Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
1. INTRODUCTION
Novelty or exotic leather are call reflection to the leather come from reptile, fish,
bird skin that uncommon as raw material like farm animals: cows, horses,
buffaloes, goats, sheep, commonly used for industrial clothing such as shoes,
garments, bags, wallets etc. Novelty generally refers to something that is special,
strange, unique which generally comes from the skins of wild animals it is difficult
to obtain or commonly used as something NOVEL.
Among so much novelty or exotic skin there are some very popular and has been
exploited by a fairly high economic value such as ostrich skin, crocodile skin,
python snake, lizard skin, stingray, snapper, shark, skin of animals such as foxes
, otters, glacial dog, which is generally used as fur.
However, particular that most animal life as wild animals that living freely in their
habitats, and to ensure the sustainability and continuity and avoid extinction
species one above it needed for us to always obey the rules of the animal
exploitation in international control, as outlined in a convention for international
protection of rare animals known as CITES.
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SUTAINABILITY Of THE EXOTIC LEATHER BISNIS.
Business of Leather exotic of skin like alligator or snake is very interesting and
has a good market share, so the demand is often beyond the limits provide it,
why? Firstly have all exotic of Leather limited by quotas have included in the
protected animals. Secondly to maintain the sustainability and preservation of the
natural environment suffered no damage.
To keep that business running smoothly in accordance with the legal corridors
have ditetapka both nationally and internationally ... criminal offenders subject to
sanctions, so that all matters relating to exotic of Leather regulated by the
government in this respect of Indonesian forestry department.
Below are some steps to be followed if you want to plunging into the exotic of
Leather business.
1. Recognition and understanding of animals that will be though in
Indonesia.
Python Spc
•Python reticulatus and brutus are on appendix II, and all under Python spp since
1975
•Since listed 5 countries reported as the origin of Python reticulatus and phyton
brutus specimens as especially skin are Indonesia, Malaysia, Vietnam, Thailand
and Singapore.
•The most exporters : Malaysia (162,000 pcs) and Indonesia (157,500 pcs).
There are two kind of Python spp in Indonesia, Reticulated Python and Curtus
Python. Reticulated Python is diamond/sawah/sanca kembang and Curtus Python
or Short-tailed Pythons are Python brongersmai or short tail black python and the
second one Python breitensteini or blood python. (see image).
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Crocodiles Spc.
Note taxonomists:
In terms of the morphology and habitat, this type is similar to other types of
freshwater crocodiles in western Indonesia; namely Siamese crocodile (C.
siamensis), Mindoro crocodile (C. mindorensis), and Borneo crocodile (C.
raninus). C. mindorensis formerly regarded as a subspecies (subspecies) crocodile
Irian (as C. novaeguineae mindorensis), but is now regarded as a separate type.
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Considering the high pressure on the wild population, the Indonesian government
have included Crocodylus novaeguineae as animals that are protected by law,
which limits their use. Trade and leather products monitored by CITES, which
enter this type in Appendix II. While IUCN sees it as a low-risk (LR, lower risks)
aka safe enough, given the relatively high population with vast natural habitat.
Irian wild alligator population is estimated at between 50 thousand to 100
thousand head, around the the island of Papua.
Buaya muara
Also called bekatak crocodile ( C. porosus ) is a type of crocodile that mainly live
in rivers and streams in the sea near the mouth . Endemic area can be found in
the waters of Indonesia . The muzzle of this species have not wide enough and
wide scales on his neck . Medium body length including the tail can reach 12 feet
as it had been found in Sangatta , East Kalimantan .
The estuarine crocodile is known as the largest crocodile in the world , much
bigger than the Nile crocodile ( Crocodylus niloticus ) and the American Alligator (
Alligator mississipiensis ) . Its spread was also " the largest " in the world ;
estuarine crocodiles have overseas territories ranging from the waters of the Bay
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of Bengal ( Sri Lanka , Bangladesh , India ) to the waters of Polynesia ( Fiji
Islands and Vanuatu ) . While for their favorite habitat is Indonesian and
Australian waters . Porosus crocodiles like brackish water / salt , and therefore
also the nation's Australian saltwater crocodile named ( saltwater crocodiles ) .
Besides the largest and longest , the famous Saltwater Crocodile as well as the
kind of vicious crocodile in the world
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Survival of exotic skin industry that we have is very dependent on the way we
think about the future and how we are protecting the environment both animals
and plants and ensuring sustainability. Exploitation without considering the
valuable values will lead to moral hazard in the end, sooner or later will destroy
the system itself .... ! Partially generation of intelligent and understand the
economic values contained in, there is an obligation to preserve natural resources
so that one does not lead to extinction even should ensure and enhance
sustainable population and increasing an international belief that what we do in
accordance with the rules applicable nationally and internationally.
Ensuring Sustainability.
National Legislation to Implement CITES
Act No 5/1990 concerning Conservation on Biodiversity and Its Ecosystem
Government Regulation No 7/1999 concerning Preservation on Wild Flora
and Fauna
Government Regulation No 8/1999 concerning Utilization Management on
Wild Flora and Fauna
Government Regulation No 13/1994 concerning Hunting Management
Ministry of Forestry Decree No 447/2003 concerning Harvest and Trade
Management of Wild Flora and Fauna
Ministry of Forestry Regulation No. P.19/Menhut-II/2005 concerning Captive
Bred Operation on Wild Flora and Fauna
Ministry of Forestry Regulation No P.52/Menhut-II/2006 Wild Flora and
Fauna Exhibition
Ministry of Forestry Regulation No. P.53/Menhut-II/2006 concerning Ex-
situ Conservation (Zoo, Botanical Garden etc).
Ministry of Forestry Regulation No…./Menhut-II/2013 concerning Ex- situ
Conservation (Zoo, Botanical Garden etc).
Ministry of Trading No…./Mendag/2013 concerning trading of exotic product
from endengerouse spc.
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Ensuring Traceability (Harvest and Trade Management)
The circulation of plants and animals both commercially (trade, exchange, or
other forms of service provision in the utilization or economic profit) and non-
commercial (assessment, research and development, herbarium collections or
museums, maintenance for pleasure, personal innate, souvenirs and exchange
exchange, breeding) must be accompanied by document of transport Plants and
Animals of the Interior (SATS-DN).
SATS-DN issued by the Head of Central / BKSDA or Head of Region or Region
Section Head appointed by the Head of Central / BKSDA. Publishing SATS-DN can
be done after the provable existence:
1. Permit Dealers of Interior Plants and Wildlife.
2. Related to the legality of permits origin of specimens in the form of permits
take or catch or SATS-DN from other regions.
3. Reports on stock of plants and wildlife.
The circulation of plants and animals both commercially (trade, demonstrations,
roving performances through the export, import, re-export and introduction from
the sea that aims to obtain economic benefits to or from abroad) and non
commercial (study, research and development, herbaria, museums, maintenance
for pleasure, innate personal, souvenir or exchange to and from abroad must be
accompanied by document of Transport Plants and Animals abroad (SATS-LN).
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SATS-LN issued by the Director General PHKA after existence can be proven:
1. Licensed dealers Foreign Wild Flora and Fauna.
2. Related to the legality of permits origin such specimen collection permits and
catching wild plants and animals, and SATS-DN.
Below are some requirements that must be met to be able to conduct business
legally exotic leather.
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C.I.T.E.S.
1. Why is this document so essential when we export our exotic leather goods
to countries outside the European Union ?
3. Why do products requiring these documents for their export from the
European Union cost more?
Here we would like to help you understand the importance of this process and especially why, in some
If you prefer to skip the explanations of the terminology of the CITES certificate
and just read about why this documentation is so important in the despatch of
our products. Those who are interested in understanding the exact meaning of
the terminology connected with the CITES process will find below detailed but
simplified explanations of each term used regularly by the CITES department:
What does the word CITES mean? Is it a magic word that protects
endangered species of animals and plants or is it just yet another
bureacratic obstacle in our way?
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CITES - stands for Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of
wild fauna and flora.
Protected species covered by CITES are classified into three groups according to
the level of threat they face. Import and export of live specimens, of their parts
or of products derived from them is either banned (appendix I, with exceptions)
or else permitted only with special authorization.
In other words:
This appendix lists the most endangered animal and plant species of all those
listed and protected by the CITES Convention. These species are threatened with
extinction and Cites categorically prohibits international trade in them, except
when they are being imported for certain non-commercial reasons (article III) as
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in the case of scientific research. In such cases trade is permitted as long as it is
authorized by an explicit import permit and export or re-export permit.
This category includes the so-called “monitored species”, that is, species whose
trade is monitored and contained. Commercial trade in these species is
permitted, but is strictly regulated and every example must be issued
with its own Cites certificate in order for a sale to take place. These
certificates must show the details of the animal and of its import, the import
license and so on....
This appendix includes controlled species, where the species is protected within
its home state and that state has sought help to control trade in it and limit the
decline of the species. These states require the collaboration of other Cites
members to prevent unsustainable exploitation and illegal trade in these species.
International trade is permitted only on presentation of the relevant permit or
certificate.
Both python skin and crocodile skin are included in these appendices;
therefore trade in them is carried out subject to the strict rules and
procedures enforced by Cites.
Some species of reptiles and snakes are currently in danger of extinction due to
the destruction of their natural habitat and due to heavy international trade in
them, in many cases through the opportunistic and often illegal sale of their
skins. It is possible to contribute to the improvement of this situation by
adhering scrupulously to all the regulations concerning trade in protected species.
Leaving aside the terminology now, let's see what it involves for a business to
export the derivative, that is, in our particular case, an article made from python,
crocodile, or cocco Ligator skin, out of the European Union.
We will analyze the complex business and bureaucratic procedure that must be
followed scrupulously in order to consign orders successfully to our clients,
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without any risk or problems, respecting the trade regulations and endeavouring
wherever possible to reduce the amount of time that our client has to wait for his
order.
What documents are required by duties or liabilities before you can get
permission to import or export an article outside the European Union?
Before answering this question we would like to put you in the picture regarding
the documents that we must already have and the rules that we must follow
scrupulously from the moment we begin production of your exotic leather bag:
Python and crocodile skin, from its initial import into Italy from its country
of origin, must have the appropriate import certificate, which specifies the
country that the skin came from, the scientific name of the animal that the
skin came from, the license number relating to its import, the details of the
agency that imported it and so on. We would like to emphasize to our
clients, that the tanning and coloring of the skins takes place in
Italy from start to finish.
The tannery must make a written declaration, on the relevant document, of
the quantity of skins sold to the manufacturers, the numbers of licenses
under which these skins were imported, the countries of provenance of
these exotic skins and so on.....
Each skin used for the production of an article must be correctly entered in
the relevant register of the manufacturer.
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What procedures must be followed and conditions met to obtain a re-export
certificate once the product has been purchased by a client?
the application form for the certificate, clearly indicating the details of the
purchaser (name, surname, address), the details of the vendor, a detailed
description of the goods, the provenance of the skin, the import license, the
scientific name of the species, the common name, the appendix that this
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species is listed in, the source from which this species was obtained (if the
animal was raised in captivity or came from its natural habitat),
the declaration from the tannery enumerating the quantity of skins sold to
the manufacturer, the numbers of licenses with which these skins were
imported, the country of origin of the skins etc....
the import licenses relating to the skins used in the production of the
article;
Once the Cites certificate has been issued (this takes several days), all the
products, as well as the documents issued and the invoice must be presented to
the relevant supervisory authorities (in Italy this function is performed by the
administrative branch of the Forestry Commission) for checking. After careful
monitoring by the agent of the authorities in charge of this task, the original Cites
certificate will be issued, with the customs stamp and the DG2 form, which
authenticates and guarantees that the details entered on the documents
correspond with the products themselves.
This form will be required for the import of the products into the country where
the goods are being delivered.
The Cites certificate cannot be issued by the local authorities where the business
is based, but only in the departments of approved Cites authorities that are
specialized in drawing up these documents. In most cases these authorities are
located at a considerable distance from the town where the business is based.
What does the CITES document in this year?, and what kind of the endangered
species list in this document ?. (Document CITES 2009)
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1. PHYTON SNAKE.
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Samples Hobo Bag from diamond python
Jennifer Lopez is indeed one of those few actresses who always manage to look
gorgeous. Here she is again, spotted as she leaves her trailer after the first day of
filming her upcoming movie, entitled “The Back Up Plan” in New York City. J.Lo
seems to love anything that is wild and exotic, and indeed, it fits her really sexy
and fierce look. With that, it is not anymore surprising to see her with an exotic
bag such as this Python reticulatus Hobo from Adriana Castro. It comes in natural
matte, and its neutral shading definitely goes well with her white embellished top.
It is indeed very exotic as it seems to resemble much to a real python.This bag
measures about 13 x 17 x 5 inches, and the hidden magnetic snap closure would
reveal suede lining with inside zip and cell phone pockets. The shoulder strap is of
eight inches drop, and it should already fit over the shoulders, just as what you
can see on J.Lo. If you‟re not too sure with the natural shade, check out Adriana
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Castro‟s online store to see other bolder hues.
This Adriana Castro Python Meissa Hobo is
available for $2,900, and it is definitely not
surprising since most of her bags retail
expensively.
But anyway, if this has been brought up at the start of the fall and winter, this
could have been a really trendy and fabulous bag. The blue and grey combination
in the reticulated python material is very clean, giving sophistication to any looks.
The exoticness of the python skin is even more emphasized with its color. It also
has some yeliow- gold tone hardware which brings out more of the bag‟s
classiness. It is even designed with a padlock and a hanging key on the front,
while the branding remains subtle in the signature „Y‟ inset.
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The bag is in a double zip closure which would
reveal a spacious interior. Carry it through its flat
top handles with ring attachments and you are sure
to bring a wild yet posh look. Now if you think you
could still use it even for the next seasons, you can
buy this over at Bergdorf Goodman for a hefty price
of $3,995.
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Gambar : Korr Bag Design.
CHLOE.
This shoulder bag by Chloe is different from their other creations. Chloe usually
use plain or printed leather to design their bags. This time they‟re turning the
wheel as they continue on exploring design possibilities. This exploration enabled
Chloe to create a Python Shoulder bag as shown above. This shoulder bag is
created with authentic python skin which gives it the natural texture and design
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that appeals to the eyes. Python skin is becoming a trend so you can never go
wrong in carrying this luxury. This Chloe Gray Python Shoulder bag is accented
with a silver tone hardware on top which is also a clasp fastening. This also
features two open pockets that sit on front of the bag. It also has a chain handle
with light brown leather panels on the handle which accents the bag. This Python
shoulder bag measures 14 inch wide, 14 inch high and 7 inch deep just enough to
carry your essentials from day to night. This Python Shoulder Bag from Chloe is
tagged at about $3,632.00. This is a must have for your everyday stylish look
especially in the coming winter
Jimmy Choo
You're guaranteed to turn heads toting this beautiful Jimmy Choo Ayse handbag.
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I. Indonesian Python Snake.
1. Phython reticulatus (Local Name:Sanca Kembang/Sawah)
Image : Python Reticulatus atau Diamond Python.
2. Python Molurus-molurus.
In addition to other types reticulatus yng lot or in Indonesian called bodo
python. The shape is shorter but wider than the
python reticulatus. But not a few who realize that
pythons are guy commonly referred to as Asiatic
Rock Python is one of the rare animals are reserved
in Indonesia. Bodo python (Python molurus) are
protected by Regulation No. 7 of 1999
Image : Python molurus (Burmese Python).
the advantage of the tanning industry. Blood python found in Indonesia and
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Southeast Asia. In the wild are found in irrigated rice fields, swamps and the
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surrounding forest of oilpalm. The adult Python is a medium sized and can growing
up to a length between 1.5-2.5 m and large or obese. The tail is relatively short
rounded and nearly equal, so many people give name as short tail phyton. The skin
color of white with patches of gray-brown or brick red to blood red color, so often
referred to Blood python.
II. Small Snake.
A small snake in Indonesia which can be used as raw material for leather (beside
python skin) and does not get listed in CITES Appendix l among others are:
1. Water snake (Cerberus rhynchops) in English known as the dog-faced water
snake, widely available in the waterside area or
region of brackish water mangrove. The length
of the skin can be up to 1.5 m but the market is
generally between 90 cm -120 m. Another type
of water snake Enhydris bocourti (Bocourt's
Water Snake), with sharper color and clear
between the back and the belly. Gambar atas:
ular air (Cerberus rhynchops) dan Enhydris
bocourti .
2. Water snake (Homalopsis buccata) snake farms in local language, sacking striped
snakes, live in fresh water, rivers, fishponds, in English called Puff-faced Water
Snake, his environment is similar to other water snakes. Her skin tattoo has a
different color to the black and white dog face bocourt snake or water snake,
having an average length of over 120 cm in length dry conditions lasting can
reaches 1.75 m and a width of
abdomen at 17, -20 cm, because
generally too strong attraction in
toggle. Image: Water Snake
(Homalopsis buccata).
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3. Toto water snake or the English language
called the Rainbow Water Snake (Enhydris
Enhydris). Snake toto is a snake with scales
that are thicker and harder when compared
with other water snake skin. ULR adults no
longer than 1 meter so generally toto snake
skin trades in size 80-90 cm. Her skin is
violently causing its own advantages because
when in glazing will be very shiny surface. Image: Water Snake (Enhydris
Enhydris).
4. Family: Xenpoeltidae, Genus: Xenpoeltis
called rainbow snake (Sunbeam Snakes).
Body length for males achieve above 92 cm,
for females over 114 cm. Her skin resembles
snake scales toto its only like a rainbow glow
when exposed to light even though the
process will be lost because the scales will be discarded. Image: Rainbow snake/
Ular pelangi (Xenpoeltis).
5. Acrochordus javanicus (Javan File Snake), or known as a sack snakes (karong
snack), snake drum. Long snakes males above
190 cm sacks and sacks female snake above 290
cm. In trade snakeskin bags are marketed in the
form of dry curing with a length between 1.5 m -
1.9 m. Snake skin bag with snake usually
different, because the whole skin feels rough
because the scales have nodule like sand
covering all the skin body. Widely used as gloves,
bags and handicrafts such as leather drums.
Image: Acrochordus javanicus.
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2. Instructional Objectives.
1. Students can identify the classification and quality of raw materials dried
python skin curing (quality, width, and length) were used.
2. Students can explain and clarify the chemicals and materials used in the
product patent python leather tanning from BHO to the finishing process.
3. Students can adjust the process conditions, pH, temperature, velocity,
rotation drum corresponding to each stage of the process.
4. Formulating the proper number of main and auxiliary chemicals in the
tanning process formula python dried curing.
3. Subject Matter
3.1. Raw Materials: Classification and Grading Leather Python.
In general, snake skin is always preserved by dry curing method using sun
light so remind approximately 15-16% moisture content. What if stored in a
long time is usually included in boxes paper and arded ingredientes that as
insecticide, commonly used camphor (nafthalena), because the shipping or
storage can be damaged by insect feeding, but that with camphor (good)
smell less tasty, tangy and fishy can be reduced. But today there are some
buyers who ask for snake skin by way with preserved skin salty method,
although not common, but in some areas already do it.
The size of the skin is a lot of variation, classification based on the length of
the skin, especially for a small snake. Small snake skin like: water snakes,
snake Weling, snakes sapi lanang, etc.. are below 1.5 m sold in sheet form
(per pieces), based on the length of the skin with the classification as
follows: length <80 cm; 81 cm-100 cm 101 cm - 120 cm up to 120 cm.
Classification is somewhat different with python skin. Besides the length of
skin, python also measured the width of the belly, in general, is in want of
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3,5m-4.5m 20-25 30-40 15-20 Thickness is
relative similarly
For large skins like python skin, size classification based on the width and
length of the abdominal skin. But today it is developing ways to measure not
only crossly stomach but also the width of the neck and tail tip. This is to
avoid getting bad-temperedly fascinating sellers skin, actually toggling
strong suit belly to make more width at the time of preservation so that the
form of dry skin is "membotol" such as bottles and morbidly fitting that the
size doesn‟t match the truth. Python skins are sold in meters.
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3.2. Grading Qualities.
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stored too long in the preservation
usually yellowish (left image), opaque,
less good for processing as it will be
rengas and low tear resistance. In
addition, during the process will be
easier once the pigment is lost,
especially if in the process of bleaching,
whereas python skin beauty lies in the
marking or the pigments of flowers, although at certain times appear the
type of fashion that full bleached or plain without pigment. Image upper:
Yellowing color of skin because to long for charge.
No Quality Note
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In the preservation of raw commodities snake dried skin, especially python,
besides the price is determined by the quality, length and width of the skin,
is also determined by the trend of
fashion leather parts what it is cutting
backs sides (back bone cutting) or
belly cutting. This day every buyer
looking for belly cutting and at a
certain moment the price is very
expensive leather reaching $ 20-25 /
m raw skin, with a minimum length of
3.5 m. Image : A=Back bone cutting B:Belly
Cutting
2. Make it a report with pictures of each sheet of skin that you observe and
do the analysis and discussion.
3. Before the reports submitted were not allowed to attend the next
practice..
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Practicum I
Purpose: Sorting and grading
Skin type: Dry Skin python curing
Total: ...............
Group Number: .......
Name: ...................
Image
1
defect
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3.2 Processing Technology.
- The first difference is related to the elongated shape form of python skin,
so a bit difficult if done in a drum like a goat skin, sheep, cattle. Generally
use the paddle when using drum especially we have to sew the skin before
tanning process and should be folded into a piece and meat part is to be
placed on the outside. If not in sewing the skin will fold twist and can make
damaging the whole skin in the drum. Another method there are also insert
the skin into the basket without stitches which is important not wrapped and
twisted to one another.
- Use the amount of water process far more than the cattle leather tanning,
3-4 time compare to cattle process. Here python skin have to move freely,
floating or fluctuating, so the amount of water used can reach 500% of the
calculated weight of the skin.
- Longer soaking time !! 2-3 day because the skin is generally preserved in a
dry conditions as to achieve the perfect timing of wetness of dried skin, also
the pH of the solution is set between 10.5 to 11. Every day the water should
be changed and made new immersion process, the addition of more
chemicals and enhanced antibacterial concentration.
good.
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- Tanning processing generally use chrome tanning agent because producing
the nature character of the skin and easily directed into a specific product,
also has better heat resistance and can withstand the heat of boiled water
and in bleaching process the skin is not causing damaged by oxidation
bleaching events produce heat.
- Another method especially for natural white color / natural, the tanning
using a combination of aluminum or aldehyde tanning agent with mainly
white syntan replacement. Tanning with aluminum using alum as a tanning
agent, or known as alum tannage, generally in combination with egg yolk,
calcium carbonate, and other materials.
- In the latest development to bright pastel colors that can use a tanning
agent of phosphonium or oxazolidina, this agent is a metal free materials
and free aldehyde so right when used for eco-friendly leather
- For skin with a shiny finish / glossy especially reptiles including the python
main binders used protein or polyamide are fixed with aldehydes at the time
of the last layer. Finish using a glazing machine tools. Utuk matte finished
leather, such as garment nappa, softy bag its finishing method using acrylic
binder, PU, wax with a top coating using nitrocellulose.
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- Retanning for this type of glazing should be
finished using a lot of vegetable, especially
syntan replacement syntan that have character
or compacted fill and provide low flksibilitas. The
use of materials retanning agent that provides
high flexibility will cause trouble at the time
glazing.
- As for the matte finished or nappa generally retanning using acrylic resin,
aldehyde, chrome, and oil (fatliquore) which gives high elongation and
flexibility. Oil is used in addition to having a high penetration sulphited such
as oil, oil sulfoclorinated, either synthetic or natural esters, the amount that
is used quite a lot between 10-15% depending on the oil and the
combination fell or touch to be achieved.
a. BHO process:
- Wetting agent, Na (OH), bactericide, Ca (OH) 2, NH4Cl or (NH4) 2SO4,
bating agent, KMnO4, (COOH) 2, NaHSO3, H2SO4, NaCl, Antimould,
HCOOH.
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b. Degreasing process and Tanning:
- Material-emulsifying degreasing fats, aliphatic carbon; Ethylene oxide;
NaC1; Cr (OH) x H2O SO2 (basisitas 33%); HCOONa; Cationic / sulphited
oil; NaHCO3; Na2CO3. / MgO.
c. Post-Tanning Process:
- HCOOH; Ethylene oxide; Cr (OH) SO4xH2O; Glutaraldehyde; Sodium
Organic / naftalene; NaCOOH; NaHCO3; Acrylic resin; Auxiliaries-syntan
/replacement syntan; Sulphated ester (synthetic/natural oil); Surface
oil/natural oil (NFO); Sulphated-oil; Alkyl-sulphated; ammonium hydroxide
NH4(OH); Acid/metal complex dyestuff; Resin cationic; Benzothiazole.
d. Finishing process:
- Non-ionic Ethoxilated; NH4 OH; Acrylic resin dispersion (soft and hard);
Dyes stuff color dispersion; Ethyl glycol; binder protein / polyamide water
base; Hand modifier, wax.
- Auxiliary equipment: universal pH; Indicator BCG; cutting; Small Drum
process (RPM =15); Staking (engine / manual); Toggle; spray gun units;
Roll ironing; gauge-meter.
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Glossy Nappa Python Natural
Process for leather like hobo bag that need highly soft and silky handle
touching, light, like natural temper. For that reason, in processing step of
tanning be prepared like garment leather.
Soaking
R/
Water = 500%
Bactericide (preventol) = 0,001%
Tepol = 1,20%
pH Regulator (NaOH) = 0,2%. pH =11-12
Percentage based on dry weight. Soak up all the skin perfectly submerged
for 18 hours-20 hours or over night. Control wet weight (2-2.5 x dry weight)
and cross section.
Liming R/
Water = 500%
Glucose/gula pasir = 0,5%
Na2S = 4,0 % (solved with hot water 20 x)
Ca(OH)2 = 3,5% + Na(OH) = 0,5%.
Percentage based on wet weight. Dissolve Na2S and NaHS with warm water
until dissolved completely after cooling, input drum / bucket that had been
filled with water and leather swivel 20 minutes and the input of Ca (OH) 2
and Na (OH), stirring every 10 to 60 minutes are intermittent. Repeat 6
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Fleshing R/
Remove all meat and fat tissue attached cleanly by fleshing knife on the
beam. Weighing = ... kg
Deliming R/
Water = 500%
(NH4)2SO4 = 2% (solved with water 10x) 20‟
HCOOH = 0,5% (diluted with water 10x) 2x, a 20‟, pH = 8.
+
Bating agent = 1,5%
Bating
Water = 500%.
(NH4)2SO4 = 2% (solved with water 10x), 20‟
Bating Agent = 2 %. 45‟. Add NaHSO3 =2%, soaked over night.
Pickling
Water = 300%.
NaCl = 20%. ( 6oBe).
HCOOH = 1,5%.( diluted with water 10x), 3x a 20‟
H2SO4 = 0,5%.(diluted with water 10x ), 3x a 20‟, run 4 hr, over night.
pH = 2,8.
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Tanning R/
Water = 200 %
NaCl = 15 % 10‟ running.
Sulphited Oil/Cationic Oil = 0,75 % (Emulsified with hot-water 10x ) 5‟
running.
Chromosal = 12 % put together with MgO in the same time running 8 hr.
MgO = 0,5 % . Control pH by NaHCO3
Boilling test cookproof.
Aging
Horse up wet-blue over night.
Shaving 1 mm, if possible.
Buffing no 600 1x, repeat by sand paper no 800.
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Washing.
Water = 250 %
Surfaktan = 1 % Drumming = 30 „, drain and wash
H2O2 = 2 %
Retanning I R/
Water = 250 %.
Cromosal B = 5%
Glutaraldehyde = 2 % Run together Chrome & Aldehyde, 90‟, drain
Neutralizing R/.
Water= 250 %
NaHSO3 = 1,2 % (solved with water 10x ) running 15‟
NaHCO3 = 0,5 % (solved with water 10 x) insert 2x a‟ 20‟, pH 5,5.
Na2CO3 = 0,5% if the pH of solution is under 5,5.
Drain, washing by running water 10 „.
Retanning II R/
Water = 200 %
Resin Acrylic (Rockytan RR7) = 4 % run 30‟
Nafthalene Syntan (Rockytan RP2) = 4 %
White Syntan (Basyntan DX) = 3,5 %
Quebracho/Tara = 4,5 % Insert together inside the drum & runnin 90‟
Drain, washing by running water.
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Dyeing & Fatliquoring R/.
Water ( 80 oC ) = 200%.
Sulphited Oil = 8 %
Natural Lecithin (blended) Fat = 3 % Mix, emulsified, running 45‟.
Paramit ML = 1,5%
+
Dyes = 1,5 %
+ HCOOH = 2,5 % (diluted with water 10x). 3x, a 20‟. Dyeing solution
is clear and adding 0,1% anti mould run 10 mnt, wash by running water.
Horse Up
Drying
Stacking
Toggling
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Clearing
R/
Water = 993 cc
Amonia = 5 gr
Surfactant anionic = 2gr
Mix homogenous and swept this liquid into python grain. Hang drying
Base Coating
R/
Water = 650 cc.
LD color = 20 gr
BI = 50 gr.
Luron Binder U = 50 gr it can be substitute by other medium casein.
Wax Ground = 20 gr.
Mix this liquid homogenous and swept into python grain. Hang drying,
repeat 1X by spray, drying, glazing.
Medium/Color Coat
R/
Water = 690 gr
Medium Protein Binder = 150 gr
Wax Top = 10 gr.Put the other color if the target of the process is for multi
color
Homogenous mix and spray this liquid into python grain. Hang drying, do it
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Top Coat
RWater =
Casein = 200 gr
Top wax = 20 gr.
Aldehyde =10 gr.
Mix homogenous and swept this liquid into python grain. Hang drying,
repeat by spray 1X, drying. Ironing II.
Note: If finishing using acrylic binder, there are two types of ways of
finishing, the first is a glossy medium type and the second one is naturally
dull. For a natural dull usually added binder containing silica. Given the type
of finishing is always changing every year and depending on the current
mode, you should do a trial at any time.
TARGET PRACTICE.
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2. CROCODILE LEATHER
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INDONESIA CROCODILLE
Distrubition of crocodiles
- In the Indonesia crocodile known as buaya. Crocodile is derived from the
Greek people when they saw a crocodile in the Nile, krokodilos ; word
formation Kroko as rooted in the word, which means “gravel” and deilos
which means “worm” or “people” . They call it “worm stone” because
watching behaviors of crocodiles basking on the banks of the river rocky.
Most crocodiles belong to the genus Crocodylus . Two other genera surviving
members of the tribe are Osteolaemus Crocodylia and Tomistoma , each of
which is monotipik . Many of Crocodylidae tribes are now extinct and living a
few are scattered in several areas including in Indonesia such as Papua ,
Sulawesi , Java , slightly in Kalimantan .
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Genus/Clan of Crocodylus:
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- Crocodylus acutus or popular as American alligator
- Crocodylus intermedius , Orinoco crocodile
- Crocodylus johnsoni , fresh - water crocodiles Australia
- Crocodylus mindorensis , Philippine crocodile
- Crocodylus moreletii or crocodile Mexico
- Crocodylus niloticus, popular as Nile crocodile or alligator Africa and in
Madagascar subspecies sometimes called black crocodile.
- Crocodylus novaeguineae , crocodile Irian
- Crocodylus palustris , the Indian crocodile or alligator swamp
- Crocodylus porosus , the saltwater crocodile
- Crocodylus rhombifer , Cuban crocodile
- Crocodylus siamensis , Siamese crocodile or alligator water - fresh Asian
Crocodiles in Indonesia.
- As far as is known there are about seven species ( or subspecies )
crocodile found in Indonesia, namely : Mindoro crocodile or the Philippine
crocodile ( Crocodylus mindorensis ), Guinea crocodile ( C. novaeguineae )
that spread up ini Papua, Saltwater crocodile (C. porosus ), Borneo crocodile
(C. raninus ) Freshwater crocodile or alligator Siam ( C. siamensis ) Sahul
crocodile ( Crocodylus sp.nov . ) , And False Gharial ( Tomistoma schlegelii )
The existence of Mindoro crocodile in Indonesia (which is in the east and
southeast Sulawesi ) have been reported since 1996. Crocodiles of Borneo (
known from West Kalimantan and South ) of similar shape and habitat with
freshwater crocodiles , but with some other characteristics that set it apart .
Similarly, the status of crocodiles Sahul , which has been considered
synonymous with Papua crocodile. Crocodile Sahul limited spread in the
south of Papua , New Guinea crocodiles while in the north central mountains.
The most popular in Indonesia are crocodile novagueneae and porosus,
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especially in there habitat live, Papau. This map below shows the numbers of
crocodilian species found in each country, using color code.
the siameses crocodile, which also occurs in areas around Thailand. The
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Philippine crocodile is restricted to a few small islands in the Philippines.
The New Guinea crocodile is restricted to Papua (Indonesia) and Papua New
Guinean (PNG). Finally, the Australian freshwater crocodile is endemic to the
northern parts of Australia.
Crocodile skin trade is a business that
is very interesting because it has a high
value economically, so many traders
are looking for it. Therefore, the above
situation today to be a tanner crocodile
skin must meet some very stringent
requirements. The first, must have a
fishing license alligator, second must
have crocodile breeding, and the third tannery plant should have, and in the
end we had to make the finished product of this leather or leather gods in
order to obtain more quota.
In addition to the above, if we have more number of captive then we have
the opportunity to capture nature in a certain amount. Results of nature
captured crocodile will be reported to the Department of Forestry area to get
a CITES permit and number so it can be carried out through the port area.
While for this time is a major source of natural capture of West Papua, and
the type of crocodile are porosus and novaguenea. Without those label, it is
considered illegal to subject a criminal.
Crocodiles Novaguenea and Crocodiles Porosus
What is the difference between crocodile porosus /estuarine crocodile known
or salt water with crocodiles novaguena? Here are the characteristics that
distinguish between the crocodile.
twice its width at the base. The saltwater crocodile has fewer armor plates
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on its neck than other crocodilians. On this species, a pair of ridges runs
from the eyes along the center of the snout. The scales are oval in shape
and the scouts are small compared to
other species. The adult saltwater
crocodile's broad body contrasts with that
of most other lean crocodiles, leading to
early unverified assumptions the reptile
was an alligator. The head is very large.
Skull lengths of more than 75 cm (30 in)
have been confirmed for the species and
mandibular lengths have been reported of up to 98.3 cm (38.7 in) (female
skull lengths of over 50 cm (20 in) are exceptional). The teeth are also long,
with the largest teeth (the fourth tooth from the front on the lower jaw)
having been measured to 9 cm (3.5 in) in length. If detached from the body,
the head of a very large male crocodile can reportedly scale over 200 kg
(440 lb) alone.
Young saltwater crocodiles are pale yellow in colour with black stripes and
spots on their bodies and tails. This colouration lasts for several years until
the crocodiles mature into adults. The colour as an adult is much darker
greenish-drab, with a few lighter tan or grey areas sometimes apparent.
Several colour variations are known and some adults may retain fairly pale
skin, whereas others may be so dark as to appear blackish. The ventral
surface is white or yellow in colour on saltwater crocodiles of all ages.
Stripes are present on the lower sides of their bodies, but do not extend
onto their bellies. Their tails are grey with dark bands.
( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saltwater_crocodile)
of crocodile found on the island of New Guinea where there are two
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and lakes and it is most active at night when it feeds on fish and a range of
other small animals. A female crocodile lays a clutch of eggs in a nest
composed of vegetation and she lies up nearby to guard the nest. There is
some degree of parental care for newly hatched juveniles. This crocodile was
over-hunted for its valuable skin in the mid 20th century, but conservation
measures have been put in place, it is reared in ranches and
the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) lists it as being of
"Least Concern".
( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crocodylus_novaeguineae)
Price of the estuarine crocodile skin trade is more expensive than the
freshwater crocodile skin or novaguenea. While the population of freshwater
crocodiles more than the saltwater crocodile. Why the price saltwater
crocodile is more expensive than freshwater ?. The price difference is
because the scale shape of them is have different scales form, where
saltwater crocodiles have smaller scales and more numerous than with
freshwater crocodiles. Generally a saltwater crocodile belly scales have
between 17-19 whereas freshwater crocodiles have belly scales between 9-
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freshwater crocodiles. To be more clear below are images that distinguish
the two crocodile skin.
Shown in the image on the scales of crocodile skin in number between 9-11
means that the skin comes from freshwater crocodiles. Looks of scales which
tend to form a square while the saltwater crocodile is more rectangular.
Also in implementation into leather goods, in general, the saltwater crocodile
skin is more widely used for bags, handbags, clutches while the freshwater
crocodile skin more made for a suitcase or large bag. As a note considering
the population of saltwater crocodiles are limited there are some countries
that do not allow to import the skin such as the USA.
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in a drum. Particular these animals, including wild animals it is difficult to
obtain its perfect-grain skin that is generally predominant spine scars or
friction on the skin. In addition to the above, the method of preservation or
improper way will cause to the growth of microorganisms that are
characterized by the onset of a red color, as well as the scales slip and a
rotten/foul odor. Even during the tanning required amount of water is very
much in order not to cause friction with the drum body. Last attempt to
protect so as not to damage grain, the grain surface of skin should be
protected so that it should be in the sewing two pairs of two. Below is a
picture of a specially selected area on the belly area and the area outside the
selection.
Defects found on pattern area will lead it‟s down the quality of the skin,
especially in the area of Q1-Q4. Defects in these areas will reduce the
quality of the skin equate into quality III even holes in that area will cause
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the skin to enter the reject category. Some kinds and types of defects are
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defects in crocodiles farm results will differ from crocodile skin in natural
catching. Generally, the skin that was obtained from the natural catching
crocodiles, originating from Papua, a lot of defects are found that called sago
mark, because the exposed spines sago tree. For grading sheet purposes
symbolism will be used as follows:
• Cuts = C
• Holes = H
• Scars = S
• Scratches = R
• Scale Slip = SP
• Quadrants = Q1 – Q4
• Skin Preservation = (RW), (ST), (LT)
• Buttons = B
• Feet = F1 – F4
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3. Crocodile skins taken from animals that have died or his regular carcass
will be wrinkled, thin and does not contain. After tanned will be more clearly
look wrinkles on his grain.
5. Red heat usually occurs when salting without bactericidal or stored for
long periods. The color red as a sign of the growth of halophile bacteria red
heat who likes salt. Curing with salt alone is not enough and should always
be added bactericide especially when stored in long-term. 32
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6. Sago Mark. This defect is specially characteristic of crocodile leather
originating from Papua, defects caused by thorns sago trees that grow in
marshy swamp. This defect is difficult to be closed or manipulation at the
time of finishing as the wound is deep and evenly on the body.
Assumed that the alligator is very high value then the selection of raw
materials is done by very strict and careful. However, in general, difficult to
perform the selection of raw materials because the seller does not want to
do it so that the system of buying and selling in the wholesale trading
system in a size that is allowed. Selection is done on the skin when the skin
has become wet blue or crust or finished. In addition the price is not
determine by quality but also distinguished by the size of the skin. the larger
the size of the crocodile the higher its price. Similarly of that crocodile
species determines the price for example Crocodiles saltwater crocodile
porosus or more expensive than freshwater crocodiles or Novaguanea. While
crocodiles alligators cheaper than both.
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Leather Grading Procedures – Crocodile Skin
Crocodile skins will be graded to the following requirements and are
classified as:
1. Grade I
2. Grade II
3. Grade III
4. Reject/Culls
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and sharp surfaces that break or damage scales deep enough to leave
permanent damage to the finished skin.
Subcutaneous blemishes are caused by parasitic worms and bacteria.
These worms bore into the belly scales and feed on the sub-scale
dermis. Brown spot is a bacterium that eats at the dermis and causes severe
scale erosion.
Scale slip is when a scale is loosen or detached from the skin. This is
usually caused by bad preservation
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2. Instructional Objectives.
1. Students can identify the classification and quality of raw materials salty
crocodiles (quality, width, and length) were used and can identifying the
species of Nova and Porosus.
2. Students can explain and clarify the chemicals and materials used in the
product patent python leather tanning from BHO to the finishing process.
3. Students can adjust the process conditions, pH, temperature, velocity,
rotation drum corresponding to each stage of the process.
4. Formulating the proper number of main and auxiliary chemicals in the
tanning process formula python dried curing.
3. Subject Matter
be hard and dry, and it should completely fleshed (no flesh attached to the
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skin). It should be full sized (30cm - 51cm, for Saltwater, 35cm - 51cm for
freshwater).
Grade II is allowed:
(a). 1 cut or hole (Category 1) on belly (Q1 to Q4) but A1 and A3 with no
damage.
(b). 1 cut and 1 hole (Category 1) on A1 and A3 but does not have any belly
damage.
(c). Scale lifting or scale slip of 5 to 6 pieces in any localized spot within
pattern area.
(d). More than 1/2 of tail is present.
(e). 1 leg missing
(f). 1 or 2 buttons within the pattern area
(g). Subcutaneous damage is allow in only areas outside of belly (Q1 to Q4)
and then only in no more than two sections and no more than 20% of the
section where present.
Note: A skin which has any two (2) of the conditions (a), (b) or (f) will make
it a Grade III
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(h). Subcutaneous damage in one belly quadrant, in no more than two other
sections outside of the belly area with no more than 20% of the section
where present.
Note: A skin which has any two (2) of conditions with the exception of
condition (d) will make it a Grade II. Raw unsalted skins that would
otherwise be a Grade I
Crocodile Reject/Culls
A cull is any skin not allowed as Grade III and or which is not cured and not
well-preserved (meaning having ammonia smell and or spongy appearance
in a state of decay) shall be rejected. Any skins exhibiting the conditions
mentioned below will be cause for rejection.
a. Belly Skins that are under 30 cm for saltwater and 35 cm for freshwater.
b. Skins with sago palm marks, severe scale slip and those skins that are too
dry.
c. Skins which have any one of the following conditions or have any
combination of any of the conditions.
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Table 1: Clasification Crocodile Skin
1 I
non non 35-50 non non
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Practicum and Exercising II
Purpose: Sorting and grading
Skin Type: Skin crocodile wet salted
Total: Group practice: .......
Name: ...................
Table: Quality of Croc Skin.
10
11
12
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3. Process Technology.
The purpose of the process is for the leather bag or wallet or belt , finishing
with proteins and in glazing that looks like glass . To obtain these results the
use of non- elastic retanning agent such as vegetable or replacement syntan
be very influential . Grain tightening such as melamine or dicyandiamide
resin required or can also use aluminum tanning agent . Remember
crocodiles are generally have thin part in belly area and empty also its need
to add material such as acrylic resin which will fill the empty area . In order
to be in glazing skin easily and keep the skin not elastic because it is difficult
for glazing use a minimal amount fatliquore and put little bit of sulpated
NFO.
Natural look is the end achievement for finishing, so in the coloring process
of dyeing the skin color should be natural, should be flat, level and dyeing
process is very important, in addition it does not have to be Introduced
using pigments and finished to be full aniline, spending staining method, a
sandwich or topping system. To get the right result like gloss finish when
used glazing machines should have used the binders hard binders like
melamine and milk protein casein binder.
4. Formulation application.
- Tanning agent and auxiliaries.
- Retanning Agent: 33.3% chrome tanning substances, Chrome syntan, -
Nafthalen syntan, Acrylic, Dycyandiamida,, Mimosa, Replecemant syntan,
Bleaching syntan etc..
- Dyestuff: metal complex or acid dyestuff, cationic resin.
- Netralizing agent: Natrium aromatic salts, NaHCO3, NaHSO3.
- Fat Liquore: NFO, Sulpated Oil, sulphited oil especially syntetic oil.
41
- Finishing agent: Melamine and protein binder, wax, poly ethylglycol, Liquid
dyestuff, surfactant anionic/non ionic, ammonia etc
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- Bleaching Agent: KMnO4, Oxalic Acid, Na2SO3.
- Equipment.
Considering the Crocodile skin has a different shape with animal skin that is
more flat and not wavy then it is generally, in a crocodile tannery fleshing
and descaling mainly done by hand, when the receipts are generally living
modified engine from the machine which is used on order to tannary
implementation easier. Another thing that is important is the RPM speed of
the drum is made relatively more slowly, and made the process fluid
between 500-750% so that the skin does not experience the floating and
folding in the drum.
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Raw Material: Wet Blue-porosus/novaguenea
Quality: .......................................
Weigh and sewing pairs.
Washing:
R / Water: 750%
Paramit ML: 1%
Formic acid: 0.5%
Turn the skin for 30 ', drain and rinse with running water.
Retanning I:
R / Water: 750%
Chromosal B: 5% - 30 ',
added with
- Run in drum with retaning agent for 75 minutes, drain, prepare the skin to enter
the dyeing process.
Dyeing I:
R / water (50 ° C): 750%
Acid Black / Brown: 2.5% Use the color of TFL / ICI input powder, turn
30 'added to:
Formic acid: 0.5% dilute (10x) input 2 xa 20 ', drain.
Wash with running water 5 '.
Neutralization:
R / Water: 500%
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pH: 5.0
fluid pH is expected no more than 5, the color indicator test with BCG
kehijauan.Cuci blue cross sections with flowing water for 5 '.
Retanning II
R / Water: 750%
Nafthalene Syntan (Tysyntan TFS): 5% turn 20 '.
Acrylic Resin (Leucotan 1093): 5% turn 30 '
Dicyandiamida (Drasil 8): 4% turn 30 '
Lipsol BSFR: 0.5% emulsify with hot water.
Run for 10‟ then add
Mimosa: 25% Run for 3 hours.
Basyntan DL / Tafigal HK: 5%
Input Mimosa and Basyntan and swivel joint for 3 hours. Drain. To color or
black does not need to be added Basyntan.
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The skin on aging for one night and the next morning wet toggling to dry (2
day), stacking, Coating.
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Clearing
R / Water = 993 cc
Ammonia = 5 g
Anionic surfactant = 2gr
Mix this liquid homogenous and swept into the croco grain . Hang drying
Staining
R / Water = 550 cc.
Melio Ground NU = 10 gr
Lustre HN = 100 gr.
IPA = 25 cc
Color LD = 10 gr / l
Mix this liquid homogenous and swept into the grain . Hang drying , repeat
1X by spray, drying. Glazing.
Base Coating
R / Water = 550 cc.
Melio wax Top = 100 gr.
Crystal Casein solution (10%) = 250 gr
Mix this liquid homogenous and swept into the grain . Hang drying , repeat
1X by spray , drying . Glazing .
Medium Coat
R / Water = 690 gr
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Homogenous mix and spray this liquid into the grain . Hang drying , do it
once more , drying . Glazing .
Top Coating
R / Water = 690 gr
Melio Top 239 = 300 gr
Cross linker Agent = 10 gr
Homogenous mix and spray this liquid into the grain . Hang drying , do it
once more , drying over night . Glazing and bombey.
Result : Good effect of glazing but the scale look platter. To make the result
of scale like a natural as possible (grain bend) reduced the pressure of glaze
machine then bombay by 70 0C.
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1. Alligator Day Luxe Tote, £ 24,218 by The Row from Barneys
Luxurious indeed; This tote retails at $ 39,000 and actually can't be
shipped to the UK because its hefty price tag exceeds the maxiumum price
for shipping. But if you really want this piece of arm candy, you may as well
charter a private jet to go and pick it up in Manhattan.
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2. Soft stirrup crocodile shoulder bag, £21,440 by Gucci.
If you want an exotic skin, you'd better be prepared to pay for it. The
naturally-sourced crocodile for this bag is complemented with antique golsd
hardware and of course, it's made in Italy.
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3. The Hermes Matte Crocodile Birkin bag is a 30-centimeter tote bag
made of crocodile skin. It is set with 10 carats of white diamonds. The bag
was auctioned off in New York for $120,000.
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4. Hermes Red Crocodile Birkin Purse Bag – $203,150
The Hermes Red Crocodile Birkin Purse Bag is a tote bag that measures only
30 centimeters long. It holds the world record as the most expensive purse
sold at an auction. Its buckles and clasps are made of solid 18-karat white
gold and diamonds. The bag costs $ 203,150.
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5. Hermes Rose Gold Crocodile or Diamond Birkin Bag – $1.9 million
The Hermes Rose Gold and Diamond Crocodile Birkin bag is also part of the
brand‟s Haute Bijouterie collection. Only three pieces of this model were
made. This Pierre Hardy-designed bag is actually the size of a bracelet. The
bag has an intertwining chain made up of more than 11,000 diamonds.
Alternatively, buyers can go for the rose gold crocodile version of the bag
that has scales and 1,160 diamonds. This bag has a price tag of $1.9 million
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LANA MARK: Although we‟ve placed this
brand at 10th position, this handbag brand is
considered to be one of the most expensive labels
in fashion accessories. The brand is popular in
designing leather bags, which are now available
in 150 styles in 100 different shades. The brand is
widely popular among Hollywood celebrities. It
has been favorites among celebs like Angelina
Jolie, Jennifer Anniston, Paris Hilton, Drew
Barrymore, Kate Winslet and Charlize Theron. It
was also the favorite of Helen Miren and Elizabeth Taylor. Apart from Eli
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Saab and Valentino gowns, the actresses were also seen with Lana Marks
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clutches. Charlize Theron had the honor to walk the red carpet with a
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$100,000 timeless Lana Marks Cleopatra clutch which was embellished with
1500 fully faceted and cut black and white diamonds set in 18 carat white
gold. Even Angelina Jolie was seen holding a black clutch from the same
brand which aptly suited her black Eli Saab gown.
GARMENT CROCO.
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3. Lizard Tanning Method
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Introduction
Lizards
Monitor lizard or lizard commonly known as bayawak, menyawak (jw),
lizards (Ind) or Goannas, genus Varanus, are members of the family
Varanidae. Varanus is a group of carnivorous lizards which includes the
heaviest living the dragon komodo, lizard and crocodile monitor lizard which
is the longest in the world. The closest relatives are helodermatid anguid and
lizards.
Monitor lizards are usually large reptiles, although some can be as
small as 12 cm in length. They have long necks, powerful tails and claws,
and well-developed limbs. Most species are terrestrial, but arboreal and
semi-aquatic monitors are also known. Almost all monitor lizards are
carnivorous, although Varanus Varanus olivaceus prasinus and is also known
to eat fruit. They are oviparous, laying 7-37 eggs, which they often cover
with soil or protect in a hollow tree
Etymology
The generic name Varanus is derived from the Arabic word waral
(alternative spelling 'waran'= "lizard"), which translates as "monitor" in
English. The specific name is the Latin word for "Saviour" denoting a possible
religious connotation. The Water monitor is occasionally confused for the
Crocodile monitor (V. salvadorii) because of their similar scientific names.
The name comes from a common semitic root Quran, waran, or waral
meaning "lizard". It has been suggested that the occasional habit of varanids
to stand on their two hind legs and to appear to "monitor" their surroundings
led to this name as it was Latinized into Varanus. Its common name is
derived from the Latin word monere meaning "to warn"
In Tamil and Malayalam monitor lizards are known as "Udumbu", in Marathi
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are known as "Udumu". Due to confusion with the large New World lizards of
the family iguanidae, the lizards became known as "goannas" in Australia.
Similarly, in Southern Africa they are referred to as "leguaan", from the
Dutch for iguana.
Asian Water Monitor
Asia water monitor or Varanus Salvatore. Beside this species water varanus
also include V. s. andamanensis, (Andaman Islands Water Monitor ), V. s.
bivittatus, (Two-striped Water Monitor), V. s. komaini, Black Water Monitor,
V. s. macromaculatus, Southeast Asian Water Monitor.
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islands within the Sunda arch, Indonesia; Type locality in Java Black Water
Monitor (Varanus salvator komaini). Southeast Asian Water Monitor (
Varanus salvator macromaculatus ): Mainland Southeast Asia, Sumatra,
Kalimantan and smaller associated offshore islands.
Water monitors can be defensive, using their tail, claws, and jaws when
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fighting. They are excellent swimmers, using the raised fin located on their
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tails to steer through water. Water Monitors are carnivores, and have a wide
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range of foods. They are known to eat fish, frogs, rodents, birds, crabs, and
snakes. They have also been known to eat turtles, as well as young
crocodiles and crocodile eggs. Like the Komodo Dragon, they will often eat
carrion.
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GRADING
Each lizard skin project is different. How do you know what kind of skin to
buy, how to size the skins, and how to get the appropriate cut for your
project? That's one of the hardest parts of the process, so we'd like to walk
you through it.
The Cut
The first decision you get to make is front cut or back cut. It‟s a bit
counterintuitive: back cut means the skin is cut down the back so you get
the belly of the lizard skin. Front cut means the skin is cut down the belly so
you get the back of the lizard skin. This is purely a design and
merchandising decision since there is no price difference between the two
cuts. It‟s worth noting that the Nile lizard is only available in front cut and
the teju is typically only available in back cut. The ring lizard is available in
both.
Now, do you want a bleached or unbleached lizard skin? The bleached skins
cover up the natural markings of the lizard (e.g., the ring pattern on the ring
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lizard) so the skin is all one uniform color. Unbleached skins leave these
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markings intact. These are very different aesthetics. Since the bleaching is
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an additional process, these skins are typically slightly more expensive than
the skins with the natural markings.
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Grade 2 skins possess defects in the center of the skin, such holes,
scars and scratches.
If your patterns are small, you can often cut around the defects on the grade
2 skins for which you will pay less. If you have larger patterns, it‟s better to
switch to the better grade lizard skin.
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Soaking R/
Water = 750 %
Bactericide = 0,2 %
Wetting Agent = 1,50 %
pH Regulator (NaOH) = 0,2% pH of solution = 10-10,5. Soak the skin for
2 night.
Liming R/
Water = 500%
NaHS = 1,0 % (solved with hot water 20x) 10‟ running, RPM 3
Na2S = 4,0 % (solved with hot water 20 x) 10‟ Running, RPM 3
Ca(OH)2 = 4,0 %
Soak the skin in the drum/batch for 30‟ & run 30‟. Repeat 5 x. over night.
Fleshing
Remove all meat attached and fat tissue cleanly by beam and manual knife.
Brush of the scale grain by smooth hair brushing
Deliming R/
Water = 250 %
(NH4)2SO4 = 3,0 % (solved with water 10x) 20‟
HCOOH = 0,5% (diluted with water 10x) 2x, a 20‟, pH = 7,5-8.
Drain, washing. Using fresh water for bating.
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Bating R/
Water = 250%.
(NH4)2SO4 = 1,2 % (solved with water 10x), 20‟
Bating Agent = 3 %. 75‟.
NaHSO3 =2%, soak over night.
Verna Degrease = 1 %. Run 60 and over night.
Bleaching R/
Water = 250 % Run 10‟
NaCl = 17 %
KMnO4 = 1,0% (solved with hot water 10x), 20‟, drain.
+
Water = 100 % Run 10‟
NaCl = 5 %
Na2SO3 = 2,0% (solved with water 10x),
(COOH)2 = 0,5% (solved with water 10x), 45‟ and soak over night.
Control in the morning… repeat if marking is not clean.
Pickling R/
Water = 300%.
NaCl = 20%. ( 6oBe).
HCOOH = 1,5%.( diluted with water 10x), 3x a 20‟
H2SO4 = 0,5%.(diluted with water 10x ), 3x a 20‟, run 4 hr, over night.
pH = 2,8. 64
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Tanning can process by many kind of method, like chrome tanning, aldehyde
tanning, vegetable/syntan tanning, TPHS, Oxazolidine etc, depending for
the objection of processing.
Chrome Tanning R/
Water = 100 %
NaCl = 8 % 6-7 Be, 10‟ running.
Sulphited Oil/Cationic Oil = 0,75 % (Emulsified with hot-water 10x ) 5‟
running.
Chromosal B= 8% put together with MgO in the same time running 8 hr.
MgO = 0,5 %
Boilling test cookproof.
Aging
Horse up wet-blue over night.
Shaving 1 mm, if possible.
Buffing no 600 1x, repeat by sand paper no 800.
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Neutralizing R/.
Water= 250 %
NaHCOO = 1,2 % (solved with water 10x ) running 15‟
NaHCO3 = 1 % (solved with water 10 x) insert 2x a‟ 20‟, pH 5,5.
Na2CO3 = 0,25- 0,5% if the pH of solution not reached 5,5.
Drain, washing by running water 10 „.
Retanning I R/
Water = 200 %
Acrylic Resin = 3 % run 30‟
Nafthalene Syntan = 4 %
Tara = 4 %
White Syntan = 8 % Put together inside the drum & drumming 90‟
Drain, washing by running water.
Note: For dark color leather substitute all the with vegetable tanning
Levelling Agent = 1 %
Acid Dyes Color = 1%. 30 „.
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+
Lipsol S = 2% (diluted with hot water 5x) 10.
+
HCOOH = 2,5 % (diluted with water 10x). 3x, a 20‟. Dyeing solution is
clear. Drain, wash.
Fixing R/
Water = 250 %
Fixing Agent = 0,5% 20‟
Antimould = 0,001% 20‟. Drain, wash.
Horse Up
Drying
Stacking
Toggling
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Clearing R/
Water = 993 cc
Amonia = 5 gr
Surfactant anionic = 2gr
Mix homogenous and swept this liquid into python grain. Hang drying
Base Coating R/
Water = 550 cc.
BI = 100 gr.
Luron Binder U = 250 gr
Mix homogenous and swept this liquid into python grain. Hang drying,
repeat by spray 1X, drying. Glazing.
Medium/Color Coat R/
Water = 690 gr
Protein Binder = 300 gr
Natural fat = 10 gr
Color = ?
Mix homogenous and spray this liquid into python grain. Hang drying, do it
once more, drying. Glazing.
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Top Coat R/
Water =
Luron =
Formaldehide/Glutardehyde = 10 gr
Top wax = 20 gr.
Mix homogenous and swept this liquid into python grain. Hang drying,
repeat by spray 1X, drying. Glazing & Ironing.
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