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DESIGN OF UNUSUAL COLLARS

Conference Paper · November 2010

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International Joint Conference on
Environmental and
Light Industry Technologies
November 18-19, 2010

• Home
• Plenary Session
• ICDEEE Session
• GCTW Session
• ISITD Session

Impressum
A publication of Rejtõ S�ndor Faculty of Light Industry and Environmental Engineering, �buda
University.

ISBN
978-615-5018-08-4

The conference is organized as a part of Hungarian Scientific Season.

Venue
�buda University
Doberd� �t 6,
H-1034 Budapest, Hungary

Contact
Ildik� P�sztor
E-mail

Welcome from the General Chair

It is my great pleasure to welcome all of you to the Conference
of Rejtõ S�ndor Faculty of Light Industry and Environmental
Engineering. This conference is a joint conference, because it
represents the specializations of our faculty.
This conference consists of the following events:

• ICDEEE ("International Conference for the Development

of Environmental Engineering Education" organized by
the International Council of Environmental Engineering
Education)
• GCTW (Graphic Communications Technology Workshop
organized by the Institute of Media Technology and
Light Industry Engineering)
• ISITD (International Symposium on Innovative
Technologies and Design organized by the Institute of
Product Design and the Quality Control Group)

The objective of this conference is to introduce the scientific

works of our colleagues and participants. I hope it will be
successful and useful.
I would like to thank the work of the organizers.
I wish everybody a fruitful work and a pleasant time during the
conference.

Prof. Dr. habil Istv�n Patk�

Dean
Committees

PATRON: Prof. Dr. Imre Rudas, Rector, �buda University

GENERAL CHAIR: Dr. Istv�n Patk�, Dean, RKK

SECRETARY: Dr. Hosam Bayoumi Hamuda

ORGANIZING COMMITTEE: Dr. �kos Borb�ly, Dr. Csaba

Horv�th, Dr. M�rta Kisfaludy, Dr. Zolt�n Koczor

COORDINATOR: Ildik� P�sztor

Website
http://rkk.uni-obuda.hu/ijcelit_2010

© RKK �buda University 2010

International Joint Conference on
Environmental and
Light Industry Technologies
November 18-19, 2010

• Home
• Plenary Session
• ICDEE Session
• GCTW Session
• ISITD Session

Impressum
A publication of Rejtõ Sándor Faculty of Light Industry and Environmental Engineering, Óbuda
University.

ISBN
978-615-5018-08-4

The conference is organized as a part of Hungarian Scientific Season.

Venue
Óbuda University
Doberdó út 6,
H-1034 Budapest, Hungary

Contact
Ildikó Pásztor
E-mail

ISITD Session
THE eLiTA PROJECT: WEB-BASED EDUCATION PLATFORM FOR
TEXTILE STUDIES
Zoran STJEPANOVIC, Simon HARLOCK, Mirela BLAGA, Simona
JEVŠNIK, Andreja RUDOLF
COMPARISON OF BODY MEASUREMENTS BETWEEN CROATIAN
AND HUNGARIAN GIRLS
Darko UJEVIC, Lajos SZIROVICZA, Žaklina DOMJANIC, Renata
HRŽENJAK, Ksenija DOLEŽAL, Marianna HALÁSZ

MODULARITY AND TRANSFORMABLE OBJECTS

Géza Csire

IMPLEMENTATION OF THE SUSTAINABLE APPROACH IN

FASHION DESIGN
Lívia KOKAS PALICSKA

SPECIAL APPLICATION OF 3D HUMAN MODELING BASED

CAD/CAM SYSTEMS FOR CLOTHING INDUSTRY
János SOMLÓ, Marianna HALASZ, Péter TAMÁS

ANALISYS OF SHEAR BEHAVIOURS OF WOVEN FABRICS WITH

IMAGE PROCESSING
Bidour AL-GAADI, Marianna HALASZ

ANALYSIS OF FABRICS AND SEAMS IN AIRBAGS

Darko UJEVIC, Stana KOVACEVIC, Slavenka PETRAK, Lajos
SZIROVICZA, Marianna HALÁSZ, Žaklina DOMJANIC

THE CONNECTION OF ECO-DESIGN AND THE CARBON

SEQUESTRATION OF WOOD-BASED PRODUCTS
Ágnes LAKATOS

Black Magic; The Present and the Future Application of Oxidized

and Carbon Fibers
Zsigmond Balázs, Szabó Rudolf

TECHNOLOGY PLATFORM FOR THE RENEWING OF HUNGARIAN

TEXTILE AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY (TEXPLAT)
Katalin Mathe

A NEW FIBRE: POLYLACTIC ACID (PLA)

Judit BORSA

CORSET AND CLOTHING PHISIOLOGY

Orsolya Nagy Szabó

ORGANIC PACKAGING DESIGN

Anita Magdolna Szabó

DEVELOPMENT OF A NEW EXAMINATION METHOD OF THE

COEFFICIENT OF FRICTION OF TEXTILES
Gabriella OROSZLÁNY

GAME4MANAGER – E-LEARNING GAME

Andrea Németh
ENHANCEMENT OF THE MACHINING OF SOLID WOOD PARTS
FOR UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE
Tibor PAPP, Zsolt KOVÁCS

SAP QUALITY MODUL AT COATS GLOBAL

Gergely ZSIGRI

DEFINITION OF STANDARDIZED LIFETIME AND USAGE IN

PRACTICE
Tibor GREGÁSZ, Márta PATAKI

SUPPORTING THE EFFICIENCY AND EFFECTIVENESS OF

HIGHER EDUCATION MARKETING WITH QUALITY MANAGEMENT
TOOLS
Zoltán KOCZOR, Vera GÖNDÖR

KNITTED FABRICS IN TECHNICAL AND MEDICAL TEXTILES

Károly LÁZÁR

QUALITY MANAGEMENT METHODS IN ERGONOMIC DESIGN

Péter György HORVÁTH, Zsolt KOVÁCS

THE MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF THE

FABRICS TREATED BY ß-CYCLODEXTRIN
Silva KREŠEVIC VRAZ, Jelka GERŠAK, Bojana VONCINA

DEVELOPMENT OF A COMPETITIVE 3D SKI-JUMPER SUIT

PROTOTYPE
Andreja RUDOLF, Simona JEVŠNIK, Andrej CUPAR, Vojko
POGACAR, Zoran STJEPANOVIC

TEACHING TEXTILE PRODUCTS 3D PROTOTYPING IN MODERN

TEXTILE EDUCATION
Andreja RUDOLF, Zoran STJEPANOVIC, Simona JEVŠNIK

EXPERMENTAL MODULES IN DESIGN

Márta Kisfaludy

DESIGN OF UNUSUAL COLLARS

Zlatina KAZLACHEVA, Magdalena PAVLOVA

TAILORING TODAY AND IN THE PAST

HOTTÓ ÉVA

PATTERNS FOR CORSET WEARING CHILDREN

Orsolya Nagy Szabó, András Koleszár

IMPROVEMENTS USING THE RESULTS OF GRADUATE CAREER

TRACK SYSTEM
Vera GÖNDÖR, Zoltán KERTÉSZ, Zoltán KOCZOR
TOOL FOR PRODUCT DESIGN: NEW METHOD OF DATA
DISSEMINATION BETWEEN MATERIAL RESEARCHERS AND
PRODUCT DESIGNERS
Zoltán KOCZOR, Katalin NÉMETH ERDODI, Vera GÖNDÖR,
Zoltán KERTÉSZ

SHIELDING PROPERTIES OF TEXTILES AGAINST

ELECTROMAGNETIC RADIATION
Katalin Németh Erdõdi, Tibor Gregász

TRANSPORTATION DESIGN FOR ALL

Zita Farkas

INTEGRATING INTERNET APPLICATION IN TO THE WORKFLOW

FOR COSTUMISATION OF TEXTILE PRODUCTS
Dragoljub NOVAKOVIC, Nemanja KAŠIKOVIC, Gojko VLADIC

© RKK Óbuda University 2010

 International Joint Conference on Environmental and Light Industry Technologies
18-19 November 2010, Budapest, Hungary
Óbuda University

DESIGN OF UNUSUAL COLLARS

Zlatina KAZLACHEVA1, Magdalena PAVLOVA2

1
Trakia University, Technical College of Yambol, Bulgaria
2
Technical University of Sofia, College of Sliven, Bulgaria

Abstract:
An investigation of the design of unusual collars, which are formed around oval, square, trapezium, or
pentagon necklines in lady’s clothing, is presented in the paper. The study aim is creating of a new
mode for correct and facilitating design of these kinds of collars. Similar investigations were made for
collars with lapels, shawl or other design, formed around traditional V necklines, shaped with straight
or curved lines. The approach for previous investigations is used in the present investigation. It
includes a new depending, deduced with the use of multiple regressions and new geometrical drawing.
The results of the presented study and the new geometrical mode give possibilities for facilitating and
correct design constructing collars with aesthetic form and shape position toward bodice, and
creation of models variety around oval, square, trapezium, or pentagon necklines. The new design
constructional mode is suitable for both traditional manual and drawing with CAD systems.

Keywords:
Design, clothing constructing, collars, different types of necklines.

1 INTRODUCTION
The collars often are the center of the compositon in the garments and designers often create new
models only by changes of the collar forms. The lapel, shawl collars, or other shape of collars usually
are designed around V necklines. Sometimes in lady's clothing these kinds of collars are formed
around oval (like first model in figure 1), square, trapezium (like second model in figure 1), or
pentagon necklines. The paper presents an investigation of design constructing of collars around these
necklines, designed overall unusual collar form. The study aim is creating of a new geometrical mode
for correct and facilitating design of these kinds of collars.

2 EXPERIMENTAL METHODOLOGY
The constructional mode by the system M. Müller + Sohn, which is used for design of collars around
V necklines [1], can be used for design constructing collar around oval, square, trapezium, or pentagon
necklines. The construction is presented in figure 2. The neckline can be extra sunk. The segments 1÷2
= 2÷3 = 1,5-2,0 cm define the collar stand height by the shoulders. They are parallel to the back
middle line. The segments 4÷5 = 5÷6 = 1÷2 + 1,0 define the collar stand height by the back middle.
Points 2 and 5 are connected with a curved line. Points 3 and 6 are connected with a curved line, too.
The segment 7÷8 defines the tangent line to the neckline in the point of intersection between the
neckline and shoulder. Point 7 is situated on a horizontal line which is located 8-10 cm over the bust
dart point. 8 is the point of interception of the front neckline and shoulder. For design of collars around
oval, trapezium, or pentagon neckline point 7 have to be located to the left than point 8. The segment
7÷8 is in vertical position if the neckline is designed in square form. The front neckline is formed with
a curved line, formed oval form, like the model on figure 2, or combination from curved or straight
lines, created square, trapezium or pentagon form. An arc is drawn with centre point 7 and radius 7÷8.
On the arc: 8÷9 = 9÷10 = 1÷2 = 2÷3. 8÷9 and 9÷10 defines the collar stand height by the shoulders,
too. The distance 8÷11 defines the collar width by the shoulders.

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International Joint Conference on Environmental and Light Industry Technologies
18-19 November 2010, Budapest, Hungary
Óbuda University

Figure 1: Collars around oval and trapezium necklines

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 International Joint Conference on Environmental and Light Industry Technologies
18-19 November 2010, Budapest, Hungary
Óbuda University

The back is held position over the front as the distance between points 3 and 10 is 0,75 cm, and the
front and back shoulders are crossed each other in the point 11. The distance 5÷12 defines the collar
width in the back middle. The point 13 defines the collar beginning on the the neckline. The curve
10÷14 is the same the curve 8÷13, as the segment 7÷10 is the tangent line to 10÷13 in the point 10.
The line of collar connection is curve 14÷10÷3÷6. The collar edge is drawn with a curved line
between points 12 and 14 through point 11.

Figure 2: Collar design constructing by the use of the system M. Müller + Sohn
It is seen in the construction in figure 2 that the location on the back over the front defines the collar
slope, and if the other way for determinarion of the slope of the collar will be found, the design
constructional mode will be facilitated. In investigations, presented in [2], like in traditional
costructional mode for lapel and shawl collar with straight rollline, an arc replace the position on the
back over the front in the determination of the collar slope. The same approach is used for facilitation

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 International Joint Conference on Environmental and Light Industry Technologies
18-19 November 2010, Budapest, Hungary
Óbuda University

of the construction in figure 2. In figure 3 points 7 and 9 are connected with a straight line, and the line
is extended over point 9. An arc is drawn with center point 10 and radius 10÷6 between point 6 and
extended line 7÷9. On the arc: 6÷a = 5÷6. Distance 6÷a defines the collar stand height in the collar
middle. The arc reaches extended line 7÷9 in point b. If the distance a÷b is determinated with a
formila, which is accurate for different measures of design and constructional elements, the
construction will become facilitating.
The distance a÷b is defined by the central angle β of the arc a÷b depending on collar width by the
shoulders – distance 8÷11 and the angle between line 7÷9 and a vertical lin drawn througt point 7 –
angle α. The dependence for determination of angle β is found by the use of the method of multiple
linear regression.

Figure 3: Determination of the collar slope with an arc. Regression model. Dependent and
independent variables

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 International Joint Conference on Environmental and Light Industry Technologies
18-19 November 2010, Budapest, Hungary
Óbuda University

For the investigation two constructional bases of lady's jacket are drawn by two different
methodologies [1, 3] for two different size. With the use of the constructional bases the constructions
from the type, presented in figure 3, are designed for different combination of values: α = 4,76-23,65°
(The value of angle α depends of the location of point 7 on the horisontal line, which is drawn on 9 cm
over the bust dart point.); the extra neckline depth is 0-2,0 cm; the collar stand height by the back
middle is 2,5-3,0 cm; the collar width by the shoulders is W = 4,0-10,0 cm.
In this investigation traditonal linear regression formula (1) aquires mode (2).
Y = b0 + b1 ⋅ X 1 + b2 ⋅ X 2 (1)

Y is dependent variable, X1 and X2 – independent variables, b0 – constant, b1 and b2 – slopes.

β = b0 + b1 ⋅ W + b2 ⋅ α (2)

β, ° is the central angle of the collar slope arc (arc a÷b in figure 3) , W, cm – the collar width by the
shoulders, α, ° – the roll line angle (the angle between segment 7÷9 and vertical line).

3 RESULTS
The statistical analysis is made with the use of the software STATISTICA 7 [4]. The linear regression
results are b0 = 14,45538, b1 = 1,19105, b3 = -0,65842. The accuracy of the regression model is
provided by the values of p < 0,0000, R-square = 0,82119082, Std. Error of estimate = 2,4755.
On the base of the statistical analysis formula (2) assumes form (3).
β = 14,5 + 1,2 ⋅ W − 0,65 ⋅ α (3)
The linear interaction between dependent and independent variables is presented in figure 4.
β
,
°

26
22
18
14
α
,
°

10
W, cm 6
2

Figure 4: Linear interaction between dependent and independent variables

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 International Joint Conference on Environmental and Light Industry Technologies
18-19 November 2010, Budapest, Hungary
Óbuda University

4 DESING CONSTRUCTING MODE

After defining the collar slope with the use of formula (3), the new geometrical mode of design
constructing collars around oval, square, trapezium, or pentagon necklines is developed. The new
mode construction is presented in figure 5.

Figure 5: New design constructional mode

In figure 5 point 1 is situated on the horizontal line which is located on 8-10 cm over the bust dart
point. 2 is the point of interception of the front neckline and shoulder after the neckline sinking if it is
necessary for the model. For design of collars around oval, trapezium, or pentagon neckline point 1 is
located to the left than point 2. The segment 1÷2 is in vertical position if the neckline is designed in
square form. Segment 1÷2 defines the tangent line to the neckline in the point of intersection between
the neckline and shoulder. The front neckline is formed with a curved line, formed oval form, or
combination from curved or straight lines, created square, trapezium (like the model in figure 5), or
pentagon form. An arc is drawn with centre point 1 and radius 1÷2. On the arc: 2÷3 = 3÷4 = 1,5-2,0
cm. Distances 2÷3 and 3÷4 define the collar stand height by shoulders. Points 1 and 3 are connected
with a straight line, which is extended over point 3. An arc is drawn to the right of line 1÷3 with centre
point 4 and radius, equal to the back neckline length after the neckline sinking if the neckline is sunk.
On the arc: Distance 5÷6 is defined by its centre angle by formula (3). Distance 6÷7 = 2÷3 + 1,0
determines the collar stand height by the back middle. Points 4 and 7 are connected with a curved line
and curve 4÷7 defines the collar connected line to the back neckline. A line, which is perpendicular to
4÷7 is drawn. On the new line: 7÷8 = 6÷7. Distance 7÷8 defines the collar stand height by the back
middle. Distance 8÷9 determines the collar width by the back middle. On the front shoulder distance
2÷10 define the collar width by the shoulders. The collar edge is drawn with a curved line between

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 International Joint Conference on Environmental and Light Industry Technologies
18-19 November 2010, Budapest, Hungary
Óbuda University

points 1 and 9 through point 10. The collar edge line shape depends from the model and fashion
trends. Points 1 and 4 are connected with a curved (like the line in the construction in figure 5) or
straight line, which is the same as the line of the neckline – 1÷2. The line 1÷4 defines the collar
connecting line to the front neckline.

5 CONCLUSIONS
The results of the presented study and the new geometrical mode give possibilities for facilitating and
correct design constructing collars with aesthetic form and shape position toward bodice, and creation
of models variety around oval, square, trapezium, or pentagon necklines. The new design
constructional mode is suitable for both traditional manual and drawing with CAD systems.

References
[1] System M. Müller + Sohn: SCHNITTECHNICK, RUNDSHAU FÜR INTERNATIONALE
DAMENMODE UND SCHNITT-TECHNIK, (1990-2007) , ISSN 0948-7980
[2] Kazlacheva, Zl.: FACILITATING METHODOLOGIES FOR DESIGN OF COLLARS WITH
LAPELS AND SHAWL COLLARS WITH DIMENSIONS, EQUAL OR LARGER
SHOULDERS, TEXTIL I OBLEKLO, (2008) NO. 5, PP. 2-6, ISSN 1310-912X
[3] Kazlacheva, Zl.: DESIGN CONSTRUCTING AND MODELING LADIES’JACKETS, TRAKIA
UNIVERSITY, TECHNICAL COLLEGE OF YAMBOL, ISBN 954-90573-3-X, YAMBOL,
BULGARIA, (1998)
[4] Hill, T. & Lewicki, P.: ELECTRONIC STATISTICS TEXTBOOK, AVAILABLE FROM
HTTP://STATSOFT.COM/TEXTBOOK/STATHOME.HTML ACCESSED: 2007

Corresponding author:
Zlatina KAZLACHEVA
Technical College of Yambol, Trakia University
Graf Ignatiev 38
8600, Yambol, Bulgaria
phone: +359 89 898284462 fax: +359 46 669183 e-mail: z_kazlacheva@abv.bg

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