Step 1: The enclosure will look something like this to begin with;

Note: I have found that the Eddystone line of Hammond enclosures are better for etching and
require less prep.
Step 2: Using a sanding block and 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper, wet sand* the enclosure to remove
all of the imperfections until it looks like this:

*tip: don’t use too much water when wet sanding, just a splash will do, rinse every so often to see
how you’re doing.

The enclosure should be completely smooth with no imperfections. You can also go over it with
800 grit paper to get it really smooth but I have found that this isn’t necessary most of the time.
Step 3: Rinse the enclosure with water then clean with Acetone and a paper towel to remove all of
the dirt, this is important!
Step 4: Your image that will become the etch resist should be printed in negative and also in
reverse. I use this paper (Polaroid Premium Gloss Photo Paper) printed on via a LaserJet printer, it
must be LaserJet and not Inkjet for the process to work. The reason for this is that the LaserJet ink
does not adhere to the Inkjet paper fully so you are able to transfer it to the enclosure with heat
(more about this later).
Step 5: Making sure not to touch the sanded surface of the enclosure (your fingers will leave
grease on it and this will affect the transfer), carefully lay the image face down on the enclosure
and get it lined up, you cannot undo this later! Stick it down with some paper masking tape to
keep it in place.
Step 6: With your iron on full heat (but
no steam!), place the iron on the
enclosure so it is covering as much of
the design as possible and leave it for
30-60secs. This is to initially bond the
ink to the enclosure. The aluminum
will heat up incredibly quickly so be
careful when touching the enclosure!

Step 7: After the 60 secs or so is up,

start to move the iron in circular
motions over the design, do not use
too much pressure or the ink will
smudge. You will be able to see where
the ink is being transferred, make sure
you are very thorough at this stage; I
usually will do this for at least 10 mins
on an enclosure this size, longer on
larger ones.

Step 8: If all has gone to plan

it should look something like
this;
Step 9: Wait for the enclosure to cool and carefully peel off the transfer paper, you should have
something like this, you can see now the exposed areas, these will be the parts that are etched;
Step 10: Tape up the sides of the enclosure with parcel tape; this is to stop the side being etching
in the next step. Some of the solution does invariably work its way under the tape and etches the
sides of the box but simply sanding the sides down afterwards can remove this, I use 120 grit for
that job which works in no time!
Step 11: WARNING! The strong base used to etch the enclosure will burn your skin and be really
quite unpleasant if you spill it on yourself, you must wear thick rubber gloves when handling it and
suitable eye protection.

I use Caustic Soda (also known as Sodium Hydroxide or NaOH), I find that it gives a sharper,
cleaner etch than the more common Ferric Chloride and as a bonus it will clean your drains when
you pour it away! ;) I use this.

To make the solution I measure out 100ml of water and pour this into a plastic container. I then
add 40g of the Caustic Soda*, you will need to stir it around a bit to help it dissolve. DO NOT add
water to Caustic Soda as this creates a violent reaction, always adds Caustic Soda to water.

*Results will vary depending on the type of NaOH you have been able to source, there is an
element of trial and error, the quantities that I have stated are what works with the materials I
use.

Once you have your solution, it’s time to start etching!

Step 12: With your enclosure in a plastic container, use a pipette to apply the Caustic Soda
solution to the enclosure. I use this method as you can control where to apply to the solution if
you are only etching part of the enclosure.

I have experimented with submerging the enclosure into the solution (as is commonly done with
Ferric etching) but the reaction was far stronger and the toner mask was quickly eaten way, I
would not recommend it when etching with NaOH.

Something to note, when using Caustic Soda you cannot use nail varnish to cover any areas where
the toner has not transferred, something commonly done with Ferric etching, the Caustic Soda
solution will eat straight through it.

Once applied you should get a reaction creating a fizz on the exposed parts of the enclosure, be
careful at this point as the fumes given off aren’t good for you, step away from enclosure and be
sure to do this in a well ventilated area. When you have finished applying the solution, leave it for
5 mins.
Step 13: There are various schools of thought on the next part; I will explain what I do.

I have found it is better to keep the solution moving as it helps the etching process, also referred
to as agitating. To do this I use a paintbrush and continually move the solution around the surface,
after I have done this for around 5 mins I will use the brush to wipe off all the solution from the
surface. At this point I then inspect it to see how deep the etch is, cleaning it lightly with a paper
towel will also help you to see how deep the etch has gone.

I will typically repeat the pipette application and brush agitation process 3-4 times until I am happy
with the depth of the etch. It should be easy to spot where the toner is beginning to be eaten
away; I stop etching as soon as this happens.
Step 14: Once you have finished the etching process, rinse the enclosure under the tap, remember
that any traces of the NaOH/Caustic Soda could be harmful so don’t take your gloves off! Use
Acetone and a paper towel to remove the toner mask, you need to be fairly liberal with the
Acetone but I have found this to be easier than sanding it off. Alternatively some wire wool and
soap will work.

Hopefully you will be left with a nice etched enclosure!

Step 15: This step is not necessary but I find it really helps the etch come to life!

Tape up the sides of the box and using enamel spray paint, spray over the etch, trying to get an
even coat.
Step 16: Let the paint dry overnight then using your sanding block and 1200 grit (or above, you
don’t want a rough grit as this can reduce the contrast of raised and etched areas) paper, flat sand
the enclosure until only the paint in the etched part of the enclosure is left.

That’s it! You can also finish it off with clear spray lacquer if want to, this will help keep it shiny as
the aluminum will dull after a few days when exposed to air.