ANCIENT ROME

Chronology

-Etruscan Monarchy or The Kingdom (753-509 B.C)

-The Republic (508-27 B.C)

-Early Empire (27 B.C-A.D 305)

-Late Empire (A.D 305-476)

Background

Although the cultures of both the Etruscans and the Romans were strongly influenced by
outside contact, particularly by eastern Mediteranean cultures, each had strong characteristics
of its own.

Walaupun cultural Etruscans dan Roman dipengaruhi sangat kuat oleh pihak luar, speciali
culture dari mediteranian, tetapi kedua era ini masing2 mempunyai characteristic yang
sangat kuat.

After a bitter war, Julius Caesar became dictator, after his assassination his great-nephew,
Octavian, assumed the title of Augustus and became the first Roman emperor.

After the Christian era, Rome was indeed an awesome power stretching from the Tigris-
Eupharates Valley in present-day Iraq to the borders of Scotland.

Rome menjadi Negara super power setelah kristian masuk, Julius Caesar menjadi emperor
pertama di Rome.

After the most violent and dangerous wars, the Romans developed their very special qualities
of character :

-Iron Discipline

-stoic courage

-tenacity

-obedience to authority

-absolute realism

-staunch conservatism

Semua quality ini mempengaruhi culture dan art mereka. Roman art of the Empire period is
almost always characterized by its strength, realism and power. While Greek is simplicity,
balance,beauty,grace and idealism,but having nothing but contempt for their lack of
realism, practicality,virility and stoic courange.
Emperor of Rome

-Octavian known as Augustus

-Tiberius (expand the territory)

-Caligula(expand the territory)

-Claudius(expand the territory)

-Marcus Aurelius(Rome prospered and was at peace)

-Nero(art flourished during his reign)

-Trajan

-Hadrian

Dignity is another key to understanding Roman character, dignity meant to them;

weightiness, a weighty quality, sobriety, monumentality, endurance

The heavy swathing of the human body in toga was an outwand visible symbol of this
weightiness, massiveness, and hence strength. Men for ancient Rome never hurried because,
encumbered by their heavy status-identifying cloaks, they were forced to move with weighty
dignity.

The basic costume silhouette

Kalau dilihat secara sepintas Roman sangat mirip dgn Greeks, tetapi memang Greek
mempunyai influence yg strong di Roman Culture. Walaupun Rome menyumbang banyak
hal seperti law, government, engineering, art dan clothing, tetapi pakaian bangsa Roman
kebanyakan di ambil dari Greek dan Etruscan. Therefore, kadang memang sulit untuk
mengetahui perbedaan garment dari Roman ke Etruscan atau Greek .
Perbedaan Roman dan Greek

Roman

-power, keagungan dan kemulian juga untuk kenyamanan dan variety

-Roman tidak tertarik dengan adanya ide untuk indahnya draping seperti bangsa Greeks

Greek

-anggun dan kecantikan

-simple dan menekan kan kepada gerakan badan secara natural, banyak draping

Pakaian wanita mereka yg sangat similar adalah The Chiton yg menjadi The Stola di period
Roman. Wanita di zaman ini memotong stola seperti T-Shaped untuk kenyamanan and
praktisnya

Bahan untuk Stola :

-linen

-wool

-pada empire period mengunakan sutra yg sangat mahal import dari negeri cina, digunakan
oleh wanita2 yg kaya raya

-Cotton kadang2 digunakan di Empire period

Characteristic Roman female dress

-the size

-the variety

-the complexity dari gaya rambut bangsa Roman

Pada zaman ini gaya rambut mereka mengunakan

-curling irons
-hairnets
-dyes
-switches
-hairpins
-blonde wigs made from the tresses
Satu garment yg sangat mendominasi garment pria pada period ini adalah TOGA, a
masterpiece, symbol dari Roman authority, power dan citizenship, dipakai oleh semua orang
di semua acara.

Toga for Senator with red clavi, show the high rank

Toga dibuat dari single piece of cloth without complex cutting, pinning dan stiching.

Toga biasanya berwarna off white terbuat dari wool yg di bleached, berwarna gelap jika
untuk funeral, di border dalam Tyrian purple untuk senator dan aristocrats. It was worn over a
T-shaped tunic n was usually a folded semicircle place on the left shoulder with the point
reaching to the floor. The remainder of the fabric was passed across the back, under the right
arm, and back over the left shoulder and arm in the manner of the Greek himation.

Imperial Toga : Elliptical shaped, even larger, 4-5 yards long and 3 yard wide, sometimes
made of rich silk embroidered in gold and worn over a wide sleeved embroidered tunic know
as a Dalmatic (a ceremonial garb)

Himation di bangsa Greek menjadi Palla(untuk female)atau Toga(untuk male)

Secara garis besar pakaian bangsa Roman lebih berlapis2(layer), berat(heavier), dan lebih
complicated dari bangsa Greek. Dan di period Imperial lebih mengunakan banyak sekali
bahan2, terutama di TOGA, dan mengunakan banyak sekali dekorasi
Roman Costume (Republic period)
Republican period’s silhouette

-simplicity

-soberness

-dignity

Masculine Dress

Tunic pada awal period ini tidak lebar, tangannya pun hampir tidak ada, Toga nya pun Cuma
semicircular dgn border (Praetexta)yg ber ukur 3-4 inches di pinggiran semicircular Toga.
Pada period Empire tunic menjadi lebih lebar, panjang tangan lebih panjang sampai dgn siku,
dan size untuk Toga menjadi lebih panjang..

Clavi : vertical, Tyrian purple bands down the front and back of the tunic, ini adalah tanda
penting untuk mengetahui status mereka di period Republic.

Augusta Clavi : two bands about an inch and a half wide that went over each shoulder and
down the front and back.

Latus Clavi : worn by senator, the color was Tyrian purple.

Collobium : tunic, when cut without sleeves

A shorter tunic was worn by the military, al longer one by old men.

Neatness in girding was always considered a mark of good breeding

Dibawah ini adalah beberapa outer wraps yg dipakai pada period ini

1.Lacerna : small, semicircular wraps that fastened on the right shoulder with a fibula. Made
of wooled fabric in a variety of colors, and varied from hip to calf length. It was worn over a
toga for added warmth.

2.Sagum : a short of blanket adopted by Roman soldiers during the Republic from the
mantles worn by the gauls.usually the color was red or dark colors.
3.Pallium : the Roman version of the Greek himation, was rectangular rather than semicircle
like the toga. Worn by intellectuals adn those who admired things Greek.

Square pallium worn draped loosely over a narrow-sleeved tunica

4.Paludamentum : a larger version of the Greek chlamys, was worn by generals. It was
fastened with a fibula on the right shoulder, and became even more important under the
Empire.

5.laena : semicircular and either folded in two or lined to create a warm wrap that fastened on
the right shoulder. Worn by all classes.

6.Paenula : more often worn than any other wrap, was a cape, open down the center front,
often with a peaked hood and collar(cucullus) attached. Worn by peasant, as a rain cape.
7.Casula : a poncholike outer wrap.

Male underclothing was very simple. Roman undertunic (Subucula) and under this garment
was worn a loincloth (Subigaculum) leg covering or short, tight, knee-length pair of
pants(feminalia). Worn by soldier n general for hunting and riding.

Hairstyles

Men’s hair was fairly close clipped, with the younger men having short locks on the forehead
and the nape of the neck. And then when Hadrian was reign, men were clean shaven.

The barbershop was thus a very popular place, equipment consisted:

-Razors
-Scissors
-Combs
-Tweezers
-Curling irons
-Mirrors
-Towels
-The barber’s gown

A Roman barbers were called Tonsors

Footwear

1.The solea : simple walking sandal like the Greek

2.The calcaeus : a shoe that tied over the instep with straps that wrapped around the ankle

3.The crepida : half low-cut shoe adn half laced sandal

4.Cothurnus or Caligula : a soft leather boot that laced up the front, usually with heavy turn
over at the top
Jewelry

Very limited only Fibula and Rings usually made of iron,later gold.

Goverment officials, wore gold rings used for sealing letters.

Fibula Iron ring

Feminine Dress

The Roman woman’s drss, essentially the same as that worn by the Greeks, consisted of the
tunic, now called the STOLA, usually in ionic form without an overfold.

Outer wrap, the woman wore a feminine version the Greek himation known as the
PALLA(woman’s version of Toga), the woman was never allowed to wear the toga, and the
palla usually worn over the left shoulder and under the right arm.

Underwear consisted of the interior tunic or camisa, which fitted closely to the body, and the
straphium,which was a foundation garment that supported the breasts.
Hairdressing

Hairstyle was based on Greek styles with the hair parted in the middle, softly waved and then
drawn back into a knot or chignon at the back of the neck. The great explosion in varieties of
hair styling came later during the Empire Period.

Veil or flammeum was the only covering for the hair.

Footwear

Earlier period was usually limited to the simple sandal or SOLEA, although occasionally one
sees the CALCAEUS, or shoe.

Jewelry

Very simple, limited to Fibulae that caught up the stola down the upper arm to form a sleeve
and the Wedding Ring(first made of iron and later of gold).really rich jewelry came only
under the Empire. The ring was one of the most unique jewelry items of this era. During one
period, after a defeat, the wearing of rings was banned, but when the ban was lifted, iron ring
again were worn as a sign of mourning.
All kind of rings

-the wedding rings

-seal rings
-key rings
-thumb rings
-summer rings
-winter rings
-poison ring. Which were functional and extremely lethal when used to get rid of enemy or to
commit suicide.

All rings were decorative, and the effect was enhanced when worn in multiples. Summer
rings were small and winter rings were big. Thumb ring were as lon as three inches.key rings
were worn most often by women who used them to gain access to the household store of
supplies in their charge.

Empire Period
Empire period’s silhouette

-oriental richness

-luxury

Masculine Dress

During the Empire the male tunica became fuller, even the sleevelss collobium reached from
forearm to forearm. The Clavi which had been marks on rank gradually became mere
ornamentation.

-Tunica Dalmatica(dalmatic) : the most important new tunic during this era, a wide cut

tunic with wide sleeves usually worn over the tunica talaris.

-Tunica Talaris : a tunic with tight sleeves to the wrist and skirt to the ankle, appeared for the
first time.

-Tunica Palmata : the time of Emperor Nero, a long sleeved purple tunic of floor length,
embroidered all over withi palm leaves in gold metallic thread, was worn with the
ornamental, for ceremonial occasions.

-Segmentae : important ornament devices later in Byzantine period for dress, embroidered
circles and squares placed on the shoulders and at the top front of the tunic.
The Toga also underwent changes under the Empire, particularly in size and ornamentation.

Toga’s name

-Imperial Toga : the toga worn by Emperor Tiberius

-Toga picta : for emperor

-Toga Pura or Virilis : the cream-white woolen toga of the common roman

-Toga Praetexta : purple-bordered toga of office worn by all officials of the state

Julius Caesar

-Toga Candida : the belached white toga worn by those seeking office, Any Roman man who
wanted to be elected as a magistrate had to don a spotless white toga
-Toga Pulla : the dark grey or black toga worn for funerals

-Toga Trabea a striped ceremonial toga with various color combination,such as striped purple
and scarlet toga worn by augurers

Outer garments develop under the Republic remained essentially the same under the Empire
except that richer ornamentation frequently prevailed.

Hairdressing and faces

At first remained the same until after the time of the Emperor Hadrian, when longer hair and
various trimmed beard frequently appeared.
Jewelry

Jewelry increased in richness with rings of gold, enamel and precious stone, worn on every
finger.

Millitary wear

The basic garment of the Roman soldier was the rust red, short tunic under some form of
cuirass know as a Lorica.

4 kinds of Lorica

1.the cast metal variety that repeated the form of the body in exaggerated from and was richly
decorated
2.a leather base covered with overlapoing metal scales

3.chain shirts made of iron links

4.articulated horizontal metal plates around the torso with articulated vertical links over the
shoulders

The cast metal Lorica that one sees on military leaders and emperors usually. The simple
cape form worn primarily by Roman soldiers was the Sagum, the general’s was the
Paludamentum. It was the Roman version of the Chlamys in Greek, made from rectangle of
fabric and fastened on the right shoulder with a fibula. Shields were of metal or leather,s, and
Swords were short and thick, and kept ini an ornamental scabbard with the sowerd belt hung
diagonally over the shoulder.

Feminine Dress

Feminime apparel didn’t change much except the hairstyles and patterned and motifs tended
toward rich illusionism. The feminime coiffure that the richness and elaboration seen in
imperial art and architecture makes its major contribution to feminine beauty

What does occur is much more variety in wearing under and outer stolas and in the draping
of the palla.

Roman women’s costume consisted of three simple garments :

TUNICA (underdress), STOLA (overdress), and PALLA (wrap)and SOLEA(simple sandal)

Tunica

The Tunica is the basic garment, and would be quite plain, probably white or beige.
 STOLA

The Palla is a simple rectangular drape worn for modesty and protection from the elements. It
could be worn about the shoulders as shown, or drawn over the head. Use a full width of cloth, and
hem or just fringe the ends to prevent fraying.

PALLA

-Sapparum : small shawl, used mostly at home, loose fitting, short jacket with elbow-length
sleeves.

Underwear in women dress called strophium or Zona, and Pagne(loincloth) were garments
worn at the public bath beneath the stola, used for bathing ritual or gymnastic events. When
combined, these garment made a very early version of the bikini bathing suit. The zona
(bra)was a simple band brassiere, and the Pagne(underwear) was similar to brief trunks,
shaped to fit the figure smoothly.
Accessories

-The veil(flammeum)

For official authority

-The fasces (bundle of rods enclosing an axe)

-Th scepter (carried by a consul as a symbol of his office)

-The Mappa :a handkerchief, carried by emperors and consul n waved for the beginnings of
gladiatorial contest or royal games.

Personal accessories :

-The woman’s make up table with its mirror

-Hairpins
-Curling iron
-Salves
-Cream
-Jewel boxes
-Fan
-Lamp(wick floating in oil)

Jewelry

Jewelry became more elaborate under this era, necklace, arms,,hair and girdle all covered
with emerald and pearls, jewelled tiara, rings fibulae, bracelets, necklaces, earrings, and
jewelled girdle made up the wealthy woman’s jewel collection. Made into complex patterns
and shapes by mixing gems ,gold, enamel in lay and tiny chains.
SUMMARY

Roman dress, though similar to the Greek, was based on symbolism combined with a certain
pragmatic practicality and lack the beauty and gracefull of Greek clothing at is best. Under
the Republik it remained austere,simple and symbolic. Under the Empire,however it
addes richness and the symbols of grandeur and power until late imperial dress took on
an almost Eastern magnificence in color, texture and ornament. Roman dress took the beauty
of draping that was the ideal of the Greeks and place it at the service of symbolism and power
imagery.