Canadian Jeweller November 2010 Issue

NOVEMBER 2010
for the business of retailing jewellery
Reclaiming the Throne

Fashion Forward Canadian mining
A whole new market, a is back on
All About
PUBLICATIONS MAIL 40678000 | 60 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1106, TORONTO ON, M4W 3B8 | $25
whole new demographic
Hot Like Fire
Bogart’s
Carrera y Carrera shares
smart business strategies
New Alloys Market

The metals of Richard Rooney of Bogart’s
the moment Jewellers in Newfoundland
PLUS:
ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS
001.CJ_Cover.indd 2 10/27/10 2:20:54 PM

Behind every “They’re perfect,” there’s a great jeweller.
And behind every great jeweller, there’s Stuller.
Red Box Diamonds® from Stuller are the clearest choice in diamonds,
guaranteed. They help you come through for your customers and reinforce the
trust you’ve built throughout the purchasing experience. With our proven
track record of accurate and consistent grading standards, our reliable delivery,
and extensive inventory, Stuller is the only diamond supplier you’ll
ever need to be a hero in the eyes of your customers. To learn more, call us at
For Details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 81

800-877-7777, call our Toronto office at 416-955-0707,
or visit stuller.com. That’s the beauty of it all.
The DTC logo is a trademark used under license from DTC.
CJ_NOV_Stuller.indd 1 10/22/10 9:55:57 AM

Fluorescence
Measurements
Certificate
RappaporT
Symmetry
Stock #
Clarity
Colour
Weight
Polish
Shape
Depth
Table
Make
802B+4 1.22 CUSHION FIY VS1 6.67x5.63x4.02 71.4 58.0 EX G FAINT N/A GIA VG
1014B+3 1.12 OVAL FIY VS1 6.70x5.11x4.01 78.5 54.0 VG G MED BLUE N/A GIA VG
70 1.75 RBC F SI2 7.73x7.78x4.73 61.0 56.2 EX G NONE -30% HW VG
696E 1.50 PRINCESS F VVS2 6.17x6.19x4.67 75.6 75.6 VG G NONE -30% HW VG
119 1.33 RBC E I1 7.23x7.20x4.25 58.8 60.9 G G NONE -20% HW VG
725A+12 1.07 PRINCESS E VVS2 5.73x5.80x3.91 68.1 75.1 VG G NONE -35% HW G
686 3.58 CUSHION H SI2 9.79x8.22x5.66 68.7 59.6 G G NONE -40% HW G
691+1 2.01 RADIANT I VS2 6.88x7.20x4.80 69.4 68.8 G G NONE -35% HW G
2118 1.46 EMERALD D INF 8.32x5.28x3.69 69.8 68.0 VG VG NONE -20% HW VG
213E 1.01 RBC F I1 6.41x6.44x3.99 62.1 56.3 VG G NONE -30% HW EX
89 1.66 RBC H SI2 7.70x7.78x4.50 58.0 60.3 VG VG NONE -35% HW G
2029 1.01 RBC D SI1 6.26x6.35x4.05 64.2 57.2 EX G NONE -30% HW VG
25C 2.17 RBC E SI2 8.33x8.40x5.06 60.4 57.0 VG VG NONE -40% HW G
71 1.92 RBC F I1 8.14x8.18x4.84 59.4 59.5 VG VG NONE -50% HW VG
29A 2.65 RBC F I1 8.72x8.76x5.43 62.0 61.0 VG VG NONE -30% HW VG
25 2.33 RBC E SI2 8.45x8.51x5.27 62.1 59.8 EX VG NONE -25% HW VG

7 4.06 RBC I VS1 9.90x9.96x6.55 66.2 60.3 G G NONE -38% HW G
937 1.83 MARQ E SI2 13.44x6.18x3.79 61.4 60.3 VG EX NONE -25% HW VG
950A 1.38 PEAR D I1 9.57x6.25x4.09 65.6 52.2 VG G NONE -25% HW EX
922 3.05 PEAR I SI1 12.32x8.23x5.17 62.8 59.2 VG VG NONE -40% HW VG
Canada’s REAL Diamond House.

Our Diamonds MAKE you want to come back.
To add your name to our mailing list please forward your request to:
sales@sapirdiamonds.com
Radiant Stone 55 Queen St. E. Suite 501, Toronto, Ontario M5C 1R6 Round Stone
5.01 ct Phone: 416-863-6036/7 Toll Free: 1-866-387-1759 Fax: 416-863-0671 5.05 ct
SI1, I, VG www.SapirDiamonds.com SI1, D, VG
CJ_NOV_SAPIR.indd 1 10/22/10 11:01:29 AM

An Ounce of Prevention
is Worth 2,267.9 Carats of Cure.
Arm yourself with knowledge and tools to protect your business.

Get your 2011 Crime Prevention Package:
• Access to a database on criminal activity • Alerts on jewellery crime in Canada
• Crime Prevention Manual CD • Access to JVC Security Library
• Crime Prevention Bulletins on effective security procedures
Sign up now at www.jewellerycrimecanada.ca or call 1-800-636-9536
Jewellers Vigilance Canada

An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the Canadian jewellery industry.
CriMe PreVention • reSourCe ProteCtion • SAfety AwAreneSS
For details, write #109 on Free Info Page, page 81
000.CJ.Nov10_JVC.indd
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JVC ad1 122009F.indd 10/22/10
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J E W E L L E R T O D A Y.
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Make your customers aware of Personal Jewelry Insurance from Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company and you just might
save the day! To learn how you can share information about Jewelers Mutual’s Personal Jewelry Insurance program with your customers,
visit JewelersMutual.ca. To order materials, click the “Canadian retailers” link in the lower left corner of the homepage.
*Personal Jewelry Insurance not available in Québec.
800-558-6411 • JewelersMutual.ca
YourInsuranceExpert@jminsure.ca
E X C L U S I V E LY
ENDORSED BY
CJ_NOV_JewelersMutual.indd 1 10/22/10 11:02:54 AM

O ver 700 major designers and manufacturers from SPONSORED BY:
around the world will showcase the latest jewelry designs.

Retailers will be dazzled by the most trend-forward collections
PRESENTED BY:
showcased at the Winter Show and find ideas that will
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QUESTIONS please call 646.654.4983
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CJ_NOV_JANY.indd 1 10/22/10 1:24:33 PM

BASELWORLD
THE WATCH AND JEWELLERY SHOW
MARCH 24 – 31, 201 1
WWW.BASELWORLD.COM
bsw11_kamp_229x276_e.indd 1 12.08.10 15:28

CJ_BG_BaselWorld.indd 1 10/22/10 11:03:34 AM
Established 1879 NOVEMBER 2010 • vol. 131, no. 7
Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com

Lucy Holden Associate Publisher | lucy@rivegauchemedia.com
Carol Besler Editor
Paul Aguirre Associate Editor | paul@rivegauchemedia.com
Scott Jordan Art Director | scott@rivegauchemedia.com
Elena Viltovskaia Designer | graphics@rivegauchemedia.com
Stacy Karjala Designer | material@rivegauchemedia.com
Elizabeth Valiaho Production Coordinator | production@rivegauchemedia.com
Barry Hales Accounting and Administration | finance@rivegauchemedia.com
Daniel Hare Administration Coordinator | dan@rivegauchemedia.com
Erin Poredos Sales Assistant | erin@gorgmgo.com
CONTRIBUTORS Kim Goodyear, Martin Irving, Edward T. Krupka,

Charles Lewtin-Brian, David Maus-Berkley,
Lorraine de Pasque, Bonnie Siegler.
sales
Lucy Holden Associate publisher
tel .
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tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122
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Change of Address
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or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller c/o Publication Partners, 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101, Pickering, ON Canada L1V 1A1
Published by Rive Gauche Media II Inc.
Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all
representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not
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Official magazine of JVC
8 CJ november 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
008.CJ_Masthead.indd 8 10/27/10 10:02:25 AM

Original Italian Design
• Handmade, wooden watches
• Eco-sustainable, unique design
• Quartz face by Citizen Woody
watch&glasses
• Complete line of styles and colours

• Unbelievably lightweight
Time to Get Back to Nature

Contact official Canadian distributor at 416 409 3855 or email to info@plastichic.ca
CJ_Full_Page_WoodyAD_V2.indd 1 10-10-01 1:44 PM
CJ_NOV_CoolStuff.indd 1 10/22/10 11:04:09 AM

table of
Contents
November
Features
44 All About Bogart’s

How Richard Rooney unleashed his inner Humphrey
Bogart and founded a retail chain in Eastern Canada. 56
50 Heavy Metal
From PVD to DLC, here is a glossary of materials
used both in jewellery production and watch cases.
52 Capitalizing on Kids
The youth market: courting the clients of the future.
56 Affordable Luxury: The New fashion jewellery

Well-rendered base metals and semi-precious stones
are fast becoming a jewellery industry staple.
50
44
10 CJ NOVEMBER 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
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table of
Contents
November
22
Departments
14 Letter from the Guest Editor
16 Product Showcase
22 Star Watch
24
Who’s News
64 Designer Profile
Saskatchewan jeweller helps raise 1.8 million; Carrera y Carrera.
Montreal designer goes global.
68 JVC Feature
28 For The Record
N ew e-marketing software launches; Hublot opens 70 What’s On
two stores.
34 Stock Index 72 Showcase
36 Mining Feature 78 Marketplace

Reclaiming the Throne.
40 Bench Feature
81 Fax Back
Burr tricks for setters.

82 Last Word
60 Company Profile
PH Design.
60 64
010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 12 11/1/10 10:18:09 AM

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letterfromguesteditor
Here’s looking
at Bogart’s
When Bogart’s Jewellers sent us an email to chat about
its ethusiastic fundraising campaign for the Cancer Care
Foundation in Newfoundland, we were intrigued. Once we
got talking, it became apparent that not only is this East-
coast retailer dedicated to charitable work, but also stands
committed to a level of customer service that goes above and
beyond the call of duty. Owner Richard Rooney’s story about
his staff ’s hot pursuit of a ringless bridegroom on his mutable
wedding day is one of the best stories we’ve heard in years.
No less intriguing is Rooney’s idiosycratic philosophy of

name designation: Bogart’s is a tribute to Rooney’s favourite
actor, particularly his role in a fi lm everyone recognizes as
a classic, which corresponds exactly with the image Rooney
wanted to associate with his jewellery stores.
Finally, in an age when pundits and retail specialists

are pronouncing the death of the middle market, Bogart’s
is proof that the mid-market is not only alive and well in
Canada, but thriving, and that the mom-and-pop jeweller is
here to stay. We are proud to feature Bogart’s on the cover of
this issue, and wish retailers across Canada an exceptional
Holiday 2010.
The Editorial Team
014.CJ_GuestEditor.indd 14 11/1/10 10:27:40 AM

YOUR COMBINATION OF MOMENTS IS A
UNIQUE CELEBRATION OF WHO YOU ARE.
FIND THE NEW MOMENTS AT PANDORA.NET
OR AT YOUR NEAREST PANDORA STORE.
U.S. Pat. No. 7,007,507 • • © • All rights reserved
CJ_NOV_Pandora.indd 1 10/22/10 11:06:50 AM

productshowcase
Breanna Collection: Custom Look with Tecno Displays

Breanna represents the women who believes she is special as she is. Tecno Displays vast collection of modular and pre-assembled glass
Determined, passionate about life, design and perfection, Breanna is jewelry showcases fit any budget and accommodate any showcase
what every woman wants to be. She has found the love of her life and layout floor design. Utilizing high quality standards, we produce
now needs to choose The Ring. But how to find the perfect ring in a a range of modern, practical, reliable and attractive value priced
crowded market place where everyone claims to have the perfect ring showcases. We supply solid wood veneer showcases with various
for you. That is why we designed the Breanna Collection. A collection stains and accent moldings that fit your image, needs and price
where every model is unique. Every future bride will find a ring that comfort. Tecno Display showcases are now available in Canada
will fit her personality and taste. Come to the world of Breanna and through Westmount Store Fixtures. Call 1-800-561-1951 or visit
join the women who enjoys the beauty and quality of this magnificent www. westmountstorefixtures.com for more information. For
collection. For more information, write 140 on the Free Info Card on more information, write 141 on the Free Info Card on page 81.
page 81.
Polar Gem
Polar Gem is the first Eco-friendly Canadian diamond collection
featuring renewed gold, with an identifiable diamond source,
guaranteed by a mine of origin certificate. The Polar Gem is the perfect
round brilliant diamond, cut to ideal proportions and symmetry, with Low Cost Luxury
perfectly aligned facets, creating a flame-like quality reaching the Perfect pair of earrings and pendant in 14k gold. Richness of colour
highest level for a diamond polished, with one of a kind phenomenon and style give the classic look to this diamond set. Our promise
of sparkle and light “hearts and arrows”. For more information, write “quality for less”. For more information, write 143 on the Free Info
142 on the Free Info Card on page 81. Card on page 81.
016-021.CJ_Product.indd 16 11/1/10 10:14:58 AM

CJ_BG_Name.indd 1
10/22/10 11:07:56 AM
productshowcase
Personal Jewelry Insurance

Order your free Jeweller Guide for a full explanation of the
Personal Jewelry Insurance program from Jewelers Mutual
Insurance Company, the only insurer that specializes exclusively
in protecting jewellery and jewellery businesses in Canada* and CHIAMPESAN
the United States. (The Personal Jewelry Insurance program is This company has a concept that summarizes almost 50 Years of
not available in Quebec.) Also, be sure to order a supply of our Values that Chiampeasan has never lost sight of. Beauty, elegance
newly designed consumer handout. Exclusively endorsed by the and Style are the corner stone for all its activities. To create jewels
Canadian Jewellers Association, the American Gem Society, and that can be worn in any occasion. All 18 KT and real stones. For
the Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of America. For more more information, write 145 on the Free Info Card on page 81.
information, write 144 on the Free Info Card on page 81.
Ed Hardy Brand Jewelry

Ed Hardy is the Godfather of modern tattoo. Ed Hardy is recognized
around the world for his technical brilliance and mesmerizing
imagery. His broad spectrum of taste and experience, coupled
with an ongoing investigation of various art histories and a
mastery of technique, give his work a unique range and depth. His
creations have now been modeled into a very successful jewellery
line which caters to many age groups. You have the pre-teens and BASELWORLD – The World Watch and Jewellery Show
teens who look towards colourful and playful items. Then there Preparations for BASELWORLD 2011 (March 24 to 31, 2011) have
are the clubbers who are always looking for the newest avant- been successfully launched. All the eminent brands will be present
garde fashion pieces in stainless steel. There is also an exquisite in Basel once again next spring to showcase their latest collections.
and tasteful silver line which is best suited for the socialites and BASELWORLD – Where Business Begins and Trends are Created. For
modern entrepreneur. To carry the Ed-Hardy line of jewellery in more information, write 147 on the Free Info Card on page 81.
your store, contact us at: 514-875-8675, info@edhardyjewelry.ca,
www.edhardyjewelry.ca For more information, write 146 on the
Free Info Card on page 81.

CJ_NOV_123 Proto.indd 1
10/22/10 11:09:33 AM
PlastiChic - Back to Nature
PlastiChic is retreating back to nature in the most fashionable way
possible. Introducing a line of eco-sustainable luxury watches made
entirely from wood. Each watch is handmade and complete with quartz
technology from Miyota by Citizen. By combining contemporary
watch styles with a material that has been used since the beginning of
time, PlastiChic is creating a juxtaposition of style that is completely
BFly silver Kids collection
unique. The wooden material makes it an essential timepiece for your
BFLY is launching a NEW silver birthstone collection for kids.
collection. Designed for both men and women, the Woody comes
Nice quality products with rhodium plating. This very affordable
in a variety of styles and colours and the lightweight feature allows
collection includes the pendants with 14” chains, rings & the stud
for a high-end watch that won’t weigh down the wrist. The Woody
earrings with their patented safety clutches. You can now offer both
is the perfect accessory to lighten the load of heavy fall and winter
silver and gold settings to your customers! For more information,
wardrobes. Please call 416.409.3855 or contact info@plastichic.ca. For
write 148 on the Free Info Card on page 81.
more information, write 149 on the Free Info Card on page 81.
Pandora
PANDORA expands its universe of jewellery with the introduction
Image Fifth Ave. of Black Crown Diamond, a collection of Swiss-made watches with
A Tsavorite 5.90 ct with a distinctive pleasant minty green colour. Sapphire crystal and genuine diamonds and a single, rose-cut black
Set in a hand made 18k white gold ring. Enhanced by round and diamond on the crown of each timepiece. Interchangeable bezels
marquise diamonds .63ct. This ring is part of a set that also has and straps allow women to compose a unique personal timepiece
earrings. For more information, write 150 on the Free Info Card that can be tailored to the occasion and the woman’s individual
on page 81. style. For more information, write 151 on the Free Info Card on
page 81.

productshowcase
New Bridal Styles from Stuller

Mirage/Nova We now offer a vast selection of bridal jewelry in all the latest styles,
Nova’s stunning white diamond bangles will add a glamorous as well as unique selling tools such as comprehensive prototype
touch to any lady’s collection. If 37 carats of VS-SI quality merchandising solutions and wedding band engraving services.
diamonds aren’t enough, then the option of a 57-carat version is Wow is the word that we hope comes to mind after viewing our
available (Pictured). The thickness varies from 25mm to 33mm newest bridal settings. We’re excited about the new line and hope
depending on the selection. Contact Nova Diamonds for further that you-and of course; your customers will be too. To see the full
inquiries. Ref: DBN8-225, DBN8-226. Tel #: (416)868-6682. For collection, visit stuller.com. For more information, write 153 on
more information, write 152 on the Free Info Card on page 81. the Free Info Card on page 81.
PH Design Polar Ice Canadian Diamonds

The FINGERPRINT Wedding Band is a romantic metaphor for the What a delight these Canadian diamond earrings will be under
love you and your partner share for one another. Wear your love’s the tree this Christmas. The earrings are available in 0.10, 0.15,
finger print as a heartfelt expression of your devotion. For more 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, and 0.60 total carat weights. These stunning
information or a quote on this unique design, call PH Design at 416 earrings are part of the new Polar Ice Canadian Diamond Program.
367-2870 or visit www.phdesign.ca.. For more information, write For more information please call toll free 1-877-877-9446. For more
154 on the Free Info Card on page 81. information, write 155 on the Free Info Card on page 81.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m november 2010 CJ 21

starwatch
Winter Winners
Our top picks from the red carpets
and runways this fall.
by bonnie siegler
Over at New York Fashion

Week, Jessica Lowndes
chose Baccarat’s 18k
white gold and crystal
square Bouchons de
Carafe ring for the Lela
Rose show ($5,800), while Jessica Simpson wore
Bavna’s large teardrop diamond earrings with gold
rim ($7,500) to accessorize at the Project Runway Show
on day one of New York Fashion Week.
At the 62nd Annual Primetime Emmy Awards, the stars sparkled as

bright as their jewellery. Carrie Ann Inaba chose Amrapali’s rose-
cut diamond earrings ($10,000) and Victorian rose cut diamond
ring ($1,860). She also wore the same earrings the night before
the Emmys at the L’Oreal Paris Cocktail Reception. Also
seen on Rosario Dawson’s ears were the same
Amrapali’s rose-cut diamond earrings – a
Katy Perry always dazzles, but big fave in Hollywood right now. Also at
especially when she attended the Video the Emmys Lara Spencer chose Carrera
Music Awards wearing an M.C.L. by y Carrera Gardenia earrings ($9,300)
Matthew Campbell Laurenza 3D Pavé Heart and a Bavra 18k black-gold bracelet
ring ($1,140) and Sutra rose-cut diamond with rose-cut diamonds and turquoise
earrings ($4,700). gemstones ($22,700). Rosario Dawson
22 CJ november 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m Note: All prices in $US amounts unless otherwise stated.
024-025.CJ_StarWatch_rev1.indd 22 11/1/10 10:09:48 AM

starwatch
On the America’s Got Talent

finale show, performer Sarah
Brightman chose a necklace
from the Kazanjian Bros.
AGTA Collection, made of 18k
white gold with diamonds (70
carats) and blue sapphires (34
carats) worth over $84,000.
A new accessory is showing up on the wrists of Lo Bosworth,

Katy Perry and Jessalyn Gilsig –Vahan’s stunning silver
and gold bracelets. Jessalyn wore chose the 14k gold and
sterling-silver, diamond and onyx bracelet ($2,000) to wear
to the Fox Fall Eco-Casino Party. Katy wore Vahan’s 14k
gold and sterling-silver bracelets with diamonds and cognac
quartz ($2,100).

024-025.CJ_StarWatch_rev1.indd 23 11/1/10 10:39:32 AM

who’snews
Find out who is

making headlines in
the jewellery industry.
Saskatchewan Jeweller
Helps Raise 1.8 Million
When the Humboldt Distinct Hospital
Foundation approached jeweller Michelle
Bankowski to co-chair a project to raise
1.8 million dollars for equipment for a new
healthcare facility 20 years in the making,
she was all ears. One of the major projects of
the campagin was to hold the area’s first-
nt the final cheque.
ever Have a Heart Marathon, starting 42km Bankowski (number 47) about to prese
outside of Humboldt. To make things more
interesting, Bankowski publicly challenged appearance, along with Elon Musk, Chairman De Beers Announces Leadership
fi nancial adviser Phil Smith to run the half and CEO of Tesla Motors. The brand joined Changes in South Africa
marathon and see who could raise the most forces with Tesla Motors, the legendary Barend Petersen has been appointed executive
money (dubbed by the community as the electric sports car company, to create the one- chairman of the company’s South African
“Diamonds vs. Dollars” challenge). “Everyday of-a-kind TAG Heuer Tesla Roadster. Th is mining operation, De Beers Consolidated Mines
I made a couple calls and most days I raised fully electric, emissions-free car is outfitted (DBCM). Petersen will take over from Nicky
significantly more than my [initial] goal of with a Heuer limited-edition one-fi ft h second Oppenheimer, who served as Chairman for 12
$200 a day. I have to say that the jewellery stopwatch. Additionally, a special console years. Oppenheimer will continue to sit on the
industry suppliers and fellow jewellers houses the ground-breaking TAG Heuer Board of DBCM and serve as chairman of the
were very generous. I really appreciated the Pendulum Concept, a timepiece operated by wider De Beers Group. As executive chairman
support,” said Bankowski. “I think the reason the world’s first magnetic oscillator without of DBCM, Petersen assumes the company’s most
for my success is that I started my fundraising a hairspring. There was also an exhibition senior role and will represent the De Beers Family
immediately, I had a plan and got out of the of key historical and current TAG Heuer of Companies in South Africa. He will focus on
gate first. It turned out to be quite easy to product that underscores the brand’s passion the strategic positioning and growth of DBCM
raise the $43,000 because I simply applied for revolutionizing timekeeping. Highlights and will continue building on the De Beers
my business skill and it paid off.” Th is first include: the Time of Trip (first dashboard family of companies. Prior to the appointment,
marathon attracted over 300 runners and chronograph), the Mikrograph (first Petersen had been serving as the acting-CEO of
raised over $110,000 in one day. stopwatch accurate to 1/100th of a second), DBCM. De Beers therefore announces that Philip
the Monaco (first-ever self-winding automatic Barton, DBCM finance director, will become
TAG Heuer celebrates chronograph with micro rotor), the Monaco CEO of DBCM. Barton is highly qualified for the
“The Odyssey of Pioneers” V4 (world’s first patented belt-driven watch position, having worked for De Beers for more
TAG Heuer’s year-long celebration of its 150th movement) and the Carrera Calibre 1887 than 20 years, gathering a wealth of operational
anniversary continued in Malibu with much Chronograph (first TAG Heuer watch to be experience across a number of mining operations
fanfare and celebrity-spotting, including powered by the brand’s new Calibre 1887 and business functions. Having been an integral
Twilight star Kellan Lutz, True Blood leading chronograph movement). The TAG Heuer part of DBCM’s journey during the past several
actor Joe Manganiello, Johnny Galecki of Tesla Roadster will travel to London and then years, Barton brings a clear understanding of the
Big Bang Theory and Tim Daly of Private Paris for the fi nal leg of its global journey. At company’s operations and production profile, and
Practice. Renaud Dutreil, Chairman of LVMH the Odyssey’s completion, the car will have will advance work already underway to maximise
Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, also made an traveled more than 25,000 miles over. the value of DBCM’s mining portfolio.
024-026.CJ_WhosNews.indd 24 11/1/10 10:18:42 AM

cjPolarGem Aug10 Ad.indd 1 10/22/10 11:18:21 AM

who’snews
st.
Luc Kieffer (left) and gue
tos by Phi l Bir nba um .
Pho
professional background also includes roles

as the CEO of All Clad/Spring Switzerland
and the president and CEO of Fissler/AMC Noam Carver.
North America, a leading manufacturer of
kitchen and household products. Diamanthandel (Antwerp Diamond Bourse)
and over the years held various posts at the
Parisian Designer Montreal Designer Goes Global diamond exchange and at the Federation of
Makes Canadian Debut Award-winning Canadian designer Noam Belgian Diamond Bourses. In 1982, he was
Paris-based designer Luc Kieffer touched Carver has joined forces with jewellery house elected a board member of the HRD (Diamond
down in Toronto for the fi rst time to show Crown Ring to launch his eponymous brand High Council), the umbrella organization
Canadian audiences his newest collection. globally. Carver, known for his fashion- that represented the Belgian diamond center,
Since working with Yves Saint Laurent on his forward designer jewellery (and a past winner which was restructured into the Antwerp
fi nal collection in 1996, Keiffer has worked of CJ’s Excellence in Design competition), World Diamond Center (AWDC) in 2006. He
with fashion houses Balenciaga, Chanel, believes this partnership is the next step was elected as its president in 2004, and after
Louis Vuitton and Sonia Rykiel. Although towards building a world-renowned brand. retiring from the position earlier this year
he has no Canadian retailers at the moment, Last February, Carver was awarded a select was named the AWDC honorary president.
Kieffer launched his label in 2006 and was in spot as an emerging designer at the exclusive In 2005 he was decorated with the title of
town to showcase high-polished resin pieces Centurion show in Tucson. Crown Ring, Commander in the Order of Leopold II by
he hopes to officially launch in Canada in established in wedding band and bridal King Albert II. “We are indeed privileged to
2011. With showrooms in Paris and New segments, is extremely excited about this new have an individual with Jacky’s breadth of
York, his accessories are revered for their partnership. “Noam Carver is the next big knowledge and experience on the WDC board
colour, luminosity and the distinct sparkle of jewellery designer; his vision and expertise is of directors,” said Izhakoff. “I am confident
Swarovski crystal, with varying collections unmatched in the industry, and he brings a that he will play a valuable role in helping the
that appeal to a wide range of styles. Each fresh and avant-garde approach to jewellery WDC fulfi ll its valuable mission.” [CJ]
piece is handcrafted in France, affording a design,” says representative Th ierry Bellisha.
true artisan touch, and making each one Under the Noam Carver label, the line will
slightly different. target fashion-forward consumers and
include pieces for both men and women.
Victorinox Swiss Army Announces
North American President Jacky Roth Appointed to
Rene Stutz, former president of a German WDC Board of Directors
cutlery company, will join the North Jacky Roth, the veteran diamond industry
American Team as president of Victorinox leader from Belgium, has officially gained
Swiss Army, Inc. “I am delighted that we have a seat on the World Diamond Council
found someone who not only has a strong Board. Roth’s appointment was proposed
proven track record across all disciplines by the presidents of all four Belgian
within our cutlery industry, but also who diamond exchanges, who were joined by
embodies our company values. I know his WDC President Eli Izhakoff. Roth began
passion, determination and focused direction his public service career in the Antwerp
will bring business growth,” says founding diamond industry in 1979 when he was
family member Charles Elsener. His fi rst elected to the board of the Beurs voor Jacky Roth.
024-026.CJ_WhosNews.indd 26 11/1/10 10:20:38 AM

Finished Jewellery & Loose Diamonds
Nova Diamonds Inc.
221 Victoria St. Lower Level
Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4
Phone: 416-868-6682 Fax: 416-868-0666
CJ_NOV_Nova.indd 1 10/22/10 11:17:32 AM

news | trends | events
New E-Marketing with a uniquely identified and patented announced that it has signed a cooperative
Software Launches aGQa Consumer Protection Card, assuring agreement with IDEX Online. According
KGK Jewelry, an affiliate of KGK consumers that what they will own is to the agreement, EQC retailers will
Enterprises, has launched the KGK exactly what it claims to be –an assurance gain access to IDEX Online’s direct and
E-lectrifed MARKeTING Campaign, an guaranteed and underwritten by JMIC transparent polished diamond trading
automated e-marketing software solution, (Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company), platform. EQC in turn will provide the
designed for independent jewellery retailers. the industry’s leading insurance carrier. online trading platform with educational
This fully customized and fully automated This new program aims to solve the two and instructional tools that will assist
software package makes it possible for every most compelling questions that virtually jewellery manufacturers and retailers to
jeweller engaged in the campaign to select every independent jeweller confronts when become more competitive and increase
their merchandise reflecting the needs of searching for solid e-marketing solutions: their sales. EQC is a European marketing
their specific markets and clientele. The how to secure the customers’ e-mail and consumer-oriented organization
campaign supports the firm’s core business address, and how to be most effective once that provides jewellery retailers with a
approach by providing to independent the email addresses are obtained. portfolio of professional and educational
jewellery retailers the essential strategic services, designed to increase sales, improve
marketing tools needed to compete EQC and IDEX Online sign profitability and enhance consumer
successfully with nationally recognized cooperative agreement confidence in the jewellery retailers and
jewellery brands. Every piece is delivered The European Quality Circle (EQC) their products. With this cooperation
agreement, the EQC Buyers’ Groups not
only gain access to a $4-billion polished
diamond inventory, but also improve their
competitive edge by being able to buy
directly from diamond manufacturers from
around the world and compare prices like
never before in the diamond industry – only
on the IDEX Online trading platform.
Kimberley Process Agreement

on Zimbabwe Diamonds
The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC)
welcomes the agreement reached by the
Kimberley Process (KP) that will enable the
renewal of rough diamond exports from
New this year, the fair’s World Brand Piazza features limited- the Marange diamond fields in Zimbabwe.
edition timepiees from internationally known brands. The agreement was reached during the
World Diamond Council Meeting in St.
Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair Offers New Attractions Petersburg on recent. “The RJC Code of
The world’s largest watch and clock trade event, the HKTDC Hong Kong Practices includes four provisions requiring
Watch & Clock Fair, celebrated 700 exhibitors from 14 countries and regions conformance with the Kimberley Process
last month. The fair had 68 buying missions from 64 countries and regions. Certification Scheme (KPCS) for rough
In the first half of 2010, Hong Kong exported watches and clocks valued at diamonds. Full compliance with the KPCS
more than US$3.14-billion. “The Brand Name Gallery, which features about is vital for RJC Members and for the entire
100 brands, is a fair centerpiece,” according to fair organising committee jewellery industry. As part of the RJC
co-chairman Joseph Chu. The Brand Name Gallery’s wine cellar, also played certification process, RJC Members will
host to fashion shows throughout the fair period. Models wore selected undergo independent, third party auditing
timepieces at 10 fashion parades. In addition to established brands, finalist of their relevant business practices to
and prize-winning entries from this year’s Hong Kong Watch and Clock evidence their conformance with the RJC’s
Design Competition were on exhibit throughout the show. requirements for KPCS compliance,” says
Michael Rae, RJC’s CEO.
030-034.CJ_FTR_RE.indd 28 11/1/10 11:04:06 AM

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and mounted in
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geengee.com
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400 - 736 Granville Street
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fortherecord
The RJC has established a consultative to make finding products and services from strict code of ethical business practices
panel of external stakeholders to engage in AGTA Members even more convenient. required by AGTA. If you currently have the
ongoing standards development activities This new resource will replace the existing AGTA Electronic Source Directory on your
with the Council. Of particular relevance Electronic Source Directory that has computer, you may want to uninstall the
to the recent KP decision is the focus the been in use for several years. This AGTA program as it will no longer be updated with
RJC and its consultative panel will bring Online Source Directory can be found at current member information.
to investigating the feasibility of chain- sourcedirectory.agta.org. “This new Online
of-custody certification for the diamond, Source Directory is more dynamic, updated Diamond Code of Conduct’s
gold and platinum jewellery supply more often and provides thorough contact “The Code” Endorsed by
chains. A voluntary RJC chain-of-custody and product information right at your Competition Bureau
certification for eligible products would fingertips,” states AGTA CEO Douglas The Canadian Diamond Code Committee
be complementary to the RJC’s existing K. Hucker. “This is a great tool for buyers (CDCC) has revealed that the Voluntary
system for the independent third party who prefer to work with suppliers they can Code of Conduct for Authenticating Canadian
certification of its members’ responsible trust, AGTA members.” The Online Source Diamond Claims (the Code) has been revised
business practices and a logical next step for Directory includes coloured gemstone and is endorsed by the Commissioner of
the council. dealers, cultured pearl suppliers, designers, the Competition Bureau of Canada. The
manufacturers, estate jewellery dealers, introduction of the Competition Bureau’s
AGTA Launches tool & equipment suppliers, appraisers, new “Product of Canada” and “Made in
Online Source Directory lapidaries and many other industry-related Canada” Claims Enforcement Guidelines
The American Gem Trade Association service providers. All companies listed in has necessitated a number of changes to
(AGTA) announced the launch of a new the directory are members of AGTA, which the Code. In addition, the revised Code
web-based AGTA Online Source Directory means they are dedicated to upholding the includes the new “Associate Member”
category for gemological laboratories and
an “e-commerce/retailer” category. The
Code evolved from the collaborative efforts
of a broad cross section of the industry,
including the diamond mining sector,
cutters and polishers, retailers, the Canadian
Jewellers Association (CJA ) and Jewellers
Vigilance Canada (JVC) , as well as the Royal
Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP) and
other government stakeholders. This Code
establishes a minimum standard required for
authenticating a Canadian diamond claim
based on records and a chain of warranties,
which was found to be the most appropriate
system to authenticate claims on the
origin of Canadian diamonds. The Code is
administered by the Canadian Diamond Code
Committee (CDCC), a non-profit volunteer
Hublot Opens Two U.S. Locations industry body comprised of representatives
Hublot has opened its first two boutiques in the continental United States in from the mining, cutting and polishing,
Boca Raton and Bal Harbour, Florida. Timepiece connoisseurs visiting from wholesale and retail sectors, and JVC, CJA as
Latin and South America, as well as the American clients will particularly well as a representative of a national consumer
appreciate the convenience of the Bal Harbour l0uxurious location. Boca organization, Consumer Interest Alliance
Raton is also ideally situated to cater to the local clientele in this exclusive area. Inc. For more information, please visit
In addition, the Boca Raton boutique hosts a luxurious secluded VIP area - canadiandiamondcodeofconduct.ca.
Hublot World - in keeping with the high-end atmosphere of Mizner Park. “The
two spaces reflect the brand’s DNA of innovation and tradition, luxury and Rio Tinto to Invest US$803-million
design, past and present, all combined within its vision of fusion”, says Hublot to complete Argyle Diamond Mine
CEO Jean-Claude Biver. The boutiques feature a welcome lounge where underground project
clients can experience the latest Hublot timepieces in a very relaxing ambiance Rio Tinto will invest US$803-million to ramp
and with the highest level of customer service. up the underground block cave project at its
Argyle Diamond Mine in Western Australia.
030-034.CJ_FTR_RE.indd 30 11/1/10 11:04:33 AM

WHY RUN A R OUND TOW N ?
One stop eq u a ls a smart shop for the Trade Jewelle r.
at PH Design, our full service workshop can produce a single ring or a large
complicated order with ease. with over 25 experienced jewellery craftsmen
whose specialities include custom design, the creation of waxes, moulds
and CnC generated jewellery, your order will go out on time and on budget.
we also sell diamonds and coloured stones and maintain an extensive
inventory so you’ll never have to wait.
For more information, please schedule an appointment or visit us
online at www.phdesign.ca.
PH Design | 149 CHurCH street | 2nD Floor |toronto, ontario | M5B 1Y4
(416) 367-2870 | inFo@PHDesign.Ca | www.PHDesign.Ca
PH_Design_CdnJwlr_Oct2010.indd
000.CJ.NOV10_PHDesign.indd 1 1 10-09-30
10/22/10 5:16 PM
11:20:14 AM
Following a transition from the current diamonds in the world, unearthed from the and, in one case, even sensitive experiences
open pit operation, the underground will be Argyle diamond mine in the remote East which are guaranteed to surprise. One of
fully operational in 2013. The project will Kimberley region of Western Australia. our favourite features allows you to take a
extend the life of the mine until at least 2019. Accompanying this year’s Tender collection photo of your wrist and adorn it with the
Construction activity will begin in the first is the one-of-a-kind Argyle Pink Diamond watch model of your choice from almost
half of 2011, with targeted production rates Tiara, designed by iconic jeweller Asprey and 60 of the most iconic watches in the Hublot
of nine-million tonnes a year forecast within featuring 178 rare Argyle pink diamonds. To 2010 collection, scaled to fit your wrist
two years. The funding will cover project coincide with the 2010 Tender, Argyle Pink perfectly as if you were actually wearing it.
development and construction of extraction Diamonds has released a new publication, In addition, Hublot has created a unique
services, crushers, a conveyer and pump Rare and Collectable, that places this rarity in online competition to test the user’s playing
stations at the mine in the Kimberley region the context of global supply and demand and abilities with a fun and interactive game
of north-west WA. The extended mine life the resulting strong price appreciation. Th is exclusive to the application. The prize is two
from the underground project will generate publication is considered timely given the VIP places for a Manchester United game
enduring benefits for the Kimberley region, increasing propensity for affluent investors in the Stadium of Light for a match of your
building on Argyle’s significant contribution and collectors to diversify their portfolios choosing. If that is not enough to get retailers
to economic development over the past through acquisitions of rare diamonds. New playing, Hublot will also cover two-night
quarter of a century. With 70% of the York is the fi nal viewing location for this accommodation for two guests at one of the
workforce living locally, Argyle is one of the year’s Argyle Pink Diamonds Tender and Man U leading hotels.
largest contributors to the East Kimberley bids closed on October 26 in Perth.
economy. De Beers Earns Top
Hublot Launches iPhone Sustainability Reporting Award
Rio Tinto’s Pink Diamonds Application De Beers has been declared the Overall
Showcased in New York Watch giant Hublot launched a new iPhone Winner in the ACCA South Africa
Rio Tinto’s exclusive Argyle Pink Diamonds application at the end of October that is Sustainability Reporting Awards for its
Tender was showcased in New York recently now available for a free download. The Report to Society 2009. This is the third
alongside a much sought-after pink diamond application allows users to discover the consecutive year that the Report to Society
tiara. The 2010 Argyle Pink Diamonds entire Hublot 2010 collection and also has been recognized for such an award, but
Tender comprises 55 of the fi nest pink offers a multitude of entertaining, original this time De Beers was placed in a category
Stuller Releases New Catalogs

Just in time for the holiday season, Stuller
has released three new catalogs designed to
help retail jewellers drive traffic to their stores.
Packaging, Displays & Gifts, Vol. 81 features
more than 200 pages of new packaging, display
and gift items,with everything from tissue and
totes to point-of-purchase and showcase
displays. A first for the company, they also
released a comprehensive contemporary
metals catalog, Contemporary Metals Jewellry
Collection, highlighting a broad assortment
from their inaugural line, which includes patent-
pending Dura Tungsten, titanium, stainless
steel and ceramics. Also in that catalogue
are resources for cleaning and repairing
contemporary metal jewellery. Mountings
Collection Special Edition features new Stuller
products (as well as others popular for the brand)
and includes updated pricing at current precious
metal pricing markets. It serves as the “sneak
peek” to a more extensive mountings catalog
coming in 2011.
030-034.CJ_FTR_RE.indd 32 11/1/10 11:37:13 AM

fortherecord
of its own as ACCA created a cross sector debut in mainland China with the official contemporary edge for the growing Chinese
overall winner to recognize the achievement. unveiling of a contemporary fashion jewellery diamond jewellery market.
ACCA South Africa noted that the report was collection and a unique diamond encrusted
“well ahead of all of the other submissions” kookaburra. The new and innovative diamond De Beers Eyes New
and therefore decided to recognize De Beers pieces were showcased at the Australian Markets with Forevermark
as the Overall Winner. “De Beers is a world- pavilion at the World Expo in Shanghai, at an Having reached over $150-million in retail
class report in any jurisdiction on the planet. event that celebrated the unique partnership sales in the first 18 months, and now in
It could win awards in any country and in between Rio Tinto’s diamond business and 294 doors across Asia, Forevermark, the
any sector,” ACCA announced at the awards. Chow Tai Fook, China’s leading diamond De Beers diamond brand, will now be
“We are delighted to be the recipients of such jewellery retailer. Inspired by the colours of available in Singapore, selected islands in the
a prestigious Award. It’s a great endorsement Australia, “Peng Peng,” a 20 cm high diamond Caribbean, Mexico and India before the end
of our approach to sustainability reporting,” encrusted kookaburra was designed by Chow of 2010. Forevermark diamonds are natural,
noted Dr. James Suzman, Director of Public Tai Fook as a symbol of its partnership with untreated and only come from sources that
Affairs for De Beers. “As we look forward to Rio Tinto and as a tribute to the World Expo. are committed to the highest business, social
capitalizing on the opportunities of economic This one-of-a-kind objet d’art is encrusted and environmental standards. Each and
recovery we will continue to focus on finding with approximately 20,000 diamonds, and every Forevermark partner must meet the
synergies between operating sustainably, will undertake an extensive tour of key Forevermark Integrity Requirements – a
meeting the expectations of our stakeholders, Chinese cities where it will be exhibited at groundbreaking set of rigorous standards for
and meeting our commercial goals. In doing Chow Tai Fook stores. The unique Chow Tai the diamond industry. The world’s leading
so, we intend to exemplify our commitment to Fook fashion jewellery collection comprises independent auditor, Société Générale de
‘live up to diamonds’.” more than 55 pieces that were introduced in Surveillance (SGS) inspects and monitors every
stores in China in
MCD Pearls Ad layout
early September. It has been Forevermark partner to ensure compliance
7/15/10 10:17 AM Page 1
Louis Vuitton Announces First especially designed to offer a versatility and with these standards on a regular basis. This
Designated Watch & Jewellery
Store in France
Less than a year after the launch of the
haute joaillerie collection, L’Ame du Voyage,
designed by Lorenz Bäumer, Louis Vuitton
has announced its first store dedicated to
watches and jewellery, which will open at the
end of 2011 at 23 Place Vendôme: an address
not only synonymous with jewellery in Paris,
but worldwide. The store will have a window
facing Place Vendôme and four windows on
Rue de la Paix. “The Louis Vuitton store at
place Vendôme is as fundamental a step for MCD PEARL IMPORTS
our jewellery collection as our workshop at a selection of strands, loose pearls and pearl jewellery
Asnières was for our trunks in 1859, or as our
workshop in Fiesso d’Artico in Italy was for our
shoes in 2000,” said Yves Carcelle, chairman
and CEO of Louis Vuitton Malletier. “This
store will allow us to become a major player in

the world of fine jewellery. Our clients will have
the opportunity discover the Louis Vuitton
watch and jewellery universe – a universe
which combines tradition and innovation and
remains true to the unique know-how of our
craftsmen, who will be situated on the top floor
of the store.”
703-27 Queen St. E., Toronto, ON, M5C2M6
Rio Tinto’s Diamonds debut at The 416.368.2690 info@mcdpearls.com
World Expo in Shanghai catalogue available upon request
Rio Tinto’s diamonds from its Argyle Diamond
Mine in Western Australia have made their
030-034.CJ_FTR_RE.indd 33 11/1/10 11:37:31 AM

fortherecord
ongoing process ensures that the Forevermark

supply chain is deemed responsible at every
stage and Forevermark’s Pipeline Integrity is
stock index
preserved and maintained. Last Quarter Market
Company Name Stock Exchange Price Price % 52-Week 52-Week Revenue P/E Cap
Symbol 08/23/10 10/28/10 Change High Low ($Millions) Ratio ($Millions)
EGL Asia Opens Two
New Labs in Asia
Precious Metals
This October, the EGL Asia has opened
Agnico-Eagle Mines AEM TSX $65.690 $75.090 14.31% $75.350 $53.160 $347.46 71.91 $11,442.42
two new labs in Asia, in Shenzen, Southern Alamos Gold AGI TSX $16.720 $15.340 -8.25% $18.190 $8.530 $47.49 26.88 $1,776.05
China, and Taipei, the capital of Taiwan. The Anglogold Ashanti Ltd. AU NYSE $43.240 $45.130 4.37% $48.160 $34.110 $1,275.00 29.51 $17,632.29
announcement was made to coincide with the Barrick Gold Corp. ABX TSX $46.380 $46.940 1.21% $50.650 $36.010 $2,642.00 12.61 $46,259.88
Compania Minas Buenaventu BVN NYSE $37.610 $51.450 36.80% $52.480 $28.590 $212.03 15.18 $13,090.94
opening of the Hong Kong Jewellery and Gem Eldorado Gold ELD TSX $19.180 $17.070 -11.00% $21.350 $11.420 $206.44 44.15 $9,237.15
Fair, where it offered free grading and laser First Quantum Minerals FM TSX $57.550 $87.620 52.25% $100.320 $48.200 $528.70 9.02 $7,062.08
Freeport-McMoRan Copper&Gold FCX NYSE $70.360 $95.500 35.73% $100.340 $56.710 $5,152.00 12.06 $44,927.02
inscription services at the fair. CEO Joseph Gammon Gold GAM TSX $7.160 $6.890 -3.77% $13.190 $5.420 $57.04 11.75 $953.77
Kuzi said the lab had decided to establish Gold Fields Limited (ADR) GFI NYSE $14.070 $15.030 6.82% $16.260 $10.880 $1,206.76 9.95 $10,608.32
a presence – by means of a local, Chinese Goldcorp Inc. G TSX $43.200 $43.320 0.28% $48.370 $35.120 $844.30 32.24 $31,885.60
Harmony Gold Mining Co. (ADR) HMY NYSE $9.950 $11.250 13.07% $11.940 $8.730 $397.89 34.21 $4,822.31
representative – in the Shenzen area as he felt Iamgold Corp. IMG TSX $18.540 $18.020 -2.80% $21.950 $13.170 $213.99 56.18 $6,700.27
that EGL Asia needed to offer its services on Ivanhoe Mines IVN TSX $17.880 $23.860 33.45% $26.250 $11.210 $17.67 N/A $11,644.55
site in southern China. Meanwhile, the lab in Kinross Gold K TSX $15.950 $17.610 10.41% $23.470 $15.340 $696.60 27.52 $12,395.07
Lundin Mining LUN TSX $4.210 $6.310 49.88% $7.040 $2.910 $183.15 21.97 $3,659.17
Taipei will be the only foreign laboratory out Newmont Mining NEM NYSE $57.580 $58.400 1.42% $65.500 $41.450 $2,153.00 16.90 $28,234.06
of the “big four” that will offer full diamond Northgate Minerals Corp NGX TSX $2.970 $2.860 -3.70% $3.700 $2.470 $122.74 30.89 $832.01
Pan American Silver PAA TSX $24.540 $31.760 29.42% $32.320 $21.350 $147.25 34.57 $3,395.43
identification and grading services in the PolyMet Mining Corp POM TSX $1.530 $1.720 12.42% $3.890 $1.330 $0.00 N/A $256.67
Taiwanese capital. [CJ] Randgold Resources Ltd. (ADR) GOLD Nasdaq $90.160 $91.500 1.49% $106.440 $63.570 $102.57 N/A $8,278.92
Silver Wheaton SLW TSX $21.850 $27.740 26.96% $28.460 $12.810 $95.00 46.60 $9,539.24
Southern Copper Corporation SCCO NYSE $29.100 $42.300 45.36% $43.730 $25.560 $1,173.24 26.39 $35,955.00
Taseko Mines Limited TKO TSX $4.960 $6.330 27.62% $7.270 $2.790 $56.45 9.88 $1,181.27
Teck Resources Ltd. TCK.B TSX $33.960 $45.310 33.42% $46.920 $29.760 $2,520.00 13.91 $26,714.78
Thompson Creek Metals Company, Inc. TCM TSX $9.130 $10.790 18.18% $15.560 $8.480 $148.40 27.18 $1,508.36
Yamana Gold Inc. YRI TSX $10.660 $10.870 1.97% $15.000 $9.470 $351.37 29.03 $8,054.92
GemStones
Anglo American PLC AAUKY OTC $18.230 $22.570 23.81% $23.550 $16.520 N/A 36.35 $55,190.00
Azure Resources Corp AZU TSX-V $0.090 $0.080 -11.11% $0.160 $0.070 $0.00 N/A $7.12
BHP Billiton Limited BHP NYSE $67.130 $80.720 20.24% $83.510 $58.380 $0.00 18.08 $135,543.41
BRC DiamondCore BCD TSX $0.100 $0.100 0.00% $0.210 $0.050 $0.00 N/A $8.49
Diamond Fields International DFI TSX $0.180 $0.230 27.78% $0.300 $0.050 $0.00 N/A $10.79
Diamond North Resources DDN TSX-V $0.165 $0.210 27.27% $0.400 $0.150 N/A N/A $16.39
Dios Exploration DOS TSX-V $0.250 $0.280 12.00% $0.380 $0.160 N/A N/A $8.93
COLOUR CATALOGUE Equinox Minerals Limited

Harry Winston Diamond
EQN
HW
TSX
TSX
$4.480
$11.350
$5.450
$12.680
21.65%
11.72%
$6.260
$14.950
$3.070
$8.740
$195.34
$153.73
138.25 $3,248.20
180.57 $972.02
THE SYSTEM
Mountain Province Diamonds MPV TSX $3.620 $5.340 47.51% $5.550 $2.020 $0.00 N/A $338.01
Peregrine Diamonds Limited PGD TSX $2.000 $2.310 15.50% $2.740 $1.380 $0.00 N/A $197.83
Rio Tinto RIO NYSE $50.840 $64.720 27.30% $66.860 $39.300 $0.00 8.46 $98,690.23
M T HE S Y
STE ST Sanatana Diamonds Inc STA TSX-V $0.185 $0.120 -35.14% $0.230 $0.070 N/A N/A $7.53
SY EM
E Shear Minerals Ltd SRM TSX-V $0.060 $0.090 50.00% $0.120 $0.040 N/A N/A $10.71
H
T Starfield Resources Inc SRU TSX $0.060 $0.060 0.00% $0.130 $0.040 $0.00 N/A $33.00
T
H
EM
SILVER
Stornoway Diamond SWY TSX $0.530 $0.560 5.66% $0.800 $0.230 N/A N/A $166.60
ST
SY
True North Gems TGX TSX-V $0.090 $0.140 55.56% $0.190 $0.070 N/A N/A $16.53
M TH E S Y
STE
Vale (ADR) VALE NYSE $27.190 $32.030 17.80% $34.710 $23.580 $9,658.00 8.03 $103,489.89
JEWELLERY
M TH E
Jewellers & Retailers

CHAINS BRACELETS EARRINGS
Birks & Mayors BMJ AMEX $1.090 $1.260 15.60% $6.200 $0.520 N/A N/A $14.35
PENDANTS RINGS BANGLES
STE
SYS
Fossil Inc. FOSL Nasdaq $44.360 $58.510 31.90% $58.750 $26.140 $412.56 20.61 $3,942.40
LOCKETS CUBICS...
SY
Sears Canada SCC TSX $24.000 $19.760 -17.67% $22.430 $16.110 $1,212.80 9.91 $2,126.59
T
DISPLAYS
EM
Signet Group SIG NYSE $27.600 $34.870 26.34% $35.360 $23.010 $722.80 14.99 $2,981.73
E
H
Tiffany & Co. TIF NYSE $43.050 $51.590 19.84% $52.880 $35.810 $668.76 20.75 $6,559.67
T
H
E
EM SY Wal-Mart WMT NYSE $51.140 $53.870 5.34% $56.270 $47.770 $103,726.00 13.90 $199,838.85
ST STE
M T HE S Y Zale Corporation ZLC NYSE $1.690 $2.580 52.66% $7.040 $1.350 $345.00 N/A $82.84
Commodities
THE SYSTEM Gold COMX $1,341.200
Silver COMX $23.920
TOLL FREE 1•800•661•4460 Platinum NYME $1,690.200
1670 MILLS RD, SIDNEY BC V8L 5S9 Palladium COMX $482.900
*This selection of securities is not to be interpreted as a solicitation and companies are not endorsed by Rive Gauche Media.
030-034.CJ_FTR_RE.indd 34 11/1/10 11:04:49 AM

Alternative Metals Innovation
A. B. C. D.
For details, write #120 on Free Info Page, page 81.
A. B. C. D. E.
by
www.crownring.com
CJ_BG_Name.indd 1 10/22/10 11:21:45 AM

miningfeature
Reclaiming the Throne

As the diamond market recovers, Canadian mining is back on.
by martin irving
The pit at Jericho. The mine was recently purchased by Shear Minerals.
A
s with much of the jewellery industry, the diamond exploration and mining sector has
generally been slow and cautious since the financial crisis. However, over the past few
months, diamond exploration companies have begun to ramp up their plans and programs.
The diamond exploration sector is being led by Peregrine Diamond’s Chidliak project on Baffin
Island, which continues to reveal exciting and positive results. Diamond mining companies are
back up to full production as rough prices have recovered. In Canada, two diamond-mining
projects are working their way through their respective environmental permitting and approval
processes: Shore Gold’s Star and Orion project in the Fort a la Corne region of Saskatchewan, and
Stornoway’s Renard project in the Otish mountains in Quebec.
The conclusive indication that life has returned to the Canadian diamond sector was the purchase,
this summer, of the bankrupt Jericho mine. The Jericho mine, owned by Tahera Diamonds, opened
as Canada’s third diamond mine in 2006, went into bankruptcy in 2008 and officially closed its
doors in early 2010. From the time it opened, Jericho faced considerable problems in almost all
aspects of the operation, from mining, milling and processing operations to marketing. Nothing
seemed to proceed as projected, anticipated or expected.
036-039.CJ_MiningFeature.indd 36 10/27/10 10:05:08 AM

CJ_NOV_PolarGroup.indd 1 11/8/10 9:26:55 AM

miningfeature
“Jericho
From the time it opened,
faced considerable
problems in almost all aspects
of the operation, from mining,
milling and processing
operations to marketing.
”

miningfeature
Of course, the operation was not without handling, improving crushing and sorting
value. Over $200-million was invested in operations and increase diamond recovery.
the facilities, located in Canada’s premier Shear estimates that $30-35-million will be
diamond producing area. It produced 780,000 needed to rehabilitate the mine site, of which
carats, and has 1.88-million carats indicated approximately $20-million will be capital
resource, valued around US$90/carat, but can costs associated with the milling and diamond
it be operated economically? recovery facilities.
In July 2010, Shear Minerals announced While the Jericho mine operated, Tahera
the purchase of 100% of the Jericho mine, marketed the production through an
processing facilities and the supporting agreement with Tiffany. Tiffany had the
exploration assets. This is a significant step for option to purchase what it wanted, selling
Shear that will stretch their expertise, finances the rest in Antwerp on behalf of Tahera for
and abilities. Shear has been exploring for a fee. But Tiffany has exacting standards for
diamonds since 1997, focused primarily on the the diamonds it purchases for its own use, and
Churchill project in Nunavut. The company found that the majority of the production did
enjoyed steady advances, but no major not meet their requirements. The production
discoveries to excite the market. During the appeared to average between US$70 and
financial crisis, Shear president Pam Strand US$90 per carat, with large stone potential.
took the opportunity to assess the company During Jericho’s brief mine life, it produced
and its future, and look for a company- more than 1,000 stones greater than 10 carats.
transforming opportunity. She found Jericho. Regardless of the production mix, Shear will
need to explore all marketing options in order
During the bankruptcy process, a series of to maximize revenues to offset the costs of
reports and studies were undertaken to assess operating in Canada’s North. One of Shear’s
what happened at Jericho. These assessments advantages is that it will not require hundreds
looked at the entire operation from geological of millions of dollars for construction, and
understanding of the deposit to the mining therefore does not face any financial pressure
plan, the milling and processing facilities to contract the sale of their future production
and the diamond recovery systems. These or marketing rights.
reports provided numerous recommendations
to improve the operation and therefore the The variety and number of methods,
economic viability of the mine. Shear, with strategies and approaches that diamond
its diamond exploration expertise, and the mining companies are using to sell rough
recommendations and information in the diamonds has exploded over the past 10 years,
assessments, are confident that the Jericho so there is no shortage of options for Shear.
mine can be operated profitably. The traditional method of selling a specific
mix of the rough diamond production to a
Over the next 12 months, Shear will be limited number of regular customers has
renewing the water license for the operation. fallen out of favor. Shear will be exploring
Exploration work will focus on improving options such as tendering all the production,
the understanding of the kimberlite, and marketing directly to one or more downstream
assessing a number of exploring targets companies or even selling some of the
within 10 miles of the mine site in order production through the Canadian Diamond
to improve the reserves and grade (carats/ bourse. In whatever manner the production is
ton). In addition, it will explore and assess sold, if Shear resurrects Jericho and joins the
the various recommendations to improve ranks of Canadian rough diamond producers,
the mining operations. These include the entire Canadian diamond industry will
examining processes to reduce material benefit. [CJ]

benchfeature
Burr tricks for setters

Making the most of your burnt burrs.
BY CHARLES LEWTON-BRAIN
S
tonesetters, perhaps moreso than goldsmiths, frequently convert and
repurpose tools to different ends. Often when a tool is needed, they will cast
around the bench looking for raw material, and as every setter knows, used
(or tragically, even overheated, burnt) burrs abound. There are a number of tools
that can be made from such defunct burrs. An advantage is that if a burr is used,
then it is a standard 2mm diameter and it is rapid to fit into a flex shaft handpiece or
a collet on a graver handle. Th is cuts working time in at the bench – always a vital
consideration.
Point Burnisher
One of the most useful of such setters’ tools is a point burnisher. This tool is used for
brightening up the inside rims of bezels, giving a sparkle to prong tips and to confirm
and complete the setting of flush set and snap set gems. It is used on jewellery to
highlight edges and give final finishing touches to an object.
040-043.CJ_Bench.indd 40 10/27/10 11:04:35 AM

Diamonds are not shown to scale
O’Neill Diamonds Inc.

#622-736 Granville St. Phone: 604-909-0818
Vancouver, B.C. Fax: 604-909-0272
V6Z 1G3 T-Free: 1866-9O’Neill(662-455) www.caratsmart.ca
cjJuneJuly10_ONeillDiamonds_Ad.indd 1 10/22/10 11:28:23 AM

A point burnisher is made by taking an old or broken (2mm, 3/32˝ I will sometimes use a point burnisher like this in a flex shaft handpiece
diameter shaft) burr and sanding and grinding the end of it to a rounded as a tool for flaring a particular small pin catch tube or another part. I
point with a long gentle taper towards the end. If there is still a burr have heard of jewellers using them in a flex shaft to do flush setting.
remnant on the end, this is snapped off using a pair of pliers before you
start reshaping it. The tapering can be done on a belt sander or begun Recently, I taught a bench tricks workshop and a participant said they
on a smooth grinding wheel. When reshaping the burr, care is taken like to use a ballpoint pen as a point burnisher, the metal ball working
not to overheat it during abrasion and thus causing a loss of hardness well to burnish and finish the insides of settings.
(overheating destroys the temper of the burr). You can tell if you have
done this, as the steel discolours. A way to further taper and finish the Beading Tools
tool is to mount the burr shank in a flex shaft handpiece and hold it Setters use old burrs to make different sizes of beading tools by using
against emery papers while it spins to sand it into the long, smooth taper a steel beading block. Beading tools are used to round off the beads
required of a good point burnisher. for pavé-set gems. This traditional approach to toolmaking is great for
maintaining a set of varied sizes of beading tools. The beading block tool
The very tip of the tapered shank is rounded slightly and gently, using is expensive, maybe $70 or so. To use it, you take an old burr, snap the
emery papers, and finally polished to a bright high shine (my favorite burr itself off using a pair of pliers, grind the point off flat, then heat the
polishing compound for this is Fabulustre®). While a reshaped burr is end up red hot and hammer it swiftly and once into the beading block
the best solution because the resulting tool is harder and lasts longer hole you want. The hole is shaped into the rounded bump needed to
without repolishing, the actual tapered, rounded, shaped end that is create a perfect beading tool.
needed can be seen in tapestry or thick darning needles that can be
found in a dollar store. Unfortunately they are not hard enough to hold I like to use a pair of vise grips to hold the burr with its end heated red
up in use, but you can use them as a model for the shape to carve the hot as it is struck into the beading block.
burr shaft into. The rounded tip is vital to its successful use.
If it is not yet formed properly, reheat and do it again. The beading block
This tool can be mounted in a graver handle or held in a universal collet will have rows of the same size of die holes to form the beading tool. This
handle such as that used for beading tools and millgrain wheels. is because the heat damages the shaping holes with time and so having
040-043.CJ_Bench.indd 42 10/27/10 11:04:49 AM

benchfeature
“used
An old burr can be used to create a round graver for raising beads
”
in pavé settings.
more than one to replace those worn out is useful. Once the burr has been A couple of related tools
reshaped properly into a beading tool, it is then hardened and tempered Burrs can be converted into tools for peening – that is, striking the
to a yellow straw colour on the tip. Finally it is lightly polished. surface of the metal like a tiny hammer. This is used in the flex shaft for
texturing surfaces, and most importantly for filling pits in castings and
The tool is used in a collet on a universal handpiece (a graver handle for errant holes in metal. It acts like a tiny hammer as it whirls around, the
interchangeable round tools), or simply embedded into a graver handle, end hitting the metal and flowing it into the pit to be filled. To make
one per size. Generally you only do this for commonly used sizes. one, the end of a burr is rounded off, heated red hot, grabbed with pliers
and very slightly bent. It is then hardened and tempered to a purple
Bead Raising Gravers colour. The rounded end is high polished. This kind of tool is sometimes
An old burr can be used to create a round graver for raising beads used in called a rotary burnisher.
pavé settings. This is very cheap and easy to make, and because the front
of the burr tapers, a range of sizes can be made easily by grinding an angle The same tool can be made from a small Allen wrench, which is ground
across at different points on the taper of the tool. To make one, take a off short and then sanded to a rounded end.
damaged burr, snap the burr head off with pliers, then grind and sharpen
the tapered round cross section to an angle. It is important to be very flat A similar shaped tool with a different effect for creating grooves as
and accurate in the grinding to ensure a sharp and consistent cutting edge surface decoration can be made by breaking the end off an old burr,
to the tool, and not to overheat, thus losing the remper of the burr shank – heating and bending it sideways and then filing or grinding what is
if you do overheat the burr, it is simple to harden and retemper it. essentially the front end of a beveled graver onto it so that, as it spins, it
cuts into the surface, creating short nicks or grooves. It must, of course,
The round graver made from the burr is set into a universal graver be hardened and tempered. Always temper carefully. I've heard of a flex
holding handle or a regular graver handle and is used for pushing the shaft tool made so that a small piece of carbide lathe tool bit is clamped
base of the bead against the gemstone to set it. into it, and this functions like the one I just described. [CJ]
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040-043.CJ_Bench.indd 43 10/27/10 11:04:58 AM

All About
Bogart’s
How Richard Rooney unleashed his inner Humphrey Bogart
and founded a retail chain in Eastern Canada
By Carol Besler
Photography By Kim Goodyear
I
t all started with a classic watch and a classic film. Richard Rooney,
after several years on the wholesale side of the Canadian jewellery
business, decided to try his hand at retail in 1992 when he opened
Bogart’s Jewellers, named after his favorite actor in “Casablanca.” To
paraphrase Bogie’s character in the classic film, it was “the beginning of
a beautiful friendship” between Rooney and his customers at what has
become an eight-store operation in Eastern Canada.
“My interest in jewellery started when I was a teenager, when I bought my

first watch, a Cartier Tank,” says Rooney. “I had always been interested
in jewellery, new trends and status symbols, and it just spiraled from
there.” Originally from Saint John, New Brunswick, Rooney moved
to Newfoundland in 1979 after completing his Bachelor of Commerce
at Saint Mary’s University to take a job with Wenger, selling Cardinal
and Swank. He was also a rep for Spiedel, Shaeffer, Majorica pearls and
Carmen jewellery.
“I fell in love with the trade, the interaction with business owners and
customers, and I decided in the mid-1980s to start my own wholesale
company, Atlantic Jewellers,” he says. While business was good in the ’80s
and ’90s, the collapse of the cod fishery in Newfoundland resulted in what
Rooney describes as “the outmigration of many rural communities, with
people moving to St. John’s and abroad to find work.” In 1992, he learned
that O.B. Allan Jewellers was for sale, and he jumped at the opportunity.
042-047.CJ_CoverStory.indd 44 10/27/10 11:41:37 AM

coverstory
Richard Rooney, proprietor of Bogart’s Jewellers

Bogart’s is the primary sales location for the
Dr. H. Bliss Murphy Cancer Care Foundation.
His first store was located in the Avalon Mall in St. John’s. “When coming The stores are designed with a nod to both tradition and modernity. “I
up with a name for my business, I was looking for something that was wanted all my stores to carry a similar look and atmosphere, so I found
classy and memorable, something that both my young and mature clientele a great architect to help me create a classic feel with a modern look in
could relate to,” says Rooney. “At the time, the movie “Casablanca” was a building that was durable and robust to stand up to the test of time,”
being re-released; I had always liked Humphrey Bogart’s acting, and I says Rooney. Classic design elements include black marble flooring, dark
thought it fit perfectly with the image I was trying to convey. “I used his mahogany furniture and showcases. The displays, however, are reviewed
image in a lot of my initial marketing. He was on my first website, and I on a weekly basis, and regularly changed to showcase new arrivals
actually still have a life-sized Humphrey Bogart mannequin in my Mt. and brands. Promotional programs and in-store signage are updated
Pearl location. I like the name so much I named my first son after him, accordingly. “Our focus,” says Rooney, “is to maintain a high-quality image
Bogart Rooney!” at all times, and to create an atmosphere that is conducive to buying.”
Eighteen years after opening his first store, Rooney has propelled Bogart’s In 2008, Rooney introduced a sister store in the Avalon Mall called
into an eight-store operation, located in shopping centres and strip mall/big Davanna’s Jewellery Boutique. “I opened it in order to focus on a brand-
box locations in Newfoundland and Nova Scotia. The stores are resolutely conscious clientele base and to bring in more brand-name jewellery
middle market, offering a broad price-range of merchandise, from a $5 and watches,” he says. Guess, Guess Collection, Gucci, Movado, Marc
battery up to a $10,000 diamond ring. “While I often sell pieces above the Ecko, Von Dutch, Dolce & Gabana, Elle and Chamilia are all part of
$10,000 mark, the majority of our revolving stock is within that range,” the merchandise mix, as is a full range of non-branded diamonds, silver
says Rooney. “I am known for reacting very quickly to customer needs; and gold. The store is named after Rooney’s daughter, Davanna, with
my showcases are constantly replenished with items that sell, and that the motto: “Precious Gifts Come in Small Packages.” Davanna’s picture
people are looking for.” Brands include Elle Jewelry, Chamilia, Swarovski appears on the Davanna’s website and throughout the store to remind the
and Canadian Diamonds. Primary watch brands include Guess, Bulova, staff and customers that it was named and opened for her – she is now
Citizen and Timex. This Christmas, Rooney predicts fashion jewellery, almost four years old. (Rooney’s oldest son, Bogart, is named after his
sterling silver, diamond jewellery and coloured gemstones will sell main stores. The initials of his second son, Alexander Joshua, represent
extremely well, as the price of gold continues to rise. the wholesale company, Atlantic Jewellers – AJ Ltd.)

coverstory
Rooney holds a BComm from Saint Mary’s University, and has completed
a number of courses with the Gemological Institute of America, yet he
feels the majority of his knowledge comes from his 30 years of experience
in the industry. “I feel I have learned the most through working with
numerous suppliers, business owners and, of course, my staff and
customers.” He adds, “I am always reading jewellery publications and
I am in constant contact with my vendors, employees and customers to
find out the newest trends and desires within the industry.”
Still, formal education remains important to the overall strategy.

Rooney has enrolled all of his store managers in the GIA course called
Diamond Essentials to help them increase their diamond knowledge
and build the tools necessary to drive sales. “It’s also important for
them to pass the information on to their employees,” stresses Rooney.
He and his operations manager, Kathy Butt, pass on what they learned
when they return from seminar presentations at trade shows. “I feel it
is crucial for my employees to be informed and actively engaged in the
trade,” he says. “ I want them to love it as much as I do.” In fact, he
wants them to build their own reputations as experts with customers. “I
want my staff to be memorable, and for clients to ask for them by name
because of their exceptional service and knowledge,” he says. “My staff
(which now numbers 60) are the faces of Bogart’s, and I want them to be
strong leaders in the industry.” This explains why Bogart’s’ staff is hired
primarily for displaying a positive attitude and passion for jewellery. “I
don’t focus on past experience, and I am open to training new and eager
employees,” says Rooney. The recruitment criteria is heavily weighted on
finding the right people to provide great customer service.”
In general, Rooney’s marketing strategy focuses primarily on in-store

displays and POS marketing. “Currently, I am looking into sending out
monthly emails to update our customers on what’s happening within
the industry and with Bogart’s. I have just joined Facebook, updated
our logo to a more modern and fresh design, and we are completely
revamping our websites,” says Rooney.
Community fundraising is another recent endeavor. This year, Bogart’s

was asked by the Dr. H. Bliss Murphy Cancer Care Foundation to become
the primary sales location for its Sparkles of Hope bracelet campaign.
“I was approached because Bogart’s is a household name and covers a
significant part of the island,” says Rooney, who agreed immediately to
support the program. “Cancer is something that has affected all of us,
and I wanted to help out in the community.” All contributions to the
Dr. H. Bliss Murphy Cancer Care Foundation remain in the province
and are used to enhance regional programs close to the patient's home,
support local education and research projects, fund patient support
programs and services and acquire cancer treatment equipment.
The Sparkles of Hope Bracelets are sterling silver, set with 20 Swarovski
Top: Rooney and his daughter, Davanna, the namesake of Davanna’s.
crystals, all of which signify a different cancer. The campaign, Bottom: Cathy, Davanna, Richard, AJ and Bogart Rooney.
which began in April, set an initial goal of $200,000-$250,000 in
its first year. By August, Bogart’s had hit the $1-million dollar mark.

“ring,
She arrived at 11:57, the groom tried on the
and it fit perfectly. He thanked her and
headed to the church, where the service was
scheduled for 12:30.
”
Bogart’s carries several watch

brands, including Gucci.
You want it when?

One jeweller’s adventure in the realm of heroic customer service
Richard Rooney and his staff will never forget one client’s wedding friend at the Post Office, and she called to ask if she could pick up the
near Gander last summer. The bride, a first-time Bogart’s shopper, package at 9 a.m. instead so she could make the drive to the ferry. Just
dropped into the Gander store last June to have her fiance’s father’s be sure, Brinston called the captain of the ferry to ask him to hold the
ring redesigned to fit her groom. The Gander store manager, Ann boat until she got there. He agreed, and even said he would hand-
Brinston, took the ring in and passed it on to the in-house jeweller for deliver the ring to the groom.
assessment, where it was discovered that the onyx stone was chipped
and would have to be replaced. It was then sent to an outside repair Brinston then called the bride to confirm the details of the delivery
shop that the company works with. There was plenty of time for the plan, at which point the bride informed her they had changed the
repair, since the couple was getting married in October, but in the venue; the groom’s father was too ill to travel, and they were now
meantime, Brinston tried to contact the bride on several occasions to getting married in the groom’s town, an hour outside Gander.
quote a repair price for the piece, but to no avail. Several weeks passed Brinston quickly wrote down the directions, and assured the bride
and several messages were left for the bride, who finally got back to that the ring would be there in time. At this point, the store was open
Brinston on August 1, to let her know the wedding was going to be and Brinston was there on her own with a brand-new part-time
moved up to August, as the groom’s father was fatally ill and they employee, Kalista Sharron, who could not be left alone in the store. It
wanted him to be there. She would need the ring as soon as possible was determined that she would make the delivery. All went well until
– the wedding was now scheduled for Friday August 7. The company Sharron arrived at the appointed place only to find that the white
hired to do the repair for Bogart’s was closed over the weekend; worse, house to which she was given directions did not exist. After getting
when Brinston called first thing Monday morning, she learned it several conflicting directions, which led nowhere, Sharron finally
would be closed for a week. “We have a great working relationship resorted to knocking on doors, asking if anyone knew the whereabouts
with this company, so when we advised them of the situation, they of the home of the groom. It worked. Someone was able to point her
said they would have someone there to fix the ring and send it to our in the right direction. She arrived at 11:57, the groom tried on the
Gander location on Wednesday for arrival late Thursday evening,” ring, and it fit perfectly. He thanked her and headed to the church,
says Bogart’s owner Richard Rooney. The post office, however, would where the service was scheduled for 12:30. After the honeymoon, the
be closed when it arrived, and the mail would not be delivered to couple called and sincerely thanked Brinston and her staff for making
Brinston until 11 a.m. the next day. This posed a problem, since the their wedding day so special and for creating a memory that would
wedding was taking place that day in a town accessible only by a ferry last forever. Needless to say, these customers, who had been first time
that takes an hour to get to from Gander. Fortunately, Brinston had a shoppers last June, are now self-proclaimed Bogart’s customers for life.

coverstory
From left to right: Selina Webber, Maxine Reid, Sharon Clinch, Renee Sheppard, Karen Slade, Beverly Power, Mary Short, Velma Piercey,
Richard Rooney, Kathy Butt, Faye Saunders, Michelle Strang and Valerie Walsh.
“We will continue to sell the $40 bracelets over the Christmas season,
with a new goal of reaching $2.5-million by the end of December, or
sooner,” he says. “For the past six months and for the months leading THE LOCATIONS
into Christmas, I have donated the use of my stores, staff, office supplies
and time to help this cause. Every dollar I collect for the bracelets is Bogart’s
given back to the Cancer Care Foundation,” says Rooney. In return, Avalon Mall, St. John’s, NL, 1992
the Cancer Care Foundation includes Bogart’s in all of its print, radio, Bogart’s
television, online and billboard advertising. “This campaign has been Trinity Conception Square, Carbonear, NL, 1993
mutually beneficial, as we are supplying the Cancer Centre with a means
Bogart’s
to sell its bracelets, while they are bringing hundreds of people into our
Gander Shopping Centre, Gander, NL, 1995
store on a daily basis,” says Rooney. “I have found this campaign to
be extremely rewarding and I know that my staff members have been Bogart’s
delighted to help – I think my next investment will be in tissues, as my Halifax Shopping Centre, Halifax, NS, 2000
staff and customers have cried together over their personal experiences Bogart’s
with cancer while the bracelet is being purchased.” Pearlgate Plaza, Mt. Pearl, NL, 2002
Bogart’s
When asked what advice he would give to someone just starting out in the Exploits Valley Mall, Grand Falls – Windsor, NL, 2004
jewellery business, Rooney replies: “Patience is an essential virtue when
Bogart’s
getting started and building your clientele base. It takes time to build a
Aberdeen Avenue, St. John’s, NL, 2007
strong clientele, develop the confidence needed to be in the industry, and
expand your knowledge base enough to be able to properly service your Davanna’s
customers. I would also let them know that branding is becoming more Avalon Mall, St. John’s, NL, 2008
important, especially with the younger generation.” [CJ]

Heavy Metal
From PVD to DLC, here is a glossary of
materials used both in jewellery production
and watch cases.
B y Carol Besler
Stainless Steel
The standard for watch cases is 316L surgical steel. Basically, 316L steel is
iron mixed with a small amount of carbon. Because it is non-allergenic,
it is used for surgical instruments. Its impermeable strength makes it
suitable for such formidable applications as nuclear reprocessing plants.
It is also known as marine grade stainless steel due to its strong resistance
to chloride corrosion.
Platinum
Platinum is an elite, expensive metal, with the highest resistance to
corrosion and tarnish, and will never chip or splinter. Even when platinum
scratches, the metal doesn’t wear away, but is simply displaced. Platinum
is precious not only because of its beauty, durability, pliability and density,
but because of its rarity. It is 30-times rarer than gold. The world’s most
important diamonds are set in platinum because of its hardness and
durability.
PVD
Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD) is a process that bonds a micron-thick
layer of compounds to metal. The finish never wears off. It is used in
machinery and tooling to decrease friction wear on metal parts. It has
also been used on transmission gears and engine parts of Formula One
cars. Most PVD is black, but the underlying finish of the metal can affect
the hue – a bead-blasted base will produce a dull, deep black appearance,
whereas a rough brushed base may produce a semi-glossy finish.
Palladium
Palladium has been used in jewellery off and on for decades – it was first
used when platinum was declared a strategic metal for military use in The Panerai Luminor Marina in titanium is one
1939. A few years ago, jewellers and watchmakers rediscovered palladium of several titanium models made by the brand.
as an ideal substitute for nickel in white gold (nickel makes gold white,
066-067.CJ_Alloys.indd 50 10/27/10 10:20:55 AM

alloysmarket
“30-times
Platinum is an elite, expensive metal... It is
rarer than gold. The world’s most
important diamonds are set in platinum
because of its hardness and durability.
”
but it’s a proven allergen). As one of the four platinum group metals,
palladium has the purity and lustre of platinum and a whiter color. It
is malleable and lightweight (palladium is 44% lighter than platinum),
which makes it highly wearable and scratch resistant.
Titanium
Titanium is the super metal of the watch and jewellery industry. Originally
used in the aerospace industry, it is 30% stronger than steel and nearly
50% lighter – the catch is that it’s more expensive. It is highly corrosion-
resistant; when exposed to the atmosphere, titanium forms a tight oxide
film that resists a variety of materials that can corrode other metals. It is
especially resistant to salt water corrosion, which makes it ideal for diver’s
watches.
Ceramic
Ceramic makes an ideal watch case material because of several amazing
properties: It is temperature-resistant, hypo-allergenic, and will never rust,
rot or scratch. And if you’re the James Bond type, you will be reassured
to know it is also bullet proof – ceramic is used to make vests that resist
bullets from high calibre rifles. It is also used to make knife blades that
stay sharper longer than steel. Ceramic can be infused with any color, and
is blessed with a silky texture that takes a high polish.
DLC
DLC, or diamond-like carbon is emerging as a hot new watch case material,
The Cartier Santos 100
giving tough-guy titanium a run for its money. The surface of a DLC watch chronograph is treated with
is coated with something very much like synthetic diamond, giving it an a special amorphous DLC
incredible surface hardness (diamond is the hardest substance known coating, which will not show
to man). DLC is nearly impossible to scratch. It is used on components contrasting color and is
in the engines of super sport motorcycles, military equipment and on fingerprint resistant.
implantable human heart pumps. [CJ]
066-067.CJ_Alloys.indd 51 10/27/10 10:24:19 AM

childrensjewellery
Capitalizing
on Kids
The youth market:
courting the clients of the future.
BY CAROL BESLER
C
hildren grow up so fast. One minute they’re texting “OMG,
I love Justin Bieber” and the next, they’re getting ready for
their first black-tie dinner. If you want to be the source of her
diamond necklace for the latter, a good way to start is by tempting
her with butterfly earrings or a teddy-bear charm bracelet at a
young age – and make sure you can help her mark every occasion in
between, from bat mitzvah to graduation. It’s never too early to start
building loyalty.
Today’s kids are more attuned to luxury

spending than any generation before them, but
that doesn’t mean they understand true luxury.
It’s up to you as a jeweller to educate them (and
their parents) about the real meaning of value. A
toddler might play with an expensive toy for only
a few minutes and toss it aside forever. A young
girl will spend $100 (or more) on a pair of jeans
nowadays, and that, too, is a disposable item. Instead,
they should be made aware that they could have a piece
of fine jewellery, something that becomes can last a
lifetime. In addition, entrusting children with something
precious teaches them values.
Some in the industry break down the segment into three

categories: 1. Babies and toddlers; 2. Tweens; and 3. Teens.
My First Diamond Collection, distributed by First Jewelry,
Jack Gindi, founder, CEO, and partner of FuFoo Fine Jewelry for
is a girl’s important introduction to diamonds. Girls and the Disney Precious Jewelry Collections, explains the
distinctions:
052-054.CJ_ChildrensJew.indd 52 10/27/10 4:55:45 PM

Designs from My First Diamond
Collection, distributed by First Jewelry.
Babies and Toddlers: From infancy until around age six, little girls love It is never too soon to introduce diamonds into children’s jewellery in
the small animal motif, such as ladybugs and teddy bears, as well as all any age group. Martin Mills, of First Jewelry, is marketing a collection
things Disney. “Hearts and butterflies are perennial favourites, but the called My First Diamond, for example, including pendants, earrings,
hottest new motif is the turtle,” says Gindi. Colourful enamel charms are bracelets and rings. All items are made of sterling silver with rhodium
also a favorite. This is an introductory age, where girls are experimenting plating, and all are set with a small diamond. Price points range from
with jewellery, and possibly using it to accessorize their dolls. $30 to $60. Some styles include 18k plating over sterling silver for a
luxurious two-tone look, which is making a huge comeback at all levels
Tweens: Between the ages of seven and 12, girls look to their idols, such of the market. “As with other segments in the industry, children’s
as Miley Cyrus, for fashion tips, coveting, for example, the layered gold jewellery has also turned to alternate metals to make it accessible for
pendants the singer likes to wear. “Girls at this age start to have a strong the masses,” says Mills.
sense of who they are, and they’re interested in jewellery,” says Gindi.
Messages are important, including ID tags that are engravable with Well-made children’s jewellery should be adjustable whenever and
names or sentiments. wherever possible, so that children can grow into each piece. This gives
it lasting value and heirloom status.
Teens: This is the age at which brands start to become important.
Teenagers are complicated and highly impressionable. They are Safety is also increasingly important when it comes to children’s
influenced by everything from pop stars and fashion magazines to jewellery. Before you sell a piece to a parent or gift giver, find out the
websites and their peers. Because teens are on a soul-searching journey age of the child, as it will have a bearing on
of identity, they like jewellery that has some meaning for them. “It’s all the style, symbolism, the essential
message-driven,” says Gindi, “with peace signs, OM for meditation, the message of the jewellery they
evil eye, female gender symbols and religious symbols, such as the Jewish choose. Find out the age of
Star, and the cross.” Gindi adds, “Jewellery for this age group is also very the child. Is it possible she
focused around milestones, such as sweet-16 and graduation.” could remove and then lose
a piece of jewellery or flush it
Antoine Malo, of Malo in Montreal, says earrings with CZs and anything down the toilet by mistake?
with animal motifs, such as giraffes, is hot right now in the children’s Or worse, swallow it? If so, a
segment. “ID bracelets are especially popular,” he says, “anything that is pendant (with a strong catch) Adjustable butterfly gemstone ring
engravable. We can’t keep them in stock.” might be preferable to a ring. from Fufoo Fine Jewelry for Girls.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m NOVEMBER 2010 CJ 53
052-054.CJ_ChildrensJew.indd 53 10/27/10 4:55:58 PM

childrensjewellery
Even a bracelet, which is considered the safest item of adornment for

kids, could be a hazard for a teething baby, who will want to bite into the
bracelet. For this reason, it should be hypoallergenic. “Kid’s jewellery
should be free of any solder, nickel or lead in the enamel,” says Gindi.
Charms should be tightly woven in, so there is no danger of them falling
off or coming apart even if a teething baby puts it in her mouth. Kids’
jewellery should have safe clasps. Pin latches or sharp clasps are unsafe.
Just as bracelets are a popular item of children’s jewellery, by extension,

so are charms. Ladybugs, teddy bears, turtles, butterflies and all manner
of hobby motifs, such as tennis rackets and soccer balls are easily
interpreted in the form of charms. Birthstones are another big seller in
the children’s segment, and a great way to introduce young people to the
world of coloured gemstones. Birthstone rings, in masculine styles, are
also appropriate for boys.
Some jewellers sell matching jewellery for mommy and baby, but a
better bet is to steer the buyer from the children’s jewellery showcase
to the grownup section for an important piece of jewellery that reflects From the Bfly
the important milestones in a mother’s life as well – including birth! collection.
Retailer Pat Thompson of Diamond Design in St. John’s, for example,
cites the “push gift” as a lucrative category. “I sold a $3,000 pair of studs
and a $4,000 TAG Heuer just recently for dads not wanting to catch the
wrath of their wives who are soon-to-moms,” he says. [CJ]
Sterling-silver monkey
charm, from Stuller.
Children’s Jewellery Advertisers in this issue

Butterfly Gem
t: 418.660.2909
w: www.bfl y.ca
Rousseau Chain Imports

t: 800.661.4460
PH Design
t: 416.367.2870
w: www.phdesign.ca
Stuller
t: 337.262.7700
w: www.stuller.com
052-054.CJ_ChildrensJew.indd 54 10/28/10 9:17:47 AM

cjAug10_ButterflyGems_Ad.indd 1 10/22/10 1:38:59 PM

Charm add-on pendant
necklace: semi-precious
stones, diamond accents
in combination sterling
with silver and 18k gold, by
Designs by Hera, Toronto.
Affordable
Luxury:
The New
Fashion Y-necklace in
gold-plated bronze
and stainless steel
Jewellery
with faceted citrine,
peridot and amethyst,
by Rebecca.
WHY NOW?
“The economy bubble burst,” says David Wolfe,
creative director for The Doneger Group, a leading
trend forecaster based in New York City. “And with that,
Well-rendered base metals and semi- crazy consumption has ended.” So in terms of fashion, accessories
and jewellery, he says, “Quality now counts far more than surface
precious stones are fast becoming a status. Authenticity. Brand integrity. The consumer has moved on
jewellery industry staple. BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE – to wearable versus wow.”
In regard to jewellery, sales at Matt Baily in Montreal are

testament to Wolfe’s assessment. In 2007, at the beginning of the
economic downtown, Matt Baily, owner of the eponymous shop,
decided to change his jewellery product mix to affordable luxury
T
iming is everything” may sound cliché and exaggerated, but the fashion only. “As a retailer for many years,” says Baily, I knew
phrase applies perfectly to fine jewellery’s hottest classification: that, even though we were in a troubled economy and the price
fashion jewellery. The new “affordable luxury” (fashion jewellery’s of gold was climbing, women still wanted to buy themselves
current catch phrase) is so important right now to every fine jewellery jewellery – and I knew they still wanted to buy quality jewellery.
retailer’s mix that not carrying it is, quite simply, out of fashion. So I brought in high-quality fashion jewellery.”
056-058.CJ_FashionJew.indd 56 11/1/10 11:28:23 AM

accessoriesupdate
Bangles with perforated-pattern

and disc charms from the Asia
collection are all in sterling
silver that is blackened, yellow
gold-plated or given a special
galvanized treatment for a pink
tone, by Calgaro.
It wasn’t difficult to find, says Baily, because, fortunately, as a survivalist collection from New York designer, Rina Limor, who, until fairly recently,
tool, quality brands started to launch collections in materials other than also fabricated solely in karat-gold. “Fashion jewellery between US$350
costly precious metals but with the same design aesthetic and well-made and US$1,000 does well for us,” says Maureen O’Keefe, marketing director
sensibility they had always had.” of Yanina & Co., which is located in a tony suburb of New York City. But
in this unusual economy, her customers have been buying gold-plated
The result? “My average retail now for affordable luxury fashion jewellery bronze/stainless steel from Rebecca and gold-plated/multi-hued sterling
is from $300 to $1,500, especially a self-purchase of $1,000 and under.” silver from Calgaro. “Their casual fashion looks, between US$300 and
Many of the brands that Baily carries are Italian, including Rebecca, US$700, are very appealing to our customers, says O’Keefe. “They’re
Calgaro and Pianegonda and, instead of large pieces in pricy gold and substantial in size and weight, and relaxed wearability makes it a good
platinum, these companies typically fashion the pieces by combining sell in the summer months. We also found that, during the holidays, this
materials like sterling silver, bronze, stainless steel, gold-plated base jewellery is priced right for our customers to buy several pieces as gifts.”
metals or special proprietary metals. Calgaro usually isn’t a gift purchase, says O’Keefe, due to its very distinct
styling, but it sells well as self-purchase. “It’s got the look of rose gold,
However, the collection he’s most excited about is from Toronto-based which has always done well in our store.”
Designs by Hera, featuring the work of Hera Arkarakas. Like many
designers, before the troubling global economy, Arkarkas worked in THE TOP TRENDS
karat-gold only. But this year, she translated her signature styling into In addition to pieces with a rose gold look, other trends in affordable
dramatic sterling silver/18k yellow gold pieces with bold semi-precious luxury fashion jewellery include the following:
stones and accents of diamonds. Baily says his customers tend to like the
colourful statement designs, adding, “Fashion now is about large jewellery Mixed Metals: Yellow gold with sterling silver (which many now refer
as an accessory, and big pieces like the ones I have from Hera are what to as “gilver”); bronze; plated yellow gold over silver or bronze; stainless
women want. As soon as they see it, they understand that this jewellery is steel; palladium; proprietary treatments to make metals look a certain
a fashion accessory. They also immediately see the value in it.” colour and a variety of carbon fibre resins, especially black resin.
For luxury jeweller Yanina & Co. in Cedar Grove, N.J, customers have a Dramatic Size: Extra-long necklaces that can be wrapped two and three
similar reaction to large-scale, high-fashion jewellery that isn’t fashioned times; bold and often bulbous rings that are more casual than cocktail
in all-gold or platinum. For the past year, they, too, have been carrying rings; uber cuffs, often perforated for lighter weight; earrings that are
Rebecca and Calgaro, as well as a sterling silver/semi-precious stone never smaller than medium-large.
056-058.CJ_FashionJew.indd 57 10/27/10 1:53:00 PM

accessoriesupdate
Bold Colour: Semi-precious, especially big and vivid centre stones; more
multi-colour designs than in recent years; popular cuts like checkerboards,
with more arty stores carrying slices and rough cuts; purple, black, grey
and white gems; and, going forward, more pinks, blues and greens,
especially the spectrum of tourmalines.
Stacking Bangles: Strong on spring runways, they’re wider than in

Semi-precious ring in seasons past, two on the arm at a minimum.
silver and 18k gold, by
Designs by Hera, Toronto.
Blackened Metal: Silver, cobalt and carbon fibre resins; high polished,
satin or matte, with Italian brands tending to keep them shiny.
Natural Colour Diamond Accent: Champagne diamonds first, black

diamonds second; many tone-on-tone looks, including champagnes set
in rose-coloured surfaces, black diamonds in blackened metals.
Signature-textured Silver: Distinguishing surface treatments,

especially those with an organic, natural feeling; textures in white
silver or dark silver. [CJ]
FOR YOUR FORAY INTO FASHION

JEWELLERY:
Rebecca necklace in
gold-plated bronze • Consider starting with three collections, each different from
and stainless steel the rest in its styling.
• Consider some statement pieces that are substantial

in size; they carry plenty of perceived value.
• Have the majority of pieces retail between $300 and

$1,000, but include others as high as $2,000. Doing this
will mean gift- as well as self-purchase.
• Coloured gemstones should be a key element to at least

one of the collections. Especially big semiprecious stones,
including opaque and translucent cabochons as well as
faceted gems.
Bracelet in black cobalt
and18k yellow gold, from
• Include some DIYs: Do-It-Yourself pieces, such as add-on
the Radiolarium collection
by Sarah Graham. enhancers for necklaces or charms for bracelets and
neck pieces.
056-058.CJ_FashionJew.indd 58 11/1/10 11:28:05 AM

000CJ_NOV_HongKongTrade.indd 1 10/22/10 11:32:15 AM

companyprofile
One-Stop
Shop
Why the strong, silent type always
endures the test of time.
BY EDWARD T . KRUPKA
P
aul Hofland of PH Designs is celebrating its 20th year
of designing and supplying custom-made jewellery
to stores across Canada, from mom-and-pop stores
to high-end luxury shops. “My job is to give the client the
best possible product,” says Hofland.
Paul Hofland
060-063.CJ_Company.indd 60 10/27/10 10:47:52 AM

WHY RUN AR O UND TOW N ?
One stop eq u a ls a smart shop for the Trade Jewelle r.
Our exclusive
FingerprinT
Wedding band
at PH Design, our full service workshop can produce a single ring or a large
complicated order with ease. with over 25 experienced jewellery craftsmen
whose specialities include custom design, the creation of waxes, moulds
and CnC generated jewellery, your order will go out on time and on budget.
we also sell diamonds and coloured stones and maintain an extensive
inventory so you’ll never have to wait.
For more information, please schedule an appointment or visit us
online at www.phdesign.ca.
PH Design | 149 CHurCH street | 2nD Floor |toronto, ontario | M5B 1Y4
(416) 367-2870 | inFo@PHDesign.Ca | www.PHDesign.Ca
PH_Design_CdnJwlr_Oct2010_Ad2.indd
CJ_NOV_PH Design2.indd 1 1 10/22/10
10-10-15
11:35:00
4:08 PM
AM
Born in Barrie, Ont., Hofland began an apprenticeship when he was 17 a variety of product.” And with a spiraling demand for product, PH is
years old. “I started on the bench as a stone setter,” he says, “I was doing always busy.
everything from setting to polishing.
“We also don’t actually carry one brand,” Hofland adds, stating also that
It wasn’t long before he started to show the ubiquitous Hofland touch. In the company does not deal in mass production. “We receive, on average,
1990, after working a few intensive years to get the lay of the land, Paul about 150 to 200 designs per week. “I think we’re one of the largest
and his then-partner decided to open their own business. “I wanted a custom outfits in the business,” says Hofland. ”With our masterful team
one-stop shop that did it all,” Hofland says. of expert craftspeople, we can deliver in a timely fashion. We have a staff
of 25 people who know their craft implicitly. I used to see and handle
They set up shop at 221 Victoria Street in Toronto, and PH Designs was each and every piece that came into the shop. Now I’ve got the right
born. “We worked our way up, literally,” says Hofland. “We started out people in place. I personally trained each of them, so they know what I
in the basement and then moved to the first floor, then the second, and want them to oversee. It’s like they are my eyes. They make everything
then finally all the way up to the third. By the time we left that building, run a lot smoother.”
we occupied half the floor,” says Paul. In 2006, the company moved to
the city’s Church Street with more space and a better view. In designing its pieces, Hofland always sets up a flexible timeline. “It
usually takes a good week to ten days for me to do good work,” he says, but
Known for its meticulous care and masterful touch, PH Designs has continues that taking one’s time is imperative in getting good product.
become well-known in the industry. “We pride ourselves in being an old- “If we’re pushed quicker, that takes away from our quality control, so we
school sort of trade,” Hofland says. “Even though times are changing, we work at our own pace. Remember, jewellery is an art; not a science.”
stick to the principle of doing business on trust – or if you will, trust and
a handshake. Some of the younger clients don’t avow this, but I think the “The key to our success is that we’re basically word of mouth. Our
old-school way is still nice.” customers know that our shop is one that they can trust and respect, and
does really great work, Hofland explains. “Our motto is: ‘Give your client
“We don’t specialize in any one type of design,” says Hofland. “We’re the best quality by giving just a little bit more.’ Many a time, I will do
known for doing special custom made designs – we do a lot of one-offs. something over again–losing money just to get that piece right. We stand
We don’t do 200 of the same thing. Whether it’s a wedding ring that by our product. When you have your word on the line, what other option
needs altering, a prized solitaire or even Grandma’s special ring, we do is there?” he asks.

companyprofile
“ Known for its meticulous care and

masterful touch, PH Designs has become
well-known in the industry.
”
With new technology always looming over the horizon, PH is on the

leading edge of utilizing it. “Technology is a huge part of our business
and we must embrace it,” says Hofland “I remember when we had
tanks to use for torches. Now, we use natural gas, which makes it less
cumbersome and far more efficient,” says Hofland.
Hofland has recently joined forces with a new partner – his wife, Stefanie.
“She brings a sound and unique take on the business,” says Hofland.
“With her in-depth interior design background, she looks at pieces and
gives them that creative ‘out of the box’ touch that I feel is needed with
our outlay here,” says Hofland. One of her responsibilities, aside from
keeping up with international trends, is starting up an in-house line for
PH. “But that won’t be until we line up a few things, and we’re ready,”
she says.
Hofland enjoys deferring to his wife on certain items. “Paul will say,
‘Hey Stef, you gotta see this before I send it out,’” says Stefanie Hofland.
“If its something expensive or different, that turns him on. Something
Stunning 18 karat yellow and white diamond eternity
that’s a little off the beaten path, that stands alone – that’s what makes ring was crafted in our state of the art workshop. With
him tick,” she reveals. three rows of shared, claw-mounted diamonds, this show
stopper boasts a total of 6.10 carats; 3.40 carats of round
Hofland feels quite secure about the future of the jewellery business. “For brilliant diamonds and 2.70 carats of yellow diamonds.
over 100 years, not much has changed. People will always get engaged and
they will always get married. Nobody ever throws away jewellery. It means
something, whether it’s to commemorate the day you got married or some
other milestone in your life. It’s a time capsule of your life. It’s your story.
That will never change, so I think we’ll be around for a bit.” [CJ]

designerprofile
Hot Fire Like

Carrera y Carrera ignites the jewellery scene with
passionate design and smart business strategies.
BY BONNIE SIEGLER
C
arrera y Carrera is a renowned Spanish jewellery fi rm that dates back
to the 19th century and is now a recognized worldwide brand. By 1970,
two of the legendary members of the Carrera family began bringing
their goldsmithing tradition into the contemporary world, taking advantage
of the strength and energy of the social, economic and cultural changes that
were taking place in Spain. The jewels of Carrera y Carrera have remained
distinctive in design and workmanship, and still made by professional
craft smen in workshops in Madrid, Spain, who carefully nurture each and
every detail.
The Spanish traditions of passion, enthusiasm and general love of life come
across in each and every handmade design, which helps to distinguish Carrera
y Carrera from other jewellery brands. It is therefore no wonder that beautiful,
elegant and passionate women have embraced these designs to help establish
Carrera y Carrera as the jewellery of choice. The internationally distributed
jewellery has recently become the favorite accessory of many Hollywood
actresses. Thierry F. Collot, president and CEO of Carrera y Carrera Americas,
talks about this luxury brand exclusively for Canadian Jeweller.
Canadian Jeweller (CJ): You have been associated with Bertolucci in the recent
past. Can you explain the difference – if there is any – between running a watch
company versus a jewellery company? Thierry F. Collot, president of
Carrera y Carrera Americas.
Thierry F. Collot (TC): They are similar in terms of distribution network and
running of the company, but totally different in terms of target audience,
perception by the consumers and retailers, and emotional factors that come
into play. Carrera y Carrera is a very special brand amongst jewellery brands.
062-065.CJ_Designer.indd 64 10/27/10 10:42:23 AM

A Custom Look
at an Unaccustomed Price
Tecno Displays TECNO DISPLAYS OFFERS

AVAILABLE IN CANADA AT
• quality crafted display showcases
• tempered glass
1-800-561-1951 • laminate and veneer finishes
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CJ: Carrera y Carrera dates back to the 1800s. Is that correct?
TC: Yes, the family business of jewellery manufacturing began in 1885.

It is the only international brand of a long tradition of goldsmiths in
Spain.
CJ: What were some of the line’s earliest inspirations for designs?
TC: In 1970, Manuel Carrera, who is a sculptor, started designing for

the family business. He created three-dimensional, mini sculptures as
jewellery pieces, and the brand became international.
CJ: How have the designs evolved over the decades to become coveted
pieces of jewellery worldwide?
TC: The designs have become very three-dimensional, almost like non-
1.
abstract mini sculptures. The collection now finds inspiration in nature,
through flowers, animals, architecture and the brand’s cultural heritage
in Spain.
CJ: You are recognized for your fine goldsmithing techniques. Do you
prefer 18k or 24k gold, and why have you chosen gold as your metal of
choice?
TC: We use strictly 18k, with some trade secrets, such as our famous
matte finish. Gold is part of our DNA. Passion for gold is our motto.
CJ: Kristin Cavalleri recently wore your red Gardenia ring from the
Azcuar collection, which she says was inspired by the Cuban style. How
was the line influenced by Cuban styles?
TC: The Gardenia is the emblematic flower for Cuba that inspired one of
the most beautiful songs of the Cuban heritage, “Dos Gardenias.”
CJ: What other celebrities have worn Carrera y Carrera?

2.
TC: The list includes Mariah Carey, Katy Perry, Jessica Simpson, Jada
Pinkett Smith, Maggie Grace, Demi Lovato and Jessaly Gilsig to name
a few. Each of these celebrities opted for statement-making pieces that
were wearable yet fun, and conveyed a strong message. The pieces never 1. Maxi “Gardenia” Ring in Red (Yellow Gold with Diamond, Smoked
overwhelmed their outfits, yet remained the perfect compliment, adding Quartz and Enamel).
a little bit of nature’s inspiration to their looks. 2. “Ava” Reversible Earrings (Yellow and White Gold with Diamonds).
CJ: What are the price points for the line?

designerprofile
TC: Entry point is $1,500. The core pricing of the line is between $3,500
and $15,000. Up to six digits for special pieces.
CJ: How are the inspirations of nature and art translated in the designs?
TC: Either as symbols such as dragons of “circle of fire” or plain

representation, Carrera y Carrera’s creations tend to convey emotions
derived from their source of inspiration, ranging from serenity to strength
3.
to power, joy and elegance.
CJ: Over the past year, I’ve seen some of your other designs; some with
tourmaline, some blue topaz. What other gemstones do you like to work
with?
TC: The use of stones in our jewellery enhances the workmanship of the
gold and completes the design to get the effect desired. Depending upon
the piece, we work with all kinds of gems, including diamonds, sapphires,
topaz or even smokey quartz.
CJ: Is colour, texture or the combination of both more integral in making

your jewellery?
TC: The work on our pieces focuses on details, with special attention to
a combination of various finishes, from our perfect matte to high gloss,
bringing contrast, volume and life to our pieces, as well as the combination
of gems.
CJ: How many stores worldwide carry Carrera?
TC: There are approximately 150 doors worldwide including Carrera y

Carrera boutiques in Madrid, Barcelona, Geneva, Moscow, Dubai, Kuala
Lumpur and Tokyo.
4.
CJ: Who are the dealers of your line in Canada?
TC: Right now, Berani Jewellers in Toronto, but we are looking for one
store in each city: Montreal, Quebec, Ottawa, Calgary and Vancouver.
CJ: Where do you see the trend in jewellery designs for 2011?
TC: More than trends, Carrera y Carrera is creating timeless pieces, pieces 3. “Taj Majal” Mumitaz Mahal Necklace (White Gold with
of art and self expression for a more demanding consumer. In the current Diamonds).
economic context, people are looking to buy pieces and values that will 4. “Aqua” Plum Cake Ring (White and Rose Gold with Diamonds).
pass the test of time…and our gold jewellery is just that. [CJ]

A Refresher
Employee theft may pose the greatest
threat of loss; awareness and simple
steps can reduce the risk.
B y David Maus-Berkley
Since 2004, JVC has been fortunate to share a partnership with Jewelers
Mutual Insurance Company. Here is just some of the loss prevention
advice the firm encourages all industry members to take in order to build
a safer and more secure business.
- Phyllis Richard, Executive Director, JVC
You’re a successful jewellery business manager or owner … or both. You

run a tight ship. You also wear many hats, because it doesn’t make financial
or operational sense for your business to carry a legion of employees.
Perhaps one of the hats you wear is that of recruitment and development.
You pride yourself in being thorough, in being a good judge of people
and in making good hiring decisions. For this reason, aside from the
sting of financial loss, it is hard to cope with the fact that one of your
employees has ripped you off.
068-069.CJ_JVC.indd 68 10/27/10 11:26:49 AM

jvccolumn
If this scenario sounds a bit too familiar, you can take solace in knowing • Closely observe employees, especially recent hires and those who
that you’re not alone. The 2009 Global Retail Theft Barometer and other handle merchandise, engage in financial transactions, or have access
surveys of retailers confirm a growing trend: employee theft is the largest to computer systems or financial records.
source of retail loss in Canada, outranking even shoplifting as a cause of • Check and affirm your daily receipts. Price merchandise by stamp
inventory shrinkage. or machine, rather than by hand. Allow only authorized employees to
price merchandise.
According to Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company, a company • Keep a record of keys issued and do not allow opportunities for
specializing exclusively in insurance protection for jewellery businesses duplicates to be made.
and owners in North America, cases of betrayal by employees represent • Use motion detectors, electric eyes, or central-station alarm systems
a broad spectrum of thievery, from simple pocketing of cash or to deter “breakouts” — an employee hiding inside the store and leaving
merchandise to highly sophisticated embezzlement schemes. Tactics after hours with stolen merchandise in tow.
include under-ringing tickets and keeping the difference, transferring • For returns and refunds, have at least one other employee corroborate
false merchandise returns or layaway plans onto gift cards, hacking the legitimacy of the transaction.
computers to divert funds, capturing funds from payment of fake • Make sure your merchandise isn’t taken out with the trash or the
invoices, accepting payoffs from vendors and turning a blind eye while mail. Beware of collusion between employees and trash collectors or
an accomplice makes off with merchandise. delivery workers. Use clear plastic bags.
Motivations vary, too. Certainly in a sluggish economy the allure of a In addition to these measures, Jewelers Mutual and other loss-prevention
fast take can be an enticement, even for the employed. However, loss- experts strongly advise business owners to establish an atmosphere of
prevention experts caution storeowners and managers not to overlook the professionalism and integrity with thorough employee training, clearly
numerous other factors that can influence employee theft, regardless of communicated policies and procedures and appropriately conveyed
the economic climate. These include reprisals from disgruntled workers, expectations. Kyle Murray, director of the School of Retailing at the
thrill seeking, attention seeking, drug abuse and mental illness. University of Alberta, echoes this point in Retail Loss Prevention: “It
depends on your relationship with employees and the systems you have
Retail Loss Prevention, a newsletter of the Retail Council of Canada, in place. Take care of your employees … and if you do that, you’re less
cites several similar motivators. In that publication, Joshua Bamfield, likely to have theft.”
the Global Retail Theft Barometer’s lead researcher, even points to cases
involving individuals disaffected by corporate corruption. “I think the Jewelers Mutual believes that, in all crime-prevention efforts, the
‘anti-capitalist/they’ve all cheated us/it’s all lies’ comments that have best defenses are education, awareness and preparedness, with sound
been common currency in the media have given all types of people practices and procedures. For this reason, Jewelers Mutual has partnered
permission to steal or to buy black-market goods,” he says. With so with Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC), providing its insured clients
many possible motivators and so many opportunities for workers who in Canada with free membership in JVC’s Crime Prevention Package.
operate unchecked, Jewelers Mutual recommends steps to discourage This JVC resource includes: alerts on dangerous jewellery crime, crime-
would-be employee thieves: prevention bulletins on effective security procedures, access to a database
• Screen job applicants carefully, within the boundaries of anti- on criminal activity in the jewellery industry, a crime-prevention manual
discrimination laws. Require each applicant to complete your business’s on CD and access to the JVC security library. Please visit JVC’s Crime
job application, rather than relying on resumes that offer only what Prevention Program site at www.jewellerycrimecanada.ca.
applicants want you to know. And be sure to check references before
you extend an offer. Remember, you can’t count on appearances. The The JVC site includes links to the Jewelers Mutual’s website and its
U.S. Small Business Administration’s report, Curtailing Crime — acclaimed JM University website, which offers online “Selling with
Inside and Out, advises that “the person you easily pick may just be Security” and “Danger on the Road” courses, as well as a legal compliance
looking for easy pickings.” tutorial produced in conjunction with JVC. [CJ]
068-069.CJ_JVC.indd 69 10/27/10 11:27:02 AM

what’son
upcoming events
Every effort has been made to publish accurate information but please contact show organizers to confirm.
If you would like dates added, please contact paul@rivegauchemedia.com
NOVEMBER | Canada CINCINNATI BEAD DECEMBER | Canada BATON ROUGE JEWELRY

JEWELLERS VIGILANCE AND JEWELRY SHOW BUTTERDOME CRAFT SALE and GENERAL
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JEWELRY and BEAD SHOW Tel: (852) 2766 3002 New Orleans, Louisiana
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Pontchartrain Center Email: exhibition@jewelry.org.hk Fax: (770) 410-9767
Kenner, Louisiana Web: www.jewelryshows.org Email: info@gtshows.com
Tel: (504) 455-6101 Web: www.gtshows.com
Fax: (504) 455-6157
Web: www.aksshow.com
070.CJ_WhatsOn.indd 70 11/1/10 11:19:54 AM

Jewellers Vigilance Canada Presents
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CJ_BG_Name.indd 1 10/22/10 2:29:09 PM

showcase
A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, lucy@rivegauchemedia.com or
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072-080.CJ_Showcase-Market.indd 72 10/27/10 11:55:12 AM

showcase
For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, lucy@rivegauchemedia.com
or Karolann Cassman 416-203-7900 ext. 6126, karolann@gorgmgo.com
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00
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00
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VS2-S11 J
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F.S. ENTERPRISE
www.fsenterprise.com 888.699.8947
1059Findco_DZ 1 3/16/10 1:49:00 PM

CJ_qutrPageShowCaseWoody.indd 1 10-10-01 1:46 PM J O H N ’ S
W H O L E S A L E
J E W E L R Y L T D
MANUFACTURERS & WHOLESALERS OF FINE JEWELRY
ask for our brand new Volume 17

catalogue
1-877-80-JOHNS
www.johnswholesale.ca

showcase
MCD Showcase Ad layout 7/15/10 10:39 AM Page 1
MCD Pearl Imports

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showcase
A Custom Look
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Revolution.
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Read current and past issues online. Listen to articles and podcasts.
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Canadian Jeweller Showcase & Marketplace
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marketplace
EXPRESS GOLD REFINING LTD.

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Accountant to reputed Canadian jewellers

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Subhash Sharma MBA, CMA
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100 King Street West, Suite 5700, Toronto, ON M5X 1C7
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Email: ssharma@ensassociates.ca
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GOLD DEPOT
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Insurance for Customers Jewellery
4/22/10 2:57:07 PM
1/29/10 3:14:36 PM

marketplace
ALL UNDER
H & W PERRIN Co. Ltd
Canada’s Leading Supplier of Watch & Clock Materials What’s new at Mary Jewellery?
PERRINS’ stocks a complete range of findings and settings for the jeweller and a
deep stock of materials for the clock & watchmakers
ONE ROOF
We inventory a large selection of tools, equipment & supplies for all the trades.
A long standing tradition of service since 1929.
If you aren’t doing business with us, you’re doing it the hard way! IMPERIAL
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Actual size 3.9" by 2.0"

ut 1 12/10/08 6:52 PM Page 1
Refine-All Metals Ltd.

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LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.
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OV10 While You Wait-Immediate Settlements

m Client 9999 Check our State of the art Jewellery Alloys
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Let Us EarnYour Confidence. Call us Before You Refine
21 Dundas79Sqaure,
072-080.CJ_Showcase-Market.indd Suite 311, Toronto, Ontario, M5B 1B7 10/27/10 11:58:21 AM
marketplace
The Diamonds You Need.

Calling
In Stock. Overnight. all Canadian
Jewellery Retailers...
We carry finely cut diamonds ranging

from .01 ct to 3.00 ct in a variety of
shapes including round brilliant, You’ve probably noticed a change in Canadian
princess, radiant, ascher, emerald, heart, Jeweller covers the past few issues, as they’ve featured
pear, marquise and oval. some of the top retailers in the industry. We’re always looking for
Included in our inventory are CANADIAN diamonds. new businesses to shine a spotlight on, so if you’re interested, we’d
love to hear from you.
Selection, Service and Value
a family tradition since 1955
To have your store grace the cover of an upcoming CJ, and to
www.wmolldiamonds.com expose your business to a whole new audience, make sure to send
Phone 416.364.9748 • Toll Free 1.800.361.8894 • Fax 416.364.9738
21 Dundas Square, Suite 1403 • Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7 an email request to paul@rivegauchemedia.com
GBA marketing class.:Layout 1 3/24/09 2:35 PM Page 1

classified
OWN YOUR OWN HELP WANTED FOR SALE

BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES
RECESSION RESISTANT A well established Jewellery Store is looking to
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of the job along with superior written and 1985 this business has a long history of
Expand in a Mall Near You. comprehension skills
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take control of your future! carving tools prides itself in its professional staff and Offers service in design/redesign, precise wax and
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value using a Polaris scope, refract meter, and Contact: Darryl Fox, Sunbelt Business
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other optical instruments Brokers, Saskatoon, SK. (306) 382-5075
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WE THRIVE IN ANY ECONOMY! determine specific gravity and key properties
for identification and appraisal Please email resumes to:
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Please email resumes to: jcbradleyjewellers@gmail.com
www.fastfix.com jcbradleyjewellers@gmail.com
072-080.CJ_Showcase-Market.indd 80 10/27/10 12:01:52 PM

PAGE GET FREE INFORMATION! on any product advertised in this issue
sectionhead
081 SEE A PRODUCT YOU LIKE? WANT MORE INFORMATION, ABSOLUTELY FREE?…
2. Use this quick

BY FAX 1. See product you reference list 3. Write the 4. Mail or fax us at 5. Receive free info
want info on below to find its number(s) on 1-888-849-0155 direct from as
OR MAIL free info number the attached free or 416-703-6392 many advertisers
(it’s also on the ad) info card as you like
CONNECT WITH… page write # CONNECT WITH… page write #

Stuller 2 101 Butterfly Gems 55 125
Sapir 3 102 Hong Kong Trade Dev. 59 126
Jewellers Vigilance (JVC) 4 103 PH Design 61 127
Jewellers Mutual 5 104 Westmount Store fixtures 65 128
JA New York 6 105 Karat Imports 25 129
Baselworld 7 106 Jewellers Vigilance (JVC)/Glitter Of Hope 71 130
Blue Point Jewellery 8 107 Jomark 83 131
Cool Stuff 9 108 Mirage 84 132
Crown Ring 11 109 Crown Ring Breanna Collection 16 140
Image Fifth Avenue 13 110 Westmount Store Fixtures 16 141
Pandora 15 111 Polar Gem 16 142
Low Cost Leader 17 112 Low Cost Leader 16 143
123 Proto 19 113 Jewelers Mutual Insurance 18 144
Polar Gem 25 115 Jomark Chiampesan 18 145
Nova 27 116 Ed Hardy Brand Jewelry 18 146
Gee N’ Gee 29 114 BASELWORLD 2011 18 147
PH Design 31 117 Butterfly Gems - BFly Collection 20 148
MDC Pearls 33 118 PlasticChic 20 149
Rousseau 34 119 Image Fifth Ave. 20 150
Crown Ring 35 120 Pandora 20 151
Polar Group/Polar Ice 37 121 Mirage/Nova 21 152
O’Neill 41 122 Stuller 21 153
Smokecloak 43 123 PH Design 21 154
Wall to Wall 54 124 Polar Ice Canadian Diamonds 21 155
STEP 1
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To receive free information you must print clearly and fill out form completely.
STEP 2 To qualify, check circles:

 No, don’t send
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 under 1,000 sq.ft.  1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft.
Signature: __________________________________________ Date: _______________ Which category best describes your  3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft.  over 5,000 sq.ft.
business classification?
Your Name: _________________________________________ Title: ________________  Education
Approximate annual sales volume
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 Manufacturer
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STEP 3 Reserved exclusively for retailers

NOVEMBER 2010
WRITE IN THE NUMBERS HERE FOR
EACH PRODUCT YOU WANT MORE Example
DETAILED INFORMATION ON
USE QUICK REFERENCE LIST AT TOP OF PAGE

101
STEP 4
Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8
000.CJ_FaxBack.indd 81 11/1/10 10:33:51 AM

lastword
growth progress
Benjamin Franklin once said :
“ improvement
Without continual and ,
achievement success
such words as ,
” and have no meaning.

St-Onge Fine Jewellery is a Montreal-based family business that, over the last 30 years, has been pushing the boundaries of growth and change. Its
“Lanterne” pendant is a beauty: white 18k gold with palladium alloy, 18k pink gold, one blue cabochon sapphire and 10 round blue sapphires. Not only
does it blend the conventional with the unconventional, but it also offers a glimpse into the future of design and trends in 2011. While all the pieces in the
collection are manufactured in Canada, the family has a strong retail following, extending as far as Dubai. Valued at $2,355.
— Paul Aguirre
082.CJ_LastWord.indd 82 10/27/10 10:33:45 AM

chiampesan This company has a concept that summarizes almost
50 Years of values that Chiampeasan has never lost
sight of. Beauty, elegance and Style are the corner
stone for all its activities. To create jewels that can be
worn in any occasion.
JOMARK
DISTRIBUTORS
Luxurious... Opulence... Lavishness
First in Distributing the
World’s Finest Italian Jewellery!
John Di Scola
Tel: (416)606-0369 Fax: (905)264-8419 email:jomarkgold@yahoo.com
CJ.Nov_Jomark.indd 1 10/22/10 1:21:39 PM

PR745W
PR745
PRM207
PRM168
Mirage Creations Inc.

221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4
Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677
www.miragecreations.com e-mail: info@miragecreations.com
CJ_NOV_MIrage.indd 1 10/22/10 11:50:49 AM

Canadian Jeweller November 2010 Issue

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Canadian Jeweller November 2010 Issue

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NOVEMBER 2010

for the business of retailing jewellery

Reclaiming the Throne

whole new demographic

Hot Like Fire

New Alloys Market

001.CJ_Cover.indd 2 10/27/10 2:20:54 PM

And behind every great jeweller, there’s Stuller.

For Details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 81

The DTC logo is a trademark used under license from DTC.

CJ_NOV_Stuller.indd 1 10/22/10 9:55:57 AM

25 2.33 RBC E SI2 8.45x8.51x5.27 62.1 59.8 EX VG NONE -25% HW VG

Canada’s REAL Diamond House.

CJ_NOV_SAPIR.indd 1 10/22/10 11:01:29 AM

Arm yourself with knowledge and tools to protect your business.

Sign up now at www.jewellerycrimecanada.ca or call 1-800-636-9536

For Details, write #103 on Free Info Page, page 81

Jewellers Vigilance Canada

For details, write #109 on Free Info Page, page 81

PERSONAL JEWELRY INSURANCE

CJ_NOV_JewelersMutual.indd 1 10/22/10 11:02:54 AM

around the world will showcase the latest jewelry designs.

and differentiate yourself from your competition.

For Details, write #105 on Free Info Page, page 81

CJ_NOV_JANY.indd 1 10/22/10 1:24:33 PM

bsw11_kamp_229x276_e.indd 1 12.08.10 15:28

Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com

CONTRIBUTORS Kim Goodyear, Martin Irving, Edward T. Krupka,

Jeff Yamaguchi ADVERTISING Sales

Karolann Cassman ADVERTISING Sales

CIRCULATION PUBLICATION PARTNERS

Head Office 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106

Montreal Office 555 Chabanel Street West, Suite 1507

Official magazine of JVC

For details, write #107 on Free Info Page, page 81

008.CJ_Masthead.indd 8 10/27/10 10:02:25 AM

• Complete line of styles and colours

Time to Get Back to Nature

CJ_Full_Page_WoodyAD_V2.indd 1 10-10-01 1:44 PM

CJ_NOV_CoolStuff.indd 1 10/22/10 11:04:09 AM

44 All About Bogart’s

56 Affordable Luxury: The New fashion jewellery

010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 10 10/27/10 1:37:46 PM

000.CJ.Nov.Crown(alloy).indd 1 10/22/10 11:05:16 AM

34 Stock Index 72 Showcase

36 Mining Feature 78 Marketplace

Burr tricks for setters.

010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 12 11/1/10 10:18:09 AM

No less intriguing is Rooney’s idiosycratic philosophy of

Finally, in an age when pundits and retail specialists

The Editorial Team

014.CJ_GuestEditor.indd 14 11/1/10 10:27:40 AM

U.S. Pat. No. 7,007,507 • • © • All rights reserved

For Details, write #111 on Free Info Page, page 81

CJ_NOV_Pandora.indd 1 10/22/10 11:06:50 AM

Breanna Collection: Custom Look with Tecno Displays

016-021.CJ_Product.indd 16 11/1/10 10:14:58 AM

Personal Jewelry Insurance

Ed Hardy Brand Jewelry

016-021.CJ_Product.indd 18 11/1/10 11:02:11 AM

016-021.CJ_Product.indd 20 11/1/10 11:02:42 AM

New Bridal Styles from Stuller

PH Design Polar Ice Canadian Diamonds