Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
com/2010/barrel-aged-cocktails/
Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Inspired by a visit to see Tony Conigliaro at the unnamed bar at 69 Colebrooke Row in London last fall, where
Manhattans are aged in glass vessels to sublime and subtle effect, the barrel aged cocktails I’ve been serving at Clyde
Common this year are a decidedly American curiosity.
The rub of aging cocktails in a glass bottle is that the whole premise is built upon subtlety, as we know that spirits aged in
glass or steel do so at an unremarkable pace. Being from the United States, where – as everyone is aware – bigger equals
better, I pondered the following question: what if you could prepare a large batch of a single, spirit-driven cocktail and age
it in a used oak barrel?
A hundred some-odd dollars in liquor later, I was nervously pouring a gallon of pre-batched rye Manhattans into a small,
used oak cask whose previous contents were a gallon Madeira wine. I plugged the barrel and sat back in anxious
anticipation; if the experiment was a success I’d have a delicious cocktail to share at the bar – if it was a failure then I’d be
pouring the restaurant’s money down the floor drain.
Over the next several weeks I popped open the barrel to test my little concoction until I stumbled upon the magic mark at
five-to-six weeks. And there it was, lying beautifully on the the finish: a soft blend of oak, wine, caramel and char. That
first batch sold out in a matter of days and I was left with a compelling need to push the process even further.
Barrels
I’ve been ordering my used whiskey barrels from Tuthilltown Spirits in Gardiner, New York. They sell a three-gallon
charred oak barrel that previously held their lovely whiskey, for around only $75.
Now, three gallons of Negroni might not be practical for the home enthusiast, but the average bar or restaurant should be
able to afford that sort of quantity quite easily. For those of you trying this at home, try searching the internet for
one-gallon charred oak casks (stay away from the fancy lacquered kind meant for display in dens and 1980s wine bars)
and be sure to let us know what you find in the comments section below.
We procured a small number of used whiskey casks from the Tuthilltown distillery and proceeded to fill them with a large
batch of Negronis; and that’s when the magic of barrel aged cocktails grabbed our attention. After six weeks in the
bourbon barrel, our Negroni emerged a rare beauty. The sweet vermouth so slightly oxidized, the color paler and rosier
than the original, the mid-palate softly mingled with whiskey, the finish long and lingering with oak tannins. We knew we
were on to something unique and immediately made plans to take the cask aging program to the next level.
Negronis are now prepared in five-gallon batches and poured into multiple bourbon barrels. Robert Hess’ ubiquitous
Trident cocktail is currently resting inside single-malt barrels. The El Presidente (à la Matt Robold), Deshlers, Remember
the Maines, they’re all receiving the oaked treatment in a little storage room in the basement of the restaurant that I refer to
as my “office”.
Once the cocktail is aged long enough for my taste, I then drain the bottle, straining out any charred bits of wood, and
bottle the contents for use by my bartenders. To order, the cocktail is then measured out and poured over ice in a mixing
glass, stirred, strained into a cocktail glass, and then garnished with the appropriate garnish. It’s quick and simple, as all of
the real work has already been done by the barrel.
Anyway, on to the recipes. As simple as it seems to do, I figured not everyone is going to want to do the math to get started
on some of these recipes, so here are a few I’ve figured out:
Negroni
Makes Three Gallons
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel. Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour
into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Manhattan
Makes Three Gallons
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel (I prefer a barrel that has previously stored
sherry, Madeira, or port wine). Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Trident
Makes Three Gallons
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel (I prefer a used single malt barrel). Let rest
for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
And be sure to check out this video of the barrel-aged cocktail process, courtesy of our friends Grant Achatz, Craig
Schoettler and Josh Habiger at Alinea in Chicago:
Comments
61 Responses to “Barrel Aged Cocktails”
Delicious.
Think there would be any advantage keeping the vermouth mix in cold storage during the aging process?
Hey Jeff,
I´ve heard amazing things about your barrel aged drinks.
What puzzles me the most is: how can the vermouth stand the oxidation and flavor changes that naturally occur after
opening the bottles?
How long can they stay in the glass bottles? Do they still change after time or the potent mix helps to preserve the
flavors?
Can wait to try aging cocktails in native Brazilian wood barrels I can easily find around here!
Cheers,
I guess it begs the question when will spirit companies come to you to age their products in barrels that used to
contain cocktails? negroni finished malts?
We had your aged Manhattan this weekend– thanks for the great drinks. (And thanks to Andrew for the excellent
mixing.)
Tony/Ryan – I’ve found that the oxidization on the vermouth is so gentle during the aging process, most likely due
to the fact that it’s mixed with spirits, that the effect is more positive than negative. Think of it as a sort of controlled
oxidization.
Does it make a difference as to what was originally aged (or most recently aged) in the barrel prior to aging the
chosen cocktail? What about brand new charred oak barrels? What about uncharred oak?
Other types of barrel woods?
I loved the Madeira barrel aged Manhattan, I have experimented with Glass aged Manhattans and they didn’t turn
near as smooth as yours. It would be nice to have the marinated cherry recipe, you used in that Manhattan.
Thank you for your innovative ideas to take classic cocktails to the next level.
Jimimac – it certainly does matter what the barrel has been up to prior to aging the cocktail. Experimentation and a
little bit of knowledge are key here… as is a healthy sense of adventure. Thanks for the kudos.
The common thread in the cocktails you’ve chose to age seems to be the presence of a either vermouth or sherry –
Have you considered barrel aging a sazerac or old-fashioned? You’d think the presence of the sugar/bitters in the
barrel would be enough to differentiate the process from a straight “finishing cask” deal, and maybe result in
something totally different, as the Negronis/Manhattans have. The advantage/disadvantage is you could theoretically
age the thing for a lot longer.
Also, Angus, thats pretty brilliant. Though I suppose theres nothing stopping Jeffrey from filling up a used
Manhattan barrel with some single malt and doing it on his own.
How are you finding the process of cleaning out the barrels? I’ve switched to wood chips several years ago due to
my fear that I never really could tell if the barrel was clean. The down side to wood chips is the initial expense of
“flavouring” them with wines or whiskey first, the plus side being that I could visually see if I had any growth left
after cleaning.
Any barrel cleaning secrets you care to share?
This is a totally neat idea – I have to try it out. Especially given that you have optimized two of my favorite drinks:
the Negroni and the Manhattan.
A few questions: Is there a dependence between the volume made and aging ? I found a place online where I can get
1 liter charred oak. This seems like a reasonable amount for me to experiment on at home.
Also, if one ages in a bottle – just how long are we talking about here.
(I’ve been following your blog and twitter for a while now, decided to delurk on this post :-) )
how did you seal the barrel after pouring the cocktail in it? Tuthilltown says they do not provide stoppers.
Hi Jeff – amazing sounding drinks – have you reused your barrels after each batch? given the short resting time how
much change do you think is happening in the barrel?
thanks
I’ve had the pleasure of enjoying one of Jeffrey’s barrel aged rye Manhattans and it was amazing.
Barrel cleaning raises an interesting point. We initially purchased so many barrels that it hasn’t come up yet (the
barrels have only been re-used once so far) but I’d be curious to hear from other barrel users.
The Negroni and Manhattan that I got to try this weekend were mindblowingly good.
Jaime: With your barrels did you re-char them after use? I would think that cleaning with water and some sort of
simple cleanser, followed by the torch ought to do the trick.
I’m also wondering how many uses per barrel are possible – both spirit and cocktail-wise.
I know that most rums barrels are used bourbon barrels (used once) and they are typically used 3 times for rum
before being considered spent and then discarded.
I wonder if a barrel that is too spent for spirits might still work for cocktails.
This is such a simple yet brilliant evolutionary step in the world of cocktails, and man are those drinks delicious.
Matt:
I didn’t re-char the barrel as I have no means of taking them apart and putting them back together. I simply used a
food safe cleanser used to clean out carboys along with sulphur.
I did discover after a while (3 or so uses) that I was unable to get the barrel completely clean, which is why I
switched to using self-flavoured wood chips. Much easier to clean and about the same price as a barrel after you
consider the wasted product in flavouring the wood.
I do love the romance of a barrel, however, and would love to know if anyone has a sure fire way of cleaning them.
This is brilliant! Exactly the kind of genius I expect from you Jeff. I wonder what you get if you leave an
old-fashioned in there longer, like maybe a year? That might be really interesting.
Copper Fox Distillery sells a 2 liter barrel with stand for about $40. It is charred and ready to go.The idea is that you
are supposed to put their rye spirit (unaged 124 proof rye whiskey ) in it and let it age. It costs about $22 a bottle
(uses 2 bottles) and is a great way to break in the barrel too.
In any case it is a good place to pick up some barrels of various sizes so you can age whatever you like in them.
Getting a few barrels and breaking them in myself. After I dump the whiskey I am looking forward to aging some
cocktails in them.
Jimmy and Max – I haven’t done an Old Fashioned or a Sazerac because both of those cocktails are essentially a lot
of whiskey, a tiny bit of sugar, and a little bitters. So, in effect, it seemed to me like we’d be aging whiskey in a
whiskey barrel.
I like aging cocktails that call for vermouth because, well, I love vermouth. And also, I like seeing how the wine
changes over that short period of time in the cask.
I think it’s important to contrast your cocktail against the barrel it’s being aged in. I like the gin and vermouth
cocktails (and the rum and vermouth cocktails) in a whiskey cask, and the whiskey cocktails in a fortified wine cask.
Does that make sense?
JM
Hey Jeffrey,
Do you previously age the Negroni barrels with anything – sherry? port? madeira?
Thanks,
Matt
Jeffrey,
I am visiting Portland from St. Paul, MN in mid-May. Is there a particular day of the week between the 14th and the
25th that I should plan to drop by and try some of these? Obviously, Clyde Common was already one of my
destinations!
Randy
Any time is a good time, please stop in, introduce yourself and have one!
I don’t that “genius” is too strong of a word to use here. Well done Jeffrey!
Fabulastic. Barrel-Aged-Bartending!
I can’t wait to stop in and try all of these–69’s spring list added the delicious vintage El Presidente, I sampled an
aged martini at The Bramble, and Montgomery Place is just starting up their first go at aged Adonises.
Matt – No, I use the whiskey barrels as they come when I make the Negronis. I don’t feel there’s any need for wine
washing on that particular cocktail.
Given that I’m unlikely to make cocktails in those kinds of quantities, I wonder what the best way to replicate them
in glass is. As Jamie mentioned above, wood chips can be used (I know my local brewing supply place sells toasted
oak cubes for “barrel aging” beer and wine). But presumably barrels also exchange a bit with the air (the angel’s
share and all that), which is probably going to contribute to the reactions that take place in the barrel. A wooden
stopper might be enough, but I guess I’ll just have to play around and see what works best.
After hearing some amazed whispers of your project a few months ago, I grabbed a few used Cruzan Rum barrels to
give it a try. I can’t get any smaller than the 50 gallon ones they use, so I never really get them more than 1/10 full.
I’ve aged two different types of bitters so far, but haven’t tried a cocktail yet. The Hibiscus & Coconut bitters I used
came out with real subtle oak flavors, but as I use 189 proof rum distillate for the bitters, I don’t notice a difference
in the flavor. The color though changed dramatically, giving a rich caramel darkness to the once-almost-clear
Coconut and making the Hibiscus a near black.
I think my next try is to age a TNT Special (Applejack & Dry Vermouth) to see how the rum soaked oak imparts it’s
tenacity to the drink.
I just bought a 3 gallon barrel. Cannot wait to try some of these recipes out.
Fascinating stuff, what I was wondering is where are you able to get single malt barrels? I have looked in the past
and had no luck.
Tuttletown Distillery usually has small barrels that they have aged all sorts of spirits in. Maybe not a Scotch Single
Malt but somewhat similar
The permutations seem endless. You could say age the gin then mix a negroni or age the gin in a barrel formerly
used to age the negroni. Keep us abreast of the results
I started three gallons of Negronis today. Now just crossing off the days until it’s ready to drink.
Check this out…A portuguese company that sells barrels and copper stills. You can make liquor then age
it…awesome!
http://www.copper-alembic.com
Today Jonathan Forrester gave me a call with a question about historic aging of cocktails. I thought about it and
basically said no. He brought up a couple of maybes and I knocked ‘em down. I said that to do it in oak they’d
basically have to be aromatic cocktails because ones w/fruit juice would create a VERY suspect potion, unless they
were aged in a walk-in. Jonathan then told me about Tony and a London aged Mai Tai which I didn’t believe (didn’t
get told about glass/steel) and then he told me what you had been doing, Jeff. Having now read your own narrative, I
am astounded and excited. As far as I am concerned this earns you a place in bar and cocktail history like no one
else alive today. Nothing new under the sun? Hah. Ask Jeffrey Morganthaler. (Where the HELL have I been!?) BIG
respect, –Doc.
Aw, shucks, thanks Doc! But I couldn’t help noticing that your comment came in at 6:30PM and I know you’ve got
to have at least one cocktail in you at this point, so I’ll have to take any kudos with a grain of salt.
Pfffft. yooooo think yoooo know EVERYthing. I’ll have YOU know that….what was the question?
Jeffrey, Thanks for your patience last night with the OTHER guest. We all kept our cool and ended up having a great
time at the bar. Loved the barrel-aged Negroni, Trident, and of course, several other memorable concoctions. It was
great to finally meet you. We will try to stop in again this week before we head back to St. Paul.
Jefferey,
I am curious, what is the necessity of cleaning the barrels, as Jamie has asked? Are there concerns of bacterial
growth due to sugar content in say, vermouth, or campari? wouldn’t the alcohol take care of little beasties?
Regarding barrel-aged cocktails containing fruit juice, I just stumbled across this in Jerry Thomas’s guide. It seems,
at least in 1862, the good Professor was barrel aging cocktails with orange juice. Here’s the text:
Put three pints of orange juice, and one pound of loaf-sugar to a gallon of rum. Put all into a cask and leave it for six
weeks, when it will be ready for use.”
He doesn’t exactly say where the cask came from or whether it’s the oak effects or just the blending of the
ingredients he’s after. Maybe the cask even had rum in it to begin with, but it’s an old example, and it uses fruit juice
to boot!
Hi Jeffrey,
Clearly living in England, I can’t pop in to try your barrel aged cocktails.
However, I did take your recommendation and venture to 69 Colebrooke Road last night.
I had the ‘Vintage El Presidente’ Havana Barrel Proof, Triple Sec, Martini Rosso, Homemade Grenadine aged for 6
months.
Delicious. Thanks for the recommendation. I plan to go back to try the Manhattan (for research purposes purely).
I’ve been experimenting at work with barrel ageing vodka with interesting results.
Hi Jeffrey,
Just read about your experiments via the NY Times and have been inspired to do a little experimenting of my own. I
was wondering if you’ve tried aging a perfect Manhattan — I love the original, but have tended towards its
less-sweet sibling over the years and was curious what effect the aging process would have on the combination of
two vermouths.
Brandon
I haven’t tried aging a Perfect Manhattan yet, but would imagine the process to be the same. Try it and report your
findings back here!
Jeff,
I was in Portland two weeks ago for a wedding and made sure to take time for a visit to Clyde Common for a
barrel-aged Manhattan. Sadly, the Manhattan required more time to age so I went with a Negroni, not one of my
favorite cocktails.
First sip was, well, a Negroni, but not bad. As I continued, my palate and the Negroni became very good friends,and
by the last sip, I indeed had to have another.
Your barrel-aging is fantastic!
Hi Jeffrey – probably like many others your post and ongoing work barrel aging drinks was an inspiration. I
undertook such a project (first time) on a much smaller scale barrel aging a drink that I absolutely love, the
Chocolate Martica — turned out nice although problems with my little barrel caused me to stop short.
http://www.thespeakista.com/category/projects/project-barrel-aging/
Thinking about trying again but this time doing a drink with non-aged spirits.
That is just the most brilliant thing I’ve heard in a long time.
I’ve no direct experience myself, however, most wineries either use a high-proof spirit (in their case, Marc/grappa
/eau-de-vie) or copper sulphate sticks when cleaning barrels. The latter will leave a rotten egg aroma that takes some
time to disapate, so for this purpose I think just adding some 151 or everclear then lighting may be best.
My worry about using any sort of cleanser designed for carboys etc. is that, unlike glass/steel, wood is porous and it
would be extremely hard, if not impossible, to fully remove the cleanser perhaps imparting off-flavors to whatever
may next be aged.
Another tip: fill the barrels with water if they’re to remain empty for any extended period. If left empty the wood
may dry out, warp and soon you’ll have sprung leaks between the staves.
I love the idea and am intrigued about even taking it one step further: aging wines in spirit/cocktail casks. Islay
Scotch finished Sauternes anyone? Scotch/Sauternes finished Oaxaca old-fashioned? Or then using the Sauternes,
TBA, Tokaji, etc. in an old-fashioned or vieux carre with a base spirit that’s sympathetic to the spirit first aged in the
barrel? Brandy crusta with scotch finished Sauternes?
I’ve also read of a decent number of people aging nogs, milk punches and things of that sort in a temp-controlled
environment. bourbon barrel or malmsey-finished nog could be truly unique. Fish house punch?
And in temp.-control, what about some of the classic punches: fish house, etc.?
We have a rye up this way (read Finger Lakes area of New York State) that is aged in used local sherry barrels
which is quite nice. So even if it is not from the EU designated area for such things the local sherry and port barrels
might serve as they are trying to make a similar product in the barrel so the curing or base of the barrel flavor
spectrum would meet your requirements and a lot cheaper than shipping a barrel from Europe.
I actually live and work in Madeira island. I got a barrel from one of the major producers a while ago to try and
flavour some dark spirits for mixing, after having a word about it with some people in UK. The issue of cleaning the
barrel came across, and here the folks that make wine at home use sulphur, just like you did Jeff, to clean their
barrels so they can re-use them, and so i did.
Been thinking of getting a used madeira barrel, and asking a carpenter to cut it up in chips, so i can flavour spirits,
and after reading your amazing post, even cocktails, like they do with budget conscious New World wines.
Let´s see if that works out…
Jeffrey! This is fabulous. I’m working on a book (gaz regan’s Annual Manual for Bartenders) that will be published
next year, and I intend to feature you and Tony C as the innovators of this phenom. Could you drop me an email,
please?
Just finished up my second barrel aging subject — the Martinez. After six weeks in my little barrel the drink that
emerged is one that is rounder, lush and imparts an amazing “silky” feel on your palate as you sip it.
I’ve opted to go with a Negroni (likely to be followed by my beloved Manhattan) to see if the barrel does for the
Campari what it did for the other two drink subjects … round it out.
Am going to start off with a vieux carre aging in a single malt whiskey barrel.
Brent
I’m not sourcing the madeira casks, I’m merely finishing whiskey casks for about six months with madeira and then
using the barrel as a quasi madeira cask.
I kept it in the barrel for four weeks. After the third week I decided to try it and it was smoother than the unaged
one, but the extra week made all the difference.
I used new oak cask in which I aged for five weeks Oloroso Sherry, prior of putting in the Manhattan.
Leave a Reply
Name (required)
Website
Submit Comment