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Handicraft Art

Having witnessed a prosperous cultural legacy, the city of Rajkot is a major regional centre for the
arts, with many spots and places dedicated to the section of performing arts inside the city. Silver
craftsmen and goldsmiths hailing from the Soni community have, since long, worked on fascinating
designs and intricate patterns of jewellery. These people have also been patronized in the past by
royal families and currently by the affluent business communities in Rajkot. Hemu Gadhvi
Natyagraha is one of the first non-profit regional theatres, and is rich with history and dedicated to
the famous Gujarati Play.
Rajkot is also well known for its textile printing industry, and these textiles, embellished with colourful
and artsy embroidery are the distinctive beacons of different communities who make and wear them.
The most popular niche of people are the craftsmen who earlier catered to royalty, and now utilize
their expertise in metal and wood carving to create small and ornamental articles. Following is a list
of the different handicrafts of Rajkot :
Textile Traditions :
o Embroidery
o Block Printing
o Metal Crafts
o Silver Jewellery
o Stone Finesse
o Wooden Treasure
o Wood with metal embossing

Gujarat is blessed with rich and vibrant tradition of


Handicrafts. It is widely differing in its proportions of its
patterns to the element of wonderful exquisite Artifacts in
various forms. It stands unique with diverse arts and crafts –
a mixed combination with aesthetic appeal.
Needlework Pottery
Tie and dye -
Woodwork
Bandhani
Bead work Textile culture
Patola Zari
Jewellery Temple culture
Furnishings

Needlework

Needlework of Gujarat is famous world over for its elegance and accuracy. Embroidery is
Gujarat's quintessential handicraft and many of the artisans are wives of herdsmen, nomads and
agriculturists battling for a second income. Ari bharat, appliqué work are unique with its
traditional skills. Toran is the most common embroidered doorway decoration with hanging
flaps, which is supposed to ventilate good luck. Pachhitpatis (embroidered frieze) are hanged
from the corners as a welcome symbol to the visitors. Chaklas (embroidered square pieces) are
used as furniture covers while Bhitiya is the impressive wall hanging. Abhala (mirror inset
embroidery) has now become a part of the ethnic chic fashion world, where small mirror discs
are fixed with closely worked silken thread. Usually the mirror work is done on a dark
background with motifs like flowers, creepers, petals, etc. The motifs are inspired by daily life;
ancient belief and rituals but they vary from place to place and are passed down over the
centuries.

Tie and dye - Bandhani


The tie-dyed fabrics of Gujarat are the best produced in India and is demanded all over the world. Bandhani, (the tye
and dye fabric) is famous for their intricate designs and patterns. Used as wedding outfits called as 'gharchola odhni'
and sarees, they grace every Gujarati family women. The bandhinis are also brocaded and with fine thread zari work.
Also known as 'Bandhej', it is produced on superfine cotton 'mulmul', muslin sometimes combined with gold checks
and motifs worked in the 'jamdani' technique. Bandani of Jamnagar, Mandvi and Bhuj are famous all over the world.

Dyeing is a hereditary art. In the past cloth was dyed in colours extracted from trees and flowers. The Sarkhei suburb
of Ahmedabad was one of the indigo manufacturing and exporting centres.
Bead work
Beadwork is another Gujarati specialty from Khambhat and Saurashtra. Motifs and patterns are dictated by the
technique of putting two and three beads together. Beadwork objects are used in wall decorations, potholders, etc. The
best beadwork is produced by the 'kathis' (tribals). Worked mostly on a white background they use colours that are
vibrant with very distinct patterns. Beadwork 'torans' are usually placed over doorways.

Patola
One of the finest handwoven sarees from Gujarat. The famous Patola of Patan is known for its colorful geometrical
pattern, which are strikingly beautiful. The unique tie and weave method of Patola results in identical patterns on both
the sides of the fabric.

Jewellery
The art of making jewellery and precious stone-cutting and processing is a traditional handicraft of Gujarat. The folk
jewellery of excellent designs, characteristic of each village and each community is a typical art of Gujarat. Gold, Silver,
Iron and brass works are antiquity of Gujarat.

Furnishings
Gujarat offers a wide range of furnishings from simple and elegant cushion covers to quilts and bedcovers in a wide
range of styles. Pleasantly embroidered and with micro mirrors, they have geometrical or animal motifs, patch worked,
etc. Quilts are another popular handicraft item. They come in a variety of styles from simple geometric designs to more
complex patterns. Other utility items like woven and Kalamkari table covers, tablemats and block printed bed land table
linen. The traditional floorspread ‘namdas’ and ‘dhurries’ from Kutch, is woven with camel and goat hair and even
wool and cotton.

Pottery
The oldest ancient craft and famous Pottery from Gujarat is popular as it achieve excellence with traditional crafts.
Village potters turn wonders of clay into artifact pieces that attracts. Clay utensils are made which are used by village
homes even today. Terracotta toys are another craft of the potters of Kachchh, but it is in the Aravallis and Chhota
Udepur tribal lands that potters make the famous long necked terracotta figurines of the Gora Dev (tribal horse God),
said to protect crops, villages and families from evil spirits, evil intentions and natural calamities.
Potter communities also specialise in mud wall paintings, and you could get plaques, inset with mirrors, made for your
own house or garden decor from Kutchh.

Woodwork
The lacquered furniture of Sankheda near Vadodara, another important handicraft industry has become synonymous
with Southern Gujarat. The furniture and woodcrafts of Surat, Kutchh and Saurashtra are also popular. Minakari
furniture from Rajkot, is as attractive as Sankheda furniture.

Woodcarving is an ancient art of the state, which has attained a very high standard of technical skill. Some of the best
examples of woodcarvings are found in temples and houses in many parts of Gujarat. Saurashtra and Sanked in the
Vadodara district are also known for their lacquer work.

Textile culture
Gujarat has a unique dress culture which evolves the Textile culture with its extravagant quality with traditional and
modern design patterns. The Rogan, zari, Tye and die and exclusive Patolas are the state’s graceful textile culture
patterns. Peacock motifs, geometrical patterns, ikat weaving, akrakh work are some of the excellent influence with
traditional and modern designs.

Zari
The Zari industry of Surat is one of the oldest handicrafts whose origin can be traced to the Mughal period. The history
of the 'zari' (gold embroidery) industry of Surat dates back to the Mughal period. Surat is one of the biggest and most
significant Zari manufacturing centres in India.

The principal types of products are real gold and silver threads, imitation gold and silver threads, embroidery such as
the 'Chalak', the 'Salama', the 'Kangari', the 'Tiki', mainly the Ring and the 'Katori' for modifying in the Kinkhab (cloth
of gold) and the Zari border weaving, embroidery, laces, caps, turbans, saris, and blouse pieces. Gold and silver threads
are commonly used for weaving the 'kinkhab'. The Gharchola and Panetar (dresses worn during weddings) are
exceptional pieces with zari work.

Temple culture
The excavations at the Harappan sites in Gujarat at Lothal, Rangpur, Rozdi etc. have brought to light some of the very
ancient handicraft articles. Temple curtains have Goddess Durga riding tiger a well as other illustrations from Puranic
legends. It is heavily decorated and embroidered decoration hung over the entrance and is considered a symbol of
warm welcome.
gurjari.gujarat.gov.in
gujarathandicrafts.in

Hand Block Printing

Gujarat dominated the seaborne cotton trade through ages and is still today a major producer of
block prints. The combination of printing with mordant dyeing is typical of the technique in many
parts of Gujarat with hand carved woven blocks and prints on fabric. The ‘Ajarakh’ resist printing of
Dhamadka and Ajarakhpur in Kutch is well known. The ‘Matani-Pachhedi’ used religious purpose
made by the ‘Devi Pujak’ community uses a combination of block printing for the outline of the
pattern and the painting of the mordents. Vegetable ‘prints from Dessa, Ahmedabad and Kutch,
‘Batik’ prints from Bhujpur, Mundra and Mandvi villages of Kutch and ‘Saudagiri’ Prints of
Ahmedabad are famous.

Salwar suits, shirts, kurtas, jackets, skirts, sarees, dupattas, dress-materials, furnishings like bed-covers,
pillow covers, table cloth, napkin set, curtains are some of the items made with unique hand block
printing.

Embroidery Work

Gujarat is known for its embroideries in immense variety of styles and techniques. These
embroideries communicate class and uniqueness. Each style is a distinct combination of stitches,
patterns and colors and rules for using them was shaped by historical socio-economic and cultural
features.

Gujarat is world renowned for its enormous variety of embroideries. Most of these were traditionally
stitched by rural communities, especially women. Embroideries from Gujarat are perfect in distribution of
colors, which flows from one color to another. The rich embroideries like ‘Ari’ and ‘soof’ from
Banaskantha, ‘Kathipa’ , ‘Mahajan’ , Kanbi’ , ‘Rabari’ embroideries from Jamnagar, Bhavnagar, Rajkot,
Junagadh regions of Saurashtra and ‘Ahir’ , ‘Mutwa’ , ‘Soof’ , ‘Neran’ , ‘Kharek’ embroideries from Kutch
district are famous. In Gujarat, women not only embroider their cholis and ghaghras but also items for
decorating their houses such as chaklas, Wall Hangings, Toran, Pillow Covers, Cushion Cover etc.

Tie and Dye Work

Bandhej or Bandhani is the area of royals. ‘Bandhani’ is said to be symbolic of girlhood, love and
marital happiness. The most intricate and refined ‘bandhani’ is made in Jamnagar and Kutch. A
bandhani garment was considered auspicious for the bride. One also finds the maids in the Ajanta
wall paintings wearing blouses of tie and die patterns. Tie and Die is one of the most widely
accepted and one of the very traditional methods of printing textiles in Gujarat. According to the
design and the motif, each pattern has its special significance. Chokidal is pattern of intricately
weaving a bandhani with a pebble. It primarily a pattern of square, elephants and other animals. And
Kambaliya is a design with a dotted pattern in the center and a different design along the border. In
the past there was also a design called bavan (52) bag.

Puppets and Stuff Toys

A puppet, originating from the Latin ‘pupa’ meaning doll, is literally a small scale figure usually with a
cloth body and hollow head that fits over and is moved by the hand. Though puppets have remained
in India as objects of art, entertainment and culture, puppetry seems to have been swallowed in the
whirlwind of time. These puppets are vibrantly coloured and beautifully hand painted.

Clay and Teracotta Work

The quintessential clay pots to a variety of clay figures and toys like horses, cows, bulls, buffaloes
are the items which are very essentially a part of Indian pottery. In Gujarat, tribes in the Dangs make
and worship their own clay gods.

Since pottery is made out of clay, which is an environment friendly and recyclable material, it is an art that
will survive the ravages of time!

Pithora Paintings

Pithora Paintings mean much more than colorful images hanging on the walls, for the tribes of
Rathwas, Bhilals, and Naykas of Gujarat. They signify the advent of an auspicious occasion like,
weddings, child birth, festivals, in the family or community, The Pithora paintings with their colours
and animated figures, mirror the sentiments of their creators.

The essence of a Pithora painting lies in its earthiness; everything from the theme to the execution has
the ethnicity of rural India. Even materials used are quite exotic: the colors are prepared by mixing
pigments with milk and liquor prepared from the auspicious Mahuda tree. This craft is practiced Chhota
Udaipur taluka of Vadodara District in Gujarat.

Leather Work

Leather craft is infinitesimal in shape, composition, pattern and décor. The traditional pieces are
more original, individualistic and colorful and largely embroidered. Fascinating articles are made out
of leather like, cushion covers, bags, fans, to name a few.

Wood Work

Wood carving is a famous and traditional craft of Gujarat. Temples and old houses provide the best
example of the richness of this craft with projecting balconies and floors of the mansions deeply
carved. Wooden boxes and chests were once major dowry items. Bhavnagar can boast of the
‘patara’, a bridal chest on wooden wheels. Pethapur has its carved blocks. But, there is no need to
pine for the past as doorframes, lintels, and shafts are available even now in Gurjari. Even inlay work
using coloured wood, horns and even commercially viable options like plastic are used in artifacts,
wooden plaques.

Bead Work

Gujarat is the centre for Bead Craft, also known as Moti Bharat, across India. Bead craft is the art of
making household decorative items like chaklas, Indhonis, Mangal kalash & nariyal and torans and
jewellery like necklaces, bangles, earrings etc. Motifs and patterns are dictated by the technique of
putting two or three beads together.

This art has originated from Saurashtra region, Rajkot, Bhavnagar, Amreli and Junagadh districts and it is
also practiced in Ahmedabad. Tribal artisans of Panchmahal and Vadodara districts are also making
traditional bead jewellery, ornaments when worked around solid objects such as coconuts and pot-rests it
takes a breath taking three dimensional forms. Bead craft is used for making home décor items. It is also
popular in the tribals of Dahod, Vadodara and Panchmahals.

Metal Work

Gujarat has been the home to metal work from as early as chalcolithic (copper, stone age).
Hammering, forging and casting have been the three major methods of metal work in Gujarat. The
beautiful metal articles are made in several parts of Gujarat which includes various metal sculptures,
statues, metal crafted decorative items, vases, utensils, ornaments, jewellery and metal furniture,
etc. They are distinguished by ornate and sophisticated designs, finesse and finishing. Metal work
from Gujarat has been famous since ages and has thus maintained its glory worldwide.

Woven Work

The original tradition involved silk x cotton woven yarn, which is now modified into rayon x cotton
woven yarn. Weaving is done mostly in stripes, ekat patterns and dotted designs. Use of bright
colours is synonymous with type of yardage. Width: 22” to 36”.

Applique and Patch work

Applique is one of the oldest and finest crafts of Gujarat. By using different patches of fabric,
beautiful forms of floral and animal designs are prepared for quilts, hangings, modern household
products and apparels. So by piecing cloth together as in quilts, different patterns are made by
applying cloth of different colors. Multicolored covering of jigsaw pieces formed of geometrical
shapes creating tensile tensile texture and visual treat, is the impression one gets while seeing an
applique or patchwork. Colorful and vivid shapes and forms of fabric patched together or on another
surface create the most attractive and vibrant textile products.

The art of decorating a textile product by applying fabric on fabric with the edges sewn down by stitching
can be termed as applique while patchwork is the art of sewing little patches of geometric shaped fabric
to form a textile pattern.

This craft is done in Saurashtra, Banaskantha, Patan and Kutch.

Mud Work

Clay craft is ingrained deeply into Gujarat’s ancient tradition and since then has continued to
enchant the world. Gujarat is known for its Terracotta, mud mirror work which has both scared as
well as aesthetic appeal. The wet clay molded in different shapes and sizes is an, artistic expression
of the vision and correlation of the society. Clay craft is also known in Gujarat as Contemporary Mud
work in which, attractive wall pieces with small mirrors are made in Kutch and Kheda districts of
Gujarat. Traditional clay utensils like pots, Tawadi, Plates, Bowls etc.,with hand paintings are made
in Kutch district. Votive Terracotta is famous of the tribals from Chhota Udaipur.

Rogan Painting

This craft is a form of surface embellishment and practiced for over hundred years, but now by only
a single family in Nirona, Kachchh. A special paste made of castor is used in this craft. Castor seeds
are hand-pounded to extract the oil and turned into a paste by boiling, Colored powder diluted in
water is then mixed with this. The pastes of different colors yellow, red, blue, green, black and
orange are stored in earthen-pots with water to prevent them from drying up. The kalam, an iron rod,
flat at both ends, is used to paint half the design with the support of the fingers of the left hand. It is
then impressed on the other half of the cloth by pressing the two halves together. As they were
inexpensive substitutes for embroidered textiles, they were popular alternative textiles for clothing.
Today, cushion covers, bed spreads, skirts, kurtas, curtains, tablecloths and wall hangings are
painted using this technique. Generally, geometrical motifs are preferred; motifs from nature such as
tree-of-life are very popular for wall hangings.

Tangaliya Work

Tangaliya a dotted woven textile of Surendranagar district, Saurashtra is found only in Gujarat, is
usually worn as a wraparound skirt by the women of the Bharwad shephered community. Tangalia
designs are used for preparing Shawl, Dupatta, Dress material and products of Home décor &
accessories such as bedsheets, pillow covers etc. The patterns formed during weaving process to
create design in dots for floral and geometrical motifs by using cotton or woolen yarn.

Kalamkari

Indian temples have been centers of art and architecture since ancient times. Each temple according
to geographic location has their own art style, motifs, representation of deities and their stories.
Clothes of the deities, their adornments and vibrant temple hangings have intensified the ambience
of these temples. The main textile art that evolves from the temples are depicted in the temple
hangings. These pieces of cloth are embroidered or painted with stories about the relevant God.

Although Gujarat is known for its exquisite embroidery, the lesser known art of Kalamkari is equally
appealing and unique. Kalamkari refers to a method of painting natural dyes onto cotton or silk fabric with
a bamboo pen or kalam. Kalamkari in Gujarat differs from that done in south with its central theme-the
Mataji and hence owning its name Mata Ni Pachedi.

Warli Painting

Warli painting is a form of painting done by artisans at the border of Gujarat. Warli painting is the
craft of tribal people. It is popular across India. The philosophy of a way of life, especially those of
tribal societies, is best depicted through colorful images. Folk imagination, beliefs and customs are
spontaneously expressed in these monochromatic tribal paintings. The whims and moods of tribal
life make for interesting themes, which is why Warli Paintings are much more than designs on walls
they are authentic depictions of a way of life. From the cracked and unknown walls of the village of
Warli, Warli, an Indian folk art painting has travelled across borders and are now cherished
possessions of many a collector and art lovers.

Sankheda Furniture

Sankheda, a small village located in Vadodara district is famous for exclusive lacquered wooden
furniture, which has created an identity by its name - Sankheda Furniture, a perfect choice for those
who seek beauty, art and tradition in their life.
Sankheda furniture is colorful teak wood furniture of Gujarat, India, treated with lacquer and painted in
traditional bright shades. Lacquered turned wood furniture with hand painted motifs and traditional
method of ornamentation.

The range of items in Sankheda craft includes sofa sets, chairs, centre tables, swings, cradles, cupboard
doors, corner tables and mirror frames. The furniture is available in unique golden and silver finish that is
popular across the globe.

Patola Saree

Patola is a special woven fabric from Gujarat. It is either single or double ikat made form silk.

Ikat (pronounced "ee-kat”) is a loom-woven textile created by a remarkable process. Ikat fabrics have
always been known for their distinct style and unparalleled beauty.

The weave is so intricate that each piece is not just the manifestation of a traditional Gujarat craft but a
work of art. The fabric is the culmination of a painstaking process which involves dyeing each thread in
different colors to make the characteristic designs. A characteristic of Ikat textiles is an apparent
"unevenness” in the weave.

Mashru

Mashru, is an old and admired hand woven textile craft form. This rare pattern which is now found
only in Gujarat, is a mixed fabric woven with a combination of cotton and silk.

The shiny, satiny surface is woven in a combination of a pleasurable linear design imagery of waves
overlapping in a tapestry of bright blossoming colors. Mashru patterns include ikat strips and dots. It often
combines ikat patterns in stripes along with woven patterns through the introduction of the depression in
extra warp threads, which is woven on a pit loom.

Today, Patan is one of the most important centers of Mashru. Mandavi (Kutch), however also has some
Mashru weavers.

Sujani

The famous weaving technique of Bharuch, seems to have originated in Bharuch, Gujarat, around
1860 A.D. Sujani is a woven, padded quilt using double weave technique. Fabric is woven on double
cloth principle.

Cotton is inserted into a square to give a quilt effect, which is the most popular in the country for being
used as decorative blankets and quilts.

Keeping market trends in mind, new products items like hammock, car seat cover, table mats, low sitting
stools, tea-coaster and upholstery are also being developed.
Bamboo Work

The universal technique of basketry and mat making practiced by the tribals in parts of Gujarat
exude design sensibility of the artisans expressed in the simplest vocabulary.

Natural dry bamboo or cane is split into required widths and the pieces are woven together usually with
the warp approaching out from the central base.

Tribals from Baroda make baskets, masks and flutes. Jodija Pahwai, a special double flute, is made in
Banni and kutch. The tribal belt of Dahod, Dangs, Rajpipla, Narmada, Bharuch, Tapi, Navsari and Valsad
are famous for their baskets, trays, boxes, mats, and musical instruments. The impetus provided by the
success of these items led to the tribals venturing into making of domestic decorative items.

Copper Bells

Bells are hand cast in a variety of shapes and sizes displayed singularly or in a group to perform
musical functions. The sound of each bell is set with an instrument called ekal. The tonal quality and
the resonating sound are dependent on three factors inherent to the making. The shape and size of
the bell, along with the wooden thong sourced from the local Khirad tree determines the sound it
imparts.

The structure and curvature of the bottom which is delicately beaten into shape using a harmonic hammer
resonates the sound deepening its after glow.

Bells chimed their way into Kutch from Sindh centuries ago, tied to the necks of migrating cattle.

Pithora Paintings

Pithora Paintings are much more than colorful images on walls for the tribes of Rathwas, Bhilals, and
Naykas of Gujarat. They signify the advent of an auspicious occasion (like weddings, childbirth,
festivals) in the family or community.

An art form, which essentially conveys the joy and celebration of a community, has to reflect the collective
mood of it, and Pithora paintings with their colors and animated figures mirrors the sentiments of their
creators.

The essence of a Pithora painting lies in its earthiness; everything from the theme to the execution has
the ethnicity of rural India. Even materials used are quite exotic: the colors are prepared by mixing
pigments with milk and liquor prepared from the auspicious Mahuda tree..

Agate Craft

Gujarat is renowned for agate stone crafts. The semi-precious stone formed of chalcedonic silica, is
found in underground mines of Rajpipla and Ratanpur and in riverbeds, and extracted to produce a
variety of ornamental objects. Its flexibility makes it easy to fashion the stone into a range of
products, making it very popular. Agate is also said to have healing properties for balancing energies
either within a person or even in the surroundings.

In the 18th century, the seaport of Khambhat (now in Anand dist.) was the centre of the agate industry.
Daggers, Knives, cutlery and kitchenware, vases and a range of jewellery were created during this period.
Artisans of Khambhat are skilled in this unique craft even today. The lifestyle changes in society have led
to a new range of utilitarian and decorative products.

Craftsmen in Khambhat now produce trendy agate stone jewellery such as bangles, necklaces and
earrings, and also bowls, vases, ashtrays, buttons, paperweights, paper knives, decorative showpieces
as well as products for Feng Shui. Eroding Knowledge-base in the foundation of this enriching experience
of the stone crafts of Gujarat lays the wealth of knowledge invested in the craftsperson of the area by
their forefathers. This largely unrecognized asset base of our heritage, because of its intangible nature, is
rarely given the credit it deserves.

The skills developed and refined over centuries of application and practice, using simple hand-based
tools, have ensured a heritage that gives us a sense of pride, Agate beads are used primarily in rosaries
and jewellery. The healing powers attributed to agate stones have sustained the use of agate over
centuries.

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Unveiling the art and crafts of Gujarat
Discover exquisite handicrafts from 10 towns across Gujarat - from the Sadeli
craft (marquetry) of Surat to the Pithora paintings of Chhota Udepur to the
Tangaliya weaving of Surendranagar to the Terracotta Horses of Poshina
AUTHOR AVINASH SUBRAMANIAM PUBLISHED DECEMBER 24, 2016

One of the ways in which a place expresses itself is through its arts and crafts. When it comes to
arts and crafts, perhaps no country in the world has a greater diversity of these expressions than
India. Each village in every district in any state in all corners of this colourful and intense land has
something distinct to showcase. It’s a journey that is sensual, unique, varied, and satisfying. We
invite you to join us on it.

Welcome aboard. Discovering and exploring the hidden treasures of Gujarat, from embroidery to tie-
dye to block printing to beadwork to metalworking to woodcarving to lacquer work to pottery to
marquetry to quilting to stone carving to more is on the itinerary today.

Gujarat has a rich and colourful legacy of weaving and handicrafts. Situated on the west coast of
India, the state has cultivated trading partnerships with people from lands across the Arabian Sea for
generations. Traders, invaders, colonisers, migrants and refugees have landed here with riches,
dreams, and skills that have become part of the heritage of the state. The palaces, forts, havelis,
mansions, mosques, temples, and mausoleums that dot different parts of the state reflect the
richness of crafts and skills nurtured from medieval times.

1. SURAT

Key Crafts: Sadeli, Zari


Sadeli

The heart of Sadeli crafts lies in Surat. Sadeli is a form of marquetry that showcases the art of
decorating the surface of wooden articles with delicate pieces of wood and other materials in
precisely cut geometrical shapes. Sadeli bears a striking resemblance to Khatam, a Persian version
of marquetry, which is said to have developed in Iran during the reign of Safavid dynasty from 1501
to 1722. The processes, techniques and motifs of khatamkari marquetry are said to have been
brought to Surat by the Parsis who came Gujarat from Iran, which gave rise to the craft of Sadeli.

Sadeli Work from Surat

Sadeli craftsmen are mostly skilled carpenters. It is a patient and precise craft. Originally, Sadeli was
used mainly to decorate doors, windows, and furniture. Today, however, Sadeli craftsmen use their
skills to embellish jewellery boxes, photo frames, and other products. Cutting wood pieces and other
materials, artisans glue them together in patterns that form intricate colours, shapes, and
dimensions.

Rakesh Pethigara, a Sadeli craftsman says, “The quality of the craftsmanship is judged
by the intricacy of detail of the geometric forms used in a surface. We successfully
apply 250 pieces in one square inch of a wooden surface. This art is distinct from
inlay-work, as in we do not inlay wood but create a decorative layer for wooden
products.”
Zari

A major manufacturing centre for textiles, Surat is also known for zari embroidery and aari khatla
work. Both are done employing a long needle on fabric stretched over a charpoi cot-like frame called
khatla (the Gujarati word for cot).

Zari Work

Where to Shop:

The Petigara family runs a Sadeli workshop and a shop at 7/B 212, Dhobi Seri, Syedpura, Surat,
Phone 09374542424. For embroidered fabrics and zari, visit the textile markets of Surat and the
artisan workshops on Varaccha Road.

2. SANKHEDA

Key Crafts: Woodworking

Sankheda Colourful Wooden Furniture & Lacquerware

Sankheda in Vadodara district is well-known for its colourful wooden furniture. It is an excellent
example of woodworking, woodturning, lacquerware and hand-painting on wood. An artisan
community called Kharadi Suthars make this furniture. They use hand-held tools, lathes, and simple
machinery to do so. The tradition of making hand-painted furniture in Sankheda dates back to the
mid-1800s.

Sankheda Woodworking / Lacquered Furniture & Wood Items

To begin with, the Suthars turn blocks of wood on lathes. Then they shave and smooth it to achieve
the characteristic rounded shapes. Next, each piece is painted by hand in colours like maroon,
vermilion, green and brown, often picked out with gold or silver, and floral patterns, peacock motifs
and abstract drawings to delicate lacelike forms. A brush made from very fine squirrel’s hair is
typically used for painting. After painting, the pieces are coated with lacquer.

Anil Kharadi, owner of a Sankheda furniture workshop says, “The lacquer-ware style
called atishi is used for Sankedha furniture. This involves a cast of violet dye over
which an emulsion prepared from kalai or tin is used to paint the designs. The product
is then glazed next with a hard stone called akik while being turned. This process is
followed by imparting a transparent lacquer coat using a lacquer stick after which the
kalai work beneath gleams to give the finished product a fiery golden-yellow effect.
This process is what gives Sankheda’s furniture its distinctive metallic shine.”

Finally, the pieces are drilled to create space for tongue and groove or other forms of joinery
required to fit and turn them into pieces of furniture.
While Sankheda is largely known for its furniture and low stools called bajoths, the Suthars also
produce smaller items like dandiya sticks, candle stands, powder boxes, toys, utensils, rolling pins,
and lacquered wooden temples.

Where to Shop:

The main market of Sankheda has showrooms of many leading workshops where the lacquer-ware
is made.

3. CHHOTA UDEPUR

Key Crafts: Pithora Painting

Pithora Painting

Chhota Udepur and nearby towns in Vadodara, Panchmahals, and Dahod districts are the centres
for many arts and crafts associated with tribal groups. One of which is the highly ritualistic art form
called pithora paintings done by communities like the Rathwas.

Guided by rituals conducted by the Badvo officiating as the head priest for the associated rituals, the
pithora or pithoro painting is executed by the Lakahara group. This is a form of painting done either
to celebrate an auspicious occasion or call upon Pithora Baba to solve problems like disease or
drought. The legends and events related to this revered tribal lord dominate the pithoro and the
ceremonies that are an integral part of the art form involve song, dance, drinking, and feasting.
Pithora Paintings

The process begins with treating the walls with cow dung and white chalk powder, usually brought
by unmarried girls. Powders, earth, and vegetable colours are mixed with milk and mahuda flower
liquor to prepare the dye for the pithoro in colours like yellow, indigo, orange, green, vermillion, red
and silver. The brushes are made from bamboo, neem, and other twigs that are frayed by chewing,
beating, and other methods. The painting begins after the offerings are made to the lord.

The Badvo chanting the prayers and tales go into a trance while the pithoro is being painted. The
marriage of Pithora Baba and Pithori with processions of vibrant dancing people and animals
dominate most pithoros. They also depict the elements of life among the Rathwas—like musicians,
dancers, protecting, feasting, men climbing palm trees, milking of cows, livestock at pasture, women
churning butter, and bullock carts ploughing a field. Raja Bhoj with an elephant procession is another
distinctive feature of many pithoros. Animistic figures of bulls, horses, birds, and tigers are part of
each pithoro. Live sacrifices are offered near the tiger pictures.

Today, the Rathwas are bringing the pithoro into the mainstream at craft fairs and other events by
doing these paintings on cloth or paper.

Other crafts:
Dahod and Panchmahals Districts have significant tribal populations. These are excellent places to
explore the art of pottery and terracotta figures practices by potters called Kumhars and jewellery
made by the Soni community.
Where to Shop:

Visit the Chhota Udepur market, especially on Saturdays, when you can explore a weekly mart
called Haat and look for these crafts. The Bhasha Kendra at Tejgadh near Chhota Udepur is also a
helpful place to source the handicrafts.

4. SURENDRANAGAR

Key Crafts: Handloom weaving and textile embellishment

Tangaliya Work (aka Tangalia, Tangalio)

Meet Tangalio, a rare and unique weave from Surendranagar district. Surendranagar district has one
of the largest handloom clusters in Gujarat. Tangalio can be seen in Bajana, Wadhwan, Sayla, and
other villages in this region.

The Tangalio weavers are adept at adding extra knots on the weft which create motifs and figures in
a dotted pattern on the woven fabric. Using this technique, artisans weave shawls, stoles and
garments. The single Ikat done at various places in this district, including Somasar and Sayla,
creates a less expensive version of the ultra-rich double Ikat Patolas of Patan.

Tangaliya Work
The weaver families go through continual resist drying of the warp threads before drawing them on
the loom to weave the fabrics, mainly saris and stoles. The Bharwad women of Surendranagar
district are adept at doing beadwork. They attach beads to a cloth by using needle and thread and
create decorative items, ornaments, garments, wall hangings, and torans using this craft.

In Dasada, about 15 families of semi-nomadic Mirs have started making beaded bangles for sale to
tourists visiting the Little Rann of Kutch.

Other crafts:
Wadhwan is an important centre for bandhani tie-dye and metalwork. The utensils of Wadhwan, like
the brass gadhas, are especially famous. Surendranagar district is also an important centre for stone
carving. Dhrangadhra is well-known for its sandstone carvings.

Where to Shop:

Visit the markets of Surendranagar and Wadhwan, and the khadi emporia and manufacturing
centres in Surendranagar, Sayla, and other centres. Visiting the respective villages can also be a
good way to buy the handicrafts directly from artisans.

5. JASDAN

Key Crafts: Brass embellished wooden chests and boxes

Embellished Wooden Chests & Boxes

Jasdan is an important centre for the production of brass-ribbed chests called pataras or pataris and
boxes embellished with metalwork. A patara is typically made of teak wood and contains eight or
more drawers. Traditionally covered with brass and copper, now white metal is being increasingly
used in their making.

The box is strengthened with thick black metal pieces and decorated with thin pieces of white metal,
embossed on the wood. The chests are lined with brass strips and brass stoppers are fixed.

The chests were used for storage and traditionally as dowry and trousseau carriers. Some really fine
pataras can be seen in the museum collections of Hingolgadh Castle and the Gondal Palace.
Embellished Boxes from Jasdan

Apart from the chests, the artisans of Jasdan and nearby villages produce ornate jewel boxes with
brass and other metal decorations.

Other crafts:
Rajkot district is well-known for its gold jewellery and silverware, including jewellery, boxes, furniture,
and utensils made from silver. Traditionally handcrafted, now mechanisation has been introduced.
Rajkot’s wood artisans produce meenakari style painted furniture. Jetpur is an important centre for
block printing and screen printing.

Where to Shop:

Pataras and jewel boxes can be bought in the main market and Lathi Bazaar of Jasdan.

The Udhyog Bharati (Telephone: +91-02825-220177, 240377, Bhavan: +91- 02825-223859 Fax No:
+91-02825-220177 email: info@udhyogbharti.org) and Khadi Plaza of Gondal also sell the jewel
boxes and smaller versions of the pataras.

Soni Bazaar and Palace Road in Rajkot are excellent places for silverware, with well-known
jewellery shops like Premji Valji, JC Kansara, and Popular Art Jewel. The Darbargadh Road of
Gondal also has silver workshops. For printed fabrics, visit the factory outlets in Jetpur.
6. BHAVNAGAR

Key Crafts: Metal Utensils of Sihore

Metal utensils of Sihore

Sihore is situated 20 km from Bhavnagar. It has a tradition of crafting metal utensils. The Kansara
artisans of Sihore are known for the superbly crafted metal utensils. Working with brass, copper and
bronze, the thalis and bowls made by the Kansaras of Sihore are popular with restaurants in cities
like Ahmedabad, Vadodara, and Surat. The Kansaras make several kinds of utensils, and also solid
brass chains with ornate motifs for swings and other uses.

Metal Utensils by Kansara artisans

Other crafts:
Bhavnagar district is known for a variety of handicrafts, including Gohilwad Rabari and Koli
embroidery, beadwork, bird hangings, Botad’s pottery, Sihore’s bronze and copper work, Palitana’s
metal-embossed woodwork and stonework, and Mahua’s lacquer work. Botad has become an
innovative centre for pottery, producing a variety of decorative terracotta items, contemporary
products and ceramic jewellery.

Where to Shop:
There are workshops for metal vessels in Sihor. For terracotta products in Botad, visit the Prajapati
potters that are found in the town.

7. JAMNAGAR

Key Crafts: Bandhani

Bandhani

Jamnagar is known for its bandhani, an ancient intricate art of tie-dyeing. Bandhani gets its name
from Bandhan, the Hindi word for tying.

The fabric is pinched together in selected places – according to the pattern lightly drawn or block-
printed on the surface in fugitive colours that fade away – and tied round with thread or twine and
coated with material that resists the dye before immersion in a dye-bath. The threads or twines are
then removed to reveal a pattern in the original colour. The process is often repeated to create a
variously-coloured bandhani pattern. It can take up to six months to a year for most saris to be
completely dyed and even the simplest patterns can take more than a month before the sari is ready
for the market.

Bandhani Tie & Dye Work


Entire families work at homes or at workshops in their residential areas and often family members
develop their own specialised expertise in tying, dyeing red, and other dark colours, and pastel
shades, to name a few examples.

In Gujarat, bandhani has always been a favoured bridal dress, specially the gharchola sari which is
usually red or green in colour, patterned with yellow and white dots often depicting floral and other
motifs. The trousseau of women from Saurashtra was rarely complete without a panetar sari in gajji
silk with rich borders and central medallions, usually white with red tie-dyed dots.

The Bhatiya community of Jamnagar district preferred the traditional design called the zari kyara with
square grid work of varied bandhani patterns on fine cotton depicting elephants, floral patterns,
birds, dancing figures, and other motifs.

The Jamnagar, Kutch and Surendranagar districts are all known for their bandhani artisans, but the
Jamnagar bandhani is most sought after because the ahores of the Rangmati and Nagmati, two
rivers whose mineral-rich waters used in the post-dyeing immersion process are believed to increase
the richness and fastness of the colours.

Vanza Bharat of Vanza Pottery, Botad, Bhavnagar district Crafts of Bhavnagar


district Bandhani tie-dye in Jamnagar Gopaldas Hirji, a bandhani specialist shop in
Jamnagar says, “Today, the artisans of Jamnagar make saris and other fabrics that
fuse bandhani with various other handcrafted surface ornamentations like the
laheriya wavy tie-dyed patterns associated with Rajasthan, shibori patterns adopted
from Japanese tie-and-dye techniques, hand-painting, embroidery, sequins, crystals.
The bandhani odhnis, chaniya cholis and other products are also decorated with
mirrors, gota and tassels to enhance their dressiness for special occasions.”

Other crafts:
Jamnagar is known for its metal crafts, zari and jewellery.

Where to Shop:

Chandi Bazaar, the Darbargadh area, and New Super Market are good places to buy bandhani.
Reputed shops include Mahavir Bandhani and Vanza Umar Ibrahim.

8. DHAMADKA – AJRAKHPUR

Key Crafts: Ajrakh block printing

Ajrakh Block Printing

Dhamadka has long been a centre for block printing. The artisans of this region are called Khattries.
They are believed to have come to Dhamadka from Sindh in medieval times.

After the destruction of the workplaces and residences of Khattries in Dhamadka by the 2001
Earthquake, an alternative site called Ajrakhpur was developed. The two villages of Ajrakhpur are
known for Ajrakh, an intricate art of resist block printing fabrics that uses a resist, mordant, or both.
The artisans go through a lengthy process that involves treating fabrics to applying handheld
wooden blocks with designs in relief to finishing it in the form of eye-catching prints of beautiful
patterns.

Ajrakh Block Printing

Where to Shop:

Most of the artisan workshops have block printed fabrics for sale. The Craft Resource Centre
(Khamir Craft Resource Centre, Bhuj Tel.:+91-2832- 271272/271422 Email: info@ khamir.org) at
nearby Kukma can be a good place to get information about buying fine Ajrakh work.

9. BHUJODI

Key Crafts: Weaving

Weaving

Bhujodi is well-known for its Vankars; weaver families, who produce colourful shawls, traditional
blankets like the dhabda, dhablas, and floor coverings like woollen durries. Many of the weavers of
this village have won prestigious national awards for their work. The shawls and other products are
distinguished by their intricate woven patterns, tight weaving, and embellishments with tie-dye or
embroidery.
Shawls from Bhujodi

The weavers work on a throw shuttle or a fly shuttle pit loom, or occasionally frame looms. The
colourful shawls and durries of Bhujodi are usually woven with motifs passed down through
generations of artisan communities. While usually wool was sourced from the pastoral communities
like the Rabaris, the weavers today also use cottons, Merino wools, acrylics and silks. The shawls
may be embellished further with tie-dye, mirror-work embroidery and other handwork.

Other crafts:
Bhujodi is also known for Rabari and Marwada embroidery, woodcarving, and other handicrafts.

Where to Shop:

The Hiralaxmi Memorial Craft Park, (Near Bhujodi Village, Tel: +91-2832- 240495-240496 Fax : +91-
2832-240332 Email : info@ hmcraftpark.com) developed by the Ashapura Group at Bhujodi, is an
excellent place to watch craftspeople at work on various handicrafts and buy directly from the
source.

10. POSHINA

Key Crafts: Terracotta horses


Terracotta Horses

Sabarkantha district (the village of Poshina in particular) is known for its votive terracotta figures.
These figures are an integral part of the rituals practiced by tribal communities like the Garasia
Adivasis.

The terracotta horse called Ghoda Dev has special place in these rituals and is considered a
messenger for the gods in many cultures. The symbolic sacrifice of terracotta horses for fulfilment of
wishes is common, and at some sites you can see scores of terracotta horses that have stood here
for decades.

Votive Horses of Poshina

The potters are called kumhars. Kumhars make the various hollow parts of the terracotta horse on
their wheels and then join them together. Some parts moulded by hand and added in grooves.
These terracotta horses, elephants and other figures are becoming popular adornments for houses
and gardens.

Other crafts:
Poshina village is also the centre for the making of silver jewellery and tribal adornments.

Where to Shop:
To begin with, do walk around the village of Poshina and find potters that make the terracotta horses
and earthen ware. Also, the village market can be a good place to buy tribal crafts.

OTHER ICONIC CRAFTS OF GUJARAT


Agate Stone Items

Khambatt or Cambay produces jewellery and decorative items using polished agate stones.

Agate, or Akik as it is called in Gujarat, is ideal for arts and crafts because of fineness of grain and
brightness of colour. The stone is said to have been used for crafts in Gujarat from 7000BC.
Beautiful agate beads were made during the Harappan period in Lothal. The Roman Emperor Nero
is said to have coveted Gujarat’s agate cups and Pliny mentions agate stones from the Gulf of
Khambatt in his writings. The Siddis, a community of African origin, is said to have come to Bharuch
district with their leader Baba Ghor because of the agates found in this area.

Agate Stone Jewellery

This stone is mined in the hills and riverbeds by tribal groups like the Bhils, and after sorting by
colour and quality transported to Khambatt. The nodules are sun-dried and then heated to fracture
regularly before the rough cut, after which they may be re-heated with oxidizing iron or other
materials that give it the reddish orange colour.

After chipping and flaking, the agate bead goes for drilling and polishing. Lamp shades and lamp
bases, decorative trees, small ornate items and jewellery are made using agate in different colours.

Nutcrackers & Pen-knives

Anjar is an important centre for metal crafts. The artisans, some of them ancestral swordsmiths,
make exquisite nutcrackers fashioned in different mythical, human, animistic, bird and abstract
figures, and knives with ornate handles and sheaths.
Pen Knives

Ganga Bazaar and shops in the main market of Anjar are worth exploring. Kothara and Reha Nana
are other places for nutcrackers. Copper engraving is done in Anjar and Bhuj.

Melodic Bells

Artisans called Luhars at villages of Nirona and Jhura cast bells in different sizes that when played
as a set produce musical notes. These bells are usually cast for the identification of cows when they
are at pasture. Nowadays, the Luhars also make bells for temples and modern uses like chimes.

Melodic Bells

After crafting the cylindrical body and domed crown from iron, the family members coat the bell with
copper. The sound of each bell depends on its design and the luhars take pride in the music that
their bells can produce when struck, though they themselves have no musical background.
Woodcrafts

Kutch is well-known for its woodcarvings and other woodcrafts. At Nirona and Jhura, artisans called
Vaadas make lacquered wood products.

Lacquered Wood Items

Bhujodi, Dumado, Ludia, Khavda, Kapurasi, Kuriyana, Jhinkada, and Gorewali are famed for their
woodwork.

Idar is highly regarded for its wooden toys. Himmatnagar and Bhavnagar also produce wooden toys.

Other places for woodcrafts are Mahuva, Sawarkundla, Rajkot, Jamnagar, Junagadh, Khambaliya
(Jamnagar district), Chittal (Amreli district), and Tharad.

Stone Carving

Traditional stone carvers called Sompuras work on different stones to create sand stone carvings in
Dhrangadhra, which is popular for images, latticework, carved walls. Ambaji is reputed for its marble
carving.

Stone Carving in Sompura

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