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Fastness properties
EXPERIMENTAL The washing, rubbing, perspiration and light fastness
properties were evaluated according to standard methods
MatelialS [161*
Cotton fabric, mill-scoured and bleached (130 g/m2),was
kindly supplied by the Misr Helwan Company for
Spinning and Weaving, Helwan, Egypt. The fabric was RESULTS A N D DISCUSSION
first treated with a solution containing 3 gA soap and 5 gA
sodium carbonate for 4 h at the boil, then thoroughly Effect of dyestuff concentration
washed and air dried. l,l-Dimethyl-3-hydroxyazetidin- Unmodified cotton (A) and cotton modified with Sandene
ium chloride (DMA-AC) and l,l-diethyl-3-hydroxy- (I), DMA-AC (II ) DEA-AC 0,
and with nitrogen contents
azetidinium chloride (DEA-AC) were prepared by a of zero, 0.39%,0.47%and 0.27%,were dyed with dye 1 (1-
method described previously [12]. The cationic polymer, 5% owf). From Figure 1it can be observed that the colour
Sandene 8425 liquid (S), was of technical grade. strength increased with dye concentration applied to the
modified cotton samples, whereas in the case of
Dyestuffs unmodified cotton the colour strength was very low,
Acid dyes were used. All the dyes were of a commercial because acid dyes have very low affinity for cellulose.
grade and are listed in Bble 1. In the case of modified cotton, the colour strength after
washing and treatment with DMF and nitrogen content
Preparation of Chemically modified cellulose decreased in the order: I1 > I > III. This behaviour is
Modified celluloses (labelled 1-111 in Table 2) were attributed to the forces of attraction between cationic sites
prepared using Sandene 8425, DMA-AC and DEA-AC in the modified cotton and anionic sulphonic acid groups
accordingto a method described in the literature [12]. present in the structure of dyestuff, which make the dye
Effect of temperature
Figure 4 shows a progressive increase in colour strength of
the modified cotton with dyeing temperature over the
range 60-100 “C. It is therefore advisable to carry out the
dyeing of the modified cotton fabrics at 100 “c. Increasing
the temperature allows for the swelling of the amorphous
region in the cellulose, which leads to a higher colour
strength.
Effect of dyestuff structure Figure 5 Effect of dyeing time on the /US value using 3% dye 1 and
For the different dyes listed in ’Igble2, it is seen that the no salt at p~ 7
BOOKREVIEW
Handbook of Fibre Finish T h o h g y , by Philip E duct. Individual chapters range across various
Slade (New York Marcel Dekker Inc., 1997) 522pp. subjects,suchasthecomponentsofthespinfinish:
Rice:$175.00(ISBN0 8247 0048 1). lubricants, emulsifiers, antistatic agents, anti-
microbial compounds, antioxidants, defoamers,
The author Philip Slade is owner of and consultant wetting agents, soil-and stain-resistant products.
with Gulf Research Services, Pensacola, Florida. Other chapters deal with testing of these com-
He has a chemistry background, practical ponents and their environmental degradation,
experience in the field of fibre finishes, and is the and the roles of tension, friction and lubrication,
author of another book plus several technical thus providing a necessary background to the
papers. He is also the holder of two US patents. All reader interested in the development of spin
of this experience makes him well qualified to finishes.
write a book on fibre finishing technology. The The book contains extensive technical inform-
book itself is targeted at technologists and ation including many tables, graphs and chemical
chemists involved in the development of spin structures, which are all very clear and well
finishesfor synthetic fibres.It should be of interest referenced.Thebookiswellindexedandcantains
to people involved in other areas of textile extensive references at the end of each chapter; a
production as well, such as those who have an total of 916references throughout the book The
interest in specific topics associated with textiles, authoristobecongratulatedonproducingawork
e.g. antistatic agents, wetting agents, anti- that is very easy to read and follow.
microbials,soil-and stain-resistantfinishes.
The book covers the chemistry, physics and
engineeringof spin finishes and th& components,
and the testing and production of the final pro- CATHERINEWHITEHOUSE