A Horizontal-Necked Shirt from Marques, Peru

Author(s): Louis M. Stumer and A. H. Gayton

Source: American Antiquity, Vol. 24, No. 2 (Oct., 1958), pp. 181-182
Published by: Cambridge University Press
Stable URL: https://www.jstor.org/stable/277480
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 FACTS AND COMMENTS 181

COTTER,
COTTER,JOHN
JOHN A HORIZONTAL-NECKED SHIRT
1952
1952 The
TheMangum
Mangum Plate.
Plate.
American
American
Antiquity,
Antiquity,
Vol. 18,
Vol.
No.18,
1, No. 1,
pp.
pp. 65-8.
65-8.Salt
SaltLake
Lake
City.
City.
FROM MARQUES, PERU
EMMONS,
EMMONS,W.
W.H.H.
AND
AND
F. B.
F. LANEY
B. LANEY Shortly after an article describing a Peruvian shirt with
1926 Geology and Ore Deposits of the Ducktown Mining Dis- a horizontal neck slot was published (Gayton 1955), a
trict, Tennessee. United States Geological Survey, Profes- specimen with a similar aperture was unearthed at La
sional Paper 139. Washington.
Capilla cemetery on the Hacienda Marques. This speci-
FOWKE, GERARD men is sufficiently different from the other to warrant a
1910 Antiquities of Central and Southeastern Missouri. Bureau brief report. The archaeological data are provided by
of American Ethnology, Bulletin 37. Washington. Stumer, the textile data by Gayton.
HEINRICH, CARL La Capilla cemetery is on the Hacienda Marques at
1895 The Ducktown Ore Deposits and the Treatment of the the mouth of the Chillon River, some 12 km. north of
Ducktown Copper Ores. American Institute of Mining Lima. La Capilla lies at the extreme northwest corner
Engineering, Transactions, Vol. 25, pp. 173-245. New York.
of the irrigable lands of the Chill6n and is the most exten-
KNEBERG, MADELINE sive of the cemetery sites which dot the Hacienda Mar-
1952 The Tennessee Area. In Archeology of Eastern United ques. It is the site which A. L. Kroeber excavated during
States, edited by J. B. Griffin, pp. 190-8. University of
his 1925-26 expedition (Kroeber 1954: 3, 10, 11, 27) and
Chicago Press.
from which came some of the cadavers examined by
MARTIN, P. S., G. I. QUIMBY, AND DONALD COLLIER Marshall T. Newman (1947).
1947 Indians Before Columbus. University of Chicago Press. The cemetery occupies an area approximately 500
MOORE, C. B. meters square, and in recent times the superficial graves,
1905 Certain Aboriginal Remains of the Black Warrior River. which are practically all of Chancay culture, have been
Journal of the Academy of Natural Sciences of Philadelphia, thoroughly looted. However, there is a stratum of graves
Vol. 13, 2nd series, Part II, pp. 125-244. Philadelphia.
underlying these in most parts of the cemetery which
MOOREHEAD, W. K. has been overlooked.
1932 Exploration of the Etowah Site in Georgia. Etowah Papers. Stumer (1954) had examined this cemetery during the
Phillips Academy. Yale University Press, New Haven. surface survey which preceded the Marques excavations
OLcorr, E. E. of 1952-53, but during preparation of the final report
1875 The Ore Knob Copper Mine and Reduction Works, Ashe returned to La Capilla to recheck the underlying stratum
County, N. C. American Institute of Mining Engineering, of graves. It was then that the shirt described here was
Transactions, Vol. 3, pp. 391-9. New York.
encountered folded up as part of the inner wrappings of
ORR, K. G. a funerary bundle containing the body of an adult male,
1952 Survey of Caddoan Area Archeology. In Archeology of apparently in his forties.
Eastern United States, edited by J. B. Griffin, pp. 239-55. The grave, oriented north-south, was roughly rectangu-
University of Chicago Press.
lar in shape, about 80 by 85 cm. in size and 1.68 m. deep.
Ross, C. S. There was a roof of willow logs and cane which had
1935 Origin of the Copper Deposits of the Ducktown Type in
collapsed from the weight of overlying rubble. Beside the
the Southern Appalachian Region. United States Geological
funerary bundle of the adult, there were simply wrapped
Survey, Professional Paper 179. Washington.
bodies of 2 small children. As was usual in the La Ca-
SEARS, W. H. pilla graves Stumer excavated, the bundle containing the
1952 Ceramic Development in the South Appalachian Province.
shirt was not topped by a funerary mask.
American Antiquity, Vol. 18, No. 2, pp. 101-10. Salt Lake
Grave contents were simple and undifferentiated from
City.
other graves in the series. The contents were: 2 bundles
STITCH, J. N. of wooden digging tools, each containing some 7 exam-
1953 Spectrographic Identification of Mineral Grains. United ples; 11 gourds, 4 of which had been repaired; and 4
States Geological Survey Circular 234. Washington. pottery specimens. One of these was a collared blackware
WARREN, H. V. AND R. M. THOMPSON jar, 42 by 23 cm. Another was a redware bowl, 15 by 12
1944 Minor Elements in Gold. Economic Geology, Vol. 39, pp.
cm., with a rim decoration of black, white, and red chev-
457-71. Urbana.
rons of Tiahuanacoid III style (Late Ancon I style; Strong
WATSON, V. D. 1925, P1. 43). The other 2 vessels were simple, fire-black.
ened, collared utility ollas of the usual coarse redware
1950 The Wulfing Plates-Products of Prehistoric Americans.
Washington University Studies, New Series, Socialtypeand of the Central Coast in the Late periods.
Philosophical Sciences, No. 8. Washington University, St.
From the grave associations and observations of the
Louis.

VERNON J. HURST
other graves in the series, Stumer places the La Capilla
Georgia Geologic Survey shirt chronologically as Late Tiahuanacoid III or, at the
Atlanta, Ga. very latest, very early Chancay. Quite definitely, it seems
to date from that twilight area where the last vestiges of
LEwIS H. LARSON, JR. Coast Tiahuanaco are disappearing to be replaced by the
Cartersville, Ga. pre-Inca Chancay style of the Central Coast. In July
April 1957 1957, excavating again at La Capilla, Stumer encountered

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182 AMERICAN ANTIQUITY [ XXIV, 2, 1958

architectural
architectural remains adjacent
remains
to the graveadjacent
from which
have
have to
the the
usual
the grave
vertical
usual from
apertures
vertical which
(compare apertur
Reiss and
the
theshirtshirt
came. Classic
came.
ChancayClassic
graves are superimposed
ChancayStiibel
Stiibel graves
1880-87, P1. 35, are
1880-87, superimposed
Nos. 3,
P1.4; P1.35,
36, Nos.
Nos.3, 5, 3,
6). The
4
on
onthe the
architecture;
architecture;
the lower grave group,
the including
lower construction
construction
that grave plan and appearance
group, plan and
of theappearanc
including La Capilla
thatshirt
of
ofthe the
shirt, are
shirt,
beneath the
are architecture.
beneath This clearly
theworn
when
when architecture.
worn
are shownarein Figure
shownThisin
1. clearly
Figure
confirms
confirms the datingthe
of thedating
shirt and theofassociated
the arti-shirt and the associated arti-
facts and ceramics as Tiahuanacoid III. GAYTON, A. H.
The La Capilla shirt is distinguished not only by its 1955 A New Type of Ancient Peruvian Shirt. American Antiq-
horizontal neck slot but by 2 hand openings in the top uity, Vol. 20, No. 3, pp. 263-70. Salt Lake City.
edge of the garment. It is constructed of 2 identical long,
KROEBER, A. L.
narrow, rectangular webs seamed together at the narrow
1954 Proto-Lima, A Middle Period Culture of Peru. Fieldiana:
ends which form the wholly closed sides (Fig. 1). The
Anthropology, Vol. 44, No. 1. Chicago Natural History
upper edges of these paired, 4-selvage webs are stitched Museum, Chicago.
together, beginning a few centimeters in from each end
and continuing toward the center where an openingNEWMAN,
is M. T.
left. Thus there are 2 small transverse slots for the hands 1947 Indian Skeletal Material from the Central Coast of Peru.
Papers of the Peabody Museum, Harvard University, Vol.
and a larger one for the neck in the upper horizontal
27, No. 4. Cambridge.
edge of the shirt. The fabrics are of natural, creamy cot-
ton, in a medium-coarse, warpface weave. No color REISS,
or W., AND A. STOBEL
embellishment has been added. The garment appears to1880-87 The Necropolis of Anc6n. A. Asher, Berlin.
be purely utilitarian; soil and wear are evident.
STRONG, W. D.
The shirt is 132 cm. wide (warp length) and 46 cm.
1925 The Uhle Pottery Collections from Anc6n. University of
deep (weft width); the hand slots are 10.2 cm., and the California Publications in American Archaeology and Eth-
neck slot 33 cm. The warp yarns are 1-ply, S-spun, nology, Vol. 21, No. 4. Berkeley.
slubbed; the weft yarns are 2-ply, initial spin Z, final S;
STUMER, L. M.
the wefts are about twice the diameter of the warps. The
1954 The Chill6n Valley of Peru: Excavation and Reconnais-
thread count average is 19 warps to 7 wefts per square sance, 1952-1953. Archaeology, Vol. 7, No. 3, pp. 171-8; No.
centimeter. The seam stitching is coarse whipping with 4, pp. 220-8. Brattleboro.
paired threads similar to the weft yarns. Workmanship in
LOUIS M. STUMER
weaving is fair, but there are slight variations in both
thread count and cloth width. One web has 3 extra wefts Universidad Nacional Mayor
de San Marcos de Lima
toward 1 end where evening-up was attempted as the
weaver approached the still obvious closure of the weav- A. H. GAYTON
ing. Both webs have short lengths of coarse cotton yarn University of California
(3-ply, final spin Z) run into the cloth a short distance Berkeley
up and in from a lower corner. These do not match in June, 1957
position; their ends are broken off, and their purpose
unknown. The opposite corner where similar yarns may
have been is destroyed.
A MONOLITHIC AX FROM ALABAMA
The most interesting feature of the shirt is its hand
apertures. Unlike the Ferdon shirt (Gayton 1955, Fig. 77) An elaborately carved fragment of metamorphosed
schist was sent to me not long ago. I was told that it wa
which has folded fabric on one side, thus precluding an
plowed up in a field near Fosters, Alabama, which i
end opening for the hand, the La Capilla shirt is seamed
on both sides where openings could have been left. approximately 7 miles north of Moundville State Park and
Leaving hand or arm slots in the vertical side seamsthus
is well within the sphere of influence of that cultura
center. The specimen is owned by James Willard Dorroh
standard Peruvian practice, as it is the world over. The
wide, short dimensions of the shirt are comparable of to Buhl, Alabama.
those of certain shirts from Anc6n, although the latter The object constitutes the major portion of a very
beautifully carved monolithic ceremonial ax (Fig. 1
superficially resembling one in the Peabody Museum a
Yale University (Cat. No. 3701) which has been described
by Saville (1916: 5) and MacCurdy (1916: 301). The
5 Yale specimen shows the figure of a man draped back
ward over the upper end of the handle. The well carved

i SX
head rests upside down touching the butt end of the
projecting blade. The newly recovered specimen has the
arpP - seam ~ j upper end of the handle terminating in a full face view
of a man whose face and ears are exposed leaving the
head and
FIG. 1 [Stumer and Gayton]. neck portions
The covered with
La Capilla some sort
shirt of a tigh
con-
fitting tunic
struction and its appearance whenor covering.
worn. The rendition of the facia

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