A Beginner’s Guide to Suppressors:

Part 1
Posted March 24, 2016 in Companies, NFA / Suppressors / Class III, Pistols, Rifles, Shooting
Accessories, Shotguns by Pete with 32 Comments
Tags: 41F, AAC, Class III, Dead Air Armament, DeltaP, Gemtech, Hansohn Brothers, Liberty Suppressors, MAC
Tactical, nfa, NFA Review Channel, Quiet Riot Firearms, rugged suppressors, Sig
Sauer, Silencerco, Silencers, SilencerShop, supperssor, YHM

We are living in a Golden Age of suppressors. The market is flush with caliber ratings, high-tech
materials, new mounting options and a host of accessories. If you have ever thought about
owning a suppressor, or even if you haven’t, let’s walk you through your first purchase from start
to finish. Believe me, you want one. Ok, more than one.

There is a lot of information to cover, so we are going to break this whole process down into
three easy parts:

Part 1
• Silencer Laws
• Types of Suppressors
• Which One is Right For You?
• Research and Reviews
Part 2
• Purchasing
• ATF Forms
• What To Do While you Wait
•

Part 3
• Picking up from your dealer
• Ammo, Shooting And Cleaning
• Storage
• Final Thoughts

Before we begin, what actually is a silencer?

Straight from the Bureau of Alcohol Tobacco and Firearms (BATFE) website:

The term “Firearm Silencer” or “Firearm Muffler” means any device for silencing,
muffling, or diminishing the report of a portable firearm, including any combination
of parts, designed or redesigned, and intended for the use in assembling or fabricating
a firearm silencer or firearm muffler, any part intended only for use in such assembly
or fabrication.
Clear as mud, right? In layman’s terms, a suppressor is a device mounted on the muzzle end of a
gun’s barrel, or any part of that device, that is intended to make that gun quieter. The term,
suppressor, silencer, muffler or “can” are all interchangeable.

And lastly before we get into the laws surrounding ownership, commercial suppressors are sold
through Federal Firearm Licensees (FFL) that have paid their yearly Special Occupational Tax
(SOT). Commonly referred to as “dealers”, “class III dealers” or “SOTs” (pronounced S-O-T),
these companies sell and/or transfer silencers they receive from manufacturers or other dealers.
More on the BATFE transfer process coming up in Part 2.

Silencer Laws
Here are the basic requirements to purchase a suppressor from a dealer:

• Be at least 21 years old

• Be a U.S. resident
• Be legally able to purchase and own a firearm
• Pay a $200 BATFE transfer tax (per item)
• Live in a state that allows civilian ownership of suppressors.
Let’s talk about that last point: If you don’t already know your state’s suppressor laws, your first
stop should be the American Suppressor Association (ASA) or the National Rifle Association
Institute for Legal Action (NRA-ILA). Even if your state is on the ‘silencers are legal’ list, it is
your responsibility to also check your local laws for any additional restrictions.

Credit: The American Suppressor Association

Didn’t make the list? Keep reading; Suppressor laws are evolving for the better every year. Last
year both Minnesota and Vermont legalized suppressor ownership and at the time of this
writing Iowa (Congrats Iowa!) and even Massachusetts, with all it’s challenging gun laws, are
both advancing bills to legalize individual ownership of suppressors. There is also a push in
Congress to remove silencers from the National Firearms Act (NFA) Registry – The Hearing
Protection Act.

Final legal issue: The Chief Law Enforcement Officer (CLEO) sign off requirement. For 82
years, individuals who wanted to purchase NFA items like suppressors were required to get an
approval from their local CLEO. In some locations, CLEOs would refuse to sign NFA transfer
paperwork effectively banning ownership of suppressors and other registered items. However,
with the adoption of a controversial BATFE rule change called 41F (formerly 41P), starting in
early July of 2016, individuals will only be required to notify their CLEO of an NFA transfer –
no approval required. Individuals (and now entities like corporations and trusts) still have to
submit fingerprints and photographs and undergo a background check to have their BATFE
forms approved. Don’t worry, we will simplify all of the paperwork in Part 2.

Types of Suppressors

A Ruger MKII with a Pac-Lite threaded barrel and a SilencerCo Warlock 2. Gemtech makes suppressor-specific ammunition.

Great, you’re legal! It’s time to start the search for your new silencer.
First, let’s break suppressors down into five basic categories: Rimfire, Pistol, Rifle, Multi-Use
and Shotgun.

Rimfire Suppressors ($200 to $450) – These smaller lighter cans are optimized for rimfire
cartridges (although some can handle small rifle cartridges like the 5.7×28). This is the easiest
way to get close to that ‘Hollywood quiet’ suppressed gun. Using the right ammunition, the
loudest sound you’ll hear when using a rimfire silencer will be the bullet hitting the target.
Because rimfire ammunition runs dirty, modern day rimfire cans are built to be taken apart for
cleaning. Most rimfire suppressors attach directly to the barrel with a thread pattern of 1/2 x 28.
Examples: SilencerCo Spectre 22; Dead Air Mask.

Pistol Suppressors ($400 to $800) – Specifically engineered to handle the recoil operation of
semiautomatic handguns, these suppressors use a spring operated Neilsen Device (or booster) to
help cycle the action. Some of these silencers can handle subsonic rifle rounds and have the
option of a fixed barrel mount rather than a booster for mounting to the barrel of a rifle.
Important note: Never use a booster with a rimfire can.
Examples: Rugged Obsidian 45; Griffin Revolution

Rifle Suppressors ($500 to $1500) – Designed to handle the high pressures and temperatures of
rifle rounds, these caliber specific cans come in direct thread and quick detach versions. Most of
these suppressors are sealed, meaning that they can’t be taken apart for cleaning. It’s a good
thing that rifle silencers rarely, if ever, need to be cleaned; the high energy from rifle rounds
blasts out most of the carbon buildup.
Examples: Sig SRD762Ti-QD; AAC M4-2000

Multi-Use ($600 to $900) – These suppressors combine certain traits from each of the rimfire,
pistol and rifle categories to provide the user with a ‘Swiss Army Knife’ of do-it-all silencers that
can be moved between multiple hosts and configurations. This also can mean that these silencers
may not excel in any one category, so choose wisely.
Examples: Liberty Mystic X; Griffin Optimus; SilencerCo Hybrid

Shotgun Suppressors ($1,200) – This is the most niche category on the list. There are few
options out there but a shotgun suppressor is probably not a good recommendation first time
buyers.
Example: SilencerCo Salvo12.
Each of the above categories can have their own subsets. For example rifle suppressors can be
made to take a harsh firing schedule for combat use or be extremely lightweight for a bolt action
hunting gun. And since this is a beginners guide, we will leave submachine gun, machine gun
and integral (built into the firearm) suppressors for another time.

Which One is Right For You?

The key to picking the right silencer is to manage your expectations. Firearm suppressors reduce
(not eliminate) noise, pressure and flash. “Forget what you see [and hear] in movies,” says Chris
Hansohn from Hansohn Brothers, an online and retail suppressor dealer based in Virginia. And
aside from rimfire and some subsonic ammunition, even when shooting suppressed, you will still
need to wear some form of hearing protection. If you are looking for that awe-inspiring silencer
experience, a rimfire can is probably your best bet, followed closely by a pistol or rifle can using
subsonic ammunition. “Start with a rimfire silencer and a .22LR rifle as a host for the best dollar-
to-smile ratio,” continued Chris from Hansohn Brothers. But, if you are dead set on suppressing
your .338 Lapua first, just realize that it will still be loud.
“With a myriad of models, options, and probably most important – price ranges, most buyers can
get overwhelmed,” says Mark Cook, owner of MAC Tactical an FFL/SOT dealer in New
Hampshire. “My best advice to customers is to identify what your intended use is and what
caliber(s) and hosts you want to suppress.”
When considering which guns to suppress, start with the one you shoot the most. Defensive
pistol? Backyard plinker? Rifle hunter? Precision shooter? Common sense dictates that shooters
should make their favorite guns the most pleasant to shoot. “You can effectively suppress 90% of
all firearms with just 3 silencers. A magnum rated .30 caliber, a .45 pistol, and a magnum rated
.22 silencer,” says Jake Hinton of Quiet Riot Firearms, an online and retail suppressor dealer
based in Georgia. “Pick which of those three you shoot the most and start there.” Also, as one
reader points out, because of the gap between the cylinder and the barrel, revolvers make terrible
hosts, except for a few exceptions.

Research and Reviews

One of the hardest parts about buying a silencer is that it is difficult, if not impossible, to try
them out before making a decision. And even if you do find a dealer that has demonstration cans
that they allow customers to use (at their range), chances are that they will not allow you to test
them on your hosts. This means that prospective buyers are left primarily with the Internet and
word of mouth for silencer research, which can be difficult to interpret. Especially since
consumer-grade audio and visual equipment cannot accurately capture the sound reduction felt
by the shooter. [Be careful] listening to people’s opinions and taking that as the gospel on a
specific silencer,” says Jeremy Mallette of Silencer Shop, an online suppressor distributor
headquartered in Texas. “Even at Silencer Shop we have our favorites and if you ask five sales
guys you’ll get five different answers.”

“It makes a dealer’s job a lot easier to suggest models if you have clearly
defined goals,” – Chris Hansohn, Hansohn Brothers.
Many manufacturers, distributors and dealers will use professional audio equipment to measure
decibel reductions. While this is a great way to compare the performance of different
suppressors, it’s not the only variable to consider. “Don’t get to wrapped up in chasing the lowest
decibel numbers. These days the manufacturers know that a third party [decibel] test is inevitable
and they have nothing to hide. What you need to concentrate on is the tone,” says Adam
Johnson, owner of the NFA Review Channel that conducts testing and evaluation of suppressors.
“Tone will make or break your shooting experience.”
One of the best ways to interpret a suppressors tone is to find a friend who owns and shoots with
silencers. And, if you don’t know a suppressor owner, internet discussion
boards like AR15.com have active suppressor forums where the latest products and technologies
are discussed. If you are interested in a specific brand, chances are there is someone out there
that either loves or hates it. Just remember that it’s the internet; take everything you see, hear and
read with a grain of salt. What works for one user, might not necessarily be the best choice for
you.

Reviews on almost any of host and suppressor combination are on YouTube.

Obviously you want a suppressor that will reduce sound and muzzle blast, but there are other
characteristics that are equally important, but much easier to quantify. Length, weight, materials,
mounting system, barrel length, caliber restrictions and the manufacturers customer service
history should be a part of your decision process. Again, it all comes back to what host you are
trying to suppress and for what purpose. For example, selecting a silencer for a short barreled
rifle (SBR) can be a completely different process from picking a silencer for a bolt action
precision gun. “It makes a dealer’s job a lot easier to suggest models if you have clearly defined
goals,” says Chris from Hansohn Brothers.

When you start looking at models, make sure you take into account your host. For rifles, barrel
length is going to be a top concern since most manufacturers will list a minimum barrel length
required for a specific caliber. And you are going to want to decide on a mounting option: it is
usually a choice between direct thread and quick disconnect. Typically, direct thread silencers
are left on one host most of the time while quick disconnect (QD) options allow the shooter to
have multiple mounts (a brake or flash hider) on different guns and swap the suppressor between
them. Some pistol hosts have unique thread patterns or don’t offer threaded barrel options.
Another reason to do thorough research before you buy.

A SilencerCo Octane 45HD mounted under the hand guard of a QuarterCircle10 pistol caliber carbine, Length and width
restrictions should be considered when pairing your host with a potential suppressor.

It is important to note, the market for used silencers is almost nonexistent, so consider every
suppressor you buy a lifetime commitment. With that in mind, you wouldn’t buy a TV without
pouring over specifications and features and making an informed decision, right? Doing similar
research when buying your cans will save you headaches and regret. “Buy the best silencer you
can afford, even if that means putting your purchase off until you can save more [money],” says
Jake from Quiet Riot. “There is nothing worse than having an old ineffective silencer collecting
dust in the back of your safe.”

Finally, start planning out how much you want to spend. Your budget should include the $200
transfer tax and possibly mounts, boosters and barrel threading.
With that, I’m going to wrap up Part 1 of this series with a little homework. Take the below list
of silencer manufactures and start researching some options for your host(s). Take a look at the
NFA Review Channel and other reviewers on YouTube and around the web. By the time Part 2
rolls around, you should be ready to buy. Remember your objectives and pick the right
suppressor for you, not what the internet or your local gun shop decides to sell you.

Top suppressor manufacturers (in alphabetical order):

Advanced Armament Corporation – http://www.advanced-armament.com

Allen Engineering – http://aesuppressors.com/suppressors/

AWC Silencers – https://awcsilencers.com/

Bowers Group – http://www.bowersgroup.com

Dead Air Armament – http://deadairsilencers.com

Delta P Design – https://www.deltapdesign.com/suppressors.html

Gemtech – http://www.gem-tech.com

Griffin Armament – http://www.griffinarmament.com

Innovative Arms – http://www.innovativearms.com

LaRue Tactical – http://www.larue.com/larue-tranquilo-sound-suppressor-m308

Liberty Suppressors – http://libertycans.net

Mack Brothers – http://macbros.com/

OSS Suppressors – http://osssuppressors.com/

Ruger – http://ruger.com/micros/silent-sr/index.html
Rugged Suppressors – https://ruggedsuppressors.com

Sig Sauer – http://sigsilencers.com

SilencerCo – https://silencerco.com
Surefire – http://www.surefire.com/tactical-equipment/sound-suppressors.html

Tactical Solutions – http://www.tacticalsol.com/suppressors/

Thompson Machine – http://www.thompsonmachine.net/

Thunder Beast Arms – https://thunderbeastarms.com

Yankee Hill Machine – http://yhm.net

Writer’s note: I’m sure I left your favorite manufacturer off the list. If so, feel free to remind me
in the comments section.

I’ll leave you with this bit of information from Jeremy at Silencer Shop:

I have yet to have a customer that has just bought one silencer.
Quick Review:
1. Check your laws.
2. Decide on which host(s) to suppress.
3. Read/Watch/Discuss reviews online.
4. Research manufacturers.
5. Decide which suppressor is best for you and your goals.
A Beginner’s Guide to Suppressors:
Part 2
Posted March 29, 2016 in AR-15, Companies, Guns & Gear, NFA / Suppressors / Class
III, Pistols, Rifles by Pete with 15 Comments
Tags: Dead Air Armament, eforms, Form 4, Griffin Armament, Hansohn Brothers, nfa, NFA Review Channel, NFA
Tax, quiet riot, rugged suppressors, silencer, Silencer Shop, Silencerco, suppressor

So, you have always wanted a suppressor but figured that they were too expensive or the paperwork
wasn’t worth your time. Or, you never considered owning a silencer until your idiot brother-in-law
spun that monster brake/compensator on his AR at the range last week. Fear not, we are going to
hold your hand through the process of researching, buying and owning suppressors. It really is pretty
simple.

We left off at the end of Part 1 with a little research project: to review the offerings by the main
suppressor manufacturers and find a silencer that fits most of your criteria. I’ll say ‘most’ since
nothing is going to be perfect and you will end up making concessions no matter what you finally
decide to buy. (I mentioned that you would end up owning more than one can anyway, right?).
Hopefully you looked at all the specifications and mounting options to pick two or three solid
candidates for your first silencer.
Part 1
• Silencer Laws
• Types of Suppressors
• Which One is Right For You?
• Research and Reviews

Part 2
• Purchasing
• ATF Forms
• What To Do While you Wait
•

Part 3
• Picking up from your dealer
• Ammo, Shooting And Cleaning
• Storage
• Final Thoughts

Purchasing

When buying a new gun, you are left with two purchase options: your local gun store and online
retailers. Strangely enough, buying a suppressor isn’t much different. If you remember from last
time, Federal Firearms License (FFL) holders can opt to pay a yearly Special Occupational Tax
(SOT – pronounced “S-O-T”) that allows them to sell National Firearms Act (NFA) controlled items.
Chances are, your regular gun shop is also an SOT and is all ready to sell you a silencer.

If this is the case, the process of buying your new can might have just gotten easier. Roll down to the
shop and ask what suppressor manufacturers they sell, what they have in stock and at what price.
Hopefully all three of these criteria are met. Unfortunately, some gun shops, like any other business,
may try to sell you something you don’t want or need. Remember, you researched you silencer
choice thoroughly; don’t settle for something that won’t fit your needs. There’s a good chance your
shop won’t have your model or even brand in stock, which means they will have to place an order for
you.

Photo courtesy of TwoSierra

Because the movement of NFA items is tightly regulated, silencers transfer between manufacturers
and dealers (or dealers to other dealers) by a pre-approval process using Form 5320.3 (also known
as a Form 3) from the Bureau of Alcohol Tobacco Firearms and Explosives (BATFE). If your dealer
needs to order more suppressors, they will call up a manufacturer, distributor or another dealer and
place an order. That company then needs to file a Form 3 for every NFA item that they are
transferring to your dealer. And it has to be approved by the BATFE before they can ship anything
out.

The Form 3 process is painfully archaic because dealers (and eventually you) can be forced to wait
up to six weeks just to receive their BATFE approval to send and receive silencers. Form 3’s were
being approved electronically for a brief time through the use of the BATFE’s EForm system,
however technical issues caused by an influx of submissions forced some of the available services
back to a paper format. Long story short, if your local dealer has to order your suppressor from
another dealer, you will have to wait at least an extra month before you can start filling out your
transfer paperwork. If you want to see what a Form 3 actually looks like, click here, but
remember only dealers will see this paperwork.

Photo courtesy of TwoSierra

So with the added wait, why would you not just buy something in stock? Sometimes your dealer has
nothing you want in stock or the price is much higher than can be find on online retailers. I always
lean to support my local dealer whenever possible, however sometimes it’s hard to pass up a good
deal online. And many of the FFL/SOTs don’t have a storefront (sometimes referred to as ‘kitchen
table FFLs’) and will not hold much of an inventory anyway. Much of these home-based FFL’s
revenue comes from transfer fees. More on these added costs below.

After looking around the shops in your area and either finding nothing in stock or the prices at (or
above) MSRP, you’ve decided to buy your first suppressor online. This sounds like it’s going to be a
real pain in the neck. Actually, the process is almost as easy as buying a non-NFA firearm online.
Once you find the suppressor you want, put in your billing and payment information, indicate your
local FFL/SOT where the silencer will be transferred to and click submit. From here, the online
retailer files that Form 3 with the BATFE and, once approved, ships your silencer to your local
dealer. Except for the wait, the whole process is about as easy as buying your spouse an
anniversary present on Amazon (make sure to get them something nice). One added benefit from
buying online: depending on your state, you may save yourself any additional sales taxes.
Back to transfer fees: make sure to pick a local dealer and discuss any transfer fees and other
information before you order online. Dealers can charge anywhere from $50 to $150 for the transfer
of your suppressor, and if you are in the upper part of this range, it could negate any cost savings
you made by buying online. Also, some dealers will discount transfer fees for multiple NFA items –
another reason to buy multiple cans at once (as if you needed another reason). Besides, you
wouldn’t buy a handgun online without first discussing the terms with your local dealer; it’s just
common sense.
The last bit of advice on buying a silencer either locally or online is don’t wait. The longer you delay
your purchase, the longer you wait to get your BATFE forms into the system and the longer it is
going to take to get your toys.

Photo courtesy of TwoSierra

Online Suppressor Retailers (In Alphabetical Order)

** I’ve also included the state of each company. If you are in the same state as one of these dealers,
it may save you the additional wait of a Form 3 approval. **

Brownells – http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/muzzle-devices/suppressors/index.htm – IA
Bud’s Gun Shop – www.budsgunshop.com – KY
Capitol Armory – http://www.capitolarmory.com/ – TX
Dakota Silencer – http://www.dakotasilencer.com/ – MN, MT, NE, ND, SD, WY
DSG Arms – https://dsgarms.com/suppressors – TX
Gamaliel Shooting Supply – https://www.gamaliel.com/ – KY
Grab A Gun – http://grabagun.com/class-3.html – TX
Hansohn Brothers – http://hansohnbrothers.com/ – VA
Quiet Riot Firearms – http://www.quietriotfirearms.com/ – GA
Rainier Arms – https://www.rainierarms.com/complete-firearms-class-iii/nfa/silencers – WA
Silencer Loft – http://www.silencerloft.com – AL
SilencerHQ – http://www.silencerhq.com – NE
Silencer Shop – http://www.silencershop.com/ – TX
SilencersOnline – http://www.silencersonline.com/ – FL
Tar Heel State Firearms – http://www.tarheelstatefirearms.com/ – SC, NC
Obviously this isn’t a comprehensive list of every online dealer, so shop around. If you think I’ve
forgotten a reputable dealer, make a note in the comments section.

Photo courtesy of TwoSierra

ATF Forms

So you just bought your first suppressor. Congratulations! But you are really only about halfway
through the process.
Your first decision will be whether you are going to be transferring your new suppressor to an
individual (yourself) or an entity (a trust or corporation with you as a trustee or officer). Here’s a brief
breakdown of each option:

Individual – Historically the most common type of transfer (until recently), individual transfers
require photographs and fingerprints of the transferee, a Chief Law Enforcement Officer (CLEO)
sign-off and a background check conducted by the BATFE. Pros: There’s no trust or corporation
paperwork to set up prior to transferring your silencer. Cons: It is only legal for you to possess your
suppressor (you can’t loan it out to anyone).*

Entity – Transferring a silencer into a trust or corporation has the advantage of allowing other
trustees/officers to use them without you being there because the entity owns them, not you
individually. Also, under the current rules, transfers of NFA items to entities do not require
fingerprints, photographs or CLEO sign-off, Be careful; while basic trust documents are easy to
create and use, more complicated entity transfers can cause legal issues if not done correctly. Many
retailers offer trust setup services for a fee, but as with any legal documentation, seeking competent
legal council is always recommended.*

* If you remember from Part 1, the process for NFA transfers is set to change in July. Both
individuals and entities will be required to submit photographs and fingerprints. Where as the CLEO
requirement will become a only notification and not an authorization as it is now. Once the new rules
are clarified and the paperwork is finalized, we will make sure to post an update to the process.

Although the bulk of the transfer paperwork will be handled by your dealer, it’s important to know an
understand what you are filling out and signing. I’ve added screen shots of the first three pages of
the (current) Form 4, but it is your responsibility to read the additional three instruction pages and
check for updated forms. You are investing your money and your time into this suppressor – make
sure it’s done right.

“Go to an experienced dealer that handles all the paperwork for you – they should have also done a
fair amount of Form 4s,” says Jeremy Mallette from Silencer Shop, an online silencer retailer and
distributor based in Texas. “If an FFL won’t handle the paperwork for you then find another
place. There are a lot of local FFLs that take good care of their customers, so seek them out.”
It is especially important to make sure the information on your Form 4 is complete and correct. Any
errors could cause your transfer application to go in to problem status. More on checking the status
of your submission and possible problems below. Also you will need two original and complete
copies of your Form 4.
BATFE Form 4 (5320.4) – Page 1

This page is pretty straight forward. Especially for your first purchase, your dealer should explain
each of these fields and most good dealers will actually complete the first page of the Form 4. I’ve
highlighted the important fields that your should check for accuracy with a blue box. Everything listed
on the form needs to match your personal information or your entity’s information and your silencer’s
information exactly or you risk delays in the transfer process.

1. 2a. You (or your entity) are the transferee. This is for your name (or entity name) and
address.
2. 4a. The company name and address of your silencer.
3. 4b. Silencer.
4. 4c. Caliber or Gauge.
5. 4d. Model name/number.
6. 4f. Length of silencer.
7. 4g. Serial Number.
8. 10. Your dealer’s original signature in ink.
9. 11. Your dealer’s printed name and title.
10. 12. Date.

BATFE Form 4 (5320.4) – Page 2

Entities: Skip this entire page. (Reminder: In July of 2016 there will be a new form where entities will
also need to complete the background questions as well as include fingerprints and photographs
with their application.)
Individuals:
1. 13. Top line: Fill in your complete name. The rest is completed by your CLEO. Make
sure all boxes are filled out completely before you leave their office.
2. 14. (As per the instructions, not required for silencers.)
3. 15a. through 15j. Answer truthfully. These questions should be familiar if you have ever
bought a firearm from a dealer and undergone a National Instant Criminal Background
(NICS) check.
4. 16. Attach a passport photo here. There are plenty of Apps that will take passport-sized
photos. Make sure to print them on photo paper. Or get your photos professionally
taken at a store like CVS or Rite-Aid.
5. 17. through 20. Citizenship and Immigration questions. Complete only if you answered
‘no’ to question 15i. – ‘Are you a United States citizen?’
6. CERTIFICATION: Sign and date
A quick word about the CLEO certification: Be professional and polite and it’s always a good idea to
call ahead and make an appointment before you head down to the station for your signature. It also
doesn’t hurt to ask your dealer if they know which CLEO for your area is NFA friendly. You’ll be less
likely to waste time if you know going in whether or not a particular agency head will sign your forms.
Don’t forget to get both copies of your Form 4 signed.

Again, in July of 2016 this process changes from a CLEO sign-off to only a CLEO notification.
You will also need to find a place to get your fingerprints taken – most police departments will take
your fingerprints on the blue-lined FD-258 “applicant” cards for a small fee. When you call to setup
your CLEO sign-off appointment, ask about getting printed and to make sure they have the blue
fingerprint cards available. With the coming changes, many dealers are preparing to take fingerprints
in-house which will save you additional time and hassle.
BATFE Form 4 (5320.4) – Page 3

1. 21. Payment: Make a $200 payment to the ‘BATFE – National Firearms Act Branch’.
Proofread and sign everything before you get ready to ship off your application packet. Make a copy
of your forms or at least take a picture – it’s always great idea to have all the information from your
Form 4 on file, just in case. If for some reason you forget, don’t worry, your dealer also has copies of
your forms.

Collate all your documents into two copies:

• Two (2) original copies of your completed Form 4.

• Two (2) completed fingerprint cards – Individual Only
• Two (2) passport photos – Individual Only
• Two (2) copies of you Trust or incorporation documents – Entity only*
• Payment (either check, money order, cashiers check or credit/debit card information)
* In reality, I believe only one copy of your entity paperwork is required, but I like to submit two
complete packets, just in case.
Mail your for forms (at a minimum using USPS* Priority with tracking) to:

National Firearms Act Branch, Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives, P.O. Box
530298, Atlanta, GA 30353-0298

* UPS and FedEx won’t ship to PO Boxes.

So, with all these changes to the process coming, why not just wait until July to buy your first
suppressor? For one thing, the wait for the application process only gets longer every day you don’t
submit your forms. “At this time the wait for Form 4’s to get approved is about six months,” says
Jeremy from Silencer Shop. “And we could soon be looking at 12 months. I always say the best time
to buy is always ‘right now’.”

What To Do While You Wait

You can call the BATFE NFA Branch (304-616-4500) to check the status of your Form 4 – just have
your entity name (or just your name) and your silencer’s serial number handy. The most information
they will be able to give you is that your paperwork ‘In Process’ or in ‘Problem Status’. If it is the
latter, don’t worry, your dealer will handle most the issues in the unlikely event your Form 4 goes into
this dreaded category. The most likely culprit is a spelling or punctuation issue (yes, the BATFE is
that exact). Even if your form has a problem, it will only slow your approval by a week or two – not a
big deal in the grand scheme of things.
All that being said, I have never called the BATFE to have them check on my submission, and I
suggest you don’t either. If you must, call once, about a month after you send your forms to make
sure everything was received properly. Then just wait. Calling once a week doesn’t help you or
anyone else get a faster approval.

One alternative is to use NFATracker.com. This site is a kind of ‘crowd-sourcing’ for NFA applicants
– each user inputs there milestone dates in the BATFE process and NFATracker estimates your
timeline based on everyone else in the country. It’s not perfect (the tracker relies solely on unofficial
user inputted data) but it is a useful tool that i have used with success for every submission.

Photo courtesy of TwoSierra

Barrel Threading –

Hopefully you spent enough time researching your hosts to determine your barrel threading options.
For rifles like AR-15s, most barrels are already threaded with a standard thread pitch that is
‘concentric to the bore’ (meaning the threads are exact enough to mount a silencer without worrying
about damage). Other guns like AK-47 patterned rifles may have threaded barrels, but the threads
may not be suitable for mounting a suppressor. There are tools you can use to check to see if the
threads are concentric, but when in doubt, have a solid gunsmith confirm your barrel’s threading.
Speaking of gunsmiths, if you need to have your barrel threaded, take a look at options
online. ADCO Firearms and Class 3 Machining are two respected names in the business, but there
are plenty of others out there. There’s a chance that you have a good local gunsmith that can thread
your barrel without you having to ship it out of state.
In the end, sometimes it’s easier and cheaper to buy a new barrel with high-quality threads. This is
especially true with pistol hosts. The market for threaded pistol barrels is hot: match grade options
from KKM Precision is at the upper end of the quality (and pricing) scale, whereas the offerings
from Lone Wolf Distributors are slightly more affordable. SilencerCo, Gemtech and Surefire are all
silencer manufacturers that also sell their own line of threaded barrels. Just make sure the barrel is
right for your gun and has the correct thread pitch.

Muzzle Devices –

Most quick disconnect (QD) rifle cans will include either a flash hider or brake that is specific to
your mounting system. Personally, I detest brakes and when given the choice, I will pick a flash
hider every time. But, if you plan on always shooting that particular rifle suppressed, there is
evidence (albeit non-scientific) that using a brake can reduce wear on your can’s internals.

Photo courtesy of TwoSierra

In any case, you are probably going to want a few more muzzle devices (*cough* flash
hider *cough*) so you can shoot your otter rifles suppressed. Now is a good time to shop around.
Boosters, Pistons or Nielsen Devices –
Flashing back to Part 1 in our series, if you bought a pistol silencer, you are most likely going to
need a booster (aka piston) for mounting on to your gun. The booster uses inertia from a spring to
assist the recoil operation of a pistol and ensures proper cycling. Most pistol silencers include one
piston, but you may want to buy others for additional hosts. Hopefully you planned ahead: whereas a
.45ACP silencer will probably work on a 9mm host, the reverse is definitely not true.

The biggest consideration is matching the thread pitch on your barrel with the thread pitch in your
piston – be diligent when shopping to make sure you get the right setup.

Let’s wrap up Part 2 with another homework project: Thread, mount and booster your host(s). Also,
repeat Part 1 and start looking for your second can. You might as well start now.

I always say the best time to buy is always ‘right now’ – Jeremy Mallette,
Silencer Shop
Quick Review
• Decide if you are buying locally or online.
• Buy your silencer.
• Complete and proofread your Form 4.
• Send your forms, paperwork and payment in to the BATFE.
• Thread barrels and buy muzzle devices.

A Beginner’s Guide to Suppressors:

Part 3
Posted April 4, 2016 in Companies, Guns & Gear, NFA / Suppressors / Class III, Other Gear &
Gadgets, Pistols, Rifles, Shooting Accessories, Shotguns by Pete with 25 Comments
Tags: AAC, beginner, blowback, Bowers Group, Cole-Tac, DSG Arms, Gas Block, Gemtech, Griffin
Armament, Hansohn Brothers, innovative arms, Liberty Suppressors, MAC
Tactical, MicroMOA, ModernRifleman.net, nfa, Silencer Shop, Silencerco, Silencers, slr, Suppress
everything, Suppressors, vdmsr.com

Photo courtesy of www.vdmsr.com

In part one and part two of the beginner’s series we walked you through the process of researching,
buying and finally transferring a new suppressor from a dealer. We even gave you assignments
along the way, like getting barrels threaded, buying a booster or picking out muzzle devices. So, let’s
fast forward four to six (six to nine?) months when your paperwork comes back approved and start
talking about the fun stuff: suppressor ownership and shooting suppressed weapons. Chances are
that once you experience the world of suppressors, you won’t be able to go back to your old (loud)
ways.
Thank you for your comments and questions so far; I’ve updated the previous two parts wiith user
information and experiences and I’ll address some additional comments here in Part 3.

Part 1
• Silencer Laws
• Types of Suppressors
• Which One is Right For You?
• Research and Reviews

Part 2
• Purchasing
• ATF Forms
• What To Do While you Wait

Part 3
• Picking Up From Your Dealer
• Ammo, Shooting And Cleaning
• Storage
• Final Thoughts
Courtesy: ModernRifleman.net

Picking Up From Your Dealer

More than likely you just got a call or text from your local NFA dealer (or sensed a disturbance in the
Force) that your Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms (BATFE) Form 4 transfer paper work was
approved and you can pick up your new suppressor. As all your spouse/roommate/dog hears are the
sound of tires screeching out of the driveway, there are only a couple of things you need to
remember on delivery day: Bring your drivers license and be prepared to fill out a Form 4473 –
Firearms Transfer Record.

Now, I know what your are saying, it just took six months of patience waiting for the BATFE to review
and approve all that paperwork your filled out after you bought your silencer and now you have to fill
out even more forms? Yes, but the good part is that you don’t have to wait around for your dealer to
call in the National Instant Criminal Background Check System (NICS) check like you would with
other firearms; once you fill out the form, answer the questions and sign, you are good to go. But the
whole process does seem like a duplication of efforts.

Additionally, if you have not already done so, you will pay your dealer their transfer fee for storing
and transferring your silencer. And, with any firearm (yes, silencers are considered firearms) make
sure you have a good way to store and lock your new purchase in your car if you aren’t going
directly home or to the range to shoot. After all of this effort and time you have invested, it would be
heartbreaking to loose your new suppressor to a smash and grab.

We’ll talk about keeping copies of your approved Form 4s in the storage section below.
 Courtesy: vdmsr.com

Takeaway: On pickup day, bring your drivers license and be prepared to fill out a
Form 4473.

Mounting Your New Suppressor

Writer’s Note: It should go without saying, but you must follow all of the safety rules
when handling firearms.

By now, all the hosts you plan on suppressing should be threaded, possibly with mounts, or if you
bought a centerfire pistol suppressor, you should have picked up a new barrel and if it is not already
included, a booster assembly. Even though you might be a master gunsmith or have installed a
hundred flash hiders, make sure you read all the directions that came with your mount assembly. For
example, the crush washers that come with standard flash hiders should not be used when installing
your suppressor mount. These washers can crush unevenly, tilting the mount and silencer,
increasing the probability of baffle strikes – damage that occurs when a bullet makes contact with
your silencer’s internals. Brake mounts (and some flash hider mounts) will come with peel washers
or shims to properly “time” the muzzle devicein the correct orientation. So I’ll repeat, read the
instructions that came with your mount and follow them exactly. When in doubt, contact the
manufacturer for clarification.

Concentric To The Bore

Last time we talked a little about barrel threading. An essential part of suppressor ownership is
making sure that your host and suppressor are in proper sync with each other. One piece of this
process is checking that the silencer threads precisely with proper bore alignment: ensuring that the
suppressor is ‘concentric to the bore’ can be achieved in several ways.

The first, and easiest, is a visual inspection – remove the barrel, upper and/or bolt so you can sight
down the breach/chamber and through the barrel. Now mount your silencer. Hold the whole
assembly up to the light or a white background and look down the barrel. If your suppressor is
properly installed, you should only see a crisp circle of light or white background. If not, you may see
a fuzzy or hazy sliver of your suppressor’s internals on one side of the white exit hole.

You can also achieve the same results by doing this process in reverse: In a dark room, place a
bright flashlight up against the chamber, shining through the barrel and out the silencer. Now move
the muzzle of the silencer near a wall or the floor. The light coming out should be a perfectly sharp
circle. Again, if part of the circle is fuzzy, you may have an alignment issue.

Lastly, you can use a length of drill rod that is just slightly smaller than the bore diameter of your
barrel. Slide the drill rod down the breach, if it touches the baffles of your suppressor, there’s a
problem somewhere in your system.

In the unlikely event that you have alignment issues, clean the threads (of the barrel and the
suppressor) and the barrel shoulder and try it again. The same thing goes for mounts or boosters. If
you are still getting inconsistent results, contact the manufacturer of you suppressor or your new
barrel; otherwise you may need to see a gunsmith to check your barrel’s threading.

Mounting
There are so many different quick-detach (QD) mounting solutions on the market, it would be
unrealistic to go over them all here in this starter’s guide. My only advice is to read your owner’s
manual and practice using your new setup.

For direct thread suppressors, most indexing occurs at the shoulder (the shelf before the threads) of
the barrel. This means when you tighten your silencer on to your barrel, it should seat evenly and
completely on the shoulder itself. Still other suppressors are designed to index on the crown of the
barrel, meaning even when it’s fully installed, you may still have a gap between the shoulder and the
adapter of your silencer. Other companies, like SilencerCo’s rimfire line, are designed to use a
proprietary thread pattern for an o-ring seal engagement. I can’t stress this enough: familiarize
yourself with the instructions that came with your suppressor.

Fast forwarding to shooting suppressed – as you shoot, you’ll want to check that your setup remains
tight and properly mounted. This is especially true for pistols since the recoil action and rifling twist
direction can loosen your booster assembly. Some users prefer left-handed (reverse) threads for
barrels with a right-handed rifling twist so that the rotational force of the bullet tightens the booster
assembly against the barrel’s threads with each shot. Failure to keep your suppressor tight on your
barrel’s threads can cause damage to it’s internals (baffles) or end cap.

It all sounds like a lot of information, but after your first range session it will become second nature to
ensure proper mounting of your new silencer and to keep it that way as you shoot.

Takeaway: Mount your suppressor properly and check for tightness intermittently
when shooting.

Courtesy: vdmsr.com

Ammunition

Your new suppressor is excellent at suppressing the noise made by hot expanding gases exiting the
muzzle. Instead of all that unburnt powder and gas exploding after leaving your brake, flash hider or
bare muzzle, the silencer traps and contains them, suppressing the resulting noise that otherwise
would have made it to your ears.

Subsonic vs Supersonic
What can’t be suppressed, however, is the sonic crack that is created if and when your projectile
goes supersonic, a speed around 1100 feet per second (fps). Supersonic velocities can fluctuate
depending on atmospheric temperatures, altitude and humidity, so the 1100fps figure is not a hard-
and-fast value. Also, depending on your environment – indoors vs outdoors, under cover or in an
open field, etc – the sound of a bullet breaking the sound barrier can still be loud and damaging to
the human ear. Which is why you still should wear hearing protection, even
when shooting suppressed. We’ll talk more about hearing protectiona little later.
Point being, even with a suppressed weapon, you still have to deal with the noise of a bullet’s
supersonic flight. If you bought a suppressor for a high-powered (high-velocity) rifle, your choices
for ammunition are pretty straightforward. Buy and shoot what is accurate for your gun because
every shot will still be (relatively) loud due to both the expanding gases and the sonic crack created
when the bullet goes supersonic.

If you bought a rimfire, pistol or subsonic rifle caliber (300BLK) suppressor, you have
some ammunition choices to make. Most likely, you want to shoot as quietly as possible which
means you will be buying, or reloading, subsonic rounds that don’t create a sonic crack. However,
just buying subsonic rounds isn’t the only variable you need to consider. Since barrel length effects
the muzzle velocity of your bullet, you are going to have to do a bit of research on your host in
combination with the ammo you plan to use.

One website I’ve found very useful in calculating bullet velocity is Ballistics By The Inch (BBTI). Here
you can find common cartridge/bullet/loading combinations at different barrel lengths. I highly
suggest starting with BBTI when starting to look at ammo choices.

Many ammunition makers will print muzzle velocity markings on the boxes or on their websites, but
just be aware that these are calculated with the Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’
Institute (SAAMI)specifications – if your barrel is longer than the specs for that caliber, your muzzle
velocity will be higher and it might push your bullet to supersonic speeds, creating that loud crack we
talked about. And don’t forget about the environmental variables: rounds that are subsonic in July
may not be subsonic in January since the speed of sound is lower in cold weather.
For rimfire ammunition, any barrels under four inches in length will keep ammunition marked
‘standard velocity’ subsonic, so there is no real need to buy subsonic loads. Anything above four
inches and your best best will be to shoot subsonic ammunition.

Relax, none of this is as complicated as it sounds. Most likely you have a standard setup that will
keep subsonic ammunition, well, subsonic. And if your suppressor sounds louder than you think it
should, your first check should be your ammunition – your bullets are probably going supersonic.
Lastly, don’t forget to double check your silencer manufacturer’s specifications – some suppressors
are only rated for the subsonic versions of ammunition (like 300BLK) and not full powered/high
pressure loads.

Takeaway: For high powered rifle hosts, your choice of ammunition is pretty
easy. For hosts designed for maximum noise reduction, barrel length
and ammunition choices should focus on keeping bullets subsonic.

Shooting
So, it’s finally time to pull some triggers.

Blowback Mitigation
As I mentioned above, suppressors only reduce the sound, gas and blast exiting from the muzzle of
a discharged firearm. For semiautomatic guns, gasses can also escape from other places like a gas
port and the ejection port as the cycling of the action begins. Although this isn’t a deal breaker for
suppressing these hosts, it’s a fact of life when shooting suppressed semiautomatic weapons. And a
condition known as “blowback” can sometimes exacerbate the problem as the silencer pushes all
that gas that would have exited the muzzle, back down the barrel and out the gas port and/or action.
Courtesy: ModernRifleman.net

Heavy blowback can be annoying at its best and near nauseating at its worst. Not only does the
extra gas create unwanted noise but it also brings gunpowder residue into the action and towards
the shooter. For lefties, the blowback situation on rifles like ARs can be unbearable since the
shooters face is right up against the ejection port.

As if that wasn’t enough, suppressing a direct impingement (DI) gas system like in standard AR-15s,
extra gas can create reliability problems because the cyclic rate can increase up to 30% more than
normal depending on both the host and suppressor. This can cause failures to feed, stove-piping or
the inability to lock the bolt back on an empty magazine.

Luckily, there are several easy fixes for an over-gassed AR. Some of them involve using heavier
buffers and stiffer buffer springs, which, although they can be effective, is akin to treating the
symptoms and not curing the disease. These heavier/stiffer components work to slow the action by
placing greater force on the bolt carrier group, keeping the action closed longer, forcing gases back
down the barrel rather than out the ejection port.

A much better solution is to restrict the gas before it gets to the action by replacing your
standard gas block with an adjustable gas block like the MicroMOA Govnah, the SLR Sentry 6 or
one of several other options from a host of quality manufacturers. Other gas regulation solutions
include an adjustable bolt carrier from Gemtech and an adjustable gas upper receiver from
Innovative Arms. Controlling the gas in a DI system allows you to fine tune your gun to run efficiently
either suppressed or unsuppressed.

Because every barrel manufacturer (and gas port size) is different, my personal suggestion is to
shoot your suppressed AR before making any changes to your components. After a few magazines,
you will have a better idea on what, if anything, needs to be changed. Important note – most of these
gas issues only apply to the 5.56 platform. Most 300BLK loads are optimized to be run suppressed
without worrying about additional blowback.

Takeaway: Gases escaping from your gun’s action can be a source of loud noise and gas blowback.
For semiauto guns like 5.56 AR-15’s, consider regulating your gas system with devices like
an adjustable gas block.

“Running Wet”
Some rimfire and pistol suppressors are designed to be “run wet” which means the user can add an
ablative solutionn before shooting. The ablative, a vaporized liquid or gel that cools hot gases and
further suppresses noise, is added in very small amounts to the suppressor’s blast chamber before
mounting it on your barrel. The blast chamber is the first section inside your suppressor before the
blast baffle that contains the initial and largest increase of temperature and pressure.

Most people use water, wire pulling gel or synthetic grease, but almost any non combustible/non
toxic liquid or gel can be used as an ablative. I’ve seen both soda and coffee used with good results.

When “running wet” only use about a teaspoon (5 mL) of liquid – using too much can increase
internal pressures enough to damage your can. The benefits of using a gel or grease is that it won’t
run out of the silencer like a liquid. And your liquid or gel of choice will only last about 15-20 rounds
before completely burning off, so be prepared to refill often.

Takeaway: In many silencers, “running wet” is a way to get an additional increase

in performance, albeit messy and somewhat inconvenient.

Hearing Protection.

Let’s talk about protecting your hearing from long term damage. I know it seems counterintuitive, but
even with a suppressor shooters should be wearing some form of hearing protection for anything
above rimfire and some subsonic pistol rounds. I was prepared to post charts from the Occupational
Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), decibel (dB) level comparisons and recommended
exposure levels.
But, I’d rather just keep it simple: again, at a minimum, wear some foam ear plugs for anything over
suppressed subsonic rimfire and some pistol cartridges. Be careful; some manufacturers will tout
“hearing safe” rifle silencers which is misleading – the sonic crack of high velocity ammunition alone
can cause long term damage to your hearing. So unless you like tinnitus (which I have and I don’t
like it), protect your ears.

Takeaway: For anything other than subsonic rimfire and some subsonic pistol
rounds, you should be wearing hearing protection when shooting suppressed.

Sights
If you bought a pistol suppressor, you may have noticed that your sights are now obscured.
One option is to leave the sights as they are and use a proper sight picture even though the are
blocked by the silencer. This technique, commonly called “shooting through the can” is widely used
and perfectly accurate. Another option is to install suppressor-height sights that are tall enough to
clear the body of the can. Either technique is easy and intuitive with practice.
Heat

Rifle suppressors can get hot after only a short string of fire. Really hot. Like scalding hot. Many
shooters use an oven mitt or a welder’s glove if they have to check their suppressor’s tightness
while shooting. Another option is to use a suppressor cover (also known as a mirage cover) that is
made of heat resistant materials that can protect you from contact with your hot silencer. I
prefer Cole-Tac, but companies like Rifles Only and Griffin Industries, also make high quality covers.
If you are a precision shooter, a suppressor cover will also help mitigate the mirage effect, a
phenomenon where rising heat from your silencer can cause visual distortions when using high
magnification optics.
It’s also important to note, even if you use a welder’s glove or heat resistant cover, don’t install a hot
suppressor on a cold barrel or mount. Metal contracts as it cools and by mounting your hot silencer
on a cold mount, you may not be able to remove it later by hand. If this happens, don’t worry,
warming everything up by shooting a string of fire will usually free up the suppressor.

‘Point of Impact’ Change

The suppressor you are now shooting with reduces the report of the firearm, but can also effect the
bullet’s trajectory. However, if installed correctly, the suppressor will have no effect on your
weapon’s accuracy. And it’s important to recognize the difference.

A change in Point of Impact (POI) or trajectory can be caused by the additional weight of the
suppressor pulling down on the muzzle of the barrel. Most likely, your Point of Impact (POI) change
will be minimal, and as with some brands of suppressors designed for precision guns, almost non
existent. Make sure you know and understand your host and suppressor combination’s POI change,
which is especially important if you are planning on switching from suppressed to unsuppressed or
using this setup as a defensive gun.

A change of accuracy is a measurable increase in group size (not group position) in comparison
to shooting unsuppressed. An accuracy change usually a result of a poor ammunition choice (trying
to use too heavy/long bullets in an attempt to get subsonic velocities), improper installation/mounting
where your bullets are contacting your suppressor’s internals or a change in your barrel’s harmonics.

Takeaway: Suppressors can change your point of impact compared to

unsuppressed shooting, but will only effect your host’s accuracy if not properly
installed. Know and practice with the resulting offset POI changes
when shooting suppressed or unsuppressed.

Cleaning
Because rimfire ammunition is notoriously dirty, most modern-day rimfire and pistol suppressors are
designed to be taken apart for cleaning. Rimfire rounds are either bare lead, copper washed or
otherwise coated rather than jacketed, the heat from shooting can melt the lead which gets
deposited in you silencer. These lead deposits, often called “leading” can slowly fill up your silencer
making it heavy, reduce suppression levels and make it impossible to take apart.
Courtesy: vdmsr.com

A recommended cleaning schedule for rimfire ammunition is approximately 500 rounds or after each
range session. Most cleaning can be done with a wire brush and a solvent, but heavy deposits can
be tackled with an ultrasonic cleaner or a reloading tumbler with the appropriate media. Just be
advised, that not all metals can be put into a ultrasonic cleaner, so do your research before you drop
in your baffles. Don’t forget to take safety precautions like wearing gloves and a particulate mask
when cleaning your lead buildup.

“At minimum, it is a good idea to take rimfire cans apart after each range trip. Many companies have
worked to develop easy takedown silencers with isolated cores and interlocking baffles, but lead
buildup can practically weld a suppressor solid,” says Nathan Thornton from ModernRifleman.net.
There is a homemade solution called “the dip” that will actually dissolve lead very effectively. The
problem is that “the dip” mixture is extremely toxic and must be treated as hazardous waste. For this
reason alone, I can not recommend the dip as a method for cleaning your suppressor.

Like rimfire cans, most pistol silencers can be broken down for cleaning. This is especially important
if you shoot lead cast bullets since lead buildup can occur similar to that of rimfire cans. Just use the
same procedures, and take the same precautions, as you would when cleaning your rimfire
suppressors.

“While most silencers feature no moving parts that need cleaning attention, pistol suppressors are
an exception. Failure to keep the can’s booster assembly clean might turn your handgun into a
single shot sidearm,” says Thornton. “This is especially important for those who plan to use one of
the popular, adaptable handgun suppressors on dirty rimfire hosts.”

On the flip side, rifle suppressors rarely need cleaning and most aren’t designed to be taken apart
anyway. The one exception is your mounting device: take the time to clean, inspect and lubricate the
moving parts in your mount adapter after each range trip. If you are having attachment issues, using
a quality high-heat anti-seize product can be the solution. “Even after having a few thousand rounds
through them, the [rifle] cans I’ve sampled haven’t gained significant weight as a result of buildup,”
says Thornton from ModernRifleman.net
Takeaway: Rimfire cans need to be cleaned frequently. Pistol cans that shoot
unjacketed bullets also need to be cleaned. Centerfire rifle suppressors rarely, if
ever, need to be cleaned.

Courtesy: ModernRifleman.net

Storage
Since you are a responsible gun owner, you already own a secure solution for storing your firearms.
If you have the room, your silencers will be fine housed in your safe. What gets tricky is trying to
secure a suppressed gun that you plan on using for home defense. Unfortunately, there are only a
few quick-access options available, like the FAS1 Safe.
There are a lot of myths surrounding NFA ownership, one of which surrounds the storage of
NFA firearms. Without dragging this discussion out, restrict access to only those allowed to possess
your suppressor: you (if you transferred it to an individual) or your trustees/officers/employees* (if
you filed as an entity).

*Review your entity documents, with an attorney if necessary.

As for your paperwork, keep the original Form 4 copies in a secure spot, preferably in a fire resistant
safe. As a backup, either scan or take a picture of your forms, encrypt them with a password (either
PDF or a compressed zip file) and email them to yourself. I also suggest that you keep a paper copy
of your forms with your suppressors when you leave the house to go shooting and/or a digital copy
that you keep hand on your mobile device.

Legally, only a BATFE agent has the right to request to look at your approved forms to verify proper
ownership and possession. However, in the unlikely event that a local law enforcement officer, range
master or property owner wants proof that your silencers are legal, it’s probably easier to produce
your form and be on your way.
Takeaway: Restrict access to only those who are specifically allowed to possess
your silencer as listed on your approved Form 4. Keep copies of your Form 4’s
handy in case someone questions your legal ownership.

Courtesy: vdmsr.com

Final Thoughts
As with any process, the first time is the hardest and most daunting. With one purchase and transfer
behind you, all future purchases get exponentially easier.

The only job you have now is to introduce others to the world of silencer ownership. The only way
this process gets simplified is to support manufacturers, distributors and dealers by buying more
suppressors, Join the American Suppressor Association. Dispel any harmful rumors of silencer
ownership and practice safe gun handling so that we all look good.

Have fun. Quietly.

Comprehensive Review:
1. Check the NFA laws for your state.
2. Decide on the host(s) you want to suppress.
3. Research the specific types of suppressors.
4. Research suppressor manufacturers and their models.
5. Pick a silencer that best fits your needs.
6. Decide to buy either locally or out of state through a online retailer.
7. Pick a local SOT to handle your transfer and discuss terms.
8. Buy your silencer.
9. Wait for the Form 3 transfer to occur (if necessary).
10. Complete the Form 4 transfer paperwork and send your package to the BATFE.
 11. Wait.
12. Thread and mount barrels. Buy boosters and barrels. Research thread pitches for
certain calibers and guns.
13. Wait.
14. Pickup your new silencer from your SOT after your Form 4 is approved.
15. Confirm proper threading and mounting of your host and suppressor combination.
16. Shoot suppressed. Decide never to shoot unsuppressed again.
17. Inspect and clean your silencers after each range trip.
18. Properly store and restrict access to only those specifically allowed to possess your
NFA item.
19. Contribute to expanding legal silencer ownership by introducing shooters to the new
world of suppressor ownership.
20. Repeat the process to buy other silencers and help others buy their first silencer.

Courtesy: ModernRifleman.net

Definitions of Commonly Used Silencer Terms:

• Ablative – A substance, usually a liquid or gel, added to some suppressors to increase
performance.
• Adapter – The threaded end or end cap that threads a silencer onto a barrel.
• Blast Chamber – The first section inside the silencer that takes the brunt of the heat
and gases while firing.
• Booster or Nielsen Device – An inertia device that uses the force of the trapped gases
in the silencer to cycle the action of a semiautomatic pistol.
• Baffle – The cone-like sections inside the suppressor that work to slow and cool
gasses.
• Baffle Stack – All of a suppressor’s baffles together acting as one sound-reducing
system.
• Baffle Strike – When a bullet damages a silencer’s baffle.
• Blowback – Gases that would have normally exited the muzzle are redirect back
through the barrel towards the shooter.
• Dealer – A Federal Firearms Licensee (FFL) that has paid a Special Occupational Tax
(SOT) for the year, allowing them to sell National Firearms Act (NFA) controlled items
like suppressors.
• Decibels (dB) – a unit used to measure the intensity of a sound by comparing it with a
given level on a logarithmic scale.
• “Dedicated Can” – The theory of buying a suppressor that will be specifically
dedicated to one host.
• “The Dip” – A highly toxic and hazardous mixture that is used to dissolve lead deposits
when cleaning suppressors.
• Direct Thread – A type of suppressor that mounts directly on to a barrel without the
need for a mount or adapter.
• End Cap – The muzzle end of the silencer.
• End Cap Strike – When a bullet damages a silencer’s end cap.
• Form 3 – BATFE transfer paperwork used by dealers, distributors and manufacturers to
transfer NFA controlled items like suppressors.
• Form 4 – BATFE transfer paperwork used to transfer NFA items like suppressors from
an FFL/SOT to unlicensed individuals or entities.
• Instructions – The manufacturer’s documentation that comes with your silencer that
you will read and understand before mounting and shooting with your suppressor.
• Integral Suppressor – A type of suppressor designed to only be used on one barrel,
upper or host.
• Markings – The Manufacturer, Model Number, Location and Serial Number engraved
on the main part of a suppressor as required by law.
• Mirage – Visual distortions seen when using optics, caused by heat rising off the
suppressor.
• Monocore – A type of one-piece baffle structure found inside some types of
suppressors.
• Mount – The part of the suppressor that attached to the barrel of your gun.
• Over-The-Barrel – A type of silencer that uses proprietary mounts that starts before the
muzzle of the barrel to increase a silencer’s volume.
• Peel Washers – Very thin washers used with some brake or flash hider mounts to
properly time (orient) the mount’s porting
• Porting – A technique commonly used on Integral suppressors to bleed off gases by
drilling holes (ports) in a barrel, slowing bullets to subsonic velocities.
• Shims – Very thin washers used with some brake or flash hider mounts to properly time
(orient) the mount’s porting
• Subsonic Ammunition – Ammunition designed to have muzzle velocities below the
speed of sound, preventing the sonic crack heard when a projectile would break the
sound barrier.
• Thread pitch – A variety of different thread patterns on the muzzle of a barrel that are
usually specific to a caliber.
• Tube – The body of the silencer.
• Volume – The amount of space inside a silencer that is available for gases to be
trapped, slowed and cooled.
Pete
Editor In Chief- TFB
LE – Silencers – Science
Pete@thefirearmblog.com