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OYSTER
ER ST
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EW • N E
EWW WAYS W
WITH
I TH SATS
SATSUM
UMAS
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Louisiana
Authentic Cajun & Creole Cuisine
ANNUAL
to
I S S U E
0 74808 01055 4
DISPLAY UNTIL OCTOBER 15, 2019 jambalaya
contents
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2019 | VOLUME 22, ISSUE 5
3 louisianacookin.com
377 Chefs to Watch 2019
entrées
the main course 23
Six chefs who are changing the way we eat,
one dish at a time
by Samantha Moats
lagniappe
77 a little something extra
757 Sweets
Gooey Goodness
79 Local Pantry
Grape Vines and Good Times
by Samantha Moats
5 louisianacookin.com
September/October 2019 Volume 22, Issue 5
EDITORIAL
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Daniel Schumacher
Caitlin Watzke
MANAGING EDITOR GROUP CREATIVE DIRECTOR
ASSISTANT EDITOR Samantha Moats Deanna Rippy Gardner
RECIPE EDITOR Fran Jensen ART DIRECTOR Nancy Heard
SENIOR COPY EDITOR Rhonda Lee Lother
COPY EDITOR Meg Lundberg ST YLISTS
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Caroline Blum, Courtni Bodiford,
John D. Folse, Crystal Pavlas Sidney Bragiel, Lucy Finney, Mary Beth Jones,
Beth K. Seeley, Melissa Smith
CREATIVE DIRECTOR/PHOTOGRAPHY
Mac Jamieson TEST KITCHEN DIRECTOR Irene Yeh
SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER ASSISTANT TEST KITCHEN DIRECTOR Melissa Gray
John O’Hagan FOOD ST YLISTS/RECIPE DEVELOPERS
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Laura Crandall, Kathleen Kanen,
Jim Bathie, William Dickey, Nicole Du Bois, Tricia Manzanero, Vanessa Rocchio,
Elizabeth Stringer
Stephanie Welbourne Steele
ASSISTANT FOOD ST YLIST/RECIPE DEVELOPER
Anita Simpson Spain
SENIOR DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST
Delisa McDaniel
CHEFS TO WATCH ADVISORY BOARD
DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST Clark Densmore
Kristen Essig, Holly Goetting, Jeffrey Hansell,
Colt Patin, Nathan Richard
FOUNDERS Romney K. and Charley Richard
D I G I TA L M E D I A A D M I N I S T R AT I V E
MARKETING DIRECTOR Tricia Wagner Williams HUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR
MARKETING COORDINATOR Vicky Lewis Judy Brown Lazenby
SENIOR ONLINE EDITOR Courtney duQuesnay IT DIRECTOR Matthew Scott Holt
DIGITAL DESIGNER Stephanie Lambert DEALER PROGRAM MANAGER Janice Ritter
ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT/EDITORIAL
Alex Kolar
I N T E G R AT E D M A R K E T I N G S O LU T I O N S
ACCOUNT DIRECTORS
MARKETING DIRECTOR Megan McIllwain Ragland
Katie Guasco [LA, MS, AR, TX] MARKETING COORDINATOR Gretchen Norris
Hagan Media/Katie Hagan [AL, FL, TN] ADVERTISING PRODUCTION REPRESENTATIVE
Kathy Gross [FL, GA, KY, MD, NC, SC, VA, DC, WV] Kimberly Lewis
ACCOUNT MANAGER Mary-Evelyn Dalton GRAPHIC DESIGNER Rachel Collins
DIRECT RESPONSE Hagan Media/Katie Hagan
DIGITAL AND SOCIAL BRAND PARTNERSHIPS For assistance with advertising, please call (888) 411-8995.
Kevin Masse
ON THE COVER
Shrimp and Andouille Jambalaya
IN CELEBRATION OF
(recipe on page 66) CHEF LEAH CHASE
photography by stephanie welbourne steele
styling by sidney bragiel
recipe development by kathleen kanen There are few people in New Orleans’ history who
food styling by vanessa rocchio have influenced the culinary and cultural fabric
as much as Chef Leah Chase of Dooky Chase’s
Restaurant, who passed away earlier this year.
From her role in helping desegregate Crescent City
FOLLOW US ON restaurants to the countless chefs whom she mentored, we are
grateful for all she did to feed our stomachs and our souls. Her legacy will
continue through the Edgar “Dooky” Jr. & Leah Chase Family Foundation.
For more information on the foundation, visit dookychasefoundation.org.
VISIT US AT LOUISIANACOOKIN.COM.
9 louisianacookin.com
SPILLIN’
T H E B E AN S PRESENTED BY CAMELLIA BRAND
11 louisianacookin.com
JUICY TIDBITS
Red Stick Spice Company,
Baton Rouge
Throughout the summer, Red Stick
Spice Company took a cooking class
hiatus while their kitchen underwent
an expansion. Classes are expected to
pick up again in October with a few
new courses, including Halloween-
themed Platters and Boards and
a special Farm, Food & Cooking
LOWDER BAKING COMPANY
Tour with owner and chef Anne
SHREVEPORT
Milneck as well as Lili Courtney.
In case you missed it: Lowder
redstickspice.com
King Cakes is officially Lowder
Levee Baking Co., New Orleans Baking Company. After several
Earlier this summer 2018 Chef to successful years slinging king
Watch Christina Balzebre opened cakes for Shreveport, Preston and
her brick-and-mortar Levee Baking Sarah Lowder opened their own
Co. on Magazine Street to much storefront in the city’s happening
fanfare. Longtime fans of Levee South Highland neighborhood.
praise Christina and her team’s focus The Lowders will continue turning
on high-quality, local, and seasonal out their beloved king cakes
ingredients to prepare delectable
during Carnival season, but now
handmade pastries and breads.
they offer a variety of breads, pastries, and cookies throughout the year.
leveebakingco.com
lowderbakingcompany.com
Cultured Guru, Baton Rouge
Baton Rouge’s own fermentation
company is releasing its latest ADVERTISING
seasonal product, Bonfire Kraut, later
this fall. This special limited-edition
kraut’s name is inspired by the smoky
flavor resulting from a unique blend
of cabbage, smoked onions, and
Cajun spices. It’s also a nod to co-
owner Kaitlynn Fenley’s home in St.
James Parish, otherwise known as
the “Bonfire Capital of the World.”
THE
cultured.guru SCOOP
Bellegarde Bakery, New Orleans
from Camellia Brand
This New Orleans bakery opened COOKING DOESN’T HAVE TO HEAT UP YOUR KITCHEN.
its new retail space this summer, Don’t let the heat keep you from getting in the kitchen and cooking your
offering freshly baked bread and family’s favorite meals. Stay cool by relying on the kind of appliances that
stone-milled grains. Bellegarde keep all their heat contained inside: slow cookers, Instant Pots, pressure
will also host baking classes at this cookers, or any kind of electric multicookers.
location. bellegardebakery.com
For delicious slow cooker and Instant Pot recipes, visit camelliabrand.com.
13 louisianacookin.com
PRODUCT PICK
GUMBO LIFE: TALES FROM THE
ROUX BAYOU BY KEN WELLS
As summer fades into fall, relax
and cozy up to a good book like
Ken Wells’ Gumbo Life: Tales from
the Roux Bayou (W. W. Norton &
Company, 2019). As any Louisianan
knows, gumbo is as much an
experience as it is a representation of
our culture. Ken explores the roots,
diversity, spread, and evolution of
one of the most famous and hotly
contested dishes in the world.
15 louisianacookin.com
CHEF CHAT
Downtown New Orleans got its first wine pub last fall
when Copper Vine opened in the building that was
once home to Maylie’s, a restaurant that opened in 1876.
Set in a beautifully designed space that includes Maylie’s
original bar, Copper Vine is known for its extensive
selection of wines on tap and equally tempting food
menu. We recently caught up with Executive Chef Mike
Brewer to talk about what’s new at Copper Vine.
Copper Vine is celebrating one year in September. at Commander’s Palace, so I know a little bit about
How have things changed over the last year? putting food and wine together. One of the keys to it
We have extended our dining areas. We’ve grown the was to make sure our menu was approachable with
courtyard to be a place where folks want to come and sit wine pairings. And we wanted to be somewhere folks
and hang out, and we added a retractable roof to make could come in every night of the week and experience
it more inviting in the heat. And we’ve touched up the something different. One night you could come in and
menu, putting some things on that we think the fans are get the short rib with a big cabernet, and another night
going to enjoy. you could get the pork belly with a pinot noir. It makes
it versatile and fun for people.
Can you tell us about some of those new things?
We have a dinner series called Between the Vines, and Copper Vine has a pretty happening happy hour.
we’re taking three items from those dinners and putting Tell us about that.
them into a three-course chef ’s tasting on our menu. It We offer our tap wines and house wines by the bottle
gives the kitchen a chance to spread its wings, but it also at half price. And we have our snacks menu, with
gives our guests a way to taste some of the foods from everything from marinated olives to flatbreads to our
the wine pairings. house-smoked salmon. We do fill up quite a bit. It runs
from 3:30 to 5:30, and at about 5 on a Friday afternoon,
How did you design the menu with wine in mind? you’re going to be hard-pressed to find room in the
Well, in a previous life, I used to be the sommelier courtyard.
17 louisianacookin.com
UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR
SEPTEMBER
LOUISIANA SUGAR CANE FESTIVAL
20–21 Natchitoches Meat Pie
SEPTEMBER 25–29, NEW IBERIA Festival; Natchitoches
There are 24 sugar-producing parishes in the Bayou State, and each year, meatpiefestival.com
those parishes are celebrated at the Louisiana Sugar Cane Festival in New
Iberia. This four-day festival is packed with fun for the whole family. It 20–22 Fried Chicken Festival
begins on Wednesday, New Orleans friedchickenfestival.com
September 25, with 20–22 St. Theresa Bon Ton Festival
carnival rides and shows. Sulphur visitlakecharles.org
The following three
20–22 St. Tammany Crab Festival
days are full of parades,
Slidell sttammanycrabfestival.com
cooking contests, food
vendors and sugary 27–28 Bogalusa Blues & Heritage
treats, games, live music Festival; Bogalusa
performances, and more. bogalusablues.com
hisugar.org 27–29 Gretna Heritage Festival
Gretna gretnafest.com
27–29 Ascension Hot Air Balloon
RED RIVER REVEL ARTS Festival; Gonzales facebook.com/
FESTIVAL SEPTEMBER 28– ascensionhotairballoonfestival
OCTOBER 6, SHREVEPORT
27–29 C.O.Y.C. Hurricane Festival
This year, Shreveport Cut Off lacajunbayou.com
commemorates its 44th annual
Red River Revel Arts Festival, a
nine-day festival with a mission to OCTOBER
provide arts education to children. 4–5 Funktoberfest; Alexandria
Throughout the festival, more funktoberfestcenla.com
than 100 visual artists display their 4–6 Tremé Fall Fest; New Orleans
work in a variety of mediums, in faubourgtreme.wixsite.com/tremefest
addition to dozens of musicians
5 Beignet Fest; New Orleans
and performers. Additionally,
beignetfest.com
crave-worthy festival food such as
Natchitoches meat pies, chicken 10–13 Festivals Acadiens et Créoles
ANDOUILLE FESTIVAL
and waffles, and jambalaya Lafayette festivalsacadiens.com
OCTOBER 18–20, LAPLACE
are available all week long. Across the Bayou State, we refer 11–13 Bridge City Gumbo Festival
redriverrevel.com to LaPlace as the “Andouille Bridge City
Capital of the World.” The city bridgecitygumbofestival.org
has fully embraced this moniker 11–13 Louisiana Gumbo Festival
and celebrates it annually with the Chackbay lagumbofest.com
Andouille Festival. Enjoy andouille
17–20 International Rice Festival
prepared in an assortment of
Crowley ricefestival.com
ways, sing and dance along to
live music performances, and 26 Pepper Festival; St. Martinville
visit with makers touting locally facebook.com/StMartinvilleKiwanisClub
produced goods, crafts, and 31–Nov. 3 La Fête des Bayous
art—all in celebration of the St. Amant geauxlafete.com
town’s most beloved commodity.
andouillefestival.com
19 louisianacookin.com
L I G H T & F R ES H
SWEET CROP
recipe development by melissa gray | food styling by vanessa rocchio
SWEET POTATOES HAVE BEEN GROWN in Louisiana for hundreds of years, and
today, the state remains one of the country’s largest producers of sweet potatoes. Their
sweet flavor makes them one of our favorite fall ingredients, but their numerous health
benefits make eating the starchy roots even sweeter. With high levels of beta-carotene,
vitamin A, vitamin C, and dietary fiber, sweet potatoes are a nutritional powerhouse. This
fall, try something new with Louisiana sweet potatoes, like this silky soup with warming
curry paste and plump shrimp.
GEMS
OF THE SEA
recipe development by tricia manzanero | food styling by vanessa rocchio | styling by sidney bragiel
IT’S NO SECRET how much Louisianans love shrimp. Whether they’re fried, boiled, grilled, or sautéed, we enjoy
eating Gulf shrimp just about any way they can be prepared. We adore the briny crustaceans for their versatility on
the plate, and this fall, we’ve cooked up a few exciting ways to highlight their incredible flavor.
GARLIC SHRIMP AND GRITS butter over medium heat. Add tasso; WHITE CHEDDAR CORN GRITS
MAKES 4 SERVINGS cook, stirring occasionally, until MAKES 4 CUPS
browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Using
We spiced up this easy shrimp and grits a slotted spoon, transfer tasso to a 4 cups low-sodium chicken broth
recipe with a bit of tasso. medium bowl, reserving drippings in 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
skillet. 1 teaspoon kosher salt
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, 2. Add bell pepper, onion, and garlic 1 cup stone-ground yellow corn
divided to skillet; cook, stirring constantly, grits
⅓ pound tasso, cut into ½-inch cubes until softened, 3 to 4 minutes. 1½ cups shredded extra-sharp white
⅓ cup chopped red bell pepper Transfer vegetables to bowl with tasso. Cheddar cheese
⅓ cup chopped green onion 3. Add shrimp to skillet; cook until ¼ cup mascarpone cheese*
6 cloves garlic, minced pink and firm, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer 2 tablespoons heavy whipping
1 pound peeled and deveined large shrimp to bowl with tasso mixture. cream
fresh shrimp (tails left on) 4. Add remaining 2 tablespoons
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour butter to skillet, and let melt. 1. In a medium saucepan, bring
1 cup low-sodium chicken broth, Whisk in flour; cook for 1 minute, broth, butter, and salt to a boil over
room temperature whisking constantly. Whisk in broth, medium-high heat. Gradually whisk
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce Worcestershire, lemon juice, and in grits; reduce heat to medium-
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice cayenne; bring to a boil over medium- low. Cover and cook, whisking
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper high heat. Reduce heat to medium; occasionally, until grits are thickened,
White Cheddar Corn Grits simmer until thickened, 2 to about 20 minutes.
(recipe follows) 4 minutes. 2. Remove from heat; gradually whisk
Garnish: ground black pepper, 5. Return tasso mixture to skillet; stir in Cheddar, mascarpone, and cream.
chopped red bell pepper, until heated through, 2 to 3 minutes. Serve immediately. (Whisk in an
chopped fresh parsley Serve immediately with White additional 2 to 4 tablespoons warm
Cheddar Corn Grits. Garnish with cream if grits become too thick.)
1. In a 12-inch enamel-coated black pepper, bell pepper, and parsley,
cast-iron skillet, heat 1 tablespoon if desired. *Cream cheese may be substituted.
23 louisianacookin.com
CHOOSING & STORING
FRESH SHRIMP
Choose: Fresh shrimp should
smell like the sea, and their
flesh should look firm. Avoid
any shrimp that smell like
ammonia, which means the
shrimp are going bad. Shrimp
should not be limp or slimy.
Black spots on the head and
body are another sign of decay.
Store: Fresh shrimp should be
kept in the coldest part of your
fridge and used within 2 days.
SHRIMP
SHR MP AND ANDOUILLE
ANDOU LLE 1 cup low-sodium chicken broth firm, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer shrimp
PASTALAYA 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley to bowl with andouille.
MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme 3. Add onion, bell pepper, celery, and
1 teaspoon firmly packed dark garlic to pot; cook until vegetables
This weeknight winner packs an brown sugar are softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Add
impressive amount of flavor. ¾ teaspoon kosher salt tomatoes, broth, parsley, thyme,
12 ounces fusilli pasta, cooked brown sugar, salt, and remaining
2 tablespoons unsalted butter according to package directions 1 tablespoon Creole seasoning.
12 ounce package andouille sausage, Garnish: chopped fresh parsley, Break up tomatoes using a wooden
cut into ¼-inch-thick slices chopped fresh thyme spoon; bring to a boil. Reduce heat
1 pound peeled and deveined large to medium; simmer until slightly
fresh shrimp 1. In a large Dutch oven, heat butter thickened, about 15 minutes.
1 tablespoon plus ½ teaspoon over medium heat. Add andouille; 4. Stir in andouille mixture and
Creole seasoning*, divided cook, stirring frequently, until cooked pasta, tossing to coat. Garnish
1⅓ cups chopped onion browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Using a with parsley and thyme, if desired.
⅔ cup chopped green bell pepper slotted spoon, transfer andouille to a
⅔ cup chopped celery medium bowl. *We used Zatarain’s Creole Seasoning.
6 cloves garlic, minced 2. Add shrimp to pot; sprinkle with
1 (28-ounce) can whole plum ½ teaspoon Creole seasoning. Cook,
tomatoes, undrained stirring frequently, until pink and
25 louisianacookin.com
SHRIMP TOAST
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
RIB-EYE
IN THE SKY
by chef john d. folse
IT WAS WHILE lying on my back and looking up the The Native Americans who first roamed this area
sight of a 12-gauge shotgun at a sky blackened with birds knew about the seasonal arrival of ducks and geese,
that I realized I was not a hunter. Even though I came naming one spot in present-day St. James Parish
from a long line of hunters, I couldn’t hit the side of a Cabanosse, “mallards’ roost.” One can imagine how the
barn. My destiny was to cook game, not hunt it. abundance of waterfowl delighted the newly arrived
My father was a phenomenal hunter and as Acadians, discovering that Louisiana was where the birds
comfortable in the swamp as he was on our front porch. they hunted in Nova Scotia in the spring and summer
As a young man, he made a living trapping and hunting. disappeared for the winter.
My birth certificate shows my father’s occupation as It seems waterfowl-hunting would be familiar to
trapper. Our larder was filled with ingredients from the any who arrived in Louisiana from foreign shores. Even
swamp floor, and our back in Egypt, a shrine in the
porch décor was stretched tomb of King Tutankhamun
“LOUISIANA’S ABUNDANT WETLANDS,
hides drying in the sun. shows a depiction of the
My culinary education MARSHES, AND BAYOUS MAKE THIS A pharaoh hunting birds.
in preparing wild delicacies Because his hunting grounds
WATERFOWL PARADISE YEAR-ROUND.”
came from the “Escoffiers” were known as “Swamps of
of Cajun Country. At Enjoyment,” I venture that he
Uncle Paul Zeringue’s camp on Cabanocey Plantation, I would have been at home in Louisiana’s marshes.
learned to make duck and andouille gumbo; at Ivy Bye’s While ducks were common, geese held considerable
camp on Burton Lane, I learned to cook goose breast distinction throughout the ages. The Romans considered
sauce piquante; at Guy Caire’s camp, I watched as swamp geese sacred, and the Greeks domesticated and fattened
meals were prepared for governors, senators, and state them. In medieval Europe, geese of the village were
representatives. presented to conquering heroes. In England, roasted
Louisiana’s abundant wetlands, marshes, and bayous goose was standard fare for St. Michael’s Day and
make this a waterfowl paradise year-round. What elevates Christmas. For me, too, geese are my favorite waterfowl
the state from being a great place to hunt to being to eat. I love wood duck as much as the next guy, but
Sportsman’s Paradise is its location at the southern end of give me a specklebelly and I’m in heaven. I guess others
the Mississippi Flyway, the path hundreds of bird species feel the same, because in south Louisiana, we don’t hunt
take to their southern wintering grounds each year. geese; we hunt “rib-eye in the sky”!
Chef John D. Folse is an entrepreneur with interests ranging from restaurant development to food manufacturing, catering to culinary education.
Similar recipes can be found in After the Hunt: Louisiana’s Authoritative Collection of Wild Game & Game Fish Cookery (Chef John Folse & Company).
27 louisianacookin.com
ROASTED GOOSE WITH ¼ cup minced garlic 3. Bake for 45 minutes. Pour brandy
BAKED APPLES 1 cup apple brandy or Calvados over goose. Bake, basting with juices
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 1 cup mashed cooked sweet potato every 45 minutes, until an instant-
Recipe courtesy of Chef John Folse ¼ cup firmly packed light brown read thermometer inserted in thickest
sugar portion registers 170°, about 3 hours
Geese are found by the thousands in 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, more, tenting with foil to prevent
south Louisiana marshlands. In this melted excess browning, if necessary.
recipe, the apples not only flavor the 6 small Honeycrisp apples, cored 4. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl,
goose but also make for a beautiful 6 baby Honeycrisp apples combine mashed sweet potato, brown
presentation around the platter. Garnish: fresh sage leaves sugar, melted butter, remaining
¼ teaspoon salt, and remaining
4¾ teaspoons kosher salt, divided 1. Preheat oven to 325°. Place a wire ¼ teaspoon pepper. Mound about
1½ tablespoons garlic powder rack inside a large roasting pan. 3 tablespoons potato mixture on top
3¼ teaspoons ground black pepper, 2. In a small bowl, stir together of each cored apple.
divided 4½ teaspoons salt, garlic powder, 5. During last 45 minutes of baking,
2 teaspoons Creole seasoning 3 teaspoons pepper, and Creole add potato-topped apples and baby
1 (8- to 10-pound) specklebelly seasoning. Season goose cavity and apples to pan; baste with juices. Let
goose, rinsed and patted dry skin with salt mixture. Place onion, goose stand for 10 minutes before
2 cups chopped yellow onion celery, bell pepper, carrot, and garlic carving. Serve with potato-topped
1 cup chopped celery inside cavity. Tie legs with butcher’s apples and baked baby apples. Garnish
1 cup chopped green bell pepper twine; tuck wings behind back. Place with sage, if desired.
½ cup chopped carrot goose, breast side up, in prepared pan.
LO U I S IANA
FO O D WAYS
CÔTE DES
ALLEMANDS
THE HERITAGE AND CULINARY TRADITIONS OF LOUISIANA’S GERMAN COAST
29 louisianacookin.com
as German names but took on new spellings when “The LaPlace style of andouille, which is coarser, leaner,
recorded for the census. and more heavily smoked than that made in other parts of
However, the German contribution to the area’s the state, is reflective of robust German cuisine.”
foodways is still evident today. Andouille may have a Now a staple ingredient in classic Louisiana dishes
French name, but this mainstay of Cajun and Creole like gumbo and jambalaya, andouille is so emblematic
cuisine was heavily influenced by German butchering and of the German Coast that in the 1970s, the town of
sausage-making traditions. The German communities LaPlace in St. John the Baptist Parish was proclaimed the
held boucheries, during which a pig was slaughtered and “Andouille Capital of the World,” and a festival is held
every part was used to make all manner of pork products, each fall to celebrate its claim to fame.
including andouille and other sausages. Today, the German heritage of the area is celebrated at
The andouille of the German Coast is thick and the German Coast Farmers’ Market and in butcher shops
smoky, made with lean cuts of pork and a simple blend of and meat markets, where local growers and producers
spices. This is in contrast to the French style of andouille, uphold their ancestors’ traditions and show the impact
which is made with tripe and chitterlings. In Mémère’s Germans had on the agriculture and foodways of these
Country Creole Cookbook (LSU Press, 2018), lifelong towns along the Mississippi River.
German Coast resident Nancy Tregre Wilson states,
STORIES
OF THE GULF
by caitlin watzke
31 louisianacookin.com
THAI BASIL DAIQUIRI
GRILLED FISH
THIS PAGE (Clockwise from top left) The Burger,
Ice Cream Cookie Sandwiches, and outdoor patio
area at Spoonbill Watering Hole & Restaurant.
33 louisianacookin.com
ROASTED BEET SALAD
5
GRILLED FISH
dishes THE BURGER
to try BBQ SHRIMP
CRAB QUESADILLA
Join Southern Cast Iron this fall for the inaugural Southern Cast Iron
Cook-Off. Held at the Lake Charles Civic Center, this family-
friendly weekend event celebrates cast iron cooking with exciting
live demonstrations, vendor booths, musical acts, and our headlining
event: an amateur cooking competition.
GATHER YOUR TEAM OF HOME COOKS AND PREPARE AN ORIGINAL CAST
IRON-COOKED DISH THAT WILL WOW OUR TEAM OF JUDGES. CHOOSE TO
ENTER ONE OR MORE OF THE FOLLOWING CATEGORIES: MEAT & GAME,
SEAFOOD, SWEET & SAVORY BAKING, AND VEGETABLES & SIDES.
With live music throughout the weekend, this cast iron celebration
will be a hit for all ages. Don’t miss zydeco and Cajun sensations
Rockin’ Dopsie, Geno Delafose & French Rockin’ Boogie, and The
Iceman Special. As the night continues, country music sensation
Craig Morgan will take the stage for an unforgettable closing
performance. Inducted into the Grand Ole Opry in 2008, Craig is
best known for his chart-topping hits “Almost Home,” “Redneck
Yacht Club,” and “That’s What I Love About Sunday.”
Whether you come for the cast iron, delicious food, or
toe-tapping tunes, this autumn weekend is an event that guests
of all ages are sure to enjoy.
@southerncastiron
@southerncastiron
@castironsouth
six chefs who are changing the way
we eat, one dish at a time
by samantha moats | photography by john o’hagan
here is nothing the editors of Louisiana Cookin’ Luke Hidalgo of Hambone in Mandeville, Breanne Kostyk
37 louisianacookin.com
TOP ROW, LEFT TO RIGHT: MARTHA WIGGINS, BREANNE KOSTYK
MIDDLE ROW: PAIGE LUCAS, ANDREW GREEN BOTTOM ROW: JANA BILLIOT, LUKE HIDALGO
Chef Jana Billiot joined chefs John Folse and Rick Q: You’re one of relatively few women leading
Tramonto’s Restaurant R’evolution as sous chef two kitchens in New Orleans. Has that been a challenge
years before the restaurant became a reality. Since then, for you?
Jana has raised the bar for exceptional New Orleans I’ve had to prove myself, of course, but that’s not difficult
cuisine and risen through the ranks to become chef to do. When you have the character to lead by example,
de cuisine, leading the charge as R’evolution artfully know what you’re talking about, and can back up what
reimagines New Orleans classics. you have to say, you prove that you deserve your position
and your rank, and there’s no argument. I’m proud to be
Q: How does it feel to have been part of Restaurant part of that small group of women who are in charge and
R’evolution since day one? doing their thing.
It feels like a lot of hard work and hours put in, and it’s
paid off! It feels like my baby, even though I wasn’t the Q: What does it mean to you to reinvent a classic
chef de cuisine starting out. But beyond the [original] and still remain authentic?
chef de cuisine, Jody Denton, I was the first person What it means to me is more about a reinterpretation of
they hired to come in and help them with the kitchen an old classic. We’re not changing the main ingredients,
and menu design, the concept, the culture, the brigade we’re not reinventing the wheel, but we’re having fun
system—everything we have in place. So, I played a and looking at it from a different angle. Those traditions
major role in all those things. It was my first opening and flavor profiles don’t change, but we are giving those
and I had no experience in anything like this, but it’s dishes a different type of presentation. For instance, we
been life-changing. may deconstruct a dish to make it more elegant than it
may originally seem. Let’s face it: it’s not like Cajun and
Q: What inspires you the most as a chef? Creole cuisines are necessarily beautiful or elegant, but
A majority of our staff are young and influential they have a lot of flavor and a lot of history to enjoy.
chefs who are going online and researching. They’re
inquisitive and want to take on the world with Q: What ingredients do you enjoy working with?
something new. We all kind of inspire each other in that I always look forward to spring when the strawberries
sense. We constantly have conversations that start with come in. Heirloom and Creole tomatoes are always going
something like, “Did you hear about this or that new to inspire a dish or two. In the fall, I look forward to using
cooking method?” I’m always trying to do something all these delicious spices that go so well with the fall and
new, different, or better, and that all comes from these winter squash and gourds. But all year, we have access to
young, super-inspired chefs I get to work with day in whatever seafood is being caught locally, and it gives us
and day out. the freedom to use whatever it is in its prime.
39 louisianacookin.com
SEARED GROUPER WITH SMOKED TOMATO DASHI
Try this AT THE CHEFS TO WATCH DINNER
Find Jana’s signature recipe online at louisianacookin.com/chefstowatchrecipes.
Chef Paige Lucas is executive chef and owner of Q: How has your approach changed in this transition
Pork Belly’s Bar & Grill in Marksville. After to being not only a chef but also a restaurant owner?
graduating from culinary school, Paige took every I’m not always as creative as I used to be, not until I
opportunity to deepen her culinary finesse at major get back in the kitchen. Whenever I get a chance to be
events, including the Cannes Film Festival. From back there, I have to challenge myself even more than I
slow-roasted pork belly to a dark roux crawfish stew, used to. But it’s really not so much about me anymore;
Paige showcases her heritage and skill alongside rich it’s about making my other chefs here even better. They
Louisiana ingredients. have a lot of creativity, so there’s always something we’re
trying out.
Q: Where does your love for the culinary world
come from? Q: How often do you change the menu, and what
As a little Cajun girl, I just remember the smell of inspires a change?
Community Coffee, natural gas, and a fried egg in the We change the menu at any opportunity to fully explore
morning. That’s just something that’s so familiar to me, what we can do here, but at least three to four times a
and it still makes me feel like a child when I have that. year. The other two chefs will come to me with an idea
Cooking, for whatever reason, came easy to me. It got and we’ll feed off each other until we make it happen.
to the point that I thought maybe I should take this I get really inspired when we have a good night at the
seriously. Believe it or not, I wanted to go to med school restaurant. We’ll top it off with a nightcap and really
and be a doctor. But I dropped out and told my parents analyze what we want to see next. Anything is on the
I wanted to go to culinary school instead. I never knew table for a change.
this is what I wanted, but I just gravitated toward it.
I really got started when I enrolled at the Louisiana Q: What’s your cooking philosophy?
Culinary Institute in Baton Rouge. From there, it went I love everything about food. I love the preparation. I
from zero to 100 miles an hour. love the intense, fast pace of the kitchen. I’ve said this
before, but I really mean it: food is intimate and should
Q: What made you decide to open Pork Belly’s Bar be treated so. People don’t always go out to eat anymore
& Grill in your hometown? just because they’re hungry. Of course they’re hungry,
I’m a native of Avoyelles and grew up in Marksville. I but more often than not, they’re also going out to enjoy
worked and lived away for a little while, but I came back themselves and have a good time with a significant other
here to work for myself. My dad owns his own business, or a couple of friends. What I want is to give someone
my grandfather owned his own business, so I always that intimate experience, even at Pork Belly’s.
knew I was going to be in business for myself someday.
41 louisianacookin.com
ROASTED PORK OVER SWEET POTATO SOUFFLÉ
Try this AT THE CHEFS TO WATCH DINNER
Find Paige’s signature recipe online at louisianacookin.com/chefstowatchrecipes.
Chef Martha Wiggins came into her own while Q: Which Louisiana ingredients do you enjoy the
heading up the kitchen at Sylvain in New most? Is there a season you really look forward to?
Orleans’ French Quarter. While she was the gastropub’s Summer is great—tomatoes, corn, okra, peas, watermelon.
executive chef, she was a semifinalist for the James It’s funny because in summer we get all this stuff and then
Beard Foundation’s 2017 Rising Star Award and 2018 everybody leaves [for vacation]. But something I love
Best Chef South. Now, she is in the kitchen with about working in New Orleans is the Gulf and the amount
2013 Chef to Watch Alex Harrell at the Elysian Bar, a of seafood that we get sustainably and really fresh. It blows
charming French-Southern bistro inside Hotel Peter & my mind. I’ve learned more about seafood and varieties of
Paul in the Marigny. Martha is inspired by the variety fish than I ever thought I would.
of fresh local seafood and seasonal produce, which she
highlights in her flavor-forward dishes. Q: Historically, this industry has been male-
dominated. What’s been your experience?
Q: How did your love for the culinary arts begin? My story is pretty typical, but I have been lucky to
I got hooked on the adrenaline rush of working in a work with men in the industry who have seen my
busy place. The fast-paced environment really suits value and listened when I needed them to and who
my personality. I always thought of myself as a good were open to being checked of dominant, aggressive,
soldier, so the idea that I had any talent in this business or discriminatory behaviors they may or may not have
didn’t come for a long time. But I’ve always known been aware of. It’s important to me to work with people
the work suits me. Then I realized I’m not just good at who can evolve and break away from conditioned
replicating what another chef does, I’m good at creating behaviors and be accountable for them.
my own food.
Q: What inspires you most as a chef?
Q: How did you end up in New Orleans? Generally, cooks in Louisiana and the United States
I had been to New Orleans a couple of times when I don’t make a living wage, and yet they still do it. I’m
was younger, but even then, I knew I would live here inspired by the people I work with across the restaurant
someday. I love the energy and soul of this place. community, who are still willing to do this job even
Something about it connected with me. I moved here when they don’t make enough. I’m inspired by this
from Massachusetts in 2010. A friend of mine in deranged desire to be a cook or a chef, by people who
Washington state told me she would be driving to New are inclined to this life. My current circumstances are
Orleans and needed a travel buddy. So, I flew out to great. Everyone is paid fairly, and tips are shared. In my
Washington and then drove here with her, and I’ve been opinion, as things exist currently, that’s the only way to
here ever since. I love it, and I never want to leave. do it, and I wouldn’t have it any other way.
WHERE SHE COOKS THE MOST EMBARRASSING THING IN YOUR HOME REFRIGERATOR:
The Elysian Bar
JARS OF PICKLE JUICE WITH NO PICKLES BECAUSE
2317 Burgundy St.
New Orleans I ATE ALL THE PICKLES, SO I DRINK
504.356.6769 THE JUICE.
43 louisianacookin.com
GULF FISH CEVICHE WITH COCONUT MILK AND CHILES
Try this AT THE CHEFS TO WATCH DINNER
Find Martha’s signature recipe online at louisianacookin.com/chefstowatchrecipes.
TOP Martha plating a dish at the Elysian Bar. MIDDLE Bar area at the Elysian Bar.
BOTTOM (left to right) Swordfish Belly Crudo; Seared Shrimp and Broccolini.
In 2015, Lake Charles native Andrew Green Q: Your restaurant is four years old this year. What’s
opened 1910 Restaurant & Wine Bar, specializing been the best part about reaching this milestone?
in artfully crafted, classic Louisiana dishes. As a certified It’s definitely a milestone because there’s no resource
Level One sommelier, Andrew also focuses on growing to tell you exactly how to do all of this. We’ve seen and
1910’s extensive wine program, and he recently began embraced that business side of running a restaurant. But
developing a sizable whiskey collection for enthusiasts. now, I finally feel like we can really take off. It’s good to
Named for the year a great fire destroyed much of feel established.
downtown Lake Charles, 1910 is fittingly situated in the
Phoenix Building—a sure sign this city is continually on Q: What’s your approach to coming up with
the rise. something new or making changes?
With that, there’s this whole thing about deconstructing
Q: Where did your love for the culinary arts begin? the dishes. You have to show respect to the tradition and
When I was little, my grandmother had a stool that was the history of the dish and those techniques behind the
just the right height for me to sit [in front of the stove] dishes. So, whenever I’m cooking, I’m constantly looking
and stir the onions. That is my most profound early at it from that perspective. There are also a lot of wines
memory of cooking. But my culinary discovery really and foods that just naturally pair together because those
started while I was living in New Orleans. I tried veal things are from the same geographical place. When
sweetbreads, the endorphins kicked in, and I went home we’re doing a course for a dinner that we’re pairing with
to google everything about them. It was a transformative a wine, we’re looking at the history behind the wine and
experience. I was studying prelaw and got an image the food and the region they come from. Then we build
of practicing law for a few years and then opening a the menu around that with quality and integrity.
restaurant and becoming a chef. My dad talked me out
of that. Q: What do you enjoy most about being a chef?
I’m in a special position to be able to own my business.
Q: Why did you open your restaurant in Lake I get to enjoy this bigger picture but also do the dirty
Charles? work and the pretty work at the same time. There’s
Lake Charles is a strong community of individuals. nothing I love more than butchering a bunch of fillets,
It’s a fun time to be a part of this community. When I making sure they look good, and sending them out. But
came back here, we didn’t really have much on par with interacting with people is also important and rewarding
restaurants I loved in New Orleans, so I wanted to be to me. Going out into the dining room and seeing people
part of bringing some of that here. having a good time—that’s a wonderful experience.
45 louisianacookin.com
LOUISIANA SEAFOOD GUMBO CROQUETTE
Try this AT THE CHEFS TO WATCH DINNER
Find Andrew’s signature recipe online at louisianacookin.com/chefstowatchrecipes.
Luke Hidalgo honed his skills as a chef at don’t talk about work. Our family is our main focus at all
Commander’s Palace under the tutelage of Chef times. Something I learned at Commander’s Palace from
Tory McPhail and the hospitable direction of Ella Ella and Ti is that at the end of the day, the restaurant
Brennan and Ti Martin. Luke’s time at Commander’s business is a people business. It’s how you treat people—
were formative years for his career, but it’s also where he your customers, yes, but also your employees. We live
met his wife, Marci. Together, they co-own Hambone in by example, and we’re creating a culture that gets people
Mandeville, with Marci handling the front of the house excited and empowers them to be in this industry.
and Luke leading the kitchen with his artistic approach Everything we do is filtered through the idea of what
to both Louisiana and Southern fare. Hambone is about to us, and that keeps me passionate
about the food.
Q: Now that Hambone has been open for more than
a year, what is the best thing about the community Q: What inspires you the most as a chef?
you’ve built around the restaurant? It’s important to us to have our own worldview and
There’s a refreshingly abundant number of foodies up vision when it comes to our food and not get so caught
here. I think our menu does a good job of balancing up in keeping up with the Joneses. It’s no fun when you
creative food with more simple, traditional food. We do that. I feel lucky in the sense that I truly love food and
weren’t sure what this community would be more am interested in it on a base level. So, I get excited when
interested in, and it’s great to see so many people a new season comes around, like stone fruit season.
into an artistic approach that recalls something more That’s its own inspiration. When I see something like
traditional. But more importantly, Marci and I had heirloom tomatoes or muscadines coming in, I start
a vision for a restaurant that really catered to local wondering what we’re going to do with them.
families, people like ourselves who have kids who are
loud in a great way. To be able to bring your kids to play Q: What’s your method for changing something or
and have a good time while you have a good meal is creating something new?
important. It’s something we take pride in because it’s From A to B, it’s a lot of teamwork and collaboration.
hard sometimes just to get a kid to eat their dinner. Things just happen naturally when you’re surrounded
by people who all care about food. We try to find that
Q: How do you and Marci stay grounded as a family correlation to your grandmother’s cooking or create
and still maintain that creative element of running a something that tastes like you’ve had it your whole life.
restaurant? A little new, a little creative, a little stimulating, but
The hours and days aren’t typical, so we have to work, tethered to down-home. If I’m going to make something,
plan, and schedule. When we’re off, we’re off and we I want you to enjoy it. I feel like it’s my gift.
47 louisianacookin.com
BURRATA AND SPOONBREAD WITH WATERMELON
Try this HOT SAUCE AT THE CHEFS TO WATCH DINNER
Find Luke’s signature recipe online at louisianacookin.com/chefstowatchrecipes.
Born and raised in Connecticut, Chef Breanne many things in mind, from the textures and the flavors to
Kostyk is a self-taught pastry chef with a what it actually looks like. There are so many levels that
background in graphic design. She arrived in the South are fun for me to create.
to help launch PieLab, a community-focused pie shop in
Greensboro, Alabama. Breanne is currently the pastry Q: How do you use seasonality to your advantage at
chef of Josephine Estelle at New Orleans’ Ace Hotel, Josephine Estelle?
using her creativity to develop seasonal desserts that I try not to repeat desserts, but I am always trying to
build on a variety of textures and flavors. change up the menu. So, it may be the same kind of
dessert, but it’s made with different ingredients. For
Q: Where does your love of baking and pastries example, there’s almost always some kind of panna cotta
come from? on the menu, but it will incorporate different ingredients.
It comes from growing up and baking, mostly during
the holidays with my mother. We’d bake simple things Q: Do you have any favorite flavor combinations?
like cookies and pies, but she was always a cake decora- Right now, we have a dessert on the menu with pistachio,
tor. For our birthdays, we’d have beautifully decorated blackberries, and passion fruit. I just imagined them
cakes. There’s a nostalgic element to baking that I like. being good together, and it’s become one of my favorites.
49 louisianacookin.com
CHARRED SOURDOUGH PANNA COTTA
Try this AT THE CHEFS TO WATCH DINNER
Find Breanne’s signature recipe online at louisianacookin.com/chefstowatchrecipes.
SATSUMA AND
SHRIMP SALAD
P. 58
P. 58
SATSUMA MULE
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
2 cups ice
1 (750-ml) bottle Gingeroo*
¾ cup fresh satsuma juice
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
Garnish: satsuma slices, lime slices
55 louisianacookin.com
MINI SATSUMA VANILLA
BUNDT CAKES
P. 58
SATSUMA-LACQUERED 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme skillet; cook until browned, 1 to
QUAIL Garnish: seared satsuma slices, bay 2 minutes per side. Place on a
MAKES 4 SERVINGS leaves large rimmed baking sheet. Repeat
with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and
Satsuma juice and pepper jelly make 1. In a large nonreactive saucepan, remaining quail. Brush quail with
a spicy, citrusy glaze that accents the bring satsuma juice, pepper jelly, rum, satsuma mixture.
light, delicate flavor of quail. vinegar, ⅛ teaspoon salt, and bay 4. Bake for 7 minutes. Turn quail, and
leaves to a boil over medium-high brush with satsuma mixture. Bake
2 cups fresh satsuma juice heat. Boil until reduced to ¾ cup, until an instant-read thermometer
3 tablespoons red pepper jelly 15 to 17 minutes. Remove from heat; inserted in thickest portion registers
2 tablespoons dark rum discard bay leaves. Reserve ¼ cup 165°, about 7 minutes more, brushing
1 tablespoon cane vinegar satsuma mixture for serving. with pan juices. Place on a serving
1⅛ teaspoons kosher salt, divided 2. Preheat oven to 450°. platter. Sprinkle with thyme. Drizzle
2 bay leaves 3. In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon with reserved ¼ cup satsuma mixture.
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided oil over medium-high heat. Sprinkle Garnish with satsuma slices and bay
12 semiboneless quail (dressed) quail with pepper and remaining leaves, if desired.
½ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 teaspoon salt. Add half of quail to
57 louisianacookin.com
SATSUMA AND SHRIMP SALAD 1 cup chopped fresh satsuma 2 teaspoons vanilla bean paste
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS sections 1 cup all-purpose flour
(photo on page 52) 2 tablespoons chopped fresh ½ teaspoon kosher salt
cilantro ⅓ cup sour cream
With the season’s best satsumas, this ⅛ teaspoon crushed red pepper Satsuma Glaze (recipe follows)
colorful salad is anything but boring. 4 ounces brown rice pad Thai Garnish: satsuma zest
noodles, cooked according
⅓ cup fresh satsuma juice to package directions, rinsed 1. Preheat oven to 350°.
1 tablespoon Creole mustard in cold water, and drained 2. In a large bowl, beat butter and
½ teaspoon sugar 2 teaspoons dark sesame oil sugar with a mixer at medium speed
½ teaspoon hot sauce 2 teaspoons ground chile paste* until fluffy, 5 to 6 minutes, stopping
½ teaspoon plus ⅛ teaspoon kosher 1 teaspoon black sesame seeds to scrape sides of bowl. Add eggs and
salt, divided ½ teaspoon grated fresh ginger egg yolk, one at a time, beating well
5 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided ½ teaspoon satsuma zest after each addition. Stir in zest and
¾ cup sliced red onion 2 tablespoons vegetable oil vanilla bean paste.
1½ pounds peeled and deveined 2 (5-ounce) tuna steaks 3. In a medium bowl, sift together
extra-large fresh shrimp (about ¾ inch thick) flour and salt. With mixer on low
(tails left on) ¾ teaspoon ground black pepper speed, gradually add flour mixture
½ teaspoon ground black pepper ½ teaspoon kosher salt to butter mixture alternately with
8 cups loosely packed fresh arugula sour cream, beginning and ending
1 cup fresh satsuma sections 1. In a small bowl, whisk together with flour mixture, beating just until
(about 4 satsumas) satsuma juice, mirin, soy sauce, and combined after each addition.
¼ cup chopped toasted pecans vinegar. Set aside. 4. Spray a 6-well mini Bundt pan
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 2. In another small bowl, gently toss with baking spray with flour. Spoon
together satsuma sections, cilantro, batter into prepared wells.
1. In a medium bowl, whisk together and red pepper. Set aside. 5. Bake until a wooden pick inserted
satsuma juice, mustard, sugar, hot 3. In a medium bowl, toss together near center comes out clean, 15 to
sauce, and ⅛ teaspoon salt; gradually cooked noodles, sesame oil, chile 20 minutes. Let cool in pan for
whisk in 2 tablespoons oil. Add onion; paste, sesame seeds, ginger, and zest. 10 minutes. Remove from pan, and
cover and let stand for 1 hour. Set aside. let cool completely on a wire rack.
2. In a large skillet, heat 1½ tablespoons 4. In a medium skillet, heat vegetable Place wire rack over a sheet of
oil over medium-high heat. Sprinkle oil over medium-high heat. Sprinkle parchment paper. Pour Satsuma
shrimp with pepper and remaining tuna with black pepper and salt. Add Glaze over cooled cakes. Garnish
½ teaspoon salt. Add half of shrimp tuna to skillet; cook until browned on with zest, if desired.
to skillet; cook until pink and firm, both sides, about 2 minutes per side.
about 2 minutes per side. Remove Reduce heat to medium; cook until SATSUMA GLAZE
from skillet. Repeat with remaining medium (pink in center), about MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP
1½ tablespoons oil and remaining 2 minutes more per side. Remove
shrimp. Let cool slightly. from skillet; let rest for 10 minutes. 1½ cups confectioners’ sugar
3. On a large serving platter, arrange Cut into slices. 3 tablespoons fresh satsuma juice
arugula, satsuma sections, and shrimp. 5. Divide noodles and tuna between
Sprinkle with pecans and parsley. 2 serving plates. Serve with sauce and 1. In a small bowl, whisk together
Remove onion from dressing; arrange salsa. confectioners’ sugar and satsuma juice
on top of salad. Serve immediately until smooth. Use immediately.
with dressing. *We used sambal oelek.
Bursting with bright, citrus flavor, our These satsuma-infused mini Bundts are
satsuma ponzu sauce pairs perfectly sweet, satisfying desserts.
with seared tuna and rice noodles.
½ cup unsalted butter, softened
2 tablespoons fresh satsuma juice 1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons mirin (sweet 2 large eggs
Japanese rice wine) 1 egg yolk
1 tablespoon soy sauce 2 teaspoons satsuma zest
1 tablespoon seasoned rice vinegar (from about 2 satsumas)
SHRIMP AND
ANDOUILLE JAMBALAYA
P. 66
Pure
LOUISIANA
A
a quintessential dish of both Cajun and Creole cuisines, jambalaya holds a
sppecial place in the canon of Louisiana cooking. This one-pot wonder builds
d
deep flavors with rice, the trinity (onion, celery, and bell pepper), and various
roteins such as poultry, sausage, and shrimp. This menu highlights one of
our ffavorite
i jambalayas, packed with plump Louisiana shrimp and smoky andouille
sausage, and rounds out the meal with a few hearty appetizers, sides, and a dessert
you’re sure to love.
photography by nicole du bois
recipe development and food styling by kathleen kanen
styling by beth k. seeley
SMOKED PAPRIKA
PAPR KA
AND BUTTERMILK
CORNBREAD
P. 66
61 louisianacookin.com
ROASTED OYSTERS WITH 1. Preheat oven to 425°. GREEN CHILE-GARLIC BUTTER
GREEN CHILE-GARLIC 2. Arrange oysters in an oyster MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
BUTTER baking container. Top each oyster
MAKES 6 SERVINGS with 1 tablespoon Green Chile-Garlic 2 cups unsalted butter, softened
Butter. 2 (4-ounce) cans diced green
We used The Oyster Bed, a metal oyster 3. Bake until oysters begin to curl chiles, drained and patted dry
dish, but you could use 6 (4-ounce) around the edges, about 8 minutes. 1 teaspoon garlic powder
ramekins. Visit theoysterbed.com to Remove from oven. Increase oven ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
purchase or find retailers. temperature to broil.
4. In a small bowl, toss together bread 1. In a medium bowl, beat all
6 large fresh oysters, shucked crumbs, oil, garlic powder, salt, and ingredients with a mixer at medium
Green Chile-Garlic Butter (recipe pepper. Sprinkle oysters with bread speed until combined. Spoon into
follows) crumbs mixture. Add ⅓ cup Green a small bowl. Serve immediately, or
¼ cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs) Chile-Garlic Butter to well. cover and refrigerate until ready to
2 teaspoons vegetable oil 5. Broil on middle rack of oven until serve.
⅛ teaspoon garlic powder lightly browned, about 2 minutes.
⅛ teaspoon kosher salt Sprinkle with green onion. Serve
⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper immediately with bread and additional
½ cup sliced green onion Green Chile-Garlic Butter.
French bread, to serve
P. 66
63 louisianacookin.com
TASSO-BRAISED GREENS 6 cups chicken broth Add garlic; cook until fragrant, about
MAKES 12 CUPS 1 pound chopped collard greens 1 minute. Add broth, and scrape
1 pound chopped kale browned bits from bottom of pot.
If cane vinegar and cane syrup aren’t ½ teaspoon kosher salt 2. Reduce heat to medium. Add
available, use distilled white vinegar and ½ teaspoon ground black pepper one-third of collard greens and
1 tablespoon molasses. Smoky bacon ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper one-third of kale, stirring until wilted.
may be used in place of tasso. 2 tablespoons cane vinegar Repeat with remaining collard greens
2 tablespoons cane syrup and remaining kale. Add salt, black
2 tablespoons vegetable oil pepper, and red pepper; bring to a
2 cups chopped onion 1. In a large stockpot, heat oil over boil. Reduce heat; cover and simmer
1 cup chopped tasso medium-high heat. Add onion and tasso; until tender, about 45 minutes. Stir in
3 cloves garlic, chopped cook until browned, about 5 minutes. vinegar and cane syrup.
T
he Bayou State has a universal reputation for exceptional dining—crisp linens or not. However,
there are few greater pleasures than honoring a special occasion with an exquisite meal. Whether
it’s an intimate birthday party, an engagement celebration, or simply just because, it goes without
saying that unique events require venues with a certain something to the atmosphere to help seal those
memories forever in the mind.
From New Orleans to Shreveport, we have selected a few of our favorite restaurants throughout the
state that represent the best when it comes to elevated dining experiences. Each one of these establishments
upholds a distinctly Louisiana approach to Southern hospitality coupled with a willingness to cleverly
innovate our state’s culinary traditions and continue to set them apart from the rest.
BRIGTSEN’S
1 New Orleans
Native New Orleanian Frank Brigtsen’s namesake
Riverbend neighborhood restaurant, co-owned
with his wife, Marna, is a Crescent City fine-dining
essential. Brigtsen’s menu draws heavily from both
Creole and Acadian culinary heritages to create
hyper-seasonal reinventions. Dishes such as Pan-
Fried Des Allemands Catfish prove seafood is a
shining star on Brigtsen’s ever-changing menu, and
the Filé Gumbo is a near-legendary recipe featuring
rabbit and andouille.
brigtsens.com
69 louisianacookin.com
COMMANDER’S PALACE
5 New Orleans
Nestled in a turquoise Victorian mansion
in New Orleans’ historic Garden District
is Commander’s Palace, a Crescent City
landmark for more than a century. The
iconic restaurant is world-famous for both
its celebratory atmosphere (think jazz
brunch and 25-cent martinis) and Chef
Tory McPhail’s menu of “Haute Creole”
delicacies, including staples such as the
Turtle Soup, Pecan Roasted Gulf Fish, and
Creole Bread Pudding Soufflé.
commanderspalace.com
7 8
71 louisianacookin.com
CLANCY’S
9 New Orleans
This popular restaurant in Uptown New Orleans is beloved for its menu of
French-Creole classics, neighborhood feel, and knowledgeable wait staff.
Start your meal with an order of the Fried Oysters with Brie and then dig into
delicacies like Smoked Soft Shell Crab with Crabmeat and Meuniere or the
Veal Chop with Roast Tomatoes and a Fresh Herb Demi Glace. And whatever
you do, make sure to finish with Clancy’s famous lemon icebox pie!
clancysneworleans.com
OXLOT 9
12 Covington
Chef Jeffrey Hansell’s Oxlot 9 is just inside downtown
Covington’s picturesque Southern Hotel. There, the 2015
Chef to Watch and his wife and partner, Amy, embrace the
art of Southern hospitality and showcase seasonal south
Louisiana ingredients. Jeffrey ensures Oxlot 9’s menu is
ever-evolving with yearly reinventions of his popular Steam
Pot, in addition to other dishes featuring fresh Gulf seafood
in its prime.
oxlot9.com
11 12
73 louisianacookin.com
S W E E TS
GOOEY
GOODNESS
photography by jim bathie | recipe development by laura crandall | styling by lucy finney
IS THERE ANY WEEKEND BREAKFAST more indulgent than warm cinnamon rolls covered in decadent cream
cheese icing? This recipe features smoky cane syrup mixed right into the dough for an unmistakably Louisiana flavor
and takes things to the next level by studding the swirls with chopped pecans. Whipping up a batch of these will
make for the ultimate start to any morning.
CANE SYRUP PECAN heat until mixture registers 120° to side, roll dough into a log; pinch seam
CINNAMON ROLLS 130° on an instant-read thermometer. to seal. Place seam side down; trim
MAKES 12 3. With mixer on low speed, slowly ends. Using a serrated knife, cut log
add warm milk mixture to flour into 12 rolls. Place rolls in prepared
Waking up is easy with these nutty mixture, beating until incorporated, pan, tucking ends under. Let rise in
cinnamon rolls slathered with cream about 30 seconds. Add eggs, beating a warm, draft-free place (75°) until
cheese icing. until combined. Switch to the dough puffed and rolls are touching,
hook attachment. Beat at low speed 45 minutes to 1 hour.
4½ cups all-purpose flour until dough is smooth and elastic, 8. Preheat oven to 350°.
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated about 12 minutes. (Dough will pull 9. Bake until a wooden pick inserted
sugar, divided away from sides of bowl but will stick in center comes out clean, 25 to
2 teaspoons kosher salt to bottom.) 30 minutes. Let cool in pan for
1 (0.25-ounce) package instant 4. Spray a large bowl with cooking 10 minutes. Spread Cane Cream
yeast spray. Turn out dough onto a lightly Cheese Icing onto rolls. Drizzle with
¾ cup whole milk floured surface, and shape into a cane syrup, if desired. Serve warm
½ cup unsalted butter smooth round. Place dough in bowl, or at room temperature.
⅓ cup cane syrup turning to grease top. Loosely cover
2 large eggs, room temperature and let rise in a warm, draft-free place CANE CREAM CHEESE ICING
and lightly beaten (75°) until doubled in size, about MAKES 1 CUP
¾ cup firmly packed light brown 1½ hours.
sugar 5. Spray a 13x9-inch baking pan 1 (8-ounce) package cream
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon with cooking spray. Line pan with cheese, softened
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, parchment paper, letting excess 1 tablespoon cane syrup
softened extend over sides of pan. ¼ cup confectioners’ sugar
¾ cup finely chopped pecans 6. Lightly punch down dough. Turn
Cane Cream Cheese Icing out dough onto a lightly floured 1. In a small bowl, whisk together
(recipe follows) surface, and roll into an 18x12-inch cream cheese and cane syrup until
Garnish: cane syrup rectangle. smooth. Whisk in confectioners’ sugar
7. In a small bowl, combine brown until smooth. Use immediately.
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted sugar, cinnamon, and remaining ¼ cup
with the paddle attachment, combine granulated sugar. Spread softened
flour, 1 tablespoon granulated sugar, butter onto dough, and sprinkle
salt, and yeast by hand. with sugar mixture, leaving a ½-inch
2. In a small saucepan, heat milk, border on one long side. Top with
butter, and cane syrup over medium pecans. Starting with opposite long
75 louisianacookin.com
Q U I C K & E ASY
WINNING BITES
photography by jim bathie | food styling by anita simpson spain | styling by lucy finney
FOR MANY IN LOUISIANA, fall weekends revolve around football and tailgating parties complete with an array of
delicious finger foods. These Boudin Egg Rolls are super simple to prepare and are great to have on hand for game days.
77 louisianacookin.com
OrDeR
ToDaY!
SoUtHeRn
BaRbEcUe & GrIlLiNg
OrDeR YoUr
CoPy ToDaY!
GRAPE VINES
& GOOD TIMES
by samantha moats
THERE IS SOMETHING ABOUT WINE that If tending to a vineyard was not already difficult
has a way of bringing people together. Jeff Landry of enough, Hurricane Katrina struck the Gulf Coast
Landry Vineyards calls it a fellowship drink. Fitting for three years after the Landrys bottled their first wine.
all seasons, the revered libation is often the mark of a After evacuating to West Monroe, Jeff and Libby
joyous celebration at hand. discovered their family felt at home there and decided
Twenty years ago, Jeff and his wife, Libby, planted to permanently relocate, vineyard and all.
their first grapes on 2 acres in Folsom, and within “We’d been coming up here for years, and people had
three years, their vineyard produced 10 tons of grapes. really embraced us,” says Jeff. “The land here was perfect
Initially, the harvest was intended for use by another in every way, and the weather conditions were much
winemaker, but at the last minute, that winery said it better for what we were doing.”
wouldn’t be buying the Landrys’ grapes. Relocating to the hill country of West Monroe
“What were we supposed to do with 10 tons of allowed them to expand Landry Vineyards from
grapes?” recalls Jeff. 2 acres to 20 acres, which also includes a winery, a
As luck would have it, a friend in the industry, tasting room, and plenty of space for special events.
Henry Amato of Amato’s Winery, helped by allowing This increase in acreage also allowed Landry
the Landrys to produce and bottle wine at his facility. Vineyards to expand its portfolio. The winery currently
The wine was licensed in 2002, and the Landrys sold produces 30,000 gallons of wine a year, including a
every bottle from that year and haven’t stopped since. variety of vintages such as blanc du bois, muscadine,
“We just kept growing one bit at a time,” says Jeff. rosé, merlot, port, and a number of other after-dinner
Although the idea of running a vineyard may wines, like their unique Madeira-style wine called
seem romantic, Jeff insists it isn’t all wine-sipping and Louisiana Heat.
merrymaking—though that certainly is an aspect of “We learned very early to make something for
it. Another aspect, he says, is cruder than the idealized everyone,” says Jeff. “The most rewarding part is making
dream of owning a vineyard. people happy and seeing them enjoy what we make.”
“That might surprise people that we do a lot of rough Whether the occasion is sweet, bitter, or somewhere
work,” Jeff shares, adding, “but as many have said, nothing in between, a bottle of wine on the table is cause for a
worthwhile comes easy.” celebration of togetherness.
79 louisianacookin.com
“YOU ONLY GET SO MANY VINTAGES IN YOUR
WHERE TO FIND IT
IN STORES
Landry Vineyards wines are widely available
in stores throughout Louisiana, including:
Rouses Supermarkets Walmart
Albertsons Cost Plus World Market
ONLINE
landryvineyards.com/shop
81 louisianacookin.com
JUNIPER-BRINED PORK 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, 4. In a large saucepan, melt 1 tablespoon
CHOPS WITH ORANGE- divided butter over medium-high heat. Add
LOUISIANA HEAT SAUCE ¼ cup thinly sliced shallot pork chops; cook, turning once,
MAKES 4 SERVINGS ¾ cup Landry Vineyards Louisiana until browned and an instant-read
Heat thermometer inserted in thickest
Combined with orange marmalade, ¼ cup orange marmalade portion registers 145°, about
the nutty aroma of Landry Vineyards Garnish: chopped fresh sage 8 minutes per side. Remove from
Louisiana Heat really shines through in pan. Cover with foil; keep warm.
this sauce. 1. In a large Dutch oven, bring 4 cups 5. Add shallot to pan; cook until
water, salt, brown sugar, sage, juniper tender, about 1 minute. Add Louisiana
4 cups water berries, and peppercorns to a simmer Heat; cook, scraping browned bits
2 tablespoons kosher salt over medium heat, stirring until sugar from bottom of pan with a wooden
2 tablespoons firmly packed dark is dissolved. Remove from heat, and spoon, until reduced by one-third,
brown sugar let cool to room temperature. about 3 minutes. Stir in marmalade
5 sprigs fresh sage 2. Transfer cooled brine to a large and remaining 1 tablespoon butter
1½ tablespoons juniper berries, plastic container. Add pork chops; until heated through, about 1 minute.
crushed cover and refrigerate for at least Serve sauce with pork chops. Garnish
1½ tablespoons black peppercorns, 2 hours or overnight. with sage, if desired.
crushed 3. Remove pork chops from
4 bone-in pork chops (about 1 inch container, discarding brine. Rinse
thick) pork under cold water, and pat dry.
Louisiana
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AC A D I A PA R I S H TO UR I ST C OM M I SS
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ADVERTISING
D F L A N K ST EA K
GRILLE
SERVES 4
1 (1½- to 2-pound) flank steak per side for medium rare, or until 2 teaspoons ground black
¼ cup olive oil desired degree of doneness. pepper
2 tablespoons Classic Cajun 1 teaspoon ground cumin
Seasoning (recipe follows) Classic Cajun Seasoning ½ teaspoon dry ground mustard
YIELDS ABOUT 2⁄3 CUP ½ teaspoon ground celery seed
ONE In a 1-gallon resealable plastic ½ teaspoon ground chipotle
bag, combine steak, olive oil, and 2 tablespoons salt chile pepper
Classic Cajun Seasoning. Toss to coat. 2 tablespoons garlic powder
Refrigerate for 8 to 24 hours. 2 tablespoons onion powder ONE In a small bowl, combine all
TWO Preheat grill to high heat 4 teaspoons Hungarian paprika ingredients. Transfer to a sealed
(400° to 450°). 2 teaspoons ground oregano container, and store for up to
THREE Grill steak for 3 to 4 minutes 2 teaspoons ground thyme 6 months.
presented by
LABEEFCOUNCIL.ORG
BY T H E BO O K
85 louisianacookin.com
OYSTER STEW 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped golden, about 4 minutes. Add onion
MAKES 8 SERVINGS ½ cup dry vermouth and salt; cook until tender, about
Adapted from The Little Local ¼ teaspoon ground white pepper 5 minutes. Add celery; cook until
New Orleans Cookbook 2 cups whole milk tender, about 5 minutes. Add garlic;
(Countryman Press, 2019) 2 cups heavy whipping cream cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.
50 to 60 Gulf oysters, shucked Add vermouth and white pepper;
This dish is an elegant and satisfying and liquid reserved, or ½ gallon cook until liquid has evaporated,
way to enjoy Louisiana oysters. preshucked oysters, liquid about 1 minute.
reserved 2. Stir in milk, cream, and reserved
¾ cup unsalted butter Garnish: chopped fresh parsley oyster liquid; bring to a simmer. Add
5 tablespoons all-purpose flour oysters; cook until edges curl, about
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped 1. In a 4-quart stockpot, melt butter 10 minutes. Ladle stew into bowls,
1 tablespoon kosher salt over medium heat. Add flour; cook, and garnish with parsley, if desired.
4 stalks celery, finely chopped whisking constantly, until roux is Serve immediately.
CO O K I N G W I T H
C H E FS TO WATC H
PIEROGI TRADITION
by caitlin watzke | photography by john o’hagan
Q What lessons did you learn from her about making pierogies, and
how have you made the recipe your own over the years?
Well, I learned that she wasn’t really doing it right. We were always
struggling to get the dough to be tender so that you can cut it with a
87 louisianacookin.com
fork, and we tried many different methods. We used beer, cane vinegar, and apple cider vinegar. I think it
no dairy in it. We tried to do sour cream. And then I cuts through the sweetness. I also love sage with sweet
realized years later that the trick was melted butter. potatoes, or any hearty herb like rosemary or thyme.
I think that sweet ingredients such as candied pecans
Q How do you experiment with pierogi fillings? and honey and brown sugar go with them as well.
Growing up, we always did potato and cheese. Or the
other option that we did was cooked-down sauerkraut. Q What’s your process for coming up with new recipes?
We would cook it down for a long time in butter and It usually comes from the ingredients the farmer has,
then all the sourness comes out. We also did dessert and a lot of times, things that are growing at the same
pierogies. We did one with something called lekvar, time just naturally pair well together, like the greens
which is prune butter. It’s dehydrated prunes that you and the sweet potatoes. Or just certain fish that’s readily
reconstitute with water and then purée. So, you could available always seems to pair with the vegetables that
boil them, bake them, fry them. You can do all different are available from the farmers.
things with them. So, I’ve just been trying to experiment
with them to see what other fillings I can put inside. Q Do you have any tips for making pierogies?
Yes, my number one tip is taking your time when you’re
Q What are some fillings you’ve experimented with? sealing them and making sure that you go back and
I’ve done farmer cheese, like a fresh cheese, which is re-pinch the edges. The last thing you want to do is
really delicious. I’ve also done ones with crawfish and spend all that time making the filling and the dough only
mashed potatoes. I’ve done them with apricot filling for to drop them in the water and find they weren’t sealed
more of a dessert flavor. properly. They just end up an empty piece of dough.
Q What inspired this recipe for Sweet Potato Pierogies? Q Is there any prep work you could do in advance?
I wanted to come up with a pierogi that could be You can do everything in advance. You can do the
vegetarian but could also be filling during the fall dough two days before. You can do the filling two days
months when we’re craving all of those heavier dishes, before. And once they’re made, boiled, cooled, and
and the sweet potatoes are in their prime peak. covered in oil, you can actually freeze them individually
on a sheet pan in the freezer and put them in a
Q What flavors pair well with sweet potatoes? resealable plastic bag and pull them out as you need
Well, I always think that anything with acid helps, so them. You can also make them smaller and do little
that’s why I paired it with the greens, which have Abita passed hors d’oeuvres.
89 louisianacookin.com
BY T H E BO O K
LIKE US ON FACEBOOK!
C. S. STEEN SYRUP MILL, INC.
119 North Main Street, Abbeville, LA 70510 | 337-893-1654 | STEENSYRUP.COM
www.laeggs.com
Louisiana Department of
Agriculture & Forestry
Mike Strain DVM Commissioner
INGREDIENTS to use in keeping the avocados upright for prepping and baking.
2 medium-size, firm, ripe avocados 2. SLICE the avocados and remove the pits. PLACE
2 tbsp. olive oil avocados inside the foil rings on the baking sheet and
4 large EGGS BRUSH with olive oil. SCOOP out a hole where the pit
Salt and Pepper was. Hole should be large enough to hold one broken egg.
1⁄2 tsp. ground pepper 3. BREAK an egg into the center of each of the avocados,
1⁄4 cup chopped fresh parsley being careful to keep the yolks intact. SPRINKLE with salt
and pepper.
DIRECTIONS 4. BAKE until egg whites are completely set and yolks begin
1. PREHEAT oven to 375°F. LINE a baking sheet with to thicken but are not hard, about 15 minutes.
aluminum foil. FORM 4 circular rings out of aluminum foil 5. TOP with parsley and ground pepper and serve.
INSIDER INFORMATION
Picture perfect baked avocado eggs: Separate egg whites from yolk. Using a spoon, first add the yolk to the avocado hole,
then add the egg whites to just cover the yolk. Slice off a small piece of the bottom of avocado to make it stand up straight.
Large size muffin tins can be used in place of a baking sheet and foil to keep them straight up and easier to fill.
NUTRITION INFORMATION: Per Serving: ¼ of recipe; Calories: 260; Total fat: 23g; Saturated fat: 3.5g; Polyunsaturated fat: 2g; Monounsaturated fat: 7g;
Cholesterol: 186mg; Sodium: 140mg; Carbohydrates: 8g; Dietary fiber: 3g; Protein: 9g; Sugar: 0g; Vitamin A: 81mcg; Vitamin D: 1mcg; Folate: 24mcg;
Calcium: 30mg; Iron: 1.9mg; Choline: 147mg; Potassium: 425mg
FAMIILY TREE
by crystal pavlas
Resident Bartender Crystal Pavlas is the head bartender at Chef Nina Compton’s Bywater American Bistro in New Orleans.
A Louisiana native and veteran mixologist, Crystal previously worked at Compère Lapin.
93 louisianacookin.com
A PERFECT PEARING
MAKES 1
Recipe Index
Appetizers Pickled Okra and Red Onion Salad with
Boudin Egg Rolls, 77 Creole Mustard Dressing, 66
Shrimp Toast, 26 Sweet Potato Pierogies with Braised
Beverages Greens, 89
A Perfect Pearing, 94 Tasso-Braised Greens, 64
Satsuma Mule, 54 White Cheddar Corn Grits, 23
Breads
Smoked Paprika and Buttermilk
RESOURCES
Cornbread, 66
Spillin’ the Beans: Photos courtesy of
Breakfast Costera (page 11); Sara Essex Bradley
Cane Cream Cheese Icing, 75 (Thalia, page 11); Jo Webb (MID Tap,
Cane Syrup Pecan Cinnamon Rolls, 75 page 11); W. W. Norton & Company
Desserts (Gumbo Life: Tales from the Roux Bayou
Mini Satsuma Vanilla Bundt Cakes, 58 by Ken Wells, page 15); Bumsteers
Satsuma Glaze, 58 (page 15); Sam Hanna (Claret Wine and
Skillet Pecan and Chocolate Blondies, 66 Cocktail Bar, page 15); Brandt Vicknair
(Copper Vine, page 17); Louisiana
Meat, Game, and Poultry Sugar Cane Festival (page 19); and
Juniper-Brined Pork Chops with Shreveport-Bossier Convention &
Orange-Louisiana Heat Sauce, 82 Visitors Bureau (Red River Revel Arts
Roasted Goose with Baked Apples, 28 Festival, page 19).
Satsuma-Lacquered Quail, 57 Louisiana Foodways: Pages 29–30:
Sauces, Seasonings, and Condiments Photos courtesy of Boone Clemmons,
Green Chile-Garlic Butter, 62 Seersucker Studios.
Spicy Crème Fraîche, 89 Dining to the Nines: Photos courtesy
of Chris Granger (Bayona and Ralph’s
Seafood on the Park, page 69); Shreveport-
Curried Sweet Potato and Shrimp Soup, 21 Bossier Convention & Visitors Bureau
Garlic Shrimp and Grits, 23 (Bella Fresca, page 69); Commander’s
Oyster Stew, 86 Palace (page 70); Sara Essex Bradley
Roasted Oysters with Green (Tableau, page 71); Golden Nugget Lake
BellaCopper Chile-Garlic Butter, 62
Satsuma-Glazed Shrimp and Braised
Charles (page 71); Cristiano Ristorante
(page 71); Eugenia Uhl (Clancy’s, page
Pork Belly, 55 72); and Mansurs on the Boulevard
Solid Copper Heat Satsuma and Shrimp Salad, 58
Seared Tuna with Spicy Noodles, 58
(page 73).
By the Book: Page 85: Photo from The
Diffusers & Shrimp and Andouille Jambalaya, 66 Little Local New Orleans Cookbook by
Shrimp and Andouille Pastalaya, 25
Defroster Plates Vegetables and Side Dishes
Stephanie Jane Carter (Countryman
Press, 2019).
Braised Greens, 89
TRADITIONAL RECIPES
c INSPIRED TWISTS