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I N !O
W PV E
ID
FLI ERA
L A
CAMS TABLE
EF’
L CH OR SIXE
F
ERR
AT V
RUGBY
SEVENS
2010
A T NT
K
M
S K N
NN I
A A PR
DISCOVER DUBAI’S
Y
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Contents
Features
17 34
7s heaven Yasalam
The boys are back F1 is roars into the
in town for the Dubai capital and this year
Rugby 7s Prince, Kanye West and
Linkin Park are coming
25 along for the party. We
Life's a beach give you the low-down
We go in search of
Dubai's best beach 40
clubs Curry collection
We prepared our
30 palates and overdosed
Dubai World on the spicy stuff to find
Championship Dubai’s 30 best curries
p40
Ones to watch in the
golf tournament, plus
we chat with Louis
Oosthuizen
p25
NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 3
The round-up
67 91
Art Music & clubs
Beautiful People in Band of the month
Bastakiya, going green Juliana Down and
in Al Quoz and five to what's happening in
see this month clubland
74 97
Shopping Travel
Pay attention men, Going long haul in
Sophia says you ARE Catalonia, relaxation,
judged by your shoes, Sri Lankan style,
plus our essential explorer Adrian Hayes’
beach reads top tips and November's
best deals
77
Mind & body 111
Jet lag treatments, Hot list
haircuts, LPG magic Dubai's top bars,
and a trip to Jasmine restaurants, brunches
Spa and spas
86 130
Sport & outdoor Backchat
p47
Our running mission Catboy on how he'll
continues, plus Mr face his midlife crisis
Fitness tackles your
health questions
14
Salaam
What's what in Dubai
in November
44
Films
Our verdict on George
Clooney's starring role
in The American, plus
Burke & Hare, Saw 3D
and more
47
Eating out
La Petite Maison,
cooking with Vineet
Bhatia, 12 new
brunches and The
Critic on why fresh
is best
65
Competitions
Get your hands on
prizes including
p77
brunches, dinners
and energy drinks. For
more, see pages 72, 94
and 128
so
"… Lot
MALL TIMINGS: Saturday to Wednesday: 10am – 10pm. Thursday and Friday: 10am – midnight.
For more details contact Guest Services on 04 – 436 1020
"… Entertainment for
every
one
…"
Editor
Mark Evans | marke@motivate.ae
Deputy Editor
Helen Spearman | helen@motivate.ae
Features Editor Karting with Juliana Down, p91
Gareth Rees | gareth@motivate.ae
Chief Sub Editor
Iain Smith | iains@motivate.ae
Senior Designer
Sheila Lyn Carino | sheila@motivate.ae
Editorial Assistant/Picture Researcher
Karen Sequeira | karen@motivate.ae
Picture Researcher - Gulfpics
Wayne Fernandez | wayne@motivate.ae
Contributors
Naveed Ahmed, Victor Besa, James Brennan,
Louise Browne, Stef Burgon, Vikram Gawde,
Rubbing shoulders with Gordon Testing curries,
Robbie Greenfield, James Houghton, Catherine Ramsay, p55 p40
Jarvie, Russell Kempson, Richard Luck, Farooq
Editor’s note
Salik, Simon Smedley, Sophia Triantafillou,
Tom Watterson, Adam Workman
General Manager
Production and Circulation
S Sasidharan | sasidharan@motivate.ae Can I be completely honest? I’m not really a rugby fan. It’s not my
Production Manager
Sudhakar Chandran | sudhakar@motivate.ae fault – I’m from a part of the UK that’s obsessed with one sport, and
Production Controller one sport alone, and that’s football. The idea of spending any time
Murali Krishnan | muralik@motivate.ae
at all watching a sport other than the beautiful game – and my
General Manager – Group Sales beloved Sunderland, specifically – just seems, well, weird. Yet the
Anthony Milne | anthony@motivate.ae longer I live in the Emirates, the more I’m becoming embroiled in the
Senior Advertisement Manager
Dale Isaac | dale@motivate.ae whole brouhaha that is the rugby sevens.
Advertisement Manager I remember my first visit, some five years ago, at the old Exiles ground. New to Dubai
Varsha Bhatia | varsha@motivate.ae
and already badly missing my footy fix, I thought I’d give it a whirl; see what all the
General Manager, Abu Dhabi
Joe Marrit | joe@motivate.ae noise was about. Talk about an eye-opener. Where were the mounted police? What
Advertisement Manager, Abu Dhabi about the gangs of grown men trying to kill each other? And what were those
Darryl Wiley | darryl@motivate.ae
Australians doing, laughing and joking and singing songs? Were they drunk? They
Annual Subscription GCC Dhs120 other countries US$70 looked spangled – but kind of ‘happy spangled’. I’m not going to lie to you – I didn’t
(including Airmail charges)
like it. I didn’t like it one little bit. At one stage, some people, complete strangers,
yeah, they just said ‘hi’. Hi. That was it – like they knew me and were just having fun?
Weird, man, I’m telling you.
Five years later and I’m coming around to the idea. My footy obsession in hand,
thanks to live games on TV, I’m able to acknowledge that there are other sports out
Head Office: PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE there. And as a well-rounded individual, not to mention What’s On editor (OK, just as
Tel: +971 4 282 4060, Fax: +971 4 282 4436,
E-mail: motivate@motivate.ae What’s On editor, one out of two ain’t bad), I can appreciate the rugby sevens for what
Dubai Media City: Office 508, 5th Floor, it is – a really fun weekend. Let’s face it, the sevens is a Dubai institution; it’s about so
Building 8, Dubai, UAE,
Tel: +971 4 390 3550, Fax: +971 4 390 4845 much more than just a game of rugby. And this year, like tens of thousands of others,
Abu Dhabi: PO Box 43072, UAE, I’ll be there, amongst all the action and the excitement of a great weekend.
Tel: +971 2 677 2005, Fax: +971 2 677 0124,
E-mail: editor-wo@motivate.ae Just don’t expect me to wear a rugby shirt.
London: Acre House, 11/15 William Road,
London NW1 3ER, UK,
E-mail: motivateuk@motivate.ae Enjoy the issue.
Salaam!
Follow us at WhatsOnDubai for
exclusive updates on nightlife,
restaurants and more around the
UAE. Tweet yourself.
Petite November
Experts are claiming that the UAE is going to you’re sure to rock the boat. We soon found our
see prices rise because the dirham is pegged sea legs, that’s for sure. Anchors away, aye-aye,
to the slumping dollar and a global currency captain and shiver me timbers.
war is taking place. In layman’s terms. Prices Jebel Ali Golf Resort & Spa, Jebel Ali, Dubai.
could rise. Tel: (04) 8145108. www.jebelali-international.com
BRYAN ADAMS
Dec 17
All we want for Christmas is 1980s
AMBER LOUNGE SCREENWRITING CLASSES musical legends, apparently. With
You’ll do well to bag one of the The old adage is that we all have a novel Guns N’ Roses set to play Yas Island
few remaining tickets, either for the opening in us. But these days it seems we all have a in December, rocker Bryan Adams has
Friday night or the closing Sunday evening, movie. If you want to persuade the money also decided to stop off during his world tour.
but if you do, expect to be in amongst the men that your probing exploration of the Dec 17, Dubai World Trade Centre Arena,
stars. Aerosmith's Steve Tyler and Hollywood effects of the financial crisis on a family of Dubai, from 7pm, Dhs250 to 500.
actress Neve Campbell graced the lounge in camels is a winner, you’ll need some help. Tel: (04) 3913460
2009. We expect to see more stars this year. Sign up to screenwriter David Tully’s (The
If we can get in. Witching Hour) four-week course and maybe
Nov 12 and 14, Hiltonia Beach Club, Hilton you’ll see your film in the cinema one day. Find us at
Abu Dhabi, Dhs76,000 for a table of eight. Nov 27, SAE Institute Dubai. Tel: (04) 3616173 www.facebook.com/WhatsOnDubai
www.amber-lounge.com www.dubai.sae.edu
Lunch 12.30pm - 2.30pm à la carte starting from AED 150 per person
Business Lunch 12.30pm - 2.30pm starting from AED 395 per person
Friday Brunch* 10.00am - 3.00pm starting from AED 395 per person
* Visit Al Muntaha for Friday Brunch at AED 525 per person between 10am – 12pm and receive a
complimentary Wild Wadi voucher each valid for 6 months.
Dinner 7.00pm - 12.00am à la carte starting from AED 230 per person
Dinner Degustation Menu 7.00pm - 12.00am 8-course menu starting from AED 745 per person
jumeirah.com
The
magnificent
Sevens
As the hot-potch fleet of vehicles cruises up
7...
the Al Ain Road, luxury coaches breezing past
rickety old mini-buses and gleaming 4x4s
Things
burning off the stretch limos and taxis, it is
one of the strangest migrations out of the city
that make
that Dubai ever sees.
But, then, the Emirates Airline Dubai Rugby
Sevens is no ordinary event. It is not only an
annual glimpse of top-class sport at its best,
but also a multicultural, multifaceted festival
Sevens
that brings together every class of humanity.
From the oval-ball fanatics to the oil barons; special
from networking banking execs to awe-struck 1) They only play seven minutes each
young families; and from ladies who normally way...
do lunch to excitable teenagers seeking a new
thrill. The Sevens is just unique. 2) Except in the final where the halves NUMBER OF TOURNAMENTS
From December 2 to 4, all are welcome at the last TEN minutes.
THAT COMPRISE THE IRB
The Sevens stadium, the purpose-built arena
which is likely to fill its 50,000 capacity on every 3) During the knock-out stages, drawn
WORLD SEVENS SERIES
day of the 72-hour extravaganza. And learning matches are resolved by playing five
the words of the choruses of Sweet Caroline, We minutes extra time.
Will Rock You and maybe a bit of The Proclaimers
is an absolute must if you want to feel at home 4) All kicks at goal, including penalties
amid the raucous masses. and conversions, must be drop goals.
Do not be afraid to improvise, either.
Brandishing inflatable Springboks is a 5) Players who receive yellow cards are
favourite pastime for some South Africa fans. 'sin binned' for two minutes.
And it might get you noticed around the
6) Sides can name five substitutes, three
ILLUSTRATIONS: LINDA COULTER
7…
Players to
watch this
year
MIKAELE PESAMINO
The Samoan try machine was one of the main
reasons the Islanders claimed their first World
Sevens title last season.
LUKE MORAHAN
After eons in the sevens doldrums, the Wallabies
are back in the running thanks to young talents
such as Robbie Coleman and Luke Morahan.
TOMASI CAMA
He shares his name and his flair with his Fijian
legend father. However, Cama’s carving out a
major name for himself in All Black colours.
DJ FORBES
There’s a reason New Zealand start every IRB
Sevens season as favourite for the overall title: it’s
because of quality players like Derek 'DJ' Forbes.
RHYS WEBB
A scrum-half with pace and guile in equal
measure, Webb played a pivotal role in Wales’
shock World Cup Sevens victory in Dubai in
2009.
ISOA DAMU
Fijian-born but playing in England’s colours,
the pride of the British Army is one of the most
dominating forwards in the game today.
GETTY/GALLO IMAGES
BEN GOLLINGS
Described as the 'Sachin Tendulkar of sevens'
during the Delhi Commonwealth Games, you
can expect the England ace to add to his world
record points total.
Down to
business
England’s head coach en route to the second leg in George, South
Ben Ryan reveals to Africa.
Still, Ben Gollings, the England captain
What’s On why his lads are and sevens points-scoring legend, and
here for glory, not a party his colleagues should get some R&R at a
midweek barbecue that is also likely to be
There will be many bizarre sights to see – by attended by the South Africa team. “It’ll be a
day and night – when the Emirates Airline nice social get-together,” Ryan observed. “But
Dubai Rugby Sevens hits town. Some we’ll still knock six bells out of each other
hilarious, some not. But do not expect any when we get on the pitch!”
England player to be involved in the off-the- An indication of how seriously the Rugby
pitch fun and frolics. Football Union in England now treats
Ben Ryan, the England head coach, runs sevens can be gauged by it awarding central
a tight ship with high jinks – especially of contracts to eight players, including Gollings.
the nocturnal variety – not on his agenda. It It eliminates the club-versus-country
is highly unlikely that the Irish Village will dilemma that Ryan and Mike Friday, his
receive an after-dark visit from any member predecessor, often faced. Ryan now has first
of his 12-man squad. call on his players.
Ryan, 39, is not a killjoy. Far from it. He And an indication of Ryan’s passion for the
appreciates the value of down time during the sport can be gauged by the angst frequently dressed as a Viking. “The horn on his helmet
frenetic two-day senior tournament and, as a etched across his face when he conducts his gave me a pretty dead leg!” he said.
former player, readily recognises the need for post-match interviews, especially if England And he is quick to accept the eye-catching
rest and recuperation. have performed poorly or have been on the sexiness of sevens to the rugby womenfolk
Yet as sevens rugby has progressed from wrong end of a contentious decision. He lives around the world. “Yes, the players are mostly
merely an ugly sister of the traditional 15-a- every bone-crunching tackle and try-scoring good-looking lads and all are in good shape,”
side game to an attractive and full-time sport scamper along the touchline. Ryan conceded with a chuckle. “And, yes, they
in its own right, there is little room for extra- Mind you, he did see the funny side do run around in such tight-fitting kit.”
curricular activities. of things when, playing for Cambridge Ryan’s eyes are on success with England.
“When one player does the wrong thing, University in the Varsity match at To better the disappointing fifth-place
it’s like an advanced rash,” Ryan said. “You Twickenham, he was tackled by a spectator finish in the World Series last season; to get
just can’t stop it. There’s no curfews, I’m not over the dismay of narrowly losing out on
like that, but there are rules and the guys have a bronze medal when finishing fourth in
got to adhere to them. And they do. They’re a the Commonwealth Games in Delhi; and
very good bunch. to prepare for the Olympic Games debut of
“I don’t know, in my playing days, if I sevens in London in 2012.
could have been as professional as some of With an essentially young and now settled
my 20-year-olds are now. It might be a party squad, victory in Dubai could prove a small
atmosphere in Dubai, but we won’t be there stepping stone. “We were a bit depressed in
to party. We’ve got a job to do. Delhi, a bit down,” Ryan revealed. “We all felt
“It’s going to be a dry fortnight for us. that we wanted to get to Dubai straight away.
Going out for a few beers just doesn’t feel We were already salivating about the prospect
right. You can’t go out into the early hours of going.
and expect to perform the next day. It just “I do love the place, the whole event. We
doesn’t work like that.” get phenomenal support from the huge expat
Even if England should win the event – community, it’s almost like being at home,
the first leg of the 2010/11 HSBC Sevens and the stadium will be rocking for the big
World Series for the first time since 2005, the games. All of that spurs us on. We’ve worked
celebrations will be low-key, too. A sore head TEAMS WHO’LL CONTEST really hard to get where we are and we’re just
is not the best way to prepare for an early- THIS YEAR’S TOURNAMENT seeing the fruits. We want to win in Dubai,
morning flight to Cape Town the next day, IN DUBAI we want to win the World Series.”
ROCK BOTTOM
Not only popular with fans, the Regent’s
Palace hotel, where Rock Bottom is based,
is also a favourite with the big international
teams travelling over to play in the sevens.
With the usual line-up of karaoke and DJs on
Friday, as well as a live band on the Saturday,
playing all your favourite sevens anthems,
Rock Bottom is the perfect party place for after
the rugby action. Just go easy on the bullfrogs.
If it was a team, it would be: Wales – Tonnes
of fun and a song is never too far away
Regent Palace Hotel, Trade Centre Road, Bur CAREER POINTS SCORED BY FIJIAN SEVENS
Dubai, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3963888 LEGEND WAISALE SEREVI
WHERE? WHERE?
LE MÉRIDIEN MINA LE ROYAL MÉRIDIEN
SEYAHI BEACH BEACH RESORT & SPA
RESORT Maya, the upmarket Mexican restaurant
Feel like you’re on holiday in the heart of the at this beachfront beauty, has topped our
city with a day at one of Dubai’s best-loved brunch Hot List and now the weather is
shore-side hotels. Home to Barasti, the city’s cooler we think it’s time to rediscover its
largest private beach, five outdoor pools, 14 charms.
restaurants, massive grounds and a huge range WHAT’S INCLUDED?
of water sports, this is an obvious pick for wiling On Fridays from 10am to 6pm you’ll get
away a day catching rays. access to three swimming pools and the
WHAT’S INCLUDED? beach, then enjoy lunch from Maya on the
In addition to the beach and pools, you’re terrace from 1pm to 4pm, while a live DJ
guaranteed a sunbed, umbrella and towels. and Mariachi band provides the soundtrack.
Children can get involved in the Penguin Club There’s 30 per cent discount on drinks, too.
where they can try snorkelling, soft play, jewellery HOW MUCH?
making and movies. Meanwhile, adults can hit the Dhs300 for the day, including lunch.
beach for activities including kayaking (Dhs40 for DETAILS
30 minutes), waterskiing (Dhs150 for 15 minutes) Le Royal Méridien Beach Resort & Spa, Dubai
and lasers (Dhs140 for an hour). Marina, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3165550
HOW MUCH?
Dhs175 or Dhs100 for children on weekdays,
and Dhs250 or Dhs150 for children at
weekends. Under-fours are free.
DETAILS
Le Méridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort, Dubai Marina, The Cove Rotana
Dubai. Tel: (04) 3993333. www.starwoodhotels.com
WHERE? WHERE?
THE COVE ROTANA, JEBEL ALI GOLF
RAS AL KHAIMAH RESORT & SPA
It’s a village-style resort built into a This grassy spot is a long-time expat
hillside overlooking the sea, with villa favourite, but a recent renovation means it’s
accommodation boasting private pools. It’s pulling in new additions, too. Truly family-
well worth a stay, but it’s only an hour’s drive friendly, it’s 15 minutes from Dubai Marina
from Dubai and offers a quiet day in the sun and a world away from the skyscraper scene.
if that’s all you’re after. WHAT’S INCLUDED?
WHAT’S INCLUDED? Your day pass gets you access to the gardens,
There are two packages. The Beach Day 800m of private beach, three pools and 15
pass gets you access to the 600m beach and restaurants. You’ll get towels, sunbeds and
two infinity pools, a voucher (for Dhs50 at umbrellas for lounging, plus water polo,
weekends or Dhs30 on weekdays) to spend beach volleyball and football if you’re feeling
on massage treatments or food and drink at a bit active. Children are the real winners here
the resort. The other option is the Swim & though, with three to 12 year olds getting
Dine offer, which includes a huge lunch buffet access to the supervised CoolZone which
at international restaurant Cinnamon, then offers free activities from face painting to fish
all-day use of the pools and beach. Towels are feeding for younger ones to PS3 challenges
included, but you’ll have to get there early and water sports for over-sixes.
for sunbeds and umbrellas. Watersports are HOW MUCH?
available at extra cost and there are a number Weekdays cost Dhs180 per person, weekends
of dining options from beach bars to Basilico, Dhs220 and you can pay Dhs300 for access
a rather smart Italian with a lovely terrace. plus a barbecue lunch.
HOW MUCH? DETAILS
Beach Day pass is Dhs150 at weekends or Jebel Ali Golf Resort & Spa, Dubai.
Dhs100 during the week, while Swim & Tel: (04) 8145555. www.jebelali-international.com
Dine costs Dhs220 at weekends, Dhs175 on
weekdays and Dhs100 for under-12s. WHERE?
DETAILS
The Cove Rotana, Ras Al Khaimah.
LE MÉRIDIEN AL
Tel: (07) 2066000. www.rotana.com AQAH BEACH RESORT,
FUJAIRAH
A must-do mini-break, this hotel’s pool is either
a tranquil retreat or party zone, depending on
the day. Live music, giant frozen cocktails, a
swim-up bar, day trips and cracking poolside
cuisine create a daylong staycation to remember.
WHAT’S INCLUDED?
The hotel’s Day Out package gives you access
to the huge pool and lengthy beach, plus
loungers and towels. On Fridays you’ll also
get a buffet lunch. Adults can get involved in
free activities including water volleyball, beach
volleyball, and aqua aerobics, while children
are welcome at the Penguin Club, where they
can try pizza making, T-shirt painting and
visit the mini zoo to see the rabbits. Water
sports are also available at additional costs,
with a full-day Discover Scuba course priced at
Dhs550, boat trips to Musandam for Dhs300
and snorkelling session for Dhs150.
HOW MUCH?
Dhs100 on weekdays and Dhs50 for children
aged six to 12. Under sixes get free pool and
beach access but will be charged Dhs50 for the
Penguin Club. On Fridays you can pay Dhs199 for
pool access and buffet lunch. Bargain.
DETAILS:
Le Méridien Al Aqah Beach
Le Méridien Al Aqah Beach Resort Resort, Fujairah. Tel: (09) 2449000.
www.starwoodhotels.com
WHERE? WHERE?
HABTOOR GRAND ONE&ONLY ROYAL
RESORT & SPA MIRAGE
At the heart of Dubai Marina, the five-star Surely one of the most stunning hotels in
Habtoor Grand has had a resurgence of late, Dubai, the One&Only is an Arabian style
with the Horizon pool bar attracting low-key tribute to luxury. Designed for the winter
revellers and party people packing out the months, many of it restaurants come to life
Friday brunch at The Grand Grill. It’s in when the cooler weather starts, with Beach
the perfect spot for a day of lazing, a quick Bar & Grill and Eauzone becoming hot
change then hitting up some nearby bars with property. For a taste of the good life, pay for
your new suntan. a day pass and pull up a lounger. They even
WHAT’S INCLUDED? clean your sunglasses, for Pete’s sake.
You’ll get access to the large private beach, WHAT’S INCLUDED?
two pools and landscaped gardens, plus You’ll get access to the pool and beach
towels, sun loungers and umbrellas. Activities facilities at both The Palace and Arabian
such as beach volleyball and football kick-off Court from 6.30am to 7pm, sunbeds,
during cooler afternoons, and there’s also showers, towels and water. Children can enjoy
water sports available at extra cost, including the playgrounds, while the grown-ups can
20 minutes of waterskiing for Dhs200, turn their hand to snorkelling, sailing and
parasailing for Dhs250 and an hour of more at the boathouse at additional cost.
kayaking for Dhs50. HOW MUCH?
HOW MUCH? It’s not cheap at Dhs250 per person when
Weekends (Thursday to Saturday) and you book ahead, or Dhs300 for walk-in
public holidays cost Dhs175 and Dhs125 for guests. Children between three and 11 years
children, or Dhs150 and Dhs100 for children of age are charged at Dhs175, with under-
during the week. threes free.
DETAILS DETAILS
Habtoor Grand Resort & Spa, Dubai Marina, One&Only Royal Mirage, Dubai Marina,
One&Only Royal Mirage Dubai. Tel: (04) 3995000. Dubai. Tel: (04) 3999999.
www. grandjumeirah.habtoorhotels.com www.royalmirage.oneandonlyresorts.com
WHERE? WHERE?
SHERATON JUMEIRAH HILTON DUBAI HATTA
BEACH RESORT JUMEIRAH (CHLORINATED)
Situated at the end of The Walk at JBR, Wavebreaker’s is a What’s On favourite for
POOLS
the Sheraton is a little more peaceful than a sandwich in the sun, or beer on the deck Hatta Fort Hotel might not have a beach,
other beachside offerings. Boasting a wide, while watching the sunset. The only place at but the stunning views of the mountains
palm-lined beach, lush gardens and plenty of the Hilton we love more is the swim-up bar, and a bargain pool day deal might steal
activities, this is a family-friendly choice for a cocktail in hand. Oh happy days. you away from the sands. From Saturday
day in the sun. WHAT’S INCLUDED? to Thursday, pool access costs Dhs50 (or
WHAT’S INCLUDED? That swim-up bar is all yours as part of Dhs30 for children), while the weekends
Children are well catered for, with story the pool pass. You’ll also be able to use the will set you back Dhs90 and Dhs50
telling, Wii, arts, crafts and movies all gardens, private beach, get towels, loungers for junior sun seekers. Included in the
going on. Outside, you’ll be able to use the and umbrellas and have access to the hotel’s price are umbrellas, lockers, changing
pools and beach, with sun loungers and many restaurants. There’s even a golf buggy room access, cold towels, fruit, children’s
towels thrown in. The weekly entertainment that delivers cold drinks, ice creams and games and use of the two temperature
schedule offers a swimming clinic, water shisha up and down the beach. Very civilised controlled pools from 9am to 6pm.
sports and sand castle building so call ahead indeed. If you’re in the mood for action then Hatta Fort Hotel, Hatta. Tel: (04) 8099333.
to see what’s happening. a range of water sports are available at an www.jebelali-international.com
HOW MUCH? additional cost.
It’s a mere Dhs100 during the week, or HOW MUCH?
Dhs60 for those aged between five and Thursday to Saturday a pass will set you
16. Come the weekend, it will set you back back Dhs250, or Dhs180 from Sunday Hilton Dubai Jumeirah
Dhs180 or Dhs100 for children. to Wednesday. Access for children costs
DETAILS Dhs95 throughout the week.
Sheraton Jumeirah Beach Resort, Dubai DETAILS
Marina, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3995533. Hilton Dubai Jumeirah, Dubai Marina, Dubai.
www.starwoodhotels.com Tel: (04) 3991111. www.hilton.com
3'$1 "$3.3'$
3'$#4! (6.1+#
The nail biting climax of
European golf’s big cash
tournament The Race To
Dubai goes down right here
6' 3(2(3
Newly crowned Ryder Cup heroes, fresh from
their victory in Wales, together with the other
60 best golfers on the European Tour will
return to Dubai’s Jumeirah Golf Estates this
month to compete for a staggering $15 million
in the second instalment of the new Order of
Merit Finale. Last year, current World Number
Two Lee Westwood produced a majestic four
rounds of golf on Greg Norman’s purpose-built
Earth course to fend off the challenge from
plucky young Irishman Rory McIlroy and
win both the inaugural Race To Dubai and
the Championship, but this year it is German
superstar Martin Kaymer in the driving seat.
It has been a truly sensational 12 months
for European golf. After clinging desperately
for so long to the coat tails of the US PGA
juggernaut, the Tour now boasts the victorious
Ryder Cup team, three out of four of this
year’s major champions – Martin Kaymer, 3'$$-3$13 (-,$-3 A good week here could literally transform
Graeme McDowell and affable South African The Dubai World Championship surprised a golfer’s career. And with so many great
Louis Oosthuizen – and Lee Westwood, the everyone last year. So often these finales fail players near the top of the standings, a tense
new World Number One in waiting. Even if to match the hype, and the initial omens finish is almost guaranteed.
the Race to Dubai has apparently failed in its weren’t promising. Badly affected by the
bid to attract major US stars to take up a joint global economic meltdown, the unfinished (3¨2%1$$
membership of both tours, there can be no residential development surrounding the Those humanitarian folk at Jumeirah Golf
doubt that the new format has helped revitalise course drew heavy criticism from the UK Estates and DP World are offering free entry
a circuit that now visits 26 countries. press, but Jumeirah Golf Estates ultimately to spectators for the second year running,
staged a superb tournament with a ensuring big crowds and a great atmosphere.
6'8&. compelling plot and a great champion in Lee
Westwood. The novel viewing stations on the 3'$".412$
3'$ ++23 1" 23 course (including the Left Bank bar on the Greg Norman’s Earth course received
For the chance to see a golden generation of 17th hole) and lively entertainment in the mixed reviews from the players last year
European golfers who have the potential to village capped a memorable debut but there is no denying the heavily hyped
break all manner of records for the continent. final four holes provided a worthy stage for
Nick Faldo and his six major championships 3'$#1 , the thrilling finish. Rory McIlroy will not
remains the benchmark, but there are several Because this is the climax to the entire have fond memories of the treacherous par
young players – not least Kaymer and the season, there is so much more to play for 4 16th, while almost everybody struggled
precociously talented Rory McIlroy – who have than if it were a regular tournament. As well with the long, difficult 18th closer. It will be
the potential to eclipse the English legend. With as the tournament purse of $7.5 million, interesting to see if the Tour moves the tee
both players focusing increasingly on the big there is a further $7.5 million in bonus cash forward on this monster to present the big
tournaments in America, our advice is to make for those who manage to secure a top 15 hitters with the temptation of going for the
the most of them. spot in the final Race to Dubai standings. creek-guarded green in two.
3'$$7/$13¨2/("*
.%3'$/+ 8$12 ROBBIE GREE
EDITOR, GOLF
NFIELD
DIGEST
++' (+
*(-&+.4(2
Open champion senstion
Louis Oosthuizen
dubaiworldchampionship.com
difficult for anyone to catch him. I feel I’m Oosthuizen is due to return in the
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The pit stop
parties
There’s more to F1 than
cars. As the capital’s motor
sports bonanza returns, so
does the series of gigs and
concerts that is Yasalam
An intimate
evening
with…
For anybody who noticed a testosterone-
heavy slant to Yasalam’s flagship gigs (Prince,
Kanye West and Linkin Park), feminine help
is at hand over the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix
weekend thanks to an intimate three-night
stand at The Yas Hotel.
The soulful tones of Gabrielle (November
12) kick things off, a genuine popstar in her
native UK during the 1990s after debut single
Dreams hit number one. Recent years haven’t
treated her so kindly, though a new studio
album is reportedly underway.
Sugababes (November 13) are
unrecognisable from the fresh-faced teen girls
that in 2000 embarked on the most successful
career of any 21st century female act thus far.
It’s more than simply growing up, however:
all the original members have since quit.
After parting ways with rapper Jay-Z’s Roc
Nation label in March, the new-look trio are
working on their next LP.
Corinne Bailey Rae (November 14) has
courageously risen from the ashes this year,
meanwhile, tackling her husband’s death with
sophomore album The Sea. Though failing
to replicate her multi-million-selling debut
record’s success, it did win favour with critics,
picking up a Mercury Prize nomination and
countless plaudits en route.
Nov 12 to 14, Longitude Bar, The Yas Hotel, Yas
Island, Abu Dhabi, Dhs800. www.theyashotel.com
On himself
“I’ve learnt to accept what God
has given me, without covering
it up with ego.”
On personal hygiene
“At the crib I use really nice napkins
instead of paper towels. Got the
idea from the YSL bathroom.
On music
“Sometimes I think in the back of
Date: November 12 my mind (I know that’s redundant)
In terms of building anticipation for album
releases, few artists can compete with
“Man, ninjas are I wonder what Thom Yorke’s doing
right now?”
Chicago’s crown prince of collegiate hip hop,
Kanye West. The run-up to latest opus My
kind of cool. On women
Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy has swiftly
become a drama of ludicrous scale acted out
I just don’t know “Please don’t let girls start wearing
dark lipstick again. I just think girls
to the amusement/entrancement of the entire
world wide web. First, a bizarre episode where
any personally” need to know that guys don’t really like
black lipstick.”
West earned international column inches
after making Steven Holmes, an entirely – Kanye West On technology
unknown man from nondescript English city “For a year and two days now I
Coventry, the only person he ‘followed’ on haven’t had a cell phone to get
Twitter. At time of going to press, West has away from the commercial and
just posted a supposedly banned version of pop worlds.”
My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy’s ’s cover art,
a crude painting of two naked monsters that, On women and
frankly, deserves censoring for artlessness technology
over any obscenity. Such online tomfoolery, “Why is [it] so sexy to me when I see
alongside various controversial incidents, [a] girl pull an iPad out her purse?”
have threatened to overshadow the fact that
West’s music alone is more than worthy of On, um, well…
worldwide attention. Consistently evolving “If baroque and mod had a car crash
over four studio albums to date, 2008 what would that ambulance look
departure 808s & Heartbreak was perhaps his like?”
most notable sharp career turn, majoring on
Auto-Tune voice effects and often swapping “Man, ninjas are kind of cool. I just
rapping for singing. Headline-making antics don’t know any personally.”
continue to keep Kanye West in the limelight,
but with a genuinely great back catalogue
to call upon, he continues to execute a rare
balance between pleasing the masses and his
GETTY IMAGES
Prince
Date: November 14
Given the name that his parents bestowed on
him, Prince Rogers Nelson was never likely to
work in an office. Stardom was the only real
option, a route the pocket-sized Minnesota funk-
rock legend has traversed with hitherto unrivalled
flair across his celebrated 30-year career.
Operating for almost all of that time outside the
constraints of trends or fads, briefly surmising the
52-year-old’s highs and lows is almost impossible.
Suffice to say, however, that most followers won’t
be hanging out for selections from latter-day
albums such as this year’s newspaper/magazine
covermount freebie 20Ten. The countless classic
cuts from his impressive repertoire chiefly hail
from earlier years; indeed, many would argue
he has never bettered much-heralded 1980s LPs
1999 and Purple Rain. Notching total record
sales into a remarkable nine figures, it’s probably
only a seeming willingness to out-weird himself
that has prevented Prince from doubling or even
tripling that figure. But whether as Prince or an
unpronounceable squiggle that led flummoxed
onlookers to label him The Artist Formerly
Known As Prince, he has always known how
cult of fan devotion that surrounds the band. ab i, ad mission free with
A prior pioneer of online releases, Island, Abu Dh
www.yasalam.ae
F1 race tickets only.
When Formula One motor racing arrived for an event resplendent in a name that American-themed activities running over
in Abu Dhabi for the first time last year, translates to ‘wow’, boasting something for the weekend of the season’s penultimate F1
the UAE’s long-running spirit of going one revellers of all ages. race, the Brazilian Grand Prix (November
bigger, better and more glamorous took Live On Abu Dhabi Corniche’s chief 5 to 7).
over. The associated Yasalam festivities attraction comes as worldwide music Live Across The City, meanwhile,
went way beyond the planet’s premier luminaries light up Beats On The Beach continues with an illustrious exhibition
motor sport championship and its legions at Al Sahil Beach (November 10 to 13). of F1 imagery in The Art Of Racing
of devoted petrol-heads its triumphant Multi-million-selling dancehall king Sean (until November 14), complemented
inaugural run attended by almost half a Paul raps up the opening night’s pinnacle, by work from local schoolchildren, and
million people. It was a no brainer, then, followed 48 hours later by evergreen an interactive F1 media zone (until
that Yasalam would return for 2010, English pop beauty Sophie Ellis-Bextor, November 14). Between all that, students
building up to the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix smooth New York rapper Fabolous and professionals alike compete in pedal
feature race itself on November 14. and Lebanese idol Nancy Ajram. The car modification contest Corniche Beach
This year Yasalam is based around 2009’s contrasting talents of enigmatic R&B star Customs on November 7.
three most successful elements: Live On Kelis and Lebanese Dabke vocalist Fares And the Yas Island fun isn’t entirely
Abu Dhabi Corniche, Live Across The Karam close the final evening. In slightly exclusive to those with race-day tickets
City and after-race concert series Live more sedate scenes, the F1 FanZone is (which gain access to concerts from
On Yas Island. With the former two open to November 14 with all manner of American megastar triumvirate Kanye
programmes completely free to the public, motor sport-related attractions, driver West, Linkin Park and Prince, November
Yasalam again provides a citywide month signings, F1 race screenings, plus extreme 12 to 14). There are post-gig after-parties,
of cultural breadth surrounding what sports demonstrations, while Grand which will be open to all planned, too.
would alone represent one of the largest Prix images are on display at Abu Dhabi
extravaganzas on the region’s calendar. Galleria (to November 14). Beach cinema
And the line-up is deservingly stupendous screenings run to November 2, with South www.yasalam.ae
www.bertolucci-watches.com
ABU DHABI Tel: 02 6745000 AL AIN Tel: 03 7541150 DUBAI: Deira City Center Tel: 04 2953780
Radisson SAS Tel: 04 2229687, Dubai Mall Tel: 04 3399330, Emirates Mall Tel: 04 3412424
curries
What’s On and Dubai 92 joined
forces to find Dubai’s best curry. And
here they are, all 30 of them – from
pavement cafés to celeb chefs, we
scoured the city and scorched our
taste buds in the name of research.
Here come the spice sweats…
1 3
TAWA MURGH RAYAN CHICKEN TIKKA MAKHANI
CHUTNEY’S MASALA
9.5/10 9/10
This curry of tender chicken leg GARETH’S Creamy, garlicky and delicately
HELEN’S
in a tomato and onion gravy PICK spiced, this melt in the mouth PICK
with black pepper and coriander chicken dish has the subtle smoky
is cooked on a traditional iron griddle. Rich, flavours of the tandoor oven. Served
complex and delicious, there wasn’t a trace of in a small copper pot, it is comfort food at its
the sauce left after the testers mopped it up subcontinental best.
with paratha. Book a table now. Masala, Jumeirah Bab al Shams, Dubai, Dhs62.
Chutney’s, Mövenpick, Bur Dubai, Dhs56. Tel: (04) 8096100
4
Tel: (04) 3104340
2
SHAAM SAVERA
CHICKEN JALFREZI
5
CB & GB’S
OPTIONS PICK
BRICK LANE 9/10 PRAWNS MASALA
9/10 EDITOR’S
PICK Don’t be fooled by the appearance of this dish INDEGO BY VINEET
Aimed unashamedly at the Brit – what looks like limes floating in tomato soup 9/10
curry-loving market, Brick Lane’s chicken is actually a veggie dish delicious enough to Not the cheapest curry in town by any
jalfrezi packs the right blend of tomatoes and tempt even the most dedicated carnivore, stretch of the imagination, but everything
spices to keep Anglophiles and more happy. with spinach kofta stuffed with malai paneer on Bhatia's menu is sublime. Plump prawns
We expected a lot, and they delivered, from the cheese in a honey and tomato gravy. Not poached lightly in sweet coconut milk
first bite of the chunky chicken pieces, to the too spicy, a decent portion size and a sauce enlivened by a deft chilli spice. Splash out
last bit of spicy sauce. Outstanding. perfect for dipping, we’ll be trying this again. on this gem.
Brick Lane, Barsha, Dubai, Dhs30. Tel: (04) Options by Sanjeev Kapoor, Dubai World Trade Indego by Vineet, Grosvenor House, Dubai
3996786. www.bricklanedubai.com Centre, Dubai, Dhs50. Tel: (04) 3293293 Marina, Dubai, Dhs190. Tel: (04) 3176000
6 14
RESHMI KADAI Nalli Patialla – The Bombay
MUTTON ROGAN JOSH
CAESARS INDIA PALACE
8.5/10 7/10
Generous pieces of chicken lurk in a creamy The dark gravy and beautifully cooked lamb
sauce, flecked with herbs and full of taste. of this traditional dish is enough to either
We didn’t expect such a strong contender put hairs on your chest, or sort out your
from Caesars (the name fooled us, you see) sinuses. It’s not a light choice, but instead
but the Reshmi Kadai cleverly achieves the packs a punch with fragrant spices and rich
balance between mild and invigorating. flavours. A hearty dish.
Caesars came, saw and conquered. India Palace, Garhoud Bridge Road, Garhoud,
Caesars, Garhoud Bridge Road, Garhoud, Dubai, Dhs35. Tel: (04) 2869600
15
Dubai, Dhs38. Tel: (04) 2821960
7 10
MUTTON ISHTEW
MURGH MAKHANI NALLI PATIALA ASHIANA
AMAL/ARMANI THE BOMBAY 7/10
8.5/10 7.5/10 This lamb stew in a spicy tomato, onion,
High-end Indian from an Italian hotel? Oft heralded as one of Dubai’s finest curry cinnamon and mace flavoured sauce is
Apparently so. Amal’s chicken tikka dish houses, The Bombay’s lamb shanks certainly extremely flavourful, with the right amount
blends spices, cream, yoghurt, tomato and do their bit to continue its good name. of spice, resulting in a 'light' but well-
dried fenugreek leaves to create a smoky Cooked in a rich medium spicy gravy, the balanced dish. A perfect complement to
classic. It’s expensive, but the restaurant is good quality meat is tender and boast just saffron rice.
something of a stunner, which certainly helps. enough of the chef’s special home ground Ashiana, Sheraton Dubai Creek, Deira, Dubai,
Amal/Armani, Armani Hotel, Burj Khalifa, masala. A sophisticated curry at a good Dhs84. Tel: (04) 2281111
16
Dubai, Dhs120. Tel: (04) 8883888 price indeed.
8
The Bombay, Marco Polo Hotel, Deira, Dubai, BUTTER CHICKEN
BEGUM BAHAR Dhs46. Tel: (04) 2720000 THE RUPEE ROOM
11
ANTIQUES BAZAAR 7/10
8/10 BHINDI MASALA Our old pal, the butter chicken, made an
Hidden away in Bur Dubai's Four Points ATRIUM appearance at The Rupee Room, flanked
Sheraton, this veritable treasure trove of North 7.5/10 by a naan bread the size of a double duvet.
Indian cuisine has buckets of charm, paired A veggie twist on butter chicken, this curry While the curry itself wasn’t exactly bursting
with authentic, often eclectic, singing and has a similar sauce mixed with ladies fingers, with taste, the kurmi naan (topped with
dancing. The chef's special chicken Begum annatto seeds, tomato, black pepper and fresh tomato sauce, spices and cheese) was
Bahar is somehow at once rich, creamy and cashew nuts, resulting in a new favourite at strong enough to improve the overall meal.
spicy with every fork full. It's flavour at its the What’s On camp. Good teamwork.
finest, served with cumin rice and a fluffy, Atrium, Grand Millennium, TECOM, Dubai, The Rupee Room, Marina Walk, Dubai Marina,
buttery garlic naan on the side. Dhs50. Tel: (04) 4299999 Dubai, Dhs58. Tel: (04) 3905755
12 17
Antiques Bazaar, Four Points by Sheraton, Bur
Dubai, Dubai, Dhs55. Tel: (04) 3977444 MUTTON PALAK DHANIYA MURG
9
RAVI’S ASHA’S
PRAWN MASALA 7.5/10 7/10
BEST
IZ For when you can’t decide BARGAIN If we were giving points purely on
8/10 between meat and veg, presentation, Asha’s offering would be a
A rich, verdant green, coconut-infused sauce this no-frills combination of bit further up. A really lovely looking plate
conceals a generous helping of succulent falling-off-the-bone mutton and swampy of food, this chicken curry is cooked with
prawns in this delectable curry. Cooked spinach-strewn curry sauce is the perfect coriander seed and cashew nut gravy. The
in front of your eyes while you perch, compromise. A more rustic and traditional level and complexity of spice was good, but
salivating at the casual bar dining set up, the melange of meat and vegetation you'll be the sauce could have been a bit richer.
tantalising wait is worth it when you get a hard pushed to find this side of Peshawar. Asha’s, Wafi, Oud Metha, Dubai, Dhs69.
fresh roti dipped in. Ravi’s, Satwa Roundabout, Satwa, Dubai, Tel: (04) 3244100
iZ, Grand Hyatt, Dubai, Dhs70. Tel: (04) 3171234 Dhs15. Tel: (04) 3315353
13
GOA PRAWN CURRY
MASALA CRAFT
7/10
A truly authentic Goan curry packed with
plump prawns. The sauce might seem a
bit flimsy for many, but it does well to play
second fiddle to the fresh seafood and is
perfect for drenching steamed rice with
subtle flavour.
Masala Craft, Aviation Club, Garhoud, Dubai,
ISTOCK
18 26
LAL MAANS JHINGA CURRY
MANVAAR GHARANA
7/10 6/10
If you’re a sensitive type, this hot and heavy We were initially put off this one by its oily
lamb dish may prove just a little bit too much. appearance, but the smell was too good to
A fiery stew of tender lamb on the bone filled ignore and a tentative fork speared a giant
with Rajasthan chillis and a generous helping prawn. We were sold. Perhaps one to share
of spices, it packs a serious punch. But if you Laal Mass – Claypot rather devour alone, this dish is greasy
can get past the heat, the smoky taste may but great.
22
just win you over. Gharana, Holiday Inn, Al Barsha, Dubai, Dhs60.
Manvaar, Karama, Dubai, Dhs30. Tel: (04) 3368332 LAAL MASS Tel: (04) 3234333
19 27
CLAYPOT
LAMB PASSANDA 6.5/10 MURGH LAHORI
BRITISH TANDOOR A lamb curry that is high on spices and taste, GAZEBO
7/10 but low on chunks of actual meat. The lamb 5.5/10
Priding itself on serving British style Indian in question is pretty much left on the bone – Wow. Not curry as we’ve ever had it before,
cuisine, we were expecting a lurid dish the which while delicious to taste, does require a this North Indian lamb dish is more like a
colour of traffic cones. However, this mild lot of chewing and grinding to get at it. All the giant plate of pickles. Incredibly sour, if you
curry of tender lamb, creamy yoghurt sauce, hard work is worth it though, as this traditional like mouth wateringly sharp flavours then
almonds and gentle spices gave more of red Rajasthani effort is fantastic with rice or this is the one for you, but our palates might
a nod to the subcontinent than expected. naan breads to soak up the spicy gravy. not be quite ready.
It’s the kind of curry your mum would like. Claypot, Citymax Hotel, Al Barsha, Dubai, Gazebo, Next to Sharaf DG, Mankhool, Dubai,
British Tandoor, Interchange One, Sheikh Dhs30. Tel: (04) 4078066 Dhs33. Tel: (04) 3599713
23 28
Zayed Road, Dubai, Dhs50. Tel: (04) 3211778
20
PEPPER CHICKEN THE VARUTHARACHATHU
GOSHT ROGAN JOSH KEBAB CONNECTION HIGHLAND GARDENS
KEBAB KORNER 6.5/10 5.5/10
7/10 Bit of a head scratcher, this one. What makes Well, it gets the award for
GREAT
We considered deducting points for a curry a curry? This dish has everything you’d the trickiest name, but if we
VALUE
spelling 'corner' with a K, but a taste of their expect – chicken, cream and a kick – but the didn’t know it was chicken it
traditional Kashmiri dish convinced us to peppery sauce would be equally at home on could have been an X Files job
play nice. Complex and fragrant, it’s a meaty the side of a steak. Still, the homemade taste, – case of the unidentified meat. The sauce
feast with chunks of lamb in a dark, gingery charred bread and hefty portion means it still was actually pretty tasty with a coconutty
sauce that made us want to have a satisfied does well in the taste test. sweetness, made for butter naan dipping.
nap afterwards. The Kebab Connection, Swiss-BelHotel, Al Mina Highland Gardens, Garhoud, Dubai, Dhs12.
Kebab Korner, Highland City Hotel, Bur Dubai, Road, Satwa, Dubai, Dhs55. Tel: (04) 3459992 Tel: (04) 2828979
24 29
Dubai, Dhs60. Tel: (04) 3938538
21
MURGH MAKHANI CHEMMEEN MANGA
ROGAN JOSH BOMBAY BY THE BAY COCONUT GROVE
ZAFRAN 6/10 5/10
7/10 Top marks for presentation, this creamy dish This good-looking prawn curry came with a
One of Dubai’s newer Indian additions, this consists of boneless tandoor chicken in a delicious dosa that was a welcome change
Mirdif City Centre hot house serves up a tomato sauce flavoured with fenugreek and from parathas. The dish itself, however, was
rogan josh in the form of a hulking Australian ginger, all topped with herb butter. Heart over-spiced and a little heavy handed
lamb shank. Slow-cooked in stock, with gravy attack central. Out taste buds were a little with the coconut (taking that restaurant
to pour over and a variation of guacamole on underwhelmed, but this is a decent intro to name too far), leaving us picking at the
the side, it was unlike any other curry we’ve the world of curry for a newbie. dosa instead.
had. Not one for traditionalists, but very Bombay by the Bay, Marina Promenade, Dubai Coconut Grove, Rydges Plaza, Satwa, Dubai,
enjoyable all the same. Marina, Dubai, Dhs42. Tel: (04) 2328585 Dhs60. Tel: (04) 3983800
25 30
Zafran, Mirdif City Centre, Mirdif, Dubai, Dhs48.
Tel: (04) 2840987 SATVIK KOFTA TIKKA MASALA
GOVINDA’S DELHI DARBAR
6/10 5/10
This 100 per cent vegetarian restaurant To prepare this dish, cubes of boneless
serves up healthy and holistic fare, but chicken are marinated in tandoori masala
without using onion or garlic. Fear not and yoghurt. That is where the juiciness
though, this veggie speciality is still full and flavour comes from. They are then
of flavour with balls of kofta beautifully grilled and cooked in a butter-
presented and accompanied with mataji based gravy of cashewnut
paratha (Dhs6). Not the perfect main meal, and almonds. Bit too rich
but a good shout as a side dish to share. for us.
Govinda’s, behind Regent Palace Hotel, Bur Delhi Darbar, Karama, Dubai,
Rogan Josh – Zafran Dubai, Dubai, Dhs26. Tel: (04) 3960088 Dhs25. Tel: (04) 334717
For reservations, please contact: One&Only Royal Mirage +971 4 399 99 99 or info@oneandonlyroyalmirage.ae
FILM
The American Burke And Hare Saw 3D
WHO? George Clooney, Irina Simon Pegg, Andy Serkis, Isla Tobin Bell, Carey Elwes, Costas
Björklund, Thekla Reuten, Fisher, Christopher Lee, Tim Mandylor, Betsy Russell, Sean
Johan Leysen, Paolo Bonacelli, Curry, John Landis (director) Patrick Flanery, Kevin Greutert
Anton Corbijn (director) (director)
TAGLINE ‘From the director of Control’ ‘No job too small. No body too ‘In eye-popping 3D’
big. No questions asked’
ONCE UPON A TIME... Veteran assassin Jack (Clooney) Williams Burke and Hare (Pegg Survivors of Jigsaw’s demented
decided to call it a day, just as and Serkis), who made a living genius met up with self-help guru
soon as he polished off one last selling corpses to Edinburgh’s Bobby Dagen (Flanery), unaware
assignment in Italy. medical schools, discovered that their revelations would spark
they could become really rich by off a new cycle of horror.
bumping people off instead of
simply grave robbing.
IDEAL IF YOU’RE IN THE Watch the most charismatic Get behind two blokes all right Watch a sub-par Saw movie
MOOD TO... American actor of his generation thinking people would detest. in 3D.
do his whole charismatic
American thing.
WATCH THIS IF YOU Anton Corbijin’s acclaimed debut John Landis’ horror classic An Saws 1 to VI. It might also appeal
LIKE... picture, the Ian Curtis/Joy Division American Werewolf In London to those who got a kick-out
biopic Control, and edgier George and Simon Pegg’s bloody superb of recent 3D horror releases
Clooney offerings such as The Shaun Of The Dead. such as Piranha and The Final
Good German and Confessions Of Destination.
A Dangerous Mind.
TOP TRIVIA Before he moved into movies, Pegg’s on-screen wife is played by While the other Saw films had
Anton Corbijn was one of the his Spaced co-star Jessica Hynes relatively short schedules, the use of
world’s most celebrated stills (nee Stevenson). 3D technology meant this picture
photographers. took almost half a year to complete.
WHAT’S ON TEN WORD Not classic Clooney, but you have A film crying out to be described The appeal of Jigsaw
REVIEW to admire his ambition. as dead funny. remains a puzzle.
‘They’re back. In 3D’ ‘What are you so afraid of?’ ‘From the director of Bhool ‘Life is for living’
Bhulaiyaa’
Johnny Knoxville and his brave/ Teenage brothers Dane and Ambitious road builder Sachin Charlie St Cloud (Efron) was
incredibly stupid band decided it Nathan (Massoglia and Gamble) Tichkule (Kumar) found his left distraught by the death of
was time to perform a new set of found a hole in their basement dreams crushed at every turn by his younger brother, only for a
inspired/insane stunts. leading to a place where they corrupt Indian bureaucrats. new love and the spirit of his
must confront their worst fears. late sibling to provide his life
with fresh purpose.
Watch grown men demonstrate Watch a couple of contemporary See the Bollywood equivalent of See Zac Efron take another
that they really don’t know better. kids have the bejesus scared out The Full Monty or Brassed Off: step along the road from teen
of them. Which if you’ve just pictures that aim to entertain stardom to sophisticated movie
been cut up by one of them on but contain powerful political actor.
his poncey scooter, could prove a messages.
genuine delight.
The earlier films, the first of Joe Dante’s excellent kids ‘n’ Above-average rom-coms, and The sort of films you have to
which saw the boys patrol Tokyo horror combos Gremlins, The are interested in seeing what such watch through teary eyes.
in panda suits while the second ‘Burbs and, er, Gremlins 2: The films would be like if they came
featured Johnny Knoxville New Batch. with lots of dancing and any
being rundown by a yak while number of show-stopping tunes.
blindfolded.
Bam Margera was attacked by Be sure to stay for the unnerving Massive Bollywood star Akshay Since filming, Zac Efron
a woman with a baseball bat post-credits sequence. Kumar started out life as a waiter has grown a full beard and
during shooting. The assault left in a Bangkok restaurant. moustache. It looks rubbish.
the skateboarder with bleeding on
the brain.
Genius to some, boorish idiocy This month’s third 3D offering’s It’s unsubtle, but there’s no Efron’s good, but this well-
to others. the pick of the bunch. denying it’s fun. intentioned film is waterlogged.
ingredients
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no wonder the world comes to shop at LuLu.
www.luluhypermarket.com
NOBU
On the
menu La Petite Maison
The Dubai branch
A tasty trio of of LPM becomes an
newsy nibbles instant classic
BUILD YOUR OWN
It’s not often we’d be
advising you to visit an Probably the easiest way to judge a
'all day dining' restaurant, successful restaurant is by how full
they tend to be a little it is. Yet a bustling dining room
on the dull side, but Al can still be something of a rarity
Manzil Hotel’s Conservatory has in Dubai, where even the finest
launched a new menu concept
– and, as we discovered recently,
restaurants might be far from
produces some rather good full, or worse still, empty. There’s
burgers (try the lamb and be nothing more dismal than eating
prepared to get messy). You are in silence, just the shuffling of the
encouraged to chat with the chefs, chef ’s restless feet emanating from
who will then create bespoke the dormant kitchen.
dishes based on those featured
on the new lunch and dinner
Contradictorily, the fuller the
menu. There’s also a salad bar and restaurant, the more intimate your
live cooking stations. And Pierre experience. When all is alive about
Gagnaire-trained chef Antoine you, conversation flows. In an
Christian is overseeing it all. empty restaurant, the unfilled space
Al Manzil Hotel, Downtown, and silence slaps an oppressive
Dubai. Tel: (04) 4285923. www.
southernsunme.com/almanzil
hand across your mouths.
La Petite Maison, on only its
ROCOCO TREATS fourth night, was chock-a-block. The onion tart, a wafer of A small rowboat of classic
November 14 marks the start of Not just busy – full to the brim. crisp pastry, smothered with vanilla crème brulée was faultless
an Italian Festival at Sofitel Dubai A visitor to the Emirates would sweet onion and several small and a tart, naughtily named
Jumeirah Beach and Rococo chef have thought LPM was a Dubai slices of anchovy arrive first, summer berry froth with a
Enzo Neri has a few surprises in
store for us. The Italian chef has
restaurant stalwart, not the new quickly followed by a vast creamy milky yoghurt ice cream and
launched a special three-course kid on the block, although it soon cloud of burrata festooned with several crisp vanilla nuggets
set menu available for Dhs195 and will be. tomatoes and basil and a magical of doughnut was jolly, but the
will prepare dishes using a different Confident door staff, not at all mix of fishy sardine, sweet grape cheesecake… The cheesecake
Italian seasonal ingredient (pears, surprised that yet more guests and tomato. Three carpaccio was the cheesecake to end all
chestnuts, aubergine, raspberry) were upon them, guided us past plates follow suit, all layered with cheesecakes. And all meals.
each week until December 4. There
will also be cooking classes, (Nov
the bar and its pre-meal tipplers, fine slivers of sirloin, marinated Do we need to tell you to book
10 and 29), where you can learn to and through an efficient army of salmon with pink peppercorns a table?
cook with chef Neri in the kitchen. waiters swooping from table to and fresh scallop, and a bowl of
Rococo, Sofitel Dubai Jumeirah table. Moving at lighting speed, warm prawns sitting gracefully in
Beach, The Walk, JBR, Dubai. Tel: (04) they’re recommending a dish to a mildly peppery puddle of olive
4484860. www.sofitel.com a couple in the corner, delivering oil. We couldn’t find fault with Need to know
MAMA MIA!
several plates to a large table of any of these uncomplicated but
Have you ever wondered why suits or pouring a glass of wine for delightful dishes. Location: DIFC, Gate Village
Italian men make so much of a fuss a few hipsters coolly nodding their A supple meaty hunk of turbot 8, Dubai
about their mamas? Maybe it's approval of yet another wonderful was given a homely heft, baked Tel: (04) 4390505
fancy tasting Italian cooking just hors d’oeuvres plate. and served in a petite cassoulet Web: www.lpmdubai.ae
like mama used to make it (and still You could be in New York or with white wine, olive oil and a Open: Sun to Fri noon to
does, it seems)? To prove this, chef
Doretta Calchetti will be preparing
London. The place is alive. handful of soft and gorgeously 2.30pm and 7pm to 11pm
a special a la carte menu for But back to those hors vinegary artichokes. But the dish Cuisine type: French (Niçoise)
lunch and dinner at Grand Hyatt d’oeuvres. LPM promotes a de la nuit consisted of several juicy Must eat: grilled lamb cutlets
Dubai’s Andiamo restaurant, from sharing concept, naturally – it’s lamb cutlets, the exterior sticky Bill for two: Dhs930 (without
November 6 to 11, and holding the best way to eat – shared food and charred from the grill, the alcohol)
a cooking class on November 10. guaranteeing a united experience flesh below magnificently pink.
Mamma Doretta promises chicken
livers with black olive cream and
and steady conversation from the
Bringoli pasta with rabbit. That off. The waiter will advise you to In tweet form… Our new favourite
does it for us. try three or four dishes, which restaurant in Dubai. Book a table.
Nov 6 to 11, Grand Hyatt Dubai, is plenty, but we ran our taste follow me
Now. Follow us at WhatsOnDubai and
Oud Metha, Dubai. Tel: (04) buds over seven – it pays to be WhatsOnAbuDhabi
3172222. www.dubai.hyatt.com thorough, after all.
The time has come. The reckoning ALL YOU CAN EAT BBQ & ALL DAY A LA CARTE DINING
Every Friday
is over. You have cast your votes,
either online, via SMS or the FRID
FRIDAY NIGHT LIVE ACOUSTIC GUITAR WITH DANNY SHIRRAN
old-fashioned nomination card- Every Friday from 7pm - 10pm
filling way. One of you is set to SATURDAY FLOATIN’ FILMS
win the grand prize – a five- Every Saturday from 7pm
night stay at the luxurious Four
NEW HOME-MADE POOLSIDE PIZZA
Seasons Resort in the Maldives, Take - aways are also available
with return flights. But the real running. Which young prince
winners will be the restaurants will be passed the crown by the
that take home one of those mighty king Zuma? Who will win
coveted What’s On Awards and Favourite European, Italian
the honour of hanging a What’s or seafood?
On winner’s plaque outside their The answer is that we don’t
people-approved establishment know (unless you’re reading this
on November 7. after November 7, that is). That’s
Last year’s big winner was the beauty of allowing you, the
Zuma, which it turned out was people, to choose. After all, you’re
not only our favourite Japanese the ones who pay to eat in these
restaurant in Dubai, but yours restaurants and you’re the ones
too. Chef Colin Clague and his we’ve been buying what is now
team walked off with no fewer the best-selling entertainment
than four What’s On Awards. Can magazine in the UAE for these
they do it again? Or will another past 31 years. Without you,
restaurant usurp that Favourite neither the magazine, the awards
Japanese title? One thing is for nor many of these restaurants
sure, Zuma can’t win the coveted would exist. So thank you.
Best Newcomer award two years And goodnight.
1/4 AD
A taste of
things to
come
Three new ways to
fill your belly
YELLOW LOUNGE
What’s On loves to
lounge – who doesn’t?
– so we’ve been waiting
for the opening of Yellow
Lounge since we heard rumour
of a champagne bar hitched to
French brasserie Rive Gauche
some time ago. Now it’s here.
We’re talking hors d’oeuvres,
champagne, cocktails, an
extensive wine list, music and
themed nights. With Red Lounge
recently opening at Raffles, we’re
thinking the lounge might be a
new trend. You heard it here first.
The Address Dubai Marina, Dubai,
(or should that be cod fight?) is from the cherry tomatoes and the MAISON SUCRE
Emirates Palace’s fish We’re sure our cupcake feature
most definitely on, and with an sherry vinegar foam brought out a
restaurant welcomes impressive array of ocean offerings surprising richness and acidity.
last month inspired you to rush
out and gorge yourself on the
a new chef and menu on his menu, the competition To end, we ambitiously opted dainty delicacies, but if you
should take notice. for a lemon tart, although it was haven’t had your fill, Maison
There’s an overwhelming sense of We started with an amuse- always going to be foolhardy Sucre, the capital’s newest bakery,
calm in Emirates Palace’s Sayad. bouche of white anchovy mousse manoeuvre, and despite enjoying will be happy to stuff you to the
gills with fluffy sponge and sugary
Maybe it’s the large aquarium with potato chips, its light dusting a bite or two it was quickly game icing. Or, if cupcakes ain’t your
taking up most of the space at the of smoked Spanish paprika giving over. Will it be game over for the thing, there are tarts, pastries and
restaurant’s doors, its occupants it a spicy edge and setting the tone. rest of the capital’s fish restaurants? made-to-order cakes.
drifting happily around the tank, The North Atlantic Ocean trout It’s certainly seafood for thought. Corner of Khaleej Al Arabi Street and
or even the soothing shades of with white asparagus and almond Zayed the First Street, Khalidiya, Abu
aqua of the décor inside, but crumble was off-the-boat fresh; Dhabi, Sat to Thurs 9am to 11pm,
whatever it is it made us feel, well, its gentle poaching producing a Need to know Fri 10am to 11pm. Tel: (02) 6396622.
www.maisonsucreuae.com
calm. Calm and aquatic. meltingly tender result, with the
Named, rather aptly, after the crumble adding texture. Followed Location: Sayad, Emirates JAMIE’S ITALIAN
Arabic for ‘the fisherman’, Sayad by smoked haddock veloute with Palace, Abu Dhabi Is he coming or isn’t he? Rumours
unashamedly takes its cues from the parsnip, quail’s eggs and ratte Tel: (02) 6905643 of Jamie Oliver making his Dubai
deep, with its cutesy fish-embossed potato – the haddock’s milky flavour Web: www.emiratespalace. restaurant debut have been doing
the rounds for a number of years
tiles leading to an intimate terrace combining with a parsnip purée to com
– the restless, crusading cook has
and impressive views over the give the dish a sweet and earthy feel Open: 6.30pm to 11.30pm even paid us a visit, but we’re yet to
marina and out to sea. – it was certainly an impressive start Cuisine type: seafood see a real commitment. Until now.
Armed with a new menu, as for chef Anthony’s menu. Must eat: halibut, with wild We’ve been promised that a branch
provided by the equally new chef A main course of halibut with mushroom, artichoke and of Oliver’s popular Jamie’s Italian
Shaun Anthony, the restaurant wild mushroom, artichoke and tomato (15 UK restaurants and counting)
will open at Festival Centre late
is set to take on the abundance tomato was cooked to perfection; Bill for two: Dhs800 this month, boasting 290 covers,
of seafood eateries in the capital the girolle mushrooms adding to (without alcohol) a pasta bar and a menu brimming
(including the excellent Nautilus the rustic texture, while the basil with Mediterranean classics. The
and Finz, to name but two) for the man himself may even turn up to
title of king of the sea. give it his ‘pukka’ seal of approval.
In tweet form… Abu Dhabi seafood Wicked, as the Essex chef himself
Anthony is no slouch, having fans take note: Sayad means business would say.
learned his trade under the follow me Follow us at WhatsOnDubai and Festival Centre, Marina Pavilion,
watchful eye of no less than WhatsOnAbuDhabi Dubai Festival City, Dubai
Gordon Ramsay, so the bun fight
HEF
Indego by Vineet CELEB C L
SPECIA
Cooking
by Vineet
a lot more robust. The people who dine here
Our favourite Indian chef, the appreciate sophisticated flavours. When you come
multi-Michelin starred Vineet into a place like Grosvenor House, you expect
something grand.
Bhatia, was kind enough to
invite us into his kitchen, where …copycats
we prepared this simple dish I’m very happy with people copying me – it’s the
greatest form of flattery, but, obviously, nobody
that even the clumsiest of would acknowledge it. It does encourage me to
cooks could handle. innovate and I always have an ace up my sleeve.
We have a kitchen at home, which is a miniature
version of the restaurant kitchen. That’s where it
VINEET ON… all happens.
Ramsay CHEF
CELEEBCIAL
SP
GETTY/GALLO IMAGES
Ramsay restaurants? tunately, the profile was built on the back of 2004 and most recently ran the kitchen
I would like to do something else, but it has the success – not because it was being chased. at Ramsay’s Murano in London. Just last
to be the right opportunity. Perhaps some- The press have been phenomenal, but it has month she bought Ramsay out and is
thing more relaxed – a steakhouse or a grill its dark side as well. If you dance with the now chef and owner of Murano.
or something with a little bit more of a lively devil, don’t be surprised if you get burnt.
buzz as opposed to the fine dining room.
Not planning on stopping any time soon,
then? APPLE TARTE TATIN (FOR SIX)
I’m 43. Three big openings next year. The Sa-
voy Grill next month. I think that’s enough for INGREDIENTS
a year. Stopping? That sounds like getting old 15 red apples, 400g caster sugar, 350g unsalted butter, one sheet of
and boring, right? No, I’m not going to stop. I rolled puff pastry (available pre-made in supermarkets)
need to keep going and I’m naturally excited
about food, but I also get bored very quickly. PREPARATION
Bored enough for a return to the kitchen? Place the sugar in a pan and caramelise. Slowly beat in the butter, being
No plans to return. Definitely not. I don’t careful not to split caramel. Pour caramel into a large, round ovenproof dish and leave
want to die behind the stove and I like my life to cool. Quarter all but one of the apples and remove the seeds and core using a knife,
outside the kitchen. There are cooks and there halve the remaining apple and remove the seeds and core using an apple corer. Place
are chefs. I love cooking, I absolutely love it, one apple half in the centre of the dish and place the quarters around the centrepiece
but my god, I’ve served my time behind the to form a circle. Roll out the puff pastry to 3mm to 4mm then cut a circle a little larger
stove. I’m still getting better. I haven’t finished than the dish and cover the apples with it, making sure to push the edges of the pastry
learning. But do I need to be at the helm and down in-between the apples. Bake in the oven at 180 degrees for 20 to 25 minutes, or
start deboning duck and lamb, filleting sea until pastry is cooked and crisp and the caramel dark brown. Turn the mould over onto a
bass at half past seven in the morning? No, plate while hot and lift off the mould. Serve with ice cream.
not really.
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EATING OUT
Sheraton Deira
The Gramercy
Grosvenor House, Dubai Marina, Dubai, 1pm Al Bustan Rotana, Casablanca Road, Al
to 4pm, Dhs220. Tel: (04) 3998888. www. Caramel Garhoud, Dubai, 12.30pm to 4pm, Dhs199.
grosvenorhouse-dubai.com Tel: (04) 2820000
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Bonnington Jumeirah Lakes Towers Plot J3-J4, Jumeirah Lakes Towers, P.O. Box 37246, Dubai, U.A.E.
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ARTS
COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND GREEN ART GALLERY
In the eye of
the beholder
An art studio for young adults with can apply to attend for a minimum of one day a week
and a maximum of three days a week for the year from
special needs, Mawaheb from Beautiful September until June. Essentially it is a place of acceptance
People opened in Bastakiya last month. and understanding of each other, where young adults can
The concept was adopted from similar come and learn not only artistic skills, but develop their self
confidence and feel valued.
ventures in the Netherlands and Is the studio open to visitors?
aims to help integrate special needs Absolutely! We love visitors. We are very fortunate to be
located in an area that is immersed in local and international
individuals within the community while art and culture, so we already have a lot of passing interest.
encouraging them to discover new It is also important that we encourage people to drop by and
see what wonderful things people with special needs can do.
skills. Manager Sonja Tatton takes time An important aspect of our vision is to educate people to
to tell What’s On about the project the fact that although someone has a disability, they can still
contribute to society and make a difference. We guarantee
that whoever walks through those doors will leave with a
How did the opening go? smile on their face.
On October 1 we held an admissions day. It was an opportunity What are your plans for the future?
for the parents and their children to come to the studio and We currently have a weekly programme that we offer our
have a look around and talk to us about the programme. The students which is under the direction of our resident artist,
day was a huge success and for me in particular the day was Gulshan Kavarana. Our plan is to have a series of workshops
a proud moment. To see how grateful the parents were about in various mediums of art from visiting artists. We also
there being something like this in Dubai for their children was have plans to teach students cooking skills with a trained
worth all the effort that it has taken to establish the studio. We professional in our small commercial kitchen. Eventually we
plan to have the official opening later in the year. would like to open a small café, where the public can drop
What do you hope to offer Dubai’s special needs in for light refreshments while marvelling at the wonderful
community? artwork. Essentially, we are studio for everyone to enjoy.
We hope that the community will embrace the studio and Sun, Tue, Wed, Thurs, Mawaheb from Beautiful People, Villa
know that Mawaheb from Beautiful People is dedicated to 40, Bastakiya, Bur Dubai, Dubai, free. Tel: (04) 3532100. www.
inspiring and teaching new skills to their children. People mawaheb-dubai.com.
Art alert
COURTESY OF THE ARTIST SARAH
Skills set Art Prize winners On the move
There’s something about the announced It’s all change again over in Al
winter months that seems to Now entering its third year, Quoz as Green Art Gallery
encourage a thirst for creative the Abraaj Capital Art Prize prepares to up sticks from
knowledge in What’s On’s continues to go from strength its longstanding Jumeriah
collective psyche. If you feel to strength. Famously feted as home and settle into a brand
the same, look no further the world’s biggest art prize, for spanking new warehouse
than Art Sawa’s truly inspiring the first time this year the US$1 space in – you guessed it – Al
programme of courses and million prize pot is to be split Serkal Avenue in December. Al
one-off classes. This month among five – rather than three, as Quoz has long been touted as
alone offers everything from in previous years – artists from Dubai’s answer to East London
a five-session intro into the across the Middle East, North or Downtown New York’s art
history of art (starting from Africa and South Asia. Jananne scene, and with a fistful of
November 8) to a one-off Al-Ani (Iran), Nadia Kaabi-Linke some of the city’s most exciting
music appreciation masterclass (Tunisia), Timo Nasseri (Iraq) galleries now located in one
on the eclectic oeuvre of one and Hamra Abbas and Shezad (easily walkable!) place, it looks
John Cage (November 30). Dawood from South Asia will like that prediction is finally
The Al Quoz gallery also offers each work with guest curator set to come true. About time,
regular workshops in audition Sharmini Pereira to produce we say.
and performance preparation, original works that will get their www.gaagallery.com
seasonal crafts and the like. first public airing at Art Dubai
Check out the website for 2011. Can’t wait.
details. www.abraaj.com/acap
www.artsawa.com
Five to see
ÑMEZZO
Not all art needs a gallery
setting, as this exhibition at
Aspen in the Kempinski Hotel
ÅSUSAN THOMPSON: BOTANICAL ARTIST demonstrates. Courtesy of
Botanical art was a favourite of the Victorian era, but fell out of the Vindemia Art & Antique
favour as the 20th century progressed. This charming exhibition Gallery it features the work of
of Thompson’s delicately intricate close-ups of plants and flowers, self-educated Lebanese painter
however, shows us all what we’re missing. Georges Bassil, who finds the
Until Nov 18, Majlis Gallery, Al Musalla Roundabout, Bastakiya, Bur Dubai, inspiration for his ”ballerinas” in
Dubai. Tel: (04) 3536233. www.themajlisgallery.com the voices of Billie Holiday and
Umm Kulthum.
Until Nov 21, Vindemia Art &
Antique Gallery, Aspen, Kempinski
Hotel, Mall of the Emirates, Dubai.
Tel: (04) 4270219
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ESSENTIAL
BEACH READS
Kickback on the beach and enjoy the autumn
sun with one of these ripping yarns
THE SKATING RINK, ROBERTO WALKING TO HOLLYWOOD, THE GLASS PALACE, AMITAV
BOLANO WILL SELF GHOSH
Chilean author Roberto Bolano Walking to Hollywood is an With almost too much plot to
blew this pop stand called Earth exploration of French theorist cram into one book, this epic love
back in 2003, but the success in Guy Debord’s psycho-geography story crosses borders, generations
English translation of his novel The Savage (the effect of environment on an and class systems. Cleverly
Detectives in 2006 set loose a flood of Bolano individual’s behaviour and emotions) in the form weaving India’s rich history with intricate
books in English, including this story of of a fictionalised memoir in which the author fiction, The Glass Palace is a classic rags-to-
crime, politics, infatuation and figure skating himself appears in the form of the main character riches saga following an extended family’s
set on Spain’s Costa Brava. Read it, then read Charles Ryder. Of course it is. Will Self wrote it. journey that will keep you gripped from
the entire Bolano canon before two more Split into three sections, the surreal action unfolds beach to bar to bed.
translations in 2011. during a walk through LA and the East Coast If you like this try… A Fine Balance,
If you like this try… Blow-up And Other of Yorkshire. A strange book, but then strange is Rohinton Mistry
Stories, Julio Cortázar Self’s modus operandi.
If you like this try… Crash, J G Ballard BERNARD SUMNER:
A JOURNEY, TONY BLAIR CONFUSION, DAVID NOLAN
You may not like Anthony Charles FREEDOM, JONATHAN FRANZEN This impeccably researched
Lynton Blair, but he's the man took Published just two months account includes memories
the reins of Britain’s Labour party ago, Freedom has already been from former employees and
in 1994, led them to a landslide dubbed a ‘modern classic’ and schoolmates of Sumner, a
election victory after 18 years in the embodiment of the ‘great founding member of Joy Division and
opposition in 1997 – the first of three electoral American novel’, and its author New Order. Nolan bravely handed over his
triumphs – sat at the head of government as Jonathan Franzen ((The Corrections), whose work to the man himself and the result is a
Prime Minister for a decade and changed the mug was recently plastered across the cover of book packed with footnotes from Sumner
face of British politics forever. This stout tome Time magazine, hailed as the saviour of America confirming and also disputing various tall
covers everything from 1994 to 2010. Anyone literature and the heir to literary giants Updike, tales. Recommended for curious musos and
interested in British, or indeed world politics, Bellow, Roth and DeLillo. So, let’s just say this post-punk nerds.
will devour it in days. family drama in which the characters spew out If you like this try… The Hacienda: How Not
If you like this try… The New Machiavelli, references to pop culture, is a pretty good read. To Run A Nightclub, Peter Hook
Jonathan Powell If you like this try… Underworld,
Don DeLillo ONE DAY, DAVID NICHOLLS
DEAD LIKE YOU, PETER JAMES Catching up with two characters,
British crime writer Peter JUMP!, JILLY COOPER Emma and Dexter, on every July
James is a big name amongst Ah Jilly, you gap-toothed lovely. 15 over 20 years from the day they
fans of the genre, and his series The purveyor of horsey romps leave university. One Day is a rare
of novels featuring Detective returns with this small town tale novel that successfully jumps through great
Superintendent Roy Grace, of which Dead of an aspiring racehorse and chunks of time, leaving the reader guessing
Like You is the sixth, has brought some of his the characters that surround where the next chapter will take them. The
best sales. It follows Grace as he attempts to her. There are wealthy trainers, handsome superbly written protagonists aren’t always
solve the murders of two women in Brighton. stable lads and more toned thighs in jodpurs likeable, but guide you through a full range of
Thrilling stuff from an accepted master of the than you can shake a whip at, so you’ll be human emotions, resulting in a moving read
crime genre. transported from desert sands to the English just crying out to be made into a film.
If you like this try… The Girl With The countryside at galloping speed. If you like this try… Juliet, Naked,
Dragon Tattoo, Stieg Larsson If you like this try… Polo, Jilly Cooper Nick Hornby
I'm in need of a smart pair of will last for many years to come. If ties and cufflinks too. 'Roll ons' are told me that wearing black does
shoes – none of those ones you need some dress shoes, head to also really easy and come with not coincide with proper wedding
that curl up at the ends or have your nearest Louis Vuitton boutique front pockets that can fit a laptop etiquette. Is this true? I don’t want
buckles or pennies stuck to them. for some sleek designs that are sans or files safely inside. Gucci at the to upset the bride on her big day.
Just smart, shiny and stylish. Tips? buttons and buckles. Marina Mall in Abu Dhabi have Polly, Bur Dubai, Dubai
Jeff, Old Town, Dubai Shoes by Louis Vuitton a luggage range for the fashion-
forward gent, but if you are looking First things first, you can wear
My mother always told me “you for something a little more casual black anywhere so please don’t
can tell a man by his shoes” and I am I live in Abu Dhabi and (and inexpensive) Zara has hesitate in wearing black
afraid to admit she is right. One of commute to Dubai a couple of some great choices. to this wedding. Black is a
the biggest fashion faux pas a man times a week. My wife hates my forever-chic option and can
can make is to wear shoes that are backpack (from my university be accessorised with striking
old, have a (high) heel or a rubber Bag by Gucci
days). Can you suggest a bag stilettos and A bag to make
sole. If casual is what you are after, that doesn’t look too feminine a certain fashion statement.
look no further than Tom Ford, who and fits all of my stuff in it? Add a hat with some netting
does about the best slippers and Paul, Abu Dhabi I have a wedding to go to next and stand out from the
loafers around. Hermès and Bottega month and was planning to crowd in style!
Veneta are also excellent choices for You definitely need a suit bag that wear my favourite new LBD to
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Jet Away at Sensasia Urban Spa
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DESTINATIO Spa
eatment at Amara
JET LAG MASSAGE
FLIGHT TIME
Jet Lag Tr
GE
JET LAG MASSA
90 minutes
A cut above
Trust is paramount when it we sat in his chair. Dhs100, including a wash.
comes to choosing a barber Job done.
Dubai Mall, Dubai, Dhs100. Tel: (04) 4340777.
– you don’t want any old www.niveahaus.ae
clown with a tub of Brylcreem bers, but look for a Filipino guy called Grace
and a penchant for pruning working on the second floor – he’s the best,” TONY & GUY BLOW
going at your glossy locks. our pal says. If you’re going to spend big on your wig, OUT
Al Muteena St, near Lulu Hypermarket, Deira, it’s a good idea to go for a well-known
Here are just a few of our Dubai, Dhs20. Tel: (04) 2625577 name – not always a guarantee of quality,
favourites but we’ve entrusted our hair to the pros at Tony
NIVEA HAUS SPA & Guy on many an occasion and never left
MANCHESTER SALON Located at The Dubai Mall, Nivea Haus’ The feeling, or looking, silly. T&G has been around
There are numerous budget BUDGET Barber Shop is one of the friendliest and most for almost 50 years and all of its staff are fully
barbers to be found in Dubai. efficient sheering stops in Dubai. We’ve been trained and carrying the special Tony & Guy
What’s On has a friend who visiting once a month for a year now and Diplomas to prove it. If you want the cheapest
had his hair cut for his wedding at Four every cut is identical. When a man can sit in cut on offer make an appointment with a
Brothers, Ras Al Khor Industrial Area that chair without worrying or administering regular stylist, or for an extra Dhs35 opt for the
for just Dhs15. And they threw in a scalp instruction, he knows he’s found the barber for style director. We recommend Chris – top cuts,
massage. And we have it on good authority, him. Ask for Abed – a true gent. He and he knows his football, too.
from one of our colleagues with very a fine remembers exactly what length Emirates Towers Hotel, Sheik Zayed Road,
haircut, that Manchester Salon is the place and style we desire and even the MID- Dubai, Dhs200 to Dhs235. Tel: (04) 3303345.
to be. “There are plenty of good Indian bar- chat we were having the last time RANGE www.toniandguy.com
ISTOCK
ISTOCK
(Dhs360 for 75 minutes), administered simply better, not red raw or remotely sore.
by the firm handed Sharon, was our We lay on the spa bed and she removes
pick, but we’ll be back to try the highly eye and face make-up. She then starts up the THE VERDICT
recommended Hot Stone treatment machine. It sounds like a vintage steam engine Despite it not being the most luxurious
very soon. and is surprisingly soothing as it chugs away. treatment in Dubai – no yummy oils, cleans-
N.A.I.L.S, Trident Marinascape, Marina The Hoover-like attachment manipulates the ing of chakras, fragrant candles, heavenly
Boulevard, Dubai Marina, Dubai. Tel: (04) skin at a faster and more effective rate than any scalp massages, or nice herbal cuppa to
4473688. www.nailsorganicspa.com therapists’ fingers could move, plus the ‘suck- finish – you certainly come out with more
ing’ sensation increases your blood flow, and refined and lifted cheekbones and a clearer
MANDARA SPA feels pretty nice, too. She uses different attach- complexion, which means we’ll take this
Awaken your body and mind with the ments for specific areas of the face, going very quick treatment over a lengthy oily rub-
115-minute Sultry Citrus Body Buff by gently around the eye area, and firmer around down anytime. A course of six sessions is
Elemis at the Monarch’s spa, at a the jaw line. The treatment doesn’t last much recommended, but you do notice a differ-
special reduced price this month. For longer than 30 minutes – so it doesn’t take too ence from day one – so yes, it really is no
Dhs700 you’ll get the foot ritual, exotic much time out of our busy schedules, always pain, but plenty of gain.
lime & ginger salt glow, mini facial, good when you’re explaining to the Editor LPG at Tips & Toes, Jumeirah Beach Residence,
Elemis bath and Balinese massage with you’re off for a facial at lunchtime. Dubai, Dhs160 per session. Tel: (04) 4293477
body oil. The offer also includes your
choice of Elemis bath products to take
home, worth Dhs300, and you’ll get
access to the health club, pool, steam
“The treatment is a bit like a gym session
room and sauna. for your face – lots of exercising of the
Mandara Spa, The Monarch, Sheikh Zayed
Road, Dubai. Tel: (04) 5018888
epidermis, but without you having to lift so
much as an eyelash”
82 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010
THE
ULTIMATE
19TH
HOLE.
DON'T MISS GOLF'S
ULTIMATE PARTY
It's the sporting event of the year. The world will be watching. And
this is your chance to take part, as 60 of the game's greatest names
go head-to-head. Enjoy four days of dawn-to-dusk partying and say
you were there when the 2010 Dubai World Champion was crowned.
Visit www.DubaiWorldChampionship.com
for free tickets and information on premium hospitality packages.
25-28
NOVEMBER
2010
SPORT & OUTDOOR
p87 Mr Fitness
p88 Run with us!
p89 Sport shorts
ISTOCK
wagamama
The Greens
Tel 04 361 5757
wagamama
Al Fattan Towers
Tel 04 399 5900
PROUDLY OPERATES (Open daily noon to midnight, deliveries)
info@rmalhospitality.ae www.rmalhospitality.com/wagamama.asp
Sports shorts
Your bite-size guide to
the sporting month Howzat!
With Dubai Sports City Cricket Stadium,
ICC HQ and Freddie Flintoff turning up in
What’s this? Zen everyone’s local watering hole, Dubai
is fast becoming a cricket hot
Zen Yoga instructor Lucy Roberts spot. And this month, sports
has plenty to offer this month. fans, we will be treated to
First up, there’s cardiolates the first test match between
– a cunning blend of cardio Pakistan, who will be looking
and Pilates that works the to put the scandal surrounding
heart and lungs and helps their recent disastrous tour of
strengthen your core and Masterstrokes England behind them, and the
improve posture (Thursdays more settled South Africa – obvious
JULIANA
Deputy editor Helen
dons an attractive vest
DOWN
Shot on location at Dubai Autodrome
What’s On took the boys from Juliana ready to rock!” as he ripped around
Down go-karting to blow off some the track with Sari R (guitar), Vee
steam after being cooped up in the (bass) and Lionel (keyboards). After
recording studio. The new album, already opening for Muse, Justin
Empires, is out next month – a heavy Timberlake and Velvet Revolver, we
Victory! Friendships are blend of alternative rock roars and reckon 2011 will be the year Juliana
addictive lyrics that is already getting Down explode onto the international
forgotten on the track solid air-play on Dubai radio. Lead music scene.
singer Dia H yelled, “We’re back and www.myspace.com/officialjulianadown
5
CTRL @ Catwalk
The underground house night returns for
6
Play @ Nasimi
WEEKLY
another instalment of DJ Afroboogie-led Beach games, happy hour from 3pm to
fun, with guest appearances from the 5pm, barbecue and live Radio 1 broadcast
Substance and Warped crews. of Schooly's soulful sessions might just be
Catwalk, Golden Tulip, Barsha, Dubai, 9pm to the perfect way to end your weekend.
3am, free. Tel: (050) 4517002 Atlantis The Palm, Dubai, 3pm to late, free.
Tel: (055) 2004321
10
Sundowner Sessions @ Sundowner
WEEKLY
Laid-back beats by the pool, courtesy of
resident DJ Chris Smith.
Sundowner, Crowne Plaza Abu Dhabi, Yas
Island, Abu Dhabi, 5.30pm to 9pm, free. Tel: Ultimate Ladies Night @ Zinc
(02) 6563053 WEEKLY
5
It’s club classics all the way at the popular
Terry Francis @ Digital cabin crew hangout, with more drinks
Double bubble from London, as sometime deals than you can shake a FACE card at.
Fabric man Terry Francis takes over Trilogy's Zinc, Crowne Plaza, Sheikh Zayed Road,
main room, while the ever-reliable Norman Dubai, 10pm to 3am, Dhs75, free for ladies.
Jay sets up camp on the Rooftop. Tel: (050) 1515 609
Trilogy, Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, 9pm to Norman Jay @ Digital
3am, Dhs130 to Dhs150. Tel: (050) 7258277
5 MustHaveSoul @
Skylite EW
WEEKLY N
very much in its infancy. All it takes
is good music. There are amazing
events planned for Yas Island, and it
could become a hub for activity for the
capital. We hope to be a big part of it.
Who should come to MustHaveSoul
@ Skylite?
Everyone is welcome; we're not
pretentious. Our parties are all about
giving people good music and nights
they'll remember. The event is on every
Friday so we want people to come
down and let their hair down, have a
good time, enjoy their surroundings
and dance.
And what can we expect tune-wise?
We pride ourselves on our music policy.
Simon Reid, the man People who come to MustHaveSoul
behind soulful dance night can expect the very best in what we
call 'soulful dance music'. So expect
MustHaveSoul, bares his anything from soul, funk, disco and nu
own about the new night disco, to soulful and deep house music.
in Abu Dhabi Plus, we'll be bringing an international
guest once a month.
Why the move to the capital? What's What are your winter 2010 anthems?
the appeal with Skylite? Look out for something very special
Once we saw the venue we knew it coming from one of our DJs – Sean
would work for our style of music. It's McCabe featuring Stephanie Cooke
not pretentious, has a great location coming soon on Kingstreet Sounds,
– on the roof of the hotel, overlooking Also I think Hippie Torrales featuring
Rosie Gaines' Never Quite The Same is
12
the F1 race track. And it has a great
Funktion 1 sound system. We're up there, too.
hoping people from both Abu Dhabi Sum up MustHaveSoul in five words
and Dubai will come down, party with or less.
us and stay the night. We'll be running Must have good times.
GETTY/GALLO IMAGES
a free coach service from Etihad Plaza Skylite, The Yas Hotel, Yas Island,
for Etihad staff, too. Abu Dhabi, 4pm to 2am, free,
So how do you feel about the city’s promotional room rate of Dhs550
scene at the moment? including breakfast. Tel: (055) 6160643.
Mylo @ Digital I feel it’s an untapped market, still www.musthavesoul.com
20
80s @ Stills Layo & Bushwacka @ Digital
WEEKLY Breakbeat fun from the UK duo, who are
DJ Fadi takes you back to the 1980s sure to draw a big crowd.
every Wednesday night. Dig out those Trilogy, Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, 9pm to
legwarmers. Saturday Night Fever @ Alpha 3am, Dhs130 to Dhs150. Tel: (050) 7258277
Stills, Crowne Plaza Abu Dhabi, Yas Island, Abu WEEKLY
Dhabi, 8pm to late, free. Tel: (02) 6563053 Retro-loving fun from the Alpha residents, Soundwave @ Nasimi
12
with disco and more on offer. The little brother to the mammoth
Alpha, Le Méridien Village, Garhoud, Dubai, Sandance, this beach party will feature
9pm to late, Dhs50, free for ladies and FACE Zane Lowe DJing and Nightmares On Wax
card holders. Tel: (050) 9130165 with their full live band. Expect sandy fun
from afternoon to late.
Mylo @ Digital Grant Nelson @ MustHaveSoul Atlantis The Palm, Dubai, 2pm to late, price
Trilogy continues to ship over the big boys; Celebrate MustHaveSoul’s first birthday TBC. Tel: (055) 2004321
27
this time it's Mylo providing the soundtrack with special guest Grant Nelson, regarded
for your Friday night. Expect slick electronica, by many as the pioneer of UK house.
big basslines and a few screaming fans. Support from residents Simon Reid, Tristan
Trilogy, Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, 9pm to Bain and Dan Chadwick.
3am, Dhs130 to Dhs150. Tel: (050) 7258277 360, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai, 4pm to
2am, free. Tel: (055) 6160643 Karizma @ MustHaveSoul
25 19
Acoustic @ Abu Dhabi Gold Club The Baltimore-based spinner drops by for
WEEKLY a night of house action, backed up ably by
Acoustic music every Friday night with Simon Reid, Tristan Bain and Dan Chadwick.
Danny Shirran. 360˚, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai, 4pm to
Abu Dhabi Golf Club, Sas Al Nahkl, Abu 2am, free. Tel: (055) 6160643
Dhabi, 7pm to 10pm, free. Tel; (02) 5588990 Norman Doray @ Armani/Prive
13
The man behind Apocalypse spins the Mr Mr @ Audiotonic
tunes for Armani’s ever-glam crowd.
Armani/Prive, Armani Hotel, Burj Khalifa,
Dubai, 10pm to 3am, free. Tel: (04) 8883888
Just Sundays @ Cavalli Club Ministry of Sound @ Barasti Beach
WEEKLY
Glam clubbing for glam people – expect
the music on the commercial side, and the
people on the well-to-do side.
A beach-side spectacular with MoS tunes,
stilt walkers and fire dancers providing
the entertainment, plus giveaways and
drink promotions.
11 Retrospect @ 360˚
Cavalli Club, Fairmont, Sheikh Zayed Road, Barasti, Le Méridien Mina Seyahi Resort &
Dubai, 8pm to late, free. Tel: (04) 3329260 Spa, Dubai Marina, Dubai, 5pm to 2am, So which era do you most fondly
remember?
19
Dhs100, Dhs50 before 10pm, free for ladies.
Tel: (04) 3991313 I had a great time in the mid to
26
late 70s with Buzzcocks and The
Stranglers. That was a lot of fun and
a lot easier than making ‘80s records.
Mr Mr’s 30th Birthday @ Audiotonic
One of our great musical mates celebrates They were touring bands so you
the big 3-0 with Matthew Charles, Julian Evren Ulusoy @ Audiotonic just plonked them in the studio; you
Jinx, Vas Floyd and Raxon all taking a Turkish delights from Evren, who brings got a good sound, recorded them,
turn behind the deck, live on Radio 1. his brand of deep house to the offshore dubbed the vocals, mixed it and
The birthday boy will also be playing a party. Expect backup from Mr Mr, Vas Floyd went home. Then we moved into
set at 8pm. and Raxon. the 80s and the machines started to
360˚, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai, 4pm to 360, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai, 4pm to develop – and they were primitive
2am, free. Tel: (050) 1076405 2am, free. Tel: (050) 1076405
back then and a nightmare to work. I
remember thinking “I came into the
music industry so I wouldn’t be a bank
clerk, typing on a keyboard, and that’s
exactly what I’m doing”.
Martin Rushent, legendary And how do you feel about
punk, electro and pop advancing technologies these
producer, has worked with days?
I can do things now in five minutes
some of the greats. Now in that used to took me a day. I’m well
his 60s, with a son in electro chuffed!
band Does It Offend You, Who are you working with now?
Yeah?, we caught up with The band I’ve just finished working
on are The Pipettes. Very pop and the
him ahead of his first trip to other end of the playing field to Does
Dubai It Offend You, Yeah?. They had an
album out a while ago, very gimmicky,
What can the 360˚ crowd expect but they’ve made lots of changes.
from you? People react to it like Marmite – either
I’m going to be doing my 1970s and 80s thinking it’s the greatest pop album
set. A mixture of The Human League, bit ever made, or they just hate it.
of Dexy’s Midnight Runners, Spandau Many industry insiders have called
Ballet, Ultravox… a whole range of early you a pioneer. How do you feel
80s artists from ones I’ve produced and about that?
some I really love. I think they’re dead right! There
You worked with seminal post- weren’t many of us doing it back in
punk band Joy Division. How did the day and over the last 20 years I’ve
that come about? been listening to electro and dance
I loved Joy Division. I just thought they and they’re still using little tricks
were fantastic. I remember going up that I developed back in the 80s. The
26
to see them in Manchester, before remarkable thing is when I meet real
anyone had heard of them and they heroes of mine, like Grandmaster
were playing in a tiny little hall above Flash, and they say I was the biggest
some shops. They were just amazing. influence on their work. It’s amazing.
I couldn’t believe it. I told them to 360˚, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai, 8pm
Zane Lowe @ come to London immediately to do to late, free. Tel: (050) 2269440.
Nasimi an album. www.myspace.com/mrushent.
ISTOCK
IT A
.WINW ND LO
WWW TER THIS A ITIONS
TO EN PET
COM
MORE
2010
What makes a great marque an icon? Passion, emotion, innovation and a thoroughbred
Invitation: @V\HYLPU]P[LK[V^P[ULZZHZLSLJ[PVUVMZL]LYHSJSHZZPJ7VYZJOLPJVUZÅV^UPU
from the Porsche Museum in Stuttgart, Germany. Exhibited in Dubai for one day only, do not
miss this chance to embark on a journey into the legendary Porsche history.
Date: Saturday, 6th November 2010
Time: From 12:00 pm onwards
Venue: Porsche Centre Dubai
1st interchange Sheikh Zayed Road, near Mazaya Centre
www.porschedubai.com
TRAVEL
And as if the BBQ wasn’t enough, there will also be popcorn, candy
floss, hotdogs and corn-on-the-cob to fill those empty spaces!
The Fun Day runs from midday until 5pm, whilst the BBQ – which costs
AED80 per person – concludes at 3pm.
TRAVEL | CATALONIA
Wild at heart
From bustling Barcelona
to tiny fishing villages
near the French border, LONG
northern Catalonia has HAUL
something for everyone –
in almost every language.
What’s On takes a tour of
Spain’s ‘Wild Coast’
Costa Brava
seascape
Barcelona's Parc
Guell at sunset
ISTOCK
Three more
reasons to visit
the Costa Brava
El Bulli
Consistently voted one of the world's best
restaurants, Ferran Adria’s El Bulli restaurant
is a short drive from the resort town of Roses.
The chef who put the gastro into molecular
gastronomy has announced that next year (it
only opens from June to December) will be the
restaurant’s last. Get on the waiting list now.
www.elbulli.com
Empúries
This ancient city on the Gulf of Roses was
founded by the Phoenicians in 600BC. After
them, the Greeks and Romans both had their
turn. The result? Ruins from each of the three
cultures can be seen here, including stunning
floor mosaics and the layout of the original
Greek harbour.
Girona
Northern Catalonia’s second city offers all the
trappings of urban life – culture, fine dining and
enough shopping opportunities to make your
bank manager weep – at a considerably more
relaxed pace than Barcelona.
The village of
Cadaques
Santa Maria church homage to Picasso (the artist spent his youth The newest jewel in the city’s style crown,
in the city and is honoured with his own however, is a further short stroll south.
museum on Calle Montcada) and gorge on Designed by famed local architect Ricardo
tapas at legendary local favourite Cal Pep’s Bofill, the sail-shaped W Hotel has been
zinc-topped bar. From there it’s a short stroll called the city’s answer to the Burj Al Arab.
down to stylish charms of Barceloneta. This Pitch up poolside and you’ll be treated to
once working class neighbourhood was given magnificent views over the Mediterranean,
a makeover for the Olympics in 1992 and fine cocktails and an absurdly pretty crowd
hasn’t looked back since. Now it’s all smart of fellow loungers. We settle in, order a
apartments and beachfront bars, a place signature wet mojito and raise a glass. Finally,
where bathing beauties cycle and rollerblade a language we fully understand.
the waterfront by day and live la vida loca
Our first sight upon leaving the station is by night.
the writhing, skeletal artistry of Casa Battló
(casabattlo.es), a private house designed by
Need to know
Antoni Gaudi, the architect whose still- Getting there
unfinished cathedral, La Sagrada Familia, Emirates flies daily from Dubai to Barcelona
serves as architectural mascot for the city and via Madrid from Dhs4,300 in November
remains its most visited attraction.
Further quirks abound over in Montjuïc Accommodation
Park where 4,500 pastel-coloured lightbulbs L Hotel Duran, Figueres. Tel: (+34)
and many thousand litres of water nightly 972501250. www.hotelduran.com
bring the Font Màgica de Montjuïc (that’s L Salvador Dali’s hometown is good base
Magic Fountain to you and me) to life. Eat for visiting spots along the northern
your heart out Dubai Fountain – this baby is Costa Brava
kitsch with a capital ‘K’. L W Hotel Barcelona. Tel: (+34) 932952800.
But Barcelona is as sophisticated as it is www.whotels.com.barcelona
idiosyncratic. With time short, we stop for Spain’s hottest new hotel opening, bar none
a quick coffee in the magnificent Boqueria
indoor food market on La Rambla before La Sagrada Familia Currency
heading to the Gothic Quarter to wander catherdral in Barcelona 1 Euro = Dhs5.1
through its narrow cobbled streets, pay
Island
fever SHORT
HAUL
Lazing, surfing, strolling and Now the civil war is over and I’m back
eating, Sri Lanka’s southern in Sri Lanka, enjoying the beaches again.
I’m lounging at Dalawella, a quiet stretch
shores offer our very own The of guesthouses and mini-resorts just south
Critic, James Brennan, idyllic of Unawatuna along the Galle-Matara coast
respite from city life road. Here the shore is as serene and idyllic
as the laws of nature can allow. All that travel
stress – from airport hassles to the four-hour
night-drive from Colombo – peels away with
I’m in the classic beach holiday position. Feet each majestic rush of seawater. Did you know
up, pointing towards the sea. Head down, more people are killed each year by falling
peering up through gently whispering palm coconuts than shark attacks? Well, that’s all I
fronds at a powdery blue sky. My right hand have to worry about right now. I glance up at
is toying idly with caster-sugar sand, and my the tall palms overhead. No coconuts. As you
left appears to have merged with the atoms, were.
floating somewhere in time and space. Waves The beauty of this particular beach holiday,
crash up against megalithic rocks that emerge above most others, is that you can easily find
from the water like prehistoric beached a pace to suit your mood. When the most you
whales. The rhythmic swoosh of the tide has can be bothered to do is perspire and reach
soothed me into a state of stupefied bliss. for ice cold drinks, Dalawella is perfect. You
Thing is, I hate beach holidays. can just lie there, luxuriating in the gentle
Under normal circumstances, the mere sea breeze as tiny hermit crabs scurry over
suggestion of a beach holiday would have me the rocks, and fishermen cast their lines from
reaching for a Trans-Siberian Railway time- stilt poles driven into the seabed. They sit
table or a map of the West Papuan rainforest. patiently for hours on wooden cross beams a Above:
The brain-blotting torpor of just lying there few feet above the sea, motionless so as not to The view
on a stretch of granulated rock, clutching a disturb the fish. The sun goes down drowsily, from Galle
John Grisham novel and waiting for the sun like an old man getting into bed. lighthouse
to turn me into a human glow stick doesn’t When you feel like upping the tempo
usually appeal. But then there’s Sri Lanka. from such bone-idle inertia to something a Right:
I first visited the teardrop-shaped island to little more invigorating, there’s Unawatuna. An idyllic Sri
the south east of India in 2006. It was almost Slightly more developed than Dalawella, and Lankan beach
two years after the Boxing Day tsunami just a few minutes away by tuk-tuk, Unawa-
claimed thousands of lives and devastated tuna’s beaches are busier, but no less beauti-
communities along its east and south coasts. ful. Scattered around a network of quiet lanes
The country was still in the grip of a long and set back off the main road, there’s a range of
violent civil war, yet I found the indomitable accommodation here, from cheap B&Bs, to
spirit and friendliness of the people instantly all-inclusive resorts. There are beachside ca-
endearing. But it was the raw natural beauty fes, bars and restaurants to flit between after
of the southern coastal areas around Galle sunset and, while the vibe is suitably sleepy,
and Unawatuna that poked a hole through there are plenty of opportunities to socialise
ISTOCK
The most stressful thing you might do and you can ride those breakers until you run
here is haggle with a tuk-tuk driver over out of surf wax. If you haven’t already spotted
fare. A return trip along the coast road, past them trying to dodge your board in the water,
Dalawella to Koggala and Ahangama, should you can visit the nearby Sea Turtle Farm &
cost you no more than five hundred Rupees. Hatchery, where baby turtles are nurtured
And there’s good reason to make the short and released safely back into the sea.
journey. The white sandy beaches get even After a few days of somnambulistic pot-
more picturesque along the way. A haven for tering around the beaches of Dalawella and
wildlife, Koggala Lake attracts a rainbow of Unawatuna, I head to the town of Galle, a few
exotic birds, and the nearby Ananda spice miles down the coast. As my tuk-tuk driver
garden provides the opportunity to stock up threads through a mesh of growling buses
on citronella oil to ward off the inevitable and chugging lorries, I feel my heartbeat
squadrons of mosquitoes. readjusting to the rhythm of town life. Galle’s
Should you really wish to get the blood new town is a Stockhausen symphony of
pumping, Ahangama is to the surfer what car horns, motors and urban noise. It’s the
Dalawella is to the beach slouch. There are cranking engine room of the region, vibrant
precious few attractions here other than the with life, but hardly the most attractive spot
galloping waves, so it’s hardly ever crowded on the coast. Galle’s old town, however, is an
Where to stay
DALAWELLA UNAWATUNA GALLE
SRI GEMUNU UNAWATUNA BEACH RESORT GALLE FORT HOTEL
For the laziest With its family swimming pool, tennis Karl Steinberg and Christopher Ong’s
phase of courts and lively bar area, this is the place to renovated Dutch mansion house is a
your holiday, come if you’re looking to interact with other masterpiece of colonial restoration. A
the relaxed human beings. An all-inclusive package template for any would-be hotelier who’s
simplicity of means that don’t have to leave the complex, thinking of transforming a rundown
this colonial- but tuk-tuks are available outside when property into something truly magical,
style beachfront cabin fever finally sets in. this boutique hotel gets it spot on, from
hotel will hit the spot www.unawatunabeachresort.com the stately reception rooms to the serene
perfectly. Rooms with air conditioning are swimming pool and the classically styled
fine, but the sea-facing fan-only rooms are rooms. If it wasn’t so neatly done, it might
just as good, especially when you open resemble an upmarket auctioneers, there
the shutters and let the gentle breeze and are so many beautiful antiques scattered
crashing waves lull you to sleep at night. about the place. But should a particular
Just try not to sleep too much during piece catch your eye, our friendly
the day. proprietors will gladly listen to offers.
www.sri-lanka-resort.com www.galleforthotel.com
JÅDJ;HEDJ?D;DJ7BÅ 8KÅ>78?Å7BBÅy{{Åustuwt
TRAVEL | TRAVELS WITH...
Adrian Hayes
my whole leg in plaster. But I went back to
Guam a few years later to make amends.
If you could advise people to visit one
destination what would it be?
Nepal. Do a mountain trek amidst some of
the most stunning scenery and the friendliest
people on the planet. And see how it changes
your perspective on your home country.
What are your three top tips for surviving
a long airport stopover?
Always have something to read. A small stuff
What’s the best holiday sack with eyeshades and ear plugs goes with me
UAE-based polar explorer you’ve ever had? everywhere, along with a small air pillow. I can
Adrian Hayes holds the That’s a difficult one, but I guess sleep on any aircraft, noisy bar or even a ditch
Krabi in Thailand. Sun, sand, sea with something for the neck, eyes and ears.
record for reaching the and, erm, rock climbing. Seriously, it’s such a What item do you never travel without?
North Pole, South Pole and stunning location that I went three times in 18 A fold up toothbrush and small tube of paste.
Mount Everest in the quickest months a few years back. Disgusting as it may seem, I’ve gone for 70
What’s been your biggest travel disaster? days without washing at all and am pleased to
time. Having travelled to A small team and myself were doing some report you suffer no ill effects whatsoever. Your
more than 100 countries, he diving work for the Fijian government and teeth, however, is the one exception.
knows a thing or two about I’d planned a four-day sport diving stopover What destination serves the best food?
in Guam on the way back to Hong Kong. I love Indian food, so anything and anywhere
taking a trip. As he prepares I arrived in Guam with a heavily swollen, in the sub continent.
for two major expeditions in poisoned foot – somehow incurred in the www.adrianhayes.com
last week in Fiji – and, turning up at the
2011, the British adventurer
proffers some of his hard
US military base for some medication, was “I’ve gone for 70 days
hospitalised for the full four days whilst they
won travel wisdom worked out what it was. They eventually put without washing at all”
WINTER WONDERLAND
We look forward to the launch of the
A trio of deals for the Emirates Holidays Ski & Winter Holidays
thrifty traveller brochure. We can’t ski, but we really like
looking at the pictures of snow-capped
PACK FOR PHUKET HOT FIVE peaks and be-goggled skiers gliding down
Luxury Hotels by Dnata has just gained It seems discount airfares are all the rage in snow-blanketed European mountainsides
a new property and the Centara Grand the UAE at the moment, and Etihad has five of with seeming ease. For us any attempt
Beach Resort Phuket is offering some the very best to rouse your winter wanderlust. at recreating this feat would end in
alluring opening rates. Located on Karon Fly economy to Bangkok (Dhs1,895), Kuala broken bones, so the Dhs3,562 package
ISTOCK
Beach, all rooms have sea views and the Lumpur (Dhs1,905), Frankfurt (Dhs2,435), to Innsbruck, Switzerland is
property boasts four swimming pools, a Munich (Dhs2,525) and London (Dhs2,505) more our speed. Economy
tennis court and spa. Just Dhs554 without straining the bank balance. The offer flights from Dubai to
for a deluxe room and Dhs1,157 is valid to December 31 and you can travel Munich and three nights
for a luxury pool suite. Based to March 2011. We’re thinking a cheeky long accommodation and
on double occupancy, the weekend in Munich would quell the post- breakfast. Valid to March
offer is valid to December 24. Christmas January blues nicely. 31, 2011.
www.dnata.com www.etihadairways.com www.emirates-holidays.com
You don’t have to be a golfer to enjoy a meal on the stunning grounds of the Yas Links Abu Dhabi on Yas Island. From delicately prepared
spiced duck breast and pan-seared foie gras at Barranca, to the celebratory ambience of a bite with the boys at Hickory’s Sports Bar;
indulge in a little taste of the good life. And let our award-winning chefs show you what it means to dine with a difference.
For enquiries and reservations, please contact +971 2 810 7777 or visit www.yaslinks.com
THE HOT LIST
Key
New entry
Non-mover
Up
Down
p113 Bars
p117 Restaurants
LA PETITE MAISON
p121 Brunches
p125 Spas
1
Consistently full The leafy terrace Ideal for after-office It’s not cheap Building 3, DIFC,
Mini lobster Dubai, Sun to Thurs
of DIFC types, offers welcome cocktails that (hardly surprising
tacos, 11am to 2am.
post-work, and the respite from the morph into dinner. for DIFC), but
mac'n'cheese Tel: (04) 4256677.
beautiful people concrete jungle Next thing you ladies get half
and martinis. www.carameldubai.
later on. Come beyond. We’ll be know, it's midnight. price Cosmos on
Caramel What else can com
Friday, you’d better there on Friday Trust us, we've been Tuesdays from 6pm
we say?
book a table. afternoons for the there. More than a to 9pm.
new late brunch. few times.
2
Fridays start chilled, Slap bang in the Posing, posing and Pretty expensive Guaranteed Jumeirah Beach Hotel,
with lazing on sofas Arabian Gulf, 360˚ more posing to top – especially if you Al Sufouh, Dubai, Sun
to wow, we're
shisha at hand. is accessed by golf tunes. Saturdays are make a day and to Thurs 5pm to late,
willing to Fri and Sat 4pm to
Then darkness falls, buggy (or walking a bit more laid-back night of it. overlook the 2am. Tel: (04) 4068769
the music rises and if you prefer, but though. service for the
360˚ the off-shore party that’s not very views.
„ begins. Dubai is it?).
3
After a long, hot Right on the sand, There’s always a Annoyingly Love it or hate Le Méridien Mina
summer it’s finally Barasti is a multi- familiar face at expensive for such Seyahi Resort &
it, you know
bearable out there, level venue with live Barasti – we defy a casual bar, Barasti Spa, Dubai Marina,
you’ll be there Dubai, 11am to 2am.
so pull up a day music, beds on the you to go and must be raking it in. soon. Tel: (04) 3993333.
bed and order a beach and hordes not bump into www.lemeridien-
Barasti frozen cocktail. around the pool, someone you minaseyahi.com
hoping they won’t know.
get pushed in.
4
Full of friends An evening on the Fantastic food, Some of the beers A cold drink on Crowne Plaza Festival
sharing food at terrace will relax extensive drinks are pricey, but there City, Dubai, Sun to
a balmy night
tables, couples even the most list, cosy design and are budget options Mon 6pm to 2am, Tue
looking at the to Wed noon to 2am,
drinking on the distressed Dubai that European vibe and the food is city? See you on Thurs and Fri noon to
terrace and chaps dweller. This Festival will win your heart. reasonable. the terrace. 3am. Tel: (04) 7012222.
Belgian at the bar enjoying City pub offers valet www.ichotelsgroup.
Beer Café some post-work jars. parking, too. com
5
Tres swank indeed. The Armani hotel Top quality people As steep as the Burj The terrace and Armani Hotel, Burj
There’s the world’s in the world’s watching and Khalifa. We paid Khalifa, Old Town,
DJ line up could
largest LED screen tallest building. The dropping your Dhs400 for three Dubai, Mon to Sat
well propel 10pm to 3am. Tel: (04)
for crying out loud, hottest address in dirhams faster than drinks. Prive up the 8883888.
not to mention those town. Dress up. you can gasp 'how Hot List. www.armanihotels.
Armani/ illuminated booths much?' com
Prive and the newly
opened terrace.
6
It might primarily Zuma was one of Getting dolled up You’ll pay top Building 6, DIFC,
We adore Zuma Dubai, Fri to Wed
be a restaurant, but the first residents in and feeling grown drawer for a drink at for its slick
the upstairs bar and this new nightlife up, before enjoying this world-class bar, noon to 2am, Thurs
space, hot staff noon to 3am. Tel: (04)
terrace are buzzing hub and it certainly a few sakes. but choose wisely and cool crowd. 4255660.
with work hard, play set the standard. (mojitos aren’t too We can’t stay www.zumarestaurant.
Zuma hard types. pricey) and you’ll away. com
emerge relatively
unscathed.
7
Packed come In the middle of The deals. Ladies Mid-range – unless Can be a bit of The Address Dubai
Thursday and more the Marina, this is get complimentary you’re a lady and Mall, Dubai, 7.30pm
a meat market,
chilled during the the city-style bar Cosmos on it’s the weekend, to 2.30am. Tel: (04)
but maybe you 4367777.
week, Blends has this area was crying Thursdays and in which case like that. No www.theaddress.com
shot up the Hot out for. Fridays (8pm to leave your purse at judging here.
Blends List for its people 11pm). Freebies in home.
pleasing. a smart bar are a
rare find.
8
Despite the Old Town is an easy Cocktails, bar Top quality Left Bank is Souk Al Bahar, Old
midnight finish option for most, nibbles and cocktails will set Town, Dubai, 7pm
suitably swank,
(boo), Left Bank adding to Left meeting people. you back about to midnight. Tel: (04)
without being 3684501
is still a reliable Bank’s people- Commandeer a Dhs50, while intimidating.
choice for a casual pleasing charm. booth or nab a snacks are pricey.
Left Bank date or impromptu high table near the But who can resist
night out. bar and see who mini burgers after a
you bump into. few drinks?
9
Where else in Dubai The Gramercy adds The perfect place Generally not too A NYC-style Unit 7, Level 2,
can you eat lobster a cosy touch to to head after work bad, but some of Building 3, DIFC,
hangout, with
while watching DIFC, with warm for some garlicky the new additions Dubai, noon to
Noo Yawker midnight. Tel: (04)
the English wood, chandeliers snails and glass of to the menu are Anthony at the 4377511
Premiership? and raised booths. crisp white. Or beer on the pricey side. helm.
The Nab one of them, and a burger. Choose wisely.
Gramercy quick.
10
Neos is dominated On the 63rd floor Those views reduce Drink slowly and Take visitors The Address
by a jaw-dropping of The Address almost everyone stay away from Downtown Dubai,
or business
window, shiny art Downtown and to tourists with spirits. Dubai, 6pm to 2.30am.
contacts. They'll Tel: (04) 4368927.
deco pillars and a you’ll need to their noses crushed be impressed. www.theaddress.com
large bar. It attracts take two lifts to against the glass,
Neos a well-heeled crowd reach Neos’ lofty, martini in hand.
so don’t expect a luxurious heights.
rowdy night.
HOW COME?
1
The best you’ll White panelled French, or more DIFC. Home We ordered DIFC, Gate
See our full
find in Dubai. walls with specifically to the two too much and Village 8,
paid Dhs930 verdict, p48 Dubai, Sun
Tables at LPM moulding aplenty, Niçoise restaurants
have been in contemporary (from Nice), heading up the (without to Fri noon
alcohol), but to 2.30pm
demand since artworks dotted with sharing Hot List.
La Petite two could and 7pm to
day one. about, dark, bare encouraged. easily eat well 11pm. Tel: (04)
Maison wood floors and a for Dhs650 4390505. www.
long bar. (without lpmdubai.ae
alcohol).
2
It will be Light and Chef Colin DIFC, now Dhs1,000 for Knocked off the Building 6, Gate
interesting to bright with the Clague ensures home to our two. The Ebisu Village, DIFC, Sat to
top spot, but
see how Dubai’s minimum of that the menu two favourite Express lunch Thurs 12.30pm to
it will always 3pm, Sat to Wed
foremost fuss. Make your never becomes restaurants. menu (miso be Dubai’s 7pm to midnight,
Japanese reacts way upstairs boring. Order plus main) is best Japanese Thurs and Fri 7pm
Zuma to its sister for after dinner the veal cutlet. Dhs62, or the restaurant. to 1am. Tel: (04)
restaurant, LPM, drinks. Ebisu (miso plus 4255660. www.
taking the top three courses) is zumarestaurant.
spot. Dhs120. com
3
Pleasant and Statues of Having met Still at Dhs900 Dining at Grosvenor
inviting. The golden gods up with Vineet Grosvenor (without Indego House, Dubai
waiting staff and a cabinet to discuss the House. There’s alcohol), which this month Marina,
represent the of shoes, but revamped a lovely terrace for this level of reminded Dubai, Sun to
other than that fine dining is us just what Thurs 7pm to
pinnacle of menu, we for a pre or
Indego by it’s comfortable well worth it. Vineet Bhatia 11pm. Tel: (04)
politeness. European-style booked a table. post-dinner 3176000. www.
Vineet See our verdict, drink. has done for
fine dining. Indian cuisine. grosvenorhouse-
p52. dubai.com
4
Buzzing, as White walls, Always check At this time of Dhs400 for two. RG is still one Souk Al Bahar,
ever. Even dark wood the specials year prime- Old Town,
of our most
we – yes, us – floors and a board. Don’t dining territory Dubai, Sun to
regular spots Wed noon to
were forced to chalkboard miss the Riv’s is on the terrace. for dinner 11pm, Thurs
accept a second advertising the Dhs80 and Overlooking the and always a to Sat noon
Rivington sitting recently. daily specials. Dhs100 lunch Dubai Fountain. safe bet for an to 11.30pm.
Grill Humph… menus. enjoyable meal. Tel: (04)
4230903. www.
rivingtongrill.ae
5
Personable Understated Special Deira, but it’s Dhs395 for Chef Scott Price Hilton Dubai Creek,
restaurant and shipshape – occassion? Go worth the taxi three courses, Sun to Fri 7pm to
is a guaranteed
manager Alex the very model for the chef’s ride. Dhs495 for 11.30pm. Tel: (04)
the six-course safe pair of 2277550. www.
Gomez keeps of a modern table. If not, hands.
menu, Dhs695 gordonramsay.
things ticking fine dining order the beef
Verre for the chef's com
over nicely. restaurant. Wellington table.
PRICE
ATMOSPHERE WHAT’S ON
INTERIOR INFO FOOD LOCATION PRICE WHAT’S ON INFO
SAYS... SAYS...
6
Upmarket New There’s exposed Go for the 300g Oceana Beach Dhs550 for If you’re
Oceana Beach
York steakhouse, brick in the Australian rib Club is not easy two without Club, The Palm
gents’ toilet. to find. Suffice looking for Jumeirah, Dubai,
with an open eye – beautiful – alcohol, making Dubai’s best
kitchen and We’re talking and choose the to say it’s on The it cheaper noon to 3pm
cool, stylish and Palm. Print out steakhouse, and 6pm to
warm, inviting biggest knife than your here it is.
West 14th sexy. the map on the midnight Tel: (04)
lighting. from the four on website. average Dubai 4477601. www.
offer. steakhouse. west14th.ae
7
Chef Franck Contemporary The new menu Recently voted Three courses for The new menu Park Hyatt
Detrait’s new sophistication. promises some the top hotel in two for around is the perfect Dubai, Deira,
menu is sure to An open kitchen exciting dishes, the Middle East, Dhs615. Dhs280 Dubai, Sun
excuse to
attract the hoards and a vaulted including foie Park Hyatt Dubai per person for to Fri 7pm to
gras terine with has long been revisit Traiteur midnight. Tel:
this month, but ceiling that is the three-course – as if you
Traiteur apple jelly and our favourite in (04) 3172222.
Traiteur is still one of the most ginger bread and the city. set menu. needed one. www.dubai.
the ideal place unforgettable roast scallops park.hyatt.com
for a romantic design features stuffed with
rendezvous. in the city. Comte cheese.
8
Alive with the Think Paris, The dishes that With its own Dhs1,000 and November is all InterContinental
same level of think glamour, emerge from private floor at then some, but about lunch at Dubai Festival
anticipation think ever so Reflet's kitchen the InterCon, the three- Reflets. City, Dubai, 7pm
children feel slightly camp. are not mere Reflets is a course lunch to 1am. Tel: (04)
menu, available 7011128. www.
around the tree food, they are truly exclusive
Reflets Monday to ichotelsgroup.
at Christmas. edible art. destination. Friday, is just com
Par Pierre
Dhs180.
Gagnaire’s
9
We dined at Gary describes it Unfussy food, At the right We spent Gary Rhodes Le Royal
Twenty10 as ‘gangster’ and skilfully prepared. end of town Dhs630 for a Meridien Beach
knows what
recently spent a good Order the lamb in Dubai meal for two. Resort and Spa,
he’s doing and Dubai, 7pm to
and, though five minutes rack rare. Marina. We’d You could easily makes sure his midnight. Tel: (04)
intimate, every justifying that advise a table spend more, or if staff does too. 3995555. www.
Rhodes table was taken. description to upstairs for a you were careful,
Twenty10 Guaranteed garyrhodes.com
Book ahead. us. We’re happy more romantic a little less. good times.
to go along evening.
with it.
10
Book ahead. Subterranean Go for yellowtail Number Dhs700 should We’re guilty of The Monarch
People are still and sultry with sashimi, black One Sheikh buy you three selling Okku as Dubai, Sheikh
talking about a touch of the cod or our Zayed Road. courses, sushi the low-budget Zayed Road,
Okku. illicit (although, particular A respectable and sashimi. alterative to Dubai, 7pm to
Zuma, but it’s midnight. Tel: (04)
of course, it favourite – the address for a 5018777. www.
Okku isn’t). crispy rice. respectable good enough
to stand-alone. okkudubai.com
establishment.
We apologise.
1
A live jazz Chef Franck Eating alfresco Those who truly Up to you. Park Hyatt
Traiteur has it Dubai, Deira,
band, an open Detrait and his on the terrace appreciate the Dhs295 sans all – class, fine
kitchen and team produce is beautiful this joie de vivre. alcohol, Dhs425 Dubai, noon to
cuisine and 4pm. Tel: (04)
a few glasses the some of time of year, or with house music in the air. 3172222. www.
of bubbly the best quality those looking beverages, dubai.park.
Traiteur guarantee a French brasserie for a special Dhs550 with hyatt.com
lively time. fare in town. afternoon can Veuve Cliquot or
book the private Dhs1,500 with a
dining room. limo pick up.
2
The The broadest Three rooms It’s ideal for A wallet- OK, we may Madinat
quintessential spread in the and a terrace, impressing whacking whinge about
Jumeirah,
Friday brunch city. From oxtail so plenty of visitors, and any Dhs495. Dubai, 12.30pm
will never want choice. Thumb the price, but to 4pm. Tel: (04)
burgers to sushi, serious bruncher it’s still one of
for custom, an abra and 3666730. www.
Al Qasr has will visit Al Qasr our favourite
Al Qasr despite its not check out the jumeirah.com
too cheap price something to fill bars at Madinat at least once a brunches ever.
tag. Book ahead. the belly of even Jumeirah when year.
the fussiest of you’re full.
diners.
3
As with dinner, Fresh sushi and DIFC, the newly The best Kitsu package You’ll never Building 6, DIFC,
booking ahead sashimi and an crowned king of Japanese food (no alcohol), Dubai, 12.30pm
go wrong with
is essential exhilarating the Dubai food in Dubai. Dhs315. Kowaku to 4pm. Tel: (04)
our favourite 4255660. www.
for the ever- selection of scene. package (with Japanese zumarestaurant.
popular Zuma dishes from the alcohol), restaurant. com
Zuma brunch. If you regular menu. Dhs425. Kyasha
have a large package with
group, call well champers,
in advance. Dhs550.
4
Definitely one Endless tiny Now the A relatively Dhs225 with Superb food, Park Hyatt
for relaxing sharing plates weather is inexpensive alcohol. alluring location
Dubai, Deira,
rather than laden with tasty cooler, take a and peaceful Dubai, noon to
partying. and no chance 4pm. Tel: (04)
Thai treats. table outside afternoon with of having to 3172222. www.
and enjoy the a few pals. negotiate a dubai.park.
Thai Kitchen view of the swarm of party hyatt.com
marina. animals.
5
Not as hectic All the boxes on Right beside Visitors and a Dhs425, which Don’t miss Madinat
as its bigger our list of high- the water. Take sophisticated makes it a bit Jumeirah,
the turtles
brother Al end brunch a wander onto gathering of cheaper than Dubai, 12.30pm
its Al Qasr next- swimming to 4pm. Tel: (04)
Qasr, but not a fare are ticked the terrace friends. in the water,
door neighbour. 3668888. www.
shrinking violet – champagne, to check out which you can jumeirah.com
Mina A'Salam either. steak, seafood the cooking watch from the
and sushi. stations. terrace.
Bubbalicious
PRICE
ATMOSPHERE WHAT’S ON
FOOD INFOLOCATION BEST FOR PRICE WHAT’S ON INFO
SAYS... SAYS...
6
Outside in the Authentic It depends. Do A relaxing day Dhs300 for Le Royal
Ay carumba! It’s
sun – just where Mexican from you want to out in the sun, pool and beach Méridien Beach
you should be feel the sand a bargain day Resort & Spa,
the team with good food access from
at this time of between your out in the sun. Dubai Marina,
fronted by celeb and drinks too. 10am to 6pm,
year. A laid-back toes, or take a And there’s Dubai, 10am to
chef Richard plus lunch and
beach party dip in the pool? a live DJ and 6pm. Tel: (04)
Maya with Mexican Sandoval. The choice is a 30 per cent 3165550. www.
mariachi band drink discount
food and a few yours. to liven things leroyalmeridien-
cold ones. between 5pm dubai.com
up a bit.
and 7pm.
7
House music, Fresh seafood Dubai's only A lavish Dhs290 with Keep and eye Armani Hotel,
lively chatter buffet, robati designer hotel. afternoon of soft drinks, on this newbie.
Burj Khalifa,
and the grills, a la carte bubbles, sushi Dhs380 Old Town,
reassuring mains – try the and serious with house It has the Dubai, noon
chop-chop from Angus beef – sake for the beverages, potential to rise to 3.30pm. Tel:
the sushi chefs. and platters of grown ups. Dhs585 with up the list. (04) 8883888.
Armani/Hashi It’s an elegant tempura. A supervised Bollinger, www.dubai.
affair that’s far room with Dhs145 for armanihotels.
from stuffy. entertainment children aged com
for the nippers. four to ten.
8
Brash, bleary You can choose Garhoud is at Beer. Just don’t Dhs159 for Garhoud’s Le Méridien
and dominated three courses the other side try and drink draught beers very own beer
Dubai, Garhoud,
by beer swilling from the a la of town for a them all. (bargain), Dubai, 1pm to
Dhs259 for a festival. 4pm, dhs159 to
blokes. carte menu, but lot people, so
choice of 50 Dhs259. Tel: (04)
the beer takes you could have
Warehouse beers from the 7022560. www.
pride of place a long taxi ride Beer Book. lemeridien-
Malt Drunch here. home. dubai.com/en/
dining
9
Spectrum is a Eight kitchens Spectrum has Eating your Dhs550 for fizz, A solid all- Fairmont
stalwart brunch, serving up its very own way around the Dhs395 for the rounder in Dubai, Sheikh
likely to be cuisine from floor (floor one, world. Hops and Vines the high-end Zayed Road,
in any Dubai Europe, unsurprisingly) option which category. Dubai, noon to
veteran’s top 3pm. Tel: (04)
Thailand, China, dedicated solely buys you house
Spectrum On ten, so it’s never 3325555. www.
lacking punters. India, Japan and to food, drink beverages, or fairmont.com/
One the Middle East, and merriment. dine for Dhs295 dubai
plus a port and sans booze.
cheese room.
10
Welcome to Thai treats Dubai Marina, Parents looking Dhs450 for free- Great food, a The Westin
the carnival at Spice which leaves to keep the kids flowing Laurent Mina Seyahi,
Cuban band
with a Cuban Emporium, red plenty of entertained Perrier, cocktails, Dubai, 1pm to
meat cooked to and a bouncy 4pm. Tel: (04)
band, bouncy options for a while they enjoy beer and wine, castle? Works
order on a char 5117136. www.
castle, video post-brunch their food (and or Dhs299 for us.
grill at Hunters starwoodhotels.
Bubbalicious games corner, and a lavish tipple. drink). excluding com
petting zoo and buffet at Blue alcohol.
a cinema. Orange.
ay
Frid ic
la Ch
Fave
1
Knowledgeable There’s a lengthy One of the most There are monthly Park Hyatt Dubai,
A treatment at
and professional, and luxurious list beautiful spaces offers that take Deira, Dubai,
these relaxation of treatments on in Dubai, Amara Amara makes 9am to 10pm.
the sting out of
experts will take offer. Grouped has a courtyard everything Tel: (04) 6021234.
the steep prices –
you from stressed by theme, there’s with daybeds, a better. We www.dubai.park.
but the quality of
Amara out to blissed out. an emphasis stunning outdoor love it. hyatt.com
We recommended on rituals and pool and each products, spa and
Sue if knots packages that treatment room therapists more
are your main include pool and has a private than justify them.
problem. health club access. outdoor shower.
2
Quiet, kind and Innovative and Asian chic with Choose wisely and Check out our The Beach Club, Al
with a firm hand imaginative, you’ll splashes of jewel you’ll get an hour- review of the Jet Nafura, Shoreline
when necessary, find treatments tones; the cosy long massage for Lag treatment Apartments, The
Sensasia’s staff you never knew rooms are a true Dhs310. on page 74. Palm Jumeirah,
Sorted us out Dubai,
are trained to the you needed. retreat. And the 10am to 10pm.
Sensasia highest standards. We love specific dressing gowns are no end.
Tel: (04) 4227115.
Urban Spa massages like the best in town. www.sensasiaspas.
the Hi Heeler for com
aching feet.
3
There’s a mix Talise sets itself The treatment Various, but the The Optimal Al Qasr, Al Sufouh,
of nationalities apart with its rooms are linked 80-minute Royal Dubai,
Health
and specialities, naturopath, life by leafy outdoor Hammam is a fair 9am to 10pm.
Assessment Tel: (04) 3666818.
from massage coaching and pathways, with Dhs450. (Dhs1,495 until www.jumeirah.
therapists to a GP. medical testing, an outdoor pool December 1) is com/talise
Talise Spa This spa is packed in addition to the tucked away for superb.
with experts. large spa menu. those day-long spa
sessions.
4
Modern zen There are You’d never expect It’s pricey, but Quiet and The Address
awaits at this separate menus this shrine to worth it for luxurious, with Dubai Mall, Old
vast spa, with for ladies and de-stressing to the quality of quality added Town, Dubai, 9am
experienced gents. Particularly be mere minutes treatments and extras, this spa to 9pm. Tel: (04)
is a true retreat. 4388888.
therapists on recommended from the hectic snooze you’ll enjoy. www.theaddress.
The Spa hand to guide you is the Jet Lag Dubai Mall. It’s the com
from reception to treatment (see perfect antidote
relaxation. page 74). to an afternoon of
shopping.
5
An international There’s no As stylish as you’d Not as bad as The unique Armani Hotel, Burj
mix of staff. treatment menu expect from you fear, with 90 Khalifa, Old Town,
'decide for you'
We had a as such, just book Giorgio. It’s a sleek minutes costing Dubai,
approach is 9am to 9pm.
knot-busting a time slot (from space with dark Dhs650, up to great for spa Tel: (04) 8883888.
South African. 90 minutes to a greys and clean Dhs2,500 for a newbies. www.dubai.
Armani/Spa Impressive. full day) and the lines. Should full day. armanihotels.com
therapist decides. appeal to men as
well as the ladies.
6
Male and female The menu invites Shared steam and Mid-range, with Desert Palm, Al
What could be
therapists are you to 'drop sauna facilities a 60-minute Ann Awir Road, after
available with your robe, cares make it an ideal better than a International City,
Semonin massage
their extensive and guard'. destination for rub down then Dubai, 9am to 9pm.
for Dhs450 and an
knowledge. Cheeky. There are couples. We steak at Rare? Tel: (04) 3238888.
hour of reflexology
Lime Spa They’re happy to Anne Semonin especially like the Nothing. www.desertpalm.ae
answer questions, treatments, plus clever two-way for Dhs395.
or just let you a choice ranging windows so you
nod off. from ear candling can look out over
to sculpting rituals. the polo fields.
7
The female Each month Hidden away in Well priced at We tried a 1074 Uttamah Villas,
therapists at this brings new an Al Wasl villa, around Dhs350 fruity orange
Al Wasl Road, Jumeira,
ladies-only spa treatments and the spa is a cosy for an hour-long Dubai, 10am to 10pm.
undergo two discounts. You’ll escape with a massage. Keep an facial a few Tel: (04) 3489679. www.
years of training find everything lovely garden for eye out for those weeks ago thaiprivilegespadubai.
and the results from blow-dries to yoga. special offers, too. and are still com
Thai Privilege are impressive. luxury rituals, all glowing.
Spa with a Thai flavour.
8
The team at The extensive list It’s an impressive You’re on The Palm A spa that Atlantis The Palm,
Atlantis will greet covers gentlemen’s spa with a huge so expect to pay will have you Palm Jumeirah, Dubai,
you with ginger shaves, expert staircase, beautiful the big bucks, 10am to 10pm. Tel:
with two-hour wanting more (04) 4261020. www.
tea, treat you to pedicures, lengthy ‘floating’ walkway (and asking for
packages costing atlantisthepalm.com
some high quality rituals and more. and underwater- a pay rise).
Spa & Fitness Dhs1,000. They’ve
pampering then Particularly themed treatment priced it with
Centre bring more tea. recommended are rooms. tourists in mind,
the Clarins facials. but it’s worth
treating yourself.
9
All graduates Asian-inspired It's a bit of a trek to Five-star prices The Rainforest Banyan Tree Al Wadi,
from the Banyan therapies in exotic RAK so you need for five-star Ras Al Khaimah, 10am
includes an ice
Tree Academy, treatment rooms. to spend the day treatments, but to 10pm. Tel: (07)
igloo, tropical 2067777.
so you're in safe (which means an hour in The showers, www.banyantree.
hands. spending big) to Rainforest (a hammam and com
Banyan Tree make the journey hydrotherapy more.
Al Wadi worthwhile. experience) is only
Dhs77.
10
Super friendly Try the fourhanded Seriously soft Slightly above Enjoy a The Monarch, Sheikh
and dedicated to Mandara dressing gowns, average at Dhs470 Zayed Road, Dubai,
massage
making your me- Massage. You’ll Elemis facials for the 65-minute 9am to 10pm. Tel:
and lunch at (04) 5018888. www.
time as enjoyable be pushed, pulled and the beautiful Muscle Ease Okku or Ruth’s themonarchdubai.
as possible. and pulverised steam room were massage. Chris for only com
Mandara Spa into a state of our highlights. Dhs299.
somnolence by
two therapists.
P.O.Box 30430, Dubai, U.A.E. T: +971 (0)4 312 2202, F: +971 (0)4 312 2207, fb.towers@rotana.com.
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