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What is This?
ABSTRACT
Pectinase bioscouring of greige cotton fabric is a very promising new approach for
preparing cotton textiles for subsequent wet processing treatments such as mercerizing,
bleaching, dyeing, printing, or finishing. Such biopreparation of greige cotton fabric is an
energy efficient and environmentally benign process. Our research has shown that at the
laboratory scale, introducing ultrasonic energy into the reaction chamber during enzymatic
scouring of the greige cotton fabric significantly improves pectinase efficiency, but does
not decrease the tensile strength of cotton fabric. In line with our previous, data, current
research also confirms that sonication of pectinase processing solutions does not impair
the complex structures of the enzyme molecules, but significantly improves their perfor-
mance. Data show that alkaline pectinase appears to be a more efficient agent for
biopreparation of greige cotton than acidic pectinase, resulting in better wettability and
whiteness. We also establish that the combination of pectinase bioscouring with desizing
and after-washing insures sufficiefit fabric wettability with adequate uniformity. The
results are comparable to or better than those for fabric after traditional alkaline scouring.
Introducing ultrasonic energy into the reaction chamber during enzymatic treatment of
cotton fabric could help overcome the major disadvantage of pectinase scouring-a longer
processing time compared to conventional alkaline scouring.
Cotton continues to be the fiber of choice worldwide, about 4O-5O0C, which means significantly decreased
with up to 43.2 billion pounds consumed annually in energy consumption. Also important is that the waste-
textile production [ 101. Raw unscoured cotton contains water effluent from enzymatic treatment is readily bio-
-90% cellulose and various noncellulosics such as degradable and does not pose an environmental threat.
waxes, pectins, proteins, fats, and coloring matter. The In addition to numerous advantages, there are several
goal of the cotton preparation process is to remove these shortcomings of enzymatic treatments, such as more
hydrophobic . noncellulosic components and produce expensive processing costs and slow reaction rates. En-
highly absorbent fibers that can be dyed and finished zymatic processing of cotton, like any wet processing
uniformly. Most noncellulosic materials on cotton fibers system, involves transferring mass from the processing
are solubilized and removed by conventional alkaline liquid medium (enzyme solution) across the surface of
scouring with sodium hydroxide solution at the boil in the textile substrate. In general, large enzyme molecules
the presence of wetting and sequestering agents [l]. (12,000-150,000 Daltons) have low diffusion rates and
There are, however, severe environmental issues associ- tend to react with external cellulose fibers in cotton yarn.
ated with conventional alkaline scouring, which requires Mechanical agitation of an enzyme processing solution
large quantities of water and energy and generates a huge usually improves the transport of bulky enzyme mole-
amount of highly alkaline wastewater effluent [ 141. cules toward the surface of the cellulose fabric and into
Recently published work has indicated that certain the interior of the cotton yarn [6, 81, but it is well known
enzymes may be a valuable alternative to harsh alkaline that mechanical agitation is not a very effective stirring
solutions for preparing cotton. In general, enzymatic mechanism for the immediate border layer of liquid at a
treatment of cotton textiles is a well known process that solifliquid interface where the enzymatic reaction actu-
has gained wide recognition for various applications ally occurs.
such as desizing, bleach cleanup, biostoning and biopol- In view of that fact, ultras'ound appears to be an
ishing [8, 13, 14, 16, 18. 211. But enzymatic bioprepa- alternative technique that could provide a far more effi-
ration of cotton represents a fairly new approach and is cient stirring mechanism for the border layer of liquid at
still mostly in the developmental stages [3-6, 9, 15, 241. the fiber's surface. Introducing ultrasonic energy into
Typical temperatures for enzymatic bioscouring are liquid causes two major phenomena: heating and cavita-
Treatment time,
Test description hours Abbreviation
ACIDICPECTINASE TESTS
BIOSCOURING v, 800
0
TABLE
111. Test paramcters for tests AcP-I and AcP-6. Original Enzyme E m . + Son.
Enzyme Sonication Circulation
concentration, power, rate, U FIGURE
3. Evaluation of average \veltability of printcloth
Test Trial & amps minute after acidic pcctinase scouring (test AcP-6).
TABLE
IV. General arrangement of combined alkaline pectinase bioscouring treatments (test AIP(c)-2).
Alkaline pcctinase
Sample Sample description DesizinS scouring Sonication After-wash
tinase bioscouring, desizing, and after-wash treatments and 3) insured adequate and uniform wettability of the
and their combinations on the average wettability of treated samples. The comparison of wicking times on
cotton printcloth. samples after such combined bioscouring treatments
with samples subjected to conventional alkaline scour-
ing showed that the combined bioscouring provided
' equal or even better wettability with good overall
uniformity. As in all previous tests, the experimental
data for AIP(c)-2 test showed that using ultrasound
energy during biopreparation of the greige cotton
printcloth significantly improved the performance of
alkaline pectinase, resulting in faster and more uni-
form treatment. Figure 8 shows the comparative ef-
fects of sonication on alkaline pectinase bioscouring
and desizing and their combinations with after-wash.
In all trials, ultrasound energy significantly enhanced
the performance of alkaline pectinase without any
adverse effects on specific enzyme activity. Likewise,
combined treatments such as desizing/bioscouring and
desizing/bioscouring/after-wash were also accelerated
by sonication, but to a lesser degree. A comparison of
FIGURE7. Comparative effects of alkaline pectinase hioscourin_e, breaking strengths of all treated samples with the
desizing, after-wash, and their combinations on the \\ettability of
samples of greige cotton printcloth, test AIP(c)-2; I , 2 and 3 are
replicates.
II
Conclusions
This research shows that enzymatic bioscouring with
acidic and alkaline pectinases can be effectively used for
preparing greige cotton fabric for subsequent chemical
treatments. Data show that alkaline pectinase appears to
be a more efficient agent for biopreparation of greige
cotton than acidic pectinase, resulting in better wettabil-
ity and whiteness. We also establish that the combination
of pectinase bioscouring with desizing and after-wash
treatments insures sufficient fabric wettability with ade-
quate uniformity, comparable to or better than that after
traditional alkaline scouring.
At the laboratory scale, introducing ultrasonic energy
in the reaction chamber during enzymatic scouring of
greige cotton fabric significantly improves pectinase ef-
FIGURE 9. Coniparativc effects of al6aline pectinate bioscouring, ficiency, but does not decrease the tensile strength of the
desizing, after-wash, and their cornbinalionc on breaking strength cotton fabric. Ultrasonic energy in the reaction chamber
(\varp + fill) of cotton printcloth, test AIP(c)-2.
for enzymatic treatment of cotton fabric could help over-
come the major disadvantage of pectinase scouring-a
longer processing time compared to conventional alka-
breaking strengths of the original greige samples (Fig-
line scouring. Thus, the combination of alkaline pectin-
ure 9) showed that the alkaline pectinase bioscouring
ase bioscouring with sonication could significantly re-
itself and its combinations with hesizing and/or after-
duce the amount of wastewater effluent, energy
wash procedures did not affect the mechanical
strength of the treated .samples. Note again that the consumption, and overall preparation costs.
samples that were sonicated in addition to enzymatic
treatment actually showed slightly increased niechan-
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
ical strength compared to the treated samples or to the We wish to thank Mr. Alan Lanibert for his help with
original greige samples. experiments, Ms. Melissa Day for textile property mea-
The general trend we observed was that introducing surements, and Novo Nordisk BioChem, Inc. for provid-
ultrasonic energy into the reaction chamber during pec- ing samples of acidic and alkaline pectinases.
tinase bioscouring of the greige cotton fabric resulted in
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