Tourism .......................................... B4
Taj Mahal
Go Barefoot

DANIEL MCCROHAN ©
Help the en-
vironment by
entering the
TIMELINE mausoleum
barefoot in-
1631 Emperor Shah Jahan's beloved stead of using
third wife, Mumtaz Mahal, dies in the free dis-
posable shoe
Buhanpur while giving birth to their covers.
14th child. Her body is initially interred
in Buhanpur itself, where Shah Jahan Pishtaqs
is fighting a military campaign, but These huge arched recesses
are set into each side of the
is later moved, in a golden casket, to Taj. They provide depth to the
a small building on the banks of the building while their central,
Yamuna River in Agra. latticed marble screens allow
patterned light to illuminate the
1632 Construction of a permanent inside of the mausoleum.
mausoleum for Mumtaz Mahal begins.
1633 Mumtaz Mahal is interred in her
final resting place, an underground
tomb beneath a marble plinth, on top of
which the Taj Mahal will be built.
1640 The white-marble mausoleum is
completed.
1653 The rest of the Taj Mahal complex
is completed.
1658 Emperor Shah Jahan is Minaret
overthrown by his son Aurangzeb and
imprisoned in Agra Fort.
1666 Shah Jahan dies. His body
is transported along the Yamuna
River and buried underneath the Taj,
alongside the tomb of his wife.
1908 Repeatedly damaged and looted
after the fall of the Mughal empire, the Entrance
Taj receives some long-overdue attention Plinth
as part of a major restoration project
ordered by British viceroy Lord Curzon.
Marble Relief Work
1983 The Taj is awarded Unesco World Flowering plants, thought to be
representations of paradise,
Heritage Site status. are a common theme among
2002 Having been discoloured by the beautifully decorative
panels carved onto the white
pollution in more recent years, the Taj marble.
is spruced up with an ancient recipe
known as multani mitti – a blend of
soil, cereal, milk and lime once used by
Indian women to beautify their skin. Be
Enlightened
Today More than three million tourists
visit the Taj Mahal each year. Thatʼs Bring a small
torch into the
more than twice the current population mausoleum to
of Agra. fully appreciate
the translucen-
DANIEL MCCROHAN ©

cy of the white
marble and
semiprecious
stones.
DANIEL MCCROHAN ©

DANIEL MCCROHAN ©
Filigree Screen
This stunning screen was carved out of a single
piece of marble. It surrounds both cenotaphs,
allowing patterned light to fall onto them through
its intricately carved jali (latticework).

Central Dome
The Taj’s famous central dome, topped by a brass
 nial, represents the vault of heaven, a stark con-
trast to the material world, which is represented
by the square shape of the main structure.

Yamuna River

TH
NOR
Pietra Dura
It’s believed that 35 different precious and semi-
precious stones were used to create the exquisite
pietra dura (marble inlay work) found on the
inside and outside of the mausoleum walls. Again,
oral designs are common.
Calligraphy
Calligraph
The strips of calligraphy
c surrounding each of the
four pishtaqs get
g larger as they get higher, giving
the impression
impressio of uniform size when viewed from
the ground. There's
Th also calligraphy inside the mau-
Cenotaphs soleum, includ
including on Mumtaz Mahal’s cenotaph.
The cenotaphs of
Mumtaz Mahal and
Shah Jahan, decorated
DANIEL MCCROHAN ©

DANIEL MCCROHAN ©

with pietra dura inlay

work, are actually
fake tombs. The real
ones are located in
an underground vault
closed to the public.
358

TAJ MAHAL MYTHS

The Taj is a Hindu Temple

The well-publicised theory that the Taj was in fact a Shiva temple built in the 12th cen-
tury and only later converted into Mumtaz Mahal’s famous mausoleum was developed
by Purushottam Nagesh Oak. In 2000 India’s Supreme Court dismissed his petition to
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal Agra

have the sealed basement rooms of the Taj opened to prove his theory. Oak also claims
that the Kaaba, Stonehenge and the Papacy all have Hindu origins.

The Black Taj Mahal

The story goes that Shah Jahan planned to build a negative image of the Taj Mahal in
black marble on the opposite side of the river as his own mausoleum, and that work
began before he was imprisoned by his son Aurangzeb in Agra Fort. Extensive excava-
tions at Mehtab Bagh have found no trace of any such construction.

Craftsmen Mutilations
Legend has it that on completion of the Taj, Shah Jahan ordered that the hands of the
project’s craftsmen be chopped off, to prevent them from ever building anything as
beautiful again. Some even say he went so far as to have their eyes gouged out. Thank-
fully, no historical evidence supports either story.

Sinking Taj
 i ghts & Act i v i t i es
S

Some experts believe there is evidence to show that the Taj is slowly tilting towards
and sinking into the riverbed due to the changing nature of the soil beside an increas-
ingly dry Yamuna River. The Archaeological Survey of India has dismissed any marginal
change in the elevation of the building as statistically insignificant, adding that it has not
detected any structural damage at its base in the seven decades since its first scientific
study of the Taj was carried out, in 1941.

The Taj Mahal itself stands on a raised
marble platform at the northern end of the
ornamental gardens, with its back to the
Yamuna River. (See also the colour illustra-
tion, p356.) Its raised position means that
the backdrop is only sky – a masterstroke
of design. Purely decorative 40m-high white
minarets grace each corner of the platform.
After more than three centuries they are not
quite perpendicular, but they may have been
designed to lean slightly outwards so that in
the event of an earthquake they would fall
away from the precious Taj. The red sand-
stone mosque (Map p362) to the west is an
important gathering place for Agra’s Mus-
lims. The identical building to the east, the
jawab (Map p362), was built for symmetry.
The central Taj structure is made of
domes surrounding the famous bulbous
central dome.
Directly below the main dome is the
Cenotaph of Mumtaz Mahal, an elaborate
false tomb surrounded by an exquisite per-
forated marble screen inlaid with dozens of
different types of semiprecious stones. Be-
side it, offsetting the symmetry of the Taj,
is the Cenotaph of Shah Jahan, who was
interred here with little ceremony by his
usurping son Aurangzeb in 1666. Light is ad-
mitted into the central chamber by finely cut
marble screens. The real tombs of Mumtaz
Mahal and Shah Jahan are in a locked base-
ment room below the main chamber and
cannot be viewed.
oAgra Fort FORT

semitranslucent white marble, carved with
flowers and inlaid with thousands of semi-
precious stones in beautiful patterns. A per-
fect exercise in symmetry, the four identical
faces of the Taj feature impressive vaulted
arches embellished with pietra dura scroll-
work and quotations from the Quran in a
style of calligraphy using inlaid jasper. The
whole structure is topped off by four small
(Map p355; Indian/foreigner ₹20/300, video ₹25;
h dawn-dusk) With the Taj Mahal overshad-
owing it, one can easily forget that Agra
has one of the finest Mughal forts in India.
Construction of the massive red-sandstone
fort, on the bank of the Yamuna River, was
begun by Emperor Akbar in 1565. Further
additions were made, particularly by his
grandson Shah Jahan, using his favourite

building material – white marble. The fort
was built primarily as a military structure,
but Shah Jahan transformed it into a pal-
ace, and later it became his gilded prison for
eight years after his son Aurangzeb seized
power in 1658.
The ear-shaped fort’s colossal double
walls rise over 20m in height and measure
2.5km in circumference. The Yamuna River
originally flowed along the straight eastern
edge of the fort, and the emperors had their
own bathing ghats here. It contains a maze
of buildings, forming a city within a city, in-
cluding vast underground sections, though
many of the structures were destroyed over
the years by Nadir Shah, the Marathas, the
Jats and finally the British, who used the
fort as a garrison. Even today, much of the
fort is used by the military and so is off-lim-
its to the general public.
The Amar Singh Gate (Map p355) to the
south is the sole entry point to the fort these
days and where you buy your entrance tick-
et. Its dogleg design was meant to confuse
attackers who made it past the first line of
defence – the crocodile-infested moat.
A path leads straight from here up to the
large Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque; Map p355),
which is always closed. To your right, just
before you reach Moti Masjid, is the large
open Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audiences; Map
p355), which was used by Shah Jahan for
domestic government business, and features
a throne room where the emperor listened
to petitioners. In front of it is the small and
rather incongruous grave of John Colvin, a
lieutenant-governor of the northwest prov-
inces who died of an illness in the fort dur-
ing the 1857 First War of Independence.
A tiny staircase just to the left of the Di-
wan-i-Am throne leads up to a large court-
yard. To your left, is the tiny but exquisite
Nagina Masjid (Gem Mosque), built in 1635
by Shah Jahan for the ladies of the court.
Down below was the Ladies’ bazaar, where
the court ladies bought goods.
On the far side of the large courtyard,
along the eastern wall of the fort, is Diwan-i-
Khas (Hall of Private Audiences), which was
reserved for important dignitaries or foreign
representatives. The hall once housed Shah
Jahan’s legendary Peacock Throne, which
was inset with precious stones including
the famous Koh-i-noor diamond. The throne
was taken to Delhi by Aurangzeb, then to
Iran in 1739 by Nadir Shah and dismantled
after his assassination in 1747. Overlooking
3 59
the river and the distant Taj Mahal is Takhti-
i-Jehangir, a huge slab of black rock with an
inscription around the edge. The throne that
stood here was made for Jehangir when he
was Prince Salim.
Off to your right from here (as you face
the river) is Shish Mahal (Mirror Palace),
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal Agra
with walls inlaid with tiny mirrors. At the
time of research it had been closed for some
time due to restoration, although you could
peek through cracks in the doors at the spar-
kling mirrors inside.
Further along the eastern edge of the fort
you’ll find Musamman Burj and Khas Ma-
hal (Map p355), the wonderful white-marble
octagonal tower and palace where Shah Ja-
han was imprisoned for eight years until his
death in 1666, and from where he could gaze
out at the Taj Mahal, the tomb of his wife.
When he died, Shah Jahan’s body was taken
from here by boat to the Taj. The now closed
Mina Masjid, set back slightly from the east-
ern edge, was his private mosque.
 i ghts & Act i v i t i es
S
The large courtyard here is Anguri Bagh,
a garden that has been brought back to
life in recent years. In the courtyard is an
innocuous-looking entrance – now locked –
that leads down a flight of stairs into a two-
storey labyrinth of underground rooms and
passageways where Akbar used to keep his
500-strong harem.
Continuing south, the huge red-sand-
stone Jehangir’s Palace (Map p355) was
probably built by Akbar for his son Jehangir.
It blends Indian and Central Asian archi-
tectural styles, a reminder of the Mughals’
Afghani cultural roots. In front of the palace
is Hauz-i-Jehangir, a huge bowl carved out
TAJ MUSEUM
Within the Taj complex, on the western
side of the gardens, is the small but ex-
cellent Taj Museum (Map p362; admis-
sion ₹5; h 10am-5pm Sat-Thu), housing
a number of original Mughal miniature
paintings, including a pair of 17th-
century ivory portraits of Emperor
Shah Jahan and his beloved wife
Mumtaz Mahal. You’ll also find here
some very well preserved gold and sil-
ver coins dating from the same period,
plus architectural drawings of the Taj
and some nifty celadon plates, said to
split into pieces or change colour if the
food served on them contains poison.
360
of a single block of stone, which was used for
bathing. Walking past this brings you back
to the main path to Amar Singh Gate.
You can walk here from Taj Ganj, or it’s
₹25 in a cycle-rickshaw.
Akbar’s Mausoleum HISTORIC BUILDING
(Indian/foreigner ₹10/110, video ₹25; h dawn-
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal Agra
dusk) This outstanding sandstone and mar-
ble tomb commemorates the greatest of the
Mughal emperors. The huge courtyard is
entered through a stunning gateway. It has
three-storey minarets at each corner and is
built of red sandstone strikingly inlaid with
white-marble geometric patterns.
The mausoleum is at Sikandra, 10km
northwest of Agra Fort. Buses (₹22, 45 min-
utes) heading to Mathura from Bijli Ghar
bus stand go past the mausoleum.
Itimad-ud-Daulah HISTORIC BUILDING
(Indian/foreigner ₹10/110, video ₹25; h dawn-
dusk) Nicknamed the Baby Taj, the exquisite
tomb of Mizra Ghiyas Beg should not be

Tours
missed. This Persian nobleman was Mumtaz
Mahal’s grandfather and Emperor Jehangir’s
wazir (chief minister). His daughter Nur Ja-
han, who married Jehangir, built the tomb
between 1622 and 1628 in a style similar to
the tomb she built for Jehangir near Lahore
in Pakistan.
It doesn’t have the same awesome beauty
as the Taj, but it’s arguably more delicate in
appearance thanks to its particularly finely
carved jali (marble lattice screens). This was
the first Mughal structure built completely
from marble, the first to make extensive use
of pietra dura and the first tomb to be built
on the banks of the Yamuna, which until
then had been a sequence of beautiful pleas-
ure gardens.
You can combine a trip here with Chini-
ka-Rauza, Mehtab Bagh and Ram Bagh, all
on the east bank. A cycle-rickshaw covering
all four should cost about ₹250 return from
the Taj, including waiting time. An autorick-
shaw should be ₹350.
Chini-ka-Rauza HISTORIC BUILDING
(h dawn-dusk) This Persian-style riverside
tomb of Afzal Khan, a poet who served as
Shah Jahan’s chief minister, was built be-
tween 1628 and 1639. Rarely visited, it is
hidden away down a shady avenue of trees
on the east bank of the Yamuna. Bright blue
tiles, which once covered the whole mauso-
leum, can still be seen on part of the exterior,
while the interior is painted in floral designs.
oMehtab Bagh PARK
(Map p355; Indian/foreigner ₹5/100, video ₹25;
h dawn-dusk) This park, originally built by
Emperor Babur as the last in a series of 11
parks on the Yamuna’s east bank, long be-
fore the Taj was conceived, fell into disrepair
until it was little more than a huge mound
of sand. To protect the Taj from the erosive
effects of the sand blown across the river,
the park was reconstructed and is now one
the best places from which to view the great
mausoleum. The gardens in the Taj are per-
fectly aligned with the ones here, and the
view of the Taj from the fountain directly in
front of the entrance gate is a special one.
Jama Masjid MOSQUE
(Map p355; Jama Masjid Rd) This fine mosque,
built in the Kinari Bazaar by Shah Jahan’s
daughter in 1648, and once connected to
Agra Fort, features striking marble pattern-
ing on its domes.
T Tours
Amin Tours CULTURAL TOURS
(% 9837411144; www.daytourtajmahal.com) If you
can’t be bothered handling the logistics, look
no further than this recommended agency
for all-inclusive private Agra day trips from
Delhi by car (₹6250) or train (₹6000).
UP Tourism COACH TOURS
(www.up-tourism.com; incl entry fees Indian/for-
eigner ₹400/1700) Agra Cantonment train
station (% 2421204; Agra Cantonment Train Sta-
tion; h 7am-10pm) Taj Rd (% 2226431; www.
up-tourism.com; 64 Taj Rd; h 10am-5pm Mon-Sat)
UP Tourism runs daily coach tours that leave
Agra Cantonment train station at 10.30am,
after picking up passengers arriving from
Delhi on the Taj Express. The tour includes
the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri
with a 1¼-hour stop in each place. Tours
return to the station so that day trippers
can catch the Taj Express back to Delhi at
6.55pm. Contact either of the UP Tourism
offices to book a seat, or just turn up at the
train station tourist office at 9.45am to sign
up for that day.
4 Sleeping
The main place for budget accommodation
is the bustling area of Taj Ganj, immediately
south of the Taj, while there’s a high concen-
tration of midrange hotels further south,
along Fatehabad Rd. Sadar Bazaar, an area
boasting good quality restaurants, offers an-
other option.
 361

TOP TAJ VIEWS

Inside the Taj Grounds

You may have to pay ₹750 for the privilege, but it’s only when you’re inside the grounds
themselves that you can really get up close and personal with the world’s most beautiful
building. Don’t miss inspecting the marble inlay work (pietra dura) inside the pishtaqs

Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal Agra

(large arched recesses) on the four outer walls. And don’t forget to bring a small torch
with you so that you can shine it on similar pietra dura work inside the dark central
chamber of the mausoleum. Note the translucency of both the white marble and the
semi-precious stones inlaid into it.

From Mehtab Bagh

Tourists are no longer allowed to wander freely along the riverbank on the opposite side
of the Yamuna River, but you can still enjoy a view of the back of the Taj from the 16th-
century Mughal park Mehtab Bagh, with the river flowing between you and the mau-
soleum. A path leading down to the river beside the park offers the same view for free,
albeit from a more restricted angle.

Looking Up from the South Sank of the River

This is a great place to be for sunset. Take the path that hugs the outside of the Taj’s
eastern wall and walk all the way down to the small temple beside the river. You should
be able to find boat hands down here willing to row you out onto the water for an even

 l eep i ng
S
more romantic view. Expect to pay around ₹100 per boat. For safety reasons, it’s best
not to wander down here on your own for sunset.

On a Rooftop Cafe in Taj Ganj

Perfect for sunrise shots, there are some wonderful photos to be had from the numer-
ous rooftop cafes in Taj Ganj. We think the cafe on Saniya Palace Hotel is the pick of the
bunch, with its plant-filled design and great position, but many of them are good. And all
offer the bonus of being able to view the Taj with the added comfort of an early-morning
cup of coffee.

From Agra Fort

With a decent zoom lens you can capture some fabulous images of the Taj from Agra
Fort, especially if you’re willing to get up at the crack of dawn to see the sun rising up
from behind it. The best places to picture it from are probably Musamman Burj and
Khas Mahal, the octagonal tower and palace where Shah Jahan was imprisoned for
eight years until his death.

Saniya Palace Hotel HOTEL $

4 Taj Ganj Area
Hotel Sheela HOTEL $
(Map p362; % 2333074; www.hotelsheelaagra.
com; Taj East Gate Rd; d with fan ₹600-800, with
AC ₹1000; a ) If you’re not fussed about look-
ing at the Taj Mahal 24 hours a day, and
don’t mind doing a little legwork for an
autorickshaw, Sheela is a superb budget op-
tion. Rooms are simple (no TVs here, and –
perhaps absurdly – no internet) but are set
around a beautifully landscaped garden
with singing birds, plenty of shade and an
inviting restaurant area (better for atmos-
phere than food). Book ahead.
(Map p362; % 3270199; www.saniyapalace.com;
Chowk Kagziyan, Taj South Gate; d without bathroom
₹200, with bathroom ₹400-600, with AC ₹800-
1000; aiW ) Set back from the main strip
down a tiny alleyway, this place has more
character than its rivals, with marble floors
and Mughal-style framed carpets hung
on the walls. The rooms (apart from the
cramped bathroomless cheapies) are clean
and big enough, although the bathrooms in
the non-air-con rooms are miniscule. The
very pleasant, plant-filled rooftop restaurant
has fabulous Taj views.
362

Taj Ganj e 0
# 0
200 m
0.1 miles
A B C D
Yamuna River

1 1
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal Agra

2ß
# Taj â
# #1
â
Mahal

Agra
D

Fort (2km)

2 2

3â
#

Agra
Fort (2km)
D
Gateway
Sh rde
Ga

West Gate
ah ns

3 Ticket Office 3
jah Rd

East
5
 l eep i ng
S

an

#
Shahjahan Gate
ÿ
#
Park West Taj East G
ate Rd
Gate Axis
# Bank ATM
ì
South Gate þ 12
# D
# ü
# 11 Oberoi Amarvilas (250m);
South Gate Taj Plaza (350m);
Ticket Office East Gate Ticket
4
Office (750m) 4
6 7
ÿ
#
8ú
# # 4
ì ÿ
#
ICICI Union ÿ
# 10
# ATM
ì Bank ATM ú
#

9
Sadar Bazaar (2.5km); ú
#
# Agra Cantonment
£
5 ˜
# 5
(5km)
D Cycle-rickshaw
& Autorickshaw
Stand
A B C D

Hotel Sidhartha HOTEL $ Hotel Kamal HOTEL $

(Map p362; % 2230901; www.hotelsidhartha.com;
Taj West Gate; s/d/tr ₹500/600/700, s/d with AC
₹850/950; aiW ) The 18 very smart dou-
ble rooms are bright and clean and are set
around a small, leafy courtyard. Hot water
is available for all the rooms but only the
air-con ones have hot-water showers. It was
weaving through the bureaucracy of open-
ing a rooftop restaurant when we came
though, but most of the Taj is obscured by
neighboring buildings.
(Map p362; % 2330126; hotelkamal@hotmail.com;
Taj South Gate; d ₹600-850, with AC ₹1500-1750;
aW ) The smartest hotel in Taj Ganj proper,
Kamal has very clean, comfortable rooms
with nice touches such as framed photos of
the Taj on the walls and rugs on the tiled
floors (five are newly renovated with wel-
coming woodwork and extra space). There’s
a cozy, bamboo-enclosed ground-floor
restaurant and a perhaps slightly under-
utilised rooftop restaurant with a slightly
obscured Taj view.

Taj Ganj
æ Sights
1 Jawab ..................................................C1
2 Mosque ................................................B1
3 Taj Museum........................................ B2
ÿ Sleeping
4 Hotel Kamal ........................................ C4
5 Hotel Sheela ....................................... D3
6 Hotel Sidhartha .................................. B4
7 Saniya Palace Hotel ........................... C4
ú Eating
8 Joney's Place...................................... B4
Saniya Palace Hotel .................... (see 7)
9 Shankar Ji Restaurant ....................... B5
10 Yash Cafe ........................................... C4
û Drinking & Nightlife
11 Café Coffee Day ................................. C4
þ Shopping
12 Fabindia.............................................. C4
Taj Plaza HOTEL $$
(% 2232515; www.hoteltajplaza.com; Taj East Gate
Rd; d ₹1500, with AC ₹2200, Taj-facing ₹2800;
aiW ) This former good-quality budget ho-
tel has been stretched into a midrange price
bracket in recent years. You won’t be disap-
pointed if you stay here – rooms are clean
and have TV, and six eye the Taj – and there’s
a pleasant rooftop with decent Taj and sun-
set views. And it’s a whole lot closer to the
Taj than most hotels in the same price range.
Oberoi Amarvilas HOTEL $$$
(% 2231515; www.oberoihotels.com; Taj East
Gate Rd; d with/without balcony ₹56,210/48,901;
a i W s ) Following Oberoi’s iron-clad MO
of Maharaja-level service, exquisite dining
and properties that pack some serious wow,
Agra’s best hotel by far oozes style and lux-
ury. Elegant interior design is suffused with
Mughal themes, a composition carried over
into the exterior fountain courtyard and
swimming pool, both of which are set in a
delightful water garden. All rooms (and even
some bathtubs) have wonderful Taj views.
4 Fatahabad Road Area
oN Homestay B&B $$
(Map p355; % 9690107860; www.nhomestay.com;
15 Ajanta Colony, Vibhav Nagar; s/d incl breakfast
₹1200/1500; aiW ) Naghma, the family
matriarch at this wonderful homestay, and
her son, Shiron, are both a riot and their
beautiful home, tucked away in a residen-
36 3
tial neighborhood 15 minutes’ walk from
the Taj’s Western Gate, is nothing short of
a fabulous place to stay. The three-storey
house features marble floors throughout;
and some of the six large and authentically
appointed rooms have pleasant balconies
(first-come, first-served). Naghma will even
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal Agra
cook you dinner. You’ll rarely break through
the cultural surface with such ease.
Amar Yatri Niwas HOTEL $$
(Map p355; % 2233030; www.amaryatriniwas.com;
Fatahabad Rd; s/d from ₹1800/2137; a i W )
Sandwiched between a Costa Coffee and a
Pizza Hut (but don’t let that put you off),
this place has had a recent makeover. The
standard rooms are now smart, clean and
come with modern furnishings and bright
bathrooms and the renovated 4th floor is
now borderline boutique. Be warned, wi-fi
is chargeable at the ludicrous rate of ₹100
per hour!
Howard Plaza
 l eep i ng
S
HOTEL $$$
(Map p355; % 4048600; www.howardplaza
agra.com; Fatahabad Rd; s/d incl breakfast from
₹6745/7869; aiWs ) Standard (formerly
deluxe) rooms in this very welcoming ho-
tel are decked out in elegant dark-wood
furniture and stylish decorative tiling. New
deluxe rooms boast soothing aqua color
schemes – the results of ongoing renova-
tions (there’s a new coffee shop coming
down the pike as well). There’s an unusual
splash-shaped pool out the back, a small but
well-equipped gym, and a very pleasant spa
offering a whole range of ayurvedic treat-
ments. The breezy open-air rooftop restau-
rant doubles as an atmospheric bar at night,
one of the few. Wi-fi–enabled throughout.
Hotel Amar HOTEL $$$
(Map p355; % 2331884; www.hotelamar.com; Fa-
tahabad Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹3859/4313;
aiWs ) A little worn, wi-fi–enabled
rooms come with big TVs and clean bath-
rooms as well as marble inlay entrance halls
to drive home a paltable sense of place. The
great pool area, complete with a lush green
lawn and a 3.5m-tall water slide, is gravy.
4 Sadar Bazaar Area
Tourists Rest House HOTEL $
(Map p355; % 2463961; www.dontworrychicken
curry.com; Kutchery Rd; s/d ₹350/450, with AC
from ₹650/850; aiW ) Folks seem to either
love it or hate it, but if you aren’t dead set
on sleeping under the nose of the Taj, this
36 4
far more centrally located travellers’ hub
offers better bang for the buck than most
Agra spots. Rooms of varying sizes and
conditions (you’ll be happier if you take a
look before committing) all come with free
wi-fi, TV, hot water and large windows and
are set around a peaceful plant-filled, palm-
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal Agra
shaded courtyard restaurant (the real coup
here). Brand-new 3rd-floor rooms step it up
with four-poster beds and expansion plans
include a rooftop restaurant. The bend-
over-backwards owners speak English and
French and couldn’t be more helpful, right
down to occasionally carting you off some-
where in their hotel rickshaw. Phone ahead
for a free pick-up; otherwise, it’s ₹30 in a
cycle-rickshaw from the train station. Damn
fine masala chai, too.
Clarks Shiraz Hotel HOTEL $$$
(Map p355; % 2226121; www.hotelclarksshiraz.
com; 54 Taj Rd; s/d from ₹7307/7869; aiWs )
One of Agra’s original five-star hotels has
 at i ng
E
seen some recent renovation. The standard
doubles are still nothing special, but marble-
floored deluxe versions are excellent and all
bathrooms are retiled and spotless. There
are two very good restaurants, two bars
(three in season), a gym, a shaded garden
pool area and ayurvedic massages. Some
rooms have distant Taj views.
Hotel Yamuna View HOTEL $$$
(Map p355; % 2462990; www.hotelyamunaview
agra.com; 6B The Mall; s/d from ₹5500/6000;
a i W s ) A veteren Marriott manager has
swooped in and taken over this good-value
spot, where a newly renovated pool in the
garden, a sleek new cocktail bar, a plush
Chinese restaurant and spacious rooms with
gleaming bathrooms make this friendly ho-
tel in a quiet part of Sadar Bazaar worth the
splurge. It also has a 24-hour cafe. Free wi-fi
is in the lobby only.
5 Eating
Dalmoth is Agra’s famous version of nam-
kin (spicy nibbles). Peitha is a square sweet
made from pumpkin and glucose that is fla-
voured with rosewater, coconut or saffron.
You can buy it all over Agra. From October
to March look out for gajak, a slightly spicy
sesame-seed biscuit strip.
5 Taj Ganj Area
This lively area directly south of the Taj has
plenty of budget rooftop restaurants, where
menus appear to be carbon copies of one an-
other. None are licensed but most will find
you a beer if you are discreet.
Shankar Ji Restaurant INDIAN $
(Map p362; mains ₹35-100; h 9am-10pm) Those
who are bored of the multicuisine Western-
friendly tourist restaurants in Taj Ganj, and
are after something a bit more down to
earth and authentic, should head round the
corner to the dhabas (snack bars) near the
autorickshaw stand. Shankar Ji is as basic as
any, but it’s all smiles, has an English menu
and dishes out the dhabi experience without
taking a toll on your gut.
Joney’s Place MULTICUISINE $
(Map p362; Kutta Park, Taj Ganj; mains ₹20-80;
h 5am-10.30pm) This pocket-sized institu-
tion whipped up its first creamy lassi in
1978 and continues to please despite cook-
ing its meals in what must be Agra’s small-
est kitchen. The cheese and tomato ‘jay-
felles’ (toasted sandwich), the banana lassi
(money-back guarantee!) and the malai
kofta all come recomended, but it’s more
about crack-of-dawn sustenance than gas-
tronomic super-feats.
Yash Cafe MULTICUISINE $
(Map p362; 3/137 Chowk Kagziyan; mains ₹30-130;
h 7am-10.30pm; W ) This chilled-out 1st-floor
cafe has wicker chairs, sports channels on
TV, DVDs shown in the evening and a good
range of meals, from good-value set break-
fasts to thali (₹70), pizza (₹80 to ₹275) and
Indian-style French toast (with coconut; we
think they made that up). It also offers a
shower and storage space (₹50 for both) to
day visitors.
Saniya Palace Hotel MULTICUISINE $$
(Map p362; mains ₹30-180; h 6am-11pm) With
cute tablecloths, dozens of potted plants and
a bamboo pergola for shade, this is the most
pleasant rooftop restaurant in Taj Ganj.
It also has the best rooftop view of the Taj
bar none. The kitchen isn’t the cleanest in
town, but its usual mix of Western dishes
and Western-friendly Indian dishes usually
go down without complaints.
Esphahan NORTH INDIAN $$$
(% 2231515; Taj East Gate Rd, Oberoi Amarvilas
Hotel; mains ₹775-1250; h dinner 6.30pm & 9pm)
There are only two sittings each evening
at Agra’s finest restaurant (6.30pm and
9.30pm) so booking a table is essential.
Highlights of the small but exquisite menu

include succulent North Indian tandoor
preparations (anything is good), a lamb
raan steeped in chocolate and coffee un-
dertones that packs a wallop of velvety
spice, and some memorable unpolished
rice topped with decadent Kerala shrimp
curry. It’s all set to a romantic background
soundtrack of a live santoor player. Skip the
espresso.
5 Sadar Bazaar
This area offers better-quality restaurants
and makes a nice change from the please-
all, multicuisine offerings in Taj Ganj.
Lakshmi Vilas SOUTH INDIAN $
(Map p355; 50A Taj Rd; meals ₹38-120) This no-
nonsense, plainly decorated, nonsmoking
restaurant is the place in Agra to come for
affordable South Indian fare. The thali meal
(₹120), served noon to 3.30pm and 7pm to
10.30pm, is good though comes across as
relatively expensive.
Brijwasi SWEETS $
(Map p355; www.brijwasisweethouse.com; Sadar
Bazaar; sweets per kg from ₹280, meals ₹70-150;
h 6.30am-11pm) Mouth-watering selection of
traditional Indian sweets, nuts and biscuits
on the ground floor, with a decent-value In-
dian restaurant upstairs. It’s most famous
for its peda milk sweets.
oDasaprakash SOUTH INDIAN $$
(Map p355; www.dasaprakashgroup.com; 1 Gwalior
Rd; meals ₹110-150; h noon-11pm) Fabulously
tasty and religiously clean, Dasaprakash
whips up consistently great South Indian
vegetarian food, including spectacular thalis
(₹125 to ₹300), dosa and a few token Con-
tinental dishes. The ice-cream desserts (₹70
to ₹145) are another speciality. Comfort-
able booth seating and wood-lattice screens
make for intimate dining.
oPinch of Spice NORTH INDIAN $$$
(Map p355; www.pinchofspice.in; 1076/2 Fatahabad
Rd; mains ₹190-350; h noon-11pm) This modern
North Indian superstar at the beginning of
Fatahabad Rd is the best spot outside a five-
star hotel to indulge yourself in rich curries
and succulent tandoori kebabs. The murg
boti masala (chicken tikka swimming in
a rich and spicy country gravy) and the
paneer lababdar (fresh cheese cubes in a
spicy red gravy with sauteed onions) are
outstanding.
36 5
6 Drinking & Nightlife
A night out in Agra tends to revolve around
sitting at a rooftop restaurant with a couple
of bottles of beer. None of the restaurants
in Taj Ganj are licensed, but they can find
alcohol for you if you ask nicely, and don’t
mind if you bring your own drinks, as long
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal Agra
as you’re discreet. You can catch live Indi-
an classical music and ghazals (Urdu love
songs) at restaurants in several of Agra’s top-
end hotels, most of which also have bars, al-
beit of the rather soulless variety.
Café Coffee Day CAFE
(Map p362; www.cafecoffeeday.com; 21/101 Taj
East Gate; items ₹49-114; h 6am-8pm) This AC-
cooled branch of the popular cafe chain is
the closest place to the Taj selling proper
coffee. Another branch is located at Sadar¨
Bazaar (Map p355; www.cafecoffeeday.com; Sadar
Bazaar; items ₹49-114; h 7am-11pm).
Amarvilas Bar BAR
 r i nk i ng & N i ght l i fe
D
(Taj East Gate Rd, Oberoi Amar Vilas Hotel;
h noon-midnight) For a beer (₹375) or cock-
tail (₹525) in sheer opulence, look no fur-
ther than the bar at Agra’s best hotel. A
terrace opens out to views of the Taj, which
nonguests can wander onto, but staff can
be funny about it.
7 Shopping
Agra is well known for its marble items
inlaid with coloured stones, similar to the
pietra dura work on the Taj. Sadar Bazaar,
the old town and the area around the Taj are
full of emporiums. Taj Mahal models are all
made of alabaster rather than marble. Very
cheap ones are made of soapstone, which
scratches easily.
Other popular buys include rugs, leather
and gemstones, though the latter are im-
ported from Rajasthan and are cheaper in
Jaipur.
Be sure to wander narrow streets behind
Jama Masjid where the crazy maze of over-
crowded lanes bursting with colourful mar-
kets is known collectively as Kinari Bazaar
(Map p355; h dawn-late).
Fabindia CLOTHING
(Map p362; www.fabindia.com; 21/101 Eastern Gate;
h 7.30am-7.30pm) India’s best high-quality
clothing outfitter for stylish Indian wear
that’s cool enough to ward off self-conscious-
ness at home snatched up a real coup loca-
tion here at the Taj’s East Gate.
366

STAYING AHEAD OF THE SCAMS

As well as the usual commission rackets and ever-present gem import scam, some
specific methods to relieve Agra tourists of their hard-earned include the following.

Rickshaws
When taking an auto or cycle-rickshaw to the Taj, make sure you are clear which gate
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal Agra

you want to go to when negotiating the price. Otherwise, almost without fail, riders will
take you to the roundabout at the south end of Shahjahan Gardens Rd – where ex-
pensive tongas (horse-drawn carriage) or camels wait to take tour groups to the west
gate – and claim that’s where they thought you meant. Only nonpolluting autos can go
within a 500m radius of the Taj because of pollution rules, but they can get a lot closer
than this.

Fake Marble
Lots of ‘marble’ souvenirs are actually alabaster, or even just soapstone. The mini
Taj Mahals are always alabaster because they are too intricate to carve quickly in
marble.

Subhash Emporium HANDICRAFTS MEDICAL SERVICES

(Map p355; www.subhashemporium.com; 18/1 Amit Jaggi Memorial Hospital (Map p355;
Gwalior Rd; h 9am-6pm) This expensive but www.ajmh.in; Vibhav Nagar, off Minto Rd) If

Informat

honest marble-carving shop has been
knocking up quality pieces for more than 35
years and offers a fairer price vs experience
than others in town.
i on
you’re sick, Dr Jaggi, who runs this private
clinic, is the man to see. He accepts most
health insurance plans from abroad; otherwise
a visit runs ₹1000 (day) or ₹2000 (night). He’ll
even do house calls.

Subhash Bazaar MARKET District Hospital (Map p355; MG Rd)

Skirts the northern edge of Agra’s Jama Mas-
jid and is particularly good for silks and saris.
Khadi Gramodyog CLOTHING
(Map p355; MG Rd; h 11am-7pm, closed Tue)
Stocks simple, good-quality men’s Indian
clothing made from the homespun khadi
fabric famously recommended by Mahat-
ma Gandhi. No English sign: on Mahatma
Gandhi (MG) Rd, look for the khadi logo of
hands clasped around a mud hut.
Modern Book Depot BOOKS
(Map p355; Sadar Bazaar; h 10.30am-9.30pm,
closed Tue) Great selection of novels, plus
Lonely Planet guides, at this 60-year-old
establishment.
88 Information
Agra is more wired than most, even in restau-
rants. Taj Ganj is riddled with internet cafes,
most charging between ₹30 and ₹40 per hour.
EMERGENCY
Tourist Police (Agra Cantonment Train Sta-
tion; h 24hr) The guys in sky-blue uniforms are
based on Fatahabad Rd, but have an office here
just outside the train station, as well as officers
that hang around the East Gate ticket office
and the UP Tourism office on Taj Rd as well as
major sites.
Government-run local hospital.
MONEY
ATMs are all over the city. There are three close
to the Taj, one near each gate. If you need to
change money and are worried about being
swindled in Taj Ganj, there is a Thomas Cook in
the East Gate ticket office complex.
POST
India Post (Map p355; www.indiapost.gov.
in; The Mall; h 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm
Sat) Includes a handy ‘facilitation office’ for
foreigners.
TOURIST INFORMATION
India Tourism (Map p355; www.incrediblein-
dia.org; 191 The Mall; h 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri,
to 2pm Sat) Very helpful branch; has brochures
on local and India-wide attractions and can
arrange guides (half-/full day ₹750/950).
Tourist Facilitation Centre (Taj East Gate;
h 9am-5pm Sat-Thu) This helpful tourist office
is part of the East Gate ticket office complex at
Shilpgrarm.
UP Tourism (www.up-tourism.com; h 6am-
10pm summer, to 9pm winter) The friendly
train station branch has round-the-clock help
and advice. Both this branch and the one on Taj
Rd (Map p355; www.up-tourism.com; 64 Taj Rd;
h 10.30am-5pm Mon-Sat) can arrange guides
(half-/full day ₹750/950).

88 Getting There & Away
AIR
Commercial flights to Agra’s Kheria Airport
began again in late 2012 after a long absence.
Air India (www.airindia.com) now flies Mon-
days, Wednesdays and Saturdays to Varanasi
(1.50pm) via Khajuraho. A new international
36 7
Delhi Non-AC (₹171 4½ hours, every 30 min-
utes 5am to 11.30pm); AC (₹443, 4½ hours,
7am, 1pm, 3pm and 6.30pm)
Fatehpur Sikri ₹34, one hour, every 30 min-
utes, 6am to 7pm
Gwalior ₹105, three hours, hourly, 5am to 1.30pm
Jaipur ₹199, six hours, every 30 minutes, 5am
to 1.30pm

Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal Agra

airport, something Delhi lobbyists have fought
against for years, was also greenlighted at time
of research, but don’t expect to see it in this
edition’s lifespan.
To access the airport, part of Indian Air Force
territory, your name must be on the list of those
with booked flights that day. Tickets must be
purchased online or by phone.
BUS
The opening of the 165km Yamuna Expressway
toll highway in 2012 cut drive time from Delhi to
Noida, a southeastern suburb, by 30%. Some
luxury coaches now use this route and reach
central Delhi faster.
Some services from Idgah bus stand (off
National Hwy 2, near Sikandra):
Jhansi ₹180, six hours, 5am, 12.30pm, 2pm,
8.30pm, 9.30pm and 10.30pm
Khajuraho ₹250, nine hours, 5.30am
A block east of Idgah, in front of Hotel Sakura,
the Rajashstan State Road Transport Corp
(RTDC; www.rsrtc.rajasthan.gov.in) runs more-
comfortable coaches to Jaipur throughout the
day. Services include non-AC (₹218, 5½ hours,
7.30am, 1pm and 4.30pm), AC (₹392, five hours,
6.30am, 8.30am and 11.30am) and luxury Volvo
(₹453, 4½ hours, 2.30pm).
From ISBT bus stand, luxury Volvo coaches
leave for Delhi (₹490, four hours, 7am,
11.30am, 1pm and 6pm) and Lucknow (₹772,
eight hours, 10am and 10pm); as well as

 ett i ng T here & Away

G
standard non-AC services to Allahabad (₹314,
Bharatpur ₹56, 1½ hours, every 30 minutes, 12 hours, 6.30pm), Varanasi (₹389, 16 hours,
4.30am to 11pm

TRANSPORT TO/FROM AGRA

Delhi–Agra Trains – Day Trippers
DURATION
TRIP TRAIN NO & NAME FARE (₹) (HR) DEPARTURES
New Delhi–Agra 12002 Shatabdi Exp 384/805 (A) 2 6am (except Fri)
Agra–New Delhi 12001 Shatabdi Exp 415/850 (A) 2 8.35pm (except Fri)
Hazrat Nizamud- 12280 Taj Exp 75/273 (B) 3 7.10am
din–Agra
Agra–Hazrat 12279 Taj Exp 75/273 (B) 3 6.55pm
Nizamuddin

Fares: (A) AC chair/1AC, (B) 2nd-class/AC chair

More Handy Trains from Agra (AGC/AF)

DURATION
DESTINATION TRAIN NO & NAME FARE (₹) (HR) DEPARTURES
Gorakhpur* 19037/19039 Avadh Exp 249/697/1050 (A) 15½ 10pm
Jaipur* 12036 Shatabdi Exp 415/890 (C) 3½ 4.20pm (except Thu)
Khajuraho 12448 UP SMPRK KRNTI 207/546/805 (A) 8 11.20pm (except
Wed)
Kolkata (Howrah) 13008 UA Toofan Exp 394/1119 (B) 31 12.40pm
Lucknow 93238/93237 Kota PNBE 164/446/655 (A) 6½ 11.30pm
Exp
Mumbai (CST) 12138/12137 Punjab Mail 410/1139/1770 (A) 23 8.55am
Varanasi 93238/13237 Kota PNBE 262/733/1110 (A) 12 11.30pm
Exp

Fares: (A) sleeper/3AC/2AC, *leaves from Agra Fort station; (B) sleeper/3AC only; (C) AC chair/1AC only
36 8
4.30pm) and Gorakhpur (₹517, 16 hours,
1.30pm, 3pm, 5pm, 9pm and 10pm). Dehra
Dun buses also depart from here (AC/non-AC
₹523/320, 11 hours, 6pm, 8pm and 9.30pm,
latter two non-AC) as well as three overnight
buses to Rishikesh (seat/sleeper ₹348/464,
10 hours, 6.30pm, 7.30pm and 10pm) if you’re
shut out of the train.
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal A
Bijli Ghar bus stand (Map p355) serves Math-
ura (₹49, 90 minutes, every 30 minutes, 6am to
7pm) as well as Tundla (₹25, one hour, every 30
minutes, 6am to 8.30pm), from where you can
catch 12382 Poorva Express at 8.35pm to Vara-
nasi if the trains from Agra are sold out.
Shared autos (₹10) run between Idgah and
Bijli Ghar bus stands. To get to ISBT, take the
AC public bus from Agra Cantt train station to
Dayalbagh (₹22) but get off at Baghwan Talkies
(₹16), from where shared autos (₹8) can take
you to ISBT; or catch a autorickshaw from Taj
Ganz (₹120).
TRAIN
Most trains leave from Agra Cantonment
 round
G
(Cantt) train station, although some go from
ett i ng Agra
Agra Fort station. A few trains, such as Marud-
har Express, run as slightly different numbers
on different days than those listed, but timings
remain the same.
A round
Express trains are well set up for day trippers
to/from Delhi but trains run to Delhi all day.
If you can’t reserve a seat, just buy a ‘general
ticket’ for the next train (about ₹62), find a seat
in Sleeper class then upgrade when the ticket
collector comes along. Most of the time, he
won’t even make you pay any more.
For Orchha, catch one of the many daily trains
to Jhansi (sleeper from ₹127, three hours), then
take a shared auto to the bus stand (₹10) from
where shared autos run all day to Orchha (₹15).
An autorickshaw runs ₹45 and ₹225, respec-
tively, for same route.
88 Getting Around
AUTORICKSHAW
Agra’s green-and-yellow autorickshaws run on
CNG (compressed natural gas) and are less
environmentally destructive. Just outside
Agra Cantt station is the prepaid autorickshaw
booth, which gives you a good guide for haggling
elsewhere. Note, autos aren’t allowed to go to
Fatehpur Sikri.
Sample prices from Agra Cantt station:
Fatahabad Rd ₹100; ISBT bus stand ₹150; Sadar
Bazaar ₹60; Sikandra ₹150; Taj Mahal ₹100,
Shilpgrarm (Taj East Gate) ₹120; half-day (four-
hour) tour ₹400; full-day (10-hour) tour ₹500.
Prices do not include a ₹5 booking fee.
CYCLE-RICKSHAW
Prices from the Taj Mahal include: Agra Cantt
train station ₹40; Agra Fort ₹30; Biili Ghar bus
stand ₹30; Fatahabad Rd ₹20; Kinari Bazaar
₹30; Sadar Bazaar ₹30; half-day tour ₹200.
TAXI
Outside Agra Cantt the prepaid taxi booth gives
a good idea of what taxis should cost. Non-AC
prices include: Delhi ₹3000; Fatahabad Rd ₹150;
Sadar Bazaar ₹100; Taj Mahal ₹150; half-day
(four-hour) tour ₹650; full-day (eight-hour) tour
₹850. Prices do not include a ₹10 booking fee.
A round Agra
Fatehpur Sikri
% 05613 / POP 29,000
This magnificent fortified ancient city, 40km
west of Agra, was the short-lived capital of
the Mughal empire between 1571 and 1585,
during the reign of Emperor Akbar. Akbar
visited the village of Sikri to consult the Sufi
saint Shaikh Salim Chishti, who predicted
the birth of an heir to the Mughal throne.
When the prophecy came true, Akbar built
his new capital here, including a stunning
mosque – still in use today – and three pal-
aces for each of his favourite wives, one a
Hindu, one a Muslim and one a Christian
(though Hindu villagers in Sikri dispute a
few of these claims). The city was an Indo-
Islamic masterpiece, but erected in an area
that supposedly suffered from water short-
ages and so was abandoned shortly after
Akbar’s death.
It’s easy to visit this World Heritage Site
as a day trip from Agra, but there are a cou-
ple of decent places to stay, and the colour-
ful bazaar in the village of Fatehpur, just
below the ruins, as well as the small village
of Sikri, a few kilometres north, are worth
exploring. Also, the red-sandstone palace
walls are at their most atmospheric, and
photogenic, at sunset.
The bus stand is at the eastern end of
the bazaar. Walking another 1km northeast
will bring you to Agra Gate and the junc-
tion with the main Agra–Jaipur road, from
where you can catch buses.
1 Sights
The palace buildings lie beside the Jama
Masjid mosque. Both sit on top of a ridge
that runs between the small villages
of Fatehpur and Sikri. See also the colour
illustration, p370.

Jama Masjid MOSQUE
This beautiful, immense mosque was com-
pleted in 1571 and contains elements of
Persian and Indian design. The main en-
trance, at the top of a flight of stone steps,
is through the spectacular 54m-high Buland
Darwaza (Victory Gate), built to commemo-
rate Akbar’s military victory in Gujarat.
Inside the courtyard of the mosque is the
stunning white-marble tomb of Shaikh
Salim Chishti, which was completed in
1581 and is entered through an original
door made of ebony. Inside it are brightly
coloured flower murals while the sandle-
wood canopy is decorated with mother-of-
pearl shell. Just as Akbar came to the saint
four centuries ago hoping for a son, child-
less women visit his tomb today and tie a
thread to the jali, which are among the fin-
est in India. To the right of the tomb lie the
gravestones of family members of Shaikh
Salim Chishti and nearby is the entrance to
an underground tunnel (barred by a locked
gate) that reputedly goes all the way to Agra
Fort! Behind the entrance to the tunnel, on
the far wall, are three holes, part of the an-
cient ventilation system. You can still feel
the rush of cool air forcing its way through
them. Just east of Shaikh Salim Chishti’s
tomb is the red-sandstone tomb of Islam
Khan, the final resting place of Shaikh Sal-
im Chishti’s grandson and one-time gover-
nor of Bengal.
On the east wall of the courtyard is a
smaller entrance to the mosque – the Shahi
Darwaza (King’s Gate), which leads to the
palace complex.
Palaces & Pavilions PALACES
(Indian/foreigner ₹20/260, video ₹25; h dawn-
dusk) A large courtyard dominates the north-
east entrance at Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public
Audiences). Now a pristinely manicured gar-
den, this is where Akbar presided over the
courts from the middle seat of the five equal
seatings along the western wall, flanked by
his advisors. It was built to utilise an echo
soundsystem, so Akbar could hear anything
at any time from anywhere in the open space.
Justice was dealt with swiftly if legends are
to be believed, with public executions said
to have been carried out here by elephants
trampling to death convicted criminals.
The Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Au-
diences), found at the northern end of the
Pachisi Courtyard, looks nothing special
from the outside, but the interior is domi-
nated by a magnificently carved stone cen-
369
tral column. This pillar flares to create a
flat-topped plinth linked to the four corners
of the room by narrow stone bridges. From
this plinth Akbar is believed to have debated
with scholars and ministers who stood at
the ends of the four bridges.
Next to Diwan-i-Khas is the Treasury,
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal A
which houses secret stone safes in some
corners (one has been left with its stone
lid open for visitors to see). Sea monsters
carved on the ceiling struts were there to
protect the fabulous wealth once stored
here. The so-called Astrologer’s Kiosk in
front has roof supports carved in a serpen-
tine Jain style.
Just south of the Astrologer’s Kiosk is
Pachisi Courtyard, named after the an-
cient game known in India today as ludo.
The large, plus-shaped gameboard is vis-
ible surrounding the block in the middle
of the courtyard. In the southeast corner is
the most intricately carved structure in the
whole complex, the tiny but elegant Rumi
 iround
S
Sultana, which was said to be the palace
ghts Agra
built for Akbar’s Turkish Muslim wife, but
other theories say it was used by Akbar him-
self as a palace R&R/powder room during
court sessions. On one corner of the Ladies
Garden just west of Pachisi is the impres-
sive Panch Mahal, a pavilion whose five sto-
reys decrease in size until the top one con-
sists of only a tiny kiosk. The lower floor has
84 columns, all different, and total colums
clock in at 176.
Continuing anticlockwise will bring you
to the Ornamental Pool. Here, singers and
musicians would perform on the platform
above the water while Akbar watched from
the pavilion in his private quarters, known
as Daulat Khana (Abode of Fortune). Be-
hind the pavilion is the Khwabgah (Dream
House), a sleeping area with a huge stone
bunk bed. Nowadays the only sleeping done
here is by bats, hanging from the ceiling. The
small room in the far corner is full of them!
Heading west from the Ornamental Pool
beholds the Palace of Jodh Bai, and the
one-time home of Akbar’s Hindu wife, said
to be his favourite. Set around an enormous
courtyard, it blends traditional Indian col-
umns, Islamic cupolas and turquoise-blue
Persian roof tiles. Just outside, to the left
of Jodh Bai’s former kitchen, is the Palace
of the Christian Wife. This was used by
Akbar’s Goan wife Mariam, who gave birth
(Continued on page 372)
Fatehpur Sikri

KEVIN RAUB ©
A WALKING TOUR OF
FATEHPUR SIKRI
You can enter this fortied ancient city
from two entrances, but the northeast
entrance at Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public
Audiences) offers the most logical approach
to this remarkable Unesco World Heritage
site. This large courtyard (now a garden)
is where Emperor Akbar presided over the
trials of accused criminals. Once through
the ticket gate, you are in the northern end
of the Pachisi Courtyard . The rst
building you see is Diwan-i-Khas
Buland Darwaza
(Hall of Private Audiences), the interior Most tours end with an exit through Jama Masjid’s Victory
of which is dominated by a magnicently Gate. Walk out and take a look behind you: Behold! The mag-
nicent 15-storey sandstone gate, 54m high, is a menacing
carved central stone column. Pitch monolith to Akbar’s reign.
south and enter Rumi Sultana , a
small but elegant palace built for Akbar’s
Turkish Muslim wife. It’s hard to miss
the Ornamental Pool nearby – its
southwest corner provides Fatehpur
Sikri’s most photogenic angle, perfectly
framing its most striking building, the
ve-storey Panch Mahal, one of the
gateways to the Imperial Harem Complex,
where the Lower Haramsara once
housed more than 200 female servants.
Wander around the Palace of Jodh Bai
and take notice of the towering ode to an
elephant, the 21m-high Hiran Minar ,
in the distance to the northwest. Leave
the palaces and pavilions area via Shahi
Darwaza (King’s Gate), which spills into Shahi
India’s second-largest mosque courtyard at Darwaza
(King's Gate)
Jama Masjid . Inside this immense and
gorgeous mosque is the sacred Tomb of
Tomb of Shaikh
Shaikh Salim Chishti . Exit through Salim Chishti Jama Masjid
the spectacular Buland Darwaza Each knot in the strings tied to the The elaborate marble
(Victory Gate), one of the world’s most 56 carved white marble designs of inlay work at the
the interior walls of Shaikh Salim Badshahi Gate and
magnicent gateways. Chishti’s tomb represents one wish throughout the Jama
of a maximum three. Masjid complex is said
to have inspired similar
work 82 years later at
the Taj Mahal in Agra.
KEVIN RAUB ©

KEVIN RAUB ©
 KEVIN RAUB ©

KEVIN RAUB ©

KEVIN RAUB ©
Diwan-i-Khas
Emperor Akbar modi-
Hiran Minar ed the central stone
This bizarre, seldom-visited tower off the north- column inside Diwan-i-
west corner of Fatehpur Sikri is decorated with Khas to call attention
hundreds of stone representations of elephant to a new religion he
tusks. It is said to be the place where Minar, called Din-i-Ilahi (God
Akbar’s favourite execution elephant, died. is One). The intricately
Pachisi Courtyard carved column features
Under your feet just past Rumi Sultana is the a fusion of Hindu,
Pachisi Courtyard where Akbar is said to have Muslim, Christian and
played the game pachisi (an ancient version of Buddhist imagery.
ludo) using slave girls in colourful dress as pieces.

Panch
Mahal

Diwan-i-Am
(Hall of Public
Audiences)

Rumi Sultana
Don’t miss the headless creatures carved into
Ornamental Pool Rumi Sultana’s palace interiors: a lion, deer, an
Tansen, said to be the most gifted Indian vocalist eagle and a few peacocks were beheaded by
Lower jewel thieves who swiped the precious jewels that
te) of all time and one of Akbar’s treasured nine
Haramsara Navaratnas (Gems), would be showered with coins originally formed their heads.
Akbar reportedly during performances from the central platform of
kept more than 5000 the Ornamental Pool.
concubines, but the
200 or so female
servants housed in
the Lower Haramsara
were strictly business.
Knots were tied to
these sandstone rings
to support partitions
between their individual
quarters.
KEVIN RAUB ©

KEVIN RAUB ©
KEVIN RAUB ©
37 2
(Continued from page 369)
to Jehangir here in 1569, though some be-
lieve Akbar never had a Christian wife at all,
and that Mariam was short for Mariam-Ut-
Zamani, a title he gave to Jodh Bai mean-
ing ‘Beautiful like a Rose’, or ‘Most Beautiful
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal M
Woman on Earth’. Like many of the build-
ings in the palace complex, it contains ele-
ments of different religions, as befitted Ak-
bar’s tolerant religious beliefs. The domed
ceiling is Islamic in style, while remnants of
a wall painting of the Hindu god Shiva can
also be found.
Walking past the Palace of the Christian
Wife once more will take you west to Birbal
Bhavan, ornately carved inside and out,
and thought to have been the living quar-
ters of one of Akbar’s most senior ministers.
The Lower Haramsara, just to the south,
housed Akbar’s large inventory of live-in fe-
male servants.
Plenty of ruins are scattered behind the
 AT H U R A
Tours
whole complex, including the Caravanse-
rai, a vast courtyard surrounded by rooms
where visiting merchants stayed. Badly de-
faced carvings of elephants still guard Hathi
Pol (Elephant Gate), while the remains
of the small Stonecutters’ Mosque and
a hammam (bath) are also a short stroll
away. Other unnamed ruins can be explored
north of what is known as the Mint but is
thought to have in fact been stables, includ-
ing some in the interesting village of Sikri
to the north.
T Tours
Official Archaeological Society of India
guides can be hired from the ticket office for
₹300 (English), but they aren’t always the
most knowledgeable (some have been birth-
righted in). Official Uttar Pradesh Tourism
guides have gone through more rigorous
training and can be hired for ₹750. Our fa-
vorite is Pankaj Bhatnagar (% 8126995552;
www.tajinvitation.com).
4 Sleeping & Eating
Fatehpur Sikri’s culinary speciality is
khataie, the biscuits you can see piled high
in the bazaar.
Goverdhan Tourist Complex HOTEL $
(% 9412526585; www.hotelfatehpursikriviews.com;
Agra Rd; d ₹400-650, with AC ₹950-1250; aiW )
Brightly painted, spotless rooms set around
a very well-kept garden. There’s communal
balcony and terrace seating, free internet and
wi-fi. The restaurant is decent (meals ₹80 to
₹180) but our four pieces of paneer means
portions leave something to be desired. The
friendly owner chucks off 20% for singles.
Hotel Ajay Palace GUEST HOUSE $
(% 282950; Agra Rd; d ₹300) This very friendly
family guesthouse has three simple double
rooms with marble floors and sit-down flush
toilets. It’s also a very popular lunch stop
(mains ₹40 to ₹120). Sit on the rooftop at
the large, elongated marble table and enjoy
a view of the village streets with the Jama
Masjid towering above. Note it is not ‘Ajay
Restaurant By Near Palace’ at the bus stand –
it’s 50m more along the road.
88 Information
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Take no notice of anyone who gets on the Fateh-
pur Sikri–Agra bus before the final stop at Idgah
Bus Stand, telling you that you have arrived at
the city centre or the Taj Mahal. You haven’t.
You’re still a long autorickshaw ride away, and
the man trying to tease you off the bus is, sur-
prise surprise, an autorickshaw driver.
88 Getting There & Away
Tours and taxis all arrive at the Gulistan Tourist
Complex parking lot, from which shuttle buses
(₹5) depart for Fatehpur Sikri’s Diwan-i-Am
entrance (right side of the street) and Jodh Bai
entrance (left side of the street). Note that if you
have hired an unauthorised guide, you will not be
allowed to enter at Diwan-i-Am.
Buses run to Agra’s Idgah Bus Stand from the
bazaar every half-hour (₹34), from 6am to 7pm.
If you miss those, walk to Agra Gate and wave
down a Jaipur–Agra bus on the main road. They
run regularly, day and night.
For Bharatpur (₹20, 40 minutes) or Jaipur
(₹170, 4½ hours), wave down a westbound bus
from Agra Gate.
Regular trains for Agra Fort Station leave
Fatehpur Sikri at 4.51am (59811 Haldighati Pass)
and 8.12pm (19037 Avadh Express), but there are
simpler passenger trains at 10.30am and 3.55pm
as well as four other trains that fly through at
various times. Just buy a ‘general’ ticket at the
station and pile in (₹6, one to two hours).
Mathura
% 0565 / POP 395,000
Famed for being the birthplace of the much-
loved Hindu god Krishna, Mathura is one of
Hinduism’s seven sacred cities and attracts
 37 3
floods of pilgrims, particularly during Jan- Mathura e
# 0 500 m
0 0.25 miles
mastami (Krishna's birthday; h Aug/Sep) in A B
August/September; and Holi in February/ Gita

D
#
Temple
March. The town is dotted with temples (2.5km) Vishram 4
Ghat & á#
from various ages and the stretch of the sa- 3
Around
cred Yamuna River which flows past here is 1 Þ
# #Tempos to
˜ 1
Vrindavan
lined with 25 ghats, best seen at dawn, when #2
ß

Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal M

many people take their holy dip, and just 5ÿ
#
after sunset, when hundreds of candles are Bazaar
sent floating out onto the river during the #

evening aarti ceremony. Archway

Mathura was once a Buddhist centre with
New Bus
20 monasteries that housed 3000 monks Stand â
#
but, after the rise of Hinduism, and later 2 ›
# 1 2

w
sackings by Afghan and Mughal invaders,

w
today all that’s left of the oldest sights are
8
the beautiful sculptures recovered from ru- 7ð
#
ins, now on display in the archaeological
ì#6
#ÿ

d
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museum.

io
St

Stat
a t i on
1 Sights Rd
3 3
Kesava Deo Temple HINDU TEMPLE
Mathura

 iAT
S
(Shri Kirshna Janmbhoomi; h summer 5am-
Junction

ghts
9.30pm, winter 5.30am-8.30pm) Among the Train Station £
#

foundations of the mural-filled Kesava Deo
temple complex is a small, bare room with
a slab of rock on which Krishna is said to
have been born, some 3500 years ago. Next
door is Katra Masjid, a mosque built by Au-
rangzeb in 1661 on the site of a temple he
ordered to be destroyed. The mosque is now
guarded round the clock by soldiers to pre-
vent a repeat of the tragic events at Ayodhya
in 1992 (p381). Cameras and mobiles must
be checked here for ₹2 per piece.
Archaeological Museum MUSEUM
(Museum Rd; Indian/foreigner ₹5/25; h 10.30am-
4.30pm Tue-Sun) This large museum house
superb collections of religious sculptures
by the Mathura school, which flourished
from the 3rd century BC to the 12th cen-
tury AD.
HURA
A B
Mathura
æ Sights
1 Archaeological Museum .................... B2
2 Katra Masjid ........................................A1
3 Kesava Deo Temple ............................A1
4 Sati Burj...............................................B1
ÿ Sleeping
5 Agra Hotel ...........................................B1
6 Hotel Brijwasi Royal ........................... B2
ï Information
7 Internet Paradise ............................... A2
8 State Bank of India............................. B2
Gita Temple HINDU TEMPLE

Vishram Ghat & Around AREA

A string of ghats and temples lines the Ya-
muna River north of the main road bridge.
The most central and most popular is
Vishram Ghat, where Krishna is said to have
rested after killing the tyrannical King Kan-
sa. Boats gather along the banks here to take
tourists along the Yamuna (₹100 per half
hour). Beside the ghat is the 17m Sati Burj,
a four-storey tower built by the son of Behari
Mal of Jaipur in 1570 to commemorate his
mother’s sati (self-immolation on her hus-
band’s funeral pyre).
(h dawn-dusk) This serene marble temple, on
the road to Vrindavan, has the entire Bhaga-
vad Gita written on a red pillar in the garden.
4 Sleeping & Eating
Agra Hotel GUESTHOUSE $
(% 2403318; Bengali Ghat; s ₹350-350, d ₹500-
550, tr ₹650, d/tr with AC ₹800/900; a ) This
area, with narrow lanes winding their way
down to the ghats and temples that line the
Yamuna River, is easily the most interesting
place to stay. Rooms here are basic but have
character and some overlook the river, while
staff members are very welcoming.
374
Hotel Brijwasi Royal HOTEL $$
(% 2401224; www.brijwasiroyal.com; Station Rd;
s/d incl breakfast from ₹2467/2867; aW ) A clean
and contemporary hotel with businesslike
rooms that come with either marble floors
or carpets, some overlooking a buffalo pond
behind. The restaurant (meals ₹105 to ₹175)
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal V
does good quality Indian veg dishes, South
Indian breakfasts and Chinese meals, and
is deservedly popular. There’s also a smoky,
male-dominated bar (beer from ₹130).
88 Information
Near New bus stand is a State Bank of India
(Station Rd; h 10.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm
Sat), which has a 1st-floor money-exchange desk
and an ATM outside. The small Internet Paradise
(Vrindavan Rd; per hr ₹30; h 6am-10pm) just
across the roundabout from the bank on the way
towards the New bus stand offers internet access.
88 Getting There & Around
 R I N DAVA N
Informat
BUS
The so-called New bus stand has regular buses
to Delhi (₹109, four hours) and Agra (₹49,
90 minutes) that run every 15 to 30 minutes
throughout the day and night. Tempos (large
i on
autorickshaws) charge ₹15 for the 10km Mathu-
ra–Vrindavan run.
TRAIN
Regular trains go to Delhi (sleeper/AC chair
₹140/206, three hours), Agra (sleeper/AC chair
₹140/202, one hour), and Bharatpur (sleeper/
AC chair ₹80/218, 45 minutes). The Bharatpur
trains continue to Sawai Madhopur (for Ran-
thambhore National Park, two hours) and Kota
(5½ hours).
Vrindavan
% 0565 / POP 65,000
The village of Vrindavan is where the young
Krishna is said to have grown up. Pilgrims
flock here from all over India and, in the
case of the Hare Krishna community, from
all over the world. Dozens of temples, old
and modern, dot the area. They come in all
shapes and sizes and many have their own
unique peculiarities, making a visit here
more than just your average temple hop.
1 Sights
The International Society for Krishna
Consciousness (Iskcon; % 2540343; www.isk
con.com), also known as the Hare Krishnas,
is based at the Krishna Balaram temple
complex (Ishkon Temple), accessed through
a beautiful white-marble gate, which houses
the tomb of Swami Prabhupada (1896–1977),
the founder of the Hare Krishna organisa-
tion. Several hundred foreigners attend
courses and seminars here annually. The
temple is closed to the public at various
times of the day, most significantly from
noon to 4pm.
The cavernous, red sandstone Govind
Dev Temple, built in 1590 by Raja Man
Singh of Amber, has cute bells carved on its
pillars. Resident monkeys here are as cheeky
as any in India. We caught one running off
with a lady’s purse and saw another sitting
in the rafters wearing a pair of sunglasses!
The 10-storey Pagal Baba Temple (ad-
mission ₹3), a fairytale-castle lookalike, has
an amusing succession of animated puppets
and dioramas in glass cases on the ground
floor, which depict scenes from the lives of
Rama and Krishna.
Rangaji Temple, dating from 1851, Rad-
ha Ballabh Temple, built in 1626, Madan
Mohan Temple and Nidhivan Temple are
also worth a visit.
4 Sleeping & Eating
It’s possible to stay at the guesthouse
(% 9634073197; www.iskconvrindavan.com; d with-
out AC ₹700, d/tr with AC ₹950/1470) at the back
of the temple complex (though devotees are
prioritised). Here you’ll also find the clean,
cool and healthy Sri Govinda Restaurant
(mains ₹90-200; h 8am-2:30pm & 6-9.30pm),
which does Indian veg dishes, pasta, cakes,
shakes, salads and soups. There’s a small
bakery beside it.
88 Information
There is an information office (h 10am-1pm &
5-8.30pm) in the Krishna Balaram temple complex
which has lists of places to stay in Vrindavan and
can help with booking Gita (studies in the Bhaga-
vad Gita, an ancient Hindu scripture) classes.
There’s an ATM beside the temple and you
can check internet (with wi-fi!) at Priya Travels
(priyatravels59@yahoo.in; Shop 20, opp Ishkon
Temple, Main Gate; per hr ₹30; h 6am-10pm)
opposite.
88 Getting There & Around
Most temples are open from dawn to dusk and
admission is free, but they are well spread out so
a cycle-rickshaw tour is a good way to see them.
Expect to pay ₹150 to ₹200 for a half-day tour.
Tempos, shared autos and buses all charge
₹15 from Vrindavan to Mathura.
 375

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Lucknow 1 Sights
% 0522 / POP 2.9 MILLION oResidency HISTORIC SITE

U
Liberally sprinkled with British Raj–era (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100, video ₹25; h dawn-dusk)

buildings – including the famous Residency –
and boasting two superb mausoleums, the
capital of Uttar Pradesh plays a somewhat
unwarranted third fiddle to Agra and Vara-
nasi, but caters well to history buffs with-
out attracting the hordes of tourists that
sometimes make sightseeing tiresome. By
contrast, Lucknow’s modern side boasts a
unique Iron Curtain-esque feel, with gran-
diose monuments and overstated parks and
gardens, many boasting marble sidewalks
and pink sandstone a plenty (we imagine
they were going for a Washington, DC aes-
thetic but ended up more Pyongyang). It’s
nothing if not interesting.
The city rose to prominence as the home
of the Nawabs of Avadh (Oudh) who were
great patrons of the culinary and other arts,
particularly dance and music. Lucknow’s
reputation as a city of culture, gracious liv-
ing and rich cuisine has continued to this
day (it conveniently rhymes in Hindi: ‘Na-
wab, Aadaab [Respect], Kebab and Shabab
[Beauty]’). And eating out is still a major
highlight of a visit to the city.
In 1856 the British annexed Avadh, exiling
Nawab Wajid Ali Shah to a palace in Kolkata
(Calcutta). The disruption this caused was a
factor behind the First War of Independence
of 1857, culminating in the dramatic Siege of
Lucknow at the Residency.
i ghts
CKNOW
The large collection of gardens and ruins
that makes up the Residency offers a fasci-
nating historical glimpse of the beginning
of the end for the British Raj. Built in 1800,
the Residency became the stage for the most
dramatic events of the 1857 First War of In-
dependence, the Siege of Lucknow, a 147-day
siege that claimed the lives of thousands.
The compound has been left as it was at the
time of the final relief and the walls are still
pockmarked from bullets and cannon balls.
The focus is the well-designed museum
(h 9am-4.30pm Sat-Thu) in the main Residen-
cy building, which includes a scale model of
the original buildings. Downstairs are the
huge basement rooms where many of the
British women and children lived through-
out the siege.
The cemetery around the ruined St
Mary’s church is where 2000 of the defend-
ers were buried, including their leader, Sir
Henry Lawrence, ‘who tried to do his duty’
according to the famous inscription on his
weathered gravestone.
oBara Imambara HISTORIC BUILDING
(Hussainabad Trust Rd; Indian/foreigner ₹35/350;
h dawn-dusk) This colossal tomb is worth
seeing in its own right, but the highly unu-
sual labyrinth of corridors inside its upper
floors make a visit to this imambara (tomb
dedicated to a Shiite holy man) particularly
special. The ticket price includes entrance to
Chota Imambara, the clock tower and the
376

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baradari (summer palace), all walking dis- balconies. As with the step-well, it’s handy
tance from here. to have a torch.
The complex is accessed through two Just beyond the Bara Imambara is the
enormous gateways which lead into a huge unusual but imposing gateway Rumi Dar-
courtyard. On one side is an attractive waza (Hussainabad Trust Rd), said to be a copy
mosque, on the other a large baori (step- of an entrance gate in Istanbul. ‘Rumi’ (relat-
well) which can be explored. Bring a torch ing to Rome) is the term Muslims applied
(flashlight). At the far end of the courtyard is to Istanbul when it was still Byzantium, the
the huge central hall, one of the world’s larg- capital of the Eastern Roman empire. Over
est vaulted galleries. Tazias (small replicas the road is the beautiful white mosque Tila
of Imam Hussain’s tomb in Karbala, Iraq) Wali Masjid, a deceptively shallow building
are stored inside and are paraded around built in 1680. The interior is repainted peri-
during the Shiite mourning ceremony of odically over the original designs.
Muharram.
But it’s what’s beyond the small entrance oChota Imambara HISTORIC BUILDING
(intriguingly marked ‘labyrinth’) to the left (Hussainabad Imambara; Hussainabad Trust Rd; ad-
of the central hall, that steals the show. It mission with Bara Imambara ticket) About 500m
leads to the Bhulbhulaiya, an enticing net- beyond the Bara Imambara, through a sec-
work of narrow passageways that winds its ond beautiful gateway, is another tomb that
way inside the upper floors of the tomb’s was constructed by Mohammed Ali Shah
structure, eventually leading out to rooftop in 1832, who is buried here, alongside his
mother. Smaller than the Bara Imambara

Lucknow
æ Top Sights
1 Bara Imambara ..................................... A1
2 Chota Imambara ................................... A1
3 Residency..............................................B2
æ Sights
4 Baradari ................................................. A1
5 Chowk....................................................A2
6 Clock Tower .......................................... A1
7 Rumi Darwaza ....................................... A1
8 Satkhanda ............................................. A1
9 Tila Wali Masjid...................................... A1
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
UP Tourism Heritage Walking
Tour ........................................... (see 10)
ÿ Sleeping
10 Hotel Gomti ...........................................D2
11 Hotel Mayur ...........................................B4
12 Lucknow Homestay ..............................D4
13 Tekarees Inn..........................................D3
ú Eating
14 Falaknuma.............................................C2
15 Moti Mahal Restaurant .........................D3
but adorned with calligraphy, it has a more
serene and intimate atmosphere.
Mohammed’s silver throne and red crown
can be seen here as well as countless chande-
liers and some brightly decorated tazias. In
the garden is a water tank and two replicas of
the Taj Mahal that are the tombs of Moham-
med Ali Shah’s daughter and her husband. A
traditional hammam is off to one side.
Outside the complex, the decaying watch-
tower on the other side of the road is known
as Satkhanda (Seven Storey Tower; Hussainabad
Trust Rd), although it has only four storeys be-
cause construction was abandoned in 1840
when Mohammed Ali Shah died.
The 67m red-brick clock tower (admission
with Bara Imambara ticket; h dawn-dusk), the tall-
est in India, was built in the 1880s. Nearby
is a baradari (summer palace; admission with
Bara Imambara ticket; h 7am-6.30pm), a striking
red-brick building, built in 1842, which over-
looks an artificial lake and houses portraits
of the nawabs.
T Tours
o UP Tourism Heritage
Walking Tour WALK
UP(% 9415013047; 6 Sapru Marg, Hotel Gomti; 3hr
tour Indian/foreigner ₹75/150; h tours 8am) This
37 7
16 Royal Cafe ............................................. C3
17 Sakhawat .............................................. C2
18 Tunday Kababi ...................................... B3
û Drinking & Nightlife
19 Cafe Coffee Day .................................... D3
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal LTours
Strokes Sports Bar ...................... (see 16)
Tashna Bar ................................... (see 10)
þ Shopping
20 Ram Advani
Bookshop ........................................... C3
21 Sugandhco............................................ C3
ï Information
22 Balrampur District
Hospital .............................................. B2
23 HDFC ATM ............................................ C3
24 ICICI Bank ............................................. C3
UP Tourism .................................. (see 10)
UP Tourism Kiosk ........................ (see 19)
ï Transport
 UCKNOW
25 Charbagh Bus Stand ............................ B4
26 Kaiserbagh Bus
Stand .................................................. B2
fabulous three-hour Heritage Walking Tour
run by UP Tourism could well turn out to
be the best ₹150 you ever spend. Meet your
English-speaking guide outside Tila Wali
Masjid then follow him first around the
mosque, then the Bara Imambara, before
delving in to the architectural delights of
the crazy maze of alleyways in the incredibly
fascinating Chowk district, sampling inter-
esting nibbles along the way like Namash (a
surprisingly light and tasty concoction made
from milk, cream and morning dew!). This
is an eye-popping way to get your bearings
amongst Lucknow’s oldest neighborhoods
before returning on your own in the evening
when things really get started.
4 Sleeping
Lucknow Homestay HOMESTAY $
(% 6460592; www.lucknowhomestay.wordpress.
com; 110D Mall Ave; s/d ₹600/700, without bath-
room ₹500/600, with AC ₹900/1000, all incl
breakfast; aW ) It’s not without issues (mos-
quitoes, negligable hot water, poor atten-
tion to email), but this remains Lucknow’s
most accomodating budget option. In the
leafy neighbourhood home, Naheed and
family keep their distance but offer 11 sim-
ple rooms – two with private bathrooms.
The house number isn’t marked, but a sign
378
reading ‘Munni’s Dream’ is above the front
door. Rickshaw drivers know Mall Ave,
which is actually a neighborhood (not mere-
ly a street), but you’ll need to orient your-
self upon arrival if you want to find your
way back home, as the address is amid the
maze if you enter the neighborhood from
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal LE
anywhere other than the Mahatma Gandhi
(MG) Rd side. Better yet, get to know Na-
heed’s favorite rickshaw driver, the honest,
reliable and English-speaking Guatam, and
keep him close.
Hotel Mayur HOTEL $
(% 2451824; Subhash Marg; s/d ₹400/500, with-
out bathroom ₹300/350, with AC ₹850/950; a )
Good-value rooms in this well-run estab-
lishment with limited English are basic but
come with cable TV and some have huge
bathrooms. Definitely one of the better
cheapies near the train station. It’s hard to
spot – look up for a small sign on Subhash
Marg just around the corner from Kanpor
U
Rd/Charbagh bus stand.
atCiKng
Hotel Gomti HOTEL $$
NOW
(% 2611463; hotelgomti@up-tourism.com; 6 Tej
Bahadur, Sapru Marg; s/d ₹800/900, with AC from
₹1463/1575; a ) A better government-run ho-
tel than most, though bottom of the barrel
rooms with air coolers are a bit musty. From
there, the four catagories of AC rooms won’t
knock you out, but all come reasonably well
equipped, with TV, sofa, table and chairs. A
restaurant, a bar with a garden and a UP
Tourism office are all here, too.
Vivanta by Taj HOTEL $$$
(%6771000; www.vivantabytaj.com; Vipan
Khand, Gomti Nagar; s/d incl breakfast from
₹11,242/12,366; a i W s ) Lucknow’s top ho-
tel resides in an enormous stately building
built as a domed homage to Taj’s famous
Taj Mahal Hotel in Mumbai and instills a
sense of head-of-state in those alighting
here. Rooms are modest but well-honed at
the 110-room property, with newer rooms
offering whimsical refinement without
stuffiness, with fun cubicle showers and
hardwood headboards. There’s a scrump-
tious bakery, the excellent Nawab restau-
rant Oudhyana, a small spa and gym, a le-
gitimate bar with a fiercely creative cocktail
list (drinks ₹499 to ₹699) and a wonderful
marble-flanked pool.
Tekarees Inn HOTEL $$$
(% 2288928; www.tekareesinn.com; 17/3 Ashok
Marg; s/d from ₹2248/3147; aiW ) Neat and
tidy 20-room businesslike hotel with mar-
ble floors in decent-sized twin rooms. Bath-
rooms are spartan but clean and the owner
is extremly friendly.
5 Eating
The refined palates of the Nawabs left
Lucknow with a reputation for rich Mugh-
lai cuisine, and the city’s dinner tables are
heavily influenced by the Arab world. Luck-
now is famous for its biryani dishes as well
as its wide range of kebabs. It’s also known
for dum pukht – the ‘art’ of steam-pressure
cooking, in which meat and vegetables are
cooked in a sealed clay pot.
oSakhawat NORTH INDIAN $
(www.sakhawatrestaurant.com; 2 Kaiserbagh Ave,
behind Awadh Gymkhana Club; kebabs ₹80; h 5-
10pm) This highly recommended hole-in-the-
wall place doesn’t look like much, but the
mutton galawat kebabs at this locals’ haunt
are actually the best we had in Lucknow –
the smoky, perfectly crispy char makes the
difference – and, despite appearances, it has
won international accolades and doubles
as an Awadh cooking institute (it can whip
out some 72 different dishes per week). The
present owner’s great-grandfather was a
brigadier in the British Army and a Nawab
chef.
Tunday Kababi NORTH INDIAN $
(Naaz Cinema Rd, just off Aminabad Rd; dishes
₹55-95; h 11am-12.30am) Tucked away down
a small street in the bustling Aminabad
district, this renowned, 100-year-old kebab
shop serves up delicious plates of mutton
biryani, kebabs and tandoori chicken. The
mutton kebab here is impossibly delicious.
Consider coming along early to give yourself
time for a wander around the bazaar here, a
prime location for picking up chikan (deli-
cately embroidered muslin cloth). Rickshaw
riders know how to find this place. You’ll
find other Tunday kebab restaurants around
the city, some of which are franchises, most
of which are copies.
Moti Mahal Restaurant INDIAN $$
(75 MG Rd; mains ₹50-150; h 11am-11pm) If
Mughlai meat country has got you down,
seek refuge in popular veg hideway on MG
Rd. It’s perfect for a late breakfast (best
poori sabji we had in UP!) or lunch. Come
evening, head upstairs for more-refined din-
ing in the good-quality, low-lit air-con res-
taurant. You could do worse here than try
 37 9

LUCKNOW’S KEBABS DECONSTRUCTED

Kakori Kebab
Originates from Kakori, a small town outside Lucknow. Legend has it that the old and
toothless Nawab of Kakori asked his royal bawarchi (chef) to make kebabs that would
simply melt in the mouth. So these kebabs are made adding papaya as a tenderiser to

Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal LD

raw mincemeat and a mix of spices. They are then applied to skewers and barbecued
over charcoals.

Galawat Kebab
This is the mouth-watering creation that is served up in Lucknow’s most famous kebab
restaurant, Tunday Kababi. There it is simply referred to as a mutton kebab, and in other
restaurants it is often called Tunday. Galawat is the name of the tenderiser that’s used
for these kebabs. Essentially, they are the same as Kakori kebabs except that rather
than being barbecued they are made into patties and shallow fried in oil or ghee. It also
comes in a beef version, a rarity in India.

Shami Kebab
Raw mincemeat is boiled with spices and black gram lentil. It is then ground on stone
before being mixed with finely chopped onions, coriander leaves and green chillies and
shaped into patties and then shallow fried.

 UrCi nk
the Lucknow dum aloo (potatoes stuffed Falaknuma MUGHLAI, NORTH INDIAN $$$

K NiO
with nuts and paneer in a tomato-based (Hotel Clarks Avadh, 8 MG Rd; mains ₹230-460;

ng
sauce) but it’s all excellent. h 12.30-3pm & 8-11.30pm) The stylish rooftop

Royal Cafe MUGHLAI $$
(51 MG Rd; chaat from ₹35, mains ₹135-285;
h 11am-11pm) Even if you don’t step inside
this excellent restaurant, don’t miss its
exceedingly popular chaat (spicy snack)
stand at the front where mixed chaat are
served in an aloo (potato) basket or in mini
puris. Inside you can dine on an extensive
menu of fine Mughlai cuisine, mouth-
watering kebabs, Chinese and even pizza.
Our murg mirch masala (chicken in a
spicy coconut and poppyseed tomato gra-
vy) was perfect.
Oudhyana MUGHLAI, NORTH INDIAN $$$
(www.vivantabytaj.com; Vivanta by Taj Hotel, Vipin
Khand, Gomti Nagar; mains ₹550-900) If you
want to savor the flavors of the Nawabs
performing at their culinary best, look no
further than Oudhyana, where chef Nagen-
dra Singh gives Lucknow’s famous Awadh
cuisine its royal due at the signature restau-
rant inside the city’s top hotel. The flavors
of everything Singh does, from the famous
galawat and kakori kebabs to an entire
menu of long-lost heritage dishes, unravel
like an intricate gastronomic spy novel in
your mouth. The intimate room is impossi-
bly striking as well, dressed up in soothing
baby blues with chandelier accoutrements.
A special night out.
W & N i ght l i fe
dining room of the upmarket Clarks Avadh
Hotel has fabulous bird’s-eye views and
serves up sumptuous Nawab cuisine, includ-
ing the famous kebabs and an outstanding
list of rich, vibrant curries. There’s a small
bar area (beer from ₹250) if you just want to
enjoy the views; or even use the ultra-clean
bathroom, which offers death-by-lemon-ver-
bena, a welcomed demise.
6 Drinking & Nightlife
Cafe Coffee Day CAFE
(www.cafecoffeeday.com; 31/82 MG Marg; coffee
from ₹53; h 9am-11pm) Our favourite Indian
coffee chain – known as CCD by locals – sits
in prime position at the beginning of MG
Rd’s upscale shopping district.
Strokes Sports Bar BAR
(Capoor’s Hotel, MG Rd; h11am-11pm Sun-Fri, to
midnight Sat) With metallic decor, zebra-print
chairs, ultraviolet lights and a backlit bar, this
must be one of the strangest places in India
to come to watch the latest cricket match on
TV. Set it all to an international, pop-heavy
soundtrack and the results are surreal. Even
the middle-modern Indian ladies go, albeit
in smaller numbers. Good times.
Tashna Bar BAR
(Sapru Marg, Hotel Gomti; h noon-11pm Mon-Fri, to
midnight Sat & Sun) Has the usual AC bar with
3 80
little atmosphere found in many hotels, but
with the added attraction of a beer garden
on a well-tended lawn.
7 Shopping
Lucknow is famous for chikan, an embroi-
dered cloth worn by men and women. It is
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal LS
EMERGENCY
Tourist Police (h 6am-10pm) This helpful
branch of the tourist police doubles as a tourist
information centre. It’s just inside the lobby at
Charbagh Station.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Balrampur District Hospital (Hospital Rd)

sold in a number of shops in the bazaars

near Tunday Kebab, in the maze of streets
in Chowk and in the small, traffic-free
Janpath Market, just south of MG Rd in
Hazratganj.
Sugandhco PERFUME
(www.sugandhco.com; D-4 Janpath Market;
h noon-7.30pm Mon-Sat) A family business
since 1850, the sweet-scented Sugandhco
sells attar (pure essence oil extracted from
flowers by a traditional method) in the form
of women’s perfume and men’s cologne as
well as incense sticks.
Ram Advani Bookshop BOOKS
U
MONEY
Foreign-friendly ATMs are dotted around Hazrat-
ganj. There’s also one at the train station and
the airport.
ICICI Bank (Shalimar Tower, 31/54 MG Rd,
Hazratganj; h 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat)
Changes travellers cheques (Monday to Friday
only, 10am to 5pm) and cash, and has an ATM.
POST
Main Post Office (www.indiapost.gov.in; MG
Rd; h 10am-4pm Mon-Sat) Grand Raj-era
architecture.
TOURIST INFORMATION
UP Tourism (www.up-tourism.com; 6 Tej

(Mayfair Bldg, MG Rd; h 10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) Bahadur, Sapru Marg; h 10am-5.30pm Mon-
hopp
CKNO

This Lucknow institution is worth visiting Sat) Helpful government tourist office, which
just to meet the fantastically friendly and ex- also runs Lucknow’s excellent Heritage Walk-
i ng

ceedingly knowledgeable owner, Mr Advani ing Tour. It operates a smaller kiosk (MG Rd;
W

(in his 90s!). Be aware, though, that he takes
his siestas very seriously and is rarely seen
between noon and 4pm. There’s a strong col-
lection of books on Lucknow history here as
well as some popular India-based contem-
porary literature.
88 Information
INTERNET ACCESS
Cyber Cafe (Buddha Rd; per hr ₹20; h 8am-
10pm) If you need to check in while waiting on
a train, this small cyber cafe is nearby.
h 11am-9pm) on MG Rd’s main drag.
88 Getting There & Away
AIR
The new and modern Chaudhary Charan Singh
International Airport is 15km southwest of
Lucknow. Jet Airways (www.jetairways.com;
Chaudhary Charan Sungh Airport) is one of
a number of airlines that has offices at the
airport. Daily flights serving Lucknow include
Delhi (from ₹3225), Kolkata (Calcutta; ₹3854),
Mumbai (Bombay; ₹5048) and Dubai (from
₹9845).

HANDY TRAINS FROM LUCKNOW (LKO/LJN)

DESTINATION TRAIN NO & NAME FARE (₹) DURATION (HR) DEPARTURES
Agra 13239 PNBE-Kota Exp 164/446/665 (A) 6 11.55pm
Allahabad 14210 Intercity Exp 253 (B) 4 7.30am
Faizabad 13010 Doon Exp 120/247/610 (A) 2½ 8.35am
Gorakhpur 15708 ASR-KIR Exp 146/394/610 (A) 5 12.50am
Jhansi 11016 Kushinagar Exp 150/408/610 (A) 6½ 12.40am
Kolkata (Howrah) 13006 ASR-HWH Mail 347/982/1520 (A) 20½ 10.50am
Mumbai (CST)** 12533 Pushpak Exp 426/1185/1845 24 7.45pm
(A)
New Delhi 12553 Vaishali Exp 247/662/975 (A) 8 10.25pm
Varanasi 14236 BE-BSB Exp 161/438 (C) 7½ 11.15pm

Fares: (A) sleeper/3AC/2AC, (B) AC chair class only, (C) sleeper/3AC, **leaves from Lucknow Junction

BUS
Long-distance buses leave from Alambagh bus
station, 4km southwest of the town centre.
Services include the following:
Agra Non-AC (₹237, seven hours, 5am, 7am
and 11pm); Volvo AC (₹772, six hours, 10am
and 10pm)
Allahabad Non-AC (₹152, six hours, every 30
minutes); AC (₹412, 4½ hours, 7.45am, 10am,
11.30am, 1pm, 3.15pm, 4.45pm, 6.15pm and
8.30pm)
Faizabad ₹112, three to four hours, every 30
minutes
Gorakhpur Non-AC (₹230, seven hours,
hourly); AC (₹630, seven hours, 10am, 9pm,
10pm and 11pm)
Jhansi ₹242, eight hours, 6am, 7.30am,
6.15pm, 7.15pm, 8.30pm and 10.30pm
Varanasi Non-AC (₹250, seven hours, hourly);
Volvo AC (₹623, seven hours, 8am, 3pm and
10pm)
Regular local buses (₹5) run to Alambagh bus
station from the road in front of Charbagh bus
stand (Kanpor Rd at Subhash Marg), near the
train station.
Kaiserbagh bus stand (J Narain Rd) also has
hourly services to Faizabad (₹102) and Gorak-
phur (₹210) as well as buses to Rupaidha (₹136,
seven hours, 9.30am, 11am, 7.30pm, 8.30pm,
9.30pm and 10.30pm), a rickshaw ride away
from the rarely used Nepal border crossing of
Jamunaha.
TRAIN
The two main stations, Charbagh and Lucknow
Junction, are side by side. Services for most ma-
jor destinations leave from Charbagh, including
several daily to Agra, Varanasi, Faizabad, Gora-
khpur and New Delhi. Lucknow Junction handles
the one daily train to Mumbai. Foreign traveller
help is at window 601 inside the Computerized
Reservation complex just off to your right as you
exit Charbagh.
88 Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
An autorickshaw to the airport in Amausi from
the prepaid taxi stand outside the train station
costs ₹120 and takes about 30 minutes.
LOCAL TRANSPORT
A short cycle-rickshaw ride is ₹20. From the
prepaid autorickshaw stand outside the train
station (no English sign – look for the small blue
booth with a sign reading ‘G.R.P.’ on top), a trip
to the Residency costs about ₹100, as does Bara
Imambara. Hazratganj and Mall Ave are ₹65. A
half-day (four-hour) autorickshaw tour covering
all the main sights costs ₹250. Prices do not
include a ₹5 booking fee.
381
Ayodhya
% 05278 / POP 58,000
With monkeys galore, the usual smattering
of cows and even the odd working elephant,
the relatively traffic-free streets of Ayodhya
would be an intriguing place to spend some
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal AYO
time even if it wasn’t for the religious sig-
nificance of the place. This is not only the
birthplace of Rama, and as such one of Hin-
duism’s seven holy cities, nor just the birth-
place of four of Jainism’s 24 tirthankars
(religious teachers), this is also the site of
one of modern India’s most controversial
religious disputes.
Ayodhya became tragically synonymous
with Hindu extremism in 1992, when riot-
ing Hindus tore down the Babri Masjid, a
mosque built by the Mughals in the 15th
century, which Hindus claimed stood on
the site of an earlier Rama temple, mark-
ing Lord Rama’s birthplace. Hindus built
Ram Janam Bhumi in its place. Tit-for-tat
 ett
G
reprisals soon followed, including reac-
D iHng
tionary riots across the country that led
YA A round
to more than 2000 deaths, and the prob-
lem eventually reached the High Court.
Archaeological investigations were carried
out at the site and, in September 2010, the
Allahabad High Court ruled that the site
should be split equally between three reli-
gious groups; two Hindu, one Muslim. The
Muslim group, Sunni Waqf Board, appealed
parts of the ruling but the Supreme Court
of India ruled in favor of the Allahabad rul-
ing in 2011. Since the verdict, things have
remained relatively calm. Meanwhile, secu-
rity around the Ram Janam Bhumi remains
incredibly tight.
The slightly larger town of Faizabad, 7km
away, is the jumping-off point for Ayodhya
and where you’ll find more accommoda-
tion. From the Faizabad bus stand, turn left
onto the main road where you’ll find tempos
(₹12, 20 minutes) to Ayodhya, where you can
make a walking tour of the temples.
1 Sights
Hanumangarhi TEMPLE
(h dawn-dusk) This is one of the town’s most
popular temples, and is the closest of the
major temples here to the main road. Walk
up the 76 steps to the ornate carved gateway
and the fortresslike outer walls, and join
the throng inside offering prasad (temple-
blessed food).
3 82
Dashrath Bhavan TEMPLE
(h dawn-dusk) A further 200m up the side
road from Hanumangarhi, this temple is
approached through a colourful entrance-
way. The atmosphere inside is peaceful, with
musicians playing and orange-clad sadhus
reading scriptures.
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal A
Kanak Bhavan TEMPLE
(Palace of Gold; h 8.30-noon & 4.30-8pm) A few
minutes’ walk straight on from Dashrath
Bhavan is this impressive, ancient but often
rebuilt palace-cum-temple.
Ram Janam Bhumi TEMPLE
(h 7-11am & 3-6pm) If you turn left at
Dashrath Bhavan, when coming from Ha-
numangarhi, you soon reach the highly con-
tentious temple that marks the birthplace
of Rama. Security here is staggering (think
crossing from West Bank into Israel!). You
must first show your passport then leave all
belongings apart from your passport and
money (even your belt!) in nearby lockers.
 lLL
S
You are then searched several times before
eep
A HiAng
being accompanied through a caged cor-
ridor that leads to a spot 20m away from
B A&
a makeshift tent of a shrine, which marks
D E at i ng
Rama’s birthplace.
Ramkatha Museum MUSEUM
(% 9452172060; h 10.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun,
performances 6-9pm) F A 10-minute walk
on the other side of the main road from the
temples in this area brings you to Ramkatha
Museum, a large, unsigned in English yel-
low-and-red building with paintings and an-
cient sculptures. Every evening except Mon-
day the museum hosts free performances of
the Ram Lila (a dramatic re-enactment of
the battle between Lord Ram and Ravan, as
described in the Hindu epic, the Ramayana).
Walk about 500m or so along the main road
deeper into Ayodhya, turn right at the police
station across from Akash Cycle Company,
and it’s another 500m or so on your right.
4 Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Shane Avadh HOTEL $
(% 223586; shane_avadh@yahoo.com; Civil Lines,
Faizabad; s/d from ₹600/700, without bathroom
from ₹350/400, with AC from ₹990/1300; a )
There’s a huge range of rooms at this well-
run establishment in Faizabad, and even
the cheapest ones are neat and spacious, if
a little basic. There’s also a good restaurant
(mains ₹70 to ₹170). This place is popular so
try to book ahead.
Hotel Krishna Palace HOTEL $
(% 221367; hotelkrishnapalace@gmail.com; Faiza-
bad; s/d from ₹500/700, with AC from ₹990/1250,
restaurant mains ₹70-200, bar beer ₹90; a ) If
Shane Avadh is full, this lowlit white mon-
olith of a hotel is a decent alternative in
Faizabad. Also has a moody restaurant and
a small basement bar.
oAwantika MULTICUISINE $
(Civil Lines, Faizabad; mains ₹75-170; h 11am-
10.30pm) Clean and hip, this out-of-place res-
taurant does a seriously good all-veg menu
that runs the gamut from Chinese to Ital-
ian to Indian. The special thali (₹165) was a
real treat and it’s all set to trendy tunes in a
funky lounge atmosphere.
88 Information
There’s an HDFC Bank ATM 100m from Hotel
Krishna Palace. Cyber Zone (Civil Lines, Faiza-
bad; per hr ₹20; h 10am-8.30pm) is an internet
cafe just past Hotel Shane Avadh.
88 Getting There & Away
From Faizabad bus stand, buses run to Lucknow
(₹112, three hours), Gorakhpur (₹124, five
hours) and Allahabad (₹127, five hours) every 15
to 20 minutes.
Daily trains include Lucknow (13307 Gangas-
utlej Express, sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹120/247/610,
four hours, 10.55am), Varanasi (13010 Doon
Express, sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹120/317/610, five
hours, 11.10am) and Delhi (14205 Faizabad-Delhi
Express, ₹252/703/1065, 12 hours, 9.30pm).
A cycle-rickshaw from the bus stand to the
train station is ₹20.
Allahabad
% 0532 / POP 1.2 MILLION
For all its importance in Hindu mythology,
Indian history and modern politics, Alla-
habad is a surprisingly relaxed city that of-
fers plenty in terms of sights, but little in the
way of in-yer-face hassle.
Brahma, the Hindu god of creation, is be-
lieved to have landed on earth in Allahabad,
or Prayag as it was originally known, and
to have called it the king of all pilgrimage
centres. Indeed, Sangam, a river confluence
on the outskirts of the city, is the most cele-
brated of India’s four Kumbh Mela locations.
The vast riverbanks here attract tens of mil-
lions of pilgrims every six years for either
the Kumbh Mela or the Ardh (Half) Mela,
but every year there is a smaller Magh Mela.

Of more immediate interest to casual visi-
tors are Allahabad’s grand Raj-era buildings,
its Mughal fort and tombs, and the historic
legacy of the Nehru family.
Allahabad’s Civil Lines is a district of broad
avenues, Raj-era bungalows, hotels, restau-
rants and coffee shops. The Civil Lines bus
stand – the main bus terminal – is also here.
This area is divided from Chowk, the crowd-
ed, older part of town, by the railway line.
Sangam is 4km southeast of the city centre.
1 Sights & Activities
oSangam SACRED SITE
This is the particularly auspicious point
where two of India’s holiest rivers, the Gan-
ges and the Yamuna, meet one of Hindu-
ism’s mythical rivers, the Saraswati. All year
round, pilgrims row boats out to this holy
spot, but their numbers increase dramatical-
ly during the annual Magh Mela (Allahabad;
h Jan-Mar), a six-week festival held between
January and March, which culminates in
six communal ‘holy dips’. Every 12 years the
massive Kumbh Mela takes place here, at-
tracting millions of people, while the Ardh
Mela (Half Mela) is held here every six years.
In the early 1950s, 350 pilgrims were
killed in a stampede to the soul-cleansing
water (an incident re-created vividly in
Vikram Seth’s immense novel A Suitable
Boy). The last Ardh Mela, in 2007, attracted
more than 70 million people – considered
to be the largest-ever human gathering un-
til the 2013 Kumbh Mela, which attracted a
guestimated 32 million on Mauni Amavasya,
the main bathing day, and 100 million across
the 55-day festival; expect equally astonish-
ing numbers at the next Allahabad Kumbh
Mela in 2025.
Old boat hands will row you out to the
sacred confluence for around ₹15 per person
(hard-bargaining Indian) or ₹50 (hard-bar-
gaining foreigner), or ₹400 to ₹500 per boat.
Around the corner from Sangam (skirt
the riverbank around the front of Akbar’s
Fort) are the Saraswati and Nehru Ghats,
home to a nightly aarti (an auspicious light-
ing of lamps/candles).
oAkbar’s Fort & Patalpuri Temple FORT
(Patalpuri temple admission by donation; h Patalpu-
ri temple 7am-5pm) Built by the Mughal Em-
peror Akbar, this 16th-century fort on the
northern bank of the Yamuna has massive
walls with three gateways flanked by towers.
Most of it is occupied by the Indian army
383
and cannot be visited, but a small door in
the eastern wall by Sangam leads to one part
you can enter, the underground Patalpuri
Temple. This unique temple is crowded
with all sorts of idols – pick up some coins
from the change dealers outside so you can
leave small offerings as you go. You may be
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal A
pressured into giving ₹10 to ₹100 at some
shrines. A few coins are perfectly acceptable.
Outside the temple – though its roots can
be seen beneath ground – is the Undying
Banyan Tree from which pilgrims used to
leap to their deaths, believing it would liber-
ate them from the cycle of rebirth.
oKhusru Bagh PARK
(Mughal tombs admission free; h Mughal tombs
dawn-dusk) This intriguing park, surrounded
by huge walls, contains four highly impres-
sive Mughal tombs. One is that of Prince
Khusru, the eldest son of Emperor Jehangir,
who tried to assassinate his father but was
blinded and imprisoned, finally dying in
 iLL
S
1622. If Khusru’s coup had succeeded, his
ghts
brother, Shah Jahan, would not have become
A H A B&AAct
emperor and the Taj Mahal would not exist.
A second tomb belongs to Shah Begum,
Khusru’s mother (Jehangir’s first wife), who
D i v i t i es
committed suicide in 1603 with an opium
overdose because of the ongoing feud be-
tween her son and his father. Between these
two, a third, particularly attractive tomb
was constructed by Nesa Begum, Khusru’s
sister, although was never actually used as a
tomb. A smaller structure, called Tamolon’s
Tomb, stands to the west of the others, but
its origin is unknown.
oAnand Bhavan MUSEUM
(Indian/foreigner ₹10/50; h 9.30am-5pm Tue-
Sun) This picturesque two-storey building
is a shrine to the Nehru family, which has
DIP DATES
The following are the auspicious bath-
ing dates for upcoming mela to be held
at Sangam in Allahabad.
2014 2015 2016 2017
14 Jan 5 Jan 15 Jan 12 Jan
16 Jan 14 Jan 24 Jan 14 Jan
30 Jan 20 Jan 8 Feb 27 Jan
4 Feb 24 Jan 12 Feb 1 Feb
14 Feb 3 Feb 22 Feb 10 Feb
28 Feb 17 Feb 7 Mar 24 Feb
 384
 iLL
S
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal A D i v i t i es
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Allahabad
æ Top Sights
1 Akbar's Fort & Patalpuri Temple ..........G4
2 Anand Bhavan ....................................... E1
3 Khusru Bagh..........................................A3
4 Sangam .................................................G4
æ Sights
5 Allahabad Museum ............................... D1
6 Nesa Begum's Tomb ............................. A3
7 Prince Khusru's Tomb .......................... A3
8 Shah Begum's Tomb ............................. A3
9 Tamolon's Tomb ...................................A3
Undying Banyan Tree..................... (see 1)
ÿ Sleeping
10 Grand Continental ................................. B1
11 Hotel Prayag..........................................A3
12 Hotel Valentines ....................................B2
13 Royal Hotel ............................................B2
ú Eating
14 El Chico..................................................B2
produced five generations of leading politi-
cians from Motilal Nehru to the latest po-
litical figure, Rahul Gandhi. This stately
home is where Mahatma Gandhi, Jawaha-
rlal Nehru and others successfully planned
the overthrow of the British Raj. It is full
of books, personal effects and photos from
those stirring times. Indira Gandhi was
married here in 1942. The run-down Swaraj
Bhaven next door is where former Prime
Minister Indira Gandhi was born.
Allahabad Museum MUSEUM
(Kamla Nehru Marg; Indian/foreigner ₹5/100;
h 10.30am-4.45pm Tue-Sun) This extensive mu-
seum in the grounds of a pleasant park has ar-
chaeological and Nehru family items, modern
paintings, miniatures and ancient sculptures.
4 Sleeping
Many of Allahabad’s hotels got a major
makeover for the 2013 Kumbh Mela, so ex-
pect better-than-average conditions across
the board.
Royal Hotel HOTEL $
(% 2427201; royalhotel.666@rediffmail.com; Na-
wab Yusef Rd; dm ₹200, s/d from ₹450/650; iW )
This wonderful old building above a small
bustling market near the train station used
to be royal stables but was converted into a
hotel by the king of Kalakankar, a former
princely state, after he was refused entry
into a British-run hotel nearby. It’s basic
and very run down, but has bags of char-
385
El Chico Cafe ................................ (see 14)
15 Indian Coffee House ............................. B2
16 Kamdhenu Sweets................................ B2
17 Shahenshah .......................................... B2
û Drinking & Nightlife
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal A
Patiyala Peg Bar........................... (see 10)
þ Shopping
18 Vinayak City Centre ...............................B1
ï Information
A23 Sewa Cyber Cafe ...................(see 17)
19 Apollo Clinic .......................................... B2
20 UP Tourism ........................................... C2
ï Transport
21 Civil Lines Bus Stand ............................ C2
22 Tempo & Autorickshaw Stand ............. A3
23 Zero Road Bus Stand............................ C3
 lLL
S eep
acter and is foreign-traveller at the ready.
A HiAng
The rooms (with 6m-high ceilings) and their
bathrooms are absolutely enormous.
BAD
Hotel Prayag HOTEL $
(% 2656416; Noorullah Rd; s/d from ₹300/450,
without bathroom ₹225/275, with AC ₹900/990;
aiW ) A stone’s throw south of the train
station, this sprawling, well-run place is
helpful and boasts an internet cafe (per hour
₹20), an ATM and a funky restaurant on
the premises. There’s a wide variety of old-
fashioned, basic rooms but staff are friendly
and will even help negotiate autorickshaws.
The downside of the wi-fi is it works in the
lobby cafe only, the upside is they don’t seem
overly concerned about charging for it.
o Kanchan Villa HOMESTAY $$
(% 983863111; www.allahabadbnb.com; 64, Luker-
ganj; s/d ₹2250/2750, apt ₹4250, all incl breakfast;
aiW ) Ivan, a single malt connoisseur, and
his wife, Purnima, are your South Indian
Christian hosts at this fabulous homestay
that offers a window into a rarely seen side
of Indian culture. In a historic home push-
ing 90 years old, the five rooms are decked
out with period furnishings (Bengali is the
best) and breakfast is on a lush, 2nd-floor
patio. They’ll cook for you as well, serving
up fresh kebabs from the outdoor tandoor,
for example, and you’ll feel right at home in
the living room/bar. Pickup and drops-offs
included; otherwise it’s a short ₹20 cycle-
rickshaw ride from the train station.
3 86
Hotel Valentines HOTEL $$
(% 2560030; www.hotelvalentines.com; 7/3/2A
Clive Rd; r incl breakfast from ₹2500; aW ) Not as
romantic as the name suggests, but smart,
comfortable rooms have TV, AC, carpeted
floors and big bathrooms with towels and
toiletries provided.
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal A
Grand Continental HOTEL $$$
(% 2260631; www.birhotel.com; Sardar Patel Marg;
s/d from ₹3935/5058, ste ₹7306, all incl breakfast;
a i W s ) Go for the 17 newer standard
rooms on the pool side, with rust-sunset
curtains and wildly contrasting, brightly
colored bathrooms, and you’re getting a
bangup room as nice as some five-stars for a
fraction of the price. Staying here means you
can also use the delightful swimming pool,
housed in a beautiful open-air marble court-
yard. There’s also a good-quality restaurant
and a bar where evening ghazal perform-
ances are held. Wi-fi is free. It’s across the
street from the modern Vinayak City Centre
 at
E
LL iAng
shopping mall.
5 Eating
HABAD
Shahenshah INDIAN $
(18/A MG Marg; mains ₹40-115; h 11am-10pm)
Watch young chefs frying up their creations
from a couple of stalls set around a half
open-air seating area with plastic tables and
chairs and a high corrugated iron roof. This
is no-nonsense, cheap eating, but it’s popular
with the locals so there’s a nice atmosphere.
The menu includes uttapam, paratha (flaky
bread made with ghee and cooked on a hot-
plate), a few Chinese dishes, pizza and some
absolutely cracking dosa. The fruit beer isn’t
alcoholic. Don’t miss it!
Indian Coffee House CAFE $
(15 MG Marg; coffee from ₹18, mains ₹20-45;
h 8am-9pm) Rickshaw drivers call this large,
HANDY TRAINS FROM ALLAHABAD (ALD)
DESTINATION TRAIN NO & NAME
Agra 12403 ALD MTJ Exp
Kolkata (Howrah) 12312 Kalka Mail
Lucknow 14209 ALD-LKO
Intercity
New Delhi 12559 Shiv Ganga Exp
Satna 13201 RJPB LTT EXP
Varanasi 15017 Gorakhpur Exp
Fares: (A) sleeper/3AC/2AC, (B) AC chair only
airy 50-year-old coffee hall simply ‘Coffee
House’ (like the French call them fries). It’s
a top choice for a budget breakfast, with
waiters in fan-tailed headgear serving up
delicious South Indian fare – dosa, idli, ut-
tapam – as well as eggs, omelettes and toast.
The annex closest to the road is often closed,
but the main building set back from the
street should be open.
Kamdhenu Sweets SWEETS $
(MG Marg; snacks ₹10-70; h 9.30am-10pm) Very
popular snack shop selling delicious home-
baked sweets (from ₹320 per box) as well as
cakes, samosas, sandwiches and ice cream.
oEl Chico MULTICUISINE $$
(24 MG Marg; mains ₹165-375; h 9am-11pm) The
refined original restaurant serves up abso-
lutely wonderful Indian (the chicken chilli
garlic kebab is every bit as delicious as it
sounds), tasty-looking Chinese and Conti-
nental fare along with coffee in pewter ca-
rafes. Next door, El Chico Cafe (24/28 MG
Marg; items ₹12-425; h 10am-11pm; W ) tempts
diners downstairs with takeaway ice creams,
cakes, cookies and savoury snacks; and up-
stairs, a shockingly chic fusion cafe that’s
wildly but thankfully out of place. Here,
you’ll cure your homesick in a heartbeat
among a forward-thinking Indian crowd.
Think big breakfasts (cinnamon pancakes,
waffles, bacon and egg pizza and espresso);
and paninis, wood-fired pizzas and more so-
phisticated fusion fare throughout the day.
6 Drinking & Nightlife
Patiyala Peg Bar BAR
(Grand Continental Hotel, Sardar Patel Marg;
h 11am-11pm) The most interesting bar for
tourists has live ghazal music nightly from
7pm to 10.30pm
DURATION
FARE (₹) (HR) DEPARTURES
220/582/855 (A) 7½ 11.30pm
318/872/1315 (A) 14 5.30pm
253 (B) 4½ 3.20pm
277/750/1115 (A) 9 10.30pm
120/298/610 (A) 4½ 8.25am
120/252/610 (A) 4 8.35am

88 Information
ATMs dot the Civil Lines area.
A23 Sewa Cyber Cafe (18/A MG Marg; per
hr ₹20; h 10am-9pm) Inside the Shahenshah
restaurant complex.
Apollo Clinic (28B MG Marg; h 24hr) A mod-
ern private medical facility/24-hour pharmacy.
Post Office (www.indiapost.gov.in; Sarojini
Naidu Marg; h 9am-1.30pm & 2-4pm Mon-Sat)
UP Tourism (www.up-tourism.com; 35 MG
Marg; h 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) At the Rahi
Ilawart Tourist Bungalow. Very helpful.
88 Getting There & Away
AIR
Allahabad Airport is 15km west of Allahabad.
Air India (www.airindia.com) has daily flights
to Delhi from ₹3239, except on Sunday some
months of the year. An autorickshaw to the air-
port costs ₹350 to ₹400 and taxis ₹600.
BUS
From the Civil Lines bus stand (MG Marg)
regular non-AC buses run to Varanasi (₹109, 3½
hours, every 15 minutes), Faizabad (₹130, five
hours, every 30 minutes) and Gorakhpur (₹216,
eight hours, every 30 minutes). There are 19
comfortable AC buses running to Lucknow (₹412,
five hours, 5.30am to 8.30pm) daily. To get to
Delhi or Agra, change in Lucknow, or take a train.
For buses to Chitrakut every two hours (₹101,
four hours, 6am to 10pm), head to Zero Road
bus stand (Zero Rd).
TRAIN
Allahabad Junction is the main station. A few
daily trains run to Lucknow, Varanasi, Delhi, Agra
and Kolkata. Frequent trains also run to Satna,
from where you can catch buses to Khajuraho.
88 Getting Around
Cycle-rickshaws (₹10 for a short trip of 1km
to 2km but be prepared to go to war for it) are
plentiful. The train station is your best bet
for autorickshaws. A return autorickshaw to
Sangam should cost around ₹200. Consider
hiring one for half a day (₹400, four hours) to
take in more of the sights. Vikrams (large shared
autorickshaws) hang about on the south side of
the train station. Destinations include Zero Road
Bus Stand (₹8) and Sangam (₹16).
Chitrakut
% 05198 / POP 49,000
Known as a mini Varanasi because of its
many temples and ghats, this small, peace-
ful town on the banks of the River Manda-
kini is the stuff of Hindu legends. It is here
3 87
that Hinduism’s principal trinity – Brahma,
Vishnu and Shiva – took on their incarna-
tions. It is also the place where Lord Rama
is believed to have spent 11½ years of his
14-year exile after being banished from his
birthplace in Ayodhya at the behest of a jeal-
ous stepmother.
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal C
Today Chitrakut attracts throngs of pil-
grims, giving the area a strong religious
quality, particularly by Ram Ghat, the town’s
centre of activity, and at the holy hill of Ka-
madgiri, 2km away.
Dozens, sometimes hundreds, of devotees
descend onto Ram Ghat to take holy dips at
dawn before returning at the end of the day
for the evening aarti. Colourful rowboats
(with rabbits!) wait here to take you across
to the opposite bank (₹20), which is actually
in Madhya Pradesh, or to scenic spots along
the river. The 2km-trip to the Glass Temple
(₹100 return per person, ₹300 minimum), a
building covered in religious mosaics made
 H I T R A K U iTon
Informat
with thousands of pieces of coloured glass,
is popular. During the day, many people
make their way to Kamadgiri (₹5 by tem-
po), a hill revered as the holy embodiment
of Lord Rama. A 5km-circuit (90 minutes)
around the base of the hill takes you past
prostrating pilgrims, innumerable monkeys
and temples galore.
The most enjoyable place to stay in
Chitrakut is Pitra Smiviti Vishramgrah
(% 9450223214; varun.ckt@gmail.com; Ram Ghat;
r ₹300-500, without bathroom ₹200). Rooms
built just in front of Bada Math, a 300-year-
old red-stone palace, are very basic, but lead
out onto a huge shared balcony overlook-
ing Ram Ghat. Look for the word ‘Lodge’
painted on the balcony. There are more com-
fortable rooms at UP Tourist Bungalow
(rahitbchitrakoot@up-tourism.com; dm ₹150, s/d
with AC from ₹900/950; a ), which also has a
distinctly average restaurant (mains ₹35-130;
h 6am-midnight), but Chitrakot isn’t exactly a
culinary hotspot.
Shared minivans and tempos ply the
10km route from the train station to Ram
Ghat (₹10), passing the bus stand (2km from
the train station) and the UP Tourist Bunga-
low (1km before Ram Ghat).
With the exception of buses to Allahabad
(₹95, four hours, every 30 minutes 5am to
9.30pm), buses in Chitrakut are notoriously
unreliable. There should be three per day to
Varanasi (₹190, eight hours, noon, 12.30pm
and 1pm) but they don’t always materialise –
388
you’re better off changing in Allahabad.
There are no bus services to Khajuraho.
Trains tend to pass through Chitrakut
at stupid o’clock. Ones you may consider
anyway: Agra (12189 Mahakaushal Express,
sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹226/598/885, nine hours,
11pm), Varanasi (11107 Bundelkhand Ex-
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal JS
press, ₹143/385/610, seven hours, 3.35am)
and Khajuraho (21108 BSB-KURJ Link E,
sleeper/3AC ₹120/308, four hours, 1.01am
Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday).
Jhansi
This nondescript town is in fact in Uttar
Pradesh. The town is famous for its link to
the Rani of Jhansi, a key player in the 1857
War of Independence, and it is commonly
used as a gateway to Orchha, Khajuraho and
Gwalior. If you’re here, check out Jhansi
Fort (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100, video ₹25; h dawn-
dusk), built in 1613 by Maharaja Bir Singh
H
Deo of Orchha.
l eep
Madhya Pradesh Tourism (www.mptour-
A N SiIng & E at i ng
ism.com; h 10am-5pm) has an information
centre on Platform 1 at the train station,
which can make real-time hotel reservations
in Khajuraho and Orchha.
4 Sleeping & Eating
There are a number of cheap places around
the bus station where you can grab a snack
on the run and a great multicuisine restau-
rant at Hotel Samrat.
Hotel Samrat HOTEL $
(% 05102444943; Elite Rd; s/d from ₹600/675,
with AC from ₹1250/1400; a ) Worsening for
wear but friendly and well-run, this hotel,
walking distance from the train station, will
do for a night. All rooms have TV and bath-
room although the cheaper ones have squat
toilets. There’s no beer in Red Tomato, the
hotel’s excellent restaurant, but they will
serve you in your room.
HANDY TRAINS FROM JHANSI (JHS)
FARE (₹)
DESTINATION TRAIN NO & NAME (SLEEPER/3AC/2AC)
Agra 12137 Punjab Mail 147/368/640
Delhi 12615 Grand Trunk Exp 204/538/790
Gwalior 12137 Punjab Mail 140/249/640
Mumbai 12138 Punjab Mail 379/1047/1610
Varanasi 11107 Bundelkhand Exp 229/638/1215
88 Getting There & Away
BUS
Buses leave from the bus stand for Khajuraho
(₹119, five to six hours, 11.30am, 3pm and
7.30pm); Chitrakut (₹195, three hours, 8am);
and Gwalior (₹105, three hours, 6.30am, 7.15am,
12.30pm, 2pm, 3.30pm, 5.30pm, 6.30pm and
8.30pm).
TRAIN
Several daily trains run to Gwalior, Agra and
Delhi and there’s a thrice-weekly fast train to
Khajuraho.
Varanasi
% 0542 / POP 1.4 MILLION
Brace yourself. You’re about to enter one of
the most blindingly colourful, unrelentingly
chaotic and unapologetically indiscreet
places on earth. Varanasi takes no prisoners.
But if you’re ready for it, this may just turn
out to be your favourite stop of all.
Also known at various times in history as
Kashi (City of Life) and Benares, this is one
of the world’s oldest continually inhabited
cities and is regarded as one of Hinduism’s
seven holy cities. Pilgrims come to the ghats
lining the River Ganges here to wash away
a lifetime of sins in the sacred waters or to
cremate their loved ones. It’s a particularly
auspicious place to die, since expiring here
offers moksha (liberation from the cycle
of birth and death), making Varanasi the
beating heart of the Hindu universe. Most
visitors agree it’s a magical place, but it’s
not for the faint-hearted. Here the most
intimate rituals of life and death take place
in public and the sights, sounds and smells
in and around the ghats – not to mention
the almost constant attention from touts –
can be overwhelming. Persevere. Varanasi
is unique, and a walk along the ghats or a
boat ride on the river will live long in the
memory.
DURATION (HR) DEPARTURE
3½ 2.30pm
6½ 11.42pm
1½ 2.30pm
19 12.35pm
12½ 10.30pm

The old city of Varanasi is situated along
the western bank of the Ganges and extends
back from the riverbank ghats in a labyrinth
of alleys called galis that are too narrow for
traffic. They can be disorienting, but the
popular hotels and restaurants are usually
signposted and, however lost you become,
you will eventually end up at a ghat and
get your bearings. You can walk all the way
along the ghats, apart from during and im-
mediately after the monsoon, when the river
level is too high.
Most places of interest, and much of the
accommodation, are in the old city. Behind
the station is the peaceful Cantonment area,
home to most of the top-end hotels.
History
Thought to date back to around 1200 BC,
Varanasi really rose to prominence in the
8th century AD, when Shankaracharya, a
reformer of Hinduism, established Shiva
worship as the principal sect. The Afghans
destroyed Varanasi around AD 1300, after
laying waste to nearby Sarnath, but the
fanatical Mughal emperor Aurangzeb was
the most destructive, looting and destroy-
ing almost all of the temples. The old city of
Varanasi may look antique, but few build-
ings are more than a couple of hundred
years old.
1 Sights
oGhats GHATS
Spiritually enlightening and fantastically
photogenic, Varanasi is at its brilliant best
by the ghats, the long stretch of steps lead-
ing down to the water on the western bank
of the Ganges. Most are used for bathing but
there are also several ‘burning ghats’ where
bodies are cremated in public. The main
one is Manikarnika: you’ll often see funeral
processions threading their way through the
backstreets to this ghat. The best time to
visit the ghats is at dawn when the river is
bathed in a mellow light as pilgrims come to
perform puja to the rising sun, and at sunset
when the main ganga aarti (river worship
ceremony) takes place at Dashashwamedh
Ghat.
About 80 ghats border the river, but the
main group extends from Assi Ghat, near
the university, northwards to Raj Ghat, near
the road and rail bridge.
A boat trip along the river provides the
perfect introduction, although for most of
3 89
the year the water level is low enough for
you to walk freely along the whole length of
the ghats. It’s a world-class ‘people-watch-
ing’ stroll as you mingle with the fascinating
mixture of people who come to the Ganges
not only for a ritual bath but also to wash
clothes, do yoga, offer blessings, sell flowers,
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal VA
get a massage, play cricket, wash their buf-
faloes, improve their karma by giving to beg-
gars or simply hang around.
¨¨Southern Stretch
oAssi Ghat (Map p394), the furthest south
of the main ghats, and one of the biggest,
is particularly important as the River Assi
meets the Ganges near here and pilgrims
come to worship a Shiva lingam (phallic
image of Shiva) beneath a peepul tree. Eve-
nings are particularly lively, as the ghat’s
vast concreted area fills up with hawkers
and entertainers. It’s a popular starting
point for boat trips and there are some ex-
cellent hotels here.
 i ghts
S
Nearby Tulsi Ghat, named after a 16th-
RANASI
century Hindu poet, has fallen down to-
wards the river but in the month of Kar-
tika (October/November) a festival devoted
to Krishna is celebrated here. Next along,
Bachraj Ghat has three Jain temples. A
small Shiva temple and a 19th-century man-
sion built by Nepali royalty sit back from
Shivala Ghat, built by the local maharaja of
Benares. The Dandi Ghat is used by ascetics
known as Dandi Panths, and nearby is the
very popular Hanuman Ghat.
Harishchandra Ghat is a cremation ghat,
smaller and secondary in importance to
Manikarnika but one of the oldest ghats in
Varanasi. Above it, Kedar Ghat has a shrine
popular with Bengalis and South Indians.
¨¨Old City Stretch
Varanasi’s liveliest and most colourful ghat
is Dashashwamedh Ghat (Map p394), eas-
ily reached at the end of the main road
from Godaulia Crossing. The name in-
dicates that Brahma sacrificed (medh) 10
(das) horses (aswa) here. In spite of the
oppressive boat owners, flower sellers and
touts trying to drag you off to a silk shop,
it’s a wonderful place to linger and people-
watch while soaking up the atmosphere.
Every evening at 7pm an elaborate ganga
aarti ceremony with puja, fire and dance
is staged here.
Just south of here, Someswar Ghat (Lord
of the Moon Ghat) is said to be able to heal
diseases. Munshi Ghat is very photogenic,
390

6
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while Ahalya Bai’s Ghat is named after the century. The northern corner of the ghat has
female Maratha ruler of Indore. a fine stone balcony.
Just north of Dashashwamedh Ghat, Raja oManikarnika Ghat (Map p394), the
Man Singh’s Man Mandir Ghat was built in main burning ghat, is the most auspicious
1600, but was poorly restored in the 19th place for a Hindu to be cremated. Dead
bodies are handled by outcasts known as

Varanasi
æ Sights
1 Alamgir Mosque ....................................D3
2 Benares Hindu University .....................B6
3 Bharat Kala Bhavan ..............................B6
4 Ramnagar Fort & Museum ...................D6
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
Aarna Spa......................................(see 11)
5 International Centre..............................B6
6 Kiran ..................................................... C5
7 Learn for Life Society............................B3
UP Tourism Office ........................ (see 18)
ÿ Sleeping
8 Gateway Hotel Ganges.......................... A1
9 Homestay .............................................B3
10 Hotel Clarks Varanasi ........................... A1
11 Hotel Surya............................................ A1
ú Eating
Canton Royale ...............................(see 11)
doms, and are carried through the alley-
ways of the old city to the holy Ganges on
a bamboo stretcher swathed in cloth. The
corpse is doused in the Ganges prior to cre-
mation. Huge piles of firewood are stacked
along the top of the ghat; every log is care-
fully weighed on giant scales so that the
price of cremation can be calculated. Each
type of wood has its own price, sandalwood
being the most expensive. There is an art
to using just enough wood to completely
incinerate a corpse. You can watch crema-
tions but always show reverence by behav-
ing respectfully. Photography is strictly
prohibited.
You’re almost guaranteed to be led by a
priest, or more likely a guide, to the upper
floor of a nearby building from where you
can watch cremations taking place, and then
asked for a donation (in dollars) towards the
cost of wood. If you don’t want to make a
donation, don’t follow them.
Above the steps here is a tank known as
the Manikarnika Well. Parvati is said to have
dropped her earring here and Shiva dug the
tank to recover it, filling the depression with
his sweat. The Charanpaduka, a slab of
stone between the well and the ghat, bears
footprints made by Vishnu. Privileged VIPs
are cremated at the Charanpaduka, which
also has a temple dedicated to Ganesh.
Dattatreya Ghat bears the footprint of
the Brahmin saint of that name in a small
temple nearby. Scindhia Ghat was original-
391
12 Eden Restaurant ................................... B2
Varuna Restaurant ........................ (see 8)
û Drinking & Nightlife
Mango Verra ................................. (see 11)
13 Open Hand ............................................C5
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal VA
Prinsep Bar .................................... (see 8)
þ Shopping
14 Mehrotra Silk Factory .......................... D2
15 Mehrotra Silk Factory........................... B2
16 Shri Gandhi Ashram
Khadi .................................................. B5
ï Information
17 Axis Bank ATM......................................C5
18 Foreign Tourist Centre ......................... A2
19 Heritage Hospital..................................C5
20 ICICI Bank ATM......................................A1
21 State Bank of India ................................A1
UP Tourism .................................. (see 18)
 i ghts
S
ly built in 1830, but was so huge and mag-
RANASI
nificent that it collapsed into the river and
had to be rebuilt.
¨¨Northern Stretch
Continuing north from Scindhia Ghat, you
soon reach Ram Ghat, which was built by
a maharaja of Jaipur. Just beyond it Panch-
ganga Ghat, as its name indicates, is where
five rivers are supposed to meet. Dominat-
ing the ghat is Aurangzeb’s smaller mosque,
also known as the Alamgir Mosque (Map
p390), which he built on the site of a large
Vishnu temple. Gai Ghat has a figure of a
cow made of stone. Trilochan Ghat has two
turrets emerging from the river, and the wa-
ter between them is especially holy.
oVishwanath Temple HINDU TEMPLE
(Golden Temple; Map p394) There are temples
at almost every turn in Varanasi, but this is
the most famous of the lot. It is dedicated to
Vishveswara – Shiva as lord of the universe.
The current temple was built in 1776 by Ah-
alya Bai of Indore; the 800kg of gold plating
on the tower and dome was supplied by Ma-
haraja Ranjit Singh of Lahore 50 years later.
The area is full of soldiers because of se-
curity issues and communal tensions. Bags,
cameras, mobile phones, pens or any other
electronic device must be deposited in lock-
ers (₹20) before you enter the alleyway it’s
in. Non-Hindus are not allowed inside the
temple itself, although this is not always
392
strictly enforced – bring your original pass-
port (not a copy) if you want to enter.
On the northern side of Vishwanath Tem-
ple is the Gyan Kupor Well (Well of Knowl-
edge). The faithful believe drinking its water
leads to a higher spiritual plane, though
they are prevented from doing so by a strong
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal VA
and palace, on the eastern bank of the Gan-
ges, isn’t worth coming out to if you only
have a few days in Varanasi, but it is a beau-
tiful place to watch the sun set over the river.
It also houses an eccentric museum. There
are vintage American cars, jewel-encrusted
sedan chairs, a superb weaponry section and

security screen. Non-Hindus are also not al-
lowed to enter here, and here the rule is en-
forced more strictly.
Benares Hindu University HISTORIC SITE
(BHU; Map p390; www.bhu.ac.in) Long regarded
as a centre of learning, Varanasi’s tradition
of top-quality education continues today at
Benares Hindu University, established in
1916. The wide tree-lined streets and park-
land of the 5-sq-km campus offer a peace-
ful atmosphere a world away from the city
outside. On campus is Bharat Kala Bhavan
(Map p390; % 2369227; Indian/foreigner ₹10/100,
camera ₹50; h 10.30am-4.30pm Jul-Apr, 7.30am-
1pm May-Jun, closed Sun), a roomy museum
 R iAvNi tAiSes
Act
an extremely unusual astrological clock. The
current maharaja, Anant Narayan Singh –
still known in these parts as the Maharaja
of Benares despite such royal titles being
officially abolished in 1971 – continues his
family tradition of attending the annual
month-long Ram Lila drama festival (Vara-
nasi; h Sep/Oct) held in the streets behind the
fort.
Boats operate a shuttle service across
the river (₹20 return, 10 minutes) between
5am and 8pm, but from November to June,
you can also cross on a somewhat steady
pontoon bridge. A new bridge, under
contruction at time of writing, means most

folks will just drive across. A boat all the

with a wonderful collection of miniature way back to Dashashwamedh Ghat is ₹200
paintings, as well as 12th-century palm-leaf to ₹300.
manuscripts, sculptures and local history
displays. 2 Activities
I

Ramnagar Fort & Museum MUSEUM It’s worth an early rise two of your mornings
(Map p390; museum Indian/foreigner ₹20/150; in Varanasi, one to take in the action on a
h 10-5pm) This crumbling 17th-century fort river boat trip and another to experience the

THE VARANASI SHAKEDOWN

If you thought the touts and rickshaw-wallahs were annoying in Agra, wait till you get to
Varanasi. The attention here, particularly around the ghats and the Old City, is incredi-
ble: you will have to put up with persistent offers from touts and drivers of ‘cheapest and
best’ boat trips, guides, tour operators, travel agents, silk shops and money changers (to
name a few). Take it in good humour but politely refuse.
Words to live by in Varanasi:
¨¨Don’t take photos at the ‘burning’ ghats and resist offers to ‘follow me for a better
view’, where you’ll be pressured for money and possibly be placed in an uncomfortable
situation.
¨¨Do not go to any shop with a guide or autorickshaw driver. Be firm and don’t do it. Ever.
You will pay 40% to 60% more for your item due to insane commissions and you will
be passively encouraging this practice. Do yourself a favor and walk there; or have your
ride drop you a block away.
¨¨Imposter stores are rampant in Varanasi, usually spelled one letter off or sometimes
exactly the same. The shops we have recomended are the real deal. Ask for a visting
card (ie business card) – if the info doesn’t match, you have been had.
¨¨When negotiating with boatsmen, confirm the price and currency before setting out.
They just love to say ‘100!’ and then at the end claim they meant dollars or euros.
¨¨Do not book unoffical guides, which are hired by most guesthouses. If you want a
guide, go through UP Tourism (p395) to avoid most of the hassles listed here. If not,
have fun shopping!

hubbub of activity on the ghats themselves.
Nonguests can use the outdoor swimming
pools at Hotel Surya (₹200) and Hotel
Clarks Varanasi (₹500).
oRiver Trips BOATING
A dawn rowing boat ride along the Ganges
is a quintessential Varanasi experience. The
early-morning light is particularly inspir-
ing, and all the colour and clamour of pil-
grims bathing and performing puja unfolds
before you. An hour-long trip south from
Dashashwamedh Ghat to Harishchandra
Ghat and back is popular, but be prepared
to see a burning corpse at Harishchandra.
Early evening is also a good time to be on
the river, when you can light a lotus flower
candle (₹10) and set it adrift on the water
before watching the nightly ganga aarti
ceremony (7pm) at Dashashwamedh Ghat
directly from the boat.
The official government price of boats is
₹50 per person per hour, but it is not en-
forced. Count yourself lucky if you manage
₹100 per person per hour and be prepared
for some hard bargaining. And be warned:
it’s best to arrange a boat the day before.
If you show up as the sun is about to rise,
you’ll find yourself in a Varanasi Standoff: a
battle of wills between yourself, a boatsman
and the unforgiving rising sun – to the tune
of ₹1000 per person.
Many guesthouses offer boat trips, al-
though they’re more expensive than deal-
ing with the boatmen directly. Brown Bread
Bakery can arrange a hassle-free boat for
less than riverside (₹100 for one to two
people, ₹50 for each additonal person) with
some à la carte coffee and cakes to boot.
Aarna Spa MASSAGE
(Map p390; % 2508465; www.hotelsuryavns.
com; Hotel Surya, 20/51A The Mall; massage from
₹1400; h 8am-8pm) Hotel Surya’s spa is a
nice choice for soothing Ayurvedic mas-
sages such as Abhyanga and Potli as well as
standard aromatherpy and pressure point
treatments.
Swasthya Vardhak AYURVEDA
(Map p394; % 2312504; www.swasthyavardhak.
com; Assi Crossing; h 8am-8pm) S Varanasi
is full of ayurvedic imposters. Serious seek-
ers should come here, the city’s real deal
ayurvedic pharmacy. Consultations with a
doctor are free; prescriptions from the 500
stocked medicines run from ₹15 to ₹1500.
Addtionally, they work with a government
393
initiative that encourages struggling local
farmers to turn over a new leaf planting ay-
urvedic herbs.
2 Volunteering
Learn for Life Society VOLUNTEERING
(Map p390; % 2390040; www.learn-for-life.net;
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal VA
D55/147 Aurangabad) This small charity, run
by two foreigners and contacted through
Brown Bread Bakery, has established a
small school for disadvantaged children
and a women’s empowerment group, offer-
ing fairly paid work to local women, some of
whom are mothers of the school’s students.
The women make produce such as jams and
muesli, which are available at the bakery.
Pop into Brown Bread’s Infocentre nightly
at 7pm when representatives meet inter-
ested travellers. No cash donations.
Kiran VOLUNTEERING
(Map p390; % 5422670; www.kiranvillage.org; Mad-
hopur, Post Office: Kuruhuan) This Swiss-run or-
 V R
2
ganisation works with underprivileged chil-
oAl unteer
dren in its village in Madhopur, 12km south
NASI
of Benares Hindu University. It requires a
five-month commitment (as well as enroll-
ment in Hindi classes), but the program is as
i ng
recommended as they come. Time is spent
helping to produce handicrafts, assisting
an Indian sports teacher or helping with
evening and weekend entertainment at the
boys and girls hostels, but roles are catered
to meet individual volunteer needs and in-
terests. You must be 25 or older. Stop by the
Varanasi office for info.
C Courses
Yoga Training Centre YOGA
(Map p394; % 9919857895; www.yogatrainingcentre
.com; 5/15 Sakarkand Gali; 2hr class ₹400, reiki
from ₹1800; h 8am, 10am & 4pm) Yoga master
Sunil Kumar and his wife, Bharti, run class-
es three times a day on the 3rd floor of a
small backstreet building near Meer Ghat.
He teaches an integrated blend of hatha,
Iyengar, pranayama, satyananda and shiv-
ananda, and serious students can continue
on certificate and diploma courses in both
yoga and reiki. This place is highly recom-
mended by travellers.
Pragati Hindi LANGUAGE
(Map p394; % 9335376488; www.pragatihindi.com;
B-7/176 Harar Bagh) Readers recommend the
flexibility of the one-to-one classes taught
394

The Old City & Assi Ghat Area e

# 00 400 m
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A B C D

The Old City & Assi Ghat Area
æ Top Sights
1 Assi Ghat ...............................................B7
2 Dashashwamedh Ghat..........................C2
3 Manikarnika Ghat .................................. D1
4 Vishwanath Temple ..............................C1
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
5 International Music Centre
Ashram ...............................................B2
6 Pragati Hindi..........................................B4
7 Swasthya Vardhak ................................A7
8 Yoga Training Centre ............................C1
ÿ Sleeping
9 Chaitanya Guest House ........................B7
10 Eden Halt ...............................................B3
11 Ganpati Guesthouse .............................C1
12 Hotel Alka .............................................. C1
13 Hotel Ganges View ................................B7
14 Kedareswar ...........................................B4
15 Palace on Ganges..................................B7
16 Puja Guest House.................................. C1
17 Rashmi Guest House ............................C2
18 Sahi River View Guesthouse .................B7
19 Shiva Ganges View Paying
Guest House .......................................B4
here by the amiable Rajeswar Mukherjee
(Raju). Private classes start from ₹250 per
hour. Call ahead, or just drop in, to meet
Raju and arrange a schedule. Walk up the
lane opposite Chowki Ghat and take the first
left.
International Music¨
Centre Ashram INDIAN MUSIC
(Map p394; % 2452302; keshavaraonayak@hot
mail.com; 33/81 Khalishpura; per hr ₹200) This
family-run centre is hidden in the tangle of
backstreets off Bengali Tola. It offers sitar,
tabla, flute and classical-dance tuition, and
performances are held every Saturday and
Wednesday evening at 8pm (₹100). There’s
a small, easy-to-miss sign on Bengali Tola
directing you here. If you can’t find it, there
are loads of musical-instrument shops
(Map p394) on Bengali Tola, many of which
offer tuition.
International Centre VARIOUS
(Map p390; % 2368130; www.bhu.ac.in; C/3/3
Tagore House; h 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) If you’re
interested in studying at Benares Hindu
University, contact this centre. Courses on
offer include Hindi, Sanskrit, yoga, ayurveda
studies, and weaving and handicraft.
395
20 Teerth Guesthouse............................... C1
21 Vishnu Rest House ............................... B3
ú Eating
22 Ayyar's Cafe .......................................... B2
23 Brown Bread Bakery............................. C1
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal VA
Dolphin Restaurant.......................(see 17)
24 Keshari Restaurant................................B1
25 Lotus Lounge ........................................ B4
26 Madhur Milan Cafe ...............................C2
27 Pizzeria Vaatika Cafe............................ B7
û Drinking & Nightlife
28 Aum Cafe .............................................. B7
29 Blue Lassi.............................................. C1
þ Shopping
30 Baba Blacksheep .................................. A4
31 Benares Art & Culture .......................... B6
32 Musical Instrument Shops ................... B3
33 Organic by Brown Bread Bakery.......... A7
ï Transport
 RANASI
Tours
34 Tempos to Assi Ghat & Benares
University ........................................... B2
T Tours
Varanasi Walks WALKING TOUR
(% 8795576225; www.varanasiwalks.com; tour
₹1500-1800) S Travellers have raved about
cultural walks on offer from this foreigner-
run agency specialising in themed walks
that explore beyond the most popular ghats
and temples. Walks are usually available
between 6am and 9am and 3pm and 7pm
and can be reserved online. Three of the five
guides were born and raised in Varanasi.
UP Tourism Office CITY TOUR
(Map p390; Varanasi Junction Train Station; half-/
full-day tour ₹1500/3000; h 7am-7pm) If time
is short, UP Tourism can arrange guided
tours by taxi of the major sites, including
a 5.30am boat ride and an afternoon trip to
Sarnath.
4 Sleeping
The majority of Varanasi’s budget hotels –
and some midrange gems – are concentrated
in the tangle of narrow streets back from the
ghats along the River Ganges. There’s a con-
centration around Assi Ghat, while others
are in the crazy, bustling northern stretch
of alleys between Scindhia and Meer Ghat,
part of an area we refer to as the Old City.
396
Varanasi has an active paying-guesthouse
scheme with more than 100 family homes
available for accommodation from ₹200 to
₹1500 a night (most are under ₹400). UP
Tourism has a full list.
4 Old City Area
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal VA
Ganpati Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $
(Map p394; % 2390059; www.ganpatiguesthouse.
com; 3/24 Meer Ghat; r ₹1000-1800, without bath-
room ₹700, with AC ₹1200-3500; a i W ) Gan-
pati infuriates us. On one hand, this old
red-brick building has a pleasant, shaded
courtyard as well as plenty of balcony space
dotted around offering fine river views.
Nicely painted rooms are colourful and
clean and the ones facing out onto the Gan-
ges (from ₹700) are cutesy and spacious.
Free wi-fi works everywhere (except the
lovely rooftop restaurant, unfortunately).
On the other, there have been complaints
about its hiring of pushy guides, the front
 l eep
S
desk can be hard-headed, it irritatingly
R A NiAng
locks the doors at 10pm and we met two
Irish girls fleeing the hotel at midnight
SI
after a rat was crawling in their room!
Though it stands out in the crowded river-
side pack, don’t expect it to not agitate you
at some point or another.
Hotel Alka GUESTHOUSE $
(Map p394; % 2401681; www.hotelalkavns.com;
Meer Ghat; r ₹600-800, without bathroom ₹500,
with AC ₹1124-3597; aiW ) An excellent ghat-
side option, Alka has pretty much spotless
rooms that open onto, or overlook, a large,
plant-filled courtyard. In the far corner,
a terrace juts out over Meer Ghat for one
of the best views in all of Varanasi, a view
shared from the balconies of eight of the
pricier rooms.
Teerth Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $
(Map p394; www.teerthguesthouse.com; 8/9 Ka-
lika Gali; r without bathroom ₹350, r ₹600-800;
W ) This newish guesthouse is a pleasant
surprise as you leave the undesirable alley-
ways that lead to it and enter into a spic-
and-span, marble lobby laced with the scent
of jasmine. Rooms are on the smaller size,
but are new and spotless and the whole
place hogs a load of sunlight through the
open atrium. A pleasant rooftop offers Old
City views. Best of all, though, it’s relatively
quiet. Wi-fi is ₹100 per stay.
Vishnu Rest House GUESTHOUSE $
(Map p394; % 2500206; 24/17 Pandhey Ghat;
dm ₹90, s/d from ₹200/300; i W ) Accessed
through a small courtyard with family
homes coming off it, or directly from Pand-
hey Ghat itself, this simple guesthouse of-
fers poky rooms that aren’t the cleanest, but
the atmosphere is friendly and the stone
terrace overlooking the ghat is a winner.
Free wi-fi.
Puja Guest House GUESTHOUSE $
(Map p394; % 2405027; www.pujaguesthouse.com;
1/45 Lalita Ghat; r ₹400-800, without bathroom
₹200-250, with AC ₹1000-1500; a i ) Hidden
away up an alley overlooking Lalita Ghat,
this towering building offers extremely ba-
sic, but clean enough, cheap rooms. The
rooftop restaurant is one of Varanasi’s tall-
est, with superb 180-degree views of the
river and free sitar-and-tabla performances
every evening from 8pm. Rooms ₹800 and
up have river views and ₹1500 rooms in-
clude breakfast. Internet is ₹50 per hour.
Eden Halt GUESTHOUSE $
(Map p394; % 2454612; dtripathi23@yahoo.co.in;
Ganga Mahal, Raja Ghat; s/d ₹300/600; i W )
We are not as bowled over by this dead-
simple, pocket-sized guesthouse as many
travellers, but the four rooms (two have
private bathrooms, two have river views)
here are clean and spacious and come with
interesting alcoves and built-in shelving. A
simple roof terrace overlooks peaceful Raja
Ghat, but be prepared to fight monkeys for
space on it.
Kedareswar HOTEL $$
(Map p394; % 2455568; www.kedareswarguest
house.com; 14/1 Chowki Ghat; r ₹1400, with
AC ₹2400, all incl breakfast; a W ) Housed
in a brightly painted, aquamarine green
building, this friendly six-room place has
cramped but immaculate rooms with
sparkling bathrooms. There are only two
cheaper non-AC rooms, so it might be worth
phoning ahead. Chowki Ghat is right beside
Kedar Ghat.
Shiva Ganges View¨
Paying Guest House GUESTHOUSE $$$
(Map p394; % 2450063; www.varanasiguesthouse.
com; 14/24 Mansarowar Ghat; r ₹3500, with AC
₹4500-5000, ste ₹6000; a i W ) The best Old
City top-end option is a delightful, bright-
red brick building and part of the city’s pay-
ing-guesthouse scheme. Huge rooms here
ooze character, with central double beds

(all with mosquito nets), high ceilings and
chunky door and window shutters. All have
river views and spotlessly clean bathrooms.
Home-cooked food is also available. The one
downside – the manager can be a bit pushy.
Rashmi Guest House HOTEL $$$
(Map p394; % 2402778; www.rashmiguesthouse.
com; 16/28A Man Mandir Ghat; r incl breakfast
₹2780-6670; aiW ) Sparkling white-tiled
corridors and marble staircases lead to
clean and modern rooms, which are tiny
but smart. Many have views of Man Mandir
Ghat (in fact, the only difference between a
deluxe and super deluxe is the view and a
courtesy minibar), although the excellent
rooftop Dolphin Restaurant offers the best
views of all. Ayurvedic massage (₹1200) is
also available.
4 Assi Ghat Area
Sahi River View Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $
(Map p394; % 2366730; sahi_rvgh@sify.com;
1/158 Assi Ghat; s/d from ₹300/350, with AC from
₹950/1250, all incl breakfast; ai ) There’s a
huge variety of rooms at this friendly place.
Most are good quality and clean, and some
have interesting private balconies. Each
floor has a pleasant communal seating area
with river view, creating a great feeling of
space throughout.
Chaitanya Guest House GUESTHOUSE $
(Map p394; % 2313686; knpsahi@yahoo.com;
1/158A Assi Ghat; r ₹500, with AC ₹1000; a )
Chaitanya has just four rooms: a single,
two doubles and a double with AC. All are
comfortable, with high ceilings and clean
bathrooms (though some mattresses are
warped), and are well looked after by friend-
ly staff.
Homestay HOMESTAY $$
(Map p390; % 9415449348; www.homestayvarana
si.in; 61/16 Sidhgiri Bagh; s ₹2300-2800, d ₹2500-
3000; a iW ) Travellers rave about this
friendly homestay in a 1936 colonial home
in a residential neighborhood 1.5km from
the Old City. Host Harish, a 30-year veteran
of the textile industry (shop on premises)
has seven rooms: a few deluxe emptying out
into a small garden and enormous super
deluxes with minibars and enough space
for a small army. His wife, Malika, whips up
home-cooked meals and has been known to
give impromptu cooking classes. If you don’t
mind being a bit away from the heart of the
action, it’s a great choice.
397
o Hotel Ganges View HOTEL $$$
(Map p394; % 2313218; www.hotelgangesview.
com; Assi Ghat; r with AC ₹4500-5500; a W ) Sim-
ply gorgeous, this beautifully restored and
maintained colonial-style house overlooking
Assi Ghat is crammed with books, artwork
and antiques. Rooms are spacious and im-
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal VA
maculate and there are some charming
communal areas in which to sit and relax,
including a lovely 1st-floor garden terrace.
Book ahead.
Palace on Ganges HOTEL $$$
(Map p394; % 2315050; www.palaceonganges.com;
1/158 Assi Ghat; r ₹6184; a i W ) Each of the 24
rooms (the four river views are first-come,
first-served) in this immaculate heritage
accommodation is individually themed on
a regional Indian style, using antique fur-
nishings and colourful design themes. The
colonial, Rajasthan and Jodhpur rooms are
among the best.
 l eep
S
4 Cantonment Area
R A NiAng
Hotel Surya HOTEL $$
(Map p390; % 2508465; www.hotelsuryavns.
SI
com; 20/51A The Mall; s/d incl breakfast from
₹2280/2700; aiWs ) Varanasi’s cheap-
est hotel with a swimming pool, Surya has
standard 3-star Indian rooms, but a mod-
ern makeover in the superior and premium
rooms means everything has been tightened
up a bit, with new furnishings, upholster-
ies and the like. Value here is palpable, as
all is built around a huge lawn area that in-
cludes a laid-back Middle Eastern–style cafe
(Mango Verra) flanked by a gorgeous, nearly
200-year-old heritage building (the former
stomping grounds of a Nepali king), where
the excellent-value Canton Royale is housed.
There’s also the good (but smoky) Sol Bar
and the recomended Aarna Spa.
Gateway Hotel Ganges HOTEL $$$
(Map p390; % 6660001; www.thegatewayhotels.
com; Raja Bazaar Rd; r/ste from ₹12,366/15,738;
aiWs ) Varanasi’s best hotel is on nearly
2 hectares of beautiful gardens with fruit
trees, a tennis court, a pool, an outdoor yoga
centre and the old maharaja’s guesthouse.
All the rooms were madeover between 2010
and 2012. There’s little size difference be-
tween standard and deluxe catagories, but
the latter are far classier with refined art
on the walls and new whimsically coloured
carpeting throughout the hallways that lead
to them. Service is expectedly top class and
398
there are two fine restaurants, two bars and
two spa treatment rooms (massages from
₹3000).
Hotel Clarks Varanasi HOTEL $$$
(Map p390; % 2501011; www.clarkshotels.com; The
Mall; s/d from ₹7782/8338; aiWs ) While
executive rooms are enormous, a smart
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal VA
overhaul to all rooms means standards now
come with hardwood floors and soothing
blue or red colour schemes with small al-
coves for a sofa and table. The garden out
the back has a delightful teardrop-shaped
swimming pool shaded by bamboo and
palm trees. There’s also a 24-hour cafe and
fitness center but sadly no spa. Wi-fi is ₹600
per day.
5 Eating
Look out for locally grown langda aam
(mangoes) in summer or sitafal (custard ap-
ples) in autumn. Singhara is a blackish root
that tastes like water chestnut.
 atRiAng
E
5 Old City Area
NASI
Keshari Restaurant INDIAN $
(Map p394; 14/8 Godaulia; mains ₹65-130;
h 9.30am-11pm) Known as much for excel-
lent cusine as surly service, this atmos-
pheric spot (carved wood panelling dons
the walls and ceilings) has been famously
at it for nearly a half-century. Indians pack
in here for high-quality veg from all over
India – a dizzying array of dishes are on
offer (41 paneer curries alone). Those who
like to dance with the devil should spring
for the paneer Kadahi (spicy tomato-based
gravy), sure to make your nose run. Do not
confuse it with the less-desirable Keshari
Ruchiker Byanjan around the corner on
Dashashwamedh Rd.
Ayyar’s Cafe SOUTH INDIAN $
(Map p394; Dashashwamedh Rd; mains ₹30-75;
h8am-10pm) Excellent, no-nonsense choice
off the tourist beaten path for South Indian
masala dosa (₹30), and its spicier cousin, the
Mysore dosa (₹70); and one of the few chea-
pies to serve filtered coffee. It’s tucked away
at the end of a very short alley signed ‘New
Keshari Readymade’ off Dashashwamedh Rd.
Madhur Milan Cafe INDIAN $
(Map p394; 15/81 Dashashwamedh Rd; mains ₹32-
85; h 6am-11pm) Popular with locals, this sim-
ple but friendly restaurant serves up a range
of good-value, mostly South Indian dishes.
Thalis start from ₹60. The early opening
time means it’s packed for breakfast, with
most folks going for the extremely popular
poori sabji set breakfast (₹40; fried wheat
flour patties used to scoop up spiced potato
curry), which comes with jalebi (fried batter
soaked in sugar syrup).
oBrown Bread Bakery
MULITCUISINE $$
(Map p394; % 9838888823; www.brownbreadbak
ery.com; 5/127 Tripura Bhairavi; mains ₹120-350;
h 7am-10pm; W ) S This restaurant and or-
ganic shop’s fabulous menu includes more
than 40 varieties of European-quality cheese
and more than 30 types of bread, cookies
and cakes. The partly-AC ambiance – with
seating on cushions around low tables on
the nonsmoking bottom floor, astounding
views from the rooftop patio and live classi-
cal-music performances in the evenings – is
spot on. Part of the profits go to the char-
ity Learn for Life (p393). Warning: not to be
confused with the location across the street,
abandoned by Micha, the 5th-generation
German baker, but carried on by his local
ex-partners. If there are not four floors and
a rooftop, you’re at a different place. Call to
confirm if you’re unsure.
Lotus Lounge MULTICUISINE $$
(Map p394; 14/27 Mansarowar Ghat; mains ₹70-
240; h 8am-10pm; W ) The food doesn’t move
mountains, but Lotus is a supremely great
place to chill. The laid-back, half-open-air
restaurant, with broken-tile mosaic flooring,
wicker chairs and a terrace that juts out over
Mansarowar Ghat with lounge cushions and
tatami mats, dishes out a world fusion pot-
pourri from its kitchen and there’s wi-fi and
French Press coffee.
Dolphin Restaurant INDIAN $$$
(Rashmi Guest House; Map p394; 16/28A Man
Mandir Ghat; mains ₹110-300; h 7am-10pm) The
atmopshere trumps the food at Dolphin –
the rooftop restaurant at Rashmi Guest
House – which is perched high above Man
Mandir Ghat, but it’s still a fine place to en-
joy an evening meal. The breezy balcony is
the most refined table in the Old City and
one of the few that serves non-vegetarian as
well.
5 Assi Ghat Area
oOpen Hand CAFE
(Map p390; www.openhandonline.com; 1/128-3
Dumraub Bagh; ₹70-210; h 8am-8pm ; W ) S
This shoes-off cafe-cum–gift shop serves
the best espresso we had in India (from

₹45) and a range of excellent muffins, pan-
cakes, muesli and juices that will delight
you no end. Take breakfast (₹70 to ₹210)
on the narrow balcony or lounge around
the former home all day on the free wi-fi.
There’s also a large selection of gorgeous
handicrafts (jewellery, toys, clothing) made
in the local community. Couldn’t be more
pleasant.
Aum Cafe CAFE $$
(Map p394; www.touchoflight.us; 1/201 Assi Ghat;
mains ₹60-155; h 7am-4.30pm Tue-Sun; W ) S
Run by a hippie dippie American woman
who has been coming to India for more than
20 years, this colourful cafe has breakfast all
day (₹65 to ₹120; good lemon pancakes!),
astounding lemon and organic green tea
lassis and a handful of light sandwiches and
mains. There’s also massage therapies and
body piercing available.
Pizzeria Vaatika Cafe MULTICUISINE $$
(Map p394; www.pizzeriavaatika.in; Assi Ghat; pizza
₹150-220; h 7.30am-10pm) Italians stop read-
ing now. As for the rest of you, decent (for
India) thin-crust pizza is churned out of a
wood-fired oven and served on a shady gar-
den terrace overlooking Assi Ghat. An Ital-
ian friend of the Indian owner originally
showed him the ropes, so his heart is in the
right place. Don’t forget to leave some room
for the delicious apple pie – it’s legitimately
tasty.
5 Cantonment Area
Varuna Restaurant INDIAN $$$
(Map p390; www.thegatewayhotels.com; Gateway
Hotel Ganges, Raja Bazaar Rd; mains ₹425-1700;
h 12.30-2.45pm & 7.30-11pm) Taj Hotels takes
its restaurants very seriously and you’ll in-
deed find one of UP’s most innovative and
interesting menus at the elegant but not
stuffy main restaurant at the best hotel in
town. New Zealand lamb chops doused
with masala, spiritual veg thalis (₹800) and
stone-ground mustard-marinated prawns
are just a few of the intriguing choices. Serv-
ice is appropriately on point and there’s live
sitar and tabla music every evening.
Canton Royale INDIAN $$$
(Map p390; www.hotelsuryavns.com; Hotel Surya,
20/51A The Mall; mains ₹150-280; h 11am-11pm)
Housed in a nearly 200-year-old herit-
age building, Hotel Surya’s excellent main
restaurant has a colonial elegance, and on
399
VARANASI’S TOP FIVE
RIVERSIDE RETREATS
Pizzeria Vaatika Cafe Tree-shaded
verandah overlooking Assi Ghat.
Lotus Lounge Laid-back yet chic.
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal VA
Hotel Ganges View (p397) Sip tea in
style from the gorgeous 1st-floor garden
terrace.
Puja Guest House (p396) Offers
180-degree rooftop views with live classi-
cal music every evening.
Vishnu Rest House (p396) Simple
stone terrace sandwiched between
Pandhey Ghat and a colourful temple.
warm evenings you can eat out on the large
lawn. Value for money, it’s one of the best of
Varanasi’s top-end choices, offering a global
hodgepodge that extends from Mexican and
 rRi nk
D
Thai to Chinese and Continental. But really,
A NiAng
it’s the Indian that’s excellent, including a
wonderful thali (₹280).
S I & N i ght l i fe
Eden Restaurant INDIAN $$$
(Map p390; www.hotelpradeep.com; Hotel Pradeep,
Jagatganj; 125-300; h 7am-11pm) Hotel Pra-
deep’s rooftop restaurant, complete with
garden, manicured lawns and wrought-
iron furniture, is a very pleasant place for
a candle-lit evening meal. The good-quality
Indian menu comes from the lobby-level
Poonam restaurant – and as we all know,
heat rises! If you ask for Indian-spicy here,
you’ll get it.
6 Drinking & Nightlife
Wine and beer shops are dotted discreetly
around the city, usually away from the river.
Note that it is frowned upon to drink alcohol
on or near the holy Ganges, and liquor laws
regarding proximity of temples insure no-
body is licensed, but rooftops here can usu-
ally discreetly fashion up a beer. For bars,
head to midrange and top-end hotels away
from the ghats.
There’s nightly live classical music at
Brown Bread Bakery, Puja Hotel and Varuna
Restaurant at Gateway Hotel Ganges, to
name but a few.
The International Music Centre Ashram
has small performances (₹100) on Wednes-
day and Saturday evenings.
4 00

NO 1 LASSI IN ALL VARANASI

Your long, thirsty search for the best lassi in India is over. Look no further than Blue
Lassi (Map p394; lassis ₹20-80; h 7.30am-10.30pm; W ), a tiny, hole-in-the-wall yoghurt
shop that has been churning out the freshest, creamiest, fruit-filled lassis since 1925.
The grandson of the original owner still works here, sitting by his lassi-mixing cauldron
in front of a small room with wooden benches for customers and walls plastered with
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal VA

messages from happy drinkers. There are 70 delicious flavour combos, but of the main
ones – plain, banana, apple and pomegranate – we think banana and apple, the latter
flecked with fresh apple shreds, just about top of the bunch (yes, we went twice!). The
whole scene here is surreal: the lassi takes ages to arrive and when it does, it’s handed
off to you with the care of a priceless work of art as the deceased are carried by the front
of the shop on the way to Burning Ghat. Namaste!

Prinsep Bar BAR find for silks (scarves/saris from ₹300/2500)

(Map p390; www.tajhotels.com; Gateway Hotel
Ganges, Raja Bazaar Rd; h noon-11pm Mon-Fri, to
midnight Sat & Sun) For a quiet drink with a
dash of history try this tiny bar, named af-
ter James Prinsep, who drew wonderful il-
lustrations of Varanasi’s ghats and temples,
 hopp
S
and pashminas (shawls from ₹1500). Prices
are fixed and the friendly owner refuses to
play the commssion game, so autorickshaws
and taxis don’t like to come here (ignore
anyone who says you cannot drive here).
It’s located at Bhelpura crossing under the

but stick to beer (from ₹195) as our cocktail mosque.

RANA

(from ₹450) was weak.

Benares Art & Culture HANDICRAFTS
i ng

Mango Verra (Map p394; Shivala Rd; h 10am-8pm Mon-Sat)

SI

CAFE
(Map p390; www.hotelsuryavns.com; 20/51A The
Mall; h 11am-11pm) This laid-back cafe in the
garden at Hotel Surya is a relaxing place
where you can smoke hookah pipes (₹300)
while sipping a beer.
7 Shopping
Varanasi is justifiably famous for silk
brocades and beautiful Benares saris, but
don’t believe much of what the silk sales-
men tell you about the relative quality of
products, even in government empori-
ums. Instead, shop around and judge for
yourself.
Varanasi is also a good place to shop
for sitars (starting from ₹3000) and tablas
(from ₹2500). The cost depends primarily
on the type of wood used. Mango is cheap-
est (and cracks or warps correspondingly),
while black shisham or mahogany are of the
highest quality. Serious buyers should be
sure to double-check their chosen wood isn’t
banned for export.
oBaba Blacksheep SILK
(Map p394; www.babablacksheep.co; B 12/120 A-9,
Bhelpura; h 9.30am-8pm) If the deluge of trav-
eller enthusiam is anything to go by, this is
the most trustworthy, non-pushy shop in In-
dia. Indeed it is one of the best places you’ll
This centuries-old haveli (traditional, or-
nately decorated residence) stocks fixed-
price quality carvings, sculptures, paintings
and wooden toys all made by local artists.
Organic by Brown Bread Bakery COSMETICS
(Map p394; www.brownbreakbakery.com; 2/225
Shivali; W ) S This small shop and garden
cafe sells natural and organic cosmetics
from the government-sponsored Khadi pro-
gram. Honey, muesli and other small food-
stuffs, baked goods and fresh juices and cof-
fee are on offer.
Shri Gandhi Ashram Khadi CLOTHING
(Map p390; Khabir Chaura Rd; h 10am-7.30pm)
Stocks shirts, kurta pyjamas, saris and head
scarves, all made from the famous home-
spun khadi fabric. Next day tailoring can be
arranged.
Mehrotra Silk Factory SILK
(Map p390; www.mehrotrasilk.in; 21/72 Englishia
Line; h 10am-8pm) Tucked away down a tiny
alleyway near the main train station, this
pocket-sized, fixed-priced shop is a fun place
to buy silk scarves (from ₹250), saris (from
₹1600) and bedspread sets (from ₹5000).
The Lal Ghat location (Map p390; 4/8A, Lal
Ghat; h 10am-8pm) is more convenient for
Old City shoppers.

88 Information
Varanasi is pretty wired – even Blue Lassi has
wi-fi! Some charge. Many don’t. Internet cafes
are everywhere, charging between ₹25 and
₹50 per hour. There are several ATMs scattered
around town, including State Bank of India in the
lobby as you exit the train station.
Heritage Hospital (Map p390; www.heritage
hospitals.com; Lanka) English-speaking staff
and doctors; 24-hour pharmacy.
Main Post Office (Map p390; GPO; Kabir
Chaura Rd; h 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Best PO for
sending parcels abroad.
Point (Map p394; 1/156 Assi Ghat Rd; per hr
₹25; h 8am-10.30pm) Friendly internet near
Assi Ghat.
State Bank of India (Map p390; The Mall;
h 10am-2pm & 2.30-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm
Sat) Changes travellers cheques and cash.
State Bank of India ATM (Map p394; cnr
Dashashwamedh Rd & Mandapur Rd)
Tourist Police (Map p390; UP Tourism office,
Varanasi Junction train station; h 7am-7pm)
Tourist police wear sky-blue uniforms.
UP Tourism (Map p390; www.up-tourism.com;
Varanasi Junction Train Station; h 7am-7pm)
The patient Mr Umashankar at the office inside
the train station has been dishing out reason-
ably impartial information to arriving travellers
for years; he’s a mine of knowledge, so this
is a requisite first stop if you arrive here by
train. Get the heads up on autorickshaw prices,
the best trains for your travels, the lay of the
land, details on Varanasi’s paying-guesthouse
scheme or arrange a guided tour.
88 Getting There & Away
AIR
Lal Bahadur Shashtri Airport, 24km north of
town, is served by Jet Airways (www.jetairways.
com; Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport), with direct
flights to Delhi (from ₹7400, daily), Mumbai
HANDY TRAINS FROM VARANASI (BSB)
DESTINATION TRAIN NO & NAME
Agra 13237/13239 PNBE-Kota Exp
Allahabad 11094 Mahangari Exp
Gorakhpur 15003 Chaurichaura Exp
Jabalpur 11062/11066 MFP/DBG-LTT Exp 212/585/880 (A)
Khajuraho 21108 BSB-Kurj Link E
Kolkata (Howrah) 12334 Vibhuti Exp
Lucknow 14235 BSB-BE Exp
New Delhi 12559 Shiv Ganga Exp
Fares: (A) sleeper/3AC/2AC, (B) sleeper/3AC; *Mon, Wed, Sat only
4 01
(from ₹7600, daily) and Kolkata (from ₹2900,
daily); and Air India (www.airindia.com; Airlines
Bhavan 52, Yadunath Marg) to Delhi (₹1799,
daily), Mumbai (₹3699, daily), Agra (₹3028;
Monday, Wednesday and Saturday), Khajuraho
(₹3532, Monday, Wednesday and Saturday) and
Kathmandu (₹12,159, Tuesday, Thursday, Satur-
day and Sunday). Some other airlines are based
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal VA
at the airport.
BUS
The main bus stand (Map p390) is opposite
Varanasi Junction train station.
Allahabad Non-AC (₹110, three hours, every
30 minutes); AC (₹169, three hours, 7am, 10am
and 4pm)
Faizabad ₹160, six hours, daily at 1.30pm, 2pm
and 6pm
Gorakhpur ₹168, seven hours, every two hours
or so from 4am to 5.30pm
Lucknow Non-AC (₹232, seven to eight hours,
7am and 3pm); Pawan Gold (nonstop; ₹623, six
hours, 8am, 9am, 4pm and 4.30pm); AC (₹623,
six hours, 7am, 8am, 3pm and 10.30pm)
 R A N A S I i on
Informat
TRAIN
Luggage theft has been reported on trains to
and from Varanasi so you should take extra
care. Reports of drugged food and drink aren’t
uncommon, so it’s probably still best to politely
decline any offers from strangers.
Varanasi Junction train station, also known as
Varanasi Cantonment (Cantt), is the main station.
Foreign tourist quota tickets must be purchased
at the helpful Foreign Tourist Centre (Map p390;
h 8am-12.50pm & 2-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm
Sun), a ticket office just past the UP Tourism of-
fice, on your right as you exit the station.
There are several daily trains to Allahabad,
Gorakhpur and Lucknow. A few daily trains leave
for New Delhi and Kolkata, but only two daily
trains go to Agra. The direct train to Khajuraho
only runs on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday.
DURA-
FARE (₹) TION (HR) DEPARTURES
262/733/1110 (A) 13 4.40pm
120/287/610 (A) 3 11.25am
132/353/610 (A) 6½ 12.40am
10½ 11.20pm
200/551 (B) 12 6.05pm*
306/836/1255 (A) 14 6.10pm
161/438 (B) 7¼ 11.45pm
306/836/1255 (A) 12½ 7.15pm
4 02
BORDER CROSSING – ¨
TO/FROM NEPAL
From Varanasi’s bus stand there are
regular services to Sunauli (₹239, 10
hours, 7am to 7.30pm).
By train, go to Gorakhpur then trans-
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal S
fer to a Sunauli bus.
Air India has four weekly flights to
Kathmandu (from ₹12,159). Nepali
visas are available on arrival.
On other days, go via Satna from where you can
catch buses to Khajuraho.
88 Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
An autorickshaw to the airport in Babatpur,
22km northwest of the city, costs ₹200. A taxi is
about ₹400.
 Aett
G
BICYCLE
R NiAT
You can hire bikes (per day ₹20) from a small
cycle repair shop (Map p390) near Assi Ghat.
ngH A round
CYCLE-RICKSHAW
A small ride – up to 2km – costs ₹10 to ₹15.
Rough prices from Dashashwamedh Rd include:
Assi Ghat ₹40, Benares Hindu University ₹60
and Varanasi Junction train station ₹45. Be
prepared for hard bargaining.
TAXI & AUTORICKSHAW
Prepaid booths for autorickshaws and taxis are
directly outside Varanasi Junction train sta-
tion and give you a good benchmark for prices
around town. First pay a ₹5 administration
charge at the booth then take a ticket which
you give to your driver, along with the fare,
once you’ve reached your destination. Note
that taxis and autorickshaws cannot access the
Dashashwamedh Ghat area between the hours
of 8am and 8pm due to high pedestrian traffic.
You’ll be dropped at Godaulia Crossing and will
need to walk the remaining 400m or so to the
entrance to the Old City; or 700m or so all the
way to Dashashwamedh Ghat. Sample fares:
Airport auto/taxi ₹200/400
Assi Ghat auto/taxi ₹70/200
Dashashwamedh Ghat auto/taxi ₹60/150
Godaulia (by St Thomas’ Church) auto/taxi
₹50/₹150
Ramnagar Fort auto/taxi ₹155/₹350
Sarnath auto/taxi ₹80/250
Half-day tour (four hours) auto/taxi
₹455/₹600
Full-day tour (eight hours) auto/taxi
₹905/₹1200
Tempos to Assi Ghat (₹10) and Benares Uni-
versity (₹15) leave from southeast corner of
Dashashwamedh Rd.
Sarnath
% 0542
Buddha came to Sarnath to preach his mes-
sage of the middle way to nirvana after he
achieved enlightenment at Bodhgaya and
gave his famous first sermon here. In the
3rd century BC emperor Ashoka had mag-
nificent stupas and monasteries erected
here as well as an engraved pillar. When
Chinese traveller Xuan Zang dropped by in
AD 640, Sarnath boasted a 100m-high stupa
and 1500 monks living in large monasteries.
However, soon after, Buddhism went into
decline and, when Muslim invaders sacked
the city in the late 12th century, Sarnath dis-
appeared altogether. It was ‘rediscovered’ by
British archaeologists in 1835.
Today it’s one of the four important sites
on the Buddhist circuit (along with Bodh-
gaya, Kushinagar and Lumbini in Nepal)
and attracts followers from around the
world, especially on Purnima (or, informal-
ly, Buddha’s birthday), when Buddha’s life,
death and enlightenment are celebrated,
usually in April or May.
1 Sights
Dhamekh Stupa &
Monastery Ruins HISTORIC SITE
(Indian/foreigner ₹5/100, video ₹25; h dawn-dusk)
Set in a peaceful park of monastery ruins is
the impressive 34m Dhamekh Stupa, which
marks the spot where the Buddha preached
his first sermon. The floral and geometric
carvings are 5th century AD, but some of the
brickwork dates back as far as 200 BC.
Nearby is a 3rd-century BC Ashoka Pillar
with an edict engraved on it. It once stood
15m tall and had the famous four-lion capi-
tal (now in the museum) perched on top of
it, but all that remains are five fragments of
its base.
Chaukhandi Stupa BUDDHIST SACRED SITE
(h dawn-dusk) This large ruined stupa dates
back to the 5th century AD, and marks the
spot where Buddha met his first disciples.
The incongruous tower on top of the stupa
is Mughal and was constructed here in the
16th century to commemorate the visit of
Emperor Humayun.
 4 03
Mulgandha Kuti Vihar BUDDHIST TEMPLE
(camera/video ₹20/100; h 4-11.30am & 1.30-
Sarnath e
# 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
A B

666
8pm) This modern temple was completed
# Burmese
Ú Temple
in 1931 by the Mahabodhi Society. Bud- & Monastery
dha’s first sermon is chanted daily, start- Monastery Ruins
ing between 6pm and 7pm depending on 1 3 1
the season. A bodhi tree growing outside #1
ä Ú
# Ú 6
#4
£
#
# Entrance

Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal S

was transplanted in 1931 from the tree in 10 ä ÿ
#
Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka, which in turn is 8#
#
úâ #
to Dhamekh Stupa
ú Ú
#
D
9 (500m)
#
said to be the offspring of the original tree Archaeological
Chinese
Museum
in Bodhgaya under which Buddha attained Temple &
Ú
# Monastery
enlightenment.
Thai Temple
& Monastery
Archaeological Museum MUSEUM Ú
#
2 2
(admission ₹5; h 9am-4.45pm) This fully mod- Japanese

66
# Temple &
ð

Ash
ernised, 100-year-old sandstone museum ð
# Monastery
houses wonderfully displayed ancient treas-

o
7ÿ
#

ka M
ures such as the very well preserved 3rd-cen- 5
ÿ
#

arg
tury BC lion capital from the Ashoka pillar,
which has been adopted as India’s national 2Ú
#
emblem, and a huge 2000-year-old stone

66
umbrella, ornately carved with Buddhist
3 3
symbols.

 lA eep
4 Sleeping Varanasi

R N AT
D
(9.8km)
Jain Paying Guest House GUESTHOUSE $ A B

(% 2595621; jainpgh@gmail.com; d ₹500, with-
out bathroom ₹450) This simple, good-value
guesthouse is run by a friendly doctor of ge-
ography, whose wife whips up home-cooked
thalis (₹120). The five rooms are spacious
and prices drop to ₹250 between April and
September.
Tibetan Temple & Monastery MONASTERY $
(% 2595990; chotrulmonlam@gmail.com; d ₹500
,tr without bath ₹300) The modest, well-kept
TIbetan monastery offers simple rooms and
a small restaurant serving Tibetan and Chi-
nese specialties (₹60 to ₹150).
Agrawal Paying Guest House GUESTHOUSE $$
(% 2595316; agrawalpg@gmail.com; r ₹700-800,
with AC ₹1400; a ) Peaceful place with a re-
fined owner and spotless marble-floored
rooms overlooking a large garden.
5 Eating
Vaishali Restaurant INDIAN, CHINESE $
(mains ₹30-160; h 8am-7.30pm) Large and
modern 1st-floor restaurant serving mostly
Indian dishes, but some Chinese too. It’s the
best in town.
Green Hut INDIAN, CHINESE $
(meals ₹35-165; h 9am-9pm) A breezy open-
sided cafe-restaurant offering snacks, thalis
(₹60 to ₹160) and Chinese dishes.
i ng
H
Sarnath
æ Sights
1 Ashoka Pillar........................................A1
2 Chaukhandi Stupa.............................. A3
3 Dhamekh Stupa & Monastery
Ruins.................................................A1
4 Mulgandha Kuti Vihar .........................A1
ÿ Sleeping
5 Agrawal Paying Guest House............. B2
6 Jain Paying Guest House ....................B1
7 Tibetan Temple & Monastery............ B2
ú Eating
8 Green Hut ............................................A1
9 Vaishali Restaurant.............................B1
ï Information
10 Archaeological Museum
Ticket Office .....................................A1
88 Information
Power cuts mean internet cafes are unreliable,
but there are a few in town.
88 Getting There & Away
Local buses to Sarnath (₹15, 40 minutes) pass in
front of Varanasi Junction train station, but you
may wait a long time for one. An autorickshaw
costs about ₹110 from Varanasi’s Old City. On
4 04
the way back you can snag a lift in a shared auto
or vikram (₹30) but you may have to change on
the outskirts of the city. Some trains running
between Varanasi and Gorakphur also stop here.
Trains for Sarnath leave Varanasi Junction at
7am, 11.30am and 1.20pm. Returning to Vara-
nasi, trains leave Sarnath at 9am, 7.30pm and
9.50pm. The journey takes around 20 minutes
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal G
and a ‘general’ ticket for an unreserved 2nd-
class seat will cost you just a few rupees.
Gorakhpur
% 0551 / POP 623,000
There’s little to see in Gorakhpur itself, but
this well-connected transport hub is a short
hop from the pilgrimage centre of Kushina-
gar – the place where Buddha died – making
it a possible stopover on the road between
Varanasi and Nepal.
4 Sleeping & Eating
There are loads of standard-issue hotels
 lorakhpur
S
across from the railway station that will do
eep i ng & E at i ng
for a get-in, get-out overnight. Try Hotel
Adarsh Palace (% 2201912; hotel.adarshpalace
@rediffmail.com; Railway Station Rd; dm ₹150, s/d
from ₹400/600, d with AC ₹660-990; a ). Same
goes for food – dhabas line the same street.
We like Mirch Masala (mains ₹40-120; h 9am-
2.30am).
Hotel Vivek HERITAGE HOTEL $
(% 2342800; hotelvivek@yahoo.co.in; Bank Rd;
s/d ₹600/700, with AC from ₹990/1050; aW )
This 1939 colonial mansion 1.5km from the
railway station, is a great budget option if
you don’t mind venturing into town a bit.
In the former home of India’s first Indian
Police Inspector General, budget rooms are
simple but spacious and things only im-
prove into a smattering of air-con options,
all facing a U-shaped courtyard. The appeal
here is the crumbling history and a hands-
on owner, the Inspector General’s grandson.
There’s a good restaurant and great chai as
well. It’s a ₹20 cycle-rickshaw ride from the
railway station and walking distance from
many good restaurants.
Chowdhry¨
Sweet House MULTICUISINE, DESSERTS $
(Cinema Rd; mains ₹55-170; h 8am-10.45pm) This
bi-level madhouse is packed with locals tak-
ing in an extensive array of Indian and Chi-
nese veg dishes in a diner atmosphere, in-
cluding ginormous dosas and excellent tha-
lis (₹125 to ₹165). It specialises in sundaes,
too, and there is an absolute boatload from
which to choose. It’s a ₹20 cycle-rickshaw
ride from the railway station.
88 Information
UP Tourism (h 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) is inside
the train station. There are State Bank of India
ATMs in the train station parking lot and across
from Adarsh Palace. Varden Cyber Hut (per
hour ₹20; h 7am-midnight) is opposite the train
station, below Hotel Varden.
For the main bus stand, come out of the train
station and keep walking straight for about
300m. For Varanasi buses you need the Katchari
bus stand, about 3km further south.
88 Getting There & Away
Frequent bus services run from the main bus
stand to Faizabad (₹124, five hours, every 30
minutes), Kushinagar (₹42, two hours, every
30 minutes until 8pm) and Sunauli (₹68, three
hours, hourly), along with Volvo AC buses to Luc-
know (₹613, six hours, 9am, 11am and 10pm).
Faster collective jeeps leave for Sunauli when full
from 5am to 6pm directly across from the train
station (per person ₹150 to ₹200, two hours).
Buses to Varanasi (₹165, seven hours, hourly
from 7am to 9.30pm) leave from the Katchari bus
stand, including two express buses (₹173, five
hours, 7am and 4pm), as do buses to Allahabad
(₹215, eight hours, hourly from 7am to 10pm).
There are five daily trains (six on Mon-
day, Wednesday and Friday) from big and
bustling Gorakhpur Junction to Varanasi
(sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹132/353/610, 5½ hours),
including one slower, cheaper night train
(55149 Gkp Muv Pass, seven hours, 11.05pm).
A number of daily trains also leave for Lucknow
(sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹144/390/610, six hours)
and Delhi (₹314/860/1295, 13 hours) and one
for Agra Fort (19038/19040 Avadh Express,
₹249/697/1050, 1.20pm, 15½ hours).
The train ticket reservation office is 500m
from the train station; to the right of the station
as you exit.
JetKonnect (www.jetkonnect.com; Civil Air Ter-
minal) operates one daily flight from Delhi Mon-
day to Friday but it is comparatively expensive.
Kushinagar
% 05564 / POP 18,000
One of the four main pilgrimage sites mark-
ing Buddha’s life – the others being Lumbini
(Nepal), Bodhgaya and Sarnath – Kushina-
gar is where Buddha died. There are several
peaceful, modern temples where you can
stay, chat with monks or simply contemplate
your place in the world, and there are three
 4 05

Kushinagar e
#
0
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400 m
0.2 miles
A B C D
Buses to
Gorakhpur
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#
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Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal K

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SHINGAR
A B C D

main historical sights, including the simple

but wonderfully serene stupa where Buddha
is said to have been cremated.
1 Sights
oMahaparinirvana Temple BUDDHIST TEMPLE
(Buddha Marg) The highlight of this modest
temple, rebuilt in 1927 and set among exten-
sive lawns and ancient ruins with a circu-
mambulatory path, is its serene 5th-century
reclining Buddha, unearthed in 1876. Six
metres long, it depicts Buddha on his an-
cient death-bed and is one of the world’s
most moving Buddhist icons. Behind the
temple is an ancient 19m-tall stupa, and in
the surrounding park is a large bell erected
by the Dalai Lama.
oRamabhar Stupa BUDDHIST SITE
Architecturally, this half-ruined, 15m-high
stupa is little more than a large, dome-shaped
clump of red bricks, but there is an unmistak-
able aura about this place which is hard to
ignore. This is where Buddha’s body is said to
have been cremated and monks and pilgrims
can often be seen meditating by the palm-
lined path that leads around the stupa.
Kushinagar
æ Top Sights
1 Mahaparinirvana Temple ................... A3
2 Ramabhar Stupa ................................ D3
3 Wat Thai Complex.............................. B3
æ Sights
4 Buddha Ghat ...................................... D3
5 Buddha Museum................................ B3
6 Dalai Lama Bell................................... A3
7 Korean Temple ................................... B3
8 Kushinagar Archway ...........................A1
9 Maharparinirvana Stupa .................... A3
10 Mahasukhamdada Chin
Thargyi Pagoda &
Myanmar Temple ............................ A2
11 Mathakuar Temple ............................. A3
ÿ Sleeping
12 Japan-Sri Lanka Buddhist
Centre.............................................. B3
13 Linh Son Vietnam Chinese
Temple............................................. A2
14 Tibetan Temple .................................. A3
ú Eating
15 Yama Cafe .......................................... A2

oWat Thai Complex BUDDHIST TEMPLE beautifully maintained gardens with bon-
(% 9005007064; www.tkr980.org; Buddha Marg; sai-style trees, a monastery and a temple
h 6am-9pm) Features an elaborate temple, containing a gilded Buddha. There’s also
4 06
a Sunday school and health clinic (across
the street), each of which welcomes visi-
tors. There are rooms by donation, but book
ahead!
Buddha Museum MUSEUM
(Buddha Marg; Indian/foreigner ₹3/10, photogra-
phy ₹20; h 10.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) Exhibits
Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal S
Buddhist relics, sculptures and terracottas
unearthed from the Kushinagar region, as
well as some Tibetan thangkas (rectangu-
lar cloth paintings) and Mughal miniature
paintings.
Mathakuar Temple BUDDHIST TEMPLE
(Buddha Marg) This small shrine, set among
monastery ruins, marks the spot where Bud-
dha is said to have made his final sermon
and now houses a 3m-tall blue-stone Bud-
dha statue, thought to date from the 10th
century AD.
4 Sleeping & Eating
 U
Some of the temples which have basic ac-
l eep
N AUi LI
commodation for pilgrims also welcome
tourists. Wat Thai is the most serene and
ng & E at i ng
beautiful, but books up well in advance, usu-
ally with Thai folks.
Tibetan Temple PILGRIMS’ REST HOUSE $
(% 9931276680; Buddha Marg; d/tr ₹600/700)
Some 25 brand-new rooms make this a great
temple choice – some are nicer than neigh-
bouring hotels. There is also a dormitory of-
fering rooms by donation. Call the manager,
Thinlay, who speaks decent English.
Linh Son Vietnam¨
Chinese Temple PILGRIMS’ REST HOUSE $
(% 273093; www.linhsonnepalindiatemple.org; Bud-
dha Marg; tr ₹700, ste tr ₹1700) Simple, clean tri-
ples with private bathroom and hot water.
Japan-Sri Lanka¨
Buddhist Centre PILGRIMS’ REST HOUSE $
(% 273042; assajikushinagar@hotmail.com; Bud-
dha Marg; tr/q ₹300/600) Set up for large
groups, so call ahead, but has decent-quality,
clean rooms.
oYama Cafe MULTICUISINE $
(Buddha Marg; mains ₹30-80; h 8am-8pm)
Run by the welcoming Mr and Mrs Roy,
this Kushinagar institution has a traveller-
friendly menu which includes toast, ome-
lettes, fried rice and thukpa (Tibetan noo-
dle soup) and is the best place to come for
information about the area. Ask about the
so-called Holy Hike, a 13km-walk in the sur-
rounding farmland.
88 Information
There is one Central Bank of India ATM and a
couple of private money changers. Sweet Solu-
tions (per hr ₹400; h 8am-6pm) is the most
reliable internet in town.
88 Getting There & Away
Frequent buses to Gorakhpur (₹42, two hours,
24 hours though less frequently after dark) will
pick you up at the yellow archway.
Sunauli
% 05522
Sunauli is a dusty town that offers little
more than a bus stop, a couple of hotels, a
few shops and a border post. The border is
open 24 hours and the crossing is straight-
forward so most travellers carry on into
Nepal without stopping here. There are
more facilities in the Nepali part of Sunauli;
Bhairawa, a further 4km north, is a more
substantial town.
Buses drop you just a few hundred metres
from the Indian immigration office, so you
can ignore the cycle-rickshaws.
If you need to bed down here for a night,
Hotel Indo-Nepal (% 238142; r ₹400-650),
by the bus stand, has underwhelming
rooms set around a cool courtyard. Its sim-
ple restaurant (mains ₹40-150, thali ₹75-120;
h 6.30am-10pm) doesn’t instill confidence
but actually makes a nice lunch stop even if
you don’t stay.
If you’re leaving India, the very helpful
Nepal Tourism Board information centre
(www.welcomenepal.com; h 10am-5pm Sun-Fri) is
on your right, in no-man’s land.
The Nepali side of Sunauli has a few cheap
hotels, outdoor restaurants and a more up-
beat atmosphere, but most travellers prefer
to stay in Bhairawa, or get straight on a bus
to Kathmandu or Pokhara.
Regular buses run from Sunauli to Gora-
khpur (₹81, three hours, 5am to 7pm) from
where you can catch trains to Varanasi. A
few morning (4.30am to 10.30am) and af-
ternoon (4.30pm to 7pm) buses run direct
to Varanasi (₹242, 11 hours), but it’s a long,
bumpy ride. For faster collective jeeps to
Gorakhpur, take your second left after Indi-
an immigration down a small side street and
walk about 75m past the water tower into a
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 4 07

BORDER CROSSING – INTO NEPAL FROM SUNAULI

Border Hours
The border is open 24 hours but closes to vehicles from 10pm to 6am, and if you arrive
in the middle of the night you may have to wake someone to get stamped out of India.
For further information, head to shop.lonelyplanet.com to purchase a downloadable

Ut tar Pr adesh & the Ta j Mahal S

PDF of the Kathmandu chapter from Lonely Planet’s Nepal guide.

Foreign Exchange
There’s nowhere to change money in Sunauli, but there are foreign-exchange places just
across the border on the Nepal side. Small denominations of Indian currency are ac-
cepted for bus fares on the Nepal side.

Onward Transport
Buses and shared jeeps leave all day until around 8pm from the Nepal side of the bor-
der for Kathmandu (NRs600, six hours) and Pokhara (NRs500, eight hours). The most
comfortable option is the Golden Travels (% 0977 71520194) AC bus to Kathmandu
(NRs 1000, six to seven hours); it leaves Sunauli at 7am. Shared autorickshaws or jeeps
(NRs10) can take you from the border to Bhairawa, 4km away, where you can also catch
buses to Kathmandu (NRs 467, eight hours) via Narayangarh (NRs 230, three hours);
Pokhara (NRs 367, nine hours) via Tansen (NRs 120, five hours) along the Siddhartha
Hwy or via the Mugling Hwy (NRs 450, eight hours). Local buses for Buddha’s birthplace

 unau
G
at Lumbini (NRs 70, one hour) leave from the junction of the Siddhartha Hwy and the

ett i ng
road to Lumbini, about 1km north of Bank Rd.
Buddha Air (www.buddahair.com) and Yeti Airlines (www.yetiairlines.com) offer

l i T here & Away

flights to Kathmandu from Bhairawa (from US$121).

Visas
Multiple-entry visas (15/30/90 days US$25/40/100 – cash, not rupees) are available
at the Nepal immigration post. You will need two recent passport photos. Always check
with Nepal Department of Immigration (% 0977 1 4433934; www.immi.gov.np; Kali-
kasthan, Kathmandu) for the latest information.

parking lot where they congregate and leave
when full (₹150 to ₹200, two hours).
Be wary of buying ‘through’ tickets from
Kathmandu or Pokhara to Varanasi. Some
travellers report being intimidated into
buying another ticket once over the border.
Travelling in either direction, it’s better to
take a local bus to the border, walk across
and take another onward bus (pay the con-
ductor on board). Travellers have also com-
plained about being pressured into paying
extra luggage charges for buses out of Suna-
uli. You shouldn’t have to, so politely decline.

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