ECL82 = 6BM8 – Easy to find.

PY88 = 30AE3 – Never heard of it before.

http://www.altronics.com.au/p/m1115-8-ohm-to-1.25w-15w-pa-speaker-transformer/

http://www.ozvalveamps.org/optrans.htm
I used an output transformer from an old tube radio, but i dont have its specifications. I
measured 600Ohms and 1.2Ohms on its windings but I dont know how much turns it is.

Of course it would be good to use an appropiate audio transformer with the calculated
values, but tube amplifier audio transformers are quite expensive, at least for this little
circuit.
If you want to try it out, you can use for example a normal 230V / 12V transformer
connecting the primary winding(230V) to the tube output and the secondary
winding(12V) to the speaker. Dont expect no hifi-quality, but thats not the point, it just
should work :)

all tube 12v amps

Written by Administrator

Monday, 22 May 2006

This page contains informations about my latest projet, building a low voltage low
volume ALL tube amp.

I have already played with the idea of making an hybrid amp (tube preamp into a
solid state power section). The result was nice (see the ruby_tuby) but, it still was a
bit of a pain to work with and didn't have the sound I was looking for.

Enter low voltage tubes. There was an entire series of tubes that were ment to
operate with a max b+ voltage of 30V! This was exactly what I was looking for.
Originally, those tubes were intended to be used in car radios using the 12V battery
to run them. This makes the initial design very easy, b+ and heater power = 12V.
Therefore, we could get by using a single power supply. This was possible, I just
needed to ensure that the volume was adequate at such a low voltage. While
investigating using low voltage tubes (also refered to "space charged" tubes), I
selected a few possible candidates:

 12U7 for the preamp. It's a dual triode very similar to a 12AU7 but with an
gain factor of 20

 12K5 for a tetrode power tube. This is can supply roughly 1/4 watt on 12V.

 12CX6 for a pentode power tube. This is supposed to supply roughly 1/2 watt
on 12V but I couldn't get it to be as loud as the 12K5...

Sopht amp using a 12K5 as a power tube

Last version Sopht amp using a 12K5 as a power tube - updated 10/12/2004
Ok, I thought that I had finished playing with the 12k5 amp, but, I guess not! After
doing a lot of reading and some comments about the lack of bass in the last
incarnation of the amp, I went back to the drawing board. I basically read all sorts of
stuff about frequency and tone of each of the preamp stages and how caps affect it.
My first experiment was to mimic the frequency response of a champ amp. Since the
12k5 is a 2 tube amp without a tone stack, I thought it would be perfect to try and
capture the tone of the champ amp. Since I don't have a Champ amp (yet), my only
point of reference was a POD emulation of the amp. I think that it has the same
character as a champ but not the same sound. Here is the sound clip for the champ
version. And here is the schematic:

UPDATE!

Luap has built a Sopht 12K5 and has a very nice site about the Sopht amp and his
build. He also developed spice models for the 12U7 and the 12K5. Please click here to
go to his site.

Scoping the Sopht 12k5

Well, after what seems like an eternity, I finally got around to putting a scope on the
Sopht amp. Nothing like a little xmas vacation to get the time and incentive to do it!
Please note that the pictures suck but, we can see the info that we need. I used the
simple CD player as a signal generator trick. Bascially, you generate a 1k sinwave WAV
file. Burn this WAV to an audio disk and use the output of a small CD player as an
input for your amp! Here is a picture of the input signal (.1v peak to peak)
Here is a picture after the first stage, no clipping seems to occur at this stage. Even
when the input signal increased, both sides were symetrical. The voltage divider on
the first stage was .2v. We seem to be getting a gain of about 4 on the first stage.
Here is a picture after the second stage. We can see some clipping at the second
stage. The sides aren't symetrical and there is a bit of compression on the top part.
Voltage divider was 1v so, again about 4 as a voltage gain.

Here is a picture taken at the output transformer. We can see where the distortion
comes from, yup, the power tube! We can see some clipping happening and it does
increase as the input goes up. The voltage divider for the output stage is .5v. Breaking
out the formula to calculte power of an amp (V * V / speaker impedance), we have .5
* .5 / 8 = 31mW, yes, milliwatts. That is inline with the "power" expected from these
tubes at 12v.
Sopht amp using a 12CX6 as a power tube

Sopht amp using a 12AL8 as a power tube

The is the latest version as of 08-JAN-2005

I have hooked this up to a speaker and it doesn't sound good. As a pedal, it sounds
very nice but not as an "amp". The version 2 is still the best choice so far. This is the
latest version of the 12AL8. It will probably move some more, but it is a very nice
version. It's basically a 12k5 preamp with a 12AL8 section. There is preamp and power
amp distortion all of which comes from the 12AL8. You can listen to a clip of it here.
The clip was recorded using a direct in box. This would make a nice tube pedal as
well! Please note that the pots should be log or audio pots. Here is the current
schematic:

older versions

This was all nice, but, I still wanted more gain. Further investigation revealed a
marvelous tube, the 12AL8. This tube is a power tetrode with a medium gain triode in
the same tube! This gave me the luxury of adding a third gain stage. I rebiased
evertyhing because I think that I was getting more preamp distortion than power
distortion. Anyways, I ended up making the desing a bit simpler (go figure!). Here is a
short sound clip of the Sopht amp with a 12AL8.

Sopht amp using a 12AL8 as a power tube - Version 2

After playing a bit with the design of the Sopht amp using a 12AL8, I played a bit with
a few resistors. The first was to put a resistor in series with the output transformer.
The datasheet specifies a load of 800 ohm, so, I added 200 ohm in series with the 600
ohm transformer. This "cleaned" up the sound a bit, but it was a very good cleanup.
Without the resistor (r9), the distortion was very POW. With the resistor, the
distortion is alot more natural. I also played with the resistors R6 and R8 to bring
them to datasheet spec (2.2Meg specified in the datasheet). This brought in some
nice low end! Another very nice mod! Finally, I backed down the R7 resistor as I felt I
still had a bit too much gain (can I say that :) ). I backed it down to 10k and I know
have a nice hard rock amp!

UPDATE

Rich Chernock has built a 12AL8 and sent me a few pictures of his creation. The only
modifications that he did was to add a volumne control between the first two gain
stages. As you can see from the pictures, it is excellent worksmanship!
Last Updated ( Friday, 23 February 2007 )

Build this Budget 3 Watt SE Amplifier with one 6BM8 Tube

  Some Application Examples:
 Low Watt Guitar or Music Amplifier
 Low Watt Amp for Guitar-Speaker Isolation Cabinet
 Saturating Power Tube Amp for Recording
 Power Tube Distortion Pedal

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The heart of the Amplifier is a single ECL82 tube. Enclosed in it's envelope is a triode alongside a
penthode, the latter making up the output stage of this single-ended circuit. Input level control
potentiometer at the input is optional and can be replaced with a 1 Meg Ohm fixed resistor to ground. The
final stage utilizes the penthode driving the output transformer. The ECL82 is operated purely in cathode
bias mode. There is a Negative Feedback signal taken from the secondary transformer wiring. Feedback
is taken to the cathode of the triode.
Power Supply requirements are 250-280 VDC/45mA and 6.3V/800mA AC or DC filament voltage.
Fig.1 Tiny Amp Schematic

Fig.1
Specifications:
Frequency Response: 50Hz - 20kHz (-3dB)
Input sensitivity: 0.3 V
Input Impedance: 250k
Supply Voltage: 250 - 280 VDC/35-45mA
Power Output:3 Watt Max.
Tube: ECL82/6BM8
 MAIN PARTS
REF.
DESCRIPTION QUANTITY PART No: SUPPLIER
#
Hammond Chassis 13.5" P-H1441-
NA 1 www.tubesandmore.com
x 5" x 2" 18BK3
Potentiometer 250K R-V250K-
P1 1 www.tubesandmore.com
audio w. switch N2
9 pin tube socket,
NA 1 P-ST9-511 www.tubesandmore.com
chassis mnt.
NA 1/4" input jack 1 W-SC11 www.tubesandmore.com
NA terminal strip, 5 position 4 P-0501H www.tubesandmore.com
NA binding post 2 S-H266B www.tubesandmore.com
6BM8/ECL82 vacuum
V1 1 T-6BM8 www.tubesandmore.com
tube
TR2 Output Transformer SE 1 P-T31 www.tubesandmore.com
C-ET4D7-
C6 capacitor 4.7uF/350V 1 www.tubesandmore.com
350
OTHER PARTS:
Resistors (0.25W 5% unless noted otherwise):
R1 = 2.2K
R2 = 220K
R3 = 820K
R4 = 560R/1W
R5 = 33K
R6 = 33K/0.5W
R7 = 1K
Rs = series resistor 470 Ohms 2 Watts (see note* below)

Capacitors:
C1 = 0.22uF/100-250V film cap
C2 = 0.033uF/400V film cap
C3 = 100pF/100-1000V film or ceramic
C4 = 220uF/25-50V electrolytic
C5 = 0.01uF/400-630V film

Semiconductors:
BR1 = rectifier bridge 400V/1A (Fig.3)
D1, D2 = 1N4007 (Fig.4)

Misc.: fuse holder, Fu1 0.2A MDL, Fu2 0.1A AGC, rubber feet.

Above parts you may allready have in your junk box or you can buy at your
local Radio Shack store.
Construction
The amp circuit can be assembled using the traditional point-to-point soldering. Terminal strips (Radio
Shack# 274-688 or tubesandmore.com)are used for this type of assembly. A metal chassis can be
purchased to accommodate the amplifier and power supply as well.
First, install all mechanical components, like input-output jacks, tube socket, power switch, fuse holders
and controls. Two separate fuses, main power fuse and HT B+ fuse, are recommended. Next install
power supply transformer, output transformer and terminal strips. Use enough terminal strips, 1.25"-1.50"
apart, to accommodate all power supply and amplifier components. Start with power supply assembly
first. Follow proper grounding techniques to avoid oscillation and hum. Grounding should follow one path
to a central chassis grounding point (e.g. one of the terminal strip mounting screws).
Use a twisted stranded 20Ga wire for the filament connection. Run this wire close to the chassis and
away from the input jack and volume pot. The speaker return (GND) wire should also run separate to the
central grounding point. The metal chassis should also have only one (if possible)connection to the
central grounding point. Use one conductor shielded wire from volume pot to control grid (pin 1). Ground
only one side of the shielded cable. Example of component placement and point to point wiring is shown
in Fig.2 (Bottom View). Install the series resistor on a separate terminal strip (not shown in picture). This
resistor may get warm. After installing all components, double-check your wiring. Install a 0.2 A MDL main
fuse and 0.1 (100mA) AGC HT fuse. Install the tube. Turn the volume pot fully CCW for no signal.
Connect your voltmeter test leads to the HT B+ power supply output and ground. Mini-clip test leads
(Radio-Shack# 278-1160) are very useful for this measurement. Switch your meter to 500 VDC. Now turn
on the power and watch the voltmeter. Your instrument should read at least 240 VDC instantly. If is not
indicating any voltage or very little, turn off the power immediately. There is a wiring error. Correct the
problem and try again. HT fuse may be blown. Do not apply power longer than is necessary to take the
measurement. Next, measure the filament voltage. When everything turns out O.K., apply power and
check plate, screen and cathode voltages. Compare measured voltages to values shown below. Allow +/-
10% discrepancy depending on tube brand and condition.
DC Voltages after tube warm-up (3-5 min.) based on B+ 270V
Penthode cathode (pin 2)= 18 Volts
Penthode plate (pin 6)= 267 Volts
Penthode screen (pin 7)= 262 Volts
Triode cathode (pin 8)= 1.3 Volts
Triode plate (pin 9)= 100 Volts

If measurements turn out O.K, let the amp warm up for 10-15 minutes. Watch the tube for any signs of
overheating. Only the filament and the cathode (center part of the tube) should glow orange. Any other
part of the tube should remain dark.
Fig.2 Wiring example

Power supply shown in Fig.3

Fig.3 This type of configuration works with a transformer without center tap. R20 is the bleeding resistor.
*NOTE: the series resistor [Rs] determines the B+ output voltage and should be sized accordingly.
A center tap transformer is used in the power supply shown in Fig.4

Fig.4

The power transformer TR1 must provide at least 60mA continuous plate current and 800mA filament
current. Cathode and screen resistors of the output tube are calculated for 270 Volts plate voltage. If your
power supply has different plate voltage, the resistors should be re-calculated accordingly. Alternatively
the series resistor should be increased or decreased in order to adjust the voltage to the correct value.

POWER SUPPLY PARTS

REF. # DESCRIPTION QUANTITY PART No: SUPPLIER
Power Transformer,
TR1 1 P-T269EX www.tubesandmore.com
Fig.4
Power Transformer,
TR1 1 P-T261G6 www.tubesandmore.com
Fig.3
C20, capacitor 47uF/350V C-ET47-
2 www.tubesandmore.com
21 axial 350
bleeding resistor 150k
R20 1 R-E150K www.tubesandmore.com
1W

MAXIMUM TUBE RATINGS:

penthode plate current: 40mA
penthode plate voltage: 300 VDC
penthode screen current: 8mA.
Exceeding these ratings will damage or shorten the life of the tube.

TROUBLESHOOTING
Condition: upon power-up a loud high pitch noise or motoring sound comes out of the speaker.
Solution: Negative Feedback is at wrong phase. Reverse the output (speaker) wires on the transformer.
Condition: sound is distorted.
Solution: check all tube voltages, compare to values indicated above. Adjust your input voltage if its to
high. Replace the tube if unsure of its condition.
Condition: tube outside (anode) glows dark red.
Solution: BIAS voltage to low. Increase cathode resistor R4.
Condition: tube outside (anode) glows dark red. BIAS is O.K.
Solution: output transformer plate winding resistance too low or shorted. Replace transformer.
Condition: amp is dead, no sound. Voltages checkout O.K.
Solution: wiring error, no input signal or input shorted. Bad output transformer or speaker