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ABSTRACT
Natural protein fibers, such as wool, mohair, and siik, currentiy used in textiie production can be very costiy, Altliough
non-traditionai, a protein fiber, such as chiengora (dog hair), can prove to be a cheaper, environmentaiiy friendiy, and
suitabie substitute. However, very iittie information on the properties of these fibers can be found in the iiterature. Here,
the physicai and mechanical properties of hair combed from 18 dog breeds were measured and compared to those of
traditionai animai hair fibers. Unwashed dog hair was coiiected, bagged and iabeied by professionai pet groomers. Resuits
show that iength, iinear density, tenacity, strain, and elastic moduius of chiengora fibers are all simiiar to those of traditionai
protein fibers. Results also show that hairs from some breeds may be suitabie for short- or long-staple processing.
Key Terms: Chiengora, Natural Fibers, Non-traditional Fibers, Fiber Properties
warm, shed water well, and have good color and luster.^
' Physical Properties for Tradiriona] Animal Fibers'
Chiengora yarn has a "halo" of fuzz, much like mohair or
angora, and though it is not as elastic, it is warmer than wool."
Tenacity Linear Density Strain Modulus Length Although yarns are being produced from dog hair, little
Fiber
(g/denier) (denier) {%) (denier) (cm) has been reported on the properties of these fibers and their
Wool 1.59 12 0 42 9 ?4 1 10.IR suitability for commercial yarn production. The quality of the
Mohair 1.44 10.9 30.0 39.4 11,5 yarn produced varies with the type of hair used. The objec-
Cashmere 1 55 2.84 35 6 36 3 39 tives ofthe current research were
Camel hair 1.79 9.55 39.4 33.3 12,5 TABLE II. to determine the properties of dog
Dog Breeds Sampled hair atid to pinpoint which chien-
gora fibers could be considered for
Producers of textile goods are always in search of new and
Mo. of commercial production of yarns
innovative fibets for use in consumer products. Fibers that will Breed
Dogs and fabrics. If chiengora {100%
meet consumer needs, while heing environ men tally-ftiendly, American Eskimo Dog 3 or blended) can be commercially
are in demand. Commercial products containing wool, Austraiian Sfiepherd 2 converted to yarn and suitable
mohair, cashmere, and camelhair fibers have been produced Bichon Fuse 2
applications found for the yarns,
I'or himdreds of years. The properties ot these fibers that pro- Cocha-Poo 2
the authors suggest that fibers be
mote their successful conversion to yarns are given in Table I. German Shepherd 2
acquired by a system centered on
Another fiber that meets both criteria is "chiengora," or Golden Retriever 4
collecting fibers from pet grooming
dog hair. Ihe name comes from "chien"—the French word for Labrador Retriever L.
facilities.
dog, and "gora"-—from the word Angora; which has origins Lhasa Apso 2
in Greece, Turkey, and France; the traditional fiber that dog Maltese 2
scouring bath contained Keirlon NB-MFB as the cleaning Tensile Properties of Hair From All Dog Breeds
agent and sodium carbonate (soda ash) dissolved in water Dog Breed Tenacity (g/denier) Strain (%) Modulus (g/denisr)
to reduce the amount of foam. I h e temperature in the bath Clean Dirty Clean Dirty Clean Dirty
ranged trom 160F to 212F depending on the stage ofthe All Breeds 1.9 2.1 64,1 72.5 15.3 15.7
scouring bath. The sleeve containing the fibers was transferred American Eskimo Dog 1.7 2.2 fiOS 80.1 14,5 14,8
from the scouring bath to a dryer (Blue M Lab Oven) operat- Bichon Frise 1.5 1.9 57,8 68.4 13.7 13.4
ing at 60C (140F) for 24 hr, or until all moisture was removed Cocka-Poo 1 7 2 1 66.n 67 9 138 16 1
from the fibers. Samples were allowed to recondition for German Shepherd 2.0 2,3 66,2 76.2 15.1 15.7
1 hr under standard conditions of 2 l C (70F) and 6 5 % Lhasa Apso 1 8 2.1 63.0 74.2 15.0 154
relative humidity. Maltese 1.9 1.9 70.7 66.6 13.5 14.1
Length measurements (25 total) were taken from each Poodle 2.0 1 9 71 6 73.5 14,0 13,5
sample of clean and dirty hair according to ASTM 0 3 1 0 3 - Sheepdoe 1.8 2.1 65.0 68.2 14.3 15.4
01 .^ This data was used to determine an average fiber length StiiL'u 1.8 1 9 58 2 16.2 14,8
for each dog breed, and to evaluate the change in length after Springer Spaniel 2.1 2,7 72.5 96.4 16.0 14.3
scotiring. The linear densities (denier) of ten random fibers Yorkie 1.5 2.1 53.6 74 2 14.7 14,5
from each clean and dirty sample were determined using Golden Retriever 22 2.2 n.i 72.2 14.7 15.8
a Vibromat and ASTM D1 577-01 .^' The fibers were then Sctinauzer 1.8 2.3 563 59.9 16.5 21.5
mounted on cards in preparation tor tensile testing. Pom^anian 1.7 2.1 62.6 68.3 14.4 17.2
Labrador Retriever 17 2.3 57 7 701 151 174
Tensile tests were performed on the same fibers used to
Peklngrae 2.2 2.2 68.7 69.1 16,4 16.5
measure linear density. Fiber tensile tests were run according to
Wesiie 2.D 2.2 fi4fi 76 4 152 139
ASTM 03822-01,°' using a Sintech tester with a gauge length
Australian Shepherd 2.3 2.5 60,0 96.6 22.7 13.9
Tbere was a 5.2% increase in linear density after wasbing, Pomeranian" 0,005 0,91 0.264 0,034 —
implying tbat the fibers were made coarser. Possible explana- Labradot Retriever 0.0001 0.6 0.029 0 06 <0,0001
Pekingese" 0,823 0,57 0,904 0.942 <0,0001
tions for tbis are swelling in tbe medulla, or core, during the
Weslie' 0 068 0.16 0.004 0124 <0,0001
scouring batb due to tbe presence of soda ash; or moisture
Auslraiian Shepherd'' 0,201 0.22 <0.0001 0-001 —
retention after washing. Cotton and wool react in this manner
•"More than Iwo properties significantly affected by laundering.
to soda ash scouring. However, moisture retention would be
"Oniy length significanliy affected by laundenng,
expected to increase strain, not create an 11.5% decrease. •^Length and one other property significantly affected by iaundering.
be considered. Tbe quaiity of tbe cbiengora, tbe affect on ofthe traditional animal fibers, but the breed had the lowest
air quaiity. and overall employee working conditions must linear density, 23.10 denier, much courser than wooi. Finer
be considered in deciding wbetber to process tbe bair in its fibers are more easiiy converted into yarn because they require
clean or dirty state. Thougb there was a significant difference iess twist. The coarseness of dog fibers couid be a cbaiienge to
between clean and dirty fibers, comparisons with traditionai commerciaiiy converting tbem into yarns.
hair fiiiers were based on ciean cbiengora oniy.
Lengtii
Strength Fiber Icngtb is a very important factor when choosing the
The overall tenacity for chiengora was 1.886 g/denier processing and production method tor yarns. Fibers tbat are
(Table IV). This was 5.0% greater than that ofthe strongest too short, less tban 2.54 cm, are very difficult to convert into
traditional animai bair fiber, camelhair (Table 1). The dog yarns; bowever, fibers tbat are too iong also present conversion
breeds having hair witb the highest tenacity were Austraiian cballenges. Short fibers are used mainly for short staple fiber
Shepherd, Pei^ingese, Golden Retriever, Springer Spaniel, and production and nonwoven production. Table Hi iists the fiber
Poodle. The tenacities ranged from 2.342 g/denier (Australian lengtbs of all dog breeds tested. The average fiber iengtb tor
Shepherd) to 2.016 g/denier (Poodle). Ofthe i8 breeds chiengora was 5.76 cm, 56.0% lower than that of camelhair,
tested, 10 (56.0%) bad fiber tenacities that exceeded tbat of the longest traditional fiber at 12.5 cm. Tbe breeds with tbe
camelhair. Ihe average fiber tenacity for the top 10 dog breeds longest fiber lengths were Yorkie, Springer Spaniel, Maitese,
was 2.04 g/denier, 14.0% stronger than camelhair. Sixteen of German Sbepherd, and Lbasa Apso. These fiber lengths ranged
tbe 18 breeds tested (or 89.0%) had bair that was stronger from 9.4 cm (Yorlcie) to 7.1 cm (Lhasa Apso). Ali dog breeds
tban casbmere (1.55 g/denier) or wool (1.59 g/denier). Ail had hair ionger than casbmere (3.9 cm). Despite cashmere's
dog breeds bad hair stronger than mohair (1.44 g/denier). Of relatively sbort fiber length of 3.9 cm, it is commerciaiiy pro-
the breeds tested. Tbe Yorkie breed bad bair witb the iowest cessed with no major problems. Today's variety of processing
tenacity (1.5 g/denier). methods means that fiber length is less of an issue tban it was
severai years ago.
Diameter and Density Tbe fibers from some dog breeds wouid fit well witb sbort
Table ill lists the fiber diameter (microns) and linear density staple fiber production methods wbere tbe typical processing
(denier) of fibers from ail dog breeds included in tbis study. It length ranges from 2.5 to 5.1 cm. The Poodle, Schnauzer,
is important to note that as witb otber animal hair fibers, the Labrador Retriever, Pekingese, and Westie breeds had an
variation in fiber size is bigb botb within breeds and between average length of 4.0 cm, whicb wouid process weii as sbort
breeds. It is aiso known tbat animal hair varies with its fleece staple fibers. Yorkie, tbe breed with tbe iongest fibers (9.4 cm)
location. Only the Schnauzer breed was determined to have should be processabie as easily as any ofthe traditional
hair similar to super-fine Merino wooi. Tbe Maitese, Poodie animal fibers.
and Sheepdog breeds were determined to bave bair similar Sbort fibers may also be used in nonwoven fabric produc-
to fine Merino wool. Tiie hair of tbe Laiirador Retriever and tion, where suitable fibers range from less tban 1 mm to as
WestHigkand White Terrier (Westie) breeds are similar to much as 15.2 cm. Ali dog fibers wouid process weii into a
coarse wools. The Lhasa Apso, Sbih Tzu, Golden Retriever, nonwoven product.
and Australian Sbepherd breeds had bair similar in diameter In textiie processing, it is generaliy desirable to have fibers
range to carpet or mixed wools. The remaining eigbt dogs had with a bigb aspect ratio (i.e., iiigh length to width ratio).
bair similar to medium grade wool witb American Esicimo Fibers with a high aspect ratio tend to be more flexible and
Dog, Gocka-Poo, German Shepherd and i'ekingese breeds thus bend more easily. Dog fibers, on tbe average, were shorter
baving hair that would be considered to be medium-fine. and mucb coarser tban wooi. This lower aspect ratio may pres-
in general, a larger fiber size indicates higher tenacity. This ent a probiem during conversion to yarn, but these fibers are
is true for mohair and camelbair, as well as about 50.0% of currently being handspun into yarns and made into fabrics.
tbe dog breeds tested. 'Ilie average linear density for chiengora
as reported in Table iii was 29.66 denier, whicb was 59.5% Strain
greater tban that of wool, 'lliis meant that dog hairs were The average strain for cbiengora was 64.149% (Table IV).
much coarser than traditional animal bair fibers. This was 20.3% greater than that of wool, tbe traditional fiber
Of tbe 18 breeds tested, ali bad hair with linear densi- having the highest percent strain (42.9%). The bair from ali
ties tbat exceeded that ot wool. Tlic five breeds having tbe of tbe 18 breeds tested bad strain vaiues tbat exceeded tbat
lowest linear density were the Maitese, Poodle, Shih Tzu, of wool. Therefore, dog hair fibers eiongate mucb more tban
Pomeranian, and Westie. The average iinear density for these traditional animal fibers before breaking. The breeds witb
five breeds was 24.81 denier. Ibese fibers were 52.0% coarser bair having tbe bigbest percent strain were Goiden Retriever,
tban wool, tbe coarsest traditional animal hair fiber. However, Springer Spaniel, Poodie, Maitese, and Pekingese, ranging
tbcse breeds also had strengths that were equal to, or better from 77.186% (Goiden Retriever) to 68.708% (Pekingese).
tban, traditional bair fibers used in textile products. IVie These high extension vaiues as well as high tenacity values
Westie had a tenacity of 1.97 g/denier, higher than that of any show tbat dog fibers can absorb a large amount of energy.
which is important wheti considering abrasion resistance, fiber. However, based on diameter, there is evidence that dog
crease recovery, and resilience.' Strain values also become hairs can be classed using the fine, medium, coarse, and carpet
important during the processing of fibers inco yarns, 'lhe categories used to classify wool fibers. The high linear density
conversion puts stress on each fiber; but those that AK more of chiengora fibers, whicb leads to a low aspect ratio, could
extensible will process with less difficulty. pose a problem during the processing stages. To overcome this,
the dog fibers could be processed as short staple yarns.
Modulus The average modulus for the dog fibers, 15.3 g/denier, was
Modulus describes tbe force needed to deform a fiber. Values considerably lower than the modulus of the traditional animal
for chiengora fibers are listed in Table IV. Compared to tradi- fibers. The importance of this factor is situational because
tional animal fibers, chiengora fibers have much lower moduli, some circumstances demand a high modulus, whereas, in
meaning that they deform at a quicker rate than do wool, other circumstances, a low modulus is acceptable. Finally, the
mohair, cashmere, and camelhair fibers. The average chiengora average percent strain of the dog fibers was 61.1%, which
modulus was 15.315 g/denier. The modulus of wool, the was 20.3% greater than that of wool. This factor is important
lowest among the traditional fibers, was 36.5% greater than in establishing that dog fibers are more extensible than the
that of the average dog hair. traditionally-used animal fibers.
The breeds with the highest moduli were Australian Based on the properties discussed, it would be reasonable to
Shepherd, Schnauzer, Pekingese, Shih Tzu, and Springer consider dog fiber for commercial conversion into staple yarns.
Spaniel. These ranged from 22.716 g/denier (Australian With strength, length, percent strain, and modulus, as a basis,
Shepherd) to 16.009 g/denier (Springer Spaniel). Of the 18 dog fibers would perform as well as traditionally-used animal
dog breeds tested, none had moduli within 10.0% of the fibers, and possibly better in certain instances. The American
modulus of mohair, cashmere, or camelhair. Wool's modulus, Eskimo Dog, Poodle, Sheepdog, Shih Tzu, Schnauzer,
24.10 g/denier, was very similar to the Australian Shepherd Labrador Retriever, Pekingese, and Westie breeds should be
breed's modulus of 22.716 g/denier. The Maltese breed had considered as candidates for short staple processing. Hair from
the lowest modulus value, 13.462 g/denier, of the dog breeds the Bichon Frise, Cocka-Poo, Lhasa Apso, Pomeranian, and
tested. Ihis data showed that dog fibers are not as stiff as the Australian Shepherd dog breeds would be appropriate for long
traditional animal fibers, therefore, they have a lower resis- staple processing. Future research will attempt to produce
tance to deformation. staple yarns from blends of chiengora fibers as grouped above.
The desired fiber modtilus is dependent upon the intended Yarn properties will be studied for strength, elongation, even-
end-use for the fiber or yarn. In some instances, a fiber with ness, and abrasion resistance. Yarns will then be fabricated and
a low modulus is acceptable; cotton fibers, with an average fabric properties assessed for strength, elongation, abrasion
modulus cii about 4.0 g/denier, are commonly used in apparel resistance, air permeability, and moisture absorption.
applications.^ Conversely, for a protective garment, such as a
bulletproof vest, a fiber with a high modulus is unquestionably References
preferred. With an average modulus of 15.0 g/denier, the dog L Kaswcll, Ernest. Textile Fibers, Yarns, and Fabrics., Reirihold
fiber should perform as well as cotton during processing and Publishing Corporation, New York, N.Y.. U.S.A., 1953, pp3-30.
prove to be adequate for certain applications. 2. Croiius, Kendall, and Anne Montgomery, Knitting With Dog
Hair, Sr. Martins Griffin, New York, N.Y., U.S.A., 1994,
Conclusions pp]-34.
3. Merry Spinster Presents Chiengora Chic, http:llwivw.mdnpd.
The main objective of this research was to determine the comlpdldefault.htm, accessed January 2002.
feasibility of using dog hair in conventional textile products. 4. www.freeriet.edmonton.ab.ca/wcavers/dog.html, accessed
The properties of tenacity, linear density, modulus, and per- January 2002.
cent strain of dog hair were studied. 5. Annual Book of ASTM Standards.yoh. 7.01-02, Philadelphia,
Results showed that dog hair, with a tenacity of 1.89 Pa.,U.S.A.,2001.
g/denier, was at least 5% stronger than traditionally-used 6. Statistical Analysis Sofiware, SAS Institute Inc., Box 8000, Cary,
animal fibers. Ihus, the strength ot chiengora fibers shouid N.C, 27512, U.S.A.
present no problem in the commercial conversion of fibers to 7. Trocman, E. R., Jlye Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile
Fibres, 5''' edition, Charles Griffin & Co. Ltd, London, England,
yarns. The length of chiengora ranged from 3.9 cm to 9.4 cm.
1975, pp92-94.
Tiiis indicated that all chiengora fibers had lengths suitable
8. Koo, Hyiin-Jin, PhD Thesis, North Carolina State University,
for either shon or long staple production methods. However,
Raleigh, N.C. U.S.A., 1993.
the mean length of 5-8 cm was 45.4% shorter than that of the
traditional animal fibers.
Author's Address
The average fiber diameter of chiengora fibers was 33.71
Suzanne Greer Holmes, Technical Associate, AATCC,
microns and the average linear density was 29.7 denier. It
One Davis Drive, PO Box 12215, Research Triangle Park,
was determined that the linear density oi the dog hairs tested
N C 27709-2215, USA; telephone -HI 919 549 3537;
was 59.5% higher than wool, the coarsest traditional animal
fax -HI 919 569 8933; e-mail holmes@aatcc.org.