HOW TO STITCH SARI BLOUSE

Learn to stitch the indian sari blouse used for sari costume. The method
to stitch a blouse is very easy.

The pattern is useful in stitching a cut blouse.

Lets use a readymade measurement to stitch the blouse (refer above

diagram). I have used measurements in centimeter, You can do it with
inch measurement.

* chest = 91 cm
* full length = 38 cm
* Across back = 35 cm
* sleeve length = 25 cm

FRONT PART
* A - B = full length = 38 cm
* A-C = arm hole = (chest/4)-4 = (91-4)/4 = 18.7 cm
* C-D = chest loose = (chest/4)+2.5 = (91/4)+2.5 = 25.2 cm
* A-I = front part = chest/3 = 91/3 = 30.3cm
* A-E = shoulder = AB/2 = 35/2 = 17.5 cm
* A-F = Neck Breadth = (chest/12)+1.5 = 9 cm
* A-H = Front Neck = chest/8 = 11.3 cm
* K-B = patti part = full length-front part=7.7 cm

PATTI PART (K-B part in the above diagram)

* A-C = full length = 11 cm

* A-B = patti width

SLEEVE PART

* A-B = sleeve length = (chest/4)+2.5

* A-C = sleeve width = (chest/4)+2.5
* E-D = (chest/4-4)

Now let's see how to stitch the sari blouse. Before going to stitch the real
material , we'll draw the stitching pattern. I have used chart paper to
draw the stitching pattern. If u want to stitch a blouse of your size, take a
sample blouse you already have and take the measurements using inch
tape. It is nessesary to draw stitching patterns for both front and back
side .

BACK PART PATTERN

The curve on the right is the arm hole while the other curve is neck.

FRONT PART PATTERN

First draw a pattern same as the back side then from the
top measure 12 inch and draw a straight line. You can see
a straight line drawn at a distance of 12 inch from the
shoulder. The distance can vary from 12 to 13 inch based
on the breast size . A normal women can draw a line at
distance of 12" else 13".

Next measure 1/2 inch from the horizontal line and mark
it. Likewise measure 1/2 inch above the horizontal line on
both the extremes. Now as shown in the above diagram
draw a neat curve along the points . I've drawn the curve
in blue colour. Next step is to cut along the blue line like
the one below. The image below shows the front and the
back part pattern together.

Front part is cut into 2 parts. In the first part we have to

sew darts then attach the patti part(2nd part) to the front
piece.

In the above image i've drawn the darts . Those are the
places where you have to sew darts.Now let's see how to
sew darts using the cloth. Then take the material to stitch
blouse. Below is the material i have used. Fold the cloth to
the exact breadth size of the pattern once as shown in the
figure . Then mark the edges with marking chalk. Next
carefully cut the edges without disturbing them. Make sure
the neck part is placed on the folded side.
After unfolding you can see both sides of the blouse.
Then 2 small darts have to stitched at the back part
straight to the shoulders.
Then the main three darts have to be stitched carefully in
the front part. Look at the stitching pattern diagram above
for the three maindarts. The dart stitched at the bottom
should be bigger that the 2 darts at the left and right sides.
Darts at the back part and front part are stitched.
Next to the front part , the patti part has to be stitched.
After stitching the three main dots , the front part has to be
stitched to the patti part. The patti part should have the
remaining length so that it equals the back part.

Now the patti part is stitched to the main part. See to that
both back and front parts are of same length. Then make
sure you fold around the bottom line.

Next the front parts have to be joined to the back part.

Just do that by stitching the shoulders correctly.
Next sleeve part is cut and attached to the arm. There are
2 options to stitch sleeve, you can join the sides then
stitch the sleeve else you can stitch the sleeve and then
join the sides. It depends on your comfort level. To cut the
sleeve use ur model blouse for size. Just fold the cloth
once and place the model sleeve on it, then draw the
shape and cut it.

After the sleeve part is stitched, the neck crosspeice has

to be stitched and then hooks have to be stitched. Finally
we finish the complete blouse like this. Try and send your
feedback.

HOW TO SEW CUTTORI BLOUSE

A cuttori blouse is slightly different from the normal saree blouse. Cuttori
blouses are used normally to mingle two colours in the front part. Now i
will teach the pattern for the cuttori blouse.

First step is to learn the normal blouse if else you'll find it difficult so take
a look at the sari blouse post. Only one step modification is made in the
cuttori blouse compared to the normal blouse. Now draw the pattern for
a normal blouse. The small cut is for neck and the long cut is
forarmhole.
From the shoulder measure 12 inch and draw a straight line . In the
above image you can see the red line at a distance of 12 inch. Next
mark 1/2 inch above on both ends of red line and below center of red
line. Next draw a curve over the red line, i've used the blue pen to draw
the curve.

Next cut along the blue curve. This the procedure of the normal blouse.
Next for the cuttori blouse you have to draw one more curve and cut it
like the image below. This is their difference.

From the neck take a curve to the blue line curve. You can see the red
curve i've drawn. Thats the only difference in cuttori blouse.
Next cut along the red curve and only one main dart is sewed in that
part. You can see a triangle shape thats the place where you have to
sew dart. You can use a contrast colour or the same colour. Have a
perfect pattern which helps you to cut the cloth correctly.

After sewing the dart stitch them together so that agains comes back to
the shape of normal blouse. Then attach the patti part and finish the
whole blouse. Best of luck.

HOW TO CUT AND SEW CHURIDAR

Now let us see how to stitch a churidar like the above. Stitching a
chudithar top is easy . Accurate measurements , some practice will help
you to stitch anything well.
The above is the stitching pattern for the churidar , I've given the
readymade measurement for the above .

READYMADE MEASUREMENT

* full length = 105 cm

* Narrow waist = 39 cm
* Bust level = 25.5 cm
* shoulder = 38 cm
* chest = 92 cm
* Waist = 72 cm
* Hip = 100 cm
* sleve legth = 25 cm

measurements according to the diagram

* 1-2 = full length + 3 cm = 108 cm

* 1-6 = arm hole = (chest/4)-2.5 = (92/4)-2.5 = 20.5 cm
* 6-7 = chest loose = (chest/4)+2.5 = 25.5 cm
* 1-10 = narrow waist = 39 cm
* 2-11 = bottom = (chest/4)+10=33 cm
* 1-3 = neck breadth = chest/12 = 7.6 cm
* 1-5 = front neck = chest/8 = 11.5 cm
* u can keep the same length for back neck else back neck = chest/12 =
7.6 cm
* 3-8 = shoulder = shoulder/2=38/2 = 19 cm

Now using the below pics you can have an idea how to stitch a churidar
top. Using the stitching pattern i've drawn the pattern on a chart. If your
gonna stitch in your measurement , take your churidar and measure it
with a inch tape and draw the stitching pattern.

First take the cloth, fold it breadthwise first , next fold it lengthwise . After
that you can place thestitching pattern and mark the edges using
marking chalk. The material i've used has a lining material too so first im
gonna cut the lining material then the outer material. Beginers never cut
both materials together.

After cutting the lining material , next im gonna cut the outer material. Be
carefull that you dont disturb the cloth. Then cut the outer material.

Next join the front pieces and back pieces by stitching them throughout
the edges. Next you will have seperate front and back piece. Next stitch
the neck part using crosspiece or lining using extra cloth. Next stitch the
shoulders of both piece together.
Next cut the sleeve part, here i have used 3/4th sleeve and have taken
only the outer part so that it will be transparent. Stitch the sleeves to
the armhole. Next join the left and right sides of churidar. Fold and stitch
the openings below hip.

After the sleeves are attached the final outcome , the churidar is ready.
STITCH BABY CHEMISE
This is baby chemise. Let's see how to stitch it.

This is the stitching pattern for the baby chemise. The readymade
measurements for the baby chemise follows.

• chest = 60 cm, waist = 55 cm, narrow waist = 25 cm, full length =

55 cm
• a-b = full length = chest - 5 = 55cm
• a-c = narrow waist = (chest/2)-4 = 25 cm
• a-d = armhole = (chest/4)-2.5 = 12.5 cm
• d-e = chest loose = (chest/4) + 2.5 = 17.5 cm
• b-f = hem bottom = (chest/2)+10 = 40 cm
• a-i = shoulder = ab/2 = 12.5 cm
• a-j = neck breadth = (chest/12) + 1.5 = 6.5 cm
With the help of the above pattern draw the stitching pattern. First fold
the cloth breadthwise then lengthwise , next place the stitching pattern
on the cloth, mark the edges using marking chalk.

Cut the cloth carefully. You will get two seperate portions , front part and
back part. Now join the shoulders. Next stitch the neck part
usingcrosspiece . If you want , you can attach sleeves.
Next join two sides and the final thing is to fold and stitch the bottoms
and sleeve.

he stitching pattern for the flard skirt is drawn . Im gonna give you
the readymade measurement. You can use your measurement using
inch tape.

• waist = 50 cm
• skirt length = 25 cm
• a-b = waist/4 = 12.5 cm
• b-d = skirt length + 1.5 = 26.5 cm
• a-d & d-e = 12.5 + 26.5 = 39 cm
• b-f = waist / 4 = 12.5 cm
Using the above readymade measurement we can stitch a flard skirt.
Now lets see how to stitch a real time skirt. Take the cloth to be stitched.
First fold the cloth breadthwise next lengthwise like the one shown
below.

Next draw the stitching pattern using themeasurements given above or

your own. Place it on the cloth to be stitched. Mark the edges using a
marking chalk. Then cut them carefully without disturbing them.
STITCH SALWAR

This is a chudithar pant or salwar that we are gonna learn to stitch.

Stitching a pant is easy.
Now let us see the stitching pattern for a chudithar pant(salwar). I have
given the readymade measurement. You can try with your
ownmeasurement using a sample pant and a inch tape.

MEASUREMENT
• full length = 100 cm
• hip = 100 cm
• bottom = 38 cm
• a-b = full length = full length - bottom piece = 100 - 4 = 96 cm
• a -c = (hip/4)-5 = 20 cm
• b-g = hip/6 = 100/6 = 16.6 cm
• e-h = (width of cloth/2)-2 = (90/2)-2 = 43 cm
• h-i = (hip/3)+5 = 20 cm
• a-f & c-d = (hip/4)-8 = (100/4)-8 = 33 cm
Using the above measurement draw the stitching pattern. Next take the
cloth to be stitched. First fold the cloth breadthwise next lengthwise as
shown below.
First you have to cut the c-b part , verify the the stitching pattern
diagram above. Next keep the stitching pattern and mark the edges of
the stitching pattern using marking chalk. Then carefully cut the cloth
without disturbing it.

Next fold and stitch the bottom part and then you can join the edges
along the side till the end . Do this to both the leg pieces as shown in the
figure.Stitch and join the two legs . Keep some gatherings along the
waist as shown in the figure. Keep some gatherings so that the c-h part
is equal to c-d part , verify the stitching pattern diagram above.
Next cut the a-c part . In the a-c part stitch a small loop for the thread to
pass inside the pant , which is usefull to tie the pant. Now attach the c-b
part to the a-c part ,verify the stitching pattern above. Stitchthem
properly so that both diameter becomes equal.

After you stitch them , the complete salwar is ready.