Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
PROJECTS
Woolens Sandness
Cardigan
10 Castile Cardigan pg. 17
Meghan Jones
13 Stratus Shawl
Meghan Jones
17 Sandness Cardigan
Mone Dräger
19 Íslenska Shawl
Jennifer Miller Comstock
Plant Matter
46 Heartwood Cardigan
Donna Estin
50 Sprigs Top
Fiona Munro
53 Canopy Tee
Jean Chung
Luxe Fibers
63 Andes Mitts
Sherrie Kibler
64 Paihamu Hat
Jennifer Miller Comstock
67 Devonshire Beanie
Mone Dräger
69 Arctic Headband
Kate Scalzo
70 Qiviut Traditions:
The Fiber of the Far North
by Sophia Minakais
80 Ravelings
Illustrated by Gianna Coniglio
DEPARTMENTS
04 Editor’s Note
06 Maker’s Tools
08 Fiber Review: Pure Luxury
Timaru Merino/Bamboo
500 yards of delicious coolness
EDITOR’S NOTE
SPRING 2020 • VOLUME XXV • NUMBER 1
Dear Reader,
How many sheep breeds are there? If a EDITORIAL
person types this question into a Google
EDITOR Hannah Baker
search, they would quickly find that MANAGING EDITOR Laura Hulslander
there is no definite number. The general SENIOR PROJECT EDITOR Joni Coniglio
answer is “a whole heck of a lot.” ASSISTANT EDITOR Julia Pillard
Which plants are used to make TECHNICAL EDITORS Karen Frisa, Lori Gayle
yarn? This is also a realm where the possibilities start to open COPY EDITOR Dale Ulland
PROOFREADER Nancy Arndt
up when you begin to look into them. There are the obvious
cotton and linen yarns we’ve come to know, but there are also
MARKETING & ADVERTISING
bamboo, soy, and wood yarns, and so many more.
ADVERTISING MANAGER Diane Kocal
Aside from sheep, what other animals provide wool of their
AD TRAFFICKER Lori Hauser
own? What the heck is a musk ox or, for that matter, the qiviut
SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Jessi Rodriguez
that supposedly comes off its body? (If you ever get a chance to NEWSSTAND SALES Scott T. Hill, scott.hill@pubworx.com
touch this stuff, do it.) What does yak down look and feel like?
This is a small sample of questions you can ask to open up CREATIVE SERVICES
the world of fiber possibilities to incorporate in your knitting. ART DIRECTOR Kerry Jackson
The final outcome of a knitted garment or accessory is heavily PHOTOGRAPHY Caleb Young
(unless otherwise noted)
influenced by the fiber content of a yarn, not just the weight
PHOTOSTYLING Tina Gill
or “softness” factor.
HAIR & MAKEUP Beauty on Location Studio
In this Spring 2020 issue of Interweave Knits, we’ve
matched a range of wool, plant, and luxury-fiber yarns (and
blends) with appropriate patterns to showcase the depth and
variety that yarns in this market have to offer. It is by no means DIRECTOR OF CONTENT Tiffany Warble
comprehensive—if it were, this issue might need to be 500 GROUP ART DIRECTOR Emily Simpson
SR. DIRECTOR OF MARKETING
pages long! It’s more of a jumping-off point to inspire you to & OPERATIONS Kim Greenlee
explore all the different types of fibers out there and to find DIRECTOR OF MEDIA SALES Julie Macdonald
what really speaks to you and your knitting style.
Whether you like hardworking, cozy sweaters, lightweight BUSINESS
tops, or luxury accessories, you’ll find something in these pages CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Gregory J. Osberg
you’ll get the itch to cast on this spring. SVP, GROUP PUBLISHER David Pyle
VP, MAGAZINES Paula Backer
VP, DIGITAL Melanie Darienzo
Cheers,
VP, PRODUCT & STRATEGY Josiah Klebaner
VP, CONTROLLER Jordan Bohrer
STYLISH SUPPLIES
for SPRINGTIME KNITS
1 For the knitter who likes to have options, Cocoknits has a Flight of Stitch Markers waiting for you! With five different styles in
a multitude of colors, knitters can easily differentiate between sections in their knitting. www.cocoknits.com 2 In Raising Animals
for Fiber, author Chris McLaughlin takes readers through the basics of keeping livestock for fiber before exploring four specific
species in greater detail. www.foxchapelpublishing.com 3 Made from 100% superwash Merino wool, The Wicked Knittah’s Sage
Mini Skein Gradient Set perfectly captures the variety of greens that emerge in nature over the course of the spring. Knit a verdant
glow into your wardrobe with this perfect sampler of spring shades! www.thewickedknittah.com 4 Every crafter knows that a trusty
pair of scissors is a must, but why not pick a pair you’ll love to look at? Yozo Scissors from Loop look like an antique, but they will
work wonders and—even better—fit easily into a crafting bag. www.loopknittingshop.com 5 Twig and Horn’s Canvas Interchange-
able Needle Case is the perfect blend of utility and elegance. The heavy-cotton canvas case has 12 spaces for your interchangeable
sets, plus a zippered pouch for cords! All of it folds up neatly with a classic leather strap. www.twigandhorn.com
lavender
eucalyptus
grapefruit
unscented
jasmine
Stansfield
800-321-9665 SPINNERY.COM
Pure 2
LUXURY
BY LAURA HULSLANDER Looking for a lush accent to your knitting? While you may have
knitted with these sumptuous fibers in blended yarns, you
should try them in their pure forms for a delightfully lavish treat.
CASTILE CARDIGAN
Meghan Jones
The Castile Cardigan uses a combination of
simple textures and a garter-stitch collar to
create a classically unique garment. Knitted
with soft Merino wool, the body of this cardigan
is worked back and forth in one piece from the
bottom up.
YARN Valley Yarns Amherst, distributed by WEBS
PATTERN page 24
OUR GRANDMOTHERS’
WOOL
A CENTURY OF PROGRESSION
BY SOPHIA MINAKAIS
Wool is one of the most ancient fibers known to man—from ancient Egypt, across the African
continent into the Middle East and cities of Medieval Europe; from the oldest Mayan settlements to
the villages of the Navajo; from the farthest corners of the earth. Over millennia, a tradition of wool
production has developed with its earliest roots dating so far back that they cannot be clearly traced.
Shrouded in mystery and the passage of thousands of years, wool crafting is among mankind’s
earliest traditions. It’s amazing to think, given our modern age of conveniences and technological
advances, that we still share this common bond with our ancient ancestors. But over all this time,
how much has the trusty medium of the craft changed? The answer is a fascinating one.
You don’t have to look to ancient Egypt to find wool that was much
different than it is today. Many people, especially those outside the
knitting community, consider wool to be an antiquated fiber. They
find it rough, ugly, and all-around irritating. Offering them a wool
garment would probably be met with a polite refusal and an excuse
to run as far away as possible. This negative response to wool is not
altogether unfounded. It is, however, outdated. Few people realize
just how far wool production has come. The idea that a wool sweater
could become your favorite winter piece or a wool blanket could
become a treasured family heirloom is, for many, still difficult
to fathom.
But what has happened? What makes modern wool so different
from the wool that Grandma Meg used for knitting the scratchy scarves A Shetland sheep and lamb. GETTY IMAGES/NATASHA MAIN
we had to wear to school? Or the wool of Alexander the Great’s
favorite sandal socks? Let’s take a closer look at some of the changes
to the wool industry over the past century: CLEANER FIBER
MICRON COUNT Another major factor that added to the irritating nature of wool yarns
was leftover debris remaining in the yarn after spinning. If you’ve
The biggest factor that defines the softness of a fiber is its diameter, ever worked with a rough commercial or handspun yarn, you might
known as the micron count. A micron, short for micrometer, is one- have found bits of plant material stuck between the fibers. Thanks
millionth of a meter. Fiber finer than 25 microns can be used for to better cleaning machinery and solvents used to clean fiber, most
garment making. Anything coarser will probably be reserved for rugs of today’s wool yarns are free, or nearly free, of plant debris. In the
and industrial uses. The larger the number, the coarser the wool. past, when people were hand-cleaning fiber, it contained inevitable
The micron count of sheep’s wool ranges greatly—depending on the plant debris, if not remnants of animal droppings! These irritants
breed, the individual sheep, and even climate and food conditions. were common enough that everyone was used to them. That same
If you knit, you’re undoubtedly familiar with Merino wool. The king feel today would not be so well received.
of sheep’s wool, Merino is prized by knitters and clothing manufac-
turers around the world for its buttery smoothness. While other sheep THE CARDING PROCESS
wools, such as Coopworth and Herdwick, can have micron counts in
the 40s and higher, Merino has cornered the wool industry, with With a little digging, you can find a lot of fascinating information
counts as low as 11.5. about the process of producing yarn. Without getting too detailed,
Interesting, sure. But the micron counts of wools couldn’t have consider the advancements in modern machinery alone. Making yarn
changed, could they? Actually, they have. Modern breeding methods begins with carding—the process of combing out wool fibers to make
make it easier for farmers to selectively breed sheep to produce the them smooth and straight before spinning them. You can liken the
finest fiber ever. In the past, not only was crossbreeding more dif- process to preparing hair for braiding. Imagine the difference between
ficult, people also didn’t have access to a wide variety of sheep from taking a fine comb to carefully untangle your hair before braiding
which to choose. Even going back just a hundred years, people in it, compared with just running your fingers through it and then
different locations had to use wool from their local sheep. If the only braiding it. Using fingers only will result in still-tangled hair and
breed of sheep that lived in your grandmother’s small European your braid will be rough—with hair sticking out everywhere. This is
village were Hebrideans, then all your grandmother’s old country analogous to the old-fashioned carding process of wool that used
scarves and blankets would have been made with coarse Hebridean coarse carding brushes. Today’s fine-toothed brushes create an evenly
wool. The farther back you go, the more this is the case. carded fiber, resulting in smoother yarn.
An important thing to consider is that knitting in the past was a Perhaps two of the most confusing terms to knitters who don’t spin
necessity. Though now considered hobbies, knitting and weaving are “worsted” and “woolen.” These terms not only refer to worsted-
were once the only means of providing clothing for a family. Because weight yarns and yarns made from wool, but they are also the two
of the time-consuming process involved, it was important to make methods used to spin yarn. A yarn made via the worsted method is
clothing, blankets, and other woolen items as durable as possible. spun from combed fiber, creating a soft, smooth yarn. In the woolen
One of the best ways to achieve this was to combine mohair fiber method, fibers are carded in a more disorderly manner, creating a
with the wool. Many families raised both sheep and goats in the old fuzzier, rougher yarn. While both methods are employed in yarn mills
country, so combining their fibers was only logical. Mohair is sig- today, the worsted method is more common, providing us with an
nificantly stronger than wool and helps to prevent wear and tear. abundance of pleasant yarns to work with. The woolen method is
However, mohair fiber can be as coarse as 45 microns, making for reserved for yarns where a rustic and/or vintage look is desired.
a very itchy yarn. If you’ve ever tried sleeping on Grandma’s wool/ Although both methods have been used for ages, modern machinery
mohair blanket from the 1920s, you’ll know that mohair contributes produces precision worsted yarns that are far smoother than the
greatly to giving wool its bad rap. Believe me, I’ve tried it! handmade worsted yarns of the past could have ever been.
WOOL ALLERGIES
project? Well, that might be the most difficult question of all, given
Many people talk about wool allergies. But what exactly are wool that there are so many lovely wool yarns these days! If you are just
allergies? Are people really allergic to sheep’s wool? Most people starting out with wool or are optimistically attempting to re-enter the
who have encountered an allergic reaction to wool garments are wool world, start with a nice Merino. It’s sure to allay any fears you
actually reacting to the coarseness of the particular fiber, the lanolin might have. Or check out reviews and look to see what yarns other
in the wool, or plant fiber/debris in the wool. These irritants are less people have used to make your favorite patterns. Regardless, you’ll
common these days, since modern wool has become softer and have loads of fun exploring the great wool yarns that are available.
cleaner, and contains less lanolin due to its removal in the produc- But as you bask in the delight of a buttery-soft Merino, just remem-
tion process. Although the research is not conclusive, the likelihood ber: Rough wool is not always a bad thing! There are still applications
that you’re allergic to the wool itself is low. If you’ve had an allergic where a rough wool is the best choice—durable potholders, rugs, pet
reaction to wool in the past, try an ultrafine Merino and see if you toys, and felted projects, just to name a few.
have the same response. You might find that modern wool has cured I hope an increased knowledge of how far wool has progressed will
your wool allergies! encourage you to pursue your own wool adventures so that, in the
next century, “grandmothers’ wool” will usher in thoughts of cozy
SUPERWASH VS TRADITIONAL WOOL luxury, rather than forced tolerability.
Another innovation of the past half-century is “superwash” wool. SOPHIA MINAKAIS is a natural-knitwear designer and the
Most knitters are familiar with superwash wools, and there is much owner of Knitting the Natural Way. To see her patterns and
controversy on the subject as to whether they are safe to use. Super- more of her work, visit www.knittingthenaturalway.com.
wash yarns are often softer than traditional wools because the
chemical coatings applied to them keep runaway fibers from protrud-
ing and causing irritation. This option was not available to our
grandmothers’ era of knitters. That said, many of today’s natural-wool
RESOURCES
yarns are equally as soft without the concern of potential side effects.
Robson, Deborah and Carol Ekarius. The Fleece & Fiber
So, now that you better understand how far wool has come since Sourcebook. North Adams, Massachusetts: Story Publishing,
the prickly mitts of our childhood, are you ready to try knitting with 2011.
it? Sure, you are! But how do you choose the perfect wool yarn for a
Enjoy
200 +
FREE
knitting
patterns at
Meadow Shawl
by Dianna Stevens
Jamieson’s Ultra
Projects are included in
the 7 Free Knitted Cowl simply shetland
Patterns for Women Exclusive North American distributor of
Jamieson’s Shetland yarns
eBook TM
Visit simplyshetland.com for your local retailer
Drift wood, 10 (11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 17, 18) WS row. Knit 4 rows. Next row (RS) Knit
balls. Yarn distributed by WEBS. Cable Decrease Left (CDL): Sl 2 sts to m, sl m, work Triangle chart to m, sl m,
Needles Size 8 (5 mm): 32" circular (cir) onto cn, hold in front, [ssk 1 st from knit to end. Cont in patt as established
and set of double-pointed (dpn). Adjust cn tog with 1 st from left needle] for 11 more rows, ending with a WS row.
needle size if necessary to obtain the 2 times—2 sts dec’d. Knit 4 rows—piece measures about 15¾"
correct gauge. from CO. Divide for fronts and back:
Notions Markers (m); removable Broken Rib: (multiple of 4 sts) With RS facing, place last 56 (60, 66, 70,
m; cable needle (cn); stitch holders; Row 1 (RS) *K3, p1; rep from * to end. 74, 78, 84, 88, 92) sts on holder for left
tapestry needle. Row 2 (WS) *K1, p1; rep from * to end. front. Place center 76 (84, 96, 104, 112,
Gauge 17 sts and 24 rows = 4" in St st; Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt. 120, 132, 140, 148) sts on holder for
16 sts and 28 rows = 4" in garter st; back—56 (60, 66, 70, 74, 78, 84, 88, 92)
16½ sts and 28 rows = 4" in charted patts. Moss Stitch: (even number of sts) sts rem for right front.
Row 1 (RS) *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
H I
L
G A: 18½ (20¼, 23¼, 25¼, 27¼, 29, 32, 34, 36)"
F B: 18 (19¾, 22½, 24½, 26¼, 28¼, 31, 33, 34¾)"
K J E C: 13 (14, 15¼, 16¼, 17¼, 18, 19½, 20½, 21½)"
D: 15¾"
E: 5½ (6, 6¾, 7¾, 8½, 9¼, 9¾, 9¾, 10)"
B
F: ¾"
G: 4"
BODY
D H: 4 (4¾, 6, 6¾, 7½, 8¼, 9½, 10¼, 11)"
I: 10 (10¼, 10½, 11, 11¼, 11¾, 12, 12½, 12¾)"
J: 11¼ (12¼, 14, 16, 17½, 18¾, 20¼, 20¼, 20¾)"
C K: 9 (9, 9, 9, 9½, 9½, 10, 10, 10)"
L: 15¼ (15¼, 15¼, 14¼, 13¾, 12¾, 11¾, 11, 11)"
A
WOOLENS
k on RS; p on WS Shape shoulder: At beg of RS rows, slightly to fit. Weave in ends.
BO 5 (6, 9, 9, 10, 11, 14, 14, 15) sts once,
p on RS; k on WS then BO 6 (7, 8, 10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16) sts MEGHAN JONES works full-time as
2 times—18 collar sts rem. Collar: Work a knitwear designer. She loves to
pattern repeat even in garter st until collar measures make patterns that are full of texture,
4¾ (4¾, 5, 5, 5¼, 5½, 5¾, 5¾, 5¾)", ending and she works to ensure that her
with a WS row. Break yarn. garments are size-inclusive. Find more
of her work, including tutorials, at
K1, purl to m, sl m, knit to end. Single SLEEVES www.littlenutmegproductions.com.
dec row (RS) Knit to m, sl m, k2tog, Sew fronts to back at shoulders, sewing
knit to end—1 st dec’d. Work 1 WS row each seam from the armhole edge inward
as established. Rep last 4 rows 5 (4, 3, 3, and ending at the removable m. With dpn
3, 3, 3, 3, 3) more times—38 (45, 54, 58, and RS facing, beg at center of underarm,
62, 66, 72, 76, 80) sts rem. Work single pick up and knit 48 (52, 60, 68, 74, 80,
dec row every RS row 3 (7, 11, 11, 12, 13, 86, 86, 88) sts evenly spaced around
14, 14, 15) times—35 (38, 43, 47, 50, armhole edge. Pm and join in the rnd.
53, 58, 62, 65) sts rem. Work even until Knit 20 (16, 16, 14, 4, 5, 14, 10, 8) rnds.
armhole measures 5½ (6, 6¾, 7¾, 8½, Dec rnd K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk,
9¼, 9¾, 9¾, 10)", ending with a RS row. k1—2 sts dec’d. Rep dec rnd every 14th
Shape shoulder: At beg of WS rows, (10th, 6th, 4th, 4th, 3rd, 2nd, 2nd, 2nd)
BO 5 (6, 9, 9, 10, 11, 14, 14, 15) sts once, rnd 4 (6, 10, 14, 16, 19, 21, 21, 22) more
then BO 6 (7, 8, 10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16) sts times—38 (38, 38, 38, 40, 40, 42, 42, 42)
2 times—18 collar sts rem. Collar: Work sts rem. Work even until piece measures
even in garter st until collar measures 13½ (13½, 13½, 12½, 12, 11, 10, 9¼, 9¼)"
4¾ (4¾, 5, 5, 5¼, 5½, 5¾, 5¾, 5¾)" from from underarm (see Notes), or 1¾" less
last BO, ending with a RS row. Break than desired length. Purl 1 rnd. Knit 1
yarn, leaving a 15" tail for grafting. Place rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Next rnd *K1, p1; rep
sts on holder. from * to end. Rep last rnd 5 more times.
Purl 1 rnd. Knit 1 rnd. Purl 1 rnd—piece
BACK measures 15¼ (15¼, 15¼, 14¼, 13¾, 12¾,
Return 76 (84, 96, 104, 112, 120, 132, 11¾, 11, 11)" from underarm. BO all sts.
140, 148) held back sts to needle and,
with RS facing, rejoin yarn. Keeping first FINISHING
and last st in garter st, work in St st until Block to measurements. Place held right
armhole measures 5½ (6, 6¾, 7¾, 8½, front collar sts onto empty dpn. Hold
(cir). Adjust needle size if necessary to increase, work the repeat one more edge sts at each side. Work Rows 1–24
obtain the correct gauge. time in each chart section each time of Chart B 2 more times, then work
you begin the chart again at Row 1. Rows 1–12 of chart once—299 sts: 97 sts
in each of three chart sections, 2 dividing
STITCH GUIDE sts, 3 garter edge sts at each side. Break
Sk2p: Sl 1 kwise, k2tog, pass sl st over— A. Join B. Work Rows 1–24 of Chart C
k on RS; p on WS
2 sts dec’d. once, then work Rows 1–12 of chart once
p on RS; k on WS
k2tog
CHART B
ssk
23
yo
21
sk2p
19
pattern repeat 17
15
13
CHART A
11
11 9
9 7
7 5
5 3
3 1
1 12-st rep
1 st inc’d to 13 sts
23
21
19
17
15
13
11
12-st rep
k on RS; p on WS
WOOLENS
p on RS; k on WS
k2tog
ssk
yo
sk2p
pattern repeat
FINISHING
Weave in ends. Block to measurements.
7, 8) skeins. more, purl to end—70 (74, 74, 76) sts: before raglan m, RLI, k1, sl m, k1, LLI,
Needles Size 6 (4 mm): 16" and 3 sts for each front, 14 sts for each sleeve, work in patt to 1 st before raglan m, RLI,
32" circular (cir) and set of double- 36 (40, 40, 42) sts for back. k1, sl m, k1, LLI; rep from * once more,
pointed (dpn). Size 7 (4.5 mm): 32" cir Sizes 50½ (54½, 58¾)" only: knit to last st, RLI, k1—10 sts inc’d. Rep
and set of dpn. Adjust needle size if Cable inc row (WS) *Purl to 1 st before last 2 rows 2 more times—150 sts: 18 sts
necessary to obtain the correct gauge. m, RLPI, p1, sl m, p5, M1P, p2, M1P, p5, for each front, 24 sts for each sleeve,
Notions Markers (m); cable needle (cn); sl m, p1, LLPI; rep from * once more, purl 66 sts for back. Work 1 WS row even.
stitch holders; tapestry needle. to end—84 (86, 86) sts: 5 sts for each All sizes:
Gauge 20 sts and 29 rnds = 4" in St front, 14 sts for each sleeve, 46 (48, 48) Neck and raglan inc row (RS) K1,
st on larger needle; 14-st rep of Body sts for back. LLI, *knit to 1 st before raglan m, RLI,
chart = 21⁄8" wide. All sizes: k1, sl m, k1, LLI, work in patt to 1 st
Neck and raglan inc row (RS) K1, LLI, before raglan m, RLI, k1, sl m, k1, LLI;
/interweave-knitting-glossary.
F
NOTES
• This pullover is worked back and
forth from the top down until the
E G
SLEEVES until piece measures 14½" from under- nec k edge; pm at point of V-neck. Pm
Return 54 (58, 68, 76, 82, 88, 94) sleeve arm, ending with Row 8 of chart. Dec and join in the rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Dec rnd
sts to larger dpn. With RS facing and beg rnd K15 (16, 18, 19, 20, 22, 24), k2tog Knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, ssk,
at center of underarm, pick up and knit (removing m), k1, k2tog, k6, ssk, k1, knit to end—2 sts dec’d. Rep last 2 rnds
4 (5, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6) sts along underarm CO, ssk (removing m), k15 (16, 17, 18, 20, 2 more times—102 (108, 108, 112, 112,
work 54 (58, 68, 76, 82, 88, 94) sleeve sts 22, 23)—42 (44, 47, 49, 52, 56, 59) sts 114, 114) sts rem. BO all sts pwise. Weave
in patt, pick up and knit 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 5) rem. Change to smaller dpn. Work in in ends. Block to measurements.
sts along underarm CO—62 (68, 79, 87, garter st (purl 1 rnd, knit 1 rnd) for 1½",
94, 100, 105) sts total. Pm and join in the ending with a knit rnd. BO all sts pwise. EMILY WOOD lives with her family
rnd. Work 8 (8, 6, 5, 5, 4, 4) rnds even in in Maryland. In addition to designing
patt. Dec rnd K1, k2tog, work in patt to FINISHING knitting patterns, she enjoys baking,
last 3 sts, ssk, k1—2 sts dec’d. Rep dec Neckband: With smaller 16" cir needle reading novels, and amateur attempts
rnd every 8 (8, 6, 5, 5, 4, 4)th rnd 7 (9, and RS facing, beg at right back shoulder, at gardening. Find her on Ravelry as
13, 16, 18, 19, 20) more times—46 (48, pick up and knit 108 (114, 114, 118, Dogwood13.
51, 53, 56, 60, 63) sts rem. Work even 118, 120, 120) sts evenly spaced around
BACK
CO 106 (122, 138, 154, 170) sts. Do not
SANDNESS CARDIGAN join. Next row (WS) P1, [k1, p2, k1] 5 (7, A
MONE DRÄGER 9, 11, 13) times, place marker (pm), [(k1,
p2, k1) 8 times, pm] 2 times, [k1, p2, k1]
Difficulty Level 5 (7, 9, 11, 13) times, p1. Next row (RS) K
Yarn Weight 1 K1, [p1, 1/1 LC (see Stitch Guide), p1]
J
Finished Size 34½ (39¾, 45¼, 50½, 5 (7, 9, 11, 13) times, sl m, [work Set-up
55¾)" circumference at underarm, chart over 32 sts, sl m] 2 times, [p1, 1/1
buttoned. Cardigan shown measures RC (see Stitch Guide), p1] 5 (7, 9, 11, 13) RIGHT
45¼"; modeled with 10¼" of positive times, k1. Cont in patt as established, FRONT
ease. working 1/1 cable crosses every RS
I
Yarn Jamieson’s Shetland Spindrift row, through Row 22 of chart, ending
(100% Shetland wool; 115 yd [105 m]/ with a WS row. Next row (RS) Knit to
WOOLENS
7
⁄8 oz [25 g]): #103 Sholmit, 11 (13, 16, 1 st before m, p1, sl m, work Left Cable
18, 21) skeins. Yarn distributed by chart to m, sl m, work Right Cable chart
Simply Shetland. to m, sl m, p1, knit to end. Next row
Needles Size 3 (3.25 mm): 40" circular Purl to 1 st before m, k1, sl m, [work in H
(cir). Adjust needle size if necessary to patt to m, sl m] 2 times, k1, purl to end.
obtain the correct gauge. Cont in patt until Rows 1–18 of charts
Notions Markers (m); cable needle have been worked 4 (5, 6, 6, 7) times,
(cn); stitch holder; four 1½" buttons; then work Rows 1–4 (1–8, 1 and 2, 1–8, M
tapestry needle. 1 and 2) once more—piece measures
SLEEVE
Gauge 24 sts and 34 rows = 4" in St st. 11¾ (14¼, 15¾, 16¼, 17¾)" from CO.
N
Center triangle: Inc row (RS) Work
www.interweave.com
section ends; read the foll section all the
way through before proceeding. *Inc row
1 (RS) Work in patt to 2nd m, sl m, p1,
M1R, knit to 1 st before m, M1L, p1, sl
m, work in patt to end—2 sts inc’d. Work
2 rows even. Inc row 2 (WS) Work in
patt to 2nd m, sl m, k1, M1LP, purl to 1 st
before m, M1RP, k1, sl m, work in patt
to end—2 sts inc’d. Work 2 rows even.
Rep from * 7 (8, 9, 11, 12) more times.
At the same time, while working final
6 (6, 6, 8, 8) rows and piece measures
20 (23¼, 25½, 27¼, 29½)" from CO, shape
shoulders as foll: BO 8 (10, 14, 12, 14)
sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 6 (9,
11, 10, 11) sts at beg of foll 4 (4, 4, 6, 6)
rows—101 (105, 109, 121, 131) sts rem.
Next row (RS) BO 35 (35, 35, 37, 40) sts,
k31 (35, 39, 47, 51), BO 35 (35, 35, 37, 40)
sts—31 (35, 39, 47, 51) sts rem. Place sts
on holder. SET-UP
LEFT FRONT
21
CO 55 (63, 71, 79, 87) sts. Do not join.
Next row (WS) P1, k1, [k1, p2, k1] 19
2 times, pm, [k1, p2, k1] 8 times, pm, [k1,
p2, k1] 3 (5, 7, 9, 11) times, p1. Next row 17
WOOLENS
WOOLENS
especially in knitted accessories. Find
sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k2, p1 from cn
her on social media as monemade.
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, p1, k2 from cn
LEFT CABLE
17
15
13
11
32 sts
17-st rep
TWIG LACE
11
5 k on RS; p on WS
3
k on WS
1
yo
13-st rep
k2tog
BLOSSOM LACE
ssk
5
sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso
3
pattern repeat
1
13-st rep
A knitting
podcast that
goes beyond
knitting
Host Allison Korleski brings you
stories from all corners of the Episode 3: From Orenburg Russia with Love
The prospect of grafting a cable pattern makes some knitters very nervous, even those who might
otherwise feel comfortable with grafting. If you are one of these knitters, perhaps it will ease your
fear (at least a little) if I tell you that, even though cables can sometimes make a pattern look
complex, the basic structure of most cable patterns is composed entirely of knit and purl stitches.
So, while the cables can’t be discounted completely (because they will have some effect on the
grafting), the grafting process itself is relatively simple, consisting of just four grafting steps for
stockinette stitch and four steps for reverse stockinette stitch (that are the reverse of the steps for
grafting stockinette stitch).
There is, however, one important thing that needs to be consid- cables near the cast-on row can be mitigated by using waste yarn to
ered when grafting a ribbing or cable pattern, and that is the secure the cast-on stitches and how running a lifeline through the
knitting direction—in relation to the grafted row—of both pieces cast-on stitches before removing the waste yarn can keep the cast-on
that are being joined together. The knitting direction is important stitches oriented correctly when placing them onto the knitting needle
because it will determine whether the pattern will have a half-stitch in preparation for grafting.
jog at the point where the two pieces are joined or whether the The cable patterns used for the swatches in this article are from
pattern will be aligned vertically. The knitting direction will also two of the projects in this issue, the Devonshire Beanie on page 67
determine the order in which the grafting steps are worked. This and the Arctic Headband on page 69. Both patterns involve grafting
order will change, depending on whether the stitches are grafted cable patterns top-to-bottom. The cable pattern used on the brim of
top-to-top or top-to-bottom. the Devonshire Beanie (Photo 1 and Chart 1) has 12-stitch cables
on every eighth row, with seven rows of plain ribbing between the
KNITTING DIRECTION WHEN GRAFTING KNIT cable rows. A single stitch at each edge is worked in garter stitch
AND PURL STITCHES (which requires its own four-step grafting sequence). The cable pattern
used in the Arctic Headband (Photo 2 and Chart 2) has cables
With top-to-top grafting, live stitches on the last row of each piece are on every right-side row. The center section of the headband consists
joined together, so both pieces are oriented toward the grafted row (and of one-over-one knit/purl cables on a reverse stockinette stitch back-
in the opposite direction from each other). With top-to-bottom grafting, ground. At each side, there is a pair of one-over-two cables, with a
the live stitches on the last row of one piece are joined to a provisional single elongated slipped stitch crossing over two knit stitches.
cast-on row (usually from the same piece of knitting, as for a cowl).
In this case, the direction of knitting moves toward the grafted row GRAFTING THE CABLE PATTERNS
on one piece and away from the grafted row on the other piece, so TOP-TO-BOTTOM
the knitting direction on both pieces is the same. When a ribbing
pattern (or any ribbing-based pattern) is grafted, there will only be The swatches shown in Photos 1 and 2 were grafted in the center (the
a jog in the pattern if there is a change of direction, as there will be yarn tails at the left-hand side of each swatch indicate the position
when stitches are grafted top-to-top. Thus, there shouldn’t be a jog of the grafted row). For each swatch, live stitches on the last row of
when stitches are grafted top-to-bottom. the lower half were grafted to the bottom of the provisional cast-on
In this article, we’ll focus primarily on grafting cable patterns stitches on the upper half. When grafting stitches top-to-bottom (with
top-to-bottom. We’ll look at how the stitch patterns on both pieces both sets of stitches held on parallel knitting needles), it’s important
will align vertically, with no jog, and how the grafting steps should that the provisional cast-on stitches be held on the back needle so
follow this vertical alignment of the stitches. We’ll also see how that the knitting direction will remain consistent on both pieces,
grafting creates two pattern rows, even though only one physical row including the grafted row. Otherwise, there will be a jog in the pattern
is added. Finally, we’ll see how the distortion caused by working despite the fact that the stitches are being grafted top-to-bottom.
PHOTO 1 CHART 1
possible
15 grafting rows
13
11
9 possible
7 grafting rows
5
3
1
30 sts
k on RS; p on WS sl 6 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, p2, k2, (k2, p2, k2) from cn
p on RS; k on WS sl 6 sts onto cn, hold in front, k2, p2, k2, (k2, p2, k2) from cn
PHOTO 2
k on RS; p on WS
p on RS; k on WS
CHART 2
possible
15 grafting rows
13
11
9
possible
7 grafting rows
5
3
1
42 sts
Order of Steps When Grafting Top-to-Bottom the vertical alignment of the stitch pattern, with all four steps worked
Grafting instructions that are written for top-to-top grafting will have in the same vertical column of stitches (see Grafting Chart Symbols
a repeated four-step grafting sequence that follows the half-stitch on page 40). In this case, the first step is worked on the front needle,
jog in the pattern: The first and second steps are worked over two the second and third steps are worked over two stitches on the back
stitches on the front needle, and the third and fourth steps are worked needle, and the fourth step is worked in the same stitch on the front
over two stitches on the back needle, with the fourth step located a needle as the first step. Working the grafting steps in this way—rather
half-stitch to the left and a row above the first step. However, when than working them as for top-to-top grafting—greatly simplifies the
stitches are grafted top-to-bottom, the grafting steps should follow grafting process and makes the steps much easier to memorize.
GRAFTING CHART SYMBOLS of rows, Rows 7 and 8 and Rows 15 and 16 are
the farthest from the cable rows, so either of these
Garter St St st Rev St st
K knitwise pairs will work. In the pattern, Row 15 was des-
P purlwise P K K P P K ignated for the grafted row and Row 16 was
BN BN BN
designated for the provisional cast-on row. Thus,
FN front needle
K P K P P K after stitches are picked up in the waste yarn
FN FN FN
BN back needle chain for the cast-on, the pattern begins with
Row 1 and ends with Row 14 before grafting.
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PLACING THE CAST-ON STITCHES ONTO stitch in front of the needle, when other stitches are oriented the
THE NEEDLE opposite way. Resist the temptation to “fix” stitches that don’t seem
correct as you are placing them onto the needle. As you pick up the
When placing the cast-on stitches onto the knitting needle in prepa- stitches, insert the tip of the knitting needle into each cast-on loop
ration for grafting, it’s important to remember that you’re working before removing the waste yarn from the stitch because the stitch
with the bottom of a row of stitches, instead of the top, so the loops may twist once it’s no longer anchored by the waste yarn.
will look very different—particularly with a cable pattern. Some of As additional insurance against picking up stitches incorrectly,
the stitches will be half-knit/half-purl wherever there are purl-to-knit insert a lifeline (using a color that is different from the waste yarn
transitions (Photo 5). Stitches may cross on top of each other used for the chain) into the stitches before picking them up and
(Photo 6). And stitches may even be oriented with the left leg of the removing the waste yarn. That way, you can simply follow the lifeline
through each stitch as you place it on the knitting needle, without
PHOTO 5 even thinking about how it’s oriented. Leave the lifeline in until after
the stitches are grafted so that if you make a mistake, you can simply
undo the grafted stitches without losing any stitches in the process
(Photo 7).
INSERTING A LIFELINE
With the right side of the work facing, insert the tapestry needle from
right side to wrong side into each working-yarn loop on the chain,
beginning with the half loop at the very edge (Photo 8). Continue
working across the row from right to left (Photo 9), making sure to
spread out the cast-on stitches wherever there is a cable twist so that
no loops are missed (Photo 10). Some of the working-yarn loops
under the cables may look more vertical than horizontal (Photo 11).
As you go, count the loops to make sure the lifeline is going through
PHOTO 6 exactly the same number of loops as the number of stitches that were
cast on.
Once the lifeline is in place, undo the waste yarn chain beginning
with the last chain worked (Photo 12) and place the stitches on the
needle, following the path of the lifeline through each stitch
(Photo 13). When all the stitches have been placed on the needle,
thread the cast-on tail onto a tapestry needle and create an extra
stitch on the knitting needle (Photo 14). You will need this extra
stitch in order to work all four grafting steps for the last stitch.
PHOTO 8 PHOTO 9
PHOTO 10 PHOTO 11
To graft, hold the knitting needles parallel, with the wrong sides
together, the needle holding the provisional cast-on stitches in back,
and the needle with the grafting yarn in front. Then work four graft-
ing steps for each stitch, depending on whether you’re working
stockinette stitch, reverse stockinette stitch, or garter stitch. Once
all the stitches are grafted, remove the lifeline, weave in the ends,
and admire your perfectly grafted cable pattern!
Plant
Matter
Yarn Fibra Natura Flax (100% linen; sts for back, with 3rd ball, CO 41 (47, back, place foll 47 (53, 60, 66, 73, 79, 86)
137 yd [125 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]): #12 Tarra- 55, 61, 67, 73, 81) sts for left front sts on holder for left front.
gon, 9 (11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 17) skeins. Yarn (see Notes)—173 (197, 227, 251, 277,
distributed by Universal Yarn. 301, 331) sts total. Do not join. Working RIGHT FRONT
Needles Size 2½ (3 mm): 32" circular 3 sections separately at the same time, Shape armhole: At beg of WS rows,
(cir) and set of double-pointed (dpn). work in Seed st (see Stitch Guide) for 2 BO 3 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8) sts once, then
Adjust needle size if necessary to rows. Inc row (RS) With first ball, work BO 0 (1, 1, 1, 4, 5, 6) st(s) 0 (2, 4, 6, 1,
obtain the correct gauge. in patt to last 2 sts of right front, p1f&b, 1, 1) time(s), then BO 1 st 0 (0, 0, 0,
Notions Markers (m); stitch holders; k1; with 2nd ball, k1f&b, work in patt 8, 11, 16) times—44 (46, 51, 54, 55,
6 (6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7) ¾" buttons; tapestry to last 2 sts of back, p1f&b, k1; with 3rd 56, 56) sts rem. Work even until armhole
needle. ball, k1f&b, work in patt to end of left measures 5 (5½, 6, 6, 6½, 6½, 7)", ending
Gauge 26 sts and 36 rows = 4" in St st. front—4 sts inc’d: 1 st for each front, with a WS row. Shape neck: At beg of RS
2 sts for back. Rep inc row every RS row rows, BO 8 sts once, then BO 5 sts once,
F G M
A: 15½ (17½, 19½, 21½, 23½, 25½, 27½)"
B: 7¼ (8¼, 9¼, 10¼, 11¼, 12¼, 13¼)"
E
H C: 15 (15, 15½, 15½, 16, 16, 16½)"
L
D D: 7¾ (8¼, 8¾, 9¼, 9¾, 10¼, 10¾)"
E: ½"
J F: 3¾ (4, 4½, 5, 5, 5, 5)"
BODY G: 7 (7¼, 7½, 7¾, 8¼, 8½, 8½)"
SLEEVE
19
17
DAINTY CHEVRON k on RS; p on WS
15
9 p on RS; k on WS
13
7 yo
11
5
9 k2tog
3
7
ssk
1
5
9 sts sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso
3
17 sts
7¾ (8¼, 8¾, 9¼, 9¾, 10¼, 10¾)", ending Short-row 3 Work to 8 (9, 10, 11, 11, rem. Work even until armhole measures
with a WS row. Shape shoulder using 11, 11) sts before double st, turn. 7¾ (8¼, 8¾, 9¼, 9¾, 10¼, 10¾)", ending
German short-rows as foll: Short-row 4 Make double st, work to end. with a RS row. Shape shoulder using Ger-
PLANT MATTER
Short-row 1 (RS) Work to last 8 (8, 10, Next row (RS) Work to end, working man short-rows as foll:
10, 10, 10, 10) sts, turn. double sts as single sts. Place sts on Short-row 1 (WS) Work to last 8 (8, 10,
Short-row 2 (WS) Make double st, work holder. Right shoulder: Return 27 (28, 10, 10, 10, 10) sts, turn.
to end. 32, 34, 34, 34, 34) held right shoulder Short-row 2 (RS) Make double st, work
Short-row 3 Work to 8 (9, 10, 11, 11, sts to needle and, with WS facing, to end.
11, 11) sts before double st, turn. rejoin yarn. At beg of WS rows, BO 1 st Short-row 3 Work to 8 (9, 10, 11, 11,
Short-row 4 Make double st, work to end. 2 times—25 (26, 30, 32, 32, 32, 32) sts 11, 11) sts before double st, turn.
Next row (RS) Work to end, working rem. Work even until armhole measures Short-row 4 Make double st, work to end.
double sts as single sts. Place sts on holder. 7¾ (8¼, 8¾, 9¼, 9¾, 10¼, 10¾)", ending Next row (WS) Work to end, working
with a RS row. Shape shoulder using Ger- double sts as single sts. Place sts on holder.
BACK man short-rows as foll:
Return 101 (113, 127, 139, 153, 165, 179) Short-row 1 (WS) Work to last 8 (8, 10, SLEEVES
back sts to needle and, with RS facing, 10, 10, 10, 10) sts, turn. With cir needle, CO 43 (49, 49, 49, 57,
rejoin yarn. Shape armholes: BO 3 (5, Short-row 2 (RS) Make double st, work 57, 57) sts. Do not join. Work in Seed st
5, 6, 6, 7, 8) sts at beg of next 2 rows, to end. for 2 rows. Inc row (RS) K1f&b, work in
then BO 0 (1, 1, 1, 4, 5, 6) st(s) at beg Short-row 3 Work to 8 (9, 10, 11, 11, patt to last 2 sts, p1f&b, k1—2 sts inc’d.
of foll 0 (4, 8, 12, 2, 2, 2) rows, then 11, 11) sts before double st, turn. Rep inc row every RS row 6 more times,
BO 1 st at beg of foll 0 (0, 0, 0, 16, 22, 32) Short-row 4 Make double st, work to end. working new sts into Seed st—57 (63,
rows—95 (99, 109, 115, 117, 119, 119) Next row (WS) Work to end, working 63, 63, 71, 71, 71) sts. Work 1 WS row.
sts rem. Work even until armhole double sts as single sts. Place sts on Change to dpn. Next row K4, p1,
measures 7 (7½, 8, 8½, 9, 9½, 10)", ending holder. k23 (26, 26, 26, 30, 30, 30), pm, k23 (26,
with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row 26, 26, 30, 30, 30), p1, k5. Join in the
(RS) Work 27 (28, 32, 34, 34, 34, 34) sts LEFT FRONT rnd, then knit to m; this is beg of rnd.
and place these sts on holder for right Return 47 (53, 60, 66, 73, 79, 86) held Set-up rnd K23 (26, 26, 26, 30, 30, 30),
shoulder, BO 41 (43, 45, 47, 49, 51, 51) sts to needle and, with RS facing, rejoin p1, pm, k9, pm, p1, knit to end. Inc rnd
sts, work to end—27 (28, 32, 34, 34, yarn. Shape armhole: At beg of RS K1, M1R, knit to 1 st before m, p1, sl m,
34, 34) sts rem for left shoulder. Left rows, BO 3 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8) sts once, work Dainty Chevron chart to m, p1, knit
shoulder: Work 1 WS row. At beg of then BO 0 (1, 1, 1, 4, 5, 6) st(s) 0 (2, 4, to last st, M1L, k1—2 sts inc’d. Cont in
RS rows, BO 1 st 2 times—25 (26, 30, 6, 1, 1, 1) time(s), then BO 1 st 0 (0, 0, patt, rep inc rnd every 15 (20, 15, 11, 11,
32, 32, 32, 32) sts rem. Work even until 0, 8, 11, 16) times—44 (46, 51, 54, 55, 7, 5)th rnd 9 (7, 4, 13, 13, 20, 6) more
armhole measures 7¾ (8¼, 8¾, 9¼, 9¾, 56, 56) sts rem. Work even until armhole times, then every 0 (0, 16, 0, 0, 0, 6)th
10¼, 10¾)", ending with a WS row. Shape measures 5 (5½, 6, 6, 6½, 6½, 7)", ending rnd 0 (0, 5, 0, 0, 0, 19) times—77 (79,
shoulder using German short-rows as foll: with a RS row. Shape neck: At beg of WS 83, 91, 99, 113, 123) sts. Work even
Short-row 1 (RS) Work to last 8 (8, 10, rows, BO 8 sts once, then BO 5 sts once, until piece measures 17½ (18, 18, 18, 18,
10, 10, 10, 10) sts, turn. then BO 2 sts once, then BO 2 (3, 3, 2, 3, 18½, 18½)" from CO, ending 3 (4, 5, 6,
Short-row 2 (WS) Make double st, work 4, 4) sts once, then BO 1 st 2 (2, 3, 5, 5, 6, 7, 8) sts before end of rnd on last rnd.
to end. 5, 5) times—25 (26, 30, 32, 32, 32, 32) sts Shape cap: Next row (RS) BO 6 (8, 10,
along right front edge. Work in Seed st for cotton, 30% linen; 123 yd [112 m]/1¾ oz every 4th row 11 (13, 14, 15, 16, 18) more
7 rows, ending with a WS row. Next row [50 g]): Mustard Seed, 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) times—270 (302, 332, 350, 380, 412) sts
(RS) Work in Seed st over 14 (16, 22, 22, skeins. when all shaping is complete: 39 (44, 48,
8, 8, 14) sts, ending with a purl st, *k2tog, Needles Size 6 (4 mm): 32" circular (cir) 50, 54, 59) sts for each front, 80 (90, 100,
[yo] 2 times, ssk, beg with a knit st, work and set of double-pointed (dpn). Size 106, 116, 126) sts for back, 56 (62, 68,
in Seed st over 18 sts; rep from * 4 (4, 4, 5 (3.75 mm): set of dpn. Adjust needle 72, 78, 84) sts for each sleeve. Work 1 WS
4, 5, 5, 5) more times, k2tog, [yo] 2 times, size if necessary to obtain the correct row—piece measures about 7½ (8½, 9¼,
ssk, work in Seed st over last 3 sts. Next gauge. 9½, 10½, 11¼)" from CO at center back.
row (WS) *Work in Seed st to double Notions Markers (m); stitch holders; Divide for body and sleeves: Next
yo, (k1, p1tbl) into double yo; rep from * one ¾" button; tapestry needle. row (RS) K1, [K1BL] 1 (0, 1, 0, 1, 0) time,
for all double yo, work in Seed st to end. Gauge 21 sts and 28 rows = 4" in St st *knit to m, remove m, place next 56 (62,
Work 6 more rows in Seed st. Loosely on larger needle.
BO all sts in patt. Neckband: With cir
?
needle and RS facing, beg at right front For techniques you don’t know, F
opening, pick up and k nit 135 (137, 139, please visit our online knitting G
E
147, 151, 161, 161) sts evenly spaced glossary at www.interweave.com
around neck edge, ending at left front /interweave-knitting-glossary.
D
opening. Work in Seed st for 3 rows.
Loosely BO all sts in patt. Weave in ends. NOTES H
Sew buttons to left front band opposite
buttonholes.
• This cardigan is worked back and
forth from the top down with raglan
BODY
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Interweave.com
LACE
27
25
23
21
19
17
15
13
SPRIGS TOP
11 FIONA MUNRO
9
Difficulty Level
7 Yarn Weight 2
Finished Size 30½ (34¼, 38, 42, 45¾,
5
49½, 52¼)" circumference at underarm.
3 Top shown measures 34¼"; modeled
with ¾" of negative ease.
1 Yarn Shibui Knits Twig (46% linen,
PLANT MATTER
k on RS; p on WS
19
17 k1tbl
15 k2tog
13
ssk
11
yo
9
7 sl 1, k2tog, psso
35 sts
D E
Work Seed st in rnds (see Stitch Guide) sts on holder for left front, BO 45 sts, F
for 1½", ending with Rnd 2 of patt, and work in patt to end—25 (31, 37, 43, 49,
inc 1 st on last rnd—190 (214, 238, 262, 55, 59) sts rem for right front. Right C
PLANT MATTER
286, 310, 326) sts. Next rnd *K30 (36, front: Dec row (WS) Purl to last 2 sts,
42, 48, 54, 60, 64), pm, work Lace chart ssp—1 st dec’d. Dec row (RS) Ssk,
over 35 sts, pm, k30 (36, 42, 48, 54, knit to end—1 st dec’d. Rep WS dec BODY
60, 64)*, pm for side, rep from * to * once row—22 (28, 34, 40, 46, 52, 56) sts
more. Cont in patt as established until rem. Work RS dec row every RS row B
piece measures 14½ (15, 15, 15½, 15½, 5 times—17 (23, 29, 35, 41, 47, 51) sts
16, 16)" from CO, ending with an odd- rem. Work even until armhole measures
numbered chart rnd. Next rnd *Work 8½ (9, 9, 9½, 9½, 10, 10)". BO all sts in
Rnd 2 of Seed st for 3 sts, work in patt as patt. Left front: Return 25 (31, 37, 43,
established to 3 sts before side m, work 49, 55, 59) held sts to needle and, with
A
Rnd 2 of Seed st for 3 sts, sl m; rep from * WS facing, rejoin yarn. Dec row (WS)
once more. Cont in patt for 4 more rnds, P2tog, purl to end—1 st dec’d. Dec row
ending with an even-numbered chart rnd (RS) Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—1 st dec’d. A: 30½ (34¼, 38, 42, 45¾, 49½, 52¼)"
and Rnd 2 of Seed st—piece measures Rep WS dec row—22 (28, 34, 40, 46, B: 15 (15½, 15½, 16, 16, 16½, 16½)"
15 (15½, 15½, 16, 16, 16½, 16½)" from 52, 56) sts rem. Work RS dec row every C: 8½ (9, 9, 9½, 9½, 10, 10)"
CO. Divide for front and back: Place RS row 5 times—17 (23, 29, 35, 41, D: 2¾ (3¾, 4¾, 5½, 6½, 7½, 8¼)"
last 95 (107, 119, 131, 143, 155, 163) sts 47, 51) sts rem. Work even until armhole E: 9¾"
worked on holder for front—95 (107, 119, measures 8½ (9, 9, 9½, 9½, 10, 10)". BO all F: 2½"
131, 143, 155, 163) back sts rem. Make sts in patt.
a note of last chart rnd completed so you
can resume patt on front with correct row FINISHING
(see Notes). Beg working back and forth Weave in ends. Block to measurements.
in rows. Sew shoulder seams. Neckband: With
RS facing, beg at left shoulder seam, pick
BACK up and knit 76 sts evenly spaced along
Work even until armhole measures 8½ (9, front neck edge and 61 sts along back
9, 9½, 9½, 10, 10)". BO all sts. neck edge—137 sts. Pm and join in the
rnd. Work Seed st in rnds for ½". BO all
FRONT sts in patt.
Return 95 (107, 119, 131, 143, 155, 163)
front sts to needle and, with RS facing, FIONA MUNRO’s grandmother taught
rejoin yarn. Beg with next odd-numbered her to knit at six years old, and she has
chart row worked as a RS row, work even been an avid knitter ever since. Fiona
until armhole measures 6 (6½, 6½, 7, 7, grew up on a small island in Canada and
7½, 7½)", ending with a WS row. Shape now lives in Scotland. Her design style is
neck: Next row (RS) Work 25 (31, classic with a modern twist. Find her on
37, 43, 49, 55, 59) sts and place these Ravelry as MunroSisters3.
(100% bamboo; 578 yd [529 m]/1¾ oz 62 (68, 72, 80, 88, 98, 102) sts for each
[50 g]): #2 Silver, 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5) skeins. sleeve. Divide for body and sleeves:
Needles Size 3 (3.25 mm): 16" and Work to raglan m, remove m, place next
32" circular (cir) and set of double- 62 (68, 72, 80, 88, 98, 102) sts on holder
pointed (dpn). Size 4 (3.5 mm): 16" and for sleeve, remove m, using the backward-
32" cir. Adjust needle size if necessary loop method, CO 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts, pm
to obtain the correct gauge. for side, CO 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts, knit to
Notions Markers (m); stitch holders; raglan m, remove m, place next 62 (68, 72,
tapestry needle. 80, 88, 98, 102) sts on holder for sleeve,
Gauge 26 sts and 34 rnds = 4" in remove m, CO 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts, pm
St st on larger needle, with yarn held for new beg of rnd, CO 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6)
double. sts, join in the rnd—204 (220, 236, 264,
284, 320, 344) sts rem for body. SLEEVES
LUXE
Fibers
QIVIUT TRADITIONS
THE FIBER OF THE FAR NORTH
BY SOPHIA MINAKAIS
Oomingmak: the musk ox. Translated from programs to help reintroduce the native herds, the populations
Inukitut, oomingmak means “the bearded slowly returned. Musk oxen now thrive in safe numbers in Canada,
Greenland, and Alaska.
one”—a description that perfectly depicts the Musk oxen are incredibly social animals, living in herds of 10
shaggy, horned bovine that is the musk ox. or more, depending on the time of year. The irresistibly cute musk
ox calves are born in late spring and early summer and will grow
Closely related to those adorable little sheep
to a height of four to five feet and weigh as much as 800 pounds by
you saw at Rhinebeck, these furry fellows create adulthood. A musk ox may live up to 20 years in the wild. These
the wber of your dreams. days, many are raised domestically on protected reserves and farms,
such as the Musk Ox Farm in Palmer, Alaska, and the Large Animals
The first traces of the musk ox date back to the Pleistocene Research Station, run by the University of Alaska Fairbanks. Small
Epoch, when musk oxen were widespread and their habitats ranged musk ox farms are great places to go to see the animals up close.
all around the northern polar regions of Greenland and Russia. If the opportunity befalls you to visit a musk ox farm, be sure to
Historians speculate that the ancient forefathers of the musk ox bring your camera! The playful young calves will make the whole
emigrated across the Bering Land Bridge about 100,000 years ago trip worthwhile.
to settle the North American continent. If you had lived at the end Though well protected from most predators by their large frames
of the last ice age—around 12,000 years ago—you may have seen and imposing curled horns, the musk ox herds sometimes fall prey
a musk ox walking down Main Street in Wichita, Kansas. But as to bears and packs of wolves. As is usually the case in the animal
the climate changed and the glaciers retreated, the musk ox herds kingdom, calves are the prime target for a hungry predator. To protect
headed farther north, too. At the turn of the twentieth century, the the calves, threatened musk ox herds converge into semicircle forma-
musk ox populations faced near disaster and numbers dropped to tions—with the bulls taking up the first line of defense, backed by
all-time lows, threatening the Alaskan population with extinction. the cows and adolescents, while the small calves remain protected
With the aid of increased hunting regulations and monitoring in the back of the herd.
In an atypical twist of animal behavior, the cows take control of of Inuit knitting, and, as with all the great knitting traditions, patterns
the herd during the winter months and direct all herd activities until are handed down through generations of knitters. Inuit patterns often
the calves are born. After calving, control of the herd returns to the represent places and things found in nature. The nachaq (or smoke-
bulls, who retain command throughout the mating season. ring) is the most traditional garment. Similar to a cowl, the nachaq
Just like sheep and other animals, the musk ox is equipped with is a long tubular piece of knitted fabric worn over the head to cover
a dual-layered coat to help it survive the harsh polar winters, when the neck, head, and ears during bitter winter months. Other common
temperatures can drop as low as -70°F. Each year, during the spring accessories include scarves, stoles, and hats.
molt, the musk oxen release their downy winter undercoats of soft Today, the Inuits share their rich knitting tradition through the
brown fiber, referred to as qiviut (pronounced keevee-uht). Among Oomingmak Cooperative, selling nachaqs, hats, tunics, and other
the native people who live in musk ox country, qiviut was often taken accessories—all handmade by Inuit women in the coastal villages
for granted and casually collected from the ground, just as you might of Alaska. The Oomingmak Cooperative also sells yarn so others can
pick up berries, autumn leaves, or pine cones in your neighborhood. enjoy the experience of qiviut handknitting. Qiviut yarns are also
The best qiviut is combed directly from the musk oxen during the available in greater variety from Windy Valley Musk ox, Arctic Qiviut,
molt, never touching the ground, where trampling and dirt acquisition Pascuali Yarns, and others.
will reduce the fiber’s value. A single musk ox may produce four to If you want to try knitting with qiviut, there a few things to keep
seven pounds of qiviut per year—enough to make about 20,000 yards in mind. Although musk oxen are no longer endangered, there are
of laceweight yarn. still a limited number of them. Likewise, the process of collecting
Qiviut is one of the most amazing all-natural fibers. At more than the fiber and producing these exquisite yarns is quite laborious. For
$50 an ounce, qiviut is valued higher than silver—and for good reason! these reasons, qiviut fiber is very expensive. The truth is that you
Qiviut is one of the softest natural fibers, second only to vicuña. In get what you pay for. While possibly costing up to $100, a hank of
warmth, it is second only to angora. Qiviut fiber does not felt like qiviut yarn will take you to knitter’s heaven! As with most luxury
sheep’s wool and is amazingly lightweight. If you’ve ever worked with fibers, qiviut is most often used for accents or small accessories.
yak fiber, it’s a similar experience. But even yak, while incredibly Nachaqs, cowls, scarves, or hats are good choices. Natural brown is
alluring, is no match for qiviut. With fiber diameters as low as the most common color of qiviut yarn, which creates a beautiful,
10 microns, qiviut will please even the most discerning recipient. natural-looking finished piece. If you love color, look for the deep-
Although qiviut has only recently come into the eye of the main- jeweled tones available from many of the qiviut yarn producers. Most
stream knitting community, the Inuits have been enjoying the delight- qiviut yarns are lace or fingering weight, so plan your project accord-
ful fiber for generations. Inuit knitting tradition combines cold-weather ingly. Qiviut begs for lace, and, considering how warm it is, you’ll be
practicality with beautiful patternwork. Geometric lace is a staple sorry if you don’t have some eyelets to let out all the heat! Pick a
pattern that has been well tested to ensure you won’t have to frog
your work as a result of pattern errors. A qiviut project is a special
treat, so don’t rush it. Whether making a gift for a good friend or for
yourself, be sure to enjoy the knitting!
It’s true that qiviut is an expensive, luxury fiber. But it’s also a
luxury experience, great for that one special project: a keepsake for
the first grandchild, a wedding present, or your grandmother’s birth-
day gift. It’s worth the price for the enjoyment you’ll get from knitting,
wearing, and sharing your beautiful piece of qiviut tradition.
RESOURCES
Oomingmak Cooperative (www.qiviut.com)
The Musk Ox Farm (www.muskoxfarm.org)
Windy Valley Musk ox (www.windyvalleymuskox.net)
Arctic Qiviut (www.arcticqiviut.com)
GETTY IMAGES/ REMSBURG INC
Needles Size 4 (3.5 mm). Adjust needle [25 g]): #A01 Charcoal, 2 balls.
size if necessary to obtain the correct FINISHING Needles Sizes 2 (2.75 mm) and 5
gauge. Weave in ends. Block to measurements. (3.75 mm): 16" circular (cir). Size 5
Notions Cable needle (cn); tapestry Fold piece in half to form a tube and (3.75 mm): set of double-pointed (dpn).
needle. sew selvedge edges tog, leaving a 2" Adjust needle size if necessary to
Gauge 29 sts and 29 rows = 4" in un-seamed opening for thumb 2" from obtain the correct gauge.
Cluster Lace patt. top edge. Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle.
Gauge 28 sts and 35 rnds = 4" in Twig
glossary at www.interweave.com
/interweave-knitting-glossary.
Morticia, the matriarch on the original
The Addams Family television series. A
trained engineer and retired high school
? For techniques you don’t know,
please visit our online knitting
glossary at www.interweave.com
NOTES pre-engineering teacher, Sherrie enjoys /interweave-knitting-glossary.
• These mitts are worked back and
forth and seamed to form a tube,
using her knitting skills to create designs
that focus on simple, clear solutions to NOTES
with an opening for the thumb. knitting challenges. • This hat is worked in the round from
the bottom up.
• For Twig Lace, the beginning of the
round shifts three stitches to the
right at the end of Row 6, and three
stitches to the left at the end of
Row 12.
HAT
With smaller cir needle, CO 140 sts. Place
marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work
Rows 1–8 of Cluster Rib chart 4 times.
Next rnd [Work 45 sts in patt, M1]
3 times, work 5 sts—143 sts. Change to
larger cir needle. Work Rows 1–12 of Twig
Lace chart 4 times, then work Rows 1–6
once more, working marked rows as foll:
Row 6 Work to last 3 sts, pm for new beg
of rnd (remove old beg-of-rnd m when
you come to it).
DEVONSHIRE BEANIE
MONE DRÄGER
Difficulty Level
Yarn Weight 4
Finished Size 16½ (18¼, 20¼)" circum-
ference and 7¼ (7½, 7¾)" tall (with brim
folded). Hat shown measures 18¼".
Yarn Lang Yarns Cashmere Light
(88% cashmere, 12% nylon; 93 yd
[85 m]/ 7⁄8 oz [25 g]): #96 Champagne,
LUXE FIBERS
3 (3, 4) balls. Yarn distributed by Berroco.
Needles Size 8 (5 mm): 16" circular (cir)
and set of double-pointed (dpn). Adjust
needle size if necessary to obtain the
correct gauge.
Notions Markers (m); cable needle (cn);
size H/8 (5 mm) crochet hook; waste
yarn for provisional CO; waste yarn
CLUSTER RIB in another color for lifeline; tapestry
needle.
Gauge 22 sts and 36 rnds = 4" in St st.
7
3
TWIG LACE
? For techniques you don’t know,
please visit our online knitting
glossary at www.interweave.com
12 * /interweave-knitting-glossary.
1 11
5-st rep NOTES
9
7
• First, the cable panel is worked in
This hat is worked in three sections:
BN
FN
chart). Do not join. Work Rows 1–16 of Cable Step 1 Insert tapestry needle pwise into st
chart 8 (9, 10) times, then work Rows 1–14 on front needle, leave st on needle.
K
Step 2 Insert tapestry needle kwise into st
P
of chart once more. Break yarn, leaving a 20"
tail for grafting. Grafting: With 2nd waste on back needle, remove st from needle.
K
P
yarn threaded on a tapestry needle (Photos Step 3 Insert tapestry needle pwise into
P
8–10 of article on page 38), run waste yarn next st on back needle, leave st on needle.
through each working-yarn loop on CO edge Step 4 Insert tapestry needle kwise into st
K
for lifeline. Remove waste yarn chain from on front needle, remove st from needle.
K
provisional CO and place 30 sts onto dpn,
foll path of lifeline through sts (Photos 12 Sequence B (knit st on front needle,
P
and 13). With 6" tail threaded on a tapestry knit st on back needle)
K
needle, create an extra st on same needle Step 1 Insert tapestry needle pwise into st
by wrapping tail over needle from WS to RS on front needle, leave st on needle.
P
and then through an edge st to WS of work Step 2 Insert tapestry needle pwise into st
P
(Photo 14)—31 sts. Holding needles parallel on back needle, remove st from needle.
K
with CO sts in back, WS tog, and with graft- Step 3 Insert tapestry needle kwise into
ing tail threaded on a tapestry needle, graft next st on back needle, leave st on needle.
P
sts in patt foll chart or written instructions. Step 4 Insert tapestry needle kwise into st
K
Note: In the written instructions, the on front needle, remove st from needle.
sequences appear first, followed by the order
work 2 times
in which the sequences are worked.
P
K
K
LUXE FIBERS
P
K knitwise
P
P purlwise SEQUENCE A SEQUENCE B SEQUENCE C
K
FN front needle P K BN K P BN P K BN
P
BN back needle
K
K P FN K P FN P K FN
pattern repeat
P
K
K
P
P
CABLE
K
K
15
K
K
P
13
K
11
P
9
P
7
K
5
P
3
K
1
K
K
P
30 sts
K
K
P
k on RS; p on WS
P
P
GRAFTING
p on RS; k on WS
K
K
K
sl 6 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, p2, k2, (k2, p2, k2) from cn
K
P
sl 6 sts onto cn, hold in front, k2, p2, k2, (k2, p2, k2) from cn
Learn more at
Interweave.com
Sequence C (purl st on front needle, FINISHING
purl st on back needle) Weave in ends except CO and grafting
Step 1 Insert tapestry needle kwise into tails. Block. Return live sts to needle.
st on front needle, leave st on needle. With 2nd waste yarn threaded on a
Step 2 Insert tapestry needle kwise into tapestry needle (Photos 8–11 of article
st on back needle, remove st from needle. on page 38), run waste yarn through
Step 3 Insert tapestry needle pwise into each working-yarn loop on CO edge for
next st on back needle, leave st on needle. lifeline. Remove waste yarn chain from
Step 4 Insert tapestry needle pwise into provisional CO and place 42 sts onto 2nd
st on front needle, remove st from needle. needle, foll path of lifeline through sts
(Photos 12 and 13). With 6" tail threaded
Graft in patt: Work Sequence A once, on a tapestry needle, create an extra st on
work Sequence B once, *work Sequence same needle by wrapping tail over needle
C 2 times, work Sequence B 2 times, from WS to RS and then through an edge
work Sequence C 2 times, work Sequence st to WS of work (Photo 14)—43 sts.
B 4 times; rep from * once more, work ARCTIC HEADBAND Holding needles parallel with CO sts in
Sequence C 2 times, work Sequence B KATE SCALZO back, WS tog, and needle points facing
2 times, work Sequence C 2 times, work the same direction, thread grafting tail
Sequence B once, work Sequence A once, Difficulty Level onto a tapestry needle and graft sts in
removing st from back needle on step 3 of Yarn Weight 0 patt foll chart or written instructions.
last sequence (see Photo 1 for completed Finished Size 18¾" circumference and Note: In the written instructions, the
graft). Remove lifeline. Brim: With cir 5¼" wide. sequences appear first, followed by the
needle and RS facing, pick up and knit Yarn Musk Ox Farm Qiviut (100% qiviut; order in which the sequences are worked.
92 (100, 112) sts evenly spaced along left 185 yd [169 m]/1 oz [28 g]): Natural,
edge of cable panel. Place marker (pm) 2 skeins. Sequence A (purl st on front needle,
and join in the rnd. Work in k2, p2 rib for Needles Size 3 (3.25 mm). Adjust purl st on back needle)
LUXE FIBERS
4". BO all sts in patt. Top of hat: With needle size if necessary to obtain the Step 1 Insert tapestry needle kwise into
cir needle and RS facing, pick up and knit correct gauge. st on front needle, leave st on needle.
90 (100, 110) sts evenly spaced along Notions Cable needle (cn); size E/4 Step 2 Insert tapestry needle kwise into
other edge of cable panel. Pm and join in (3.5 mm) crochet hook; waste yarn for st on back needle, remove st from needle.
the rnd. Knit 8 (10, 12) rnds, or to 1½" provisional CO; waste yarn in another Step 3 Insert tapestry needle pwise into
less than desired finished height. Shape color for lifeline; tapestry needle. next st on back needle, leave st on needle.
crown: Note: Change to dpn when Gauge 42 sts = 5¼" wide and 32 rows = Step 4 Insert tapestry needle pwise into
necessary. Next rnd [K8, k2tog, pm] 3¾" tall in patt with yarn held double. st on front needle, remove st from needle.
8 (9, 10) times, k8, k2tog—81 (90, 99)
sts rem. Next rnd Knit. Dec rnd *Knit
to 2 sts before m, k2tog; rep from * to
end—9 (10, 11) sts dec’d. Rep dec rnd ev-
? For techniques you don’t know,
please visit our online knitting
glossary at www.interweave.com
Sequence B (knit st on front needle,
knit st on back needle)
Step 1 Insert tapestry needle pwise into
ery other rnd 3 more times—45 (50, 55) /interweave-knitting-glossary. st on front needle, leave st on needle.
sts rem. Knit 1 rnd. Rep dec rnd every Step 2 Insert tapestry needle pwise into
rnd 4 times—9 (10, 11) sts rem. Break NOTES st on back needle, remove st from needle.
yarn and draw tail through rem sts. Pull
tight to gather sts and fasten off on WS.
• This headband is worked back and
forth in rows, beginning with a pro-
Step 3 Insert tapestry needle kwise into
next st on back needle, leave st on needle.
visional cast-on. The ends are grafted Step 4 Insert tapestry needle kwise into
FINISHING together in pattern. See the article on st on front needle, remove st from needle.
Weave in ends. Block. Make a 3" pom- page 38 for more information about
pom and attach to top of hat. grafting in the cable pattern. Sequence C (1/2 LC on front needle;
BN
FN
needle. Work Sequence B 3 times. professional who lives in San Diego,
California, with her husband and two
K
Graft in patt: Work Sequence A once, high-energy little boys. In her previous
P
work Sequence C once, work Sequence line of work, she cared for textile
P
A once, work Sequence D once, work collections ranging from Victorian
Sequence A once, work Sequence B once, wedding gowns to quilt collections to
K
work Sequence A 6 times, *work Sequence centuries-old weavings, so handmade
P
B once, work Sequence A 2 times; rep fiber art continues to hold a special
K
from * 2 more times, work Sequence B place in her heart.
P
once, work Sequence A 6 times, work
K
Sequence B once, work Sequence A once,
K
work Sequence C once, work Sequence
P
A once, work Sequence D once, work
Sequence A once, removing st from back
P
needle on step 3 of last sequence (see
K
BN
FN
Photo 2 for completed graft). Remove 2nd
P
waste yarn. Weave in ends.
K
P
P
SEQUENCE D
P
K
K
P
K
K
P
P
P
K
6 times
LUXE FIBERS
work
K
K
15
13
11
P
BN
FN
P
K
3 times
work
K
K
P
P
SEQUENCE C
P
K
K
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k1, k2 from cn
sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, p1, k1 from cn
sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k1, p1 from cn
K
P
P
K
P
P
work 6 times
K
K
K
K
P
P
P
P
BN
FN
SEQUENCE B
K
K
K
P
P
K
K
42 sts
P
K
K
P
P
BN
FN
K
SEQUENCE A
P
K
K
K
K
P
P
sl 1 pwise wyb on RS;
sl 1 pwise wyf on WS
P
k on RS; p on WS
p on RS; k on WS
K
pattern repeat
P
front needle
back needle
K
purlwise
knitwise
P
GRAFTING
K
CABLE
K
K
FN
BN
website or
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We have what you need! 90 High St. gifts and antiques.
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ANIMAL
VEGETABLE
YARN
These are just some of the critters and plants
to thank for so many quality and different
yarns that we knitters get to enjoy. You can
spot many of them in this issue and all of
them on farms or in the wild.
How many of these plants and animals
can you name, and do you know what
fibers they each create?
Join us in our retreat-style knitting events where you will learn one-on-one from fantastic
instructors in the most beautiful destinations. Enjoy the small intimate group where you will
be surrounded by others who have the same passion for knitting.
Visit Interweave.com/Interweave-Escapes
Two Luxury Knitting Retreats; Northwest Ireland & Southwest Ireland
We have chosen two of Ireland’s most scenic lakeside hotels for our luxury knitting
retreats; the Parknasilla Resort in Kerry and Harvey’s Point in Donegal. Spend 4
nights in your luxury retreat location with knitting workshops on site plus optional
touring throughout. Additional sightseeing & hotels also included!
Also Included:
Hotels, Sightseeing
Tours, Entrance
Fees, Meals, Craft
Demonstrations and
Knitting Workshops!
www.KnittingTours.com
Toll Free: 1800 913 1135
Info@knittingtours.com
P.S Check out our website for more tours!