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Preparation and testing of perfume as described in Brhatsamhita

Article  in  Indian journal of traditional knowledge · April 2009

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Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge
Vol. 8(2), April 2009, pp. 275-277

Preparation and testing of perfume as described in Brhatsamhita

Sachin A Mandavgane1*, PP Holey2 & JY Deopujari3
1
Department of Chemical Engineering, Visvesvaraya National Institute of Technology, Nagpur, Maharashtra;
Laxminarayan Institute of Technology, Nagpur 440 010, Maharashtra;
3
Dhanvantari Hospital, Dharampeth, Nagpur 440 010, Maharashtra
E-mail:mandavgane@gmail.com
Received 18 May 2007; revised 24 September 2007

Brhatsamhita of Varaha-Mihira (5-6th century AD) describes the materials and methods of perfumes in chapter
Gandhayukti. This chapter explains Gandhārnava (perfume ocean), wherein it provides a matrix of 4×4, i.e. total 16
ingredients, choosing any 4 of them along any row, column or diagonal and permuted variously at will and that in one, 2, 3
or 4 parts provide 1,820 different compositions of perfumes. Though the chapter gives the details of raw materials, but it has
not given the process of preparation and purification. In the study, an attempt was made to prepare perfumes using 8 of 16
ingredients with different permutations. Paper presents a primary study to explore the possibility and feasibility of perfume
preparation as described in Brhatsamhita.
Keywords: Ancient technology, Brhatsamhita, Varaha-Mihira, Perfume
IPC Int. Cl.8: A61K8/18; A61Q13/00

Scientists all over the world are making efforts to 3×3 for perfume preparation. Following 4×4 matrixes
develop novel synthetic methods, reaction conditions, depicts the raw materials described in the slokas 13 &
analytical tools, catalysts and processes under the new 14 of Gandhayukti1.
paradigm of green chemistry. Green chemistry is an
innovative use of feed stock reagents, solvents, Ghana Vālaka Śaibya Karpûra
products or byproducts that have potential or proven Uŝira Nāgapuşpa Vyāghranakha spŗkkā
hazards to the environment and public health. Thus, Aguru Madanaka Nakha Tagara
green chemistry is a fundamental and important tool
Dhānya Karcûra Coraka Candana
in accomplishing pollution prevention by using
chemistry in benign way. This modern approach
clearly reflects in traditional Indian science and ?kuokyd’kSys;ddiwZjks’khukxiq"ikf.k A
philosophy. Such much known scripture is
O;k?kzupkLi`Ddkxq#enudu[krxj/kkU;kfu AA13AA
Brhatsamhita compiled by Varahmihir (325 BC)1. An
attempt has been made to explore the feasibility of dpwZjpksyey;S% LosPNkifjofrZrS’prqfHkZjr% A
,df}f=prqfHkZHkkZxSxZU/kk.kZoks Hkofr AA14AA
ancient technologies described in Brhatsamhita2. One
of the disciplines in Brhatsamhita is preparation of
perfumes called Gandhayukti1. Brhatsamhita The adjoining figure explains the ancient method of
describes several perfumeries like, scented water for getting at the final number of compositions. The
bathing, scented hair oil, scent to aggravate passion, number 1 to 16 in the first column represents in order
perfume for cloths, perfume for mouth and scented the 16 substances mentioned in the verses. First, take
tooth sticks. Perfumes and scents were manufactured the first 3 substances as constant and the fourth as
for the benefit of royal personages and inmates variable. It yields 13 perfumes. Then, substances 1, 3
harems. All these things show that the level of and 4 are kept constant and one of the rest is variable
scientific and industrial enterprise was pretty high in yielding 12 perfume compositions. Similarly by
ancient India. The chapter gives 3 different matrices keeping 1,2,4; 1,2,5; 1,3,5; 1,3,6; 1,4,7 and so on as
of raw materials, 2 of which are 4×4 and another is constant and remaining one as variable would yield
___________ total 1,820 different perfume compositions by making
*Corresponding author use of just 16 ingredients.
276 INDIAN J TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE, VOL 8, No. 2, APRIL 2009

16 jks/zkks’khjurkxq#eqLrki=fiz;³~xqouiF;k% A
15 120 uodks"BkRdPNiqVkn~æO;f=r;a leq)~R; AA29AA
14 105 560
13 91 455 1820 pUnurq#"dHkkxkS ’kqDR;/ka ikfndk p ’kriq"ik A
12 78 364 1365 dVqfg³~xqyxqM/kwI; k% dsljxU/kk’prqj’khfr% AA30AA
11 66 286 1001
10 55 220 715 Lodhra Uŝira Nata 9
9 45 156 495 Aguru Mustā Patra 8 36
8 36 120 330 Priyaňgu Vana Pathyā 7 28 84
7 28 84 210 6 21 56
6 21 56 126 5 15 35
5 15 35 70 4 10 20
4 10 20 35 3 6 10
3 6 10 15 2 3 4
2 3 4 5 1 1 1
1 1 1 1
Brhatsamhita explains Gandhārnava (Perfume
Following 4×4 matrixes depicts the raw materials Ocean). Though the chapter gives details of raw
described in the slokas 23 & 24 of Gandhayukti and materials in slokas 13 and 14 but it has not given the
their proportions in the perfume composition. It process of preparation and purification3-8. These two
means 2 parts of Aguru, 3 parts of Patra, 5 parts of slokas are explored in detail in the paper. Efforts are
Turuşka and 8 parts of Śaibya will yield a perfume made to explore process of perfume preparation as
composition1. given in slokas13 and 14.

Aguru 2 Patra 3 Turuşka 5 Śaibya 8

Uŝira (Veticrlia zizanioides (Linn.) Mash)
Priyaňgu 5 Mustā 8 Bola 2 Keŝa 3 It contains volatile essential oil and acts as
Spŗkkā 4 Tvak 1 Tagara 7 Māmsî 6 refrigerant and stimulant.
Candana 7 Nakha 3 Śrika 6 Kunduruka 1 Aguru (Aegle marmelos Correa ex Roxb)
It contains a volatile essential oil. It is used as a
f}=hfUnª;k"VHkkxSjxq#% i=a rq#"d’kSys;kS A
stimulant in perfume. It is also an ingredient in
fo"k;k"Vi{knguk% fiz;³~xqeqLrkjlk% ds’k% AA23AA
various nervine tonics.
Li`DdkRoDrxjk.kka ekaL;ka’p d`rSdlIr"kM~Hkkxk% A Vālaka (Aporuosa lindleyana Baill)
lIrrqZosnpUnªSeZy;u[kJhddqUnq#dk% AA24AA
Vālaka is found all aver India and used as
stimulant.
Lodhra Uŝira Nata
Aguru Mustā Patra Madanfal (Randia spinosa poir)
Priyaňgu Vana Pathyā Bark of the tree is sedative and nervine calmative.
In a receptacle of 16 divisions in whatever manner Karpûra (Camphora officinarum Nees ex Wall)
(horizontally, vertically, diagonally, etc.) if 4 It yields around 4% volatile oil. It is stimulant to skin
substances are mixed, it yields 18 proportions for each and cardiac stimulant. It has a penetrating odour,
of the various compounds of perfumes. Here, the aromatic nature and extremely volatile.
general rule is, choose 4 substances in any manner,
Dhānya (Coriandrum sativum Linn.)
provided their total proportions are 18. So, the total
It contains13% volatile oil and 3.12% ether extract.
numbers of perfume formulation are limited.
It is aromatic, stimulant and refrigerant. The oil is
Following 3×3 matrixes depicts the raw materials
very useful in neuralgia.
described in the slokas 29 & 30 of Gandhayukti1.
Choosing any three of them along any row, column or Nāgapuşpa (Mesua ferrea Linn.)
diagonal and permuted variously at will and that in It contains oleoresin from which essential oil is
one, 2 and 3 parts provide 84 different compositions obtained. Essential oil is very fragrant. It is
of perfumes. aromatic and stimulant in nature.
 MANDAVGANE et al.: PREPARATION OF PERFUME AS DESCRIBED IN BRHATSAMHITA
Tagara (Valeriana Jatamansi Jones)
It contains a large proportion of volatile oil
(ethereal valerianic oil) containing esters of
valerianic acid. It is stimulant, sedative and
hypnotic sense. It is useful calmative.
Saibya (Benzoin)
It mainly contains benzoic acid, cinnamic acid,
vanillin and volatile oil. It is antiseptic, disinfectant
and stimulant in nature. It is used throughout India
as incense.
Spŗkkā (Bryonopsis laciniosa (Linn.) Naud)
It primarily contains bryonin, which is generally
used in bilious attack.
Ghana (Cyperus rotundus Linn.)
The dried root powder can be used like talcum
powder. It is also used to make perfumes.
Karcûra (Hedychium spicatum Buch.- Ham)
Its basic constituents are essential oil, methyl
parcumarin acetate. Aromatic root stalks are used
as perfume.
Vyāghranakha (Cuttle fish bone)
It is characterized by its internal calcareous shell
and its ink sac.
Nakha
It is well known as shell perfume and used in
perfume making.
Coraka (Scirpus articulatus Linn.)
It is found in eastern India.
Chandana (Santalum album Linn.)
It is commonly known as sandalwood. It is one of
the oldest incense materials. Chandana flower and
wood show perfumery note.
Methodology
Perfume was prepared by two methods. For the
present study, components of the fourth column and
row of the matrix 1 i.e. Candana, Coraka, Karcûra,
Dhānya, Karpûra, spŗkkā, & Tagara were used. Raw
materials were dried, ground and screened to uniform
size3-8. Extraction was carried out using water and
alcohol by taking 20:1 solvent to raw material (by
weight) in a Soxhlet apparatus. Different perfumes
were prepared by mixing Candana, Coraka, Karcûra,
Dhānya in permutation of 1:2:3:4 by weight. Another
set of perfumes were prepared with Canada, Karpûra,
spŗkkā, Tagara. Thus, using just 8 raw materials total
24 perfume samples were prepared. Water based
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277
perfumes and alcohol based perfumes were tested for
their performance.
Results and discussion
The prepared perfume samples were tested on
human skin and on cloth surface. The water base
samples gave wet felling on the skin and took more
time to dry off from the cloth surface. In some cases,
water base sample marked stains on cloth surface.
Alcohol base samples exhibited good perfumery
properties. All alcohol base samples showed a shelf
life of 6 months. The samples were given to a group
of 25 people of different age, gender and social status
and feed back was sought about the smell, lasting of
smell, itch feeling, stain on cloth and whether smell
fades with time. All of them gave a satisfactory
response. To make this perfume technology
commercially viable, more research and development
is needed. Authors have explored the possibility of
perfume preparing in a laboratory scale successfully.
Conclusion
From the experimental study, it is observed that the
ancient technology of perfumery is pretty rich. By a
simple method, 24 different perfume samples could
be prepared using 8 raw materials. The technology is
cheap and easy. This is a successful attempt to
explore the possibility and feasibility of perfume
manufacturing as described in the slokas on
Gandhayukti in Brhatsamhita of Varaha-Mihira.
References
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