KAIKOURA l BERLIN l ROME l BOSTON l HAVANA

A TIMES OF INDIA PUBLICATION

NOVEMBER 2018
INDIA

Last-Minute
WINTER
Getaways
IMMERSE YOURSELF IN

ARMENIA Land of snowy mountains,

mystical monasteries and Noah’s Ark

HIT THE SLOPES AND PATHS OF

SOUTH KOREA
& JORDAN
PLOT A VFM TRIP ACROSS

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THAILAND
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 editor’s note THIS MONTH’S COVER

THE LONELY PLANET

MAGAZINE INDIA
PROMISE
Lonely Planet Magazine India
provides trusted, independent travel
advice and information that has been Primrose Monteiro-D’Souza, Editor
gathered without fear or favour. Follow me on Twitter @PrimroseDSouza PHOTOGRAPH: JUSTIN FOULKES
We aim to provide you with options & Instagram @primrosedsouza Armenia is both welcoming and
that cover a range of budgets and mysterious. Here, morning mist in
we reveal the positive and negative the valley of the Araks River swirls

of all locations we visit. Right now: where’s your passport? around Khor Virap

Because we believe it is important

that our journalists experience We’ve learned as travellers to seize the opportunity of a day somewhere close
first-hand what they’re writing to the weekend to sally out on a last-minute trip, to brave the boss and ask for a day’s leave
about and because you require
comprehensive information from every here and there, to justify to ourselves why this chance must not be missed.
corner of the world, at times
All because the world is out there waiting to be explored.
it may be necessary for us to seek
assistance from travel providers How great is it, then, that the Indian passport now works in favour of these forays! There are
such as tourist boards, airlines,
hotels, national parks, etc. However, countries out there ready to welcome us with e-visas, visas on arrival, or no visas at all.
when receiving such assistance, Last issue, Aurelia and Krishna drove into Bhutan from Bagdogra in West Bengal, receiving
we ensure our editorial integrity and
independence are not compromised their entry permits in Phuentsholing. This issue, we have features on Jordan and Central
through the following measures:
Thailand, both countries that offer Indians a visa on arrival, while Armenia, beautiful
 by publishing information on all Armenia with its Noah’s Ark associations, will take you on board with just about three days’
appropriate travel suppliers and not
just those who provided us with notice. At a week’s notice, the winter in South Korea awaits you; Amrita still can’t stop
assistance raving about her visit, blood on the snow and all, and Aurelia’s up-close-and-personal
 by never promising to offer anything
in return, such as positive coverage.
immersion into the dance form and town of Kuchipudi needs no visa at all.

Disclaimer: All prices, flight and other transport

We’re still waiting to hear from you about our new formats for Explore and Journal sections,
details, contact details and other information
have been provided by the respective
but don’t let writing in to us get in the way of planning that next quick trip. Incidentally,
corporations and/ or verified travel operators
and are correct at the time of going to print. from now to New Year’s is also when you’ll find some great airfares for summer 2019;
All prices listed for international destinations
are calculated as per exchange rates prevalent who says travel can’t be both about the last-minute and the well-planned-out trip?
at the time of going to print. Lonely Planet
Magazine India and Worldwide Media
cannot be held responsible for changes
in such details after publishing.
 t
ne
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Volume 9, Issue 10 | noVember 2018
ag
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In this issue...
ld
or
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Jordan,
ExplorE
Your world of new discoveries pg 58
8 Weekend planner: Go beyond the
ordinary on a unique culinary trail
across North Goa, sweat it out
on a trek up to the ancient
Vasota Fort in Maharashtra,
and other ways to escape the
daily grind
15 The Secret History of the Scottish kilt
18 Well-spent: Seeing Berlin, Germany
on a budget
20 Try Something New: Go on
a diving holiday
21 Been there, done that: Rome, Italy,
for first-timers or old hands
22 News, views and more wonderful
ways to discover our planet

Journal
Tales from the road
28 Kaikoura in New Zealand in photos
32 Our writers’ solo travel fails
33 Our readers’ spooky travel tales
34 Postcards: The lanterns in Luang
Prabang, Laos, and other snapshots
38 Instagram photo challenge: Curve
39 Model Traveller: Elena Fernandes
40 Moving to Mexico
42 In search of the perfect clam chowder
in Boston, the USA

MInI GuIdEs
Themed guides to pull out and take
with you
112 Brush up on your history in Oxford,
Great Britain
114 The mountains are calling in
Darjeeling, West Bengal
116 Shop till you drop in Milan, Italy

follow us on
lonely Planet magazine India

@lonelyplanetmagazineindia

@lPmagIn
 Introducing our new front sections
EXPLO RE

THE SECRET HISTOR

Y OF

The

explore
Scottish
p32 Kilt Sporrans have been around
longer than kilts have – these
medieval-style pouches turned
out to be a handy alternative
With the exception of the to the pockets that traditional
Loch Ness monster, no other kilts lack. They also act
as a strategically-placed
Scottish icon is as enigma
tic weight in windy weather.
and contentious as the kilt.
Read on to discover why
The average man’s
kilt uses eight yards
DESPITE SUGGESTIONS (7.3 metres) of fabric
to the contrary at 28 inches wide.
in Braveheart, the kilt is not
the timeless,

your world of discoveries

For a good-quality
ancestral dress of all Scotsmen.
Before it was one, expect to pay
enshrined as part of Scottish
national dress at least ` 30,000 –
in the 19th century, it divided and that’s before you
opinion across
the country. The majority include accessories,
Lowland population
tended to think of it as barbaric, like sporrans.
calling
its bare-legged wearers
‘redshanks’, while
Highlanders in turn, saw
trousers as ‘unmanly’.
The wearing of kilts in Scotland
was banned The sgian dubh
after the Jacobite rebellion

Whatever type of trip you’re planning this month,

of 1745; until (‘skee-uhn doo’) is a small, No question is more personal
the ban was lifted later that single-edged knife worn
century, the than what a ‘true Scotsman’
penalty was six months’ (inside a protective cover)
imprisonment if ought to wear under his kilt.
caught, while repeat offenders tucked into the top of long Tradition says ‘nothing’ and
would get

we’ve got the know-how to help you on your way.

seven years’ transportation socks. As an item fans of this approach say
to the colonies.
The kilt’s return to official of ‘national dress’, that the heavy fabric provides
favour came in 1822,
when King George IV paid it is exempt from all the warmth needed, but
OR E the first visit to

Our experts and locals share their recommendations

UK laws regulating kilt-hire companies prefer
EX PL Scotland by a reigning British
monarch in

ays
offensive weapons. underwear to be worn, as
almost two centuries. The do

Holid
NEW much-caricatured
THING king was encouraged by organisers of Scottish dancing
SOME the Romantic writer
TRY

Diving
and Highland games events.
Sir Walter Scott to wear

and insider tips, meaning you’ll have a better holiday,

a kilt – although
the skin-coloured tights he
paired it with
diving, were a departure from Highland
to scuba custom.
omers ath Tartan patterns became
For newc rld bene se
whether you fancy a quick city break, an active trip
formalised in
the wo tho the early 19th century. Since
exploring plays with all way have been added, and the
then new designs
the wa
ves ptions in a official Scottish
um
ased ass ts can beat – Register of Tartans (yes, there
is one) now
land-b

that will really push your boundaries or a lazy

au ns,
ly astron ral garde lists thousands of patterns,
including ones
that on pical co u’re for Heineken, Domino’s Pizza
ong tro like yo and the
float am to feel ny Canadian Dental Associatio
ea sy Ma n.
and it’s n world.

weekend in the countryside.

an alie sions If you want a kilt of your own,
in ses
arrive d
tres ha
ve taster athing claim Scottish roots – let
but can’t
alone Highland clan Kilts: See how this key piece
dive cen t sure about bre Order yourself a bespoke
if you’re
no
as well
as
ancestry – tradition still allows
‘universal tartans’, such as
you to wear check of national dress is made
at Highland House of
kilt at 21st Century Kilts
Kilts get put through their
paces in events as varied
a tube, urses.
through ining co or Flower of Scotland. The
the Black Watch
them Fraser in Inverness, where
in Edinburgh, where textile
as piping, tug-of-war and

p08 p16
tified tra ory sid
e one shown here, a options controversially include
PADI-cer tackle the the
out

CATEDRAL
the Stewart Hunting tartan, band of merry kiltmakers stitch, tossing the caber at the
all, e associated with
e you tak
leather, denim, pinstripe
Best of
EXPLORE

t befor the royal house of Stewart, pleat and press tartan (www. Argyllshire Gatherin
EXPLORE
firs is an off-duty style and camo print g
at home overseas and appropriate for anyone highlandhouseoffraser.com). (Oban Games) in August

PHOTOGRAPH: ALEX
ng e to wear. (www.21stcenturykilts.com).
the plu CREATIVE CAFÉ (www.shga.co.uk). TO COOL OFF…
“A hot day in Havana
WELCOME TO THE NEIGHBOURHOOD “Close to the National Museum of Fine
Arts
can reach a roasting 32°C,

Old Havana, Cuba

onto
is Café del Ángel Jaqueline Fumero. Facing so I’d choose to spend
a small plaza of beautifully-painted buildings, it in the shade of Plaza
that will
the café has a peaceful, artistic atmosphere de Armas, Havana’s oldest
remind you of Paris. It sells cocktails, crêpes,
Rita introduces us to vintage cars, square. It’s lined with leafy
In Cuba’s capital, Havana local Diana
crêpe
iced coffee and more. I love to eat a banana trees and tall palms, and lots
colonial façades that look out over under one of the colourful parasols outside.”
old-world stone plazas and Spanish Compostela, corner of Cuarteles
of benches where families
come to sit and feed the birds.
the Caribbean Sea People laze on the grass
and read, picnic or just
@dianaritac
relax and enjoy the seclusion
from the city.”
Cuba Tacón
030-Explore_secret history
of Scottish kilt-STAN_R
1.indd 33

1 2 SUNSET BOULEVARD
) “If you only do one thing when
Y (INDIA you come to Havana, you have 10/17/18 4:14 PM
CHERR
4

PUDU erry’s
to go to the Malecón, the city’s

LIZE) Puduch l five-mile sea drive, and watch

ER (BE One of it’s a coo lore the sun set over the ocean.
CAULK f is that At this time of day, the Malecón
CAYE rier Ree ed secrets ch to exp ple
from whi
transforms and comes to life.
ze Bar par Tem
EEC E) The Beli ler com place ered by vel
Street performers play all
(GR a tidd fs. Off

Y
along the thoroughfare
CRETE may be it still the ree y-le

ALAM
was the entr
diving ia’s, but e as the dusk sets in, couples

) Unt il 2005, t Gre ek to Austral ld’s Adv entures, rse will hav go walking, and groups

ISKA/
wor
Diver Cou to a depth
DINNER FOR TWO
(MALTA d in mos
counts
as the al reef Scuba
of friends talk and watch
restricte keen were
“Los Mercaderes is a beautiful
GOZO ed roc
ky gest cor diving
the waves together.

IN STRM
-lar rs restaurant where you can watch
ark so e of
beginne
It’s very beautiful.”
Cave-m waters, tect second -fre end

p20
ies to pro l my, car res at the
the sun go down from a balcony
S some em. Bal or Avenida de Maceo

VISAYA ES) res and er authorit gica syst a launch of 12 met an instruct a couple of storeys above the

MART
sho the olo is
ILIPPIN rest wat archae ed, lker – with bustling streets. It’s a very romantic

(THE PH than 7,000 of the clea rranean sunken e flourish Caye Cau t trips to dive day two nt, of setting. A violinist and a guitarist
. It’s sinc d assista

OGRAPH:
e ld’s dite e boa
point for its own marine or certifie r pool sess ions to duet in the evenings, and
With mor of the wor in the Me to the Maltes remains y on Crete. le IN HEMINGWAY’S . FOOTSTEPS the decoration harks back
in one rs larl afte n sea the very
sites, whi haven for
is a pedestrianised street that runs from
of
islands ions, the dra w dive rs can particu s trips course the ope
“Calle Obispo to Havana’s colonial past,
mbai
Out 3 5
reg inne run a for Central, right up to the ocean. It’s packed

PHOT
coral . Beg phin is e you heart of
s.com
the city, Parque with colourful tiles, wooden
Mu )
richest gs all the islands drama Blue Dol und reserve uding prepar ture
venwith small shops, cafés and food vendors.
If you walk down here,
ceilings, stained glass and
sites aro large incl es.
0km
(59
ines brin want from erwater mplead you get a real snapshot of Havana, and all the sightsyou’ll and smells
WHAT SHOULD
to diving wildlife
posters of iconic Cuban films.
www.te
1. The view from Pomodoro
find und und Gozo;
Imagine a roundel of delicately-charred blue cheese lying and drink was often just sustenance for the beach-bumming If Mexican is your thing, Habanero in Baga comes with the
Philipp of them ate on the block, smell
ld , many
I KNOW BEFORE
and man gbelize.com
Italian Bistro of deserted Dona of the dusty colonial town. Depending The food is partly traditional
you cou
in wait on a bed of the crispest salad greens, dotted with and partying that are hallmarks of a good Goan vacay. big sombreros, but also generous helpings and a microbrewery
aro tery turtles
might also see the
colour at sites Elounda
Paula Beach is priceless
boiled corn, fried churros or pizza. You
a vertical
the I ARRIVE IN HAVANA?
WEEKEND PLANNER the crunch of walnuts and the satisfying toothiness of dried figs Add to that this newest offer: a feast for the senses, in a handful on site. The Macho Nachos make perfect starters, and the Tres
. Among the pot divin Cuban, with lots of rice and
2. Habanero offers
Hole is ed with eks. enchies Ambos Mundos Hotel, where Ernest
Hemingway wrote
beans and smashed polenta, “There is no public internet in Cuba.
a first dive nds is Bohol, ient Gre www.fr
recently resuscitated by red wine. You’re in an esoteric space, of restaurants run by people for whom their ventures are very Leches Cake and the Churros con Chocolat the perfect finish,

Eat (Something scatter

JOURNAL
its Blue
a colourful dining
ted For Whom the Bell Tolls.” If you want to use the internet, you need
to find
of the anc ete.gr
but there’s some gourmet
connec
brick walls interspersed with hanging horizontal slats and obviously a labour of love. That includes, of course, Amavi, experience but, if you’re still looking to heighten that happy ending, take
isla e means
PVC pipes artfully repurposed as light wands. It seems almost less than a year old. More easily found on the Calangute- yourself to Cream Choc at Anjuna, to find great gelato flavours
Visayas offshor chimney debris Calle Obispo seafood as well.” a hotspot and buy a scratch card. This
near the b-cr
3. The Crispy Duck Rolls
Cabilao
yourself:
you really have to discover Havana for
. iversclu 207, Mercaderes

Different) in
impossible that, in a little corner of Calangute, in a former art Candolim strip is Koi Asian Dining, where owners Shefali that you’ll want to take back to your hotel. Which you can.
rs
to the sea Azure Window
at Koi should be on your
gallery (aha, that explains so much!), you will find dishes like Gandhi and Aziz Lalani are hands-on in ensuring that your must-try list Want to carry food farther? The locals buy their bebinca with tiny Sea Explore www.d download maps offline, ask locals where

p10
d). ed to go, and wander around with few plans.
(picture ices and collaps
the Warm Danish Blue Cheese Cloud, the Marinated Crab dining experience is exquisite. The food does its part, of course 4. Tucked away in a bylane from Simonia in Mapusa Market. Take a sweet cue from that.

KUMAR SRISKAN-

GETTY IMAGES
both nov .com The city will only reveal itself to you

North Goa
in Calangute, Amavi by Sumera
3:57 PM
ozodive
Cakes (to be eaten before the blue cheese, please), and Beef – the Crispy Duck Rolls, the Koi Pork Ribs, the Khowsuey

RITA CABRERA
.
can take rs out to sea
THE ACE
www.g
is set in a former art gallery
Wellington in its jacket of pastry. Chef Sumera Bhalla of Amavi and the desserts are all excellent – but Shefali assembling your EAT: Amavi by Sumera: www.amavigoa.com; Calangute; 10/17/18 building on its own, authentically.”
5. When clams are in season, “Tour guides will often point out the oldest
by Sumera relies only on word of mouth to get people to her little bowl of said khowsuey for you adds that very personal touch. Warm Danish Blue Cheese Cloud: ` 450; Koi Asian Dining: dive MICROBREWS & MARACAS mention is that
master ers.com in Plaza Vieja, but what they won’t often

CARD IMAGE: PRINT COLLECTOR/

do try the Spaghetti alle Vongole Factoria
“Havana’s liveliest microbrewery is La

PHOTOGRAPHS: SHUTTERSTOCK,
a-explor
shrine to fine food; she is but one of a new tribe of restaurateurs Italy finds itself on a plate at Pomodoro Italian Bistro www.koigoa.com; Calangute; Crispy Duck Rolls: ` 475;

DAN/AGE FOTOSTOCK, DIANA

Havana’s museum
it’s home to the little Museo de Naipes,

ILLUSTRATION: MUTI-FOLIO ART.

at Pomodoro Italian Bistro
beers
Words & Photographs: PRIMROSE MONTEIRO-D’SOUZA
@PrimroseDsouza
offering food lovers a new incentive to travel to North Goa.
The sunshine state has always been the one you could visit
in Dona Paula. Most of the charcuterie comes in with Vanna
and David from Puglia, and all the pasta is handmade to her
Facing page: The Warm
Casa Pomodoro Italian Bistro: Casa Tropicana, Dona Paula;
Spaghetti Carbonara: ` 450; Habanero: www.habanero.in;
www.se Plaza Vieja. You can buy light and dark
outside
served in ice-frosted glasses, and sit
of playing cards. There are 2,000 cards
on display
caricatures
Danish Blue Cheese Cloud
Cuban with very surprising illustrations – animals,
repeatedly. There were the beaches, the typical Goan fare for painstaking standards. Ask for the spaghetti Bolognaise and at Amavi by Sumera Baga; Macho Nachos from ` 330; Cream Choc: opp Our Lady on the cobbled plaza listening to live have round cards.
brewery of artists and politicians – and they even
the carnivores, North Indian food for the less adventurous, and the Carbonara, but also, if you’re lucky with clams being of Health Chapel, Mazal Waddo, Anjuna; scoop from `120; music (lots of maracas and guitars). The
Children love this place.”
South Indian staples for the vegetarians, all washed down available, the spaghetti alle vongole. Among the pizzas, Simonia: Mapusa Municipal Market; bebinca: ` 200/ 500g has large open doors and there’s always
Calle Muralla
with generous amounts of feni, or feni-based cocktails. The food the Quattro Stagioni, with artichokes, is a must-try. a lively crowd in the evenings.”
Corner of San Ignacio and Muralla

33
1.indd
DEEP_R 10/17/18 3:57 PM
holidays-
Diving
035-Explore Weekend planner_Eating in Goa-STAN_R1.indd 33-34 10/17/18 4:27 PM g new
somethin
ore try
006-Expl 002-Explore Know your neighbourhood
- Havana-DEEP_R1.indd 33-34

A bit of armchair travel is the best way to inspire a

p39
JOURNAL

future trip. If you can’t get away this month or simply Model
want to drift off on a daydream for hour or two, Traveller
J let our writers, photographers and travellers take you
on a vicarious journey, whether through the narrow
Model and actor Elena
Fernandes has Indo-Peruvian
roots, and her wanderlust

o
shows in her travels
lanes of a Moroccan hilltop town or to the tables
of the coolest barbecue restaurants in Memphis. I’m a lone traveller, but that’s because
of the industry I am in. I always have a suitcase
packed and ready to go at a moment’s notice.

u p40
Still, I love it when my best friend joins me,
simply because it’s easier for someone else
JOURNAL to take a picture of you in front of a landmark
than the standard selfie, hahaha!

I’ve been fortunate to work in so many

different cities in India and at some incredible

r
locations, so I’d say India is the most interesting
place I’ve explored on work. I love discovering
the hidden gems of the country.

There’s no place I don’t particularly want to

ONLY NOW DO I REALISE WHAT A BIG THING
it was to move 10,000 km across the world from my home in Slovenia to be
go back to. I’m never too keen on outdoor shoot
with my boyfriend in Mexico. I met Mariano at a friend’s party in Ljubliana,
locations where there are mosquitoes and bugs.

n
and we ended up spending a day together, drinking coffee by the river
MY TRIP
and sharing stories about places we had visited. We didn’t believe
I’m super allergic to mosquito bites; I just flare up,
Moving to Mexico
in long-distance relationships, so I decided to move to be with him in Baja
California Sur. I didn’t know what to expect when I arrived here, and soon
realised that everything was different from home. At first, the thing that affected so any jungle location is out of the question.
me most was the weather. In Slovenia, we have four seasons; in Baja, we
Slovenian Romana Lilic moved to the other side have 350 days of sunshine, and the first year I was not aware of the passing
of the world to be with her boyfriend; here’s how of seasons, as every day felt like a sunny day in July. I realised that the seasons
are not measured by the weather but by wildlife: from August to November, I’d go back any time to Bali. That’s where
she got on in her new home we have the turtle season; from November to April, it’s whale season.
@romanalilic The other big difference was that daily routines for me, like going to the bank, my career started. My first shoot was on location
and finding spices for cooking, became daunting tasks in a new country
with a different language. While friends think I must be at the beach every in Bali and everything snowballed from there,
day, swimming, sunbathing and enjoying colourful drinks, I actually have
first with back-to-back shoots, then with film.

a
to work every day as a photographer and communications consultant.
It’s a pleasure to see the ocean from my car on the way to work though!
There are so many things that I love about Mexico, as these photos, taken
in Baja, Oaxaca and the Yucatán, show. I love the colours, the culture and JOU R NAL
the architecture. I love the desert, the jungle and the sea. I love that when we I love Cape Town too, because that’s where
go to our favourite beach, we always come across a family of wild donkeys
(that’s why we keep carrots and apples with us), and that there are still places I did the Kingfisher calendar for the first time.
where there is no phone signal. Mexico has 31 states and it’s my dream
that I will visit them all one day with Mariano. Eleven years after meeting Where I had a chance to swim with great white
in Ljubliana, we’re still together and sharing stories.
sharks – it was a childhood dream come true.
I want to go back and do that again.

l
I bring back a souvenir from each place
I visit; I love collecting different pieces that
reflect the culture of the city or country I’ve been to.
Usually it’s a cat ornament, a representation
Romana, pictured by her boyfriend
2
of the cat from that place. I also bring back a lot
Mariano at Rosas y Xocolate, e at Atlantic
1. Lunchtim
a boutique hotel in Mérida Fish Co.
chowder
of skulls. Weird, I know, but there’s something
2. A cup of .
at Legal Seafood
A full seafood
Facing Page: 34
about decorative skulls that I am drawn to.
spread at Row
And I always bring back a fridge magnet for
”Wh enever
a
Recent ly given
National
my mum, because she always asks for one.
spot on the
015-My trip Mexico-STAN_R1.indd 33-34 10/17/18 4:07 PM

Historic you’re
Register of
pier opened
Places, the
became the around
in 1914 and g port When you travel, enjoy your surroundings
nation’s leadin it still
by 1920. Today, nds a cup or and who you’re with. Use an old-school camera
thousa
processes
of seafood, bowl
of pounds so that you can get the images printed and put
Tales
some of
including
that go
the clams
chowd
into the city’s metallic
er. of chow
der, them in an album like your parents did when
Beyond a 360° you were a kid. It’s important to have fun.
bar, the cooks
are hard it’s like

from
the open
at work in
1

kitchen. The
smell home’’ You don’t need to Instagram everything!
wafts
of fried fish
, clam over a busy
the region
ure dish of crowd.

The
The signat at presidential lunchtime executive
been served from me is thing
IDENT IFYIN
G
chowder has since 1981, barring the
last Sitting across who has learned a
COME S TO every Vellante, of chowder
during
WHEN IT bowl of clam inaugurations by the tonne chef Rich
the history
into the ideal nces vary, ladled out te tells
what goes one, and is alike. or two about rant. Vellan
origins
al prefere s and locals at the restau chowder’s
chowder, person reference
point year to tourist I’m in Boston, a city his 21 years
England clam l times, when

road
historical lly

p42
but one good le’s 1851 To learn more, l history that hopefu me that New
Herman Melvil colonia back to colonia Nova
comes from ick, whose steeped in my questi ons about can be traced England, France and high
Moby-D rs to from the
classic novel, a fictional holds answe origins. fishermen fortune on
PERFECT Ishmael visits the island of centuries-old Boston Harbor, in search of arily
CH OF THE protagonist t on chowder’s over Scotia went origin wasn’t necess int.
shmen ts. a bridge m,
IN SEAR
chowder establithe coast of Massachuset As I cross Ships and
Museu seas. The dish’s ing its culinary footpr
off to me. I pass the
Tea Party d
a countr y
extend Onions,
of necessity.
READ

Clam
Nantucket, s! Hearken ly colonis ts who dumpe born board,
“Oh, sweet
friend
clams, scarce ed a tribute to
the r and helped Rather, it was all kept on
pork were
APH: MARK

of small juicy with pound into the harbou Independence. es and salt plentif ul on
shore.
It was made nuts, mixed British tea can War of potato milk were

r
hazel into Ameri 058-Journal_Elena
n are Fernandes-STAN_R1.indd
and best choice33 10/17/18 4:33 PM
pork cut up ignite the while clams

Chowfishinde
bigger than the
, and salted butter, it on the horizo of refrigeration, hing into
. PHOTOGR

ship biscuit enriched with Looming behind gs, a mixture of luxury With a lack everyt
the whole was to throw
little flakes; ed with pepper tall glass buildin offices that have sprung for sailors
make a stew. es
ully season apartments
and
a big pot and who grew up 20 minut
g ships and plentif .
GOULDING

ial into past decade Foods Vellan te,

From colon ns, and salt.” onions
potatoes and substitute
up in the
a seat at Legal
Sea
Fish Pier.
For
inauguratio Toss some t recipe and the makings
I settle into of the Boston
to presidential n’s ancien t view
BY RORY

Melville’s with a perfec

origins of Bosto butter and
you’ve got
we trace the a quest cream for
England clam
chowder.
and go on
COMPILED

of a fine New
signature dish best
of the city’s
4:02 PM
10/17/18
for a bowl
@kslane
SLANE
Words KEVIN @adamdetour
DETOUR
Photos ADAM

1.indd 33-34
chowder-STAN_R
nsearch of_clam
007-008-Journal_i
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In this issue...
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Volume 9, Issue 10 | noVember 2018

south Korea,
pg 86

Central Thailand,
pg 94

Features Mexico, armenia,

More ideas for your wish list pg 40 pg 48
48 Find fascinating stories of Noah’s Ark,
journeys through snowy mountains,
and forays into ancient monasteries –
all in the little-visited country of Armenia
58 Join us on a journey deep into Jordan
as we walk you along a new long-distance
footpath that traverses lost cities, parched
wadis, and some of the wildest quarters
of the Middle East
72 Find your rhythm and a venerable art form
in Kuchipudi, Andhra Pradesh
86 South Korea’s magical winters come
with plenty of surprises in store – expect
dancing Pikachus, beaches you’ll freeze
on (and be happy on!) and skiing
for every level of adventurer
94 Explore food markets, WWII heritage site,
temples, island beaches and jungles on
a perfect trip across Central Thailand
 explore
THE BEST OF THE MONTH'S TIPS & TRIPS

Every evening,
locals head to the
Malecón, Havana’s soulful
seafront drive, to meet,
greet, date and debate.
We’ve got the world
waiting in this
section...
What
phrase should
every visitor
to Hongdae know
before arriving?

‘Geonbae’
which means
‘cheers’
PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY
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Lucknow’s imartis with dollops

of rabri are as sinful as sinful gets
Facing page:
1 & 2. Be it the fiery flavours
of the local cuisine or the gorgeous
palatial homes, Chettinad has
plenty to delight visitors
3 & 5. Take a break from playing
hide-and-seek with the crabs at
Bakkhali to indulge in a sumptous
meal of plump fish cooked in a rich,
mustard gravy
4. Venture beyond Bakkhali to catch
a glimpse of the fishermen at work
in Frazerganj

COMPILED BY AMRITA LALL PHOTOGRAPHS: SAMEER MANGTANI (LUCKNOW), VINOBHA NATHAN (CHETTINAD), HASHIM BADANI (BAKKHALI)
of
Out
HI
DEL )
0km
(53
Eat your way through Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh
The former capital of the Awadh empire has a food culture that matches
its illustrious past and ensures that you will be eating like a nawab. It is
fitting, therefore, that you start your day with an early breakfast of nalli
nihari at the renowned Rahim’s. Follow it up with a decadent lunch at

Escape the Grind!

Weekend getaways, journeys of discovery,
chill-out breaks. Take your pick!
Idris Biryani. If you love chaat, there’s Royal Café in Hazratganj. Take along
two people with larger-than-usual appetites and call for the famed basket
chaat. A food trail of the city of nawabs is not complete without dropping
by its oldest mithai shop, 200-year-old Ram Asrey, and calling for malai
paan. And, before heading back home, you must stop by the busy lanes
of Aminabad. In the middle of all the commotion, you’ll find the legendary
Tunday Kababi, whose galawati kebabs are a must-eat. Feel free to channel
your inner glutton and have one too many of the melt-in-the-mouth kebabs,
because, if you can’t pig it out in Lucknow, where can you?

STAY: La Place Sarovar Portico (www.sarovarhotels.com/la-place-sarovar-portico-

lucknow); The Grand Radiant Hotel (www.thegrandradiant.com);
Hotel Clarks Avadh (www.hotelclarks.com/avadh-lucknow)

1 3
2 4
Out
of
I
NNA
CHE 6km)
(31
Soak in the rich culture of Chettinad, Tamil Nadu
From a generous smattering of centuries-old mansions and atmospheric forts to
unique culinary delights, Chettinad in eastern Tamil Nadu has all the ingredients
for an ideal weekend getaway, filled with rich culture, history and food. Start
with some mansion-hopping: stop by the exceptionally-beautiful Periya Veedu
in Athangudi, which is now a boutique hotel. From the Spanish tiles on the roof
to the Italian stained-glass windows, almost every surface in this palatial home
gleams. The Chettinad Palace in Kanadukathan is another grand mansion;
visitors are not allowed in, but it is worth stopping by for a look from the road.
Venture beyond the mansions and stop by Thirumayam Fort, which dates back to
1687. Apart from the fantastic views from the top, the fort also has three rock-cut
temples definitely worth visiting. Of course, no trip to the Chettinad region is truly
complete without sampling the unique fiery, flavourful cuisine. Try the famous
Chettinad chicken, but also indulge in sumptuous dishes including breakfast
staples such as paniyaram and idiyappam eaten with a variety of chutneys.
STAY: The Bangala (www.thebangala.com); Chettinadu Mansion (www.
chettinadumansion.com); Chettinadu Inn (www.chettinadunarayanvilas.com)
EXPLORE
5
of
Out A
KAT
KOL 5km)
(12
Chill out on the beach in Bakkhali, West Bengal
Extending like a narrow finger into the Bay of Bengal, Bakkhali is three
hours from Kolkata, and has one of the best-kept secrets of India’s eastern
coastline – a clean 7km-long beach, home to an army of red fiddler crabs
that scurries about your feet. With little else to do, the beach is perfectly
suited to knocking a football about and playing hide-and-seek with the
resident crabs. When night falls, treat yourself to kingly feasts of tiger
prawns and fish – simmered in Bengali mustard gravy. If you’re looking
to venture beyond Bakkhali, head to deserted Hazra Beach, and onwards
to Henry’s Island. Go off-road in this region – traipse through paddy fields
and strike up a chat with friendly village folk. Come afternoon, Bakkhali’s
twin fishing port of Frazerganj is the place to be. Its pier, buzzing with
the sights and sounds of loading boats, will well mark the end of your day
before you head back to Bakkhali and another feast of prawns and fish.
STAY: Hotel Amarabati (www.bakkhalihotelamarabati.com);
Hotel Deepak Bakkhali (www.hoteldeepakbakkhali.com); Hotel Dolphin Bakkhali
(www.hoteldolphin.in/bakkhali)
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The rains are gone (we all hope) and the winter sun is out,
making the weather just right for a trekking escapade to
WEEKEND PLANNER the mighty Western Sahyadris. Venturing into the woods
of the lesser-known Koyna Wildlife Sanctuary to arrive at

Trek up to Vasota the ancient Vasota Fort mandates a boat ride across the Koyna
River and, then, a challenging trek up to the battle fort that

Fort, Satara,
once belonged to Chhatrapati Shivaji. It isn’t the easiest
journey but one that’s absolutely worth all the effort.
Located on a remote outpost of the sanctuary, Vasota Fort,

Maharashtra
in addition to making for a great trek, offers the perfect
setting for lazy afternoons spent picnicking and doing almost
absolutely nothing. Surrounded by steep hills, the fort
is accessible only by water. Your weekend adventure, therefore,
begins at the riverside village of Tapola. From here, cruise
down the backwaters of the Koyna River, and keep your camera
handy to capture the stunning natural beauty on your way.
You’ll also notice plenty of water-sports enthusiasts,
from morning to dusk, around Shivsagar Lake.
The densely-forested hills are home to plenty of rich flora

10 November 2018

3 4
and fauna, including sloth bears, bison, boars, hyenas and 1. In addition to fantastic views,
tigers. Dock your boat at the base of the fort, from where your the summit of the fort promises
plenty of open space, perfect
trekking route begins and winds upwards. The route takes you for some lazy picnicking
PHOTOGRAPHS: T KRISHNA PRABAKAR
through thick shrub and tall trees like the palaquium ellipticum,
2. Around Shivsagar Lake,
more commonly known as palai. For company, you’ll have you’ll find plenty of water-sports
the constant chirping and twittering of birds and insects, enthusiasts
and endemic butterflies like the Tamil lacewing fluttering about 3. Mahabaleshwar and
you. You’ll come across plenty of spring-fed streams and be its strawberries-and-cream
tempted to drink straight from the cool, clean running water. are just 25km away
Don’t ditch your bottle just yet – the broad but steep trek will 4. The hills surrounding the
have you breaking into a serious sweat soon enough; you’ll ancient fort are home to
need that water bottle then. Treat that as a cue, also, to unpack a rich variety of flora and fauna
COMPILED BY AISHWARYA MENON
the tasty lunch of bhakri and vegetables, prepared by your
hotel’s kitchen. Fresh fish from Shivsagar Lake or Kolhapuri-style
spicy chicken are also common in this area and make for
a memorable feast. When you do get to the top, you’ll find
a crumbling jail made of stone, where Maratha rulers once kept
political prisoners. The yellow and purple wildflowers make
for a pretty sight and invite you to set a mat out on the grass.
EXPLORE
According to local folklore, it’s believed that Raja Bhoj
of Panhala had originally built the fort in the 12th century,
while another belief is that it belonged to the Shilahar dynasty.
There’s no confirmed evidence of either but the lack of records
somehow adds to the charm of the ancient fort.
From the top, as you soak in the views, on one side
you’ll see the Nageshwar Temple, to which pilgrims flock during
the annual Mahashivaratri celebrations. On the other side,
there’s Babukada. Call out your name from here, and you’ll
hear it echo over the untouched hills. Chances are no one,
except for a boatman or two down on the lake, will hear you.
Good to know: The Tapola Boat Club organises treks upto
Vasota Fort, including boat transport and guide fees (00-91-
94215-83469).
Stay: Lake View Sagar (www.lakeviewsagar.com); River View
Agro-Tourism & River Camp (www.riveragrotourism.com)
November 2018 11
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Imagine a roundel of delicately-charred blue cheese lying

in wait on a bed of the crispest salad greens, dotted with
WEEKEND PLANNER the crunch of walnuts and the satisfying toothiness of dried figs
recently resuscitated by red wine. You’re in an esoteric space,

Eat (Something brick walls interspersed with hanging horizontal slats and
PVC pipes artfully repurposed as light wands. It seems almost

Different) in
impossible that, in a little corner of Calangute, in a former art
gallery (aha, that explains so much!), you will find dishes like
the Warm Danish Blue Cheese Cloud, the Marinated Crab

North Goa
Cakes (to be eaten before the blue cheese, please), and Beef
Wellington in its jacket of pastry. Chef Sumera Bhalla of Amavi
by Sumera relies only on word of mouth to get people to her little
shrine to fine food; she is but one of a new tribe of restaurateurs
Words & Photographs: PRIMROSE MONTEIRO-D’SOUZA offering food lovers a new incentive to travel to North Goa.
@PrimroseDsouza The sunshine state has always been the one you could visit
repeatedly. There were the beaches, the typical Goan fare for
the carnivores, North Indian food for the less adventurous, and
South Indian staples for the vegetarians, all washed down
with generous amounts of feni, or feni-based cocktails. The food

12 November 2018
 EXPLORE

1 2

3 5

and drink was often just sustenance for the beach-bumming 1. The view from Pomodoro If Mexican is your thing, Habanero in Baga comes with the
and partying that are hallmarks of a good Goan vacay. Italian Bistro of deserted Dona big sombreros, but also generous helpings and a microbrewery
Paula Beach is priceless
Add to that this newest offer: a feast for the senses, in a handful on site. The Macho Nachos make perfect starters, and the Tres
2. Habanero offers
of restaurants run by people for whom their ventures are very Leches Cake and the Churros con Chocolat the perfect finish,
a colourful dining
obviously a labour of love. That includes, of course, Amavi, experience but, if you’re still looking to heighten that happy ending, take
less than a year old. More easily found on the Calangute- 3. The Crispy Duck Rolls yourself to Cream Choc at Anjuna, to find great gelato flavours
Candolim strip is Koi Asian Dining, where owners Shefali at Koi should be on your that you’ll want to take back to your hotel. Which you can.
Gandhi and Aziz Lalani are hands-on in ensuring that your must-try list Want to carry food farther? The locals buy their bebinca
dining experience is exquisite. The food does its part, of course 4. Tucked away in a bylane from Simonia in Mapusa Market. Take a sweet cue from that.
– the Crispy Duck Rolls, the Koi Pork Ribs, the Khowsuey in Calangute, Amavi by Sumera
is set in a former art gallery
and the desserts are all excellent – but Shefali assembling your EAT: Amavi by Sumera: www.amavigoa.com; Calangute;
bowl of said khowsuey for you adds that very personal touch. 5. When clams are in season, Warm Danish Blue Cheese Cloud: ` 450; Koi Asian Dining:
do try the Spaghetti alle Vongole
Italy finds itself on a plate at Pomodoro Italian Bistro at Pomodoro Italian Bistro www.koigoa.com; Calangute; Crispy Duck Rolls: ` 475;
in Dona Paula. Most of the charcuterie comes in with Vanna Casa Pomodoro Italian Bistro: Casa Tropicana, Dona Paula;
Facing page: The Warm
and David from Puglia, and all the pasta is handmade to her Danish Blue Cheese Cloud Spaghetti Carbonara: ` 450; Habanero: www.habanero.in;
painstaking standards. Ask for the spaghetti Bolognaise and at Amavi by Sumera Baga; Macho Nachos from ` 330; Cream Choc: opp Our Lady
the Carbonara, but also, if you’re lucky with clams being of Health Chapel, Mazal Waddo, Anjuna; scoop from `120;
available, the spaghetti alle vongole. Among the pizzas, Simonia: Mapusa Municipal Market; bebinca: ` 200/ 500g
the Quattro Stagioni, with artichokes, is a must-try.

November 2018 13
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CLICK and

SUBSCRIBE
TO FABULOUS DISCOUNT OFFERS!

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EXPLORE

THE SECRET HISTORY OF

The
Scottish Sporrans have been around
longer than kilts have – these

Kilt medieval-style pouches turned

out to be a handy alternative
to the pockets that traditional
kilts lack. They also act
With the exception of the as a strategically-placed
Loch Ness monster, no other weight in windy weather.

Scottish icon is as enigmatic

and contentious as the kilt. The average man’s
Read on to discover why kilt uses eight yards
(7.3 metres) of fabric
at 28 inches wide.
For a good-quality
DESPITE SUGGESTIONS to the contrary one, expect to pay
in Braveheart, the kilt is not the timeless, at least ` 30,000 –
ancestral dress of all Scotsmen. Before it was and that’s before you
enshrined as part of Scottish national dress include accessories,
in the 19th century, it divided opinion across like sporrans.
the country. The majority Lowland population
tended to think of it as barbaric, calling
its bare-legged wearers ‘redshanks’, while
Highlanders in turn, saw trousers as ‘unmanly’.
The wearing of kilts in Scotland was banned The sgian dubh No question is more personal
(‘skee-uhn doo’) is a small, than what a ‘true Scotsman’
after the Jacobite rebellion of 1745; until
single-edged knife worn ought to wear under his kilt.
the ban was lifted later that century, the
(inside a protective cover) Tradition says ‘nothing’ and
penalty was six months’ imprisonment if tucked into the top of long fans of this approach say
caught, while repeat offenders would get socks. As an item that the heavy fabric provides
seven years’ transportation to the colonies. of ‘national dress’, all the warmth needed, but
The kilt’s return to official favour came in 1822, it is exempt from kilt-hire companies prefer
when King George IV paid the first visit to UK laws regulating underwear to be worn, as do
Scotland by a reigning British monarch in offensive weapons. organisers of Scottish dancing
almost two centuries. The much-caricatured and Highland games events.
king was encouraged by the Romantic writer
Sir Walter Scott to wear a kilt – although
the skin-coloured tights he paired it with
were a departure from Highland custom.
Tartan patterns became formalised in
the early 19th century. Since then new designs
have been added, and the official Scottish
Register of Tartans (yes, there is one) now
lists thousands of patterns, including ones
for Heineken, Domino’s Pizza and the
Canadian Dental Association.
If you want a kilt of your own, but can’t Kilts: See how this key piece Order yourself a bespoke Kilts get put through their
claim Scottish roots – let alone Highland clan of national dress is made kilt at 21st Century Kilts paces in events as varied
ancestry – tradition still allows you to wear check at Highland House of in Edinburgh, where textile as piping, tug-of-war and
PHOTOGRAPH: ALEX CATEDRAL

‘universal tartans’, such as the Black Watch them Fraser in Inverness, where a options controversially include tossing the caber at the
or Flower of Scotland. The one shown here, Argyllshire Gathering
the Stewart Hunting tartan, associated with
out band of merry kiltmakers stitch,
pleat and press tartan (www.
leather, denim, pinstripe
and camo print (Oban Games) in August
the royal house of Stewart, is an off-duty style highlandhouseoffraser.com). (www.21stcenturykilts.com). (www.shga.co.uk).
and appropriate for anyone to wear.
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WELCOME TO THE NEIGHBOURHOOD

Old Havana, Cuba

In Cuba’s capital, Havana local Diana Rita introduces us to vintage cars,
old-world stone plazas and Spanish colonial façades that look out over
the Caribbean Sea
@dianaritac

SUNSET BOULEVARD
“If you only do one thing when
you come to Havana, you have
to go to the Malecón, the city’s
five-mile sea drive, and watch
the sun set over the ocean.
At this time of day, the Malecón
transforms and comes to life.
Street performers play all
along the thoroughfare
as the dusk sets in, couples
go walking, and groups
of friends talk and watch
the waves together.
It’s very beautiful.”
Avenida de Maceo

IN HEMINGWAY’S FOOTSTEPS
“Calle Obispo is a pedestrianised street that runs from the very
heart of the city, Parque Central, right up to the ocean. It’s packed
with small shops, cafés and food vendors. If you walk down here,
you get a real snapshot of Havana, and all the sights and smells
of the dusty colonial town. Depending on the block, you’ll smell
boiled corn, fried churros or pizza. You might also see the
Ambos Mundos Hotel, where Ernest Hemingway wrote
For Whom the Bell Tolls.”
Calle Obispo

PHOTOGRAPHS: SHUTTERSTOCK, KUMAR SRISKAN-

DAN/AGE FOTOSTOCK, DIANA RITA CABRERA

MICROBREWS & MARACAS

“Havana’s liveliest microbrewery is La Factoria
Plaza Vieja. You can buy light and dark beers
ILLUSTRATION: MUTI-FOLIO ART.

served in ice-frosted glasses, and sit outside

on the cobbled plaza listening to live Cuban
music (lots of maracas and guitars). The brewery
has large open doors and there’s always
a lively crowd in the evenings.”
Corner of San Ignacio and Muralla

16 November 2018
 EXPLORE

CREATIVE CAFÉ TO COOL OFF…

“Close to the National Museum of Fine Arts “A hot day in Havana
is Café del Ángel Jaqueline Fumero. Facing onto can reach a roasting 32°C,
a small plaza of beautifully-painted buildings, so I’d choose to spend
the café has a peaceful, artistic atmosphere that will it in the shade of Plaza
remind you of Paris. It sells cocktails, crêpes, de Armas, Havana’s oldest
iced coffee and more. I love to eat a banana crêpe square. It’s lined with leafy
under one of the colourful parasols outside.” trees and tall palms, and lots
Compostela, corner of Cuarteles of benches where families
come to sit and feed the birds.
People laze on the grass
and read, picnic or just
relax and enjoy the seclusion
from the city.”
Cuba Tacón

DINNER FOR TWO

“Los Mercaderes is a beautiful
restaurant where you can watch
the sun go down from a balcony
a couple of storeys above the
bustling streets. It’s a very romantic
setting. A violinist and a guitarist
duet in the evenings, and
the decoration harks back
to Havana’s colonial past,
with colourful tiles, wooden
ceilings, stained glass and
posters of iconic Cuban films.
WHAT SHOULD
The food is partly traditional
I KNOW BEFORE
Cuban, with lots of rice and I ARRIVE IN HAVANA?
beans and smashed polenta, “There is no public internet in Cuba.
but there’s some gourmet If you want to use the internet, you need to find
seafood as well.” a hotspot and buy a scratch card. This means
207, Mercaderes you really have to discover Havana for yourself:
CARD IMAGE: PRINT COLLECTOR/ GETTY IMAGES

download maps offline, ask locals where

to go, and wander around with few plans.
THE ACE The city will only reveal itself to you
“Tour guides will often point out the oldest building on its own, authentically.”
in Plaza Vieja, but what they won’t often mention is that
it’s home to the little Museo de Naipes, Havana’s museum
of playing cards. There are 2,000 cards on display
with very surprising illustrations – animals, caricatures
of artists and politicians – and they even have round cards.
Children love this place.”
Calle Muralla

November 2018 17
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EXPLORE
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WELL SPENT

Berlin
The very best way to spend €250 euros in a single day
At the time of publication, €250 = ` 21,000

WHEN WE WIN
THE LOTTERY
Specialist tour operator
Black Tomato has just
added Bolivia to its
range of personalised
luxury tours, dubbed
‘Blink’ for their pop-up
nature. When you
arrive at your yurt or
‘moondome’ by the
flamingo-flecked salt
lakes of Bolivia’s Salar

PHOTOGRAPHS: MICHELBERGER HOTEL, VOLODYMYR GOINYK/GETTY CONTRIBUTIONS FROM ANDREA SCHULTE-PEEVERS

de Uyuni, fresh from
a hot-air balloon trip
over the desert, you
can rest assured that
STAY DO LUNCH nobody will have had

105 15 10
the same experience
before you, and no
€ € € one is likely to follow
(www.blacktomato.com;
from `9,00,000).
Book a loft apartment at the Head underground Grab a pizza and
Michelberger, the hotel that on a guided visit to tunnels a beer at Clärchens Ballhaus,
most encapsulates Berlin’s burrowed under the Berlin a 19th-century music hall
creative DIY spirit. Expect Wall, and hear tales complete with a parquet
industrial-style rooms, friendly of escapes, subterfuge dance floor, ornate Mirror
staff and live music in the lobby and capture during Hall and pretty garden
(www.michelbergerhotel.com). the days of the Stasi (www.ballhaus.de).
(www.berliner-unterwelten.de).

BUY DINNER DRINK

€ 40 € 70 € 10
WORDS: STEVE FALLON AND ANNA

Pick up an Ampelmännchen
sweatshirt at the official shop;
the green and red ‘traffic-light
men’ from the former East
adorn everything from deck
chairs to sweet tins
(www.ampelmann.de).
Tuck into organic, farm-to-table
dishes, such as Spreewald
lamb at Katz Orange,
set in a cavernous old brewery;
€70 will get you three courses
and a bottle of wine
(www.katzorange.com).
Pay what you like at Weinerei;
rent a glass for €2, enjoy your
wine or schnapps in the
living-room-style bar, then
plonk some money in the pot
on your way out
(www.weinerei.com).

18 November 2018
EXPLORE
NEXT BIG ADVENTURE
Komodo
National Park
A voyage to a land of dragons is no mythical
undertaking for those who dare venture
to the Indonesian archipelago of Komodo.
The explorer here will encounter hulking
mountainous islands fringed with mangroves,
laced with trails and patrolled by the world’s
largest lizard: the Komodo dragon.
SET YOUR COURSE The UNESCO-listed park
comprises the three larger islands of Komodo,
Rinca and Padar, 26 smaller islets, and some
of the country’s richest waters within its 700 square
miles. Like all good swashbucklers, the only way
to get here is by boat. Secure your passage
with one of the many tour operators on the island
of Flores, a two-hour journey away.
LAND AHOY The big draw is, of course,
the Komodo dragon, made familar by many
a David Attenborough documentary. You can spot
them in the park, napping in the shade or padding
about with their menacing gait, but you should
Here be dragons. The islands are
home to the world's biggest lizard
- the carnivorous Komodo dragon,
which grows up to 3m in length.
always be with
a guide or ranger
as Komodo dragons
have been known to attack
humans. There’s also big nature beneath the water’s
surface, where kaleidoscopic bait draws sea
creatures like sharks, manta rays and blue whales.
Combine that with coral that’s largely in pristine
condition, and you have some of the best diving
in the world. Above water, you’ll navigate
the islands on the park’s many official paths.
BED DOWN You can’t stay in the park and many
people visit on a day trip. The true adventurer
PHOTOGRAPHS: SUWANDI CHANDRA
will spend a few days on a live-aboard ship
docked offshore, organised in Flores.
HOMEWARD BOUND It’s a long way home,
so consider island-hopping back to Bali and its
international airport. Lying between Komodo
and Bali, the white-sand beaches of Lombok
are the perfect spots to prepare for the flight back.
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TRY SOMETHING NEW

Diving Holidays
For newcomers to scuba diving,
exploring the world beneath
the waves plays with all those
land-based assumptions in a way
that only astronauts can beat –
float among tropical coral gardens,
and it’s easy to feel like you’re
arrived in an alien world. Many
dive centres have taster sessions
if you’re not sure about breathing
through a tube, as well as
PADI-certified training courses.
Best of all, tackle the theory side
at home first before you take
the plunge overseas

VISAYAS
(THE PHILIPPINES)
With more than 7,000
islands in one of the world’s
richest coral regions, the
Philippines brings all the
GOZO (MALTA)
Cave-marked rocky
shores and some
of the clearest water
in the Mediterranean
draw divers to the Maltese
CRETE (GREECE)
Until 2005, diving was
restricted in most Greek
waters, so keen were
the authorities to protect
sunken archaeological
CAYE CAULKER (BELIZE)
The Belize Barrier Reef
may be a tiddler compared
to Australia’s, but it still
counts as the world’s
second-largest coral reef
PUDUCHERRY (INDIA)
One of Puducherry’s
secrets is that it’s a cool
place from which to explore
the reefs. Offered by Temple
Adventures, the entry-level
PHOTOGRAPH: MARTIN STRMISKA/ALAMY

colour you could want from
a first dive. Among the
Visayas islands is Bohol,
with tiny Cabilao offshore
(pictured). Sea Explorers
can take both novices and
master divers out to sea.
www.sea-explorers.com
islands. Beginners can
find underwater drama
at sites around Gozo;
its Blue Hole is a vertical
chimney connected
to the sea near the
collapsed Azure Window.
www.gozodive.com
remains. It’s since flourished,
particularly on Crete.
Blue Dolphin runs trips
to diving sites around
Elounda, many of them
scattered with the pottery
debris of the ancient Greeks.
www.diversclub-crete.gr
system. Balmy, car-free
Caye Caulker is a launch
point for boat trips to dive
sites, while its own marine
reserve is a haven for
wildlife large including
turtles and manatees.
www.frenchiesdivingbelize.com
Scuba Diver Course will have
beginners diving to a depth
of 12 metres at the end of
day two – with an instructor
or certified assistant, of
course after pool sessions to
prepare you for the open sea.
www.templeadventures.com

20 November 2018
EXPLORE
ROME
YOUR FIRST
TIME
The Forum was ancient Rome’s
showpiece, a grandiose district
of marble-clad temples and vibrant
public spaces – arrive early to avoid
the crowds and see the ruins
bathed in golden light
(www.coopculture.it).
A Rome institution
since its founding
in 1961, Armando
al Pantheon is a rare
find – a genuine
family-run trattoria in the rather touristy
Pantheon area. It remains one of the best
bets for earthy Roman cuisine made
with the finest quality ingredients
(www.armandoalpantheon.it).
La Bottega del Marmoraro
is a charismatic hole-in-the-wall shop
on a beautiful cobbled street where
you can have marble tablets engraved
with any inscription you
like (Via Margutta 53b).
In 1818, sculptor Canova
signed a contract for this
studio that agreed
it would be forever
preserved for sculpture,
which means
you knock back your
glass of Italian wine
surrounded by statues at Canova Tadolini
(www.canovatadolini.com).
Palm Gallery Hotel
is a delightful place in a historic villa
in central Rome. The swimming pool
and shady
garden are
very welcome
on a hot
day (www.
palmgallery
hotel.com;
from `10,000).
BEST THINGS IN LIFE
ARE FREE
Europe’s greatest
free museums
Museum-mooching on your city break
can be a pricy pursuit, but these
esteemed collections are yours to view
entirely for free
BEEN THERE,
DONE THAT
If you’ve seen every ancient site
within central Rome, head out
to the cobbled Appian Way
Do and spend a day walking or cycling
along some of its first 30 miles;
Sunday is best, when the pine THE PRADO, MADRID
tree-lined road is closed to traffic Once a royal collection, this feast
(www.parcoappiaantica.it). of fine art is now free every evening,
with paintings by Goya, Raphael,
The old stomping ground Rubens and more. Wait for some
of film director Pier space in front of Velázquez’s
Paolo Pasolini, enigmatic Las Meninas and
Necci is a laid-back Hieronymus Bosch’s frankly trippy
Eat restaurant catering The Garden of Earthly Delights
to an eclectic crowd, (www.museodelprado.es).
who come to drink
and dine on the leafy BRITISH MUSEUM, LONDON
terrace (www.necci London’s full of excellent freebies,
1924.com). but this mothership museum is one
of the best. If the press of visitors
If you’re after a hard-to-find grappa is too thick around the Egyptian
or something special for your wine mummies and the Rosetta Stone,
Buy
collection, historic Enoteca Costantini find less-heralded civilisations
is the place to try. It is superbly stocked to connect with. You’ll never
with wines from all over Italy as well get around in one day
as liquour from abroad (www.britishmuseum.org).
(www.enotecacostantinipiero.it).
WORDS: ANITA ISALSKA. PHOTOGRAPHS: SHUTTERSTOCK, TIZIANA FABI/GETTY IMAGES, ANDREA DI LORENZO
MUSÉE D’ART MODERNE,
Big Star is a backstreet bar with PARIS
Drink
an alternative feel. The drinks Housed in the riverside Palais de
menu is scrawled on a blackboard. Tokyo near the Eiffel Tower,
It has a relaxed vibe, DJs and this museum is dedicated to the art
live music, and a good choice of the 20th and 21st centuries,
of wine, spirits and beer on tap with works by Matisse, Modigliani,
(Via Goffredo Mameli 25). Braque and Soutine. Look out for
The Electricity Fairy – a room-
Perfectly placed on sized 1937 fresco by Raoul Dufy
a peaceful cobbled (www.mam.paris.fr).
lane in the quiet
side of Trastevere, CHESTER BEATTY LIBRARY,
Arco del Lauro is an DUBLIN
Sleep atmospheric bolthole In the grounds of Dublin Castle,
with six gleaming white you’ll find a astonishing collection
rooms. Daniela and of works that ranges far beyond
Lorenzo, who run the Emerald Isle, including
the place, could not be friendlier Chinese jade books and one
or more helpful (www.arcodellauro.it; of the world’s finest assemblies
from ` 7,000). of illuminated Qur’ans
(www.cbl.ie).
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Travel News
News, views and more wonderful ways to discover our planet

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
AT YOUR SERVICE
Planning a trip to Israel just got simpler.
The Jerusalem City Pass, a ticket
purchased before you arrive in Israel,
is valid for a week, and offers a bus
service from the airport to Jerusalem,
free inner-city public transportation and
discounts at the city's attractions and
museums, saving time spent on small
payments and standing in queues,
as well as offering discounts on the main
attractions in the city. All part of a range
of services in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv,
to make them more accessible and
convenient for visitors, including new
information centres in each city.
(www.info.goisrael.com/en/tourist-
information).

INPUTS BY: PRIMROSE MONTEIRO-D'SOUZA AND AMIT GAIKWAD PHOTOGRAPHS: METENKO (JAFFA/ISRAEL), NOAM CHEN
& ISRAEL MINISTRY OF TOURISM/ (JERUSALEM AT SUNSET), JERUSALEM DEVELOPMENT AUTHORITY (FOOD TRUCK)

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
TIME TO VISIT FRANKFURT’S NEW OLD TOWN
After years of construction, FRANKFURT reclaims an integral part of its rich and colourful
history, as the new old town between RÖMER CITY HALL and EMPERORS' CATHEDRAL
has been completed. Back in the day, the quarter’s hustle and bustle attracted countless
visitors to the city centre, especially when trade fairs and large-scale events were taking
place. With the reconstruction of the DOMRÖMER QUARTER, this cosmopolitan lifestyle
is being brought back to Frankfurt’s old town. Some 15 historical townhouses have been
rebuilt, while 20 new buildings have been erected in the typical style of Frankfurt’s old
town. Spread out over 7,000 square metres, the “new old town” features quaint laneways
and plazas, approximately 80 apartments and some 30 shops and restaurants.
Two brand-new city tours have also been conceived, this tour includes, amongst other
things, admission to the HISTORICAL MUSEUM FRANKFURT, a river cruise, hotel
accommodation and the FRANKFURT CARD for use of the city’s public transport system.
EXPLORE
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
EXCLUSIVE HAVEN AT THE
TOP OF THE SHIP
Norwegian Cruise Line’s private sanctuary at sea,
THE HAVEN BY NORWEGIAN, is the company’s most
luxurious and well-appointed accommodation offering.
Along with access to all the ship has to offer, additional
benefits include the personal services of a concierge
and a 24-hour butler, a sundeck reserved for guests,
an exclusive lounge, private dining options and a choice
of stay options — garden villas, deluxe suites, penthouses,
family villas and spa suites
(www.ncl.com/in/en/why-cruise-norwegian/cruise-
accommodations/the-haven).
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MARK YOUR CALENDAR
WHAT: Christmas magic in Innsbruck's Old Town
WHEN: November 15 to December 23, 2018
WHERE: Innsbruck, Austria
Experience the traditional, romantic and festive Christmas
atmosphere of Innsbruck’s Old Town. The colourful Christmas
market stalls are nestled between attractive medieval buildings
and the Golden Roof. Expect 70 market stalls with Christmas
tree decorations, handicrafts, woollen goods and souvenirs,
and, of course, indulge in some festive foods and mulled wine.
MORE: www.innsbruck.info/en
WHAT: Udaipur Tales
WHEN: November 30 to December 2, 2018
WHERE: Park Exotica, opposite Shilpgram, Udaipur, Rajasthan
This second edition of a three-day storytelling festival will bring
together a variety of traditions — from folk ensemble
to shamanic storytelling and dastangoi (a 13th-century Urdu
oral storytelling art form). Expect to hear artistes, authors
and journalists from various parts of India and the world
unveiling a whole range of storytelling practices.
MORE: www.facebook.com/UdaipurTales
24 November 2018
EXPLORE
EVENTS
WHAT: Hollywood Christmas Parade
WHEN: November 25, 2018
WHERE: Hollywood, Los Angeles, the USA
Gear up for a sparkling day where floats, equestrian riders,
classic cars, marching bands and, of course, celebrities feature in the
Hollywood Christmas Parade, which has been held on world-famous
Hollywood Boulevard since 1933.
MORE: www.thehollywoodchristmasparade.org/tickets-will-call/
WHAT: Harry Potter:
A History of Magic
WHEN: Till January 27, 2019
WHERE: New York Historical Society
Museum & Library, New York, The USA
Celebrating the 20th anniversary of
the US publication of Harry Potter and the
Sorcerer’s Stone, the British Library’s most
successful exhibition is now in New York,
exploring the traditions of folklore and
magic at the the heart of the Harry Potter stories.
The exhibition includes a new selection of objects, on view to
the public for the first time, all accompanied by a special audio tour
featuring the voice of actor Natalie Dormer.
MORE: www.harrypotter.nyhistory.org
PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY IMAGES (BOXING DAY TEST MATCH
WHAT: Boxing Day Test Match: Australia vs India
WHEN: December 26, 2018
WHERE: Melbourne Cricket Ground (MCG), Melbourne, Australia
Victoria will celebrate its close ties with India with a new community
festival held during the Australia versus India Boxing Day Test at the
MCG this year. The free festival will feature all the colours, sounds,
sights and flavours that are quintessentially India. Food vans and stalls
will offer up the best Indian cuisine, while fans will have a chance
to play some cricket, sing and dance and try their hand at other
cultural activities.
MORE: www.visitmelbourne.com/regions/melbourne/events

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
CHECK WHETHER
YOUR CABIN BAG
WILL FIT!
A new AUGMENTED REALITY
BAGGAGE MEASUREMENT TOOL
from KAYAK helps travellers recognise
whether or not their luggage will fit in the
overhead bins before arriving at the
airport. This is particularly useful since
different airlines have differing
dimensions for carry-on luggage.
To measure your carry-on luggage,
open a flight search in the KAYAK app
and click “new bag measurement tool”.
You will then be prompted to scan the
floor (this helps calibrate measurements)
and then to move your camera around
the bag to capture its size. From there,
KAYAK does the math for you. The tool
will alert you with the bag’s exact
measurements (length, width and
height), so you know whether you can
bring it on a flight as a carry-on, or if it
needs to be checked. The tool also
compares baggage fee policies for all
KAYAK-tracked airlines in one place.
That way, you know your bag will fit no
matter which airline you’re flying.
(available in the KAYAK app for all iOS
devices running iOS 11.3 and up).
EXPLORE
PLAN A TRIP
ROMANCING IN GREECE
It’s honeymoon-planning season, and you would do well
to site the beginning of your fairy-tale romance in the Greek
islands, a perfect destination bathed in sunlight all year long.
Explore the islands on a cruise, enjoy sun-kissed beaches,
stunning natural landscapes, cosmopolitan resorts and
traditional settlements or simply indulge in exquisite local dishes.
Make sure Santorini, Mykonos, Corfu, and the Aegean and
Ionian islands are on your itinerary (www.visitgreece.gr).
PHOTOGRAPHS: ANASTASIOS71/SHUTTERSTOCK (CORFU ISLANDS/GREECE), ANDREAS G. KARELIAS/SHUTTERSTOCK (HORSE DRAWN CARTS/GREECE)
SWISS SAILING
NEW BOOK
The lush Alpine settings, unspoilt
INTO THE WILD
nature and Swiss peacefulness,
combined with world-renowned Want to know the places where you can spot 300 of the world’s most
events, an elegant lifestyle and amazing creatures? Lonely Planet's THE A TO Z OF WILDLIFE
unlimited sports possibilities, WATCHING is the guide you need. This practical wildlife-watching
make ST MORITZ and the guide helps you know more about the creatures you will spot on your
ENGADIN one of the most travels across deserts, mountains, valleys, forests, safaris, seas, rivers
beautiful and inspiring valleys and elsewhere across the diverse natural world. Beautifully produced
in SWITZERLAND. with stunning images, the book has descriptions of animals, birds and
The Maloja wind, the sun and insects and more, all which make it a treat for wildlife enthusiasts.
a crystal-clear mountain lake Authored by experts who are conservationists and wildlife experts, this
make the perfect combination for is a must-have for travel bugs who are fascinated by all creatures, great
an exclusive sailing adventure and small (available at most bookstores and online stores; ` 2,283).
– one of six exciting outdoor
adventures that guests can enjoy
as a complimentary add-on
during their stay this summer. The
sailing turn with expert
instructions from
a skipper takes guests through
over the glittering water on Lake
St. Moritz every Friday. The lake
is set at
an elevation of 1,822m above
sea level, and, next to the
spectacular mountain
panorama, it offers perfect wind
conditions and wind speeds
ranging from three to six
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26 November 2018
 J
O
The Mar de Cortés
on the Mexican coast
makes for a pretty idyllic
holiday location, but

U
what’s it like to move
there from the other side
of the world?

R
N
A
L
TALES
FROM
THE
ROAD
PHOTOGRAPH: ROMANA LILIC
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Coming Back to Kaikoura

Krishna Prabakar T dusts off beautiful photographs
of the coastal town in New Zealand
@krishnaprabakar

Two years ago, a devastating earthquake hit Kaikoura in South Island.

I had visited less than a month earlier. Now Kaikoura has almost completely
recovered from its ordeal, and I can, once again, look at these photographs,
without a pang of nostalgia for what might have been lost
PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY
JOURNAL
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MY INTRODUCTION TO
Kaikoura’s brilliant landscape came
at Fyffe Quay, from where the view
of the blue waters of the Pacific Ocean
with the snow-capped Kaikoura Ranges
beyond was almost overwhelming.
We grabbed a bite at the solitary
Kaikoura Seafood BBQ kiosk, washing
down the grilled crayfish it is famous for
with a selection of interesting beverages.
The weather was great and it seemed
we could not turn without being
presented with another great vista.
The sunrises from the Hapuku Lodge +
Tree Houses, where we were staying,
were nothing short of a dramatic
draping of the view in changing shades
of purple. Our luck did not hold enough
to allow us to spot whales on our flight
with Wings over Whales Kaikoura,
nor penguins off Ohau Point Lookout,
but we were rewarded in seals!
The weather was warm and the
New Zealand fur seals were out
sunbathing (pictured previous pages).
Languorous and lumbering, they
were fascinating to watch, like grey,
water-filled balloons. The pups glowed
golden; their liquid eyes following us
even while they never raised their heads.

30 November 2018
JOURNAL
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Travel Fails
When you’re alone in a foreign land,
your happy journey of discovery can turn sour
alarmingly fast, as Lonely Planet staff have
found – but sometimes, with a bit of luck,
the moment can become a golden one

BLUE & BAGLESS my bag – pulled away. I chased it, but

IN MOZAMBIQUE
Matt Phillips
Destination editor for
Sub-Saharan Africa
@go2mattphillips
I had just crossed from Malawi into
Mozambique and was feeling somewhat
disoriented when I attempted to change some
currency with a local black-market dealer.
Moments later, just after I had placed my bag
on the back of a flatbed truck that I was about
to ride east for more than a hundred miles,
I realised that I had been fleeced out of $20.
I quickly tracked down the dealer and, as we
had a polite disagreement, the truck – and
the driver didn’t stop.
Dejected, I sat on the curb and wondered
what more could go wrong. Miraculously, the
truck returned with my bag 15 minutes later.
Turns out, the driver was just patrolling for more
passengers! Elated, I hopped onto the truck’s A ROCKY TRIP reaction was not to brace
flatbed. My relief must have been obvious to the DOWN THE myself, but to save my
other passengers who, sensing my stressful day, camera, because I didn’t want
went above and beyond to lift my spirits.
RIVER to lose any of my precious
As we trundled toward the coast with arms footage! I tried to lift myself
locked and legs dangling over the sides of the up, but I fell again. By now,
truck, they offered me sugarcane, along with my foot had swollen to the size
a vital lesson on how to correctly chew it, and, of an ‘unstable rock’. It goes
when we stopped at a roadside stall for roast without saying that I was
chicken, a fellow passenger paid for my meal. in a world of pain. This series
From feeling exploited to feeling like part of of unfortunate events would
the family, it was quite a day. Since then, Aishwarya Menon make any sane person bid the
the generosity and hospitality of African Travel Researcher, group farewell and head
people has never ceased to amaze me. Lonely Planet back to basecamp, but I was
Magazine India determined to wobble on.
@theblurryfiles I did manage to complete
the trek, and let’s say that the
A few years back, I was photographs and swollen foot
trekking in the Himalayas, were worth it.
”As we had
where I met many travellers
a polite with exciting stories of their ”I stepped
own. On the fourth day of the
disagreement, trek, we passed a crystal-clear on a rather
stream. Excitement got the
the truck – and better of me and I went to fill unstable rock
my bottle. I decided to test
my bag – pulled my luck and venture further
(which I later
away. in.While I continued my little realised was
water-filling escapade, I still
I chased it, but had my camera on me. a hollow turtle
ILLUSTRATIONS: FERRAN CAPO

As I moved towards the centre

the driver didn’t of the stream, I stepped on shell) and
a rather unstable rock (which
stop” I later realised was a hollow immediately lost
turtle shell), and immediately
lost my footing. My initial
my footing”

32 November 2018
 JOURNAL
The
Spookiest
Thing
Happened…
From haunted palaces to creepy
homestays, Lonely Planet Magazine
India readers tell us about the spookiest
thing that happened to them while
they were out exploring the world
I was 17 when I travelled to Jaipur for a modelling assignment.
The shoot was at a palace, where we would be staying as well.
We were 15 of us, including four models, the hair and makeup team,
and other technical guys. I was so excited, as it was my first time visiting
a palace, let alone staying in one. The palace was stunning,
with rooms so large, it took us two whole minutes to walk to
the attached bathrooms! So, we decided to share rooms instead and
made arrangements accordingly. After bingeing on some delicious
Rajasthani food, everyone gathered in our room for a chat, including
the palace caretaker. Over the course of the evening, our conversation
progressed to scary incidents. The caretaker casually mentioned that the
palace was haunted, but we laughed, assuming that he was just
adding to the drama. Suddenly, the generators went off and we heard
a man scream. The men ran outside to see what happened.
When they returned, we found out that
the driver from the generator
truck had been hoisted up from
his seat and dropped on the floor
and the generator had gone
off on its own.
The men tried to pacify us by saying that the driver was drunk
and hallucinating, but fear had already seeped in. We decided it was
best to just go to bed. I got into my cot and covered myself from head to
toe. In the middle of the night, I felt my quilt sliding off me, as if someone
was pulling it from the other end. I got up immediately to see who was
messing with me, but everyone was fast asleep. The distance between
our beds was rather large, so there was no way anyone could reach
me without getting out of their bed and walking over to mine.I quickly
pulled my quilt and covered myself from head to toe, while pretending
to sleep. Someone tried to pull my quilt again, but this time I held it tightly
and prayed. That night, I didn't sleep at all. Later in the morning,
we found out that we all had the same spooky encounter!
The un-peaceful palace by Reena Rawat
Last month, two friends and I went on a trip to Nepal. We opted
for a quaint, minimalistic homestay in Kathmandu’s Lazimpat area.
The homestay ended up being a bit of a fixer-upper, but we took
it upon ourselves to make it little nicer – after all, we were celebrating
my birthday. As we went about cleaning the house, we began to find
rather odd objects, one stranger than the other. Black dolls, weird-looking statues,
a locked trunk, tied strings that resembled hair, and broken crockery in every
drawer. Since a Japanese man owned the place, we assumed that maybe this
was associated with his culture and gave the place the benefit of the doubt. While
we were trying to figure out what was going on, we smelled a gas leak. We called
our host immediately, and told him about the situation. He came to the house and
assured us that there was nothing to worry about and everything was okay.
We concluded that maybe we were just overthinking and decided to step
out for a quiet birthday dinner. After a good meal, we were ready to call it
a day. Little did we know what was in store for us. As soon as we set foot in
the house, we knew the place was haunted.
ALL THE SWITCHES IN THE LIVING AREA WERE
TURNED OFF, EXCEPT FOR THE LIGHT SWITCH.
YET SOMEHOW, THE FAN, WHICH WAS A TABLE
FAN MOUNTED ON THE WALL, KEPT OSCILLATING,
EVEN THOUGH THE BLADES WERE STATIONARY.
THERE WAS ABSOLUTELY NO DRAFT OR BREEZE,
YET THE FAN KEPT MOVING.
No matter how hard we tried, we couldn't come up with a logical explanation.
We frantically called our host multiple times, but he didn't answer. We made
it through the night, but we couldn’t shake off the house’s eerie aura. We called
our host the next morning, but there was still no answer. We figured we’d just
talk to him while checking out, but he didn’t show up to collect the keys. We tried
calling him one last time and, to our relief, someone answered. When we asked
for our host, the person on the line said that they didn’t know anyone by that
name and hung up. We locked the house and left as fast as we would.
The haunted homestay by Khushboo Sikawat
Two years ago, I went on a solo trip to Gwalior. Since the place is known for its
beautiful architecture, I decided to stay at a haveli, which has been converted
into a homestay. While the haveli was small with just two floors, it had a lovely
old-world charm. There were no guests on the second floor where my room was
located and I figured I could use the silence to relax. After dinner, I went up
to my room, ready to retire for the day. I fell asleep almost instantly, thanks
to the previously mentioned silence and the rather comfy bed. I was woken up
by a whistling sound that seemed to be coming from outside. It continued for
a few minutes, before fading away completely. Although I was slightly spooked,
I brushed it off and went back to bed, only to be woken up by the sound of pots
clanking. This truly struck me as odd, because the kitchen was located on COMPILED BY RORY GOULDING. PHOTOGRAPH: MARK READ
the ground floor and I was the only guest on the second floor. I tried to convince
myself that it must’ve been some of the first-floor guests, until I heard the
clanking again. This time I was convinced it came from a room nearby,
if not from right outside my door. I switched on the table lamp and went back to
bed, visibly confused and a bit shaken. The next morning, I asked the
caretaker about the whistling and the noise. He said he had heard the
whistling too, and it was probably a local passing by. But, when it came to the
clanking, he brushed it off almost instantly, insisting that it was my
imagination. The bags under my eyes said otherwise!
The wake-up call by Rohan Kulkarni
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JOURNAL

Postcards
Your travel photos and
the stories behind them

LIGHT UP THE NIGHT

Luang Prabang, Laos
Watching monks celebrate Khao Phansa
is truly magical. The festival marks the end
of the monsoon season, which lasts for
three months. During this period, monks
are not permitted to travel and must focus
entirely on meditation. Often referred to
as “Buddhist Lent” or the “Rains Retreat”,
this tradition corresponds with a three-
month lunar cycle, when the region
experiences heavy rains and farmers sow
their crops. During this period, locals tend
to follow a more ascetic lifestyle by giving
up meat, tobacco and alcohol. They also
spend more time doing charity work and
visit local temples to meditate.

Sirsendu Gayen
is a professor based
in Kolkata, India.

COMPILED BY RORY GOULDING. PHOTOGRAPH: MARK READ

PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY
JOURNAL
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MONKEY
BUSINESS
Ethiopia, Africa
Geladas are indigenous to the
highlands of northern Ethiopia.
These primates are so fearless,
they often fall asleep on the
dangerous cliff-side ledges
of mountains. Seeing these
animals was definitely one
of the highlights of my trip.
I was able to sit among them
and get some great shots,
while they carried on with
their daily routine, unbothered
by my presence.

Sushmitha
Reddy is a wildlife
photographer from
Bangalore, India.

36 November 2018
 JOURNAL: POSTCARDS

COLOUR
OF SILENCE
Lucknow,
Uttar Pradesh
This photo was taken in
Lucknow, at the front gate
of the Chhota Imambara.
I was staying in India for
a month, working for Pollinate
Energy, a social enterprise
whose aim is to bring life-
changing products to India’s
most vulnerable. We visited
the monument on a weekday,
which is why the scene is so
quiet and still.

Adam Corrie
is a student
from Melbourne,
Australia.

UP IN FLAMES
Bali, Indonesia
The island of Bali is dotted
with seaside temples, many
of which are renowned for their
“Kecak” dances. I took this
photo at the Uluwatu temple
in South Bali. While I had read
about the influence of Indian
culture here (Indonesia itself
translates to “Islands of India”),
I was intrigued to see the Kecak
rendition of the Ramayana.
The Indian epics are an
important part of Balinese
folklore and are extensively
portrayed in local dances,
masks and shadow puppets.
This photo depicts Hanuman,
the monkey god, setting Lanka
on fire.

Ayan Adak
is a consultant by
profession and loves
photography.
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Enjoying all things blue at Pangong Tso Solitude at The National Handicrafts Ruffling feathers at Taman Safari,
in Ladakh, India and Handlooms Museum, New Delhi, India in Indonesia
@peenaz_rahman @clickanddesign @premkan

PHOTO CHALLENGE

Curve
Each month, we set a new
challenge for our Instagram
followers – to submit photos
on a specific travel theme.
Here we reveal the winning
images for ‘curve’
@lonelyplanetmagazineindia

Peace post the storm in Indore, India Conquering the Shyok Valley in Ladakh,
@exposurize India
@shikharkhatri

Camels rest at the Pushkar Mela Exploring the corridors of the Sheikh Zayed The Longsheng Rice Terraces
in Rajasthan, India Mosque in Abu Dhabi outside Guilin in China
@visionbyumang @iyengarrukmani @thejourneynotes
JOURNAL

Model
Traveller
Model and actor Elena
Fernandes has Indo-Peruvian
roots, and her wanderlust
shows in her travels

I’m a lone traveller, but that’s because

of the industry I am in. I always have a suitcase
packed and ready to go at a moment’s notice.
Still, I love it when my best friend joins me,
simply because it’s easier for someone else
to take a picture of you in front of a landmark
than the standard selfie, hahaha!

I’ve been fortunate to work in so many

different cities in India and at some incredible
locations, so I’d say India is the most interesting
place I’ve explored on work. I love discovering
the hidden gems of the country.

There’s no place I don’t particularly want to

go back to. I’m never too keen on outdoor shoot
locations where there are mosquitoes and bugs.
I’m super allergic to mosquito bites; I just flare up,
so any jungle location is out of the question.

I’d go back any time to Bali. That’s where

my career started. My first shoot was on location
in Bali and everything snowballed from there,
first with back-to-back shoots, then with film.

I love Cape Town too, because that’s where

I did the Kingfisher calendar for the first time.
Where I had a chance to swim with great white
sharks – it was a childhood dream come true.
I want to go back and do that again.

I bring back a souvenir from each place

I visit; I love collecting different pieces that
reflect the culture of the city or country I’ve been to.
Usually it’s a cat ornament, a representation
of the cat from that place. I also bring back a lot
of skulls. Weird, I know, but there’s something
about decorative skulls that I am drawn to.
And I always bring back a fridge magnet for
my mum, because she always asks for one.

When you travel, enjoy your surroundings

and who you’re with. Use an old-school camera
so that you can get the images printed and put
them in an album like your parents did when
you were a kid. It’s important to have fun.
You don’t need to Instagram everything!
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MY TRIP

Moving to Mexico
Slovenian Romana Lilic moved to the other side
of the world to be with her boyfriend; here’s how
she got on in her new home
@romanalilic

Romana, pictured by her boyfriend

Mariano at Rosas y Xocolate,
a boutique hotel in Mérida
 JOURNAL

ONLY NOW DO I REALISE WHAT A BIG THING

it was to move 10,000 km across the world from my home in Slovenia to be
with my boyfriend in Mexico. I met Mariano at a friend’s party in Ljubliana,
and we ended up spending a day together, drinking coffee by the river
and sharing stories about places we had visited. We didn’t believe
in long-distance relationships, so I decided to move to be with him in Baja
California Sur. I didn’t know what to expect when I arrived here, and soon
realised that everything was different from home. At first, the thing that affected
me most was the weather. In Slovenia, we have four seasons; in Baja, we
have 350 days of sunshine, and the first year I was not aware of the passing
of seasons, as every day felt like a sunny day in July. I realised that the seasons
are not measured by the weather but by wildlife: from August to November,
we have the turtle season; from November to April, it’s whale season.
The other big difference was that daily routines for me, like going to the bank,
and finding spices for cooking, became daunting tasks in a new country
with a different language. While friends think I must be at the beach every
day, swimming, sunbathing and enjoying colourful drinks, I actually have
to work every day as a photographer and communications consultant.
It’s a pleasure to see the ocean from my car on the way to work though!
There are so many things that I love about Mexico, as these photos, taken
in Baja, Oaxaca and the Yucatán, show. I love the colours, the culture and
the architecture. I love the desert, the jungle and the sea. I love that when we
go to our favourite beach, we always come across a family of wild donkeys
(that’s why we keep carrots and apples with us), and that there are still places
where there is no phone signal. Mexico has 31 states and it’s my dream
that I will visit them all one day with Mariano. Eleven years after meeting
in Ljubliana, we’re still together and sharing stories.
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IN SEARCH OF THE PERFECT

Clam
Chowder COMPILED BY RORY GOULDING. PHOTOGRAPH: MARK READ

From colonial fishing ships

to presidential inaugurations,
we trace the origins of Boston’s
signature dish and go on a quest
for a bowl of the city’s best
Words KEVIN SLANE @kslane
Photos ADAM DETOUR @adamdetour

42 November 2018

WHEN IT COMES TO IDENTIFYING
what goes into the ideal bowl of clam
chowder, personal preferences vary,
but one good historical reference point
comes from Herman Melville’s 1851
classic novel, Moby-Dick, whose
protagonist Ishmael visits a fictional
chowder establishment on the island of
Nantucket, off the coast of Massachusetts.
“Oh, sweet friends! Hearken to me.
It was made of small juicy clams, scarcely
bigger than hazel nuts, mixed with pounded
ship biscuit, and salted pork cut up into
little flakes; the whole enriched with butter,
and plentifully seasoned with pepper
and salt.”
Toss some potatoes and onions into
Melville’s ancient recipe and substitute
cream for butter and you’ve got the makings
of a fine New England clam chowder.
JOU R NAL
1. Lunchtime at Atlantic
Fish Co.
2. A cup of chowder
at Legal Seafood.
Facing Page: A full seafood
spread at Row 34
Recently given a ”Whenever
spot on the National
Register of Historic you’re
Places, the pier opened
in 1914 and became the
nation’s leading port around
by 1920. Today, it still
processes thousands a cup or
of pounds of seafood,
including some of bowl
the clams that go
into the city’s chowder.
of chowder,
Beyond a 360° metallic
1 bar, the cooks are hard
at work in the open it’s like
kitchen. The smell
The signature dish of the region, clam of fried fish wafts home’’
chowder has been served at presidential over a busy
inaugurations since 1981, barring the last lunchtime crowd.
one, and is ladled out by the tonne every Sitting across from me is executive
year to tourists and locals alike. chef Rich Vellante, who has learned a thing
To learn more, I’m in Boston, a city or two about the history of chowder during
steeped in colonial history that hopefully his 21 years at the restaurant. Vellante tells
holds answers to my questions about me that New England clam chowder’s origins
chowder’s centuries-old origins. can be traced back to colonial times, when
As I cross a bridge over Boston Harbor, fishermen from England, France and Nova
I pass the Tea Party Ships and Museum, Scotia went in search of fortune on the high
a tribute to the colonists who dumped seas. The dish’s origin wasn’t necessarily
British tea into the harbour and helped a country extending its culinary footprint.
ignite the American War of Independence. Rather, it was born of necessity. Onions,
Looming behind it on the horizon are potatoes and salt pork were all kept on board,
tall glass buildings, a mixture of luxury while clams and milk were plentiful on shore.
apartments and offices that have sprung With a lack of refrigeration, the best choice
up in the past decade. for sailors was to throw everything into
I settle into a seat at Legal Sea Foods a big pot and make a stew.
with a perfect view of the Boston Fish Pier. For Vellante, who grew up 20 minutes
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north of Boston and

”Salty, has lived in the area
most of his life, the
fishy, dairy, dish evokes nostalgic
memories of New
England's seafood
potatoes,
past. “For me, the
combination of the
onions, briny, sweet clams,
the richness, the
all of sweetness of the
cream, the salt pork,
those things. is something that’s
just so nurturing,”
he says. “Whenever
That’s where you’re around a cup
or bowl of chowder,
you have it’s like home.”
Here, chowder
to start’’ is served in a white 1 2
ceramic bowl with a
bag of oyster crackers 1. Chowder
on the side. A throwback to the hardtack from Red’s Best
crackers used to thicken the broth in colonial 2. Outside
Quincy Market
times, oyster crackers are closest to cream
crackers in taste and nearly every restaurant 3. Row 34 chef
Jeremy Sewall
that serves chowder will have them.
4. Onions at
The clams are chewy and sweet, but
Stillman’s Farm
not saccharine, and the potatoes offer
a deliciously starchy balance in texture.
There’s an aromatic, herbal flavour I can’t
quite put my finger on, but Vellante is
understandably protective of the chowder’s
precise recipe, a secret that fewer than
a handful of people know.
“It’s like the Coca-Cola recipe,” he says.
“It’s our recipe, one that we love, so there
are a few things we don’t share about it.”
Later that day, I visit Quincy Market,
a historic building in the heart of downtown,
where chowders are plentiful. Opened in 1826 4
3
as a meat and produce market, it now houses
around 30 culinary merchants separated
by white columns in Greek Revival
architectural style. As I walk through the don’t eat bacon.” with the dish, but the quest for the “perfect”
colonnade, workers at kiosks that serve Of the trio of chowders I sample at chowder eludes me. I begin to feel like
pizza (Regina Pizzeria), hot dogs (Dog House) Quincy Market, theirs is the best: a hearty Goldilocks, finding imprecise flaws in every
and chocolate chip cookies (The Boston chowder that doesn’t cross the line into steaming bowl. This chowder is too thick.
Chipyard) hawk samples or call out to an overwhelming sauce-like thickness This one is too thin. This one is too grainy.
potential customers among the tourist-heavy that makes you painfully aware of how This one has clams that are too chewy.
crowd. It feels a bit like a shopping mall, much double cream goes into every bowl. During a fact-finding mission to Boston
except for the centuries’ old architecture. Over the next two days, I try a bevy Public Market, I get a tip from Ryan Rasys,
Despite the historic setting, the restaurants of chowders. At Atlantic Fish Co, I sit in a sales manager at Red’s Best, a seafood
here are thoroughly modern in their catering. a window seat surrounded by model ships, retailer and wholesaler. Row 34, another
At Fisherman’s Net, manager George trying to figure out how best to eat the bread Seaport spot I missed earlier in the weekend,
Maherakis, who runs the stand with his bowl it’s served in. At the crowded Yankee is known for having some of the best oysters
father, Kostas, tells me that they serve the Lobster Co, I pair my chowder with a big in the region. After tasting some of the chowder
only gluten-free chowder at Quincy Market. basket of fries, as an arriving woman tells from Red’s Best (a lighter broth with a noticeable
They don’t use pork either. “The authentic, her three friends she is “literally obsessed” garlic kick), I’m inclined to trust Ryan’s taste.
100 percent New England way would be with with the restaurant’s chowder, while not-so- With my journey’s end in sight, I head out,
pork,” George admits, “but all the restaurants subtly eyeing mine. ready to cross the harbour one more time.
in here try not to use it, because a lot of people Almost every spot I visit does a decent job It’s brunch hour at Row 34, and groups

44 November 2018
 JOURNAL
2 3
of twenty somethings are chattering at
the tables and bars. I’m greeted at the door
by owner/chef Jeremy Sewall, who leads
me to a quiet corner of the restaurant.
When asked what makes a great dish,
Sewall says, “To make a really good chowder,
you have to stick to the core values of what
chowder is. Salty, fishy, dairy, potatoes,
onions, all of those things. That’s where
you have to start and you can’t go too far
away from that.”
When I dig into Row 34’s chowder, I know
I’ve finally found my chowder nirvana.
Filled with just the right number of clams,
it has a few accents I haven’t encountered
elsewhere. Row 34’s chowder comes with
a homemade cracker that crumbles nicely,
but doesn’t dissolve into nothingness.
1. Dining area The potatoes are red instead of white,
at Boston Public with the skin still on them. The broth
Market is a little less heavy, possibly because the
2. A bread bowl restaurant uses half cream and half milk,
of chowder from
instead of double cream. Per Sewall’s
Fisherman’s Net
recommendation, I pop in a few dabs
3. Fresh seafood
from Red’s Best of hot sauce, which adds a subtle but
unmistakable heat.
When Ishmael and Queequeg finish their
chowder-filled meal in Moby-Dick and ready
themselves for bed, an innkeeper asks them
whether they prefer cod or clam chowder
for breakfast the next day. “Both,” answers
Ishmael, “and let’s have a couple of smoked
herring by way of variety.”
Leaning back to digest the meal,
I’m inclined to think Melville was on
to something.
Try it at home
Cook 4 slices of bacon
(diced) in a Dutch oven over
medium-high heat until fat
has rendered. Remove the
bacon from pan and add
500g diced onion and
340g chopped celery to
the bacon drippings.
Cook for 5 minutes or until
vegetables are tender.
Stir in 375ml water and
725g peeled, cubed
potatoes. Season with salt
and pepper. Boil uncovered
for 15 minutes or until potatoes
are tender.
Pour in 700ml single
cream and add 3 tbsps of
butter. Drain 2 (283g)
cans of clams, reserving the
liquid. Add the clams and half
the clam liquid into the soup,
cook for five minutes, but do
not boil. Sprinkle with the
bacon and serve with crackers.
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46 November 2018
 Last-minute winter plans
in Central Thailand, Armenia,
Jordan and South Korea
F
bonus: Follow the magical
sound of gajalu to the humble
town of Kuchipudi, E
A
Andhra Pradesh

T
U
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S
PHOTOGRAPH: MARINA PISSAROVA / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
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After the
Journey among snowy mountains and ancient monasteries in
the little-visited country of Armenia, to hear stories of Noah’s ark
and those troubled souls who have searched for it in vain
Words OLIVER SMITH @OliSmithTravel l Photographs JUSTIN FOULKES @justinfoulkes

48 November 2018
 LAST-MINUTE WINTER CAMBODIA
The monastery of Khor Virap
with Ararat in the distance.
The closed Turkish-Armenian border
runs a few hundred metres
beyond the monastery

f lood
PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY
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“When it is visible, Ararat is hypnotic in its vastness.
It is a key to understanding this ancient country”
A
FTER 150 DAYS AFLOAT ON THE
water, Noah, his family and all
the animals heard a loud crunch
as the ark hit dry land. They had
arrived on a little island – which,
as the waters receded, turned out not to be
an island at all, but the tip of an immense
mountain. The mountain was called Ararat,
and it towered high over a rocky landscape.
After some months, the world was dry
again, and Noah’s family and animals
descended (many seizing the opportunity
to trot off to warmer and/or more exotic parts).
But legend tells that Noah’s great-grandson,
Hayk, stayed put in this stony land,
and founded Armenia. It would become
the first Christian nation on Earth.
After 4,500 years, the biblical deluge has
turned to a light drizzle as my plane lands
in Yerevan, the Armenian capital, but the
importance of Ararat has not been forgotten.
At the border control, a guard pauses from
playing Solitaire on his phone to ink my
passport with an Ararat-shaped stamp.
Travelling into Yerevan among Soviet-era
tower blocks, the taxi passes the stadium of
FC Ararat (the Man United of Armenia), and
the Ararat Cognac factory. Among the wide
boulevards of the city centre are the Ararat
Restaurant and the Ararat Hotel – where,
according to TripAdvisor, some rooms smell of
cigarettes (possibly Ararat brand cigarettes).
In the cafés around the Opera House, you can
50 November 2018
1 2
use Ararat-adorned banknotes from the
ATM outside AraratBank to buy Ararat Beer
and Ararat Wine, excessive consumption
of which may mean you’re admitted to Ararat
Medical Centre. And close by is the clock tower
of Government House, which bears the
national crest: Ararat etched in stone.
A range of modest-sized peaks surrounds
Yerevan, and on cloudy days you might spend
some hours working out which one is Ararat.
But this is a mistake: seeing the real mountain
entails tilting your head a little higher and
squinting at the sky until a patch of brilliant
whiteness appears – not clouds, but a glimpse
of an immense snow-capped summit, wildly
out of proportion to everything else in view.
On days when it is visible, Ararat is hypnotic
in its vastness: taller than any peak in the
Alps and most other things this side of
the Himalayas.
Ararat stalks visitors to Yerevan: lingering
among the laundry lines, playing peek-a-boo
behind shopping malls. For millions of
Armenians, it is the first thing they see
when they open their curtains in the morning,
and the last before they go to bed. It is a key
to understanding this ancient country.
From Yerevan, I head eastwards beneath
the lower slopes of Ararat and up into a
wind-scoured plateau. The road winds among
craggy escarpments and extinct volcanoes.
On one mountain pass stands a 14th-century
caravanserai where merchants would have
1. The monastery of Noravank
dates from the 12th century,
and is said to have once housed
a piece of the True Cross
2. A drover on a country road in
Lori Province, northern Armenia
rested on journeys between Samarkand
and Istanbul. Military towers from Soviet
times – windows smashed and satellite
dishes broken – still rise like lighthouses
over meadows of swaying grass.
Though an independent country since 1991,
Armenia has always been a frontier territory:
a small nation squished between the
superpowers of Persia, Russia and Turkey.
Armenia stands on the boundary of Christian
and Muslim worlds, the border of the former
USSR and the West, and the junction of three
tectonic plates too.
Nothing has stood firm through seismic
tremors and tides of invaders like the
monasteries of the Armenian Apostolic
Church – counted among the most ancient
Christian structures on Earth.
“Armenians build beautiful churches
because we are beautiful people,” insists
Father Sahak Martirosyan. He is the priest
of one of the most exquisite monasteries,
Noravank, set in a canyon an hour’s drive
from Yerevan. “Our architects used stones
as their words: they were expressing their
innermost feelings with their designs.”
Father Sahak shows me round the
monastery, peeking into churches blackened
by years of burning incense, where vines reach
through the windows. Pulling back the sleeve
of his robe, he taps at his iPhone to show me
his pictures of Noravank through the seasons:
winter days of deep snowfall when no
PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY LAST-MINUTE WINTER ARMENIA

Father Sahak Martirosyan

standing inside the
church of Surp Karapet
at Noravank monastery
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“Ararat means rebirth, for this is

where mankind took its first steps
on Earth after the f lood”
visitors came; summer evenings walking the
forests nearby. He comes to a picture of Ararat
taken from a viewpoint not far away, the
mountain rising above a bank of cloud, giving
the impression it had detached itself from
Earth and was hovering weightless in the sky.
“Ararat is the symbol of Armenia,” says
Father Sahak. “It means rebirth, for this is
where mankind took its first steps on Earth
1 after the flood.” I ask him if he believes the Ark
is still hidden on Ararat, but he smiles and
2 does not answer. In its mother cathedral at
Echmiadzin, the Armenian Apostolic Church
keeps what is said to be a fragment of Noah’s
Ark, found on the mountain by a 4th-century
saint, propped on a Plexiglass stand next to
a claimed piece of the True Cross. Countless
others have set out for the mountain looking
for the Ark without success: maverick priests,
NASA astronauts, TV crews. Most recently
came the case of Donald MacKenzie,
a part-time builder from the Outer Hebrides
obsessed with finding the Ark. Telling no one
where he was going, he climbed Ararat
carrying little more than a tent, a Bible and
century. Historians estimate that up to 1.2
million Armenians were killed by Ottoman
armies during the turmoil of the First World
War. Millennia-old Armenian communities
in the lands west of Ararat – in present-day
Turkey – were wiped out by death marches,
mass burnings and by forcibly capsizing
boats out at sea. When plotting the
extermination of ethnic Poles, Hitler was
reputed to have said, “Who speaks today
of the annihilation of the Armenians?”
The question of the genocide is part
of everyday Armenian life, mostly because
it is still unresolved. The Ottoman Empire’s
successor state, Turkey, refuses to apologise
for the killings, saying that the deaths were
a result of war and not systematic ethnic
cleansing. It is for this reason that Turkey
and Armenia remain hostile neighbours,
and that the border remains closed. It is also
for this reason that thousands of pilgrims
come to Khor Virap every year to peer over
the impassable frontier as if it were a coastal
cliff – and to look up the mountain, which
is a symbol of everything that has been lost.

1. Symbolic doves are kept
at Khor Virap monastery
2. Echmiadzin Cathedral claims
to display a piece of Noah’s Ark
3. Looking over the rooftops
of Yerevan
a small telescope. Donald disappeared, last
seen in September 2010 high on the mountain,
straying from the main path soon before
a storm blew in.
Father Sahak studies the picture of Ararat
until the screen dims, and he pockets his
phone with a melancholy sigh. It is a sound
you hear in Armenia whenever the name
of Ararat is spoken. Sometimes the sigh takes
the form of a faintly-audible tut. Sometimes
3 it is a long, sorrowful gust of breath.
It is the sigh that tells you the symbol
of Armenia is not in Armenia at all. It is a few
kilometres over a closed border, in Turkey.
The closest most Armenians come to Ararat
is Khor Virap: another monastery, set among
the watchtowers marking the Armenian-
Turkish border. It stands on a rocky bluff
from which you can hear the call to prayer
drifting across no man’s land when the wind
blows east.
Scored into the coarse volcanic rock of
the monastery are the names of countless
pilgrims who have visited here – including
some carved by weak hands precisely one
century ago. These particular pilgrims
were also refugees, escaping from what many
believe was the first genocide of the 20th
T
HERE IS NO COASTLINE
in Armenia, nor is there easy
access to the sea. As well
as a closed border with Turkey
to the west, the boundary
with neighbouring Azerbaijan is also shut
following a war in the 1990s. It means that
almost 90% of its land frontiers are blocked:
despite being a landlocked country, some say
Armenia is as isolated as a Pacific island.
The place locals head for when any
claustrophobia sets in is Lake Sevan, known
to some as the “Armenian Ocean” – one
of the highest freshwater lakes in the world.
Seen on a clear day, it is a picture of serenity:
snowy ranges mirrored in the still waters of
the lake, their crisp reflections sliced in two by
little fishing boats out on their morning
rounds. Along the shore are resorts from
Soviet times, when comrades from Estonia or
Siberia came on holiday here. They swam out
from pebbly beaches and composed poems to
the motherland, watching cloud formations
blow over from the Caspian Sea.
And, in a meadow beside the northern
shore, is the strangest sight in all Armenia:
a mighty, sea-going boat, timbers weathered

52 November 2018
PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY LAST-MINUTE WINTER ARMENIA

The Armenian Genocide

Memorial
Father in Yerevan:
Sahak Martirosyan
the pinnacle
standing in the
inside the distance
represents
church the rebirth
of Surp Karapet
of Noravank
at the Armenian people
monastery
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“It is rather strange being the captain of a sea-going
ship in a landlocked country”
and bruised by Atlantic waves. Look closer,
and you might spot its owner: a man with
a silver-grey beard and steely-blue eyes, who
built this boat himself with no experience,
and who keeps it in a field of cows, 482km from
the nearest sea. But this isn’t a sign
of an impending deluge. It is one of the great
triumphs of 21st-century Armenia.
“Like me, Noah was an amateur boat
builder,” says Captain Karen Balayan,
sitting in the galley of his ship. “But Noah’s
boat was a box designed only to float:
mine was built to go somewhere!”
An electrical engineer who built model
yachts as a youngster, Captain Karen is
the president of the AYAS Nautical Research
Club: a group of friends who, in 1985, resolved
to build a full-sized medieval sailing ship from
scratch. The boat was to be called Cilicia and
would follow a 14th-century Armenian design,
from a time when Armenians had their own
Mediterranean coastline. Karen studied
documents in the British Library, soon finding
himself bribing foresters with vodka to get
the right kind of timbers. He and his crew
slept aboard the half-built boat during the
collapse of the Soviet Union (to make sure
no-one chopped it up for firewood), and,
in 2002, launched her on water for the first
time at Lake Sevan.
“It is rather strange being the captain of
a sea-going ship in a landlocked country,”
54 November 2018
1. Cilicia in a field next to Sevan.
The AYAS Nautical Research Club
also builds smaller historical vessels
2. Captain Karen Balayan sitting
in the galley of the Cilicia
1 2
says Karen. “Perhaps the sea has stayed in my
genetics since the days when Armenians
were seafarers. Building the boat and taking
it onto the ocean was my dream. If you follow
your path without deviating, you will achieve
your dreams.”
Sailing on Lake Sevan was a warm-up act
for a far greater odyssey. Standing in the
galley, Karen retraces his 2004 route on a faded
map torn from an Austrian Airlines in-flight
magazine. It started with Cilicia being wheeled
over the mountains to Georgia’s Black Sea
coast (to the confusion of traffic police). There
followed two years of adventures with a crew
of a dozen. They sailed among cargo ships
in the Bosphorus and gondolas in the Venetian
lagoon, under the battlements of Malta and
beneath the rock of Gibraltar, steering among
the dolphin pods of Biscay and beneath the
raised arms of Tower Bridge. Finally, they
returned from the Baltic to the Black Sea
by Russian rivers and canals, becoming the
first ever vessel to circumnavigate Europe – all
in a medieval boat registered in a landlocked
nation. Karen climbs up on deck to show me
the oak rudders – snapped in two during one
stormy night on the Black Sea, meaning the
crew had to steer using saucepans and buckets
to stop their ship capsizing.
“We were frightened. After a point, instinct
takes over, the fear disappears and all you feel
is the will to stay alive, to sail on.”
This Armenian impulse to travel is nothing
new. Armenians have settled in distant
corners of the world in a way only comparable
with Jews. There is a local joke that Armenians
have most likely settled on undiscovered
planets. It was an Armenian photographer
in London who took the defiant image of
Churchill that appears on the new £5 note;
an Armenian architect in Istanbul who
designed the dome on the Aya Sofya that
represents the vault of heaven itself. And it’s
also true the most Googled person in the world
is an American woman of Armenian descent:
Kim Kardashian. In diaspora communities
around the world – California to Kolkata,
Buenos Aires to Beirut – Armenian families
hang pictures of Ararat on their walls,
to remind them of a homeland they might
never have visited.
Karen shows me his favourite place on
the boat: the captain’s perch beside the stern.
From here, the cows are hidden beneath
the gunwales of the Cilicia, and Lake Sevan
seems to rise straight from the prow.
The distant leagues of the lake vanish into
the morning mist, and, for the briefest
moment, there is a sense that Karen might be
afloat on endless waters, sailing high above
the Earth on the boat that he built.
It is only a very brief moment, for it is soon
time to go back below deck. It has started
to rain again.
 LAST-MINUTE WINTER ARMENIA
PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY

A view south from

the Selim Pass in
southern Armenia

November 2018 55
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Essentials
BEST TIME TO VISIT
Armenia can be visited
year-round – September to
November is a good time
to go, with balmy weather
and autumn colours in the
forests around Dilijan.

GETTING THERE
& AROUND
FlyDubai, Air Arabia and
Qatar Airways frequently
fly to Yerevan in Armenia
with one layover (www.
flydubai.com; return fares start
from ` 30,990).
VISA
A single-entry Armenian visa MAP KEY
(valid upto 3 months) costs Debed Canyon
around ` 7,450. The Dilijan
application process takes
Khor Virap
at least three working days
(www.visahq.in). Lake Sevan
Noravank
EMBASSY ALERT
Tatev
Embassy of India,
Yerewan, Armenia: Yerevan
www.eoiyerewan.gov.in
CURRENCY PLAN YOUR ITINERARY

` 1 = 6.60 Armenian Dram
VEG OUT/ FANCY
A CURRY?
A tiny, hidden gem just
around the corner of
Teryan St, Karma whips up
some delicious Indian curries
and naan for those craving
food of the homeland!
(00-374-105-89-218; 65c
Teryan, Yerevan; chicken curry
from ` 450)
FURTHER INFO
1
Start in the capital,
Yerevan – which,
while not exactly
conventionally beautiful, is an
energetic city with café-lined
streets and sublime views
of Ararat. On the edge of
the city is Tsitsernakaberd
– the Armenian Genocide
Memorial and Museum,
which tells the tragic story
A service at Tatev the most spectacularly located
monastery in of all Armenian monasteries,
southern Armenia teetering over a forested gorge.
Get there on a cable car, which
travels four kilometres from the
village of Halidzor (www.tatever.
am; return ` 585). Stay at the
Mina Hotel in Goris, which
has an excellent restaurant
(www.hotel-mina.am;
from ` 3,400).

For more, see Lonely Planet’s
Georgia, Armenia and
Azerbaijan guide (` 1,150).
Philip Marsden’s The Crossing
Place (` 975) is an intriguing
account of the author’s travels
among the diaspora and in
Armenia itself.
3
of the Armenian people in
the 20th century, and has From Goris, it’s a
exhibits in English (www. four-hour drive north
genocide-museum.am; entry along the lofty Selim Pass
free). Yerevan also makes an to Lake Sevan. En route, stop
easy base for day trips to the to stretch your legs at Orbelian’s
monasteries and landscapes Caravanserai – a 14th-
of southern Armenia – it’s century lodge at the top of the
a 45-minute drive to Khor pass, with grand views over
Virap. The Royal Plaza barren mountains. The AYAS
hotel has comfortable rooms Nautical Research Club is
in the centre, close to the in the village of Artanish, on the
imposing Opera House (www. northern shore of the lake. They
royalplaza.am; from ` 5,850). sometimes organise regattas,

2
From Yerevan, it’s a two-hour drive to Noravank
Monastery – arrive later in the day to see sunset
illuminating the red cliffs around the complex.
From here, head southeast into Syunik province, where
a thin sliver of Armenian territory reaches down to the
Iranian border, with rugged, volcanic scenery flanking
the road. Close to the town of Goris is Tatev, arguably
and intend to launch Cilicia on Sevan soon – get in
touch to see if there’s anything planned (www.ayas.
am). Sevan is the biggest town on the eponymous
lake: a popular resort in Soviet times, it has a pleasant
waterfront busy with locals playing volleyball during
summer months. Close to town, Bohemian Resort
has simple, compact rooms by the shore
(www.bohemianresort.am; from ` 3,400).

56 November 2018
4 A few kilometres north of Sevan
is the picturesque town of Dilijan,
surrounded by steep slopes
forested with oaks and hornbeams.
At its heart is the slightly touristy
Dilijan Historic Centre, with
restored traditional stone and timber
buildings and a small tourist
information office. The popular
monasteries of Haghartsin and
Goshavank are nearby; for a real
adventure, however, go in search of
Matosavank – a 13th-century church
lost in the forests, partially buried
and semi-ruined. It’s about two
kilometres west of Dilijan. Ask at the
tourist information office for directions,
and be aware there are bears roaming
the woods. Dilijan Resort has
comfortable rooms in a monolithic,
Soviet-style building (www.hoteldilijan.
am; from ` 5,850).
5 A two-hour drive northwest from
Dilijan takes you to the striking
Debed Canyon. Standing on
the main route north into Georgia,
the canyon is also one of Armenia’s
industrial heartlands, with Soviet-era
railways, rusting cable cars and copper
mines with puffing chimneys spread
along its floor. Added to this eerie
industrial spectacle are the tumbledown
monasteries of Haghpat and Sanahin,
sited rather incongruously on the rim of
the canyon. Qefilyan Hotel sits just
below Haghpat, and has sweeping
views and an on-site restaurant serving
excellent Armenian barbecued meats
and traditional flatbread (www.
qefohotel.com; from ` 3,400).
From Debed it’s a three-hour drive
south to Yerevan’s Zvartnots ternational
Airport .
Morning mist in the valley
of the Araks River swirls
around Khor Virap
November 2018 57
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Follow in the wake of prophets and shepherds on the Jordan Trail – a new long-distance footpath
that traverses lost cities, parched wadis and some of the wildest quarters of the Middle East
Words OLIVER SMITH @OliSmithTravel | Photographs JUSTIN FOULKES @justinfoulkes

58 November 2018
 The trail passing rock
formations in Bedouin
country to the north of Petra

November 2018 59
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DAY 1 15 KM

Wadi Dana to
Wadi Feynan COASTING ALONG
THERE IS NO PART OF PLANET EARTH WORSE Jordan has one of
suited to hiking than the Middle East. Setting out for the smallest coastlines
a stroll one morning with a backpack and a sandwich, in the world, with
you are likely to run into checkpoints, barbed wire a 26-km shore beside
and people in uniform sternly telling you to turn the Red Sea. Originally,
around. Were Abraham to journey to Canaan in 2018, it was just eight km long
he’d have to cross two war zones and three areas where − a 1965 land swap
his standard travel insurance policy was invalid. with Saudi Arabia
Were Moses to lead the Flight from Egypt today, he’d meant it received a few
have spent the entire Book of Exodus twiddling his more miles of coast
thumbs in the queue as 600,000 Israelites passed in exchange for a vast
through multiple high-security borders. swathe of desert.
1
All of which makes the creation of the Jordan Trail
something miraculous. It is a new long-distance 1. A little owl peeps 2
footpath, spanning the length of the most peaceful out on Wadi Dana
country in the Middle East. It stretches 643km, from 2. Hiking guide Mohammed
the green orchards of the north to the meeting of red Al Homran prepares a pot
sands and the Red Sea in the south. It offers a rare taste of tea – an essential and
of hiking in a land with an illustrious history of ever-reliable companion
along the Jordan Trail
rambling: Old Testament prophets with crooked staffs,
barefooted pilgrims on journeys to Mecca. And also
Mohammed Al Homran, my softly-spoken guide, who
recently made history as part of the first team to walk
the length of the Jordan Trail. He never leaves home
without a teapot and a flute in his backpack.
“Walking is my life,” he says, skipping over the
boulders of Wadi Dana in the morning sunshine.
“Some people even tell me my feet move in my sleep.”
Sporting a pair of neon-yellow trainers and a black
keffiyeh, Mohammed will guide me on a 80-km stretch
of the Jordan Trail, from the mountaintop village
of Dana south to the ancient city of Petra. He grew up
in Madaba, a town close to Mount Nebo, from whose
summit Moses sighted the Promised Land in the Book
of Deuteronomy, then dropped dead aged 120. Until
recently, Mohammed worked as a shepherd – leading
his flock among the hills by the Dead Sea, singing
to them at night so they knew they were safe.
In 2016, he heard about the new Jordan Trail and applied
for a job. He now considers hikers to be easier customers
than goats – most of the time.
Few sections of the trail are lovelier than Wadi Dana.
We pass through green canyons where mistletoe
sprouts in the hollows, and pistachio and fig trees grow
around hidden springs. At the top of the valley are
villages that get buried under a metre of snow in cold
winters. At the bottom is the furnace-hot desert of
Wadi Araba – the northern end of the Great Rift Valley,
where flies buzz about thorny acacia trees. Even those
familiar with the region would be surprised by the
wildness of Wadi Dana. It is a landscape left on factory
setting since biblical times.
A local legend goes that Jesus Christ used to rest
beneath the oak trees of Wadi Dana on his walks.

60 November 2018
LAST-MINUTE WINTER JORDAN
High above a valley
with far-reaching views, the stone
village of Dana dates back
to the 15th century

November 2018 61
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Walking towards
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Wadi Feid from

the desert country
of Wadi Feynan

62 November 2018
 LAST-MINUTE WINTER JORDAN
High above a valley with
far-reaching views, the stone
village of Dana dates back to the
15th century
On this occasion, however, it’s Salem Ali Al-Naanah –
a park ranger – sitting in the shade and smoking
a cigarette.
“This is the last wilderness in the Middle East!” Salem
explains, focusing a pair of binoculars on a little desert
owl in a crag. “Whenever I walk here, it makes me want
to live freely like the birds. Just sleeping under the rock,
carrying nothing but maybe a pack of sardines.”
Formerly a lieutenant in the Jordanian army, Salem
grew up in Wadi Dana. Long ago his family exported
THE GOLDEN RULE
homemade olive oil to Jerusalem on donkeys, where King Hussein of Jordan
it was used to light the streetlamps of the holy city. was one of the most
Today, he is a custodian of the Dana Biosphere Reserve widely admired rulers in
– helping protect the endangered Nubian ibex whose the Middle East. His skill
hoofs can be heard clattering about the canyons, and for diplomacy extended
the griffon vultures that ride the thermals overhead. across borders and
Salem is also knowledgeable about djinns – genies – galaxies too: being
of which there is a healthy population in Wadi Dana. a sci-fi nut, he famously
One local recently complained of a djinn throwing appeared in Star Trek:
stones at him when he was on his mobile phone Voyager as a non-
(it stopped when he started reciting verses from the speaking extra.
Quran). Salem points out a nearby cave, home to
1
a dangerous djinn with a history of smiting trespassers
dead. These two, however, are not a representative 1. A beady-eyed awassi 2
sample.“Djinns are like people: there are good djinns sheep in Wadi Dana
and bad djinns,” he says. “Of course, nobody around here 2. Bedouin shepherd Abu
believes in ghosts. But everybody believes in djinns.” Mohammed of the Beni
Atieh tribe

DAY 2 15 KM

Wadi Feynan to
Wadi Feid
THERE IS NO INGREDIENT MORE IMPORTANT
to the Jordan Trail than tea. It’s served for breakfast,
lunch and dinner, and at various intervals in between.
A pot of sweet tea is the reward for scaling a difficult
summit, and a consolation prize for giving up short
of the top. Tea is energy for the weary and medicine
for the sick. Much of what you need to make tea is found
on the trail: juniper sticks for fuel (combusting with
zero encouragement), twigs of sweet woodwort for
added flavour.
Tea is also a way of finding your way through the
wilderness of Wadi Feid. With no other hikers in sight,
this is the wildest stretch of our trek – an arid section
of steep mountains and exposed ridges. The soot from
teatime campfires is confirmation we are following
footpaths described by millennia of shepherds' footfalls.
By mid-morning, we are scrambling up a gully, finding
handholds in the sandstone. By lunchtime, we are
at the summit, eating flatbread sandwiches on the roof
of the Middle East, looking down at birds of prey in
flight. By late afternoon, we are back down in the cool
of the canyons, picking our way through bamboo
groves, feeling alone.
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Or almost alone. Wadi Feid is one of Jordan’s last
strongholds of traditional Bedouin communities – the
nomadic Arabs who once roamed across Arabia and the
Levant, from the Indian Ocean’s shores to the foothills of
Anatolia. In recent times, many have moved to towns and
villages, their freedom eroded in the age of passports.
During our walk, Bedouin shepherds occasionally
appear in the distance. Sometimes we see a cloud of
dust, kicked up by a flock out of sight, or a smouldering
campfire left by a recently departed shepherd. Before
long, we come to a Bedouin encampment, where Abu
Mohammed of the Beni Atieh tribe welcomes us into
his goatskin tent. His 40 goats are munching contentedly
on wild parsley outside.
“Being a shepherd is a lonely life,” he explains. “You are
dependent on your sheep, on your goats, and on God.”
Over another pot of tea, Abu Mohammed explains
how, until 30 years ago, he and his family were nomads.
They would spend their winters in the deserts of Wadi
Araba, keeping watch for wolves that would stalk the
flock. In summers they would camp at the mountaintop
village of Shobak, beneath the battlements of
a Crusader castle. Now their camp is permanent,
so his grandchildren can go to a nearby school.
Abu Mohammed misses his long walks.
“Now I am an old man, my knees hurt and I cannot
walk far,” he says. “When I was young and unmarried,
I would walk for 10 days or more with my flock, thinking
of the future and the past, with no one but Allah
The story of mankind has been shaped by mortals who met
64 November 2018
for company.”
Sunsets are long and spectacular in Wadi Feid,
the sun scattering gilded beams over the Negev desert
in Israel and the Sinai in Egypt. Islands of light cling to
the top of the peaks, before being swallowed by evening
shadows. Tonight’s accommodation is a mattress set
down on the earth. We barbecue some chicken and
watch other campfires twinkle on distant hillsides as
notes from shepherds’ flutes carry through the cool air.
“A hotel feels like a strange place to me,” says
Mohammed, stoking the fire. “Under the roof of stars
I always feel like I am at home.”
Stories are shared after dinner. There is the tale of
the Jordan Trail hiker who woke screaming in the night
to find a bite on his bum and a gerbil in his sleeping bag.
And the story of the famous leopard of Wadi Feid, who
would fleetingly appear in the sights of hunters to exhaust
their ammunition, before hunting the hunters himself.
Leopards haven't been seen in Wadi Feid for 50 years.
The outlines of the mountains rise among the
constellations. Before bedtime, the full moon appears.
It is like a second dawn, milky blue light touching
the sandy wadis, giving the desert a seabed-like
appearance. All is silent but for the call to prayer
from a faraway village.
Deserts have a raw spiritual power like no other
landscape. The desert was where Christ wandered for
40 days and 40 nights. Where the Prophet Mohammed
heard the command of the Archangel Gabriel in a cave.
 LAST-MINUTE WINTER JORDAN
Sunset over Wadi Araba,
which marks the border between
Jordan and Israel

their gods in the wide-open spaces of the Middle East

November 2018 65
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1. Writer Oliver tackles
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the dusty depths of Wadi
Feid, home to some
of Jordan’s last-remaining
Bedouin communities.
2. There are over 700 plant
species growing in the Dana
Biosphere Reserve
1
SCREEN TIME
The Jordanian landscapes
are seasoned stars of
the silver screen. Petra
featured in Indiana Jones
and the Last Crusade,
as well as Transformers,
while the desert of Wadi
Rum starred as Mars in
The Martian, alien planets
in Prometheus and Star
Wars: Rogue One,
and of course, as itself
in Lawrence of Arabia.
66 November 2018
Where Luke Skywalker found Old Ben Kenobi
Where Luke Skywalker found old Ben Kenobi in a lonely
canyon. The story of mankind has been shaped by
mortals who met their gods and demons while pottering
through the wide-open spaces of the Middle East.
And even for those of no faith, it takes just a short hike
in a desert to experience many revelations. To walk for
hours in the sweltering sunshine and be eternally
grateful for the shade of a solitary tree. To trek for miles
in the dust and hear the sound of running water
as unfamiliar and beautiful music. Most of all,
to be in a place where the absence of living things makes
the presence of any life at all seem rather miraculous.
DAY 3 23 KM
Wadi Feid to Petra
OF ALL THE TRAVELLERS IN THIS PART OF
Jordan, none is more famous than maverick Swiss
explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt. In 1812, Burckhardt
heard whispers of a lost city very close to the Tomb of
the Prophet Aaron, brother of Moses, on Mount Hor. He
disguised himself as an Arab traveller on a pilgrimage
to the tomb and, in doing so, stumbled across a
metropolis forgotten by the West for nearly 1,500 years.
Petra was the two-millennia old capital of the
Nabateans, a merchant people from Arabia who grew
rich taxing passing caravans. Burckhardt entered the
gates of Petra not knowing what lay beyond. Vast tombs
appeared with every turn of the canyon, and his guides
grew suspicious of his motives and identity as he gazed
up in wonder at the heathen temples.
Today, souvenir stalls and queues of tourists crowd
the main entrance to the city. But arriving at Petra on
foot from the north is to get a tiny sense of what it was
like for Burckhardt, happening across a city that springs
LAST-MINUTE WINTER JORDAN
Sunset over Wadi Araba, which
Nights on the
marks theJordan
borderTrail
between
often
Jordanwild
involve anddesert
Israel
camping, like this
spot in Wadi Feid

November 2018 67
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1. The final resting

place of Aaron,
Moses’ brother, is a
small whitewashed tomb
2. A sign in Petra
Facing page: Petra’s
3rd-century BC Monastery

2 out of the landscape unexpectedly. Mohammed TREASURE HUNT

leads the way, shimmying along gorges and scaling It’s not just Indiana Jones
staircases hewn from sandstone. We pass through who went hunting for loot
the quiet outskirts of Petra – places where Bedouins in Petra. Look out for the
still camp inside Nabatean tombs, and sheep graze bullet holes in the Urn
in the sacred high places. Some tombs are perfectly at the top of the Treasury.
preserved; others are vague and eroded, as if slowly These century-old scars
being forgotten by the rock. are there thanks to
While Petra receives millions of visitors each year, Bedouins, who believed
Burckhardt’s original destination, the Tomb of the the Urn hid treasures
Prophet Aaron on Mount Hor, receives few. It is a sacred that might be freed by
place for Jews, Muslims and Christians. We climb to the their rifles (it didn’t).
top of the mountain, where there is a little whitewashed
tomb, guarded by a Yale padlock, and just one pilgrim:
Guillaume Duserre, a Christian from Paris. Guillaume
drives commuter trains out of Gare Montparnasse.
He dreams of driving the Eurostar to London St Pancras.
“This place has a spiritual atmosphere,” he says.
“It looks just like the landscape you imagine when
reading the Bible.”
We sit down on the roof of the tomb, share a tangerine
and admire the panorama. To the east is the Monastery,
Petra’s tallest façade, looking miniature among the
mighty cliffs. To the north are the trails that wind over
the mountains to Wadi Feid and Wadi Dana. And to the
west is the dusty sweep of the Great Rift Valley. From here,
it runs south over the Red Sea and into Africa, passing
Ethiopia’s highlands, the grasslands of Kenya, the foot
of Kilimanjaro, to the place where the story of mankind
began – and the starting point for the first big walk.

68 November 2018
LAST-MINUTE WINTER JORDAN
Sunset over Wadi Araba, which
Nights on the
marks theJordan
borderTrail
between
often
Jordanwild
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camping, like this
spot in Wadi Feid
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Essentials
BEST TIME TO VISIT
The route is best tackled
between September and
March, though there can be
snow on mountain stretches
in winter.

GETTING THERE
& AROUND
Ethihad, Kuwait Airways,
Oman Air and Emirates fly
from major Indian cities like
Mumbai, New Delhi and
Bangalore to Amman, Jordan
(return fares from ` 33,780).
GETTING AROUND
Jordan is a small country
and can easily be explored
by public transport. A good
network of public buses
connects the capital Amman
to the southern hub of Aqaba,
as well as Wadi Musa, the
gateway town to Petra
(www.jett.com.jo; Amman–
Petra from ` 1,170). To get
to places like Dana, you will
need local buses, taxis or
private transport. Car hire
is available at Amman airport
ABOUT THE TRAIL
(www.europcar.co.uk;
Stretching 645km from north to south,
` 2,650/ day).
the Jordan Trail is a serious undertaking,
SAFETY involving 36 days of hiking. It passes
Jordan is a very safe country 52 villages and towns, plus some of the
to visit. Be aware that the country’s biggest attractions: the desert
FCO advises against of Wadi Rum, the Roman city of Jerash,
travelling within two miles and Petra.
of the Syrian border.
The trail association organises an
VISA annual hike to walk the entire length
Indian passport holders (March 2 to April 14, ` 3,14,150).
are eligible for visa on arrival. Alternatively, you can join in for three-
The process generally takes
to five-night stages (www.jordantrail.org;
about 10 to 15 minutes.
from ` 22,000, including guides, meals
EMBASSY ALERT and homestay/camping). Experienced
Embassy of India - independent trekkers can download
Amman, Jordan: GPX routes from the trail website, which
www.indianembassy-amman.
also lists contact details of local guides
gov.in
who can provide baggage transfer and
CURRENCY camping equipment. Certain sections
` 1 = 0.097 Jordanian Dinar (including Petra – Wadi Rum) are too
VEG OUT/ FANCY difficult to hike without serious logistical
A CURRY? support. Again, visit the trail website
Chapatti Indian Restaurant for recommended tour operators.
comes with tasty Indian The route is best tackled between
cuisine, friendly service September and March, though there can
and a calming ambience. be snow on mountain stretches in winter.
(00-962-7-9999-2211; www.
chapattirest.com; Wasfi At-Tall
Though it’spectacular, the trail is still in
St, Amman, Jordan; meal for its infancy; many stages are not clearly BEHIND THE SCENES
two: ` 1,500) marked. With limited infrastructure, Walking the Jordan Trail, we took a detour to the old Roman copper
wild camping is often necessary. mines of Wadi Feynan. Happening across one mineshaft, we crawled
FURTHER INFO
Above all, pack at least four litres of inside, shining headtorches into the void while humming the Indiana Jones
To learn more about the
country, read Lonely Planet’s water per person per day, as shops and theme tune. It was a whole two minutes before we bumped into a long,
Jordan guide (` 800). fresh-water sources may well be scarce. scaly snakeskin and ran whimpering back into the sunlight. Oliver Smith

70 November 2018
FOUR STEPS – HIKING DANA TO PETRA
1
The tumbledown Ottoman-era village
of Dana is a fine place to rest ahead
of your trek. It’s set on the edge of the
Dana Biosphere Reserve – perhaps the
country’s most beautiful national park, around
three hours’ drive southwest from Amman.
The reserve authorities also operate the
excellent Dana Guesthouse, where
spacious rooms have balconies looking out
into the canyons (www.wildjordan.com; from
` 6,850). The downhill trek from Dana
to Feynan Eco Lodge (14km) is easy
to follow and very popular with day-hikers.
2
Set on the western side of Dana, Feynan
Eco Lodge (above) offers some of the
most characterful accommodation in
Jordan: it’s an environmentally conscious hotel
with candlelit rooms. The lodge operates
numerous excursions (some included in rates),
such as hikes to nearby Roman copper mines.
Evenings see guests joining rooftop
stargazing workshops, making use of the
lodge’s powerful telescope (www.ecohotels.
me; from ` 16,500 with meals).
3
The stretch of the Jordan Trail from
Feynan to Little Petra is the most
challenging of this stage, with two
full days of walking, and one night’s wild
camping in Ras Al Feid. All but the most
confident walkers will need a guide (see
the trail website for local companies that can
help). The first day sees hikers ascend the
Great Rift Valley escarpment from Wadi
Malaga to Ras Al Feid (15km). The second
day is lengthy, with paths meandering along
rolling hills, and a sharp descent to Little Petra,
a town outside the main city (22km).
At Little Petra, the Seven Wonders
Bedouin Camp (above) has simple
accommodation in Bedouin tents (www.
sevenwondersbedouincamp.com;
from ` 4,100).
4
The walk from Little Petra to Petra
(12km) is a gentle way to conclude your
journey. Rather than approaching
from the main entrance through the Siq,
the trail follows clifftop paths to the
Monastery. From here, pass through Petra city
centre and the Treasury as you exit towards
Wadi Musa, the town where most visitors
to Petra stay. You’ll need to arrange a ticket in
advance to enter the site from the north
(www.visitpetra.jo; one-day admission:
` 4,850). The Sharah Mountains Hotel
has good-value rooms on the hillside in Wadi
Musa (www.sharahmountains.com;
from ` 3,000).
November 2018 71
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DANCING
DIVINE
TO THE

With the sound of gajalu replacing that of temple bells,

the humble town of Kuchipudi in Andhra Pradesh
is where rhythm resides
Words AURELIA FERNANDES
Photographs T. KRISHNA PRABAKAR @krishnaprabakar

72 November 2018
PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY LAST-MINUTE WINTER CAMBODIA
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The ride to Kuchipudi from

Vijayawada is a long one.
Vijayawada’s stocky cement
structures are gradually replaced
by lush fields, as the trees create
a canopy over the tarmac.
A pale yellow gateway welcomes
you to Kuchipudi Natyakshetram,
but there’s almost no trace of the
famed art form that puts this village
on the map. And so, the question
hangs in the air:

Is Kuchipudi fading away?

74 November 2018
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1 2

3 4

76 November 2018
 KUCHIPUDI THE VILLAGE, THE WAY

KUCHIPUDI
Originating in the town of Kuchipudi
in Andhra Pradesh, this art form follows
a dance-drama format. Kuchipudi finds its roots
in the Natya Shastra, an ancient Sanskrit
manifesto on performing arts. It involves
extensive stage movements and footwork,
while the drama is provided via mudras
(hand gestures), eye movements
and facial expressions.

D
Vedantam Radheshyam EEPER into the village, the houses become sparser, their facades
as Sathya Bhama and a combination of South Indian aesthetics and structural designs that
his son Siddhendra seems to belong to the 1990s. Only the temple stands out, set in the heart
as Sri Krishna of the village itself. The road diverges, takes us further, past a stepwell
Facing page: construction site, to a four-storeyed home, painted in pastel shades.
1. Always hands on, The sign outside reads Vedantam vari Gurukulam. Dr Vedantam
Dr Vedantam Radheshyam waits to greet us at the entrance.
Radheshyam A tall lanky man with ivory hair and a pearly smile, he introduces his son
tunes a veena Siddhendra Vedantam, a seasoned Kuchipudi dancer and guru himself. With an obvious language
2. Grand jewellery barrier, we’re glad that Siddhendra is here, as he leads us to the second floor of his childhood home.
forms an integral part “It isn’t time for class yet, so the students are on their way,” he explains as he leads us into the main
of Kuchipudi area. With the entire floor converted into a dance studio of sorts, it’s hard not be overwhelmed
3. Girls start dancing at at first glance. Thin mats line the floors; the walls are adorned with awards too many to acknowledge.
the tender age of five Previous gurus, immortalised in a long line of portraits, seem to follow Vedantam Radheshyam’s
4. Lush paddy fields steps, as he offers prayers at a small shrine at the end of the room. The first students scurry past,
welcome you on the way preparing for class. They move around the house with a sense of familiarity, navigating in and out
of rooms as if it were their own home. We soon learn that it is – the family has accommodation on
the same floor for dancers. “My father believes wholeheartedly in the guru-shishya parampara
(teacher-student bond),” explains Siddhendra. “It is a very important part of this art. The relationship
between a teacher and student is sacred – it is the cornerstone of Kuchipudi. This dance form follows
the principles of bhakti (devotion), rakti (unification), tanmayatva (liberation), bhava (expression),
raaga (melody) and taala (rhythm). We open our home to students so that they, too, devote their life
to promoting Kuchipudi.
Suddenly, the quiet dance studio is filled with students, ranging from little girls with jhumkas
seemingly too big when compared to the childishness of their baby faces to young women strapping
the gajalu (dance anklets) on their feet. Siddhendra sees us looking at them.
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“Gajalus have to be earned,”

W

he tells us. “It is a rite of

passage. That’s why the
novice dancers wear payals,
but the accomplished ones
wear gajalu.”
The bells tinkle softly as clasps are fastened.
“Each ballet is a story. Kuchipudi is not just
dancing; it’s a combined art. It involves music,
acting, literature and dance. To be a Kuchipudi
guru, it is essential that one excels in all these
fields. You don’t just become a dancer, you
become a performing artiste. This art form
carries generations of knowledge. Even now,
when we compose ballets, we go back to the
Natyashastra and revisit the sholkas and apply
the theory to our pieces. My father’s list of gurus
is a long one, because, from every guru,
you learn something new. One of his first
gurus was his own older brother, Vedantam
Seeta Rama Sastry. He was a true powerhouse.
He taught my father the fundamentals of
Kuchipudi. My grandfather, Vedantam
Suryanarayan Sharma, however, wasn’t
a dancer, but a dance poet, a sub section
of Kuchipudi that’s not seen often now.
It’s only the nataks (musicals) that truly
attract people today.”

OF DANCERS AND LEGACIES

“Kuchipudi involves role reversals,”
Radheshyam tells us in a mixture of Hindi and
English, showing us an album of photographs
of dancers in full costume. “You will see older
dancers taking on youthful roles, and younger
dancers acting as old people. Dancing has
allowed me to perform on many national and
international stages. I have performed many
roles, including that of Satya Bhama, a female
avatar.” The 63-year-old guru shows us a photo
of himself dressed as Satya Bhama, complete
with luscious locks and a face painted for the
gods. The transformation is so spectacular,
it takes us a minute to reconcile ourselves
to the idea that the beautiful woman in
the photo is the man in front of us. “It’s
Kuchipudi tradition to have a man play all
the roles in a ballet,” Siddhendra tells us.
“Right up until the 1950s, the dancers were
predominantly male. It was Vedantam
Lakshminarayan Sastry, who is known
for inventing the solo format in Kuchipudi,
who championed women dancers. It is tough
for men to embody the female avatar, but, with
practice, one can achieve the aura and nuances
of being a woman.” Vedantam Radheshyam
laughs, a sound that instantly puts a smile
on the faces of the few students standing by us.
A student demonstrates a mudra
Facing page:
Veenas are an essential
part of Kuchipudi
practice and performance
Encouraged by our awe at his performance photos, he displays his
stage props, including the hair piece that is a prominent feature of
his Satyabhama avatar. The weight of the wig isn’t to be taken lightly,
a reminder that like most, if not all performing arts, it always boils down
to discipline. A fact that is promptly reiterated as the teacher motions
his students to get ready for class and, within seconds, the dance studio,
now filled with 50 odd students, falls into silence. Vedantam Radheshyam
takes centre stage and drums out a beat on the chidatha kara (a wooden
instrument used to keep time), while a former student – who happens
to be the principal of a local school and dance institute – picks up the veena.
Class is ready to begin.
DANCING TO THE SONGS OF OLD
As an artform, Kuchipudi traces its roots right back to the Natyashastra
written by Bharata Muni. The Natyashastra acts as a manual for most
Indian dance forms, including Kuchipudi. While Bharata Muni was
responsible for this stage manifesto, it was Maharashi Sidhendra

78 November 2018
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November 2018 79
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2 3
 KUCHIPUDI THE VILLAGE, THE WAY

Yogi and other dance scholars from the town,

who further developed Kuchipudi as a singular
art form. Out of the few remaining families
in the village that champion this art,
Vedantam Radheshyam’s is one of the oldest.
With a diploma honours in Kuchipudi, he has
called the stage his home right since he was a
young boy and had been teaching the dance form
for over four decades. Dancing over the years
has obviously imbued every part of his life;
he doesn’t walk, he glides with grace across
the room during the course of the class.
There is something different
about him now; he is not
the man we had exchanged
polite smiles with a while ago.
The gentle smile hasn’t
faded, but there is a sense
of authority as he commands
the dance floor.
Ever so often, his vibrant voice cuts through the
rhythm, as he gently reprimands the dancers,
but, for the most part, he sits there, with that
soft smile on his face, allowing his students
artistic freedom, letting their movements
breathe and take their own form.

There’s something unspeakably refreshing

about watching dancers move with such
abandon, though always aware of their guru’s
watchful gaze. The group of young women
disperses, and a few older women take the floor.
“We don’t believe that there is a fixed age at
which you should start dancing,” Siddhendra
explains. “Yes, it is good to start when you’re
young to cultivate discipline, but, no matter
how old you are, if the love for dance is true,
Kuchipudi welcomes you.” The women’s hands
contour themselves into mudras, their faces
melt into exaggerated expressions. The group
is a mixed one, with women who’ve been
learning for years, diploma holders and
passionate patrons alike. They all move at their
own rhythm, their feet catching the beat,
the bells on their gajalu chiming in unison.
Then, even as the women gracefully exit,
the patter of tiny feet takes over. Thirty young
girls stand before of us, the youngest ones
no more than five years old. If this is truly
the strength of an average class, especially
in a small village like this, there is clearly
no worry regarding the future of this art form.
Turns out they are all students from the nearby
school, whose principal is an old student of
Vedantam Radheshyam. “I have personally
studied under guruji; to me, this is home,”
she tells us, looking over at him as he monitors
the young students. “My love for this dance
Dancing or not,
Dr Vedantam Radheshyam
is always smiling!
Facing page:
1. The studio comes alive
with the rhythm of the dancers
2. Kuchipudi requires its gurus
to be well-versed in music as well
3. The dancers patiently wait for their turn
and the desire to teach others is all thanks to my guru. The guru-shishya
parampara is truly what makes Kuchipudi so special. Just like he and
I have a bond, it is important for me too, to have the same bond with
my students. Bringing them here to meet him lets them understand
that they, too, are part of a legacy,” she add, casting a glance at her
0own bright-eyed students.
The girls look keenly at Vedantam Radheshyam, awaiting instructions.
He conducts this part of the class with utmost care, displaying mudras
and walking past the rows of girls, correcting their stance, all with a smile.
A few of the women join him, helping these young children perfect their
form. Watching the older generation impart its knowledge, it becomes
clear how the legacy of Kuchipudi has been embedded deep in the roots
of this village. Although they are but children, a few of the girls are eager
to lead the class in a quick display of the mudras, as the older students
look on, bemused. “It isn’t uncommon for students to become gurus
themselves,” Siddhendra informs us. “People who pick up Kuchipudi
at a young age usually make a career out of it. While being a performing
artiste is one phase, those who are truly serious pursue diploma
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courses and education in Kuchipudi itself.

It is the primary reason the Sri Siddhendra
Yogi Kala Pitham (Kuchipudi dance school)
still survives. Kuchipudi dancers know the
importance of their art. We know we have
to carry the torch forward.” he says, as the
group of young girls disperses. It seems like
a heavy burden to place on such young
shoulders, but these tiny dancers seem
to embrace it with an air of grace.

ALL THE WORLD’S A STAGE

The final act of any drama is always the most
enticing one. It’s when loose ends come together,
when art becomes whole. As a troupe of young
students makes its way onto the dance floor,
it becomes clear that they have been preparing
for and eagerly anticipating this final act.
The sound of bells bounces off the walls,
as the floor vibrates with the thumping of their
feet. But their impressive movements and sharp
expressions almost fade into the background
when Vedantam Radheshyam steps among
them. Sticking true to Kuchipudi tradition,
the guru has taken on a female persona, with
movements and grace that rise above his lack
of costume and make-up. We watch, entranced.
His movements seem as
natural as breathing.
We will find out later that
this is an impromptu
performance, but, in this Dr. Vedantam Radheshyam
has won an astounding
moment, it causes us to catch number of awards

our breath. Every movement, Facing page:

The sound of gajalus
every beat, every mudra is music in itself

is an extension of his being.

He glides across the floor with such beauty
that even his dancers lose their concentration
for a moment, only to be brought back
to reality by their guru urging them to join
him. There may be many of them in the
performance, but it’s hard to look away
from the seasoned dancer.
Kuchipudi is a demanding art form, and
by the time the performance draws to a close,
the group’s energy levels seem to be dangerously
depleted. Their guruji is the exception; as the
group disperses and he ends the classes for
the day, it is as if Vedantam Radheshyam is still
dancing – the grace he exudes is more radiant
than ever.
MOVING TO THE BEAT
OF TOMORROW
Having watched him perform makes it easy
to understand the number of awards that line the walls of his dance studio.
The cupboards are overflowing, and a few lie scattered on the windowsill,
a Guinness World Record plaque among them. “Father conducted the
largest Kuchipudi stage performance in 2008 – over 3,000 people
participated,” Siddhendra explains, wiping dust off the plaque. “It was
a world record.” He has also won the Kendra Sangeetha Nataka Academy
Award and the Hamsa Award. “None of these awards matter to him.
All that matters is his art.”
As we prepare to leave, the sound of laughter replaces the music.
Siddhendra prepares to walk us through the village, to introduce us
to a few residents who happen to be Kuchipudi dancers too. “Kuchipudi
runs in our blood, this is our legacy. Even though a lot of the younger
generation, including myself, leave to spread the art, the older generation
believes in staying close to their roots.” We turn to Vedantam Radheshyam,
curious about why he hasn’t moved out of the town to promote Kuchipudi.
“Why would I leave home?” he asks. “My students and my art need me here.”
We leave him surrounded by his students; it’s clear they’ve devoted their life
to this beautiful art form and he his own to them.

82 November 2018
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MAKE IT HAPPEN: KUCHIPUDI, ANDHRA PRADESH

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Essentials
BEST TIME TO VISIT
The best time to visit is
between October to March
when the weather is pleasant,
making it easier to travel
to Kuchipudi and back.
GETTING THERE
Air India, Jet Airways,
SpiceJet, GoAir and IndiGo
fly to Vijayawada from
all major Indian cities
(return fares from ` 11,000).
The closest railhead is
Vijayawada Junction (BZA).
From Chennai, take the 12621
Tamil Nadu Express (leaves
Chennai Central [MAS] 10pm,
reaches BZA 4.10am; ` 745
3AC). Return by the 12969
Coromandel Express (leaves
BZA 10.10am, arrives MAS
5.00pm; ` 745 3AC).
GETTING AROUND
Hiring a car in Vijayawada
is the easiest way to navigate
around the city. There’s
a good chance your driver
will know English or Hindi,
which might help to bridge
the language gap when you
step out. We used and liked
the services of Sri Ravi Car
Travels (00-91-88854-38888;
` 1,800/ 8 hours/ 80km).
GOOD TO KNOW
Ù The car ride from
Vijayawada to Kuchipudi
takes roughly one-and-a-half
hour. Once you move out
of the city, it is unlikely that
you’ll find any provision
stores, so carry water
and light snacks.
Ù In case you have trouble
finding Vedantam vari
Gurukulam, let your driver
do the talking, since most
people don’t speak much
STAY
There are no hotel worth staying in in Kuchipudi, so it’s
best to base yourself in Vijayawada, 50km away.
Hotel CityCentral: Set deep in the bylanes of
Vijayawada, Hotel CityCentral is a well-maintained
hotel with clean rooms and helpful staff. Its location
makes it ideal for an evening stroll, to get a real taste
of Vijayawada’s bustling city life (00-91-86-6257-3333;
D No 27-14, 4, Rajagopalachari St, Buckinghampeta;
from ` 3,500, with wi-fi and breakfast).
Hotel Aira: Located at Benz Circle, Vijayawada’s plush
shopping area, Hotel Aira has a cool artsy vibe with
a vague industrial touch. Ask the hotel staff to help you
with the massage barcalounger on the first floor; it’s the
perfect way to relax after a long day of walking around
(00-91-86-6242-4449; Benz Circle; from ` 4,000;
Barcalounger: ` 100/ 20 minutes).
The Gateway Hotel MG Road Vijayawada: With
an in-house bar, restaurant and spa, this swanky Taj
property offers a stunning view of the Krishna River.
You get all the Taj offerings at a reasonable rate
(00-91-86-6664-4444; MG Rd; from ` 7,000 with wi-fi).
EAT
mango achaar (pickle), which gives
the meat and rice a tangy kick.
Avakaya biryani is milder than
ulavacharu biryani, but don’t
underestimate the spice quotient
(00-91-82-9726-8111;
www.sweetmagic.in; First Floor,
D-Address Mall, MG Rd, Labbipet;
7am – 11.30pm; avakaya chicken
biryani: ` 300).
Milap’s: Finding a authentic Punjabi
takeaway restaurant in Vijayawada
is all sorts of odd, but Milap‘s whips
SSS Idly Hotel: Although it may not in Vijayawada serves up a pretty up a really good lassi, complete
look like much from the outside, mean version. Consider this a fair with a dollop of malai. And, after
SSS Idly Hotel in Vijayawada is warning and dig in with caution. all that spicy biryani, your tummy
nothing short of a powerhouse. Like most restaurants in Vijayawada, will thank you for some cooling lassi
With a steady flow of foodies Crossroads’s portions are quite (00-91-86-6661-1991; BRP Rd,
visiting, this restaurant has only one healthy, so, unless you’re a big near Punja Centre; 11am – 4pm,
thing on its menu: idlis. SSS Idly eater, splitting a biryani between 6pm –11pm; lassi: ` 70).

INPUTS FROM LALITHA LUKE

Hindi or English.
Ù If you’re driving to
Kuchipudi yourself, Google
Maps is accurate for most
part; seek help when you
get to the village.
knows how to do them well. Cut in
squares and known for their soft,
grainy texture, you must make a pit
stop here for these at least once
(00-99-1258-1968; Municipal
Employees Colony, Acharya Ranga
Nagar; 6am – 11am, 4.30pm –
two people is the best way to go
(www.crossroadshotel.in;
Moghalrajapuram, Gollapudi,
Prakasam Rd, Vijayawada;
11am – 11pm; ulavacharu
chicken biryani: ` 280).
Sri Ramayya Mess And Caterers:
If you’re looking for the complete
Andhra thali experience, this is
the place you’ll find it. Don’t let the
three different lunchrooms and price
ranges fool you; the only difference
PHOTOGRAPHS: KRISHNA PRABAKAR T

9.30pm; ` 14/ idli).
Ù If you wish to visit the
Sri Siddhendra Yogi Kala
Crossroads: Made primarily with
Pitham, do ask Vedantam
peanuts, ulavacharu is a spicy rich
Radheshyam, in case class
gravy that puts your spice tolerance
is not in session.
to the test. Ulavacharu biryani is
an Andhra special and Crossroads
Sweet Magic: What started off
as a small sweet shop is now one
of Vijayawada’s most loved food
institutions. While Sweet Magic
serves a traditional Andhra thali,
try the avakaya biryani. The gravy
base of this biryani is essentially
is that each room has a different
number of dishes, depending
on how much you pay. Opt for
the ` 200 thali for the real
deal (00-91-92906-70934;
Prakasam Rd, Venkatswara Rao St,
Governorpet; thalis from `100).

84 November 2018
 EXPERIENCE
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Come winter, South Korea transforms

into a magical land, promising visitors
winter adventures of every possible kind

86 November 2018
 A WINTER OF
Unusual
FIRSTS
Winters in South Korea are magical, and, if it’s your maiden
voyage to the bite-sized nation, expect plenty of surprises –
a dancing Pikachu on the streets of Seoul, sub-zero temperatures
on Gangmun Beach and other experiences of the unusual kind

I
Words AMRITA LALL

T’S 3.30pm and I’m shivering. Under my oversized parka and four other layers
of woollens, I’m still shivering. For somebody who has lived all her life in cities where
winter temperatures don’t dip below 170C, Seoul at a chilly -3 seems highly capable
of freezing people alive. A bemused passerby notices as I furiously rub my mitten-covered
hands together and place them against my face, offers a warm smile, and (after rightly
assuming that I’m a person in slight distress) asks if I need help. I’ve been warned that
English isn’t widely-spoken in South Korea, so I respond with the best smile my partly-
frozen face can muster and ask “Myeongdong – which way?” Turns out, he speaks
the language fluently and tells me how to get there. A 15-minute walk later, I’ve arrived. Myeondong,
widely believed to be South Korea’s premier shopping district, at first sight, lives up to all that
I’ve read, heard and imagined. Loudspeakers busting upbeat K-pop tunes, hawkers carting in their
food stalls and prepping for the evening, and hundreds of stores selling the latest trends in fashion,
beauty products of every kind imaginable, and the promise of successful cosmetic surgeries at
bizarrely low prices – I’m delighted that the market more than just lives up to all the clichés. I decide
to loiter around till sundown. From what I’ve heard, night is when the market truly comes alive.
Since I have some time to kill before night falls, I head to a little pub I’d noticed earlier in the day.
Like diners at every other table, I call for chimaek (“chi” for chicken and “maek” for maekju, Korean
for beer), the combo that took Korea by storm five years ago and has shown no signs of dying ever since.
As I wait for my order, I notice how well-dressed everybody around me is. Both men and women
are dressed to the nines with flawless skin, impeccably-styled hair and with solid proof of top-notch
make-up skills. Kitted out in almost my entire winter wardrobe, my face just peeking out under
my parka, I feel like quite the alien; an alien waiting to dig into some crunchy, juicy chicken.
When I finally do try the chicken with the dark beer, I’m surprised at how well they go together.
PHOTOGRAPH: WOOJIN KIM/123RF

A few swigs later, I’m out the door – all warmed up (thanks to the beer) and ready to take on
the wonders the night has to offer.
Myeongdong has transformed itself in the time I was in the pub. There are bright, neon lights
everywhere, salesmen coaxing customers off the lanes and into their stores, the sound of people
laughing and making merry, and the inviting smell of deep-fried food. By now, the chilly temperature
is a problem of the past and I’m headed straight for the tteokbokki stall. By the time I’m handed a bowl
with the cylinder-shaped rice cakes cooked in gochujang (a sweet, spicy red pepper sauce) and topped

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88 November 2018

PHOTOGRAPHS: JASON BRYAN / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (1), SEAN PAVONE / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (2), VITTORIA / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (3); FACING PAGE: TAWATCHAI PRAKOBKIT / 123RF (1), NEWSCOM / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (2)
1 Olympics this year – its snow-covered mountains offer
“An hour later, I’ve managed to ski at
snail pace from a slightly elevated point
to a fairly flat surface – clearly, it isn’t
as easy as the movies make it out to be”
2 of South Korea, is an experience that’s many kinds of special.
1 & 2. South Korea’s snow-covered slopes
offer both amateurs and professionals
ample chances to hone their skiing skills
Facing page:
1. Drop by Seoul’s Myeongdong Market
post sundown – that's when it truly
comes to life
2 & 3. When it comes to street food in
Myeongdong, you’ll find the ordinary,
the conventional and many kinds of bizarre
with a fried egg, I’m convinced that I must stay back in Seoul
for a few more days because there’s so much street food on offer
– it’ll take me many, many days to try it all. As I scarf down
the excellent tteokbokki, I notice the adjacent stall serving
what looks like a little pancake. It’s called hotteok, a Korean
pancake filled with brown sugar syrup. Of course,
I’m tempted, but I resist because I’ve just caught sight
of the perfect end to my snappy Seoul street-food sojourn.
Bungeoppang, made from waffle batter, is the cutest little thing
I’ve ever wanted to eat. The fish-shaped bread is stuffed with
Korea’s favourite dessert filling – generous amounts of delicious
red bean paste. I’m now thoroughly convinced that indulging
in lots of piping-hot street food is a great way to deal with the
South Korean cold. Since the night’s still young, I decide to take
my fish waffle along for a stroll through the market. From being
tempted to gorge on many other delicacies, including foot-long
ice-cream cones and eomuk kkochi (fish cakes) to being almost
convinced into investing in a moisturiser packaged in a box
shaped like Pikachu, Myeongdong has a wide choice of
temptations to indulge in. I give in to several, including buying
a ticket to watch stuffed Pokemon dance to K-pop on a tiny,
make-shift stage. Apparently, filming the performance is
prohibited – my night in Myeongdong ends with a man telling
me off in Korean. I have no regrets though – where else could
I have had the chance to watch Pokemon grooving to K-pop?
SNOW, ICE & EVERYTHING NICE
If your main holiday motives include shopping and trying
exciting new food, Seoul fits the bill. If you’re looking to indulge
in some more action, South Korea spoils you for choice.
It’s no surprise that the country played host to the Winter
the perfect setting for a wide variety of snow sports including
skiing, snowboarding and snow-sledding. Located a little
over an hour away from Seoul, the Elysian Gangchon Resort
in Gapyeong County is a great place for amateurs to get
acquainted with the wonders South Korea’s snow-covered-
slopes guarantee. While the most convenient way to get there
from Seoul is by the subway, the drive offers spectacular views.
It’s safe to say that I’ve hardly blinked through it – moving away
from modern cityscapes, crossing the Han River and snaking
through stark-white, barren vistas, with towering snow-
covered mountains as a backdrop makes for a memory I will
not forget for a long, long time. Stepping on snow for the first
time is a feeling that can only be described as surreal; getting
to do it in a land far, far away from home, in the mountains
“Watch your step, everybody! Some parts are slippery!”
I hear a Good Samaritan’s voice as I gleefully click pictures
of my boots making patterns on the snow. I’m clearly not
listening so well, because, a few minutes later, I’ve taken
a tumble. I’ve somehow landed on one knee, with the
other stretched out behind me and with my palms flat
against the snow, bearing the weight of my fall. I brush
the snow off with an insouciance that doesn’t quite fool
anyone; I’m surrounded by 10 faces staring at my knee
with varying expressions of concern, worry and slight
amusement. Turns out, it is a pretty hard fall – my jeans
are ripped at the knees. I look down and see that I’ve also left
a little blood in the snow. At this point, my feelings are a mix
of mild bafflement and pride. I’m astonished at the extent to
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PHOTOGRAPHS: AURORA PHOTOS / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (1), CHEE-ONN LEONG / 123RF (2); FACING PAGE: INSUNG CHOI / 123RF
which cold weather can dull the intensity of pain but, more than
that, I’m slightly proud of how special my first snow experience 2
has been. Still, due to my injury, I can’t go snow-sledding or try
my hand (or legs) at skiing – I spend the rest of my time sitting in
the resort, staring wistfully at people zooming down the slopes.
But I will have my day in the snow, so I head next to
PyeongChang, the home of the Winter Olympics earlier this
year. The gorgeous Alpensia Resort, where most of the outdoor
games of the Olympics took place, is where I’ve signed up for ski
lessons. Before I get to the resort, I stop by at one of the many
ski gear rental stores that line the roads leading up to the resort.
As I finally pick up my ski poles and wear my boots at the resort,
I realise that skiing is not everyone’s cup of tea – lugging the
unbelievably heavy poles to the snow is a challenge in itself.
Difficult thing number two is strapping your boots onto the
poles and figuring out what angle your poles must be at if you’re
moving too fast and need to brake. An hour later, I’ve managed
to ski at snail pace from a slightly elevated point to a fairly flat
surface – clearly, it isn’t as easy as the movies make it out to be.
One thing they do have right, though, is how tired, weary and
famished it leaves you. It’s not exactly the European après-ski
tradition, but, like everyone else, I head to the one of the many
Korean barbecue restaurants nearby. You cannot possibly deem
your Korean holiday complete without trying Korean barbecue,
or gogi-gui, as it is locally known. Diners at most barbecue
restaurants are provided with portable stoves to use
at their tables, to roast the thinly-sliced meat to their
personal preferences. The whole meal consists of a variety

90 November 2018
of accompaniments, including a green onion salad called
pajeori, kimchi, and ssamjang, a spicy paste of soybean mixed
with gochujang. A popular way of eating Korean barbecued meat
is by wrapping the meat in lettuce and adding condiments
as per one’s taste. Do like the Koreans and call for some soju
– considered one of the world’s most popular spirits, the drink
can be best described as a slightly watered-down vodka.
Pour yourself a small glass, as is customary, and down
it all at once after a big bite of the authentic Korean meal.
COLD BEACHES & LESSONS IN FOLKLORE
I realise speeding down South Korea’s highest mountain
might not be everyone’s idea of winter entertainment, and,
as an always-willing guinea pig for South Korea, I decide to
check out a more laid-back option. I head down to the coastal
city of Gangneung, located on the east side of the country’s
longest mountain range, Taebaek. With a quaint, laid-back vibe,
serene tree-lined avenues, history that dates back centuries,
and the promise of some quiet downtime by the beach,
Gangneung is perfect if you’re looking to spend the day
by yourself. I stop by the legendary Ojukheon House,
the birthplace of two of South Korea’s most beloved historical
figures, Shin Saimdang and her son, the revered Confucian
scholar Yulgok Yi (you can find them on 50,000 Won and 5,000
Won notes respectively). I’m overwhelmed, as you will be,
as I walk through the memorial, which remains one of the
oldest wooden residential buildings in Korea. When I get to
Gangmun Beach, I realise that it’s going to be quite the task
bringing myself to say goodbye to this charming city. It’s quite
odd, being on a beach bundled up in all my woollens as the
chilly winds slap my face. But it’s also the kind of odd I would
like to keep coming back to, over and over. As I find a spot in
a lovely little coffee shop that looks out onto the beach, I can’t
help but smile a small, wistful smile. As I raise my mug
of coffee (ideally, I would have preferred soju) in honour of the
most special winter experience of my life, the gently rolling
waves in the distance and the soft jazz playing in the coffee
shop offer the perfect background score. With a heavy heart,
I say my small, sincere goodbye to South Korea. For now.

Get yourself a cup of coffee

to brave the harsh winter winds
and gaze out at the stunning
views on offer in Gangneung
Facing page:
1. The Alpensia Ski Resort
in Pyeongchang served as
a key destination for the
Winter Olympics earlier this year
2. Keep an eye out for quirky
souvenirs to take back home

“As I find a spot in a lovely little coffee

shop that looks out onto the beach, I can’t
help but smile a small, wistful smile”
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MAKE IT HAPPEN: SOUTH KOREA

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Essentials
BEST TIME TO VISIT
While Spring (April to June)
and Fall (September to
November) are without doubt
the best times to be in South
Korea, winter turns South
Korea into a magical land
full of promises. The snow-
covered mountains are
perfect for a wide range
of winter sports and the
sub-zero temperatures call
for some indulgent street-
food bingeing.

GETTING THERE
Jet Airways, Hong Kong
Airlines, Cathay Pacific,
Malaysia Airlines, Air India
and Korean Air fly into Seoul’s
Incheon International Airport
from Mumbai and New Delhi
with stopovers (return fares
from ` 45,600).
GETTING AROUND
Seoul’s metro system is cheap,
convenient and easy to use.
To get to PyeongChang and
Gangneung, get yourself
a KORAIL PASS. Implemented
especially for foreign visitors,
the transport network is the
most efficient way to travel
from one end of the country to

INPUTS FROM LALITHA LUKE

the other (see www.letskorail.
com for more information).
VISA STAY
A single-entry tourist visa
Down a narrow street Strategically located in A key destination during the Winter Olympics
takes four to five working
in Seoul’s Hongdae region, the heart of Seoul, Tmark earlier this year, the Alpensia Ski Resort
days and costs ` 2,800.
Small House Big Door Hotel Myeongdong in PyeongChang is one of the world’s most premier
Tourists can apply through

VFS or directly at the
consulate.
EMBASSY ALERT
Embassy of India, Seoul:
www.indembassy.or.kr
CURRENCY
` 1 = 15 South Korean won
(KRW)
VEG OUT
An Indian chain with multiple
outlets across Seoul, Jyoti
Restaurant offers generous
portions of Indian classics,
with plenty of vegetarian
options (00-82-2-703-3535;
www.jyotifood.com; check
website for addresses and
timings; set meals from ` 620).
is a smart little art hotel.
The white rooms feature
hand-made furniture while
the more expensive ones
come with private outdoor
sitting areas (00-82-2-
2038-8191; www.small
housebigdoor.com;
6, Namdaemun-ro 9-gil,
Jung-gu; from ` 6,800).
SEE & DO
PHOTOGRAPHS: TAWATCHAI PRAKOBKIT/ 123RF (SKIING), LIOR PATEL / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (MARKET)
has 288 modern and stylish ski resorts and has been designed as a composite
rooms, offers excellent service tourist complex, with multiple accommodation
and lies at a walking options for guests. The six slopes offer both
distance from the vibrant beginners and professionals plenty of opportunities
Myeongdong Market to engage in some serious skiing and snowboarding
(00-82-2-2098-2000; (00-82-33-339-0000; www.alpensiaresort.co.kr,
www.tmarkhotel.com; alpeninfo@alpensiaresort.co.kr; (25351)
(04554) 15, Chungmu-ro, Gangwon-Do PyeongChang-Gun, Daegwallyeong-
Jung-gu, Seoul; from ` 7,500). huon, Solbong-Ro325; from `22,800).
Myeongdong Market 2nd Floor, 141-3, Myung
for Western snacks: yun-dong, 2ga, Chongno-gu;
Myeongdong 2-ga, Jung-gu; 4pm – 2am; fried chicken
10am – 10pm; fish waffle: from ` 525, beer from ` 200
` 220, Nutella banana
crêpe: ` 220 Ojukheon House:
24, Yulgok-ro 3139 beon-gil,
Chicken Maru for chicken Gyeongpo-dong,
and beer: 00-82-2745-9291; Gangneung, Gangwon-do

92 November 2018
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The PerfecT TriP
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Thailand
N
AO L
VISRIVA
AR

You don’t have to head far from the capital to get the best out of Thailand: start with
a foodie tour of Bangkok’s markets, before retracing WWII heritage in Kanchanaburi,
and feeling the peace among the temples of Ayuthaya. Now it’s island-hopping time,
so make for the beach heaven of Ko Kut and the jungle interior of Ko Chang
Words OLIVER BERRY @olivertomberry | Photographs JUSTIN FOULKES @justinfoulkes

PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY

PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY LAST-MINUTE WINTER CAMBODIA

Rack of ribs and all the

trimmings at Central BBQ.
Home Phutoey Resort sits above
Left: Lunchtime
a picturesque bendatinPayne’s Bar-B-Q.
the Khwae, with
Opposite: aThe
backdrop
Bar-B-QofShop’s
craggy karst
Eric hills
Vernon
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Your trip mapped out

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YOUR DESTINATION
Capital: Bangkok
How far away is it? Flying time from
New Delhi is about 4 hours.
Languages spoken: Thai, Chinese, Burmese
and English
At a Glance
YOUR TRIP
Cost: $$$$$
Ideal number of days: A week is good
enough to explore all of Central Thailand.
Visa: Visa on arrival. It usually takes about 3 to 6
hours for the process (at the airport).
When to go: The best time to travel is between
November and early April.
Who is it good for? For anyone and everyone
looking to have a good time
Highlights: The history, culture, beaches,
food and lots of adventure

MAP ILLUSTRATION: KATE SUTTON

PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY

Taste two sides of Thai street food in
Bangkok
I
T’S MIDDAY IN BANGKOK
and everyone is contemplating the
most important decision of the day:
where to go for lunch. Some people
will head to a backstreet noodle
stall for pad thai; others might dine in an
old-fashioned shophouse on khao soy, a meaty
pork broth, or kôw pàt, Thai-style fried rice,
sitting on plastic chairs beside the pavement
as tuk-tuks and taxis buzz past.
For diners at TheCOMMONS, the choice
is more international, as this community
space offers a smorgasbord of cuisines within
its brushed concrete walls, along with a yoga
studio, play centre and a rooftop garden with
grass lawn. Founded in 2016 by a Bangkok-born
LAST-MINUTE WINTER CENTRAL THAILAND
1 2
sister and brother, Vicharee and Varatt
Vichit-Vadakan, TheCOMMONS is located
in Thong Lor, a neighbourhood known for
its trendy bars and high-rise apartments.
“The idea behind TheCOMMONS was
to provide space for restaurateurs and
producers who would otherwise struggle
to pay the city’s rising rents,” says Witsawawit
Chantaweesomboon, or Tam, who works
as a barista at Roots Coffee, TheCOMMONS’
in-house espresso bar. “It’s like being part
of a big family.”
A more traditional version of street food is on
offer at Rot Fai Ratchada Night Market, where
every evening rickety stalls fill the former train
yard and vendors cook up cauldrons of noodle
1. Rot Fai Ratchada
Night Market
2. Spicy Thai-style
chicken burger at
TheCOMMONS
soup, their hissing woks filled with fried rice,
green chillies and shrimp, platters stacked
with razor clams, mussels, cockles and
soft-shell crabs. At one stall, diners sample
chicken skewers in a spicy peanut sauce.
Next door, the chef stirs a vat of deep-fried
fishballs, while his wife fries up house crickets,
bamboo worms and giant water bugs to
a crunchy crisp, and tosses in salt and spices.
It’s loud, chaotic and packed with office
workers, teenagers, sightseers, families and
locals, all eager to taste the evening’s offerings.
At her curry stall, Kanokwan Teplert
cooks recipes handed down from her
mother and grandmother – dishes
like khua kling, a fragrant dry meat curry,
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1. Chicken skewers
sizzle before meeting
their satay sauce
2. Tam creates someone’s
perfect cup of coffee at
Roots in TheCOMMONS

1 2

and gaeng phed gaang, a spicy red curry cooked

with coconut milk. “People travel from all over
Bangkok to eat our curries,” she says. “We give
them the home-cooked taste they remember
from their childhood.”
As night falls and neon lights begin to blink
overhead, diners migrate south towards
Yaowarat Road, a traffic-thronged
thoroughfare in Chinatown. Here, street carts

BUG’S LIFE
specialise in Thai-Chinese cuisine – crispy-
skinned roast duck, spicy curries and steamed
pork dumplings. Smoke plumes out from
the canvas awnings and the warm air is thick
with the aroma of barbecuing meat, hot oil
and frying spices. By dawn, the diners will have
eaten, the streets will have been swept and
the stalls will have pulled up their shutters – but
MIXED BAG OF FRIED INSECTS,
tomorrow night, the feast will begin again.
20 BAHT (` 45)
PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY

¶ TheCOMMONS: www.thecommonsbkk.com
¶ Roots Coffee: www.rootsbkk.com; from ` 195
¶ Rot Fai Ratchada Night Market:
Ratchadaphisek Rd; from ` 100
¶ Yaowarat Rd: from ` 100
Each stall uses its own special sauce and spice
blend. We found a mixed bag of bamboo worms,
silkworms and crickets was the easiest to swallow –
they’re crispy, crunchy and not bad with a cold beer
 LAST-MINUTE WINTER CENTRAL THAILAND

STAY
The smart Shanghai
1. The Shanghai
Mansion House has
served as a Chinese
Mansion House opera house, stock
hotel, built in 1892, is in exchange and
department store
the heart of Chinatown,
3. Seafood is a draw
surrounded by the street
at Rot Fai Ratchada
stalls and flashing neon Night Market
lights along Yaowarat 2. Kanokwan Teplert
Road. The hotel serves up her
offers complimentary family’s recipes
reflexology treatments,
guided Chinatown
walks and a dim
sum high tea (www.
shanghaimansion.com;
from ` 6,500).

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Cross the River Khwae as you follow the Burma Railway in
Kanchanaburi
A
T 7.45AM EVERY MORNING,
a train clanks out of Bangkok’s
railway station, clattering
through the sprawling
suburbs, past rural villages
and waterlogged paddy fields. Three hours
later, it slows to a crawl near the town of
Kanchanaburi, where crowds of tourists
are waiting to greet it, cameras at the ready.
With a blare of its horn, it creeps over a rusty
iron bridge, its passengers hanging out of
the windows, snapping pictures of the broad,
brown river as it glides past. On the opposite
bank it picks up speed, rolling on for 80km
to Nam Tok, 32km east of the Myanmar border.
What makes this train special is not the
engine that drives it, nor the carriages it pulls,
nor the scenery through which it passes. It’s the
river which it crosses: the Khwae. Seventy-five
years ago, this river and its tributaries were
traversed by the infamous Burma Railway,
often known as the Death Railway, which
thousands of Allied prisoners were forced
by their Japanese captors to construct along
420km, from Bangkok to Rangoon. Between
The correct Thai way to pronounce
the River Khwae is ‘kweh’, to rhyme
with ‘meh’. It’s not ‘kwy’ or ‘kway’
1942 and 1943, 60,000 prisoners and 1,80,000
Asian labourers were involved in the railway’s
construction; by the war’s end, a third of the
prisoners and half the labourers had died from
disease, starvation, exhaustion or execution.
Immortalised in David Lean’s Oscar-winning
1957 film, the bridge over the River Khwae at
Kanchanaburi has become a place of pilgrimage
and remembrance, although little remains of the
original bridge, which was bombed by the Allies
in 1945; the current steel bridge is the product of
rebuilding following the Armistice. And, while
much of the film’s plot might have been fictional,
the events on which it was based were all too
real. Downriver from the bridge is the Don-Rak
War Cemetery, where the graves of 6,982
Commonwealth and Dutch soldiers lie in orderly
rows, bordered by tropical flowers and neatly
trimmed lawns. It’s the largest war cemetery in
Kanchanaburi, an oasis of peace from the town’s
clamouring markets and grumbling traffic.
But the most moving site is 72km northwest
at Konyu Cutting, otherwise known as Hellfire
Pass. Deep in the jungle, half-obscured by
groves of bamboo and palms, this 85-foot-deep
‘KHWAE’
The rebuilt steel bridge
over the River Khwae
cutting was built to carry the track through
an impassable slab of rock, hacked out by
hand by the prisoners using picks and drills,
along with sticks of gelignite. Lost after
the war, it was rediscovered in 1983 by Tom
Morris, an Australian ex-POW, and has now
become a memorial to the young servicemen
who lived, toiled and died here, covered
with tattered flags, poppy wreaths and
black-and-white photos of the fallen.
Mick Clarke is the manager of the Hellfire
Pass Memorial Museum, a sleek white
building that hovers over the dense jungle
above the pass. Financed by the Australian
government, it places the site in context
with exhibitions, artefacts and a moving
audio-guide read by ex-POWs. “There’s an
atmosphere down in the pass that’s hard
to describe,” Mick says, looking out from the
museum’s viewing platform, extending out
over the treetops. “You can almost feel the
presence of the men walking alongside you.
War is always hell, but here at Hellfire Pass,
it was more hellish than any of us could
possibly imagine.”
 LAST-MINUTE WINTER CAMBODIA

DETOUR
Named after the three-
headed white elephant
of Hindu mythology,
Erawan National
Park is famous for its
seven tiers of
waterfalls. Several
have shady pools,
ideal for a swim.

PO Ws and labourers
were forced to cut
through the STAY
Home Phutoey Resort sits above

85-foot deep solid rock a picturesque bend in the Khwae, with

a backdrop of craggy karst hills. Its timber-

using only hand tools
framed lodges are spread along winding
paths shaded by jungle trees – the best have
a grandstand view over the river, spectacular at
sunrise. There’s also a small lake, a zip-wire and
a heated pool (www.homephutoeyriverkwai.com;
lodges from ` 3,200).

Konyu Cutting, or
Hellfire Pass, was cut out
by hand by prisoners
and got its name from ¶Don-Rak War Cemetery: 284/66 Sangchuto
the infernal sight of them Rd; admission free
working through the ¶Hellfire Pass: www.hellfirepass.in.th;
night by torchlight admission free
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Step back in time among

the temples and chedis of
Ayuthaya

O
N THE CHAO PHRAYA
River, in the holy city
“It’s so peaceful
of Ayuthaya, a procession
of nuns is on it's way here. I can forget
to morning prayer. Dressed
in white robes, they file into the courtyard the worries of
of Wat Mae Young and sit cross-legged
on the dusty stone floor, closing their eyes everyday life
as they begin their meditation. Sunlight
creeps over the flagstones, but the women and concentrate
remain as still as statues: some for minutes,
others for half an hour or more. on more
“It is so peaceful here,” explains Sawitree
Phumai, as she breaks from her practice
under the shade of a bodhi tree. She was born
important things”
near Ayuthaya and returns every year for
a meditation retreat. “I can forget the worries
of everyday life and concentrate on more
important things. The only way to discover
happiness is to find it within your own mind.”
There’s a reason Sawitree and her fellow
nuns have chosen Ayuthaya for their religious
retreat. Founded in 1350, Ayuthaya served as
the political and religious centre of Thailand
for 400 years. It was home to 33 generations
of Thai kings, who constructed temples,

PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY

1. White-robed nuns on their

way to morning prayer
2. The three chedis at Wat Phra
Si Sanphet were built
to hold the ashes of kings
 LAST-MINUTE WINTER CAMBODIA

The large size

of the buildings
at Ayuthaya give
an indication
of how rich
and advanced
this city was
for its time
PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY

2
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1 1. Head detail of the reclining

Buddha at Wat Lokaya Sutha
2. Incense and orchids are
brought as a temple offering

GOLDEN BUDDHA
For a glimpse of what Ayuthaya’s temples would have
originally looked like, we headed to Wat Na Phra
Meru, one of the few structures to have survived
the city’s destruction largely unscathed. Inside is
Ayuthaya’s only golden Buddha, Phra Buddha Nimitr
Vichit Maramoli Sishanpeth Boromtrailokanat,
an impressive 19ft 6in high and 14ft 4in wide.

monasteries, religious halls, cemeteries, At Wat Mahathat, prang (towers) rise up from leave bunches of lotuses and orchids on the dais,
statues and chedis – the structures that held a courtyard that’s overgrown with creepers and place a square of gold leaf on the Buddha as
religious relics – over the 740 acres within and tree roots; a Buddha statue rests cross- they pray for health, wealth and happiness.
its red-brick walls. But, in 1767, the Burmese legged before them, serene and enigmatic, Later, as dusk cloaks the city, pilgrims
army swept through the city, setting its contemplating the mysteries of existence. gather to watch the sunset at Wat Phra
temples ablaze, and Across the courtyard, another Si Sanphet, where three stone chedis rise
Ayuthaya was left in Buddha statue has been skywards like witches’ hats, each topped
2
smouldering ruins. swallowed up by a bodhi tree, its face by a stone spire. As the sun bleeds red
Subsequently, a new staring out from the tangled roots – an into the river and swifts wheel around
capital was established Ozymandian lesson on the the domes, monks in orange robes pad
80km downriver at impermanence of all things. silently into the courtyard, kneel and
Thonburi, in present-day Nearby at Wat Lokaya begin their evening prayers – a custom
Bangkok. Had history Sutha, another Buddha unchanged for seven centuries.
taken a different course, reclines, stretching out on
Ayuthaya would be a rival his side, shrouded from head ¶Wat Mae Young: Han Tra ; entry ` 100
to Bagan or Angkor Wat to toe in an orange robe, his ¶Wat Mahathat:
in terms of architectural head resting on lotus buds. Th Chee Kun; entry ` 100
splendour – but, even in its At 40 metres long, it is Ayuthaya’s ¶Wat Lokayasutharam:
semi-ruined state, its maze largest Buddha statue and pilgrims off Th Khlong Thaw; entry free
of tumbledown temples possess line up to make offerings, waiting ¶Wat Phra Si Sanphet:
an aura of magic and mystery. patiently to light incense sticks, Khlong Tho Rd; entry ` 100
 LAST-MINUTE WINTER CENTRAL THAILAND

Escape to the
unspoilt island of
Ko Kut
and its idyllic white
beaches

T
HE CHUG OF BOAT MOTORS
announces the return
of the fishermen of Ko Kut
(also known as Koh Kood).
They’ve been out all night
at sea, and are heading back to port just after
dawn to unload their catch. Gradually, the
outline of an island appears on the horizon:
high and rugged, its craggy silhouette covered
in forest, rising from a turquoise sea. Soon,
white crescents begin to stud the shoreline:
some wide and curving, others small and
moon-shaped, all backed by tropical jungle.
The fishermen don’t pay them any mind –
their focus is on unloading the night’s catch
– but for most people approaching Ko Kut,
they’re the reason for coming here.
Even in a country as beach-blessed as
Thailand, the bays and coves of Ko Kut stand
out for special mention. The southernmost
and second-largest of a small archipelago
PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY

Ao Phrao beach on
Ko Kut’s west coast
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Fishing boats at Ao Yai

on Ko Kut
Facing page:
1. Aumboon holding
a horseshoe crab
2. Cocktails at
Shantaa Resort
3. Paradise Beach Resort’s
facilities inclue a gym,
restaurant, palm garden
and a large, orange-tiled
swimming pool

PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY

 LAST-MINUTE WINTER CENTRAL THAILAND

a 75-minute boat ride south of Trat, Ko Kut

is rightly cited as one of Thailand’s most
unspoiled islands. Still largely owned
by local families, it has only a fraction of the
development of nearby Ko Mak and Ko Chang,
and much of its coastline is undeveloped.
Most of the resorts are clustered around
Ao Ta Pao and Klong Chao, twin golden
curves etched out from the island’s west coast,
where kayakers scull over the blue water,
children snorkel in the shallows, and
sunbathers sip coconut shakes and cocktails
in thatched beach bars. But to reach Ko Kut’s
most secluded sands, some effort – and the
services of a motor scooter – is necessary.
A snaking, humpbacked road runs along
the west coast, passing through villages where
island life goes on, unhurried and untroubled
by the outside world. Seen from the seat of a
scooter, roadside stalls flash past, stacked with
coconuts, mangoes, bananas and papayas.
STAY
Behind the golden
1 2

Farmers work among their rubber trees, sands of Ao Ta Pao,

tapping the bark for latex. Smoke drifts across 3
on one of the west
the road from backyard bonfires and monkeys coast’s best beaches,
skitter amongst the palm-tops, chattering and Paradise Beach
hooting in shrill, scattergun calls. And, from Resort makes a
time to time, a cove or white beach flashes into great base for
view through the trees – patches of paradise exploring Koh Kood.
sifting into a teal-coloured sea. Accessed via a
Ao Phrao is one of them. On Ko Kut’s south wooden boarwalk,
coast, and accessed via a rutted, sandy track, its A-frame
it’s deserted save for a few beach bungalows, bungalows are small
and a favourite place for the islanders and comfortable
to hold their own beachside parties and (www.kohkood
evening barbecues. paradisebeach.com;
For Aumboon, it’s also her local beach. lodges from `12,000).
She lives at the fishermen’s village of Ao Yai,
a couple of miles east, where she works in her
family’s seafood restaurant. “To us, the island
is home, so it’s easy to take it for granted,”
she says, dangling her legs over the village pier,
watching shoals of fish billow around the
stanchions. “But when I have been away
from Ko Kut, as soon as my feet touch NOOCHY
the sand, I know at once that
I’m home.”
Dishes don’t get any
Along the pier, children from fresher than at Aumboon’s
the village are taking turns
to dive-bomb into the water, family restaurant in Ao Yai,
sending up columns of spray run by her Aunt Noochy –
as the fishermen unload
their catch. Aumboon heads all the seafood on the menu come
off to see what they have for
sale this morning, padding
straight off the fishing boats.
along the rickety boardwalk We loved the king prawns
as she watches a longtail boat
buzzing out across in a rich red curry sauce
the bay.
(00-66-86-113-3379;
¶Scooter hire mains from ` 500).
(from ` 600/ day)
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Leave the crowds Jungle Fever

Trekking guide

behind with a hike

Laem standing
next to a huge
krabok tree

into the jungle on

Ko
Chang
“
W
ATCH YOUR
step,” advises Suttiwat
‘Laem’ Chomtiwang
of Jungle Fever
Trekking, as he hikes
along a boulder-strewn ravine zigzagging up
through the rainforest. Overhead, jungle birds
chatter and whistle in the treetops, and the rattle
of running water echoes down the canyon.
With the grace of a mountain goat, he skips over
boulders and shimmies along ledges, before
reaching his objective: a deep, clear pool, fed
by a cascade tumbling down from the
mountainside. “This is Klong Plu,” he says,
settling down on a rock for lunch. “It is my favourite
spot to swim, as long as you don’t mind the fish
nibbling your feet.”
He munches on some mango and looks up
through the rainforest canopy. A blanket of green
trees reaches skywards, carpeting the hillsides all
the way up to the ragged mountaintops, laced with
ribbons of cloud. “Only one in 1,000 people who visit
Ko Chang experience this side of the island,” Laem
continues, dangling his feet into the pool, attracting
a cloud of fish that darts and flurries around his toes.
“Most of the time, I have it to myself – and, if I’m
honest, I would like it to stay that way!”
The second-largest island in Thailand after
Phuket, Ko Chang has become a favourite escape
for beach-seekers and backpackers looking for
an accessible island getaway. In recent years, the
east coast has developed rapidly and is now home
to a string of resorts, restaurants and beachside bars
– but, inland, the mountainous interior remains
wild and unexplored, accessed only by a few guides

“It is very easy to get lost. I have

been hiking here for 10 years
and I know all the paths, but
PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY

I still sometimes have to stop and

think about where I am.
The forest changes all the time”
 Salak Phet
LAST-MINUTE WINTER CAMBODIA

is Ko Chang’s
highest point

The jungle here offers

an experience away from most
holidaymakers, but should only
be attempted with a guide

knowledgeable enough to navigate the faint jungle

trails. Waterfalls such as Than Mayom, Klong Nonsi
and Klong Neung make popular trekking targets,
providing a cooling swim at the end of a hot, sweaty
jungle walk – but the hardiest hikers tackle Ko
Chang’s toughest challenge, the eight-hour scramble
to the island’s highest point, Salak Phet. At 744m,
it’s a slog, but offers access to Ko Chang’s most

STAY
Set back from the
pristine rainforest and sightings of its rarest wildlife,
from stump-tailed macaques and silvered lemurs to
hornbills, sunbirds, bulbuls and kingfishers.
main road along It’s also essential to hike it with a guide, as the
the island’s west jungle trails are hard to follow and rarely trodden.
coast, Santhiya “It is very easy to get lost,” Laem emphasises. “I have
Tree Resort is been hiking here for 10 years and I know all the paths,
but I still sometimes have to stop and think about

ELEPHANT TEMPLE
one of the top
places to stay on Ko where I am. The forest changes all the time;
Chang, with a trail that is easy to follow one week can be
Ko Chang’s nickname, ‘Elephant Island’, is said to come from luxurious lodges completely overgrown by the next.”
its resemblance to the head of a sleeping elephant when seen arranged around He stops beside the trunk of a krabok tree, and runs
from out at sea and from the wild elephants who once lived a lovely garden his hands over the roots that grow around the trunk
here in abundance. Ornate carved elephants decorate shaded by palms like steel buttresses. “We must treat nature with
the Chao Por elephant shrine, which is on the hill above with a good respect,” he says. “We are only visitors and we should
the main ferry port at the northern end of the island. restaurant always leave the forest as we found it.”
Its pachyderm figures range from impressive statues overlooking the He tramps off into the trees, mimicking the whoops
to tiny trinkets. We were also pretty awed beach. The lodges of birds as he clears a path through the undergrowth.
by the dragon-tail bannister staircase have teak floors, Before long, he’s engulfed by jungle and the trail looks
we took to reach the temple. canopy beds and as though no-one had ever passed.
garden-like
bathrooms (www. ¶Jungle Fever Trekking: www.junglefever.in.th;
santhiya.com; from half-day tour: ` 1,550
` 15,500). ¶Raht Trekking: www.rahtkohchangtrekking
blogspot.co.uk; full-day hike up Salak Phet: ` 2,700
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Essentials
BEST TIME TO VISIT
For the best weather, go between
November and March, when
the climate is warm and dry, and
the landscape lush. Be aware that
the Christmas season brings crowds
and inflated rates. April and May
are generally very hot and dry
(although coastal breezes provide
natural air-con). The monsoon
season begins around late June.
GETTING THERE
Air India, Jet Airways and Sri Lankan
Airlines regularly fly from major
Indian cities like Mumbai, New Delhi
and Bangalore to Bangkok.
Flight time is around 4 hours
(return fares from ` 18,000).
WHAT’S MY ROUTE?
From your starting point in Bangkok,
it’s 145km to Kanchanaburi (3½
hours by bus, or 2½ hours by car;
www.rentalcars.com; car rentals from
` 14,500/ day). From there, it’s
another 2½ hours to Ayuthaya.
If you’re using public transport, return
to Bangkok: Ayuthaya is an easy day
trip from there. To reach the Ko
Chang archipelago, it’s best to fly
from Bangkok to the town of Trat
(www.bangkokairways.com; around
` 9,000 one-way), from where you
can catch taxis or minibuses to the
relevant boat pier. Explore Koh
Chang offers a handy one-stop
shop for island transfers
(www.explorekohchang.com).
Boats run from the mainland and
between the islands year-round but
services are much reduced during
the monsoon season.
WHAT SHOULD I BUDGET?
Thailand is a relatively cheap place
to travel, especially away from the
main tourist spots. Local restaurants
are super value: a main dish
generally costs ` 400 to ` 600,
while a bottle of Singha or Chang
beer is around ` 150. You’ll find
yourself paying substantially more
at restaurants and hotels aimed at
Western visitors. A room in a hostel
costs as little as ` 1,000 to ` 1,500
per night; mid-range hotels are likely
to be ` 4,000 to ` 6,000. Note that
many sights and attractions charge
a premium for farang (foreigners).
WHO CAN HELP ME PLAN?
Hayes & Jarvis has been in
the business for six decades; its
specialist destination experts can
advise on how best to personalise
a tour to your budget and interests.
The 12-night Central Thailand trip
follows a similar itinerary to the one
covered in our Perfect Trip. It includes
top-end accommodation throughout:
three nights at Bangkok’s Shanghai
Mansion, two nights on a River
Kwai Float House Tour and a seven-
night stay at the beachfront retreat
Santhiya Tree Koh Chang.
The trip also includes a day’s
excursion on Ko Chang and
all flights and transfers
(www.hayesandjarvis.co.uk; from
` 1,95,000).
WHERE CAN I GET
MORE INFORMATION?
Our Thailand guidebook
(` 1,800) covers this
itinerary in its chapters
on Bangkok & around,
Central Thailand
and Ko Chang &
Eastern Seaboard,
all of which can
be downloaded as
chapters. (www.
lonelyplanet.
com; ` 300).
Bangkok is
covered in the
Lonely Planet Guides app
(free from app stores).
EMBASSY ALERT
Embassy of India,
Bangkok - Thailand:
www.embassyofindiabangkok.gov.in
VISA
Indian passport holders
are eligible for visa on arrival.
The process generally takes about 3
to 4 hours.
VEG OUT/ FANCY
A CURRY?
Try the vegetarian fare at Amritsr
for a marvellous experience. The
smiling staff and the ambience will
make your visit just better (66-206-62-
2122; www.amritsr.com; Soi Sukhumvit
22, Khwaeng Khlong Tan, Khet Khlong
Toei, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon;
Amritsari cholle from ` 550)
FURTHER INFO
You could also pick up the Lonely
Planet Thailand For
The Indian Traveler (` 400)
guide for more information.

TEMPLE
ETIQUETTE WHAT WE LEARNED
ALONG THE WAY
Dress properly when visiting temples.
The rule of thumb is to make sure you
cover shoulders and knees (definitely
no bikinis or bare chests). Remember
to remove your shoes before entering, ¶Most restaurants dial back the spice
be respectful of other worshippers,
level for Western palates. If you prefer
and never climb on the it hot, say ‘pet pet’ or ask for it
Buddha statues. to be served ‘Thai spicy’.

¶At meal times, it’s customary to order

several sharing dishes. Take small

ILLUSTRATIONS: KATE SUTTON. PHOTOGRAPH: JONATHAN STOKES

helpings of each (taking too much
at once is impolite), and eat from your
spoon, not your fork. If you can,
use your right hand to eat, as the left
hand is considered less clean.

¶Don’t touch the top of anyone’s head

or point at anything with your feet –
both are considered very rude
in Thailand.
NOVEMBER 2018

Mini Guides

Go shopping in Milan, Italy

Escape to Darjeeling,
West Bengal

Discover historic
Oxford, Great Britain

1 2 3
Fold 2

FOLD the guide

Fold 2

FROM YOUR
THE COAST OF VICTORIA THAT
RUNS WEST FROM MELBOURNE Fold 2
THE COAST OF VICTORIA THAT
IS A LANDSCAPE OF WAVE-SCOURED
CLIFFS WATCHED BY PROUD OF VICTORIA
THAT RUNS WEST FROM MELBOURNE
THE COAST FROM MELBOURNE

along the first

LIGHTHOUSES, BUT ALSO BEACH RUNS WEST E OF WAVE-SCOURED IS A LANDSCAPE OF WAVE-SCOURED
TOWNS WITH GREAT EATERIES – IS A LANDSCAP BY PROUD

AS YOU’LL DISCOVER ALONG

CLIFFS WATCHEDBUT ALSO BEACH
LIGHTHOUS
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GREAT EATERIES
– CLIFFS WATCHED BY PROUD
ITS FAMOUS DRIVING ROUTE. TOWNS WITH
DISCOVER
ALONG
AS YOU’LL DRIVING ROUTE. LIGHTHOUSES, BUT ALSO BEACH
MINI GUIDE OCTOBER 2018
WHY GO?
ITS FAMOUS
TOWNS WITH GREAT EATERIES –

MAGAZINE
To explore Australia’s natural beauty, 2018 WHY GO? natural beauty,

AS YOU’LL DISCOVER ALONG

TAKING ON
Australia’s
OCTOBER To explore
culinary scene
and
discover the culinary scene and MINI GUIDE discover the
surfing skills
to test your
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TAKING ON
DO?
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dotted lines…
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WHAT IS THERE TO DO?
RALIAGUIDE OCTOBER 2018
a grand road-trip,
Round up the squad and take MINI
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drinks by the

GREAT OCE
a grand road-trip, soak up
WHY GO?
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TEAR the guide

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AUSTRALIA’S
marine wildlife such as Australian fur seals, SIGHTS Be whisked
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at this outstanding
tavern. Mezze
WHAT IS THERE TO DO?
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dolphins and whales. AUSTRALIAN 1 modern Greek
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apple, celery
In this well-curated to Australian cuttlefish with
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that pays homageSimon Anderson’s and a lime

FOLD
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awesome air- m.au;
relax with a
Fold 1 Mark Richard’s
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list (www.alagrecque.coRd, Aireys Kick back and
AUSTRALIAN NATIONAL Á LA GRECQUE 4
Fold 2
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Surfing Hall
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and Australia’s great memorabilia even
60 Great Ocean` 1,500).
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wine at Brae
some sun and enjoy a few
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Bells Beach surfer
if you aren’t
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the
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Regarded as
one of Australia’s
uses
drinks by the sea.
wooden longboard), Overlooking this glassed- Brae mostly
on surf culture a great and ocean, best restaurants, its 30
that pays homage to Australian modern Greek tavern. Mezze and there’s of the river growing in

ROAD
and displays ‘80s café-bar is
right
whatever is
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on the waterfront. super-food
Left: Erosion has shaped and unshaped
(www.australiannatio Rd, concoctions.
some delightful
dotted lines

77, Beach
the full circle
from tasting menu
ground-breaking 1981 thruster, cuttlefish with apple, celery museum.com; Torquay;
BELLS BEACH
3
water to dirty burgers, serves an eight-course flavours
smoothie bowls a mix of sharing daily, with
Mark Richard’s awesome air- and a lime dressing, and mains
Surf City Plaza,
entry: ` 840).
Apart from
its crystal-clear
sand, Bells
Beach while mains
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reflecting what with regional
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out along the

and golden enthusiats. bar food. Expect
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likes of Southern
THE COAST OF VICTORIA THAT
BAY OF ISLANDS point break
seafood linguine wines. It’s a
regular
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and Australia’s Surfing Hall of are sensational. So is the wine PARK 2 crowd of international
Beach is part If you know
crab burgers,
steaks. It’s the
definitive Best 100 restaurants.

Fame. It’s full of great memorabilia list (www.alagrecque.com.au; If you want

to ditch the
on the view, surfing folklore. get
and Wagyu
sundowner
with its
the World’s
Reservations
are essential,
and need
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place for a
RUNS WEST FROM MELBOURNE
without compromising a surf board, well in advance.
here then fold

beer
to Bay of Islands how to work wave or two wine list, local to be made (www.
dolphins and whales.
TURN OVER FOR MAP AND NUMBER LOCATIONS
(including Duke Kahanamoku’s 60 Great Ocean Rd, Aireys head on down a all-Bellarine menu a table here
ready to ride surf and turf want to score

again to
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Coastal Park. the long right-hander selection and
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west of Port
Campbell), here. When longest m.au; Ewing braerestaurant.com;

IS A LANDSCAPE OF WAVE-SCOURED
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(seven miles Bay of Martyrs

and it’s one of the (www.attheheads.co
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Birregurra).
if you aren’t a surfer wine at Brae

POCKET…
is working, it’s a
country, but Blyth Rd, aka
views comparable to the Twelve wave for experienced surfers, Blyth Rd, aka Jetty Rd, Barwon braerestaurant.com; 4285, Cape
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both have
lookout
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surfers, Heads; mains NUMBER LOCATIONS
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Bay of Islands sweeping

stacks and wave for experienced MAP AND
points of rock stacks and sweeping rides in the country, but it’s a (www.attheheads.com.au; Ewing want to score a table here (www.
through the 1960s to the ‘80s AT THE HEADS 5 their rail game.
CLIFFS WATCHED BY PROUD SIGHTS EATING
points of rock to the Twelve mastered TURN OVER FOR
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views comparable fantastic

Bay of Islands both have lookout is working, it’s one of the longest selection and surf and turf menu to be made well in advance. If you
(www.australiannationalsurfing coastal walks, and there’s a great Overlooking the confluence BRAE 6
page here

museum.com; 77, Beach Rd,
Surf City Plaza, Torquay;
entry: ` 840).
beach at Crofts Bay. of the river and ocean, this glassed-
in weatherboard café-bar is right
BELLS BEACH 3 on the waterfront. Breakfast does
have
the lesser-visited Bay of Martyrs and here. When the long right-hander all-Bellarine wine list, local beer Reservations are essential, and need Apostles. Both
Regarded as one of Australia’s
best restaurants, Brae mostly uses
(seven miles west of Port Campbell),
LIGHTHOUSES, BUT ALSO BEACH
ready to ride a wave or two place for a sundowner with its the World’s Best 100 restaurants.
AUSTRALIAN NATIONAL Á LA GRECQUE 4
Fold 1
TOWNS WITH GREAT EATERIES –
Coastal Park. Past Peterborough how to work a surf board, get and Wagyu steaks. It’s the definitive wines. It’s a regular on the list of
whatever is growing in its 30
SURFING MUSEUM 1 Be whisked away to the
then fold

head on down to Bay of Islands surfing folklore. If you know crab burgers, seafood linguine Food is matched with regional
Apart from its crystal-clear water the full circle from super-food acres of organic gardens to create
AS YOU’LL DISCOVER ALONG
without compromising on the view, Beach is part of international likes of Southern fried soft shell reflecting what grows in the area.

perforations…
BAY OF ISLANDS COASTAL and golden sand, Bells Beach smoothie bowls to dirty burgers, some delightful concoctions. It If you want to ditch the crowd The powerful point break at Bells plates and bar food. Expect the that changes daily, with flavours In this well-curated museum Mediterranean at this outstanding
PARK 2 is a mecca for surfing enthusiats. while mains are a mix of sharing serves an eight-course tasting menu
ITS FAMOUS DRIVING ROUTE. that pays homage to Australian modern Greek tavern. Mezze
PARK 2 is a mecca for surfing enthusiats. while mains are a mix of sharing serves an eight-course tasting menu
along the

If you want to ditch the crowd The powerful point break at Bells plates and bar food. Expect the that changes daily, with flavours BAY OF ISLANDS COASTAL and golden sand, Bells Beach smoothie bowls to dirty burgers, some delightful concoctions. It
surfing, you’ll see Simon Anderson’s such as seared scallops or braised
MINI GUIDE OCTOBER 2018
without compromising on the view, Beach is part of international likes of Southern fried soft shell reflecting what grows in the area. Apart from its crystal-clear water the full circle from super-food acres of organic gardens to create

head on down to Bay of Islands
Coastal Park. Past Peterborough
surfing folklore. If you know
how to work a surf board, get
crab burgers, seafood linguine
and Wagyu steaks. It’s the definitive
make a handy,
Food is matched with regional
wines. It’s a regular on the list of
entry: ` 840).
WHY GO?
BELLS BEACH 3 on the waterfront. Breakfast does whatever is growing in its 30
ground-breaking 1981 thruster, cuttlefish with apple, celery
dotted lines

Surf City Plaza, Torquay; in weatherboard café-bar is right best restaurants, Brae mostly uses
(seven miles west of Port Campbell), ready to ride a wave or two place for a sundowner with its the World’s Best 100 restaurants. To explore Australia’s natural beauty, Mark Richard’s awesome air- and a lime dressing, and mains

the lesser-visited Bay of Martyrs and
Bay of Islands both have lookout
points of rock stacks and sweeping
views comparable to the Twelve
here. When the long right-hander
is working, it’s one of the longest
rides in the country, but it’s a
wave for experienced surfers,
all-Bellarine wine list, local beer
selection and surf and turf menu
(www.attheheads.com.au; Ewing
Blyth Rd, aka Jetty Rd, Barwon
TAKING ON
museum.com; 77, Beach Rd, beach at Crofts Bay. of the river and ocean, this glassed- Regarded as one of Australia’s
Reservations are essential, and need
to be made well in advance. If you
(www.australiannationalsurfing discover the culinary scene and
coastal walks, and there’s a great Overlooking the confluence BRAE 6
brushed board art collection, such as grilled pork shoulder,
to test your surfing skills
through the 1960s to the ‘80s
and Australia’s Surfing Hall of are sensational. So is the wine
AT THE HEADS 5
want to score a table here (www. and displays on surf culture
if you aren’t a surfer wine at Brae
braerestaurant.com; 4285, Cape Fame. It’s full of great memorabilia list (www.alagrecque.com.au;

Apostles. Both have fantastic
who’ve mastered their rail game.
Heads; mains from ` 2,000).
TURN OVER FOR MAP AND NUMBER LOCATIONS
AUSTRALIA’S
wooden longboard), videos
Otway Rd, Birregurra). (including Duke Kahanamoku’s
Fame. It’s full of great memorabilia
and Australia’s Surfing Hall of
Bells Beach is worth visiting, even
WHAT IS THERE TO DO?
Round up the squad and take
a grand road-trip, soak up
Inlet; mains from ` 1,500).
60 Great Ocean Rd, Aireys
list (www.alagrecque.com.au;
are sensational. So is the wine
Kick back and relax with a glass of
(including Duke Kahanamoku’s 60 Great Ocean Rd, Aireys
wooden longboard), videos Bells Beach is worth visiting, even Inlet; mains from ` 1,500). Kick back and relax with a glass of
if you aren’t a surfer wine at Brae

GREAT OCEAN
brushed board art collection,
Mark Richard’s awesome air-
and displays on surf culture
such as grilled pork shoulder,
some sun and enjoy a few and a lime dressing, and mains
drinks by the sea. through the 1960s to the ‘80s AT THE HEADS 5

pocket-size guide.
ground-breaking 1981 thruster, cuttlefish with apple, celery
Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines

(www.australiannationalsurfing coastal walks, and there’s a great Overlooking the confluence BRAE 6
surfing, you’ll see Simon Anderson’s such as seared scallops or braised

ROAD
that pays homage to Australian modern Greek tavern. Mezze
In this well-curated museum Left: Erosion has shaped and unshaped Mediterranean at this outstanding museum.com; 77, Beach Rd, beach at Crofts Bay. of the river and ocean, this glassed- Regarded as one of Australia’s
the famous Twelve Apostles
SURFING MUSEUM 1 Be whisked away to the
Surf City Plaza, Torquay; in weatherboard café-bar is right best restaurants, Brae mostly uses
AUSTRALIAN NATIONAL Right: If you’re lucky, you’ll encounter Á LA GRECQUE 4
Fold 1
marine wildlife such as Australian fur seals,
EATING SIGHTS entry: ` 840). BELLS BEACH 3 on the waterfront. Breakfast does whatever is growing in its 30
dolphins and whales. Apart from its crystal-clear water the full circle from super-food acres of organic gardens to create
BAY OF ISLANDS COASTAL and golden sand, Bells Beach smoothie bowls to dirty burgers, some delightful concoctions. It
SIGHTS EATING PARK 2 is a mecca for surfing enthusiats. while mains are a mix of sharing serves an eight-course tasting menu
dolphins and whales.
marine wildlife such as Australian fur seals,
Right: If you’re lucky, you’ll encounter
ROAD Fold 1 If you want to ditch the crowd The powerful point break at Bells plates and bar food. Expect the that changes daily, with flavours
AUSTRALIAN NATIONAL Á LA GRECQUE 4
without compromising on the view, Beach is part of international likes of Southern fried soft shell reflecting what grows in the area.
the famous Twelve Apostles
SURFING MUSEUM 1 Be whisked away to the
Left: Erosion has shaped and unshaped

In this well-curated museum Mediterranean at this outstanding

that pays homage to Australian
surfing, you’ll see Simon Anderson’s
ground-breaking 1981 thruster,
Mark Richard’s awesome air-
brushed board art collection,
and Australia’s Surfing Hall of
Fame. It’s full of great memorabilia
(including Duke Kahanamoku’s
wooden longboard), videos
and displays on surf culture
ITS FAMOUS DRIVING ROUTE.
through the 1960s to the ‘80s
Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines
GREAT OCEAN head on down to Bay of Islands surfing folklore. If you know crab burgers, seafood linguine Food is matched with regional
Coastal Park. Past Peterborough how to work a surf board, get and Wagyu steaks. It’s the definitive wines. It’s a regular on the list of
drinks by the sea.
modern Greek tavern. Mezze
some sun and enjoy a few
such as seared scallops or braised
a grand road-trip, soak up (seven miles west of Port Campbell), ready to ride a wave or two place for a sundowner with its the World’s Best 100 restaurants.
cuttlefish with apple, celery
Round up the squad and take AUSTRALIA’S the lesser-visited Bay of Martyrs and here. When the long right-hander all-Bellarine wine list, local beer Reservations are essential, and need
WHAT IS THERE TO DO? and a lime dressing, and mains
such as grilled pork shoulder,
Bay of Islands both have lookout is working, it’s one of the longest selection and surf and turf menu to be made well in advance. If you
to test your surfing skills are sensational. So is the wine
TAKING ON points of rock stacks and sweeping rides in the country, but it’s a (www.attheheads.com.au; Ewing want to score a table here (www.
list (www.alagrecque.com.au; views comparable to the Twelve wave for experienced surfers, Blyth Rd, aka Jetty Rd, Barwon braerestaurant.com; 4285, Cape
discover the culinary scene and
To explore Australia’s natural beauty,
WHY GO? 60 Great Ocean Rd, Aireys Apostles. Both have fantastic who’ve mastered their rail game. Heads; mains from ` 2,000). Otway Rd, Birregurra).
Bells Beach is worth visiting, even Inlet; mains from ` 1,500). Kick back and relax with a glass of
MINI GUIDE OCTOBER 2018
if you aren’t a surfer
wine at Brae TURN OVER FOR MAP AND NUMBER LOCATIONS
AT THE HEADS 5

(www.australiannationalsurfing
AS YOU’LL DISCOVER ALONG
coastal walks, and there’s a great Overlooking the confluence BRAE 6
museum.com; 77, Beach Rd, beach at Crofts Bay.
TOWNS WITH GREAT EATERIES – of the river and ocean, this glassed- Regarded as one of Australia’s
Surf City Plaza, Torquay; LIGHTHOUSES, BUT ALSO BEACH in weatherboard café-bar is right best restaurants, Brae mostly uses
entry: ` 840). BELLS BEACH 3 on the waterfront. Breakfast does whatever is growing in its 30

Send us your recommendations!

CLIFFS WATCHED BY PROUD
Apart from its crystal-clear water
BAY OF ISLANDS COASTAL and golden sand, Bells Beach
IS A LANDSCAPE OF WAVE-SCOURED
PARK 2 is a mecca for surfing enthusiats.
RUNS WEST FROM MELBOURNE
If you want to ditch the crowd The powerful point break at Bells
without compromising on the view,
THE COAST OF VICTORIA THAT
Beach is part of international
head on down to Bay of Islands surfing folklore. If you know
Coastal Park. Past Peterborough how to work a surf board, get
(seven miles west of Port Campbell), ready to ride a wave or two
the lesser-visited Bay of Martyrs and here. When the long right-hander
Bay of Islands both have lookout is working, it’s one of the longest
the full circle from super-food
smoothie bowls to dirty burgers,
while mains are a mix of sharing
plates and bar food. Expect the
likes of Southern fried soft shell
crab burgers, seafood linguine
and Wagyu steaks. It’s the definitive
place for a sundowner with its
all-Bellarine wine list, local beer
Fold 2 selection and surf and turf menu
acres of organic gardens to create
some delightful concoctions. It
serves an eight-course tasting menu
that changes daily, with flavours
reflecting what grows in the area.
Food is matched with regional
wines. It’s a regular on the list of
the World’s Best 100 restaurants.
Reservations are essential, and need
to be made well in advance. If you

Tell us which city you would like a Mini Guide for at lpmagazine@wwm.co.in and it could appear in our next issues
points of rock stacks and sweeping
views comparable to the Twelve
Apostles. Both have fantastic
rides in the country, but it’s a (www.attheheads.com.au; Ewing want to score a table here (www.
wave for experienced surfers, Blyth Rd, aka Jetty Rd, Barwon braerestaurant.com; 4285, Cape
who’ve mastered their rail game. Heads; mains from ` 2,000). Otway Rd, Birregurra).
TURN OVER FOR MAP AND NUMBER LOCATIONS
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MINI GUIDE NOVEMBER 2018
HISTORIC
OXFORD,
GREAT BRITAIN
SIGHTS
ASHMOLEAN MUSEUM 1
Britain’s oldest public museum,
founded in 1683, is a fine example
of neoclassical architecture. Four
floors of bright, spacious galleries
display treasures including Egyptian
mummies, Indian textiles, Islamic
art, rare porcelain, priceless musical
instruments and the Anglo-Saxon
Alfred Jewel (www.ashmolean.org;
Beaumont St).
BODLEIAN LIBRARY 2
The Bodleian is one of the world’s
Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines
oldest public libraries. Visitors can
look around the Jacobean Gothic
Old Schools Quadrangle for free.
You can also visit the exquisite,
fan-vaulted Divinity School, which
featured as the Hogwarts hospital
wing in the Harry Potter films.
Guided tour take in other parts
of the complex, including the
interior of the beautiful Radcliffe
Camera reading room (www.
bodleian.ox.ac.uk; Catte St;
Advance tickets are available
for extended tours only).
PITT RIVERS MUSEUM 3
Hidden behind a back door
The Ashmolean Museum’s architecture
is as delightful as its exhibits
at the Museum of Natural History
(itself worth a visit), this wonderfully
creepy anthropological museum
houses half a million objects from
around the world – Indonesian
carvings, feathered cloaks, blow-
pipes, totem poles, even shrunken
heads. Dim lighting lends an
air of mystery to the glass cases
stuffed with the prized booty of
Victorian explorers. Objects are
mostly divided into themes, rather
than cultures, with subjects such as
‘Smoking’, ‘Weapons’, ‘Body Art’
or ‘Treatment of Dead Enemies’
(a particularly gruesome ensemble)
(www.prm.ox.ac.uk; South Parks Rd).
Fold 2
OXFORD’S HISTORY LIVES NOT
JUST IN ITS STONES (SOME LAID
ALMOST A THOUSAND YEARS AGO),
BUT ALSO IN FAMOUS FORMER
RESIDENTS AND THE LITERARY
WORLDS IT HAS INSPIRED.
WHY GO?
To immerse yourself in Oxford’s rich
history, to explore its many cobbled streets,
and indulge in some good ol’ pub food
WHAT IS THERE TO DO?
Slap on your walking shoes and explore
Oxford on foot, uncover its spooky history,
and end the day with a chilled beer
Left: The Radcliffe Camera – known to students
as the Rad Cam
Right: All that walking is sure to leave
you parched, thankfully Oxford is crawling
with pubs!
EATING
Fold 1
CHIANG MAI KITCHEN 4
Thai ornaments marries surprisingly
well with the wood-and- plaster
interiors of this 1637 house off a little
alley. Real-deal Thai cuisine takes in
curries, a tear-jerkingly hot papaya
salad, and plenty of seafood, rice
and noodle favourites. If you’re
looking for some comfort food to
tuck into after a long day of sight-
seeing, Chiang Mai Kitchen is just
the place (www.chiangmaikitchen. Be warned, Chiang Mai Kitchen
doesn’t go easy on the spice
co.uk; 130a High St; mains from
` 600).
VAULTS & GARDEN CAFE 6
RICKETY PRESS 5 In the 14th-century Old
In the back streets of Jericho, this Congregation House of the
corner pub is loved by locals and University Church, this buzzy
it’ss not hard to see why. Known local favourite serves a wholesome
for it’s rather intresting menu that selection of soups, salads, pastas,
turns out nicely-presented brioche- curries, sandwiches and cakes,
bun burgers, wood-fired pizzas, including plenty of vegetarian
artisan beers, Rickety Press takes and gluten-free options. It’s one
its food rather seriously. While the of Oxford’s most beautiful lunch
menu does come across as pricey venues, with extra tables in a pretty,
(especially for a pub), the quality quaint garden. Arrive early to grab
and taste totally vouch for the price. a seat and do a bit of people-
Rest assured, your taste buds will watching as you tuck into some
want seconds (www.thericketypress. soul food (wwwthevaultsand
com; 67 Cranham St; burgers garden.com; Radcliffe Sq;
from ` 1,000). lunch from ` 1,000).
TURN OVER FOR MAP AND NUMBER LOCATIONS
MINI GUIDE
Historic Oxford, Great Britain
GETTING AROUND
TAKE A WALK
OXFORD COVERED MARKET 7 Once an 18th-century inn,
A haven of traditional butchers,
fishmongers, cobblers, florists,
eateries and independent shops,
this is the place to go for every-
thing from Sicilian sausage to silly
T-shirts. Take a moment to take in
all the sights and sounds, even
if it does seem overwelhming.
If you’re able to brace yourself,
be sure to treat yourself and join
the queue at Ben’s Cookies – the
company’s original outlet (www.
oxford-coveredmarket.co.uk;
Market St & High St).
BOTANIC GARDEN 8 For a highly entertaining,
By the banks of the Cherwell,
this peaceful garden was
founded in 1621 for the study
of medicinal plants. Inside, you’ll
find a lily house, a rock garden
and the bench that Lyra and her
lover Will vow to visit once a
year in Phillip Pullman’s His Dark
Materials. While it does make
for a romantic stroll, don’t let
that stop you from exploring
this lovely garden (www.
botanic-garden.ox.ac.uk;
High St).
Bill Spectre’s Ghost Trails is highly
entertaining, if not a bit spooky
BILL SPECTRE’S GHOST TRAILS
theatrical and informative look
at Oxford’s dark underbelly join
Victorian undertaker Bill Spectre
on a one-hour-and-45-minute
tour of the city’s most haunted
sites. Oxford does have a pretty
scary reputation, so prepare to
be spooked. But, if it takes a lot
more than a few tales to scare
you, Bill Spectre is known for
his illusions, so you’ll definitely
be entertained (www.ghosttrail.
org; depart from Oxford Castle
Unlocked; no bookings needed).
See Eat & drink Sleep
SLEEP
Oxford Coach & Horses 10
is a fabulous B&B that hides
behind a powder-blue exterior,
right by the Cowley Road action
(www.oxfordcoachandhorses.co.uk;
from ` 12,000).
This converted former
Victorian prison is now
Malmaison 11 , a plush
and thoroughly sophisticated
hotel. Each room is made from
three cells. It may sound a bit
creepy, but, rest assured, this
hotel is far from it (www.mal
9 maison.com; rooms from
` 17,000).
A 17th-century stone
house cloaked in wisteria,
Old Parsonage Hotel 12
is a 35-room property that
perfectly blends period charm
and modern luxury (www.old
parsonage-hotel.co.uk; from
` 53,000 with breakfast).
EMBASSY ALERT
High Commission of India,
London:
www.hcilondon.in
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE
British Airways, Air India, Emirates,
Etihad and Jet Airways fly to London
(62 kms from Oxford) from New
Delhi and Mumbai (return fares
from ` 42,000).
THE COST
LOW HIGH
DIFFICULTY OF TRAVEL
LOW HIGH
WHEN TO GO
May to September sees pleasant
weather and smaller crowds, making
it the ideal time to visit.
PHOTOGRAPHS: KAMALA SAKORNMANEESUP/SHUTTERSTOCK, AGEFOTOSTOCK/ALAMY. PHOTOS ARE FOR REPRESENTATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY.
COMPILED BY RORY GOULDING, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM TRENT HOLDEN AND KATE MORGAN AND AISHWARYA MENON.
Hotel rooms in Oxford come with
their own unique personality
FANCY A CURRY
Dreaming of desi food while
in Oxford? Head to 4500 Miles
From Delhi to satiate your
CURRENCY AT THE TIME OF GOING TO PRINT: 1 GBP = ` 96
cravings. The restaurant delivers too,
in case you’re in a lazy mood (Park
Central, 40 Park End St; 00 -44-18-
6524-4922; deliveroo.co.uk).
VISA
A standard visitor’s visa for
the United Kingdom takes
approximately 20 working
days to process (www.gov.uk;
` 9,000).
For more details, log on to
www.lonelyplanet.com
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DARJEELING IS A BUSTLING
HILL STATION WITH A UNIQUE
CHARACTER, TUCKED AWAY IN
THE MOUNTAINS. ADD SOME
GREAT FOOD, VIBRANT CULTURE
AND FRESH AIR TO THE MIX
AND YOU’VE GOT THE PERFECT
WEEKEND GETAWAY
MINI GUIDE NOVEMBER 2018
WHY GO?
To be one with nature, binge on some good

WEEKEND IN food and to do a little soul-searching up

in the mountains

DARJEELING, WHAT IS THERE TO DO?

Brace yourself for some cardio
as you take on Darjeeling on

WEST BENGAL foot, indulge in a few adventure

activities and end your day

Left: Paragliding offers breathtaking

views of Darjeeling and the
Kanchendzonga range
Right: Good luck having just one plate
of momos at Kunga Restaurant

SIGHTS
TIGER HILL 1
If you’re on the hunt for the perfect
holiday photo, Tiger Hill is where
the magic is at. With perfect views
of the sun rising over Kanchenjunga
and the Himalayas, consider
getting there early to catch the
golden hour. Your sacrifice will
not be in vain, take our word for
it (Jeeps available at Club side taxi
stand at the base of Nehru Road
or at Gandhi and Laden La Roads;
4am – 4.30am; ` 800 – ` 1,000
for a small car).
Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines
Check out red pandas at the Padmaja
Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park
ADVENTURE
Fold 1
WHITE-WATER RAFTING 4
Gear up for a bit of adventure and
take on the waves in Darjeeling.
The Rangeet and Teesta Rivers
are ideal for white-water rafting,
especially from September to
November, when the quick rapids
make the whole experience rather
exciting. River rafting here usually
requires a group of four to six
people, so round your squad and hit
the water (Action Adventure and Kanchenjunga is a constant feature in
Darjeeling
Rescue Group: 00-91-98320-
97676; Teesta Bazaar; 9am – 5pm;

PADMAJA NAIDU HIMALAYAN from ` 3,500). PARAGLIDING 6

HAPPY VALLEY TEA ESTATE 2
It goes without saying that you’ll
probably score the best cup
of chai in Darjeeling. Discover
what goes into making the perfect
cup of tea at Happy Valley Tea
Estate. With a long legacy steeped
in history, the best time to visit the
estate is between March and May
or June and November, which
is plucking season. Be sure to
take the guided tour in order to
understand the entire tea production
process (Lebong Cart Rd,
near Darjeeling Zoo; 9.30am –
4pm; guided tour: ` 100).
ZOOLOGICAL PARK 3
If you love wildlife, the Padmaja
Naidu Himalayan Zoological
Park should definitely be on
your itinerary. This is the only Indian
zoo that houses Siberian tigers,
red pandas, snow leopards
and other Himalayan delights.
Make sure you have your camera
ready; you’re sure to capture
some great shots of majestic
wildlife. The park is known
for its considerably steep ascents,
so consider yourself forewarned
(Jawahar Parbat; 8.30am –
4.30pm, Fri – Wed; ` 20).
HIMALAYAN MOUNTAINEERING
INSTITUTE MUSEUM 5
Irrespective of whether you plan
to conquere the mountains or not,
visit the Himalayan Mountaineering
Institute Museum, located in the
Padmaja Naidu Himalayan
Zoological Park. The museum is
divided into two sections: one a
general one on mountaineering
and its evolution, and on hill culture
among other things; the other
dedicated to Mount Everest (
Jawar Prabat; 00-035-4225-4087;
8.30 – 4.30pm; Thurs closed).
TURN OVER FOR MAP AND NUMBER LOCATIONS
If you’re in the mood for an
adrenaline rush, take a flying leap
off the hilltop and paraglide over
the valley. But, if you’d rather take
it a bit easy, bob gently in a hot-air
balloon. Paragliding in Darjeeling
is great fun but do watch how you
land. The hot-air balloon offers
a mellow version of the same
experience, since the carriage
is tethered to the ground (Off
Road Adventure; 00-91-90642-
94450; HT Lama Rd; 8am – 4pm;
paragliding: ` 4,000/person;
hot air balloon: ` 600/person,
4 people required).
MINI GUIDE
Weekend in Darjeeling, West Bengal

GETTING AROUND See Eat & drink Sleep ESSENTIALS

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GETTING THERE
9

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pa (Ro
into Bagdogra Airport from all major
cities (return fares from `13,680).

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FOOD SLEEP
TOM AND JERRY 7 Located in the heart of the city,
Start your day with a big hearty Dekeling Hotel 10 has some
breakfast; no place does it quite of the best views of the mountains.
like Tom and Jerry. Known for Don’t forget to head to the cozy
its full English breakfast and attic- cum-library (00-91-354-225-
quirky interiors, Tom and Jerry 3298, 00-91-96797-34048; www.

PHOTOGRAPHS: MAHESH SAGARI AND VIPURVA PAREKH. PHOTOS ARE FOR REPRESENTATIONAL PURPOSE ONLY.
also has a continental menu dekeling.com; 51, Gandhi Rd;
you can choose from. Don’t from ` 2,070).
forget to wash it all down with The Bellevue Hotel 11
a deliciously thick shake (Dr. Zakir has a distinctly Tibetan feel, with
Hussain Rd, near Chowrasta, a number of cozy juniper and

COMPILED BYAURELIA FERNANDES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM AISHWARYA MENON.

8am – 9pm; mains from ` 150).
KUNGA RESTAURANT
This family-run restaurant seats
roughly 18 people and is
almost always packed, thanks
to the delicious Tibetan and
Chinese food it whips up. Kunga
Restaurant makes everything
from scratch, including noodles,
resulting in the food being as
authentic as it gets. The chicken
thenthuk – a thukpa with flat
noodles and the momos are
highly recommended. Portions are
huge, so restrain yourself and
do avoid the Chinese food
here (00-91-96798-89365;
51, Gandhi Rd; 10am – 2.30pm,
4pm – 7pm; momos from ` 100).
Glenary’s offers a great snacking
menu and sweet treats
8 354-225-4075; www.bellevuehotel-
GLENARY’S
Set against the backdrop of the
mountains, Glenary’s combines
great food with stunning views.
Grab a table by one of its
large French windows or find
a seat out on the patio and enjoy
the vibe as you wait for your
meal. While the food here
is good, the in-house bakery has
a pretty good selection of treats
that are worth trying too. These
goodies are best enjoyed with
a cup of tea and a book (00-91-
96351-62005; Nehru Rd,
Chauk Bazaar; 12pm – 9.30pm;
mains from ` 325).
pine-panelled rooms complete with Hotels in Darjeeling boast of cosy
grass mats and a bukhari (00-91- rooms and great views
9 darjeeling.com; Chowrasta; from SIDE TRIP
` 2,200). One of the most popular trekking
Originally the summer palace routes is the Singalila Ridge
of the Maharaja of Nazargunj, Trek, starting from Mana Bhanjang
the Mayfair Darjeeling 12 and ending at Phalut. The trek takes
has a timeless charm that is evident you through the Singalila National
in its palatial rooms, decorated Park and provides stunning views of
in rich leather with plush carpets the Himalayas (and rhododendron
and fine art (00-91-92375-00101; blooms in spring). While you can
mayfairhotels.com; Jawahar Rd plan the trip on your own, we
recommend opting for a trekking
FANCY A CURRY agency (www.adventuresun
If you’re craving some veggie limited.in; 00-91-9933-07001;
goodness, head over to Chauk Bazaar).
Hotel Lunar (00-91-35422-
54194; 51 Gandhi Rd; 7am – For more details, log on to
10.15pm; mains from ` 150). www.lonelyplanet.com
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ITALY’S FASHION AND DESIGN

CAPITAL BUILT ONE OF THE WORLD’S
FIRST BIG SHOPPING ARCADES,
AND NEVER LOOKED BACK.
TODAY, YOU’LL FIND ALL THE
GLOBAL BRANDS, BUT THE
SHOPS BELOW OFFER A MORE
MINI GUIDE NOVEMBER 2018 DISTINCTLY MILANESE EXPERIENCE
WHY GO?

SHOPPING To explore Milan’s ever-changing fashion

scene and step up your own aesthetic game

IN MILAN, WHAT IS THERE TO DO?

Splurge a bit on high-end and vintage
fashion, tuck into some gourmet

ITALY Italian staples and appreciate

good design

Left: The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is an

1870s shopping landmark
Right: Keep your eyes peeled for vintage
pieces, you’re sure to find some real gems

FASHION
BRIONI 1
Since 1945, Brioni has been
synonymous with luxury
menswear. In its flagship store
decked out in Eramosa marble,
bronze and plate glass, six
experienced tailors offer bespoke
services. It goes without saying
that Brioni is a high-end store,
with the best suits money can
buy, but don’t let that stop you
from browsing or just doing a bit
of window shopping (www.brioni.
com; Via Gesù 2–4).
Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines
Be sure to pick up a bottle of wine
or two at La Rinascente
DESIGN
Fold 1
DANESE 4
Right from its inception in the 1950s,
Danese has dedicated itself
to creating art that adds value
to a place. Milan’s Danese may
not be as well-known as Piedmont’s
Alessi, but its products possess
the same sense of wit and attention
to everyday detail. If Enzo Mari’s
delightful Sea in a Box puzzle
caught your eye at the Triennale
Design Museum, this is the place A frieze from Il Cirmolo is sure
to spruce up your home
to make one your own (www.
danesemilano.com/en/; Piazza

LA RINASCENTE 3 San Nazaro in Brolo 15). Via Fiori Chiari 3).

CAVALLI E NASTRI 2
If you love to incorporate vintage
fashion into your style aesthetic,
a visit to Cavalli e Nastri is
mandatory. This gorgeous
colourful shop stocks lovingly
curated vintage clothes and
accessories: frocks, bags,
jewellery and shoes, sourced
from early- and mid-20th-century
Italian fashion houses. Its menswear
store is at Via Mora 3 and
worth visiting, even if it’s just
for some fashion inspiration
(www.cavallienastri.com;
Via Brera 2).
Italy’s most prestigious department
store doesn’t let the fashion capital
down – come for Italian diffusion
lines, French lovelies and LA
upstarts, plus a “Made in Italy”
design supermarket and a food
section with Duomo views.
With a rich history that spans over
151 years, it comes as no surprise
that La Rinascente was honoured
with the award for “The Best
Department Store in the World”
in 2016. Come for the variety,
stay for the luxury (www.rinascente.
it/rinascente/en/; Piazza del
Duomo).
IL CIRMOLO 5
Sourcing antiques and funky
vintage artefacts since the 1960s,
Il Cirmolo is a little treasure trove
of joy. If you’re looking to give
your home a kitschy makeover,
you’ve hit the motherload.
You can spend a whole morning
picking through period signs,
anatomical models, lamps, friezes
and even a car fender or two.
Don’t be surprised if you leave
with a life-sized Betty Boop.
Every home should have one
(www.ilcirmoloantiquariato.it/en/;
TURN OVER FOR MAP AND NUMBER LOCATIONS
SPAZIO ROSSANA ORLANDI 6
Within a former tie factory in
the Magenta district, this iconic
interior design studio is hard to
find. But that’s because it’s a haven
of design. Inside is a dream-like
Aladdin’s cave of vintage and
contemporary limited-edition pieces
from young and upcoming artists.
Spazio Rossana Orlandi is the best
possible spot to understand Milan’s
current home and fashion trends,
all of which is fueled by young
artists (www.rossanaorlandi.com;
Via Matteo Bandello 14).

116 November 2018

MINI GUIDE
Shopping in Milan, Italy
GETTING AROUND
SWITZERLAND AUSTRIA
SLOVENIA
MILAN #
CROATIA
FRANCE
A
ITALY d r i a
Corsica tic
(France)
Sardinia
(Italy) Tyrrhenian
Sea
MEDITERR Sicily
AN
E A (Italy)
TUNISIA N SEA
FOOD
EATALY 7 Famous for its rather unique
A cult destination dedicated to
Italian gastronomy, this emporium
showcases the best locally
sourced products over four huge
floors, including small craft beer
producers, specialist gelato
from Làit, and mozzarella from
Miraco- lo a Milano. There are
also 19 eateries, and a Michelin-
starred restaurant, Alice. If you
plan on taking home a few
edible souvenirs or just stocking
up on some quality Italian staples,
Eataly is your best bet (www.
eataly.net/eu_en/; Piazza XXV
Aprile 10).
PECK MILAN 8 first chocolate factory and this
Peck Milan’s historic deli
is a bastion of the city’s culinary
heritage, with a fabulously
colourful display of foods that
cram every counter: an array
of cheeses, chocolates, pralines,
pastries, gelato, olive oils,
balsamic vinegars and more.
Peck also has a rather impressive
wine cellar, which houses over
3,000 types of wines and spirits
from across the world (www.
Se
a
Irrespective of what you’re looking for,
Eataly has it all
peck.it/en; Via Spadari 9).
ZAINI 9 contemporary and chique, look no
In 1913, Luigi Zaini opened his
sweet-filled store stands on its
old site. Unctuous hot chocolate
laced with rosebuds is served
at the bar, but the big seller
here is ‘Emilia’, a dark-chocolate
delight. Be sure to take some
back home for your family and
friends, as Ziani allows you to
create your very own assorted
hampers. Sneak in a few goodies
for yourself too (www.zainimilano.
com/en/; Via de Cristoforis 5).
See Eat & drink Sleep
SLEEP
design, 3 Rooms 10 is located
in the courtyard of 10 Corso
Como Milano. This concept hotel
has a quirky theme and only three
bedrooms,complete with Eames
bedspreads, Arne Jacobsen
chairs and Eero Saarinen tables
(www.3rooms-10corsocomo.com;
from ` 28,000).
Opened in 2016, Room
Mate Giulia 11 is an design
hotel echoes 1950s Milan style,
and backs on to the historic
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.
If you’re looking for something
further (www.room-matehotels.com;
rooms from ` 36,300).
On the site of the historic
Palazzo Kramer, Palazzo
Parigi 12 is now one of Milan’s
most opulent hotels, done up in
a swoon-worthy Romantic style
(www.palazzoparigi.com; from
` 68,000).
EMBASSY ALERT
Embassy of India, Rome:
www.indianembassyrome.in
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE
Air India, Turkish Airlines,
Lufthansa, Jet Airways, Alitalia,
Swiss International Air Lines and
Alitalia fly to Milan Malpensa Airport
from Mumbai and New Delhi
(return fares from ` 41,500).
THE COST
LOW HIGH
DIFFICULTY OF TRAVEL
LOW HIGH
WHEN TO GO
While June to August is peak
travel season, Milan sees fewer
crowds between March to May
and September to October.
PHOTOGRAPHS: KAMALA SAKORNMANEESUP/SHUTTERSTOCK, AGEFOTOSTOCK/ALAMY. PHOTOS ARE FOR REPRESENTATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY.
COMPILED BY RORY GOULDING, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM TRENT HOLDEN AND KATE MORGAN AND AISHWARYA MENON.
Your hotel room will be a welcoming
sight after a long day of shopping
FANCY A CURRY
Himalaya’s Kashmir
is famous for its mutton rogan josh
CURRENCY AT THE TIME OF GOING TO PRINT: 1 EURO = ` 84
and palak paneer (www.himalaya
skashmir.com; Via Principe Amedeo,
325-327; 11.30am –11.30 pm;
mains from ` 550).
VISA
Apply for Schengen Type C
short-term tourist visa, which
is valid for 90 days and takes
15 working days to process
(www.vfs-italy.co.in; ` 4,390 visa
fee + ` 1,015 VFS service charge).
For more details, log on to
www.lonelyplanet.com
November 2018 117
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