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The KITCHEN SINK METHOD...

Slightly re-worded.

STEP by STEP Procedure to...

TUNE SIGHT PINS WINDAGE

and
ARROW REST CENTERSHOT
and
SIDEWAYS NOCK TRAVEL ON THE BOWSTRING
and
BOW DL SETTING.....

THE "KITCHEN SINK" METHOD.

I have a combo method that checks:

a) draw length setting on the bow

b) arrow rest centershot position
c) sight pins windage position
d) top cam/top axle levelling (fix/check sideways nock travel).

STEP 1:

So,
hang a spool of string or any string with a weight on the end,
in front of a target.

Step back 5 feet.

Fire a fletched arrow at the string.
Tweak the sight pins windage a skosh left...a skosh right,
until the fletched arrow TOUCHES or even SPLITS the string material.

You should get this result.

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Then,
we goto the next stage.

Step back 5 feet,

and try again with a bareshaft (arrow with no vanes).

You should get this result.

If you are a RIGHT HANDED shooter

and
the bareshaft misses to the RIGHT of the string...

STEP 2:

Press your bow

and shorten the LEFT SIDE buss cable leg say 1 complete twist
and lengthen the RIGHT SIDE buss cable leg say 1 complete twist
and fire a bareshaft again at the hanging string in front of the target...

the bareshaft point of impact should MOVE CLOSER TO THE STRING...

repeat the shortening of the LEFT SIDE buss cable leg with another complete twist (ADD)
and
repeat the lengthening of the RIGHT SIDE buss cable leg with another complete twist (REMOVE)

STEP 3:

IF THE BARESHAFT POINT OF IMPACT DOES NOT MOVE CLOSER TO THE STRING...
IF THE BARESHAFT POINT OF IMPACT DOES NOT CHANGE...
IF THE BARESHAFT POINT OF IMPACT STAYS OFF TO THE RIGHT...

THEN WE HAVE A DRAW LENGTH PROBLEM....ABSOLUTELY NO QUESTION

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cuz your elbow is too far back

cuz your elbow is behind your head
instead of DIRECTLY behind the arrow...in line behind the arrow

so,
when the elbow is BEHIND YOUR HEAD,
your release forearm is pointed OFF TO THE RIGHT,
and
your release forearm pulls the bowstring sideways (FAMOUS LEFT PAPER TEAR for right handed shooters)
and
when we have a nock left paper tear,
cuz the bowstring is pulled sideways to the LEFT,
cuz your forearm is pointed off to the right,
then...

the bareshaft goes whereever your forearm is pointed

and the bareshaft misses sideways to the RIGHT of the string.

So if STEP 2 (buss cable leg tuning) has ZERO EFFECT,

we must goto

STEP 4.

SHORTEN the bow DL setting.

Now,
you might need to shorten the bow DL setting a complete 1/2 inch (new module).

Now,
you might need to shorten the bow DL setting less than a complete module replacement...

maybe you need to shorten the bow DL setting only 1/8th inch....maybe only 1/4-inch.

HOW do you shorten a bow DL setting in-between module sizes?...less than 1/2-inch?

FIND the bottom of the buss cable (cable with 3 end loops) and REMOVE twists to INCREASE ATA
and the bow DL will shorten. As you continue to UNTWIST the buss cable, the ATA continues to grow
and the bow DL will continue to shorten.

Keep tweaking the buss cable LONGER, until the bareshaft hits the string, like this...
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So,
stay at 5 feet
and fire fletched arrows at the string
and
fire bare shaft arrows at the string
until both fletched and bareshaft hit the string.

When firing fletched arrows at the string (tweak the sight pins windage)...to adjust
when firing bareshafts at the string...work the buss cable (bottom of the buss cable to make LARGE
adjustments for point of impact....missing RIGHT by inches)
when firing bareshafts at the string...work the buss cable legs (shorten left side leg when missing right of the
string by tiny amounts IF YOU ARE a RH shooter).

Soon,
your fletched arrows will be touching the string.

Soon,
your bareshafts will also touch the string.

STEP 5

The final half of MODIFIED FRENCH TUNING.

Goto any CONVENIENT longer distance...anything longer than 5 feet.

Might be 10 feet.
Might be 19 feet.
Might be 14 yards.
Might be 20 yards.
Might be 60 yards.

Of course the LONGER the better,

but even 19 feet is better than nothing.
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Fire fletched arrow groups at a bullseye.

ONLY ADJUST THE ARROW REST, when shooting the convenient LONG RANGE distance.
The goal is to get the arrow group CENTERED around the bullseye.

ARROW GROUP missing LEFT of the bullseye? MOVE arrow rest slightly right.
ARROW GROUP missing RIGHT of the bullseye? MOVE arrow rest slightly left....like driving a car.

TWEAK THE ARROW REST to get the arrow group CENTERED around the LONG DISTANCE bullseye.
Whatever convenient LONG DISTANCE is available to you.

Then,

STEP 6:

Repeat shooting the fletched arrow at the string at 5 FEET.

We want to touch or SPLIT the string.

Might need to MICRO ADJUSt the sight pins windage...this is a fine tuning adjustment.
SPLIT the string fibers at 5 feet. BE PICKY. EACH adjustment we make, we get a tiny bit CLOSER to perfect.

REPEAT STEP 5

LONG RANGE arrow groups at a bullseye.

MICRO adjust the arrow rest to get the arrow group perfectly CENTERED around your bullseye.

REPEAT STEP 6 again.

REPEAT STEP 5 again.

REPEAT STEP 6 again.

REPEAT STEP 5 again.

REPEAT STEP 6 again.

REPEAT STEP 5 again.

You get the idea.

EACH cycle of step 6, then step 5...

maybe the first cycle,

we adjust the sight pins...1/8th-inch
we adjust the arrow rest...1/8th-inch...

and then,
maybe the second cycle,
we adjust the sight pins...1/16th-inch
we adjust the arrow rest...1/16th-inch...

and then,
maybe the third cycle,
we adjust the sight pins...1/32nd-inch
we adjust the arrow rest...1/32nd-inch...

and then,
maybe the 4th cycle,
we adjust the sight pins...1/64th-inch
we adjust the arrow rest...1/64th-inch...

you get the idea.

You decide how many cycles you want to try.

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EACH cycle is a smaller and smaller adjustment.

You decide how TIGHT you want your groups.

Then creep tuning

20 yard target

Horizontal strip of duct tape.

Aim at the top edge.

FIRE 3 arrows at the top edge of the duct tape,

with NORMAL PULLING pressure.

Then,
fire 3 more arrows at the top edge of the duct tape,
but this time,
with HARDER THAN NORMAL pulling pressure.

3 ARROWS hit lower.

3 ARROW hit higher.

This means that the cam starting rotation position

is NOT in the sweet spot.

So,we have to FIND the sweet spot for cam starting rotation position.

We have to FIND the sweet spot for cam starting rotation position,
that provides up with LEVEL nock travel....

which is fancy lingo for

finding the cam starting rotation position,
that provides us with the FLATTEST arrow groups,
with the MINIMUM amount of vertical misses.

So,
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we have TWO CHOICES.

We can make the cam rotate TOWARDS the riser,

we can make the cam rotate AWAY from the riser....

we can make the cam rotate in the direction when we DRAW THE BOW to full draw...
or
we can make the cam rotate in the direction when we LET DOWN THE BOW.

ONE of these directions (ADD or REMOVE a half twist) will make the 6 ARROWS
hit at the same height above the top edge of the duct tape.

SINGLE CAM BOW...

find the cable with 3 end loops

(sometimes called the Buss cable)
(sometimes called the Yoke cable)
(sometimes called the "Y" cable)

find the bottom end loop and try ADDING a half twist or a complete twist
and SEE WHAT HAPPENS.

If things got better,

then,
ADDING half twists is what you want to do,
until you get all 6 ARROWS hitting at the same height above the top edge of the duct tape.

If things got worse,

then,
go the other direction,
REMOVING half twists,
until you get all 6 ARROWS hitting at the same height above the top edge of the duct tape.

HYBRID CAM BOW....

this is a bow with a 3 piece rigging system.

So,
you have a buss cable (cable with 3 end loops)
you have a control cable (cable with 2 end loops)
you have a bowstring.

So,
you have a choice, when CREEP TUNING a hybrid cam bow.

You COULD do the same procedure as the single cam bow,

and only adjust the BUSS CABLE.

I prefer to use the CONTROL CABLE for creep tuning,

cuz
this way, there is LESS effect on the draw length..a much smaller change in draw length,
when CREEP TUNING a hybrid cam bow,
when ADDING or REMOVING the half twist adjustments
to try and get all 6 arrows to HIT at the SAME HEIGHT above the top edge of the duct tape.

TWEAKING the control cable is a DIRECT ADJUSTMENT to the top cam rotation positionon a hybrid
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cam system,
cuz the TOP END of the control cable is attached to a peg on the TOP CAM.

TWEAKING the buss cable is an IN-DIRECT ADJUSTMENT to the top cam rotation position on a hybrid cam
system,
cuz the buss cable only CHANGES the ATA...which in-directly causes the top cam to rotate one way or the
other way.

when you need a LARGE change in the bareshaft point of impact.

If the bareshafts are missing by a SMALL amount,

then,
we can work the yoke cable legs and PULL DOWN on one end of the top axle (add twists to the leg)
and
we can allow the other end of the top axle to RISE (remove twists in the other yoke leg).

So,
to prevent MASSIVE cam lean,
I only recommend a MAX of 2 extra twists on one yoke leg,
and
I only recommend REMOVING a MAX of 2 twists on the other yoke leg.

After you get to this point...

and the bareshaft still needs to move sideways...

then,
we make MEDIUM size adjustments for bareshaft point of impact
with EXTRA TWISTS or REMOVING twists in the bowstring.

Then,
we make LARGE size adjustments for bareshaft point of impact
with a SHORTER or LONGER DL module
or FIXED DL cam.

2.5 twists removed from the BOWSTRING is nothing.

IF you are right handed,

and your bareshafts miss to the LEFT of fletched arrows...

INCREASE the dl length up to 1/4-inch LONGER.

DOUBLE your d-loop length.

TRIPLE your d-loop length.

Take out 10 twists from the top of the bowstring.

Take out 15 twists out from the bottom of the bowstring.

Adjust the twists removed from the bottom of the bowstring,

until your peep sight is pointed STRAIGHT AHEAD.

When making tuning adjustments,

go TOO FAR,
and then backup in small amounts.

If you go forward in tiny steps,

it will require 1,000 tiny steps to get to the SWEET SPOT.
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MAKE sure you get a good stretch across the chest

and pull your elbow back FARTHER than before,
SWING your elbow back behind your head,
to the point where YOU FEEL in line behind the arrow.

If you need to fine tune draw length...

say,
micro-tune your draw length...

a 1/16th inch change

a 1/8th inch change
a 3/16th inch change
a 1/4 inch change...

tweak BOTH ends of the bowstring...

just make sure you make more twists (add or remove) on the bottom of the bowstring.

So,
if you ADD 1 twist on top,
then, try 1.5 twists EXTRA on bottom,
so the peep stays pointed STRAIGHT ahead.

Are you right handed?

So,
first,
with bareshaft missing to the LEFT of the fletched arrow,
we try a MAXIMUM of 2 complete twists, TOP AXLE,
RIGHT SIDE.

So,
STEP 1: try adding a half twist, top axle, RIGHT side.

So,
STEP 2: try adding another half twist, total of 1 twist added, top axle, RIGHT SIDE.

So,
STEP 3: try adding another half twist, total of 1.5 twists added, top axle, RIGHT SIDE.

So,
STEP 4: try adding another half twist, total of 2 twists added, top axle, RIGHT SIDE.

So,
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STEP 5: try REMOVING a half twist, top axle, LEFT SIDE.

So,
STEP 6: try REMOVING another half twist, total of 1 twist REMOVED, top axle, LEFT SIDE.

So,
STEP 7: try REMOVING another half twist, total of 1.5 twists REMOVED, top axle, LEFT SIDE.

So,
STEP 8: try REMOVING another half twist, total of 2 twists REMOVED, top axle, LEFT SIDE.

If after these 8 steps,

the bareshaft continues to miss to the LEFT of fletched arrows,
AND
IF YOU ARE RIGHT HANDED...

then,
we lengthen the bowstring,
by removing a half twist
off both ends of the bowstring.