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Trouble Shooting electrics

The charge pressure switch has a NO and a NC connection. Normally open and
normally closed. The normally closed is for the low charge pressure light and the NO
is for the hour meter. Normal being engine not running. The senders supply a
ground rather than a +12V. Does the hour meter work? It is on the NO connection of
the switch.

there are two ways a fuse blows the first is when the positive connects straight to
earth and blows the fuse
the second when the circuit is over loaded and you'll see the fuse wire melt

you need to follow the lead from the fuse (which blows) and inspect it very carefully
and if you find no fault between the fuse and the starter/solenoid, then you will
need to disconnect it at the starter end, protect the free end of the lead very
carefully with insulating tape and re try to start the engine. The fault either is still
there or is gone.

If gone then it is internal to the starter/solenoid and you will need to remove the
starter for further inspection. :(

If when the lead is disconnected (and insulated carefully) and you try to restart the
engine and the fuse still blows, you have a short to earth between the fuse and some
metal (earth) on the engine block

Best to have no wires that leave the positive terminal on the battery that don't
have an in-line fuse connected within a few inches.

it's likely with a battery cable running to the starter or solenoid or...?
check wiring for/around the alternator rubbing and causing the main fuse to blow

Take your VOM and put it to Ohms x 10 range. Ground one lead of the meter to the
motor.
Now take the other lead and attach it somehow to the female part of the fuse holder
on the side away from the battery input.

Your meter should read some sort of low resistance.

Now wiggle wires until your meter jumps around. That will tell you that you are
close to the problem. Someone may have to watch the meter for you.

Glow plugs are simple to check if you have a multi-meter. Set it to measure
resistance (ohms). Remove the buss bar or wire loom that connects the three plugs
together. Measure resistance on plug #1 between the outside tip and the engine
block. Record the reading. Repeat for #2 and #3. If I recall, a good plug should
measure about 1.5 ohms. I suspect you'll find one or more readings below 1.1 ohms.

add external relay and 30 amp circuit breaker in-line to protect NEW plugs.

Nev'rSeize, a graphite/copper compound that prevents threads seizing or galling,

particularly when used in hot locations.

In order for a fuse to protect this circuit it has to be placed in the path between the
alternator output and the battery.

A 3/0 Cu cable, with 105 deg. insulation, is rated at about 350 Amps.
Fuse to the size of the wire!

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Best Wiring:
Large wire with ample sized fuse in line from battery to relay,
same size wire from relay to glow plugs,
smaller wire from relay to push button switch and back to relay.
Shield wires and make good solid connections.

I used a momentary push button and the Ford relay which makes a loud thunk when
the relay closes or opens. This confirms when the relay is energized and acts like a
safety, at least for me.

In this diagram substitute the starter for your glow plugs. Your glow plugs being all
tied together, will be connected to your relay on the switched side. With a typical
starter relay, you will have two heavy wires and two skinny wires.

One skinny wire is just ground.(black, in the diagram pin 85) The other skinny wire
will be connected to your switch(pin 86). Should be red or purple if a gm relay.
This is your control circuit.

The heavy wires: one connected straight to the hot side of your battery (pin 30 in
diagram). The other side goes to your glow plug harness (pin 87).
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Parts:
1- Push button switch
1- Add-a-circuit fuse tap
20'- 14 ga. wire
3- ring connectors
1- Butt connector
Several zip ties
Drill w/ 5/8" bit

drill a 5/8" hole for the switch.

Find a circuit in your fuse box to tap into for power.
I chose this 10 amp spot because it always has power. Install your Add-a-circuit
with a 10 amp fuse in it.
I routed my wire (push button to GP solenoid) through the same hole that the
speedometer cable runs through. Make sure you leave enough inside the truck to
reach your new switch.
Route the wire (push button to GP solenoid) along the back of the engine
compartment, zip tying it up and out of the way.
Install a ring connector on the end of your wire (push button to GP solenoid) at the
solenoid.
Pull the purple wire (factory GP controller to GP solenoid) off of the solenoid.
Install the wire (push button to GP solenoid) onto the exposed post and pin it down
with the purple wire (factory GP controller to GP solenoid).

*Note*
If you want to eliminate the factory GP controller altogether, leave the purple wire
off and find a small nut the appropriate size for the post and nut down the ring
connector.
If you want to bypass the GP controller completely, you need to leave the purple
wire off and put a nut on the stud to hold your manual switch wire down.

The switch I used is a 15 amp push button switch I got from Autozone.
Cut a piece of wire long enough to go from your new switch to your Add-a-circuit in
the fuse box. Strip the ends of the wires (both the push button switch to GP solenoid
and push button switch to Add-a-circuit) and install one on each of the terminals of
the switch. It doesn't matter which one goes where.
Strip the other and of your short wire (push button switch to Add-a-circuit) and
hook it up to the Add-a-circuit.
Finally, mount your switch through the hole and put the under dash cover back in
place. I had to trim mine a little to clear the switch.
Now, your factory controller will still run your GP's but if you need an extra couple
seconds, you can manually activate them.

Total time was about 20 minutes and total cost was less than $20.