Trichantera gigantea as Feed Supplement

for Swine
What is TRICHANTERA GIGANTEA?

Trichantera gigantea, a fodder tree, also known as Nacedero or Madre de Agua. It was
introduced into the country some years ago from Latin America (Columbia and
Venezuela) and adapts well in local tropical conditions. It can be planted to a wide range
of soil types and elevations up to 1800 meters above sea level. It can be planted at low
density at 6,700 cuttings per hectare. It grows well easily between plantation crops and
produces 40-60 tons per hectare.

WHAT IS THE NUTRIENT CONTENT OF TRICHANTERA GIGANTEA?

The leaves of trichantera is a potential source of protein, varying from 18-22 in dry matter
form and apparently most of this protein are true protein and has a good amino acid
balance (Rosales, et.al, 1989). It has 2.8% Crude Fat, 13.4% Crude Fiber,19.7% Ash, and
37.0% NFE.

HOW IS TRICHANTERA GIGANTEAN PROPAGATED?

Propagation may be done through cuttings. The cuttings measuring 6-8 inches with 2 nodes
are ideal as planting materials. Cuttings can be grown in a plastic bag ( 10 inches x 6
inches) and allowed to grow in three (3) months before it can be transplanted to the field.
However, it can be directly planted to the prepared field.

HOW IS IT FED TO PIGS?

Young leaves can be offered to the pigs in fresh form. It can also be processed into leaf
meal and use of ingredients in mash.
HOW MUCH CAN BE FED TO PIGS AS PARTIAL REPLACEMENT FOR COMMERCIAL
FEEDS?
Trichantera leaves can replace about 20-30% of the commercial diet of growing-finishing
pigs. Six (6) kilograms of fresh leaves consumed by pigs per day is equivalent to 1 kg of
mixed feeds saved.

CAN IT BE GIVEN TO OTHER ANIMALS ASIDE FROM PIGS?

Yes. It can be mixed to poultry diets (ducks, hens, quails, rabbits, and even to large (cattle
and carabaos) and small ruminants (sheep and goats) feeds.

WHAT ARE THE ECONOMIC BENEFITS WHICH CAN BE OBTAINED FROM

SUBSTITUTING TRICHANTERA LEAVES TO COMMERCIAL RATION?
Partial replacement of mixed feeds with Trichantera gigantea give almost the same results
in terms of weight gain, meat quality and income with those pigs given sole mixed feeds.

For more information, please contact:

Alfredo M. Cayabyab, DRDev.

Chief, Research Division/RIARC Manager
DA-SMIARC, Bago Oshiro, Tugbok District, Davao City
Telefax: (082) 293-0109 or (082) 293-0136
E-mail : smiarc@yahoo.com

Reference:
Trichantera Gigantea Publication
Bureau of Animal Industry
Department of Agriculture, Dilliman, Quezon City

Produced by:
Knowledge Management-Farmer Information andTechnology
Service (KMFITS) Center
DA-SMIARC, Bago Oshiro, Mintal, Tugbok Dist., Davao City

Source and Photo: davao.da.gov.ph

How to Start a Vermicomposting Business
Vermicomposting is defined as the production of compost with the use of worms. It
is a fast way to convert organic farm waste into organic fertilizer. It degrades waste
as vermi or earthworm (African night crawler) feed on and digest waste materials.
Vermicomposting results in a better quality product that is produced in only 4-6 weeks
compared to ordinary compost that is produced in 8-12 weeks.

“Vermicompost” or the castings of the earthworms is an excellent soil enhancer and

bioactive fertilizer for organic farming. Earthworms can also be made into feed for fish or
other domesticated animals.
I. Estimated Investment Costs
The initial capitalization in starting a small vermicomposting business on vermicompost
production will depend on the scale from backyard (P5,000) to commercial (P50,000).

A. Tools
Gardening gloves
Strainer/Sifter
Spading fork
Shovel

B. Raw Material/Packaging Material

Vermi (Worms)
Foodwastes, fruit/vegetable trimmings and peelings, dry leaves and stems, animal manure
Vermi Bed or earthworm bed (Dimension: 2x1x0.3m)
Black plastic garbage bags
Plastic sacks (50-kg. capacity)

C. Equipment
Mechanical shredder (optional)
Bicycle-powered sorter (optional)

II. Procedure
1. Collect biodegradable materials such as food wastes, fruit/vegetable trimmings, peelings,
and dry leaves and
stems.

2. Shred/grind the food wastes, fruit/vegetable trimmings, peelings, and dry leaves and
stems.

3. Mix old animal manure and chicken droppings (2 months old) with shredded vegetable
waste. This will improve the nutrient content of the finish product. Do not use fresh manure
for the ammonia produced will give discomfort to the worms.

4. Sun-dry these materials for at least three days and let them undergo partial fermentation.

5. Weigh the shredded grinded materials before putting in the compost bed to determine
ratio of compostables
and worms.

6. Before stocking the earthworms, make sure that all materials in the vermi bed are
prepared.

7. Moisten the bedding with water and cover it with black plastic garbage bag, old sacks,
net, or banana leaves to start “anaerobic process”, which is completed after 1-2 weeks.

8. After the anaerobic process, remove the cover and stock the vermi bed with earthworms.

9. Maintain the vermi beds’ moisture content and temperature through regular checking.
Protect the worms from predatory animals.
10. Vermicompost is harvested when most of the materials have been consumed by the
worms. This takes about
30-45 days depending on environmental and culture conditions.

11. In harvesting, separate the “vermi” from the vermicompost either manually (handpicking)
or using a strainer/sifter.

12. Properly pack vermicompost in sacks and store in a cool dry place.

13. Harvested/sifted vermi from the vermi beds may either be used for the next
vermicomposting cycle or for expansion by constructing additional vermi beds.

Home » How to Start a Vermicomposting Business

How to Start a Vermicomposting Business

BD December 27, 2018 Home Business 3 Comments
Vermicomposting is defined as the production of compost with the use of worms. It is a fast way
to convert organic farm waste into organic fertilizer. It degrades waste as vermi or
earthworm (African night crawler) feed on and digest waste materials. Vermicomposting
results in a better quality product that is produced in only 4-6 weeks compared to ordinary
compost that is produced in 8-12 weeks.

vermicomposting photo
Photo by jeffschuler How to Start a Vermicomposting Business 1

“Vermicompost” or the castings of the earthworms is an excellent soil enhancer and bioactive
fertilizer for organic farming. Earthworms can also be made into feed for fish or other
domesticated animals.

I. Estimated Investment Costs

The initial capitalization in starting a small vermicomposting business on vermicompost

production will depend on the scale from backyard (P5,000) to commercial (P50,000).

A. Tools

Gardening gloves
Strainer/Sifter
Spading fork
Shovel

B. Raw Material/Packaging Material

Vermi (Worms)
Foodwastes, fruit/vegetable trimmings and peelings, dry leaves and stems, animal manure
Vermi Bed or earthworm bed (Dimension: 2x1x0.3m)
Black plastic garbage bags
Plastic sacks (50-kg. capacity)

C. Equipment

Mechanical shredder (optional)

Bicycle-powered sorter (optional)

II. Procedure

1. Collect biodegradable materials such as food wastes, fruit/vegetable trimmings,

peelings, and dry leaves and stems.

2. Shred/grind the food wastes, fruit/vegetable trimmings, peelings, and dry leaves and
stems.

3. Mix old animal manure and chicken droppings (2 months old) with shredded vegetable
waste. This will improve the nutrient content of the finish product. Do not use fresh
manure for the ammonia produced will give discomfort to the worms.

4. Sun-dry these materials for at least three days and let them undergo partial
fermentation.

5. Weigh the shredded grinded materials before putting in the compost bed to determine
ratio of compostables and worms.

6. Before stocking the earthworms, make sure that all materials in the vermi bed are
prepared.

7. Moisten the bedding with water and cover it with black plastic garbage bag, old sacks,
net, or banana leaves to start “anaerobic process”, which is completed after 1-2 weeks.

8. After the anaerobic process, remove the cover and stock the vermi bed with earthworms.

9. Maintain the vermi beds’ moisture content and temperature through regular checking.
Protect the worms from predatory animals.

10. Vermicompost is harvested when most of the materials have been consumed by the
worms. This takes about 30-45 days depending on environmental and culture conditions.

11. In harvesting, separate the “vermi” from the vermicompost either manually (handpicking)
or using a strainer/sifter.

12. Properly pack vermicompost in sacks and store in a cool dry place.

13. Harvested/sifted vermi from the vermi beds may either be used for the next
vermicomposting cycle or for expansion by constructing additional vermi beds.
 14. The offspring or produce of the initial vermi in the vermi bed can also be sold to would-
be vermicompost producer or to fish pond owner as fish meal.

Did you know that…

 Earthworms are also called “vermi”.
 The “African Nightcrawler” (Eudrilus eugeniae) is the earthworm species suited to be
grown in the Philippines for vermicomposting.
 Vermicast or worm manure is the end-product of the organic matter breakdown by some
species of earthworm.
 Earthworms are hermaphrodite, meaning they have both the male and female sex
organs.
 When sexually mature, worms breed every week and can produce 1-3 young worms.

Assumptions
 1 vermi bed = 12 harvests in a year.
 Vermi bed (Dimension: 2x1x0.3 m.)
 African Night Crawlers is sold at P250/kl.
 Harvesting is done after 30 days.
 150 kilos of biodegradable wastes + 2 kilos of worms = 90 kilos of compost
 Compost sells at P6.00/kl.
 2 kg. of vermi per bed would yield 4 kg. of additional vermi in 4 weeks.

Homemade Liquid Detergent

Liquid detergent is a cleansing agent in liquid form. Making a liquid detergent is easy
for home or commercial use. This is an efficient way to save you from expensive
commercial laundry and liquid detergents and most of all it’s very effective. Most of the
available ingredients can be easily bought in supermarkets or from chemical stores.

In making your own homemade liquid detergent, you will need the following
materials:
Sodium lauryl ether sulfate, or SLES
Sodium chloride or iodized salt
Cocodiethanolamide or CDEA
Ethyl alcohol
Water-soluble dye
Benzalkonium chloride
Degreaser
Fragrance
Distilled or de-ionized water
(All available from chemical stores)
Wooden or plastic ladle
Medium-sized basin
Kitchen scale
Measuring spoons and cups
Gas stove
Pot
330 ml. PET bottles, P5.50/pc. Available at Cachetrade in Cubao, Quezon City.

Procedure in making a Liquid Detergent:

1. Put 1.4 liter of distilled water in a pot and boil the water for 15 minutes. You have to use
distilled water or de-ionized to avoid contaminating the liquid detergent mixture. Tap water
has substances that can cause the mixture to eventually emit a bad odor.

2. While waiting for the mixture to boil, put the SLES (150 grams) and iodized salt (80 g)
into the basin. Mix them thoroughly with the ladle until the iodized salt is completely
dissolved.

3. Once the water has boiled enough and the salt has completely dissolved, gradually pour
the water into the liquid detergent mixture.
Stir. Keep on stirring until the SLES mixture is dissolved. The liquid detergent mixture
becomes foamy when stirred, which means that the SLES is being dissolved.

4. Now add to the mixture the CDEA (60 ml), benzalkonium chloride (0.01 ml), degreaser
(40 ml), and the fragrance (10 ml). Don’t add the water-soluble dye and the ethyl alcohol as
yet. The water-soluble dye (10 g) should first be dissolved in ethyl alcohol (60 ml) before
being added to the mixture. And make sure that the fragrance and dye are properly
matched.

5. After putting in all the chemicals, mix until everything is dissolved. Let the mixture cool
until the bubbles subside. Then add another liter of cool distilled water. Once the mixture
has sufficiently cooled down, the liquid detergent becomes clear. You can now pour the
finished product into the PET bottles. Cap the PET bottles containing the liquid detergent
and set them aside. The yield of the liquid detergent mixture is 2.77 liters. Using 330-ml
bottles, you can produce eight bottles of liquid detergent from it.
Herbal Soap Making Business
Herbal soap is a kind of soap mixed with natural ingredients, juice or extract and vitamins
from medicinal plants, fruits and vegetables. If you’re looking for all-natural herbal soap,
try making these homemade herbal soaps using akapulko, guava, papaya, calamansi,
cucumber, radish, and other medicinal plants. You already have most of the ingredients
in your kitchen or garden. Herbal soaps contain many of the nutrients and essential oils
our skin and body needs to nourish and help strengthen the skin’s natural defenses.
Making your own herbal soaps can also be a profitable business idea. Below are some
herbal soap recipes:

How to make Herbal Soap:

Utensils:
* Plastic pail
* Wooden ladle or bamboo stick
* Glass or cup
* Mortar and pestle
* Cheese cloth or strainer
* Knife
* Chopping board
* Cooking pot (preferably made of clay, enamel, stainless or glass)
* Stove
* Plastic molders

Akapulko and Guava Herbal Soap

How to Prepare a Decoction:
1. Wash the leaves thoroughly and chop or cut in small pieces.
2. Measure 1 glass of chopped fresh leaves and 2 glasses of water.
3. Let it boil for 15 minutes (start timing when the water starts to boil).
4. After 15 minutes, remove from fire and strain in a cheesecloth. Set aside and let it cool.

Materials:
* 1 glass Caustic Soda (NaOH)
* 3 glasses Akapulko or Guava decoction, cooled
* 5 glasses cooking oil
* coloring powder (optional)

Procedure:
1. Prepare the materials and the utensils needed.
2. Measure 1 glass of caustic soda and 3 glasses of Akapulko or Guava decoction and pour
into a plastic pail.
3. Mix well by stirring continuously using a wooden ladle or bamboo stick. Use only one
direction in mixing the mixture. Stir until the caustic soda is dissolved.
4. Pour 5 glasses cooking oil into the mixture.
5. Continue stirring until a consistency of a condensed milk is achieved.
6. Pour the soap mixture into desired plastic molders. Set aside and let it cool to harden.
7. After 4-5 hours, remove the soap from the molder.
8. Allow 30 days of ageing before packing. Label the soaps.

Indications:
* Akapulko leaves – anti-fungal
* Guava leaves – antiseptic for wounds

Kamias, Calamansi, Papaya, Cucumber and Radish Herbal Soaps

Materials:
* 1 glass Caustic Soda (NaOH)
* 3 glasses water
* 5 glasses cooking oil
* 1/2 glass juice or extract

Procedure:
1. Prepare the materials and the utensils needed.
2. Measure 1 glass of caustic soda and 3 glasses of water and pour into a plastic pail.
3. Mix well by stirring continuously using a wooden ladle or bamboo stick. Use only one
direction in mixing the mixture. Stir until the caustic soda is dissolved.
4. Pour 5 glasses cooking oil into the mixture.
5. Continue stirring until a consistency of a condensed milk is achieved and add 1/2 glass of
juice or extract.
6. Pour the soap mixture into desired plastic molders. Set aside and let it cool to harden.
7. After 4-5 hours, remove the soap from the molder.
8. Allow 30 days of ageing before packing. Label the soaps.

Indications:
 Kamias – fruit extract or juice (bleaching soap)
 Calamansi – fruit extract or juice (bleaching soap)
 Cucumber – fruit extract or juice (moisturizer)
 Papaya – extract from fresh leaves (bleaching/moisturizer)
 Radish – extract from the stem (moisturizer)

Reminder:
 Caustic Soda can harm the skin upon contact. Wash immediately with vinegar or anything
sour and then wash it with soap and water.
 Caustic Soda is harmful to health and so, make the necessary precaution. Use mask and
gloves to protect your body.

Carrot Castile Herbal Soap

The Beta Carotene in carrots makes it very good for your skin, the lather is lovely and creamy, and
the orange colour of the soap itself is beautiful.
Ingredients:
1 cup carrot juice;
5 tablespoons lye;
2 cups olive oil 1/2 cup canola oil;
(optional) tiny dried dice of carrot. Cut it as small as possible. When dry it should be like sand grains.
Ann Beck’s Castile Carrot Soap

NOTES:
It’s very important to use rubber gloves and eye protection when using lye. One can hand mix the
soap, but it’s far simpler to use a food processor. The word “trace” means if you drip some soap
from a spoon onto the surface of the batch, it leaves a faint mark. Tracing is less critical if the soap is
made in the processor. With processor soap, the batch should be the consistency of whipping
cream.
Hand mixed soap can separate and take up to two hours or even more of stirring to achieve trace.
Soap must be poured as soon as it has traced. it sets up very quickly.

Never use aluminum utensils or molds. Lye reacts badly with it. stainless steel is fine, as is plastic.
Take care not to allow lye grains to touch Formica countertops (worktops). It will discolor it. It’s best
to measure the lye with the container in the sink.
Method:
1.) measure the carrot juice and place it into a Pyrex cup, of at least two cups capacity. Place the
cup into a sink.
2.) mix the two oils together and barely heat them to 110 degrees F.
3.) Carefully measure the lye and set aside in a glass.
4.) Pour the lye into the carrot juice and stir with a wooden utensil, like a chopstick or a bamboo
skewer, until the lye dissolves. THE liquid/lye combination will have a chemical reaction and will heat
up to about 180 degrees F. EVENTUALLY the juice/lye combination needs to cool to 110 degrees F,
which is just barely discernible to your wrist. YOU can use a thermometer, of course.
5.) when the oil and the lye mixture are both at about 110, pour the oils into the food processor and
add the lye mixture. Process until trace has occurred.
6.) have your molds arranged on a newspaper covered cookie sheet. Pour the soap into the molds.
Cover the molds with lids or with plastic wrap, taking care not to have the lids or wrap touch the
soap.
7.) Put the soap batch in a draftless spot and cover it with a towel to protect the heat that will occur
as the saponification process (the chemical change that creates soap) proceeds. Allow the batch to
remain covered until it has cooled, usually overnight.
At this point, you’ll do your clean up. always protect your eyes and hands during this phase. it’s best
to wash everything in the sink and again in the dishwasher. raw soap would take the hide off of a
rhinoceros.

8.) Uncover the soap, remove the plastic or the lids, and allow the soap to remain in the molds for
(about) 2 days, or until it looks like it is pulling away from the sides of the molds.
9.) unmold the soap, lay it on pencils or chopsticks so that the air can circulate around it. It must cure
for a month before use.
Twenty-Two Carrot Soap
Ingredients:
4 cups carrot juice distilled water;
5 tablespoons lye;
1 1 /4 pounds lard (or 2 cups olive oil, plus 1 /2. cup canola oil)

1.) Place the carrot juice into a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Using a coffee filter, strain the
liquid away from the bright orange “foam”. Reserve the foam and add it to distilled water to make
one cup of liquid.
2.) Follow the rest of the instructions in the above Castile recipe.