THE

M U S H R O O M
G U I D E A N D
I D E N T I F I E R
The ultimate guide to
identifying, picking and
using mushrooms

PETER JORDAN
 THE

MUSHROOM
G U I D E A N D
I D E N T I F I E R
 THE

M USHROOM
G U I D E A N D
I D E N T I F I E R

The ultimate guide to identifying,

picking and using mushrooms

PETERJORDAN

m
HERMES
HOUSE
 Disclaimer
The publishers and authors cannot accept responsibility
for any identification of any mushroom made by users
of this guide. Although many species are edible for
many people, some species cause allergic reactions or
illness to some people: these are totally unpredictable.
Therefore, the publishers and authors cannot take
responsibility for any effects from eating
any wild mushroom.

This edition published by Hermes House

an imprint of
Anness Publishing Limited
Hermes House
88-89 Blackfriars Road
London SEl 8HA

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced,

stored in a retriewd system, or transmitted in any way or by any means,
electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without
the prior written permission of the copyright holder.

A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

Publisher: Joanna Lorenz

Project Editor: Glare Nicholson
Designer: Michael Morey
Illustrator: Adam Abel
Indexer: Alex Corrin

Previouslypublishedas TheNewGuidetoMushrooms
© Anness Publishing Limited 1995, 1996, 2000

1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2
Contents

IN T R O D U C T IO N 6
Foreword 8
What are mushrooms? 10
The different parts o f m ushroom s 12
Where to collect m ushroom s 14
When to collect m ushroom s 16
H ow to collect m ushroom s 18
Storing m ushroom s 20

E D IB L E M U S H R O O M S 22
P O IS O N O U S M U S H R O O M S 96

G LO SSA RY 122
IN D E X 124
B IB L IO G R A P H Y 127
ACKNOW LEDGEM ENTS 128
Foreword
I was introduced to w ild mushrooms by m y
grandfather w ho was a farmer in Norfolk,
England. From the age o f four I w ould go out in
the fields w ith him to collect not only what he
described as field mushrooms, but also some
weird and wonderful looking toadstools which I
thought were poisonous - they certainly looked
menacing to a child. H owever, he taught me one
very good lesson: so long as you can identify
absolutely accurately what you are picking you
will be safe. From these early beginnings
developed a lifetime’s interest in w ild mushrooms.
The excitement o f walking along a woodland
path in the autumn, and finding in front o f you
tw o or three perfectly formed ceps is wonderful.
During fifty years as a mushroom hunter, I have
graduated from the relatively com m on horse and
field mushrooms to the more exotic chanterelles
and ceps. 1 am still excited when 1 find the first
morels o f the spring, or the year’s first patch o f
chanterelles hidden in the leaf litter; o f course, the
more elusive the mushroom, like the horn o f
plenty or the winter chanterelle, the greater the
excitement. Imagine the ultimate triumph o f
finding your first truffle - o f beating the pigs and
squirrels to them! But, as well as providing
excitement and good eating, mushrooms can be
dangerous; correct identification is the key to
successful mushroom collecting.
The fruits, nuts and mushrooms o f autumn are
obvious and m ost are easy to spot. But have you
ever realized that the winter, spring and summer
can be as productive - at least as far as mushrooms
are concerned? M ushrooms are one o f the few
w ild treasures available nearly all the year round.
Even on a crisp winter’s day you can find a
bouquet o f silver-grey oyster mushrooms or the
wonderful velvet shank growing out o f a tree
stump and it is so much more satisfying to pick
them like this than from a supermarket shelf.
Because, o f course, the excitement o f finding the
mushrooms is closely follow ed by the satisfaction
o f cooking them within hours if not minutes o f
their harvest.
Identifying mushrooms, utterly essential
though it is, can be frustrating if you have to wade
through hundreds o f illustrations, many o f which
look the same. This book is designed to make that
task easier. It illustrates the best o f the edible
mushrooms, and so w ill help you pick your way
wisely through the year’s mushrooms, alerting
you not only to a season’s treasures, but also to the
poisonous lookalikes and really deadly fungi that
all too often grow alongside innocent and
delicious mushrooms. The section that deals with
the poisonous species w ill help identification and
give the faint-hearted confidence to take their
finds back to the kitchen. But do follow the advice
given in this guide carefully. If clear identification
is not possible from this book, consult others - the
bibliography lists som e o f the best. And
remember that the best advice o f all is: if in doubt
do not collect a mushroom and never, ever, eat
anything you cannot identify with certainty.
Peter Jordan
 I
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T
What are mushrooms?
R

0
D

U
The terms mushrooms, toadstools
C
and fungi (singular fungus) are often Ascomycetes
T
us?d loosely and interchangeably.
However, this can be misleading.
1
The fungi are a very large group
O
of organisms and include moulds,
N
yeasts, mushrooms and toadstools.
None o f these organisms contain the
green pigment chlorophyll, so they
cannot make their own food by the
process known as photosynthesis.
So, although you may encounter
some mushrooms with a distinctly
greenish tinge, none are green in the
way that a tree or a flowermg plant is. T h e cup fu n g i circle shows details o f the spore-bearing surface.
Mushrooms are usually defined as
the edible, spore-producing bodies of
some fungi. In contrast, the term Basidiomycetes
toadstool is commonly applied to the
spore-producing bodies of those fungi
that are not only inedible but may
also be highly dangerous. From this
you will realize that while the terms
fungus and fungi have a very precise
scientific meaning, mushroom and
toadstool do not. In this book mush­
room is used whether, or not, the
fruit body of that particular fungus is
edible. It is used to cover a large
number of different types of fungi
such as mushrooms, boletes, bracket
T h eg illed mushroom circle shows the enlargement o f the g ill edge.
fungi, puffballs and cap fungi.

The fungi in this book divide into

Tuber aestivum, the summer truffle, two main groups: the Ascomycetes
an exam ple o f an ascomycete fungus.
and the Basidiomycetes. The Asco­
mycetes produce spores that are spread
by the wind. Among this group are
many of the cup fungi, including the
common morel and G yrom itra escu-
lenta. Because the wind spreads the
spore of many of these mushrooms,
it is worth remembering when you
find some morels, for example, to
check downwind and you will almost
certainly find some more.

10
 The second group, and by far the I
largest as far as the collector is con­ Parts of the Agaric-type fungi N
cerned, is the Basidiomycetes, which T
includes the large and well-known fragments of R
Agaric and Boletus families. These two veil
0
families, in fact, form sub-divisions D
universal veil
within the group.
U
A mushroom o f the Agaric type is
c
illustrated here with the various parts
T
clearly identified. This is a gilled
1
mushroom and sometimes grows
о
from an egg-shaped volval bag. Care
must be taken when dealing with any N
mushroom that grows from a volval
bag, because this is how the A m a n i t a s , T h e u n iv e r s a l v e il en closes th e w h o l e m u s h r o o m a n d th e p a r t i a l v e il co ver s th e g i l l s . As
the most deadly o f all mushroom t h e m u s h r o o m g r o w s t h e u n i v e r s a l v e i l r u p t u r e s to l e a v e a v o l v a a n d f r a g m e n t s o n t h e

species, grow. c a p , a n d t h e p a r t i a l v e i l r u p t u r e s to l e a v e a r i n g o n t h e s t e m .

A second sub-division is the m ushroom s that have irregular

Parts of the Boletus-type fungi Boletes. Instead of having gills, mush­ shapes. A number o f fungi fall into
rooms in this group have tubes and this group, for example, the hedge­
pores which vary widely in colour. hog fungus, which, instead of gills,
Boletes, like Agarics, are fleshy and has tiny spines from which it gets its
decay readily. This separates them name. Another member o f the group
from the Polypores. It is important is the cauliflower fungus. It may look
to note their colour because this can odd, but it is a wonderful find from a
be a clear indicator o f the mushrooms culinary point of view. Other un­
you have found. The cep is the best- usual types are the beefsteak fungus
known member of this group. and the sulphur polypore or chicken
A third group of fungi illustrated of the woods. Both are excellent for
in this book is Aphyllophorales. This cooking as well as being quite spec­
group includes the polypores and tacular when you encounter them in
chanterelles and a number of other the wild.

E x a m p l e s o f th e t w o ty p e s o f f u n g i w h ic h C a u l i f l o w e r f u n g u s is a n e x a m p l e o f t h e

f o r m s u b - d iv is io n s o f th e B a s id io m y c e te s. th ird m a jo r g r o u p o f f u n g i , th e

T h e h o rse m u s h r o o m ( a b o v e ) a n d th e cep A p h y llo p h o r a te s.

(rig h t).

11
I
N
r The different parts of mushrooms
R
0
D
V
When collecting wild mushrooms it
c is important to consider carefully
what it is that you are collecting. The
T
mushroom itself can be divided into
1
various parts. From both the collect­
o
ing and culinary points of view the
N
cap or fruit body is the most impor­
tant part. The shape, size and colour
of the cap can show tremendous
variation within a species, which is
one o f the reasons why mushrooms
are so difficult to identify accurately.
It is also important to note whether
the cap has gills or pores, what the
colours of these are and whether they
are crowded or open.
Stems can also vary considerbly
and they, too, can often be an impor­
tant indicator of precisely which
mushroom you have discovered.
Does the stem have a veil or not? The
base of the stem is a vital means of
Examples of different shapes of stems
identification, particularly if you
have any doubts about the specimens
you have found. If you are not sure
what it is, carefully dig out the
mushroom so that you can see the
base o f the stem. If there is any sign
o f a volval bag have nothing more to
do with the mushroom. Incidentally,
whatever the mushroom that you are
digging up proves to be, do be care­
ful not to do too much damage to the
mycelial threads that connect it to the
rest o f the underground part of the
fungus.
The colour o f the mushroom’s
flesh is another important means of
identification. N ot only should you
look at the whole mushroom, you
should also cut it through in cross-
section. Some important details, such
as whether the stem is hollow, can of
course, only be seen in cross-section.
In some species the stems change
colour quite dramatically when they
are cut. Take note of any such
changes, because they can be a reli­
able identification feature in certain
types o f mushroom.
Spore prints are also a good means
of identifying mushrooms and are
very easy to do. Take a cap or fruit
body of a mature specimen of a
mushroom and place it on black or
white paper on top of a container, so
that air can circulate around it. Leave
in a warm place for up to three days
so the mushroom sheds all its spores
and you will have a very clear spore
print. If you do not know what
colour the spore will be, put down a
piece of black paper and overlay part
of it with white paper. Then place the
cap so that it is half on the black
paper and half on the white.
 I
N

R
0
D

LE FT T o t a k e a s p o r e p r i n t y o u w i l l n e e d a
U
m a tu re sp e cim en , w h ite , or black a n d w h ite
C
p a p e r a n d a c o n t a i n e r to p l a c e i t o n .
T

1
LE FT B E LO W L e a v e t h e m u s h r o o m in a
O
w a rm p lacef o r a f e w days.
N

LE FT B O T T O M D o u o t u s e j u s t b l a c k
p a p e r b ecau se it w i l l n o t s h o w u p i f th e
s p o r e p r i n t is a d a r k c o l o u r .

13
 /
N Where to collect mushrooms
T
R
0
D Always take care when you are out
mushroom collecting that you do not
U
trespass. Always get the permission
C
of the landowner before you go on to
T
any land that is not open to the
1 public. When you are mushroom
o collecting be careful o f the surround­
N ing countryside and its animals,
otherwise not only will you soon get
a bad reputation, but you will give
other collectors a similar reputation
whether they deserve it or not.
Most people limit their mushroom
hunting to meadows, but these have
suffered from being over enriched
with nitrates, which have denuded
many previously good mushroom­
hunting territories. If you want to
find meadowland mushrooms it is
best to examine those meadows and
marshes that have been treated with
natural organic fertilizers and not
nitrates. But why restrict yourself to
meadowland species when eighty per
cent of fungi grow in association
14
with trees? Woods, forests and copses
are the' places where you should really
be looking for mushrooms, but only,
of course, once you have established
you will not be trespassing.
Established woods and forests con­
taining a wide variety o f species
provide the very best places for
mushroom collecting and it is in such
areas that the vast majority of species
are to be found. Many of these fungi
have a symbiotic relationship with
trees and their roots, with some
fungi growing only with a particular
species o f tree, while other fungi can
be found in association with a number
of different trees. For example, many
boletes grow only with one type of
tree such as the species of S u i l l u s which
only grow with conifers, or the
species of L e c c i n u m which are very
specific; L e c c i n u m v e r s i p e l l e grows
with birch and L. a u r a n t i a c u m with
aspen. Chanterelles on the other hand
can effectively grow with birch.
pine, oaks or even beech trees.
Soil type is also important. Al­
though many trees grow on a variety
of soils, you will find that some fungi
will only grow with a particular tree
on a particular soil, rather than across
the whole range o f soils on which the
tree grows. For example the bay
boletus grows under beech trees or
under conifers on acid soils, and the
panther cap grows under beech trees
on chalk.
A B O V E T h e e a r l y m o r n i n g is p r i m e
m u sh ro o m h u n tin g tim e.

O P P O S IT E D o n o t r e s t r i c t y o u r m u s h r o o m
h u n t i n g to m e a d o w s a n d w o o d l a n d s :
m a rs h e s a n d h e a th la n d can be s u r p r is in g ly
p r o d u c t i v e to o .

LEFT M a n y m u s h r o o m s g r o w i n r i n g s ,
s o m e o f w h ic h reach s e v e r a l m e tre s w id e .
1
N When to collect mushrooms
T
R
0
D Most people associate mushrooms
U with the autumn, but, in fact, they
c
grow throughout the year.
The spring brings morels and the
T
St G eorge’s m ushroom C a l o c y b e
1
g a m b o s a . The fairy ring champignon,
o
M a r a s m i u s o r e a d e s , also appears quite
N early in the year. The first of the
summer mushrooms is usually the
field mushroom, A g a r i c u s c a m p e s t r i s .
Another mushroom to appear fairly
early in summer is the chicken o f the
woods, L a e t i p o r u s s u l p h u r e u s , indeed
it often catches collectors unawares
with its early appearance. When, or
indeed if, there is a spell o f hot
weather, there is usually little to be
found, but these conditions are,
nevertheless, im portant, because the coming of winter, but they can people give up and just look forward
they help the mushrooms’ under­ often bring exciting finds o f both the to the next mushroom season. But
ground mycelial threads to mature field blewit, L e p i s t a s a e v a , and the don’t be fooled: on mild winter days
before the autumn’s great burst of wood blewit, L e p i s t a n u d a . Both go out searching and you will be
growth. If the weather is mild, the these species will continue until the surprised at what you find. Oyster
autumn can extend into early winter. weather turns quite frosty. mushrooms, P l e u r o t u s o s t r e a t i i s , will
The first touches of frost may herald When winter takes hold, most continue to grow alm ost right
through the winter, together with
the Jew ’s ear, A u r i c u l a r i a a u r i c u l a -
j u d a e a , and the velvet shank, F l a m m u -

l i n a v e l u t i p e s . Finding these can make

a cold winter walk tremendously ex­

citing, and shows that even in the
depth of winter you can enjoy a dish
with ingredients freshly picked from
fields and woods.
The mushroom collector’s year
never ends and even when you’re not
actually hunting, always be on the
look-out for new spots. Use winter
walks to exam ine pastures and
woodlands that you have not been to
before, to see if they give any clues as
to what they are likely to produce
when spring comes again.
It may seem surprising, but time
of day is most important to the
mushroom collector. This is because
mushrooms grow almost exclusively

i6
 I
N
T
R
during the hours of darkness. As a 0
result, the best specimens are picked D
when they are fresh in the early U
morning before the rising tempera­ c
ture of the day has brought out the T
flies to lay their eggs, so giving rise 1
to maggot infestation, or the animals o
of the woods and fields have had N
their pickings o f the overnight
growth, which can be quite amazing
in its quantity.
It is also worth revisiting a place
you have picked after two or three
days, because the mushrooms will
usually have regrown. Ceps are
known to regrow to a weight of
¥4 kilo (1% lb) within two or three
days o f the first growth having been
picked —an enormous rate o f growth
by any standard.
It is useful to keep a diary of what
you find, when and where you found
it, and what the climatic conditions
were, as this will give you a key to
subsequent seasons and help you de­
velop a knowledge and understand­
ing o f your local area. Noting clima­
tic conditions is also interesting as
well as useful. Good fungal growth
needs periods o f damp, but also
periods of dry and cold, as the myce­
lial threads seem to benefit from a
degree o f stratification which, in
turn, gives rise to better fruiting, and
thus to better collecting.

O P P O S IT E A B O V E Chicken o f the woods

growsfrom late spring to early autumn.

Oyster mushrooms
O P P O S IT E B E L O W
continue to grow through the winter.

ABOVE The poisonous C litocyhe

rivulosa appears in summer and autumn.

LEFT Wood Blewits.

17
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N
H o w TO COLLECT MUSHROOMS
T
R
0
D Very little equipment is needed for to wear in the autumn, as the days A sharp knife and brush are also
U mushroom collecting. Tough out­ shorten and the sun is low. It is easier im portant, the knife to cut the
c
door clothes and a strong pair of to spot those interesting little humps mushroom’s stem through cleanly
boots are essential and you should and bumps that could well prove to and the brush to remove obvious dirt
T
make sure that your jacket or anorak be an exciting find if you are not and debris such as pine needles and
1
has a pocket large enough to carry a having to shade your eyes with your leaf litter. Cleaning your specimens
o
small field guide. It is not an exag­ hand all the time. as you pick them will mean there is
N geration; some mushrooms are just One or two baskets are, of course, less to do when you get home. Sever­
too dangerous to take home. You essential. They should be light, easy al polythene bags or disposable
may find a wide-brimmed hat useful to carry and not too open in weave. gloves are also essential items to take

i8
 I
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T
R
0
OPPOSITE D
Results
U
o f a success­
fu l morning’s c
mushroom T
collecting. 1
o
N

RIGHT A selection
o f hand-made
baskets.

w it h y o u . Y o u ca n p u t th e se o v e r th r o u g h its s te m ra th e r th an d ig it u p .

y o u r h a n d s w h e n h a n d lin g a n y sp e c i­ W h ile it is p o s s ib le to u se th e ste m s

m e n s a b o u t w h ic h y o u are d o u b tfu l. o f m u s h r o o m s su c h as ce p s an d c h a n ­
D o n ’ t fo r g e t to t h r o w th e m aw ay te re lle s, th e re is a d a n g e r o f d is tu rb ­
BELOW A good knife is an essential part o f
a fte r y o u h a v e u se d th e m . A p a c k e t any mushroom collector’s equipment. T w o in g th e m y c e lia l th re a d s i f th e en tire
o f tissu e s o r a c lo th w ill a lso b e u s e fu l o f the knives double up as a brush as well. m u sh roo m is rem o ved fro m th e
as y o u r h an d s can g e t q u ite d irty . g r o u n d . T h e o n ly p o s s ib le e x c e p tio n
You w ill a lso n e e d th e m to clean to th is ru le is i f y o u are c o n fr o n te d b y
y o u r k n ife , as y o u s h o u ld clean it w h a t y o u th in k m a y b e a p o is o n o u s
ea ch tim e y o u u se it. m u s h r o o m . T h e n d ig it u p w it h y o u r
T h e fin a l ite m o f e q u ip m e n t is a s tic k , b e in g c a re fu l n o t to d a m a g e it.
good s tr o n g s tic k o r th u m b -s tic k . I f th e re is a n y th in g th at lo o k s e v e n
Y o u can u se it to p a rt b ra c k e n an d r e m o t e ly lik e a v o l v a l b a g at th e b a se
undergrow th to see if any o f th e s te m , le a v e th e w h o le sp e c i­
m u s h r o o m s a re h id d e n th ere. It w ill m e n v e r y w e ll a lo n e .
b e h a n d y to tu rn o v e r a n y sp e c im e n s H a v in g cu t th ro u g h th e m u sh ­
y o u m a y n o t w is h to to u c h , as w e ll as r o o m ’ s s te m , w ip e o r b ru sh cle an th e
b e in g u s e fu l as a to o l to d ig out m u s h r o o m b e fo r e p u ttin g it in y o u r
s p e c im e n s so th at y o u can c h e c k i f b a sk e t. A s th e b a s k e t sta rts to fill u p ,
th e y h a v e v o lv a l b a g s o r n o t. a la y e r o f b ra c k e n fr o n d s w ill p re v e n t
W hen you fin d a s p e c im e n th at th e b o tto m m u sh ro o m s fr o m be­
y o u w a n t to c o lle c t, it is b e st to cu t c o m in g d a m a g e d .

19
I
N S t o r in g m u s h r o o m s
T
R
0
D T h e r e a re c e rta in tim e s o f th e y e a r la y in g th em o n m usHn tra y s in the sun tan t to re m e m b e r , h o w ever, that
w h e n m u s h r o o m s g r o w in g re a t p r o ­ ca n b e q u ite s u ffic ie n t. In c o o le r , less m u sh ro o m s su c h as m o re ls c o u ld
U
fu s io n . It is im p o r ta n t, th e re fo re , to s u n n y r e g io n s , m u s h r o o m s can b e w e ll h a v e c r e e p y - c r a w lie s h id in g in ­
c
fin d w a y s to p r e s e r v e th is a b u n d a n c e d rie d o n o p e n tr a y s in a w a r m s t o r e , sid e so p a r tia lly d r y th e m s o m e w h e r e
T
fo r th o s e tim e s w hen fe w m u sh ­ a ir in g cu p b o ard an d on w in d o w b e fo r e h a n g in g th e m in y o u r k itc h e n .
1
r o o m s g r o w . P r e s e r v in g fo o d is as le d g e s . It is im p o r ta n t to re m e m b e r T h is w i ll p r e v e n t a n y w ild life d r o p ­
o
o ld as tim e it s e lf an d lo n g b e fo r e th at th e m u s h r o o m s m u s t b e d rie d p in g in to your fo o d . W hen th e
N
r e fr ig e r a t o r s , s a ltin g a n d d r y in g w e r e t h o r o u g h ly , w h ic h m a y ta k e se v e ra l m u sh ro o m s a re d ry, c a r e fu lly la y
u se d as m e th o d s of p r e s e r v a tio n . d a y s an d w h ile d r y in g is in p r o g r e s s th e m o n a sh e et an d p ic k th e in d i­
T h e r e a re m a n y d iffe re n t w a y s to an in ten se m u s h r o o m y sm e ll w ill p er­ v id u a l s p e c im e n s o v e r b e fo r e p la c in g
s to re m u s h r o o m s a n d s o m e sp e c ie s v a d e w h e r e v e r y o u a re d r y in g th em . th e m in a irtig h t c o n ta in e rs f o r s to r ­
a re m o r e su ite d to a c e rta in t y p e o f In re ce n t y e a r s , fru it d r y e r s and a g e . D o n ’ t w a s t e a n y p o w d e r th at
p r e s e r v a tio n th an o th e rs . In fo r m a ­ d r y in g m a c h in e s h a v e b e c o m e a v a il- m a y re m a in o n th e sh e et, it can be

tio n as to th e m o s t s u ita b le m e th o d a b le . S o m e ca n ta k e u p to ten tra y s s to re d s e p a ra te ly an d u se d to f la v o u r

f o r e a ch sp e c ie s is g iv e n in th e re le ­ an d a re c a p a b le o f d r y in g a la rg e s o u p s a n d s te w s .
v a n t e n tr y . q u a n tity o f w i ld m u sh roo m s v ery D r ie d m u sh roo m s can be u sed
W h a te v e r m e th o d o f s to r a g e y o u e ffe c t iv e ly o v e r s e v e ra l h o u rs . T h e s tra ig h t in s o u p s a n d s t e w s , b u t fo r
a re g o in g to u se, it is im p o r ta n t to a d v a n ta g e o f th is is th at it p re v e n ts o th e r d ish e s it is b e st to re c o n s titu te
selec t th e v e r y b est o f th e m u s h ­ th e w h o le h ou se s m e llin g of th e m in lu k e w a r m w a t e r f o r a ro u n d
ro o m s y o u h a v e c o lle c te d . Do be m u s h r o o m s f o r d a y s a ft e r w a r d s , and t w e n t y m in u te s. D o n o t u se b o ilin g
c a re fu l to m a k e su re th at th e y are y o u can a lso b e to ta lly c o n fid e n t that w a t e r as th is w ill im p a ir th e fin al
c o m p le te ly fre e o f m a g g o t s a n d o th e r y o u r d rie d m u s h r o o m s a re c o m p le te ­ fla v o u r . T h e w a t e r in w h ic h th e y
insects b ecau se there is n o th in g w o rs e ly fre e o f m o is tu r e . W ith th is a c c e le r­ h a v e b e e n re c o n s titu te d can b e u sed
w hen re c o n s titu tin g d rie d m u sh ­ a ted fo r m o f d r y in g it is p o s s ib le to as s to c k o r to m a k e g r a v y , b u t, b e ­
ro o m s to fin d you h ave m a g g o ts d r y e v e n s h a g g y in k c a p s, so lo n g as fo r e y o u d o s o , p o u r it th r o u g h a
flo a t in g o n th e to p o f th e w a t e r in you u se ve ry young s p e c im e n s. s ie v e to r e m o v e a n y e x tra n e o u s m a t­
w h ic h th e y are b e in g re c o n s titu te d . O r d in a r y d r y in g m e th o d s a re m u ch ter o r g r it th at m ig h t h a v e b ee n c o n ­
A ls o m a k e su re th e re a re n o t w ig s , to o s l o w an d th e y w o u ld co lla p se ta in ed w it h in th e m u s h r o o m s .
le a v e s o r o th e r d e b ris a m o n g th e m . in to an in k y m e ss an d p r o b a b ly ru in A n a lte rn a tiv e to d r y in g , is fre e z ­
D r y i n g p re s e rv e s th e f la v o u r an d any o th e r m u sh roo m s you w ere in g . P e rh a p s s u r p r is in g ly , th is is n o t
c o lo u r q u ite w e ll, a lth o u g h u n fo r t u ­ d r y in g w ith th e m . a v e r y g o o d m e th o d o f p r e s e r v in g
n a te ly it o fte n d e s tr o y s th e sh a p e o f A n o t h e r e ffe c t iv e w a y o f d r y in g m u s h r o o m s . F o r b e st re su lts, m a k e
th e m u sh roo m . T h ere a re se v e ra l m u s h r o o m s is to th re a d th e m w ith a u p th e m u s h r o o m d ish e s a n d then
m e th o d s o f d r y in g . In w a r m e r c li­ n e e d le an d c o tto n an d h a n g th e m u p fre e z e th e fin ish e d d ish o r m a k e u p
m a te s, s lic in g th e m u s h r o o m s an d in s trin g s in th e k itc h e n . It is im p o r - m u s h r o o m b u tte r. T o d o th is, slice

20
 I
N
T
R
RIGHT M ush­
0
rooms that have D
been dried and U
preserved fo r c
later use.
T
1
o
N

O PPO SITE FAR

LEFT AND
M IDDLE It is
essential to brush
and w ipe clean
mushrooms before
they are dried or
stored.

O PPO SITE NEAR

RIGHT
A mushroom drier.

your m u sh ro o m s, add th e m to r o o m s in th is w a y y o u w i ll e v e n tu a l­ O n c e th e seals h a v e b e e n b ro k e n ,

m e lte d b u tte r a n d free ze th e re su lt. ly h a v e a lo t o f s e a so n e d ju ic e an d u se th e c o n te n ts f a ir ly q u ic k ly . A n d it
P rese rved lik e th is you h ave th e y o u w i ll n o t n ee d to u se salt in a n y is a g o o d id ea to k e e p th e c o n ta in e r in
m u s h r o o m s a n d th e b u tte r fo r u se d ish you m ake u s in g salte d th e fr id g e w h ile y o u a re d o in g so .
w it h sa u c e s, to f la v o u r v a r io u s d ish es m u sh ro o m s. Even w hen you h a v e fin is h e d th e
an d to a d d to y o u r m e a t o r fish d ish es M u sh ro o m s can be p ic k le d in m u sh ro o m s, th e o il o r v in e g a r in
as a t o p p in g . e ith e r o il o r g o o d v in e g a r . It is m o s t w h ic h th e y have b ee n s to re d w ill
S a ltin g is one of th e o ld e st im p o r ta n t w h e n u s in g th is m e th o d to m a k e a w o n d e r f u l d r e s s in g . I f y o u
m e th o d s o f p r e s e r v in g fo o d . It w o r k s clean th e m u s h r o o m s w e ll a n d th en p reserve m u sh ro o m s by p ic k lin g ,
e x t r e m e ly w e ll f o r m u s h r o o m s . T h e b la n c h th e m . If you are p ic k lin g you m u st rem em b er to ste riliz e
m o s t im p o r ta n t th in g to r e m e m b e r is th e m w it h v in e g a r , r e m e m b e r th at e v e r y t h in g y o u u se. Y o u c a n 'd o th is
to h a v e cle an , fre sh m u s h r o o m s . T h e th e b e tte r th e v in e g a r , th e b e tte r th e by im m e r s in g a ll y o u r u te n sils in
q u a n titie s re q u ire d are o n e p a rt salt to re su lts w ill b e, so it is n o t w o r t h b o ilin g w a t e r , o r b y u s in g a ste riliz ­
th re e p a rts m u s h r o o m s . It is im p o r ­ p u ttin g g o o d m u s h r o o m s in in fe r io r in g s o lu tio n . B o i lin g w a t e r is p r o b ­
ta n t to la y e r th e m u s h r o o m s an d salt v in e g a r . T h e s a m e a p p lie s i f y o u are a b ly b e st as th e re is a lw a y s a d a n g e r
a lte rn a te ly , an d m a k e su re th e fin al p ic k lin g m u s h r o o m s in o il. It is a lso a th at th e s te riliz in g s o lu tio n m ig h t
la y e r o f m u s h r o o m s is c o m p le te ly good id ea to p u t p e p p e rc o rn s an d a ffe c t th e ta ste o f th e m u s h r o o m s .
co vered w ith salt. U se co n ta in e rs h a l f a d o z e n c lo v e s o f g a r lic in to each R e m e m b e r , to o , to k e e p a w a tc h fu l
th at th e salt w ill not c o rr o d e . ja r , t o g e th e r w it h t w o o r th re e b a y e y e o n y o u r p ic k le d m u s h r o o m s f o r
A lt h o u g h a ste riliz e d ja r is b e st, y o u le a v e s . M a k e su re th e c o n ta in e rs y o u a n y s ig n o f m o u ld in e s s . I f th e re is,
c o u ld a lso u se p o ly th e n e ic e -c re a m u se h a v e a g o o d sea l, a n d w h e n th e y d isc a r d th e to p f e w m u s h r o o m s an d
c o n ta in e rs. W h e n p r e s e r v in g m u s h ­ a re fille d , sea l t ig h t ly . u se th e re st fa ir ly q u ic k ly .

21

I n t r o d u c t io n
T h is s e c tio n illu s tra te s an d d e sc rib e s w ith in the sam e sp ecies. M a n y species
th e b e st o f th e e d ib le m u s h r o o m s th at h a v e p o is o n o u s lo o k a lik e s , w h ic h a re
g r o w in o u r fie ld s an d w o o d s . T h e r e a lso m e n tio n e d h e re . T a k e p a rtic u la r
a re in fa c t o v e r a th o u s a n d e d ib le ca re w it h su c h m u s h r o o m s . It is a lso
sp e c ie s an d b u t o n ly a s m a ll p r o ­ essential that y o u n e v e r p ic k im m a tu re
p o r t io n o f th e se a re p riz e d f o r th eir s p e c im e n s, b e c a u s e o n ly w it h m a tu re
f la v o u r an d te x tu r e , an d a lth o u g h s p e c im e n s can you be su re o f an
p e rso n a l taste w ill v a r y m a n y co n sid er a c c u ra te id e n tific a tio n .
th e fin e s t to in c lu d e th e ce p Boletus M u sh ro o m s a re q u ite ric h and
edu lis, bay b o le t u s B oletu s badius, e v e n e d ib le o n e s ca n ca u se s to m a c h
m o r e ls M orchella d a ta a n d esculenta, u psets. S o m e p e o p le seem m o re p ro n e
c h a n te re lle C antherellus dbariu s an d to th ese th an o th e rs , so b e c a re fu l i f
c h ic k e n o f th e w o o d s L aetiporu s sul­ you a re s e r v in g a m u s h r o o m d ish
phu rou s. T o e n a b le id e n tific a tio n each to g u e sts .
e n tr y h as a d e s c rip tio n o f th e m u s h ­ A lt h o u g h s o m e m u s h r o o m s ca n b e
r o o m in q u e s tio n , in fo r m a t io n o n its e a ten r a w , o th e rs m u s t b e c o o k e d
h a b ita t an d se a s o n o f g r o w t h , as w e ll first. A m o n g th is g r o u p a re h o n e y
as h in ts o n s t o r a g e an d c o o k in g p re ­ fu n g u s A rm illaria m ellea, w o o d b le -
p a ra tio n f o r w h e n y o u re tu rn h o m e . w i t L ep ista nuda, fie ld b le w it L ep ista
As you le a rn a b o u t m u s h r o o m s saeva, an d th e m o r e ls M orchella d a ta
y o u w ill b e c o m e m o r e re sp e c tfu l o f and esculenta. T h ese a ll c o n ta in a lo c a l p a p e r.
th e ru le s o f id e n tific a tio n . N o m u s h ­ s m a ll a m o u n t o f p o is o n w h ic h is
r o o m lo o k s e x a c t ly lik e a n o th e r , an d r e m o v e d b y c o o k in g .
s o m e tim e s th e d iffe re n c e s a re g re a t O n e o f the best w a y s to learn ab o u t
PREVIOUS PAGE B eefsteak fungus,
F istu lin a h epática. Although these
mushrooms are usually foun d at the base o f
tree trunks they can grow high up on the
branches.
E
D
I
В
L
m u s h r o o m s is to g o o n a f o r a y led b y E
an e x p e r t. N o t o n ly w i ll y o u h a v e
th e c h a n c e to q u e s tio n th e e x p e rt M
a b o u t th e lo c a tio n , t y p e a n d size o f U
the v a rio u s m u sh ro o m s-th a t y o u find, S
b u t, at th e e n d o f th e fo r a y , y o u w ill H
h a v e a ch ance to e x a m in e w h a t e v e r y ­ R
b o d y else h as fo u n d an d h a v e th e m О
id e n tifie d b y th e e x p e rt. In th is w a y О
y o u w ill h a v e an o p p o r t u n it y to see М
fa r m o r e sp e c ie s th an y o u w o u ld i f s
y o u h a d j u s t g o n e o u t c o lle c tin g o n
your own.
F o r a y s a re ru n b y m a n y o r g a n iz ­
a tio n s, in c lu d in g m y c o lo g ic a l s o c i­
e tie s, lo c a l n a tu ra lists tru sts a n d lo c a l
e x p e r ts w h o o r g a n iz e th e m o n an a d -
h o c basis. D e ta ils o f fo ra y s can u su a lly
b e fo u n d in y o u r lo c a l lib r a r y an d
th e y m a y a lso b e a d v e rtis e d in th e
E n jo y y o u r m u s h r o o m c o lle c tin g ,
b u t d o n ’ t ta k e a n y r is k s w it h m u s h ­
r o o m s y o u c a n n o t id e n t ify .
LEFT Field blewit, L ep ista saeva.
O PPO SITE A m ethyst’s deceiver, Laccaria
a m cth y stea , is a tasty mushroom that has
a long season from late summer to early
winter.
25
 £ Agaricus arvensis
D
I H o r s e M u s h r o o m
B
L
E
T h is is o n e o f th e la r g e r v a rie tie s o f
M m u s h r o o m . It is q u ite m e a ty in t e x ­
U tu re an d h as a v e r y d is tin c tiv e a n iseed
S sm e ll. H o rse m u sh ro o m s a re b est
H p ic k e d w h e n th e y a re y o u n g b e c a u se
R n o t o n ly a re th e y s o o n a tta c k e d b y
O m a g g o ts, b u t also the flesh b ecom es dark

O b r o w n w it h a g e a n d w ill tu rn a n y

M c o o k e d d ish m u d d y b r o w n in c o lo u r .

mature gills
turn dark brown,
immature gills are pinkish

ring still attached

to cap margin

26
 E
D
I
B
L
E

M
V
s
H
R
o
o
M
s

T h e s e m u s h r o o m s ten d to c o m e HABITAT AND SEASON PREPARATION AND

u p in th e s a m e fie ld s y e a r a fte r y e a r, H o r s e m u s h r o o m s f a v o u r g ra s s la n d COOKING HINTS
so h a v in g o n c e fo u n d a g o o d g r o w t h a n d p a s tu re , p a r tic u la r ly , as th e n a m e T h e s e m u s h r o o m s m a k e w o n d e r fu l
k e e p w a t c h in g in fu tu re y e a rs . s u g g e s ts , th at w h e r e ca ttle o r h o rse s m e a ls , p r o v id e d , o f c o u rs e , th at th e y
The h o rse m u sh ro o m o fte n has have g razed . C h a lk m eadow s a re a re n o t in fe s te d w it h m a g g o t s . R e ­
y e llo w is h m a r k in g s on th e cap. o fte n g o o d p la c e s to lo o k . T h e se a so n m e m b e r , to o , i f y o u a re u s in g o ld e r
W h e n y o u fin d o n e lik e th is, c h e c k it is fr o m m id s u m m e r to q u ite late s p e c im e n s w h e n th e fle sh h as tu rn e d
p a r tic u la r ly c a r e fu lly to e n s u re th at it a u tu m n a n d th e y o fte n g r o w in q u ite d a rk b r o w n , th at th e y w i ll c h a n g e
is n o t, in fa c t, th e y e l l o w Stainer, la rg e rin g s. th e c o lo u r o f y o u r d ish .
A g aricu s xan thoderm u s, w h ic h w i ll
m a k e y o u v e r y ill i f y o u eat it. T h is STORAGE ABO VE T he yellow Stainer.
m u s h r o o m is d e a lt w ith in d e tail in T h e s e m u s h r o o m s d r y w e ll, b u t it is
th e s e c tio n o n p o is o n o u s m u s h r o o m s im p o r ta n t to c h e c k t h o r o u g h ly th at ABO VE LEFT T he horse mushroom prefers
open meadows and woodland edges.
so y o u can c o m p a r e th e t w o . U n lik e th e y a re m a g g o t fre e . S lic e a n d th en
th e yellow Stainer, the horse d r y e ith e r w it h o p e n d rie rs o r w it h an BELOW T he mature cap may turn brassy
m u sh ro o m does not c o lo u r w h en e le c tric d rie r. yellow with age or when wet.
p re s se d o r cu t; th e y e llo w c o lo u r in g
b f th e ca p is its n a tu ra l c o lo u r.

IDENTIFICATION
The ca p ca n be fro m 10 -2 5 ciri
( 4 - 9 % in) a c ro s s . It is d o m e d at first,
b u t e v e n t u a lly expands to a f u lly
c o n v e x sh a p e. It is w h it e b u t y e llo w s
w it h a g e . T h e s te m is 8—1 0 c m ( 3 - 4
in) a n d h as a la r g e d o u b le rin g . It
m a y b e c o m e h o llo w w ith a g e . T h e
g ills , w h ic h a re w h ite at firs t, tu rn a
d e lic a te p in k and e v e n t u a lly d a rk
b ro w n in m a tu r e sp e c im e n s. The
fle sh is th ic k a n d w h it e b u t d a rk e n s
w it h age and can b e c o m e a little
w o o l l y lo w e r d o w n th e ste m . It h as a
d istin c t s m e ll o f a n iseed . T h e sp o re
p rin t is d a rk b r o w n .

27
 £
A^iJaria4s augustus
D

I T h e P r in c e
B
L
E
T h e p rin c e is a g o o d m u s h r o o m to o f f- w h it e w it h s m a ll sca les and a s p e c im e n s b e fo r e s lic in g a n d d r y in g
M fin d , n o t o n ly d o e s it lo o k a ttra c tiv e , la r g e flo p p y r in g . T h e g ills are o f f- th e m in th e u su a l w a y . T h is is a g o o d
U it a lso h as a lo v e ly f la v o u r an d m a k e s w h it e at fir s t, tu rn in g d a rk b r o w n m u s h r o o m to s to re fo r w in t e r u se as
s e x c e lle n t e a tin g . T h e s e m u s h r o o m s w it h a g e . T h e fle sh is th ic k , w h ite it h as an in te n s ity o f f la v o u r w h ic h
H ten d to g r o w in d e c id u o u s a n d c o n ­ a n d s m e lls m u s h r o o m y . T h e s p o re w ill e n h a n c e a n y m u s h r o o m d ish .
R ife r o u s w o o d la n d , and in c lu m p s p rin t is b r o w n .
o ra th e r th an rin g s. PREPARATION AND
o HABITAT AND SEASON COOKING HINTS
M IDENTIFICATION T h e p rin c e g r o w s m a in ly in c o n ife r­ A n ic e m u s h r o o m th at n e e d s v e r y

s T h e cap is 1 0 - 2 5 cm ( 4 - 9 % in) across. o u s an d d e c id u o u s w o o d s , o fte n in little p re p a r a tio n . T h e ste m ten d s to

B u t t o n - s h a p e d at firs t, it o p e n s to a c lu m p s . T h e se a so n is late s u m m e r to be q u ite fib r o u s , so is b est d isc a rd e d .
c o n v e x fo r m an d is o fte n ir r e g u la r in late a u tu m n . T h e cap d o e s n o t n ee d p e e lin g , ju s t
sh a p e. It is lig h t b r o w n in c o lo u r an d w ip e lig h t ly w it h a d a m p c lo th b e ­
has c le a r ly m a rk e d rin g s o f b r o w n STORAGE fo re slic in g . The p rin c e m akes an
fib r o u s sca les jo in in g in th e ce n tre. As th e se m u sh roo m s g ro w fa ir ly e x t r e m e ly good a d d itio n to om e­
T h e ste m is 10 -2 0 cm (4 -7 % in). la r g e , m ake s u re you have good lette s, b u t is a lso n ic e o n its o w n .

cap s u rfa c e

a lw a y s w ith

J l a t t e n c d s c a le s

ABOVE T he prince is usually la r g e f l o p p y

fou n d at the edges o f woods, r in g

clearings orpathsides, rarely

very f a r from trees. t-
s te m u s u a lly

s tr o n g ly s c a ly

28
 £
D
Agaricus hisporus
I
В
L
H
A garicus bisporus s m e lls an d tastes HABITAT AND SEASON
v e r y s im ila r to th e field m u s h r o o m . It g r o w s o n c o m p o s t h e a p s, in g a r ­ M
It is b e lie v e d to b e th e sp e c ie s fr o m den w a s te an d b e sid e ro a d s , o c c a ­ U
w h ic h m o s t o f th e c u ltiv a te d v a rie tie s s io n a lly o n th e e d g e s o f h e d g e s and s
com e. It can g ro w in q u ite la rg e s m a ll p la n ta tio n s , b u t v e r y ra re ly in H
q u a n titie s an d is m o s t ly fo u n d o n g ra s s . T h e se a so n is q u ite e a r ly in th e R
w a s t e g r o u n d an d c o m p o s t h ea p s. It s p r in g th r o u g h to late a u tu m n . О
is q u ite c o m m o n . О
STORAGE м
IDENTIFICATION T h is m u sh roo m ten d s to b e q u ite
s
T h e cap is 5 - 1 0 c m ( 2 - 4 in) a c ro ss, s m a ll an d d rie s w e ll, e ith e r w h o le o r
b u t to n -s h a p e d b e fo r e o p e n in g a lm o s t cu t. It is fu ll o f fla v o u r .
fla t. It is w h it is h to m id - b r o w n in
c o lo u r w it h f la k y sca les. T h e ste m is PREPARATION AND
3 - 5 c m ( i'/ 4 - 2 in) an d w h ite , w ith a COOKING HINTS
distin ct rin g b e lo w the cap. It has p in k B e c a u s e th is m u s h r o o m o fte n g r o w s
ABO VE AND BELOW A g a ric u s b isp o ru s
g ills w h ic h b e c o m e d a rk e r w it h a ge. on co m p o st heaps or in ro u g h
is the species that cultivated varieties come
T h e fle sh is w h it e , b r u is in g s lig h t ly g r o u n d , it is b e st to w ip e th e cap v e r y
from . T he button, cup and fla t mushrooms,
reddish and it has a distinct m u sh ro o m y that are widely available, are the different t h o r o u g h ly , c u ttin g o f f th e b o tto m
s m e ll. T h e s p o r e p rin t is b r o w n . stages o f growth o f this mushroom. o f th e ste m an d s lic in g th ro u g h .

29
 E Agaricus campestris
D
I F ie l d M u s h r o o m
B
L
E
T h e fie ld m u s h r o o m is p r o b a b ly th e h a v e d isa p p e a re d . I f y o u a re lu c k y to e n s u re th at th e y h a v e n o t y e t b ee n
M b e st k n o w n o f all w i ld m u s h r o o m s . e n o u g h to h a v e s o m e o ld m e a d o w s a tta c k e d b y m a g g o t s .
U Y e a r s a g o fie ld s w e r e o fte n c a rp e te d a n d p a s tu r e n e a r y o u , k e e p an e y e
S w it h th ese s m a ll w h it e m u s h r o o m s , o p e n fo r a w o n d e r fu l fe a st th at can IDENTIFICATION
H b u t d u e to c h a n g e s in fa r m in g te c h ­ c o m e at a n y tim e f r o m q u ite e a rly in The ca p is 3—1 2 cm (1V4—qYr in)
R n o lo g y an d th e g re a te r u se o f h e rb i­ th e su m m er th ro u g h to a u tu m n . a c ro s s . It re ta in s its d o m e s h a p e fo r
O c id e s , p e s tic id e s and, p a r t ic u la r ly , T h ese m u s h r o o m s a re b e s t p ic k e d s o m e tim e b e fo r e o p e n in g o u t fu lly .

O n itra te s, m a n y o f th e w o n d e r fu l p a s ­ e a r ly in th e m o r n in g , n o t o n ly to b ea t It is silk y w h ite, a g ein g to lig h t b ro w n .

M tu re s w h e r e fie ld m u s h r o o m s g r e w o th e r m u s h r o o m c o lle c to rs , b u t a lso The s te m is 3—1 0 cm ( I'/ t—4 in ).

g ills are

p in k w hen

young

r i n g is f r a g i l e

a n d o fte n m is s in g

LEFT A n
exam ple o f a
typical cultivated
edible A g a ric u s
species.

30
RIGHT N ote that the gills are not attached E
to the stem, this is common to all A g a ric u s . D
I
BELOW T he gills are brown in mature
specimens. B
L
E
w h it e , ta p e rin g to th e b a se , a n d h as a
th in r in g w h ic h is o fte n to rn a w a y . M
E v e n in u n o p e n e d fie ld m u s h r o o m s U
th e g ills a re d e ep p in k , an e x c e lle n t S
id e n tific a tio n fe a tu re . T h e w h it e fle sh H
b ru is e s s lig h t ly p in k . It h as a p le a sa n t R
s m e ll. T h e s p o r e p rin t is b r o w n . O
O
HABITAT AND SEASON M
F ie ld m u sh ro o m s g ro w in m a tu re
s
p a s tu r e an d o fte n fa v o u r c h a lk y so ils.
T h e y can g r o w a n y tim e f r o m e a r ly
s u m m e r th r o u g h to late a u tu m n . PREPARATION AND - a n y m a g g o t s w ill th en b e e a s y to
COOKING HINTS see. The o ld e r s p e c im e n s are b e st
STORAGE T h e s e d o n o t n e e d p e e lin g , a w ip e u se d fo r k e tc h u p , sa u c e s a n d s te w s ,
A n e x c e lle n t m u s h r o o m f o r s to r in g w it h a d a m p c lo th is s u ffic ie n t, b u t as th e se g iv e a q u ite in te n se , d a rk
d r ie d as it re ta in s its f la v o u r e x t r e m e ­ d o c h e c k th e m c a r e fu lly to m a k e su re b ro w n c o lo u r to th e d ish . Young
l y w e ll. T h e s m a lle r sp e c im e n s can b e th e re is n o m a g g o t in fe s ta tio n . T h e s p e c im e n s ca n b e u se d as y o u lik e .
th re a d e d o n s t r in g an d d rie d w h o le , b est w a y to d o th is is to trim th e s te m T h e y are d e lic io u s fo r b r e a k fa s t w it h
b u t la r g e r o n e s s h o u ld b e slice d . c a r e fu lly a n d slic e th r o u g h th e c e n tre b a c o n an d e g g s .

31
E
D
I Agaricus macrosporus
R
L
E
T h is is q u ite a com m on a u tu m n
M m u s h r o o m . It g r o w s in rin g s an d is
V e x t r e m e ly g o o d to eat. S o m e ca re
S o v e r id e n tific a tio n is n e c e s s a r y , b e ­
H ca u se it ca n lo o k lik e th e p o is o n o u s

R y e llo w S tain er. H o w e v e r , th e sh a p e

O o f th e ca p a n d , in p a rtic u la r, th e sm e ll

O a re re lia b le aid s to e n s u r in g y o u h a v e
th e r ig h t m u s h r o o m .
M
s
IDENTIFICATION
The dom ed cap is 8 -io (3-4 in)
a cro ss. It is o ff-w h ite w it h lig h t
b r o w n sca le s. T h e s c a ly ste m is 5 - 1 0
c m ( 2 - 4 in) lo n g , o f f- w h it e an d q u ite
th ic k , w it h a s lig h t ly p o in te d b ase.
T h e gills are pale p in k at first, tu rn in g
d a rk e r b r o w n w ith a g e . T h e fle sh is
w h it e an d h as a fa ir ly d istin c t s m e ll
o f a lm o n d s. T h e sp o re p rin t is b r o w n .

HABITAT AND SEASON

G r o w s in rin g s in m a tu re p a stu re s
th at h a v e n o t b ee n tre ate d w it h ch e­
m ic a ls . T h e sea so n is f r o m late s u m ­
m e r to a u tu m n .

RIGHT Often
very large, the
white cap may
develop fin e scales
on the surface,
as here.

STORAGE
T h is m u s h r o o m is v e r y g o o d to eat.
It is b e st d rie d f o r s to r a g e , b u t sp e c i­
m e n s ca n b e q u ite la rg e so it is im ­
p o rta n t to slic e th e m first.

PREPARATION AND
COOKING HINTS
th ic k r in g w ith
C le a n th e ste m c a r e fu lly a n d b ru sh
s c a ly u n d e r ­
th e ca p : p e e lin g is u s u a lly u n n e c e s­
s id e
s a r y . C h e c k y o u r s p e c im e n s c a re fu l­
ly , e s p e c ia lly th e la r g e r o n e s , w h ic h
m a y h a v e b e c o m e m a g g o t in fe ste d .

32
 E
D
A g a ricu s silvaticus I
B
L
E
T h is is a m u s h r o o m o f m a in ly c o n ­ m a r k in g s ; it h as a b r o w n r in g . T h e STORAGE
ife r o u s w o o d la n d , w h ic h g r o w s in g ills a re p a le c re a m at firs t b u t tu rn T h is m u s h r o o m h as q u ite an in te n se M
th e s a m e p la c e s y e a r a fte r y e a r . It is q u ite re d w it h a g e . T h e fle sh is w h it e f la v o u r . It is b e st d rie d , b u t as it is V
a lso e x t r e m e ly g o o d to eat. an d sta in s b r ig h t re d w h e n c u t at th e o fte n la r g e , it s h o u ld b e s lic e d first. S
b a se o r le n g t h w a y s . It h as v e r y little H
IDENTIFICATION s m e ll. T h e s p o r e p rin t is b r o w n . PREPARATION AND R
T h e ca p is 5—1 0 c m ( 2 - 4 in) a c ro s s , COOKING HINTS O
convex and co vered w ith b ro w n HABITAT AND SEASON B e c a u s e th is m u s h r o o m g r o w s m a in ­ O
sca les w h ic h g iv e it an o v e r a ll b ro k e n The u su al h a b it a t is c o n ife r o u s l y in c o n ife r o u s w o o d s , th e to p w ill
M
p a tte rn . T h e s te m is 5 -8 c m ( 2 - 3 in ), w o o d s a n d th e s e a so n is f r o m e a r ly n e e d b r u s h in g a n d a n y p in e n ee d les
s
w h it is h , but stria te d w it h b ro w n s u m m e r to late a u tu m n . r e m o v in g . C u t o f f th e l o w e r p o r tio n
o f th e ste m a n d slice . It w i ll g iv e a
w o n d e r f u l f la v o u r to y o u r d ish e s. It
is a ls o g o o d o n its o w n , lig h t ly frie d
w ith a little b u tte r a n d b a s il, an d
s e r v e d o n to a st.

r in g w ith

s m a l l s c a le s ^

o n u n d e r s id e

33
 E
Agaricus silvícola
D
I W o o d M u s h r o o m
B
L
E
The w ood m u sh ro o m has m any
M
sim ila ritie s to th e la r g e r h o r s e m u s h ­
U r o o m b u t, as th e n a m e s u g g e s ts , it
s g r o w s a lm o s t e x c lu s iv e ly in w o o d ­
H lan d . Take care, h o w ever, n o t to
R c o n fu s e it w it h e ith e r th e y e llo w
O Stainer, Agaricus xanthodermus, o r so m e
o o f th e d e a d ly A m anitas. C h e c k id e n ­

M t if y in g fe a tu re s c a r e fu lly . It d o e s n o t

s g r o w o u t o f a v o lv a l b a g , so th ere
w ill b e n o s ig n o f o n e , a n d i f y o u tu rn
th e m u s h r o o m o v e r o r cu t it y o u w ill
q u ite c le a r ly see th e id e n tific a tio n fea ­
tu re s. I f in a n y d o u b t, le a v e it a lo n e .

IDENTIFICATION
T h e ca p is b e tw e e n 5—1 0 c m ( 2 - 4 in)
a c ro s s , d o m e d at firs t b e fo r e o p e n in g
o u t to b e a lm o s t fla t. It is a c r e a m y
y e llo w w h ic h d a rk e n s w it h a g e . T h e
s te m is 5—8 c m ( 2 - 3 in ), q u ite th in
an d w it h a c le a rly m a r k e d r in g . T h e
g ills a re m id - p in k b e fo r e tu r n in g
d a rk b r o w n . T h e fle sh is w h it e an d
h as a d is tin c t a n ise e d s m e ll. The
s p o re p rin t is d a rk b r o w n .

HABITAT AND SEASON

T h e w o o d m u s h r o o m is q u ite c o m ­
m on in c o n ife r o u s and d e c id u o u s
w o o d s . Its sea so n is th e a u tu m n .

STORAGE
T h e s e m u s h r o o m s d o n o t s to re w e ll,
so u se a n d e n jo y th e m as s o o n as
p o s s ib le a fte r y o u h a v e p ic k e d th e m .

PREPARATION AND
COOKING HINTS
T h e y o u n g s p e c im e n s a re p a r tic u la r ly ABO VE A lw ays a graceful slender
ta sty . T r y c o a tin g th e ca p s o f y o u n g mushroom, the w ood mushroom grows
m u s h r o o m s in s e a so n e d flo u r , d ip ­ exclusively inside woodlands.
p in g th e m in a b a tte r m a d e w it h b e e r
o r la g e r a n d th en d e ep f r y in g th e m :
d e lic io u s .

34
Aleuria aurantia E
D
O r a n g e P e e l F u n g u s I
B
L
E
T h is w o n d e r f u lly b r ig h t fu n g u s h as a
M
n ic e ta ste an d te x tu re . It is a u s e fu l
a d d itio n to all w ild m u s h ro o m dishes. u
s
IDENTIFICATION H
T h e ca p is s m a ll, ju s t u n d e r o. 5 - 5 c m R
('/4-2 in) a c ro s s ; it is c u p -s h a p e d an d O
b e c o m e s q u ite w a v y at th e e d g e s. O
T h e in n e r s u rfa c e is b r ig h t o r a n g e in M
c o lo u r . T h e u n d e rs id e is m u c h lig h t ­ s
e r a n d a lm o s t v e lv e t y to th e to u c h .

HABITAT AND SEASON

The o r a n g e p e e l fu n g u s g ro w s in
fa ir ly la r g e c lu m p s o n a lm o s t b a re
e a rth in lig h t g ra s s la n d , a lo n g ro a d s
a n d in la w n s . It is q u ite c o m m o n a n d
th e se a so n is f r o m a u tu m n th r o u g h to
e a r ly w in te r.

STORAGE
D r y i n g is th e b e st m e th o d o f sto ra g e .

PREPARATION AND
COOKING HINTS
A p a r t fr o m c le a n in g it c a r e fu lly , th e
o r a n g e p e el fu n g u s n eed s v e r y little
d o in g to it. It is fa ir ly to u g h , so can
b e lig h t ly rin se d in w a te r , th en slic e d
t h in ly and added to your w ild
m u s h r o o m d ish e s, to w h ic h it w ill
a d d b o th f la v o u r an d c o lo u r.

ABO VE RIGHT Often growing in large

clusters, the orange p eel fungus prefers
disturbed soils along paths and trackways.

RIGHT T he inner surface (the hyménium)

contains the spore-producing cells which are
called asci.

35
 E Armillaria mellea
D
I H o n e y F u n g u s o r B o o t -l a c e F u n g u s
B
L
E
T h e h o n e y fu n g u s {A rm illaria m ellea fu n g u s g r o w in g in y o u r g a rd e n take (% -7-y4 in) a c ro s s a n d is a lso v a ria b le
M an d c lo s e ly re la te d sp ec ies) is th e sp e c ia lis t a d v ic e fast. H o w e v e r , h o n ­ in sh a p e a n d c o lo u r. It starts b y b e in g
U d re a d e d e n e m y o f th e g a rd e n e r . T h is e y fu n g u s is e x t r e m e ly g o o d to eat c o n v e x , th en fla tte n s an d is c e n tra lly
S m u s h r o o m g r o w s f r o m b la c k c o rd s an d g r o w s in v e r y la r g e q u a n titie s d e p re sse d . T h e c o lo u r v a r ie s fr o m
H know n as r h iz o m o r p h s w h ic h can d u r in g th e a u tu m n . a lm o s t h o n e y to d a rk b r o w n . T h e
R tra v e l e n o r m o u s d ista n ce s. T h e y k ill ste m is 5 - 1 5 c m ( 2 - 6 in) an d can v a r y
O th e h o s t tre e an d in fe c t la r g e a reas o f ID E N T IF IC A T IO N q u ite c o n s id e r a b ly in w id t h , s o m e ­

O w o o d la n d s . It is, w it h o u t d o u b t, the T h e cap ca n ra n g e fr o m 2—20 cm tim e s b e in g q u ite tu b e ro u s an d at

m o s t d a n g e ro u s o f all th e tre e p a ra ­
M
sites, c a u s in g in te n s iv e ro t a n d a v e r y
s
u n t im e ly d eath . I f y o u fin d h o n e y

s te m bases fu s e d
to g e th e r

36
 E
D
/
В
L
E
o th e rs v e r y sle n d e r. T h e r in g is al­
w a y s c le a rly v is ib le . T h e g ills v a r y M
fr o m o f f- w h it e to d a rk b r o w n . T h e U
fle sh is w h ite w it h a s m e ll th at is S
q u ite s tr o n g a n d s w e e t. T h e sp o re H
p rin t is o ff- w h it e . It is n o w th o u g h t R
th at th ere a re f iv e o r s ix d iffe re n t О
fo r m s o f h o n e y fu n g u s in E u r o p e .
О
T h e y u s u a lly g r o w in la rg e c lu m p s ,
м
e ith e r on d ead tree tru n k s , tree
s
s tu m p s o r liv in g trees.

HABITAT AND SEASON

H o n e y fu n g u s is fa ir ly w id e s p r e a d in
d e c id u o u s an d c o n ife r o u s w o o d s , in -

ABO VE T he scales o f the cap рагу fe c tin g liv in g tre es as w e ll as d e ad

considerably, ranging from almost smooth
as seen here to quite coarse.
BELOW When old, the gills can be quite
brownish but the spores are p ale cream.
tru n k s an d s tu m p s . The sea so n is
f r o m e a r ly s u m m e r to e a r ly w in te r
an d th e y can a p p e a r s e v e r a l tim e s at
th e s a m e p la c e d u r in g a se a so n .
STORAGE
D r y i n g te n d s to to u g h e n th is m u s h ­
r o o m , so it is b e st to m a k e u p d ish e s
firs t an d th e n fre e z e th e m .

PREPARATION AND
COOKING HINTS
O n ly th e cap s are e d ib le - the sta lk s
a re v e r y to u g h . B o il th e cap s fo r t w o
or th ree m in u te s in lig h t ly salted
w a te r , w h ic h m u st th en b e d isc a rd e d
as th e m u s h r o o m m a y c o n ta in a m ild
to x in . T h e n c o o k as y o u w is h . A ft e r
th e in itia l c o o k in g th e cap s are p a rti­
c u la r ly g o o d sau te ed lig h t ly w ith o n ­
io n , g a rlic an d b a sil, th ic k e n e d w it h a
little c re a m an d s e rv e d w ith p asta.

37
£ Auricularia auricula-judae ( s y n . Hirneola auricula-judae)
D
I
J e w ’s E a r o r T r e e E a r
B
L
E
A c o m m o n fu n g u s w it h a v e r y lo n g tre es: it g e ts its n a m e fr o m Ju d a s PREPARATION AND
M g r o w in g se a so n . It h as s o m e lo o k a - Is c a rio t w h o w a s sa id to h a v e been COOKING HINTS
U lik e s, s o ta k e ca re w it h id e n tific a tio n . h a n g e d o n an e ld e r tre e. It h as an Wash thoroughly with several

S e x t r e m e ly lo n g g r o w in g se a so n and c h a n g e s o f w a te r . A s th e y h a v e q u ite

H IDENTIFICATION th e re fo re ca n b e c o lle c te d th r o u g h o u t a g e la tin o u s te x tu re it is im p o r ta n t to

R T h e fru it b o d y is 2 - 7 c m (% —2 % in) th e y e a r. c o o k th e m w e ll. A v e r y n ic e w a y to

O a c ro s s w it h a j e lly - l ik e te x tu r e a n d an s e r v e th e m is to m a k e a sa u c e w ith
e a r-s h a p e d a p p e a ra n c e . In d r y w e a t h ­ STORAGE o n io n s , g a r lic , b a sil a n d fin e ly slic e d
O
e r it b e c o m e s h a rd . It is t a n - b r o w n B e s t d rie d . In fa c t i f th e y a re p ic k e d J e w ’s e a rs, th ic k e n in g it w it h a little
M
w it h s m a ll g r e y is h h a irs o n th e in n e r d u r in g d r y w e a th e r w h e n th e y are c r e a m , a n d u s in g it to fill s m a ll v o l-
S
su rfa c e . h a rd , th e y can be s to re d stra ig h t a u -v e n t cases o r to sp re ad o n croû to n s.
a w a y . B e f o r e u s in g , re c o n s titu te b y
HABITAT AND SEASON p u ttin g in lu k e w a r m w a te r .
G r o w s o n a w id e v a r ie t y o f tre es an d
is p a r t ic u la r ly com m on on e ld e r

inner surface appears

smooth and rubbery

38
 LEFT I f in doubt o f E
your identification D
o f this species, try
I
stretching it
between your B
fingers, it should be L
elastic and rubbery E
rather than brittle.
M
u
s

BELOW T he H
colour can vary R
greatly. These O
specimens are very
young and fresh
O
and so are quite M
p ale: they may be s
quite purple-brown
with age.

39
 £
Boletus badius
D
I B a y B o l e t u s
B
L
E
B a y b o le tu s d o e s n o t b e c o m e in fested
M w it h m a g g o t s as m u c h as s o m e o f
U th e o th e r b o le tu s, b u t it is s till b est
S to p ic k o n ly clean sp e c im e n s. T h e ABO VE B ay boletus fou n d under conifers more maroon-bay in colour than those fou n d
H f la v o u r is e x c e lle n t. (left) are usually darker, smoother and in deciduous woods(right).

R
O IDENTIFICATION STORAGE p o re s h a v e b e e n r e m o v e d , b e c a u se

O T h e ca p is 4—18 c m (1V 2—7 in) a c ro ss, A v e r y v e r s a tile m u s h r o o m . S m a ll th ese w i ll b e q u ite w e t an d w ill n o t

it is u s u a lly p a le to m id - b r o w n , s p e c im e n s m a y b e s to re d in ja r s o f d r y s a tis fa c to r ily . T h e s e p o re s ca n b e
M
a lth o u g h lig h t e r s p e c im e n s m a y b e e x tr a v ir g in o il, o r in w in e o r c id e r u se d in a m u s h r o o m k e tc h u p o r sau ce
s
fo u n d . It h as a p o lis h e d a p p e a ra n c e , v in e g a r . L a r g e r sp e c im e n s, h o w e v e r , i f y o u a re m a k in g o n e at th e tim e .
an d feels ta c k y w h e n w e t . T h e ste m a re b e st s lic e d an d d r ie d a fte r th e
is 4 .5 —1 2 .5 c m (iT a—5 in) a n d s im ila r PREPARATION AND
in c o lo u r to th e cap . T h e p o re s are COOKING HINTS
lig h t y e llo w , b u t stain b lu e i f p re s se d B ay b o le tu s a re b e st p ic k e d w h en
blue-grey stains A.-v.
o r cu t, w h ic h is o n e o f th e p rin c ip a l when bruised , th e y a re d r y . W ip e th e ca p s o f a n y
id e n t if ic a t io n fe a t u r e s o f th e bay w e t s p e c im e n s a n d le t th e m d r y b e ­
b o le tu s . T h e w h it e fle sh h as a fa in t fo re d e a lin g w ith th em . T h in ly
m u sh roo m y sm e ll, a n d a ls o stain s slic e d , th e y are d e lic io u s ea ten r a w .
b lu e w h e n cu t, b u t th e stain s o o n H o w ever, fre s h o r d rie d , th e b a y
fa d e s. T h e s p o r e p rin t is lig h t b r o w n . b o le tu s is v e r y v e r s a tile a n d ca n b e
u se d in m a n y s o u p s , s te w s a n d w ild
HABITAT AND SEASON m u s h r o o m d ish es.
In all ty p e s o f m ix e d w o o d la n d . T h e
season is e a rly s u m m e r to late au tu m n .

flesh
may stain
pale blue
‘ \
\
\

»■ ■%
.

40
Boletus chrysenteron E
R e d -c r a c k e d B o l e t u s D
I
В
L

A lt h o u g h th e f la v o u r o f th is b o le tu s E

is n o t as g o o d as th at o f th e b a y
M
b o le tu s o r th e cep , y o u n g sp e c im e n s
V
are g o o d in m ix e d m u s h r o o m d ish es.
S
H
IDENTIFICATION
R
T h e ca p is 4—1 0 c m (1V 2 -4 in) a c ro s s ,
О
s n u f f b r o w n in c o lo u r , b u t c ra c k s in
th e s u rfa c e o f th e cap o fte n re v e a l a О

s lig h t ly re d d ish h u e b e lo w . H o w e v ­ М
er, th e red m a r k in g s o n th e ste m are S
th e re al g iv e a w a y o f this b o le tu s. T h e
s te m is 4—8 c m (1V 2 -3 in) w ith a
d istin c t re d d ish tin g e fo r m o s t o f its
le n g th . The p o re s are y e l l o w an d
m u c h m o r e o p e n th an th o se o f th e
b a y b o le tu s ; th e y stain a lig h t g re e n ­
ish c o lo u r . The fle sh is c re a m to TOP A s the cap ages, particularly in colder
y e llo w an d d o e s n o t b ru is e o n cu t­ weather, the entire surface may take on a
tin g . T h e s p o r e p rin t is lig h t b r o w n . reddish flu s h .

T h e o v e r a ll te x tu r e o f th is m u sh ­
r o o m is m u c h less d en se th an e ith e r
th e b a y b o le tu s o r th e cep .

HABITAT AND SEASON

F o u n d in a s s o c ia tio n w it h a ll b r o a d ­
le a v e d tre es. T h e se a so n is th r o u g h ­
o u t th e a u tu m n .

STORAGE
D r y th is m u s h r o o m b e fo re a d d in g it
to y o u r o th e r d r ie d m u s h r o o m s .

PREPARATION AND
COOKING HINTS
O n ly p ic k y o u n g s p e c im e n s, w ip e o r red flush in
b ru s h th e ca p to r e m o v e a n y lo o se cracks
p a rtic le s o f e a rth an d slice th in ly b e ­
fo re c o o k in g . H o w e v e r , b ecau se it can
b e a little m u s h y , it is b e st u se d in
s o u p s , s te w s a n d m ix e d d ish e s w it h
o th e r m u s h r o o m s and n o t o n its o w n .

41
 E Boletus edulis
D
1 C ep o r P e n n y B u n
B
L
E
M u sh ro o m hunters regard this m u sh ­
M
ro o m as a g reat p n ze; it has a w o n d e r­
U fu l n u t t y fla v o u r an d is e x t r e m e ly
S v e rsa tile . It can a lso g r o w v e r y b ig
H an d w e ig h as m u ch as i k g (2 lb 2 oz).
R It g r o w s o v e r a n u m b e r o f d a y s and
O flies en te r at the b ase o f the ste m and
O th e m a g g o t s w o r k th eir w a y u p to

M th e cap an d tu b es so it is im p o r ta n t to
p ic k o n l y th o se in p rim e c o n d itio n .
S
W h en c o lle c tin g la rg e sp e c im e n s cu t
th e cap in h a lf to m a k e su re th ere is
n o m a g g o t in fe sta tio n b e fo re p u ttin g
it in y o u r b a sk e t.
w h ite u n c h a n g in g

fle s h

IDENTIFICATION
T h e ca p ra n g e s fr o m 6 - 3 0 c m {2V 2-
i i V i in) a c ro ss. Its lig h t b r o w n c o l­
o u r lo o k s ra th e r lik e fr e s h ly b a k e d
b re a d , h e n c e th e n a m e ‘ P e n n y B u n ’ .
T h e c o lo u r d a rk e n s as th e cap o p e n s ,
an d it is at th is sta g e th at y o u s h o u ld
e x a m in e s p e c im e n s f o r m a g g o t in ­
fe s ta tio n . In w e t w e a th e r th e ca p can
h a v e a s lig h t ly s t ic k y a p p e a ra n c e , b u t
in d r y w e a th e r it h as a n ic e v e lv e t y
sh e en . T h e s te m v a rie s fr o m 3—23 c m
( 1V 4 - 9 in ). It is v e r y b u lb o u s a n d h as
a fin e n e t w o r k , w it h m a r k in g s th at

cap . The p o re s a re w h it e at firs t,

tu r n in g lig h t y e l l o w w ith a g e . T h e
fle sh is q u ite w h it e an d does not
c h a n g e as th e m u s h r o o m a g e s . T h e
s p o re p rin t is lig h t b r o w n .

HABITAT AND SEASON

LEFT C eps are a C o n ife r o u s , b r o a d - le a v e d an d m ix e d
great culinary w o o d la n d ; a lso b e sid e g ra s s p a th ­
delicacy and they
w a y s . It can a lso b e fo u n d in a ss o c ia ­
are considered at
tio n w it h h e a th e r, a lo n g w it h d w a r f
their best f o r eating
when they are small w i ll o w s . T h e se a so n is s u m m e r to
and tight. late a u tu m n an d it is q u ite c o m m o n .

42
RIGHT A very variable species, some have E
swollen stems with much darker caps, D
particularly when fou n d under conifers.
i
B
L
E

M
U
S
H
R
O
O
M
s

STORAGE
C u t in to th in slice s th is is p r o b a b ly
th e m o st im p o r t a n t c o m m e r c ia lly
d rie d m u s h r o o m in th e w o r ld . T a k e
y o u r cu e f r o m th is - d r y in g is th e
b e st m e th o d o f h o m e s to r a g e . S m a ll
s p e c im e n s ca n b e k e p t in e x tr a v ir g in
o liv e o il, b u t it is r e a lly b e st to le a v e
th e m so th at th e y ca n g r o w o n to
m o r e m a tu re , a n d la r g e r , s p e c im e n s.

PREPARATION AND
COOKING HINTS
C le a n th e c a p s w e ll a n d cu t in h a lf to
ch eck fo r m a g g o ts b e fo r e p u ttin g
th e m in th e b a sk e t. B r u s h th e ste m ,
c u ttin g o f f th e b o t t o m o r s c r a p in g it
to r e m o v e a n y ea rth o r fib r e s at th e
b a se . T h is is o n e o f th e m o s t v e rs a tile
m u s h r o o m s a n d it ca n b e u se d in
m a n y c o o k e d d ish es.

43
 H Calocyhe gambosa
D

I
St G e o r g e ’S M u s h r o o m
B

H
A s its n a m e s u g g e s ts , St G e o r g e ’s IDENTIFICATION HABITAT AND SEASON
M m u s h r o o m ten d s to a p p e a r a ro u n d 2 3 T h e cap is 5 - 1 5 cm ( 2 - 6 in) a c ro ss Tends to g r o w in rin g s in g r a s s y
U A p r il, S t G e o r g e ’ s D a y . It h as a g re a t w it h a s lig h t ly in ro lle d m a r g in . W ell lo c a tio n s an d a ro u n d w ood edges
S v a r ie t y o f u ses an d is p a r tic u la r ly ro u n d e d w hen young, la r g e o ld w it h u n d e r ly in g c h a lk . T h e se a s o n is
H w e lc o m e b e c a u se it a p p e a rs e a r ly in sp ec im e n s d e v e lo p an irre g u la r, w a v y fr o m th e b e g in n in g o f A p r il an d in to
R th e y e a r , at m u c h th e s a m e tim e as cap . It is w h it e to c re a m in c o lo u r. M a y . F o r g o o d g r o w t h S t. G e o r g e ’ s

O th e com m on m o r e l. It fr e q u e n tly T h e ste m is 2 - 4 c m {Va—i Vi in) an d m u sh roo m re lie s on w a rm th an d

g r o w s in rin g s w h ic h can b e v e r y w h it e . The g ills a re n arro w an d m o istu re so i f the sp rin g is c o ld it w ill
o
la r g e , a lt h o u g h b ro k en in p la c e s. c r o w d e d . T h e fle sh is w h it e an d s o ft. n o t a p p e a r u n til th e w e a th e r b e c o m e s
M
The la r g e s t rin g s m ay be se v e ra l It h as a m e a ly s m e ll w h ic h is p lea san t w a r m e r . K e e p c h e c k in g a reas w h e r e
5
h u n d re d y e a rs o ld . an d s tr o n g . T h e s p o r e p rin t is w h ite . y o u h a v e seen it b e fo r e .

flesh very thick,

firm and white

gills very crowded

and shallow

s te m to u g h a n d fi b r o u s

44
RIGHT T he caps va ryjro in w hite to a f
creamy yellow colour. D

BOTTOM III these mature specimens note I

how the caps are irre^qular and w a v y . B
L

B
STORAGE
St G e o r g e ’s m u sh roo m d r ie s ex­ M
t r e m e ly w e ll. It ca n also b e s to re d in u

v ir g in o liv e o il o r in v in e g a r. s
H
PREPARATION AND R

COOKING HINTS O
B r u s h th e ca p s w e ll b e c a u se th e y can O
b e q u ite g r it t y an d d irty an d th ere M
m a y b e c h a lk p a rtic le s o n th e u n d e r­
S
n ea th . W h e n p ic k in g th is m u s h r o o m
a lw a y s cu t th e ste m to a v o id d a m a g ­
in g th e m y c e lia l r in g s . It g o e s p a rti­
c u la r ly w e ll w it h c h ic k e n an d fish .
T r y S t. G e o r g e ’s ch ic k e n , an o r d i­
n ary c h ic k e n c a s s e ro le g iv e n e x tra
z est b y th e a d d itio n o f s o m e o f th ese
ta s ty m u s h r o o m s .

45
 E Cantharellus cibarius
D

I
C h a n t e r e l l e
B

E
T h e e x c ite m e n t o f fin d in g th is m u s h ­ is, h o w e v e r , im p o r ta n t to e n su re y o u la te r b e c o m e s q u ite flu te d w it h a
M
r o o m is, f o r m a n y , th e h ig h lig h t o f h a v e fo u n d th e tru e c h a n te re lle an d c e n tra l d e p re ss io n . T h e c o lo u r can
u th e m u s h r o o m se a so n - n o t o n ly not s im p ly th e fa ls e c h a n t e r e lle , ra n g e f r o m v e r y p a le to d e ep y e llo w ,
s d o e s it lo o k b e a u tifu l, it tastes w o n ­ H ygrophoropsis aurantiaca. fa d in g a little w it h a g e . O c c a s io n a lly
H d e rfu l. M o s t c o lle c to rs are s e c re tiv e s p e c im e n s a re a lm o s t o ra n g e . The
R ab o u t th eir ch anterelle patch es becau se IDENTIFICATION ste m is 3—8 c m ( I 'A —3 in ), v e r y so lid
O th ese m u s h r o o m s g ro w year a fte r T h e cap is 2 - 1 2 c m (^/4-4% in) across. an d ta p e re d t o w a r d s th e b a se . T h e
O y e a r, o fte n in a b u n d a n t q u a n titie s. It F la t at firs t w it h a b r o k e n m a r g in , it y e llo w g ills a re b lu n t , n a rro w .

cap d e p re sse d

w h e n o ld e r

th ic k p a le - y e llo w
fle s h

blunt forking
'gills’ or ridges

46
 E
D
I
LEFT T he ‘g ills’ B
run down the stem L
and are the same
E
colour as the cap.

M
u
s
H
R
O
O
M
s

ir r e g u la r a n d ru n d o w n th e ste m . f o r s o m e tim e e ith e r in a r e fr ig e r a to r fu l c o lo u r to sau c es a n d th e o v e r a ll

T h e y e llo w is h fle sh has a l o v e l y fa in t o r in a c o o l, a ir y p la c e . T h e y taste a p p e a ra n c e o f a d ish . T r y m ix in g all
fr a g r a n c e o f a p ric o ts - a n o th e r im ­ e x q u is ite a n d a re w o n d e r f u lly v e r s a ­ d iffe re n t ty p e s o f C antharellus: th is
p o r ta n t id e n tific a tio n fe a tu re . The tile, w h e t h e r o n th e ir o w n , in m ix e d w i ll c o m b in e th e d iffe re n t fla v o u r s
s p o r e p rin t is p a le c re a m c o lo u r . m u sh ro o m d ish e s o r w it h m e a t o r a n d te x tu re s a n d m a k e a w o n d e r f u lly
fish d ish e s. T h e y a ls o g iv e a w o n d e r ­ c o lo u r fu l d ish o f w i ld m u s h r o o m s .
HABITAT AND SEASON
In all k in d s o f w o o d la n d w h ic h h a v e
o p e n m o s s y c le a rin g s . T h e se a so n is
e a r ly s u m m e r to late a u tu m n .

STORAGE
A ll fo r m s o f s to r a g e can b e r e c o m ­
m e n d e d fo r th e ch a n te re lle . It is a
p a r t ic u la r ly in te re s tin g o n e to sto re in
s p ic e d a lc o h o l b e c a u se o f its v e r y
fr a g r a n t f la v o u r , b u t it is e q u a lly
g o o d s to re d in e x tr a v ir g in o liv e o il
o r v in e g a r , o r e lse d ried .

PREPARATION AND
COOKING HINTS
It is im p o r ta n t to clean c h a n te re lle s LE FT Observe how
w e ll w h e n y o u p ic k th e m . B r u s h th e the ‘g ills’ o f this
ca p s, an d w ip e th e m w it h a d a m p species are very
shallow , blunt and
c lo th i f n e c e s s a r y . C u t th e s te m to
frequently fo rked ,
a v o id any e a rth g e ttin g in to your
more like deep
b a s k e t. T h e ch a n te re lle h as a g o o d wrinkles or veins
shelf-H fe: sp ec im e n s can b e k e p t fresh than true gills.

47
 E Cantharellus infundibuliformis
D
I W in t e r C h a n t e r e l l e
B
L
E
T h e w in t e r ch a n te re lle is so ca lle d th e m g r o w in g w h e r e b e fo r e y o u h ad convex at first, so o n b e c o m in g
M b e c a u se it u s u a lly a p p e a rs m u c h la te r fu n n e l-sh a p e d w it h a flu te d e d g e . It is
h a r d ly seen a n y th in g . T h e y ten d to
U th an th e o r d in a r y c h a n te re lle . It is g r o w in th e s a m e p la c e e a ch y e a r , so d a rk b r o w n o n to p , v e r y m u c h the
s q u ite an a c h ie v e m e n t to fin d th ese n o te w h e r e y o u fin d th e m . s a m e c o lo u r as th e l e a f litte r u n d e r
H tin y little g e m s h id d e n u n d e r fa llin g w h ic h it g r o w s . T h e s te m is 5 - 8 c m
R a u tu m n le a v e s . But once you get ID E N T IF IC A T IO N (2 -3 in ), y e llo w a n d h o llo w . The
O y o u r e y e in y o u w i ll fin d tr o o p s o f T h e cap is 2 - 5 c m (T a -a in) a c ro ss, g ills are n a r r o w a n d q u ite ir r e g u la r .

O
M
s

greyish-lilac
forked gills or
wrinkles

48
 E
D
I
B
L
E
y e llo w is h at firs t th e y a re g re y ish ,
lila c in o ld e r s p e c im e n s. T h e fle sh is M
y e llo w is h a n d s m e lls fa in tly s w e e t. U
T h e s p o re p rin t is y e llo w . S
H
H A B IT A T A N D S E A S O N R
G r o w s in la r g e n u m b e r s in b o th d e­ O
c id u o u s a n d c o n ife r o u s w o o d s , p r e ­ O
fe r r in g a c id s o il. T h e se a s o n is f r o m
M
late s u m m e r to la te a u tu m n .
s

STO RA G E
W in te r c h a n te re lle s d ry e x t r e m e ly
brown cap surface
w e ll, b u t ca n a ls o b e s to re d in e x tr a
v ir g in o liv e o il o r w in e v in e g a r .

P R E P A R A T IO N A N D
C O O K IN G H IN T S
A s th e se u s u a lly g r o w th r o u g h l e a f
litte r th e y a re q u ite c le a n , so a ll th e y
a re lik e ly to n e e d is a d u s tin g w it h
y o u r b ru sh . A n d i f y o u cu t th e sta lk s
ra th e r th an p u llin g th e m u p , y o u w i ll
a v o id ea rth a n d o th e r d e b ris . T h e y
a re v e r y v e r s a tile in c o o k in g , w it h an
e x t r e m e ly n ic e , s w e e t f la v o u r th at
g o e s e s p e c ia lly w e ll w it h fis h .

4 ■

ABO VE A good tip forfin d in g these mushrooms is tofo llo w ABO VE When growing in fa llen leaves winter chanterelles are very
woodland streams and search on the mossy banks as this is one o f difficult to spot.
their favou rite habitats.

49
 E Clitocybe odora
D
I A n is e e d T o a d s t o o l
B
L
E
T h e a n ise e d to a d s to o l is m o s t u s e fu l k n o b at ce n tre w h e n o p e n , an d is ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
M as a c o n d im e n t. T a k e ca re w h e n y o u a lw a y s s t ic k y an d d a rk is h -g re e n in T h e cap is 3 - 7 c m {iV 4- 2 V4 in) a c ro s s ;
U id e n t if y it , b ecau se th e v e r d ig r is c o lo u r. A s th e n a m e s u g g e s ts , the b u tto n -s h a p e d at firs t, it s o o n fla tten s
S a g a r ic , S tropharia aeruginosa, lo o k s a n iseed to a d s to o l has a v e r y p u n g e n t an d s o m e tim e s b e c o m e s w a v y . T h e
H ra th e r s im ila r , a lth o u g h it h as a b lu n t a n iseed sm e ll. c o lo u r is a b lu e -g r e e n w h ic h d a rk e n s
R
c a p s u r f a c e is
O
d r y , n o t s tic k y
O
M
S

50
R I G H T A N D BE L O W T h i s l o o k a l i k e , E
Stropharia aeruginosa, h a s a s t i c k y ca p
D
a n d a r in g o n t h e s t e m . I t h a s n o o d o u r .
T h e g i l l s tu r n p u r p l e - b r o w n w h e n m a tu r e . t

BOTTOM T h e B

c o lo u r m a y f a d e
L
r a p id ly f r o m th a t
E
s h o w n to a l m o s t
w h ite . T h e se
s p e c im e n s a r e b e s t
M
a v o i d e d in c a s e o f U

c o n f u s io n w i t h th e S

Clitocybe
su sp ect
H
fragrans, w h ic h is
w h i t e a n d a ls o
R
s m e l l s o f a n is e e d . O
O
with age. The stem is 3—6 cm (ii/4— The season is from late sum m er to M
2'/2 in) and lightly striated. The gills, late autumn and they are relatively
s
which are not very marked, are close com m on.
and run dow n the stem. The flesh is
pale and the smell is strongly o f STORAGE
aniseed. The spore print is white. Best dried and stored separately be­
cause o f the intensity o f its flavour.
H A BITA T A N D SEASON
In leaf litter along the edges o f con­ PREPARATION AND
iferous and deciduous w oods. In the COOKING HINTS
latter they are likely to be in associa­ Best used as a flavouring: finely chop
tion with beech or sweet chestnut. fresh specimens or powder dried ones.

51
 £ C oprinus comatus
D

; Sh a g g y In k C ap o r L a w y e r ’s W ig
B

O ne o f the m ost com m on m ush­
M room s, they often com e up in dense
u clusters on newly turned earth in
s m eadow s and gardens throughout
H the sum m er. Only the young speci­
R mens are edible and once picked they
O m ust be used quickly, otherwise they
O soon decay into a nasty inky mass.
This is an easy m ushroom to identify
M
as it is very distinct, although care
s
must be taken that the early stages o f
this and the m agpie fungus, C o p r i n u s
p i c a c e u s , are not mistaken. H ow ever,
the m agpie fungus has something
like a veil which the shaggy ink cap
does not.
IDENTIFICATION
The cap is 5-12 cm (2-4T4 in) across;
egg-shaped at first, it opens to a bell.
White with a cream-coloured centre;
it has large shaggy scales. The stem is
10—37 cm (4-i4'/2 in) and white. The
gills are white to start with, slow ly
changing to black from the edge in­
wards before becom ing a m ass o f
ink which, incidentally, m akes good
draw ing ink. The flesh is white with
a slight sweet smell. The spore print
is brown-black.

cap scales
curled back

’A
cap margin
liquifies to
release spores

I
ring which
remains on the
stem

52
 E

I
B E L O W T h e v e r y d i s t i n c t n a r r o w r in p is B
n o t e a s ily se e n h e re , b u t a s th e cap e x p a n d s
L
i t w i l l b e l e f t b e h i n d o n th e s te m .
E

HABITAT A N D SEASON
W idespread on grassy banks beside M
roads, on rubbish heaps, lawns and u
recently disturbed soil near building s
sites. The season is m idsum m er to H

late autumn. They are very com m on. R

o
STORAGE o
Best used fresh or dried in an electric M

drier. D o not attempt to air-dry them s

as they will turn into an inky mass.

PREPARATION A N D
COOKING HINTS
Although sh aggy ink caps can be
used dried; they are really best fresh,
either on their own, or with the
parasol m ushroom , L e p i o t a p r o c e r a ,
to make a wonderful soup. U se the
two m ushroom s, som e onions and a
little potato to thicken, sw eated
together and then liquidized. Sim ple
and quite delicious.

A B O V E T h i s is t h e b e s t s t a g e to c o lle c t
LEFT M a g p ie
s h a g g y i n k c a p s f o r c o o k in g .
Coprinus
fu n g u s,
picaceus c a n b e
c o n f u s e d w i t h th e
s h a g g y i n k c a p in its
e a r l y s ta g e s .

53
 E C raterellus cornucopioides
D

I
H o r n o f P le n t y o r T r o m p e tte des M orts
B

Another wonderful m ushroom o f the IDENTIFICATION HABITAT A N D SEASON

C a n t h a r e l l u s family. Like the chan­
M
U terelle and winter chanterelle, the horn
S o f plenty appears in large groups in
H the sam e place year after year. These,
R however, are quite often covered by
O leaf litter and are difficult to spot
O because o f their colour. Although the
M initial appearance is not inviting, the
S
taste is excellent.
T he cap is 2—9 cm (%—3V2 in) across;
it is shaped like a tube or a trumpet
and has an open flared m outh and is
hollow. It becom es irregular with
age and is thin and tough. In colour it
ranges from m id-brow n to black,
though it fades with age. T he gills are
barely perceptible. The flesh is grey
to black. T he spore print is white.
G row s in large clusters am ong the
leaf litter o f deciduous w oods. The
season is from late sum m er to quite
late autumn.
STORAGE
All form s o f storage are appropriate
for the horn o f plenty, but it is
probably best dried.

tr u m p e t-lik e

d e p r e s s io n

54
 E
D

B
L
E

PREPARATION AND
M
COOKING HINTS
Rem em ber that these m ushroom s are U

hollow. You will always need to S

brush them and, with larger speci­ H

mens, it is best to slice them in half R

and rem ove any debris that has gone O

down the funnel-cap. The horn o f O
plenty is very versatile in cooking, M

but goes particularly well with fish, s

its dark colour m aking a striking
contrast with white fish.

BE LOW L i k e th e w in t e r c h a n t e r e lle , th is
s p e c i e s is f o u n d in d a m p m o s s y b a n k s

a l o n g s i d e s t r e a m s a n d in d e e p l e a f li t t e r .

55
 E Fistulina hepática
D

I
B eefsteak Fu n g u s
B
L

An im portant bracket fungus from a fungus really does look rather like a HABITAT A N D SEASON
M
collector’s point o f view , not only is piece o f meat. The colour o f the G row s on chestnut or oak trees,
U it interesting in colour and texture, it bracket is an orange-red darkening usually, but not alw ays, on the lower
S has a good flavour. Because the beef­ with age, the pores are much lighter. part o f the trunk. Season is late sum ­
H steak fungus often grow s fairly high T he flesh is thick, succulent and mer to autumn, although it may
R up trees, you m ay well need to add a m ottled dark red; it has quite a appear earlier. Although this fungus
O ladder to your collecting equipment. p leasan t sm ell. T h e sp o re print causes rot inside a tree it does not kill
O is brown. it, but it makes the w ood o f infected
M
IDENTIFICATION trees much darker. O ak darkened in
The bracket can vary from 8—30 cm this w ay is in demand in the furniture
s
(3—iiy 4 in) across and is quite thick.
It is usually in a single piece, although
several m ay grow one above the
other. C u t through, the beefsteak

cu t jle s h

‘b l e e d s ’ r e d j u i c e

56
 LE FT B e e f s t e a k f u n g i o f t e n g r o w v e r y h i g h E
u p in tr e e s . A n o t h e r g o o d c l u e to i d e n t i f y i n g D

t h i s s p e c i e s is t h a t t h e i n d i v i d u a l t u b e s
1
se p a r a te f r o m ea ch o th e r v e r y e a s ily , u n lik e
B
a l l o th e r b r a c k e tf u n g i .
L

O
O
M

B E LO W T h e u p p e r su r fa c e can b e v ery
m o is t a n d s p o n g y w h e n f r e s h .

industry. N ear Holt, in north N o r­

folk, England, there is a 980-year-old
oak tree with beefsteak fungus grow ­
ing up to a height o f 12 m (40 ft)
from the base, a little bit difficult
from a picker’s point o f view, but
nevertheless a wonderful sight.

STORAGE
Like other bracket fungi this will
toughen if dried, so it is best to make
dishes and then freeze them.

PREPARATION AND
COOKING HINTS
C ut o ff any parts o f the tree still
attached to the fungus. Separate the
various layers and wipe them with a
dam p cloth. The beefsteak fungus
has a slightly metallic taste, so it is
best to slice it into strips and soak
these in milk for about two hours to
rem ove the slight acidity and acrid
flavour. Then it can be grilled as a
piece o f steak with a little onion, basil
and garlic. T ry it, too, on a charcoal
grill or barbecue. It is also excellent
added to soups and stews for extra
flavour and colour.

57
 E F lam m ulina velutipes
D

I
V elvet Sh a n k
B

As the name implies, the velvet shank

M has a dark velvety stem. It normally
U grow s during the winter months and
S can survive the frosts, indeed it may
H need a frost before starting to grow. It
R can be frozen sohd, but still survive.
O
O IDENTIFICATION

M
The cap is 3-10 cm (1V4-4 in) across
s
and fairly flat. It is light orange in
colour, paler at the edges and darker
tow ards the centre. It is also quite
sm ooth and shiny with a sticky sur­
face. The stem is 1—3 cm (Va-i'A in),
very tough and is, as the name sug­
gests, velvety and dark in colour,
particularly at the base. The flesh,
which is yellow on the cap changing
to dark brow n on the stem, has little
smell. The gills are pale yellow. The
spore print is white.

HABITAT A N D SEASON
The velvet shank often grow s in very
large clusters on dead or decaying
wood, particularly in association with
elm and oak, and also gorse roots.
The season is long because they grow
all through the winter months and so
are useful when only a limited number
o f m ushroom s is available.

STORAGE
The best m ethod o f storage is to dry
and pow der them.

PREPARATION AND
COOKING HINTS
A s they have a fairly tough texture
they really are best dried. If using
L E FT D i f f i c u l t to
c o n fu s e w ith
a n y t h i n g e ls e

them fresh, cut o ff m ost o f the stem, b eca u se o f th e

and slice the caps finely. U se to give a u n u su a l sea so n o f

g r o w t h b u t n o te th e
good flavour to soups and stews, but
a b s e n c e o f a r in g o n
rem em ber to cook them well.
th e s te m . P o is o n o u s

lo o k a lik e s w ill h a v e
a r in g o r a v e i l .

58
G rifóla frondosa (syn. Polyporus frondosas) B E L O W A N D B O T T O M L o o k f o r S m a ll E
o v e r la p p in g ca p s a n d f l e s h w h ic h d o es n o t D
H en o f THE W o o ds tu r n b r o w n w h e n b r u is e d .
I

E
This is an unusual fungus which, like
the cauliflower fungus, grow s at the M
base o f tree trunks and can be ex­ U
trem ely large. Its many caps are S
join ed together and a large specimen H
can provide a feast for many people. R
G ood to eat and quite rare, so note O
where you find it as it will certainly
O
grow there again.
M
s
IDENTIFICATION
The fruit body is 10-15 ori (4-6 in)
across, and consists o f a central section
with many branch stems ending in
individual caps. Each cap is 3-7 cm
(11/4—2% in) across and has quite a
wrinkled edge. The whole fruit body
is greyish in colour turning brown
with age. The stems are pale grey.
The hen o f the w oods has tubes
rather than gills. These are 2-3 m m
('/10 in) long and run down the stem.
The flesh, which is white, has a
slightly m usty smell.

HABITAT A N D SEASON
G row s at the base o f the trunks o f
oaks or other deciduous trees. O cca­
sionally it grow s on tree stum ps. The
season o f the hen o f the w oods is
autum n to early winter.

STORAGE nooks and crevices which harbour

The best method o f storage is drying.
O therwise freeze dishes in which you
have used this m ushroom .
PREPARATION A N D
COOKING HINTS
It is im portant to clean the hen o f the
w oods thoroughly as it has many
dirt. D ue to its very tough texture it
can be rinsed in cold water prior to
cooking. It tastes good and goes well
in a wide variety o f wild m ushroom
dishes, but, because o f its tough tex­
ture, make sure it is well cooked.
D ried and then pow dered, it can be
added to soups and stews.

59
 E H y d n u m repandum
D

I
H ed g eh o g Fu n g u s
B

E
This little gem is often quite difficult
M to find on the w o o d lan d floo r.
U Perseverance pays as it has great
S culinary value and is much sought
H after by collectors. spines on
underside
R o f cap
O IDENTIFICATION
O The cream -coloured caps are usually
M single and 2-15 cm (%—6 in) across,
s
flattening with a slight central de­
pression and rolled rim. The stem is
3.5-7.5 cm (1V4-3 in) and quite bul­
bous. It is quite dow ny and is white,
bruising slightly yellow when cut. In very thick
tough stems
place o f pores or veins, this mushroom
has little spines, hence the name
hedgehog fungus. The flesh is white
with a very pleasant smell. T he spore
print is cream-coloured.

HABITAT A N D SEASON
G row s in large num bers and under
deciduous or coniferous trees, usual­
ly in quite dam p situations such as
along drainage ditches or where there
are m ossy patches. The season is late
sum m er to late autumn.

STORAGE
These are best sliced and dried for thick, peppery
winter use, although they can be kept tasting flesh
in oil or vinegar.

PREPARATION A N D
COOKING HINTS
After cleaning, the smaller specimens
can be cooked whole or else sliced.
With larger specimens it is probably
b e st to r e m o v e the sp in e s, as
although quite edible they look like
sm all hairs and co u ld sp o il the
appearance o f the finished dish. This
is a very versatile m ushroom , going
very well with both meat and fish
dishes, but it is worth trying som e on L E FT T h e c a p c o l o u r c a n v a r y f r o m
their ow n for their excellent flavour. p i n k i s h - b u f f to t h i s r a r e w h i t e f o r m .

60
H yp h o lom a sublateritium £
D
B r ic k C ap B E L O W N o t e t h e v e i l r e m n a n t s o n t h e ca p
I
m a r g in a n d t h e r o b u s t , f l e s h y c a p s a n d B O T T O M N o t e h o w th e g ills f l u s h p u r p le
B
ste m s. T h e s e s p e c im e n s a re u n u s u a lly w e t a s th e sp o res m a tu re . T h e y a re n e v e r
a n d s tic k y . g r e e n is h - y e llo w lik e th e s u lp h u r tu ft. L
E
T h ese sm all m u sh ro o m s, w hich
slightly darker tow ards the stem. It
appear in clusters in the autumn, are M
has a definite smell o f m ushroom s.
good to eat. H ow ever, it is quite easy u
The spore print is purple-brown.
to confuse them with the sulphur s

tuft, H y p h o l o m a f a s c i c u l a r e , which is HABITAT A N D SEASON H

poisonous, so it is im portant to take T he brick cap grow s in clusters on R

care over identifying them. the stum ps o f old deciduous trees, O

from late autumn to early winter. O
IDENTIFICATION
M
The cap is 4—10 cm (1V2-4 in) across STORAGE
s
and quite convex, although it can O nly keep the caps, which are best
flatten in m ature specimens. A s the dried whole for storage.
name suggests, the cap is brick red,
darkest in the centre and often paler PREPARATION A N D
tow ards the margins. The stem is COOKING HINTS
5—18 cm (2—7 in) long and whitish, O nly collect the young specimens
but can stain darker when cut. It has a when they are at their very best.
partial veil. The gills are purplish- C ook ed lightly these give a good
grey. The flesh is pale yellow and flavour to any dish.

61
 E Lacearía am ethystea
D
I A m e th y s t D e c e iv e r
B
E
The am ethyst deceiver grow s in large
M troops. It is colourful, edible and
U
tasty, and so makes excellent addi­
S tions to your cooking.
H COOKING HINTS
R IDENTIFICATION
O The cap is 1-5 cm (V2-2 in) across. It
O is convex but flattens with age and
M develops a slight depression in the
s centre. Deep purplish-lilac in colour,
it dries to an almost b u ff colour. The
stem is 4—10 cm (iV'2-4 in), hollow
and has slightly white fibres below
the cap. The gills are a similar colour
62
to the cap. The flesh is thin and
tinged lilac. The smell is not distinc­
tive. The spore print is white.
HABITAT A N D SEASON
G row s in coniferous and deciduous
woods, often with beech and chestnut.
The season is late sum m er to early
winter. It is very com m on.
STORAGE
Dries very well. It can also be stored
in spiced alcohol to give a m ost un­
usual sauce to serve over ice-cream
and desserts.
PREPARATION A N D
As these grow quite densely and have
wide open gills, they can be dirty, so
it is im portant to clean them well
before using. If you store them in
spiced alcohol, blanch them first. It is
im portant that if stored in alcohol
these are kept in a refrigerator to
prevent fermentation. They are also
excellent fresh.
Laceada laccata
D e c e iv e r
Like the am ethyst deceiver, the dec­
eiver grow s in large troops.
IDENTIFICATION
T he deceiver has a cap that can be
slightly larger than the amethyst de­
ceiver, but is also convex and flatten­
ing. It can open to look like a chan­
terelle. The colour is tawny to pale
red and it dries to a paler colour. The
stem is 5-10 cm (2—4 in), a similar
co lo u r to the cap, but often is
twisted. The gills are well spread.
The flesh is a pale reddish-brown and
the sm ell is not distinctive. The spore
print is white.
HABITAT A N D SEASON
G row s in coniferous and deciduous
w oods. T he season is late sum m er to
early winter. They are very common.
STORAGE
The best m ethod o f storage is drying.
PREPARATION A N D
COOKING HINTS
Like the am ethyst deceiver, it is im ­
portant to clean it well before putting
it in your basket. Follow the instruc­
tions on the opposite page for spicing
in alcohol.
RIGHT, A B O V E A N D BELOW T h e
d e c e i v e r is i n c r e d i b ly v a r i a b l e a n d i t m a y
t a k e y o u m a n y s e a s o n s to r e c o g n i z e t h e
m a n y v a r ia tio n s .
63
 E Lactarius deliciosus
D

/ S affron M ilk - cap

B
L
E
A lovely, colourful m ushroom to
M find. It gro w s very close to the
U
ground and often on quite sandy soil,
s which can m ake cleaning difficult. It
H also has a hollow stem which can lead
R to problem s with infestation. T o
O avoid this problem ju st pick young
O fresh specimens, but make sure that
M
they are mature enough for a positive
S
identification, otherwise they can be
confused with the w oolly milk-cap,
L a c ta r iu s to r m in o s u s , or L a c t a r i u s
p u b e s c e n s , both o f which are poiso­

nous.
A B O V E A s y o u can s e e , th e cap b eco m e s
IDENTIFICATION p a le , a lm o s t s i lv e r y - w h i t e o r d u ll g r e e n is h

The cap is 3-12 cm { i V 4— 4 V 4 in) w ith a g e. P ic k th e fr e s h e r o ra n g e ca p s.

across, convex with a depressed cen­

tre. It has concentric rings and, as the
name suggests, is saffron in colour. ca p w ith

c o n c e n tr ic r in g s

64
 E
D

B
B E L O W I n y o u n g s p e c i m e n s t h e m a r g in is
L
in v o lu te d .
E

O n cutting you will notice that it

bleeds a saffron colour. It also has a M

clean, inrolled edge. This is an im­ U

portant means o f identification, be­ s

cause neither the w oolly milk-cap H

nor L a c t a r i u s p u b e s c e n s have clean R

edges to the cap. The hollow stem is O

3—6 cm { 1 V 4 - 2 V 2 in) pale, blotched O
with orange, and when bruised or M

broken, turns greenish. The closely

S

spaced gills are saffron in colour. The

flesh is pale. The saffron milk-cap is
brighter in colour than either o f its
lookalikes, which is a useful aid to
identification.

H A BITA T A N D SEASON
A lw ays grow s under pine or spruce
trees, and can also be found beside
paths on sandy heathland. The season
is early sum m er to quite late autumn.

STORAGE
This stores extremely well, whether
dried or in oil or vinegar.

PREPARATION A N D
COOKING HINTS
The sand and pine needles o f this
m ushroom ’s habitat make cleaning
im portant. Indeed, it m ay be neces­
sary to wash your specimens im ­
mediately before cooking, but then
dry them well before slicing and
cooking them. T he lovely crunchy
texture and good flavour make this a
much sought-after m ushroom .

R I G H T T h e c a p m a r g in is s h a g g y in t h e s e
y o u n g s p e c im e n s .

65
 E Laetiporus sulphureus
D
I
Su lp h u r P o lypo r e
B
E
O ne o f the more spectacular o f all
M udes a yellow juice. The smell is
bracket fungi, this can grow in very
V large quantities and come quite early
S in the m ushroom season. Its versatil­
H ity m akes it im portant from a culin­
R ary point o f view, but only pick
O young specimens.
O m ay also be found on yew, cherry
M IDENTIFICATION
S
The bracket can range from 15—50
cm (6-19% in) across. O ften the
shape o f a fan, it has a semi-circular
grow ing habit and quite nice round­
ed edges. The colour is spectacular;
lemon to orange-yellow , although it
tends to darken with age. The brack­
ets have an alm ost velvet-like appear­
ance. It has yellow tubes. The flesh in
66
o r C h ic k e n o f
young specimens is tender and ex­
quite pungent and a little acrid.
HABITAT A N D SEASON
G row s on deciduous trees, particu­
larly oak and sweet chestnut, but
and willow. The season is usually
from late spring to early autumn, but
if the winter has been mild it will
often appear much earlier, so keep a
look out for it.
STORAGE
D rying toughens this m ushroom , so
it is best used fresh and the finished
dish frozen.
t h e W o o ds
PREPARATION A N D
COOKING HINTS
A void the toughest specimens and
only use young ones. Cleaning can
be difficult but it is best to separate
the individual layers, brushing light­
ly; bearing in mind that the dense
texture makes it possible to wash it to
rem ove any infestation or dirt. T o
rem ove the slight bitter taste blanch
it for tw o to three minutes in boiling,
salted water prior to cooking. The
texture and flavour is o f chicken, as
the name suggests, and it is much
prized by chefs. It is wonderful for
vegetarian meals, m aking an excel­
lent chicken o f the w oods risotto or
chicken o f the w oods curry.
 E
D
BELOW T h e g ia n t p o ly p o r e , Meripilus BELOW LEFT A N D BELOW W h e n y o u n g , B O T T O M T h i s b r a c k e t la s t s q u i t e a w h i l e I
giganteus, ca n rea ch iV 2 m ( 4f t ) a cro ss. th e str a n g e lu m p y g r o w t h s of Laetiporus in t h e f i e l d a n d w h e n o l d is s o f t , s p o n g y a n d
B
I t s f l e s h s t a in s b la c k w h e n b r u is e d b u t it is sulphurous can lo o k q u ite u n lik e th e p a l e r in c o lo u r . P i c k t h e b r i g h t l y c o lo u r e d
e d ib le w h e n v e r y y o u n g . e l e g a n t b r a c k e t s it w i l l f o r m w i t h a g e .
L
f r u i t b o d ie s .
E
 E Langerm annia gigantea
D

I
G ia n t P u ff-b a l l
B

E
The giant puff-ball can be truly spec­ LEFT H e d j^ e r o w s
M tacular. It is also versatile in the a n d d it c h b a n k s a r e

U kitchen, but only pick specimens that tw o o f th e f a v o u r it e

h a b ita ts o f th e j^ ia n t
S are fresh and young and sound hol­
p u ff- b a ll.
H low when you tap the top o f the
R m ushroom . It is pointless picking
O this m ushroom once the flesh has
O become discoloured. Check its age by
M
cutting the specimen right through;
the knife should not tear the flesh but
s
pass crisply through it.

IDENTIFICATION
The fruit body can range from 5—80
cm (2-31*/2 in) across, although speci­
mens o f 120 cm (48 in) across have
been recorded. When young it has a
nice white appearance, although the
outer wall may break away to expose
the spore mass and become yellow.
Avoid at this stage.

A' ■

0 *■* '''
Ml.

/’V
■

s o lid w h ite fl e s h
w hen young

68
HA BITA T A N D SEASON
G row s in gardens, pastures, w ood­
lands and a wide variety o f other
situations, such as along dyke banks.
The season is any time from early
sum m er to late autumn unless the
weather is very dry, when it will not
grow . There will usually be several
in the sam e area and they grow in the
sam e place year after year.

STORAGE
There is no satisfactory way o f stor­
ing giant puff-balls, so it is best to
m ake up the dishes and freeze them.

PREPARATION A N D
COOKING HINTS
V ery.little needs to be done to this
m u sh ro o m . W ipe the specim en s
carefully with a damp cloth and, if
you are not going to use them im ­
mediately, wrap in cling film and
keep in the refrigerator for up to
three days. T he giant puff-ball goes
extremely well in all wild m ushroom
dishes, so u p s and stew s. It also
m akes a good breakfast sliced and
fried with bacon or else dipped in
beaten egg and breadcrum bs and
lightly fried in bacon fat.

LEFT A N D A B O V E T h is s h o w s a n o th e r
la r g e e d i b l e s p e c i e s , Lycoperdon
excipuliforme, w h i c h f r e q u e n t l y g r o w s in

la r g e c lu s t e r s . I t is c o m m o n in w o o d la n d s .

69
E Leccinum scabrum
D

I
B r o w n B ir c h B o lete
B

L
E
Although the brown birch bolete is
M not as well favoured as the orange
U birch bolete, it is still quite useful in
s the kitchen. H ow ever, only pick
H young firm specimens as older ones fle s h m ay

re d d e n in s o m e
R tend to absorb a good deal o f m ois­ fo r m s
s lig h tly s tic k y
s m o o th cap
O ture and so have a very soft texture.
O
M IDENTIFICATION
T he cap is 5-12 cm (2-42/4 in) across
s
and m id-brow n in colour. It is dry,
but can be slightly sticky in wet
weather. T he stem is 7-20 cm (22/4-
72/4 in), white with brow n to blackish
flecked scales. The pores are brown.
The flesh is white and the smell quite
pleasant. The spore print is brown.

H A BITA T A N D SEASON
G row s under birch trees. The season
is sum m er to late autumn.

STORAGE
D rying is the best m ethod o f storage.
C ut it into sections and either air-dry
or use an electric dryer.

PREPARATION A ND
COOKING HINTS
A s this m ushroom has quite a soft
texture, it is best to use it in con­
junction with other m ushroom s in a
m ixed m ushroom dish or in m ush­
room soups.

R I G H T T h e b r o w n b ir c h b o l e t e h a s r e c e n t ly
b e e n s u b d i v i d e d in t o a n u m b e r o f c l o s e l y

r e la t e d s p e c i e s , a l l o f w h i c h a r e e d i b le .

70
Leccinum versipelle
O r an g e B ir c h B o lete

A bolete that is particularly good to fle s h tu r n s r e d d is h

lila c th e n b la c k
eat. It can grow to a fairly large size
w h e n cut
and, as the name implies, is usually in
close association with birch trees.

IDENTIFICATION
The cap is 6-25 cm (2'/2—9% in)
across. It is a lovely orange colour
and has a slightly fluffy appearance at
first before becom ing sm ooth or sca­
ly depending on the weather condi­
tions. It is usually dry. The stem can
be up to 20 cm (7% in). It is white to
greyish in colour and covered with
brow n to blackish scales. The stems
o f young specimens bruise a bright
electric blue in patches. The pores are
off-w hite to grey. The flesh is pale,
becom ing blackish with age. The
smell is quite pleasant. When cut in
cross-section this m ushroom stains
quite black on the inside, but you
should not be put o ff by this as it is
good to eat. The spore print is light
brown.
le a v e s o f b ir c h ,
th e p r e f e r r e d h o s t tr e e
HABITAT A N D SEASON
G row s in association with birch and
scrub. The season is m idsum m er to
quite late autumn.

STORAGE
Because this m ushroom can be quite
large, it is best to slice it before
drying, which is the best way o f
storing it.

PREPARATION A N D
COOKING HINTS
It should only be necessary to wipe
the cap with a dam p cloth and brush A B O V E T h e c a p s m a y e x p a n d to a m u c h A B O V E T h e cap m a y b eco m e q u it e f e lt y
any loose dust particles from the g r e a t e r s i z e in p r o p o r t i o n to t h e s t e m t h a n is a n d s c a ly w it h a g e , p a r t ic u la r ly a t th e

stem. A versatile m ushroom , it is s h o w n h e r e a n d t h e c o l o u r c a n f a d e to d u l l c e n tr e .

y e llo w b u ff.
much sought after by chefs.

71
 £ Lepista nuda ( s y n . Tricholom a nudum )
D

I
W ood B l e w it
B
L
E
The w ood blewit is useful because it crow ded and very lilac, although
M appears late in the season. B u t be­ they lose their colour with age they
V ware —som e people are allergic to it. never turn brow n. It is best to pick
S M ake sure you try only a little first younger specimens that still retain
H and take care if you serve it to guests. the wonderful colour for they have
R It is also m ost im portant to rem em ­ the best flavour. The flesh is bluish
O ber it m ust be well cooked and never and the smell is quite perfumed. The gills remain
eaten raw. spore print is pale pink. violet, never
O
turn brown
M
IDENTIFICATION
S
The cap is 6-12 cm (21/2-4% in)
across. C on vex at first, it eventually
flattens and is som etim es quite con­
voluted. The cap starts by being
quite blue but then turns an alm ost
shiny tan. It dries a little paler. The
stem is 5-9 cm (2-31/2 in) and often
has purple markings. The gills are

72
 E
D

E
HA BITA T A N D SEASON
M
G ro w s in all m ix ed w o o d lan d ,
hedgerow s and gardens and som e­ U
times on open ground. The season is S

from autumn to early winter. It is H

quite com m on and often grow s in R

large quantities. O
O
STORAGE M
Because the w ood hlewit m ust be s
cooked before it is eaten, it is best not
to dry it. It does, however, keep
extremely well if it is blanched and
then put in wine vinegar, extra virgin
olive oil or spiced alcohol. But, if
kept in the alcohol, it must be stored
in the refrigerator to stop fermenta­
tion. The colour and fragrance o f this
m ushroom mean it can be used in
both sweet and savoury dishes.

PREPARATION A N D
COOKING HINTS
Q uite an easy m ushroom to clean,
gently wipe the top and cut the stem.
It is good in all m ushroom dishes,
but as it has a very strong flavour it
goes particularly well with strongly
flavoured vegetables such as onions
and leeks. T ry a hlewit bake by
m ixing onions, leeks and w ood ble­
wits in a béchamel sauce. D o not
forget, however, that some people are
allergic to it.

T O P N o t e th a t th e ca p s are s m o o th a n d n o t
s t ic k y . T h e g i l l s r e m a in v io le t , n e v e r
t u r n in g r u s t y b r o w n a s d o t h o s e o f s o m e

lo o k a lik e s p e c ie s , s u c h as Cortinarius.

R IGH T A lt h o u g h th e s e sp e c im e n s a re u n d e r
p i n e s , t h e w o o d h l e w i t is e q u a l l y c o m m o n

in d e c i d u o u s w o o d s a n d g a r d e n s .

73
 E L e p ista sa eva
D

I
F ie l d B l e w it o r B lu e L eg
B

E
The field blewit is m ost com m only
M found exactly where the name sug­
U gests. But, because they are low -
s grow ing, they are difficult to spot in
H long grass. Its other name, blue leg,
R comes from the brightly coloured
O stem. It is best picked young, to
O avoid infestation with m aggots. Re­
M member, like the w ood blewit, this
S
m ushroom m ust be cooked before it
is eaten and som e people are allergic
to it, so take care.

IDENTIFICATION
The cap is 6—12 cm (2V2-4% in)
across. Q uite convex at first then
flattening, it can be slightly depressed

when fully opened out. The cap is a

rather insignificant b u ff colour, but it
has a nice shine. T he stem, which is
3—6 cm (i'/4-2V2 in) is the m ost signi­
ficant thing about the field blewit. It
is often rather bulbous and has lilac
these are
in perfect m arkings. T he gills are crowded and
condition for whitish. The flesh is quite thick and
picking chunky and white to flesh-coloured.
It has a perfum ed smell very sim ilar
to that o f the w ood blewit. The spore
print is pale pink.

HABITAT A N D SEASON
O ften grow s in large num bers in
rings in pastureland. The season is

74
 E
D

E
autumn through to the first frosts o f
winter, although it can stand som e
M
U
light frosts.
S

STORAGE H

A s this is another m ushroom that R

m ust be cooked before it is eaten, it O
is best blanched and stored in wine O
vinegar or extra virgin olive oil. Store M
in spiced alcohol if you want to serve s
it as a dessert.

PREPARATION AND
COOKING HINTS
Very similar to the w ood blewit, the
field blewit gives a really good flavour
to stew s if it is chopped up first.

A B O V E H e r e , y o u c a n s e e c le a r ly t h e
c o m p l e t e la c k o f v i o l e t c o l o u r i n t h e c a p ,

c o m p a r e d to t h e w o o d b le w i t .

no violet
in gills

bluish-lilac
stem may fade
when old

75
E M acrolepiota procera
D w o o d la n d s , w h e r e s o m e r e la t e d s p e c i e s g r o w .
I
P ar aso l M u s h r o o m
B
L
E
The parasol m ushroom can grow
M quite large and has a long grow ing
U season. They reappear in the same
S place year after year, and m ay well
H have several flushes o f grow th during
R the season. The name is appropriate
O for this m ushroom does indeed look
O like a lady’s parasol.
M
IDENTIFICATION
s
The cap, which is 1 0 -2 5 cm (4-92/4
in) or more, starts by being very
76
B E L O W U s u a l l y f o u n d in f i e l d s , n o t in
B E L O W LE FT N o t e t h e c o a r s e b r o w n s c a le s
o n t h e c a p , t h e w h i t e r in g a n d b a n d s o f
b r o w n sc a le s o n th e s te m .
sp h erical, but so o n flatten s out
though retaining a prominent centre.
It is pale b u ff in colour and covered
with sym m etrical patterns o f dark
shaggy scales. The stem is 15-30 cm
(6-112/4 in), white and has a large
ring, the gills are white. The flesh is
thin and white and has a fairly sweet,
although not particularly distinctive,
smell. The spore print is white. This
m ushroom is usually m aggot-free
and is best collected when dry as it
soon absorbs m oisture, becom ing
so ggy and alm ost unusable.
HABITAT A N D SEASON
In open w oods and pastures, and
along roadside hedges. The season is
from early sum m er to late autumn.
STORAGE
This m ushroom dries well. D iscard
the stem s, which are tough, cut the
cap into segm ents and dry. It recon­
stitutes well and m akes an excellent
addition to soups and stews.
PREPARATION AND
COOKING HINTS
This m ushroom is usually clean and
m aggot-free, so very little attention
needs to be paid to cleaning. H ow ev­
er, dust o f f any particles on the top,
rem ove the stalk right into the cap
and cut into segm ents. An excellent,
if unusual, way o f using it is to make
up a batter with beer or lager instead
o f milk, dipping the pieces into the
batter and then deep-frying them.
Alternatively, you can dust the seg­
ments o f cap in seasoned flour and
shallow- or deep-fry. C ooked like
this it m akes a crisp starter to a meal
or a good addition to a main course.
 ■cúf''
M acrolepiota rhacodes E

D
Sh a g g y P ar aso l
I
■s
A B

L
■ iv
V •_ E

The shaggy parasol is smaller than 7;

the parasol m ushroom . Although it M

is edible it can cause stomach upsets, "V U

a point to rem em ber when serving it S

to guests. H
1 ''. '' k
- •- ?
R

IDENTIFICATION
0
The cap is 5-12 cm (2-4% in) across;
0
ovate at first, it expands to become ‘ ■ '.<:/
M
alm ost flat. It gets its name from the y
' a s
cap’s shaggy appearance. The mark­
ings are not as clear as those o f the
parasol, but it has quite a fibrous
appearance. The stem is 10-15 cm
(4—6 in), off-white with a pinky-
brow n tinge. T he gills are white at
first, becom ing tinged with red as it
ages. The white-tinged flesh bruises
reddish-brown or pink. When cut it
turns red. The sm ell is aromatic. The
spore print is white.

HA BITA T A N D SEASON
G row s in w oods and shrubberies o f
all kinds, often with conifers as well
as under hedges and along roadside stem ages
r in g
and stains
verges. The season is early sum m er will be left
brown
to late autumn. A B O V E T h e form shown here is the typical a r o u n d s te m

woodland type with dull-brown colours. In

STORAGE gardens a larger white form with very
bulbous stem base occurs.
A m ushroom that dries extremely
well. D iscard the stalk, cut the cap
into sections and dry. Reconstituted,
it is excellent in soups and stew s or
m ixed wild m ushroom dishes.

PREPARATION A N D
COOKING HINTS
V ery sim ilar to the parasol. The
shaggy parasol has a clean cap which
needs very little attention other than
a light brushing. If using fresh speci­
mens, discard the stalk and cut the
cap into segm ents, then deep fry or LE FT T h e stems may be deep in the lea f

add to mushroom dishes. The smaller litter so take care to obserue the bulbous
base which is aJeature.
caps are good for stuffing.

11
 E
M arasm ius oreades
D

I
F a ir y R in g C h a m p ig n o n o r F a ir y R in g Fu n g u s
B

t*
One o f the first mushrooms to appear
M in spring, the fairy ring champignon
u tastes ju st as good as it looks. But
s beware, there is a poisonous looka-
H like, the C l i t o c y h e r i v u l o s a , that grow s
R in a very sim ilar way in very similar
O situations. It is most im portant to
O learn to identify these two. There is
M very little similarity once they are full
s
grow n, but it is im portant not to
make any mistakes.
HABITAT A N D SEASON and C l it o c y h e r iv u lo s a does not appear
It form s rings in the shorter grass o f so early in the year, but it is im por­
old pastures or lawns. The season is tant that you can identify them.
from the spring to late autumn. It is
very com m on. It is essential to be
able to d istin guish betw een this
m u sh room and C l i t o c y h e r i v u l o s a .
The latter also grow s in rings often
very close, within a metre, to those
o f the fairy ring champignon. The
colour and gills are quite different

IDENTIFICATION
The cap is 2-5 cm ( d A - 2 in) across,
convex at first, then flattening with
quite a marked centre. Tan in colour,
it dries to a fairly light b u ff The stem
is 2 -1 0 cm (y4-4 in) and tough, so it
is best when picking to rem ove the
stem entirely. The gills are white to
tan and quite distant. The flesh is
thick. The spore print is white.

w id e ly sp a ced
th ic k g ills ,

p a l e b r o w n in c o lo u r

78
 L E FT T h i s c la s s ic f a i r y r in g is a f e w m e t r e s H
a cro ss, b u t th e y m a y rea ch o v e r a h u n d r e d D
m e tr e s!
I

B
STORAGE L
T hese m u sh room s are w onderful E
eaten fresh, but also dry very well.
They can also be stored in spiced ■M
Cinzano, extra virgin ohve oil or wine U
or cider vinegar after blanching. S

H
PREPARATION AND R
COOKING HINTS O
As long as you pick these mushrooms O
clean and cut o ff the stem s when M
picking them from grass, the only
S
problem you are likely to have is
rem ovin g a few blades o f grass.
O ccasionally a light dusting with a
brush may be necessary, but washing
definitely spoils the flavour. From a
culinary point o f view this is a vers­
atile m ushroom , goin g extrem ely
well with meat and fish dishes as well
as m ixed m ushroom dishes.

,, B E L O W N o t e h o w t h e g r a s s is s h o r t e r
fcs, w h e r e th e m u sh r o o m s are g r o w in g b eca u se

t h e n u t r ie n t s h a v e b e e n a b s o r b e d b y
'--‘I'-
th e f u n g i.
■■'■■‘■w

79
£
M orchella d ata
D

I
B la c k M o rel
В

L
E

Another m em ber o f the highly edible

M
morel family. This, like M o r c h e l l a
U
e s c u l e n t a , grow s in the early spring,

s so keep an eye open for it as soon as

H spring arrives.
R

О IDENTIFICATION
О M o r c h e lla is very similar to M.
e la ta

м
e s c u le n ta but m uch darker, often
s
alm ost black with the ridges and pits
aligned in vertical row s. The cap is
often tall and pointed. The m ush­
room stands 5-15 cm (2-6 in) high.

HA BITAT A N D SEASON
G row s in gardens, wasteland, along
roadsides and disused railway lines.
Season is throughout the spring.

STORAGE
Like M. e s c u l e n t a , the black morel is
best dried.

PREPARATION AND
COOKING HINTS
Clean thoroughly before cooking,
slicing the fruit body in half to ensure
it is free o f woodlice and so on. C ook
and serve as you w ould M. e s c u l e n t a
and, like that morel, it m ust be prop­
erly cooked before it is eaten.

80
BE L O W LE FT A N D R IG H T A n o t h e r E
s i m i l a r m o r e l is t h e c o m m o n m o r e l , D
Morchella vulgaris. L o o k c lo s e ly a t th e se
I
tw o e x a m p le s , th e ir ca p s m a y be d a r k b u t
B
t h e y h a v e c o m p l e t e l y ir r e g u la r p i t s a n d

r id g e s u n l i k e t h e b la c k m o r e ls . L
E

R
O
O
M

R I G H T O f t e n o c c u r in g
in la r g e n u m b e r s ,

t h e b la c k m o r e l m a y
b e f o u n d in b o t h

d e c id u o u s a n d
c o n ife r o u s

w o o d la n d s a s w e l l

a s a lo n g tra ck s a n d
in g a r d e n s .

8i
 E
D

I
M orchella esculenta
B

E
The morels are am ong the m ost and darkens to orange-yellow with the nooks and crannies, this morel is
M exciting springtim e fungi. Careful age. Inside it is hollow. The flesh is often infested with w oodlice and
U exam ination o f their habitat is nec­ white to cream. other w ildlife, so specim ens will
S essary because they blend into their need cleaning very thoroughly before
H background so well. They usually HA BITAT A N D SEASON drying and storing.
R grow singly; two or three can som e­ Found am ong shrubs or in open
O times be found within a reasonably w oodland, on waste ground, along PREPARATION A N D
O small area, but very rarely more. path edges and often along disused COOKING HINTS

M
Excellent m ushroom s from the cul­
S
inary point o f view, they m ust be
cooked before eating - never, ever,
eat them raw.
IDENTIFICATION
The fruit body is 5-20 cm
high. Although very convoluted, with
a honeycomb effect, the overall shape
is pointed. It is palish brown in colour
railway lines. The season is through­ The easiest way to clean this m ush­
out the spring. Wind is very im­ room properly is to slice each one in
portant in spreading the spore o f this half to make sure there is nothing
fungus so, if you find a good speci­ hiding inside, rinse it in clear water
men, follow the direction o f the and dry. One o f the nicest w ays to
prevailing wind and you will often use fresh morels is to stu ff the large
in) find som e more. fruit body. They also go well with
meat dishes and provide a very rich
STORAGE sauce. Dried, the intensity o f their
Best dried for storage. Because o f all flavour will enhance m ost dishes.

A B O V E W h e n y o u n g , t h e f r u i t b o d y is o f t e n d u l l b u f f o r b r o w n in A B O V E W h e n m a t u r e , t h e c o l o u r c h a n g e s to o c h r e o r o r a n g e -
c o l o u r w i t h b l u n t r id g e s . y e l l o w a n d t h e r id g e s b e c o m e s h a r p e r .

82
old caps are

E
D

M
U
S

M
s

83
£
D

I Pleurotus cornucopiae BELOW T h e ste m s h e r e a re sh o r te r th a n

u s u a l f o r th e y o fte n rea ch 5—8 cm ( 2 - 3 in )
B
in l e n g t h . T h e w a y t h a t t h e s t e m s a r e f u s e d
L t o g e t h e r is q u i t e c h a r a c t e r is t ic .
E
This member o f the oyster mushroom
M family is fairly widely spread. It can
U be found on the same trees and at the
S sam e time as the oyster m ushroom ,
H so always have a good look for it
R before you leave the tree.
O
O ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

M The cap is 5—12 { 2 - / p A in) across and

s
co n v ex . It often m ak es qu ite a
funnel-like shape, which frequently
becom es fluted and split at the edges.
Whitish in colour, alm ost a magnolia
shade, it turns a fairly <lark brown
with age. The stem is 5—8 cm (2—3
in). Several fans may grow from the
sam e stem, rather like flowers. The
gills are quite deep and run down the
stem; they are white to light tan in STORAGE o f the cap should be necessary. D is­
colour. The flesh is white and has a This m ushroom air-dries well. card m ost o f the stalk as it will be
rather mealy smell. The spore print is quite tough, particularly where it
lilac. P R E P A R A T IO N AND C O O K IN G was attached to the tree. The pleasant
H IN T S flavour makes it a good addition to
H A B IT A T A N D SEASON If picked carefully, only a light wipe all rtiushroom dishes.
It grow s in dense clusters on cut
stum ps o f m ost deciduous trees, in
particular elm, oak and beech. The often deep
season is spring to late autumn. funnel-like cap

gills run down

the stem

84
Pleurotus ostreatus E
D
O yster M u s h r o o m B E L O W T h i s is t h e g r e y - b r o w n la t e - I
a u tu m n / w in te r fo r m q/Pleurotus B
ostreatus. I n s u m m e r , t h e c r e a m - c o l o u r e d
L
f o r m , P. pulmonarius, is c o m m o n .
E
N o w grow n com m ercially on a fairly
large scale and so quite familiar, it is M
still exciting to find a wild oyster u
m ushroom . They grow on dead or s
decaying trees, often in large masses. H
They will grow in the sam e place in R
successive years, so remember where O
you picked them. O
M
ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
S
The cap is 6-12 cm in)
across. It is shaped rather like a fan
and larger specimens may have fluted
edges. The colour can vary; usually a
slate grey, they can som etim es have a on beech trees, they will grow on P R E P A R A T IO N AND
slightly brow n or bluish tinge. They other trees, especially elm. The season C O O K IN G H IN T S
have alm ost no stem. The gills run is all year round. If picked carefully they are likely to
dow n the stem; pure white at first, be clean and a wipe with a damp
they turn cream with age. The flesh STORAGE cloth is probably all they need. The
is white with a pleasant smell. The All m ethods o f storage can be used oyster m ushroom ’s pleasant flavour
spore print is lilac. O yster mush­ for oyster m ushroom s. If you sepa­ means that it goes well with alm ost
room s grow in groups, one on top o f rate the caps you can air-dry them all meats and fish, m aking it ex­
the other, and i f carefully rem oved very successfully. tremely useful in the kitchen.
from the tree are usually very clean.
stems may
be absent
H A B IT A T A ND SEASON
T hese occur in large clusters on
standing trees or on the stum ps o f
fallen trees. M ost com m only found

85
 E Russula cyanoxantha
D

I C h a r c o a l B u r n er
B
L

E
The charcoal burner is an excellent
M m ushroom to eat. H ow ever, it is a
U m em ber o f a very large genus and
S identification within the group can be
H very difficult. Correct identification is
R essential because some are poisonous,
O in particular the beechw ood sickener.
O R u s s u la m a ir e i, and the sickener.
M
R u s s u la e m e tic a . A s alw ays, i f in
doubt leave it out.
s
ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
T he cap is 5-18 cm (2-7 in) across
and slightly greasy. C onvex at first,
it opens out with a shallow depression
in the centre. Occasionally a single
colour but m ore often than not quite
a m ixed shade, ranging from purple
to hght green, frequently with a rather
faded appearance. The stem is 5-10
cm (2—4 in) and white. The gills run
dow n the stem and are whitish or
pale cream in older specimens. A
clear identification feature o f the
charcoal burner is that the gills do not
break aw ay i f they are touched, they
are quite clearly joined to the cap
m argin. This is in m arked contrast to
som e R u s s u l a species. The flesh is
white and the smell is pleasant. The
spore print is white.
H A B IT A T AN D SEASON
U sually to be found under broad­
leaved trees, but can also grow in
association with pine trees. The season
is sum m er to late autumn and it can
be very com m on.
STORAGE
D rying is a very good m ethod o f
storing the charcoal burner.
P R E P A R A T IO N A ND
C O O K IN G H IN T S
It is rare to find a perfect specimen,
as w oodland wildlife attack it from
alm ost the m om ent it appears. A s a
result it will need careful cleaning.
H ow ever, it is good to eat whether
fresh or dried and will add an in­
teresting taste and texture to your
m ushroom dishes as it retains quite a
crunchy texture when cooked. But
do rem em ber to be careful with your
identification o f the charcoal burner
and make sure it is not one o f the
poisonous R u s s u l a species.

cap is often o f
mixed colours or
even green

fp . stem is white,
sometimes flushed
f.. lavender

/Í
\ ■ ■■)

86
'.V’-
R IGH T A N D BELOW T h e d u ll v io le t-
p u r p l e c a p s h o w n h e r e is t y p i c a l , b u t
E
b e w a r e , t h e c a p c a n a ls o b e c o m p l e t e l y D

g r e e n . T h e b e s t m e a n s o f i d e n t i f i c a t i o n is to I
b ru sh y o u r fin g e r s o v e r th e g ills a n d th e y
B
s h o u l d b e f l e x i b l e a n d n o t c r u m b ly a s m o s t

o th e r Russulas are.
L
E

M
U
s

O
O
M
s

B E L O W A la r g e a n d c o l o u r f u l g r o u p o f
m u sh r o o m s, a ll Russula s p e c i e s . The

m u s h r o o m s in t h i s f a m i l y a r e s o m e o f t h e
m o s t d i f f i c u l t to i d e n t i f y a c c u r a t e ly .

87
 £ S p a m s sis crispa
D
I
C a u l if l o w e r
B
L
E
The cauliflower fungus is quite un­
M like any other fungus you will find in
V the w oods. When you find one you
S will understand why it go t its name.
H It is quite unusual, but grow s in the
R same place year after year, so make a
O note o f where you find it. O ne large
O specimen can last for several days if
M
stored carefully in a cool place with
its base in water.
S
ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
The cauliflower fungus has no cap in
the ordinary sense o f the word, instead
the fruit body is built up o f many
layers that resemble a cauliflower or
c o lo u r v a r ie s f r o m
to c r e a m y w h it e
88
Fu n g u s
a brain. A short stem attaches it to
the tree on which it grow s. The fruit
body ranges from 20-50 cm (7% -
i g Y 4 in) in diameter. It ages from a
pale yellow-w hite to brown. It has a
sweet smell and a lovely nutty fla­
vour.
H A B IT A T A N D SEASON
It grow s on the roots o f pine trees,
very close to the trunks. Be careful
not to cut too deeply when picking
this fungus so as not to destroy the
m ain m ycelial gro w th fro m the
roots, then you will be able to come
back for m ore in subsequent seasons.
b u ff
Look out for S p a r a s s i s v i p e s , a sub­
species o f S . c r i s p a . This lives on old
oak stum ps as well as pine trees and is
slightly pinkish. Please do not pick
this one, it is very rare and is best left
where it is to protect a fragile species.
T h e cau liflow er fu n gu s gro w s
from late sum m er to late autum n but
is tender to frosts and so will be killed
by the first hard frosts o f winter.
STORAGE
T h is d ries ex trem ely w ell. A ir­
drying is probably best: hang your
specimens up on strings in a light,
airy place for several days. Very large
specimens can be cut into sections so
they will dry m ore quickly. A s the
fungi dry the wildlife in them will fall
out, so do not attempt to dry them in
 LEFT N o t e t h e f l a t t e n e d c r i s p y l o b e s . I f E
th e y are p o in te d a n d branched yo u h a v e D
p r o b a b l y m i s t a k e n l y p i c k e d o n e o f the
I
Ramaria s p e c i e s w h ic h a re often to x ic.
B
L

M
u
s
H
R
o
o
M

your kitchen; an airy shed or outside

storeroom w ould be best. Any hint R I G H T T h e f r u i t b o d ie s a r e a l m o s t a l w a y s

o f dam pness will, o f course, spoil the a t t h e b a s e o f a tr e e o r s t u m p , a s s e e n h e r e .

drying. It is very im portant to dry

this m ushroom thoroughly - be pa­
tient, it will be worth it.

PR E P A R A T IO N AND
C O O K IN G H IN T S
Pick only cream y white specimens,
as this is when the fungus will be at
its very best. Cleaning needs care as
there are so many nooks and crannies
in the cauliflower fungus and, as it
grow s so close to the ground pine
needles can be a problem. If possible
avoid cleaning in water. It is better to
brush away any dust particles, cut
into thin slices and clean each slice
before cooking. I f you do use water,
rem em ber to dry the fungus well on
kitchen paper before cooking. One o f
the nicest w ays to deal with this
fungus is to cut it in thin slices, dip
them in a batter made with beer
rather than m ilk and deep-fry to
make a wonderfully crisp nutty star­
ter to a meal or accom paniment to a
favourite dish. But it is equally good
edge s o f lobes
if sliced fresh and added to stews and tu rn b r o w n w i t h age
casseroles.

89
E S u illu s luteus (sy n . Boletus luteus)
D

I
S lippery J a c k , P ine B o l e t e or Stic ky B u n
B
L

E The slippery jack is quite com m on
and a good find, although its open
M texture makes it prone to m aggot
U infestation. M uch prized by chefs, it
S is very versatile in the kitchen.
H pale yellow. The flesh is white. It has
R ID E N T IFIC A T IO N
O The cap is 5-15 cm (2—6 in) across; a
O nice m id -b ro w n c o lo u r w ith a
M
marked sheen. It tends to be very
sticky when wet, so is best picked in
dry conditions. The stem is 5-10 cm
(2-4 in), pale yellow with a large,
clearly visible ring. The pores are
no particularly distinctive smell. The
spore print is light brown. Only pick
mature fresh specimens.
H A B IT A T A N D SEASON
Found in association with conifers,
particularly Scots pine. The season is
late sum m er to late autumn.
STORAGE
B ecau se o f its soft texture, this
m ushroom is best thinly sliced and
dried for use in winter dishes.

s
s lim y s u rfa c e

w h e n m o is t

pores unchanged
b y b r u is in g

th ic k
p u r p l e r in g

90
 E
D

I
B O T T O M O b s e r v e h o w t h e c a p c o lo u r s
BELOW T h is a n d o th e r Suillus s p e c i e s are c h a n g e f r o m y o u n g to o ld . T h e p u r p l e -
B
o n ly f o u n d g r o w in g u n d e r c o n ife r s . b r o w n tu r n s p a l e to o r a n g e - b r o w n w i t h a g e . L
E
P R E P A R A T IO N AND
M
C O O K IN G H IN T S
As the cap is slightly sticky in texture u

it is best peeled before use. Check s

carefully for maggot infestation. This H

mushroom exudes quite a lot of juice R

when cooking, so it is a good idea to o
sweat it out first on its own. Strain o
well and keep the resulting liquid to M
be used later for a sauce. Then add s
the mushrooms to other dishes. Slip­
pery jack can be used in many ways.
One nice one is to mix the sweated
mushrooms with rashers of grilled or
fried streaky bacon, add the strained
juice, thicken with a little flour and
serve it on toast.

91
 Е

I S u illu s variegatus
В BELOW T h e r o u g h , a lm o s t d ry su r fa c e o f
t h e c a p is s e e n w e l l h e r e .
L

E Another useful bolete to add to your

collection, although it is not as good
M
to eat as the cep or the bay boletus.
V
O nly pick young specimens. They
s
are quite light in texture and there­
H
fore can becom e m aggot-infested, so
R check specimens before collecting.
О

О ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
м The cap is 5-12 cm (2-4% in) across
s and a rusty colour. It is sticky when
wet. T he stem is 5 -9 cm (2-31/2 in).
The pores are quite clearly a snuff-
brown colour. The flesh is very white.
The spore print is light brown.

d ry , s lig h tly
H A B IT A T AN D SEASON fe l t e d , s c a ly su rfa c e

Found alm ost exclusively with coni­

fers. The season is from late sum m er
P R E P A R A T IO N AND
to late autumn.
C O O K IN G H IN T S

STORAGE A wipe o f the cap is usually all that is

Best dried. necessary, but beware when slicing
specimens to look out for m aggot
in festatio n . A g o o d ad d ition to
mixed m ushroom dishes.

dark p ores

w ith s m a lle r
p o r e s w i t h i n th e
la r g e r a r e v e r y
c h a r a c te r is tic

92

T richoloma ponderosa
W h it e M a ts u ta k e
This is one o f the larger m ushroom s
and is much favoured by the Japanese.
It is excellent whether eaten fresh
or dried.
ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
The cap is 4-25 cm (I'/a—9% in)
across, convex becom ing flat, with a
broken margin. It is slightly inrolled
at first, but opens fully with age. It
has a smooth surface which feels quite
tacky when dry. It is pale white and
can be streaked with light brown.
The stem can be up to 15 cm (6 in);
it is solid and is sheathed with a veil
that runs from the cap to the base. It
breaks in patches and can become
pinkish-brow n, and quite fibrous
around the root. The gills are white,
attached and crowded. The white
flesh, which can stain light brow n,
has a slightly spicy smell. T he spore
print is white.
H A B IT A T AND SEASON
It is scattered in coastal areas in sandy
soil and is usually found in conjunc­
tion with conifers. N o t known to
grow in Europe, it is com m on in
N orth America. The season is late
sum m er to mid-autumn.
STORAGE
D rying is the best m ethod o f storage.
E
D
B E L O W T h i s la r g e s p e c i e s h a s a s i n g l e
la y e r e d r in g a t t h e s t e m a p e x , s o m e I
l o o k a l i k e la r g e r s p e c i e s w i l l h a v e d o u b l e B
r in g s a t t h e t o p .
L
E
Whole m ushroom s can be dried quite
easily, using an electric dryer, by M
hanging them up or by placing them U
on drying racks. Dried ones can often S
be found in Japanese and Chinese H
supermarkets. R
O
PR E P A R A T IO N AND O
C O O K IN G H IN T S
M
Likely to be clean when you find it, it
s
will need little m ore than washing. It
adds an interesting flavour to wild
m ushroom dishes, but is quite stri­
dent, so be careful what you use it
with and how much you use. As it
has a large cap, it can also be used for
stuffed m ushroom dishes.
93
 E T uber aestivum
D

I
Su m m e r T ruffle
B
L
E
Although sum m er truffles grow far
M m ore extensively than m ost people
U realize, finding them is difficult for
S they grow beneath the surface o f the
H soil. Anim als love them, particularly
R squirrels and deer, so watching them
O m ight give you a clue as to where to
O look.
M
ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
s
The fruit body is 2-10 cm (% -4 in)
across. It is irregular, though roughly
globe-shaped, and covered in a host
o f tiny black warts. It is blackish-
brown in colour. When cut through,
it reveals a wonderfully marbled,
reddish-brow n interior. The smell is
very distinctive and sweet and the
taste is nutty.

H A B IT A T A N D SEASON
T he su m m er truffle favours cal­
careous soils and can be found in the
ground near beech trees, and also, s p o r e s a r e d is p e r s e d
though less often, in association with b y b u r r o w in g a n im a ls

sweet chestnuts and evergreen oaks. a n d in s e c ts

The season is from late sum m er to

autumn.

STORAGE
One o f the best w ays o f storing
truffles is preserving them in olive
oil. First o f all clean the truffle care­
fully and shave o ff the skin which can
be used in future recipes. Blanch the
truffles very quickly before placing in
oil in a completely air-tight container.

P R E P A R A T IO N AND
C O O K IN G H IN T S
As truffles have a very strong flavour
they are best used in small amounts
and even a tiny quantity can trans­
form a dish. They are delicious served
with egg and pasta dishes.

94
 T uber m agnatum E
D
T he P ie d m o n t or W h it e T ru ffle I

T h is m u st be the p rize fo r all
m u s h r o o m h u n te rs. T h e m o st
sought-after o f the truffles, it is
found in very limited areas, m ostly in
northern Italy, where the finest cer­
L
E
H A B IT A T A N D SEASON only preserve the truffle but will
M
Ju st below the soil surface in m ossy flavour the oil and give it a wonder­
m ixed w oodlands. Its season is from fully rich truffle taste. These are the u
late autumn through the winter to m ost valued o f the wild fungi and s
early spring. D ue to its intense smell, com m and extremely high prices. E x ­ H

tainly grow . Unfortunately highly
trained dogs or pigs are necessary to
locate it.
ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
The fruit body is generally 5—12 cm
(2—4% in) across, although much lar­
ger, tennis-ball-sized specimens do
occasionally occur. It is irregular in
shape and yellowish-brow n in col­
our. Indeed, in colour and size it is
not unlike a new potato. The flesh is
m arbled and has a slightly reddish-
brow n tinge. The smell is highly
distinctive and very sweet.
it is found usually by dogs or pigs.
STORAGE
T hese truffles are best stored in
closed containers and used fairly
quickly after collecting. They have
an intense flavour which can perm e­
ate foods, so use them to flavour eggs
before cooking. Alternatively, put in
a closed container with freshly made
pasta and leave in the fridge over­
night. This gives the pasta a m ost
w onderful truffle scent. T he best
method o f storage w ould definitely
be in extra virgin olive oil. It will not
cellent quality ones can be obtained R
from specialist im porters and the O
truffle oil, the fresh truffles or the O
truffles in extra virgin oil are well M
worth buying. s
PR E P A R A T IO N AND
C O O K IN G H IN T S
Very little needs doing to the truffle
beyond a careful brushing. I f they are
to be used fresh, very finely sliced
slivers, quickly cooked, are best for
the intensity o f the flavour. They can
also be eaten raw.

s m o o th b u t
s o lid m a rb le d l u m p y s u rfa c e
fle s h has is c h a r a c t e r i s t i c
s tr o n g o d o u r

I >

■- .' a - ' •t'o

95

I n t r o d u c t io n
E v ery year, in spite o f repeated
warnings, people die o f m ushroom
poisoning. Such deaths emphasize
the im portance o f identifying your
m ushroom s correctly. People often
m ake the literally fatal mistake o f
assum ing that i f animals can eat a
m ushroom so can humans. U nfortu­
nately this is untrue, for example,
s lu g s eat death caps and oth er
members o f the genus A m a n i t a . So do
not be mistaken when you see signs
o f either bird or animal activity; it is
probably safe for them but m ay not
be for you. Be particularly careful if
dealing with the A m a n i t a s , remember
that their spores are poisonous and
that i f eaten they will cause extensive
dam age to the liver and central ner­
vous system . I f you think you are
dealing with an A m a n i t a , dig out the
whole specimen with a stick to ex­
amine the volval bag. It is a good idea
to protect your hand with a glove.
N ever, ever, put a poisonous
mushroom or an unidentified one with
others in your basket. If you require
a specimen for identification, put it
in a separate container, and always
w ash your hands after touching any
unidentified m ushroom s. If you pick
a deadly A m a n i t a for display, throw
P R E V IO U S PA G E A t y p ic a lg r o u p o f f ly
a g a r ic s , Amanita muscaria, s h o w in g h o w
th e red p ig m e n tfa d e s a t th e ed g es w ith a g e
o r a f t e r r a in .
the m ushroom and container im ­
mediately after use. A good w ay to
transport and display such m ush­
room s is to put them in a plastic
container on crumpled paper and to
cover the whole b ox with clingfilm.
People can then see the m ushroom
without having to touch it. There are
many old w ives’ tales about how to
identify edible and poisonous m ush­
rooms. They are all false. Particularly
dangerous is the saying that if you
can peel it you can eat it. Y ou can
peel a death cap, which got its name
for a very good reason! Other sayings
refer to staining silver spoons black.
Ignore them all, and take great care
over identification so that you can be
sure o f living to enjoy your m ush­
room trophies.
Between the good edible mush­
room s and the deadly poisonous
ones, there is an enorm ous range o f
other m ushroom s regarded as inedi­
ble or not worthwhile. These are not
all included in this book. Should you
require information about them,
consult one o f the guides listed at the
end o f this book.
Although m ost people can eat the
edible m ushroom s and fungi identi­
fied in this book, it is im portant to
p
0
1
s
o
rem em ber that eating large quantities N
o f a very rich food can often cause O
upset stom achs and som e people do u
have an adverse reaction to fungi.
s
A m on g those that could cause prob­
lem s are the w ood blewit, L e p i s t a M
n u d a , and the field blewit, L e p i s t a u
s a e v a . Should you ever becom e ill s
after eating m ushroom s, it is im por­ H
tant to see your doctor immediately. R
M ushroom poisoning can occur O
alm ost instantaneously or up to four­ O
teen hours after eating the mush­
M
room s, and at any time in between. It
s
is im perative that you seek medical
advice and, if possible, take a sam ple
o f the m ushroom you have eaten.
Correct identification o f the poison
could be life-saving, and there are
many cases o f A m a n i t a poisoning
being dealt with early enough to save
the victim ’s life.
Another m ushroom to beware o f
is the yellow Stainer, A g a r i c u s x a n t h -
o d erm u s. A m em ber o f the genus
A g a r i c u s , it grow s in sim ilar situa­
tions to the ordinary field or horse
m ushroom and can be quite com m on
in good m ushroom years. Safety is
the key for all collectors, so if you are
not sure about a m ushroom , leave it
out o f your basket.
LEFT T h e Clitocybe rivulosa, s i m i l a r to
th e f a i r y c h a m p ig n o n h u t h ig h ly to x ic .
O P P O S IT E T h e d e a th ca p , Amanita
phalloides. T h e s l i g h t r a d ia l s t r e a k i n g o n
th e cap can b e se e n w e ll h e r e .
99
 p Agaricus xanthoderm us
0
1 Y e llo w St a in e r o r Y e l l o w -s t a in in g M u s h r o o m
s
o
N

o The yellow Stainer accounts for are sweating and flushing with un­ ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

u approximately 5 0 per cent of the pleasant stomach cramps. N ot every­ The cap is 5 - 1 5 cm (2 - 6 in) across.
s
cases o f mushroom poisoning among one is affected by the yellow Stainer, Convex and angular at first, it flat­
those who pick either field or horse but it is not worth taking any risks - tens out later with a dip in the centre.
M mushrooms. It has an unpleasant leave it well alone.
u smell and taste and must be avoided
s at all costs. Identification can be diffi­
H cult and therefore take careful note of
R the identification features and illus­
O trations. The symptoms o f poisoning
o
M

in te n s e y e llo w

s ta in s o n s u rfa c e

w h e n s c r a tc h e d

cap b eco m es g r e y is h

a n d s lig h t ly s c a ly

w ith age

m a tu r e g ills

tu r n b r o w n

100
 LE FT G a r d e n s ,
p
h e d g e r o w s a n d th e 0
e d g e s o f w o o d la n d 1
arefa v o u r it e
s
h a b it a t s o f t h i s
o
s p e c ie s .
N

O
u
s

M
u
s
H

R
O
O
M

Very white when young, it darkens

->,"
.. ,
with age as it expands to a fairly large
I ■ s/, ' '
cap with greyish-brown scales. It
bruises a very bright yellow as soon
•' as it is touched or cut, making this a
valuable id e n tific a tio n feature.
Although this mushroom has many
similarities with other members of
the agaric family, the bright yellow
staining is the giveaway. The stem is
5— 1 5 cm (2 —6 in) and white, staining

bright yellow at the base. The gills

are flesh-coloured, darkening with
age. The flesh is white. Smell is an
important means o f identifying this
mushroom as it smells rather o f car­
bolic. The spore print is purple-
brown. Should you have picked a
yellow Stainer by mistake and put it
in your pan it will quite often turn
the rest of the contents a slimy sickly
yellow. It will also give off an acrid
smell in the kitchen that is very un­
pleasant.

H A B IT A T A N D SEASON
It grows in woods, pastures and gar­
dens. It has quite a long season, from
summer to late autumn. It is quite
common in certain areas.

lOI
p
A m a n ita citrina an d A m a n ita citrina var. alba
0
1 F alse D e a t h C ap
s

o
There are two form s o f the false which rarely has any veil remnants. H A B IT A T AND SEASON
death cap. A m a n i t a c i t r i n a and A m a n i ­ The stem is 6-8 cm ( 2 V 2 — 3 in). It has G row s in deciduous or coniferous
u
ta c i t r i n a var. a l b a . A lthough neither a large basal bag where the remnants w oods, especially beech w oods, but
s
are deadly poisonous, they are so o f the veil can be seen and it has a can be found in a large variety o f
M easily confused with the death cap clear ring around the stem. The gills locations. The season is from sum ­
V that it is best to leave them alone. are off-w hite at first, darkening with mer to late autumn and it is quite
s age. T he flesh is white. The spore com m on.
H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N print is white.
R
There are tw o distinct form s o f this
O fungi: one with a pale greenish-
yellow tinge to the cap { A . c i t r in a )
O
and the other with a pure white cap.
M
{A . var. a l b a ) . In both form s
c itr in a
s
the cap is 4 -1 0 cm ( 1 V 2 - 4 in) across.
It is usually covered with patches o f
the veil, which is one o f the features
that distinguishes it from the death cap

‘' »

J
 p
0
1
s
o
N
R IG H T T h e f a l s e d e a t h ca p g r o w s in b o th
c o n i f e r o u s a n d d e c i d u o u s w o o d la n d s . A O
p u r e w h i t e f o r m is c o m m o n u n d e r b e e c h . u
A p o t a t o - l i k e s m e l l is t y p i c a l.
s

u
s
H

R
O
O
M
s

v e il fr a g m e n ts
m o s tly w a s h e d BELOW I n th is e x a m p le , th e p r o m in e n t
f l a t w h ite p a tc h e s o f v e il h a v e w a sh e d o f f
th e cap le a v in g it q u ite s m o o th .

b u lb w it h

g u tte r -lik e

m a rg in
i ^

J t. ^

103
 p A m a n ita muscaria
0
1 Fly A g a r ic
s
o
N

o Without doubt this is everybody’s

idea o f a toadstool or poisonous
u
m ushroom . The little flecks on the
s
red cap which som etim es grow s to
M 20 cm in) across make it quite
u distinctive. M any fables o f m yth and
s m a g ic are a sso c ia te d w ith th is
H m ushroom . One, which sounds like
R a myth but is not, is its use by the
Sam i people o f Lapland to round up
O
their rein deer herds. T h ey take
O
advantage o f the reindeers’ liking for
M
the fly agaric and scatter dried ones
s
for the reindeer to eat, which makes
them m ore manageable. The toxins
contained in A m a n i t a m u s c a r ia attack
w h ite g ills
the central nervous system produc­ do n o t jo in
ing intoxication, hallucination and a th e s te m

euphoria that is similar to drunken­

ness. The poison stays in the system r e m a in s o f

for several m onths but the sym ptom s v e il

generally disappear in twelve hours,

although it m ay take several days to
fully recover.
The only m ushroom you are likely
to m istake for A . m u s c a r i a is A .
C a e s a r e a . How ever, A . c a e s a r e a has a

large volval bag whereas A . m u s c a r i a

does not. In addition, when cut leng­
thways, A . m u s c a r i a is white whereas
A . c a e s a r e a is yellow. Another pointer

is that the cap o f A . c a e s a r e a does not

show flecks o f the remnants o f the
volval bag. When the volval bag
finally breaks, it leaves A . c a e s a r e a
clean. A . c a e s a r e a grow s in limited
locations throughout Europe except
the U nited K ingdom .

ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
The cap o f the fly agaric is 8—20 cm
(3-7% in) across, cup-shaped at first,
it then flattens right out. A lthough
usually bright scarlet and covered
with flecks o f veil remnant, the col­
our m ay fade in wet weather, and a

104
 p
0
1
B E L O W T h i s is t h e C a e s a r ’s m u s h r o o m . B O T T O M A f t e r h e a v y r a in t h e f l e c k s m a y
s
U n l i k e t h e f l y a g a r ic , t h e c a p o n C a e s a r ’s w a s h o f f t h e c a p a n d t h e r e d c o l o u r f a d e to
m u s h r o o m is c le a n . orange. o
N
few com e up a fairly pale orange. O
The white stem is 8 -i8 cm (3-7 in). If
u
you take a specimen right out o f the
s
ground you will see the rounded,
swollen stem base. (The gills are M

white.) The smell is indistinct. These u

often occur in fairly large groups at s
all stages o f development. The spore H
print is white. R
O
H A B IT A T A N D SEASON
O
The fly agaric is m ost often found
M
with birch trees, although it can
s
occur with a wide range o f trees and
in many locations. The season is late
sum m er to late autumn and it is very
com m on.

105
 p A m an ita pan therin a
0
1 P a n t h e r C ap
s
o
N

o Less com m on than the fly agaric, the blusher after first cooking it to re­ best to avoid both species for fear o f
panther cap. A m a n i t a p a n t h e r i n a , too, m ove the toxins and then using it m aking a mistake.
u
is severely toxic. The greatest danger norm ally. H ow ever, it requires a
s
with the panther cap is that it can be very expert eye to distinguish be­ ID E N T IFIC A T IO N
M confused with the blusher. A m a n i t a tw een y o u n g sp e cim e n s o f the The cap is 5—10 cm (2—4 in) across,
u ru h escen s. M an y p e o p le eat the blusher and the panther cap, so it is almost bronze in colour, and covered
with small pure white remnants o f
s
veil. The m argin also has remnants o f
H the veil. The stem is 9—12.5 cm (3V2—
R
5 in), white with a ring. It has a very
o bulbous base and narrow ring, very
o
M

pure white
fragments of
universal veil

one or more
rings o f tissue
around bulb-like
base

106
 p
0
1
s
o
N
low down which form s a distinct free O
rim around the base. There are usual­ u
ly also one or two belted rings im­
s
mediately above the bulb. The spore
print is white. M

u
H A B IT A T AN D SEASON s
The panther cap is very uncomm on, H
grow ing with both coniferous and R
deciduous trees. The season is m id­
O
sum m er to late autumn.
O
M

A B O V E B e e c h w o o d s o n li m e s t o n e s o i l s a r e
t h e f a v o u r i t e h a b it a t o f t h e p a n t h e r ca p

a l t h o u g h it w i l l g r o w u n d e r c o n i f e r s a s

w e ll.

R I G H T T h i s p i c t u r e illu s t r a t e s t h e
n a r r o w h o o p - l i k e r in g a r o u n d t h e m i d d le

o f th e ste m .

107
 p A m an ita p h a llo id es
0
1 D e a t h C ap
s
o
N

o Each year the death cap accounts for

u
m ost o f the fatal poisonings caused
hy eating m ushroom s. It looks fairly
s
innocuous, smells pleasant and can be
M peeled. H ow ever, it is deadly and
u only one cap is needed to cause se­
s rious, possibly fatal, poisoning. The
H range o f colours can be quite dram a­ V-
tic, m aking identification even m ore
R N \.
O difficult. It can vary from a sickly
green to dark brown to pale white, so
O
great care m ust be taken over identi­ o liv e cap m a y
M
s o m e tim e s be w h ite
fication. I f you go on a foray, make
s o r y e llo w is h
sure the foray leader finds one to
point out to you. If it is dug out o f g ills

the ground you will see the volval

bag at the base very clearly. Take a
good look and remember what you
see, for a large specimen can kill
several people.

ID E N T IFIC A T IO N
The cap is 3—15 cm (1V4-6 in) across. w h it e , b a g -lik e . 4.
v o lv a su rro u n d s
It is quite round at first, flattening
s te m base
with age. It has a sm ooth, almost
shiny surface. The colour is quite
often greenish turning to a rather
dirty brow n, but beware, in wet
weather the cap can become quite
light. The stem is 5-12.5 cm (2-5 in)
and white. The gills are free and quite
crowded; white at first, mature speci­
mens m ay have an alm ost flesh-
coloured tinge. The flesh is white
with a yellow tinge by the cap, and it
smells quite sweet. The volval sac or
bag is quite pronounced. The spore
print is white.

H A B IT A T AN D SEASON
W idespread in m ix ed d ecid u o u s
w oodland, particularly in association
with oak. The season is early sum ­
mer to quite late autumn.
The death cap deserves its name, it
is the m ost deadly fungus known to

lOf!
 p
0
1
s
o
N
RIGHT T h e cap s
O
o fte n h a v e a s lig h t ly

r a d i a lly s t r e a k e d o r
u
fib r o u s ap p ea ra n ce. s

M
u
s
H

R
O
O
M
s

mankind and years o f research have

not produced any antidote to the
poison. M any have tried and som e
people have been saved by having
their blood screened through char­
coal, once the hospital had identified
it as A m a n i t a poisoning. The sym p­
tom s o f poisoning take between lo
and 24 hours to become apparent,
but during that time the poison has
been attacking the liver and the kid­
neys. The first signs o f poisoning are
prolon ged sickness and diarrhoea
with severe abdom inal pains; this is
often follow ed by a period o f appa­
rent recovery when all seems well.
How ever, death from liver and kid­ A B O V E T h e v o lv a a t th e ste m b a se m a y be
c o m p le te ly h id d e n u n d e r th e l e a f litte r , as
ney failure will occur within a few
seen here - b ew a re!
days. There is a rare form o f A .
p h a l l o i d e s which is A . p h a l l o i d e s var.

a l b a . Apart from being pure white

throughout, which makes it look de­

ceptively like an innocent m ush­
room , the features by which you will
identify it are exactly the same and it
is ju st as deadly. L E FT A l w a y s c a r e f u lly c le a r a w a y
a r o u n d t h e s t e m b a s e to e x p o s e t h e r e m a in s
o f a v o lv a .

109
 p A m a n ita virosa
o
¡ D e s t r o y in g A n g el
s
o
N

O Like m any A m a n i t a s , the destroying

u
angel grow s from a volval bag. It is
deadly poisonous and well deserves
s
its name, being white and fatal. The
cap
M sym ptom s o f the poison are the same
u as for A m a n i t a p h a l l o i d e s .
s
H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

R The cap is 5—15 cm (2—6 in) across,

O bell-shaped at first, it becomes very
irregular when open. It is pure white.
O
T he stem is 9-12 cm (3V2-4y4 in) and
M
grow s from a fairly large volval bag
s
that is not regular at the base, but can
la rg e, w h ite
clearly be seen with the fungus grow ­
b a g - lik e v o lv a
ing from it. There is a white ring
which is very fragile and often in­
complete. The gills are pure white.
The flesh is white and the smell is
slightly sickly. The spore print is
white.

H A B IT A T A N D SEASON
G row s in m ixed deciduous w ood­
land and is happily not as com m on as
the death cap. The season is usually
m idsum m er to autumn. I f you are on
a foray, this is another m ushroom
that you should ask the foray leader
to point out to you, for once seen
you will be unlikely to forget it.

R IGH T T h e ca p o f th is s p e c ie s o fte n h a s a
d is t in c t h u m p o r b l u n t p o i n t a t t h e c e n t r e .

I 10
 p
0
C litocybe dealbata 1
BELOW T h is s h o w s th e ra th erfr o s te d
s
a p p ea ra n ce o f th e w h ite caps a n d th e
o
s lig h tly d ecu rren t g ills .
N

Do not be fooled by this innocent­ O

looking little mushroom, it is severely u
toxic. It often grows in just the places s
that many edible mushrooms grow.
M

u
IDENTIFICATION
s
The cap is 2 - 5 cm (K - 2. in) across,
flat with a depression slightly inrol- H

led and fluted round the edge. It is R

off-white in colour. The stem is 2 - 3 O
cm {V ^ - 1 % in) and whitish. The gills O
are quite crowded and run part way M
down the stem. They are almost
s
cream in colour. The flesh is white
and has a mealy smell. The spore
print is white.

H A B IT A T AN D SEASON
Grows in lawns, pasturelands and old
meadows, often in troops or rings. It
can be also be found in open wood­
land. The season is summer to late
autumn and it is quite common.

s ilk y or
fr o s te d a p p ea ra n ce
o f ca p su rfa c e
 p
0
1 C lito c y b e rivulosa
s BELOW T h e Clitocybe rivulosa
m u s h r o o m s a re u s u a lly a s i lk y g r e y is h -
o
w h ite , as h ere.
N

o
Another innocent-looking, but sev­
erely toxic m ushroom that can easily
u
be confused with the edible fairy ring
s
cham pignon, M a r a s m i u s o r e a d e s . Both
M grow in rings, in similar situations
V and at m uch the same time o f the
s year. Indeed it is not uncom m on for
H rings o f each species to grow within a
R few metres o f each other. So take
care. It w ould probably be a good
O
idea to seek out live examples o f both
O
before you start picking the fairy ring
M
champignon.
s

s m o o th s ilk y cap

112
 s lig h tly fu n n e l- s h a p e d cap

p
0
1
s
o
N

O
u
s

u
s
H
R

O
O
M
s

H A B IT A T A N D SEASON
In troops or rings in sandy soil
am o n g st grass, beside paths and
roads. The season is late sum m er to
late autumn and it is very com m on.

B E L O W T h e s e c a p s a r e r a t h e r w a t e r lo g g e d
a n d s o a p p e a r b r o w n e r t h a n n o r m a l.

U s u a lly th e y are a s ilk y g r e y is h - w h ite .

ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
The cap is 2 -5 cm { ¥ 4 - 2 in) across;
cup-shaped at first, it soon flattens
out with a sm all depression in the
centre. The m argin remains shghtly
rolled. It is grey and concentric rings
are visible. T he stem is 2 -4 cm (% -
1V2 in) and a sim ilar colour to the
cap. T he crow ded, grey gills run part
w ay down the stem. T he flesh is
dirty white to grey. The closeness o f
the gills and the colour and shape o f
the cap are im portant w ays to dis­
tinguish this m ushroom from the
fairy ring champignon. The spore
print is white.

II3
 P
C oprinus atramentarius
0
1 C o m m o n In k C ap
s
O
N

O The com m on ink cap is not poisonous

U
in itself, but if eaten in conjunction
with alcohol, it can cause alarm ing
s
sym ptom s, such as nausea, palpita­
M tions and stom ach cramps. For this
U reason it has been used over the years
s in attem pts to cure alcoholics. The
H ink cap gets its name from the fact
R that it was used many years ago by
O m onks to produce an exceptionally
fine draw ing ink, m ade by boiling
O
the collapsed inky caps with a little
M g il ls b la c k e n
water and a hint o f cloves. The dif­ a n d liq u ify w h e n
s
ference between the com m on ink cap m a tu r e f r o m th e

and the sh aggy ink cap is quite e d g e in w a r d s

marked, but it is im portant that you

recognize this one for it w ould be a
catastrophe to make a mistake at a
dinner party at which you were serv­
ing alcohol. Y oung specimens o f the
m agpie fungus, C o p r i n u s p i c a c e u s ,
could be confused with the com m on
ink cap. A lthough not as com m on as
this, it grow s in fairly large quantities
in the late sum m er to autumn. It is
best avoided because although not n o te b r o w n

poisonous it can cause nausea and s c a ly b a se

to s t e m
vom iting in som e people.

ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
The cap is 2 - 4 cm (y4-i*/2 in) across,
white and bell-shaped. Light grey to
greyish-brow n in colour, with veil
remnants often attached to the cap.
The stem is 7—17 cm {2^/4— in) and
white. The gills are crowded, white
at first, they change from brow n to a
dark inky m ass. The smell is not
distinctive. The spore print is brown. LEFT T h i s is o n e
o f th e m ost co m m o n
H A B IT A T A N D SEASON s p e c i e s in t o w n s ,

The com m on ink cap grow s in tufts, ga rd en s and

w o o d la n d s
often in association with buried
everyw here,
w ood. The season is from spring to
o f t e n a s s o c ia t e d
late autumn and they are very com ­ w ith d ea d or
m on, often grow ing in large troops. b u r ie d w o o d .

114
 p
Galerina autumnalis
0
D e a d l y G a l e r in a 1
s
o
N
T h is fu n g u s is d e a d ly p o is o n o u s an d 2 - 1 0 c m (¥4-4 in) a n d f a ir ly b u lb o u s HABITAT AND SEASON O
m u s t b e a v o id e d . T h e p o is o n in g is at th e b a se . T h e r e a re s lig h t b r o w n is h T h e d e a d ly g a le rin a ten d s to liv e o n
V
ve ry s im ila r to th e e ffe c ts o f th e to b la c k is h m a r k in g s at th e b a se o f w e ll- d e c a y e d c o n ife r o u s or de­
s
A m an ita fa m ily . th e s te m , a n d th e m y c e lia l th re a d s are c id u o u s w o o d , o fte n in q u ite la r g e
c le a r ly v is ib le at th e b o t t o m . T h e r e is tr o o p s . Its se a so n is fr o m late s p r in g M
ID ENTIFICA TIO N a v e il th at b r e a k s f a ir ly e a s ily a n d is to a u tu m n . T h e d e a d ly g a le rin a is n o t u
T h e ca p is 2 .5 —7 c m ( i - 2 y 4 in) a c ro ss. q u ite s m a ll. T h e g ills a re a tta c h e d an d k n o w n in E u r o p e , b u t q u ite c o m m o n s
It is c o n v e x at firs t, b e c o m in g fla t q u ite c lo s e , y e llo w is h in c o lo u r , b e ­ in N o r t h A m e r ic a . T h e v e r y s im ila r
H
w it h a s lig h t d o m e at th e ce n tre . It is c o m in g re d d e r w it h a g e . T h e fle sh is G . marginata, h o w e v e r , is q u ite c o m ­
R
a d a rk b r o w n fa d in g to a lig h t b u f f o f f- w h it e . T h e d e a d ly g a le rin a h as n o m o n in B r it a in an d is e q u a lly d e a d ly .
O
w it h a g e , a n d w h e n m o is t is q u ite d istin c t s m e ll. T h e s p o r e p rin t is d u ll
O
s t ic k y an d s h in y . T h e h o l l o w s te m is o ra n g e-b ro w n .
M
s

ABOVE N ote the brownish-yellow gills

which distinguish this from edible species
such as the honey fungus.

115
 P
Hygrophoropsis aurantiaca
0
1 F a l s e C h a n t e r e l l e
s
O
N
O A lt h o u g h n o t p o is o n o u s in th e w a y
th at a g a ric a n d a m a n ita m u s h r o o m s
U
are, th e fa ls e ch a n te re lle is k n o w n to
s
ca u se g a s tro -in te s tin a l p r o b le m s .
M
U IDENTIFICATION
s T h e ca p is 2 —8 c m ( % - 3 in) a c ro s s ,

H fla t at firs t w it h a s lig h t ly in ro lle d

R m a r g in , it becom es m o re fu n n e l-
sh a p e d w it h a g e . In la r g e s p e c im e n s
O ABOVE AND RIGHT T he fa ls e chanterelle
th e ca p is m o re flu te d an d lo o k s
O is very common under both pines and birch
m uch m o re lik e a c h a n t e r e lle . trees, and the cap becomes funnel-shaped
M
H o w e v e r , th e fa lse c h a n te re lle ’ s cap with age.
s
is o r a n g e ra th e r th an th e y e l l o w o f
th e tru e ch a n te re lle . The g ills are
d a rk o r a n g e , c lo s e a n d ru n d o w n th e
ste m . T h e s p o re p rin t is w h ite .

■■■■Ail

HABITAT AND SEASON

G r o w s in c o n ife r o u s w o o d la n d an d
o n h e a th la n d . It is v e r y c o m m o n an d
o fte n g r o w s in tro o p s c lo s e to c h a n ­
terelle s. T h e se a so n is fr o m s u m m e r
to late a u tu m n .

116
Hypholoma fasciculare P
0
S u l p h u r T u f t 1
s
o
N
T h is is a v e r y c o m m o n m u s h r o o m ID EN TIFICATION s u lp h u r - g r e e n th en b r o w n w it h a g e. O
an d g r o w s all th e y e a r ro u n d , e v e n in T h e ca p is 2 - 9 c m in) a c ro ss T h e fle sh is b r ig h t y e l l o w , b e c o m in g
u
th e w in te r. It is n o t d e ad ly p o iso n o u s, a n d is c o n v e x . T h e re m a in s o f th e b r o w n is h n e a r th e b a se o f th e ste m . It
s
but d e fin it e ly s h o u ld be a v o id e d . y e l l o w v e il o fte n a d h e re to th e m a r­ h as q u ite a m u s h r o o m y s m e ll. T h e
It c o u ld be c o n fu s e d w ith o th e r g in . T h e ca p it s e l f is b r ig h t y e l l o w s p o r e p rin t is p u r p le -b la c k . M
fu n g i, su c h as h o n e y fu n g u s A rm - w it h a d a rk o r a n g e ce n tre. T h e ste m u
illaria m ellea, an d b ric k ca p , H y p h o- is 4 - 1 0 c m ( 1V 2 -4 in ), c u r v e d an d a HABITAT AND SEASON s
iom a su blateritiu m , th at a re e x tre ­ s im ila r c o lo u r to th e cap . T h e g ills This occurs in dense clusters on the H
m e ly g o o d to eat, so ta k e ca re w ith sta rt b r ig h t y e l l o w , b u t tu rn . d a rk rotting timber and stumps o f de­ R
y o u r id e n tific a tio n . ciduous and Coniferous trees. It O
grows throughout the year.
O
M
s

note purple-brown
spores deposited
on stem

1 17
 p Inocybe patouillardii
0
1 R e d - s t a in in g I n o c y b e
s
o
N
o The red-staining inocybe is severely
u toxic and therefore must not be
eaten. Many of the others in this
s
family are poisonous, if not as deadly
M as this one, therefore it is best to
u avoid all the inocybes.
s
H ID EN TIFICA TIO N
R The cap is 3-10 cm ( 1 I/4-4 in) across,
O slightly conical and uneven. The
margins are often cracked, giving the
O
typical appearance o f an inocybe.
M
Cream-coloured, the cap has red-
s
staining fibres. The stem is 3-10 cm
(11/4-4 in), fairly thick and slightly
bulbous at the base. The gills are
quite pink at first, like those o f a
mushroom, and then darken to a
light brow n colour. The flesh is
white and has no particular smell.
The spore print is dull brown.

HABITAT AND SEASON

Grows along paths in mixed wood­
land on chalky soils, especially those
with beech and, less often, chestnut.
The season is spring to late autumn.

RIGHT T he white fibrous cap and stem,

with blood red stains when bruised, are very
distinctive. T he red-staining inocybe likes
open woodlands on chalky soils.

118
 P
0
Lactarius pubescens 1
BELOW The cap should be pale pinkish- S
white, if the caps are deep pink you may
o
have Lactarius torminosus.
N
Lactarius pubescens is a member of the O
large milk cap family. It is important u
to be able to identify this mushroom
s
for not only is it a strong emetic but
it can be confused with the edible M
saffron milk cap {Lactarius deliciosus). u
The woolly edges of Lactarius pubes­ s
cens are an important feature of iden­ H
tification. R
O
IDENTIFICA TIO N
O
The cap is 4-10 cm ( 1V2-4 in) across,
M
convex and slightly depressed with
s
the margin markedly inrolled and
woolly at the edge. It is often quite
pale to rose pink; but this tends to
fade in direct sunlight. The stem is
3—6 cm (i'/4-2'/2 in) and a palish pink.
is L. torminosus, a brighter pink and widely but often near birch trees on
The gills are crowded, light pink and
equally upsetting if eaten. fairly poor or sandy soil. The season
tend to darken with age. They run
is from late summer through to quite
down the stem. The flesh is quite
HABITAT AND SEASON late autumn.
thick and whitish, but can have a
This mushroom tends to grow fairly
pinkish tinge. There is no particular
smell. Equally common and shaggy
g i l l s b le e d

w h ite m ilk
w h en cut

fu n n e l-s h a p e d
. cap

II9
 p Paxillus involutus
0
1 B r o w n R o l l -r im
s
o
N
o The brown roll-rim is a very com­ and mid- to red-brown colour. The
u mon mushroom. It is also severely cap is slippery when moist and shiny
toxic. It can have a boletus-like when dry. The stem is up to 7.5 cm
s
shape, which makes matters worse, (3 in) and similar in colour to the cap. ABOVE A mature cap with margin
M som e boletus species being, o f The narro w , crow ded gills are unrolled.

u course, edible. The toxins have yet to
s be identified, but their effect is some­
H what similar to leukaemia.
R
O ID EN TIFICA TIO N
The cap size is 5—15 cm (2—6 in)
O
across. It is quite flat when young,
M
becoming convex and somewhat
s
funnel-shaped with age. It gets its
name from its clearly inrolled rim
yellow turning brown to red-brown
when bruised. The gills run down
the stem. The spore print is sienna.
HABITAT AND SEASON
The brown roll-rim grows beside
paths in broad-leaved woodland,
especially with birch, and on quite
acid heathland. It has a long growing
season from summer to late autumn.
ABOVE T his is an immature cap with
tightly rolled cap margin.

in r o lle d

m a rg in

120
 P
Russula emética
0
T h e S ic k e n e r 1
BELOW The s
sickener isfound
o
underpines,
especially in wet N
There are at least 150 different species areas. O
o f Russula, making it one of the u
largest groups of fungi. Some, such s
as the charcoal burner, are edible, but
many are highly poisonous. The M
sickener and the very similar looking i u
beechwood sickener. Russula mairei, V s
did not get their names without good H
reason. It is really best to leave this i R
family very well alone. When peeled, it shows red-coloured O
flesh underneath. The white stem is O
IDEN TIFICA TIO N 4-9 cm ( 1 V2- 3I/2 in). The gills are M
The cap is 3-10 cm (i'/ 4-4 in) across creamy, darkening slightly with age. HABITAT AND SEASON
s
and is quite cup-shaped, later flatten­ The flesh is thin and fragile and can G ro w s a lm o s t e x c lu s iv e ly under
ing with a shallow central depress­ be quite sticky. It is white except p in e s. T h e se a s o n is s u m m e r to late
ion. The cap is a brightish red, but under the cap. The smell is sweet and a u tu m n a n d it is v e r y c o m m o n . A s
sometimes has faded white areas. fruity. The spore print is whitish. its n a m e s u g g e s ts , th e b e e c h w o o d
s ic k e n e r, w h ic h h as a s im ila r se a so n ,
gro w s a lm o s t e x c lu s iv e ly under
b e e c h trees.
p u r e red
ca p s k in p e e ls

o f f v e r y e a s ily

fle s h is
b r ittle a n d

I2I

G l o s s a r y
asci The sacs in Ascomycetes in
which the sexual spores are
formed.
Acomycetes Group of fungi
characterized by bearing the sexual
spores in a sac (asci).
Basidiomycetes Group o f fungi
characterized by the presence of
spore-bearing cells called basidia.
brackets Shelf-like fruit bodies.
cap The portion o f the mushroom
bearing the gills and the tubes.
convex A surface that is curved or
rounded outwards.
decurrent Running down the stem.
fibrous Composed of fine fibres or
threads.
flesh Inner tubes o f a fungus.
fruit body Structure on which the
spore-producing cells are held.
OPPOSITE Horn ofplenty, Craterellus
cornucopioides.
hyménium Layer of spore-
producing cells.
inrolled Curled inwards and down.
marginate With a distinct ridge or
gutter-like margin.
milk Sticky fluid released by some
fungi when damaged.
network A mesh or pattern o f criss­
crossed fine ridges.
partial veil The fine web o f tissue
connecting the cap margin to
the stem.
pores The openings of the clustered
tubes in Boletes and Polypores.
recurved Curving backwards, i.e.
scales with recurved tips.
ring Remains o f the partial veil left
on the stem.
G
L
O
s
s
A
scales Small to large raised flakes or R
flaps o f tissue, usually on the cap or Y
stem surface.
spore Reproductive cell o f typical
mushroom.
spore print A thick deposit of
spores dropped by a mushroom
cap onto paper.
stem The ‘stalk’ on which a
mushroom cap is raised up.
striated With distinct parallel
grooves or lines especially at the
cap edge.
tubes The downward-pointing
clusters o f tubes on Boletes and
Polypores within which the spores
are produced.
universal veil The fine to thick
covering o f tissue which envelopes
some fungi when immature.
volva Example of thick universal
veil which remains as a bag at the
base o f the stem.
LEFT Saffron milk-caps, Lactarius
deliciosus.
123
 /
N
I n d e x
D
E N um bers in bold indicate the main entry. am ethystea), 25, 62 Charcoal burner {Russula
X Aniseed toadstool {C litocy be odora), cy an ox an th a) , 86, 87
50, 51 Chicken o f the woods {Laetiporu s
A garicus arvensis (horse mushroom), A rm illaria m ellea (honey fungus or sulphureus), 16, 25, 66, 67
11, 26, 27 boot-lace fungus), 25, 36, 37 C litocy be dealbata, 111
A garicus augustus (the prince), 28 Ascomycetes, 10, 11 C litocy befrag ran s, 51
A garicus bisporus, 29 A uricularia auricula-judae (Jew’s ear or C litocybe odora (aniseed toadstool),
A garicus campestris (field mushroom), tree ear), 16, 38, 39 50, 51
16, 30, 31 C litocybe riuulosa, 78, 112, 113
A garicus macrosporus, 32
A garicus silvaticus, 33 В
A garicus s ih ic o la (wood mushroom), Basidiomycetes, 10, 11
34 Bay boletus {Boletus badius), 14,
A garicus xanthoderm us (yellow Stainer 25, 40
or yellow-staining mushroom), Beefsteak fungus {Fistulina hepático),
27, 34, 98, 100, 101 25, 56, 57
Alcohol ink cap {C oprinus Black morel {M orchella elata), 25, 80,
atram entarius), 114 81
A leu ria aurantia (orange peel fungus), Blue leg {L epista saeva), 74, 75
35 Blusher {A m anita rubescens), 106
A m anita caesarea (Caesar’s B oletu s badius (bay boletus), 14, 25, 40
mushroom), 104, 105 B oletu s chrysenteron (red-cracked
A m an ita citrina (false death cap), boletus), 41 Collecting mushrooms
102, 103 B oletu s edulis (cep or penny bun), 17, cleaning, 18
A m anita citrina var. alba, 102, 103 25, 42, 43 equipment, 18, 19
A m an ita muscaria (fly agaric), 104, 105 B oletu s luteus (slipperyjack, pine method of, 19
A m an itap an th erin a (panther cap), bolete or sticky bun), 90, 91 places for, 14
106, 107 Boot-lace fungus {A rm illaria m ellea), time for, 16, 17
A m an itap h a llo id es (death cap), 108, 36, 37 Common ink cap {C oprinus
109 Brick cap {H y p h olom a sublateritium ), atramentarius), 114
61 Common morel {M orchella
Brown birch bolete {Leccinum vulgaris), 81
scabrum), 70 C oprinus atram entarius (common ink
Brown roll-rim {P ax illu s involutus), cap or alcohol ink cap), 114
120 C oprin us comatus (shaggy ink cap or
lawyer’s wig), 52, 53
C op rin u spicaceu s (magpie fungus),
53, 114
Caesar’s mushroom {A m anita Cortinarius, 73
caesarea), 104, 105 Craterellus cornucopioides (horn of
C a lo cy be gam bosa (St George’s plenty or trompette des morts),
mushroom), 16, 44, 45 54, 55
C antharellu s cibarius (chanterelle), 14, C raterellus infundibuliform is (winter
25, 46, 47 chanterelle), 48, 49
A m an ita rubescens (blusher), 106 Cauliflower fungus {Sparassis crispa),
A m an ita virosa (destroying angel), 11, 88, 89
110 Cep {Boletus edulis), 11, 17, 25, 42, 43 D
34, 98
A m anitas, Chanterelle {C an tharellus cibarius), 14, Deadly galerina {C olerin a autum nalis),
Amethyst deceiver {Laccaria 25, 46, 47 115

124
Death cap {Amanita phalloides), 108,
109
Deceiver {Lacearía laccata), 63
Destroying angel {Amanita virosa),
110
Fairy ring champignon or fungus
{Marasmius oreades), 16, 78, 79, 112
False chanterelle {Hygrophoropsis
aurantiaca), 46, 116
False death cap {Amanita citrina), 102,
103
Field blewit {Lepista saeva), 16, 25,
74, 75, 99
Field mushroom {Agaricus campestris),
16, 30, 31
Fistulina hepática (beefsteak fungus),
24, 56, 57
Flammulina velutipes (velvet shank)
16, 58
Fly agaric {Amanita muscaria),
104, 105
Forays, 24
Freezing mushrooms, 20, 21
Galerina autumnalis (deadly
galerina), 115
Galerina marginata, \\5
Giant polypore {Meripilus
giganteas), 67
Giant puff-ball {Langermannia
gigantea), 68, 69
Grifólafrondosa (hen o f the Lawyer’s wig {Coprinus comatus), I
woods), 59 52, 53 N
Leccinum aurantiacum, 14 D
Leccinum scabrum (brown birch E
H bolete), 70 X
Hedgehog fungus or Pied de Mouton Leccinum versipelle (orange birch
{Hydnum repandum), 60 bolete), 14, 71
Hen of the woods {Grifólafrondosa), Lepista nuda (wood blewit), 16, 25,
59 72, 73, 98
Hirneola auricula-judae (Jew’s ear or Lepista saeva (field blewit or blue leg),
tree ear), 38, 39 16, 24, 72, 73, 99
Honey fungus {Armillaria mellea), 25, Lycoperdon excipuliforme, 69
36, 37
Horn o f plenty {Graterellus
cornucopioides), 54, 55 M
Horse mushroom {Agaricus arvensis), Macrolepiota procera (parasol
11, 26, 27 mushroom), 53, 76
Hydnum repandum (hedgehog Macrolepiota rhacodes (shaggy
fungus), 60 parasol), 77
Hygrophoropsis aurantiaca (false Magpie fungus {Coprinuspicaceus),
chanterelle), 46, 116 53,114
Hypholomafasciculare (sulphur tuft), Marasmius oreades (fairy ring
61, 117 champignon or fungus), 16, 78, 79,
Hypholoma suhlateritium (brick 112
cap), 61 Meripilus giganteas (giant polypore),
67
Morchella elata (black morel), 25,
80, 81
Identification of mushrooms, 24 Morchella escalenta (morel), 16, 25,
Inocybepatouillardii (red-staining 80, 82, 83
inocybe), 118 Morchella vulgaris (common
morel), 81
Morels {Morchella escalenta), 16, 25,
80, 82, 83
Jew’s ear {Auricularia auricula-judae),
16, 38, 39
Lacearía amethystea (amethyst
deceiver), 24, 62
Lacearía laccata (deceiver), 63
Lactarias deliciosas (saffron milk-cap),
64, 65, 119
Lactarias pubescens, 64, 119
Lactarias torminosus (woolly milk-
cap), 64,119 Mushroom poisoning, 98
Laetiporus sulphurous (sulphur
polypore or chicken o f the woods),
16, 25, 66, 67 o
Langermannia gigantea (giant puff­ Orange birch bolete {Leccinum
ball), 68, 69 versipelle), 14, 71
125
 I Orange peel fungus {Aleuria
N aurantia), 35
D Oyster mushroom {Pleurotus
E ostreatus), 16, 85
X Russula emetica (the sickener), 121
Panther cap {Amanita pantherina),
106, 107
Parasol mushroom {Macrolepiota
procera), 53, 76
Paxillus involutus (brown roll-rim),
120
Penny bun {Boletus edulis), 25, 42, 43
Pickling mushrooms, 21
Pied de mouton {Hydnum
repandum), 60
Piedmont truffle {Tuber magnatum),
95
Pine bolete {Suillus luteus), 90, 91
Pleurotus cornucopiae, 84
Pleurotus ostreatus (oyster
mushroom), 16, 85
Pleurotuspulmonarius, 85
Polyporusfrondosus (hen of the
woods), 59
Prince, the {Agaricus augustus), 28
Red-cracked boletus {Boletus
chrysenteron), 41
126
Red-staining inocybe {Inocybe Tuber aestivum (summer truffle),
patouillardii), 118 10, 94
Russula cyanoxantha (charcoal Tuber magnatum (Piedmont or white
burner), 86, 87 truffle), 95
Russula mairei, 121
Velvet shank {Flammulina velutipes)
16, 58
Saffron milk-cap {Lactarius deliciosus), Verdigris agaric {Stropharia
64, 65,119 aeruginosa), 50, 51
Salt preserving, 21
Shaggy ink cap {Coprinus comatus),
52, 53
Shaggy parasol {Macrolepiota
rhacodes), 77
Sickener, the {Russula emetica), 121
Slipperyjack {Suillus luteus), 90, 91
Sparassis crispa (cauliflower fungus),
11, 88, 89
Sparassis pipes, 88
Spore prints, 13
St George’s mushroom {Calocybe
gambosa), 16, 44, 45
Sticky bun {Suillius luteus), 90, 91
Storing mushrooms, 20, 21
Stropharia aeruginosa (verdigris
agaric), 50, 51
Suillus, 14
Suillus luteus (slipperyjack, pine
bolete or sticky bun), 90, 91 White matsutake {Tricholoma
Suillus variegatus, 92 ponderosa), 93
Sulphur polypore {Laetiporus White truffle {Tuber magnatum), 95
sulphureus), 16, 24, 66, 67 Winter chanterelle {Cantharellus
Sulphur tuft {Hypholomafasciculare), infundibuliformis), 48, 49
61, 117 Wood blewit {Lepista nuda), 16, 25,
Summer truffle {Tuber aestivum), 10, 72, 73, 98
94 Wood ear (Auricularia auricula), 38,
39
W ood m u sh ro o m (Agaricus
silvicola), 34
Tree ear {Auricularia auricula-judae), Woolly milk-cap {Lactarius
16, 38, 39 torminosus), 64, 119
Tricholoma nudum (wood blewit),
72, 73
Tricholoma ponderosa (white
matsutake), 93 Yellow Stainer or yellow-staining
Trompette des morts {Craterellus mushroom {Agaricus
cornucopioides), 54, 55 xanthodermus), 21, 34, 98, 100, 101

B ib l io g r a p h y
AROEA, DAVID, Mushrooms
Demystified (Berkeley 1986, 2nd ed)
STEVENSON, G . , Field Guide to Fungi
University of Canterbury
Publication No. 30, Christchurch,
New Zealand (Christchurch 1982)
C A R L U C C io, A ., APassionfor
Mushrooms (London 1989)
CLELAND, }.B., Toadstools and
Mushrooms and other Larger Fungi of
South Australia (Adelaide 1934,
reprinted 1976)
DICKENSON, COLIN a n d LUCAS,
The Encyclopedia of
JO H N ,
Mushrooms (London 1979)
FINDLAY, W . P . K . , Wayside and
Woodland Fungi (London 1967)
FÜHRER, B . , A Field Companion to
B
I
B
L
Australian Fungi (Victoria 1985) MACDONALD, R a n d WESTERMAN, J . , I
GARNWEIDNER, E . , MushrOOmS of Fungi of South-eastern Australia o
Britain and Europe (London 1994) (Victoria 1979) G
HURST, J. and RUTHERFORD, L ., A MILLER, ORSON K ., Mushrooms of
R
Gourmet’s Book of Mushrooms and North America (New York 1978)
A
Truffles (London 1991) PHILLIPS, R ., Mushrooms and Other
p
LiNCOFF, GARY H . , The Audubon Fungi of Great Britain and Europe
H
Society Field Guide to North (London 1981)
American Mushrooms (New York SHEPHERD, C .J. and TOTTERDELL,
Y
1981) c . j . , Mushrooms and Toadstools of
LINCOFF, GARY H. a n d PARIONI, Australia (Sydney 1988)
GIOVANNI e d . , Simon and Shuster’s SMITH, ALEXANDER a n d WEBER,
Guide to Mushrooms (New York NANSY, s.. Mushroom Hunter’s Field
1981) Guide (Michigan 1980)
KIBBY, G ., An Illustrated Guide to W O O D , A ., Australian Mushrooms and
Mushrooms and Other Fungi of Toadstools - How to Identify Them
Britain and Northern Europe (Kensington 1980)
(London 1982)

S o c ie t ie s

One of the best ways to learn about The Tasty Mushroom AUSTRALIA
mushrooms is to go on a foray led by Partnership
Sydney Fungal Studies Group
an expert. For details o f local groups Poppy Cottage
50 Old Bells Line o f Road
contact your library. Listed here are Station Road
Kurrajong
some of the main societies you might Burnham Market
NSW 2 7 5 8
also like to write to for further Norfolk PE3 1 8 h a
information.
Australian Society for
UNITED KINGDOM BELOW Horn ofplenty, Craterellus. Microbiology
cornucopioidcs. Unit 23
British Mycological Society
c/oC .A .B . International 20 Commercial Road
Mycological Institute Melbourne
Ferry Lane Victoria 3004
Kew
Surrey T W 9 j a f

127
 A c k n o w l e d g e m e n t s
The publishers and authors would
like to thank the following people for
their help in the production of this
book: Geoffrey Kibby o f the
International Institute of
Entomology, London; Andrew
Broderick o f the Australian Wild
Fungi Research Group, School of
Horticulture, University of Western
Sydney, Hawkesbury, Bourke
Street, Richmond NSW 2753
Australia; Clive Houlder, mushroom
hunter and supplier of specialist
fungi; L’aquila Products, 40
Caledonian Road, London, for
providing the truffles; Valeriejordan
128
and Avril Henley for their help in
typing the manuscript; Mycologue,
35 King Henry’s Road, London, for
providing the knives; Patricia
Michelson, La Fromagerie, 30
Highbury Park, London N5 2AA,
specialist food finder; Taste of the
Wild, 65 Overstrand Mansions,
Prince of Wales Drive, London
SW ll 4EX, suppliers o f wild
mushrooms.
Picture credits
t = top, b = bottom, I = left, r = right
Heather Angel page 103br
TimothyJ. Baroni l i l t , 111b
George Dickson 45t, 45b, 118
Geoffrey Kibby 67tl, 70t, 83, 81tl
George McCarthy 2, 6/7, 15b, 17t,
22/23, 24, 281, 28r, 29b, 34, 35b,
47b, 59t, 59b, 611, 63m, 65b, 73t,
77b, 82tr, 82r, 96/97, 98, 106, 1071,
107r, 113b, 246
Gregory Mueller 31b, 61b, 63b,
66/67, 81b, 821, 93, 115
Oxford Scientific Films (David
Thompson) 29t; (GI Bernard) 30,
311; (Jack Dermid) 105t
BELOW Winter chanterelle, Cantharellus
infundibuliformis.
 T H E

M U SH RO O M
G U I D E AND
IDENTIFIER
• O ver 300 c o lo u r p h o to g ra p h s

• P h o to g ra p h ic A - Z o f th e m o s t c o m m o n ly

fo u n d e d ib le w ild m u s h ro o m s , seen b o th

i n - s i t u a n d in c lo s e -u p i d e n t i f i c a t i o n s h o ts

• A t-a -g la n c e in fo r m a tio n o n h a b ita t,

season, s to rin g a n d c o o k in g h in ts fo r e v e ry

m u sh ro o m

• D e ta ile d g u id e to p ic k in g , d r y in g ,

p re s e rv in g a n d s to r in g w ild

m u sh ro o m s

• C le a r id e n tific a tio n g u id e to p o is o n o u s

a n d i n e d i b l e s p e c ie s , f o r e x t r a s e c u r it y
■;iii

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