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Summer Textile Internship

DECLARATION

We Sakshi kaul, Sohini Ali and Sunistha Singh hereby declare that the internship
project report titled “Summer Textile Internship”, submitted towards the
fulfillment of two weeks internship is our original work and no part of the project
has been copied from any other reports or any other work carried by someone else
which has been submitted for any other degree or award. However, any material
taken from any other published source has been suitably referred and
acknowledged at various spaces.

(__________________)

Ms. Subhalakshmi Kropi

NAME: Sakhi Kaul


Sohini Ali
Sunistha Singh
BATCH: 2013-17.
DATE: 25th May 2015 – 06th June 2015.
PLACE: Arvind Textile Mills, Santej,
Ahmedabad, Gujrat, India – 380015.
CERTIFICATE

This is to certify that the Internship Project titled “Summer Textile Internship”,

submitted towards the partial fulfillment of the Bachelors in Fashion Technology

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Summer Textile Internship

by Sakshi Kaul, Sohini Ali and Sunistha Singh is their original work under my

guidance and the results are based on the research done by them.

(___________________)

Ms. Subhalakshmi Kropi

DATE:

PLACE:

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We are grateful to NIFT for providing us an opportunity to work on our “Summer


Textile Internship”. We express our whole hearted thanks to our Mentor Ms.

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Summer Textile Internship

Subhalakshmi Kropi for her encouragement and moral support in organizing our
work and giving us valuable information for making it presentable.

We are indebted to Mr. Kabir Sarosh (Processing Department Supervisor) and


Mr. Rajesh Tiwari(Weaving Department Supervisor), who guided and supervised
us throughout this study. We have no words to express our gratitude towards them.

We are also thankful to Ms. Shivangi Seth (Human Resource Department) for
providing us the details of conducting the research from its inception.

We will be failing in our duty if we do not mention the name of our Director Prof.
V Shivalingam and other faculty members for their help in our Internship Project.

Lastly, we are also obliged to our family and friends for providing us valuable
suggestions.

1. INTRODUCTION

1.1. TEXTILE INDUSTRY

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The textile industry is a term used for industries primarily concerned with the
design or manufacture of clothing as well as the distribution and use of textiles.
Textile is a general term applied to any manufacture from fibers, filaments, or
yarns characterized by flexibility, fineness and high ratio of length to thickness.
Textile Industry is unique in the terms that it is an independent industry, from the
basic requirement of raw materials to the final products, with huge value-addition
at every stage of processing.

Textile Internship as a module in the course of Apparel Production emphasizes on


the learning of the processes in the Textile Industry which involves the major
processes of procuring raw material, spinning, weaving or knitting, dyeing,
printing, finishing, testing and quality control measures. The internship revolves
around observing the functioning and processing at a Textile Manufacturing Unit.

It also greatly focuses on the learning of the process parameters, working


conditions, process flow and other important criteria in the manufacturing process.
It is also important to observe the machinery details, safety measures, and
productivity, testing and quality criteria. We were to understand the step-wise
breakdown of all the process, how they are carried and what are the start and end-
product at each of these steps.

1.2. INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

 Indian textile industry and market size


 Textiles sector contributes to 14 per cent of industrial production.

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 4 per cent of national GDP.


 10.63 per cent of country's export earnings.

• MARKET SIZE
 India's share of global textile exports is expected to increase from the
 Current 4% to around 7% over the next three-years

• GROWTH RATE OF ARVIND LIMITED


 3-4 percent during
the last six decade
 9-10 percent during
last five year

• SCOPE OF RIVALRY
 Raymond India
 Welspun India ltd
 Alok Industries
 Gokaldas Exports
 Arvee Industries
Fig 1.1. Arvind ltd. Revenue
 Bharat Vijay mills
composition

1.3. OBJECTIVE OF TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

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The objective of our textile internship at Arvind Limited was to understand the
concept of spun yarn production, grey fabric production, dyeing, printing and
finishing of fabric, textile testing and their quality aspects both technical as well as
for commercial purposes.

Our first step was to learn about the profile of the company and their basic
dealings. We further dealt with the way the company handles the raw material and
sends it through to subsequent stages of manufacturing. We were to learn about the
various stages in the entire process of textile manufacturing, the importance of
each of these stages, the machinery features, machine and material process
parameters available in detail in the areas as mentioned below.

We summarize some of the major concepts that we were to observe and understand
during our internship:

 Spinning Section

 Weaving Section

 Dyeing Section

 Quality Assurance Section

 Environmental Factors

1.4. COMPANY OVERVIEW

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Date of Establishment 1931


Revenue 604.01 ( USD in Millions )
Market Cap 18037.2105231 ( Rs. in Millions )
Corporate Address Naroda Road, , Ahmedabad-380025, Gujarat
www.arvindmills.com
Management Details
Chairperson - Sanjay S Lalbhai
MD - Sanjay S Lalbhai
Directors – Bakul Dholakia, G M Yadwadkar, Jayesh
K Shah, K M Jayarao, KulinLalbhai, Munesh Khanna,
PrabhakarChavan, Prabhakar,Dalal, PunitLalbhai, R V
Bhimani, R W Khanna, RenukaRamanath, S R Rao,
Sanjay S Lalbhai,Sudhir Mehta, TarunSheth

Business Operation Textile

Company Secretary R V Bhimani

Bankers ABN Amro Bank, Axis Bank , Bank of Baroda,


Canara Bank , EXIM Bank, HDFC Bank, ICICI Bank,
Standard Chartered Bank, State Bank of Hyderabad,
State Bank of India, State Bank of Patiala, UCO Bank

Auditors Sorab S Engineer & Co

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1.5. COMPANY PROFILE

The Arvind Ltd. was set up with the pioneering effort of the Lalbhai brothers in
1931. With the best of technology and business acumen, Arvind has become a true
Indian multinational, having chosen to invest strategically, where demand has been
high and quality required has been superlative. The Arvind Mills Limited is the
flagship company of Rs.20 billion (US$ 500 million). Arvind Mills has set the pace
for changing global customer demands for textiles and has focused its attention on
selection of core products.

Fore vision and Technology has made Arvind one of the top three producers of
Denim in the world, and the most diversified conglomerates in the world. Arvind is
already making its presence felt in Shirting’s, Knits and Khakis fabrics apart from
being all set to create ripples in the ready to wear Garments world over.

Arvind’s knits department has an annual knitting capacity of 10,000 tons. Apart
from the basic knitting capabilities, Arvind has mastered specialty knitting
techniques such as yarn-dyed auto stripers, jacquards, and stretch fabric. The knits
vertical has a fabric dyeing capacity of 6500 tons per annum and yarn dyeing
capacity of 3500 tons per annum. It has the ability to process both tubular and
open-width fabric and offer specialty finishes like mercerization, singing and
various forms of brushing and peaching. The department also boasts of a state-of-
the art print shop equipped with fully automatic rotary screen printing technique.

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1.5.1. VISION AND VALUES

The underlying theme running across the broad spectrum of all business activities
at Arvind is that of enhancing lifestyles of people, across all diversities and
demographics. To serve that end, the corporate vision for Arvind states:
‘We will enable people to experience a better quality of life by providing
enriching and inspiring lifestyle solutions’.

1.5.2. MILESTONES

1931 -The inception of Arvind Mills at the hands of three brothers – Kastur bhai,
Narottam bhai and Chimanbhai Lalbhai.

1934 - Arvind establishes itself amongst the foremost textile units in the country.

1980 - Arvind records highest levels of profitability. The new strategy – ‘Reno
vision’, points at changing the business focus from local to global, towards a high-
quality premium niche market.

1987-88 - Arvind enters the export market for Denims with a dual focus - Denim
for leisure and Denim for fashion wear.

1991 - Arvind emerges as the third largest manufacturer of denim in the world.

1997 - India’s largest state-of-the-art facility for shirting, gabardine and knits is set
up at Santej.

2005 - Arvind creates a unique one-stop shop service on a global scale, offering
garment packages to reputed national and international customers.

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2007 - Arvind expands its presence in the brands and retail segment by establishing
Mega Mart – One of India’s largest value retail chains.

2010 - Arvind launches The Arvind Store, a concept putting the company’s best
fabrics, brands and bespoke styling and tailoring solutions under one roof.

 Arvind launches its first major Real Estate projects.

 Arvind becomes one of India’s largest producers of fire protection fabrics.

2012 – Joint venture with PD Group, Germany, for manufacture of glass fabrics.

2014 – Joint venture with PVH Corp for Calvin Klein Businesses in India.

 Launches Formal suits with Goodhill Corporation Limited of Japan.

2014 – Joint venture with OG Corp, Japan, for manufacture and sale of non-woven
fabrics, project being spearheaded by Dr. Kunal Shah.

2014 – Forayed into the E-commerce segment with custom clothing brand
'Creyate'.

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1.5.3. ARVIND TODAY

Arvind has a strong focus on Research and Development for process improvement,
cost reduction and new product development. This is evident in the fact that Arvind
continuously modifies its production process to enhance flexibility on the use of
various types and quality of cotton.

State-of-the-art technology and equipment have made Arvind one of the leading
producers of denim in the world. This cutting edge position comes to Arvind
courtesy technologies such as Open-end Spinning, Foam Finishing, Mercerizing,
Slasher-dyeing, Rope-dyeing, Air-Jet, Projectile and Wet Finishing. It’s only
natural that Arvind quality fabrics are in high demand in the markets of Europe,
US, West Asia, the Far East and Asia Pacific.

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Fig. 1.2 Arvind


Summer Textile Internship

Fig. 1.3

1.5.4. PRODUCTION FLOW CHART

ARVIND LIMITED

Managing Director (SANJAY LALBHAI)

Human Store Exports Quality Garment Packages


Resource s & Assuranc Divisions
Departme

Spinnin Weavin Processin Engineerin


g g&
Finishing

Administratio Order
Productio
n and Management &

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Order Purchases Administration


Management
Production Accounts
Sampling
Inspection Banking
Documentation
ISO
Invoicing
Co-ordination

1.6. COMPANY PROCESS FLOW

The customer and the marketing department communicate with each other. The
marketing department then talks with Product Development Group (PDG) and then
communicates the terms discussed to the Quality Assurance and Product Planning
and Control (PPC) who decide on the various guidelines and the time required to
execute the order. These guidelines are then communicated to the plant head who
conveys them to the various departments according to the guidelines and
instructions. The fabric is then sent to the fabric inspection and then to the Central
Quality Assurance, who sends it to folding and dispatch from where other financial
activities follow.

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Fig 1.4 Company Process Flow

1.7. DENIM
The late 1980’s saw Arvind pioneer
the manufacture of denim in India.
Today with an installed capacity of
over 110 million meters per annum,
Arvind is a leading producer of denim
worldwide. Design, Innovations and
Sustainability have been their core
competency and have played a key
role in their success. The use of
sophisticated ultramodern technology
under the guidance of world-renowned designers has enabled Arvind to deliver
many firsts in the Fig 1.3
Fig international markets. All their products are designed and
1.5 of expert design inputs coming from their designers based out
modeled on the basis
of India, Japan, Italy and the United States. All Arvind Denim products come with
the hallmark of distinctiveness and quality.

Some Examples:

 Shuttle looms for Selvedge denim


 Name selvedge and Stretch selvedge
 Unique Fibers like Excel, Jute, Silk, Linen
 Natural Indigo and Vegetable dyes
 Unique concept products like Indigo voiles & Handspun denim
 Organic, BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) and Sustainable denim

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The denim facility at Arvind is accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX
100, GOTS, and Organic exchange standard. Our labs are certified by NABL (ISO
17025 certification) and customers like Levi’s, Lee, and Wrangler etc.

1.8. KNITS
Arvind’s knits department has an
annual knitting capacity of 5,000
tons. The knits vertical has a fabric
dyeing capacity of 5000 tons per
annum and yarn dyeing capacity of
1800 tons per annum. It has the
ability to process both tubular and open-width fabrics and
Figoffers
1.6 specialty finishes
like mercerization, singeing and various forms of brushing and peaching.

Basic knits:

 Jersey, Pique, Rib, and Interlock

 Specialty knits: Yarn-dyed, Auto stripers, Jacquards, and Stretch fabric

 Fibres: Cotton, Excel, Viscose, Modal, Polyester

 Finishes: Mercerization, Brushing, Peaching, Aero-finish.

Marks & Spencer – Eddie Bauer – Zara – Josepha Banks

1.9. WOVEN (SHIRTING)

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Their expertise in new age shirting


fabric and bottom weights is
unparalleled. Their shirting fabrics
have consistently fetched a
premium in the local and
international markets. Their state of
the art facility is capable of

Fig 1.7
producing a total of 65 million
meters per annum of Shirting and bottom weight fabrics. This capacity is set to
increase reaching a total of 84 million meters by the next financial year.

They have a dedicated in-house design team constantly working on product


innovation and fashion forecasts for the
Fig domestic and international markets. They are
1.4
the largest yardage and sampling mill in India.

Their spinning setup can produce a variety of


counts for yarn types like compacts, slubs,
singed yarn etc. Their weaving capabilities
include high-speed Airjet looms and Rapier
looms. Their finishing capabilities include
continuous bleaching and dying ranges, caustic mercerization,Fig
and machinery for
1.8
various chemical and mechanical finishes.

A sophisticated and supremely flexible package dying facility complete with


vessels ranging from 1 Kg to 750 Kgs and state of the art printing facilities are also
in place.

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 In addition to cotton they now work with a variety of fibres including


Modal, Tencel, Excel, Viscose, Bemberg, Lycra, Silk, Linen, Polyester and
Nylon.
 They are host to India’s first Ammonia Mercerization Plant
 They use patented technology to impart structural stability and superior
hand-feel for the difficult-to-handle fibres like Modal, Tencel, Excel and
Viscose
 Over the years, therein-house R&D department has successfully developed
and perfected a number of finishes adding value to their products and
uniqueness to their range.
 Other Chemical Finishes: Wrinkle free, Prepress, Everfresh, Easy to Iron,
Stain Repellent, Nano Care, Anti-Bacterial, Permawhite etc.
 Mechanical Finishes: Aero, Peach, Brush, Diamond Emery and Carbonium

Their product range is certified by Oekotex, their processes are certified by GOTS
for producing Organic products, they are certified producers of Lycra and Teflon
based varieties, while their laboratory is accredited by Marks and Spencers, Next,
Gap Inc., Levi's, DuPont and INVISTA.

Fig 1.9
1.10. Customers

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Gap Inc – Patagonia – Tommy Hilfiger – Quicksilver – Brooks Brothers – Silver


Jeans – Calvin Klein – FCUK – Pull & Bear – Jack & Jones – Energie – Esprit –
S.Oliver – Mexx – Sisley – Benetton – Coin

Own Brands Licensened Brands


Mainstream Bridge to Luxury
Excalibur Gant U.S.A. 1949
Flying Machine Energie’

Popular Premium
Ruf & Tuf USPA
New Port University Arrow
Izod

Joint Venture Brands Popular


Bridge to Luxury Cherokee
Tommy Hilfiger Mossimo

Premium
Lee
Wrangler

1.11. PRODUCTION PLANNING CONTROL


The production planning team need to coherently work on deciding whether the
capacity of the plant is enough to fulfil the order in the given lead time.

Usually the lead time for any particular order is 50 to 55 days, including all quality
checks inspection etc.

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The thumb rule for calculation of lead time:

 Pre- spinning procedures: 3 days

 Spinning: 15-20 days

 Warping and dyeing- 3 days

 For every weaving cycle- 3 to 4 days(weaving cycles depend on the order


qty and above mentioned factors)

 Usually for one order about 8 to 10 weaving cycles required

 Finishing processes- 1 day for each process, if not covered in the integrated
finish processing machine

 Inspection 2 to 3 days

 Washing 2 to 3 days

1.11.1. RAW MATERIAL


 Cotton

 100 kilo cotton = 88 kilo of yarn(for combed yarn) (75% yarn realisation)

 Loss: 1 % sizing, 2.3 to 2.5 % weaving, 1% warping (total 4 to 4.5%)

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SPINNING SECTION

2. SPINNING SECTION
“To produce quality yarns for world class shirtings with optimum cost within
stipulated time frame through continuous improvement.”
In Arvind open end spinning process is carried out. They have two separate lines of
manufacturing, for cotton and synthetic fibers. Each line has the same machines in
the same amount.

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2.1. LAYOUT OF THE SPINNING SECTION

Fig. 2.1 Spinning


2.2. RAW MATERIAL
section layout

2.2.1. STORAGE

 Bales are bought and stored into the cotton godown at the shirting section.

 Weight of the bale (comes in packages of 220 to 250 kg)

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 Storage Area: 1500-2000 sq. M

 Capacity: 4000-6000 bales

2.2.2. VARIETY OF COTTON FOR SHIRTING DIVISION

 Pakistan cotton

 Bani Brahma Maharashtra baby cotton

 American cotton

 Recycle cotton

 Gizza-76, 45 & 88(Egyptian)

 Australian ELS

 Cotton in Arvind Mills is mainly imported from Pakistan, Turkey, U.S.A.,


Australia, Egypt and China.

FLOW SECTION/FLOW OUTPUT FUNCTION


ORDE
R
1. BLOW ROOM Cotton tuft Opening, cleaning and blending

2. CARD Sliver Individualization of fibre, neps


removal and sliver preparation

3. PRE DEFRAME Breaker sliver Parallisation and improvement in

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sliver

4. UNILAP Comber lap To prepare lap sheet suitable for


combing

5. COMBER Combed sliver Short fibre removal,


individualization and sliver
preparation

6. POST DRAW Finisher sliver Parallisation and improvement in


FRAME sliver quality (by mass variation)

7. SPEED FRAME Roving bobbin To prepare a suitable roving for


ring frame by inserting twist

To produce yarn on smaller


RING FRAME Yarn package
8.

9. To prepare bigger package after


RANDOM Cleared yarn removing faults
WINDING

10. ASSEMBLY Assembled yarn To assemble the yarn


WINDING

11. TFO Double yarn To impart twist in assembled


yarn and produce bigger package

12. SINGEING Singed yarn To remove protruding fibres on


the surface

Table 1. Flow Order of


Spinning Section
2.3. TRUTZSCHLER BLOW ROOM PROCESSES
The basic purpose of blow room is to supply small, clean homogeneously blended
fibre tufts, if more than one variety of fibre is used to carding machine without
increasing fibre rupture, fibre neps, and broken seed particles and without
removing more good fibres.

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The above is achieved by the following processes in the blow room:

 Pre-opening

 Pre-cleaning

 Mixing or Blending

 Fine Opening

2-4% of the fibre is removed in the blow room section as waste. Feeding is done by
the lattice feeding system in the blow room. Humidity in the blow room should be
around R.H. – 65% to 75%.

VARIATION:
Standard intra lap variation = 1.0%.
 If the variation is more than 1.0% the lap shall be rejected.

Lap Parameters:
Count Weight Length
8s - 10s 20.0 kg 36 yards
10s – 12s 16.5 kg 30 yards
15s – 20s 20.5 kg 38 yards
24s 20.0 kg 40 yards

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The blow room is divided into two sections:

 Open end line ( for pure cotton fibre)

 Vertex line ( for manmade/ synthetic fibre)

Production capacity (at 85% efficiency)

 Weight of lap produced – 1700 kg/8hr/line


 Length of lap produced – 4000 yards/8hr/line

Total production capacity of the unit – 10 ton

Time taken to produce one lap – approx 4 – 6 min.

No. Of laps produced per hour – approx. 12

2.3.1. PRE-OPENING

Machine used:
 GBR-II
 Make- Trutzschler (Germany)
 400 kg/hour

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 The tuft size in the missing should be as small as possible. Normally it


should be less than 10 grams.
 Since this machine does not take care of long term blending, mixing should
be done properly to maintain the homogenous blending
 This machine is not meant to remove trash , hence the fibre loss should also
be less
 Trash removal in this machine will result in breaking the seeds, which is
very difficult to remove
 It is easier to remove the bigger trash than the smaller trash, therefore
enough care should be taken to avoid breaking the trash particles
 This machine is just to open the tufts into small sizes so that cleaning
becomes easier in the next machines.
 The fibre tuft size from this machine should be preferably around 100 to 200
milligrams.
 If tuft size is small, removing trash particles becomes easier, because of
large surface area

2.3.2. PRE-CLEANING

Machine used:

 Axiflow Cleaner

 Machine make: Trutzschler (Germany)

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 Model: 52-2502

 Pressure- 50-75 Bar

 Pre-cleaning should be gentle.

 Since removing finer trash particles is difficult, seeds and bigger trash
particles should not be broken.

 Finer trash particles require severe treatment in Fine openers. This


will lead to fibre damage and more nep generation.

 Therefore, pre-cleaning should be as gentle as possible and no


compromise on this. If pre-opening and pre-cleaning are done
properly, consistency in trash removal by fine openers is assured.

 Dust removal should be started in this machine. Enough care should be


taken remove dust in this process.

 The fibre treatment in this machine is very gentle because the fibres are not
gripped by the feed roller during beating.

 Fibre tufts treated by the pin beater when it is carried by air medium

 All heavy trash particles fall down before it is broken


 Cleaning efficiency of this machine is very high in the blow room line

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 Mostly all heavy seeds( full seeds) fall in this machine without any problem

 Around 50 Pascal suction pressure should be maintained in the waste


chamber for better cleaning efficiency

 Beater speed, air velocity through the machine, grid bar setting and gap
between grid bars will affect the cleaning efficiency

 Higher the cleaning efficiency, higher the good fibre loss, higher the nep
generation and higher the fibre rupture

 The optimum cleaning means maximum cleaning performance, minimum


loss of good fibres, a high degree of fibre preservation and minimum nep
generation.

2.4. BLENDING PROCESS

Fig.
2.2
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Cotton is passed from bales and then to apron. Apron moves cotton to blending
apron. Blending apron has sharp spikes the raise cotton until part of it is knocked
off by the roll. Some of the cotton stays on apron. The cotton knocked back by roll
and continues to chum and blend until picked up again by apron. Another roll strips
off cotton that was not knocked back by previous roll. Cotton falls on conveyor
belt and is carried to next process. It is necessary so as to obtain uniformity of fiber
quality.

MACHINE USED: BLENDOMAT -TRUETZSCHLER

Model BDT/019/2300
Bale Layout BOTH SIDES (2 ROWS)
No Of Bales 50-60
Weight Of Bales 110-167 kgs
Mode Of Bale Laying MANUAL
Material In Process COTTON WITH IMPURITIES

 It helps to maintain the homogeneity of the long term blending.

 Cotton is opened gently without recycling as it is done in manual bale


openers.

 With the latest automatic bale opening machines, the tuft size can be as
small as 50 to 100 grams without rupturing the fibres.

 The opening roller speed should be around 1500 to 1800 rpm.

 the depth of penetration of the opening should be as minimum as possible


for better quality.

 It is better to use this machine with one mixing or maximum two mixing
at the same.
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 If the production per feeding machine is less than 150 kgs, then four
mixings can be recommended.

2.5. OPENING PROCESS

Lint cotton falls on apron and passes between feeder rolls to beater cylinder.
The rapidly whirling beater blades take off small tufts of cotton, knock out trash,
and loosen up the mass. The two screen rolls are made of screen material and air is
sucked out of them by fan. This draws the cotton from beater and condenses it on
the surface of the screen rolls from which it is taken and passed on by the small
rolls.

Air suction through cotton takes out dirt and trash. Conveyor belt passes cotton
to another type of beater. From beater the
cotton passes to a conveyor and is carried
to hopper. The fiber is mixed and passed
to an opener, cylinders with protruding
fingers open up the limp and free the trash.
The kind and number of cylinders or
beaters, employed depend upon the type of
cotton that is being processed. As the
cotton is opened, trash falls through a
Fig.
series of grid bars. 2.3

MACHINE USED: GBR COTTON OPENER

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Model No GBR
Opening Speed 400 Kg/Hr
Tuft Size 50-100 gms
Opening Roller Speed 1500-1800 rpm
No. Of Mixings 2
No. Of Chambers 8
Power Consumption 4.95 W

2.6. CARDING PROCESS


Before the raw stock can be made into yarn, the remaining impurities must be
removed, the fibers must be disentangles, and they must be straightened. The
straightening process puts the fibers into somewhat parallel CARDING. The work
is done by carding machine. The lap is passed through a beater section and drawn o
rapidly revolving cylinder covered with very fine hooks or wire brushes slowly
moves concentrically above this cylinder. As the cylinder rotates, the cotton is
pulled by the cylinder through the small gap under the brushes; the teasing action
removes the remaining trashes, disentangles the fibers, and arranges them in a
relatively parallel manner in form of a thin web. This web is drawn through a
funnel shaped device that molds it into a round rope like mass called card sliver.
Card sliver produces carded yarns or carded cottons serviceable for inexpensive
cotton fabrics.

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Fig.
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STEPS: The lap from pucker unrolls and feed roll passes cotton licker in roll
(covered with saw toothed wire).The licker in roll passes fiber against cleaner bars
and gives it up to large cylinder which passes between the thousands of fine wires
on surface of cylinder and on flats. The
cotton follows large cylinder to doffer
cylinder, which remove lint from large
cylinder. The doffer comb vibrates against
doffer cylinder and takes lint off in a filmy
web that passes through condenser rolls,
coiler head, and then into can. The sliver may
be passed from one can to combing for
further removal of foreign matter and
parallelization of fiber or directly to drawing.
Fig.
MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS 2.5

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Make TRUTZSCHLER
Model DK 803
No Of Machines 14
Card Cleaning Efficiency 62-67%
Temperature 33.3 C
Humidity 56.5%
Pressure 325 Pascal
Production 80 Kgs/Hr
Front Delivery Speed 210.240 Min

2.7. DRAWING PROCESS


The combining of several fibers for the
drawing, or drafting, process eliminates
irregularities that would cause too much
variation if the slivers were pulling
through singly. The draw frame has
several pairs of rollers, each advanced set
of which revolves at a progressively faster
speed. This action pulls the staple
lengthwise over each other, thereby
producing longer and thinner slivers. After
several stages of drawing out, the

Fig. 2.6 condensed sliver is taken to the slubber,


where rollers similar to those in the drawing frame draw out the cotton further.
Here the slubbing is passed to the spindles, where it is given its first twist and is
then wound on bobbins.

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Fig. 2.7
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STEPS: Her six cans that were filled at cards feed each drawing from delivery.
The spoons are connected so that if any one of the six slivers from can should
break, the machine automatically stops. This prevents making uneven yarn later.
Each of four set of rolls runs successively faster than preceding set. The last set
runs approximately six times as the first set; consequently, sliver coming out is the
same size as each one of six going in. but is attenuated to six times the length per
minute. The sliver is neatly coiled again in roving can by coiler head. The sliver is
now much more uniform and fibers much more nearly parallel. The sliver is now
ready for roving frames.

2.8. COMBING PROCESS


When the fiber is intended for fine yarns, the sliver is put through an additional
straightening called COMBING. In this operation, fine-toothed combs continue
straightening the fibers until they are arranged with such a high degree of
parallelism that the short fibers, called noils, are combed out and completely
separated out from the longer fibers.

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Fig. 2.8
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Fig. 2.7

The combing process forms a comb sliver made of the longest fibers, which, in
turn, produces a smoother and more even yarn. This operation as much as 25%
of the original card sliver; thus almost one fourth of the raw cotton becomes
waste. The combing process, therefore, is identified with consumer goods of
better quality. Since long-staple yarns produce stronger, smoother, and more
serviceable fabrics, quality cotton goods carry labels indicating that they are
made from combed yarns or combed yarns.

MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS:

Make LAKSHMI
Model No LK69
Production Capacity 2.1 TONS/DAY
Speed 600 M

2.9. SPINNING PROCESS


The roving, on bobbins, is placed in the spinning frame, where it passes through
several sets of rollers running at successively higher rates of speed and is finally
drawn out to yarn of the size desired. Spinning machines are of two types; ring
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frame and mule frame. The ring frame


is faster process, but produces a
relatively coarse yarn. for very fine
yarns, such as worsted, the mule frame
is required because of its slow,
intermittent operation.

The ring frame, which is general in use,


is more suitable for the manufacture of
Fig. 2.9
cotton yarns in mass production. Its
hundreds of spindles, whirling thousands of revolutions per minute, and its
constant spinning action provide a fast operation. The ring spinning
frame completes the manufacture of yarn (1) by drawing out the roving (2) by
inserting twist, and (3) by winding the yarn on bobbins-all in one operation. The
bobbins of yarn are removed for such processing as may be desired; for example,
the yarn may be reeled into skeins for bleaching or may be wound on cheeses, or
spools, for ultimate weaving.

STEPS: The principle of spinning is same as that used in roving except that the
operation is more refined and a ring and traveler are used instead of the flyer. From
bobbin roving is fed
Fig.between
2.9 set of drafting rolls to draw strand down to its final
desired size. The spindle turns bobbin at a constant speed. The front set of rolls is
adjusted to deliver yarn at a speed sufficient to insert desired mount of twist as
strand moves along. The traveler glides freely around ring. The tension caused by
drag of traveler causes yarn to wind on bobbin at same rate of speed as it delivered
by rolls.

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Fig. 2.10
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MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS:

Make ZINSER
Model 351
Application Area STAPLE FIBRES UPTO
60mm
Count Range 167 – 4 TEX
Twist Range 100-3500 t/M
No Of Spindles 240-1680
Spindles Speed 25000 rpm
Ring Diameter 36-54m

2.10. OPEN END SPINNING

In open end spinning, the fibre supply is reduced, as far as possible, to individual
fibres, which are then carried forward on an air-stream as free fibres. This permits
internal stresses to be relaxed & gives rise to the term “free fibre spinning”. These
fibres are then progressively attached to the tail or “open end” of already formed
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rotating yarn. This enables twist to be imparted by rotation of the yarn end. Thus
the continuously formed yarn has
only to be withdrawn & taken up
on a cross-wound package.

2.10.1. EFFICIENCY IN
SPINNING
DEPARTMENT:
Fig. 2.11

 Open end: 85 to 90%

 Draw frame: 85 to 90%

 Auto doffing system: 88%

 Manual doffing system: 75%

 Comber: 93%

 Carding: 87%

2.10.2. PRODUCTION CAPACITY OF OPEN END SPINNING

 6700 kg of 10s yarn can be produced per machine per day.

 Machines work 24 hours a day, stopping only when faulty or for


maintenance.

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2.11. WINDING

Machine used: Auto Coner No. 1


In this stage the cops are winded into suitable cheeses and cones. This can be done
both manually and automatically. Before final packing and dispatching, proper
conditioning is done to the yarns. For this the Palletising machine is used. The
lustre is added by spraying very, mild dew drops every two hours. This final cone
weighs around 1.5 kilograms. Packing is done in gunny bags each carrying 40
cones and having an entire weight of 60 kilograms.

2.12. FREQUENTLY FACED PROBLEMS

Several defects in the yarn lead to a decrease in the production, and slows down
the manufacturing process, since these defects have to be remedied during
production. These defects are length variation, thick and thin, moiré and count
variation.

How these problems can be overcome?


Machines with quality stops (sensors) are used to overcome these defects.
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Safety precautions observed


 Fire extinguisher

 Medical centre with Ambulance

 Water hose pipe

 Boots for personal safety

 First aid box

WEAVING SECTION

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3. WEAVING SECTION

3.1. PROCESS FLOW IN THE WEAVING UNIT

The warp beams are received from Fig.


the 3.1
warping department, which is situated
inside the main plant. The transportation between the warping and weaving
department is accomplished by the means of warp beam trolleys and trucks. Once
the warp beams reach the loom shed, individual warp threads are needled through
the heald eyes manually (drawing), hence preparing a beam for loading on to a
loom. All the warp threads have to be threaded through the heald eyelet and its gap
in the reed prior to weaving. The warp threads are passed through eyelets on the
heald. Two operators sit facing each other, across the frame and the operator facing

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the reed passes a hooked needle through the heald eyes and drop wires. The needle
hook is then exposed to the second operator on the other side of the frame; who
selects the correct yarn in its proper order and puts it on the hook so that when the
needle is pulled, the yarn is threaded through the two loom parts. This process is
carried out in an area right behind the main loom shed.

The yarns are then


threaded through the
reed dents as
required by the reed
plan (denting). The

Fig. 3.2
reed is like a comb
and its purpose is to
control the
separation of the
Fig. 3.2
warp threads. Once the denting is complete, the beam is loaded as per the
requirement. Once the already loaded warp beam is exhausted, the new one can be
tied on to it by the means of manual knotting. After this the process of weaving can
be resumed in about 2 hours.

3.2. TYPES OF LOOMS

The Arvind Techno Park weaving unit at Santej houses 48 weaving looms, evenly
distributed between two makes that is 24 of each, Toyota E Shed and Picanol
Gammax. Both the looms can be bifurcated further on the basis of the number of
heald frames and/or colored wefts which they can accommodate. Listed below is
the information regarding the looms on the basis of their types and sub-types.

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No of Looms Type
24 Toyota E Shed (Airjet Looms)
24 PicanolGammax (Rapier Looms)

Loom Type Number of Number of Number of Heald


Looms Colored Weft Frames
Toyota E Shed 6 6 16
(Airjet Loom) 18 4 16
Picanol Gammax 8 8 24
(Rapier Loom) 16 6 20
Fig 3.3.

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3.2.1. Toyota E Shed (JAT 710)


As the production begins,
the pre winder is released
which is responsible for the
release of the filling yarn in the main
nozzle. On the other end, a catch cord
catches the weft. The yarn is detached
from the pre winder but the
end from the pre winder is
held at Fig. 3.4 Toyota E Shed (JAT
the machine end for the next
insertion. This is followed710)
by the beat-up motion, after which shedding and picking
take place for the next pick.

3.2.2. Picanol
Gammax
PicanolGamMax is a double
rapier loom. It is equipped
with a weft presenter. The
color and weave pattern are
controlled by a
microprocessor. A light weight
gripper carries the weft yarn
from one selvedge to another
using free flight system. The loom makes use ofFig.
electronic selvedge
3.5 Picanol system.
Gammax

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Listed below are the specifications of both the looms against the respective
parameters.

Toyota E Shed Gammax


Type of Loom Airjet Loom Double Rapier Loom
RPM(for the main shaft) 1,250 600
WIR 2,650 m/min 1160 m/min
Production 6500m/day 4000m/day
Efficiency(targeted) 87% 85%
Usage For easier designs For complex designs
Attachments Dobby Dobby
Machine Width 1900mm 2200 mm

TOYOTA E SHED

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PICANOL GAMMAX

WEAVING SECTION

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4. WEAVING PREPARATORY

Machines Used Muruta Mahavir 4.1.


Capacity 50 spindles 120 spindles
No. of Machines 10 3
4.1.

Re-Winding
The final cones from spinning are used to rewind the yarns on perfora ted bobbins
to form soft cheeses that will be sent for winding. According to number of
packages required for sectional warping. The Murata rewinding machines have a
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capacity of 50 spindles and they are 10 in total. 2-3 Local Mahavir machines can
hold 120 spindles at once. A constant length of yarn is wound on all packages.

4.2. Sectional warping

Fig. 4.1
The pattern for a fabric requires yarn of specific length, number and color. These
are wound on the warp beam in this section. A creel of capacity 720 cones holds
the yarns. These are drawn
through a leasing reed and
warping reed and the emerging
pattern wound on warping drum
and finally on warping beam.
There are 8 rows on the creel,
which holds the yarns according
Fig. 4.2
to the warp pattern.
For shirting, the pattern is placed alternately, i.e. 13572468 upwards. Each row is
used as layer for leasing. 7 lease are introduced in the beginning of every section

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and a 50% lease towards the end. The 7 lease help in sizing to separate layers in
order prevent sticking together. 50% leasing helps in drawing.
Maker VAMATEX BENNINGER
Fig. 4.2 Model No. VM 108 BEN-ERGOTRONIC
Drum Width 2500mm 2500mm
Maximum Warping Speed 800m/min 800m/min
Maximum Beaming Speed 150m/min 150m/min
 For precise control high speed sensor are provided.
4.2.1. Stop motion
Stop motion for Picanol Gammax Rapier looms

 Warp stop motion (castellated bar)


When the warp beam is taken to the loom for gaiting of warp, after
being threaded through drop pins, heald eye and reed dents, the drop
pins are threaded on to the slide bar. In case of a thread break, the
corresponding drop pin falls down the free movement of the slider and
slide bar is arrested thereby stopping the loom.
 Automatic pick finding
In case of a broken pick the machine stops and only the harness
frames are brought in motion –automatically – so as to free the broken
pick, without the reed touching the beat-up line.

Stop motion for Toyota E Shed JAT 710

 Electronic warp stop motion


 Leno-selvage & waste-selvage break stop motion
 Reflecting type weft detector (double feeler)
 LED signal lamp

Light Colour Implication

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Yellow light blinking Weft thread breakage


Yellow and red light blinking Shut down via emergency switch
Red light Mechanical fault
Red light blinking when machine is Electronic projectile detector or
working weft detector is switched off
Blue light blinking Warp thread breakage

4.3. Fabric designing


Arvind handles weaving consignments from most of the leading brands in the
country and its in-house brands. The Arvind Techno Park weaving unit produces
Shirting fabric in various contemporary designs such as solids, stripes and plaid.

The designing of the fabric for in-house brands is carried out by the Textile Design
Department. Henceforth, all the fabrics follow a common route namely, Pre
Production Planning.

4.4. Objectives of Pre-Production Planning

 Production Method: The selection of the production method is dictated by


the Pre Production Committee, keeping in mind the feasibility of the design
and efficiency and ability of the machines available.

 Determination of Details: Assessment of the fabric in question to establish


necessary constants of the weave plan such as Ends per Inch, Picks per Inch,
pegplan, drawing, warping section, weave etc.

4.5. Safety measures

 Ear plugs: Aloom shed is bound to have extremely high levels of noise due
to the constant beat-up motion, clanking of the heald shafts, shuttle (for

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shuttle looms) etc. Hence, it is absolutely mandatory for the operator to be


equipped with ear plugs to prevent permanent damage to his health.

 Shoes: To move around in the loom shed, it is absolutely imperative to cover


one’s feet thereby ensuring physical safety.

 Half sleeve clothes: Working with a loom involves a lot of activity near the
weft presenters warp thread, machine parts etc. Therefore it is advisable to
wear half sleeved clothes and avoid any sort of entanglements and accidents,
in extension.

 Cover moving machine parts: As far as possible, it is ensured that all the
moving machine parts are covered. Such as protection guard over take-up
rollers in case of a Picanol Gammax loom.

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4.6. Weaving Machine Details:

MACHINE NO. OF MAXIMUM PRODUCTION FEATURES


M/C COLOR PER DAY
WEFT
YARN

Toyota Air-jet 24 6 M/C – 6 6500 meter Working width 3400mm,


weaving loom 18 M/C – 4 6 and colours,
type positive electronic STAUBLI
dobby type 2861,
up to 16 shafts,
max RPM =800, 380V-50Hz,
1 reed.

PINACOL 24 4 400 metre Working width 3600mm,


rapier Looms 4 colours,
type max RPM = 550,
GamMax model positive electronic STAUBLI
dobby type 2861with pre-
equipped for batching motion
but without the batcher.

ECGI Electric 4 - - To suck the loose flying li


suction machine dust particles to prevent it
from sticking to the machines
and fabric.

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4.7. Product defects

 Broken pattern: Instances of wrong drawing of thread in a colour pattern or


wrong picking lead to non-continuity of a weave/design/pattern.
 Double end: Taking more ends in the heald eye leads to weaving of two or
more ends as one.
 Float: Improper shedding, slack heald shafts etc. lead to improper
interlacement of warp and weft threads over a certain area.
 Gout: Foreign matter (such as lint or waste) accidentally gets woven into the
fabric.
 Hole, Cut or Tear: These occur for a variety of reason and end up rupturing
the fabric.
 Missing ends: Despite being equipped with warp stop motions, this defect is
observed due to reasons such as dirty electro bars and operator’s
inattentiveness.

4.8. Problem faced

In weaving room, relative humidity, has a great impact on the performance of the
looms. The optimal level of temperature and
humidity over the machines, i.e. the warp, is
generally not reached, because the sources
of heat within the weaving machine disturb
the climatic condition. Numerous yarn
breaks are caused by the dust, lint and fiber
Fig. 4.3 Removal of extra
accumulation.

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PROCESSING SECTION

5. PROCESSING UNIT

5.1. OBJECTIVE

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The aim of preparatory wet processing is to treat the goods by standard procedures
so that they are brought to a state in which they can be dyed, printed and finished
without showing any fault on fabric.

5.2. GREY FABRIC INSPECTION

In Arvind mills Grey fabric inspection is done through the 4 point system.

Length of defect Demerit points


3 inches or less 1
More than 3 inches but not more than 6 inches 2
More than 6 inches but not more than 9 inches 3
More than 9 inches 4

Fig. 5.1

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Fig. 5.2

5.2.1. Fabric is classified as:

 Grade A: less than 3 defects per 100 m

 Grade B: 3 - 6 defects per 100 m

 Grade C: more than 6 defects per 100

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5.2.2. Acceptable tolerance:


 28 points per 100 sq. yd. for each
individual roll.
 20 points per 100 sq.yd for average
of rolls inspected.
 More defects are found in dobby
weave, heavy varieties, etc
Fig. 5.3
 If more than 4 points are detected/ 100m of fabric then it is reported to the
weaving section and sent further for mending.
 8 machines are used for initial checking but 5 machines are used for
rechecking.
 After initial checking, the fabric is sent to the storage area.

OTHER INFORMATION

There are 8 inspection machines and total 3500 metre of fabric is inspected on one
machine in one day. That means total 28 thousand of fabric is inspected in one day.
Also efficiency of inspection system is 90%.

5.3. MENDING
The fabric is bought from the storage area for mending. After mending, the fabric
is sent back to the storage area and then sent for re-checking. After mending of the
fabric the fabric is sent forbatching. There are 3 mending machines in the industry.

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5.4. BATCHING
After mending, fabric is sewn end to
end and then batched. Spec sheets are
sent to the batching in charge, wherein
it is mentioned how many meters of
what fabric needs to be rolled together
in one package. After batching, the
fabric is sent for singeing.
Fig. 5.4

5.5. SINGEING
Singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface
by burning off projecting fibres, yarn ends, and fuzz. This is accomplished by
passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed
sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the
yarn or fabric.

Fig. 5.5 Singeing


 Singeing machine used: OSTHOFF-SENGE Model – BZ/3.

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 CNG is used for burning the protruding fibres, yarn ends and fuzz.

 Flames are applied perpendicular to the fabric.

 Pressure gauge in the machine controls the pressure.

 Maximum Speed of the machine is 100 m/min.

 In a shift i.e. of 8 hours, 30,000m of fabric is singed.

 The efficiency of the machine is 85%.

 A roller with brushes removes the fibres on selvedge and small protruding
fibres. A suction pump takes these fibres and pumps them into an air bag.
This bag needs to be changed every week.

 There are two burners, the machine operates at 10000c and works at 1 m/s.

 Special rubberized rollers are used for quenching. Fabric takes 4 seconds to
traverse from burners to these quenching rollers. Till this time the
temperature of the fabric lowers down to 700 C. These rollers further cool
the cellulosic fibre.

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Arvind mills Ltd uses Gas singeing due to following reasons:


 Efficient singeing
 No local cooling problems
 No hardness is produced on fabric surface.

5.5.1. STEPS INVOLVED IN SINGEING


 The fabric passes through a tension unit with guide rollers.
 Then fabric passes through pre-brushing unit which removes dirt/dust, lint
and loose fibres from the fabric.
 After pre-brushing, the fabric enters into the singeing chamber.
 Adjustable water-cooled rollers are used to obtain different fabric/flame
positions, which permit desired degree of singeing effect.
 A Carburettor or air/gas mixer allows automatic mixing of gas with air to
control the intensity of the singeing flame.
 After passing over the flames, the fabric passes through (optional) steam
quenching unit.

5.6. DESIZING

Desizing is done for the fabrics made from cotton or blends, the warp threads are
coated with an adhesive substance known as 'size‘ to prevent the threads breaking
during weaving. Although many different compounds have been used to size
fabrics, starch and its derivatives have been the most common sizing agent. After
weaving, the size must be removed again in order to prepare the fabric for dyeing
and finishing.

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This process (desizing) must be carried out by treating the fabric with chemicals
such as acids, alkali or oxidising agents. However starch breaking enzymes
(amylases) are preferred for desizing due to their high efficiency and specific
action. Amylases bring about complete removal of the size without any harmful
effects on the fabric. Another benefit of enzymes compared to strong chemicals
mentioned above is that enzymes are environment friendly.
The unit visited took enzymatic desizing into practice and used the same m/c as for
singeing.

Fig 5.6 desizing

5.6.1. STEPS INVOLVED

 Wetting out with a suitable wetting agent.

 Steeping the temperature for affecting the swelling and softening of the size
paste.
 Rinsing thoroughly in water.

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5.6.2. CHEMICALS USED

 DMCP (surfactant agent) - [Deoxycytidine monophosphate]

 Pulkozyme

 MFB (wetting agent)

The fabric is desized, and then washed.


 Temperature = 550c

 Efficiency of the machine = 85%

 Usage of Calcium and Magnesium causes problems.

 Chelating agent is used which forms a complex with the size present in the
fabric, mixes in water and gets drained off.

 This wet fabric is wound on batching rollers.

 These rollers are rotated for 8 hours so that the enzyme can react with the
size present on the fabric.

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5.6.3. FEATURES:

 An exhaust fan removes fluffs, fumes, dust collected by brush & exits
through a ventilation hood.
 Mixture of C.N.G. (3O to 35 %) and air (65 to 70 %) is supplied at constant
pressure.
 Double burner flame system which automatically controls the flame height,
width and temperature.
 Cool water is supplied to make cool the burner.
 Water & Chemicals for desizing is supplied to quenching chamber from
tanks through pipes.

5.6.4. FAULTS

 There is a chance of scorching if flame height is not maintained properly.

 Stopping of machine may cause heat bars on the fabric.

 Selvedge may burn due to extra hairiness.

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5.7. WASHING

Fig. 5.7
 Machine used: INJECTA MACHINE, BENNINGER (GERMANY)
 Efficiency- 85-87%

5.7.1. PROCESS

 The fabric is dipped in water for pre-wetting at 600C (forms slurry).


 Then the fabric is passed through steam (pulpy).
 Washing with hot water at 900C through jet.
 Then the fabric is washed again at 950C.
 Washing speed for piece dyed and white fabric is 50 m/min.
 Washing speed for yarn dyed fabric is 80 m/min

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5.8. MERCERISING

Mercerising can be done at different stages during the pre-treatment process. This
could be after Desizing or after Scouring or after Bleaching. When done after
desize-washing, it induces maximum luster onto the fabric. However,
contamination of dye can occur, which reduces life of the caustic lye. High degree
of whiteness can be achieved if the bleaching process is done after mercerisation.
Mercerisation after scouring and bleaching prevents contamination of caustic dye
but effects the whiteness and absorbency. Mercerising can be done either on wet
fabric with a dye concentration controller or on dry fabrics.
Cold Mercerising is strictly done below 20 degree C as there are few chances of
hydrolization of color.

Fig. 5.8

250 gpl (grams per litre) caustic soda is applied and kept for 45 sec. Liquid
ammonia (NH3) is used in mercerization (NH3 becomes liquid at -33degree
Celsius) Liquid ammonia treatment is a highly effective and well controlled
alternative to caustic soda mercerisation, but high capital cost of the necessary
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equipment for recovery and reuse of the ammonia as well as the application steps
limits the adoption of this sophisticated approach more widely. The effect of liquid
ammonia treatment on the dyeing of the cotton depends on the ammonia is
removed. As with mercerising treated yarns and fabrics appear more deeply dyed
than untreated material having the same amount of the dye present. There are total
3 machines for mercerization.

5.8.1. PURPOSE BEHIND MERCERIZING

Mercerising enhances –

 Dimensional stability
 Improves strength
 Absorbency
 Dye uptake and lustre,
 Parallelisation of fibres
 Sphering of fibres.

5.8.2. MACHINES USED

 Kyoto
 Clip mercerizer
 High speed mercerization machine
 72 meters long
 Speed 80 m/min

 Benninger
 Computerized control
 Trough capacity(for caustic)- 1100 liters

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 After 1 hour and 45 minutes 250 liters of caustic is drained off


automatically to change the concentration of the liquor (concentration
due to impurities).

5.8.3. Cold mercerization

In Arvind cold mercerization is preferred and taken into practice. Cold


mercerization dimensionally stabilizes warp and weft. It changes cellulose 1 to
cellulose 2. The fabric is washed off with low gel caustic (50 – 80 gpl) and washed
with hot water at 900C and then washed with the cold water. Speed of the machine
is maintained at 30-50 m/min and the efficiency of the machine is 90%.

5.9. BLEACHING

(i) Oxidative bleaching:


Generally oxidative bleaching is carried out using sodium hypochlorite
(NaOCl) or hydrogen peroxide. Natural fibres like cotton are bleached
with oxidative methods.

(ii) Reductive bleaching:


Reductive method of bleaching is done with sodium hydrosulphite, a
powerful reducing agent. Fibers like polyamide, Polyacrylics and
Polyacetates can be bleached using reductive bleaching technology.
5.9.1. MACHINE USED

1. BENNINGER (GERMANY)

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 No. of machines – 1
 Speed – 58 m / min
 Trough capacity – 116 litres of liquor
 Liquor contains -
 Caustic

 Peroxide

 Wetting agent

 Stabilizer

Fig. 5.9 Beinninger CBR

Wetting of fabric

Bleaching

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Washing with acetic acid

Number of
Machine name
machines
Batching machine 2
Singeing and desizing machine 1
Injecta washer 1
Continuous bleaching range 1
Mercerizing machine 3
Jumbo jigger 2
Drying machine 1
Soaping machine 1

Table 5: Types and number of machines in the preparatory unit

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DYEING SECTION

6. DYEING UNIT
6.1. DYEING

Dyeing is the process which provides uniform single colouration throughout the
surface of the textile material. Dyeing can be classified into various categories on
the basis of parameters such as textile material being dyed and whether batched or
continuous. Given below is a description of all the dyeing processes which were
going on in the unit during the visit.

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6.2. YARN DYEING


Dyeing, if done after the fiber has been spun into grey yarn, is described as yarn
dyeing. Fabric made of dyed yarns is called yarn dyed fabric.
Yarn dyed fabrics are usually deeper and richer in color. Yarn dyed fabrics intended
for laundering must be quite colorfast, or bleeding could occur. The primary reason
for dyeing in
the yarn form is
to create
interesting
checks, stripes,
and plaids with
different –
colored yarns in
the weaving
process.
Fig. 6.1

 Method employed: Package dyeing under high temperature and high


pressure

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 Machine used: THEN

 Number of machines: 87

 Capacity: 18 tons/day

Fig. 6.2
6.3. PACKAGE DYEING
MACHINES

In these enclosed machines where dyeing under pressure can take place, the dye-
liquor is circulated through wound packages of yarn until the dye is evenly
exhausted.
The yarn is wound onto perforated tubes or springs, and the packages are classified
according to count and formed are then mounted onto a perforated rod (spindle) or
tube. After loading, the carrier is dropped into a seating in the dyeing tank by the
means of overhead crane, through which the dye-liquor is circulated. The
dye-liquor is pumped through the packages in either direction, according to
need.
In dyeing warp yarns, a single perforated cylinder of the yarns fits into the seating
of the dye tank.

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Fig. 6.3

Packages that are too loosely wound may collapse during the dyeing process.
However, packages that are too tightly wound may interfere with the circulation of
the dye-liquor. In any case, the packages must be wound as uniformly as possible.

6.4. AUTOLAB-DISPENSER

There is a stock of primary dye solutions that can be mixed in specific proportions
to get any shade. This is a computerized process and requires little intervention
manually.
To prepare dye solutions of accurate and specific concentration, this is helpful. A
beaker is placed in which some quantity of water is filled. The range of dye that
can be added is shown on the screen. Then it is taken and agitated for homogenous
mixing. The beaker is replaced and desired concentration entered in the system.
Water is filled to achieve that concentration.

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Yarn is weighed and tagged to be put into the solution for dyeing. Then the yarn or
the fabric swatch is treated with dye for required amount of temperature and time.
The machines which are used are:

Turbomat: its capacity is minimum 70gms.

Spectra dye: its capacity is 7. 5gms

Infrared colour: its capacity is 20gms

Fig. 6.4

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6.5. PARTS OF DYEING MACHINE

The dyeing machine consists of:

Microprocessor
It depends on light, medium, dark, reactive dyes. All details are feeded onto the
processor and locked, as per the requirement one program is used.

Closing Tank
In this chemicals are added as per the approved recipe and a tube passes
from this tank to main tank through which dye liquor passes through.

Main tank
It’s the main tank in which carrier is been put.

 First they put the carriage in the main tank in which 900 liters of
water is filled.
 Then chemical is put into chamber which later goes to closing tank.
 Programming done according to chemicals, water, temperature.
 Water coming out from bottom of spindle and spreads out.
 There are mainly two stages: in–out and out-in
 7-8 hrs is taken for dyeing 1 carrier.
 Capacity is 18 tons/day

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Fig. 6.5 Dummy Carriers

Dummy Carriers
In same vessel we can have different capacity. There are carriers known as dummy
carriers. These carriers consist of dummy spindles. Dummy spindles are plain
rod which doesn’t have holes in them so that when dyeing process takes
place water is not wasted in and out through these spindles. So these rods
block the movement of water in and out through the spindle.

6.6. R.F. DRYER (RADIO FREQUENCY DRYER)


After dyeing process almost double amount of water is present inside the
package. Then water comes down due to gravity. For the remnant dyeing liquor, a
radio frequency dryer is put to use.
In this dryer machine electrodes are present, which create an electromagnetic field.
H+ and O- polar molecules are produced. They start vibrating and create
energy. Therefore H+ an O- get split. In this temperature has to
be controlled which is 80˚C and also height between these electrodes and
yarns have to be maintained.

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It basically involves placement of dyed packages on a conveyer belt which moves


at a speed of 9.2 m/hour. The excess dyeing liquor is removed through the process
mentioned above.
After the drying process, the yarn packages are winded in a cone, like 2 yarn
packages are
winded in one cone to check forthe shade variation among different yarn packages.

TYPES OF DEFECTS
1. Shade matching
2. Shade levelling

6.7. CARRIERS
There are around 200 carriers available and minimum being 10 spindles.
Maximum of 25 carriers can be put on a machine with at least 10 spindles on 1
carrier. Their height is around 180cm.

6.7.1. TYPES OF CARRIERS

SPRING

 1.2 kg packages.
 These carriers are compressed by 12-15%.
 The weight of these carriers is 160-168 grams.

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PLASTIC TUBE

 945 g packages
 The weight of these carriers is 135-140 grams.

Carriers

AFTER TREATMENT:
Hot wash: 80˚C for 10 minutes.
Soaping chemical: wash of rd (0.5gpl upto 0.2% depth)
Tan: Metaxiladw (0.7gpl 0.21 to 0.5%)

6.8. FABRIC DYEING

6.8.1. JET DYEING

This is the most modern machine used for the dyeing of polyester using disperse
dyes. In this machine the cloth is dyed in rope form which is the main disadvantage
of the machine.

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In this machine, the dye tank contains disperse dye, dispersing agent, leveling
agent and acetic acid. The solution is filled up in the dye tank and it reaches the
heat exchanger where the solution will be heated which then passed on to the
centrifugal pump and then to the filter chamber. Therefore, this machine made use
of HTHP dyeing method.
The solution is filtered and reaches a tubular chamber. Here the material to be dyed
will be loaded and the winch is rotated, so that the material is also rotated. Again
the dye liquor reaches the heat exchanger and the operation is repeated for 20 to 30
minutes at 135˚C. Then the dye bath is cooled down, after the material is taken out.
Metering wheel is also fixed on winch by external electronic unit. Its purpose is to
record the speed of the fabric. The thermometer, pressure gauge is also fixed in the
side of the machine to note the temperature and pressure under working.
However, in the plant visited, the jet dyeing machine was not put to use due to the
fact that it dyes the fabric in rope form, leaving it crinkled and its extremely low
capacity of 1000m/batch.

6.8.2. ADVANTAGES OF JET DYEING MACHINE

 Dyeing time is short compared to beam dyeing.

 Production is high compared to beam dyeing machine.

6.8.3. DISADVANTAGES JET DYEING MACHINE

 Cloth is dyed in rope form

 Risk of entanglement

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 Chance for crease formation

6.9. CONTINUOUS DYEING

In continuous dyeing, there is a sequence of machinery chambers where-in the well


prepared textile material is impregnated with the dye solution in the first section
and then passed into the fixation chamber and/ or any other chemical bath used for
fixation. Then the material is washed off and finally dried to complete the process.
Continuous dyeing is ideal and economical when a large amount of textile must be
dyed to the same shade.

 Machine used: Ben Dry


 Number of machines: 1
 Dye used: Reactive dye > VAT dye (in order of preference)

6.9.1. PROCESS

After a series of various rollers, the grey fabric is passed through a trough of dye
stuff. After this comes in picture the process of chemical fixation. After being
padded with sodium silicate (in an alkaline medium i.e. soda ash), the fabric is
passed through steam chambers for chemical fixation. Further it is padded with
CH3COOH to neutralize the soda ash and sodium silicate. Next step involves
passing the fabric through an Infra-Red heater for mechanical fixation of the dye
and drying up the fabric.

6.9.2. SHADE MANAGEMENT

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Once a sample batch is developed, the following method is applied to control


center to selvedge variation and shade variation between rolls.

Center to selvedge variation check

This process takes care of shade variation within the roll. The fabric is divided into
4 sections width wise as shown below:

1 2 3 4

Further these pieces are cut and rearranged as shown below:

3 1 4 2

Once the pieces are arranged as shown in the diagram, if there is any center to
selvedge shade variation, it becomes evident instantly. Remedial measures are
taken immediately.

PROBLEM

The jet dyeing machine was left inutile due to low ROI and hence, in extension,
poor productivity.

SOLUTION

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It was resolved by putting the same machine to use for smaller consignments
which required crinkle effect. It is now also used for desizing.

QUALITY ASSURANCE

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7. QUALITY ASSURANCE
7.1. TRADITIONAL VIEW

Traditionally quality assurance was looked as if a post-mortem report where in the


yarn and the fabric was checked for the quality and standards as per required by the
customer. A proper policing was kept on what has been done and what is to be
done.
Modern view:
In the modern day quality assurance has a wider scope and it includes activities
like process ownership and calibration where in the department ownership is given
to a person and it becomes his/ her duty to deal with it in the most efficient manner.
QA Lab is accredited by Marks & Spencers, Levi’s, L L Bean, Next, Gap Inc,
Invista (For Lycra Testing), Liz Claiborne (Under Process)

Fig 7.3

Fig 7.2
Fig 7.1 OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE.
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7.2. QUALITY ASSURANCE LABS

7.2.1. COTTON LABORATORY:


Cotton is held for the 70% cost of the fabric cost only and hence becomes a major
factor which if controlled will add maximum contribution to the strength of Arvind
mills.
The coefficient of variance is calculated for the width, diameter and hairiness of
the fibre. The machine used for this purpose is USTER TESTER 5.the fibre is
passed at a speed of 400m/min and the variance is hence calculated. The variance
is calculated against international or the preset Arvind standards.
The length, weight and the exact count of the fibre is also calculated and the
CASCADE machine is used for this purpose which ensured the right thing at the
right time as per customer demands.

7.2.2. PHYSICAL TESTING LABORATORY

This testing happens at the yarn manufacturing stage and the yarn is tested for its
1. Length
2. Elongation
3. Elasticity
The yarn should be tested in a way so as to know whether the yarn can take all the
loadings or not and if yes to what extent can it take.
This helps in deciding what processes the yarn can face and what effects cab be
deduced.

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Single yarn strength and its elongations is measured using the USTER
TENSORPAID 3 machine which is the most trusted name in the field and comes
from Switzerland.
INSTRON 4465 is used to check the tensile strength of the fibre and the tear
strength is also calculated in grams.
For all the above written testing’s the standard lab conditions are made at a
temperature of 60+/-
2 F and the humidity level is maintained at 65%+/-2%
Factors like stretchablilty skew and shrinkage are tested after marking is done
followed by three washings of the fabric; the fabric is tonned to the environment
after keeping it in the standard environment.

7.2.3. CHEMICAL TESTING LABORATORY:

In the chemical laboratory they


check all the fuels, dyes, and all the
chemicals that are used in the
production process. They even
check the denim if it is washed
with bleach how much it fades the
colour. They try different process
like how the denim would react in
different conditions like in case of Fig. 7.4
perspiration, salt water, normal water, in extreme temperature.

7.2.4. COLOUR QUEST LABORATORY:

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In the colour quest they try to find out the different shades and they see to it that
after the washing and drying process does the shade match the requirement of the
customer or not.

7.2.5. CALIBRATION LABORATORY:

Calibration is a specialized measurement process where in one compares test and


measuring instruments/ equipments of unknown status to well defined standards of
greater accuracy in order to detect/eliminate error by adjustments & report any
variation in accuracy capability.

7.2.6. CALIBRATION ACTIVITY

Calibration through in – house facility 93%


Calibration through out - side agencies 7%

7.2.7. CALIBRATION FACILITY AT CALIBRATION LABORATORY

Parameters and Instruments used for its calibration

Temperature
Mercury thermometer, temperature indicator & controllers, temperature switches,
temperature gauges, temperature transmitters.

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Pressure
Pressure gauge, vacuum gauge, pressure transmitter, pressure switch.

Mass
Analytical weighing balance AC/OC voltage, AC/DC current, single phase power,
frequency, resistance capacitance, conductance, logic pulses, logic levels.
Digital& analogue amateur, millimeters, panel meters, frequency meters.

Dimensional
Measure tape, steel scale, Vernier capture, micro meter, dial gauge.

Gas lab instruments


Lab instruments used for quality conformance tests & physical testing lab &
chemical testing lab.

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Fig. 7.5

7.3. HVI SPECTRUM (High Volume Instrument) –


ZELLWEGER USTER

This is a prime instrument, which fulfills all the requirements and measures the
different parameters for cotton to be used in production. The different criteria,
which it detects, are as follows:

 length of the fiber

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 uniformity in the length

 strength of the fiber

 elongation or elastic behavior of the fiber Fig. 7.6

 short fiber length (no. of fibers lesser than ½”)

 Rd: the color i.e. the degree of yellowness or whiteness of the fibers.

 the percentage of coarseness and fineness of the fiber i.e. the


micronaire measurement.

Around 150-200 gms of fibers are taken for testing.

7.4. FIBRO SAMPLER- HVI 900

This is a semi-operated machine and measures all parameters except color. A comb
is used to take out ‘fiber beard’, which is used to feed the machine.

7.5. USTER MDTA 3

This is used to test impurities in cotton. 10-100 g of fiber is taken and the output
includes clean cotton, micro dust and major impurities. The clean cotton serves as
a standard for testing efficiency of carded sliver.

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7.6. YARN FAULT-TESTING

7.6.1. CLASSIMAT:
This instrument tests faults in the yarn. 100 km of yarn can be tested at once. The
thick and thin, long and short areas of the yarn are detected and categorized
according to the severity. In a graph, A1, B1, C1…denotes the length of the fault,
while A1, A2, A3…denotes the mass of the yarn which in turn is a measure of
thickness. If the resultant value falls under E, it is a long and thick area. F and G of
the graph show thin and long areas.

7.6.2. USTER TENSOJET:


This is a single yarn strength-testing instrument. It runs at a speed of 400 m per
min. 500 readings are taken each out of 10 packages of one sample. It gives the
values in unit of force/ count = g/tex. Elongation of the yarn is also measured.
7.6.3. USTER UNEVENESS TESTER:
This tests and reads thick places (+50%), thin places (-50%) and neps (200%). At a
speed of 400m/min, yarn from 10 packages is tested. The Unevenness % and
hairiness as a sum of total hair lengths are obtained At stages of ring winding,
roving, cone winding etc tests are conducted many times a week to ensure
consistency. This is in-process checking.

7.6.4. TWIST TESTER:


According to the required specifications twist of the yarn is measured in this which
involves different methods for single, doubled and open end yarn.

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Fig. 7.7
7.6.5. AFIS (ADVANCED FIBER INFORMATION SYSTEM):
An in process testing system for detecting neps, length, micronaire till roving
stage.

7.6.6. WRAP BLOCK:


It is used to measure the hank of the feeding material to decide the setting for the
next process

7.6.7. YARN BOARD WINDER:


Is done when required. Here, the yarn is wound on black or white board according
to its own color and analyzed subjectively for slubs.

7.6.8. ELECTRONIC LEA STRENGTH TESTER:


The lea is subjected to pulling force by means of clamps and breaking strength is
tested. The value obtained is CSP (count strength product).

7.6.9. HAIRINESS TESTER:


On the basis of optical principle, the hairiness is measured as the number of hairs
per unit length
for 24 mm.
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7.7. WRINKLE TESTER:

To determine a fabric's ability to recover after


wrinkling under a predetermined load for a set period
of time. Set of 3-D plastic replicas are available to
grade fabrics.
Fig. 7.8

7.8. CROCKMETER
To determine the color fastness of dyed or printed
textiles or leather, this test is used for the
determination of color fastness against rubbing,
either under dry or under wet conditions.

Fig. 7.9

7.9. Pilling Resistance Tester


Determines the resistance to the formation of pills and other related surface
changes of textile fabrics using the random tumble pilling tester.

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 Specimens are laundered 3 times and then


conditioned in atmospheric conditions for
textiles
 The edges of 3 4”x4” squares cut on the
bias are sealed with glue and allowed to
dry
 The 3 specimens are placed in the pilling
chamber along with 25mg of gray-dyed
cotton fiber and tumbled for 30 minutes
 The specimens are evaluated in a viewing
apparatus against photographic standards
(ASTM ADJD 3512) or in house fabric
Fig. standards.
7.10

7.10. TEARING TESTER

Elmendorf Tearing Tester. To determine the ballistic


tearing strength of textiles, paper or board. Range
from 8000 to 64000 Millinewtons with suitable
pendulum. Pendulums not included.

Fig.
7.11
Fig. 7.8
7.11. ABRASION AND PILLING TESTER

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Fig.
7.12
To determine the abrasion and pilling resistance of all kinds of textile structures.
Samples are rubbed against known abradents at low pressures and in continuously

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changing directions and the amount of abrasion or pilling is compared against


standard parameters.

Fig. 7.9

ENVIRONMENTAL
FACTORS

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8. ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS AT ARVIND

 Optimizing usage of cotton, energy, chemicals & water.

 Adopting preventive strategies to reduce the generation of effluents, waste &


air emissions.

 Maintaining a safe working environment.

 Increasing the green cover.

 Training employees on environmental issues

8.1. AIR POLLUTION CONTROL

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Arvind ltd. has switched from liquid fuel to natural gas for all their heating &
steam requirements in order to avoid air pollution.

8.2. WATER TREATMENT

Arvind ltd. also possess chemical, biological treatment facilities to treat 1000m/day
of effluents to meet the pollution control board norms.

8.3. ACCREDITATIONS

 “Global organic textile standards”, control union certifications, the


Netherlands, for processing of fibres from certified organic agriculture.
 ISO-17025 NABL – national accreditation board for laboratories, Delhi,
India, for chemical & mechanical disciplines of testing.
 Premier accreditation scheme by marks & Spencer, test methods and
conditions set forth, laboratory, shirting division business, the Arvind mills
ltd.
 Liz claiborne int’l ltd., testing audit performance, laboratory, shirting
business division, the Arvind mills ltd.
 “SKAL international standards for sustainable textile production”
 Labs certified by DuPont

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 ISO14000: provides environment management standards to help


organisations minimise their negative impact on the environment.

8.4. ACCREDITED BY

 MARKS & SPENCERS


 LEVIS
 TOMMY HILFIGER
 RALPH LAUREN
 NEXT
 DUPONT
 DEBENHAMS

9. LEARNINGS

Arvind is the best platform to learn how quality and quantity is maintained at the
same time. That’s the reason we joined the mill for our first internship. We learn a
lot in our 15 days internship.

Ring dying process in denim was the best part of our learning as it was the process
of great curiosity. Our mentor told and explain the whole process and clarified on
the the process. Also we saw the only machine in Asia that is “cone to beam
converter”. It converts the cone to beam and vice-versa. So we can use this
machine with every machine and can produce output in any type of format.

Also we came to know about some new finishing techniques like arrow finish
which is given to provide softness to fabric. We got the opportunity to see the latest

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technology machines in the mill like drawing and carding machines which is able
to reduce the manpower upto 8 persons per machine.

Our whole internship was full of learning and it teaches us how quality is
preserved with quantity.

We got chance to an industry full of dedicated workers.

10. ARVIND LIMITED – REVIEW NOTE 2014-15


Agenda:
 Financial Performance: Consolidated

 Financial Performance: Standalone

 Business Analysis

Financial Performance: Q4 2014-15


Consolidated revenue growth of 8% and PAT growth of 3%

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Business Highlights: Q4 2014-15


Moderate top-line growth with moderated bottom-line due to higher tax

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Key Highlights:

Revenue growth of 8% achieved due to


 17% top-line growth in Brands & Retail
 16% top-line growth in Garments

PBT growth of 20%, PAT growth 3% over Q4 FY14


 Despite healthy growth in PBT for the year, the PAT growth was muted due
to higher tax

Exceptional items:
 Rs. 26 crores for retrenchment of 960 workers
 Rs. 22 crores for settlement of legal dispute of USPA brand with Polo Ralph
Lauren

Financial Performance: FY 2014-15


Revenue growth of 14% and PAT growth of 7%

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Business Highlights: FY 2014-15


Strong top-line & bottom-line growth
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Key Highlights

Revenue growth of 14% achieved due to


 23% top-line growth of Brands & Retail
 6% top-line growth of Textiles

EBIDTA margin % slightly lower
 Higher weightage of Brand & Retail Business
 Lower textile margin

PBT growth of 18% : PAT growth of 7%


 PAT growth lower at 7% due to higher tax

Exceptional items :
 Rs.29 crores for retrenchment of 1012 workers
 Rs. 22 crores for settlement of legal dispute of USPA brand with Polo Ralph
Lauren
Margin moderated in both key business segments in FY
2014-15
Quarterly margins lower than LY due to Forex loss and Mega Mart Performance
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EBIDTA margin of textile business lower due losses incurred in two garments
manufacturing plants which commenced commercial production in Q4.

Textiles Business: Revenue Mix in FY2014-15


Textile revenue grew by 6%

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 Led by 8% growth
Woven fabrics

 6% growth in garments

 2% growth in Denim

 10% growth on a
smaller base for the
voiles business

Volume growth: Woven volume growth at 8%:


Denim at 1%

Key Parameters: FY2014-15 – Textiles

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11. ANNEXURES
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References:

 Images given by Mr Subhanish Malhotra, Senior H.R. Manager, Arvind Limited,


Santej.
 Facts and other data provided by different Department Supervisors: Mr.Kabir
Sarosh (Processing Department Supervisor) and Mr. Rajesh Tiwari (Weaving
Department Supervisor).
 www.arvindmills.com
 http://www.arvindmills.com/pdf/shareholding/2013/Review%20Note
%20Q4%2012-13.pdf
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arvind_Mills

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