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Port Angeles’ haunted history on tour
‘NOT A FORTUNE TELLER’
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LEGENDS, LORE AND MORE
Chilling tales from the West End
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4 Living on the Peninsula Fall 2018

 fall 2018
07 10
Table of Contents
06 | peninsula events calendar
Check out what’s happening on the Peninsula in
September, October, November and December

07 | arts, culture and entertainment

Storytellers are ready to share ghost stories,
spooky tales and storytelling secrets this fall

10Visitors
| buried in the past
17 20
can dig up the secrets of the Port Angeles
Underground thanks to local tour group

14 | outdoor recreation
Three cyclists ride more than 130 miles from
Port Townsend to La Push in two days

17 | meet the psychics

Women practice intuitive arts and guide others
toward answers about life and death

20 | legends, lore and true stories

These mysteries and tall tales have yet to be
solved on the West End of the Peninsula
24 | the daytripper
Lake Quinault Lodge is a chance for a relaxing
weekend getaway, even if the snow sets in
ON THE COVER
A group of visitors are taken on a tour on the second floor of the Family Shoe Store
in Port Angeles. This second floor, originally called The Portland Rooms and later
changed to The Essen Rooms, was a brothel until it was forced to close in the 1940s.
photo by Laura Lofgren

28 | pinch of peninsula LIVING ON THE PENINSULA

The Salty Girls of Sequim share their recipe for
a lot of clam chowder. Bring friends to this feast! Vol. 14, No. 3
Produced and published by

29 | the living end PENINSULA DAILY NEWS and SEQUIM GAZETTE Advertising Department
305 W. First St., Port Angeles, WA 98362 • 360-452-2345 • peninsuladailynews.com
Go out into your world with eyes open, ears alert
and soul ready to receive to new experiences 147 W. Washington St., Sequim, WA 98382 • 360-683-3311 • sequimgazette.com

Terry R. Ward, regional publisher | Steve Perry, general manager

Editorial & Production:

Brenda Hanrahan & Laura Lofgren, special sections editors

Advertising Sales:
360-683-3311 • 360-452-2345
©2018 Peninsula Daily News | ©2018 Sequim Gazette

FaLL 2018 Living on the PeninsuLa 5

 CALENDAR OF EVENTS
SEPTEMBER, OCTOBER, NOVEMBER & DECEMBER 2018
SEPTEMBER
FORKS/WEST END
•  Sept. 13-16: Forever Twilight in Forks, various
locations and times.
•  Sept. 15: Forks High School 5K Fun Run, walk
or run, Forks High School parking lot, 261 Spartan
Ave., 7:30 a.m. to 9 a.m.
•  Sept. 16: “The Redcoats Retreat” 5K Fun Run,
Elk Creek Conservation Area, 2290 Calawah Way,
4:15 p.m. to 5:45 p.m.
•  Sept. 18: Forks History and More, First
Congregational Church, 280 Spartan Ave.,
11:30 a.m.
•  Sept. 22: Olympic National Park free entrance
to celebrate National Public Lands Day.
•  Sept. 22-23: West End Thunder Drag Races,
Forks Municipal Airport, gate opens at 8:30 a.m.
•  Sept. 22: Walk Run Hope 2018 at Mary Clark
Road pit to Cooper Ranch Road, 10 a.m.
PORT ANGELES
•  Sept. 22: Big Hurt multi-sport race, locations/
various times.
•  Sept. 21-23: Arts & Draughts Beer & Wine
Festival, downtown, various times.
•  Sept. 22: Olympic National Park free entrance
celebrates National Public Lands Day.
Sept. 28: Pops & Picnic!, 7 p.m., Vern Burton
Community Center, 308 E. Fourth St.
•  Sept. 29: American Sprint Boat Racing,
Extreme Sports Park, 2917 W. Edgewood Drive.
•  Sept. 29 to Oct. 1: Cascadia Mountain Bike
Championships, Dry Hill, various race times.
SEQUIM
•  Morning Bird Walks, Wednesdays throughout
the year, Dungeness River Audubon Center in
Railroad Bridge Park, 8:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m.
•  First Friday Art Walks, every month, art venues
throughout Sequim, 5 p.m. to 8 p.m.
•  Sept. 15: Waterfront Days at John Wayne
Marina, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.
•  Sept. 15: 26th annual Reach and Row For Hos-
pice, John Wayne Marina, noon to 4 p.m.
•  Sept. 21-23: Sequim Pickleball Club Tournament
— The Blue Hole Bash at the pickleball courts at
Carrie Blake Park, 202 N. Sequim Ave.
•  Sept. 22: Fore The Kids Olympic Peninsula
YMCA Golf Tournament, The Cedars at Dunge-
ness, 1965 Woodcock Road, 9 a.m. to noon.
•  Sept. 27-28: Dungeness River Festival at Rail-
road Bridge Park, 2151 W. Hendrickson Road,
4 p.m. to 7 p.m. on Sept. 27, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on
Sept. 28.
PORT TOWNSEND/JEFFERSON COUNTY
•  Sept. 12-16: Centrum’s Ukulele Festival, Fort
Worden State Park, 200 Battery Way, various times.
•  Sept. 14-15: Cabin Fever Quilt Show, Jefferson
County Fairgrounds, 4907 Landes St., 10 a.m. to
5 p.m.
•  Sept. 15-16: Jefferson County Farm Tour, variety
6 Living on the Peninsula Fall 2018
of farms, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
•  Sept. 21-23: 19th annual Port Townsend Film
Festival, variety of locations and times.
OCTOBER
FORKS/WEST END
•  Oct. 6-7: Hobuck Hoedown Paddle Surf Festival
at Hobuck Beach in Neah Bay, various times.
•  Oct. 10-14: Hickory Shirt/Heritage Days, many
events at Rainforest Arts Center, 35 N. Forks Ave.
•  Oct. 16: Forks History and More, First Congre-
gational Church, 280 Spartan Ave., 11:30 a.m.
PORT ANGELES
•  Oct. 5-7: Dungeness Crab & Seafood Festival,
City Pier, Gateway Transit Center and other down-
town locations in Port Angeles, various times.
•  Oct. 19-21: Forest Storytelling Festival, Peninsula
College’s Little Theater, 1502 E. Lauridsen Blvd.
•  Oct. 28: Harvest of Harmony: An Afternoon of
Music presented by the Grand Olympics Chorus
(of Sweet Adelines International), First Presbyte-
rian Church, 139 W. Eighth St., 2:30 p.m.
•  Oct. 31: Downtown Trick-or-Treat, variety of
downtown businesses, 2 p.m. to 5 p.m.
SEQUIM
•  Oct. 5: Mad Hatters Tea Luncheon for Breast
Cancer fundraiser, Sequim Community Church,
950 N. 5th Ave., 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
•  Oct. 10: Free Working on Wellness (WOW!)
Forum, Trinity United Methodist Church, 100 S.
Blake Ave., 2:30 p.m. to 3:30 p.m.
•  Oct. 19-21 and Oct. 26-28: “Sylvia,” Olympic
Theatre Arts, 414 N. Sequim Ave., times vary by
performance day.
•  Oct. 27: Harvest of Harmony: An Afternoon of
Music by the Grand Olympics Chorus (of Sweet
Adelines International), Trinity United Methodist
Church, 100 S. Blake Ave., 2:30 p.m. 
•  Oct. 31: Downtown Trick-or-Treat, various loca-
tions in downtown Sequim, 3 p.m. to 5 p.m.
PORT TOWNSEND/JEFFERSON COUNTY
•  Oct. 6-7: The Great Port Townsend Bay Kinetic
Sculpture Race, various location and times.
•  Oct. 6: Art Walk, 5:30 p.m. to 8 p.m.
•  Oct. 18-20 and Oct. 25-27: Kiwanis Haunt Town,
Port Townsend Elks Lodge, 555 Otto St.
•  Oct. 31: Port Townsend Main Street Downtown
Trick-or-Treat and Costume Parade, parade starts
at 1st Security Plaza, 734 Water St., 4 p.m.
NOVEMBER
FORKS/WEST END
•  Nov. 11: Olympic National Park free entrance
to celebrate Veterans Day.
•  Nov. 20: Forks History and More, First Congre-
gational Church, 280 Spartan Ave., 11:30 a.m.
•  Nov. 22: Fourth annual Turkey Trot, run or
walk the Elk Creek Conservation Trail, sign up
at 8 a.m., race starts at 9 a.m.
PORT ANGELES
•  Nov. 11: Olympic National Park Free Entrance
Day to celebrate Veterans Day.
•  Nov. 24: Home Town Holiday Tree Lighting
and Santa arrival, Conrad Dyar Memorial Foun-
tain, intersection of First and Laurel streets in
downtown Port Angeles, starts at 3:30 p.m.
•  Nov. 24 to Jan 6: Port Angeles Winter Ice
Village, downtown, various times
SEQUIM
•  Nov. 1-4: “Sylvia,” Olympic Theatre Arts, 414 N.
Sequim Ave., times vary by performance day.
•  Nov. 24: Home Town Holidays! at Centennial
Place, corner of Sequim Avenue and Washington
Street, 1:30 p.m. to 5:30 p.m.
PORT TOWNSEND/JEFFERSON COUNTY
•  Nov. 23-24: Port Townsend Arts Guild Holiday
Craft Sale, Port Townsend Community Center,
620 Tyler St., 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
DECEMBER
FORKS/WEST END
•  Dec. 1: Breakfast with Santa, Forks Congrega-
tional Church, 280 Spartan Ave., 8 a.m. to 11 a.m.
•  Dec. 1: 17th annual Twinkle Light Parade on
Forks Avenue, 6:30 p.m. to 6:45 p.m.
•  Dec. 8-9: Soroptimist International of the Olym-
pic Rain Forest Festival of Trees, Rainforest Arts
Center, 35 N. Forks Ave., various times
•  Dec. 18: Forks History and More, First Congre-
gational Church, 280 Spartan Ave.,11:30 a.m.
PORT ANGELES
•  Dec. 1-2: Christmas Fair, Port Angeles Vern
Burton Community Center, 308 E. Fourth St.,
various times
•  Throughout December: Port Angeles Winter
Ice Village, downtown, various times.
SEQUIM
•  Dec. 7: First Friday - Meet the Artist!, Blue
Whole Gallery, 129 W. Washington St., 5 p.m. to
8 p.m.
PORT TOWNSEND/JEFFERSON COUNTY
•  Dec. 1: Main Street Treelighting Celebration and
Santa Visit, treelighting and Santa visit, Haller Foun-
tain, 4:30 p.m. Santa visits with children afterwards at
Pope Marine Building, 100 Madison St.
•  Dec. 8 and 15: Main Street/Kiwanis Choo Choo
Rides for Families, at Pope Marine Park, on Water
Street between Madison and Monroe streets, 1 p.m.
to 4 p.m.
•  Dec. 8-9: 32nd annual Chimacum Craft Fair, 91
West Valley Road, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
•  Dec. 15: Open Parlor Tours, self-guided tour of his-
toric inns and homes in Port Townsend, noon to 4 p.m.
All event information listed here is up to date as of
press time.
Do you have an event you’d like to see listed in our
December edition of Living on the Peninsula? Email
special sections editor Laura Lofgren at llofgren@
soundpublishing.com with your late-December,
January, February and March event information.
Publication of submitted events is not guaranteed.
 ARTS, CULTURE & ENTERTAINMENT

Ghost stories,
spooky tales
and messengers

Rebecca Hom will appear at the Forest Storytelling Festival

this October in Port Angeles. photo by Ingrid Nixon

By Diane Urbani de la Paz
This woman lives alone in a farmhouse in Dungeness,
having said farewell to her sea captain husband. Except
he’s not gone. The seafarer’s ship sank, yes. Yet he keeps
his widow company in the form of a ghost, a presence,
a vaporous member of the household. Our lady knows
the ghost is with her when she hears her antique rocking
chair sway.
As Ingrid Nixon tells this story, she has a particu-
lar dwelling in mind. It’s a Gothic Revival farmhouse
built 156 years ago — looming to this day not far from
Dungeness Bay. She doesn’t tell her audience the place
of which she speaks.
But some listeners, when they hear the ghost story, say
they picture it inside the McAlmond House, a relic of
the New Dungeness settlement of the mid-1800s.
Turns out that’s the very one Nixon is thinking of.
Built by ship’s carpenters for Capt. Elijah H. McAlmond
and fairly close by Nixon’s place, the big old house
inspired her spooky tale.
A nationally known storyteller who’s long been part
of the nonprofit group the Story People of Clallam
County, Nixon loves the scary stuff. She knows exactly
how to take you by the hand and guide you down that
winding path.
This fall, she’ll be at the Forest Storytelling Festival,
a weekend spiced with pre-Halloween ghost stories and
other tales likely to unnerve.
The festival, Oct. 19-21 at the main Peninsula Col-
lege campus in Port Angeles, is put on by the nonprofit
Story People of Clallam County. It promises concerts,
workshops, story swaps — and this year, performances
by a man who specializes in spine-tinglers.
Jeff Doyle, founder of the Scary Story Festival of
Howell, Mich., is still choosing which tales to tell at the
event.
He’s a featured performer alongside Minton Sparks, a
Tennessean who blends honky-tonk music with spoken
word; Thomas Doty, whose family connections include
the Takelma and Shasta people of the Klamath Moun-
tains; griot storyteller Decee Cornish; Israeli actress Noa
Baum; and storyteller-novelist Rachel Dunstan Muller.
For information about festival tickets, tellers and
activities, visit ClallamStoryPeople.org.
ENJOYING THE SCARE
Before we dip into how to tell a good ghost story, let’s
consider why so many of us, children, grown-ups and
those in between, so want fright. Nixon, for her part,
thinks we bravely enter the creepy world created by the
storyteller because it’s a step away from our workaday
lives. In a way, she believes, scary stories let us play with
strange ideas.
“Perhaps,” Nixon wonders, “in allowing ourselves to
be scared, we discover how to deal with fear?”
Besides, we just relish the shivers, added Rebecca
Hom, another scary-story expert.
Artistic director and performer at the Forest Storytell-
ing Festival, she likes a ghost story that reveals a message
at the end. One of her favorites, “The Linen Shroud,” is
about selfishness — and the possibility of forgiveness if
one makes amends.
FaLL 2018 Living on the PeninsuLa 7
 Hom tells lots of shivery tales, including one from
her own experience.
Two summers ago, she and her husband visited Big
Hole National Battlefield, the Montana historic site
where, in August 1877, an estimated 70 to 90 members
of the Nez Perce tribe died at the hands of the U.S.
Army.
Though suffering from a migraine headache that
made it difficult to walk, Hom was determined to start
down the interpretive trail.
The first thing she remembers seeing was a sign ask-
ing visitors to be respectful of this sacred ground.
“As we came to the sign, I felt something at my el-
bow,” maybe just a finger and thumb touching her arm.
A muscle cramp, Hom thought.
She kept walking from teepee to teepee as her husband
read to her from a pamphlet provided at the trailhead.
When they came to one of the last spots, he handed
the pamphlet to her and said, “Why don’t you read
about this one?”
This teepee had been a birthing lodge, she learned. A
midwife, mother and child had been killed inside it.
Hom felt the hand tug at her elbow again, though no
one appeared to be there.
She finished the loop trail and, struggling with her
headache, walked with her husband to their vehicle.
Silently, she asked: What do you want me to do?
“Just tell the story,” the ghost responded.
At various gatherings since that day, Hom has done
so.
Sometimes, “ghosts don’t mean us any harm,” she
said.
“They just want the story told.”
The timing of her visit to Big Hole, and especially
the birthing lodge, taught her about waiting; attending
to something as subtle as the touch on her arm.
Taking a pause, Hom added, is a potent method in
storytelling. Waiting for just a beat, letting your words
hang in the silent air: These enhance a ghost story.
Listeners are lured closer. The connection between
speaker and audience grows stronger.
Doyle, too, knows this well, having started out as a
storyteller on camping trips with his children.
“Tell about what scares you,” he advises. “If I think it’s
creepy, then other people will,” especially if you have a
campfire and darkness on your side.
Ingrid Nixon, here as mistress of ceremonies at Does he believe in ghosts?
a May 2017 story slam at Sequim’s Olympic “Of course I do,” Doyle said immediately.
Theatre Arts, has tips on how to tell a potent “I do believe there are things that want to communi-
cate with us … And strange things happen, things that
ghost story. photo by Diane Urbani de la Paz are unexplained.”

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8 Living on the Peninsula Fall 2018
 STORIES, SWAPS AND FESTIVALS
The nonprofit Story People of Clallam County invite storytellers of all levels
— and listeners — to their monthly Story Swap and to the 24th annual Forest
Storytelling Festival, both in Port Angeles.
Admission is free to the Story Swap, held at 7 p.m. on the third Tuesday of
each month in the Raymond Carver Room at the Port Angeles Library,
2210 S. Peabody St. A featured teller steps up for the first 40 minutes; then
comes a refreshment break. An open-mic section for storytellers rounds out
the evening.
The Oct. 19-21 Forest Storytelling Festival is a weekend full of performanc-
es, workshops and camaraderie at Peninsula College’s main campus,
1502 E. Lauridsen Blvd. Tickets to the concerts by featured tellers from
around the world range from $10 to $20, while workshops cost $20. A free
story swap and open mic happens on Saturday, Oct. 20, and a free public
concert of inspirational stories by festival featured tellers is set for Sunday, Jeff Doyle, founder of the Scary Story Festival in
Oct. 21. Howell, Mich., will bring his creepy tales to Port
For lots more information about storytelling activities, visit Angeles this fall. photo courtesy of Jeff Doyle
ClallamStoryPeople.org, or phone Erran Sharpe at 360-460-6594.
ence that what you are telling is scary. our own lives and how we move through
Instead, use your language, silences and the world. For an example, she casts her
TIPS FOR TELLING •  Make your creepy story plausible, at movement to draw them in to judge the eyes to another tale starring spirits from
Then there’s Nixon, who has a master’s least at the start … creepiness of the situation. the beyond.
degree in storytelling from East Tennessee •  Let the suspense build as the story •  Know your audience. You don’t want “In Charles Dickens’ ‘A Christmas
State University, which is not far from the develops. to tell kids stories that will scar them for Carol,’ perhaps one of the most famous
National Storytelling Festival in Jonesbor- •  If you speak softly, the audience will life. ghost stories of all time,” Nixon noted,
ough, Tenn., where she has performed. need to quiet down and lean in. “Ebenezer Scrooge meets up with four
She’s happy to offer succinct tips in •  Don’t rush the story; take your time. A ghost story is especially satisfying ghosts that inspire him to change his way
effective scariness: •  Don’t try to convince your audi- when, Nixon added, it helps us explore of living.” 

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 BURIED
IN THE
PAST

Port Angeles has a wealth of history above and below its

downtown streets. Port Angeles Underground Heritage Tours
takes visitors to a time of intensive restructure,
sordid dealings, paranormal experiences and community
developments that give the city its strong heritage.
Story and photos by Laura Lofgren

10 Living on the PeninsuLa FaLL 2018

 Tour attendees listen intently as Erlwein enthusiastically
describes Port Angeles’ beginnings.

locals for almost three years.
But tour guide was not part of his
original career plans.
“I was a teacher and instructor ... but
weapons and tactics don’t necessarily lend
themselves well to tourism,” he laughed.
“I was just lucky to have the energetic
personality to be able to tell the story.”
Erlwein stepped into the field easily
after a trip with his son, Wyatt.
“I was back in town for a couple of
weeks in between jobs and I went on the
tour with my son’s [Boy] Scout troop,” he
said.
On his way back to school on the GI
Bill and looking for work, Erlwein asked
Perry if he needed a part-time guide.
Tour operator Bruce Erlwein explains the initial history Port Angeles Perry was on the verge of retirement, and
at Smuggler’s Landing Restaurant & Lounge. the timing worked out well.
“It’s just been a great opportunity for
in a ‘boring little town’ and I couldn’t
wait to get away. So I was gone for almost
16 years and I came back and I found this
history and I thought it was the coolest
thing.
“That’s kind of what inspired this
move. I wanted to stay here. I wanted to
be local again.”
Today’s tours — some led by Erlwein
and some by Stepp — meet at the Port
Angeles Visitors Center then head up-
stairs to Smuggler’s Landing Restaurant
& Lounge, with the tour guide sharing
old photos of the town from the early
1900s and telling the initial history of
Port Angeles.
On a recent tour with Erlwein, his
enthusiasm for the history of the city
comes through during his thorough and
thoughtful explanations of events (such as

B
uried beneath the city of Port
Angeles is a rich history.
In a short amount of time, the
seat of Clallam County has been filled
with astounding endeavors that have
enriched this community’s strength and
endurance.
These fascinating memories are shared
in an engaging downtown tour thanks to
conversations with generations of local
families, along with extensive research
from history lovers.
Tour operator Bruce Erlwein, along
with Bob Stepp, owner/operator of the
Port Angeles-Victoria Tourist Bureau,
continue the operation of the Port Ange-
les Underground Heritage Tours.
These two Port Angeles natives carry
on the work of Don Perry, a former Port
Angeles deputy mayor and historian who
is credited with saving the Port Angeles
Underground and its history. He passed
away in October 2016.
Perry’s research has been the solid
foundation of the tour, which has been
around for about 20 years.
ety) archives and the Port Angeles city me,” he said. “I thought it was a really the Sluicing the Hogback), and engineer-
archives, plus the occasional discovery of cool aspect of my community. ing feats (raising downtown buildings
tales kept alive by families of those who “I was one of those kids who grew up several feet with screw jacks).
were in Port Angeles in the early 1900s.
“We were so fortunate to have had
Don with the passion that he had for our PORT ANGELES UNDERGROUND HERITAGE TOURS
local history,” Erlwein said. “He got a lot
of first-hand information from people, • Tours start at the Port Angeles Visitors Center, 121 E. Railroad Ave.
and those people are gone now. • May-October tours take place Mondays-Saturdays at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m.
“It’s really challenging to get our his-
• November-April tours take place Mondays-Saturdays at 2 p.m.
tory at this point in time ... at least to get
the backstory that makes it valuable and • Haunted tours will take place in October (schedule to be announced).
interesting. We’re really lucky to have • Visit portangelesheritagetours.com or email info@portangelesheritage
Don who did so much of that research.” tours.com for more information and to book your tour.
Cameras, history books and writing
weren’t around much in the city’s early
days, so it has been left in a lot of ways to
the families of Port Angeles to preserve
their history through family logs, journals
and, hopefully, photos.
“I feel like it’s been really challenging
to build that depth,” Erlwein said.
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Fall 2018 Living on the Peninsula 11

Tour guide Bob Stepp explains the fragile structure of
old windows underneath the sidewalk at the corner of
North Laurel and Front streets in Port Angeles.
882195482
12 Living on the Peninsula Fall 2018
The Underground was created in 1914
to solve a significant and smelly problem.
Much of the downtown was on mud flats,
and businesses built on piers and docks had
privies over Port Angeles Harbor.
When the tide was out, all was well.
When it came in ...
Faced with raw sewage on the beaches
and a downtown that flooded with every
rainstorm and high tide (about 50 times
a year), the Port Angeles City Council in
January 1914 voted to raise the down-
town street level by more than 10 feet to
lift it above the tidal flats.
In the endeavor known as the Sluic-
ing of the Hogback, the city used water
cannons to move soil from the hill east of
downtown to concrete forms lining the
streets and raised the streets above the
sea-level mudflats.
The process — completed June 22,
1944 — left some buildings with a new
front door one level above the old one
and created the Port Angeles Under-
ground, a series of tunnels underneath
the oldest part of downtown.
With a group of 12 — tourists mostly
from Victoria, plus Florida and Olympia
— Erlwein then wrangled the history-
seekers back down onto the street to
continue the tour.
On his tours, Erlwein can alter his
stories without losing the facts to meet
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the pace of his group.
“I can modify and adjust stories if
people are determined to move slowly
between points,” he said. “I don’t leave
anything, but there’s less fanfare around
certain things. I have it pretty well set up
that it’s a leisurely pace. Nobody should
be sweating by the end of it ... except me.”
On the tour, visitors can expect four
flights of stairs and to cover about four
blocks of walking.
Among the places guests visit during the
walking tour, the basement of Sound Bikes
& Kayaks has a colorful background.
There are preserved murals of pictur-
esque mountains below the showroom
that surround an area that once was home
to a fun children’s game. There was even
a special area for dad to relax (but you’ll
have to take the tour to find out more!).
Visiting from Tampa Bay, Florida,
Denise and Henry Bissonnette said they
were having a great time on the tour.
“He’s very passionate,” Denise said of
Erlwein. “I had no idea this was all here.”
Back outside, visitors will pass the city’s
original movie theater as well as the first
gas station.
The first Underground experience is
on North Laurel Street. Groups descend
the staircase next to New Day Eatery,
where they are met with a boardwalk that
leads to a former youth athletic club.
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been erected to remember Perry and his
work with the city’s Underground.
On this original level of the downtown,
visitors can look up through the square
skylights to the sidewalk above and
admire original windows from the early
1900s.
In this corridor, tour guides remind
groups of the laborious hours that were
put into raising the streets — hours that
included laying cement with only five-
gallon buckets.
The final stop on the tour is the Family
Shoe Store, Port Angeles’ oldest building.
With original flooring and relics from the
past, this business provides a look at the
community’s logging industry as well as
some sordid dealings upstairs.
Known as the Essen Rooms, the hotel
upstairs was home to a madame and her
working girls (about nine of them at a
time).
On the tour, Erlwein massages the
story a bit, depending on the age range in
his group.
“I don’t get tremendously graphic,” he
said. “I feel like a lot’s lost when you get
too graphic.”
People have good imaginations, he
said, so he doesn’t have to give away too
much detail.
The tour ends with the group visiting
several bedrooms, the kitchen and one
bathroom and the guide explaining the
sometimes humorous dealings of the Es-
sen Rooms and its clients (the huge alarm
for the madame to sound when the police
showed up is just one highlight).
One of the best parts about the tour,
Erlwein said, is getting to interact with
local businesses.
“Our local businesses have been so
supportive to keep our history in this area
alive. ... We have an incredible team that
comes together,” he said.
These businesses allow entry into the
Underground that is sometimes accessed
where store customers can see.
An old photo shows Port Angeles in July 1926,
about 11 years after the beginning of the city’s
project to elevate the downtown streets.
There’s some give-and-take between
the tours and businesses: Erlwein recom-
mends shopping there, and customers
see the tours come through and become
intrigued.
“I really feel like we’ve struck an in-
credible balance between actual accurate
history while keeping a certain level of
entertainment.”
A HAUNTED PORT ANGELES?
This October, Erlwein will once again
give haunted tours of the downtown area
for a flat rate of $20 per person.
This year’s haunted tours will have the
benefit of an extra helping hand. Erlwein
is bringing on someone who has more of
a “flair for drama” to assist in making the
tour extra creepy.
Two places specifically are visited dur-
ing the haunted tours (Erlwein won’t say
where in order to keep it all a surprise).
At these sites, Erlwein said, there was a
paranormal investigation team that came
through to analyze the spaces and got
some ... results.
In 2010, the team of paranormal inves-
tigators, along with Perry and a few local
residents, set up in the Underground,
using sensitive recording equipment and
magnetic sensors.
One visitor took a photo of Perry in
an underground tunnel, and in the initial
viewing of the photo on the computer
screen, it appeared there were three faces Tour operator Bruce Erlwein explains the mystery and history
peering out of the grimy antique window
of the abandoned storefront behind him.
behind the basement area of Sound Bikes & Kayaks.
At another stop, Erlwein said, all
sorts of weird things started happening. with a laugh. reports of voices and shadowy figures.
Fully charged batteries started dying all “I’m not really a ghost guy [but] some- But don’t let this tale ruin your meal.
together, and some infrared night vision times I get a weird feeling down there.” These things tend to happen late at night
equipment captured some “pretty bizarre Probably the most ghostly experience when the restaurant is closing.
movements.” Erlwein said he has had was when he was
As for any other random, paranormal on a tour with a family. A DYNAMIC HISTORY
activity, Erlwein is stoic. They were in one of the tunnels when Port Angeles’ young history is full of
“Anything weird that happens in those a little girl asked if there were ghosts remarkable accomplishments by those
basements I write it off to anything I can. down there. Erlwein looked at her and who saw it fit to grow and expand her
‘Oh no, it was windy that day ... so that’s humorlessly said, “Yes.” streets.
why that door slammed shut,” he said At that same moment, a nearby door And its history runs parallel with the
slammed shut. other towns all across the North Olympic
“That was probably the most convinc- Peninsula Coast.
ing thing I’ve experienced down there These tours are just a taste of what life
just because of the timing.” was like back in the earliest days of our
communities.
A QUICK GHOST STORY “It’s a very dynamic history,” Erlwein
While Erlwein is not forthcoming in said. “It’s not old history, but the stuff that
telling ghost stories that are narrated has happened here it’s incredible.”
on the tour (keeping things mysterious “I’m honored that as a son of Port An-
is part of his job), he did share a well- geles, I can go away for so long and come
known tale about Michael’s Seafood and back and ... I get to carry this message to
Steakhouse. tourists. I get to help represent our town
Known as the “Black Shadow,” this to people from all over the world.
dark entity has been seen on the stairs of “It’s one of those incredible parts of
the restaurant and other various spaces of our community that needs to be pre-
the main dining area. served. It needs to survive.” 
In the hallway connecting the bar and Laura Lofgren is a special sections editor
main dining room to the secondary din- at Peninsula Daily News. Reach her at
ing room and restrooms, there have been llofgren@peninsuladailynews.com.
Fall 2018 Living on the Peninsula 13
OUTDOOR RECREATION
2 DAYS ...
130 MILES ...
3 HAPPY RIDERS
A two-wheeled adventure from the Salish Sea to the Pacific Ocean
By Michael Dashiell
Let me start by saying that writing this
was probably a bad idea from the get-go.
Being the kind of person who needs a
little motivation to get his exercise I, like
a person who does his grocery shopping
while hungry, tend to have eyes bigger
than my stomach.
And so it was one fine spring day
when I casually mentioned to a friend
how interesting it would be to take some
road bikes from one end of the North
Olympic Peninsula to the other, to “get
out” and “see our fine Peninsula in all its
splendor.”
… And try to not die while doing it.
One small catch: I hadn’t been on a
road bike for roughly three decades. And
I didn’t own a bike at the time. And I had
little bike-specific conditioning. Would
that be a problem? Surely not!
And so it came to pass that a trio of
friends — Dave Toman, Stu Marcy
and myself — made a pact that in early
August, we’d try our legs, so to speak,
at what’s commonly referred to at the
Port-to-Push trek, riding (about) 130
miles over two days (hey, we weren’t
crazy enough to do it in one) from Port
Townsend to La Push.
My non-cycling friends basically said,
“Wow, that’s crazy.” My cycling friends
said, “So, 130 miles over two days …
what’s the big deal?”
And then I told them how little I had
biked in the past, oh, lifetime.
“Oh, OK. Hmm. Yeah, that’s crazy,”
they said.
PRE-TRIP PLANNING
Using the much-traveled Toman as our
trip guru, we mapped out a Port-to-Push
plan: Use the Olympic Discovery Trail
14 Living on the Peninsula Fall 2018
Dave Toman, Stu Marcy and Michael Dashiell are ready
to begin their Port-to-Push adventure. submitted photo
(ODT) (and Larry Scott Memorial Trail
in the beginning) as much as possible
from point to point, with some requisite
miles on our highways.
Two bicyclists (with the third behind the
camera) traverse the Olympic Discovery Trail
via the ever-impressive Johnson Creek Trestle.
photo by Michael Dashiell
The plan came with stops to “refuel”
at key eateries, including the Blue Moose
Cafe in Port Townsend, Black Bear Diner
in Sequim and Hungry Bear Cafe near
Beaver. Basically, if a large animal is sell-
ing food, we were eating it.
We also had to choose a path to get
around Lake Crescent. That meant making
our way on the Spruce Railroad Trail with
its slim, one-track, rocky routes or taking
the Olympic Adventure Trail, a rolling path
of forest road that caters better to moun-
tain bikes. With one of our crew (Marcy)
on a recumbent and me on a true road
bike, we chose the Spruce Railroad Trail.
We also made a key decision to not add
too many miles going around some tight
spots, but that meant taking U.S. High-
way 20, a 6-mile stretch with precariously
little-to-no-shoulder and some major
uphills and downhills before linking up
to U.S. Highway 101 and the western
boundary of the ODT.
We also made a decision to use a sup-
port crew to give us rides to/from our
respective homes at the beginning,
Day 1 end, Day 2 start and at the end, so
we wouldn’t need to pack tents and sleep-
ing bags and whatnot.
Then, the equipment. I gleaned as
much advice as I could on the right bike
to buy within my price range and wound
up with a beaut from Nate at Sequim
Bike Works, who transformed a 1980s-
era Cannondale racing bike into some-
thing even I could ride.
Several local bike shops helped me
stock up on the accessories — tubes,
pump, tire levers, lights, mirror, etc. —
that I’d need (and hopefully not need)
during out excursion.
Then, the training.
My meager athletic background is
predominantly in volleyball and road/trail
running, which helped a little in terms
of training. Most of my muscles adjusted
after a few rides, and I found a similarities
between running and cycling.
 What I found is that hardest part of
getting prepared was finding the time to
train and getting used to sitting on a less-
than-comfortable seat for hours at a time.
We’d all be on our seats for quite a while
over those two days.
DAY 1: PT TO PA
It all started with a tasty breakfast early
on a Wednesday at Port Townsend’s
Blue Moose Cafe at the Port Townsend
Boatyard.
After polishing off our meals, we cycled
off in a light sprinkling of rain along the
Larry Scott Memorial Trail section of the
ODT — my first ride here. And what a trail
it is: well-groomed dirt and packed gravel
paths under a canopy of evergreens that me-
ander to and fro, with few hills to speak of.
Immediately we were joined by a pack
of riders doing something like a guided,
six-day biking/camping trek around the
Peninsula with their next stop set for the
Seabeck area. We wished them well and
waved them on.
It wasn’t long until we came to Four
Corners Road and our Highway 20 gaunt-
let. With Marcy’s three-wheeler in the lead
and a brightly-colored Toman anchoring
the trio, we made our way up the first hill.
Just 30 seconds in, a massive freight truck
hurtled by, a harbinger of what lay ahead,
and pretty well woke up all of us.
The next 4 miles or so were brutal, with
cars and trucks whizzing past at 50-plus
miles per hour, a chilling spray covering
our sides and faces, uphill after uphill.
By the time we reached that stretch’s
apex, we were more than happy to race
downhill toward Highway 101. There, at
the interchange, we caught our breath and
gave thanks to providence for our safety.
From there, a short jaunt put us on
dedicated trail around Discovery Bay and
onto Gardiner roads. There, despite hav-
ing to ride with car traffic, it felt as if we
could breathe once more.
Crossing into Clallam County at the Di-
amond Point trailhead, we felt we were on
familiar grounds. One of my favorite parts
of the ODT, this section avoids the rush of
101 with a trek through farmland and the
Jamestown S’Klallam tribal campus.
A section I’d use for my marathon
training, it’s a long, slow somewhat uphill
path toward Sequim proper, highlighted
by the newer bridge at Sequim Bay State
Park and, as we pulled into town, the
resplendent Johnson Creek Trestle.
With my legs a little shell-shocked, I
managed to pull myself up to a table with
our crew at Black Bear Diner for some
sustenance. The grub and the warmth did
us good. All too soon, we were back on
the road.
Since we’d done this section — Sequim
892195481
to Port Angeles — in a training session
a few weeks prior, this section felt like a
blur. Now, with Toman in the lead calling
out car traffic at various ODT-roadway
intersections, we breezed through Sequim’s
streets, cruised on the decadent Railroad
Bridge and marveled at the greenery of Se-
quim’s farmlands near Robin Hill County
Park and Siebert Creek.
Steeling ourselves for what we knew
was to come, we pushed and pulled our
way up a couple of rather imposing hills,
including the dreaded Bagley Creek hill,
before rolling onto the Morse Creek
Trestle toward Port Angeles.
There, a light breeze and smooth go-
ings gave us a bit of respite before our fi-
nal pull into the Port Angeles waterfront.
As if on cue, an eagle plunged into the
Strait’s waters and pulled out his lunch as
the sun broke through the clouds.
Since we didn’t want to start Day 2
going uphill, we capped the first day with
a short, lurching ride up the aptly-named
West Hill Street to Crown Park, where
we called it a day.
DAY 2: PA TO LA PUSH
Our second day started much like the
first, with a light rain greeting us but beau-
tiful, smoothly-paved paths heading west
out of Port Angeles and toward the Pacific.
With little bike traffic on this early
morning weekday, we had plenty of time
to gab about the previous day’s events and
what lay ahead while enjoying the lush
greenery in the Dry Creek region.
All of that stopped, really, when we
came to the Elwha River Bridge. We had
to pause and gaze at the majesty of the
mighty Elwha.
The next section brought us along
Elwha River Road to a rather unpleas-
ant section along Highway 112; with a
LOGOTYPE
number of heavy trucks passing by, we
quick-as-we-could raced to the Joyce
General Store for a java-infused pick-me-
up and restroom break.
From there it was a short jaunt to
Joyce-Piedmont Road, a tortuous bit of
roadway that had us wondering whether
we truly wanted to ever see a bike or
roadway or each other ever again, before
it spilled rather quickly down to the
edges of Lake Crescent and the Spruce
Railroad Trail.
This particular trail I’ve written about
many times, and if you’ve never trekked
this part of the ODT, by all means go.
After a bit of broken rock, travel-
ers come upon the McPhee Tunnel, a
restored and covered pathway from the
Peninsula’s logging days.
We carefully followed each other’s
blinking lights through the tunnel and
headed west.

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Fall 2018 Living on the Peninsula 15
 The single-track trail along the majestic
Lake Crescent proved to be a challenge
for at least two of us. My rail-thin tires
didn’t do well on the broken gravel and
roots, but I managed not to plunge off the
path and a dozen feet into the lake, barely.
Marcy managed to get his recumbent for
perhaps a mile or so before striking a rock
and getting a flat — our first casualty.
That’s when he noticed one of his
tires with an odd yellow stripe down the
middle. As it turned out, Marcy’s right
front wheel was coming apart and while
he had replacement tubes, a bad tire
would spell doom. (He managed to finish
the day’s ride, but the tire barely did.)
Marcy managed a quick tube replace-
ment and after a short portage — the
recumbent was a bit too wide for some
of the Spruce Railroad Trail’s sections
— and a very long stretch of paved trail
paralleling Camp David Junior Road, we
were well on our way to the West End.
One of our favorite stretches of ODT
came after Lake Crescent, a smooth
patch of ODT through ferns and fir
we weren’t expecting. We wanted the
trail to feel like that for hours. But since
we wanted to be sure we didn’t have to
backtrack and there were only a couple
of trailheads before our next “refueling”
stop, we jumped onto Highway 101.
And that, cycling friends, is rather
unpleasant. We were back to freight trucks
and cars racing past, this time at upward of
70 miles per hour, with a 3-foot shoulder
(at best) and a light rain wetting us down.
Stu Marcy and Dave Toman work on flat
We pulled into the Hungry Bear and
No. 3. photo by Michael Dashiell quickly wolfed down lunch. Again, how-
ever, if felt all too soon that we were back
on the highway. The worst parts were the
bridges; with literally no shoulder, we’d have
to pause, then madly race our three bikes
across before diving back to the shoulder.
Soon after, I got my first flat — our
second casualty.
Fortunately I had some experts, so my
first flat change went exceedingly well.
The culprit: what looked like a staple on
steroids had latched onto my wheel.
We eventually pulled up to the turnoff
for La Push Road, just short of the
Vampireville, and paused to consider the
moment. Legs burning, a bit cold and
definitely ready to move on, we grabbed
quick selfies and began our final leg.
The mileage, about 120 of it, caught up
with me, and I struggled to traverse the
last few hills, counting off the miles to go
with each mile sign.
Toman caught his flat on this section
— casualty number three — so we each
had a chance to change tubes.
The last merciful mile-and-a-half or so
was a smooth, smooth ride down toward
the Pacific. None of us seemed to mind
the sprinkling of rain or the aching bones.
We were simply glad it was over.
Not long after, our support crew
(thanks Ione and Kate!) arrived, there to
share a meal, kick some First Beach sand
and eventually make our way home.
In all, it was two days with three flats,
130-plus miles and definitely some life-
long memories. 
Michael Dashiell is the editor of the
Sequim Gazette. Reach him at mdashiell@
sequimgazette.com.

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16 Living on the PeninsuLa FaLL 2018

 MEET the PSYCHICS
Women practice intuitive arts on the Peninsula
By Diane Urbani de la Paz
The three women could be sisters, though they’ve never met.
World travelers, spirit guides, psychics: They’re all of these.
Each speaks of communicating with the dead, and one doesn’t
mind calling herself a witch.
Hold on, now. Another trait held in common is their down-to-
earthiness.
“With me, you’re not going to hear a lot of fluff stuff. My
work is much more grounded — on the pavement,” said Kristine
Rose-Walsh, a spiritual life coach, intuitive and teacher based in
Sequim.
Sarah Nash, co-owner of the Red Dragonfly gallery in Port
Townsend, has what she calls a “cosmic cabana” there. She gives
psychic readings and, in the case of this reporter, a “psychic sip”
peppered with cuss words.
Nearby at Phoenix Rising, the Water Street shop and space for
intuitive practitioners, Lacey Dawn Jackson of Olympia comes in
for two straight days of readings each month.
The secret to her inner stamina?
“If I don’t bring my water, I have a rough day,” said Jackson, 55,
who sips her way through a gallon at a stretch.
These are people not so unlike the rest of us. Each has reached
a point in life where she is living her passion.
FaLL 2018 Living on the PeninsuLa 17

To give clients a visual focus, Sarah Nash uses the
Osho Zen tarot deck. photo by Diane Urbani de la Paz
MASSAGE, ANGELS,
ABUNDANCE
When Jackson walks into the room,
she flashes a smile, looks you in the eye
and sits down as if she’s known you since
girlhood. A massage therapist, Jackson
has long felt in touch with angels, spirits
and those who have passed beyond the
“I had gone through a tangible realm.
She has communicated with the
dead, she believes, since she was a child.
lot of dysfunctional Jackson was an intermediary between the
spirit and material worlds — a medium
— “before I could articulate what it was.”
relationships. For a long time, she fought her psychic
abilities. Then, in her early 40s, she began
studying angel therapy, mediumship and
When women come to the body-mind-spirit connection.
“I read the Bible on my own, and dif-
ferent spiritual texts,” she added.
me for different issues,
An additional type of training has
helped her on this path.
“I had gone through a lot of dysfunc-
I’ve been there.
tional relationships. When women come
to me for different issues, I’ve been there.
I totally relate.”
At first, she would simply sit with a
I totally relate.” client, tune in and give information. It
wasn’t until later that Jackson began us-
ing angel cards and oracle cards, working
— Lacey Dawn Jackson, on a psychic hotline and traveling to Port
Townsend and to Portland, Oregon, to
author, psychic, health coach give readings.
“She helps you communicate with your
deceased loved ones, animals and your
future self,” Jackson’s brochure noted.
While individual readings cost $80 per
hour or $40 per half-hour at Phoenix
Rising, she also offers a six-month
18 Living on the Peninsula Fall 2018
intuitive wellness program.
Topics covered range from chakras,
auras and grounding to astral travel, past
lives and “extreme self-care.”
A self-described “abundance babe,”
Jackson has written a memoir, “Journey
of the Groovy Goddess: Finding My
Authentic Self.” Her website, LaceyDawn
Jackson.com, shows other titles coming
this year, including “When My Boyfriend
Kicked Me Out of the Van: Relationship
Tips for Everyday Life.”
“I believe we’re all intuitive,” Jackson
said. For her, “it’s a matter of special-
izing.”
She’s the one who believes herself to be
a witch — “but you can take me places,
and I’m not going to get all weird on
you,” she said dryly.
Massage therapy, psychic communica-
tion, mediumship: all healing arts, Jack-
son said. Her desire is to help her clients
identify their passions: the bright energy
that helps one live a more satisfied life.
THE INNER RADIO
Kristine Rose-Walsh is an accoun-
tant. She spent many years working for
airlines and airports. At the same time,
she thirsted for knowledge of the natural
world, plant medicine, yoga and medita-
tion. In 1999, she and her husband left
her home state of California and came to
Sequim, where a new life opened up.
“I decided it was time to get into
everything I was into,” Rose-Walsh, 62,
recalled.
She continued her study of herbal
medicine, hands-on healing and spiritual-
ity — and summoned her courage for the
next step.
“I had to be brave to put a shingle out
to do my intuitive work,” she said.
But Rose-Walsh found her clientele
at Phoenix Rising; she’d give eight to
10 readings a day on summer weekends.
That continued for seven years. Then she
brought the business to her home office,
where she sees clients three to five times
per week. Most come from referrals while
a few find her online at IntegratedEnergy
Medicine.com.
Yes, skeptics abound. Rose-Walsh
doesn’t worry. She focuses on serving
her clients. Human intuition and psychic
ability, she says, are a bit like tuning into a
radio channel.
“I’m reading a frequency you can’t see.
I have a ‘dial’ inside of me where I can do
that. We all do; it takes practice,” to get a
clear signal.
 Counterclockwise from above: Kristine Rose-Walsh is an intuitive reader and
spiritual guide based in Sequim. Sarah Nash is co-owner of the Red Dragonfly, a
gallery in Port Townsend’s Undertown. Lacey Dawn Jackson comes to downtown
Port Townsend’s Phoenix Rising shop for two days of psychic readings each month.
photos by Diane Urbani de la Paz

Rose-Walsh has developed this abil- studied adolescent psychology at the

ity since childhood. Her mother, June
Rose, never treated intuition like it was
anything strange.
“My mom was a deep meditator,” since
the 1960s, she said. Rose-Walsh is as well;
Mom, now 91, has come to live with her.
Rose-Walsh’s fee for a reading starts at
$80 per hour. Many come to her in pain
from the loss of a loved one and want to
know if the one who has passed has found
peace.
“Most of the time, it’s pure love flow-
ing from the deceased person,” in the
wake of release from the mortal world.
As an intuitive reader, “I’m doing my
soul’s purpose … serving the light,” seek-
ing to relieve suffering.
‘NOT A FORTUNE TELLER’
When Sarah Nash was a girl, she lost
the hearing in her right ear. Surgery to
remove a tumor behind the ear nearly
caused her death.
She believes that in the years since,
she’s gained a transcendent, psychic sense.
At the Red Dragonfly and in her home
sanctuary, she gives readings, commu-
nicates with the dead and discusses the
White Light Express, an interfaith group
described on Nash’s site, Nahmaste.com.
“I am not a fortune teller,” said Nash,
53. Instead, she discusses the past and
present — and reminds her clients of
their power to shape the future. Clearly
that’s what Nash herself has done. She
Fall 2018 Living on the Peninsula
University of California at Los Angeles,
interned at Challenger Memorial Youth
Center in Lancaster, California, and then
became disillusioned with that work.
She later became a broker for Bank of
America, working in Cleveland.
Two summers ago, Nash and her
husband opened the Red Dragonfly in a
snug space inside the Undertown, a tun-
nel at the bottom of a staircase from Port
Townsend’s Taylor Street.
People drop in for psychic readings or
make appointments; 20-minute “psychic
sips” are $20, while a full session costs
$99, whether it lasts 90 minutes or three
hours.
Nash sees a lot of grief. Clients come
to her following a death, carrying, as she
says, “a 12-pound brick in the heart.”
Others are considering a major project
and wondering if it’s the right thing at the
right time. As a spiritual counselor with
a pragmatic streak, she urges her people
to set an intention, an affirmation of what
they want in life.
She listens. She offers practical advice,
“keeping it as real as possible,” while rid-
ing the energetic flow of the universe.
There’s nothing woo-woo about this
flow, Nash adds. We just haven’t figured
out how to explain it yet.
“My goal,” she said, “is to ease the
heart and soul of the person. It’s a
tremendous responsibility to sit with
someone who has their heart open.” 
19
 Fishing boats are seen in the 1950s near James Island
at La Push at sunset. Forks Forum archive photo

Legends, lore and true stories

from the forest and the sea
By Christi Baron Certain the shooting was no accident, they offered Sears a deal if he told the truth

W
and admitted his guilt. In doing so, it is speculated that he might have been taking the
ith hundreds of thousands of acres of uninhabited forestland, rugged
blame for a women who also could have been implicated in Sproul’s death.
coast and untamed ocean just off shore, the West End is a place where a
To possibly protect this woman, did Sears take the fall? Or was there other hanky-
person could easily disappear.
panky going on?
A man could come here to hide his identity; a man could be left on a lonely high-
It also was soon discovered that Allen Sears was possibly really named Ralph Carson.
way; fishermen could be lost to the sea; the unexplained light in the sky could remain
When Sears had deserted the Army, he took the name and identity of a friend who
unexplained; and unknown creatures could be lurking in the forest.
died in the war.
While some tales are regarded with skepticism and others as truth, one thing is for
His trial lasted four days, and Carson — alias Allen Sears — was found guilty by a
certain: the West End harbors many stories of poor, ill-fated souls.
jury of 10 men and two women and sentenced to death.
The 54-year-old Carson was the first Clallam County resident to be executed by the
DEATH BY IMPOSTER
state on Dec. 4, 1939.
In October 1937, Linwood Sproul owned a tourist camp at Mora near the mouth of
Was it really Allen Sears aka Ralph Carson who killed Sproul?
the Dickey River. The 58-year-old Sproul had recently hired a WWI veteran named
The truth has been lost to time.
Allen Sears to do some work for him.
It would end up being a fatal mistake.
MYSTERIOUS DEATH — OR MURDER?
Supposedly, Sears borrowed Sproul’s gun to kill a seal for cooking oil for another
The fog hung low shrouding U.S. Highway 101 on June 2, 1948.
neighbor.
As two travelers passed the Sappho Junction at around 1:30 a.m., they were sur-
On Friday, Oct. 4, when Sears returned with the gun and was cleaning it, Sears
prised to see an animal lying in the road.
claimed the loaded gun accidently went off, killing its owner, Sproul. Deciding to drive over it, they were even more surprised to see it was no animal but
Even though law enforcement resources at the time were limited, local authorities a man.
thought the story did not add up. They had discovered the body of 22-year-old Kelsey “Jack” C. Tanner, alias Jack Gale.
20 Living on the Peninsula Fall 2018
 The Sappho Junction as it appeared about the time someone
dumped Jack Tanner’s body very near here. Boyd Rupp photo

The sheriff and state patrol arrived at around 2 a.m., and although the body was still
warm, the victim had suffered so many injuries he was beyond help. An autopsy later
ruled out hit and run.
Whatever the motive for Tanner’s murder, it did not seem to be robbery.
The money from a check he had cashed in Forks earlier in the day was still on the
victim, and a 22-caliber pistol was tucked in his belt.
Did the answer to his demise lie in his lifestyle?
He had only been in the community a couple of weeks; had he made enemies?
The question remains: who or what killed Jack Tanner?

MISSING WHEN FISHING

The year 1952 was not a good year for fishermen. Not because the fishing was bad,
but because people were going fishing and never coming home again.
A man with the last name Dill had been a resident of the West End for a number of
years and had recently moved to Port Angeles.
On a Sunday morning in May 1952, Tyler Hobucket spotted Dill’s fishing boat, the
Terrine, off La Push. It was running in circles.
George R. Lewis, owner of the troller Destiny, had last spoken with Dill on Friday
via his ship radio.
At the time, Dill was north of Grays Harbor and he had told Lewis he was heading
for La Push. But now it was Sunday morning, and something was wrong.
Hobucket attempted to reach Dill on the radio and received no answer.
James Gorham of Forks also was in the area. He, too, tried to raise Dill on the radio
and received nothing.
Hobucket and Gorham finally pulled up along side the Terrine, and Hobucket stayed
with the vessel as Gorham went to La Push to get the Coast Guard to help.
When the Coast Guard boarded the Terrine, there was no sign of Dill.
A half-finished cup of still-warm coffee was sitting in the cabin. The boat was set on
auto pilot. The fish hatch was open, and salmon were in the hold. What unknown creatures may be lurking in the mossy
Had Dill fallen overboard? expanse of our Peninsula forestlands? Boyd Rupp photo
Gorham assisted the Coast Guard towing the Terrine to La Push. It was discovered
that a float was missing from the Terrine, and it was thought Dill had maybe made it to On June 3, 1952, Lewis made a call from his trolling boat, the Destiny, that he was
shore. Coast Guard planes and boats searched for days with no sign of Dill. taking on water, just off Westport.
Fall 2018 Living on the Peninsula 21
 Many other boats in the area, along
with the Grays Harbor Coast Guard,
heard Lewis’ radio messages.
When rescuers finally made it to the
Destiny, it was submerged to the tips of
the two trolling poles, and there was no
sign of Lewis.
The boat was towed to shore and then
taken to Port Angeles.
Examination of the boat showed that
it had most likely struck a submerged
object and then sank slowly.
The mostly empty gas tank helped
keep the boat from sinking completely.
Although Lewis was known to have
been wearing a life jacket, there was no
sign of him in the area.
Ironically, Lewis was the last person to
talk to Dill, by ship’s radio, before Dill
disappeared off his 37-foot trolling boat,
the Terrine, on May 17, 1952.
In July 1952, a major Coast Guard
air and sea search was launched for
a 34-year-old commercial fisherman
named Leslie Gossage. Joining in the
search were other commercial fishermen.
Gossage had left La Push on the morn-
ing of July 24 to go fishing off Destruc-
tion Island.
Two fishermen — J.E. O’Neil and
Floyd Thornton — had both reported
Linwood Cornelius Sproul was born in Bristol, Maine, in 1879. By 1930, seeing Gossage the day he left La Push,
he had made his way to the West End, living in Mora. Goss Family photo and several others had seen him near
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22 Living on the Peninsula Fall 2018
Destruction Island.
Heavy fog hindered the search by
plane, but even when they finally got in
the air, not a single sign of Gossage’s boat
was found that would lead to a conclu-
sion of what might have happened to the
fisherman.
The last person to talk to Gossage was
James Gorham, the man who helped
bring in Dill’s boat, the Terrine.
Gossage’s boat was a 32-foot troller.
In October 1952, Gossage’s family
gathered at the beach and had a memo-
rial ceremony.
FLYING SAUCERS OVER FORKS
In July 1952, Forks residents reported
seeing “flying saucers.”
Allan Dorst and his cousin Charles
Knowland spotted the objects at about
1 p.m.
The two called to Mrs. Henry Dorst to
come outside to view the objects.
They viewed the objects for about two
minutes.
All three described them as perfectly
round and traveling much faster than an
airplane.
When caught by the sun’s rays, they
shown silver and showed no vapor trails.
The objects, appearing quite high in
the sky, circled Forks and then headed
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 Heavy fog hindered the search by plane, but even when
they finally got in the air, not a single sign of Gossage’s
boat was found that would lead to a conclusion of what
might have happened to the fisherman.
The weekend of April 2, 1966, was the town of Forks’
second close encounter of the first kind.
At around 2 p.m. that Saturday, a young boy said he
spotted a UFO to the east of town.
At that time, law enforcement saw nothing. But on
Sunday evening, the town marshal, deputy sheriff and
several other adults watched the craft for about half an
hour.
Terry and Viola Hinchen also reported seeing some-
thing very unusual that weekend.
The Hinchens had been previously observing Sputnik,
the first artificial Earth satellite.
But this was most definitely not Sputnik.
This craft made some amazing turns, and the wit-
nesses said “it even glittered.”
Did the Forks locals see a real UFO? It’s difficult to
doubt with so many eye-witness accounts.
FOREST CREATURE
A few years ago, a Forks resident — who wishes to
remain anonymous — was living near Brinnon.
Having worked the late shift, it was about 3 a.m. when
she was driving home
“I came around one of the corners and sitting in my
lane of traffic was a bear-like creature with long spiky
grayish-colored hair,” she recalled.
“It was hunkered over and turned its face towards me
as I approached.
“It sort of looked like a bear but had a flatter face,
more like a koala bear or sloth, and its hair was long. It
also had short arms.
“I’m not sure if it was hurt; I didn’t see any blood. But
to me when it looked my way, it seemed to look sad, but
that may or may not have been.
“I had to swing wide and cross into the other lane to
avoid hitting it. The body style was chubby like a bear
but the face was different than any bear I have ever seen
around here. I also thought the color was odd unless some-
how it looked gray from my headlights shining on it.
“It freaked me out.”
Later when telling a co-worker about the strange
event, one of them commented that there have been
other weird creatures reported by Quilcene.
A truck driver once reported seeing a kangaroo. It
turned out to be a coyote that, because of and injury or
no front legs, had learned to hop on its hind feet.
These are just a few mysterious tales in this world, but
other bigger mysteries still remain, and no doubt many
more have yet to come. 
Christi Baron is the editor of the Forks Forum. Reach her at
cbaron@forksforum.com.

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Fall 2018 Living on the Peninsula 23

THE DAYTRIPPER
LAKE
QUINAULT
LODGE
Year-round resort a
remote, but posh,
weekend retreat
Story and photos by Laura Lofgren
There’s nothing better than exploring a new area close
enough to home; a place where you can go to relax and
get away from it all.
Lake Quinault Lodge is just the ticket for those
looking for a weekend getaway. While it might not be a
day-trip for most, per se, it can be your home away from
home if only for a few days.
Open all year, Lake Quinault Lodge is a little over an
hour away from Forks.
On your way there, make sure to stop at Ruby Beach
or any of the other beach access points on U.S. High-
way 101 to hear the roaring Pacific and see behemoth
seastacks.
Pass through charming Amanda Park before your
turn-off to the lodge.
During a recent stay in late July, blue hydrangeas
peppered the roadside, the lakeside and everywhere in
between, making for an amazing welcome to the lake
shore.
My husband and I were treated to a well-appointed
lake-view room in the main lodge with a king bed and
a full bathroom — just perfect for our first stop on our
two-week honeymoon down the coast of Washington,
Oregon and California.
Other room options include fireplace rooms, lakeside
rooms or boathouse rooms, all located outside of the
main lodge.
24 Living on the Peninsula Fall 2018
If you have ever been to Lake Crescent Lodge,
Quinault will feel quite similar.
This grand and rustic lodge built in 1926 welcomes
guests with warmth and hospitality.
In the main area, there is a large fireplace that is
crackling with heat even in the summer, as the evenings
cool quite a bit next to the lake.
With plenty of seating, here is a good place to sit and
relax before moving on to the day’s activities.
ACTIVITIES
Depending on your plans for your stay at Lake
Quinault — pure relaxation or outdoor recreation — the
staff has you covered.
The historic Roosevelt Dining Room offers exquisite
meal choices for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Just make
sure to check the eatery’s hours and make reservations,
especially for dinner. (A back-up is the nearby Salmon
House Restaurant, which we ended up at our first night,
not realizing reservations are a really good idea!)
In the fall of 1937, President Franklin D. Roosevelt
visited Lake Quinault Lodge during a fact-finding trip
and enjoyed lunch in the later-named Roosevelt Dining
Room.
Nine months later, Roosevelt signed a bill creating
Olympic National Park.
The dining room offers lovely views of the lake, along
with a wide array of birds to watch, including hum-
mingbirds that come right up to the window as you dine
The best view of the Lake
Quinault Lodge is looking up
at it from the large lawn.
thanks to well-placed feeders.
If you’re looking for a pre-dinner drink, there is a bar
just outside the Roosevelt Dining Room that offers well
drinks, wine and beer.
Take your beverage out to the deck, grab a seat and
watch kids and adults run across the expansive lawn
before settling on the calm, blue-gray lake.
For those really looking to relax, the lodge offers a
pool, sauna and game room, open from 10 a.m. to
10 p.m. daily.
Anyone up for a little more adventure can rent a
kayak, canoe or stand-up paddleboard (SUP) to take out
on the lake, weather permitting.
These rentals are available through September.
We tried SUPing for the first time on Lake Quinault.
While intimidating at first, with the tiniest of waves
splashing over the board, we found our balance on
the vessels and were able to cruise around the lake for
a good hour before calling it quits for dinner at the
Roosevelt.
Lake tours are available throughout the day for
anyone wishing to explore the water with a tour guide,
though they stop running early in September.
Chances are you’ll see bald eagles and osprey during
these boat rides, as well as river otters.
Tours offered are the Daybreak tour, the Afternoon
tour and the Sunset tour.
Adults are $30, kids are $20 and children 2 and
younger on a parent’s lap are free.
 All tours are weather permitting.
Hiking is one activity that isn’t restricted to anyone’s schedule but your own.
The forests around Lake Quinault Lodge offer hikes from short and leisurely to
long and enlivening.
There are more than 15 well-maintained trails to explore, each offering a different
perspective on the diverse ecosystem that is a temperate rain forest.
For an easy mid-morning hike, a walk along the Lakeshore Trail to Willaby Camp-
ground gives you amazing views of the lake, along with more hydrangeas and plenty of
other local plant life.
If you’re looking to extend your hike and get “Quinault in a nutshell,” take the Rain
Forest Nature Trail, which passes by Willaby Creek.
The .5-mile loop has interpretive signs along the route, so you can become knowl-
edgeable about local plants, wildlife and the ecosystem as a whole.
Once you’ve taken photos next to the moss-covered trees and gawked at the refresh-
ing waterfalls, make your way back to the lodge for a light lunch.
Weather permitting, stand-up
Other trails include a short but steep walk on the World’s Largest Western Red
Cedar Trail. With deep steps constructed in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation paddleboard rentals are available
Corps, this trail in winter can acquire stream-like characteristics, so be prepared! through September.
There also is a trail that leads to the World’s Largest Sitka Spruce, as determined by
the American Forestry Association. It also can be accessed from a gravel pull-off just The rest of the year, it has access to a vault toilet.
past the Rain Forest Resort Village, about a mile past the Lake Quinault Lodge. The lakefront Willaby Creek Campground has 21 sites and flush toilets, but it is
For anyone who wants a comprehensive tour of the Quinault Rainforest, the lodge closed in the winter.
offers a four-hour tour in a “tour coach.” A guide explains the history of the area, There are also plenty of vacation home rentals for those looking to stay longer than
including the Quinault Indian Nation, early expeditions that revealed the lake and the a day or two in the Quinault area.
flora and fauna native to the rain forest. The cost is $40 for adults, $25 for children and While visiting Lake Quinault, be sure to take a drive up past the lodge to see the
free for kids 2 and younger on a parent’s lap, though given the length of the tour, it wonderful farmlands of those who live nearby.
might not be suitable for infants and very young children. Who knows? Maybe you’ll fall in love with the incredibly friendly people, the fresh
air, the activities and the wildlife and want to make it a permanent vacation spot for
OTHER ACCOMMODATIONS years to come.
If staying at the lodge isn’t for you, the Lake Quinault area has several camping op- For more information about Lake Quinault Lodge or to make reservations, visit
tions, all located on the south side of the lake. olympicnationalparks.com. 
The North Forks Campground has nine sites, a pit toilet and no running water. Laura Lofgren is a special sections editor at Peninsula Daily News. Reach her at llofgren@
Graves Creek Campground has 30 sites, summer restrooms and no potable water. peninsuladailynews.com.

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Fall 2018 Living on the Peninsula 25

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FaLL 2018 Living on the PeninsuLa 27

A PINCH OF PENINSULA
DON’T BE
SHELLFISH!
Sequim’s Salty Girls say
clam chowder recipe
meant to be shared
Editor’s note: The following has been submitted by the owners of Salty Girls Sequim Seafood

“
Co., Lavon Gomes and Tracie Millett.

Well, to be honest, this wasn’t on our radar until the opportunity pre- A bowl of Salty Girls’ clam chowder is ready to be served to a
sented itself. We’ve been running Sunset Marine Resort — ­ a property
lucky customer. photo courtesy of Salty Girls Sequim Seafood Co.
on East Sequim
Bay with eight
vacation rentals Salty Girls Clam Chowder Stir to mix everything together.
— for 18 years Note: This recipe is meant for a 12-gallon Allow to simmer on medium high until
and also have been operat- kettle. To cut it down to a gallon, the recipe potatoes are soft enough to easily put
ing a kayak and boat rental can be reduced by a factor of 12. fork through.
for the last five years at John Much less chopping! In a separate bowl, mix the flour with
Wayne Marina. We wanted to Ingredients: half-and-half to make a rue. The consis-
do something different, so we 1-2 cups bacon grease tency should be relatively thin enough to
bought a charter boat to offer 4 pounds bacon barely pour.
scenic tours and trips out to the 4 cups butter Slowly add rue to kettle while stirring.
lighthouse (at the New Dunge- Salty Girls Sequim Seafood Co. owners and life 6 cups leeks Allow to simmer for a minute or so,
ness Light Station). 28 cups onions checking thickness. (For those who like
partners Lavon Gomes, left, and Tracie Millett.
This is how it all started. 12 cups celery thick chowder, more rue may be added.)
photo by Erin Hawkins 1 cup garlic Add remaining half-and-half, and stir.
In order to run the charter, we
needed to be captains. Once we passed all our exams, we went to the Peninsula Taproom 1 gallon broth (we use chicken) Allow enough time for chowder to heat
in Sequim to celebrate and at the time, the middle of the building was offered for rent. 1 gallon clam juice back up after adding the half-n-half.
We thought, “wouldn’t it be great if there were an oyster bar next door?” 16 quarts potatoes
We talked ourselves into and out of the idea for three weeks before signing the lease 2.5 tablespoons thyme It is best to make this chowder a day
in October 2017. Fortunately, the winter gave us time to design, draw, order, plan, 2.5 tablespoons white pepper prior to serving, as it allows time for the
design some more, refine and set up. 5 tablespoons salt thyme to mellow and the flavors to blend.
We went from originally planning a small space to what we have now: a dedicated 5 cups flour The key to this recipe is to be sure that
kitchen and full bar. 2 gallons half-and-half chopped potatoes are all the same size,
It changed the scope of what we originally planned, but we’re very happy with how 4 cans clams chopped onions are same size, chopped
it all turned out. Our final design includes a pass through window to the Taproom so 16 bay leaves leeks same size and so on. 
people can order from us while trying out the brews next door.
We’re fortunate to work closely with Jamestown Seafood right here in Sequim Bay. Rough directions:
They’ve been great and people have loved learning about and enjoying their oyster Cut bacon into small pieces and cook. Fun fact: The bacon is
selection. We also offer steamed clams from our bay. With so many oyster farms Remove bacon, leaving bacon grease
nearby — like Hama Hama and Taylor Shellfish — it’s great to be able to offer a local, in kettle. cooked for salads
fresh selection. Add butter to kettle and melt.
Add diced onion, leeks and celery to
and sandwiches, and
Our mission has been to stay as local as possible with everything we offer. We use
Pane d’Amore bread, cheese from Tillamook, Oregon, and Getting Cultured hot sauce kettle and cook for approximately 15 the grease is retained for
made right here in Sequim. minutes on medium high heat.
This locally made idea applies to our bar, as well, with beer from Washington and Add garlic and cook for an additional
use in the chowder.
Oregon breweries, kombucha from Iggy’s Alive & Cultured on Bainbridge Island, minute. With 12 gallons
wine from Wind Rose Cellars in Sequim and liquor from Bainbridge Island and The Add broth (with clam juice) to kettle.
Hardware Distillery in Hoodsport. We also carry Bedford Sodas from Port Angeles Add diced potatoes to kettle. cooking, it adds richness.
and DRY Soda from Seattle. Add thyme, white pepper and salt.
28 Living on the Peninsula Fall 2018

Spirit, spirits
& place By Rev. Pam Douglas-Smith
The Olympic Peninsula is a mag-
nificent primordial landscape enspirited
with ancient subtle energies and modern
vibrant forces.
From the soaring height of the old
growth forests to the historic architecture
of Victorian seaports to the beautiful
shorelines of sand
and rock, the spirit
of place resounds
with life seen and
unseen.
One need only
stroll along the
misty Pacific
beaches or hike into
the green depths
of the Hoh Rain
Forest where the
First Peoples trod to feel the depth and
breadth of how long humankind has
shared this sacred landscape amid an
infinite variety of nature’s expressions.
For most of us, a favorite childhood
memory involves camping out in the
depth of the woods — sitting around a
fireside, listening to the crackling of the
wood as it burns, seeing the sway of trees
above our heads as they move to an un-
seen breeze, wondering how close those
distant animal sounds might come during
the night, and sharing scary stories of
ghostly hauntings where each one seeks
to outspook the others.
How we love to wonder about what
unseen realms abide with us. How we
love the mystery of spirits.
William Shakespeare’s works are full of
references to hauntings and other strange
mysteries.
This summer, Key Cities Play-
ers’ Shakespeare in the Park at Port
Townsend’s Chetzemoka Park presented
“Hamlet.”
It contains a famous passage that re-
minds us to be open to possibilities:
There are more things in heaven and
earth, Horatio,  Rather than fear these experiences, we
Than are dreamt of in your philosophy.
THE LIVING END
This is a place of ancient dwellings
with generations of people living in its
embrace.
We have lived our lives here, built
homes, prospered and experienced loss
and watched the flow of our ever-evolv-
ing community.
Ghostly stories engage us all in the
unending flow of history as we seek to
understand our place in its midst.
This captures our imagination and is
what brought the Ghost Hunters televi-
sion show to Manresa Castle in Port
Townsend, one of the area’s most widely
known site of hauntings.
The results spooked even the report-
ers who filmed occurences they couldn’t
explain with outer logic. Hauntings
invite us to see beyond the outer forms of
buildings into the inner energies of life.
Isn’t life more interesting when new
possibilities of discovery abound?
The Olympic Peninsula, as the rest
of the world, is filled with local lore of richness and refreshed depths of under- are truer than we may have imagined:
ghostly sightings. standing to our lives.
The current world is always enfilled Walking the labyrinth in Chartres Our birth is but a sleep & a forgetting
with echoes of its prior inhabitants both Cathedral outside Paris, France, was ... The Soul that rises with us,
welcomed and unwelcomed. one of many moments in my life when our Life’s star, Hath had elsewhere its setting,
It can cause us to tremble and invoke those ancient echoes became living and cometh from afar;
the long-established Scottish prayer: companions. Not in entire forgetfulness,
It was suggested that we could enter it And not in utter nakedness,
From ghoulies and ghosties barefoot if we wanted, and so I chose that But trailing clouds of glory do we come ...
And long-leggedy beasties option, which I would highly recommend
And things that go bump in the night, to anyone going there. What if we not only trail clouds of
Good Lord, deliver us! As I took one step after another, I glory as we come, but also as we go?
walked the winding pathways moving Leaving behind unseen energies for
But what if we shifted our perceptions towards the center and then back out to others to sense, engage with and be
a bit and saw the invisible ones as com- the circumference amid this sacred space. inspired by.
panions rather than threats? I was aware of the other pilgrims walk- Go out into your world this day with
World civilizations and spiritual tradi- ing in prayer beside me, but as my spiri- eyes open, ears alert and soul open to
tions have long recognized the concepts tual centering deepened, I was moved to experience all of life’s wonder ... the visible
of angels, guardians and guides. tears by the profound awareness of the and the invisible ... the ancient and the new
They honor abiding ancestors and feet that had walked these very stones for ... the earth itself and the peoples who have
ghostly presences. centuries before me. walked it ... the sacredness of life in all of its
Perhaps like the fragrance of perfume Their prayers of hope and faith were amazing and eternal forms. 
that lingers in a room after the wearer has embedded into this sacred landscape, and Rev. Pam Douglas-Smith is the minister
left, we too leave traces of our soul pres- abided there still as they swirled around at the Unity Spiritual Enrichment Center
ence and disembodied remembrances. me as unseen companions of spirit. in Port Townsend who leads international
What if the words of the renown Eng- spiritual pilgrimages.
can honor and engage them to bring new lish romantic poet William Wordsworth Contact her at revpam@unitypt.org.
Fall 2018 Living on the Peninsula 29
 Call Our Landscape Designer For A Free Walk

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30 Living on the Peninsula Fall 2018

 Congratulations on a quality survey

We are very pleased to have passed our recent survey with results below the state average again this year. Our staff
has worked very hard to maintain our high standards and provide quality care to our residents.
This accomplishment reflects your outstanding commitment to providing quality care and services to our residents.
We thank you for your efforts and appreciate your hard work and dedication.
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892130804
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M.A., CCC-A, a Certified Clinical
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hearing aids and services to the Olympic Peninsula. The
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or
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in Trade-In
youyou
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*The Wells Fargo Home Projects credit card is issued by Wells Fargo Bank, N.A., an Equal Housing Lender.
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to apply until all qualifying purchases are paid in full. The monthly payment for this purchase will be the amount
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Fall 2018 Living on the Peninsula 31

 Your journey to beating cancer
just got shorter.
You don’t have to leave the North Olympic Peninsula to get exceptional cancer care.
Located in Sequim, Olympic Medical Cancer Center delivers world-class cancer care
close to home. Our affiliation with Seattle Cancer Care Alliance gives our patients full
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