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Renewing America’s Food Traditions is a beautifully illustrated dramatic call to recognize, celebrate, and conserve the great diversity of foods that gives North America its distinctive culinary identity that reflects our multicultural heritage. It offers us rich natural and cultural histories as well as recipes and folk traditions associated with the rarest food plants and animals in North America. In doing so, it reminds us that what we choose to eat can either conserve or deplete the cornucopia of our continent. To learn more, visit http://www.chelseagreen.com/bookstore/item/renewing_americas_food_traditions:paperback.
Renewing America’s Food Traditions is a beautifully illustrated dramatic call to recognize, celebrate, and conserve the great diversity of foods that gives North America its distinctive culinary identity that reflects our multicultural heritage. It offers us rich natural and cultural histories as well as recipes and folk traditions associated with the rarest food plants and animals in North America. In doing so, it reminds us that what we choose to eat can either conserve or deplete the cornucopia of our continent. To learn more, visit http://www.chelseagreen.com/bookstore/item/renewing_americas_food_traditions:paperback.
Renewing America’s Food Traditions is a beautifully illustrated dramatic call to recognize, celebrate, and conserve the great diversity of foods that gives North America its distinctive culinary identity that reflects our multicultural heritage. It offers us rich natural and cultural histories as well as recipes and folk traditions associated with the rarest food plants and animals in North America. In doing so, it reminds us that what we choose to eat can either conserve or deplete the cornucopia of our continent. To learn more, visit http://www.chelseagreen.com/bookstore/item/renewing_americas_food_traditions:paperback.
Jack’s Copperclad Jerusalem Artichoke in fields and gardens.
At least fifteen tribes boiled or
roasted the tubers, sometimes eating them whole but other times mixing them with acorn meal to fry into Perhaps the only vegetable native to North America that range, the historic heirloom cultivars such as cakes. We can assume that some prehistoric tribes that has achieved worldwide acclaim, the Jerusalem Jack’s Copperclad have grown increasingly rare. This intentionally transplanted and tended the tubers, for artichoke is more appreciated overseas than in its variety has plump but knobby tubers whose skins Samuel de Champlain saw them growing in Native center of origin in south-central Canada and the are colored a lovely dark copper or rose-purple. The American gardens at Mallebarre on Nauset Harbor midwestern United States. Its estrangement from tubers themselves have an excellent, subtly sweet in Massachusetts on July 21, 1605. Botanist Asa Gray its homeland is perhaps best indicated by the fact flavor and are found at the base of ten-foot stalks discerned that the Jerusalem artichoke originated that this openauk or “Canada potato” is now called that bear aboveground a bright display of sunflow- west of the Mississippi watershed and that it was Jerusalem artichoke, even though it is neither an ers. Jack’s Copperclad is commercially available only probably carried and transplanted eastward through artichoke nor native to Jerusalem. Worse yet, in from Horus Botanicals in Salem, Arkansas, and is Native American trade. However, most indigenous the last half century, hundreds of heirloom variet- endangered. Many other heirlooms of the same ilk harvesters within its natural range had no need ies that were carefully selected by American family are literally lost within the rural-suburban contin- to intentionally plant it because their practice of farmers and gardeners for their distinctive flavors, uum, no longer known by their historic names nor “digging-stick cultivation” enhanced the productivity textures, and hardiness have been all but replaced by celebrated for their unique qualities. of each tuber patch. Over time, there may even have the sunchoke, a single sterile hybrid made between And yet this perennial tuber-bearing sunflower been selection for larger tubers or different shapes sunflowers and Jerusalem artichokes. (Helianthus tuberosus) was once one of the most or flavors. Various “wild” populations of Jerusalem Remnant wild populations can be found in forty- widely used root vegetables in North America, artichokes have been reported to tolerate freez- four states and seven Canadian provinces, but within whether wild-harvested or intentionally cultivated ing temperatures, waterlogging, acidity, alkalinity,
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different photoperiods, sand, shade, lateritic soils, virus, bacteria, or weeds. One of the first written reports about this root vegetable came from Thomas Hariot, during the second expedition to establish the first “English plantation” on Roanoke Island in 1585:
Openauk are a kind of roots of round forme,
some of the bignes of walnuts, some far greater, which are found in moist & marish ground growing many together one by another in ropes, or as thogh they were fastened with a string. Being boiled or sodden they are a very good meate.
By 1605, the explorer Samuel de Champlain had
enjoyed their flavor frequently enough to want to send some of the tubers back from Canada to his native France. It may be that he had already gathered David Cavagnaro
or described this plant in Massachusetts as well, for
a book published in 1609 mentions that this vege- high, sometimes sixteene foot high or higher John Goodyer, who had pioneered their cultivation table was known in France even before Champlain . . . producing from the increase of one root, by English-speaking farmers in the 1600s, was more had initiated his exploration of Canada. Among the thirty, forty, or fifty in number or more. to the point: “In my judgement, which way soever French, the vegetable that Champlain likened to an they be drest and eaten they stir up and cause a filthie artichoke became known as topinambour—a country Back in the United States, it was at least appreci- loathesome stinking winde with the bodie, thereby bumpkin—while the English settling north of the St. ated as a survival food, as this April 9, 1805, entry causing the belly to bee much pained and tormented, Lawrence River claimed it as the Canada potato. from the journals of Meriwether Lewis indicates: and are a meat more fit for swine, than men.” Exactly when and how the term Jerusalem became The source of that “windiness” may also be the added to this artichoke’s name remains a mystery. When we halted for dinner [Sacagawea] tubers’ greatest asset for modern consumers, for it One explanation is that once this root became a staple busied herself in serching for the wild arti- is due to the slow release of inulin, a complex poly- food for the Pilgrims, they praised it as the new food chokes . . . this operation she performed saccharide they contain. Slowly digested and broken that would nourish a “new Jerusalem.” Alternative by penetrating the earth with a sharp stick down into fructose and other carbohydrates, inulin explanations are that “Jerusalem” is simply a mispro- about some small collections of drift wood. serves to protect those who suffer from diabetes from nunciation of the Italian word for sunflower, girasol, Her labour soon proved successful, and she dramatic changes in blood sugar levels and from or of the Dutch place-name Ter-Heusen, a farm village procurrd a good quantity of these roots. pancreatic stress. in Holland where many of these tubers were planted. Fortunately, the Jerusalem artichoke still had a In any case, the Jerusalem artichoke or topinambour And yet other American observers gave the plant few champions, including none other than George has met with three centuries of acclaim in Europe, decidedly mixed reviews. In 1681, Reverend John Washington and Thomas Jefferson. In a May 2, 1817, and many of the most widely propagated cultivars Banister of Virginia was already discounting its letter to an agricultural magazine editor, Tristan come from there. The 1833 edition of Gerard’s Herball value in his Natural History, claiming that “the Dalton, Jefferson favored this native tuber (or intro- underscores how prolific this plant was in the eyes of Batatas Canadensis, or Jerusalem Artichokes are duced varieties of the same) as a winter feed for live- the Europeans: little esteemed of here, yet it is sometimes used to stock: “With respect to field culture of vegetables for brew with when corn is scarce.” In 1768, Miller wrote cattle, instead of the carrot and potato recommended This wonderfull increasing plant hath grow- this disparaging note in The Gardeners Dictionary: by yourself, and the magazine, and the beet by others, ing up from one root, one, sometimes two, “The Jerusalem Artichokes . . . are very subject to we find the Jerusalem artichoke best for winter.” three or more round green rough hairy trouble the belly by their windy quality, which hath During the decades immediately following straked stalks, commonly about twelve foot brought them almost in decline.” Jefferson’s promotion of it, a good number of vari-
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eties of the Jerusalem artichoke were selected, and these revived interest in the vegetable among chefs. South Carolina Chow-Chow with In the 1847 cookbook The Carolina Housewife, there Jack’s Copperclad Artichokes are instructions for pickling this kind of artichoke, and much the same recipe has persisted in the 1 gallon Jack’s Copperclad Jerusalem artichokes mince the tomatoes, peppers, celery, and onions, Carolinas to this day. In his 1865 classic, Field and 1 cup sea salt then cover them with water and the remaining Garden Vegetables of America, Fearing Burr noted at 1 quart (4 large) green tomatoes, coarsely ¾ cup salt in a second large bowl. Drain the arti- least four exceptionally flavorful varieties that had chopped chokes, rinse them in cold water, then chop them been developed by backyard plant selection: 6 large red bell peppers coarsely. Drain the salt water from the minced 6 large green bell peppers vegetables but reserve this liquid. For a long period there was but a single 1 large rib pale green celery Next, pour the apple cider vinegar into a large variety cultivated, or even known. Recent 1 quart (8 medium) Vidalia onions saucepan and combine the flour, turmeric, and experiments in the use of seeds as a means 2 quarts apple cider vinegar sugar with the vinegar. Beat this mix with a of propagation have developed new kinds, ½ cup bleached wheat flour whisk, then add the dry mustard and the mustard, varying greatly in their size, form, and color, 3 tablespoons turmeric dill, and celery seeds. Bring this mixture to a possessing little of the watery and insipid 6 cups turbinado sugar boil. Add the vegetables and bring all the ingre- character of the heretofore grown Jerusalem ½ cup dry mustard dients back to a boil. Cook only 1 minute, stir- Artichoke, and nearly or quite equaling the 5 tablespoons mustard seed ring vigorously so as not to let anything stick to potato in flavor and excellence. 2 tablespoons dill seed the pan. Finally, add the chopped artichokes and 2 tablespoons celery seed stir them in, but don’t let them cook any further. From the early nineteenth through the early twen- Pour the reserved liquid from the vegetables tieth century, American gardeners and horticulturists Scrub the artichokes with a brush to remove over the artichokes. Spoon the artichokes and selected and named over 1,300 forms, heirloom stocks, any spots. Place them in a large glass bowl and liquid into hot, clean pint jars, filling them up to and unusual strains of the Jerusalem artichokes. Only cover them with cold water mixed with ¼ cup a quarter inch from the top. Seal at once. Yields 200 of these heirlooms have survived into the twenty- salt. Refrigerate overnight. The next morning, 12 pints. first century, and most of them are now available to the public only on a limited basis from experimental farms, botanical gardens, and germplasm reposito- ries. Aside from the sterile hybrid sunchoke, which Further Reading can be propagated vegetatively only by replanting Ammundsen, C. Rene. “Jerusalem Artichoke.” In the “Homestead and Garden” category of the “This and That” tubers, there are only ten cultivars of the Jerusalem website. Accessed April 22, 2007, from www.fogwhistle.ca/thisandthat/artichoke.htm. artichoke that have persisted to any extent in garden Boswell, Victor. R. Studies of the Culture and Certain Varieties of the Jerusalem Artichoke. Washington, D.C.: U.S. catalogs of the United States and Canada: Boston Department of Agriculture, 1936. Red, Dwarf Sunray, French White Improved, Fuseau, Burr, Fearing Jr. Field and Garden Vegetables of America. Boston: J. E. Tilton, 1865. Golden Nugget, Jack’s Copperclad, Jerusalem White, Champlain, Samuel D. The Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, 1604–1616. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1922. Mammoth French White, Mulles Rose, Stampede, Dabney, Joseph E. Smokehouse Ham, Spoon Bread, and Scuppernong Wine: The Folklore and Art of Southern Appalachian Cooking. Nashville: Cumberland House Publishing, 1998. Sutton’s New White, and Veitch’s Improved Long Gray, Asa. Manual of the Botany of the Northern United States. New York: Ivison, Blakeman and Company, 1890. White. Three are of particular interest as American Hariot, Thomas. 1588 Narrative of the First English Plantation of Virginia. London: B. Quatrich, 1893 (reprint). heirlooms: the Boston Red, which has large knobby Miller, Phillip. The Gardener’s Dictionary. London: privately printed, 1768. tubers with rose-red skin; Jack’s Copperclad, which Moulton, Gary E., ed. The Definitive Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. Lincoln: University of Nebraska has dark coppery purple, excellent-tasting tubers; and Press, 2002. the Mulles Rose, which has large white tubers with Rutledge, Sarah. The Carolina Housewife, or House and Home, by a Lady of Charleston. Charleston, South Carolina: rose-purple-fleshed eyes. All of these may now be W. R. Babcock, 1847. Reprinted in Columbia: University of South Carolina Press, 1969. considered endangered because of the predominance Shoemaker, D. N. The Jerusalem Artichoke as a Crop Plant. USDA Technical Bulletin no. 33. Washington, D.C.: U.S. of sterile hybrid sunchokes in the marketplace. Government Printing Office, 1927. The recipe included here is adapted from Joseph Waters, L., D. Davis, J. Riehle, and M. Weins. Jerusalem Artichoke Trials. St. Paul: Department of Horticulture, Earl Dabney’s fine collection, Smokehouse Ham, University of Minnesota, 1981. Spoon Bread, and Scuppernong Wine. Chestnut Nation / 73
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