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SPINNING PEER REVIEWED

The Process Dynamics of Egyptian Cotton G-86


with a Compact Spinning Machine
Ibrahim A. Elhawary1* & Mohamed Y. Naeim2
1
Alex Univercity, Egypt
2
SETT-COR Spin Mill, Egypt

Abstract
In the present work, Giza 86 cotton (long staple cotton) was used to produce a different fine yarn
with counts 14.7, 11.8, 10.5, 9.8, and 7.4tex on both of compact and ring spinning frames. The
different yarn properties like, CVm%, tenacity, elongation, and hairiness were measured for both
the two type of yarns. The relative yarn quality factor RYQF was calculated to detect the more
suitable range of yarn counts for the compact spinning it was found that it ranges from 1.1 to 1.3
for range of yarn tex from 14.7 to 7.4 referring to the hairiness reduction it was found to be 31%
for yam tex 9.8 the improvement in the yarn breaking elongation was 10%, the improvement in
the yarn tenacity was 14%, while the reduction in the turns per meter in the compact spinning
was 4%. And improvement in the yam mass variation was about 5%. On the other hand it was
found that the improvement in the single compact yarn total imperfections was not statistically
significant, But generally it was found that the yarn total imperfections of the single yarn were
less for the compact spun yarns compared with the conventional ring spun yarns especially for
the fine counts.

1. Introduction applied onto the yarn. Fibers are caught by the air
Compact spinning is a new conversion for the ring current in the perforated drum soon after they leave
spinning and it started to be applied in the Egyptian the nip point until they reach the nip point. The air
spinning industry in the last few years but it is still not current influences the fibers to pass along the slot and
commonly used. Nowadays some of new spinning mills therefore the fibers are condensed by means of the
in Egypt started to install more updated compact spin- aerodynamic forces caused by the air current [5]. (See
ning machines as Rieter K44 compact spinning. figure -1.1)

So studying & evaluating the fine yarn quality pro- There have been numerous studies performed on the
duced by the new ring spinning technology of com- different compact spinning systems in order to study
pact spinning from Egyptian cotton, within long term and compare the compact yarn characteristics with the
period of time (5 years) could be a key for gaining a conventional ring spun yarn, Guldemet Basal [1],
competitive advantage over companies in an industry. Chang et al. [2], Cheng et al. [4], Krifa et al. [6,7],
With the ever-changing textile industry and many Stalder [10] Momir et al. [9], Nasir [8], Cankut et al.
manufacturers moving overseas, the compact spinning [3]. These researches concluded that the Compact yarns
technology could lead to the competitive edge the are claimed to be stronger and have better breaking
Egyptian spinning industry needs for producing super elongation compared with the conventional ring spun
quality fine yarns. yarns, also stated that compact spinning greatly re-
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

duced the hairiness of yarns.


Rieter compact spinning principle depends on replac-
ing the bottom delivery roller with a perforated drum
with larger diameter. Inside the perforated drum, there
is a stationary suction insert having a slot in direction
of fiber flow so that an extra transverse force could be

*All the correspondence should be addressed to,


Prof. (Dr.) Ibrahim Elhawary,
Faculty of Eng, Alex Univercity, Egypt.
E-mial : hawary_45@yahoo.com Figure 1.1: Rieter compact spinning principle [5]

March - April 2016 361


SPINNING

Our practical experience with compact spinning for sured by Uster Tensorapid 4. The measured results of
more than 5 years working with 41,000 Rieter com- conventional and compact spinning were compared and
pact spinning spindles (K44 M/C) producing different statistically analyzed by SPSS program (Statistical
fine yarn counts produced from Egyptian cotton make Package for Social Science).
our aim in this investigation is to study how far the
Table 2.2: Processing parameters for yarn counts from
compact spinning improve the quality of the Egyptian
14.7tex to 7.4tex G86
fine cotton yarns.
Parameter Count Doubling Speeds Notes
2. Material and methods Process (output)
HVI spectrum Bale Manger Software tests was used Carding 4.54 ktex ......... 83 m/min Cylinder
which selects sixty four bales from long staple Egyp- Speed = 400rpm
tian cotton G86. Table 2.1 summarized the average Lickerin
speed = 1300rpm
fiber test results for the selected bales. Breaker
Draw
Table 2.1: Physical fiber Characteristics of G86 cotton Frame 4.54 ktex 5 600 m/min
from HVI spectrum Unilap 70 ktex 28 120 m/min Lap length = 300m.
Combing 4.9 ktex 8 350 Noil=17%
Spinning Fineness Maturity Upper half Uniformity Short Strength Elongation
nips/min
Consistency (μg/inch) (%) mean length index fiber (gm/tex) (%)
Index (mm) index Finisher
Draw
SCI MIC. Mat. Len. Unf. SFI Str. Elg.
Frame 4.9 ktex 8 400m/min
200 4.66 95 32.42 86.9 5.78 45,4 5.78 Speed
frame 491.6 tex 1 1000rpm atex=960.2
The selected cotton bales were preceded in the spin- TPI= (1.1 )
ning mill under the mill running condition to produce
combed yarn of counts 14.7, 11.8, 10.5, 9.8, and 7.4tex 3. Results and discussions
on both a conventional ring spinning machine, and a The summary of the test results for several cotton spun
compact spinning machine as sown in Table 2.2. The yarn counts produced on both of the compact and the
yarns produced were tested according to ASTM. The conventional ring spinning M/c are given in Table 3.3.
mass irregularity, yarn hairiness, and yarn faults were The results were statistically tested by t -test and given
measured by Uster tester 4 (UT4). Yarn tenacity (cN/ in Table 3.4.
tex)*, and yarn breaking elongation (%) were mea-

Table 3.3: The average results of Warp combed yarns

Count Cotton TPM a_tex U% CVm% `Thin Thick Neps/ Total Hairiness Elong. Elong. Tenacity Tenacity
(tex) -50% +50% +200% IPI Index % Cv% cN / tex Cv%
Compact Spinning

/ Km / Km Km
14.7 G86 945 3630 9.49 11.94 0.48 9.13 7.24 16.85 3.13 4.99 8.52 26.09 7.33
11.8 G86 1102 3780 9.84 12.42 1.00 16.05 12.50 29.55 2.76 4.76 9.09 26.20 7.84
10.5 G86 1130 3660 9.48 11.83 1.13 9.00 22.00 32.13 2.87 4.48 9.20 25.28 8.00
9.8 G86 1175 3680 9.82 12.35 1.67 11.42 19.57 32.66 2.50 4.73 9.20 26.38 8.40
7.4 G86 1408 3820 11.65 14.00 22.62 34.40 42.00 99.02 2.46 4.41 9.70 24.17 10.45
14.7 G86 996 3820 9.68 12.17 1.09 7.55 8.95 17.59 3.86 4.64 8.33 24.27 7.51
Conventional
Ring Spinning

11.8 G86 1122 3850 10.28 12.94 3.04 16.30 17.42 36.76 3.63 4.43 9.27 23.04 7.81
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

10.5 G86 1130 3660 9.93 12.45 2.90 9.10 25.50 37.50 3.75 3.92 8.80 22.62 8.50
9.8 G86 1220 3820 10.60 13.37 9.90 23.09 43.20 76.19 3.63 4.09 8.90 21.90 8.90
7.4 G86 1496 4040 11.83 14.90 57.80 49.00 47.60 154.40 3.33 4.22 10.10 20.70 10.40

JTA : An effective marketing tool for


strengthening business promotion
362 March - April 2016
SPINNING

Table 3.4: Statistical analysis results of Warp compact & ring spun yarn properties (t-test)

Yarn Count (tex) 14.7 11.8 10.5 9.8 7.4


Yarn type Ring Comp. Ring Comp. Ring Comp. Ring Comp. Ring Comp.
Twist Multiplier 3820 3630 3850 3780 3660 3660 3820 3680 4040 3 820
(atex)
Yarn Prop. P* P* P* P* P*
Mass Variation 0.004*** 0.000*** 0.000*** 0.000*** 0.011***
[CVm%]
Thin Places 0.009*** 0.000*** 0.000*** 0.000*** 0.025***
[+50%/ Km]
Thick Places
[+50%/Km] 0.075** 0.146** 0.18** 0.465** 0.012***
Neps
[200%/ Km] 0.018*** 0.000*** 0.000*** 0.000*** 0.228**
Total Imperfections 0.611** 0.056** 0.000*** 0.000*** 0.007***
Yarn Hairiness [H] 0.000*** 0.000*** 0.000*** 0.000*** 0.005***
Yarn Tenacity 0.000*** 0.000*** 0.000*** 0.000*** 0.002***
[cN/ tex]
Yarn Elongation
[E %] 0.24*** 0.53** 0.000*** 0.000*** 0.000***

(*Significance values, ** the results are not statistically significant, *** the results are statistically significant)

3.1 Yarn mass variation These figures illustrates that, the yarn mass variation
Figure 3.2 shows the relationship between the yarn of the single compact spun yarn is lower than the yarn
mass variation of compact and conventional ring spun mass variation of the single conventional ring spun
yarn versus yarn count. yarn by about 5%. That improvement in the single
yarn mass variation was found to be statistically sig-
nificant as shown in Table 3.4. This may be related to
the compact yarn structure and more fibers integrated
to the yarn body.

Figure 3.3 shows the relationship between the total


yarn imperfections versus yarn count for warp com-
pact & conventional ring spun yarn. Figure 3.3 illus-
trates that for warp yarn count 14.7&11.8tex the total
Figure 3.2: Mean total imperfections of different yarn imperfections for single compact and conventional ring
counts of Compact and ring yarns. spun yarn appeared to be similar, also from Table 3.4
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

it was found that there is no statistical significance


between the yarn total imperfections of single com-
pact & ring spun yarn for yarn count 14.7&11.8tex but
when the count goes to finer side (10.5 to7.4tex) it
was found that the total yam imperfections for single
conventional ring spun yarn increase more than the
compact spun yam and that increment is statistically
significant.
Figure 3.3: Mass variations of different yarn counts of
compact and ring yarns.

March - April 2016 363


SPINNING

3.2 Yarn total imperfections (IPI) This may be related to the mechanism of the yarn
This improvement may be due to the suction applied formation on the compact spinning. It could be con-
in the condensation area that suction during machine cluded that the compact spinning makes a significant
running sucks the dust, very small trash and very short improvement in the single yarn hairiness.
fiber. By the way the suction inserts could be blocked. 3.4 Yarn strength
Also may be due to the mechanism of the yarn forma-
tion of the compact yarn which reduce the spinning
triangle hence reduce the fly fibers in the spinning
room. In general the total yam imperfections of single
compact yarn are better than the total yarn imperfec-
tions of the equivalent single conventional ring spun
yarn count by about 34%.

Figure 3.5: Tenacity of different yarn counts of


compact and ring yarns.

Figure 3.5 shows the relationship of yarn tenacity versus


yarn count for warp compact and conventional warp
ring spun yarn.

Figure 3.4: Hairiness index of different yarn counts of This figure illustrates that yarn tenacity of single com-
compact and ring yarns. pact spun yarn is higher than the yarn tenacity of the
single conventional ring spun yarn for yarn counts
Figure 3.4 shows the relationship of the yarn hairiness (14.7, 11.8, 10.5, 9.8, and 7.4tex), in spite of the turns
index versus yarn count. This figure illustrates that the per meter given to the single compact yarn is less than
hairiness level of the single compact yarn is lower the turns per meter for the single conventional ring
than the level of the single conventional ring spun spun yarn count by about 4% it was found that the
yarn. The reduction in yarn hairiness level reaches for increase in the yarn tenacity by approximately 14%
example to 31% in 9.8tex and the average was 24% for warp single yarn. This can give to the spinning
this reduction in the yarn hairiness is statistically sig- mill the opportunity to increase the speeds and pro-
nificant as shown in Table 3.2. This may be related to ductivity while maintain the yarn tenacity. This advan-
the mechanism of the yarn formation on the compact tage of compact yarn makes most of the mill custom-
spinning. It could be concluded that the compact spin- ers require the compact yarn in weaving.
ning makes a significant improvement in the single
yarn hairiness. This increase in the single yarn tenacity may be due to
the reduction of the spinning triangle by the air suc-
3.3 Yarn Hairiness tion in the compacting zone which leads to more fiber
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 3.4 shows the relationship of the yarn hairiness contribution in the yarn structure hence more fiber in
index versus yarn count. This figure illustrates that the the yarn cross section. That will give less probability
hairiness level of the single compact yarn is lower for fiber slippage.
than the level of the single conventional ring spun
yarn. The reduction in yarn hairiness level reaches for Texttreasure
example to 31% in 9.8tex and the average was 24% Perfection is achieved, not when there is noth-
this reduction in the yarn hairiness is statistically sig- ing more to add, but when there is nothing left
nificant as shown in Table 3.2. to take away.-Antoine de Saint
-Exupéry
* Nowadays cN / tex is changed to Mpa (Mega Pascal)
364 March - April 2016
SPINNING

3.5 Yarn Breaking Elongation The results of the yarn relative yarn quality factors
represented in Table 3.5

Table 3.5: Relative yarn quality factors for ring and


compact yarns

Yarn Count (tex) Y.Q.F R.Y.Q.F


Compact yarn Ring Yarn
14.70 82589.21 75319.92 1.10
11.80 79987.41 67329.41 1.19
10.50 80109.53 68431.93 1.17
9.80 80700.97 62065.99 1.30
Figure 3.6: Yarn breaking elongation different yarn 7.40 62325.56 52565.53 1.19
counts of compact and ring yarn
4. Conclusion
Figure 3.6 shows the difference in yarn breaking elon- From the previous results & discussions and within
gation between the conventional ring spun yarn and the range of our experimental work, the following
compact spun yarn. This figure illustrate that the yarn conclusions can be drawn out:
elongation of the compact spun yarn is better than the
yarn elongation for ring spun yarn. 1. The compact yarn mass variation is statistically
better than the yarn mass variation of the conven-
From this figure it can be shown that the yarn break- tional ring spun yarn by 5%.
ing elongation of single compact yarn for this range of 2. There was no statistical significant difference in
yarn counts increased by about 10% more than yarn the yarn total imperfections between the single
breaking elongation of the single conventional ring compact yarn and conventional ring spun yarn
spun yarn. This may be related to the reduction in the especially but n general the total yarn imperfec-
spinning triangle which makes more fibers integrated tions of single compact yarn are better than the
into the yarn cross section. total yarn imperfections of the equivalent single
conventional ring spun yarn count by about 34%.
Relative yarn quality factor 3. The compact spinning makes a significant im-
provement in the single yarn hairiness reach to
The following formula used to calculate the relative 31% in yarn count 9.8tex and the average was
yarn quality factor: 24%.
4. The yarn tenacity of single compact yam was
(Y.Q.F) Compact higher than the yarn tenacity of the single con-
R.Y.Q.F = --------------------------- ventional ring spun yarn by about 14% while the
(Y.Q.f )ring reduction in the yarn terns per meter was about
4%.
5. the yarn breaking elongation of single compact
While the yarn quality factor is calculated from the yarn increased by about 10% more than yarn
following formula:- breaking elongation of the single conventional ring
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

spun yarn.
(CSP×Yarn Str. cN ) 6. The compact spinning is more effective on single
(
tex spun yarn quality for count range finer than 11.8
Y.Q.F= ----------------------------- tex.
(U%) 7. The relative yarn quality factor R.Y.Q.F of the
compact yarns with texs, Is - 7, is ranging from
CSP :Count strength product 1.10 - 1.19 i.e the relative yarn quality factor
U% : Yarn evenness R.Y.Q.F is higher for, The fine counts, Than the
course counts.

March - April 2016 365


SPINNING

References Textile Topics, 1(2), (2002)


7. Krifa M., and D., Ethridge, (2003), Compact ring
1. BASAL G., The Structure and Properties of Vor- spun yarns: an examination of some productivity
tex and Compact Spun Yarns, PhD Thesis, North issues. Textile Topics (2) 2, (2003).
Caroline State University, Raleigh, USA, (2003). 8. Mahmood N."Jamil N., Iftikhar M., Irshad M.
2. Chang L. and Wang. X., The Hairiness Features and Saleem S. (2004), Comparative Study of
of New Yarns. Textile Institute 81st World Con- Compact versus Ring Spinning for Neps in Cot-
ference, The Textile Institute, Melbourne PP 1- ton Yarn, Int. J. Agri. Biol., 6(1), 153-155 (2004).
10, (2001). 9. Nikolic M., Stjepanovic Z., Lesjak F., Stritof A.,
3. Cankut Taskin. Arif Taner Ozguney, Pelin Gurkan, Compact Spinning for Improved Quality of Ring-
Gonca Ozcelik, and Arzu Ozerdem, Comparison Spun Yarns, FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Eu-
of Woven Fabrics' Properties from Traditional an rope, 11(4) 43 (2003).
Compact Ring-Spun Yarns after Dyeing Processes, 10. Stalder H., Compact spinning- A new generation
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe, 15(1), of ring spun yarns, Melliand Textilberichte,
86- 90, (2007). 76(3),E29 - E31(1995),
4. Cheng K.P.S., Yu C., A Study of Compact Spun 11. Sultan M.A & Ibrahim A. Elhawary, A compari-
Yarns, Textile Res. J., 73(4), 345-349, (2003). son of the properties of Open - End And Ring
5. Comfor Spin ® - Machine K44brochure. Span Yarns produced from two Egyptian cottons,
<,www.rieter.com>,www.com4,com viewd at jan 15th conference of physics Group at University
2014. of Manchester, UK (1974).
6. Krifa M., E. Hequet and D., Ethridge, Compact
❑ ❑ ❑
spinning: new potential for Short Staple cottons.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

366 March - April 2016


DYEING PEER REVIEWED

Development of Solid and Compound Shades on Wool


Fabric using Natural Dyes
M. D. Teli*, Sanket P. Valia, Maruti Kamble & Dhanashri Kolambkar
Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology
Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai.

Abstract
The objective of this research was to study the color values and colorfastness to laundering and
light of wool fabric dyed with madder (M), sappanwood (S) and combination of the both. These
dyes were applied on bleached wool fabric for its dyeing after pre-mordanting with alum and
ferrous sulphate. The various colour changes on wool fabric were measured by computer colour
matching software. The range of colours developed on dyed wool fabrics were evaluated in terms
of (L*a*b*) CIELAB coordinates and the dye absorption on the wool was studied by using K/
S values. The fastness properties of the dyed samples were found to be satisfactory. The fabric
dyed with beautiful shades of natural dyes can be used for ecofriendly apparels.

Keywords
Extraction, Natural dye, Wool, Mordant, Madder, Sappanwood.

1. Introduction two approaches such as dyeing with one natural dye


Recently, the dyestuff industry is increasingly forced and then topping with another natural dye for develop-
to reduce the toxic effluents and stop the production ing a mixed shade and to use suitable combinations of
of dyes or pigments which are potentially hazardous. mixture of compatible natural dyes to develop a com-
Moreover, due to the increased perception of environ- pound shade in one bath [2].
mental and health risks associated with the synthesis,
processing and use of synthetic dyes, interest in natu- 1.1. Madder (M)
ral dyes has increased worldwide, growing a new Rubia is a genus of the madder family Rubiaceae. It
market that values products produced from natural raw has been used since ancient times as a vegetable red
materials with minimum damage to human health and dye for leather, wool, cotton and silk. For dye produc-
the environment. The growing global trend of conser- tion, the roots are harvested in the first year. The outer
vation of environmental resources and better quality brown layer gives the common variety of the dye, the
of life is reflected in the textile industry as a whole, lower yellow layer the refined variety. The dye is fixed
since the differentiation in products and processes is to the cloth with help of a mordant, most commonly
being seen as a means for consumer satisfaction. Thus, alum. The roots contain the acid ruberthyrin. By dry-
the use of the least toxic natural dyes for the dyeing ing, fermenting or a treatment with acids, this is
of textiles can be considered a very suitable alterna- changed to sugar, alizarin (refer Figure 1.1) and pur-
tive, since such compounds are already environmen- purin. Purpurin is normally not colored, but is red
tally compatible, have biodegradability, low toxicity when dissolved in alkaline solutions. Mixed with clay
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

and absence of allergic effects [1]. and treated with alum and ammonia, it gives a brilliant
red colorant (madder lake) [3].
Dyers have to develop a variety of shades on natural
dyed clothes, for which they may require to follow

*All the correspondence should be addressed to,


Prof. (Dr.) M. D. Teli
Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology,
Institute of Chemical Technology Matunga (E),
Mumbai-400019
Email: mdt9pub@gmail.com
Figure1.1: Structure of alizarin
March - April 2016 367
DYEING

1.2. Sappan wood (S) 2. Materials and methods


It is botanically known as Caesalpinia sappan L. It 2.1 Materials
contains braziline (C.I natural red 24) obtained from Bleached Wool fabric purchased from local market
brazilein by oxidation, as the main colour (main hue: was used for dyeing. Madder and Sappanwood dyes
majenta or reddish pink) component. The important were supplied by Adiv Pure Nature, Mumbai. Catechu
part of this plant is the heartwood that contains water- dye was purchased from local market. All the other
soluble dyes such as brazilian, protosappanins, sappan chemicals and mordants were purchased from S.D. Fine
chalcone and haematoxylin. Brazilian on oxidation chemicals Mumbai.
yields a red dye called brazilein - the most valuable
dye used in colouring leather, silk, cotton, wool, fibres 2.2 Methods
of different kinds. Also it is used in batik, calico print- 2.2.1 Preparation of mordant alum
ing, furniture, floors, feathers, medicines and several A 10% stock solution of mordant alum was made by
handicrafts. Sappanwood yields different shades of red dissolving 10gm of mordant powder in 100 ml of water.
with or without mordant [4]. The chemical structure of Alum (Potassium aluminum sulfate) is the mordant
the dyess brazilin in brazilwood and haematoxylin in most frequently used by dyers for protein (animal) and
logwood are very similar, but brazilin has one less cellulosic fabrics. It improves light and wash fastness
hydroxyl group (bottom left) refer Figure 1.2 and 1.3 of all natural dyes and keeps the colours clear.
[5].
2.2.2 Preparation of Iron (Ferrous Sulfate) Mordant
A 3% stock solution of mordant FeSO4 was made by
dissolving 3gm of mordant powder in 100ml of water.
This is an optional mordant and is used as a colour
changer. It has the added benefit of making naturally
dyed colours more light and wash fast. It is more often
used with cellulose fibres like cotton, linen, rayon and
hemp and should be used with care on protein fibres
as it can make them slightly harsh or brittle. Iron shifts
a colour to a deeper, darker grayish shade. If used in
the mordant process that shift is more distinct than
Figure 1.2: Brazilin natural dye when used directly in the dye bath.

2.2.3 Extraction of Madder and Sappanwood dye


A 10% stock solution of each was prepared by boiling
10gm of dye powder in 100ml of water for 60 min-
utes. The extract was filtered and the filtrate was made
to 100ml and was used for dyeing.

2.2.4 Mordanting of Wool fabric


Mordanting of wool fabric was carried out in Rota
dyer keeping the material to liquor ratio of 1:30. The
fabric was introduced into the mordant solution at room
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

temperature and slowly the temperature was raised to


600C for wool fabric and mordanting was continued
Figure 1.3: Haematoxylin dye for about 60 minutes. Mordanting is done by follow-
ing mordants:
The present study reflects the effects of application of
selective natural dyes on bleached and pre-mordanted ◆ Alum 20%
wool fabric for obtaining variety of newer and uncom- ◆ FeSO4 3%+ Tartaric Acid 2%
mon shades. It also reports the assessment of colour
strength and related other colorimetric parameters for 2.2.5 Dyeing Procedure
shades obtained by using these natural dyes. After mordanting the fabric was squeezed and dyed
with 20%, 30% and 40% shade of Madder, and Sap-
368 March - April 2016
DYEING

panwood and also the combination of both the dye to to material ratio of 50:1 in Rota machine. After rinsing
develop compound shades. All dyeing were carried and drying, the change in color of the sample and
out at 600C for 60 minutes. After dyeing the fabrics staining on the undyed samples were evaluated on the
were squeezed, washed with fresh water and dried. respective standard scales (rating 1-5, where 1 - poor,
2 - fair, 3 - good, 4 - very good and 5 - excellent).
3. Testing and Analysis
3.1 Color value by reflectance method 3.3 Evaluation of Light fastness
The dyed samples were evaluated for the depth of Dyed fabric was tested for color fastness to light ac-
color by reflectance method using 10 degree observer. cording to ISO 105/B02 [7]. The light fastness was
The absorbance of the dyed samples was measured on determined using artificial illumination with Xenon
Rayscan Spectrascan 5100+ equipped with reflectance arc light source, Q-Sun Xenon Testing Chamber with
accessories. The K/S values were determined using black standard temperature 650C with relative humid-
following expression; ity of the air in the testing chamber as 40% and day-
light filter, wavelength, 420 nm. The samples were
K (1-R)² compared with the standard scale of blue wool (rat-
--- = -------- ings, 1-8, where 1 - poor, 2 - fair, 3 -moderate, 4 -
S 2R good, 5 - better, 6 - very good, 7 - best and 8 -excel-
lent).
Where, R is the reflectance at complete opacity; K is
the Absorption coefficient & S is the Scattering coef- 4. Results and Discussion
ficient Dyed fabrics were simultaneously evaluated in The woolen fabric was dyed with Madder, Sappan-
terms of CIELAB color space (L*, a* and b*) values wood and combination of both the natural dyes with
using the Rayscan Spectrascan 5100+. In general, the alum and ferrous sulphate as mordants. The results of
higher the K/S value, the higher the depth of the color K/S and fastness values of dyed samples are given in
on the fabric. L* corresponding to the brightness (100- Table 4.1 which indicates that as the shade (%) in-
white, 0- black), a* to the red-green coordinate (posi- creased, the K/S values also increased. This is attrib-
tive- red, negative -green) and b* to the yellow-blue uted to increase in the concentration of dye in the dye
coordinate (positive -yellow, negative -blue). As a bath. The a* and b* values also increased as the con-
whole, a combination of these entire co-ordinates en- centration of the dye increased. The dyed sample
ables one to understand the tonal variations. showed reddish yellow tone, in case of dyed samples
mordanted with alum. In case of FeSO4, the K/S val-
3.2 Evaluation of Wash fastness ues were higher than alum mordanted samples indicat-
Evaluation of color fastness to washing was carried ing darkness in the tone as their L* values were lesser
out using ISO II method [6]. A solution containing 5g/ than L* values of alum mordanted sample. This indi-
l soap solution was used as the washing liquor. The cates that FeSO4 treated samples gave duller shades as
samples were treated for 45 min at 500C using liquor compared to the alum treated samples.
Table 4.1: K/S report of Madder dyed wool with Alum (20%) and FeSO4 (3%) as mordant

Sr. No. Shade (%) Mordant K/S L* a* b* Wash Fastness Light Fastness
Rating Rating
1 20% Alum 20% 2.71 60.00 26.47 24.37 4 6
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

FeSO4 3%+
Tartaric Acid 2% 3.82 58.75 19.8 22.98 3-4 4
2 30% Alum 20% 3.69 60.80 27.44 25.87 4 6
FeSO4 3%+
Tartaric Acid 2% 5.06 58.93 20.69 23.98 4 3-4
3 40% Alum 20% 4.71 61.01 28.31 26.95 5 6
FeSO4 3%+
Tartaric Acid 2% 6.24 59.39 21.92 25.23 3-4 3

March - April 2016 369


DYEING

The colour fastness to washing of dyed samples in case of FeSO4 mordant it shows significant fading.
mordanted with alum showed better fastness than FeSO4 The resistance of dye/pigment to chemical or photo-
treated sample. It is very clear from the results given chemical attack is an inherent property of the dye
in (Table 4.1) that light fastness of alum mordanted chromophore but at the same time the Auxochrome
sample is good, but in case of FeSO4 mordant it is not may also alter the fastness either way. The substitution
so good because the fastness of a mordant dye de- pattern of dyes seems to play an important role in
pends on the mordant and mordanting method. Since determining the light fastness and so also stability of
different metal dye complexes are formed which may dye-mordant complex to light radiations.
differ in their stability to light and also because the
metal may have a positive or negative catalytic effect Table 4.3 summarizes the K/S values and fastness prop-
on the photochemical degradation of the dye impair- erties of woolen samples dyed with Madder and Sap-
ing the light fastness properties. panwood with their relatively different combinations
using alum and ferrous sulphate as mordants. From
Results from Table 4.2 indicate that as the percentage Table 3 it can be seen that, as the concentration of
shade increased, the K/S values of Sappanwood dyed sappanwood was increased at the cost of madder, the
fabric also increased. This is attributed to increase in K/S values decreased from pure madder to pure sap-
the concentration of dye in the dye bath. The a* and panwood in case of both the mordants. The L* values
b* values also increased as the concentration of the of FeSO4 sample were lesser than alum thus indicating
dye in the dye bath increased. For alum mordanted darker shades in case of FeSO4 mordanted and dyed

Table 4.2: K/S report of Sappanwood dyed wool with Alum (20%) and FeSO4 (3%) as mordant

Sr. No. Shade (%) Mordant K/S L* a* b* Wash Fastness Light Fastness
Rating Rating
1 20% Alum 20% 1.38 68.40 18.70 16.87 5 5
FeSO4 3%+
Tartaric Acid 2% 2.29 62.40 5.27 10.98 4 3
2 30% Alum 20% 1.91 65.29 23.53 16.39 5 5
FeSO4 3%+
Tartaric Acid 2% 3.14 61.06 6.38 10.85 4 3
3 40% Alum 20% 2.26 64.63 24.34 16.05 5 5
FeSO4 3%+
Tartaric Acid 2% 4.20 59.96 7.32 10.83 4 3

sample a* value were higher than those of b* indicat- sample. The a* values are slightly higher than b* values
ing reddish yellow tone. In case of FeSO4 as far as the for alum mordanted sample for 30% shade indicating
K/S values were concerned, those of FeSO4 were higher reddish yellow tone on the fabric. Similarly for FeSO4
than those for alum indicating the darkness in the shade mordanted sample the b* values are slightly higher
as their L* values were less than L* values for alum. than a* indicating yellowish red tone on the fabric.
The dyed samples showed very good wash and light
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The colour fastness to washing is good in case of both fastness properties for all the samples mordanted with
the mordants. It is very clear from the results that the alum and incase of FeSO4 the fastness properties were
light fastness of alum mordanted sample is good, but good.

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370 March - April 2016
DYEING

Table 4.3 K/S report of Compound Shade of Madder and Sappanwood (30%) dyed wool fabric
with Alum (20%) and FeSO4 (3%) as mordant

Sr. Dye Ratio Mordant K/S L* a* b* Wash Fastness Light Fastness


No. M S Rating Rating
(Colour Change) (Colour Change)
1 100 0 Alum 20% 3.59 57.11 29.08 27.18 5 6
FeSO4 3%+
Tartaric Acid 2% 5.25 50.57 22.12 26.05 4 5
2 70 30 Alum 20% 3.04 56.09 29.00 25.57 5 6
FeSO4 3%+
Tartaric Acid 2% 3.84 48.57 17.52 22.07 4 5
3 50 50 Alum 20% 2.48 55.86 28.92 24.54 4-5 6
FeSO4 3%+
Tartaric Acid 2% 4.91 53.29 14.30 21.74 4 5
4 30 70 Alum 20% 2.01 55.28 25.43 22.42 4-5 6
FeSO4 3%+
Tartaric Acid 2% 2.89 46.85 11.83 18.69 4 5
5 0 100 Alum 20% 1.51 54.98 22.89 21.96 4-5 5
FeSO4 3%+
Tartaric Acid 2% 2.14 44.37 6.17 14.44 4 5

[Madder-M, Sappanwood-S]

5. Conclusion 2. Samantaa, A. K., & Agarwal, P., Application of


A global awareness is already in place favoring the natural dyes on textiles, Indian Journal of Fibre
use of natural resources for protecting the environ- & Textile Research, 34, 384-399, (2009).
ment and earth from pollution and ecological imbal-
3. Taylor, G. W., Natural dyes in textile applications,
ances. Hence the present scenario aims towards the
utilization of natural dyes. The Natural dyeing was Review of Progress in Coloration and Related
carried out on wool fabric with Madder, Sappanwood Topics, 16(1), 53-61, (1986).
and its combinations with mordants such as alum and 4. M.D. Teli, Sanket Valia and Yash Agarwal, Influ-
FeSO4 at different concentrations. The samples were ence of Substitution of Madder by Sappanwood
dyed after pre-mordanting with base as a mordant and in Colouration of Natural Fibres, Journal of Tex-
then dyed with natural dyes. These different samples tile Association, 75 (2) 103-107, (2014).
were tested having different combinations of dyes.
5. M.D. Teli and Sanket P. Valia, Colouration of
Different colours were thus obtained from the combi-
nations of mordant and natural dyes on wool fabric wool fibres with Natural Dyes, Journal of Textile
Association, 75 (3) 73-77, (2015).
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

and the depth of the shades obtained are also good.


The fastness properties of the dyed samples obtained 6. Trotman, E. R., Dyeing and chemical technology
were found to be satisfactory. of textile fibres. Wiley. (1984).
7. ISO Technical manual, Geneva, Switzerland, 2006.
References
❑ ❑ ❑
1. Silva, A. B., Silva, M. G., Arroyo, P. A., & Barros,
M. A. S. D., Dyeing mechanism of wool and silk
with extract of Allium cepa. Chem. Eng. Trans,
32, 715-720 (2013).

March - April 2016 371


PEER REVIEWED TECHNICAL TEXTILES

Scrutiny of Jute Fiber Poly-Lactic Acid (PLA) Resin


Reinforced Polymeric Composite
M. Ramachandran*, Sahas Bansal, & Pramod Raichurkar
MPSTME, SVKM'S NMIMS University
Abstract
Green composites shaped by combination of biodegradable polymers and natural fibers have
fascinated massive interest in recent years due to their environmentally beneficial properties and
also to reduce our dependency on the nonrenewable resources. The main purpose of this paper
is to study non-woven jute fiber sheet reinforced in Poly-Lactic Acid (PLA) resin having 90°
orientation. Various tests like Impact test (IZOD test and CHARPY test), Differential Scanning
Calorimeter (DSC) test, Fourier Transform Infra-Red (FTIR) test and Optical Imaging were
performed on jute poly-lactic acid resin composite. The tests showed significant results at par
with synthetic composites like polyester and epoxy etc. In upcoming years, we can carry out tests
with various orientations and compositions of Jute PLA resin composites.

Keywords
Jute fibers, PLA, Composites, Impact test, DSC test, FTIR test, Optical Imaging.

1. Introduction under the category of Bast fibers [2] [3]. This fiber is
Having an eco-friendly environment and protecting it mostly off white to brown colored, 1-4 meter long,
is one of the most important concerns of every human cheap, soft, have high cash value, versatile nature and
being. Nowadays, high demand for the use of compos- luster. Ignition temperature of jute is about 1930C. The
ite materials is escalating today because of high jute is having high specific heat value of 1360 J/kg/K,
strength, high stiffness, low density and cost and light which results good thermal insulation of jute [4]. The
weight. The use of synthetic fiber reinforced poly- fineness of the jute filaments/fibers in terms linear
meric composite materials such as carbon fiber rein- density is 25 denier. The diameter of which will be
forced plastics (CFRP) and glass fiber reinforced plas- around 0.06 mm [5]. On account of smaller length and
tics (GFRP) is helpful to meet these demands but higher thickness the length/breadth ratio is low, it is
dumping difficulties that arises have surfaced as an on the average 110 only for the ultimate cell and hence
environmental problem. Concerning this matter, natu- does not fulfill the requirement of spinning [6]. In
ral fibers need to be considered. Therefore, the use of case of resin, Poly-lactic Acid (PLA) is a biodegrad-
natural fiber reinforced polymeric composite has been able thermoplastic polymer derived from corn starch,
springing up in terms of research and development sugarcane, tapioca roots which are all renewable re-
[1].There is a wide variety of natural fibers that are sources [7]. It has an excellent biodegradability in
available which can be used as a replacement for the nature such as in lake, sea, soil and compost. PLA has
existing synthetic materials or metals without compro- a glass transition temperature of around 61.50C, a
mising its potency and toughness Among all the natu- melting point 1750C, crystallinity around 40% and a
ral fibers, jute fiber appears to be a proficient fiber tensile modulus 10 GPa [8]. It is soluble in hot ben-
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

and constitutes huge area of exploration due to its zene, dioxins, chlorinated solvents and tetra-hydro
good mechanical properties compared with other natu- furan. PLA has unique properties like good appear-
ral fibers such as bamboo, hemp, banana, sisal, wool, ance, high mechanical strength, and low toxicity [9].
etc. Jute is a long vegetable natural fiber which falls Because of its deformation and its low melting tem-
perature, it is better to use it for heat-sealing and
*All the correspondence should be addressed to, thermoforming applications [10]. For tensile modulus
M. Ramchandran and flexural modulus, PLA has the highest value in
Asst. Prof. M P S TME, comparison to PS, PP, and HDPE [11]. In the present
MPTP Campus, Shirpur, work jute/ PLA biodegradable composites were pre-
Dhule, Maharashta
E-mail : sweetestchandran@gmail.com pared and various properties were investigated.

372 March - April 2016


TECHNICAL TEXTILES

2. Specimen Preparation age value was 9.2 Joules and 37.6 Joules respectively.
Jute fiber was cleaned and made into non-woven sheet.
It was reinforced in PLA resin and prepared in a mold 4. Results and discussion
having dimensions 100x100x10 (in mm) [12]. The jute 4.1 Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC)
PLA resin composite was fabricated by compression Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) is a power-
molding process. Compression molding is closed mold ful, versatile and thermo analytical technique in which
procedures in which the preheated molding material is the difference in the amount of heat necessary to raise
placed in an open and heated cavity.Pressure is ap- the temperature of a sample and reference is calcu-
plied to allow the material maintain contact with all lated as a function of temperature [18]. In case of
the mold areas with a plug member until the molding PLA+JUTE, the glass transition temperature of JUTE
material has cured [13]. The jute fibers and PLA resin is 61.040C and for PLA is 153.680C. Also, the value of
were placed in the mold and it is preheated at 1650C glass transition temperature for Jute PLA resin com-
for 3 minutes under no pressure and after that 1.5 Mpa posite is 146.150C (Figure 4.1). Due to the jute addi-
pressure was applied for three minutes at the same tion, the glass transition temperature of the composite
temperature. Furthur the mold was cooled by circulat- is reduced approximately 70. This reduction will not
ing cold water. For the sample, the combination is affect the composite when it is utilized for industrial
taken in the ratio 80:20 (PLA resin: Jute fiber) with 90 roofing sheet.
degree orientation and kept for a duration of 10-12
hours [14].

3. Impact Test
Two standardized tests, the CHARPY and IZOD are
designed and used extensively to measure the impact
energy. The load is applied as an impact blow from a
heavy pendulum hammer released from a position at a
fixed height. The test material or specimen is posi-
tioned at the base. When the pendulum is released, it
strikes the test piece and fractures it at the notch. The
pendulum continues its swing raising lower that the Figure 4.1: Jute-PLA composite DSC test result graph
actual height. The energy absorbed at fracture can be
easily obtained by simple calculations [15]. The tech- 4.2 Fourier Transform Infra- Red Test
nique is applicable to short as well as long fiber com- FTIR test is used to obtain an infrared spectrum of
posites. Izod Impact test is a single point technique absorption or emission of liquid, solid or gas. The
that determines a material resistance to impact from a technique is quite simple. It can categorize unidenti-
pendulum swinging. It can be used as an easy and fied materials; determine the quality of the sample and
quick quality control check to determine if the speci- the quantity of component in a mixture, etc [18].
men meets impact properties and toughness.For ASTM,
the standard specimen is 64×12.7×3.2 mm. The most
common specimen thickness is 3.2 mm but the pre-
ferred thickness is 6.44 mm because it is not as likely
to bend. The depth beneath the notch of the specimen
is 10.2 mm. The Charpy V-notch test is a standardized
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

technique which determines the amount of energy


absorbed by a test material during break [16]. Accord-
ing to ASTM A370, the standard specimen dimension
for Charpy impact testing is 10×10×55mm. Sub size
specimen sizes are: 10×7.5×55 mm, 10×6.7×55,
10×5×55 mm, 10×3.3×55 mm and 10×2.5×55 mm [17].
It is widely applied in industry as the results can be
obtained cheaply and quickly. Five specimens were
taken for each IZOD and CHARPY test and the aver-

March - April 2016 373


TECHNICAL TEXTILES

Figure 4.2: (a) Poly Lactic Acid FTIR test result


graph ; (b) Jute fiber FTIR test result graph; (c)
Jute-PLA resin composite FTIR test result graph

From Poly Lactic acid FTIR test (Figure 4.2(a)), the


graph shows 3 Alcohol/Phenol OH stretch, 4 Alkyl
CH stretch, 1 Amide CO stretch, and 3 Aromatic CH
bending functional groups. From jute fiber FTIR test Figure 4.3: Optical Image of Jute PLA
(Figure 2(b)), the graph shows 2 Alcohol/Phenol OH resin composite (40X)
stretch, 6 Amide CO stretch, 2 Carboxylic acid CO 5. Conclusion
stretch and 1 Aromatic CH bending functional groups. Biodegradable composites made from Jute fibers and
From jute PLA resin composite FTIR test (Figure PLA (Poly-Lactic Acid) resin has been developed.
4.2(c)), the graph shows the same functional groups as According to Impact test, the average value is 9.2 Joules
that of jute fiber and Poly Lactic acid FTIR test which and 37.6 Joules for Izod test and Charpy test respec-
signifies there is no chemical reactions between the tively. By Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC),
fiber and the resin. the glass transition temperature of jute is 61.040C and
for PLA is 153.680C. Also, the value of glass transi-
4.3 Optical Imaging tion temperature for Jute PLA resin composite is
Optical Imaging is an imaging technique which de- 146.150C. According to FTIR results, the graph of jute
scribes the behavior of ultraviolet, visible and infrared PLA resin composite shows the same functional groups
light used in imaging. This technique is followed by as that of jute fiber and Poly Lactic acid FTIR test
scientists for research work and uses special proper- which signifies there is no chemical reactions between
ties of photons to obtain detailed images of structures the fiber and the resin. From Optical Imaging, the first
including cells, molecules, etc. In the figure 3, we can block shows proper composition of jute and poly-lac-
easily see that the jute fibers are appropriately mixed tic acid. The middle block shows the jute fibers which
with the composite material [19]. The first block (from get mixed with the polymer when heated above the
the left) shows proper composition of jute and poly- beginning temperature of the jute and the third final
lactic acid. The middle block shows the jute fibers block shows both proper and improper mixture of the
which get mixed with the polymer when heated. The material with the jute fiber. In conclusion, the results
third final block shows both proper and improper show that Jute-PLA resin biodegradable composites
mixture of the material with the jute fiber. The image have the capability of replacing non-biodegradable
also shows that some of the polymer granules are not synthetic fiber composites. As per the properties ob-
correctly mixed therefore they are seen as blur. tained by PLA Composites, We can use as a roofing
sheet for industrial and domestic applications.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Texttreasure
References
1) Rakshit Agarwal M. Ramachandran, Stanly Jones
First they ignore you, Retnam, ARPN Journal of Engineering and Ap-
then they laugh at you, plied Sciences, 2015; 10(5): 2217-2220.
then they fight you, 2) Malvika Sharma M. Ramachandran, International
then you win. Journal of Applied Engineering Research. 2015;
10(11):10324-10327.
- Mahatma Gandhi 3) Vineeth Nair, Pratul Khosla, Ramachandran M,
Research Journal of Pharmaceutical, Biological
374 March - April 2016
TECHNICAL TEXTILES

and Chemical Sciences,7(1):2001-2004 · 2016 12) Saowaroj Chuayjuljit, Chutima


4) M Angier Benin, B. Stanly Jones Retnam, M. Wongwaiwattanakul, Phasawat Chaiwutthinan,
Ramachandran. International Journal of Applied Pattarapan Prasassarakich, Physical and Morpho-
Engineering Research. 10(11) (2015) pp. 10109- logical Properties, POLYMER COMPOSITES-
10113. 2016,
5) P. Pradeep, J. Edwin Raja Dhas, M. 13) M.K. Mohamad Haa?z, Azman Hassan ,H.P.S.
Ramachandran. International Journal of Applied Abdul Khalil , Imran Khan , I.M. Inuwa , Md.
Engineering Research. 10(11) (2015) pp. 10392- Saiful Islam , Md. Sohrab Hossain , M.I. Syakir
10396. , M.R. Nurul Fazita, Polymer Testing 48 (2015)
6) M. Ramachandran, Sahas Bansal, Vishal Fegade, 133-139.
Pramod Raichurkar, International Journal on Tex- 14) Muhammad A.S. Anwer a, Hani E. Naguib, Alain
tile Engineering and Processes, 1(4), 2015, pp. Celzard , Vanessa Fierro, Composites Part B 82
18-21. (2015) 92-99.
7) Alex. S, Stanly Johns Retnam, M. Ramachandran, 15) Seong Ok Han, Mehdi Karevan,, Md A. Bhuiyan,
International Journal of Applied Engineering Jung Ho Park, Kyriaki Kalaitzidou, J Mater Sci
Research.10 (11) (2015) pp. 10565-10569. (2012) 47:3535-3543.
8) Anshu Singh and Sanjay Palsule, Composite In- 16) Balakrishnan Asaithambi, Gowri Shankar
terfaces, 2013; 20(8):553-573. Ganesan, Srinivasan Ananda Kumar, POLYMER
9) Ning Cai, Qin Dai, Zelong Wang, Xiao gang Luo, COMPOSITES-2015.
Yanan Xue, and Faquan Yu, Fibers and Polymers 17) K. Piekarskaa, P. Sowinskia, E. Piorkowskaa,
2014, Vol.15, No.12, 2544-2552. Md.M.-Ul. Haqueb, M. Pracella, Composites: Part
10) M.R.Nurul Fazita, Krishnan Jayaraman Debes, A 82 (2016) 34-41.
Bhattacharyya, Md. Sohrab Hossain, M.K. 18) Shaoping Qian, Kuichuan Sheng, Wenchao Yao,
Mohamad Haaz and Abdul Khali, Biodegradabil- Hui Yu, J. APPL. POLYM. SCI. 2016, DOI:
ity and Recyclability, Polymers 2015, 7, 1476- 10.1002/APP.43425
1496. 19) Jasim Ahmed, Yasir Ali Arfat, Edgar Castro-
11) Jinian Yang, Shibin Nie, Jinbo Zhu, J. APPL. Aguirre, Rafael Auras, Journal of Thermal
POLYM. SCI. 2016, DOI: 10.1002/APP.43340. Analysis and Calorimetry March 2016.
❑ ❑ ❑

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(an ISO 9001:2008 certified)
Theme:
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Growth & Great Opportunities
16th & 17th September, 2016
(Friday & Saturday)
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The Textile Association (India)
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Mumbai - 400 028 INDIA
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March - April 2016 375


PEER REVIEWED OTHERS

Kasargod Sarees : The Threads of Tradition


CR Meena1*, Minakshi Sanjay2, Nidhi Dhaneesh & Nikitha S2
1
National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kannur
2
National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kannur

Abstract
Over the centuries, handlooms have come to be associated with excellence in India's artistry in
textiles. Right from the ancient times, the high quality of Indian handloom products like muslin
of Chanderi, silk brocades of Varanasi, the Tie and dye products of Rajasthan and Orissa, the
Chintz of Machalipatnam, the Himroos of Hyderabad, the Khes of Punjab, the prints of Farukhabad,
the Phanek and Tongam and bottle designs of Assam and Manipur, the Maheshwari sarees of
Madhya Pradesh and the Patola sarees of Baroda have been famous all over. The art and craft
traditions have been kept alive despite sweeping changes due to continuous efforts of generations
of artists and craftsmen who weaved their dreams and visions into exquisite handloom products.
Coming to the south, Kerala's handloom products have caught the imagination of the world.
Renowned for its impeccable quality, elegant designs and characteristic weave, every district of
Kerala has its own signature handloom product. One among them is the Kasargod saree which
is very famous in Kerala. The traditional designs transformed into an elegant look which interlace
with supreme quality to make this saree stand out in the market. The glorious days of the hand-
woven Kasargod saree may be over but it has withstood the challenges of time and is still popular
among the people.
This documentation on Kasargod sarees is a small effort from our part to understand and capture
the beauty of such a rich tradition.

Keywords
Handloom, Sarees, Tradition, Weavers, Design, Home furnishing etc

1. Introduction to cover the upper part of the body along with the
'Sari' is derived from the Sanskrit word 'sati' which saree.
means a strip of cloth. This sound first evolved into
'sadi' and then into 'sari'. In a saree the midriff is left bare. This is because
according to Hindus, the navel is considered the source
There are some indications which suggest that the saree of life and creativity. Many old sculptures show a
originated in the Indus valley civilization around 2800 variety of different sari draping styles worn by men
to 1800 BC. Dhoti, the Indian man's traditional attire, and women. The origin of the blouse and the petticoat
is believed to be the forerunner of saree. Historians is still doubtful. As it was a tradition in India to use
say that until the 14th century, both men and women only one unstitched cloth to cover the body, it is be-
were wearing dhoti. Dhotis are still being worn in lieved that ancient women did not wear blouses and
rural India. left the upper part of their bodies uncovered. Some
other say that breast bands were worn to cover the
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

A saree can be draped in numerous styles. Normal upper body. It is still unknown how the blouse and
sarees run 6 yards but in some states of southern India, petticoat originated, although it is largely believed that
even nine-yard long sarees are worn. A blouse is worn it was only after the arrival of the British that Indian
women started wearing blouse and petticoat.

*All the correspondence should be addressed to: Kerala has 14 districts from Thiruvananthapuram to
Dr. Chet Ram Meena,
Assistant Professor, Department of Textile Design,
Kasargod and Kerala is known as Gods own Country.
National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kharghar, The handloom industry is spread all over the state but
Navi Mumbai- 410210 it is concentrated in certain places. Every district of
Email: chetram.meena@nift.ac.in Kerala has its own signature handloom product. Kerala
376 March - April 2016
OTHERS

handloom industry carries a vital role in the state's operative Production & Sale Society Ltd. No. L. 381
economy. Balaramapuram saree, furnishing fabrics from was established in the year 1938.
Malabar, Chendamangalam saree, Koothampalli saree
are some of the exclusive handloom products from The major items manufactured in the handloom sector
Kerala. in the Kasaagod cluster range from products made out
of fine cotton yarn to coarser yarn. Kasargod sarees
Southern Kerala is famous for its superfine products, (both Kasargod Cotton sarees and Kasargod Art-silk
like sarees, dhothies and 'Set mundu' etc. central Kerala sarees) are the most famous hand-woven item pro-
is also engaged with such products .But while going to duced here. The traditional Kasargod sarees are wo-
northern side called Malabar the main production ven with coloured cotton yarn (dyed yarn) of finer
changes to coarser varieties like furnishing items, bed counts or with coloured art-silk yarn. These sarees are
spreads, towels etc. The common products in Kerala produced either with check design in the body with
are 'Thorthu' (Bathing towel) and Lungies. Almost 2 solid border or plain saree with butta designs and other
lakh weavers are earning their livelihood from the products like bed sheets, towels and dhothies etc.
handloom industry of which 75% of them are in the
co-operative line. 2. Weavers Community of Kasargod Sarees
The weavers of Kasargod saree belongs to the Shaliya
The 'Kerala kasavu sarees' are praised by the women community. Weaving was a family tradition and was
all over India for their fineness of count, natural colours, practiced in houses.
texture and gold borders. Kerala is also known for its
unbleached cotton handloom crepe popularly known Weaving was a male predominant work. Women helped
as 'kora' cloth that has entered the foreign market and in dyeing, winding and other processes. At present
occupied a proud place in the garment industry. most of the weavers are above the age of 50 years and
have 30 years of experience in this field. Today we
1.1 Origin and history of Kasargod sarees can see active participation of women in weaving. In
This district lies at the northern tip of Kerala and is total there are 45 workers in the society of which 25
bound by the Western Ghats in the east and Arabian are male and 20 are female.
Sea in the west. KASARGOD is the combination of
two Sanskrit words kaasaara and kroda.Many Arab Most weavers have only primary education. This is
travelers, who came to Kerala between 9th and 14th because they were engaged in weaving from child-
centuries A.D., visited Kasargod as it was then an hood itself. However, the young generation of weaver's
important trade centre. community is highly educated.

Art forms of Kasargod include the famous Yakshgana, Workers are paid based on piece rate system i.e.; based
Kumbala (buffalo race), Cockfight, Poorakkali, Kolkali, on the length of fabric woven. Weekly payment sys-
Duff Mutt, Oppana. Kasargod is a land of different tem is practiced. The weavers earn around Rs 1000
languages like Tulu, Kannada, Malayalam, Konkani per week and also they get bonus two times a year for
and Tamil. festivals like Onam and Vishu. Monthly pension of Rs
500 is given to retired weavers.
The origin of the handloom weaving of Kasargod sarees
and other fabrics in this district traces back to 18th
century AD. The Shaliya weaving community migrated
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

from East Karavali cost of the present Karnataka State.


The handloom weaving, like the other clusters of
Kerala, was a home based cottage industry in Kasargod
district. The co-operative movement initiated in the
erstwhile Madras State in the year 1912 as part of the
National Movement for the freedom of the country.
This movement has organised the handloom weavers
into the co-operative fold. As a result, several handloom
co-operative societies were formed. One such handloom
co- operative societies, The Kasargod Weavers' Co- Figure 2.1: A weaver engaged in weaving
March - April 2016 377
OTHERS

No common diseases are reported among the weavers. Table 3.1: Technical specifications of Kasargod sarees
Weaving is a good physical exercise. And also it re-
quires the full concentration, hand and feet coordina- Technical parameter Details
tion. Normally, in cotton weaving, respiratory prob- Length of saree 5.5 metre
lems arise due to cotton fluff inhalation. In Kasargod Width of saree 48 inch
sarees, due to the process of loom sizing and wetting
Border width 2-4 inch
of pirns before usage completely eliminates this prob-
lem. The society provides health insurance for the Pallu width 60cm
weaver's family and they get mediclaim. Count 40s, 60s, 80s, 100s
Reed count 56, 64, 72,80, 96
3. The features of Kasargod saree Material Cotton, rayon(120 D)
The Kasargod saree is characterized by plain or check
Dye Vat dye
design in the body and dobby design in the border.
The pallu and border colour is always in contrast with Weave Plain for body, dobby for bor-
der, jacquard for buttis
the saree body colours. Pale colours are usually used
in the body of the saree. Loom Malabar loom, jacquard attach-
ment - capacity - 240 hooks
The saree is made in 100% cotton as well as in rayon. Price range Rs 800 - 1800
The cotton sarees are made in various counts like 60s,
80s, 100s etc. The saree body is always in plain weave. 3.2. Saree Design Development
Extra warp patterning is done in the border using dobby The specialty of Kasargod sarees is the combination
mechanism. Jacquard mechanism is used to create small of checks and stripe design in the body of saree with
butti designs in the pallu and body of saree. extra warp patterning in the border. A variety of checks
The main feature of this saree is its durability. It lasts and stripe designs are created in the saree like double
upto 20 years showing excellent colourfastness. line checks, narrow to broad stripes etc. Sometimes
Kasargod saree has also been recognized with a Geo- the body is also made in solid colours.
graphic Indication mark in 2010 making it a unique
product. The borders always have extra warp figuring. The
motifs used are mainly floral and temple motifs which
are inspired from the nature and cultures of Kasargod.
Most of the motifs used today are traditional. But new
floral motifs are used for buttis which are developed
with the help of a design development company in
Bangalore. Once the design is obtained it is used to
make jacquard punch cards.The punch cards are made
manually. Every line of the design becomes one
punched card. These are then arranged in sequence
Figure3.1:Kasargod sarees and attached to loom.

The pallu of the saree is dyed in contrast colour after


the warping process. The pallu is usually in solid
colours with thin stripes of gold threads along the
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Texttreasure width. The palu ends are knotted after cutting the saree
from the loom manually.

If faith in ourselves had been more and The colours used in Kasargod sarees are pale colours
extensively thought and practiced. I am and it is complimented with a contrast border. Vat
sure a very large portion of the evils and dyes are used for colouring the yarn. The number of
miseries we have would have vanished. colours used in the saree varies from 3 to 6.
- Swami Vivekananda.
3.3. Design limitations
The main limitation with design of Kasargod saree is
378 March - April 2016
OTHERS

that most of the weavers are elderly and they are not water for at least 24 hours in a large concrete tank.
able to learn and quickly adapt to design changes in- This process removes all the impurities except the
troduced. Hence, most of design in the saree has re- natural coloring matter. Then the yarn is washed in
mained the same throughout the history of Kasargod normal water and squeezed with the help of a hydro-
saree. Also, the colours of the saree are mainly plain extractor.
and hence its popularity among the youth who look
for bright colours is very low. 4.3 Bleaching
Bleaching is carried out to remove coloring matter
4. Production Process of Kasargod Sarees from the yarn. This is done in the case of yarns to be
dyed in light colours. Bleaching powder is used for
bleaching process.To remove the traces of the bleach-
ing powder, the yarn is treated with diluted sulphuric
acid and washed with water.

Figure 4.1: Bleached Yarn

4.4 Dyeing Process


Vat dye is commonly using for dyeing. Caustic soda
and Sodiumhydrosulphate are added at the required
quantity to warm water along with the vat dyes and
the dye bath is prepared. The yarn is put in the dye
bath for about 30 to 45 minutes at 60 degree Celsius.
After dyeing the yarn is squeezed through hydro- ex-
Figure 3.2: Production process
tractor and then washed in ordinary water.Dyed yarn
is then dried in shade for two days for proper oxida-
4.1 Raw materials
tion. This provide more strength and original colour to
The basic raw material of the cluster is cotton yarn,
the dyed yarn.
procured in the form of hank. The main supplier of
cotton yarn is Varadaraja mills. Art silk (Viscose rayon)
yarns are brought from Karnataka.The cotton combed
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

yarns procured are of 80'S, 60'S count.Art Silk yarn of


120 Denier is also used in weft. The raw materials are
restocked every 3 months.

4.2 Washing & Scouring


Grey yarn immersed in a solution of normal water
with soap and drops of coconut oil for about 45
minutes.This process cleans the yarn, increases the dye
absorbability of the yarn.The grey yarn is boiled or
scoured in a solution of caustic soda and soda ash in Figure 4.2: Dyeing Tanks
March - April 2016 379
OTHERS

4.5 Winding enough to produce 30 to 33 sarees unlike other saree


4.5.1 Bobbin winding weaving clusters.
Process of transferring yarn from one type of package
to another.The dyed yarn for warp in the hank form
(from bundles) is converted into bobbins -bobbin wind-
ing.

4.5.2 Pirn winding


The yarn which is used in the weft is wound into a
pirn with the help of a small, hand-driven charkha and
is called pirn winding. The yarn in the form of pirn is
used in the weft while weaving. The wound pirns are
dipped in mild starch solutionto improve its strength
and dimensional stability.

Figure 4.4: Manual Warping Process

4.7 Beaming and Preparation of loom


In this process, there is a transfer of warp sheet to a
weavers beam to mount on loom followed by looming,
which prepares the loom beam for weaving. Prepara-
tion of loom is classified into drafting and
denting.Drafting is the process of passing the warp
yarn through the healds of the loom as per the
Figure 4.3: Pirns immersed in mild starch solution design.Helps to keep the warp yarn in parallel form
over the width of the loom and in locating a broken
4.6 Warping yarn during the process of weaving. In denting, the
Process of making desired length and width of warp warp yarn ends are passed through the reeds and the
sheet by combining many small packages of bobbins/ healds. The warp threads are then joined with the old
spools according to the desired patterns.The process warp threads with a local method of twisting by hands.
of warping used in Kasargod is known as sectional
warping. Sectional warping process is carried on a 4.8 Sizing
wooden frame from a wooden peg creel. Bobbin creel Process where starch is coated on the warp yarns to
is used to hold the required number of bobbins in such impart strength and enhance abrasion resistance to
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

a way that the yarns from them can be drawn sepa- withstand the stress and strains exerted during the
rately without touching each other. The bobbins are weaving process is called as sizing. Here the method
put on the creel according to the pattern of the warp of 'loom sizing' is practiced. Natural materials such as
and the required number of yarn is then drawn through tapioca powder or maida form the important ingredi-
a comb to the wooden drum. ent for sizing, which is boiled and diluted as per the
climatic conditions and requirement.On-loom sizing
After the completion of warping, markings are made imparts additional stiffness and shining finishes to the
for desired length of saree using charcoal. The yarn in product.
the form of warp is released from the wooden drum in
the form of chain or loop. One of the uniqueness of
Kasargod saree weaving is the lengthy warp which is
380 March - April 2016
OTHERS

4.10 Quality Checking & Packing


The weaving master manually inspects the product.
During the process of production like winding &
warping, creation of motifs, weaving etc.The weaving
master inspects the different predetermined parameters
and the quality before permitting final/finishing stage
of production.Warp ends in the pallu region are tied.
The sarees are folded and pressed manually.Every saree
is marked with a Glycemic Index(GI) label and
Hanveev tag.

5. Market and Customers


Figure 4.5: Sizing of warp yarns The Society manufactures around 5000 sarees every
4.8.1 Sizing brush year. The products are sold mainly through the retail
This brush has a wooden base of about 30cm in length showrooms owned by the society.One showroom is
and 10cm in width.Bristles are made up of natural situated within the society compound and the other
fibre obtained from palm tree. These brushes are made one in the heart of Kasargod town. The sales are also
in Udupi, Karnataka and involve a complex manufac- conducted through Hantex and Hanveev. During fes-
turing process. The efforts to replace these brushes tive seasons (Vishu,Onam,Christmas), Government
with plastic brushes have been unsuccessful. introduces 20% rebate on products.The sales are at its
peak during this time.TheKasargod sarees have not yet
4.9 Weaving explored the export market. It is sold mainly within
The looms used for weaving Kasargod sarees are frame Kerala.
looms known as Malabar looms. The Malabar looms
are very strong looms with fly shuttles.These looms The main customers of Kasargod sarees are working
can weave heavy furnishing material, bed sheet of women and middle aged women. This saree is used as
greater warp, towels, dress material, striped check uniform for teachers in many schools in and around
material etc and is suitable for sarees with plain solid Kasargod. The cotton sarees are most preferred by the
border, with extra warp and cross border designs. The customers. What makes Kasargod saree popular among
looms are equipped additionally with lattice dobby and the working class is its simple but elegant look, light-
jacquard. The lattice dobby is used to produce extra weight and its comfort as a daily wear saree. The
warp design on the border of the saree. The Jacquard durability and easy care of the saree also adds to its
is used to weave designs with extra warp or extra weft popularity.
or both.The Jacquard lifts the required threads in the
warp and the Butta Design is laced in the body of the 6. Government Initiatives and Policies
saree with extra weft by hand. Catch-Cord Technique The Kerala government has taken various steps to
(locally known as Kotench) is used for creating solid promote the handloom sector. A revitalization scheme
border for the saree. was introduced for the maintenance and repair of the
society. The pending loans (13 lakh) of the society
was written off by the government as a part of another
scheme. Government introduces rebate on handloom
products to promote its sales during festive season.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Production incentives are given on reaching a certain


production goal.The weavers are given various incen-
tives which include life insurance, mediclaim, pen-
sion, provident fund etc.

6.1 Scheduled Caste Training Programme


The Kerala government has introduced a SC training
programme to give employment opportunities to the
Figure 4.6: Weaving process of Kasargod Sarees underprivileged backward classes.The duration of this
training programme is 6 months. The strength of the
March - April 2016 381
OTHERS

training programme is 40.An experienced trainer is about the product and place orders.
appointed by the government. The trainees are given ◆ There should be scope for customization of prod-
Rs.100 as stipend per day. The government had funded ucts.
Rs.1crore for this project which included the building, ◆ Value addition of products by using techniques
looms, furniture, lodging and the stipend. like embroidery, printing etc.

7. SWOT Analysis 9. Conclusion


Strength There is a huge demand for handloom products in the
◆ 100% Handloom Product. market today. The biggest challenge in today's com-
◆ The unique manufacturing process which in- petitive scenario is fulfilling the growing customer
cludes: demands by overcoming the crisis of labor and raw
- Loom sizing, material availability.
- Warping for 33 sarees at a time,
- The usage of Malabar looms etc. The world is becoming more eco-friendly and there is
◆ Traditional designs and motifs a growing obsession with natural and handmade prod-
◆ Saree that lasts for 15 to 20 years without any ucts. The eco-friendly factor of Kasargod sarees is the
special care. right marketing tool to be used for promotion.
◆ Good color fastness With the support and initiative of Government this
◆ GI product 300 year old woven tradition will surely withstand the
◆ Eco friendly manufacturing process challenges of time.
Weakness
◆ Slow production due to manual labour References
◆ Failure to update new designs 1. Government of India, Geographical Indications
◆ Cannot meet the growing demands Journal, No. 32, March 30, 2010, pp 45-54.
Opportunities 2. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kasargod_district -
◆ Increase in demand for handloom products. accessed on 15 July 2015.
◆ Help and support from Government to promote 3. Brochure of kasargod sarees 2015.
handloom sector 4. http://www.tantuvi.com/history.htm, accessed on
◆ SC training cluster to install new weavers 14.07.2015
Threats 5. http://nishamadhulika.com/en/568-history-of-
◆ Lack of workers saree.html, accessed on 20.07.2015.
◆ Non availability of yarn in hank form. 6. http://www.hindu.com/2008/07/01/stories/
" Difficulty in accessing accessories for handloom. 2008070150010200.htm, accessed on 25.07.2015
◆ Extinction in making sizing brush and failure to 7. http://kasargod.nic.in/index_main.htm, accessed
replace them. on 26.07.2015
8. https://www.keralatourism.org/districts/kasargod/,
8. Suggestions accessed on 26.08.2015.
◆ Undertake training programme every year and 9. http://keralahandloom.blogspot.in/2011/07/kerala-
make it open for all interested candidates. handloom-industry.html, accessed on 26.07.2015.
◆ Design intervention to provide variety products 10. http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/bengaluru/
which would be acceptable by all age groups and Kasargod-Saree-Reviving-a tradition/article show/
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

classes. 28055734.cms - accessed on 16 July 2015.


◆ Product diversification to include products like 11. http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-na-
shawls, dress materials, shirting etc. which have tional/tp-kerala/the-enduring-appeal-of-kasargod-
high demand among the new generation. sari/article1287293.ece - accessed on 20 July
◆ Introduce fixed wages for weavers. 2015.
◆ Government should take initiative to provide raw 12. Tana Bana - A Documentary Film on
materials like yarn at reasonable price. KASARGOD SAREES: https://
◆ Advertising should be done by means of social www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4Mu8Bejepc.
networking and online webpage should be cre-
❑ ❑ ❑
ated where people can easily access information

382 March - April 2016


TEXPERIENCE

Decorative Textiles
Use of Elephant grass by Artisans
Woven baskets, mats and hats constitute a small but important part of handicraft
textiles. Basketry is one of the oldest and universally practiced art forms to pro-
duce useful and artistically beautiful objects. Artisans have preserved their tradi-
tional skills over many generations to produce elegant yet strong woven baskets
for both functional and decorative use. Baskets are part of the heritage of almost
all ancient civilisations and their construction and variety make them desirable
decorative home textiles.

Dr. Ashok Athalye

Dr. Ashok Athalye is currently


a GM (Technical services) in
Atul Ltd. He is heading the
technical team in the area of
The Indian home textile market of Rs.17,000 cr in 2010 is expected to grow at
textile dyes and chemicals for
CAGR 9 % and reach Rs.40,000 cr by 2020. The unorganised sector dominates
both domestic and international
this market. Home textiles have now transformed into life style items from being
market. He has an experience
just a utilitarian products and their demand is increasing day by day. The handi-
of working in many renowned
craft sector plays a significant role in the home textile products and the country's
companies like ICI (India), ltd.,
economy. It provides employment to a vast segment of craftsman in rural and semi
Croda Chemicals, Jaysynth
urban areas and generates substantial foreign exchange, while preserving its cul-
Dyechem Ltd., Serene Dyestuff
tural heritage.
Ltd., Ciba Geigy Ltd. And
Indokem Ltd. He has an Traditionally artisans have used natural and locally available material for making
experience of around 20 years such article; usually the fibres are extracted from stems or leaves of plant and are
in Technical services of dyed with natural coloring components which are then hand woven to make artis-
dyestuffs and chemicals. tic but useful objects.

He has a vast knowledge in the Elephant Grass is one of such abundantly available natural material which de-
field of dyes and chemicals. He rives its name from being a favorite food and hiding place for elephants. It is also
did his Ph.D. (Tech.) Textile known as Napier grass and scientifically termed as Pennisetum purpureum, a
Chemistry, M.Sc. (Tech.) and species of tropical African grasslands which is also found in many parts of Aus-
B.Sc. (Tech.) from ICT tralia, America and Asia.
(formerly UDCT ) Mumbai. He It has low water and nutrient requirements and therefore can make use of other-
also did Diploma (DIM), wise uncultivated lands. It grows up to 10 feet tall bamboo-like clumps and has
Advanced Diploma (ADM) and yellowish green to purple color. This grass has high biomass production of about
specialization in Marketing 40 tons/ha/year and can be harvested 4 to 6 times a year. The specific advantages
Management (DMM) from of this grass are
I.G.N.O.U. New Delhi. He is
also a Fellow of Society of ◆ Environmentally friendly renewable source
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Dyers and Colorists, SDC, UK. ◆ Easy to grow having long life span
He has many research and ◆ Low maintenance cost
review publications to his ◆ Does not need pesticides or fertilisers
credit.
Apart from being used for traditional animal feed, this grass finds many uses like
pest management, improving soil fertility, protecting arid land from soil erosion,
paper pulp production, making handicraft articles and for producing bio-fuel.
Varieties of Elephant grass are available in nature and their chemical composition
varies from region to region and also depends on the time of harvesting. Gener-
ally, the protein and cellulosic fibre content decreases while the dry matter content
increases as the grass grows old. Generally, Elephant grass harvesting within 60

March - April 2016 383


TEXPERIENCE

to 90 days yields material having highest content of crude As the chemical composition of Elephant grass contains both
protein, cellulose, hemicelluloses, and lignin and is best suited protein as well as cellulosic components, it can be dyed with
for basket making. different class of dyes which are suitable for dyeing natural
fibres like cotton, linen, jute, wool, silk, etc. Dyestuffs
Composition % belonging to chemical class of Direct, Reactive, Acid, etc.
Protein 12.4 can be used for dyeing of Elephant grass.
Cellulose 12.3 Considering factors like brightness of shade, surface level-
Hemicellulose 38.2 ness, dye diffusion inside fibre core, ease of application,
Lignin 10.7 simplicity of process and adequate fastness properties (wet
and light fastness as the dye should not bleed or fade during
Moisture 8.8 handling and use of baskets, mats and hats), Acid and Metal
Dry Matter, Ash 17.6 complex dyes are found to score over other class of dyes.
In India, hybrid elephant grass varieties are also available The simple dyeing process involves dipping the Elephant
which are more leafy, fine textured, palatable, fast growing grass strands in required quantity of dyestuffs as per desired
and drought resistant than normal Elephant grass. Hybrid shade along with a suitable levelling and an acidic pH
grass contains about 10.2% crude protein and 30.5% crude controlling agent and boiled for 30 to 60 min depending on
fibre which make it high-quality forage for cattle. desired depth of shade. After completion of dyeing the strands
are given a cold wash followed by dyefixing treatment (op-
Basket Making from Elephant grass is well known and
tional) under acidic pH conditions for 30 min at room tem-
practiced commonly in Bolgatanga village located in north-
perature and finally air dried.
ern Ghana where they are called Bolga baskets and similar
process is practiced in other countries as well. This process Summary
requires great practice and skill, as well as serious training
before the artisans become weaving expert. The strands of India has rich heritage of art and craft, each and every part
grass are tied in bunches and then dyed using different of this country has its own unique handicraft styles. The
colors, each part of the basket - the sides, base and handle, handicraft sector in Basketry is evolving and creating prod-
needs special straw which is selected after appropriate dye- ucts according to today's consumer demands. Product diver-
ing. sification and making it contemporary will provide greater
satisfaction to the craftsmen. Basket making craft is a tradi-
The uniqueness of these baskets is that they can be "re- tional heritage providing employment and earning capability
shaped" by wetting them with water and then "massaging" to a large number of craftsman from rural area. Overall, the
them back to original shape with open hand. Their robust, employment in Indian handicraft segment is expected to reach
bamboo like properties give them desired durability and long 80 lakhs by the end of 2017 which at present is estimated
lasting sustainability. These baskets are ideal for shopping, at 67 lakh.
storage and decoration. Elephant grass is also used for making
table mats, sleeping mats, decorative wall hangings, etc. and The Handicraft sector has, however, suffered due to its be-
can also be blended with cotton or other suitable material. ing unorganized, with the additional constraints of lack of
education, low capital, and poor exposure to new technolo-
The Elephant grass is woven by following process : gies, absence of market intelligence, and a poor institutional
framework. In spite of these constraints, sector has witnessed
◆ Each stalk of straw is split vertically in half
a significant growth of 3 % annually. Therefore, dyes and
◆ Two split lengths are rolled and twisted tightly to form
chemical manufacturers like ATUL and RACL have initiated
a strong strand
steps to provide dyes application training to make Indian
◆ Strands are prewetting with suitable wetting agent
handicraft sector shine at global level.
◆ Dyeing with a suitable natural or synthetic dye in a pot
◆ Drying in open air This art is a major source of income for many artisans. But
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

◆ Weaving as per requirement of basket design and size this sector is still unorganised and decentralised. Collabora-
◆ Trimming off remaining | extruding straw from the tion with fashion | designing institutes will also support ar-
basket tisans in getting worldly exposure and the traditional art can
be retained and saved. Moreover, the new generation of
Coloration of Elephant grass
artisans can get different and new innovative ideas which
For achieving uniform and level dyeing effect, it is generally can uplift their economic standard.
recommended to first boil the grass strands in a powerful
Ashok Athalye
wetting agent like RUCOGEN WBL (dosage -1 g/l) for 30
Technical Service,
min to make then thoroughly wet. This helps improve sur-
Atul Ltd (Colors Division), Valsad, Gujarat, India
face absorbency as well as core penetration during subse-
quent dyeing.

384 March - April 2016


TEXNOTE

The series of chapters under the title, 'Textile scaffolds in Tissue Engineering' are being published in the
Journal of Textile Association which cover the role of textiles for various scaffolds, the type and form of
materials used for making scaffolds, application of these scaffolds for recovery of various organs and the
scope of textile technology in tissue engineering scaffolds in future.
This series is written primarily as an introductory text for an audience comprised of those interested or
already working in, textile related areas, who wish to acquire broad knowledge of tissue engineering
scaffolds and the application of textiles in it.
In the previous chapter, an attempt was made to evolve with a simple understanding about the use of textile
technology involved in the bone tissue engineering. The requirements of bone tissue engineering, the
various materials used for engineering of the hard tissue and the recent advancements done for the
replacement of the bone tissue are covered in the chapter.
In the present chapter, the readers are presented with the aspects of medical scaffolding in dentistry. The
crucial requirements for manufacturing of these scaffolds, the biomaterials in use and the fabrication
techniques are discussed briefly in this chapter. The research carried out in this field of tissue engineering
and the materials available commercially are also covered.

Chapter 11 : Textile scaffolds in Dentistry


Pallavi Madiwale, Mrs. Rachana Shukla & Dr. R V Adivarekar

1. Introduction glands have been developed using tissue engineering


As seen in the previous chapter the bone tissue engi- approaches effectively. Different materials are also in
neering is wide spread field and involves the use of place and used as the implants in the dental cavity.
various fields for a successful engineering of bone tis- However there are various disadvantages related to their
sues. Teeth and oral tissues have very important role use. Hence, tissue engineering approaches have been
for performing certain functions in humans. Dental introduced as an innovative alternative to conventional
caries and peritonitis are the common diseases that cause biomaterials to replace the lost or damaged human oral
the loss of dental tissues. The different oral tissues like tissues. The use of varied tissue engineering approaches
tissues in the oral cavity, bone, cartilage, skin and oral like stem cells, growth factors, and the tissue engi-
mucosa, dentin and dental pulp, and salivary glands neered scaffolds (as carriers to facilitate delivery of
have been tried to be engineered using the tissue scaf- stem cells and/or growth factors at a local receptor site)
folds. The masticatory stresses that result in the loss of are been employed for the recovery of the lost or dam-
the wear and tear of the oral cavity or the changes in aged tissues in the dental cavity due to trauma, caries
the functioning are due to dynamic environments. To or periodontal diseases.
deal with the various issues in the oral tissue engineer-
ing, the researcher have attempted different strategies. 2. Requirements of scaffolds
Tissue engineering application is based on three main Scaffolds are temporary frameworks used to provide a
components, cell source (mainly stem cells that differ- three dimensional micro-environment where cells can
entiate into different cell lines), a scaffold (to support proliferate, differentiate and generate the desired tis-
and act as carrier for cells) and bioactive molecules or sue. As there are very different aspects involved in the
signals (to induce differentiation and tissue formation). dental cavity with respect to the other body parts the
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The various biomaterials are also explored in the manu- various factors have to be considered while selecting
facturing of dental tissue scaffolds. Lately, various at- biomaterials for dental tissue scaffolds. The issues like
tempts have been made at the research level to manu- exposure to body fluids present in the oral cavity can
facture scaffold materials using various biopolymers result in the degradation or corrosion of material inside
like natural polymers (collagen, polysaccharides, or the oral cavity, or further to the issue, oral environment
fibrin), natural silk, synthetic polymers [poly (lactic acid) may react with material to release cytotoxic or harmful
or poly (glycolic acid)], and ceramics [hydroxyapatite components. The design of the ideal dental scaffold for
(HA) and tri-calcium phosphate]. A range of dental each tissue to be formed is a challenging task. An ideal
applications such as pulp dentin complex regeneration, scaffold must allow cell attachment and migration,
guided tissue regeneration (GTR), tooth and salivary permit the localized and sustained delivery of growth

March - April 2016 385


TEXNOTE

factors, and enable the influx of oxygen to maintain the mize the risk of inflammatory response. It must be
high metabolic demands of cells engaged in tissue re- emphasized that during the scaffold degradation, the
generation. The dental scaffolding materials involve local pH should not be significantly lower than the
mainly the use of ceramic materials, also natural and physiological pH, otherwise cell death and protein deg-
synthetic polymers are used for manufacture of scaf- radation may occur.
folds. As the scaffolds are target specific, the choice of
scaffold material depends on the desired outcome. Thus 3. Biomaterials in dental tissue engineering
the physical properties of the scaffold like rheological Biomaterials play a crucial role in the field of tissue
behavior, mechanical properties, surface roughness and engineering. They are utilized for fabricating frame-
porosity as well as chemical characteristics and prod- works known as scaffolds, matrices or constructs which
ucts of degradation that will be formed must be consid- are interconnected porous structures that establish a
ered while selection as dental scaffolds. cellular microenvironment required for optimal tissue
regeneration. Several natural and synthetic biomaterials
The scaffold's physical properties have to attend the have been utilized for fabrication of tissue engineering
needs of the target environment. It must present proper scaffolds.
mechanical resistance to support in vivo stresses, and
it should be mechanically compatible with the surround- Ceramics have noteworthy advantages of aesthetics,
ing tissues. The scaffold's mechanical properties have a biocompatibility, and mimicry of natural enamel prop-
direct impact in tissue formation by affecting cell dif- erties. However, most are custom fabricated into dental
ferentiation into the desired phenotype through restorations and contain porosity and/or stress risers
mechano-transduction. Therefore, linear elastic scaffolds that lead to cracks. A wide range of all-ceramic mate-
are preferred when one attempt to generate bone, and rials have been employed (feldspathic porcelains, leu-
nonlinear elastic or visco-elastic models are more suit- cite-reinforced porcelains, alumina-reinforced porce-
able for soft tissues of the dental cavity. lains, high-density alumina ceramics, high-density zir-
conia ceramics, glass-infiltrated ceramics, glass ceram-
Scaffold porosity is also critical to tissue generation. ics), but not much elegance has been applied to local
The quantity and extension of pores change the spe- control of domain properties within ceramic. Layered
cific scaffold surface modifying its permeability and ceramics and textured ceramics are used to tackle with
mechanical properties, having strong impact in cell the short coming of Surface film modifications or sur-
seeding, nutrient diffusion and tissue in-growth. Nota- face treatments like sandblasting may be used to elimi-
bly, higher number and extension of pores allows for nate fabrication defects that otherwise might generate
enhanced cell growth but reduces scaffold strength. A cracks. Ceramics are difficult to form into complicated
study suggested pore size ranging from 50 to 400 nm geometries using high-temperature processes in a cost-
for the optimum bone growth into porous-surfaced effective manner in small dental laboratories. Novel
metallic implants. However, it has been described up to ceramic textures and micro-structural control can be
80% of bone in-growth after 2 months from implanting produced by rapid prototyping, stereolithography, and
scaffolds in mice, regardless the pore sizes, which other printing techniques.
ranged from 300 to 1200 nm. It has been proposed that
pore interconnectivity is even more important to sus- Cements also have a crucial role to play in the oral
tain bone growth than the pore size itself. cavity. Though they do not represent much volume of
dental material, they are involved in a crucial step of
The scaffold degradation is fundamental to achieve luting and bonding restorations. There has been an
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

success in tissue engineering therapies. The scaffold evolution from the use of the traditional cement (zinc
should ideally reabsorb once it has served its purpose phosphate) towards the use of resin-based cements
of providing a template for tissue regeneration. Impor- (resin-modified glass ionomers). Since 2002, there has
tantly, the degradation must occur at a rate compatible been a new class called "universal cements" which are
with the new tissue formation. For example, the im- a hybrid of the properties of resin-modified glass
plantation of fast degrading scaffolds decreases the in ionomers and composites that purport to replace the
vitro viability of primary smooth muscle cells resulting two types with one. The commercial names of the
in less cell population and lower angiogenesis levels. universal cements are Unicem, 3M ESPE, St. Paul,
Furthermore, the degradation products should not be MN; MaxCem, Kerr, Orange, CA. They are designed
toxic and must be easily cleared or resorbed to mini- to be self-etching.
386 March - April 2016
TEXNOTE

Amongst other biomaterials, polymers are the most the matrix selected should preferably be soft and in-
extensively experimented and employed materials. They jectable to ease delivery into the complex pulp space,
can be tailored to provide good interconnected poros- allow cell attachment to the matrix and the surrounding
ity, large surface area, adequate mechanical strengths, pulp cavity walls, support vascularity and exhibit mini-
varying surface characterization and different geom- mal contraction.
etries required for tissue regeneration. A single type of
material may however not meet all the requirements. A single matrix may not be an ideal scaffold material.
Selection of two or more biomaterials, optimization of Hybrid scaffolds may be best suited keeping in view
their physical, chemical and mechanical properties and the variations in tooth composition.
advanced fabrication techniques are required to obtain
scaffold designs intended for their final application. 4. Fabrication of dental scaffolds
a. Engineering techniques used for dental scaffolds
Biomaterials for constructing scaffolds can be natural / Dental tissue regeneration aims at (a) regenerating an
synthetic and rigid / non rigid. Natural biomaterials entire tooth which is structurally and functionally sound,
offer good cellular compatibility i.e. ability to support (b) regenerating individual components of a tooth like
cell survival and function thereby enhancing the cells' enamel, dentin, pulp, cementum, periodontal ligament
performance, and biocompatibility. Their disadvantages and alveolar bone. Bio engineered teeth, similar to
include source variability, immunogenicity, if not pure, natural teeth, are expected to occlude precisely in the
limited range of mechanical properties and lack of dentition, establish proper contacts with adjacent teeth,
control over pore size. Some natural biomaterials used provide proprioception, transmit masticatory loads and
in tooth regeneration include (a) proteins like collagen, restore aesthetics. To generate such teeth with predeter-
fibrin and silk (b) polysaccharides like chitosan, hyalu- mined morphology, it is highly important to precisely
ronic acid, alginate and agarose. and orderly orient epithelial mesenchymal cell layers
onto the scaffold as well as guide their interaction with
Unlike natural biomaterials, synthetic biomaterials can the extracellular matrix.
be manufactured in unlimited supply under controlled
conditions, are cheaper and can be tailored to obtain This differential placement of cells and their interac-
desired shape, cell differentiation properties and me- tion with the matrix can possibly be achieved by em-
chanical and chemical properties especially the strength, ploying 3-D imprinting scaffold fabrication, cell seed-
pore characteristics and degradation rate suited for in- ing techniques and recent advances in nanotechnology.
tended applications. However, synthetic biomaterials The traditional top down strategy in tissue engineering
lack cell adhesion sites and require chemical modifica- aims at seeding cells in a preformed 3D scaffold of
tions to improve cell adhesion. Examples of synthetic polymers, natural porous materials or decellularized
biomaterials are organic polymers like poly lactic acid native extracellular matrix. In the bottom up strategy of
(PLA), poly glycolic acid (PGA), poly lactide-co- gly- tissue engineering, various methods like cell printing,
colic acid (PLGA) and polycaprolactone (PCL). Other microwells, cell sheets and self assembled hydrogels
synthetic materials include inorganic calcium phosphate can be used to aggregate cells to form distinct subunits
materials like hydroxyapatite (HA) or beta tricalcium that could then be used as building blocks to engineer
phosphate (? TCP), and compositions of silicate and whole organs.
phosphate glasses. PLA, PGA, PLGA and PCL are few
polymers that are commonly used for forming porous Currently, two approaches are considered for tooth
scaffolds. regeneration:
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Rigid biomaterials provide structural substitutes where (a) Scaffold based approach which involves using scaf-
as soft biomaterials are chosen to provide cell encapsu- folds on which cells can be planted either in vitro or by
lation. Since a tooth is routinely subjected to mechani- cell homing. Cell homing compared to cell delivery
cal loads, it is crucial that a matrix selected for regen- based tooth regeneration involves in situ induction of
erating hard tissues has adequate strength properties to endogenous stem cells from adjacent host sites to
support the applied loads. Additionally, the regenerated mobilize and inhabit the native host matrix or implanted
matrix should not undergo any volumetric change lest scaffold matrix. This method excludes the need for
it induces residual stresses in the tissue predisposing it isolation and laboratory manipulation of cells thereby
to fracture. For regenerating pulp within a natural tooth, improving clinical success and reducing cost.

March - April 2016 387


TEXNOTE

(b) Scaffold free approach aims at directly inducing the various research aspects have been explored.
developmental processes of embryonic tooth formation Nanofibers is an important division of biomaterials due
guided by appropriate signals to produce tooth struc- to a wide range of biomedical applications. The fabri-
tures that mimic natural teeth in morphology and size. cation of nanofibers has attracted a lot of researchers
Former approach is dependent on use of biomaterials due to unique properties required for biomedical appli-
for the fabrication of scaffolds. Determining the physi- cations for example availability of greater surface area
cal and mechanical properties of biomaterials and as- for cellular interaction, protein absorption and binding
sessing their effect on cell survival and extracellular sites to cell receptors. Nanofibers can facilitate packing
matrix deposition is imperative for any scaffold based of maximum volume fraction by controlling fibers align-
tissue regeneration. ment and orientation hence improving the material
strength. The material properties such as surface mor-
b. Cell growth methods for regeneration phology, porosity and geometry can be tailored or
The cell growth on the scaffolds can be categorized functionalized for certain applications, for example,
into three different types. The scaffolds can be either bioactive agents for biomedical applications.
cell-seeded, cell-incubated or cell injected. All three
methods are inter-related approaches of tissue engineer- Introduction of nano sized particles has tremendously
ing. These approaches depend on the use of one or revolutionized tissue engineering in the dental field. At
more key elements e.g., cells, growth factors and ma- significantly smaller sizes, these particles greatly in-
trix to guide tissue regeneration. crease the surface area per unit volume and the quatum
effects compared to large sized particles, thereby im-
For cell injection strategy, stem cells are the most suc- proving the performance behavior of materials. Collec-
cessful candidate. Since the tissue formation resulted tive advancements in nanotechnology have enabled the
from cellular action, injection of inherently intelligent fabrication of innovative scaffolds like composite
cells, stem cells in particular, into the defect have been nanofibrous scaffolds that simulate the matrix environ-
suggested to regenerate tissues. The effectiveness of ment in which cells can be accommodated to prolifer-
this therapy however is limited by low engraftment and ate and differentiate towards desired lineages. Nano
inadequate localisation of injected cells particularly in meter sized fibers can be processed to form highly
areas showing continuous movement. Immunological porous scaffolds that will allow easy cell migration and
rejection and the ability of the injected cells to main- nutrient diffusion. Not only do they provide a large
tain their phenotype are other challenges. Due to the surface area for cell attachment but also because of
limitations with cell injection therapy, there has been a increased porosity permit the delivery of drugs and
clear and distinct shift to recruiting the circulating body growth factors, thereby allowing interaction between
cells to regenerate the tissues. This is known as cell- cells and extracellular matrix as seen during normal
induction therapy. tissue development.

Combining all the previous attempts together led to the Nano fibrous scaffolds that will promote functional
emergence of another strategy to engineer tissues. This tissue regeneration can be created by simple coating
strategy depends on the isolation of appropriate cell methods, blending of polymeric- bioactive molecules
population from a biopsy taken from the patient or a or by surface modification methods. Hydrophilization,
donor. And the most likely candidate for such therapies electro-spinning and more recently electro-spin-electro-
remains the Mesenchymal Stem Cell (MSC). spraying are few methods that enable the synthesis of
polymeric and composite nano scaffolds suited for spe-
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

5. Current research scenario cific biomedical applications.


Tissue engineering approaches have been developed on
a research level for a range of dental applications such Creating a controlled micro-texture on implant surfaces
as pulp dentin complex regeneration, guided tissue via additive surface modification techniques with
regeneration (GTR), tooth, and salivary glands with an bioactive nano-hydroxyapatite have shown to positively
effective outcome. influence guided tissue regeneration. Nano-structured
HA compared to bulk HA provides close contact with
There are diverse ranges of approaches that are em- surrounding tissues and quick resorption characteris-
ployed for the manufacture of tissue scaffolds for den- tics. It has also shown to increase the proliferation rate
tal tissues. Nanotechnology is the crucial area in which of PDL cells possibly by activating the epidermal growth
388 March - April 2016
TEXNOTE

factor and its downstream targets. Modifying the poly- Application in Dentistry Biomaterial used
mer surface with cell adhesive ligands like arginine- Tooth regeneration Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA),
glycine-aspartic acid (RGD) peptide derived from fibro- Polydiaxonone (PDS)
nectin improves cell adhesion and interaction. The ef-
Guided tissue Collagen, Poly
fect of artificial bioactive nano structures- branched
peptide amphiphile molecules containing RGD (BRGD- regeneration (lactide-co-glycolide) (PLGA),
Poly-L-Lactic Acid (PLLA),
PA) on ameloblasts like cells and enamel organ epithe-
Poly carpolactone (PCL)
lial cells of mouse embryonic incisors was studied. In Polyethylene oxide (PEO), Silk
both cell and organ culture models, enhanced cell at-
Caries prevention Chitosan
tachment and proliferation with greater enamel specific
protein expression levels were seen. Introducing cell Reinforcement of Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA),
cleavable groups in polymeric hydrogels also improved resin composites Polyacrylnitrile, Polystyrene,
Nylon
cell penetration.
Implant modification PLGA, Collagen
Large complex 3D scaffolds laden with microvascular Cartilage regeneration PCL Polyethylene oxide (PEO),
networks and growth factor concentration gradients have Chitosan
recently been designed using microfluidics to promote Drug delivery Poly (ethylene-co-vinylacetate),
culturing of multiple cell types and guide cell growth Poly (lactic acid) (PLLA),
in a controlled space. Encapsulated cells within 200 Poly (lactide-co-glycolide)
?m of the micro-fluidic channels have shown the best (PLGA)
survival, suggesting that microchannels provide con- Wound and Poly-L-(lactic acid), Poly
duits for diffusion of nutrients and metabolites to seeded mucosal repair (lactide-co-glycolide) (PLGA),
cells thereby enhancing neo-vascularization and/or cell chitin, chitosan,
metabolism which is especially important when regen- silk fibroin, collagen
erating dental pulp. About the Authors
Miss. Pallavi Madiwale is currently pursuing Ph.D.(Tech.)
Electro-spinning in Fibers and Textile Processing Technology in the
The major application of electrospun materials is pri- Department of Fibers and Textile Processing Technology,
marily for tissue engineering and regeneration of oral under Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, at Institute of
and dental tissues. The electro-spinning is an excellent Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. Her research
technique for fabricating tissue engineering scaffolds. areas of interest are Functional finishes, Encapsulation
A variety of materials including natural polymers (silk, of speciality chemicals, Bio-materials and Tissue
collagen, chitosan), synthetic polymers (polyvinyl alco- engineering.
Mrs. Rachana Shukla is currently pursuing Ph.D.(Tech.)
hol, polydioxanone) and nano-composites (hydroxya-
in Fibers and Textile Processing Technology in the
patite blends) have been electrospun for tissue engi-
Department of Fibers and Textile Processing Technology,
neering of oral and dental tissues. In addition, these under Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, at Institute of
materials have been used for biomaterials applications Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. Her research
such as modifications of implant surfaces, restorative areas of interest are Textile colouration, Polymer science,
nano-composites and drug delivery. In addition, these Conservation of resources in textile wet processing and
materials have been used for biomaterials applications Effluent treatment.
such as modifications of implant surfaces, restorative Dr. Ravindra Adivarekar is currently Professor and Head
nano-composites and drug delivery. of the Department of Fibres and Textiles Processing
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Technology at the Institute of Chemical Technology


The table below gives a brief summary of the different (ICT), Mumbai, India. His research areas of interest are
Textile colouration, Green processing of textiles, Medical
biomaterials used for the manufacture of the electrospun
textiles, Enzyme manufacturing and application, Natural
fibres that are used for the respective application in the dyes for textiles and cosmetics, Novel textile processing
field of dentistry. techniques and Textile composites. He has around 5 years
Texttreasure of Industrial Experience mainly of Processing and
Dyestuff manufacturing companies prior to being faculty
Hard work beats talent, when talent doesn't work for last 13 years. He has filed 2 patents and published
hard. more than 125 papers in journals of national and
- Tim Notke International repute.

March - April 2016 389


UNIT ACTIVITY

lighted on ITMA Exhibition held at Italy.


The Textile Association (India)

M. P. Unit

Seminar on
SHAPE INDIA - SHAPE TEXTILE
ENERGY SAVED - MONEY EARNED
The Textile Association (India) - Madhya Pradesh Unit
organized a seminar jointly with International Copper
Association & Spinners Club 'Shape India - Shape Tex-
tile on Energy Saved - Money Earned' on 05-12-2015 at
Hotel Shiv Palace at Mandideep, Bhopal.

During the seminar there was session of "Question &


Answer" & the issue of power saving is discussed. Dif-
ferent Electrician explain how to save energy.
Mr. N.S. Nirban made the seminar more interesting with
his singing old songs.There were more than 100 partici-
pants attend seminar.
The program was started with "DEEP PRAJALAN" Mr. Ashok Veda, Hon. Secretary honored Mr. K.N.
byChief Guest Shri S. Pal (Director of Vardhman) along Hemanth Kumar, Mr. S. K. Bhatt with the mementos.
with Guest of honor Shri S.K. Bhatt (Head of Nahar Shri H.M.Tripathi (Head of spinning Vardhman Febric),
Spinning Mills Mandideep), Shri M.S. Saini (Head of summarized theTechnical session.
Oswal Denim, Pilllukhedi), Shri N.S. Nirban (Director Following dignities were present in this seminar:
of Texpert) and Shri Kailash Agrawal (President Mr. Meghraj Chouhan, Mr. Deepak Chopra & Team (Hind
MPACPT). Syntex Ltd.), Mr. L. R. Nishad, Mr. S.K. Chopra & Team
The Program was conducted by Mr. Ankit Veda (Vice (Anant Spinning), Mr. Sapan Shah & Team (DFOS Mar-
President Spinners Club). Mr. Ashok Veda, Hon. Secre- keting), Mr. Kaushal Garg, (Vardhman, Bhopal), Mr.
tary, TAI M.P. Unit welcomed all and delivered his Jimmy Gupta & Team (Grundfos Pumps), Mr. N. Malviya,
welcome speech. He highlighted the activities of the Mr. Rajkumar Haran, Mr. Tarun Lakshkar, Mr. Arun
Association and he said that Mr. S. K. Bhatt is a young Verma & Team (Bhaskar Denim), Mr. Rajesh Ku. Singh
having dynamic personality who has taken Nahar Spin- & Team, Mr. B.B. Bhatia, Mr. G.M. Mishra, Mr. M.G.
ning Mills on a New Height. Choudhary & Team (Nahar Spinning Mills), Mr. M.G.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

TAI M.P. Unit has given him the responsibilities of TAI Choudhary & Team (Oswal Denim), Mr. Yashpal
Bhopal chapter. He also mentioned for Mr. N.S. Nirban Kanogiya (Shanti Gears), Mr. V.K. Soni, Sunil Yadav&
that "Khandar batate hai imarat kitni majboot thi". Team (NBT Textile), Mr. Kailash Agrawal (MPACPT),
Mr. Sunil Mittal & Team (Moenus Textile Pvt. Ltd.) and
Mr. S.Pal, Chief Guest of function was honored with others.
Life Time Achievement Award, who has highly contrib-
uted in changing the scenario of textile industry in the The seminar ended with National Anthem and followed
region. by Dinner.
Mr. K.N. Hemanth Kumar, made his Technical presenta- Chief Sponsor: International Copper Association
tion. Also Mr. H. M. Tripathi has given success mantra India Co- Sponsor: TAI M.P. & Spinner Club
"Power Saved Money Earned". Mr. Tripathialso high-
390 March - April 2016
UNIT ACTIVITY

Articles were producedin the Seminar in two session.


West Bengal Unit First session was chaired by Prof. (Dr.) K.K. Goswami
and 2nd session was chaired by Prof. Dr. Sadhan
Celebrated its 65th Annual Conference Chandra Roy, Department of Jute and Fibre Technol-
ogy, University of Calcutta.

A questions & answers session and valedictory session


were before a Lucky Dip draw contest among the
delegates present at the session.

Director NIFT Kolkata Mrs. Binwant Kaur


giving the keynote address

Dignitaries on stage, Sri A.K.Roy, Dr. K.K.Goswami, Sri


Sanjay Jhunjhunwala, Prof. Binwant Kaur, Sri Jewraj
Sethia, Dr. S.K.Bhattacharya, Sri A.K.Mukherjee

Sri JewrajSethia President West Bengal Unit


TAI delivering his speech

The Textile Associations (India), West Bengal Unit


Celebrated its 65th Annual Conference at NIFT Audi-
torium in Kolkata on 20th February 2016 with the
Theme on "Trends in Textiles and Garments". Unit
President Sri Jiwraj Sethia, gave his welcome address
and Sri A. K. Roy, Chairman TAI, W.B. narrated about
conference. Keynote address was given by Smt. Mr. Jhunjhunwala MD, Turtle Ltd. delivering his speech
Binwant Kaur, Director NIFT (Kolkata). Programme
was inaugurated by Sri Sanjoy Jhunjhunwala, Manag- Sri Ashoke Kumar Mukherjee, Hon. Secretary TAI-
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

ing Director, Turtle Ltd. as Chief Guest. West Bengal Unit proposed the vote of Thanks.

Dr. K. K. Goswami, Director, Indian Institute of Car- Total participant were 120 from various educational
pet Technology Bhadohi (U.P.) was present as Guest Institute and Industries from the state.
of honour. Our Advisor of West Bengal Unit TAI- Dr. Lunch was arranged after the First Session and High
S. K. Bhattacharya Ex-director NIRJAFT was present Tea was arranged by Colourtex.
in the function as special Dignitary.

A souvenir was published in this special occasion and


a Technical Seminar was arranged. Eight Technical
March - April 2016 391
NEWS

All Motions adopted at Rieter's 2016


Annual General Meeting -
Dividend of 4.50 CHF per share
Shareholders adopted all motions proposed by the edged their invaluable expertise. In place of the de-
Board of Directors at the 125th Annual General parting members, Roger Baillod and Bernhard Jucker
Meeting of Rieter Holding Ltd. and elected Roger were elected to the Board of Directors at the Annual
Baillod and Bernhard Jucker to the Board of Di- General Meeting.
rectors.
Shareholders also adopted all other motions proposed
523 shareholders, representing 64 % of the share capi- by the Board of Directors, namely approval of the
tal, today attended the Annual General Meeting of annual report, the annual accounts and the consoli-
Rieter Holding Ltd. In view of the strong annual re- dated financial statements for 2015, and formal ap-
sults for 2015 and the company's good financial health, proval of the actions of the members of the Board of
a dividend of 4.50 CHF per share was agreed. Directors and those of the Group Executive Commit-
tee in the 2015 financial year. Moreover, a two-year
The shareholders approved the proposed maximum total extension was approved for the authorized capital.
amount of compensation for members of the Board of
Directors and members of the Group Executive Com- For further information please contact:
mittee for the financial year 2017. Erwin Stoller, Chair- Rieter Holding Ltd.
man of the Board of Directors, and Michael Pieper, Investor Relations
This E. Schneider, Hans-Peter Schwald and Peter JorisGröflin
Spuhler, directors, were each confirmed for a further Chief Financial Officer
one-year term of office. Furthermore, This E. Schneider, T +41 52 208 70 15
Hans-Peter Schwald and Erwin Stoller, the members F +41 52 208 70 60
of the Remuneration Committee who were standing investor@rieter.com
for election, were each re-elected for a one-year term www.rieter.com
of office. Rieter Management Ltd.
Media Relations
Dr. Jakob Baer and Dr. Dieter Spälti did not stand for Cornelia Schreier
re-election at the Annual General Meeting in 2016 and Head Corporate Communications
confirmed they were stepping down permanently. Erwin T +41 52 208 70 32
Stoller, Chairman of the Board of Directors, thanked F +41 52 208 70 60
the two long-serving members of the Board of Direc- media@rieter.com
tors for their high level of commitment and acknowl- www.rieter.com

A.T.E. ties-up with Savio Macchine


Tessili group from Italy
A.T.E. Enterprises Private Limited of India and Savio Savio India Ltd., the advanced TFO manufacturing set
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Macchine Tessili group from Italy have entered into a up of Savio group in India, will continue to provide
strategic partnership at parity position for sales & and ensure state of the art Customer Support and Spare
marketing of Automatic Winders, Two-For-One Twist- Parts Services.
ers (TFO), Continuous Yarn Shrinking Machines, OE
Rotor Spinning Machines in India from 1st April 2016. The A.T.E. group, with its strong marketing network
The Savio group for more than 100 years after its through 11 offices across India and a knowledgeable
modest beginning in 1911 has played major role in sales and marketing force, complements the compe-
development of textile industry worldwide and with tence of the Savio group as Savio's sales and market-
its manufacturing facilities in Italy, India and China ing partner in India. A.T.E. is in the unique position of
that offers state of the art machines. being the only company with a presence across the
392 March - April 2016
NEWS

entire textile value chain for textile machinery & ac- ment costs together with minimum power consump-
cessories, utilities and complete after sales service tion, low maintenance times and the lowest life-cycle
solutions (for key segments). A.T.E. thus is the only costs. With two models : the new generation machine
company with the capability of offering to Indian cus- Sirius with an Electronic Drive System (EDS) and the
tomers a 'one window solution' from spinning to gar- traditional twisting machine Cosmos, Savio has been
ment making. able to address the different needs of different seg-
ments of the markets, offering long term benefits to its
The Savio group has taken a quantum leap and ce- customers through cost effectiveness, energy saving
mented it's technological trend setter position with its and low investment cost.
new automatic winder series EcoPulsarS, launched
during the recently held ITMA at Milan. Through the The partnering of Savio with A.T.E., is set to immensely
new winder EcoPulsarS, Savio has introduced an en- benefit the Indian textile industry, as the expertise from
tirely new concept, which has a capability of giving these two leading groups, offer complete winding and
users up to 30% energy savings and up to 10%, en- twisting solutions to the Indian customers which will
hanced productivity. Savio's well proven and the best- give them a sustainable competitive advantage in their
selling automatic winder model Polar is still the #1 business.
winder in many world markets.
Savio and A.T.E. will soon be organizing customer
Savio is also a front runner with a wide range of Two- days across India for presenting the most advanced
For-One twisters diversified for different market re- winding and twisting technology solutions to the In-
quirements. The Savio twisting technology combined dian customers.
with an ingenious machine design offers low invest-

AUTEFA Solutions and CAMPEN Machinery A/S


announce new partnership
AUTEFA Solutions and CAMPEN Machinery A/S have
made a partnership and offer machinery for airlaids
and spunlaced airlaid products

In March 2016, the two companies have made an


agreement to cooperate in the development and sales
of machinery and production lines for the traditional
airlaid industry as well as for the new "Hydro Laced
Airlaid Process" (HLAL) for non? flushable and
flushable, dispersible, and biodegradable nonwovens,
invented by CAMPEN Machinery A/S Denmark.

André Imhof, CEO AUTEFA Solutions Austria GmbH


and Arne Christensen, CEO CAMPEN Machinery A/ AUTEFA Solutions Square Drum Dryer SQ-V
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

S explain: "With our two companies we are building


a strong partnership. Each of our companies has de- AUTEFA Solutions offers spunlace, drying and pow-
veloped new and energy?saving technology. Together der scattering technology as well as carding and card
we offer complete lines to produce flushable wipes. feeding technology. For the spunlace process AUTEFA
With our combined portfolios we offer advanced pro- Solutions has developed a new hydroentanglement jet.
duction technology, starting from raw material to the This technology enables 30% energy savings due to
final nonwovens products." the special jet design. A new Square Drum Dryer SQ?V
completes the line.

AUTEFA Solutions product range includes fiber prepa-


ration machines, nonwovens cards as well as aerody-
March - April 2016 393
NEWS

namic web forming machines (Airlay), crosslappers dustry. The product range includes coating and lami-
and needle looms for mechanical bonding. AUTEFA nation lines, winding, slitting, rewinding purposes and
Solutions Switzerland delivers equipment for thermal packaging as well as complete lines for the artificial
bonding, drying systems including dryers and ovens turf and carpet industry. CAMPEN Machinery A/S
for the wood pulp and short cut stable fiber based headquarters is in Denmark and are owned by VARO
Airlaid industry. A/S (Group). For more than 40 years, the group has
built hammer mills, drum forming heads and complete
lines for globally leading manufacturers within the
airlaid industry.

The Group has supplied process lines and equipment


for the airlaid industry equal to approximately 20% of
the world's airlaid capacity. A process of 40 years, of
which the group is very proud of.

CAMPEN Machinery has focus on promoting their


airlaid technology worldwide, but also airlaid in com-
bination with spunlace process and where natural and
wood pulp fiber, can be replaced as alternative to
oil?based plastic and/or chemical bonding agents in
the final products.
CMAPEN Machinrery HLAL nonwovens product for
AUTEFA Solutions Germany GmbH
flushable wipes applications
Paul? Lenz?Strasse 1
86316 Friedberg
CAMPEN Machinery is the specialist for web forming
Phone: +49 (0)821 2608-0
from pulp fibers, or other fibers, via fiber dosing,
germany@autefa.com
hammermill and airlaids technology, compacting/em-
www.autefa.com
bossing or calandering units, as well as the winding
CAMPEN Machinery A/S
technology of airlaids or spunlaced airlaid products.
Sletten 8
DK?8543 Hornslet
CAMPEN Machinery A/S has many years of experi-
Phone: +45 8744 3100
ence of development and manufacturing of different
campen@campen.dk
types of equipment for the carpet and nonwoven in-

Suvin - Exploring Global Markets for you


@ IDEA 2016 -2nd May to 5th May 2016
Today, Suvin is one of the major consultancy firms in creasing. India has a great potential tocapitalize this
India making its strong mark in domestic as well as opportunity. The technical textile market size in India
international textile industry. MD & CEO, Mr. Avinash is expected to grow at CAGR of 20% and reach
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mayekar is continuously promoting Technical Textiles 1,58,540 crores by 2016-17. Globally technical tex-
in India since 2000 & have successfully executed sev- tiles contribute to about 27% of textile industry. In
eral projects in domestic as well as international mar- most of the developed countries, its share is even 50
kets. Till date Suvin has completed 225 assignments percent while in India, it is hardly 11%. As Indian
including 13 international assignments. Suvin is al- market size is very small compared to global markets,
ways in continuous efforts to serve Technical Textile globally there is a huge market for Indian players to
Industryprofessionally & exploring new platforms to explore.
promote India in global markets.
International Exhibitions give a common platform to
The global market for Technical Textiles is ever in- display products & offerings in global markets. It's a

394 March - April 2016


NEWS

great way for networking & business promotion where furnishings and allied industries. During three days of
one can get unique opportunity to meet potential buy- the event, one can meet and conduct business with
ers. IDEA is the industry's premier event for nonwovens actual decision makers.
and engineered fabrics. Mr. Avinash Mayekar Says "I
am a regular visitor to IDEA shows since 2007 & Suvin has smartly identified this as a unique opportu-
found ever increasing response by global leaders as it nity to market Indian products in untapped global
gives an opportunity to showcase our credentials to markets. Suvin is pleased to have strategic alliance
entire world. Through my personal contacts in global with Indian organizations & represent them during
Technical Textile industry, I have well established IDEA 2016. Suvin has all technical expertise, product
network in various countries". knowledge & marketing network to promote products
globally. They are all set to represent Indian clients
It is expected that more than 7,000 people will con- in IDEA'16 @Booth No. 2140, Hall B.
verge in Boston from more than 70 countries from
various sectors like hygiene, filtration, medical, auto- Let us carve out … Better tomorrow!!!
motive, geotextiles, building/construction textiles, home

ITM - the global meeting of


textile technology giants
Hall 3 /
Booth 315A

SSM at ITM in Istanbul, Turkey, 1 - 4 June ◆ Dye Package Winding/Rewinding (including Tech-
2016, Hall 3 / Booth 315A. nical Textiles)
Twelve applications with the latest SSM technol- ◆ Assembly Winding
ogy will be showed. ◆ Air Texturing
All machines are presented for the first time in ◆ False Twist Texturing
Turkey. ◆ Sewing Thread Finish Winding

SSM announces their participation of the forthcoming Besides of the presented application, SSM offers the
ITM in Istanbul, Turkey, from June 1st to 4th. new X-Series (PSX-W/D, PWX-W and TWX-W/D)
for Dye Package Winding/Rewinding and Assembly
The Swiss based SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG, Winding as well as the well-known machines for Air
the inventor of the electronic yarn traverse system, Covering, Draw Winding, Yarn Singeing and Conven-
will continue their tradition of trend-setting with the tional Covering.
presentation of breakthrough technologies.
As the market leader in these fields, SSM enjoys an
After the successful introduction at ITMA in Milan, excellent reputation. Furthermore, SSM maintains a
SSM will show their latest technologies and inven- worldwide service network that ensures the training of
tions for the first time in Turkey. Special attention lays their customer's staff and the maximum return on
on the new XENO-platform with the enhanced customer's investments.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

DIGICONE® 2 winding algorithm, enabling a 10-20%


increase on dye package density with same dyeing SSM look forward to inspiring and exciting discus-
recipe. Furthermore, SSM GIUDICI will present their sions concerning open projects using their latest de-
new TG2 machine platform for air texturing and false- velopments.
twist texturing.
For more information about SSM solutions please
Machines for the following applications will be on contact:
display:
SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG
Neugasse 10, CH-8810 Horgen / Switzerland
March - April 2016 395
NEWS

info@ssm.ch, www.ssm.ch

Following a selected range of SSM-machines which


will be exhibited in Istanbul.

Connecting you with right


audience for strengthening

www.textileassociationindia.org
business promotion
SSM_GIUDICI_TG2-FT_300dpi
automatic false-twist texturing machine with doffer

SSM_DURO-TW_300dpi
precision package winder for technical yarns
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

SSM_XENO-YW_300dpi
precision package winder with DIGICONE® 2
396 March - April 2016
NEWS

GOTS' growth continues:


More than 840.000 workers in certified operations
New figures: The positive trend of increasing num- number is likely to reach one million when the final
bers of GOTS certified facilities continued and for figures are received.
the first time GOTS can report data on the num-
bers of workers in certified operations. "This number is a further indication of the relevance
of the Global Organic Textile Standard, in addition to
New personnel: Marcus Bruegel hands over his the number of GOTS certified operations. We will,
office to Rahul Bhajekar. with the cooperation of the independent GOTS certi-
fiers and academic research, collect and report addi-
The number of facilities certified to the Global Or- tional data in order to demonstrate GOTS' ecological
ganic Textile Standard (GOTS) kept on growing last and social impact", notes Herbert Ladwig, GOTS
year, from 3,663 facilities in 2014 to 3,814 facilities in Managing Director.
2015. GOTS is recognised worldwide as the leading
processing standard for textiles made with organic fi- Marcus Bruegel, the GOTS Technical Director has left
bres. GOTS certified facilities are now located in 68 his position February 15, 2016. Marcus was with GOTS
(63 in 2014) countries around the world. Growth is from the start and has contributed tremendously to its
evenly spread across all market segments including growth and stature. His role in the successful estab-
the mass market and the big brands. GOTS certifica- lishment of GOTS as a globally recognised label has
tion enables consumers to purchase items that are been exemplary. Acknowledging his pioneering con-
certified organic and social responsible from field to tribution, Marcus was given a fond farewell by the
finished product. GOTS family with best wishes for his future at the
Annual Meeting of GOTS on 13 February. Rahul
Countries or regions with the largest increase in GOTS Bhajekar has been appointed his successor and will be
certification in 2015 are (in rank order): India (+74), responsible for the further development and quality
Europe (+58) Turkey (+27) and Bangladesh (+21). The assurance of GOTS, including environmental and so-
Top Fifteen countries in terms of the total number of cial aspects. He has more than 21 years of experience
GOTS certified facilities are: India (1,441), Turkey in textile testing and chemical restrictions, as well as
(489), Germany (306), Bangladesh (210), China (201) in implementation of GOTS with manufacturers, pro-
Pakistan (142), Italy (141), Portugal (89), South Korea cessors and chemical companies. Rahul has been fa-
(80), Japan (65), USA (60), France (56), UK (49), miliar with GOTS since 2005 and served as a member
Austria (49), Denmark (41). of the GOTS Technical Committee for several years.
One if his first major tasks would be to spearhead
"Again, the figures show that GOTS' credible and upcoming revision of the GOTS version 4.0.
independent certification of the entire supply chain is
an important driver for the business case for For further information, please contact:
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

sustainability - in contrast to mere self-claims", says GOTS


Claudia Kersten, GOTS Marketing Director. Global Organic Textile Standard
Claudia Kersten
To date the GOTS accredited independent Certifica- Director Marketing & Finance
tion Bodies report 847,749 people working in 2,799 Representative in Germany, Austria and Switzerland
(out of the actual 3,814) GOTS certified facilities. The www.global-standard.org

March - April 2016 397


NEWS

Graf at ITM 2016 in Istanbul


Innovations in Clothings, Combs & Service ma- Graf technology also accessible for these conventional
chines combs. The combing segments made from metallic
clothings that undergo a special surface treatment,
The company Graf, located in Rapperswil near Zurich, which substantially reduces the running-in period.
is the leading manufacturer of clothings for flat cards
and roller cards. Graf will introduce several innova- The new circular comb series FlexComb, with height
tive solutions at ITM in Istanbul. adjustable geometry, a detachable spoiler and a 130°
combing surface has been developed for high-perfor-
Flexible flat clothings are mance combers of the latest generation. A short run-
one of the key compo- ning-in period thanks to the special surface treatment
nents in a carding ma- as well as efficient trash removal with optimal fibre
chine. To ensure an selection guarantees cost effectiveness.
evenly high quality of the The new circular comb series FlexComb, with height
carding sliver, they have adjustable geometry, a detachable spoiler and a 130°
to be replaced regularly. combing surface has been developed for high-perfor-
For this process the card needs to be stopped. To keep mance combers of the latest generation. A short run-
these down-times as short as possible, Graf now offers ning-in period thanks to the special surface treatment
a new flat top system, which can reduce the stoppage as well as efficient trash removal with optimal fibre
time by up to 70 %. The so-called EasyTop is applied selection guarantees cost effectiveness.
on flat bars designed for magnetic attachment. The flat
tops, equipped with a metal carrier, are attached se- In addition Graf
curely and precisely by means of a magnetic connec- will present the
tion. DABM flat strip-
ing machine for
They resist even highest carding forces and guarantee the first time in
for a high reliability in operation. The EasyTop system Istanbul. The
can be used for DABM allows
aluminium flat gentle and correct
bars with mag- removal of worn
netic attachment flexible flat clothings from the flat bars. Quick clamp-
technology from ing with pneumatic clamping device and the mainte-
all manufactur- nance-free three-phase AC motor without toothed belt
ers. EasyTop are are merely two advantages of this service machine.
available for Applicable for flat bars with working widths from 40"
working widths - 60", the DABM allows a Straight-forward and effi-
of 40", 51" and cient mechanical removal of the worn flat strips from
60" in a selection the flat bars.
of the well-
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

known and For more details please contact:


proven types of Silvano Rufo, Head Marketing
flat clothings. T +41 52 208 82 22
Business Group Components
Graf will also F +41 52 208 83 82
present new Rieter Machine Works Ltd.
products for the Klosterstrasse 20 silvano.rufo@rieter.com
combing process. The X-Comb segments can be used CH-8406 Winterthur www.premium-textile-
on comb-bodies requiring individual segments from components.com
other manufacturers and thus now make the leading

398 March - April 2016


NEWS

Indonesia's spinners to meet the perfect match for


qualityHands-on opportunities with the new
USTER®TESTER 6

When it was first exhibited publicly at ITMA in Milan


last year, USTER®TESTER 6 introduced an array of
ground-breaking new features. It represents a signifi-
cant step forward in terms of accuracy, the range of
measurements provided and the user-friendly interpre-
tation of quality data. Innovative sensor technology is
at the heart of the USTER®TESTER 6. The novel
digital CS capacitive sensor delivers its results - in-
cluding the famous CVm `USTER value´ - with un-
precedented speed and reliability.
The vibrant spinning industry of Indonesia is the per-
fect match for the USTER®TESTER 6. The world's Another vital yarn quality parameter, hairiness, is cov-
most advanced quality measuring system is the gate- ered comprehensively by the USTER®TESTER 6. The
way to Total Testing, while the integrated Assistant Q latest Sensor HL, for hairiness length classification at
support feature guides mills to the best quality and speeds of 800 m/min, complements the established
profitability choices for targeting high-end textile ap- hairiness Sensor OH. Together, they offer spinners a
plications. Agansa Primatama will demonstrate these total picture of yarn hairiness, for the first time ever.
benefits directly to the spinners at the Indo Intertex
event. Made for Indonesia
The Indo Intertex exhibition will be staged in Jakarta
"Indonesia's spinners are very ambitious. Many of the from April 27-30 with the theme 'Be Ready with More
mills are aiming to supply the high-quality market Market Opportunities Ahead'. This objective fits per-
segment," says Djendjen Halim, Director at Agansa fectly with the benefits of the new Total Testing Cen-
Primatama, one of the country's foremost agents for ter, which is incorporated in the USTER®TESTER 6.
textile machinery and technology. The route to Total Testing is through the
USTER®QUALITY EXPERT quality management
After its launch at ITMA 2015, USTER®TESTER 6 tool.
has already attracted immediate global interest - in-
cluding an order for three systems by one of Indonesia's Starting with the precision laboratory test results from
leading textile producers, Indorama Corporation. Now, USTER®TESTER 6, the system integrates in-process
the agency has arranged for the latest innovation in information from yarn clearers, which monitor 100%
yarn testing to be introduced to a wider audience of of production at the winding machines. The Total
spinners with a special presentation of the Testing Center then takes spinning mills to the next
USTER®TESTER 6 at Indo Intertex 2016 in April. stage, with detailed analysis of all the data and expert
interpretation - giving practical advice and options for
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Sensor innovations specific improvements. Importantly, this takes account


of quality requirement, so that mills can make informed
and risk-free decisions on every aspect of the yarn
manufacturing process.

A suitable slogan for the USTER®TESTER 6 might


also be 'designed for Indonesian spinners' - since many
of its new features do not require highly-trained op-
eratives: "Our customers observe that finding knowl-
edgeable staff becomes harder every year," says Halim.

March - April 2016 399


NEWS

Assistant Q is the built-in support service which solves Agansa is also able to maximize the impact of the
this problem perfectly for spinners. Backed by 65 years benefits of USTER®TESTER 6 by organizing tailored
of USTER expertise, Assistant Q checks all measure- training sessions in the local language, targeted at the
ments and proposes a checklist of solutions for any needs of both the customer and of the local market.
quality issue it finds - akin to hiring a new staff mem- Well-trained staff completes the circle for the USTER
ber with all the know-how a mill could need. Total Quality Testing concept for Indonesia - making
the ambitions of the spinning mills an achievable re-
Seeing is believing ality.
Visitors at Indo Intertex can see a live presentation of
the USTER®TESTER 6 at Agansa's booth (hall B3, Media contact:
booth no. 77-78). After the show, the motto for spin- Edith Aepli
ners will be 'Seeing is Believing' as they are invited to Senior Manager Marketing & Communication
book in for detailed tests with their own yarns at the Uster Technologies AG
Agansa HQ in Bandung. Sonnenbergstrasse 10
CH - 8610 Uster / Switzerland
"We are proud to present the USTER®TESTER 6 at Direct +41 43 366 38 80
the exhibition and later in our showroom, as we are Mobile +41 79 916 02 91
convinced that innovative solutions such as this are Fax +41 43 366 39 58
the key to a prosperous future for the textile industry E-mail edith.aepli@uster.com
in Indonesia," says Halim. www.uster.com

"15th Product-cum-Catalogue Display Show


receives overwhelming response"
Erode where 50 member-exhibitors of ITAMMA from
the area of manufacturers and traders of machines,
spare parts and components have participated in the
above show.

Shri D. Palanisamy, Chairman, Pallava Group, Erode,


inaugurating the 15th Product-cum-Catalogue Show
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Indian Textile Accessories & Machinery Manufactur-


ers' Association (ITAMMA) organized 15th Product- Mr. Mayank J. Roy, President, ITAMMA offering
Memento to the Chief Guest, Shri D. Palanisamy,
cum-Catalogue Show on 12th February, 2016 at The
Chairman, Pallava Group, Erode.
Oasis, Sathy Road, Erode, TN., where a well-known
identity from the industry, Shri D. Palanisamy, Chair-
After the successful fourteen Product-cum-Catalogue
man, Pallava Group, Erode, was the Chief Guest and
Shows of ITAMMA held at various places covering
inaugurated the Show.
each textile clusters of India, this show organized in
the textile cluster of Erode received an overwhelming
The 15th Product-cum-Catalogue Show provided an
response recording more than 750 foot falls from vari-
ideal platform to the textile industry in and around
400 March - April 2016
NEWS

ous spinning, weaving and processing industries in and Caretex Engineers


around Erode. The high number of foot fall was a Coimbatore-641 004.
result of extensive advertisement through display of Email: subbudharshan@gmail.com
hoardings at various important areas of population of Continental Engineering Industries Pvt. Ltd.
textile industries. Gandhinagar-382 028.
Email: info@continentals.in
Following ITAMMA's 50 members participated in the
Excel Industrial Gears Pvt. Ltd.
B2B-cum-Catalogue Display Show:
Mumbai-400 001.
Email: mayank_roy@hotmail.com
mjrum06@gmail.com
Gummi-Fab Industries
Ahmedabad-380 002.
Email : gummifab@gmail.com
Indo Texnology Pvt. Ltd.
Coimbatore-641 016.
Email: info@indotexnology.com
Jacobi Machinery Pvt. Ltd.
Coimbatore-641 103.
Email: jacobi@simta.com / simta@simta.com
Jogindra Industries
A section of visitors to the 15th New Delhi-110 015.
Product-cum-Catalogue Show Email: info@jogson.com
KrsnaEngimech (P) Ltd.
Adwaith Lakshmi Industries Limited Ahmedabad-382 330.
Coimbatore-641 659. Email: chandreshshah09@gmail.com
Email: info@adwaithlakshmi.in Lakshmi Ring Travellers (Cbe) Ltd.
Agarwal Engineering Works Coimbatore-641 406.
Ahmedabad-380 016. Email: sales@lrtltd.com
Email: aewagarwal@yahoo.com Mag Solvics Pvt. Ltd.
AirmaasterTecnolozies India (P) Ltd. Coimbatore-642 109.
Coimbatore-641 021. Email: marketing@magsolvics.com
Email : poorna@airmaaster.com / Naren Textile Engineers India Pvt. Ltd.
airmaaster@airmaaster.com Coimbatore-641 014.
Associated Autotex Ancillaries Pvt. Ltd. Email: gmmarketing@narenonline.com
Coimabatore-641 014. P.R. Texpro Engineering
Email : sales@autotex.net Surat-395 004.
B. Tex India Email: sales@prtexpro.in
Coimbatore-641 002. Perfect Equipment's Pvt. Ltd.
Email : btexindia94@gmail.com
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Ahmedabad-382 430.
Baskara Industries Email: sales@perfectequipments.com
Coimbatore-641 009. Pipe Agencies
Email: baskarainds@gmail.com Coimbatore-641 018.
Canalair Air Solutions Pvt. Ltd. Email: pipe.agencies@gmail.com /
Coimbatore-641 006. info@pipeagencies.in
Email: br.balan@canalair.in Poornima Enterprises
ba.joseph@canalair.in Coimbatore-641 034.
Email: poornima.naval@gmail.com

March - April 2016 401


NEWS

PrashantGamatex Pvt. Ltd. Super Tex Industries


Ahmedabad-382 445. Mumbai-400 063.
Email: gamatex@prashantgroup.com Email: supertex@vsnl.net
Precision Rubber Industries Pvt. Ltd. Swiss Service Management India Pvt. Ltd.
Mumbai-400 018. Coimbatore-641 002.
Email: divend@gmail.com Email: at.narayanan@ssm-india.in
Reshmi Industries (India) Pvt. Ltd. Techno Electronics & Instruments
Coimbatore-641 035. Coimbatore-641 021.
Email: reshmi@reshmiindustries.com Email: sales@technotesting.com /
Rishitex Engineering India Pvt. Ltd. contact@technotesting.com
Coimbatore-641 028. Tex Tech Industries (India) Pvt. Ltd.,
Email: rishitex21@gmail.com Coimbatore - 641 004.
Sakthi Associates Email: textech@textechonline.com
Coimbatore - 641 062. Tefoc Accessories,
Email: madhur@sakthiassociates.in Coimbatore - 641 045.
Sanjay Plastics & Industrial Services Email: info@tefoc.com
Kota, Rajasthan. The Commercial Combines
Email: info@sanjayplastics.com Coimbatore-641 009.
Sanmit Card Clothing India Pvt. Ltd. Email: krishnamurthiprabhu@gmail.com
Coimbatore-641 033. UnirolsAirtex
Email: info@sanmitcard.com / Coimbatore-641 062.
ram@sanmitcard.com Email: sales@unirolsairtex.com
Sakthi Textile Engineers Unirols Card Clothing India Pvt. Ltd.
Coimbatore-641 006. Coimbatore-641 033.
Email: sales@sakthitop.com Email: sales@unirolscardclothing.co.in
sundar@sakthitop.com Vetal Textiles & Electronics Pvt. Ltd.
Shree Ram Textile Coimbatore-641 014.
Ahmedabad-380 018. Email: v.sales@vetal.com
Email: textile@shreeram-group.com White & Company
SiegerSpintechEquipments Pvt. Ltd. Coimbatore-641 002.
Coimbatore-641 407. Email: vellayan@whitenco.net
Email: marketing@siegerglobal.net Rabatex Industries
Spinnova Ahmedabad - 382 430.
Coimbatore-641 012. Email: sales@rabatex.com
Email: spinnovajv@gmail.com Sri Ashwin Industries
SPI Equipments India Pvt. Ltd. Coimbatore-641 004.
Coimbatore-641 021. Email: sriashwinindustriess@gmail.com
Email: info@spinfracolor.com achu_kumaravel@rediff.com
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Spin Air Systems Coimbatore Pvt. Ltd. Vetri Engineers


Coimbatore-641 103. Coimbatore-641 004.
Email: spinaircbe@gmail.com Email: exports@vetriengineers.com
Srinivasa Textile Equipment Company
Coimbatore-641 017. The Brochures containing the details of member-par-
Email: srinivasaspikes@yahoo.com ticipants were distributed to more than 1500 expected
Sumanlal J. Shah Sons (P) Ltd. visitors.The Feed Back Forms were submitted to the
Coimbatore-641 009. member-exhibitors whose analysis is given in the at-
Email: sumanlal@sumanlal.com tachment marked as 'Annexure-I' which states that about
21 % of the exhibitors showed a satisfactory results.The
402 March - April 2016
NEWS

trend of visitors were 80% from the spinning industry; This 10th Product-cum-Catalogue Display Show was
while 12% from weaving and 8% from processing very grand success. Many of the companies received
industry. Further, the category of Executives & Senior the enquiries and some orders confirmation.
Officers were about 30%, followed by 25% Managers,
23% Technicians and 22% Traders.
'ANNEXURE-I'

INDIAN TEXTILE ACCESSORIES & MACHINERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION

15th Product-cum-Catalogue Show


Member-exhibitor Evaluation Status

Dissemination of information
Excellent Good Fairly Good Sufficient Insufficient
11 (22%) 16 (32%) 8 (16%) 4 (8%) 1 (2%)

Co-ordination at Directorate level


Excellent Good Fairly Good Sufficient Insufficient
9 (18%) 20 (40%) 6 (12%) 4 (8%) 2 (4%)

Other related services


Excellent Good Fairly Good Sufficient Insufficient
11 (22%) 18 (36%) 6 (12%) 6 (12%) 1 (2%)

Administrative arrangements
Excellent Good Fairly Good Sufficient Insufficient
9 (18%) 21 (42%) 6 (12%) 2 (4%) 2 (4%)

Technical Support arrangements


Excellent Good Fairly Good Sufficient Insufficient
10 (20%) 18 (36%) 6 (12%) 2 (4%) 2 (4%)

Overall evaluation of the Show


Excellent Good Fairly Good Sufficient Insufficient
8 (16%) 21 (42%) 8 (16%) 3 (6%) 1 (2%)
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Textile Association (India) Visit us on


www.textileassociationindia.org

Follow us on

March - April 2016 403


NEWS

ITM 2016 -
Most important dynamic
exhibition of textile industry
ITM 2016 International Textile Machinery Exhibi- Sales for ITM 2016 completed
tion and concurrent HIGHTEX 2016 International Money traffic in the world causes industries region-
Technical Textile & Nonwoven Trade Fair expected ally either to rally or to restrain. It is anticipated that
to attract 1200 exhibitors and more than 60.000 the2016-2017 season will be extremely positive for
visitors from 72 countries, will be held at Tuyap the region. The depreciation of EU, particularly in the
Fair Convention and Congress Center on June 1-4. Euro region, against dollar compared to previous years
will further highlight Euro as an exporter. It will also
lead Europe to cut down purchases from the Far East.
Lately, IMF has raised its forecast of growth of Tur-
key in 2016 from 3.2 to 3.8. The clearest indicator for
this is the strong demand in ITM 2016. Sales for ITM
2016, the largest edition since it's foundation / ever,
have been concluded by April. Strategic importance of
Turkey in textile and apparel has a great share in the
increase in the number of exhibitors. ITM 2016, grow-
ing by 55% compared to ITM 2015, has further in-
creased interest.

All eyes and ears will be on Istanbul


At ITM 2016 Exhibition during which latest textile
Latest technologies nationally developed in textile machinery and technologies will be presented, all eyes
machinery industry will be debuted at ITM 2016 Ex- and ears of the textile world will be on Istanbul. Grow-
hibitors from 72 countries will meet more than 60.000 ing with the strong demand for participation, ITM 2016
visitors during the exhibition that will be the most will be a meeting point for both domestic and foreign
important dynamic of the textile industry in 2016. Being manufacturers and exporters. Turkey, the most signifi-
held with the partnership of TUYAP and TEKNIK cant market for textile machinery manufacturers, stands
FUARCILIK and support by TEMSAD in 12 halls out in the conjunctional structure of the world. Being
with the participation of 1200 manufacturing compa- organized under the motto: "Textile Exhibitions are
nies, ITM 2016 Exhibition and HIGHTEX Interna- held in the Land of Textile" since 2004, ITM Exhibi-
tional Technical Textile & Nonwoven Trade Fair will tions have become an important brand for Turkey and
be the largest gathering for textile technologies, which the surrounding countries. ITM 2016 bearing a signifi-
Turkey and the region have hosted so far. cant added value for our country, will be an outstand-
ing exhibition preferred by world's textile machinery
Istanbul, the heart of the world; ITM 2016, the manufacturers.
address for textile industry
ITM 2016 International Textile Machinery Exhibition Worldwide Promotional Activities
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

is held in Istanbul, one of the world's most strategic ITM Exhibitions gain worldwide attraction with its
locations in geographical terms, will be a meeting point visitors as well aswith its exhibitors. In addition to
for all the industry representatives. Istanbul, the West's local textile manufacturers showing keen interest, each
doors to the East and the East's doors to the West has exhibition is also visited by purchasing committees,
a position as the centre of textile industry. ITM 2016 groups of investors and professional visitors from all
where brands intending to become one of the actors in over the world. Particularly at 2013 Exhibitions, be-
the world market will exhibit their innovative technol- sides the neighboring countries, visitors from textile-
ogy investments and new products will be the address investing regions in the world such as Bangladesh,
for textile industry in 2016. Vietnam, Indonesia, Iran, Egypt, Uzbekistan,
Turkmenistan and Africadrew attention. An increased
404 March - April 2016
NEWS

number of visitors from Europe and Asia, particularly at Istanbul Tuyap Fair Convention and Congress Cen-
Iran and countries, is expected for the ITM 2016 Ex- ter on June 1-4, 2016. At HIGHTEX 2016 Exhibition,
hibition. In this direction, worldwide promotional the first and only event in its field, raw materials for
meetings and press conferences have been organized technical textiles, intermediary and final products and
for ITM 2016 Exhibition. Activities are still running production technologies will be seen together. The fact
anywhere from Europe to Far East, from USA to Af- that HIGHTEX 2016 Exhibition, the largest gather for
rica. technical textiles in the Middle East and Eastern Eu-
rope, will be concurrently held with ITM 2016 Exhi-
HIGHTEX 2016 will be held simultaneously bition will create a highly positive and efficient syn-
HIGHTEX 2016, the 6th International Technical Tex- ergy.
tile and Nonwoven Trade Fair,will be held in Hall 11

ITM Istanbul - Stäubli at the ITM 2016


In about a month, the biannual ITM trade fair for tex- LX Jacquard machine for exquisite flat fabrics,
tile industrials is opening its doors in Istanbul. Stäubli terry cloth and technical fabrics
is ready for this event and welcomes its customers and This machine was successfully launched at last year's
all other interested parties to Booth 217 in Hall 2. ITMA in Milan. At the ITM, visitors will see it dem-
onstrated with Stäubli harnesses. Built with uncom-
The Turkish weaving market has long been amongst promising high-quality materials and designed to per-
Stäubli's most important markets. Anticipating rising form with utmost precision at very high speeds, The
demand and the growing importance of the Turkish LX Jacquard machine allows mills to weave sophisti-
textile industry, Stäubli invested in a fully owned sub- cated fabrics for virtually any application - from
sidiary in Istanbul back in the mid-90s. colourful African damask to automobile airbags.

Stäubli's sales and technical teams cover the whole Dobbies and cam motions
country, from Istanbul to Kayseri and Gaziantep, closely The third generation of Stäubli's rotary dobbies, the
collaborating with customers as long-term partners. S3060/3260 series, can be seen with many application
These relationships are beneficial for both Stäubli and examples at the Stäubli stand and the booths of many
its customers. As an industry partner, Stäubli constantly other weaving machine manufacturers. This new gen-
analyses customers' most important needs and inte- eration of rotary dobbies reaches new heights of per-
grates solutions to them in the development of its new formance and reliability.
products. Working in this way, Stäubli offers an exten-
sive machinery range that perfectly meets weavers'
expectations and offers mills increased advantages in
terms of reliability, long service life and versatility in
application.

◆ Shedding solutions for frame weaving machines


(cam motions, electronic dobbies)

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

High-speed Jacquard machines with customer-


specific harnesses
◆ Automated weaving preparation machines (for
drawing in and warp tying)
◆ Carpet and technical textiles weaving machines
◆ Knitting solutions and drive systems

Amongst the products being exhibited at the ITM are: S3060 rotary dobby

Weaving preparation systems


Today, thousands of weaving mills around the world
March - April 2016 405
NEWS

rely on the automatic drawing-in machinery from


Switzerland. At the ITM, weavers can see the recently
launched SAFIR S60 drawing in a 100% cotton warp
sheet (8,173 ends) with Ne 80/2 threads into 16 heald
frames (steel J-shaped end loops), drop wires, and reed
with a density 200 dents/10cm.

LX electronic Jacquard machine

Automatic toe-closing device for circular knitting


machines
A recent innovation, the D4S automatic toe-closing
device, will be presented on a circular sock knitting
machine. Also at the booth will be a variety of servo
motors, electronic control solutions, input/output de-
vices and related programming tools used mainly in
the textile industry.
Original Stäubli spare parts - with a dedicated area
at the booth
Stäubli supplies a full range of original-quality spare
SAFIR S60 drawing-in machine with operator parts to ensure the longest service life of its machines.
Customers can easily manage and handle their replace-
A TOPMATIC warp-tying machine will demonstrate ment parts needs using Stäubli's convenient interactive
high-efficiency warp tying. This proven machine is spare parts catalogue.
designed for standard applications and handles even Visit Stäubli's Booth 217 in Hall 2
the finest yarns. Everyone is cordially invited to visit the Stäubli booth,
see the products on display and discuss their needs
Carpet weaving systems and wishes with Stäubli specialists.
The Stäubli business unit "Schönherr carpet systems"
will showcase sophisticated carpet samples. These … and more
samples illustrate technological advances such as the Additional examples of Stäubli products can be seen
recently introduced Magic Shadow Effect, the tradi- during the ITM at various stands of Stäubli partners in
tional carpet effect and other high-density applications. various applications with Jacquard machines, dobbies
and cam motions.

ADVERTISEMENT INDEX
A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. A-3 Precision Rubber Ind. Pvt. Ltd. A-8
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Birla Cellulose Cover 2 Reliance Industries Ltd. Cover 1

India ITME A-2 Rieter India Ltd. A-1

Journal of the Textile Association A-7 Rieter India Ltd. (Copmponents) A-5

Kothari Textile Industries A-6 Unitech Techmech Cover 4

Lakshmi Machine Works Cover3 World Textile Conference 2 A-4

406 March - April 2016


NEWS

LIVA - A new fashion ideology collaborates with


Fashion Industry
LIVA partners FDCI at AIFW to reach fashion de- Liva gives an opportunity to designers to explore them-
signer fraternity selves because it is really fluid. It enables them to use
Amazon India Fashion Week,New Delhi - 16th to 20th their creativity in whatever way they like. LIVA fab-
March 2016 rics are ready for Fashion Industry with "Ready to
dye/print" which have exceptional fluidity, & a natural
base which is driven by fashion.

Quality, innovation and service are three main mantras


for LIVA to excel. The brand LIVA is already tied up
with 22 major brands and more are planned for the
coming season. The AIFW, Delhi being a huge plat-
form for the fashion fraternity, the participation of LIVA
as the official partner revolves around 3 main objec-
tives.

Liva gives an opportunity to designers to explore them-


selves because it is really fluid. It enables them to use
Mr. Samuel interacting with Designer their creativity in whatever way they like. LIVA fab-
Rohit Bal outside LIVA Lounge rics are ready for Fashion Industry with "Ready to
dye/print" which have exceptional fluidity, & a natural
Fashion is a creative self-expression that prevails in a base which is driven by fashion.
flexible society. Right from Fashionistas to local cloth-
ing arenas, all are influenced by the Fashion trends, 1. Liva fabrics for Fashion Industry - Availability of
artistic curations and inspirational designs. Fashion ready to dye /print which have exceptional fluid-
Designers are always looking at innovations in fabrics ity are nature based and driven by fashion.
and fibers as to what new things they can create. Fash- 2. Promote Availability of Liva fabric in small com-
ion Design Council of India - FDCI provides the per- mercial quantities through LIVA partners - Liva
fect platform for representing, nurturing, promoting has tied up with two retail partners in New Delhi,
and getting extraordinary fashion talents to the fore. Surat, Kolkata, Ahmedabad, and Hyderabad for
LIVA's participation as the official partner in the smooth supply.
Amazon India Fashion Week in New Delhi is an en- 3. Showcase Liva SS 16 '& AW '15collections - LIVA
deavor to bridge this gap and reach to the fashion has many attractions for brand & fashion con-
designer fraternity scious youth. LIVA SS and AW collections of-
fers 200 fabrics in each season designed in con-
junction with WGSN, International Design Con-
sultants and LIVA, led by global brands.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Market research with designers, retailers and consum-


ers has shown exceptional potential for designer wear.

"Here at Fashion Week, we are connecting with all


designers to resolve the challenge of design worth fabric
availability. We shared our solutions with them," said,
Manohar Samuel, President, Marketing & Business
Development, Birla Cellulose.
L to R: Mr. Manohar Samuel, Mr. Dilip Gaur, Mr. Rajeev
Gopal, Mr. Sunil Sethi& Mr. Ritesh Khandelwal
March - April 2016 407
NEWS

The shortlisted designers represented a range of unique


styles and talents with each of them having their own
masterpieces to showcase on the final day. Birla Cel-
lulose has even sponsored a 'Natural Fibre Chair' at
National Institute of Designing (NID) Ahmedabad. In
addition to this, the company offers internship to 15
fashion students every year.

Eco & Sustainable fashion has come to the forefront


in the last few years, however for Birla Cellulose;
sustainability is all about meeting present needs with-
out compromising the ability of future generations to
meet their own needs. It is heartening to know that
Birla Cellulose works towards this goal at every step
Mr.Manohar Samuel with designer of their existence.
Narendra Kumar and others
Birla Cellulose is a collaborative partner for sustain-
"Fashion Design Council of India - FDCI and Amazon able business across the chain and work with leading
Fashion Week provides the setup to collaborate with global brands on sustainability programs. Brand, Liva,
extraordinary fashion talent," he added. "LIVA Accred- which promises natural fluid fashion & high quality
ited Partner Forum has really grown and is catering fabrics, is made using natural cellulosic fibres which
many domestic brands fueling manufacturing in India. are produced from wood pulp, a natural renewable
The growth is very encouraging. We are collaborating resource. The pulp used is from trees which are spe-
with designer's community in several ways. We con- cifically grown for this purpose i.e. more new trees
nect with top designers at event like Amazon Fashion are planted than trees are cut. It gives the earth a much-
Week, other fashion shows and young designers through needed green cover, saves 6-7 times more land in
our event "LIVA Protégé' informed Mr. Samuel. comparison to cotton, and saves 3-4 times more water
than usual.
According to Mr. Manohar Samuel, "As one of the
largest textile and fashion conglomerates in the coun- The information contained in this electronic commu-
try we believe that Indian fashion landscape is ex- nication is intended solely for the individual(s) or entity
tremely dynamic and its talent pool rich and diverse. to which it is addressed. It may contain proprietary,
LIVA is a new age natural fabric and has been ac- confidential and/or legally privileged information. Any
cepted well by the textile value chain." review, retransmission, dissemination, printing, copy-
ing or other use of, or taking any action in reliance on
In an effort to connect with the young budding fashion the contents of this information by person(s) or enti-
talent LIVA had provided a platform called LIVA ties other than the intended recipient is strictly prohib-
Protégé. In its first edition, Liva Protégé 2015, a pan ited and may be unlawful. If you have received this
India designer hunt for recognizing India's future stars communication in error, please notify us by respond-
in the field of fashion covered over 12 cities, top 50 ing to this email or telephone and immediately and
fashion institutes and touching more than a hundred permanently delete all copies of this message and any
students across India. Liva Protégé was powered by
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

attachments from your system(s).


Liva - a new-age fabric, from the house of Birla Cel-
lulose, designed to infuse incredible fluidity into gar- The contents of this message do not necessarily repre-
ments. It aimed to tap into the great Indian talent pool sent the views or policies of Aditya Birla Group.
and ensure that promising fashion designers. Liva Computer viruses can be transmitted via email. Aditya
Protégé 2015 celebrated upcoming trend and style to Birla Group Companies attempts to sweep e-mails and
recognize innovation and breakthrough talent on a attachments for viruses, it does not guarantee that ei-
national scale. The finalists belong to India's top fash- ther are virus free. The recipient should check this
ion schools, namely, NIFT, Pearl, BD Somani, NID email and any attachments for the presence of viruses.
and Raffles. Aditya Birla Group does not accept any liability for
any damage sustained as a result of viruses.
408 March - April 2016
NEWS

Visitors at the LIVA Lounge Designer Abhijeet Khanna at the LIVA Lounge

Management Succession at
Uster Technologies Ltd.
Thomas Nasiou will take over the position as CEO of "The Board of Directors of Uster Technologies and
Uster Technologies as of April 1st, 2016. Dr. Geoffrey Toyota Industries Corporation are pleased that, with
Scott and Philip Mosimann will become Co-Chairmen the new management organization, the long term con-
of the Board of Directors. Koichi Ito joins the USTER tinuity and success of Uster Technologies is secured.
Board of Directors succeeding Susumu Toyoda. With Thomas Nasiou a strong internal successor as
CEO is in charge, and with the support of Dr. Geoffrey
As previously communicated, Thomas Nasiou will Scott as a Co-Chairman, knowledgeable and dedicated
assume the role of CEO (Chief Executive Officer) for leadership continues in the best interest for the com-
the new financial year starting onApril 1st, 2016. This pany and its customers", says Philip Mosimann, Chair-
follows a planned transition and handover of respon- man of the Board of Directors of Uster Technologies.
sibilities from Dr. Geoffrey Scott who will remain as
a member of the Board of Directors. For further information please contact:

In order to ensure the most effective operation of the Edith Aepli


Board, the Board of Directors has decided to appoint Senior Manager Marketing & Communication
Philip Mosimann and Dr. Geoffrey Scott to the roles Uster Technologies AG
of Co-Chairmen. Sonnenbergstrasse 10
8610 Uster
From April 1st, Koichi Ito also joins the Board of Switzerland
Uster Technologies. Koichi Ito is the new Head of the Direct: +41 43 366 38 80
Textile Machinery Division of Toyota Industries Cor- Mobile: +41 79 916 02 91
poration, succeeding Susumu Toyoda who has been Fax: +41 43 366 39 58
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

promoted to a new position in Toyota Motor Corpora- edith.aepli@uster.com


tion. Susumu Toyoda will leave the USTER Board as www.uster.com
of April 1st.

Open your business to the world's


largest professional network.
March - April 2016 409
NEWS

Manufacturing PA6 BCF


specialties more profitably
At this year's DOMOTEX Asia / CHINAFLOOR yarns with fine single filament titers are increasingly in
trade show, OerlikonNeumag presented its diverse demand. The rea-sons for this are generally believed to
range of products and services in Hall W3, Stand be the extremely low price of oil and the newly-estab-
H01. The international trade met in Shanghai at the lished PA6 capacities in Asia, causing a price fall of
Asia-Pacific region's most important trade show for approx. 30% for PA6 granulate in the last six months
flooring between March 22 and 24. The focus of the alone. "The current market conditions particularly in
OerlikonNeumag stand was on solutions for the effi- China have resulted in low prices for PA6.
cient manufacture of carpet yarns.
In turn, this has created an extremely interesting new
The exemplary success of the S+ BCF system over many market for high-quality carpets. Our systems are particu-
years clearly shows that there is also a fo-cus on effi- larly well-positioned in the premium-price segment, which
ciency in BCF yarn manufacturing. Since being launched explains the currently stronger interest in our systems
in 2011, the S+ is the world's big-gest-selling BCF sys- especially within the Chinese market", comments Alfred
tem, efficiently manufacturing high-end BCF yarns across Czaplinski, Sales Manager BCF.
the globe.
Domotex Hanover, Germany, as a promising herald
The S+ offers superlative performance in terms of of things to come
efficiency OerlikonNeumag was also satisfied with the four lively
The three-end S+ convinces not just with its 99% effi- trade fair days in Hanover in the middle of January. With
ciency and its resulting cost savings in terms of raw order contracts in the tens of millions of euros signed -
materials, it also covers a very broad spectrum of pro- predominantly within the Euro-pean, US-American and
ducible total titers ranging from 700 to 4000 dtex. Fur- Chinese markets - the volume of orders received within
thermore, the multipolymer systems can be used without the context of the Domotex show in Hanover was unex-
modifications to process all polymers, from polyester and pectedly good.
polypropylene all the way through to
polytrimethyleneterephthalic (PTT). The product program Partnering for Performance
is complemented by the single-end Sytec One, which is In addition to the machinery portfolio, Oerlikon Manmade
convincing particularly in the specialties segment with Fibers Segment will also be showcasing its expanded
its superlative yarn quality and high degree of flexibility. range of services under its 'Partnering for Performance'
motto. With high-performance local operations in China,
Trend towards high-end yarns with fine filament ti- our Customer Service offers customer not only fast pro-
ters vision of original OEM-quality parts, it also supports its
Chinese customers with maintenance, repairs, training
sessions and seminars, process consultation and numer-
ous additional services. This guarantees that yarn
manufac-turers are able to profitably operate their sys-
tems in the long term.
With regards to process optimization, Industrie 4.0 solu-
tions will soon also be available as a retrofit package for
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

already installed systems


For further information please contact:
Rickey Steele
Marketing and Corporate Communications
Tel. +49 4321 305 579 Fax +49 4321 305 368
rickey.steele@oerlikon.com
OerlikonNeumag BCF S+ RoTac3
André Wissenberg
Due to consumer behavior in the flooring segment, the
Marketing and Corporate Communications
Asian market has to date been considered a small market
Tel. +49 2191 67 2331 Fax +49 2191 28 447 2331
with a strong focus on contract products. However, there
andre.wissenberg@oerlikon.com
seems to be turnaround taking place here: high-end PA6
410 March - April 2016
NEWS

Morarjee Textiles buys


first Zinser 72 manufactured in India
quality standards, has decided in favour of the new
Zinser 72 ring spinning machine and the new
ZinserSpeed 5A from our Indian manufacturing plant,"
says Mr. Ralph Knecht of SaurerZinser.

Renowned for its exquisite quality


The glorious history of Morarjee Textiles dates back
to its establishment in 1871. Today the company is a
global leader in the production of very fine cotton
fabrics. It spins over 1,000 tonnes of high-grade cotton
yarn annually in counts ranging from Ne 70s to Ne 2/
200s. All of this yarn is processed in the company to
The first Zinser 72 machine to be manufactured in
create high-quality fabrics and fashion garments for
the new Zinser plant in India was ordered shortly
customers that include exclusive fashion houses in
prior to ITMA 2015 by the traditional Indian tex-
Europe and the USA.
tile company Morarjee Textiles. Production com-
menced in the plant in Vadodara, in the state of
"We operate in premium segments and are renowned
Gujarat, in mid-September.
among our customers for exquisite quality," explains
Mr. Harsh Piramal of Morarjee Textiles. "When mak-
Morarjee Textiles has ordered a fully automated
ing an investment we consider very carefully what is
production line from the German textile machin-
best for our clients?SaurerZinser creates quantifiable
ery manufacturer.
added value for us and our customers." All the ma-
chines ordered have Saurer's E3 label denoting triple
It comprises seven brand-new ZinserSpeed 5A ma-
added value in the energy, economics and ergonomics
chines each with 160 spindles in 220 gauge, 22
categories.
ZinserImpact 72 machines with 1,824 spindles each
and 22 Autoconer 6, type V package winders.
For more details please contact:
Birgit Jansen
Recognition with the Golden Zinser Spindle
Expert Communication Ring Spinning
To recognise the first customer of the new plant, Mr.
Schlafhorst
Ashok Juneja, Head of Sales & Service (India), and
Zweigniederlassung der
Mr. Ralph Knecht, General Manager of Ring spinning,
Saurer Germany GmbH & Co. KG
presented the Golden Zinser Spindle to Mr.Harsh
Carlstrasse 60
Piramal, Vice-Chairman, and Mr. R. K. Rewari, Man-
52531 Übach-Palenberg
aging Director of Morarjee Textiles.
Germany
T + 49 2451 905 2875
"We are proud that this Indian textile company, which
birgit.jansen@saurer.com
is steeped in tradition and manufactures to the highest
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

www.saurer.com

WE Promote your business


to the right target
Visit : wwwtextileassociationindia.org
March - April 2016 411
NEWS

New Autoconer 6 enhanced in E3


The Autoconer 6 was delivered to the first custom- SmartCycle is the new, intelligent upper and lower
ers at the beginning of the year. With its yarn endpick-up function in which the winding unit,
groundbreaking innovations, Schlafhorst's new the Informator, the suction system and the doffer
automatic package winder caused a global sensa- cooperateoptimally and are self-adjusting. The flow-
tion- "The best original ever". The German textile optimised suction tube makes an effective contribu-
machinery manufacturer has presented the tion toenergysaving too: in one customer's mill, the
Autoconer6 - in a brand-new version geared to E³ vacuum could be reduced by 20-25 mbar while retain-
- to the general public at ITMA 2015. E³ is synony- ing a reliableupper yarn end pick-up.
mous withtriple added value in the energy, econom-
ics and ergonomics categories. Economics
2 x 6 % more productivity
Energy The new Autoconer 6
Energy consumption reduced by 20 % also achieves a double-
digit increase in produc-
tivity. Even the basic
model is 6 %more pro-
ductive than its predeces-
sor. LaunchControl
boasts the latest process
intelligence for a slip-
free,self-optimised start-
up. Higher acceleration
and faster deceleration of
the winding system are
possibleusingthe innova-
tive Eco-Drum-Drive System. The advantage is obvi-
ous: the Autoconer 6 winds faster at maximumspeed
A string of unique innovations has enabled Schlafhorst and can be decelerated later.
to reduce the energy consumption of the Autoconer
6by up to 20 % compared with its predecessor. A key Non-stop productivity is the distinctive feature of the
contributory element here is the new Eco-Drum-Drive new generation of machines. In combination with
System in the self adjusting winding unit. Thanks to thenew suction tube, SmartCycle cuts unproductive
the latest drive and bearing technology, the Eco-Drum- cycle times. Upper yarn faults are reduced as far
Drive System saves a considerable amount of energy. aspossible, while optimized cycle sequences minimise
In addition, the suction system motor and downtimes. TensionControl, the standard yarn
frequencyinverter always work at the most effective tensioncontrol system on the Autoconer 6, prevents
operating point due to improved performance efficiency. unnecessary tension breaks during bobbin unwinding.
Togenerate further energy savings on the spot by Allthesefactors signify higher efficiency ratings and
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

optimising the winding process, the energy consump- productivity right from the start.
tion atany moment can be monitored online centrally
at the Informator. The Autoconer 6 can be equipped With the technologically optimised, high-performance
with thenew Energy Monitoring facility for this. Speedster FX module and the new SmartJet
functionwith which the doffer supports the upper yarn
SmartCycle and the new intelligent vacuum adjust- search, another 6 % productivity can also be gained
ment system work together according to the "power optionally.In practical tests with the SmartJet function,
ondemand" principle, i.e. creating a vacuum as required. the doffer aids the upper yarn search so effectively
This lightens the energy demand in the winding that "red lightperiods" are reduced by up to 70 %.That's
millsignificantly between yarn end pick-up cycles. 12 % more productivity in all - a unique leap forward.

412 March - April 2016


NEWS

Ergonomics The SmartSplicer will splice all common standard,


Intelligence inside compact and blended yarns. For extreme strength and
Intelligent sensor tech- aneven better appearance, especially for denim, linen
nology and smart pro- and OE yarns, the SmartSplicer Injection is used.
cess control turn the TheSmartSplicer Thermo is recommended for wool
Autoconer 6 into an and wool-blend yarns, while for elastic core
automatic package yarnsSchlafhorst offers the SmartSplicerElasto. The
winder that pushes the splicers are supplied ready for use and can be adjusted
textile-technology lim- veryeasily in a few simple steps if required and ad-
its outwards of its own justed to the process reliably.
accord and winds at the
mostproductivesettings Leading automation solutions
virtually without any The Autoconer 6 has the most intelligent material flow
operator input. The system in the world. Schlafhorst offers its
functional design and customersautomation solutions that lead the way in
optimised process se- every respect. With VarioReserve, Intelligent Bobbin
quences minimise Sharing,HighSpeed Feeding and various automation
downtimes and mal- units, Schlafhorst ensures profit-enhancing process
functions, so that manual intervention by the staff is reliability andminimal reliance on personnel in every
practically unnecessary.Smart electronics and mechani- spinning mill. A new standard has also been created
cal innovations complement one another in this de- for theAutoconer 6, type RM machine with its unique
sign. new circular magazine and the 9+1 bobbin feed con-
cept.
Autocalibration of the splicer feeders and suction tubes
relieves the burden on the operators The superb, convenient package handling of the
substantially,because manual settings are rendered su- Autoconer 6 is especially important for automation
perfluous. The X-Change doffer assumes additional purposes. The X-Change doffer has no equal with its
functions too:with Tube Check it detects tubes that are innovative empty tube strategy and practical multitube
not round via laser and removes them automatically. handling. In Teaching Mode it learns to distinguish
This notonlyenhances the package quality, it increases between tubes autonomously, and starts up automati-
staff safety. And it effectively aids the upper yarn search cally leading position in automation.The various ma-
withSmart-Jet, meaning that operator intervention is chine types (RM, D, T and V) permit the automation
rarely required. of individual stages in every spinningmill.

Even the time- and labour-intensive consumption mea- Added value in downstream processing: Schlafhorst
surements for optimising the energy utilisation quality packages
ofprocesses are no longer required on the new The Autoconer package is the benchmark for quality
Autoconer 6. The integrated Energy Monitoring and and added value in downstream processing. Theperfect
the newoperating console supply all the information interaction between the new standard yarn tension
needed for conserving energy at a glance. control system Tension Control, the unwinding accel-
erator, the new Eco-Drum-Drive System, effective elec-
Smarter splicing
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

tronic anti-patterning and optionally the new gate


Once again the Autoconer 6 sets the benchmark in tensioner or the disc tensioner produces a package
splicing with the new SmartSplicer model family. density of unsurpassed uniformity.
Itscompletely revised splicer geometry ensures the best
splice quality in every application with the The Autoconer 6 introduces reliability and quality into
simplesthandling. The splicing parameters can be en- the production of process-optimised packages through
tered conveniently at the Informator. The system a broad range of package formats: cylindrical and ta-
guaranteesspliced joints that are identical with the yarn, pered up to 5057', with traverse widths from 3" to
maximum strength, outstanding dyeing results and full 6".Packages with a diameter of up to 326 mm can be
addedvalue in downstream processing. produced on the Autoconer. It goes without saying that
aprecisely measured yarn length is achieved for all
March - April 2016 413
NEWS

package formats. will please customers of Schlafhorst. Once again they


willbe adecisive step ahead of the competition.
FX high-performance technology components
For spinning mills that want to design their winding For more details please contact:
process to be more efficient and geared to added value, Heike Scheibe
Schlafhorst offers the innovative FX high-performance Expert Communication Winding
components. The Autotense FX, Variotense FX,Propack Schlafhorst
FX, Variopack FX, Ecopack FX, Speedster FX and Zweigniederlassung der
PreciFX modules hugely boost productionperformance Saurer Germany GmbH & Co. KG
and raise quality, productivity and cost-efficiency to Carlstrasse 60
the most advanced level, both inwindingand in down- 52531 Übach-Palenberg
stream processing. Germany
T + 49 2451 905 2847
The best original ever: just a year after its market heike.scheibe@saurer.com
launch, the Autoconer 6 continues to raise the bar in www.saurer.com
thewinding mill with its brand new functions. That

Novibra Introduces New Spindles and


Clamping Crowns at ITM
Improving Performance in Spinning Mills
Another product presented at ITM is the clamping and
cutting crown CROCOdoff, which will also be avail-
able as the version CROCOdoff Forte for coarse yarns.
The crown is operated by the spindle speed and allows
an automatic doffing. The improved design of the
"teeth" guarantees a reliable clamping and cutting of
the yarn. In addition the CROCOdoff reduces the risk
of yarn breakage during start-up, decreases energy
consumption, minimises material loss and reduces
maintenance. CROCOdoff is suitable for the use with
new machines as well as an upgrade for some old
machines.
Spindle_with_CROCOdoff
For more details please contact:
Novibra, located in Boskovice, Czech Republic, is the SilvanoRufo, Head Marketing
leading company in spindle technology and the big- T +41 52 208 82 22
gest exporter of spindles worldwide. Novibra will in- Business Group Components
troduce innovative solutions for spinning mills at the F +41 52 208 83 82
ITM in Istanbul. Spindles in modern ring spinning Rieter Machine Works Ltd.
Klosterstrasse 20 silvano.rufo@rieter.com
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

machines reach speeds of up to 25,000 rpm. In these


high-speed applications energy consumption is an CH-8406 Winterthur
important issue. Novibra is now introducing LENA www.premium-textile-components.com
(Low Energy consumption and Noise Absorption) high-
speed spindles. Well proven Noise Absorbing System Texttreasure
Assembly (NASA) ensures minimum neck bearing
load, vibration and noise level at high speed, and in It is not the strongest nor most intelligent
combination with unique wharve diameter 17, 5 mm species that survives, but the one most adapt-
and footstep bearing 3 mm diameter leads in lower able to change.
energy consumption. LENA is designed for tube lengths - Charles Darwin.
of 200 mm to 210 mm.
414 March - April 2016
NEWS

Expansion of manmade fibers business


Oerlikon acquires Truetzschler's staple fiber tech- gies within the manmade fibers industry. In 2015, the
nology portfolio and becomes leader in staple fi- produced staple fibers amounted to 18.5 million tons,
bers market. or some 33 % of the total synthetic fibers capacity.
Synthetic staple fibers are produced by the main con-
Oerlikon announced today that it has signed an version steps: polymer production, spinning further
agreement to acquire the entire staple fibers tech- down to baling. The liquid polymer is either produced
nology portfolio of Trützschler Nonwovens & Man- in a polycondensation plant or polymer chips are melted
Made Fibers GmbH, Egelsbach, Germany. This in an extrusion line. Staple fibers are made from dif-
company is part of the German Truetzschler Group, ferent polymers, including: polyester, polypropylene,
which is a specialist in fiber preparation for the polyamide, recycled materials (rPET) or renewable
yarn spinning and nonwovens industries. The ac- polymers (such as polylactic acid, PLA). Those fibers
quisition expands the Manmade Fibers Segment's are used in various applications such as apparels, non-
technology portfolio and opens up access to new woven fabric production, reinforcement, filling, insu-
customers in the market for synthetic staple fibers. lation and further special applications.

Oerlikon is strengthening its technology and market Georg Stausberg, CEO of Oerlikon's Manmade Fibers
position in its core business areas by taking advantage Segment commented: "The former Fleissner staple
of the ongoing consolidation in the chemical fibers fibers technology portfolio of Trützschler Nonwovens
market, which was triggered by the market downturn & Man-Made Fibers GmbH is an ideal fit for our
in China. With the acquisition of the former Fleissner business. It enhances our existing technology offering
staple fibers technology portfolio and the intellectual and broadens our service business. Furthermore, it
property (IP) of Trützschler Nonwovens & Man-Made opens up attractive business opportunities with key
Fibers GmbH, the Segment becomes the leading tech- customers in that field. Combining the staple fibers
nology and equipment provider in the global staple process solutions and key components of both compa-
fibers market. The acquisition expands the Manmade nies will enable us to increase customer value through
Fibers Segment's staple fibers technology expertise and developing further innovations. In addition, we will be
broadens the Segment's customer base and service able to offer the entire range of customer services for
business in the respective areas. As staple fibers projects all installed machines and plants of the former Fleissner
are increasingly tied to continuous polycondensation staple fibers technologies."
facilities, already now the Manmade Fibers Segment
is well positioned to operate as a provider of complete For further information, please contact:
solutions. Both parties have agreed not to disclose Nicolas Weidmann
details of the transaction. Truetzschler Group is dis- Head of Group Communications
continuing its staple fiber business as it has decided to Tel +41 58 360 96 02 Fax +41 58 360 98 02
focus on its core business activities. pr@oerlikon.com
www.oerlikon.com
Dr. Roland Fischer, CEO of the Oerlikon Group, said: Andreas Schwarzwälder
"The acquisition of the staple fibers technology port- Head of Investor Relations
folio of Truetzschler is another important step in line Tel +41 58 360 96 22 Fax +41 58 360 98 22
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

with our strategy to strengthen our position outside the ir@oerlikon.com


filament business, where we occupy a leading technol- www.oerlikon.com
ogy and market position. The ongoing consolidation in
the chemical fibers market presents interesting oppor- Texttreasure
tunities and we are taking this step to ensure that the
Manmade Fibers Segment will merge stronger from I much prefer the sharpest criticism of a
the current market weakness and profit from the posi- single intelligent man to the thoughtless
tive long-term market perspectives." approval of the masses.
- Johannes Kepler
Staple fibers technology is one of the core technolo-
March - April 2016 415
NEWS

Presentation of innovations by all three


Rieter business groups
Presentation of innovations by all three Rieter busi- Details on outlook
ness groups; implementation of STEP UP improve- While the order intake trend for both business groups
ment program; details on outlook for 2015 Components and After Sales is pleasing, the market
for new machinery at the business group Machines &
During today's "investors' day" at the ITMA in Milan, Systems is ata low level. This trend is due to spinning
Rieter will be describing the progress made in the mills' low margins as well as uncertainty in the indi-
focusing on the strategic priorities. These are concerned vidual sales markets.
with the enhancement of innovativeness, the expan-
sion of services and the increase in the profitability of Owing to the positive dynamics in the business groups
the group. For the purpose of achieving the mid-term Components and After Sales and a scheduled order
targets, the STEP UP improvement program announced book delivery in the business group Machines & Sys-
in October last year is being implemented. tems, Rieter is expecting for the whole of 2015 sales
of around 1 billion CHF, operative profitability (EBIT)
Innovations around 7 percent and a net profit of between 4 and 5
The Machines & Systems business group will be dis- percent of sales.
playing the new E 36 / E 86 combing set, which offers
a significant increase in productivity. The enlarged R Presentation materials
66 rotor spinning machine with improved S 66 spin A complete set of presentation materials is available
box and the optimized air-jet spinning machine with with this media release at www.rieter.com (http://
the Polyester option P 26 will also be presented. The www.rieter.com/en/rieter/media/press-releases/.)
extended SPIDERweb Mill Control System is another Please register at www.rieter.com if you wish to re-
highlight here; this represents the first step towards ceive our media releases regularly by e-mail.
using the "Internet of Things" for optimizing the spin-
ning mill. The business group Components will be Future dates
presenting components such as the EliteAdvanced ◆ Publication of sales figures for the 2015 financial
compacting system, the new X-Comb and the LENA year: January 29, 2016
high speed spindle, which allow spinning mills to gain ◆ Results press conference and presentation for fi-
a technological advantage and, as a result, achieve nancial analysts on the 2015 annual results: March
higher profitability. 15, 2016
◆ Annual General Meeting 2016: April 6, 2016
Services
For the first time the business group After Sales will For further information, please contact:
be presenting its own service and product range. The Rieter Holding Ltd. - Investor Relations
goal is to enable Rieter customers to make optimal use JorisGröflin
of the spinning mill over the entire lifecycle. The Chief Financial Officer
business development dynamics indicate market ac- T +41 52 208 70 15
ceptance of this range. Consequently the business group I F +41 52 208 70 60
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

is aiming to grow by more than 30% overall in the E-mail: investor@rieter.com I www.rieter.com
next three years, based on sales amounting to 127.5 Rieter Management Ltd. - Media Relations
million CHF in 2014. Cornelia Schreier
Head Corporate Communications
Profitability T +41 52 208 70 32 I
Rieter has been consistently implementing the STEP F +41 52 208 70 60
UP program (drawn up in October 2014) for the pur- E-mail: media@rieter.com I www.rieter.com
pose of achieving its mid-term targets, i.e. an opera-
tive profitability (EBIT margin) of 10% in conjunction
with a return on net assets (RONA) of 14%.

416 March - April 2016


NEWS

Quality with a winning style


The USTER®TESTER 6 triumphs in
Red Dot Design Award 2016
Success at the first attempt in a prestigious inter- Testing. This data is combined with real-time informa-
national design competition was rooted in USTER's tion from yarn clearers monitoring 100% of mill pro-
commitment to both innovative technology and el- duction.
egant styling in its quality testing and monitoring The underlying principles of precision and reliability
instruments. The new USTER®TESTER 6 earned in its operation are also reflected in the quality mate-
the Red Dot Design Award 2016 for its ideal blend rials and high standards of manufacturing applied in
of impressive functionality with distinctive looks - its construction. An important element of USTER's
now taking its place alongside other outstanding product development strategy focuses on creating a
products in the Red Dot Design Yearbook. unique and distinctive style. Specifically, this means
instruments and components are deliberately designed
For yarn testing instruments, function comes first. And to incorporate special shapes and profiles that are
USTER®TESTER 6 fulfills this priority in every way, unique. This policy has been in place since at least
through comprehensive, precise and fast measurement 1987, when the USTER®TESTER 3 became the first
capabilities. But then - perhaps akin to an individual instrument to feature a distinct 'rounded' appearance.
looking to buy a new car - factors such as shape, color It continued with the curved front section of the
and brand image can also come into play for the tex- USTER®TESTER 5, establishing a clearly-recogniz-
tile mill customer. able look which sets the USTER® evenness testers
apart from others.
Unique instrument, unique look
"Functionality, reliability, accuracy and user-friendli-
ness have always been the top priorities in USTER
product development, and this approach continues now
and in future. However, we also admit that it's our
ambition to manufacture the best-looking instruments
too," says Gabriela Peters, Product Manager Yarn
Testing within Uster Technologies.

What customers want


Just as with a new car, mill managements are proud of
their purchases in yarn testing instruments: there is
always an emotional element in the choices they make.
Laboratories worldwide feel the satisfaction that
USTER®TESTER 6 confirms their status in the in-
dustry, as a major player for whom quality is para-
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The USTER®TESTER 6 is the pulse of a new genera- mount.


tion in yarn testing. The high accuracy and reliability
of its measurements are crucial in assuring the com- In fact, elegant design has been integrated into USTER
mercial value of spinners' products. This sixth genera- product developments for decades. The brief is to
tion of the USTER®TESTER incorporates the combine aesthetics with user-friendly ergonomics, so
USTER®QUALITY EXPERT, an essential tool for that creations - however stylized - will never detract
quality management, creating the brand-new Total from the primary needs of functionality and usability.
Testing Center. Accurate laboratory test results from Now, that style commitment has been formally ac-
the USTER®TESTER 6 are the starting point for Total knowledged with the Red Dot Award 2016 for indus-

March - April 2016 417


NEWS

trial design. But USTER customers will already recog- USTER®TESTER 6 has helped to sustain their busi-
nize the same style concepts in products such as the ness success thanks to the Total Testing Center and
USTER®QUANTUM yarn clearer. other innovative features. Positive feedback of this kind
is the best award USTER could ever receive."
Excellence has its reward
Only products which stand out strongly for their de- About the Red Dot Design Award:
sign excellence can earn the sought-after quality seal
from the international Red Dot jury, inaugurated in
1955.For the 2016 awards a total of 5,214 products
and innovations entered from 57 countries. Professor
Dr. Peter Zec, founder and president of the Red Dot
Award, says: "With their performances, the Red Dot
winners not only demonstrated an extraordinary de-
sign quality, but they also showed that design is an
integral part of innovative product solutions."

The Red Dot product design competition this year saw


41 experts from all over the globe gathering in Ger-
many at the end of February. The jury members in-
cluded ICE and Transrapid designer Alexander
Neumeister, fashion icon Jimmy Choo and automotive
design legend Chris Bangle. During the jury session In order to cover the wide scope of design in a profes-
all entries were examined on site. sional manner, the Red Dot Design Award is broken
down into three distinct disciplines: the Red Dot Award,
Products were registered in 31 categories: from con- Product Design; Red Dot Award, Communication
sumer electronics, furniture, jewelry or watches to Design; and Red Dot Award, Design Concept. The
interior decorations and lab technology. Global brands Red Dot Award is organised by the Design
such as Google, Apple, Sony, LG, Philips, Kartell or ZentrumNordrheinWestfalen in Essen, Germany. With
Artemide regularly submit entries, but 2016 was the more than 17,000 entries in 2015 alone, it is one of the
first time that USTER has put forward a product for largest competitions in the world. It was in 1955 that
consideration. a jury convened for the first time to assess the best
designs of the day.
Night of honors
A glamorous award ceremony and after-show party The name and branding of the awards were developed
will be held on July 4, 2016, with 1,200 guests ex- in the 1990s by Red Dot CEO, Professor Dr. Peter
pected to see the winners receive their certificates. Zec. Since then the sought-after "Red Dot" is the re-
Their products will also be exhibited in the Red Dot vered international seal of outstanding design quality.
Design Museum in Essen (Germany).
For more information please contact:
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Winners of the Red Dot Design Award 2016 will also Edith Aepli
be set down for posterity in the Red Dot Design Year- Senior Manager Marketing & Communication
book 2016/2017. In this publication, the Uster Technologies AG, Sonnenbergstrasse 10
USTER®TESTER 6 is described as follows: "Gloss CH - 8610 Uster / Switzerland
and matt chrome finishes together with black compo- Direct : +41 43 366 38 80 Mobile : +41 79 916 02 91
nents reflect the technical dimensions of the tester." Fax : +41 43 366 39 58
E-mail : edith.aepli@uster.com
Says Peters: "We are proud to be a winner of the Red www.uster.com, www.red-dot.org.
Dot Design Award 2016 but it will always make us
even more proud when customers report how the
418 March - April 2016
NEWS

Reiners + Fürst - Premium Rings and Travellers


Made in Germany at ITM 2016
Reiners + Fürst - Premium Rings and Travellers During the upcoming ITM in Istanbul R+F will present
Made in Germany at ITM 2016 the latest generation of TURBO chromium coated rings
and a selection of enhanced ring travellers:
1. TURBO rings offer simplified running-in and ex-
tremely stable running performance with highest spindle
speeds even under most challenging spinning condi-
tions like Compact and Siro-Compact. Since their
launch into the market in 2007 more than 15 Million
installed TURBO rings contribute to the success of
spinning mills all over the world.
2. R+F ring travellers stand out due to most rapidly
building up of lubricating film on their contact area
with the spinning ring. The current innovation is a
significant improvement of the traveller surface with
reduced friction coefficient. The benefits are even
prolonged life-times and further reduced ends-downs.
Mr. Benjamin Reiners, Owner and Managing
Director of R+F 3. The CERADUR ring and traveller system optimizes
capacity utilisation of long ring spinning machines and
simultaneously reduces labour costs as well as travel-
ler costs due to extremely long lifetimes:
◆ 2-3 more days of production per year due to
massive reduction of traveller changes and ma-
chine stoppage time
◆ 30-40% reduction of traveller costs per year
◆ 80% savings on labour costs for the traveller
changes in the mill
◆ less disturbances due to fewer ends downs after
each individual traveller change
R+F offers to analyse the individual mill situation
together with the customer and evaluate possible sav-
R+F spinning rings in the production process ing potentials.
We kindly invite you to stop by and visit us at our
agent's booth (INTA hall 3 booth 314) at ITM in
Istanbul.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

For more details please contact:


Reiners + Fürst GmbH u. Co. KG
Mr. Benjamin Reiners
Leibnizstr. 85
41061 Mönchengladbach
Germany
Tel.: + 49 (0) 2161 934-0 Fax: + 49 (0) 2161 834555
travellers@rundf.de
www.reinersfuerst.com
R+F ring travellers in the production process

March - April 2016 419


NEWS

SANTEX RIMAR GROUP


Firmly moves in the Weaving Sector
SANTEX RIMAR GROUP has firmly moved in the SANTEX RIMAR GROUP and SMIT share values
weaving machine sector for the textile industry with such as quality, high levels of innovation, flexibility,
the official entrance among its companies of SMIT, versatility and commitment to fulfil customer's expec-
one of the world leading manufacturer of weaving tations.
machines.
The entrance in SANTEX RIMAR GROUP is an
essential element of the Group strategic development
and will allow SMIT to use a vast sales and support
network worldwide to open up new opportunities and
to provide a higher level of know-how for customers.
With more than 150 years of history SANTEX RIMAR
GROUP is present in various countries with four fac-
tories and more than 10,000 customers throughout the
world and has the experience to be innovative yet offer
reliability, lower cost of production and environment
friendly technologies.
"SMIT technological know-how and committed hu-
man capital struggled by the past operational problems The achieved synergy between SMIT and SANTEX
deserve to keep growing. We firmly believe in this RIMAR GROUP allows customers to rely on a glo-
restart: we have a solid plan involving our territorial bal service network, high quality products, deep tech-
district historically devoted to textile industry. We will nological heritage and above all on an integrated tech-
start SMIT production in Trissino where SANTEX nology provider for all production processes, from loom
RIMAR GROUP headquarters are based and supply- to finished - natural and technical - textiles.
ing customers throughout the world" said Ferdinando
Businaro, SANTEX RIMAR GROUP President. For more information:
press@santexrimar.com
SMIT has been a forerunner in the weaving textile SANTEX RIMAR GROUP, Località Colombara 50
machine sector since 1938 and has become a key player 36070 Trissino (Vicenza) - Italy
worldwide in supplying weaving machines for a large
variety of applications: the technology characterizing
SMIT production includes weaving machines with
rapier weft insertion for home textiles, garments and
terry cloths; air-jet weft insertion machine for high
production volumes and customized solutions for the
production of special technical fabrics.

Information on your new products,


Journal of the TEXTILE Association

equipments and process


You are invited to submit information about new products, equipments
and process, developed and offered by you to the textile market. Such
write-ups are entertained for publication in JTA without any cost.

Don't miss this opportunity to promote your new products.


Write to : taicnt@gmail.com
420 March - April 2016
NEWS

SETEX introduces the App "SECOM mobile"


with features for actual and new controller generation
S E T E X of the plant.
Schermuly tex-
tile computer Managers can benefit from batch status information
GmbH will and time to batch end. Operators will make use of
show at ITM machine status information and time to next operator
2016 the new call. Service and maintenance responsibles take ad-
business App vantage of alarm and event notification and remote
for mobile com- monitoring.
munication with
SECOM con- With the default installation, the software is enabled
trols, available for IOS/Apple and Android/Google to connect with two machines, limited to "read only"
tablets and smart phones. access. Licensing at SETEX enables for further access
levels.
As phones and tablet devices start actively participat-
ing as expanded computing environment, SETEX has For more details please contact:
developed the App to provide real-time machine data. Jürgen Jerzembeck
Head of Marketing
The SECOM mobile App scans and detects indepen- +49 177 555 8241
dently for machines with Setex control systems. The Juergen.Jerzembeck@setex-germany.com
setup and access fits into the IT- security environment

SETEX releases version 3 of the contactless


fabric-scanning solutions CamCOUNT
and fabric INSPECTOR
Measuring and The use on tenter frames provides additional informa-
controlling stitch tion on skew distortion.
count for knitted
and weave fabric Beside improved fabric quality and better colour and
with Cam pattern uniformity on printed fabrics, the system re-
COUNT V3 fea- duces variations of over- and underweight fabrics and
tures reliable fab- eliminates punch weight measurements.
ric dimensions on
constant fabric The unique measurement method, which provides pre-
CamCOUNT V3_PR weight. cise results on machine halt or up to full speed, allows
to use the same technique on the laboratory system
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Working with modern camera devices renders radia- Fabric INSPECTOR V3. Using this features already
tion safety instructions obsolete. The CamCOUNT V3 for incoming quality control of fabrics, completes the
fabric measurement directly on the machine rollers system with detailed visualization and reporting - prior
makes measurement plates obsolete, avoids friction and to production and for process tracing with tolerance
allows numerous positions to mount the system - even bands.
on relatively small areas along the fabric run. Smart
software algorithms to analyze fabric density and evalu- For more details please contact:
ate parameters for process control of shrinkage and Jürgen Jerzembeck Head of Marketing
overfeed, add value on different machines as +49 177 555 8241
sanforizing or compactors. Juergen.Jerzembeck@setex-germany.com
March - April 2016 421
NEWS

Suessen at ITM 2016 in Istanbul


We from SUESSEN exhibit our products during ITM
Istanbul to demonstrate the competence in handling TwistPlus® is a false twist unit for ring spinning
and processing natural and man-made-fibres within the machines with EliTe®CompactSet. Twist can be re-
ring- and rotor spinning process. duced resulting in corresponding increase of produc-
tion and quality.
SUESSEN Show Highlight Exhibits
The reputed SUESSEN HP-GX 3010RPT Top Weight-
ing Arm replaces pneumatic top arm systems on ring
spinning machines reusing the given top roller equip-
ment.

On an Open-End drafting model we will present our


SpinBox SQ Modernisation, equipped with well-known
SUESSEN Premium Parts Spinning Components such
as ProFiL®Rotors, ProFiL®Brake Pads, TorqueStop,
SOLIDRING, Fibre Channel... and the new Premium
Parts products:

PS7 TwinDisc- "P"ower "S"aving "7" mm show a


reduced width of the disc and thus resulting in smaller
contact surface to the rotor shaft. This guarantees sig-
nificantly reduced energy consumption.
EliTe®Compact Set Advanced with special features as
EliTop Advanced, EliTube Advanced flip, Micramics The Twist Trap Navel creates additional false twist in
insert, S+ lattice apron and HP-GX 3010RPT Top the zone of highest spinning tension - within the rotor
Weighting Arm - when spinning knitting yarn of cotton in the range of
Ne 18 to Ne 40, achieving production increase of 5%
SUESSEN's EliTe®Compact Set is the world's most in to 15% by reducing the twist multiplier without in-
demand compact spinning system. The new creasing the rotor speed.
EliTe®CompactSetAdvanced impresses our customers
with the innovative components and devices as the SUESSEN Premium Parts also provides Moderniza-
new EliTopAdvanced with EliSpring®, EliTube Ad- tions Packages as Trash Channel, CharbonFibre Rod,
vanced flip, Micramics insert and S+ lattice apron SRK to SRZ Modernisation, Package Cradle Shock
making the system even more attractive for our cus- Absorber.
tomers and more competitive in the market...

Suvin to devise a Textile Strategy for Afghanistan


Journal of the TEXTILE Association

With Suvin signing an international project with Af- facilitation and implementation of commercially vi-
ghanistan for development of Cotton Value Chain in able agricultural value chain. These are further supple-
Afghanistan, there is one more feather in the Suvin's mented with infrastructure projects in the target prov-
Cap in terms of international projects. inces of Afghanistan. CARD-F seeks to empower rural
communities and strengthen their economic standing
Comprehensive Agriculture and Rural Development - through design and implementation of comprehensive
Facility (CARD-F) is an agriculture & rural develop- and inclusive sets of development interventions. As a
ment programme of the Islamic Republic of Afghani- model of cross-ministry collaboration, CARD-F works
stan. CARD-F aims to increase rural employment, under the patronage of an Inter- Ministerial Commit-
income and business opportunities through the design, tee (IMC) which consist of various ministries.
422 March - April 2016
NEWS

Textile industry in Afghanistan is yet to pick off. Apart stand the sector in brief where they got the opportu-
from few ginning mills, there is no much presence of nity to meet industry leaders, plant heads, various
any other textile value chain. Most of textile & ap- authorities& research bodies.
parel requirement is taken care by imports from other
countries mainly Pakistan. Though the cotton produc- The next step would be visit of team of experts from
tion in Afghanistan is adequate, most of cotton is Suvin to Afghanistan to carry out 360 degree market
exported to Pakistan due to lack of Textile Industry research to assess existing situation in Afghanistan in
presence in Afghanistan. In order to establish commer- terms of raw material availability, infrastructure and
cially viable cotton value chain & create more sources government policies to frame right strategy.
of employment in Afghanistan, it is needed to map
right strategy. Mr. Avinash Mayekar, MD & CEO of With 13 international assignments& 215 assignments
Suvin Advisors says, "We are extremely proud to bag in PAN India, Suvin would like to assist the industry
such a prestigious international project which will in meeting the dynamic demands of the rapidly ex-
create Suvin's strong mark in international Textile In- panding global and domestic industry at competitive
dustry. levels.With its profound knowledge base & strong
support of internationally trained consultants, Suvin
With past experience in devising strategy for various will work towards sustainable growth of Textile Indus-
countries, Suvin is sure to adopt right strategy which try. Their key strengths will be always the priority to
will help Afghanistan to identify underlying opportu- customer needs, ground-breaking ideas, market oriented
nities with higher success rate. To start with, team of approach, scientific project planning & execution and
experts from Suvin has assisted Afghanistan delegates result oriented practical solutions which give them
to understand Textile Value Chain starting from Gin- upper hand over their competitors.
ning to Garmenting as well as backward integration of
extraction of cotton seeds to oil refinery. Then they Suvin is confident to handhold Afghanistan Textile
have been exposed toIndian Textile Industry to under- Industry for successful implementation of the project.

The latest generation of the USTER®TESTER


6-C800 sets new standards
A must for every filament yarn producer

The latest generation of the USTER®TESTER 6-


C800 sets new standards with powerful sensors and
targeted innovations

The new USTER®TESTER 6 opens up a whole


new world of quality for filament yarn producers,
with superb new sensor technology and innovative
features aimed at right-first-time production. For
the first time spinners benefit from a built-in
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Knowledge Based System and data about twist -


two of many reasons for a safe investment.

For proper filament yarn evenness testing, only sen-


sors with the highest sensitivity, accuracy and reliabil- Sensor power, for guaranteed quality
ity can provide the precision data required. The new The new digital Capacitive Sensor CC of the
USTER®TESTER 6-C800 meets that description and USTER®TESTER 6-C800 offers higher accuracy and
more, with purpose-designed sensors which will set reliability than ever before. The USTER name and
unique standards in this sector, making it an essential renowned Swiss accuracy are the guarantors of consis-
equipment in the laboratory of every filament yarn tent and precise measurement. The new Capacitive
producer. Sensor has the power to assure filament producers that
March - April 2016 423
NEWS

their yarn quality will be right first time, every time. Easy operation, easy investment choice
Designed-in ergonomics make it simple, even for un-
The USTER®TESTER 6-C800 also offers several trained operators, to tackle any potential quality issues
completely new features to assist filament quality with confidence. The USTER®TESTER 6-C800 has
monitoring. A unique automatic twist scan facility top-quality graphical user interface, with an intuitive
makes twister settings easier. touchscreen monitor. It means the lab operatives can
stay focused on test results, promoting higher effi-
Measurement results for the famous USTER® value ciency and optimum user satisfaction - while the de-
CVm are presented as easy-reference graphics, with cision-makers can be sure of a wise investment choice
diagrams, spectrograms and histograms. These cover with the USTER®TESTER 6-C800.
inert and half-inert values, as well as cut-length re-
sults. Easy operation, easy investment choice
Designed-in ergonomics make it simple, even for un-
USTER know-how is also built in, accessible through trained operators, to tackle any potential quality issues
the new Knowledge Based System (KBS). This en- with confidence.
ables users to trace the cause of quality problems on The USTER®TESTER 6-C800 has top-quality graphi-
the spinning machine quickly, without the need for cal user interface, with an intuitive touchscreen moni-
extra settings or input from the machine supplier. A tor. It means the lab operatives can stay focused on
single click on the spectrogram display brings up the test results, promoting higher efficiency and optimum
defective component on the screen. The KBS saves user satisfaction - while the decision-makers can be
time, as well as improving quality, avoiding expensive sure of a wise investment choice with the
claims. USTER®TESTER 6-C800.

For more details please contact:


Edith Aepli
Senior Manager Marketing & Communication
Uster Technologies AG
Sonnenbergstrasse 10
CH - 8610 Uster / Switzerland
Direct +41 43 366 38 80
Mobile +41 79 916 02 91
Fax +41 43 366 39 58
E-mail edith.aepli@uster.com
www.uster.com

French Machinery @ ITM 2016


France is the 6th exporter of textile machinery world- their own premises or at such fair as Itma's, he consid-
wide and Turkey is its second most important market. ers ITM a major opportunity. "ITM is a major regional
ITM is the leading textile machinery fair in Turkey. event and we look forward to meet there our long time
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Hubert TRETSCH (Superba's marketing manager), customers as well as new ones from Turkey and sur-
President of the Promotion Committee of the French rounding countries. Our clients and we share the same
Textile Machinery Manufacturers' Association goal: be reliable long term partners for our customers.
(UCMTF), will be at ITM Istanbul June 1-4. We are not looking for short term profits but to make
our companies stronger and stronger to seize the mar-
He states, "Our tradition of R & D associated with our
kets opportunities and be able to absorb the difficult
long term partnerships with our clients explains why
years. We are mainly SME's, often family owned, lead-
France is exporting around one billion Euros worth of
ers or co-leaders in their markets. This is why we
textile machinery each year." Eventhough there are
understand each other so well with our Turkish cus-
many opportunities to meet the Turkish customers on
tomers who are real entrepreneurs".
424 March - April 2016
NEWS

At ITM, the textile and carpet industrialists will be of experience in Airlay technology Laroche will nota-
shown the latest technical innovations by the French bly introduce the new AIRFELT with "RESINFELT"
teams. The stability of these teams allows them to go option, and the latest innovations in used clothes recy-
well beyond the purely technical and address the long cling processes.
term objectives of their customers. LAROCHE has been a strong partner to many major
More information on the French textile machinery Turkish companies in the nonwoven and recycling
manufacturers can be found on the portal industries for more than 30 years. LAROCHE pro-
www.ucmtf.com vides a full range of engineering, development and
NSC Fibre To Yarn support services for turnkey projects.
Hall 3 Booth 318A In Cours-La Ville - France, a 2000 m² technical center
with SAMOTEKS equipped with one Airfelt with "Resinfelt" option and
NSC Fibre to Yarn continues to develop and propose 2 "Flexiloft" Airlays with needle loom and
Tow To Top lines with the model S200 of stretch thermobonding oven, allows to test and prove the tech-
breaker followed by the new model of defelter rebreaker nical solutions on industrial lines. Customers are wel-
model D5GC40 and GC40 chain gill. As finisher m/c, come to use these facilities to develop their new prod-
the FMV41/42 vertical rubbing frame takes place. ucts.
Recently, NSC Fibre To Yarn has installed semi-wor- The company's sales, service and spare parts teams
sted lines with SW35 carding m/c (2.5 m or 3.5 m follow up each customer throughout the life time of
wide), manufactured by N. Schlumberger followed by the equipment. With 2 manufacturing plants and after
preparation lines consisting of chain gills model GC sales support, LAROCHE serves highly satisfied cus-
40 and finishers m/c model FMV41/42. tomers in more than 70 countries.
New: NSC offers to modernize recycling lines for SUPERBA
acrylic fibres or blended ones by introducing its well- Hall 2 Booth 214
known combing ERA between card and gills. The SUPERBA, a member of the Vandewiele group of
contribution of the combing ERA is economically es- companies since July 2015, will be present at ITM in
sential according to 4 points of view: Istanbul in on a common booth under the Vandewiele
- production: 1 ton per day in 3 deniers (3 shifts). roof.
- cleanliness: 25% of neps less compared with PB SUPERBA, already mastering the sophisticated space-
family m/c. dyeing technique for years, will show their latest
- energy consummation: equipment with economic machine type MCD3. This new version is able to
motors. continuously dye a bundle of 72 yarns, with a produc-
- reduced consummation of spare parts owing to a tion of up to 280Kgs/h combined with a TVP3 line
new design of kinematic. and up to 400Kgs/h with a DL5 line with a range of
NSC Fibre to Yarn is honored to have numerous Turk- 6 spot colors plus 1 base shade. Thanks to its unique
ish customers with whom the machinery manufacturer high-speed piezo-electric linear actuator technology,
can improve the machines and adapt them to each the machine offers a wide range of spot patterns, from
customer's needs. short-space (20mm) to extra-long-space (150m), under
In order to give the best service in Turkey, an organi- the control of a powerful pattern creation software
zation of a spare parts have been set up in Gaziantep (Yarndraw3).The new MCD3 also permits a new style
with the BILGE/Automation Company. of space-dyed yarn thanks to its exclusive bi-color
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

technology, offering the carpet designer a wider range


LAROCHE of possibilities: MCD3 bi-color space-dyed rugs will
Hall 3 Booth 302 be shown at ITM.
With close to a century of experience in the difficult The new version of the famous TVP3 heat-setting line
art of textile processes, LAROCHE offers high qual- is providing many improvements and ergonomic, such
ity, efficient and proven solutions and provides turn- as the MLU multi-laying unit with its new MF400
key solutions from sales, engineering, manufacturing frieze box. This laying unit will also be exhibited on
and worldwide services. the stand at ITM to demonstrate the ability to switch
At ITM, LAROCHE will show a full range of prod- from straight-set to frieze mode within minutes, in-
ucts made from their latest technologies. After 20 years stead of 2 hours with the previous equipment. The

March - April 2016 425


NEWS

latest version of the MF400 frieze box integrated in- PETIT has a consequent and permanent storage capac-
side the MLU also enables to produce a new style of ity of spare parts with more than 20 000 references
frieze yarn with very even waves and offers the elec- multi brand for fine count textile machines especially
tronic control of the friezing from very light to strong ICBT and looms for Saurer Diederichs.
frieze effect. All technical drawings for manufacturing of spare parts
DOLLFUS & MULLER are compliant with the genuine ones.
Hall 12 Booth 1202 C An acknowledged know-how with a rich experience in
Dollfus & Muller, founded in 1811, manufactures the field of covering, texturizing, twisting.
endless felts and dryer belts for the textile finishing
The company is also a covering spindles manufacturer
factories. The company will exhibit:
with a range for bobbin from 400 grs to 2000 grs and
- compacting sanfor felts for knit finishing
rotation speed from 1000 to 30000 rpm.
- sanforizing felts for denim and woven fabrics fin-
ishing PETIT and its agent OBEN INNOVATEKS have been
- printing dryer belts for textile printing actively preparing their ITM offer to meet their cus-
- sublimation blankets for transfer printing. tomers' needs and propose them the right solutions.
Dollfus & Muller will introduce, at ITM, its improved AESA
compacting sanfor felt for knit finishing with major Hall 3 Booth 315B
evolutions compared with the other products in order A worldwide leader in air engineering for all textile
to serve better the dyeing houses. The compacting production processes for natural fibers as well as for
sanfor felt quality brings a special care to the fabrics man made fibers in all different stages: spinning, knit-
thanks to its smoothest surface, has an excellent guid- ting, weaving, hosiery, nonwovens, dyeing and finish-
ing and the best compacting rate in relations with its ing. The company is specialized in air-conditioning
new exclusive compacting sanfor felt design. and waste collection systems for textile factories.
The Dollfus & Muller's sanforizing palmer felts are The overall energy saving is becoming a competitive-
ideal for Denim producers. At ITM, the company will ness factor. The AESA air conditioning plants are
show its proven durable Sanfor felts. The Dollfus & contributing in a big way to this goal. For spinning
Muller's Sanfor felts are recognised by most of the factories, the state of the art is to drive all fans and
major machine makers as the best felts. pumps motors through inverters. For weavings, the
latest development called WEAVE DIRECT is capable
Furthermore, Dollfus & Muller will display its new
to reach up to 50 % energy savings. This is possible
durable printing dryer belt quality TAMIP HT 500 NR.
thanks to a dedicated supply air ducting system where
This print dryer belt is the most durable printing dryer
unique and localized WDB type diffusers are placed
belt specially designed for pigment printing of bed
above each loom. Like this the moisture needed for a
sheeting. Dollfus & Muller will as well display its
good output is conveyed in the right quantity to the
exclusive print open mesh belt specially designed for
right place above the loom, and the overall air require-
the production of fine fabrics, scarves, flags.
ment can be reduced drastically.
These belts have special non marking surfaces which
Last but not least the DIGIVENT control system, with
can avoid as well the particles on the back side. Dollfus
latest AESA logic is capable to have even more stable
& Muller has the widest range of printing dryer belts
room condition between running and not running high
and the strongest dryer belts.
speed machines.
Dollfus & Muller staff will be available for its cos-
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

This achievement is possible with AESA's more than


tumers at the exhibition together with their local com-
50 years of experience in this specialized field and is
pacting sanfor felt representative Mr Ali CETIN from
assuring better productivity to AESA's clients and better
CETIN MAKINE (Lüleburgaz - Kirklareli). The com-
yarn and fabric quality to the end user.
pany gives excellent machinery services and keeps
stock locally in Turkey of its compacting sanfor felts. AESA recognizes Turkey as a major market and a
special organization has been set up to give the Turk-
PETIT
ish market the best service: agent, direct office,
Hall 3 Booth 310B
etc…after sales: AESA has a liaison office in Turkey,
PETIT is the specialist in the trade of accessories for
and Ikiler Tekstil has been the agent for the last sev-
textile machines.
eral years.

426 March - April 2016


NEWS

Value -Enhansing News from Rieter at the ITM 2016


Rieter is presenting new machine generations for
preparation and end spinning as well as appropri- The following products and services are included
ate spare parts, is showing components for the eco- amongst the exhibits:
nomical manufacture of high quality yarns in addi- ◆ The new Rieter combing set - E 36 / E 86.
tion to After Sales services and is demonstrating ◆ The new K 46 compact spinning machine.
optimization possibilities for spinning mills with the ◆ The The extended SPIDERweb mill control sys-
assistance of the so-called "Internet of Things". tem with six new modules, two of which are linked
to the Internet. SPIDERweb is a groundbreaking
step in the use of the "Internet of Things" for
optimising the spinning mill.
◆ Innovative spare parts and conversion packages
as well as After Sales services. These range from
technology support across maintenance audits and
repair services through to customer training. Rieter
machines and systems remain permanently com-
petitive due to retrofit packages and After Sales
complete solutions.
◆ Bräcker, Graf, Novibra and Suessen are present-
ing components and systems for the economic
manufacture of high quality yarns. The focus lies
E 86 Comber on the STARLET plus traveller and the Easy Top
clothing, the high-performance spindles with
CROCO doff and the ring spinning compact sys-
tem EliTe®CompactSet Advanced.

The yarn production should be highly flexible, pro-


ductive and economic. This requires an optimal coor-
dination of the machines from the fibre and the spin-
ning preparation up to the end spinning process. Rieter
has a high system competence and offers these pro-
cesses and the know-how from one single source.
Alongside valuable systems and convincing technol-
ogy, customers also profit from a supportive partner-
ship. On this basis, Rieter wants to help spinning mills
to achieve even greater success.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

K 46 Compact Spinning Machine


For further information, please contact:
At the ITM 2016 in Istanbul from 1st to 4th June, Rieter Management Ltd
Rieter is presenting highlights from the current prod- Media Relations
uct range. All three business units are showing their Cornelia Schreier
products and service innovations for complete systems, Head Corporate Communications
spinning preparation and end spinning process under T +41 52 208 70 32
their trademarks Rieter, Bräcker, Graf, Novibra and F +41 52 208 70 60
Suessen. media@rieter.com
www.rieter.com
March - April 2016 427
NEWS

LIVA hosts an evening of fashion


LIVA hosts an evening of fashion graced by Chess
Grandmaster ViswanathanAnand and also wit- The LAPF Confluence concluded with popular Sand
nessed an Innovative Sand Art, Fabric Dance & a art artist Nitish Bharti (India's Got Talent fame) who
glittering Fashion Walk displayed LIVA's successful journey through innova-
The evening of the first ever LIVA Accredited Partner tive sand creations. Performances by dancers show-
Forum (LAPF) Confluence organized on 20th May, casing peculiar 'Fabric Dance' proved to be one of the
2016 at Sahara, Mumbai by LIVA, the natural fluid key highlights of the evening.
fashion fabric was full of colors, fashion &vibrance. LIVA is a natural fluid fashion fabric, from Birla
Cellulose - a part of Aditya Birla Group. LIVA is cre-
ated from natural cellulosic fibres and transforms the
way you wear garments, giving them the most liquid
and soft drape. LIVA is the preferred ingredient fabric
brand for leading women's brands including BIBA,
Lifestyle, Shopper Stop, Van Heusen, Pantaloons, Allen
Solly FBB, Fusion Beats, Maxx, Park Avenue, Wills
Lifestyle and many more in over 140 cities and around
2000 stores. Currently more than 7 million garments
carry LIVA tags. About 900 stores adorned the LIVA
visual merchandise and training sessions conducted
across India.
ViswanathanAnand Addressing the Audience at LAPF
Confluence Hosted by LIVA
The event witnessed the presence of world renowned
Chess Grandmaster ViswanathanAnand where he gave
an inspirational speech on 'What it Takes to Be a World
Champion'.
He shared his journey right from getting introduced to
chess at the age of 6 till becoming the Grandmaster.
He said, "I had to wait for 3 years to achieve my goal.
I kept missing winning the Grandmaster title consecu-
tively for 2 years but I was determined about my game;
and then I managed to bag the title with sheer patience
Fabric Dance at LAPF Confluence Hosted by LIVA
& tenacity. Similarly, you'll have many quiet years
during your struggle, but there will be a day where
you would see your efforts paying off well."
ViswanathanAnand is known for his strategy to win
with his effortless moves & confidence in his game
which is what the brand LIVA stands for.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The event also saw a fashion walk by stunning models


donning LIVA outfits. Spectacular colorful styles which
are flowy& fluid dominated this fashion parade fol-
lowed by a rhythmic fashion show at the Confluence.
LAPF Connect was launched by Mr. Dilip Gaur, MD,
Grasim Industries. It isone of its kind digital platform
for viscose based textile value chain partners
bridgingthe gap between the buyers & sellers across Models Strike a Pose During the Fashion Walk at LAPF
the globe. Confluence Hosted by LIVA

428 March - April 2016


NEWS

Launch of LAPF Connect at LAPF Confluence


Hosted by LIVA
For further queries contact Fountainhead MKTG
PR:
Models Walk the Ramp at the Fashion Walk Held at Vanishka- 9820048555, AmoliHindlekar - 9664699127,
LAPF Confluence hosted by LIVA NidhiKhandelwal - 9773519454

LIVA brand set to double its store presence to


4,000 outlets this year
LIVA CONNECT launched to bring unorganised cose based fibre growing at 27% CAGR while normal
and organised sector across industry under one roof textiles have grown at 5% CAGR over the past few
in order to drive per capita viscose fibre consump- years. Since the domestic market has been stagnant,
tion in apparel retail. we intend the portal to be an ideal platform for the
trade to come on board to drive the eco-friendly vision
Having caught the imagination of the designers and of LIVA fabric," Gaur said.
top retail brand, LIVA -fabric from the Aditya Birla
Group, has embarked upon a larger plan to grow fur- Birla Cellulose has also been working on speciality
ther in the domestic market to 4,000 stores from the fibre within the viscose segment that accounted for
prevailing 2,000 stores. 36% of the total portfolio in the just concluded year
compared to 28% in the previous year, Gaur said re-
Speaking at Confluence - a LIVA Accredited Partner ferring to the innovation initiatives undertaken within
Forum platform - Mr.Dilip Gaur, MD of Grasim In- the company.The rising influence of LIVA in the
dustries and Business Director pulp and fibre division, organised retail sector would aid the non-branded seg-
Aditya Birla Group said, "In Spring Summer 2016, ment with trickled down effect and create the neces-
LIVA has presence in over 2000 stores across 140 sary consumer pull and awareness, he said.
cities with 7 million garments tagged to the brand and
we intend to double the outlets to 4000 stores in the At the conference, Narendra Kumar, renowned fash-
next two season. The growth of the brand is acceler- ion designer pointed out that the demand for high
ating with each season. With the launch of LIVA fashion apparel is not restricted to metro cities only
CONNECT, a b2b digital platform we aim to give but also in Tier-II and Tier-III cities like Patna and
access to the unorganised sector and ensure that we Kanpur and LIVA has the potential to satisfy this grow-
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

widen and deepen the market at the same time." ing demand.

The Confluence conference saw presence of over 600 LIVA is focussed on women's clothing - western, eth-
top industry players from across the country to delib- nic, fusion wears, leggings, palazzos, harem pants,
erate various trends and options to grow the viscose stoles, etc and has ambitious plans to exponentially
pie in the domestic market. ramp up the women's wear sale in India based on the
inherent potential it envisages. After leggings, LIVA's
"Currently, the per capita consumption of viscose fibre has forayed into sarees based on consumer insights
is 0.2 kg in India while the globally it is 0.75 kg and with more developments in more categories in the
the same is twice in China at 1.5 kg. Globally, man- coming months.
made fibres have growing faster than cotton, with vis-
March - April 2016 429
NEWS

LAPF Confluence witness participation from the Who's


who of the textile and clothing industry in India. The
participation was enriching and extensive value ex-
change program.

The Panelist at the LAPF Forum

For further queries contact Fountainhead MKTG


PR:
Vanishka - 9820048555
AmoliHindlekar - 9664699127/
Mr.Dilip Gaur, MD Grasim Industries NidhiKhandelwal- 9773519454

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA)


(an ISO 9001:2008 certified association)
Membership Fees
Sr. No. Type of Membership One Time* Fee
1. Corporate Member INR 15,000
2. Patron Member INR 3,200
3. Life Time Member INR 2,100
4. Overseas Member USD 100
5. Life Time to Patron Member INR 1,300
* Plus add 15.00 % Service Tax
www.textileassociationindia.org/membership/application-form
or contact respective TAI Unit
For more details contact.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Textile Association (India)


2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Near Nirmal Nursing Home, 91, Ranade Road Extension,
Shivaji Park, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 India
Tel.: +91-22-24461145, Fax: +91-22-24474971
E-mail : taicnt@gmail.com
Website : www.textileassociationindia.org

430 March - April 2016


NEWS

ColorJet to Bring Paradigm Shift in Home


Furnishing Industry at Heimtextil 2016
◆ FABJET GRAND especially targeted for adjusts automatically based on the type of fabrics being
customised home furnishings textile segment used.
◆ Uses all environmental friendly aqueous based
The FABJET GRAND also has an automatic wiping
inks whether Reactive, Pigment or Disperse
system which wipes excess ink and dust from the print
◆ Directly prints on cotton and also polyester-based
head surface. The Capping Station prevents inks from
fabrics
drying within the print head when printer is not in use
ColorJet Group, the biggest and only Indian manufac- for a long time, and also protects the head from dust
turer of digital printers in India will bring a paradigm accumulation.
shift to the Indian home furnishing industry at
It is further equipped with advanced colour manage-
Heimtextil 2016 in hall 11, stall no H06 by introduc-
ment engine and colour processing tools which ensure
ing its wider width direct-to-fabric digital home textile
faster processing of files leading to saving time and
printer FABJET GRAND which is suitable to print on
increasing productivity, and also has user-friendly and
all inks, viz. Reactive, Pigment or Disperse.
easy-to-use colour controls to manage colours.
ColorJet will showcase the live demonstration of home
There are advanced dither patterns for photo-realistic
textile printing on products like bedsheets, pillow cover,
output, fully customized printer settings for enhanced
curtains, table covers, etc on the FABJET GRAND.
print results, smoother gradations and vibrant colours
Exhibitors are encouraged and invited to witness the
for superior print quality and in-built ICC profiles for
live demonstration and see the magic of home textile
various media and print modes.
digital printing unfold at the ColorJet stall.
ColorJet is the only manufacturer that offers and sells
The FABJET GRAND is especially targeted at the
machines as a solution, along with RIP colour man-
customised home furnishings textile segment, particu-
agement, ink usage, ICC profile and training for appli-
larly for producers of home décor products like cur-
cation development or various applications so that a
tains, bed covers and sofa covers to directly print on
machine can be used across different markets.
cotton and polyester-based fabrics and use environ-
mental friendly aqueous based Pigment, Reactive or Mr. Smarth Bansal, Brand Manager at ColorJet Group
Disperse inks. said, "Apart from the price being very competitive,
since our digital textile printers are manufactured at a
The printer delivers high productivity, since it has two
state-of-the-art manufacturing facility in India itself,
heads per colour in staggered position, which increases
buyers of our machines are eligible for various subsi-
production and also has an extremely high practical
dies and benefits offered by the Government of India
printing speed, enabling high daily printing volumes
under EPCG & TUF schemes."
and outstanding runability for overnight printing with-
out banding and colour deflection. For more information please contacts :
Arun Rao
The FABJET GRAND features a proprietary AIVC
Founder
technology for consistent print performance by main-
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Taurus Communications India


taining constant jetting conditions even in varying
Cell : +91 98250-38518 / 91575-07938
environmental conditions, and offers excellent print
Email : arun@taruruscomm.net
life with vivid eye-catching long-life colours for unique
and richly finished fabric.
Smarth Bansal
It has an automated feed and a take-up system, syn- Brand Manager
chronized with tension bars for long unattended print ColorJet Group India
runs on various types of fabric. It operates via a pneu- Cell : +91 98102-39602
matics control-based tension-bar on media feed and Email : smarth@colorjetgroup.com
take up, to ensure consistent tension on fabric and www.colorjetgroup.com

March - April 2016 431


NEWS

TAI organizing WTC-2


After the grand success of World Textile Conference participate and this will provide a great opportunity to
2011 and very successful first-ever overseas 1st Glo- know global facts of textile industry.
bal Textile Congress recently concluded at Bangkok,
Thailand, The Textile Association (India) is organiz- There will also have expert talks on today's issues like
ing World Textile Conference-2 during 16th& TPP, RCEP where top experts will speak. Apart from
17thSeptember, 2016 at Hotel Sahara Star, Opp. Do- this there are speakers from Garment Industry, US
mestic Airport, Mumbai (India). This mega event will Retail Industry will participate in the conference along
be indeed 2nd of its kind, to play leading role and to with E-Commerce Giants from India and abroad. This
enhance its global image. conference will be a landmark conference and will
meet truly the objective of the Textile Associations
WTC-2 will focus on manufacturing strength of Tex- (India).
tile Industry in Far East including China, Vietnam,
Malaysia, Indonesia, Korea& Japan etc. and there This will also provide an opportunity to the global
would be lot of deliberations by speakers from all these participants to get an insight about the international
countries who will speak on variety of subjects. World textile scenario of various countries which in turn will
Textile Conference-2 would be again truly international highly benefit to textile industry across the world. Most
conference which would be two days conference will of the participants will also have an opportunity to
address various issues pertaining to the textile indus- meet buyers and sellers from various parts of the world.
try globally. We will also provide stalls where the sponsors can
display their products for Global audience.
We will have eminent Global Speakers from all over
the world and have planned to invite people from 20 Conference will be attended by leading Industry cap-
countries or so. Also efforts will be made to invite tains, professionals, members of AEPC, CITI, Garment
from Pakistan, Sri Lanka, USA, Australia, South Af- Manufacturers Association, Central and State Govern-
rica &, Bangladesh in addition to the speakers invited ment ministers and supported by officials. About 700
for 1st Global Textile Congress, Thailand, in order to professional delegates from India and abroad are ex-
make bigger success and to bring more issues of Glo- pected to participate in the conference.
bal Textile Industry on our platform.
Organizing Committee of the conference has invited
Following Global Associations from China, Korea, to be the part of the conference as delegate and also
Vietnam, Cambodia, Bangladesh and Pakistan as agreed requested to support the conference by accepting to be
to participate in the conference during my recent visit Partners, by inserting the advertisement in the Souve-
to China & Korea. nir, by booking a stall in the exhibition and by encour-
aging maximum friends to register as delegates.
◆ Taiwan Textile Federation
◆ China Chamber of Commerce for Import and This is a great opportunity to show the strength and
Export of Textiles creativity to the Textile Industry.
◆ Myanmar Garment Manufacturers Association
◆ Vietnam Cotton & Spinning Association
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Please don't miss this opportunity, so book the dates.


◆ Garment Manufacturers Association in Cambodia
◆ Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporter All details are available on TAI website
Association www.textileassociationindia.org.
◆ Pakistan Readymade Garments Manufacturers & The Textile Association (India) - Central Office
Exporters Association 2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Next to Nirmal Nursing
Home, 91 Ranade Road Extension,
There will be also a panel discussions where all the Shivaji Park, Dadar (West), Mumbai - 400 028
leaders of these associations will participate and there Tel: 022-24461145/24474971, E-mail:
will be a roundtable meet for one and a half hour taicnt@gmail.com
where all these leaders along with Indian leaders will
432 March - April 2016
NEWS

JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION


VOLUME 76 - MAY 2015 TO APRIL 2016
SUBJECT INDEX
Subject Authors Issue Page
● EDITOTIAL:
◆ Engineering Textiles to keep us healthier and happy R.V. Adivarekar 1 2
nurturing a healthy, safe life through yoga and
comfort fabrics
◆ You become successful by helping others become M.D. Teli 2 70
successful … An Ethiopian experience
◆ It is time to feel good … Diwali is here R.V. Adivarekar 3 147
◆ A ray of hope for glooming textile industry M.D. Teli 4 214
◆ Make in India: through a textile technologist's R.V. Adivarekar 5 290
perspective¢
◆ Let us make Technical Textiles in India M.D. Teli 6 358
● DYEING:
◆ Colouration of Wool Fibre with Natural Dyes M. D. Teli & Sanket P. Valia 2 28
◆ A Novel Natural Source SterculiaFoetida Fruit Shell M. D. Teli & PintuPandit 5 293
WasteasColourant and Antibacterial Agent for Cotton
◆ Development of using Solid and Compound Shades M. D. Teli, Sanket P. Valia, 6 367
on Wool Fabric using Natural Dyes Maruti Kamble & Dhanashri Kolamnkar
● FIBRE:
◆ Comparative Analysis of Hand of Bamboo-Silk and Suman Pant & Kavita Chaudhary 3 157
Cotton-Silk Kota Doria
◆ Microscopic, IR-Spectroscopic and Thermal Analysis Himansu Shekhar Mohapatra & 4 217
on Biodegradability of Jute Kamal KantiGoswami
● FINISHING:
◆ Silicone Finish for Enhancing Properties of Polyester Mosmi Rupareliya, Namrita Kola 2 86
& Ashutosh Mairal
◆ Anti-Static and Functional Properties of Asminosi O. A. Hakeim, M. M. El Zawahry, 2 90
lsesquioxane Oligomer Treated and Dyed Fabrics Nermin M. Aly, N.S. El-Hawary,
H.A. Diab & Ali Marwa A.
◆ Antibacterial Finishing of Knitted Cotton Fabric Arijit Chakraborty, 3 149
Using Chitosan-citrate Rosalind Chakraborty, Subrata Minj,
Biplab Paul & Krishna Gopal Mondal
● GARMENTING:
◆ Effect of Various Process Variables on Button Shelly Khanna &Amandeep Kaur 2 102
Pullout Strength of Buttons
◆ Role of Merchandiser to Optimize Manufacturing Sneha Khairnar, Pramod Raichurkar, 3 161
Cost Pranjali Chandurkar & M. Ramachandran
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

● GENERAL:
◆ The Factors Affecting the Purchase Intentions of Dipanjan Kumar Dey 1 24
Young Generation for Branded Apparels
● HANDLOOM:
◆ Product Diversification of Handloom Khesh Fabric Lina Chakraborty 5 304
● HOME TEXTILES:
◆ Analysis of Human Physiological Comfort Properties P. Kandhavadivu, R. Rathinamoorthy 3 165
of Commercial Hospital Bed Linen Fabrics & R. Surjit

March - April 2016 433


NEWS

● MANAGEMENT:
◆ Studies in General Acceptance and Efficacy of M. D. Teli, Prateeti Ugale & 3 172
Baby Diapers Sanket Valia
Corporate Social Responsibilities in Textile and Lalit Jajpura, Sushil Kumar & 5 307
Apparel Industry Jai Veer
● MEDICAL TEXTILES:
◆ Studies in General Acceptance and Efficacy of M. D. Teli, A. Mallick & V. Warge 1 9
Baby Diapers
● OTHERS:
◆ Parameters of Choice of Sanitary Napkins M. D. Teli, Aranya Mallick & 4 235
-A Techno-commercial Survey Aakansha Srivastava
◆ KasargodSarees : The Threads of Tradition C R Meena, Minakshi Sanjay, 6 376
Nidhi Dhaneesh & Nikitha S.
● PRINTING:
◆ Traditional Printed and Resist Textiles of Gujarat Madhu Sharan, Vandana Chauhan & 2 78
- an Overview Hinal Kaystha
● PROCESSING:
◆ Printing of Cotton with Natural Dyes using Pre and M. D. Teli, Sanket P. Valia & 1 23
Meta Mordanting Techniques Chandni Pradhan
● SMART TEXTILE:
◆ An Overview on the Growth and Prospectus of Mamatha G. Hegde 1 15
Intelligent Textiles and Clothing
● SPINNING:
◆ Influence of Rotor Machine Process Parameters on R. N. Narkhedkar & A. B. Bagawan 1 5
Rotor Yarn Quality
◆ The process Dynamics of Egyptian Cotton G-86 Dr. Eng. Ibrahim A. Elhawary & 6 361
with a Compact Spinning Machine Mohamed Y. Naeim
● TECHNICAL TEXTILES:
◆ Application of Textile Materials in Earth-quake V. C. Mudnoor, R. P. Sawant, 1 19
Resistance Constructions A. V. Mahajan & A. L. Gulve
◆ Development of Nylon/Carbon Nanotube S. Kumaravel & A. Venkatachalam 4 229
Multilayered Fabric for Protective Application
◆ Scrutiny of Jute Fiber poly-Lactic Acid (PLA) M. Ramchandran, Sahas Bansal & 6 372
Resin Reinforced Polymeric Composite Pramod Raichurkar
● TESTING:
◆ Comparison of Handle Properties of Cotton Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally, 4 222
Fabrics Wove from Ring and Compact Spun Yarns M.M. Mourad, Ali AliHebeish &
from Different Pneumatic Compacting Systems Nermin M. Aly
◆ Studies on the Physical Properties of Spandex / Manjunath Burji, P. V. Kadole, 5 298
Polyester Air Covered Yarns M. Y. Gudiyawar & B. M. Patil
● TEXPERIENCE:
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

◆ Texperience-Humidification Plants - Some R. N. Yadav 1 28


Operational Norms
◆ Texperience - Enhancement in the Profits through V. K. Gupta 2 107
Structured Cost Reduction Mechanism
◆ Texperience - Discipline and Emerging Trends in R. N. Yadav 3 185
Management
◆ Texperience - Fashion Careers: finding the right Anju Tulshyan 4 243
fit for you
◆ Texperience - Some Suggestions on Cost Control S. Srinivasan 5 315
inTextile Processing Unit
◆ Texperience - Decorative Textiles Ashok Athalye 6 383

434 March - April 2016


NEWS

● TEXNOTE :
◆ Chapter 6: Wool based scaffolds Pallavi Modiwale, Rachana Shukla 1 30
& Ravindra Adivarekar
◆ Chapter 7: Textile scaffolds as tissue adhesives Santosh Biranje, Pallavi Modiwale, 2 111
Rachana Shukla &
Ravindra Adivarekar
◆ Chapter 8: Textile Scaffolds for Skin Recovery Pallavi Madiwale, Rachana Shukla, 3 191
and Replacement Ravindra Adivarekar
◆ Chapter 9: Textile Scaffolds as wound healing Trupti Sutar, Pallavi Madiwale, 4 246
bandages Rachana Shukla & R.V.Adivarekar
◆ Chapter 10: Textile scaffolds for bonerecovery Pallavi Madiwale, Rachana Shukla, 5 318
and replacement & R.V. Adivarekar
◆ Chapter 11: Textile scaffolds in Dentistry Pallavi Madiwale, Rachana Shukla,
& R.V.A divarekar 6 385

FORM IV (See Rule 8)


Statement about ownership and other particulars about Newspaper
JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION
1. Place of Publication : The Textile Association (India), Central Office 2,
Dwarkanath Mansion, Near Nirmal Nursing Home, 91,
Ranade Road Extension, Shivaji Park, Dadar (W),
Mumbai - 400 028.
2. Periodicity of Publication : Bi-Monthly (Six issues in a year)
3. Printer's Name : Shri Ashok Bagwe
Nationality : Indian
Address : Sundaram Art Printing Press
12, WadalaUdyogBhavan, Naigaum X Road, Wadala,
Mumbai - 400 031.
4. Publisher's Name : Shri J.B. Soma
Nationality : Indian
Address : 7-A/203, New DindoshiGiridarshan CHS. Ltd.
New Dindoshi MHADA Colony, Near NNP No. 1 & 2,
New Dindoshi, Goregaon (East),
Mumbai - 400 065
5. Editor's Name : Dr. Ravindra V. Adivarekar
Nationality : Indian
Address : Dept. of Fibres & Textile Processing Technology
Institute of Chemical Technology,
Matunga, Mumbai - 400 019
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

6. Name and address of individuals who own the : The Textile Association (India), Central Office
newspaper and partners holding more than 1% 72-A, Santosh, 2nd Floor, Dr. M.B. Raut Road,
of the total capital ShivajiPark, Dadar, Mumbai - 400 028

I, J.B. Soma, hereby declare that the particulars given are true to the best of my knowledge and belief.

Mumbai (Sd/-)
1st March 2016 J.B. SOMA
Publisher

March - April 2016 435


NEWS

The Textile Association (India) - Central Office


2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Next to Nirmal Nursing Home, 91 Ranade Road Extension,
Shivaji Park, Dadar (West), Mumbai - 400 028
Tel: 022-24461145/24474971, E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com

RESULTS FOR ATA PART I - PASSED/ATAHE CANDIDATES DECEMBER, 2015

Centre / Result PASS ATAHE


Ahmedabad 205/02, 2015/03, 2015/06, 2015/07, 2015/08 2015/01, 2015/05
Bhilwara 2015/11 2015/10, 2015/12, 2015/13,
Ichalkaranji NIL 2015/20, 2015/21, 2015/23
Mumbai NIL 2015/30

Total Registered Appeared Passed ATAHE PASS %


17 16 06 09 37.50

RESULTS FOR ATA PART II- DECEMBER, 2015

Centre / Result PASS ATAHE


Ahmedabad 2015/501, 2015/503, 2015/04, 2015/05, 2015/06, 2015/07 2015/02
Bhilwara Result with-held for non-receipt of Industrial Report
Ichalkaranji Result with-held for non-receipt of Industrial Report 2015/522
Mumbai Result with-held for non-receipt of Industrial Report

Total Registered Appeared Passed ATAHE PASS %


15 15 06 02 40.00

RESULTS OF ATA PART III - PASSED CANDIDATES DECEMBER, 2015


Centre Yarn Manufacture Fabric Manufacture Textile Wet Processing Knitting & Garment
Manufacture
Ahmedabad 2015/602, 2015/704 NIL NIL
2015/603, 2015/606
Bhilwara NIL NIL NIL NIL
Ichalkaranji NIL 2015/710 **
Mumbai NIL NIL NIL NIL
*Part II not completed
Candidate Yarn Manufacture Fabric Manufacture Textile Wet Processing Knitting & Total
Garment Mfg.
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Registered 07 06 NIL NIL 13


Appeared 07 06 NIL NIL 13
Passed 03 02 NIL NIL 05
Pass 38.46 %

Sd/- Sd/-
Dr. G.S. Nadiger Haresh B. Parekh
Co-Chairman, P. A. C. Hon. Gen. Secretary

436 March - April 2016


NEWS

The Textile Association (India) - Central Office


2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Next to Nirmal Nursing Home, 91 Ranade Road Extension,
Shivaji Park, Dadar (West), Mumbai - 400 028
Tel: 022-24461145/24474971, E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com

RESULTS FOR GMTA SECTION A/B/C PASSED CANDIDATES DECEMBER, 2015


Centre Section A Section B Section C
Ahmedabad 2015/AHA/01 2015/AHB/03, 2015/AHB/04 2015/AHC/01, 2015/AHC/02,
2015/AHC/03
Delhi NIL NIL 2015/DEC/10
Ichalkaranji NIL NIL NIL
Indore NIL NIL NIL
TOTAL 03 05 03

Candidates Section - A Section -B Section -C TOTAL


Registered 05 07 07 19
Appeared 02 05 04 11
Passed 01 02 04 07
Pass 63.63 %

RESULTS FOR GMTA SECTION D & E PASSED CANDIDATES DECEMBER, 2015


Centre Section D Section E
Yarn Manufacture Fabric Manufacture Textile Wet Processing Apparel Manufacture
Indore NIL 2015/IND/10, NIL NIL 2015/DEE/01
2015/IND/11

Candidates Section - D
(Fabric Manufacture) Section -E TOTAL
Registered 02 01 03
Appeared 02 01 03
Passed 02 01 03
Pass 100.00 %
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Sd/- Sd/-
Dr. G. S. Nadiger Haresh B. Parekh
Chairman, P. A. C. Hon. Gen. Secretary

March - April 2016 437


NEWS

The Textile Association (India) - Central Office


2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Next to Nirmal Nursing Home, 91 Ranade Road Extension,
Shivaji Park, Dadar (West), Mumbai - 400 028
Tel: 022-24461145/24474971, E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com

Schedule of A.T.A. Part - I, II & III December, 2016


ATA Part-I Time 10.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m. ATA Part-II Time: 2.00 p.m. to 5.00 p.m.
Date Subjects Date Subjects
23.12.2016 Basic Engineering Sciences 23.12.2016 Principles of Yarn Manufacture
24.12.2016 General Engineering 24.12.2016 Principles of Fabric Manufacture
25.12.2016 Textile Fibres 25.12.2016 Principles of Textile Wet Processing
26.12.2016 Elements of Textile Technology 26.12.2016 Principles of Textile Testing and Statistics
27.12.2016 Elements of Comp. and its Applications 27.12.2016 Industrial Organization and Management

ATA Part - III - Time: 10.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m.


Compulsory Subjects

23.12.2016 Elements of Technical Textiles


24.12.2016 Man-Made Fibre Technology

Optional Subjects

Date Yarn Manufacture Group Fabric Manufacture Group Textile Wet Knitting & Garment
Processing Group Manufacture Group

25.12.2016 Process Control in Yarn Mfg. Process Control in Fabric Mfg. Wet Processing-I Knitting Technology
26.12.2016 Modern Yarn Manufacture Modern Fabric Manufacture Wet Processing-II Garment Technology

1. Last Date for receiving applications at unit 25th July 2016.


2. Last Date for receiving all the applications with late fee at unit 25th August 2016.
3. Last Date for receiving applications at the central office 25th September 2016.

Sd/- Sd/-
Dr. G. S. Nadiger Haresh B. Parekh
Co-Chairman, P. A. C. Hon. Gen. Secretary
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

438 March - April 2016


NEWS

The Textile Association (India) - Central Office


2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Next to Nirmal Nursing Home, 91 Ranade Road Extension,
Shivaji Park, Dadar (West), Mumbai - 400 028
Tel: 022-24461145/24474971, E-mail: taicnt@gmail.com

Schedule of G.M.T.A. Examination December 2016


Section-A Time 10.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m. Section-B Time: 2.00 p.m. to 5.00 p.m.
Date Subject No.& Title Date Subject No.& Title

23.12.2016 A-1 Engineering Physics 23.12.2016 B-1 Yarn Manufacture


24.12.2016 A-2 Engineering Chemistry 24.12.2016 B-2 Fabric Manufacture
25.12.2016 A-3 Engineering Mathematics 25.12.2016 B-3 Textile Wet Processing
26.12 2016 A-4 General Engineering 26.12.2016 B-4 Apparel manufacture
27.12.2016 A-5 Professional Orientation 27.12.2016 B-5 Textile Testing

Section-C Time 10.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m.


Date Subject No.& Title

23.12.2016 C-1 Textile Fibre Science


24.12.2016 C-2 Polymer Technology
25.12.2016 C-3 Textile Engineering Mechanics
26.12.2016 C-4 Applied Statistics
27.12.2016 C-5 Data Management and Information System

Section-D Time: 2.00 p.m. to 5.00 p.m.


Date Yarn Manufacture Fabric Manufacture Text. Wet Processing Apparel Manufacture

23.12.2016 Short Staple Yarn Mfg. Advanced Fab. Manufacture Wet Proc-Pre Treat. Apparel & Bleaching
Technology
24.12.2016 Long Stap& other Knitting Technology Wet Proc.-Dyeing Supply Chain
Yarn Mfg. Mange in Apparel Mfg.
25.12.2016 Engg Design & Engg Design of Fab. Wet Proc-Printing & Apparel
Yarn Structure Structure Finishing Merchandising
26.12.2016 Process &Qual Process Control & Qual. Analytical Chem. In Garment
Management & Yarn Mfg Mrkt in Fab. Mfg. Textiles Proce. Tech.
27.12.2016 Man-made Fibre Fabric Structure & Design Proce&Qual Manage Process In Wet Proce.
Technology Control& Quality Manage
in Apparel Mfg.
Optional Papers
28.12.2016 Specialty & High Non-Woven Technology ColourTehory & Social & Trade
Performance Yarns(s) Col.Matching Compliances
29.12.2016 Silk Reeling & Technical Textiles Effluent Treat & Garment Acces. &
Throwing Technology Eco Friendly Proce. Fashion Forecasting
30.12.2016 Quality &Envir. System Quality & Environment Quality & Environ Visual
in Yarn Mfg. Systems In Fab. Mfg. System in Wet Proc. Merchandising

Section - E Time 10.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m.


Date Subject No & Title

26.12.2016 E-1 Industrial Engg& Mill Management


Journal of the TEXTILE Association

27.12.2016 E-2 Energy Environment & Efficiency in Textiles


Optional Papers
28.12.2016 EOD-1 International Trade Management
29.12.2016 EOD-2 Control Systems in Textile Machines
30.12.2016 EOD-3 Entrepreneurship Development
1. Last Date for receiving applications at unit 25th July 2016.
2. Last Date for receiving all the applications with late fee at unit 25th August 2016.
3. Last Date for receiving applications at the central office 25th September 2016.
Sd/- Sd/-
Dr. G.S. Nadiger Haresh B. Parekh
Co-Chairman, P. A. C. Hon. Gen. Secretary

March - April 2016 439


FORTHCOMING EVENTS

INDIA The Textile Association (India) - Mumbai Unit organises


Garmek - An exhibition for Garment, Textile International Conference on "Make in India"
Machine & Accessories Date : 01st & 2nd December, 2016
Date : 06th-08th August, 2016 Venue : Hotel The Lalit, Mumbai, Sahar Airport Road,
Venue : Sanskar Kendra, Opp. NID, Paldi, Andheri (East), Mumbai - 400 059 India
Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India Contact : Hon. Secretary
Contact : Adworld Communications, The Textile Association (India) - Mumbai Unit
86-D, DLF Model Town, 1st Floor, Amar Villa, Behind Villa Diana, Flat No. 3,
Sector-11B, Faridabad - 121 006 86, College Lane, Off Gokhale Road,
M. : +91-9312069048, 7065503055, Near Portuguase Church, Maher Hall,
9821170104, 8090202150 Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 India
E-mail : mktg@igmatexindia.com Tel. : 91-22-2432 8044 / 2430 7702
Website : www.igmatexindia.com Fax : 91-22-2430 7708
E-mail : taimumbaiunit@gmail.com, taimu@mtnl.net.in
World Textile Conference -2 Website : www.textileassociationindia.com
Organized by The Textile Association (India) -
Central Office ITME 2016
Date : 16th &17thSeptember, 2016 The Integrated Textile & Garment Manufacturing Tech-
Venue : Hotel Sahara Star, Opp. Domestic Airport, nologies Showcase
Vile Parle (E), Mumbai, India Date : 03rd to 08th December, 2016
Contact : Hon. Gen. Secretary Venue : Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre,
The Textile Association (India) Goregaon (E), Mumbai, India
2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Near Nirmal Contact : Executive Director
Nursing Home, 91, Ranade Road Extension, India ITME Society,
Shivaji park, Dadar (W), 1210/1211, Dalamal Tower, A wing, 12th Floor,
Mumbai - 400 028 India Plot No.211, Nariman Point, Mumbai- 400 021.
Tel. : 91-22-2446 1145 India
Fax : 91-22-2447 4971 Tel. : +91-022-2202 0032, 2282 8138
E-mail : taicnt@gmail.com Fax : +91-022-2285 1578
Website : www.textileassociationindia.org E-mail : itme@itme-india.com
Website : www.itme@itme-india.com
International Conference on Technical Textiles and
Nonwovens (ICTN) ABROAD
Date : 10th-12th November, 2016 SDC International Design Competition in partnership with
Venue : Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi Shanghai University of Engineering Science (SUES)
Hauz Khas, New Delhi - 110 016 (The last date for submitting the design boards is Saturday,
Contact : Department of Textile Technology, 13th August, 2016)
IIT Delhi, New Delhi - 110 016 Date : 23rd November, 2016
M. : Prof. R. Alagirusamy -+91-9818133350, E-E-mail Venue : Shanghai, China
: alagiru@gmail.com Contact : Mrs. VaishaliDeokar
M. : Dr. Apurba Das - +91-9871648134, Promotions and Communication Manager
E-mail : apurbadas65@gmail.com The society of Dyes and Colourists
Fax : +91-11-2658 1103, (Education Charity) 208, Narmada Building,
M. : +91 9909904179 Laxmi Industrial Estate, Vartak Nagar, Pokharan Road
E-mail : ictn2016.iitd@gmail.com No. 1, Thane (West), Thane - 400 606 India
Tel. : +91-022-65346365
Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Website : www.textileconferenceiitd.com
M.: +91 9004975533
Yarn, Fabric & Accessories - Trade Show 2016 E-mail : sdc@sdc.org.in
Website : www.sdc.org.uk
Date : 23th to 26thNovember, 2016
Venue : NSIC Exhibition Centre, Okhla,
New Delhi, India Every effort is made to ensure that the
Contact : Abhishek Sharma - M.: +91-9810872914 information given is correct. You are however,
E-mail : asharma@yfatradeshow.com advised to re-check the dates with the
M. : Ankur Goel - +91-9212707924 organizers, for any change in schedule, venue
Website : www.yfatradeshoe.com
etc., before finalizing your travel plans..

440 March - April 2016

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