NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

FMPMM Assignment 2
MFM SEMESTER-II

QUALITY CONTROL MANUAL - SWEATER

SUBMITTED TO:​ Ms.V. Priyadarshini

SUBMITTED BY: ​Neetu Patel, Payal Dalal, Rashi Gupta & Sapna Maheshwari
 TABLE OF CONTENTS

S.No. Title Pg. No.

1 Introduction to Quality Control 2-5

2 Quality control in knitted garments 6-10

3 Knit fabric Inspection introduction 11

4 Fabric inspection SOP 12-15

5 AQL (Accepted Quality level) 16

6 Fabric stage wise inspection 17-26

7 Safety requirements 27

8 Mandatory fabric tests 28-32

9 Grey inspection & checkpoints 32-33

10 SOP for the procedure of delivery 34

11 Standardization of Quality Management System 35-50

12 Roles and responsibilities of concerned authorities 51-52

13 Supporting files and documents 53-56

14 Machinery Adopted 57-58

15 Quality related shortcuts 59

16 References 60

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 INTRODUCTION TO QUALITY CONTROL

Garment category: ​Knit (Sweater)

Common fabrics used: Sheep wool,
cashmere, cotton, linen, silk & Blends

Function
On duty:​ ​Work, business meetings,
ceremonies and other formal
environments (Refined look)
Off duty:​ Travel, athletic pursuits,
lounging at home, parties, etc. (Casual
look)

Quality means the satisfaction level of consumers. It is ​the standard of something as measured
against other things of a similar kind; the degree of excellence or a distinctive attribute or
characteristic possessed by something. ​Failure to maintain an adequate quality standard can,
therefore, be unsuccessful. But maintaining an adequate standard of quality also costs effort.
From the first investigation to find out what the potential customer for a new product really
wants, through the processes of design, specification, controlled manufacture and sale.

The number of factors on which quality fitness of the garment industry is based on
Performance, Reliability, Durability, Visual and Perceived quality of the garment. Quality needs
to be defined in terms of a particular framework of cost.

In the garment industry, quality control is practised right from the initial stage of sourcing raw
materials to the stage of the final finished garment. For the textile and apparel industry product
quality is calculated in terms of quality and standard of fibres, yarns, fabric construction, colour
fastness, surface designs and the final finished garment products. However, quality
expectations for export are related to the type of customer segments and retail outlets.

According to the sweater production process, quality control analysis of each process, the
enterprise only establishes self-inspection, mutual inspection and professionals. Check the
quality supervision system, and constantly improve the quality of staff, quality of products in
order to have a good guarantee.

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The sweater process:

Raw material inspection → knitting machine section inspection and repair of semi-finished
garment sewing section → stitched semi-finished products inspection and repair hand stitching
inspection of semi-finished stitching section → wash shrink section reduced inspection and
repair of semi-finished ironing section → ironing semi-finished products inspection and repair
nails standard product inspection and repair → packaging and storage.

Quality Assurance: Quality Assurance (QA) is a process focused concept, where the processes
are put in place to ensure the correct steps are done in the correct way. If the correct processes
are in place there is some assurance that the actual results will turn out as expected.

Quality Control: Quality Control (QC) is a product-focused concept, where checking of the
actual results are done to ensure that things are as expected. If the correct controls are in place
you can know for certain that the actual results have been achieved because the actual results
have been checked.

Total Quality Management (TQM): ​It ​is described as an all-inclusive fully integrated
productivity technique. It helps to create new markets, expand existing markets and recapture
lost markets by utilizing the optimum capability of man, machine, material, method and
produces high and uniform quality of products with reduced costs. Total quality control starts
from the market i.e. from purchasing material and machine and ends in the market i.e. selling
the finished products in the market including after-sale service. It includes market analysis,
product development, production planning, statistical quality control, preventive maintenance,
wastage control, inventory control, cost reduction and after-sales service etc. The ultimate goal
of T.Q.M. is to increase the quality/cost ratio and continuous improvement. It may be done by
increasing the quality of the same cost, decreasing the cost with the same quality and
increasing quality and decreasing cost at the same time.

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OBJECTIVES

● To maximize the production of goods within the specified tolerances correctly the first
time.
● To achieve a satisfactory design of the fabric or garment in relation to the level of choice
in design, styles, colours, the suitability of components and fitness of the product for the
market.

Importance of quality: Every product must feature functional characteristics as well as some
other aspects related to its shape, size & design. Consumers always demand following
expectations of the purchased product: The product must satisfy the consumer in terms of
beauty, attractiveness, taste, shape, design & longevity etc. depending on the type of product.
A product devoid of quality has no demand among consumers & as such, has no salability.
Excellent quality characteristics enhance the salability of the goods & are the keys to
profitability for the manufacturer or the seller. Most importantly, some criteria of customer
satisfaction are negotiable but the quality is such a factor that it is not at all bargainable.

Types of Quality
As per excellence of satisfaction, quality may be grouped into three categories:
● Quality of general acceptance
● Quality of satisfaction
● Quality category of higher delight
For example, Any local stores dress nowadays brings in the only quality of general acceptance
while a branded dress provides the buyer quality of satisfaction. On the other hand, an
exclusive designer dress brings forth a quality of great delight to buyers.

TESTING: To those engaged in the production, distribution and consumption of textiles,

testing can be a valuable aid provided tests are made the results must be studied carefully so

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that the right course of action may be taken. Testing instruments cannot make decisions and in
the end, some person has to interpret the data and issue the necessary instructions for future
action

INSPECTION: ​The inspections are done to control the quality and are meant by examining the
products without any instrument. To examine the fabric, sewing, button, thread, zipper,
garment measurement and so on according to specification or desired standard is called
inspection. There are so many facilities for inspection in every section of garment industries.
The aim of inspections is to reduce the time and cost by identifying the faults or defects in
every step of garment making.

Overall processes of Inspection & Testing

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 QUALITY CONTROL IN KNITTED GARMENT

Stages of Production

Apparel Production is generally done in four stages:

● Procurement and Inspection of raw material

● Laying and Cutting of fabric/material
● Assembly of the product
● Finishing and Packaging

Besides these, there may be an additional stage of ‘Value Addition’, which is a term used to
indicate any process that adds to the total cost of the product and hence increases the value of
the product. The addition is to enhance use and serviceability/functionality of the product
and/or its aesthetic appeal. This includes special finishes to yarn and fabric (e.g., special washes
to garments like sand wash or enzymes wash) or surface ornamentation (e.g., prints,
embroideries, etc.). This becomes specific to the product style and could be done before, during
or after assembly of the product.

1. Procurement and Inspection of Raw Material

The process of apparel manufacture begins with the procurement of raw material and
inspection or checking of the same. This includes the fabric and trims (zippers, buttons,
interlinings, labels, tags etc.). Fabric inspection is done to find faults or defects in the fabric.
Ideally, 100 percent of the fabric received should be checked before it is cut. However, when
the fabric is procured from a reliable source or when the fabric is certified as fault-free by the
fabric manufacturer, only representative sample quantities are checked.

FABRIC AND GARMENT DEFECTS

Sweater defect is an abnormality which spoils the aesthetics i.e. the clean & uniform
appearance of the fabric & effects the performance parameters, like; dimensional stability etc.
Various types of defects occur in sweaters caused by a variety of reasons. The same type of
defects may occur in the fabric due to a variety of different causes e.g. Drop Stitches, Spirality
etc. Garment defects, classified according to the various stages are:

Fabric defects classified on the basis of the source of the faults as:

● Yarn faults
● Knitting faults
● Dyeing faults

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 ● Finishing faults

Some defects may arise due to a combination of the factors detailed above. Let us briefly
examine some of these:

1. Defects arising from yarn faults

BARRINESS: Barriness defect appears in the Knitted fabric, in the form of horizontal stripes of
uniform or variable width.

SPIRALITY: Spirality appears in the form of a twisted garment, after washing. The seams on both
the sides of the garment displace, from their position & appear on the front & back of the
garment.

SHRINKAGE: A dimensional change resulting in a decrease in the length or width of a specimen

subjected to specified conditions is known shrinkage

Thick & Thin Places: It is caused due to yarn problems. If

thick & thin places remain in yam & fabric is knitted
with that yarn, then, this problem is found in fabric.

2. Defects arising from knitting

Cracks or holes, Pin Hole, Fly contaminations, Needle

broke, Sinker mark, Stains or oil lines, Fabric press off,
Lycra out, Lycra drop & Slub

3. Defects arising from dyeing faults

Shade variation/Uneven shade, Pinhole damage, Crease

mark, Dye spots & Dead cotton on dyed cotton

4. Defects arising from finishing faults

Wrong slitting, Lycra burn, Band line & Dust

Classification of faults on the basis of Horizontal &

Vertical

Horizontal faults

● Uneven counts between yarns

● Uneven counts within yarns
● Different dyeing shades between yarn
● Different dying within one yarn

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 ● Different spinning/batch source of yarn

Different heat treatment given to man-made yarns.

Vertical faults are resulted from the knitting process but can occur with finishing. A common
vertical fault is a needle line. It is because a faulty needle may produce a wale slightly larger or
smaller or distorted loop. Really faulty needles result in vertical lines of occasional tuck stitches.

Pattern defects
Parts of the pattern are missing, probably because the marker did not include the correct
number of parts. Mixed parts, because the marker is not correctly labelled, resulting in a
marriage of wrong sized parts. Patterns not facing correct direction on napped fabrics. Not all
patterns facing in the same direction on a one-way fabric.
Patterns not aligned with respect to the fabric grain. Poor line definition (e.g. too thick chalk;
indistinctly printed line, perforated lay not powdered) leading to inaccurate cutting. Skimpy
marking, caused by either the marker did not use the outside edge of the pattern; or the
pattern was moved or swung after partial marking to squeeze the pattern into a smaller space
for economizing the fabric.
Marking back from miniature markers also can cause trouble unless the miniature marker
making is in the hands of experienced operators. Worn out edges could be found in full-size
patterns.

Spreading defects
Not enough plies to cover the number of garments required. Plies misaligned, resulting in
garment parts getting cut with bits missing in some plies at the edge of the spread. Narrow
fabric causes garment parts at the edge of the lay getting cut with bits missing. Incorrect
tension of plies, i.e. fabric spread too tight or too loose. This will result in parts not fitting in
sewing, and finished garments not meeting size tolerances.
Not all piles facing in the correct direction (whether 'one way' as with nap, or 'one way either
way' as with some check designs). This happens when the fabric is not spread face down,
face-up, or face to face as required. Unacceptable damages in the garment parts. Parts not fully
included owing to splicing errors. Spread distorted by the attraction or repulsion of plies caused
by excessive static electricity. Plies are not spread accurately one above another for cutting.
This results in mismatching checks.

Cutting defects
When one fails to follow the marker lines it results in distorted garment parts. Top and bottom
plies can be a different size if the straight knife is allowed to lean, or if a round knife is used on
too high a spread. Notches, which are misplaced, too deep, too shallow, angled, omitted, or the

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wrong type to suit fabric. Drill marks, which are misplaced, wrong drill to suit fabric, omitted,
not perpendicular through the spread.
Frayed edges, scorched or fused edges, caused by a faulty knife, not sharp enough, or rotating
at too high a speed. Knife cut. Garment part damaged by careless use of the knife, perhaps
overrunning cutting the previous piece. Marker incorrectly positioned on top of spread.
Garment parts have bits missing at the edge of the clay. If too tight or too loose then garment
parts are distorted. Slits opened inaccurately.

Garment Twist
Rotation, usually lateral, between different panels of a garment resulting from the release of
latent stresses during laundering of the woven or knitted fabric forming the garment.

Fabric Quality: ​The word quality in knitted fabric sometimes is used to describe the loop
density of the particular fabric. This dimension, loop density, is the most important one in
defining knitted fabric properties and is directly related to fabric appearance, weight per unit
area, thickness, drape. The loop length is the single unit cell formed in knitted fabric and is
directly related to loop density. In general, as the loop size increases, the loop density
decreases. The fabric relationship is:-
S=K/l2 where S is loop density, l is loop length and K is constant for a particular construction.

Course Length: For some structure with complex geometry (like fancy jacquard with different
loop length), the average loop length value is largely irrelevant. The "quality" is expressed
indirectly, either as a course length or loop density.

Measurement of course length

A course length is determined by un-roving yarn from a known number of loops of fabric and
measuring its length using a crimp tester. For a circular machine, which is normally composed
of a different number of feeders, the measurement must be done on each individual feeder.
For V-bed machines, care must be taken for the position of the -cam system, as the machine
changes the direction on each alternative course.

Weight per unit area and cover factor: The "weight" of a knitted fabric depends on two factors,
namely the loop size and the yarn size. The effect of loop size is simple to express: if the size of
the yarn remains constant, then increasing loop size produces a decrease in weight per unit
area. The effect is an inverse ratio. Double the loop size means half the weight per square unit.

Cover Factor: In a knitted fabric, for the fabric of similar construction, as the loop length
increases, the size of yarn increases. The cover is a simple ratio of the area of a knitted fabric
covered by yarn to the area covered by the gaps in between loops. It can be shown that for a

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given knitted structure, if the cover ratio is maintained through a range of fabrics with different
loop lengths, then those fabrics are related in characteristics of tightness/looseness and other
physical properties. The formula of cover factor that takes into account of yarn diameter, loop
length and loop density is:- Cover factor = Ötex/1

Relationship of:

● Yam count against loop length

● Weight per square meter against loop length see the diagrams

The graph of the relationship between loop length and weight per square meter for a given
construction while maintaining a cover factor, is a straight line. i.e double the loop length,
double the diameter of the yarn, double the weight/m2.

Measurement of fabric (Relaxation): ​It is difficult to measure the dimensions and quantities of
cotton fabric because of the extensible nature of the material and the possibility that it is under
stress in the time of measurement.

Knitted fabric may change dimensions with time, handling and with subsequent wet treatments
including steaming, and such change can occur after the garment has been produced and sold
to the public. The concept of relaxation stated for knitted fabric is used.

Quality control must ensure that before knitted garments are cut, the fabric is in a relaxed or
near relaxed condition (ie. There will be little shrinkage of the fabric/garment when it is in the
consumer’s hands)

Relaxation procedure: Most test procedures involve agitation in aqueous solution followed by
measurement underwater, and spinning and tumble drying. They attempt to reproduce the
conditions under which the garment will be laundered during usage.

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 KNIT FABRIC INSPECTION

The essential process of maintaining the quality of raw materials used during making the
finished product is called inspection. For garments, there is a need to check the quality of the
fabric, sewing thread, trims etc.

Inspection Sheet Format Sample

Name of Company
Standard Operating Procedure ​(SOP)

Quality control Section: Quality/ Store

Doc ID: QCS-12/1-01
Version No. : 1.0
Issue Date: 25th Feb 2020

Implementation Date:​ 25th Feb’20

Performed by:​ Store Quality Control Team / Fabric Inspector
Approved by:​ Store Manager, Quality Manager & Merchandiser
Discussion on:​ Fabric Quality Standard
Discussion with:​ Store, Quality & Merchandising Department
Reporting to:​ Quality Control Manager
Person Responsible:​ Fabric Inspector & Store Manager
Department:​ Quality Control – Store
Process:​ Fabric Inspection
Frequency:​ For all Delivery/Types/Lots/Colors of Fabric Receipt.

Sample Amendment Sheet

Issue Date Initiated by Page Section Nature of Done by
amendment

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 SOP FABRIC INSPECTION
Purpose
a. To assure the fabrics which are going to be used for the bulk production is as per the
acceptable standard.

Process
a. Fabric inspection shall be done immediately after the inventory is done and need to
complete within 72 Hours (3 Days).
b. Fabric inspection is done in a suitable and safe environment with enough ventilation and
proper lighting.
c. Fabric passing through the frame must be between 45-60 degree angles to the inspector
and must be done on appropriate Cool White light 2 F96 fluorescent bulbs above the
viewing area. The backlight can be used as and when needed.
d. Fabric speed on inspection machines must not be more than 15 yards per minute.
e. Standard approved bulk dye lot standards for all approved lots must be available prior
to inspection (if possible)
f. Approved standard of bulk dye lot must be available before starting inspection for
assessing colour, construction, finish and visual appearance.
g. Textiles like knits must be evaluated for weight against standard approved weight.
h. Fabric width must be checked from selvedge to selvedge against standard
i. Fabric inspection shall be conducted following 4 POINT SYSTEM (Passable points will be
up to 28 per 100 Square Yards).
j. Shall require Fabric Invoice, Detailed Packing List, Approved Fabric/Rib Quality and Color
Standards/Swatches to perform the inspection.

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 k. Inspector shall be provided approved fabric swatches, Fabric invoice, Packing List to
determine quantity to inspect & select rolls.
l. No matter what is accepted or rejected sewing dept. need to perform 100% cut panel
inspection before input.
m. Shade continuity within a roll by checking shade variation between the centre and
selvedge and the beginning, middle and end of each roll must be evaluated and
documented.
n. 10% of the quantity received from each Color/Lot shall be selected randomly for the
Inspection.
o. If the 10% inspection is failed shall go for another 20% Fabric Inspection, 20% inspection
is failed then it shall go for another 50% fabric inspection, 50% inspection is failed then
inspection is performed for100% quantity of the total fabric to determine the
percentage of rejects to inform the QC manager.
p. In the 100%, fabric inspection shall reject any fabric roll which goes beyond 40 points
per 100 square yards.
q. Fabric Width, Length and Weight shall be checked for each Roll/Bale and record in the
report. All other details like Fabric Content, Fabric Construction, the hand feel and
Special Finish (if any) should be mentioned in the report under the Claim Field (not
checked). All these properties should be a check against the buyer approved standard.
r. The inspection report shall be duly filled with observation and findings in details.
s. Inspection reports shall be submitted to the QC manager for approval.
t. In the event of any fabric inspection rejection, QC manager, GM Operation, GM
Merchandising, or supplier shall be informed immediately with the report for the
decision jointly made by them and certified.
u. Samples of various types of Fabric Defect shall be displayed at the inspection machine
area for easy reference.
v. All rolls which have been passed in the inspection to be stacked in a place marked
“PASSED LOT”. Any “REJECTED” Rolls or Lots to be kept in the controlled
Non-Conforming Raw- Materials area to avoid mix-up with others OK goods and should
mark all rolls in “REDBAND”. A Log with detail of these Non-Conforming goods should be
maintained.
w. FABRIC INSPECTION RESULT SUMMARY - MONTHLY to be completed by Q.C in charge
and shall submit to Q.A.M at the end of each month.

Penalty points are recorded and only major defects are considered not minor.

Fabric Inspection Method​:​ Fabric is inspected to determine its acceptability from a quality
viewpoint. There are various fabric inspection systems such as-

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 1. 4- point system
2. 10- Point system
3. 2.5- point system etc.

The procedure of Four Point System:

● Fabric inspection is usually done on fabric inspection machinery.
● These machinery are designed so that rolls of fabric can be mounted behind the
inspection table under adequate light and re-rolled as they leave the table.
● Inspection machinery is either a power driver or the inspector pulls the fabric over the
inspection table.
● The defects are located, marked and recorded on an inspection form.
● Some machinery is equipped to measure the length of each roll of fabric (meter/yard).
● Must have adequate lighting levels of 800 to 1200 lux of good quality daylight bulbs.
● Defects and Penalty points - ​Fabric defects point values should be marked with a
coloured sticker. To show defect position the selvedge should be marked with the same
colour of sticker or thread.

Defects in both warp/weft directions will be assigned points using the following criteria:
Defect Length Points Sticker Color

Less than 3” 1 White

3”-6” 2 Green

6”-9” 3 Yellow

Over 9” 4 Red

Hole Points Sticker Colour

Less or equal to 2.5cm/1” 2 Green

Larger than 2.5cm/1” 4 Red

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Below is the Point calculation formula using 4 Point System Fabric Inspection
● Total Defect points/No. of yards inspected x 36 Inches/Fabric width x 100 = Points Per
100 sq. Yds.
● What is the acceptable level of quality in the fabric inspection using the 4 point System?
It is 28 POINTS per 100 sq. Yds. 4.

Calculations and Result

● Total defect points per 100-yard square are calculated.
● If fabric rolls contain less than 40 points per 100-yard square are considered “first”
quality and as acceptance criteria.
● If fabric rolls containing more than 40 points per 100 yards square are considered
“second”.

Example
A fabric roll 130 yards long and 45 inches wide contains the following defects:
6 defects up to 3 inches: 6 X 1 = 6 points
5 defects over 3 inches but less 6 inches: 5 X 2 = 10 points
2 defects over 6 inches but less 9 inches: 3 X 2 = 6 points
1 defects over 9 inches: 1 X 4 = 4 points
1 hole of over 1-inch dimension: 1 X 4 = 4 points
Total defect points: 30 points
Therefore,
Points per 100 yard square = (Total points scored in roll X 36 inch)/ (Fabric width/inches X Total
length yard inspected) X 100
= (30 X 36)/(130 X 45) X 100 = 18.4 (Defect points per 100 yard square.) So, the roll is accepted.

Benefits
● Assure Fabric used in the bulk production is at an acceptable quality level.
● Minimize garments rejection due to Fabric defects.

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 ● Reduce rework in garments.
● Save fabrics and trims without garments being rejected due to Fabric defects.
● Can claim supplier for defective Fabric.
AQL ( Acceptable Quality Level )

A certain proportion of defects will always occur in any manufacturing process. If the
percentage does not exceed a certain limit, it will be economical to allow the defective to go
through instead of screening the entire lot. This limit is called the "Acceptable Quality Level" (
AQL ). The term AQL stands for acceptable quality level or acceptance quality level. It is one of
the most used terms in the garment industry when it comes to quality.

The AQL is the maximum percent defective that for the purpose of sampling inspection can be
considered satisfactory as a process average. When a company in charge designates some
specific value of AQL for a certain defect or group of defects he indicates to the supplier that his
acceptance sampling plan will accept the great majority of the lots or batches that the supplier
submits, provided the process average level of per cent defective in these lots or batches is no
greater than the designated value of AQL.
Thus, the AQL is a designated value of percent defective that the customer indicates will be
accepted most of the time by the acceptance sampling procedures to be used. The AQL is
generally expressed in percent (%). The AQLs most widely used in the apparel industry are 2.5,
4.0, 6.5, and 10.0 depending on the price and item. For example, for low price items and
children’s wear, AQLs of 6.5 and 10.0 may be quite appropriate, however, for higher price items
AQLs of 2.5 and 4.0 may be appropriate.

It should be noted here that most of the acceptance decisions of export shipments are made on
the basis of AQL based random sampling plans. To ensure the right quality products, an AQL
chart has to follow during a quality inspection of apparel which varies even buyer to buyer.

Considering the practical & economic

aspects, Sampling Techniques are
adopted to Accept or Reject a Lot on
the basis of the Samples drawn at
Random from the lot. It has been
found and accepted that a
scientifically designed sampling &
inspection plan protects a
Manufacturer as well as the Buyer
economically.

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American Military Standards known as MIL-STD-105A to 105E are accepted world-wide for
sampling sizes. It has the following sample size levels. Normally for Garment Industry 105D or
105E are followed.

1. Special Inspection Levels ( S1, S2, S3 & S4 )

2. General Inspection Levels ( I, II & III )
3. It has various AQL levels from 0.040 to 25 for Accepting or Rejecting the lots. Normally
for Garment industry, the AQL levels of 2.5, 4.0 and 6.5 are followed.

AQL CHART

FABRIC STAGE WISE INSPECTION

Blanket Making: For every style, it is washed or unwashed, a blanket is made to see the fabric
shade & variation of colour.

1. Shade Blanket

Objective

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To find or all shade from bulk fabric for shade band making. Shade band to be made based on
the outcome of the shade blanket.
● To evaluate bulk fabric shade before bulk production to ensure all shade lots within an
acceptable range

Making Method
● Shade blanket to be made once bulk fabric available in factory
● Each roll of bulk fabric to be cut an 8″(weft) x 6″ (warp) swatch for shade blanket
making
● Roll number to be marked on the backside by textile marker pen
● Join all fabric swatches together by overlock stitch then join the left-right side to make a
blanket in leg panel form

2. Shade Band

Objective
● Set up an acceptable shade range for factory bulk production guidelines.
● Find out shade & solve a problem at the earlier stage before bulk production.

Shade Band Making Method

● Shade band must be submitted before bulk production is started.
● Each shade made two sets of leg panels for buyer approval.
● Leg panel dimension is to be (8″half x 16″)
● Achieve shade as close as the washing standard
● Half/Cut leg panels are not acceptable for approval

3. Shrinkage & Distortion Testing

Objective (Shrinkage)
● It is the way to determinate bulk fabric shrinkage for paper pattern adjustment to
ensure washed garment measurement meets with the size space.
● To determine whether the fabric shrinkage fulfils buyer requirements at the earlier
stage before bulk production.

Objective (Distortion)
● Check whether the fabric skew movement is fulfilling buyer requirement at the earlier
stage before bulk production
● Defect twisted issue before bulk production

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4. Shrinkage Testing Method
● Shrinkage & Distortion testing to be done once the bulk fabric is in-house
● Testing could proceed with the same template at the same time with the same yardage.
● For normal fabric, a minimum of 10% of bulk fabric is being tested.
● For low stretchability fabric, minimum 30% of bulk fabric to be tested.
● For high stretchability fabric 100% of bulk, fabric to be tested
● Refer to the purchase order to determine whether a bulk fabric is high stretchability
fabric or not.
● The specimen for testing to be selected for each dyeing lot.
● 100% test when shrinkage in bulk fabric is unstable. As part of fabrics, shrinkage exceeds
the tolerance, shrinkage range is too wide in the same lot of bulk fabric.
● Specimens for testing must be fully relaxed before marking.
● Mark two 50 cm x 50 cm squares (Minimum) on specimen’s left, right.
● Specimens must be washed as bulk production; no ironing /pressing/steaming on the
washed specimen for the shrinkage test result.
● Measure the length difference between the before wash and after a wash in weft &
warp
● Convert in percentage
● Take the average of the 2 parts
● For distortion test result
● Measure the length of diagonal (AC & BD) after wash
● Calculate the percentage by using below formula X =100x[2(AC-BD)/(AC+BD)]
● Show 2 parts results, do not take the average
● None of them can exceed buyer requirement :3%

5. Cutting Inspector’s Instructions

The Quality Control inspector should check the work of each spreader for the following:

Placement of Marker​: One should check and verify so that the marker is sited on the range with
the brink matching to the selvedge of the piece goods. Need to confirm that all cut pieces will
be finished properly.
Shading:​ A control system should have for checking of shading if all parts are ply marked.
Table Marks:​ Table is to be marked so check the table marks and please do not allow any
splices.
Markers:​ Make sure that there are no makers with creased or overlapped parts in the markers.
Splices:​ After spreading is finished then check the splice laps that both plies extend past the
marked splice by less than 1/2 (half) inch and not more than 1 (one) inch.
Narrow Goods:​ ​After completion of the spread, check the “far edge” of the spread to see that
all plies extend beyond the marker line.

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Tension: ​Check tension during spreading. This is very important on knit fabrics
Count:​ Check the count after completion of spreading, and before cutting. Count all plies at
both ends. There is no tolerance.
Leaning:​ Check carefully to ensure that one edge of the fabric is square to the tabletop. Visually
inspect the alignment of the edge with the tabletop.
Record of spreading defects is done by the number of defects found for each checkpoint. For
fabric utilization purposes, the sample form includes columns for edging end and remnants.
Calculate the defect rate for the spreader by dividing the number of defects found by the
height.
Cutting:​ The quality control inspector should check each cutter at a 2.5 acceptable Quality Level
(A.Q.L) based on the number of parts being cut.
The Quality control inspector should check for
Miscut:​ Check for miscut or the failure of the cutter to “split the line “Tolerance is 1/16” Report
all defects for miscut to the cutting foreman (Supervisor)
Matching:​ Plies check the top ply with the bottom ply. Compare both to a hard pattern or the
paper marker Comparison to a hard pattern is best. Tolerance is +- 1/8”. Report each defect
found to the cutting foreman(supervisor).
Rugged Cutting:​ Check for rugged cutting according to the standards for your product. This is a
judgment defect. It is more important on critical parts if the part has to be recut, it is a defect.
Notches:​ Check the notch location by placing the pattern over the top ply. Tolerance is +- 1/8″
If the botch is more than 1/8″ off. Contact the cutting foreman (supervisor).
Pattern Check:​ Compare the pattern to maker paper to ensure that the maker was correct.
Record cutting defects on a cutting quality control form along with the number of bundles
examined. To calculate the defect rate for cutting, divide the total defects found by the number
of bundles checked.
Often changes are made to patterns to adjust for production problems. Some suppliers note
such changes on the pattern and/or maker for the cutter to correct. Do not allow such a policy.
Preventive measures are the best control for quality. Make a new pattern with the correction.

6. Sewing
100% in Line Q.I Audit
The ​root canal system in sewing, For that, we analyze the source & reason of defects and take
preventive action as per the root cause. Q.I checks 100% incomplete garments of quality
control manual. Q.I writes the operator name & I.D in the format and makes that, how many
defects have been done in one hour and then one day. And this daily total result is added for
monthly summarization for the quality evaluation process. The hourly defects record is very
important for root cause analysis. If anyone of Q.C sees the hourly record, they can easily
imagine what is going on & what have to do?

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100% End Line Audit
End line Q.I checks 100% garments. Q.I writes down the name & ID no of operators & keeps an
hourly record of defects. So that we can easily identify the most defective operation and take
preventive immediate action. We compare both reports of inline & end line to see the
efficiency of Q.C, either he is doing proper work or doing homework.
In-house Q.C Check
An in-house audit is another station audit done by line Q.C we do that for the more safety.
When comes first output, Q.C checks the styling & the statistical audit to find out any mistake
which has been done in sewing. In finishing a section, finishing Q.C will again do the statistical
audit to find out any error, which has been done in the finishing section. For that, we can solve
any problem from the very beginning.

Finishing Procedure

After Receiving From Wash

After receiving from the wash, finishing procedure is started, at the same time press covering
all size & colour to see the measurement, wash standard, hand fill & any wash defect by wash
factory. Also, carton & poly, measurement ensured by the first production.

Trimming
Trimming is the most important thing of quality. For that, a trimming section is established to
strictly control the uncut thread. Thread ends over 3 mm are not allowed. Trimming is taken
care of throughout the stitching process. Final trimming is done in the finishing area before
packing.

Inside Checking
A large quantity of Q.I recon check 100% garments, process-wise in the side of garments. They
ensure that no defect & uncut thread inside of the garments. For every QI provide their
personal Q.C pass number inside of the pocket.

Thread Shaking
For removing the loose thread & number sticker garments thread shaking machine is used.
100% of garments go to the finishing area through the thread shaking action.

Preliminary Top Side Checking

In the finishing section, the QI person checks 100% garments, the process-wise top side of
garments. They ensure that no defect & uncut top side of the garments. For that, every QI gives
their personal Q.C pass number inside of the pocket.

21
Pressing
We have a gas steam boiler for clean ironing. The iron shoe is used to avoid the shining mark.
For perfection, sometimes a garment is pressed two times. One is called preliminary pressing &
another is called repressing. This was after final & getup checking.
Final Checking
After preliminary pressing QI person checks topside of whole garments. They ensure that no
defect, spot & uncut thread top side of the garments. For that, every QI gave their personal Q.C
pass number inside of the pocket.

Measurement Check
100% of garments should be a measurement check before packing. Measurement defects
garments should not advance for packing. Defect means out of tolerance, if it can rectify, it will
be packed otherwise it will be counted as a reject.

Getup Checking
Q.I check there is something odd looking at a glance in whole garments, like out of shape, spot,
poor pressing and mainly checks any missing of a hand tag price tag, and size tag. And match
the barcode number, bar, wording everything with the approval trim card.

Re-pressing
Re-pressing is needed to recover the damage by Q.C handling. This is done for an attractive
outlook.

Metal Detection
There is no perfection to enter any okay garments without metal detector machine checking.
All the okay garments are sent to the packing section through a metal detector machine.
Packing section is isolated by the gatekeeper system. Detection standard is 1.0 mm diameter
sphere of ferrous metal. Keep a 100% record of metal detection.

Ratio & Shade Checking

Before seal, the carton Q.C checks the ratio & garments shade that, the ratio & garments shade
is as per buyer requirement & same shade in one carton. If both things are okay Q.C give a sign
inside of the carton, then the carton should be sealed in front of Q.C.

Pre-Final Inspection
There is an in-house pre-final audit for self-confirmation, done by the chief quality controller.
He audits by 2.5 A. Q.L was receiving the Q.C pass report offered for a final inspection.

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Bowing/Skewing
Bowing is the measurement of the bowing arc at the highest point of a line at right angles
Between the two selvedges.

Skewing/Twisting
Skewing/Twisting is the measurement of the highest point between a weft thread/row and a
line at right angles between the two selvedges/folds.

Tolerance Calculation
A/(Cuttable width) x 100 = Max %
Fabric Type Jersey
(Max % of fabric width)

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 Solid colours/Prints 5%

Stripes/Checks 4%
Rolls exceeding these tolerances have failed.
Exception
Skewing are characteristics for woven twill/satin constructions and for a single jersey.
The skewing tolerance must, therefore, be agreed on each order separately, and stated on the
“Fabric Technical Data”. The H&M garment supplier must first check twisting and eventual
distortion on garment after:
● Eventual garment treatment
● Washing according to the care instruction
In case of Inconsistent skewing/twisting in-between inspected rolls, the inspection has failed.

Inspection procedures
1. Weight
● Check weight on minimum 10% of the rolls chosen for inspection.
● Weigh a 100 cm² cutting; convert the weight into m²/yd².
● Weight should correspond to weight stated on Fabric Technical Data.
● If the deviation is more than -5% / +7% the roll has failed.
2. Cuttable width
The minimum Cuttable width, measured between needle holes at roll selvedges, is stated on
The Fabric Technical Data and must be checked at least 3 times on each roll at:
● Beginning
● Middle
● End
Rolls, where cuttable width is less, has failed.

Roll length verification

Roll length measuring less than 40 m/yds cannot be accepted unless agreed.
Roll length stated on the roll ticket must be verified against the actual roll length Measured by
the fabric checking machine.
If the deviation is 1% less, the length should be double checked on a cutting table.
If the difference remains, the roll has failed.

Splices
Minimum splice length is 30 m/yds.
Splice location must be noted on the individual roll inspection report.

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4 penalty points will be assigned for each splice/join. roll is allowed to contain more than 1
splice/join.

Fabric odours
Rolls that emit an unpleasant odour, are considered failed.

Shade check-in Light Box

● Two-person together going for shade Check is avoided as it might lead to the Wrong
Decision. Because Two People cannot have the same Measurable Power, So the
combined decision is taken.
● With Three Light Shade Check
● Make Family Shade A&B
● Light D65, TL 83, A-10
● 1 st Batch Shade check with Woven Standard & Counter Sample
● Next Batch Check Batch to Batch with Counter
● White & Grey Mélange Must be Check with UV Light
● Metameric check-in A-10 Home Light
● Shade check-in 45 degrees Angle

Light Sourcing (Knits)

Store Light (Primary) TL83 Lax Value 1000 to more

DayLight (Secondary) D65 Lax Value 1000 to More

Home Light A-10 Lax Value 800 to More

Morning SunLight Ultra Violet (UV)

Fabrics Delivery Approval Authority

1. Check Buyer Requirement, Width, GSM, Shade match, Shrinkage, Accessories ( Rib,
Collar & Cuff, Piping, Back neck tap with Measurement)- Confirm from Online In-charge
& Executive (Shade)
2. Test Result (Shrinkage, Twist, Rubbing, Pilling & Wash Fastness)- confirm from Physical
Lab Manager
3. Fulfil the Buyer Requirement then possible to Delivered
● GSM- 5-7% Low from Required
● Shrinkage L-4% W-7% Spirality 5%
● Width ±1 inch

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 ● Test as Buyer Required
4. Approved by any problems fabrics
● GSM, Width & Shrinkage (Cotton) - Knitting GM & Manager, Finishing AGM &
Manager with Sign.
● GSM, Width & Shrinkage (Lycra)- Finishing AGM & Manager with Sign
● Shade, Uneven, Hairiness- AGM(Dyeing) with sign
● Test (Color Fastness, Pilling, Rubbing)- AGM(Dyeing), also Physical Lab Manager
with sign
5. Overall if take Responsibility Related Merchandiser then we can deliver any kind of
problems fabrics but need to take a sign.
6. Any person is given the approval then we send mail to the related person in the
department
7. Without proper inspection not a single kg fabrics delivered

Colour continuity record

Colour and shades must be controlled by maintaining colour continuity records. Dye lot to dye
lot, within a dye lot and within a roll must be checked. Records must be Available for H&M and
kept for at least 6 months.
The swatches must be a minimum of 4x10 cm and be evaluated visually in a lightbox. A close
critical match to colour standard and approved fabric must be achieved in; TL83, D65 And
display no dramatic difference in colour appearance in A-light (tungsten). For more detailed
information see Supplier Colour Guide Book.
For the use of ISO 105-A02: 1993 Grey scale for assessing change in colour there should not Be
a greater difference than 4-5 between any parts within a dye lot and roll.

Full-width cutting
At the beginning and at the end of each roll selected for fabric inspection, cut a 30 cm/6”
full-width cutting.
The look, hand feel, and colour must be compared in the lightbox against:
● Colour Standard
● Approved fabric
● Fabric Technical Data
Shade deviation within a roll must be checked by folding or sewing:
● Side to side
● Side-centre-side
● Beginning-end
If the difference is more than 4-5 on the greyscale between any parts, the H&M local office
must be contacted.

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 SAFETY REQUIREMENTS
Hazards or risks involved in making a product can be identified, described and listed. This is
known as ​Risk Assessment​. In the workplace, it is essential to know what might cause harm or
injury to people or the environment, so that safety precautions and systems can be put in place
to prevent accidents or mishappenings.

Materials arrive in the factory are stored

Hazards: Head injury from an overhead transport system. Trapped fingers and feet from
moving conveyors, trolleys, and vehicles. Tripping over stacked materials, falling from steps and
platforms.
Safety measures: Hard hats are worn. Danger areas marked with black-and-yellow warning
strips, designated walkways. Safety guards and protective clothing, gloves and footwear worn.

Fabric spread and pieces cut out using a band saw

Hazards:​ Finger and hand injuries and spreading machine and cutting blades. Dust inhalation.
Safety measures:​ Use finger guard, protective chainmail gloves and steel toe cap footwear.

Fusing interlinings
Hazards: Burns to fingers and hands from hot plates, feeding and unloading machines,
inhalation of vapours.
Safety measures: Use a press that is controlled by both hands, one person per machine.
Ventilation to remove vapours.

Pressing and steaming

Hazards: Burns and scalds to fingers and hands from hot plates and steam, feeding and
unloading machines, inhalation of vapours
Safety measures: ​Use a press that is controlled by both hands, one person per machine. Use a
steam room rather than steaming individual garments. Ventilation to remove vapours.

Production line handling

Hazards: Head injury from an overhead transport system. Trapped fingers and feet from
moving conveyors, trolleys and vehicles. Tripping over stacked material.

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Safety measures: Hard hats are worn. Danger areas marked with black-and-yellow warning
strips, designated walkways. Safety guards and protective clothing, gloves and footwear worn.

Packaging
Hazards:​ Finger and hand injuries from cutting, folding and heat sealing during packaging
Safety measures: Ventilation to remove vapours from heat sealers. Safety guards and protective
clothing, gloves and footwear worn.
Displaying educational posters is a powerful way to educate workers

FABRIC TESTING

Quality must be built into the product, for this, the fabric testing is done to get the assurance.
The purpose of testing is to assess, achieve and meet customers satisfaction and expectations.
Providing products of value to consumers requires careful design, planning, and manufacturing.

Without any assurance, that product performance will not be satisfactory and consistent and
because of this consumers will not make repeat purchases. Therefore, quality testing is
essential. Most factories have a basic Laboratory in-house to test fabric and finished garments.
Test results should be captured and combined with Fabric Inspection results to determine the
status of the lot. These results should be detailed and used for fabric mill improvement efforts.

These are the following tests should be conducted for the garments by the third party:
1. Flammability Test ​General (Adult’s Garments)
Time of flame spread: Face Side - Mean Value > 5 seconds
If the market thread is reached after 5 sec, the surface flash is OK.
Reverse side - Mean Value > 5 seconds
2. Pull Force Test (​Requirement 90 N)

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All buttons/accessories, which fits completely into the small part testing cylinder.
3. Reflector test
Requirement - Photometric Test: 400 CIL (mcd/lux)
For reflective materials on products with care instructions; measured after 5 washing & drying
cycles

Mandatory Garment Test per Care Instructions with Fabric Testing

TEST DESCRIPTION TEST METHOD MINIMUM PERFORMANCE

REQUIREMENTS

Dimensional stability to AATCC 135/150 Knitted fabrics: +/- 5% max

Laundering
(after 3 washes)

Acceptable Appearance Color

Change: Minimum 4.0
Appearance after Laundering Visual Staining: Minimum 3.0

Knitted fabrics: ​Maximum

Length: -3%, Width: -3%

(​No Distortion Between

Components; No Growth)

Dimensional stability to Dry AATCC 158 Knitted fabrics: ​Maximum

Cleaning Length: -3%, Width: -3%

(​No Distortion Between

Components; No Growth)

29
Appearance after Dry Visual Acceptable Appearance Color
Cleaning One time Only Change: Minimum 4.0
Multiple Dry Cleaning may be Staining: Minimum 3.0
required based on Novelty
Fabric/Trim, Embellishment,
and/or Fiber Content

Sweater Weight Sweater Weighing Scale, +/- 3% Lbs from standard

Lbs/Dozen

Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 55 PSI Minimum1

Stitch Count (Wales x ASTM D 3887 + / - 5% from standard

Courses)

Pilling resistance ASTM 3512 Sweater (Cotton and blends):

Minimum 4.0
– 30 minutes

TESTS FABRIC TYPE: KNITTED

Fibre Analysis(Composition/Fibre content) On Request

Construction On Request
Yarn Count On Request
Weight On Request

Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage) To Washing Yes

To Drycleaning

Spirality Yes

Colour Fastness Yes

Pilling Yes (Pill Box)

Stretch & Recovery Yes

Flammability As per legal requirements of the standards

30
 UPF(Ultraviolet Protection Factor) As per legal requirements of the standards

Water Absorbency/Wicking On Request

Standard Test Method – High-Risk Color Blocked Styles​ (Knitted Fabric)

High-risk colour-blocked products include colour-blocked garments; garments with contrast

trims, patchworks, and appliqué; contrast-striped fabrics, prints in contrast colour; and other
items with contrast multi-colour components.

Colour Theory
Pigment Theory
● Primary – Red, Yellow, Blue
● Secondary – Orange, Green, Violet
● Tertiary – Olive, Grey, Purple
Allowable Maximum Points
Same roll Same defects = 20 points/100 meters
Same roll Average defects = 40 points/100 meters
Average roll Same defects = 14 points/100 meters
Average roll Average defects = 28 points/100 meters

Accepted Average & Maximum

Fabrics Type Avg/yards Max/yards Avg/Meter Max/Meter

Single Jersey 15 20 17 22

Double Jersey 18 24 20 26

Interlock 22 28 24 31

Purpose
To ensure high-risk colour-blocked garments with contrast colour have the best possible colour
fastness performances.

Description
Colour blocking is a design concept that combines at least two different colours in the same
garment. These colours are generally contrasting colours with one being of heavy shade and

31
the other light shade. There should be no colour transfer or cross staining from the dark to the
light shade, particularly onto white or off white shades.
Thus, high-risk colour-blocked products require more
stringent colour fastness ratings for the individual
colours than normal specifications and it must be
discussed with the fabric supplier before a Purchase
Order is written for the program. The supplier must
choose dyes (and processing steps) that meet the
stringent requirements. The dyes will generally be
more expensive than normal dye cost.

Apparatus: Color Standard Depths: Matt B.S.1006 and I.S.O. 105

Colour Shade Classification: Colour Shade Classification based on Color Depth index
Colour Shade Classification Colour Depth

Light < or = 1/12

Medium in range of >1/3 and <1/6

Dark > or = 1/1

Grey fabric inspection

It is the process of identifying knitting faults in the knitted fabric just after the grey fabric
production in the knitting machine.
● Knitting Production
● Inspection, 4 Point System
● More than 28 points are Rejected
● Major Problems are discussed with QAD(Quality Assurance
Department) Head
● Kept Record in GPQ (Garment Process Quality) File

Grey fabric inspection faults are-

1. Needle Mark-If needle or needle hooks slightly break or into a
curve shape, needle marks occur. Remedy for this is that the needle
should be straight.

2. Needle Broken- Defects caused by the broken needles show prominently as vertical lines
parallel to wales. There are no loops formed in the Wale which has a broken needle.

32
3. Hole Mark 4. Pin Hole

5. Loop
It happens if the needle latch is hard or
curved and if yarn tension is loose. For this, the remedy is to clean or
change the needle or set proper yarn tension.

6. Seat up: It happens when the needle latch is not working properly,
also caused because of thick yarn or improper knot.

7. Drop Stitches
Causes: Defective needle or else If the yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e not
properly laid on to the needle hook.
· Insufficient yarn tension
· Badly set yarn feeder.

Record-Keeping Of GPQ
● Booking Sheet Collection
● FTD Collection

33
 ● Counter Collect
● Order Risk Assessment
● Inspection Report (4 Point System)
● Shade Continuity
● Roll to Roll GSM Board
● Roll to Roll Shade Board
● Accessories Joint with Body
● Test Report
● GPQ Certificate
● Packing List
● Sample Process Record
● Light Life
● Time value Record
Knitting Online QC
1. Batch Card Check
● Yarn lot
● Yarn Count
● Buyer Name
● Stitch Length Cross Check
● GSM Check
● Yarn Brand Check- Combed/Carded
2. Fabric Quality
● Loop
● Needle Brocken/ Mark
● Sinker Mark
● Count/Lot Mix
● Oil Spot/ Mark
● Set off
● Contra- Fly/Yarn
● Lycra Out

The procedure of Delivery (SOP)

● Without a test result, the company doesn’t Deliver any quantity of Fabrics.
● Without Rib/Single Jersey/ Back neck tap, no delivery.
● Any Measurable part, Like Collar & Cuff, Stripe Yarn-dyed Fabrics should be checked as
per buyer requirement.
● Inline Fabrics All test should be checked & Shrinkage CHECK from 3-4 rolls & Ensure
Acceptable tolerance

34
 ● Width ± 1”, More than needed to Approval from Related Person. Also infirm to cutting
department.
● Before Delivery must be Re-check by Shift In-charge, Width, GSM (Grams per square
meter), Shrinkage delivery report with Batch information.
● 1st Batch Shade check & crosses check for confirmation.
● All Approved shade must be keeping before dying from related Merchandiser
● All shade checks two-person avoid the wrong decision. (Keep sign)
● 1st Batch check with Booking All information, like width, GSM, Accessories & Shade
Reference.
● Every day at 1st All delivered batches should be showing to Responsible person & take
Sign
● Unacceptable Issue, not the delivery. We have committed good quality fabrics delivery
which is customer Requirement

STANDARDISATION OF QMS

ISO 9001:2008 is a quality management system (QMS) standard, first published in 1987 by ISO
(International Organization for Standardization). This standard is designed to help organizations
ensure that they meet all requirements of customers and stakeholders.
It is neither an industry nor a product-specific standard. Organizations of all sizes and types can
be certified against ISO 9001. This standard can be used by manufacturing or service providing
companies. This standard assures quality for all interested parties involved in businesses that
are certified.
ISO 9001 is defined as the international standard that specifies requirements for a ​quality
management system (QMS)​. Organizations use the standard to demonstrate the ability to
consistently provide products and services that meet customer requirements. In addition to
enhancing customer satisfaction through the effective application of the system, including
processes for continual improvement of the system and assurance of conformity to customer
and applicable statutory and regulatory requirements. ISO 9001 is considered as a key factor for
doing business in global markets and for improving competitiveness.
All requirements of ISO 9001 are generic and are intended to be applicable to all organizations,
regardless of type, size and product provided.
Quality standardization evolves with ISO 9001 by adding:
● Greater emphasis on setting the objectives, monitoring performance and metrics;
● Clearer expectations on management; and
● More careful planning for and preparing the resources needed for ensuring quality.

KNITS QUALITY MANUAL

35
This document specifies the quality management system of Knits.
The systems requirements of this manual are aimed at achieving customer satisfaction by
consistently providing conforming products and meeting or exceeding customer and applicable
regulatory requirements through the application of the system, continuous improvement and
the prevention of nonconformity.
This document ensures that any company producing Knits, adequately identifies customer
requirements, through all quality management system processes, to achieve customer
satisfaction with a closed-loop Process Model methodology.
This document applies to all or specific product/service categories and satisfies the Quality
Assurance requirements.

i. ​Design Control - Companies may or may not be into designing any product but instead, they
follow buyer specifications which are converted into patterns only.

ii. ​Validation of Process applicable or not depends. It is applicable if the company is following
any special process.

iii. ​Customer-supplied product is for those companies who receive any product from the
customer, which is incorporated into the finished product.

Process Model of QMS

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GENERAL REQUIREMENTS​ (According to the ISO Standardisation, Clause 4.1 of ISO 9001:2008)
The company must have established, documented, implemented, maintained and continually
improved a quality management system covering the requirements of the required clause (ISO
9001:2008). To implement the quality management system, the company should manage to:
a) Identify the processes needed for the quality management system
b) Determine the sequence and interaction of these processes
c) Determine criteria and methods required to ensure the effective operation and control of
these processes
d) Ensure the availability of information necessary to support the operation and monitoring of
these processes
e) Measure, monitor and analyze these processes
f) Implement actions necessary to achieve the planned results and continual improvement.
The company should manage these processes in accordance with the requirements of these
standards.
DOCUMENTATION REQUIREMENTS ​(Clause 4.2 of ISO 9001:2008)
Every company has prepared its quality management system documentation, which generally
includes:
● Quality System Manual (Clause 4.2.2 of ISO 9001:2008)
Quality System Manual is a top-level policy document outlining the structure and general
principles of the quality management system. It includes:
1. The scope of the quality system, including details of and justification for any exclusion
2. Reference to the Quality System Procedures, Work Instructions, or related
documentation
3. A description of the sequence and interaction of the processes included in the quality
management system

Quality System Manual is reviewed and approved by the Executive Director. Controlled copies
of Quality System Manual are distributed to all the concerned persons in the controlled
distribution list, given on the first page of the Quality Manual.

● Quality System Procedures

The quality system procedures are the second level quality system documents, which contains a
detailed description of how quality system requirements, as specified by ISO standard, have
been addressed and implemented in various functions of the company.
The Quality System procedures serve as an operational guide for all the concerned
departmental staff to ensure that operations are carried out in a controlled and systematic
manner as per quality system requirements. Controlled copies of Quality System Procedures
are distributed to all the concerned persons in the controlled distribution list

37
 ● Work Instructions
The work instructions are third-level quality system documents, which contain instructions for
individuals to perform routine tasks or specific functions. The work instructions are then
distributed and, where required, displayed at the related place to ensure that the activities are
performed as per instructions.
Management Representative (MR) maintains the distribution status of Work Instructions on the
Master List of Documents.

● Product Quality plans/ Inspection Matrix

Product Quality plans is a process-specific document that describes all the key operations or
processes to be carried out during the production or realization of a product and specifies what
quality requirements are to be met to ensure compliance with customer requirements.

● Reference Regulations and Standards

These include all the legal and regulatory requirements that may apply to various aspects of the
company products. These usually include Customers requirements related to the Quality of
product

● Quality records
These are fourth level quality system documents, which include records required in the Quality
System of the organization. These are properly referenced in all the relevant procedures and
include data/records such as test reports, forms, log sheets and other reports generated while
performing routine activities.
The Quality system document structure is given below:

38
Control of Documents​ (Clause 4.2.3 of ISO 9001:2008)
The organization has established a procedure for controlling documents used in its quality
management system. This control ensures that the:
● Documents are approved for adequacy prior to release
● Documents are reviewed, updated as necessary and re-approved
● Documents are identified with current revision status
● The relevant versions of documents are available at all locations where activities
essential to the effective functioning of the quality operating system and process are
performed
● Documents remain legible, readily identifiable and retrievable
● Applicable documents (regulations, notifications, etc.) of external origin are identified
and their distribution controlled.
● Obsolete documents are removed from all points of issue or use or are otherwise
controlled to prevent unintended use. Any obsolete documents retained for legal or
knowledge preservation purposes are suitably identified.

Control of Quality Records​ (Clause 4.2.4 of ISO 9001:2008)

Quality records are maintained and controlled to demonstrate conformance to requirements
and effective operation of the quality management system.
The organization establishes and maintains quality management system procedures for record
identification, storage, retrieval, protection, retention time and disposition of quality records.

MANAGEMENT RESPONSIBILITY
MANAGEMENT COMMITMENT​ (Clause 5.1 of ISO 9001:2008)
Company’s management should be fully committed to Quality and demonstrate its
commitment to the development and improvement of the quality management system by:
● Communicating at all levels in the organization the importance of meeting customers as
well as regulatory and legal requirements
● Establishing the brands quality policy and quality objectives, and ensuring that they are
deployed effectively at all functions and levels
● Performing management reviews and ensuring that quality performance is effectively
reviewed at relevant levels
● Ensuring the availability of necessary resources for the fulfilment of needed quality
standards.

CUSTOMER FOCUS​ (Clause 5.2 of ISO 9001:2008)

Company management, at appropriate levels, should determine appropriate customer needs
and requirements, and convert them into the form of defined requirements with the goal of

39
achieving customer confidence. Obligations related to the product, including regulatory and
legal requirements are properly considered while determining customer needs and
expectations.
The priority of customer focus is ensured through the order review process.
Procedure for Customer Related Process (PRO-2-007)

QUALITY POLICY​ (Clause 5.3 of ISO 9001:2008)

The company should establish its policy for quality and ensure that it:
● Provides a framework for establishing and reviewing quality objectives
● Is communicated, understood and implemented throughout the organization
● Is regularly reviewed for continuing suitability at appropriate levels of the organization.
The quality policy is the main guiding principle that provides the focus of Quality to the whole
organization. The quality policy is communicated and enforced through management reviews,
training, displays in English and the local language at appropriate locations in offices and factory
premises.
The Executive Director and Senior General Manager generally conduct regular sessions with
existing employees and new employees to ensure that quality policy is understood by all.
The quality policy is usually reviewed in the management review meetings for its continuous
suitability and improvement.
The quality policy document of any brand/company is printed on the letterhead of the
company with the approval & signature of the CEO on a particular date.

PLANNING ​(Clause 5.4 of ISO 9001:2008)

1. Quality Objectives (Clause 5.4.1 of ISO 9001:2008)
Companies must establish quality objectives at appropriate functions and levels within
the organization. These objectives are defined in measurable terms and are the
interpretation goals of policy deployment in each department.

2. Quality Planning (Clause 5.4.2 of ISO 9001:2008)

Companies must establish plans identifying the resource needed to achieve quality
objectives.

Quality planning covers the following issues:

● The processes of the quality management system, considering permissible exclusions
● The resources needed
● Continual improvement of the quality management system
Planning ensures that change is conducted in a controlled manner and that the integrity of the
quality management system is maintained during such change(s).

40
RESPONSIBILITY, AUTHORITY, AND COMMUNICATION​ (Clause 5.5 of ISO 9001:2008)
1. Responsibility and Authority (Clause 5.5.1 of ISO 9001:2008)
Functions and their interrelationships within the company includes responsibilities and
authorities that are defined and communicated in order to facilitate effective quality
management.

2. Management Representative (Clause 5.5.2 of ISO 9001:2008)

The top management has appointed the Quality Assurance Manager as the
Management Representative (MR) who, irrespective of other responsibilities, has
defined responsibility and authority for the Quality Management System, which
includes:
● Ensuring that processes of the quality management system are established and
maintained in accordance with the requirements of ISO
● Reporting to top management on the performance of the quality management
system, including needs for improvement
● Promoting awareness of customer requirements throughout the organization
● Collaborate with external parties on matters relating to the quality management
system.

3. Internal Communication (Clause 5.5.3 of ISO 9001:2008)

The company must establish and maintain a procedure for internal communication
between various levels and functions of the organization regarding the quality
management system and its effectiveness. This ensures that the quality policy, goals,
procedures, and records are properly communicated to relevant persons on time to
keep them fully aware. ​Supporting document Procedure for Internal Communication
(PRO-2-058)

MANAGEMENT REVIEW​ (Clause 5.6 of ISO 9001:2008)

1. General (Clause 5.6.1 of ISO 9001:2008)
Companies must establish a platform for management reviews. These reviews ensure the
continuing suitability, adequacy and effectiveness of the whole Quality System. The review
includes the evaluation of the need for changes to the quality management system, including
the quality policy and quality objectives.

2. Review input (Clause 5.6.2 of ISO 9001:2008)

The management reviews include periodic review of current performance and improvement
opportunities related to:
● Results of Internal and External Audit reports
● Customer feedback

41
 ● Process performance and product conformance
● Status of preventive and corrective actions
● Follow-up actions from earlier management reviews
● Changes that could affect the quality management system
● Recommendations for Improvements

3. Review output (Clause 5.6.3 of ISO 9001:2008) The outputs from management review
include actions related to:
● Improvement of the quality management system and its processes
● Improvement of product related to customer requirements
● Resource needs.
Results of management reviews are recorded.
Supporting Documentation: Procedure for Management Review Meeting (PRO-2-003)
RESOURCE MANAGEMENT
PROVISION OF RESOURCES​ (Clause 6.1 of ISO 9001:2008)
In light of the management reviews and other management controls, the top management
considers the requirements for appropriate resources and ensures that they are provided in a
timely manner. These include the resources:
● To implement and improve the processes of the quality management system and
● To address customer satisfaction

HUMAN RESOURCES​ (Clause 6.2 of ISO 9001:2008)

1. General (Clause 6.2.1 of ISO 9001:2008)
The management of human resources is considered as one of the most important processes of
the Quality Management System. The basic aim is to ensure the right person for the right job.
This includes resources for operation and improvement of the quality system and the
satisfaction of customers. Resources are the people, infrastructure, work environment,
information, suppliers and partners, and financial resources.
The company usually assigns responsibilities defined in the quality management system to
personnel ensuring that they are competent on the basis of applicable education, training, skills
and experience. Their qualification and experience data are effectively maintained.

2. Training, Awareness and Competency (Clause 6.2.2 of ISO 9001:2008)

A planning process is being implemented which ensures the proper training, awareness and
competence development of people. This planning is carried out while taking into account the
organization's processes, customers’ needs and expectations, the stages of development of
people and the culture of the organization. The objective is to provide people with knowledge
and skills which, together with experience, improve their competence and capabilities

42
Companies must establish and maintain a procedure to ensure the proper capabilities of
personnel working. This includes:
● Identification of competency needs for personnel performing activities affecting the
quality
● Providing training or take other actions to address identified needs
● Evaluating the effectiveness of the training provided
● Ensuring that employees are aware of the relevance and importance of their activities
and how they contribute to the achievement of the quality objectives
● Maintaining appropriate records of education, experience, training and qualification
Supporting Documentation: Procedure for Training (PRO-2-004)

INFRASTRUCTURE​ (Clause 6.3 of ISO 9001:2008)

The requirements for infrastructure are regularly up-dated on and when required. These
include:
● Buildings, workspace and associated facilities
● Process equipment, machines, hardware and software
● Supporting services such as transport or communication

WORK ENVIRONMENT​ (Clause 6.4 of ISO 9001:2008)

The work environment of the organization is considered an important process to manage the
quality system. In this regard, the top management ensures that a healthy, safe, and conducive
environment is maintained in each department. This includes health and safety conditions, and
ambient working conditions.

PRODUCT REALIZATION
PLANNING OF REALIZATION PROCESSES​ (Clause 7.1 of ISO 9001:2008)
The product realization processes, effective planning is carried out for product realization.
During the planning company usually determines the following:
● Requirements for the product/order
● The need to establish processes, documents, and provide resources specific to the
product
● Required verification, validation, monitoring, inspection and test activities specific to the
product and the criteria for product acceptance
● Records needed to provide the evidence that the product realization/service delivery
processes and resulting product fulfil requirements

Quality Plans are prepared for products which describe the sequence of realization processes
including:
● The verification activities

43
 ● Related control parameters
● Reference standards
● Related documentation
● Records to be maintained
​Supporting Documentation Quality Plan (QM/01/02)

CUSTOMER-RELATED PROCESSES​ (Clause 7.2 of ISO 9001:2008)

1. Determination of Requirements related to the product (Clause 7.2.1 of ISO 9001:2008)
This is based on the system designed by the company for measuring the needs of customers
and the applicable regulations specific to the products produced delivered by the brand.
The measurement of needs of customers includes:
● Requirements specified by the customer, including the requirements for delivery and
post-delivery activities
● Requirements not stated by the customer but necessary for a specific use or known and
intended use
● Statutory and regulatory requirements related to the product, and
● Any additional requirements determined by the company

2. Review of Product Requirements (Clause 7.2.2 of ISO 9001:2008)

The company usually reviews the requirements related to the product. This review is conducted
prior to the company commitment to supply a product to the customer and ensures that:
● Product requirements are clearly defined
● Where the customer provides no written statement of requirement, the order
requirements are confirmed before acceptance
● Order requirements differing from those previously expressed, e.g. in a tender or
quotation, are resolved
● Company has the ability to meet the customer requirements for the product.
The results of reviews and subsequent follow-up actions are recorded.

The company must ensure that relevant documentation is amended on changes in product
requirements. The changed requirements are communicated to all relevant personnel.

3. Customer Communication (Clause 7.2.3 of ISO 9001:2008)

Companies must define and implement effective liaison with customers, with the aim of
meeting customer requirements. The company usually defines communication requirements
relating to:
● Product information
● Enquiries and order handling, including amendments
● Customer complaints and feedback

44
Supporting Documentation Procedure for Customer Related Process (PRO-2-007)

DESIGN AND/OR DEVELOPMENT​ ​(Clause 7.3 of ISO 9001:2008)

The scope of design and development activity considers all aspects of the product and product
realization processes to ensure its conformity to requirements. This includes product
identification, handling, packaging, storage and protection during internal processing and
delivery to the customer. Product design and development planning have a focus on error
prevention rather than detection in product quality as well as product realization processes.
The plan specifies the design and development stages, activities and tasks, responsibilities,
timeline and resources, specific tests, validations, and reviews, and outcomes. The company
must identify, document and review design input requirements for function, performance,
safety, regulatory, quality, reliability, durability, life, timing, maintainability, cost, identification,
traceability, packaging, special or safety characteristics from the customer or regulatory body,
and other requirements essential to the product.
Design and development output may be product or documentation or both. Product may be a
prototype or finished product and documentation could be a computerized or hardcopy
drawing or specification.

PURCHASING​ (Clause 7.4 of ISO 9001:2008)

1. Purchasing Process (Clause 7.4.1 of ISO 9001:2008)
It is ensured that effective and efficient purchasing processes are defined and implemented for
the evaluation and control of purchased products, in order that purchased products satisfy the
organization’s needs and requirements. The company must control its purchasing processes to
ensure purchased product or service(s) conform to purchase requirements. The type and extent
of control are dependent on the effect of the purchased product and/or service(s) upon the
final product.
The company usually evaluates and selects suppliers based upon their ability to supply product
and/or services in accordance with their requirements. Evaluation and selection criteria for
suppliers are established. The results of evaluations and subsequent follow-up actions are
recorded.

2. Purchasing Information (Clause 7.4.2 of ISO 9001:2008)

Purchasing documentation contains information clearly describing the product and/or
service(s) ordered. Company reviews and approves purchasing documents for the adequacy of
the specification of requirements prior to release. Records of purchasing activities are
maintained.

3. Verification of Purchased Product (Clause 7.4.3 of ISO 9001:2008)

45
The company determines and implements the inspection or other activities necessary for
ensuring that the purchased product meets the specified requirements.
Where the company or its customer proposes to perform verification activities at the supplier's
premises, the company specifies the required verification arrangements and method of product
release in the purchasing documentation.
Supporting Documentation Procedure for Purchasing & Supplier Evaluation (PRO-2-008 &
PRO-2-003)

PRODUCTION PROVISION​ (Clause 7.5 of ISO 9001:2008)

1. Control of Production Provision (Clause 7.5.1 of ISO 9001:2008)
Company plans and carries out the production and service provision activities under controlled
conditions. Controlled conditions include:
● Availability of specifications that define the characteristics of the product
● Availability of work specifications
● Use and maintenance of suitable equipment
● Availability and use of suitable measuring and monitoring equipment
● Implementation of suitable monitoring and measurement activities
● Implementation of defined processes for release, delivery and post-delivery activities.

2. Validation of Processes (Clause 7.5.2 of ISO 9001:2008)

The organization shall validate any processes for production and service provision where the
resulting output cannot be verified by subsequent monitoring or measurement. Validation
shall demonstrate the ability of these processes to achieve planned results.
The organization shall establish arrangements for these processes including, as applicable,
● Defined criteria for review and approval of the processes,
● Approval of equipment and qualification of personnel,
● Use of specific methods and procedures,
● Requirements for records
● Revalidation.

3. Identification and Traceability (Clause 7.5.3 of ISO 9001:2008)

The company makes provision for identifying the status of products, where applicable, by
suitable means throughout product realization. The status of the product with respect to
measurement and monitoring requirements is identified during all stages of production and
service provision. Also to ensure traceability of products, the unique identification of products
or their batches are controlled and recorded.

4. Customer Property (Clause 7.5.4 of ISO 9001:2008)

46
The company takes necessary measures to ensure that any customer property which is under
their control or being used or incorporated by the company in its products are properly
safeguarded. The control measures include identification, verification, segregation, protection
and safeguarding customer property provided for use or incorporation into the product or
services.
In case of loss or damage to supplier property, it is immediately reported to the supplier and
related records are maintained.

5. Preservation of Product (Clause 7.5.5 of ISO 9001:2008)

The company usually ensures that during internal processing and final delivery of the product
to the intended destination, the conformity of the product with requirements is maintained.
This includes product identification, packaging, storage, preservation and handling. This also
applies to accessories of the product.
Supporting Documentation Work Instructions

CONTROL OF MEASURING AND MONITORING DEVICES​ (Clause 7.6 of ISO 9001:2008)

In order to provide confidence in the measurement data, the measuring and monitoring
processes include confirmation that the devices are fit for use and are maintained to suitable
accuracy and accepted standards, as well as a means of identifying the status of the devices. All
measuring and monitoring equipment used for verification of products and for monitoring
processes are regularly calibrated and/or checked. A list of such equipment is maintained.
The equipment is calibrated in accordance with an approved written calibration schedule.
Calibration standards are traceable to recognized national/international standards.
Complete calibration records are documented and maintained. Records are evaluated
periodically to ascertain the adequacy of calibration, inspection levels and calibration methods
in use.
All measuring and test equipment are identified with a tag, sticker, marking or other suitable
identification to indicate their calibration status. If it is not possible to put an identification
mark, the calibration status is recorded on an appropriate quality document, which is traceable
through an indexing system.
Where equipment is found to be defective or out of calibration, the results of the previous
inspections are reviewed and appropriate action is taken. All equipment is safeguarded to avoid
unauthorized adjustments and calibration.
Supporting Documentation Procedure for Calibration & Equipment Maintenance (PRO-2-011)

MONITORING & IMPROVEMENT

GENERAL​ (Clause 8.1 of ISO 9001:2008)

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Company plans and implements monitoring, measurement, analysis and improvements
processes needed: To demonstrate the conformity of product To ensure conformity of the
quality management system and, To continually improve the effectiveness of the quality
management system. This includes the determination of the need for and use of applied
statistical techniques.

MEASUREMENT AND MONITORING​ (Clause 8.2 of ISO 9001:2008)

1. Customer Satisfaction (Clause 8.2.1 of ISO 9001:2008)
Companies must determine and establish processes for monitoring information on customer
satisfaction and/or dissatisfaction to assess whether they have met the customer requirements.
The methods and measures for obtaining this information and its use are defined in the
relevant procedures. Supporting Documentation

2. Internal Audit (Clause 8.2.2 of ISO 9001:2008)

The internal audit process acts as a management tool for an independent assessment of any
designated process or activity. The internal audit process provides an independent tool for use
in obtaining objective evidence that the existing requirements have been met. Companies
establish a process for performing internal audits in order to determine if the quality
management system:
● Conforms to the requirements of this international standard
● Has been effectively implemented and maintained
The company plans an audit program, which is based on the status and importance of the
activities, areas or items to be audited, and the results of previous audits.

The company must document and implement an internal audit that covers the audit scope,
frequency and methodologies, as well as the responsibilities, requirements for conducting
audits, recording and reporting results to management. Audits are performed by personnel
other than those who performed the work being audited. The management of the company
should take timely corrective actions on deficiencies found during the audit. Follow up actions
include the verification of the implementation of corrective action and the reporting of
verification results.
Supporting Documentation Procedure for Internal Auditing (PRO-2-012)

3. Measurement and Monitoring of Processes (Clause 8.2.3 of ISO 9001:2008)

The company must apply suitable methods for measurement and monitoring of processes
necessary to meet customer requirements and to demonstrate the processes continuing ability
to satisfy its intended purpose. In the case of non-conformance with the planned result,
correction and corrective action are taken to ensure conformity of the product.

48
 4. Measurement and Monitoring of Product (Clause 8.2.4 of ISO 9001:2008)
The company applies suitable methods for measurement and monitoring of the characteristics
of the product to verify that requirements for the product are met. This is carried out at
appropriate stages of the product realization process in accordance with the quality plan or
other planned arrangements. Evidence of implementation of required measurement and
monitoring and conformance with the acceptance criteria used is recorded.
The product does not proceed to the next stage or is not dispatched until all specified activities
have been satisfactorily completed and the related documentation is available and authorized.
Supporting Documentation Procedure for Inspection System​. Inspection Status And Control Of
Non-Conformance Related To Fabric, Garments And Accessories (PRO-02-25)

CONTROL OF NONCONFORMITY​ (Clause 8.3 of ISO 9001:2008)

The company ensures products that do not conform to requirements are controlled to prevent
unintended use or delivery. The controls and related responsibilities and authorities for dealing
with nonconforming products are defined and documented.
The nonconforming products are dealt within any of the following ways:
● By taking actions to eliminate the detected nonconformity
● By authorizing its use, release or acceptance under concession by the relevant authority
and, where required, by the supplier
● By taking actions to preclude its original intended use or application
Records of the nature of nonconformity and any subsequent actions taken are maintained. Any
nonconforming product that has been corrected is subjected to re-verification to ensure
conformity to the requirements. In case the nonconformity is detected after delivery, the
company takes action appropriate to the effects, or potential effects, of the nonconformity.
Supporting Documentation Procedure for Inspection, Inspection Status and Control of
Non-Conformance (PRO-02-25)

ANALYSIS OF DATA​ (Clause 8.4 of ISO 9001:2008)

The company collects and analyzes appropriate data to evaluate the suitability and
effectiveness of the quality management system and to identify areas for continual
improvement. This includes data generated by measuring and monitoring activities and other
relevant sources. Decisions based on facts are based on the effective and efficient use of
appropriate statistical techniques. The analysis of data provides information on:
● Customer satisfaction and/or dissatisfaction
● Conformance to customer requirements
● Characteristics of processes and products and their trends
● Suppliers

IMPROVEMENT​ (Clause 8.5 of ISO 9001:2008)

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 1. Continual improvement (Clause 8.5.1 of ISO 9001:2008)
The company continually strives to continually improve the effectiveness of the quality
management system through the use of quality policy, quality objectives, audit results, analysis
of data, corrective and preventive action and management review. The quality objectives are
upgraded gradually on a routine basis for improving the performance of different departments.

2. Corrective Action (Clause 8.5.2 of ISO 9001:2008)

The company takes action to eliminate the causes of nonconformities in order to prevent a
recurrence. The extents of corrective actions taken depend on the impact of the problems
encountered. The procedure for the corrective action process includes:
● Identification and review of nonconformities (including customer complaints)
● Determination of causes of nonconformities
● Evaluation of the need for actions to ensure that nonconformities do not recur
● Determination and Implementation of any actions necessary to ensure that
nonconformities do not recur
● Recording results of actions taken
● A follow-up to ensure corrective action taken is effective and recorded.

3. Preventive Action (Clause 8.5.3 of ISO 9001:2008)

The company determines actions to eliminate the causes of potential nonconformities in order
to prevent their occurrence. The extent of preventive actions depends on the impact of
potential problems. The procedure addresses:
● Identification of potential nonconformities and their causes
● Determination and ensuring the implementation of preventive action
● Recording of results of action taken
● Review of preventive action taken is effective and recorded.
Supporting Documentation Procedure for Continual Improvement ( PRO-02-30)

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 JOB DESCRIPTIONS, ROLES & RESPONSIBILITIES OF CONCERNED AUTHORITIES
DURING QUALITY CONTROL

1. Job Responsibility of Assistant General Manager (Quality & Product Development)

● Planning & Monitoring of Production Target.
● Ensure that the Quality Standard is being met by Forecasting & reviewing the result.
● Develop Discipline, by implementing the Rules & Regulation in the Department.
● Ensure acceptable Quality level (AQL) in textile manner.
● Give continuous guidance to the Executive, along with others for target fabric
specification.
● Supervision constantly to Grey & Final QC.
● Give full support to the Research & Development Department.
● Make a continuous study of work improvement & give a report to the higher authority.
● Response & act in customer complaints & query.
● Ensure that all safety followed by the team.
● Continuously study the Cost saving of the Department.
● Enthusiastic to wastage utilization.
● Optimize Manpower Utilization.
● Worker Turnover & Absenteeism control as per Plan.
● Skill Development in the Floor.
● Ensure that all Lab test Reports (Physical) are recorded.
● Follow the concept of Top Management.
● Regularly held a meeting to all people once in a week/ Time to time.

51
 ● Coordination with all departments, all quality parameters inform time to time all
departments.
● Check the hold fabric & give the decision quickly.

Asst. Manager (GPQ)

● Ensure the delivery target with Quality
● RQS Audit
● The urgency of H&M
● Sample (All Buyer)
● Company GPQ Audits
● Company Related Quality Issue
● Hold Fabric inspection & Take decision immediately
● All Audit Record & Keeping Documents
● Audit-Related all points need to be check & Confirm available as Buyer Requirement
● FTD Approval ensure & Product Match with FTD
● Give Training as buyer requirements
● Ensure the quality Standard which is delivered

Asst. Manager (QAD)

● Planning & Monitoring of Delivery Target
● All Buyer fabrics inspection Without H&M
● Fulfil the buyer wise quality requirement
● Ensure the delivery target with Quality
● Hold Fabric Take decision immediately
● Inline fabrics ensure Quality Requirement
● Ensure the 4 point system reporting
● Grey fabric inspection & give a decision
● Ensure the good housekeeping
● Manpower utilize
● Recruited

Executive (GPQ)
● Mainly GPQ Responsible
● All sample check
● Ensure the buyer requirement
● Ensure the testing requirement
● Yarn test
● Support to PP Sample
● FTD Approval

52
 ● Resource & Development
● On-time delivery with Quality
● Keep record Sample inspection & Yarn test

Senior Executive (Shade)

● Confirm the Shade as buyer concept
● Approval was taken from Buyer
● Within short time shade confirm & Feedback to production
● All Lab dip take from Lab Then Confirm with Related Merchandiser
● Keep all approval Swatch

Shift In-charge (Inspection)

● Fulfil the delivery target with quality
● Requirement wise delivery width, gsm shrinkage, Spirality & All Accessories (Rib, Collar
& Cuff, Back neck tap)
● Check process loss
● All testing confirm then delivered
● Return for reprocess Dyeing & Finish, Keep Record
● Ensure the good housekeeping

Data Entry Operators

● Make Reports- inspection, Compact, Hand folding, Inspection M/c
● Handover Record
● Reprocess (Dyeing & Finishing)
● Return to Dyeing & Finishing
● Order Summary
● Reject

Executive (GPQ)
● Ensure Audit-Related all documents
● Uster Yarn Report
● Yarn test Report
● MR Ensure the Fulfil Buyer Requirement
● Order Sheet
● Shade Continuity Card
● GSM Record
● Inspection Report
● Fabrics delivered with test & Necessary documents
● Handle the Buyer

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 SUPPORTING DOCUMENTS AND FILES

GPQ (Sample)
● All Sample
● Yarn test
● Uster Report
● FTD approval Ensure
● Keep record Sample inspection & Yarn test
● Keep File (Knitting, Dyeing & Finishing)

Company Sample Documents File Keeping (Buyer Requirement)

● FTD
● Knitting Data
● Grieg Swatch
● Dyeing Recipe
● Program Route
● Finishing parameter
● Test Report
● Inspection Report
● Uster Report
● Yarn Test Report
● Booking Sheet

Summary Sheet Production Documents keep in the file

● Booking Sheet
● Order Sheet
● Risk Assessment Sheet
● Counter Sample comments copy
● FTD Sample Comments copy
● Inspection Report (4 Points)
● Packing List
● GPQ Certificate
● Lab Test Report
● Summary sheet

Online Inspection Point

● Shade Give to LightBox for Approved

54
 ● Hand feel & Hairiness Check with FTD
● 10% Rolls check table, Running Shade/Uneven
● Naps, Hole, Patta Check, Line/Sinker Mark
● Width & GSM confirm with Requirement
● Within ½ inch pin in Selvage more than infirm to Finishing
● Give to one-meter fabrics Laboratory for Test, Shrinkage/Fastness
● Check accessories available or not (Rib, Collar & Cuff)
● Check Measurement if Required Like Stripe Fabrics
● Information should be written down in Batch Card Clearly & Online inspection Loge
book
● If any unacceptable must be infirm to Shift In-charge

Inspection Machine Point

● First Check online information
● Two-person Maximum two hours continue the inspection
● Note in Register logbook which person inspection with sign
● 4 point system follows
● Machine Speed Light Color 16/18 & dark Color 18/20 RPM
● Lux value 1000+ & Light Expired time one year or 1300 hours which is 1st valid

Compact & Inspection M/c before starting Ensure the below issue
● Shade
● Running shade
● Dia ±
● GSM ±
● Enzyme Dust
● Hairiness
● Shrinkage
● Spirality
● Bowing
● Angle
● Any Measurable issue, Stripe
● Accessories available with match (Rib, Collar & Cuff)
In case of any problem, first, make a decision then start m/c otherwise hold

Out of 4 point System

1. Running Shade
2. Patta, Line Mark
3. Lycra Missing

55
 4. Hairiness
5. Naps
6. Uneven
7. GSM issue
8. Width short/ Long
9. Brush Problem
Only need to take decision Major or minor

Impotent Sample
● Counter Sample
● PP Sample (Pre-production)
● Inline
● Quotation Sample
● Photo Sample
● Development Sample
● Yarn Test
● Colour Sample
● First Fit Sample
● Chemical Test
● Style Sample

Need available in QAD Department

● Lab Dip
● Counter/PP Sample
● Original Swatch
● Fabric Technical Data/FTD
● Booking Sheet

Record Keeping in Department

● Shade Continuity
● Every Rolls Shade Brand
● Every Rolls GSM Cutting
● 4 points System
● Lab Test Report
● Accessories Match Keeping

Sample Record Keeping

● Order Sheet
● Standard Swatch

56
● Shade Card
● Inspection Report (4 Point System)
● One Meter Fabrics
● Accessories Match Keeping
● Send mail to the related person
● Uster Report(Accuracy of yarn count put to test)

Machinery Used

1. ST KFIM

ST-KFIM is suitable for knit fabric inspection &

also can inspect the woven fabric. A-frame &
conveyor belt system is present here. Auto
tension checking system is present here. It’s
working speed 5-40 m/min. In this machine
different fabric input & output Presentation is
available.

2. ST-SFIM

ST-SFIM is a universal fabric inspection machine but

ideal for knitted fabric. It’s working speed 0-100
m/min. Auto tension checking system is present here.
A-frame & conveyor belt system is present here. It can
inspect fabric with a 30 degrees fixed angle inspection
screen. In this machine, different fabric input &
output Presentation is available.

57
 3. ST-TFSM

ST-TFSM is used to slit & open for tubular knitted

fabrics. It is an automatic one for fabric rope. Its
doubling speed is 0-80 m/min. Maximum rope
diameter 800 m.

4. Stenter Machine

The purpose of the Stenter machine is to bring the length and width to predetermined
dimensions and also for heat
setting and it is used for
applying finishing chemicals
and also shade variation is
adjusted. The main function
of the Stenter is to stretch the
fabric widthwise and to
recover the uniform width.

SOP Stenter Machine:

Batch card

● Check buyer, Dia, Gauge, Stitch Length, Required GSM

● Match with Standard Parameter Sheet

Parameter

● Set Temperature, Width, Overfeed, Speed as a Standard Parameter Sheet.

● If it doesn’t match with the Standard Parameter Sheet then inform Shift head.
● Prepare softener as the buyer standard

58
Manpower

● Set manpower, back one person at the operation side and delivery area
● Recheck set parameter & Standard Parameter

Check

● Temperature, Air Pressure & water setup must be maintained

● Start machine
● Check after delivery for GSM, Width, Handfeel & shade. Check if these are according to
the buyer standards.

QUALITY-RELATED IMPORTANT SHORTCUTS

QAD​- Quality Assurance Department
GPQ​- Guideline for Production & Quality Control of Material
GSM​- Grams per Square Meter
QC​- Quality Controller
NQC​- Nominated Quality Controller
SOP​- Standard Operating Procedure
CMC​- Color Measurement Clarification
CVC​- Chief Value of Cotton
FTD​- Fabrics Technical Data
RQS​- Requirement for Quality System
QMS​- Quality Management System
MMR​- Minimum Manufacturing Requirement
TQM​- Total Quality Management
QA​- Quality Assurance
ISO​- International Organization for Standardization
EPZ​- Export Processing Zone
HR​- Human Resources
TBC​- To be Confirmed
AOP​- Allover Print
PC​- Polyester of Cotton

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CIL​- Coefficient of Luminous Intensity
Mcd​- Millicandela
AQL​- Acceptable Quality Level

REFERENCES

1. A quality control system in garments. Available at:

https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/08/quality-control-system-in-garments_2589.
html​ ​(Accessed on 5th April 2020)

2. AQL. Available at:

​https://blog.aqiservice.com/acceptable-quality-level-aql-garment-inspection/
(Accessed on 5th April 2020)

3. Fabric Inspection. Available at:

​https://textilestudycenter.com/fabric-inspection/​ (Accessed on 10th April 2020)

4. Work safety risk assessments & standards. Available at:

https://www.textileschool.com/153/work-safety-risk-assessments-and-standards/
(Accessed on 10th April 2020)

5. Quality control manual of garments. Available at:

https://ordnur.com/garments-2/quality-control-manual-of-garments/
(Accessed on 11th April 2020)

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 6. Quality manual, quality procedures and quality standards of top apparel brands.
Available at:
https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2013/02/quality-manuals-quality-procedures-an
d.html​ (Accessed on 11th April 2020)

7. Fabric Inspection machines. Available at:

https://www.iigm.in/Industries/Apparel/Cutting-Fusing/Fabric-Inspection/Br​ (Accessed
on 13th April 2020)

8. Knitted fabric defects & remedies. Available at:

https://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2016/12/knitted-fabric-defects-remedies.html
(Accessed on 15th April 2020)

 
 

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