Ocean Waves

(Tsunami)
Compound Japanese Word
Japanese for harbor (tsu) wave (nami)

Tsunami is a set of ocean gravity waves caused by any large, abrupt

disturbance of the ocean surface.

Tsunamis are long-wavelength waves generally generated by submarine

earthquakes ,
less commonly by submarine landslides,
infrequently by submarine volcanic eruption
and very rarely by meteorite impacts.
Tsunami generation: where and how?

When two plates come into contact at a region known as a plate boundary, a
heavier plate can slip under a lighter one. This is called subduction.

In some cases of subduction, part of the seafloor connected to the lighter

plate may "snap up" suddenly due to pressure from the sinking plate. This
results in an earthquake.

Convection in the mantle drives plate motions

 Tsunami speed
Tsunamis and normal waves
g = acceleration of gravity
Tsunamis and normal waves have all of the same = 9.8 ms-1
d = water depth
parts and are measured in the same ways, but
there are many differences between the two as If water depth is
listed in the following table. 4000 meters, then

Speed = 9.8 x 4000 ms-1

= 197 ms-1
about 712 kph

Typical Tsunami Wave

vs. Typical Wind-generated Wave
Wave Feature Wind-generated Wave Tsunami Wave
5-60 mph 500-600 mph
Wave Speed
(8-100 kph) (800-1,000 kph)

Wave Period
(time required for two waves to 5 to 20 seconds apart 10 minutes to 2 hours apart
pass a single point in space)

Wave Length
300-600 feet apart 60-300 miles apart
(horizontal distance between
(100-200 meters apart) (100-500 km apart)
two waves)
Tsunami of April 1, 1946

Earthquake triggers tsunami with devastating local and distant effects

Chile earthquake, 1960
numerical simulation of tsunami
1.5 hours 16.5 hours

8.5 hours 23.5 hours

Tsunami warning systems
Because of the destructive force of tsunamis, a tsunami warning system has been set
up. It uses seismographic observations of earthquakes and calculates arrival times
around the coastlines of the oceanic basin. No warning system is available for areas in
the vicinity of the epicentre.
On December 26, 2004, a massive underwater earthquake off the coast of Indonesia's Sumatra Island
rattled the Earth in its orbit. The quake, measuring 9.0 on the Richter scale, was the largest one since 1964.
The most powerful and destructive aftermath of this devastating earthquake was the tsunami that it caused.

The shore of Banda Aceh, Sumatra,

before and after
the 2004 tsunami

Banda Aceh northern shore detail, 2004,

before and after
the tsunami
The tsunami of 26 December 2004 in the Indian Ocean. The earthquake epicentre that created it
was located off the coast of Indonesia. The close proximity to the coast ruled out any warning for
the coastal inhabitants, but loss of life in countries further afield could have been avoided if an
Indian Ocean tsunami warning system would have been in place.
A tsunami that occurred on the 17th of July 1998 off the coast of north eastern Papua New
Guinea. The earthquake epicentre that created it was located less than 50 km from the coast.
The close proximity to the coast ruled out any warning for the coastal inhabitants; one village
was destroyed, nearly 3000 villagers lost their lives. The animation shows the first 2 hours of
tsunami propagation.
 Tsunami Risk Zones
Tsunami Alarm System
 Tsunami Source Regions

Seismicity in Indonesia (1964-1995)

Predictions

 Scientists are constantly trying to learn new ways to predict the behavior of tsunamis.

 At this point, most data is gathered after a tsunami has already done its damage.

 In a post-tsunami survey, a number of things are measured.

 Scientists are particularly interested in the inundation and run-up features after the waves
strike land.

 Inundation is the maximum horizontal distance penetrated inland.

 Run-up is the maximum vertical distance above the sea level that the waves reached.

 Inundation and run-up are often determined by measuring the distance of killed vegetation,
scattered debris along the land.

 Tsunamis are detected by open-ocean buoys and coastal tide gauges, which report information
to stations within the region.

 Tide gauge stations measure minute changes in sea level, and seismograph stations record
earthquake activity. Evacuation procedures in these areas are then implemented if a
threatening tsunami passes through the gauge stations.
Deep-Ocean Assessment and Reporting of Tsunamis (DART)
The Deep-Ocean Assessment and Reporting of
Tsunamis (DART) uses unique pressure recorders that
sit on the ocean bottom. These recorders are used to
detect slight changes in the overlying water pressure.
The DART system is capable of detecting a tsunami as
small as a centimeter high above the sea level.

To monitor and predict the ongoing threat of

tsunamis, Tsunami warning centers have been
established, for example,

Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC), located in

Ewa Beach, HI

West Coast & Alaska Tsunami Warning Center

(ATWC) in Palmer, AK, serves the Aleutian Islands area
along with British Columbia, Washington state,
Oregon and California.

Indian Ocean Tsunami Warning System

Coastal waters

Relatively shallow areas that adjoin continents

Heavily used for commerce, recreation, fisheries and
waste disposal
Experience dramatic changes in salinity and temperature
Estuaries
Estuaries are partially enclosed coastal bodies of water,
associated with a constant supply of nutrients and organic
matter.
Examples of estuaries include:
River mouths, Bays, Inlets, Gulfs, and sounds
Lagoons
Lagoons are shallow coastal bodies of water separated
from the ocean by a narrow strip of land such as a barrier
island
Coastal wetlands
Coastal wetlands are saturated areas that border coastal
environments
Two most important types of coastal wetlands
Salt marches (low/mid-latitudes)
Mangrove swamps (low latitudes)
The value of coastal wetlands
Coastal wetlands are highly productive areas that serve as
fish nurseries for many important species
Effectively filter polluted runoff from land
Problem: are viewed as worthless land, so are often
replaced with developments (roads, houses, shopping etc.)