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A Multimeter is an electronic instrument, every electronic technician and engineers widely used
piece of test equipment. Multimeter is mainly used to measure the three basic electrical
characteristics of voltage, current and resistance. It can also be used to test continuity between two
points in a electrical circuit. This post mainly introduces the basic information of multimeter,
applications and types of multimeter are in. Let’s see all of these.

Multimeter has multi functionalities like, it acts like ammeter, voltmeter and ohmmeter. It is a
handheld device with positive and negative indicator needle over a numeric LCD digital display.
Multimeters can be used for testing batteries, household wiring, electric motors and power
supplies.

Applications:

The applications of ammeter mainly involves in various electrical and electronic projects for the
purpose of components testing and also used in different measurement applications in multimeter.

1. Temperature and Environmental Applications

o Low cost weather station
o DMM internal temperature
2. Voltage Measurements
o High and low value DC measurement
o Peak to Peak and DC average measurement
3. Current Measurements
o DC current measurement
o True RMS AC current
4. Resistance Measurement
o Micro ohm meter
o Measuring resistance with constant voltage
o Measuring resistance with constant current
5. Time and Frequency measurement
o Fast frequency
o Time measurement

Types of Multimeters:

There are different types of multimeter like Analog, Digital and Fluke multimeters.

Digital Multimeter:

We mostly used multimeter is digital multimeter (DMM). The DMM performs all functions from
AC to DC other than analog. It has two probes positive and negative indicated with black and red
color is shown in figure. The black probe connected to COM JACK and red probe connected by
user requirement to measure ohm, volt or amperes. The jack marked VΩ and the COM jack on
the right of the picture are used for measuring voltages, resistance and for testing a diode. The two
jacks are utilized when LCD display that shows what is being measured (volts, ohms, amps, etc.).
Overload protection that prevents damage to the meter and the circuit, and protects the user.

Digital Multimeter

The Digital Multimeter basically consists of a LCD display, a knob to select various ranges of the
three electrical characteristics, an internal circuitry consisting of a signal conditioning circuitry, an
analog to digital converter. The PCB consists of concentric rings which are connected or
disconnected based on the position of the knob. Thus as the required parameter and the range is
selected, the section of the PCB is activated to perform the corresponding measurement. To
measure the resistance, current flows from a constant current source through the unknown resistor
and the voltage across the resistor is amplified and fed to a Analog to Digital Converter and the
resultant output in form of resistance is displayed on the digital display. To measure an unknown
AC voltage, the voltage is first attenuated to get the suitable range and then rectified to DC signal
and the analog DC signal is fed to A/D converter to get the display, which indicates the RMS value
of the AC signal. Similarly to measure an AC or DC current, the unknown input is first converted
to voltage signal and then fed to analog to digital converter to get the desired output(with
rectification in case of AC signal).

Advantages of a Digital Multimeter are its output display which directly shows the measured
value, high accuracy, ability to read both positive and negative values.

Analog Multimeter:

The Analog Multimeter or VOM (Volt-Ohm-Milliammeter) is constructed using a moving coil

meter and a pointer to indicate the reading on the scale. The moving coil meter consists of a coil
wound around a drum placed between two permanent magnet. As current passes through the coil,
magnetic field is induced in the coil which reacts with the magnetic field of the permanent magnets
and the resultant force causes the pointer attached to the drum to deflect on the scale, indicating
the current reading. It also consists of springs attached to the drum which provides an opposing
force to the motion of the drum to control the deflection of the pointer.
 Analog Multimeter

For measurement of DC current, the D Arsonval movement described above can be directly used.
However the current to be measured should be lesser than the full scale deflection current of the
meter. For higher currents the current divider rule is applied. Using different values of shunt
resistors, the meter can also be used for multi range current measurement. For current measurement
the instrument is to be connected in series with the unknown current source.

For measurement of DC voltage, a resistor is connected in series with the meter and the meter
resistance is taken into account such that the current passing through the resistor is same as the
current passing through the meter and the whole reading indicates the voltage reading. For voltage
measurement, the instrument is to be connected in parallel with the unknown voltage source. For
multirange measurement, different resistors of different values can be used, which are connected
in series with the meter.

For measurement of resistance, the unknown resistance is connected in series with the meter and
across a battery, such that the current passing through the meter is directly proportional to the
unknown resistance.

For AC voltage or current measurement, the same principle is applied, except for the fact that the
AC parameter to be measured is first rectified and filtered to get the DC parameter and the meter
indicates the RMS value of the AC signal.

Advantages of an Analog Multimeter are that it is inexpensive, doesn’t require a battery, can
measure fluctuations in the readings.

The two main factors affecting the measurement are the sensitivity and the accuracy. Sensitivity
refers to the reciprocal of the full scale deflection current and is measured in ohms per volt.

Fluke Multimeter:

The fluke multimeters are protected against the transient voltage. It is a small portable device used
to measure voltage, current and test diodes. The multi meter has multi selectors to select the desired
function. The fluke MM automatically ranges to select most measurements. This means the
magnitude of the signal does not have to be known or determined to take an accurate reading, it
directly moved to the appropriate port for the desired measurement. The fuse is protected to prevent
the damage, if connected to wrong port.

Fluke Multimeter
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What is a digital multimeter?

A digital multimeter is a test tool used to measure two or more electrical values—principally
voltage (volts), current (amps) and resistance (ohms). It is a standard diagnostic tool for
technicians in the electrical/electronic industries.

Digital multimeters long ago replaced needle-based analog meters due to their ability to measure
with greater accuracy, reliability and increased impedance. Fluke introduced its first digital
multimeter in 1977.

Digital multimeters combine the testing capabilities of single-task meters—the voltmeter (for
measuring volts), ammeter (amps) and ohmmeter (ohms). Often, they include several additional
specialized features or advanced options. Technicians with specific needs, therefore, can seek out
a model targeted to meet their needs.

The face of a digital multimeter typically includes four components:

 Display: Where measurement readouts can be viewed.

 Buttons: For selecting various functions; the options vary by model.
 Dial (or rotary switch): For selecting primary measurement values (volts, amps, ohms).
 Input jacks: Where test leads are inserted.
Test leads are flexible, insulated wires (red for positive, black for negative) that plug into the
DMM. They serve as the conductor from the item being tested to the multimeter. The probe tips
on each lead are used for testing circuits.

The terms counts and digits are used to describe a digital multimeter's resolution—how fine a
measurement a meter can make. By knowing a multimeter's resolution, a technician can
determine if it is possible to see a small change in a measured signal.

Example: If a multimeter offers a resolution of 1 mV on the 4 V range, it is possible to see a

change of 1 mV (1/1000th of a volt) while reading 1V.

Digital multimeters are typically grouped by their number of counts (up to 20,000) they display.

Broadly speaking, multimeters fall into one of a handful of categories:

 General purpose (aka Testers)

 Standard
 Advanced
 Compact
 Wireless
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A multimeter, also known as a volt-ohm meter, is a handheld tester used to measure electrical
voltage, current (amperage), resistance, and other values. Multimeters come in analog and digital
versions and are useful for everything from simple tests, like measuring battery voltage, to
detecting faults and complex diagnostics. They are one of the tools preferred by electricians for
troubleshooting electrical problems on motors, appliances, circuits, power supplies, and wiring
systems. DIYers also can learn to use multimeters for basic measurements around the house.

Analog Multimeters

An analog multimeter is based on a microammeter (a device that measures amperage, or current)

and has a needle that moves over a graduated scale. Analog multimeters are less expensive than
their digital counterparts but can be difficult for some users to read accurately. Also, they must
be handled carefully and can be damaged if they are dropped.

Analog multimeters typically are not as accurate as digital meters when used as a voltmeter.
However, analog multimeters are great for detecting slow voltage changes because you can
watch the needle moving over the scale. Analog testers are exceptional when set as ammeters,
due to their low resistance and high sensitivity, with scales down to 50µA (50 microamperes).

Digital Multimeters

Digital multimeters are the most commonly available type and include simple versions as well as
advanced designs for electronics engineers. In place of the moving needle and scale found on
analog meters, digital meters provide readings on an LCD screen. They tend to cost more than
analog multimeters, but the price difference is minimal among basic versions. Advanced testers
are much more expensive.

Digital multimeters typically are better than analog in the voltmeter function, due to the higher
resistance of digital. But for most users, the primary advantage of digital testers is the easy-to-
read and highly accurate digital readout.

Using a Multimeter

The basic functions and operations of a multimeter are similar for both digital and analog testers.
The tester has two leads—red and black—and three ports. The black lead plugs into the
"common" port. The red lead plugs into either of the other ports, depending on the desired
function.

After plugging in the leads, you turn the knob in the center of the tester to select the function and
appropriate range for the specific test. For example, when the knob is set to "20V DC," the tester
will detect DC (direct current) voltage up to 20 volts. To measure smaller voltages, you would
set the knob to the 2V or 200mV range.

To take a reading, you touch the bare metal pointed end of each lead to one of the terminals or
wires to be tested. The voltage (or other value) will read out on the tester. Multimeters are safe to
use on energized circuits and equipment, provided the voltage or current does not exceed the
maximum rating of the tester. Also, you must be careful never to touch the bare metal ends of the
tester leads during an energized test because you can receive an electrical shock.

Multimeter Functions

Multimeters are capable of many different readings, depending on the model. Basic testers
measure voltage, amperage, and resistance and can be used to check continuity, a simple test to
verify a complete circuit. More advanced multimeters may test for all of the following values:

 AC (alternating current) voltage and amperage

 DC (direct current) voltage and amperage
 Resistance (ohms)
 Capacity (farads)
 Conductance (siemens)
 Decibels
 Duty cycle
 Frequency (Hz)
 Inductance (henrys)
 Temperature Celsius or Fahrenheit

Accessories or special sensors can be attached to some multimeters for additional readings, such
as:

 Light level
 Acidity
 Alkalinity
 Wind speed
 Relative humidity
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What Is The Function Of A Multimeter?

Venkatesh Vaidyanathan 7 months ago

When it comes to gauges, scales and meters, they are usually primed to measure a few parameters
at the most. However, what if there was a meter that could measure multiple parameters? This is
where the multimeter steps in. A multimeter is an instrument widely used by electrical
engineers and serves a broad spectrum of functions. There’s a multimeter for every occasion, from
DIY electronic projects to high-voltage engineering. Now, let’s take a look at the details of a
multimeter’s operation.

Operation of a Multimeter

A multimeter is not just a single device. It is a combination of a multi-range DC voltmeter, multi-

range AC voltmeter, multi-range ammeter, and multi-range ohmmeter. It’s packed to the brim with
all the necessary parts of this configuration. When it comes to the analog multimeter, DC voltage
is measured with a series resistor connected between the meter movement and the circuit under
test. A switch that is usually of a rotary type, which allows greater resistance to being inserted, is
in series with the meter movement to read higher voltages. Obtaining the full-scale voltage for the
entire range is done by calculating the product of the basic full-scale deflection current of the
movement, and the sum of the series resistance and the movement’s resistance.
(Image Credit: Flickr)

When it comes to the measurements of resistance, there is a battery present in the multimeter that
passes current through the measurement coil. The current available depends on the charge of the
battery, which changes over time; a multimeter usually has an adjustment for the ohm scale to zero it.
The ohm’s scale is compressed, so the resolution is better at lower resistance values. Amplified
instruments simplify the design of the series and shunt resistor networks. The internal resistance of the
coil is decoupled from the selection of the series and shunt range resistors; the series network thus
becomes a voltage divider. Where AC measurements are required, the rectifier can be placed after the
amplifier stage, improving precision at low range.

Analog Multimeter and Digital Multimeter

For analog multimeters, current ranges, matched low-resistance shunts are connected in parallel
with the meter movement to divert most of the current around the coil. Moving coil instruments
can respond only to the average value of the current through them. To measure alternating current,
which oscillates repeatedly, a rectifier is inserted in the circuit so that each negative half cycle is
inverted; the result is a varying and nonzero DC voltage with a maximum value that is half the AC
peak to peak voltage, assuming a symmetrical waveform. Since the rectified average value and the
root mean square (RMS) value of a waveform are only the same for a square wave, simple rectifier-
type circuits can only be calibrated for sinusoidal waveforms. Other wave shapes require a
different calibration factor to relate RMS and average value. This type of circuit usually has a
fairly limited frequency range. Since practical rectifiers have a non-zero voltage drop, their
accuracy and sensitivity are poor at low AC voltage values.

Digital multimeters incorporate amplifiers, which use the same principles as analog multimeters
for resistance readings. For resistance measurements, a small constant current is usually passed
through the device being tested, and the digital multimeter reads the resultant voltage drop; this
eliminates the scale compression found in analog meters, but requires a source of precise current.
An auto-ranging digital multimeter can automatically adjust the scaling network, so the
measurement circuits use the full precision of the A/D converter. In all types of multimeters, the
quality of the switching elements is critical to stable and accurate measurements. The best DMMs
use gold-plated contacts in their switches; less expensive meters use nickel plating or none at all,
relying on printed circuit board solder traces for the contacts. Accuracy and stability (e.g.,
temperature variation, or aging, or voltage/current history) of a meter’s internal resistors (and other
components) is a limiting factor in the long-term accuracy and precision of the instrument. For
these reasons, the multimeter is one of the most versatile measuring tools used by electrical and
electronics engineers around the world!
5
Parts of a Multimeter

A multimeter is has three parts:

 Display
 Selection Knob
 Ports

The display usually has four digits and the ability to display a negative sign. A few multimeters
have illuminated displays for better viewing in low light situations.
The selection knob allows the user to set the multimeter to read different things such as
milliamps (mA) of current, voltage (V) and resistance (Ω).

Two probes are plugged into two of the ports on the front of the unit. COM stands for common
and is almost always connected to Ground or ‘-’ of a circuit. The COM probe is conventionally
black but there is no difference between the red probe and black probe other than color. 10A is
the special port used when measuring large currents (greater than 200mA). mAVΩ is the port
that the red probe is conventionally plugged in to. This port allows the measurement of current
(up to 200mA), voltage (V), and resistance (Ω). The probes have a banana type connector on the
end that plugs into the multimeter. Any probe with a banana plug will work with this meter. This
allows for different types of probes to be used.

Using a Multimeter to test the voltage on a LiPo Battery.

Probe Types

There are many different types of probes available for multimeters. Here are a few of our
favorites:

 Banana to Alligator Clips : These are great cables for connecting to large wires or pins on a
breadboard. Good for performing longer term tests where you don’t have to have to hold the
probes in place while you manipulate a circuit.
 Banana to IC Hook : IC hooks work well on smaller ICs and legs of ICs.
 Banana to Tweezers : Tweezers are handy if you are needing to test SMD components.
 Banana to Test Probes : If you ever break a probe, they are cheap to replace!

11

Multimeter Probes - Tweezers

TOL-11060

$4.95

Measuring Voltage

To start, let's measure voltage on a AA battery: Plug the black probe into COM and the red
probe into mAVΩ. Set the multimeter to "2V" in the DC (direct current) range. Almost all
portable electronics use direct current), not alternating current. Connect the black probe to the
battery's ground or '-' and the red probe to power or '+'. Squeeze the probes with a little pressure
against the positive and negative terminals of the AA battery. If you've got a fresh battery, you
should see around 1.5V on the display (this battery is brand new, so its voltage is slightly higher
than 1.5V).
If you're measuring DC voltage (such as a battery or a sensor hooked up to an Arduino) you want
to set the knob where the V has a straight line. AC voltage (like what comes out of the wall) can
be dangerous, so we rarely need to use the AC voltage setting (the V with a wavy line next to it).
If you're messing with AC, we recommend you get a non-contact tester rather than use a digital
multimeter.
Use the V with a straight line to measure DC Voltage

Use the V with a wavy line to measure AC Voltage

What happens if you switch the red and black probes? The reading on the multimeter is simply
negative. Nothing bad happens! The multimeter measures voltage in relation to the common
probe. How much voltage is there on the ‘+’ of the battery compared to common or the negative
pin? 1.5V. If we switch the probes, we define ‘+’ as the common or zero point. How much
voltage is there on the ‘-’ of the battery compared to our new zero? -1.5V!
Now let's construct a simple circuit to demonstrate how to measure voltage in a real world
scenario. The circuit is simply a 1kΩ and a Blue super bright LED powered with a SparkFun
Breadboard Power Supply Stick. To begin, let's make sure the circuit you are working on is
powered up correctly. If your project should be at 5V but is less than 4.5V or greater than 5.5V,
this would quickly give you an indication that something is wrong and you may need to check
your power connections or the wiring of your circuit.
Measuring the voltage coming off of a Power Supply Stick.

Set the knob to "20V" in the DC range (the DC Voltage range has a V with a straight line next to
it). Multimeters are generally not autoranging. You have to set the multimeter to a range that it
can measure. For example, 2V measures voltages up to 2 volts, and 20V measures voltages up
to 20 volts. So if you've measuring a 12V battery, use the 20V setting. 5V system? Use the 20V
setting. If you set it incorrectly, you will probably see the meter screen change and then read '1'.
With some force (imagine poking a fork into a piece of cooked meat), push the probes onto two
exposed pieces of metal. One probe should contact a GND connection. One probe to the VCC or
5V connection.

We can test different parts of the circuit as well. This practice is called nodal analysis, and it is a
basic building block in circuit analysis. By measuring the voltage across the circuit we can see
how much voltage each component requires. Let's measure the whole circuit first. Measuring
from where the voltage is going in to the resistor and then where ground is on the LED, we
should see the full voltage of the circuit, expected to be around 5V.
We can then see how much voltage the LED is using. This is what is referred to as the voltage
drop across the LED. If that doesn't make sense now, fear not. It will as you explore the world of
electronics more. The important thing to take away is that different parts of a circuit can be
measured to analyze the circuit as a whole.
This LED is using 2.66V of the available 5V supply to illuminate. This is lower than the forward voltage
stated in the datasheet on account of the circuit only having small amount of current running though it,
but more on that in a bit.

Overload

What happens if you select a voltage setting that is too low for the voltage you're trying to
measure? Nothing bad. The meter will simply display a 1. This is the meter trying to tell you that
it is overloaded or out-of-range. Whatever you're trying to read is too much for that particular
setting. Try changing the multimeter knob to a the next highest setting.
Reading the 5V across this circuit is too much for the 2V setting on the multimeter.
Selection Knob

Why does the meter knob read 20V and not 10V? If you're looking to measure a voltage less
than 20V, you turn to the 20V setting. This will allow you to read from 2.00 to 19.99.

The first digit on many multimeters is only able to display a '1' so the ranges are limited to 19.99
instead of 99.99. Hence the 20V max range instead of 99V max range.

Warning! In general, stick to DC circuits (the settings on the multimeter with straight lines, not curvy
lines). Most multimeters can measure AC (alternating current) systems, but AC circuits can be
dangerous. A wall outlet with AC or 'main voltage' is the stuff that can zap you pretty good. VERY
carefully respect AC. If you need to check to see if an outlet is 'on' then use a AC tester. Really the only
times we've needed to measure AC are when we've got an outlet that is acting funny (is it really at
110V?), or if we're trying to control a heater (such as a hot plate). Go slow and double check everything
before you test an AC circuit.

Measuring Resistance

Normal resistors have color codes on them. If you don't know what they mean, that's ok! There
are plenty of online calculators that are easy to use. However, if you ever find yourself without
internet access, a multimeter is very handy at measuring resistance.

Pick out a random resistor and set the multimeter to the 20kΩ setting. Then hold the probes
against the resistor legs with the same amount of pressure you when pressing a key on a
keyboard.
The meter will read one of three things, 0.00, 1, or the actual resistor value.

 In this case, the meter reads 0.97, meaning this resistor has a value of 970Ω, or about
1kΩ (remember you are in the 20kΩ or 20,000 Ohm mode so you need to move the
decimal three places to the right or 970 Ohms).
 If the multimeter reads 1 or displays OL, it's overloaded. You will need to try a higher
mode such as 200kΩ mode or 2MΩ (megaohm) mode. There is no harm if this happen, it
simply means the range knob needs to be adjusted.
 If the multimeter reads 0.00 or nearly zero, then you need to lower the mode to 2kΩ or
200Ω.

Remember that many resistors have a 5% tolerance. This means that the color codes may
indicate 10,000 Ohms (10kΩ), but because of discrepancies in the manufacturing process a 10kΩ
resistor could be as low as 9.5kΩ or as high as 10.5kΩ. Don't worry, it'll work just fine as a pull-
up or general resistor.

Let's drop the meter down to the next lowest setting, 2KΩ. What happens?

Not a whole lot changed. Because this resistor (a 1KΩ) is less than 2KΩ, it still shows up on the
display. However, you'll notice that there is one more digit after the decimal point giving us a
slightly higher resolution in our reading. What about the next lowest setting?
Now, since 1kΩ is greater than 200Ω, we've maxed out the meter, and it is telling you that it is
overloaded and that you need to try a higher value setting.

As a rule of thumb, it's rare to see a resistor less than 1 Ohm. Remember that measuring
resistance is not perfect. Temperature can affect the reading a lot. Also, measuring resistance of a
device while it is physically installed in a circuit can be very tricky. The surrounding components
on a circuit board can greatly affect the reading.
Measuring Current

Reading current is one of the trickiest and most insightful readings in the world of embedded
electronics. It's tricky because you have to measure current in series. Where voltage is measure
by poking at VCC and GND (in parallel), to measure current you have to physically interrupt the
flow of current and put the meter in-line. To demonstrate this, we'll use the same circuit we used
in the measuring voltage section.

The first thing we'll need is an extra piece of wire. As mentioned, we'll need to physically
interrupt the circuit to measure the current. Said another way, pull out the VCC wire going to the
resistor, add a wire where that wire was connected, and then probe from the power pin on the
power supply to the resistor. This effectively "breaks" power to the circuit. We then insert the
multimeter in-line so that it can measure the current as it "flows" through to the multimeter into
the bread board.

For these pictures, we cheated and used alligator clips. When measuring current, it's often good
to watch what your system does over time, for a few seconds or minutes. While you might want
to stand there and hold the probes to the system, sometimes it's easier to free up your hands.
These alligator clip probes can come in handy. Note that almost all multimeters have the same
sized jacks (they're called "banana plugs") so if you're in a pinch, you can use your friend's
probes.
With the multimeter connected, we can now set the dial to the proper setting and measure some
current. Measuring current works the same as voltage and resistance -- you have to get the
correct range. Set the multimeter to 200mA, and work from there. The current consumption for
many breadboard projects is usually under 200mA. Make sure the red probe is plugged into the
200mA fused port. On our favorite multimeter, the 200mA hole is the same port/hole as voltage
and resistance reading (the port is labeled mAVΩ). This means you can keep the red probe in the
same port to measure current, voltage, or resistance. However, if you suspect that your circuit
will be using close to or more than 200mA, switch your probe to the 10A side, just to be safe.
Overloading the current can result in a blown fuse rather than just an overload display. More on
that in a bit.
This circuit was only pulling 1.8mA at the time of measurement, not a lot of current. The average reading
was closer to 2.1mA.

Realize that the multimeter is acting as a piece of wire -- you've now completed the circuit, and
the circuit will power on. This is important because as time goes on the LED, microcontroller,
sensor, or whatever device being measured may change its power consumption (such as turning
on an LED can resulting in a 20mA increase for a second, then decrease for a second when it
turns off). On the multimeter display you should see the instantaneous current reading. All
multimeters take readings over time and then give you the average, so expect the reading to
fluctuate. In general, cheaper meters will average more harshly and respond more slowly, so take
each reading with a grain of salt. In your head, take an average range such as 7 to 8mA under
normal 5V conditions (not 7.48mA).
Similar to the other measurements, when measuring current, the color of the probes does not
matter. What happens if we switch probes? Nothing bad happens! It simply causes the current
reading to become negative:

Current is still flowing through the system, you've just changed your perspective and now the
meter reads negative.

Remember! When you're done using the meter, always return the meter to read voltage (return the
probes to the voltage port, set the meter to read the DC voltage range if necessary). It's common to grab
a meter and begin to quickly measure the voltage between two pins. If you have left your meter in
'current' mode, you won't see the voltage on the display. Instead you'll see '0.000' indicating that there
is no current between VCC and GND. Within that split second you will have connected VCC to GND
through your meter and the 200mA fuse will blow = not good. So before you put the meter down for the
night, remember to leave your meter in a friendly state.

Measuring current can be tricky the first couple of times. Don't worry if you blow the fuse -
we've done it dozens of times! We'll show you how to replace the fuse in a later section.

Continuity

Continuity testing is the act of testing the resistance between two points. If there is very low
resistance (less than a few Ωs), the two points are connected electrically, and a tone is emitted. If
there is more than a few Ωs of resistance, than the circuit is open, and no tone is emitted. This
test helps insure that connections are made correctly between two points. This test also helps us
detect if two points are connected that should not be.

Continuity is quite possibly the single most important function for embedded hardware gurus.
This feature allows us to test for conductivity of materials and to trace where electrical
connections have been made or not made.

Set the multimeter to 'Continuity' mode. It may vary among DMMs, but look for a diode symbol
with propagation waves around it (like sound coming from a speaker).
Multimeter is set to continuity mode.

Now touch the probes together. The multimeter should emit a tone (Note: Not all multimeters
have a continuity setting, but most should). This shows that a very small amount of current is
allowed to flow without resistance (or at least a very very small resistance) between probes.

Warning! In general, turn OFF the system before checking for continuity.

On a breadboard that is not powered, use the probes to poke at two separate ground pins. You
should hear a tone indicating that they are connected. Poke the probes from the VCC pin on a
microcontroller to VCC on your power supply. It should emit a tone indicating that power is free
to flow from the VCC pin to the micro. If it does not emit a tone, then you can begin to follow
the route that copper trace takes and tell if there are breaks in the line, wire, breadboard, or PCB.
Continuity is a great way to test if two SMD pins are touching. If your eyes can't see it, the
multimeter is usually a great second testing resource.

When a system is not working, continuity is one more thing to help troubleshoot the system.
Here are the steps to take:

1. If the system is on, carefully check VCC and GND with the voltage setting to make sure the
voltage is the correct level. If the 5V system is running at 4.2V check your regulator carefully, it
could be very hot indicating the system is pulling too much current.
2. Power the system down and check continuity between VCC and GND. If there is continuity (if
you hear a beep), then you've got a short somewhere.
3. Power the system down. With continuity, check that VCC and GND are correctly wired to the
pins on the microcontroller and other devices. The system may be powering up, but the
individual ICs may be wired wrong.
4. Assuming you can get the microcontroller running, set the multimeter aside, and move on to
serial debugging or use a logic analyzer to inspect the digital signals.

Continuity and large capacitors: During normal troubleshooting. you will be probing for
continuity between ground and the VCC rail. This is a good sanity check before powering up a
prototype to make sure there is not a short on the power system. But don't be surprised if you
hear a short 'beep!' when probing. This is because there is often significant amounts of
capacitance on the power system. The multimeter is looking for very low resistance to see if two
points are connected. Capacitors will act like a short for a split second until they fill up with
energy, and then act like an open connection. Therefore, you will hear a short beep and then
nothing. That's ok, it's just the caps charging up.

Changing the Fuse

One of the most common mistakes with a new multimeter is to measure current on a bread board
by probing from VCC to GND (bad!). This will immediately short power to ground through the
multimeter causing the bread board power supply to brown out. As the current rushes through the
multimeter, the internal fuse will heat up and then burn out as 200mA flows through it. It will
happen in a split second and without any real audible or physical indication that something is
wrong.

Wow, that was neat. Now what? Well first, remember that measuring current is done in series
(interrupt the VCC line to the breadboard or microcontroller to measure current). If you try to
measure the current with a blown fuse, you'll probably notice that the meter reads '0.00' and that
the system doesn't turn on like it should when you attach the multimeter. This is because the
internal fuse is broken and acts as a broken wire or open. Don't worry, this happens all the time,
and it costs about $1 to fix.

To change the fuse, find your handy dandy mini screw driver, and start taking out screws. The
SparkFun DMM is pretty easy to pull apart. Start by removing the battery plate and the battery.
Next, remove the two screws hiding behind the battery plate.
Lift the face of the multimeter slightly.
Now notice the hooks on the bottom edge of the face. You will need to slide the face sideways
with a little force to disengage these hooks.
Once the face is unhooked, it should come out easily. Now you can see inside the multimeter!
Gently lift up on the fuse, and it will pop out.
Make sure to replace the correct fuse with the correct type. In other words, replace the 200mA
fuse with a 200mA fuse.

Warning! DO NOT put a 10A fuse where a 200mA fuse should go. The placement of the fuses may not
match the placement of the probe ports. Read the metal cap on either end of the fuse to double check
which is which.

The components and PCB traces inside the multimeter are designed to take different amounts of
current. You will damage and possibly ruin your multimeter if you accidentally push 5A through
the 200mA port.

There are times where you need to measure high current devices like a motor or heating element.
Do you see the two places to put the red probe on the front of the multimeter? 10A on the left
and mAVΩ on the right? If you try to measure more than 200mA on the mAVΩ port you run the
risk of blowing the fuse. But if you use the 10A port to measure current, you run a much lower
risk of blowing the fuse. The trade-off is sensitivity. As we talked about above, by using the 10A
port and knob setting, you will only be able to read down to 0.01A or 10mA. Most of my
systems use more than 10mA so the 10A setting and port works well enough. If you're trying to
measure very low power (micro or nano amps) the 200mA port with the 2mA, 200uA, or 20uA
could be what you need.

Remember: If your system has the potential to use more than 100mA you should start with the
red probe plugged into the 10A port and 10A knob setting.

With sub $50 digital multimeters, the measurements you are likely to take are just trouble
shooting readings, not scientific experimental results. If you really need to see how the IC uses
current or voltage over time, use an Agilent or other high quality bench unit. These units have
higher precision and offer a wide range of fancy functions (some include Tetris!). Bunnie Huang,
hardware designer behind Chumby, uses high-precision current readings to trouble shoot boards
during the final testing procedures of a Chumby. By looking at the current consumption of
different boards that have failed (for example a given failed board uses 210mA over the normal),
he could identify what was wrong with the board (when the RAM fails, it generally uses 210mA
over normal). By pinpointing what may be potentially wrong, the rework and repair of boards is
made much easier.

What Makes a Good Multimeter?

Everyone has his or her preference, but in general multimeters that have continuity are preferred.
Every other feature is just icing on the cake.

There are fancy multimeters that are autoranging, meaning they automatically change their
internal range to attempt to find the correct voltage, resistance, or current of the thing you're
poking at. Auto-ranging can be very helpful if you know how to use it. Generally speaking,
autoranging multimeters are higher quality and generally have more features. So if someone
gives you a multimeter with auto-range, put it to use! Just know how to get it into manual mode.
A circuit's voltage or current can fluctuate quite quickly. With some of the systems, the current
or voltage is so sporadic that the auto-range can't keep up sensibly.

A back-lit LCD is fancy, but when was the last time you measured your circuit in the dark? We
generally steer clear of scary forests and situations that require us to test stuff in the middle of the
night, but some people may want or need a dark-friendly multimeter.

A good click on the range selector is actually a major plus in our book. A soft knob is usually
indicative of a shoddy meter.
Decent probes are a plus. Over time the leads will tend to break down at the flex point. We've
seen wires come completely out of probes - and it's always at the moment you need the probes to
work! If you do break a probe, they are reasonably cheap to replace.

Auto-off is a great feature that is rarely seen on cheaper multimeters. This is a feature that can
benefit beginners and advanced users alike, as it's easy to forget to turn the meter off at 2AM.
The SparkFun digital multimeter doesn't have this feature, but luckily the meter is very low-
power. We've left the multimeter for two days straight before the 9V battery began to get low.
That said, don't forget to turn your meter off!

You're now ready to use your digital multimeter to start measuring the world around you. Feel
free to start using it to answer many questions. I believe my LED is getting 20mA, is it really?
How much voltage does a lemon have? Is a glass of water conductive? Can I use aluminum foil
to replace these wires? A digital multimeter will answer these and many more questions about
electronics.