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Women and the salon

Exploratory research about drivers, perceptions, experience


and reasons for disaffection
International Synthesis
France Italy Germany United States

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries


1
Background,
methodology and
targets reminder

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries


Over the years, in the European countries and the United States, we have
observed a decrease of the frequency of visits to hairdressing salons, or at
least, a lack of dynamism of this sector.

While at the same time other beauty channels are evolving more positively, in
particular in the luxury sector and other taking care places have emerged
(spa, beauty salons, nail bars, …).

The qualitative research aims at exploring, amongst the 25-55 year old women
target group :

-The importance of hair and hairdressing


-Identify their sources of inspiration
-Understand their perception of the hairdressing salon, hairdresser, and
beauty offer
-Uncover their in-salon experience

The research has been conducted in France, Germany, Italy and United States.

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 3


A research conducted in 4 countries

HAMBURG
48 FRANKFURT

NEW YORK
PARIS 50
50 CHICAGO
TOURS
DIJON 48 MILAN
ROME

196
women interviewed

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 5


Our target
Women involved in their appearance and taking care of their hair
2 hour in home interviews with women going to the hairdresser salon yet whose visits have
been getting less frequent over the last 2-3 years
Groups of women regularly going to the hairdresser salons (at least 5 times a year in Italy, 6
times a year in France, Germany and United States)
No woman mainly driven by strong financial constraints so that other barriers to going to a
hairdressing salon can be identified
- women going to hairdressing salon A, B or C, with a mix of franchise and independent
hairdressing salons, big and small hairdressing salons
- women going at least to one other beauty/care place from time to time

A good mix of age (22-55 y.o.), hair color, hair type (straight, curled, wavy, natural, tinted,
streaked…), hair length
A good mix between home practices and in-salon practices
1/3 of women having bought at least once a professional product
Mix of women being faithful and unfaithful to their hairdressing salon
All women having a certain level of professional or social activity yet different activity levels and
life stages

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 6


Summary

Cultural and societal background

Hair : a key role in femininity

Hairdressing salon: a place with a strong potential yet under-exploited

A professional difference insufficiently highlighted

A hairdressing salon that can be re-enchanted

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 7


2
Cultural and
societal
background

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries


Personal achievement /development : the new “must-be”, with 2
key injunctions : be yourself and be happy!

Be happy! « They all used to have a


chignon, it was all about codes;
now we can do anything, even
Success and achievement have become pervasive in all change the hair structure »
dimensions of life : the model of professional and financial measures of (France)
success of the 80s have been replaced by the degree of individual personal
development and happiness
« There are no ugly women,
Happiness is a new social injunction and the marker of “success” : a there are just women that do
successful life is a happy life not take care of themselves »
Paradoxically, fulfilment has become a goal to achieve and every (France)
moment must be lived to the full as a principle…otherwise, it’s a waste
and a failure
« When you feel great inside, I
In this context, women in particular, who lead multiple lives in one
mean happy and full of life,
are extremely time-constrained, see time for themselves as their main half of the beauty job is done »
source of pleasure (vs. free time with kids or a romantic dinner with their (US)
partner, etc.) and therefore expect a lot from it

The little time they take to take care of themselves should be « Today a woman’s life is
perfect and a real “me-moment”, an indulging and enjoyable hard : she should think as a
man, work like a horse and
experience, a reward
look like a young girl »
Hence the need for a very attentive service in personal care and (Germany)
beauty places, a service that should be centred on women

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 9


Personal achievement /development : the new “must-be”, with 2
key injunctions : be yourself and be happy!

« They all used to have a


Be yourself! chignon, it was all about codes;
now we can do anything, even
change the hair structure »
The end of a very normative and constraining societal/social (France)
model forcing individuals into lives they had/could not choose and could
therefore rebel against and not take responsibility for
The end of the realm of a standardized perfection ideal « There are no ugly women,
Social obligations now lie in the taking care process, and there are just women that do
beautifying intents, but within the respect of the “uniqueness of the not take care of
individual” themselves » (France)

Flaws are now accepted and can be valorised as bringing an “edge”, an


attractive uniqueness (France and Germany ++)
« When you feel great inside, I
mean happy and full of life,
This new individual freedom has made women responsible for half of the beauty job is done »
their lives and for their looks (US)
All the more as there are now more technical possibilities are offered
and constitute a wider array of choice for women
« Today a woman’s life is
Hence a growing need for personalised services, which place the hard : she should think as a
man, work like a horse and
whole individual at the heart of their concern vs. a technical and partial
look like a young girl »
approach (Germany)

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 10


Personal achievement /development : the new “must-be”, which
also applies in hair care…

Hair and expression of self : both an opportunity


and an obligation

Women are free to wear their hair the way they want it: long
or short, tied or loose, etc. in most social circumstances
A woman is not necessarily defined by long hair anymore
(although long hair remains a strong attribute of femininity)
A woman can express her true self through her hair

More, in the above-mentioned context, a woman should


express her true self and unique personality through her hair and
will be judged upon that and will be held responsible for her
appearance

Hence, a strong pressure and again, a need for more


personalization in the advice and service provided

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Consequently, strong expectations from the care and beauty
spots women go to

Well-being and pleasure


Moments for oneself must be successful; to be successful, they
must be nice
They also must convey a real sensorial pleasure

Efficiency « When it feels good,


the odor, the massage, I
A stronger and stronger efficiency demand think to myself that half
But pleasure as the base of efficiency : without pleasure, a lower of the way is done »
efficiency (FR)

The end of a paradigm « suffering for beauty »

Customization
« I want something
The wish to express one’s « uniqueness »
dedicated to me, that
will help me enhance
It accounts for the importance of customization and my own beauty»
tailor made requiring the help of a guide, an expert (Germany)

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 12


With quite different beauty standards from a
country to another

Natural Sculptural
beauty beauty
• Improve one’s nature • Transform one’s nature
• Beauty must be controlled to • Beauty must be mastered to the
look natural smallest details to reach
• Support one’s femininity perfection
• Celebrate one’s femininity

Source : what is beauty- quali/quanti 2011

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3
Hair : a key
role in femininity

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries


The essential place of hair in the construction of the
« feminine being »

« You can not easily loose 20 kilos but a


A beauty issue hairstyle can radically change you »
(France)

The key stone of appearance


“You can do many different things with
your hair. You can put it up. You can put
A base of femininity ponytail. You put in a bun. You can twist it.
You can curl it, straighten it. I think it’s part
of your accessory, right?” (US)
A faithful asset

An accessory and something that « A cut can be as drastic as a lifting » (US)


can in turn be accessorized

Going to the hairdressing salon is « My hair is all I have left » (US)

potentially about « beauty - pleasure -


self-expression » « As time goes by, my hair are getting
But in reality : more and more important because they
allow me to compensate other things :
- are we being talked about beauty ? wrinkles, weight,… » (France)
- do we feel enough pleasure ?
- can we express our audacities ?
Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 15
The essential place of hair in the construction of the
« feminine being »

« When you change


An identity issue, your hairstyle, you feel
like you change your
individual and social life. » (France)

A strong identity marker

The indicator of a life stage ““My company was bought


by another company and I
thought I kind of had to
The expression of a social status change myself as this
was also a big change.”
(US)
The indicator of a level of control

Going to the hairdressing salon is « With straight hair, I feel


neater and more
potentially an involving action, that goes presentable. » (FR)
way beyond just a « beauty
enhancement »

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 16


The beautiful hair and head of hair : a very unanimous
definition

Bouncy
Strong

Soft
Healthy
No split ends

Thick
Shiny

Smooth fiber
Abundant hair
With volume
Long
« When I had my shingled hair style, men
would not look at me » (France)
« Just like in shampoo
advertisings » (FR)

A powerful archetype shared in all countries

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 17


Hair : the reflect of a good health and self care

Health = an important notion in


the universe of hair care “Hair is like a nice frame of a picture
that reflects how you take care of
yourself, if there is no care there it
Healthy hair reflects a good overall health means there is no care inside” (Italy)
condition
Hair that has been taken care of reflects
the overall psychological condition and a
good level of self esteem

Sick or sad hair and it can affect your


“When I see a girl with flaxen hair, I think to
integrity! myself that she must be sick.” (France)

A «moral » judgment about hair health condition


that can be feared when going to the salon
A great base of development for hair care

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 18


A beautiful hair style : common characteristics

Straight +
A uniform color

Neat Not frizzy


Defined curls

Beyond the benefit of « neatness » , hairstyle is first


and foremost the expression of one’s personality

Harmony between personality, morphology and


expression of a style prevails

It accounts for the need for a personalized support with “The cut needs to be
personalized, we are all
professionals, technically skilled, yet able to listen and understand different” (Italy)
each woman

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 19


To sum up

Hairdressing salon
= a « beauty place » potentially
really important for a woman,
where many things are at stake…

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 20


4 The hairdressing
salon : a place with a
strong potential yet
under-exploited
1- A place that does not
stimulate women’s imagination
enough…

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries


A place that does not fire women’s imagination enough

Receiving as a gift 100 € Massage


What do women spend this money for ?
For which beauty/taking care places ? « It would be a
What are their segmentation criteria for these places ? complete massage,
from head to toe » (FR)
Beauty Salon
Face and body
care « first of all, fake nails
and a body scrub and
a massage ! » (IT)

Nails care
« a more expensive « I would go for fake
hairdresser» (IT) nails » US
Perfumery « I would buy a
perfume » FR

Salon Despite the importance of hair, hairdressing


salons are not much mentioned, except for the
« a very upmarket salon to have
extensions done » (FR) very luxurious ones providing expensive services

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 22


As it shows in the beauty/care spots segmentation
Inward
For well-being
Long term and holistic benefit Spa
Sauna
Thalasso

Going out Massage


/shopping

Necessity,
Dream, aspirational,
sustainment, Beauty salon gratification
maintenance
Indispensable to maintain Creates desire,
oneself stimulates imagination
Nails care

Gym

Solarium

Hairdresser
Outward
For appearance
Immediate and visible benefit
Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 23
As it shows in the beauty/care spots segmentation
Interior
For well-being

Yet a deficit in the well-being


and dream dimensions

Necessity,
Dream, aspirational,
sustainment,
gratification
maintenance

A chance! « Going to the hairdresser for


me is just like going to the
A beauty place that provides an immediate action dentist’ or the gynecologist’s.
on a visible beauty » (France)

And a place where women have to go

« We have to go, hair grows »


(France)
Hairdresser
Exterior
For appearence

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 24


4 The h airdressing
salon: a place with a
strong potential yet
under-exploited
2 – Different reasons for
disaffection show this
distance

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries


Reasons why visitis in salon are getting less frequent

In all countries, except for very upmarket hairdressing salons,

The salon is a place :

1/ that is no longer adapted to women’s modern lifestyle

2/ that no longer meets women’s beauty expectations

3/ that does not trigger desire

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 26


1/ A place that is no longer adapted to women’s modern
lifestyle
“I end up doing my coloration at
midnight sometimes” (US)

In the context of strong time constraints


“You feel like you must do it today.
You can’t just go. You need to make
Too restrictive opening days/hours an appointment. They’re not
available at the time that you want
•No late opening hours in Germany to go, so I just do it myself. It’s
•Salons do not accept clients after 6 pm easier. It’s faster.” USA
•Closing day on Sundays
Services that last too long
•Time-consuming technical services (tinting, “I just don't have the time.
smoothing…) It’s taking too long” (US)
“Everything is difficult
•Idle times when you have a full time
job : difficult to have an
•No express « packages », dedicated to a appointment, difficult to
specific service (roots touch up for example) schedule it .” (ALL) “In London they are even
open on Sunday. And I don’t
understand why at 6pm you
cannot go to have a hairdo
because they are closing.”
“ They don’t have like an (IT)
express root touch-up
service which I could do at
lunch time” US
Explicit reasons
++
Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 27
1/ A place that is no longer adapted to women’s modern
lifestyle
“ They don’t treat you well,
esp. at the shampoo, I
sometimes get her nails in
In a context in which each moment for my scalp!” (GER)
oneself has to be successful and has to
be nice
“I think it is horrible if she pulls with that round brush
and my head needs to follow the pull” GERMANY
A lack of physical well-being
•Not enough cocooning moments
•A place that can lack of comfort “They made me sit down on
•The feeling to be sometimes « mistreated » an armchair, then on another
one, all the other clients had
(chains ++) a coffee but I did not get
A lack of valorization, if not even of anything!” (FR)
respect “ When you enter the salon,
you often stand to wait with
•A welcome that can lack warmth and softness
all the eyes upon you but
and that can be intimidating not necessarily a hello”
•The feeling to be left alone and forgotten about (FR)
at certain times
•The feeling to be just a « head »/ a “bunch of « When you get in the salon, it feels as if you do not
hair” exist » (France)

More implicit reasons


++
Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 28
1/ A place that is no longer adapted to women’s modern
lifestyle
In all countries, an uneven emotional experience in the hairdressing salon
GERMANY UNITED STATES
+ + The « mini-spa »

SHAMPOO

BRUSHING
HAIRCUT
WELCOME
BRUSHING
TINTING

CARE
WELCOME

TINTING
SHAMPOO

-
HAIRCUT

FRANCE
+
+ ITALY
CARE

BRUSHING
SHAMPOO

HAIRCUT
CARE
TINTING

HAIRCUT

BRUSHING
WELCOME
WELCOME

SHAMPOO
TINTING

- -
Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 29
1/ A place that is no longer adapted to women’s modern
lifestyle
In all countries, an even emotional experience in the hairdressing salon
GERMANY UNITED STATES

“They should not talk and should be “The one I used to go to, they did a
concentrated, a massage has to do scalp and neck massage. You just
with calm and silence.” GER want to go for a shampoo.” USA

“I feel bad, they always make my “That always feels so good, when
hair thinner.” GER somebody else washes your hair.
It’s always nice to get pampered.”
USA

FRANCE
ITALY

« They are not necessarily attentive, he tends


“I know them for so long, I enter and he touches
to be light-handed, to cut more than I asked, I
my hair to see how it is, to understand how much
see he is happy, so he has cut so much, he
to cut, I feel at home” IT
tells me he is sorry» FR

« The shampoo is the moment “I wish that shampoo moment would


when I let go » FR never end… I almost fall asleep” IT
-
Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 30
1/ A place that is no longer adapted to women’s modern
lifestyle

Because of this emotional deficit, women tend to


develop new home routines, facilitated by:

The diversification of the offer


For tinting, a wider choice of shades, a better ergonomic
and an easier application
An access to more elaborated technics such as streak or
extensions
A development of the care offer

Hairdresser’ closeness and complicity “I keep my original


In the US, Italy and France, hairdressers tell women about color, I buy the same
product my hairdresser
which professional products brand and number to buy at used for me… this
wholesalers’ means I spare on the
Advices and tricks are provided to help women avoid the cost of the color and I do
it when I want and I have
“slavery” of coloration or streaks (associated with more time” (Italy)
frequent visits to the salon)

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 31


2/ A place that does not match women’s beauty
expectations

A place that can inhibit women’s desires and


expectations
•Too little intimacy « I wanted Julia Robert
•Hairdressers who sometimes try to shy away from hair, but the hairdresser’s
women’s expectations of « performance » (women show could not do it !» (IT)
pictures from magazines)
•And who do not always adapt to women’s desires

An approach which is mainly technically-


oriented, and insufficiently beauty-oriented
•Professional terms, only related to hair, hair diagnostic, “ I almost have the feeling that
products specificities they do whatever they want to
•Too few attention to the overall result: the global woman do because they think this is
the way it has to be done, even
beauty though I do not like it” (FR)

More implicit reasons

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 32


2/ A place that no longer meets women’s beauty expectations

In the context of an increasing expectation of help to express one’s


uniqueness, to reveal one’s personality and unique beauty, a service
that is not personalized enough
Except for a minority of upmarket creators, too much standardization
No “objective” indicator to help women choose

Personalization
Creators hairdressers

Independent and local


hairdressing salons Within a range level:
Down-market - similar decors, without much of identity Upmarket
- an identical service offer
- no quality « charter » or « label »

Hairdressers in
department stores Qualitative chains

Chinese salons Mid-range

Cheap chains
Standardisation
More implicit reasons
Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 33
3/ A place that does not trigger desire

Few perceived innovations in terms of hair


services offer

Except extensions and Brazilian straightening that


women did not necessarily discover via the hairdresser “I do not think it is very dynamic.” (FR)

but rather via magazines, word of mouth, whereas the


hairdresser should be the reference…

« Novelties » rather related to the


“environment” at large vs. hair services
“Smoothing has replaced perm, but apart
The « little » attentions (drinks) from that, I did not see much innovation.”
(FR)

The democratization of salons/services (low cost salons ,


« good deals » ex: Groupon)

Massages… “The services are the same, but the service


is different.” (US)

More implicit reasons

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 34


3/ A place that does not trigger desire

A place that is not really inspiring « They never talk to me about


beauty trends; what’s new out
there; I don’t ask either but…. » IT
No mention of beauty trends, fashion, during the visits
Quite clinical decors lacking of glamour and emphasizing
the technical dimension to the detriment of the beauty
dimension « the look of the girls on the portfolio
Marketing and merchandising material that do not are so old-fashioned…. » US
necessarily trigger desire (old material, not inappropriate
styles, anonymous models vs. celebrities…)
« in my salon, their catalogues are
Few impulsive visits triggered by a window (vs. old and dog earned, it does not make
me want to try things. » FR
RTW)

Sources of inspiration are rather outside of the


salon : celebrities, magazines, television, movies…
Celebrities hairstyle that stimulate women’s imagination
and trigger their desire “Usually a magazine, or a celebrity
that has changed their look. …I
look at magazines and I want to
change it all the time. I want to be
like Jennifer Lopez.” (US)
More implicit reasons
Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 35
To sum up

The hairdressing salon


= a « beauty place » that does not
trigger women’s imagination…
And an added value which is not
emphasized enough

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 36


5
A professional
difference insufficiently
emphasized
1- A lack of emphasis of the professional
difference in salon

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries


The professional difference
In all countries,

The professional difference of the salon can be developed on 3 levels :

1/ Hairdresser’s technical know-how and expertise

2/ Professional products used in the salon

3/ Professional retail products

Today, a lack of enhancement of these three dimensions, in which


personalization is not developed enough

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 38


A perceived know-how yet not emphasized enough
The hairdresser technical know-how and expertise are
unevenly perceived and appreciated, depending on the
step of the visit

- An undisputed know-how on the blow-dry: hairdressers have the knack “I found out there's a lot of
of it and the results of a professional blow-dry cannot be reproduced at home technique in how they dry
your hair and the
equipment they use. I
- A recognized expertise on the haircut, thought to be the heart of the didn't realize they take a
whole class just on blow
hairdressing profession, yet the feeling they do it in too « academic» a way,
drying.” – US-Chicago
with a systematic application of techniques learnt at school and a deficit of
personalization at two levels
The hairdresser himself does not emphasize enough his unique knack, his
own specific techniques
The hairdresser does not get inspiration from the woman herself : he takes
into account his own capacities and tastes rather than the woman’s wishes,
hopes and personality

A variety of haircut techniques to be emphasized, a personal knack to


be claimed, an « inspiration » to communicate
Women’s wishes have to be taken into account and enhanced

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 39


A perceived know-how yet not emphasized enough
The hairdresser technical know-how and expertise are
unevenly perceived and appreciated, depending on the « A good colorist should have
step in the visit an expert eye, a sense of
beauty, a good taste » FR

- re. the coloration step, an under-estimated expertise and a perceived


added value from colorist limited to her knowledge about numbers and
dosages and her capacity to « cover the head homogeneously » (vs. at
home)
to bring an irreplaceable added value, a good colorist would go further
than the basic implementation of her knowledge about mixtures and numbers
she would give personal advice to reach an optimal beauty result
- re. streaks or highlights, more perceived added value due to the know-
how in application
“She does color as well. I kind of
know what I want so it’s not hard
for her. It’s like mixing a
A profession to upgrade : the hairdresser can be a colorist or not. cocktail, so you have two parts of
Professional tools to point out at? Mixture techniques to explain? rum, with one part of vodka.”
(US- New York City)
A common vocabulary to establish
A personalized beauty-oriented approach to develop

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 40


A perceived know-how yet not emphasized enough
The hairdresser technical know-how and expertise are unevenly
perceived and appreciated, depending on the step in the visit

- re. the other steps, the absence of a real perceived added value in the salon
- no expertise seems to be required for the shampoo and care steps, a perception that
can be explained by different factors :
- junior hairdressers in charge of these steps
- no emphasis of the gestures/rituals (impact of massage on scalp health
massage, appearance of hair, reinforcing of product action?...)
- no comments, explanations about the products that are used hence women
challenge the care skills and the personalization of the care provided
- the only real perceived added value by women of the shampoo and care step in
salon vs. at home is related to the well-being provided by the massage and the
relaxation on the massage chair, the head in the warm towel (US ++)

a care dimension to emphasize through the personalization of the choice of


products and through a communication about the hairdresser’s ability to do a good
hair diagnosis and to choose the right products accordingly

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 41


Professional products used in salon on which
hairdressers do not communicate enough
At every step of the visit, no emphasizing of the
„The effect of the products is the
products that are used same as with regular products
they just smell better.”
- re. technical steps, however the feeling of better products vs. mass
market products
Notably the coloration products (+ other techniques) are perceived by women
as more qualitative and efficient : hair look better, brighter, softer and silkier,
a better cover of the grey hair and a long-lasting result
- re. shampoo/care steps, a double deficit : „They have these big dispensers
too often, the absence of explanations about the products that are used, and you do not know what is in
there, they sell expensive
their ingredients, their action, their benefits for the hair, in which way they are
products but they do not use
particularly adapted to a specific case them themselves.”
a sensorial experience with the product that does not convince women
despite an incomparable result on hair after the visit, a difficulty to
identify the action of a product
« The products helps straighten the
- re. hairdressing: hair better »
« I think it protects hair from heat »
A product whose role is not clear (protection, extension, enhancing…), and
(FR)
the associated sensorial experience can be disappointing (weighs the hair
down, makes it sticky…)

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 42


Retail products that are not convincing enough

Retail products fail to convince women for 3 main „The effect of the products is the
same as with regular products
reasons: they just smell better.”

1/ Deficit of prescription from the hairdresser, often not


really at ease in the selling process and who does not present
the retail products early enough during the visit
„They have these big dispensers
2/ Lack of conviction of the hairdresser himself when and you do not know what is in
presenting the product, which is not sufficiently introduced as there, they sell expensive
being the « perfect » product for the client (vs. beauty salons) products but they do not use
them themselves.”

A product that is for sure more expensive and maybe more


qualitative since it is sold in professional retail channels yet for
which real benefits (functional, sensorial, emotional)?

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 43


Retail products that are not convincing enough

Retail products that fail to convince women for 3 main On Bumble and Bumble brand
shampoo: “It’s okay, but it’s so
reasons expensive, it’s not really worth it.
It’s not that great. In other words, it’s
3/ Few concrete arguments that would prove and strengthen not that great that I have to buy it.” –
US New York City
the professional difference

A “plus” in terms of sensorial experience – olfactory signature


(France / Germany ++), a different texture

The perception of a more concentrated formula « It is a “placebo” , the smell from


the salon. »
Yet a difficulty for women to identify and define the real
added value of the product in terms of hair result vs. mass
market products
Kérastase (FR, IT, not so much known in Germany): a certitude
that the product is more qualitative, an olfactory signature that
contributes to the efficiency, but few can afford it as the price is
perceived as prohibitive
L’Oréal Professionnel : the reputation of L’Oréal ensures quality yet
immediately a comparison to mass market products (All++)

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 44


5
A professional
difference not
emphasized enough
2- A lack of emphasis of the professional
products by the brands

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries


Professional brands not emphasized enough

Little curiosity of women for the brands used in


salon

In the 4 countries, women who trust the hairdresser and


leave the judgment to him

In the US, women refuse the interference of the hairdresser


“If someone gives good
as a matter of principle advice and if I receive a
good consultancy, I try the
product, it depends on the
hairdresser’s knowledge.”
GERMANY

« I have NO idea what it is they use; I


have never thought of asking actually, I
trust him» USA

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 46


Professional brands not emphasized enough

Brand images not nourished enough

By the hairdressers
Few communications on the brands they use
An approach focused on the « good quality » of the products,
without any other information about the brand and its universe
« My hairdresser used to use
(vs. beauty salon) LP, now she uses an italian
brand, I am not quite sure
By the brands themselves anymore, but she said this
brand also provides good
Professional brands that did not establish a « beauty » products. » (France)
emotional territory (vs. Skincare in selective channels)
Professional brands that do not have their own range of
hairdressing salons (vs. beauty salons) allowing them to convey
their vision of beauty, of hair and of women

« There are display cases but on the


By the display in the salon : lack of readability other hand, we do not know if they
•A sometimes chaotic coexistence of several brand names use and sell the same products .»
(posters, portfolios, basin products, retail products, display (FR)
shelves, etc.)
•A grey area regarding the use by hairdressers of the retail
products
Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 47
… intensified by a weak or bad visibility
A lack of visibility and readability concerning the brands in
the salon that strengthens vagueness and confusion

•A sometimes chaotic coexistence of several brand names (posters,


portfolios, products, display cases, etc.)
•Shelves that do not really look professional : a mixtures of genres, of
brand names, shelves not always well maintained and emphasized
•A grey area regarding the actual use in salon of the retail products,
which can be annoying for women

Brands images with little substance…

Image is mainly built on personal experience, no memories of


communications or packaging

Advertisements (mainly on television) for brands having a mass-


market range are even sometimes confused with ranges sold in
mass-market channels

Marketing in the salon remains marginal

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 48


6 A salon that can be
re-enchanted

1- A gap between today’s reality and


women’s expectations

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries


Re-enchanting the salon : reveal the whole
potential of the salon
Interior
For well-being
Spa
Sauna Thalasso « I know that when I am
Massage gonna get out of the salon, I
Going out will look great! » (US)
/shopping
Necessity, sustainment, Dream, aspirational,
maintenance gratification
Beauty salon

Hairdresser
Nails care
Gym « Talk to me about beauty!
Solarium How I can become more
beautiful !» (France)
Hairdresser
Exterior
For appearance

Levers to activate:

More well-being : focusing attention on women


More dream: go further than technic and trigger desire
More beauty-oriented approach : go further than hair to talk about beauty

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 50


How to reinject well-being, beauty and dream ?

Enhance : make each woman a


« queen » and reveal her unique
Enhancement
beauty

Self Develop self-esteem : help each


esteem
woman feel more beautiful

Emotional safety
and empathy
Sensation of emotional safety
(feel confident, feel good about
More holistic individual oneself) and self esteem
consultation

Hair diagnostic /
technical consultation Technic as an indispensable
foundation: the visible proof of
professionalism (advice,
Technical know-how and skill
techniques, products…)

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 51


Hierarchy of needs

• Fire women’s imagination with material and contents


representing beauty in an iconic way
Enhancement

• Help each woman feel more beautiful, in her own


way, unique
Self
• Show her in which way the service will beautify her
esteem
• The need to feel listened, respected
Emotional safety • The need to feel esteemed, as a unique person
and empathy
• A more holistic and personal approach,
hair being part of appearance
More holistic individual • An approach based on coaching, look, in a global way
consultation
• Today, a hair diagnostic very limited or absent
Hair diagnostic / • Tomorrow, the need to head for a more professional,
technical consultation intimate, personal and sensorial diagnostic approach

Technical know-how and skill


• Today, a minimum contract
• A foundation that could be strengthened to convey
the professional dimension in a stronger way :
news tools, new techniques, new professional
signature

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 52


7
Conclusions
Main insights

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries


Hair, the zone of body where lie all the women’s personal
issues
… health, psychological condition, social image, statutory,
reflect of personality, expression of identity, of femininity, of
seduction…

Hair, the zone of the body where lie all desires and the
strongest projections
…the only part that women can hope to glorify like our icons;
the only part that women can hope will stay forever young

Around hair styling, so much shyness, inhibition,


repressed desire
And still when entering a hairdressing salon…The fear is there
: the fear of not feeling oneself afterwards, of others’ look upon
you, of too radical a transformation, of being disappointed

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries


The hairdressing salon, a place still far from these issues and
desires…
…a banal place, not innovating, whose offer has remained the
same, except for a few services
…a place that lacks inspiration, that does not stimulate desire
…a place where emotional experience is uneven

And still, the hairdressing salon is potentially the perfect place


to trigger women’s imagination
… it could talk about beauty
… it could boost women’s ego, listen to them, support women on
their way to the revelation of their unique beauty

Strengthening expertise, personalization and excellence :


Hence a need for excellence and personalization emerges :
…to be even more supported, in a personal approach, to reach
excellence in hair results
…a visible and important professional difference on hair and
hairstyle…

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries


An opportunity for professional brands
…the possibility to emphasize more the experience of a
professional difference, both from a sensorial and final result point
of view
…the possibility to support hairdressers in a transformation of their
role : tend to a real coach attitude
…the possibility to change the routines of each step of the
experience by re-injecting :

- symbols : strengthen the symbols of expertise – emphasize and


renew professional tools, emphasize the multi-sensorial experience
as the first tag of efficiency

- pleasure : make each step a full/rich moment vs. an empty


moment or even worse an unpleasant moment

- listening: give hairdressers the keys for a better listening and


personalization of their advice

- dream: to upgrade the inspiration material in the hairdressing


salon so that it triggers desire, to make a connection with mass
media in order to reactivate women’s urge to go the hairdressing
salons

Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries


Women an d t h e h ai rdresser – I nt ernat ional Synt hesis 4 count ries 61