3/20/2020 Formulating Aftershave

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Formulating Aftershave
October 14, 2014 Contact Author Luigi Rigano, PhD, Rigano Laboratories, Milan, Italy

Facial shaving is primarily a men’s ritual that may have unexpected skin bene ts. Razors are one of the best ways to physically exfoliate
surface skin cells and remove impurities from open blackheads. Conversely, improper shaving obviously can lead to irritation, removal of
excessive skin layers, small cuts and pseudofolliculitis, i.e., ingrown hairs. Improperly shaved facial skin may also incur reddening,
in ammation, telangiectasia or spider veins, pimples and post-in ammatory hyperpigmentation. Electric shavers induce di erent skin
disequilibrium e ects. eir vibrational energy can increase the local skin temperature, damaging small capillary blood vessels and
increasing in ammation. In contrast, razor shaving has a more super cial impact, although its peeling action in the presence of alkaline
shaving soaps could be too harsh for delicate skin.

For these reasons, consumers o en turn to specially formulated shaving creams and a ershaves to maintain healthy skin. Such products
could be di erentiated based on the type of shaving instrument used, although with either, TEWL values for facial skin increase noticeably.
is column will discuss how to approach formulating a ershaves.

In theory, a ershaves are applied to the shaved face to counteract skin irritation induced by shaving. is was especially true and necessary
with the razors and electric shavers of the past, which were less re ned and harsher on skin. A ershave also allows those who prefer not to
use cologne to wear a slight scent. Since shaving is a normal practice in daily hygiene for most men, it has been used by the cosmetic
industry to expand the male grooming market—and today’s a ershaves have transformed into skin care treatments for the male face.

Male vs. Female Skin

Male skin is unique as it is subject to a testosterone in ux, which in uences sebum production. is higher sebum secretion maintains skin
moisture. erefore, men need moisturizers less frequently than women. Also in men, each facial hair is accompanied by a large
pilosebaceous follicular unit that extends deeply in the dermis. Such a follicular unit accompanies the thin and transparent facial hair in
women, but is much smaller. is results in thicker skin in men, compared with women, which opposes the penetration of UVA rays more
e ciently and thus experiences less collagen ber degradation—in turn, making men’s skin more resistant to photoaging and wrinkles than
women’s. erefore, men need fewer skin care products than women; however, the presence of larger follicular units in the beard areas of
the face necessitates its own special personal care products.

Formulation
Besides soothing and calming irritated skin, a ershaves are expected by consumers to have additional functions, including: freshening
e ects, emolliency, reducing blood ow, toning skin, imparting scent, antibacterial bene ts and preventing folliculitis. Optional e ects
might include anti-wrinkle and skin lightening. e formulator should be cognizant that a ershave is applied on freshly shaved skin, which
maximizes the absorption of ingredients and, consequently, related toxicological risks—i.e., allergy, irritation and systemic absorption.
erefore, sunscreens and excess emulsi ers in general, or ingredients that increase super cial blood ow or are common allergens, should
not be incorporated.

Also, fragrance in modern a ershaves must initially be intense, but mostly disappear quickly. Most men enjoy the sensory e ects of a
scented a ershave but do not want that scent to linger. Colors may be added to the formula as well, to support the sensorial impact of other
ingredients.

ere primarily are three categories of a ershave formulations: uid transparent solutions (splash-on), thick gels, and uid emulsion
lotions. It is rare to nd aerosol or spray pump products, since a ershaves are applied near the eyes. In addition, application by hand o en
is preferred.

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Transparent Solutions
In general, most a ershaves are hydro-alcoholic solutions, with an alcohol content high enough to provide quick evaporation from the face
and a cooling sensation. Alcohol also eliminates the need for preservatives while at the same time reducing the bacterial charge on the face.
Further, it allows for the addition of lipid-soluble soothing ingredients, such as vitamin E, glycyrrhetinic acid or vegetal oils, by increasing
their solubility, without the need for excessive amounts of surfactants. Finally, the right alcohol content aids the dissolution of the formula’s
fragrance.

Allantoin: Many hydrosoluble ingredients are added to transparent a ershave solutions, the most common being allantoin. Allantoin helps
to heal small cuts, speed skin regeneration, and is a well-known skin soother, all at a relatively low cost. However, it has limited solubility in
water (0.57%), which is dramatically decreased by the addition of ethanol (0.2% max solubility) and glycerin (0.15% max solubility). Its
solubility is also strongly temperature-dependent; at cold temperatures, allantoin forms a white precipitate with sharp-needled crystals that
can sting the skin. Since allantoin imparts many advantages, though, the addition of 2% betaine can increase its solubility in water,
improving its application in a ershaves.

Organic acids: e toning action in transparent solution a ershaves is provided by organic acids, usually lactic or citric, that give an
immediate astringent e ect. Additionally, salicylic acid is said to reduce razor bumps, since it performs a keratolytic action. Also, a
soothing action can be obtained with hydrolyzed silk proteins.

Menthol derivatives: Besides the cooling e ect given by the evaporation of alcohol, menthol derivatives such as menthyl pyrrolidone
carboxylate, mentyl lactate, menthone glycerin acetal, etc., are frequently added for a longer-lasting refreshing action. ese derivatives
currently are preferred to simple menthol, which is a potential allergen. Traces of camphor, i.e., < 0.01%, have also been used for a balsamic
sensation.

Hydrotropes: A simple hydro-alcoholic vehicle can e ectively degrease skin, too, so hydrotropes are added, such as glycols, glycerin or
sorbitol. e relative amounts of the water/alcohol/hydrotrope trifecta can be tailored according to the evaporation time required, the
climate in a speci c region, the required nal skin feel, and the presence of other additives that must be easily soluble in the prepared
vehicle.

Preservatives and glycols: As stated, preservatives are not usually added in hydro-alcoholic solutions, unless a completely alcohol-free
a ershave is desired. In this case, cooling can be guaranteed by the menthol derivatives while the vehicle should have good capability to
dissolve ingredients that require an organic solvent, such as complex glycols.

Solubilizers: Fragrances usually do not require additional solubilizers unless very low alcohol concentration is used in their formula. If
they are required, long chain ethoxylated triglycerides or specialized solubilizing blends are used.

Aesthetics: In general, a small amount (≤ 0.3-0.5%) of hydrophilic polymer could be added to a ershaves to provide a special residual feel.
PVP has been used in the past but more modern hydrophilic polymers are now available. Such lm-formers also support the healing action
of the formula and maintain a fair amount of active principles on the skin. Colors are generally added to increase the aesthetic appeal of
transparent formulae, and UV absorbers and chelating agents may be included to increase the light-fastness of the shade to avoid discolor-
ation, since a ershave is o en packaged in transparent bottles.

Formula 1 represents a simple transparent a ershave solution. Besides vegetal extracts, additives may include vitamins, bisabolol, osmotic
protectants, UV lters, quaternary conditioners, etc. In this example, carbomer is dispersed into the alcohol to avoid the formation of
lumps during swelling. Due to the high level of alcohol, this formula does not contain preservatives. e other variables in this formula are:
the alcohol/water ratio, the type and amount of thickener, the neutralizing agent and the sequestering agent.

In industrial preparation, all the liposoluble ingredients such as fragrance are dissolved in alcohol—in anti-explosive equipment—to which
the solution containing the water-soluble ingredients and hydrotropes is slowly added. Propeller mixing is usually adopted to obtain a
whirling motion without releasing excessive energy to the uid. Note that the reverse, i.e., adding the alcohol solution to the water, could
induce insolubilities and precipitate some ingredients. Filtration is not usually necessary, unless vegetal extracts or natural derived
perfumes with high residue are used.

Another vintage, but still valid, example of a conditioning and anti-irritant a ershave lotion is shown in Formula 2, which described the
use of sodium lactate as a moisturizer and niacinamide as a skin strengthener.1

Thick Gels
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e criteria for formulating transparent a ershave gels are the same as for hydro-alcoholic solutions with one exception: additional
thickening to obtain a smooth gel. is is shown in Formula 3, which is similar to Formula 1 but with an increased amount of thickener.
Most transparent thickeners could be used, such as hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl cellulose, as seen in Formula 3, or some grades of
xanthan gum. Taurate copolymers can be used, even with low alcohol content, and some acrylate copolymers or crosspolymers, too. Note
that thickening a formula will also tune the evaporation of its vehicle, reducing the impact of alcohol on the skin, and allowing for a more
delicate skin treatment—although the residual skin feel of the polymer lm a er the solvents have evaporated must be light and non-sticky.

Regarding production, the thickening agent must be dispersed and swelled well before the addition of alcohol, if it is present in the
formula. is is usually accomplished in the water phase but inverse addition into the alcohol is possible if the dispersing equipment is
explosion-proof. Hydrotropes such as glycerin can be used to more easily pre-disperse and swell the polymer. Alcohol-free gel formulations
also can be prepared. ese adopt only water-soluble actives or use solubilizers. In these cases, special glycols having good compatibility
with oil phases, such as isopentyldiol or diglycerol, are suggested.

Fluid Emulsions
Fluid emulsion-type a ershaves generally have low amounts of oil phase. Oils are quickly absorbed by the skin, without leaving any visible
trace. To obtain a skin-friendly treatment, polymeric emulsi ers are generally preferred to monomeric types because they have a much
lower skin irritation potential. For fulid emulsions, all the actives described previously could be used, with an added advantage that some
lipophilic ingredients can be dissolved in the oil phase. Emulsions provide a more nourishing e ect on skin than hydro-alcoholic solutions;
therefore, they are more suitable for anti-aging skin treatments.

Formula 4 shows a simple uid emulsion a ershave.2 Here, lecithin derivatives reinforce the skin barrier and increase the penetration of
the active principles. is formula is simple but has many possible variations, within the given concentration indications. For instance, the
alkali could be arginine; glycerin could be substituted by trehalose or xylitol; re ned shea butter or caprylyl ether could be used instead of
the triglyceride; and so on. An alcohol level below 18-20% of the total water content will not su ciently preserve the formula, so in this
case, the formulator must incorporate preservatives; knowledge of microbial resistance is key when reducing alcohol content.

New Technologies
A ershaves are usually associated with fragrance since they frequently are extensions of cologne lines. And all a ershaves promise
soothing, healing, anti-irritant, moisturizing and cooling functions. However, more recent a ershaves, in emulsion lotion form, also boast
revitalizing actions.

One example is L’Orèal’s Men Expert “Hydra Energetic” a ershave and multi-repairing balm, which claims to fortify skin. Another is
Johnson & Johnson’s Neutrogena Men “Triple Protect Face Lotion” with an SPF 20, which is said to soothe razor irritation and provide sun
protection, and moisturizing and anti-aging bene ts. Also, Elizabeth Grant’s “Grant for Men” a ershave soothing serum aims to protect
skin from daily environmental stress while providing anti-aging bene ts; such as keeping skin so while reducing the appearance of ne
lines and wrinkles.

In the age of high performance male skin care, new actives are being o ered to accelerate repair from shaving cuts, improve skin’s resilience
to environmental stress, i.e., cold and heat, and provide good moisturization. Rahn launched such an activea, combining the osmotic
protectant taurine with skin-strengthening Siberian ginseng extract and cell-boosting factors from algae and lupins.

In the eld of cooling agents, Symrise prepared a menthyl ethylamido oxalate for an extreme sensation of freshness that is fast and long-
lastingb. It is also an odorless liquid, avoiding all interference with perfume notes.

An anti-irritant more recently recommended for emulsion a ershaves is Boswellia serrata extract, which is suggested for sensitive skin.
And nally, a protein material obtained by advanced biotechnology processes copies the structure of spider silkc. It has been introduced as
a skin soothing anti-irritant. Available in di erent grades, it is reported to calm skin irritation and provide a strong moisturizing e ect,
while accelerating skin regeneration and leaving an invisible matte layer on the skin.

References
1. US Patent 4758599, Clear, hydroalcoholic a ershave lotion which moisturizes, conditions and prevents irritation, DC
Minetti, assigned to American Cyanamid Company (Jul 19, 1988)

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2. A er Shave Balm, Rhodia Novecare Asia Paci c Pte. Ltd., Personal Care Magazine, www.personalcaremagazine.com/
FormulationDetails.aspx?Formulation=190 (Accessed Oct. 2, 2014)

is article appeared in the November/December 2014 issue. Find more on this

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Footnotes

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Footnotes [Rigano 129(9)]

a
Cellactive Men (INCI: Water (
aqua
) (and) Glycerin (and) Taurine (and) Phenoxyethanol (and)
Chlorella Vulgaris
/
Lupinus Albus
Protein Ferment (and)
Acanthopanax Senticosus
(Eleuthero) Root Extract), Rahn AG
b
Frescolat X-Cool (INCI: Menthyl Ethylamido Oxalate), Symrise
c
Amsilk (INCI: r-Spider Polypeptide-1), Amsilk

Formulas

Formula 1. Transparent Aftershave Lotion

This formula represents a simple transparent aftershave solution. Besides vegetal extracts,
additives may include vitamins, bisabolol, osmotic protectants, UV filters, quaternary conditioners,
etc.

Formula 2. Conditioning and Anti-irritant Aftershave Lotion

This vintage, but still valid, aftershave lotion uses sodium lactate as a moisturizer and niacinamide
as a skin strengthener.

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Formula 3. Thick Gel Aftershave

The criteria for formulating transparent aftershave gels are the same as for hydro-alcoholic solutions
with one exception: additional thickening to obtain a smooth gel.

Formula 4. Simple Fluid Emulsion Aftershave

Here, lecithin derivatives reinforce the skin barrier and increase the penetration of the active
principles. This formula is simple but has many possible variations.

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