Automation in the dyeing laboratory and its influence
on accuracy in batch dyeing
Hazel N Harvey and James Park
Dymatecs Ltd. 25 Long Furrow Industrial Estate, East Goscote, Leicester LE7 8XJ
Accurate laboratory dyeing techniques that correlate with bulk processing are essential if cost-effective
coloration processes are to be established. This will result in the ability to utilise successfully blind dyeing
techniques, which will assist in giving the desired quick response to the market and ensure that the material
{s ‘right first time’. The laboratory dyeing activity has often been criticised by the practical dyer and reasons
for this are discussed. Methods of improving laboratory accuracy are reviewed together with several recent
developments in laboratory automation. The advantages and disadvantages of the latter are considered.
Finally an approach to automation, developed by the authors. that is likely t0 be of value to the smaller
dyeing laboratory is presented.
INTRODUCTION
Laboratory dyeing is a major function of any successful
‘commercial dyeing venture. The functions of the dyehouse
laboratory have been admirably described by Thompson
[1], and can be summarised as:
(a) The evaluation and selection of dyes and dyebath
additives together with the development of appropr
ate application techniques
(b) The preparation of databases for computer match
prediction
(€) The matching of shades for bulk production,
Adequate laboratory dyeing services are undoubtedly
required if the dyer is to be successful and meet all the
‘matching criteria demanded by the customer. Le.
{a} Material on-shade and non-metameric
{b) Level application
(c). Satisfactory fastness properties
(a) Satisfactory physical properties
(@} Total processing (including coloration) within cost
budget
(Delivery on time
‘The dyer incurs severe financial penalties if he is unable
to obtain reproducible dyeing, either as a result of poor
laboratory dyeing or through deficiencies in bulk dyeing
procedure (Table 1)
TABLE 1
‘Comparison of process costs
Relative
Technique cost
Blind dyeing 100
No-adaition dyeing 105,
Dyeing plus addition 130
Increasing commercial pressures, the need forefficient,
short, robust and reproducible dyeing processes, often in
conjunction with automation, have increased the impor-
tance of the laboratory function, and in the modern
dyehouse the laboratory should be considered as the nerve
centte. High-quality laboratory dyeing allows blind dyeing
techniques to be employed (Figure 1),
Preparation
‘of catabases pence
dyeabity
| < J check
| N
‘evaluation
Figure 1 ~ Procedural routes involuing laboratory dyeing
‘Whether laboratory dyeing can be omitted through the
adoption of computer matching depends to some extent
on the philosophy of the individual dyehouse. In practice
there are two altemative views but both depend on the
availability of accurately prepared databases. The frst is
the ideal approach in which all the potential variables. such
‘as water quality, dve strength and substrate dyeability. are
correlated to the primary database. This approach re-
‘quites.a great deal of laboratory work including correlation
diyeings, but it gives a high quality of prediction and allows
for the application of such predictions directly to bulk
«dyeing, The second approach is the “match of the day’
approach illustrated in Figure 2. This requires ess labora-
tory work for determining the correlations and testing. but
it is unlikely that the predictions resulting can be used
rectly in bulk dyeing,
USDC Volume 105 May/June 1989 2071. | Prectet win primary database
atry out laboratory dyeing under curent condtions (sub-
oi
sate, wale, dye. et)
@
oy
‘o
@
‘Match of the day. which may be
‘alstactory for tanstor to buk dvecty, of
Satisfactory for vanster attr visual correction, oF
Satistaclory for vansfr alter computer correction, or
Satistactory for Vanster after computer correction
further laboratory dyeing
|
Figure 2 ~ "Match of the day’ option to calour matching, showing that matches may oniy seldom be directly transferable 10
bulk, but on the other hand calls for less laboratory effort
REPRODUCIBILITY
To obtain reproducible dyeing, whether this is on a
laboratory, pilot plant or bulk scale, many factors in the
dyeing process must be controlled or measured:
~ Quality of water supply
Preparation of substrate
Dyeability of substrate
Weight of substrate
‘Weighing of dyes and chemicals,
Dispensing method for dyes and chemicals
Selection of dyes
Standardisation of dyes
Moisture content of dyes
Moisture content of substrate at weighing
Dyebath additives
Liquor ratio
pH of dyebath
Machine flow and reversal sequence
Time/temperature profile
Sumner concluded 2} that inaccuracies in weighing and.
measuring were the major source of off-shade batches.
ACCURACY OF LABORATORY DYEING
Litlle quantitative data have been published on the accu-
racy of laboratory dyeing methods, and criticisms have
been expressed about the reproducibility of laboratory
dyeing on the grounds summarised in Figure 3 [3] and
Table 2 [4
Many practical dyers presumably agree with this data
since traditionally their firstaction is to subtract 10 to 15%
from the quantities given in laboratory recipes before
proceeding to bulk dyeing, This i, of course, counterpro-
ductive since in most instances at least one addition is
needed when the subtracted quantities (or more) have tobe
subsequently added to the batch dyeing. To achieve a
satisfactory service from the laboratory in any of the
functions already mentioned. two conditions must be met:
{@) The laboratory dyeing procedure must correlate with
bulk practice
(@) Accuracy of weighing and measuring must be of a high
order in both the laboratory and the dyehouse. Table
208 JSDC Volume 105 May/June 1989
3 summarises the limits of accuracy that must be
imposed if reproducibility to an accuracy of one AE
{UPC 79) unit is to be obtained.
Duplicate dyeings
"O
(0.5 MacAdam units
Figure 3 ~ Variation in dyeings (Derby): dyeings 1-10 were
‘made simultaneously by using a standard formula under
carefully controlfed conditions
Inasurveyof dyehouses. it issurprising how many of he
factors lsted in the section on reproducibility are different
in the laboratory and the works. Those most commonly
found at variance are listed below:
~ Water suppiy used
Different substrates
- Source of due sample
Dye application method
Liquor ratio
pH of dyebath,
Time/temperature profile
Method of assessing shade,TABLE 2
Variations in dyeing (Brockes)
Corresponding
dye conen,
diflerences 0)
ANLAB (40)
units
Industial tolerances 12
First trials of computer prediction
Under good conditions
Under poor conditions
23
10-20
30 oF more
fardware/software Satisfactory
Database preparation
Main source of ertor
Laboratory weighing procedure
TABLE 3
Morsture content of dye
ture content of substrate
hing of substrate
Weighing of dyes. ausiliaries and chemicals
Dye standardisation
pH of dyebath
tunis
‘As an example, the differences in the laboratory water
supply and the works supply in one particular location
alone gave a colour difference of AE = 3 between dveings,
as determined using the JPC 79 equation
Having correlated all the above variables. it is then
necessary to obtain accuracy in measuring and weighing
Dye solutions and dispersions must be prepared accurately
using precision balanices, approved dissolving/dispersing
techniques and high-quality glassware for make-up. When
using traditional techniques this requires balances capable
of weighing to the accuracy of 0.001 or 0.0001 of agram
‘a magnetic strivrer and a hot plate.
The substrate for dyeing must also be weighed accu:
rately. The dyebaths ate then prepared accurately from
solutions of the necessary strength. The use of "pea
shooter’ pipettes has been criticised [5] and these inade-
quacies increase when ‘sawnroff' versions are employed in,
fained hands. However, adequate and satisfactory
results and good reproducibility can be obtained from the
traditional approach if staff are properly trained.
AUTOMATION IN LABORATORY DYEING
Arrecent development in the automation of the traditional
approach to laboratory dyeing has taken place. Firstly the
dye is weighed on a balance interfaced with a personel
computer (PC). When the approximate weight required is
achieved, the PC instructs thal the required amount of
solvent be added to a weighing flask (Figure 4). Then
recipes held in a computer can be automatically prepared
Jn a unit holding a large number of solutions prepared by
the above equipment. The weight of the substrate is fed to
the computer and automatic recipe calculation is included
in the lunetion (Figure 5). Equipment of this type has been
developed by a number of companies (see Appendix). The
systems have a number of advantages and disadvantages,
as are listed below.
Advantages
Good accuracy with less qualified staff
Improved speed ~ 25% time required compared to
manual methods
Labour saving ~ 50 reduction
advantages
~ Dye preparation and dispensing units requiring a lot of
spac
Many dyes have a short shell-ie in solution or disper
sion form
High cost of both units
Requires minimum preparation of 50 dyebaths per
hour to be cost effective
Figure 4 ~ ICS-Gain Dyemaster
Many dyehouses are unable to justify the capital exper
diture of approximately £60.000 on such equipment. Ir
addition, it has been shown that many of the solutions and,
dispersions with a short shelf-life can, after only a few
hours storage. introduce a colour difference of between
three and five AE units into the dyeing, However, for large
organisations that use only 2 relatively few dyes and where
solutions are used rapidly and replaced such a system can
give a short pay-back period in addition to improved.
accuracy.
JSDC Volume 105 May/June 1989 209Figure 5 ~ Automated dispensing unit
This is indicated in Table 4, based on two dyehouse
operations in the USA,
‘TABLE 4
Cost advantages
Company scenario
Production 2000 tonnes per week
Dyehouse laboratory staff 27 technicians on three shifts
Dyes 808% of produetion from six
dyes
Laboratory dyeing capacity 4000 per week
Installation of laboratory
dispensing unit
Cost £60,000
Effect Reduction of staff by six
Pay-back,
An alternative approach, especially for the smaller
laboratory, isto use electronic pipettes (Figure 6) at a cost
of around £500 each [6},Itis possible with such apparatus
torepeat dyeing toacolour difference of 0.2 SE units (JPC
79 formula) with untrained technicians.
An intermediate approach is to introduce a further PC
into the system, this being interfaced with a balance for
Weighing substrates. Recipes loaded into the PC are then
calculated in terms of quantities of dye solution required
based on the weight of substrate. This option allows
freedom in both substrate weight used, which need not be
restricted to exactly 5 or 10 g pieces, and the strength of
dye solutions prepared
Whilst all three methods described depend on auto:
mated dye preparation equipment, the latter two use
manual dispensing methods and the EDP can be utilised to
advantage,
TOTAL LABORATORY AUTOMATION
The automation of the !wo most important areas in
laboratory dveing has been described above. Total auto”
210 JSDC Volume 105 May/June 1989
Figure 6 ~ Electronic dispensing pipette (EDP)
‘mation is now possible but, of course, at a cost. Perhaps
only the larger laboratories can afford to consider this,
some of the areas involved are
CAM/CAD/colour specifier shade selection
~ Computer colour matching
= Dye storage facility
— Weighing booth
~ Solution preparation
~ Automated dispensin,
~ Robot trolley
Dyeing (controlled machine/MPI)
— Computer quality control of dyeing/correction,
Major developmentsin this area have occurred in Japan
(7]. including the use of robotics to move dyeing tubes to
the machine. Whether or not multiproduct injection
techniques are required in the laboratory is debatable,
especially since dyeing technology is moving to the use of
alkin’ techniques,
TABLE 5
Productivity comparison (8 h shift)
Dyeings per
Level of automation technician
Fully automated 44
Automated solution preparation + EDP 40TABLE 6
Limits of accuracy
Matching tolerances
Substrate variability in dyeing
Varability in water supply
Instability of dye solution
Alispersion
Computer prediction
Variation in weighing of 5
Repeat knitting or card-wrapping
for assessment
Batch levelness
Repeatability in bull.
Laboratory dyeing reproduebility
Spectrophotometer reproducibility
We ourselves have developed a system that offers
advantagesin cost to the smaller laboratory or where fewer
dyes are used: the procedure is:
1. Dye is weighed in an extraction booth on PC-moni-
tored balance and portion of solvent added
2. The material is transferred for pasting to magnetic
stirrer/hot plate
3. PC instructs that the remainder of solvent be added to
make up to the required volume
4, An electronic pipette is used for dispensing
‘The productivity of a fully automated laboratory com-
pared with that from a laboratory employing such a small
system is shoum in Table 5.
Iris also worth considering the limits of accuracy that
can now be achieved inthe dyeing process, and these are
outlined in Table 6.
‘CONCLUSION
“The era of the automated dyeing laboratory has arrived
and itis now possible to carry out dyeings to a high level
of accuracy with relatively unskilled staff, This wil increase
the reproducibility of dyeing when the accuracy obtained
's linked with laboratory methods that correlate with the
bulk process. Blind dyeing techniques can them be
achieved, giving reduced costs with a quick response and
‘material that is ‘right fist time’. However, asis customary
with all forms of automation, careful costelfectiveness
studies are required to determine what level of automation
can be justified in ermsof an appropriate pay-back period.
SE UPC 79)
= most end uses 10
~ tight tolerances 03-05
~ aeryle 0.15
‘wool 15
= bulked c 4.0
30
3.0-5.0
~ typical 25-30
= optimum <10
25
01s
02
02
~ trained operative
with class A pipette 0.8
~ untrained operative
swith EDP 02
REFERENCES,
TM Thompson, ‘Duvaowse lboratony practice (Bradford: SDC.
1983
2 HE Summer, ISDC., 92 (1976) 84
4 RE Derty. Color technology inthe textile industry’ Resear
‘Triangle Park, USA; AATCC. 1983) 7
4. A Brockes, “Color technology in the textile industry’ Resear
‘Tranale Park, USA, AATCC, 1983) 177
5, Gaunt, JSDC, 108 (1987) 225,
6. HIN Harvey ane d Park, IS.D.C.. 104 (1988) 138,
7. ‘Flexible dyeing lhoraton” (Sumitomo Chemical Co, Led 1988}
APPENDIX
Makes and country of origin of automated dispens-
ing units
Color Agent Systems, Japan
CIR aly
Daika, Japan
Excom, Japan
Emori Shoji. Japan
ICS-Gain. UK and Taiwan
Ishizaka Shoji. Japan
Kurabo, Japan
Nippo Kayaku, Japan
Sakata Shokai, Japan
Sumitomo. Japan
Technorama, kaly
Toyobo, Japan
‘Tsuyakin Koavo, Japan
JSDC Volume 105 May/June 1989 211