AUTEX Research Journal, Vol. 19, No 3, September 2019, DOI: 10.

1515/aut-2018-0042 © AUTEX

PARAMETERIZATION OF SEERSUCKER WOVEN FABRICS USING LASER TECHNIQUES

Łukasz Frącczak1, Domagała Rafał1, Zgórniak Piotr1, Małgorzata Matusiak2

1
Faculty of Mechanical Engineering, Institute of Machine Tools and Production Engineering, Lodz University of Technology, Lodz, Poland
2
Faculty of Material Technologies and Textile Design, Institute of Architecture of Textiles, Lodz University of Technology, Lodz, Poland

Abstract:

Seersucker woven fabrics are increasingly used in the textile industry. Unfortunately, their popularity is limited due
to the lack of standards and parameterization of their structure. Thus, the designer of the finished product (clothing,
bedding, or decorative items) has problems with ordering a fabric with a specific structure and properties. In this
context, it is necessary to parameterize them. This paper presents a method for measuring the surface geometry
of seersucker woven fabrics using laser techniques. The surface geometry of the seersucker woven fabric was
determined using adapted roughness parameters, such as Wz, Ra, and Rz, as well as by using a hypsometric map.

Keywords:

seersucker woven fabrics, surface geometry, laser scanning, parameterization

1. Introduction Seersucker woven fabrics are increasingly used in different

Nowadays, the technology of 3D fabrics is developing
dynamically. Three-dimensional fabrics are defined as fabrics
having a third dimension in the form of thickness of the layer [1].
There are different definitions and different classifications of 3D
fabrics. The classification proposed by Khokar [2] is based on
the method of the 3D fabrics’ manufacture. It distinguishes five
groups of the 3D woven fabrics manufactured using 2D weaving
(four groups) and 3D weaving (one group). Seersucker woven
fabrics can be considered as an example of 3D woven fabrics.
Some researchers classify them as 2D+ woven structures.
There is also an opinion that the structure of the seersucker
woven fabrics is 2D, but at the time of weaving, the used
technological parameters facilitate the creation of fabric with
some 3D effect. Due to this fact, the seersucker woven fabric
cannot be classified as a pure 3D fabric. However, taking into
account the definition of 3D textile structures, the seersucker
woven fabrics have a third dimension – thickness – which
cannot be neglected. This type of fabric is increasingly used in
the textile industry. The seersucker fabrics are manufactured
using different methods, e.g., using chemical processes, using
yarns with different degrees of elasticity in the weft direction,
or created as a result of varying yarn tension in the warp [3–5].
In the latter case, some parts of the warp threads have
significantly less tension than the remaining parts of the warp
threads. It causes the length of the worked fabric threads of
lower tension to be much higher than the length of warp threads
of higher tension. The excessive length of the less-tensioned
warp threads causes the puckering of the part of fabric created
by these threads, whereas the part of fabric created by the
more-tensioned warp threads has a flat surface. As a result,
the puckered and flat strips occur on the fabric surface in the
warp direction. Such a kind of puckering of the fabric surface is
called the seersucker effect.
applications. They are applied as decorative fabrics, but
increasingly often, they are used in the clothing industry. In
clothing made of seersucker woven fabrics, the geometry of
the seersucker effect has a significant influence on perceptible
comfort. It is due to the fact that the geometry of the seersucker
effect influences the amount of fabric surface directly adhering
to the human body. In the same way, the geometry of the
seersucker effect influences the amount of air between the
clothing surface and the human skin. It influences further
parameters of clothing, such as air permeability, water vapor
permeability, thermal resistance, and many other factors related
to comfort. Taking these into consideration, it is very important
to parameterize the geometry of the seersucker fabrics
correctly, from which it will be possible to analyze precisely the
properties of these unconventional fabrics in relation to their
geometrical structure.
At present, irregularities in smooth textile surfaces can be
measured using contact and noncontact methods [6–11]. One
of the most popular of the friction- and roughness-measuring
instruments is the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics
(KES-FB4) module [6, 9, 11]. This system uses the contact
method to assess the surface properties of textile materials.
Because the seersucker woven fabrics in their puckered parts
are deformed even with a slight touch, the use of this device
can cause a large measurement error in the results.
Therefore, it is necessary to use noncontact measurement
methods for assessment of the surface properties of the
seersucker woven fabrics. Talysurf CLI-500 is one such
measuring device [12]. It is a measuring system designed for
precise surface measurements. Vik and Vikova [13] applied
the Talysurf 500 system to measure the topography of 3D
textile printing in the form of Braille symbols. The aim of this
work was to make communication between blind people and
the world easier through the symbols applied on the apparel

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AUTEX Research Journal, Vol. 19, No 3, September 2019, DOI: 10.1515/aut-2018-0042 © AUTEX
and textile. Among others, the authors stated that in the case
of absolute resolution, the Talysurf system was five times
worse than the LEXT confocal microscope. Nevertheless, the
final resolution of this system was sufficient for the purpose
of the investigations. It was also stated that the results from
the Talysurf were affected by flexibility and less by reflectance
of textiles [13]. Mooneghi et al. [14] analyzed the different
methods of evaluating the surface roughness of textile fabrics.
On the basis of literature review, they listed the advantages
and disadvantages of 17 different methods. Additionally, the
authors defined some important parameters characterizing
the surface of textile materials, such as woven, knitted, and
nonwoven fabrics.
Matusiak and Fracczak [15] used laser scanning to determine
the surface characteristics of seersucker woven fabrics. They
analyzed seersucker fabrics with the seersucker effect in both
warp and weft directions. The authors stated that in the case
of the seersucker woven fabrics, the surface measurement
should contain at least one full repeat of the seersucker effect
in the warp direction and one full repeat of weave in the weft
direction [15]. They elaborated a preliminary proposal of a
measurement method for assessment of the surface geometry
of seersucker woven fabrics using laser scanning [15–17]. In
this method, a laser scanner was used to generate the scanned
point cloud representing the fabric surface and to transform the
point cloud into the fabric surface simulation. In the next step
of the proposed method, straight lines were projected onto the
simulated seersucker surface in the warp and weft directions.
In this way, curves reflecting the topography of the seersucker
fabrics were obtained. Then, the curves containing information
about the shape of the fabric surface were established in order
to determine the parameter Wz. This measurement method is
affected by errors caused by the successive steps of surface
processing and the generation of the curve showing the outline
of the surface of the seersucker fabric. Another disadvantage of
this method is its time consumption, as most of the operations
are performed manually. Therefore, we decided to improve
this method by accelerating the parametric assessment of the
fabric’s geometry.
2. Experimental
The aim of the presented work was to elaborate a modified
method for the assessment of the surface geometry of
seersucker woven fabrics using 3D laser scanning. The
elaborated procedure was applied for determination of the
geometrical parameters of the seersucker woven fabric made
of cotton.
2.1. Material
In order to elaborate the modified method for assessment of the
surface parameters of the seersucker woven fabric, the cotton
fabric was subjected to a predetermined share of puckered
strips in the warp direction (Figure 1).
The basic parameters of the seersucker woven fabric applied
in the present work are shown in Table 1.
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Figure 1. Picture of the seersucker fabric analyzed in the experiment.
Table 1. Basic structural parameters of the investigated seersucker
woven fabrics
Value
Parameter Unit
Sample 1
Warp I – 20 tex × 2 cotton
Warp II – 20 tex × 2 cotton
Weft – 20 tex × 2 cotton
Weave–warp I – Plain
Weave–warp II – Rib 2/2
Warp density cm –1
25.2
Weft density cm–1 22.9
2.2. Method used
In the new method, the manner of fabric scanning was
modified. First, the fabric was spread on a flat table, smoothing
it slightly, and then pressed on the edges with two elements
that were positioned along the weft and the warp (Figure 2).
Then, the ends of the specimen were blocked with magnetic
holders in order to avoid an accidental displacement of the
fabric. It should be mentioned here that in the case of the
elastic fabrics, the fabrics should be subjected to certain
amount of pre-tension. But in the present work, the fabrics
were nonelastic. Their dimensions were stable. Due to this fact,
blocking the fabrics’ edges by magnetic holders was sufficient
to obtain correct results, because the elasticity effect did not
occur. The fabric prepared in such a way was scanned using a
scanning set consisting of the “CimCore Infinity 2” measuring
arm with the ScanWorks v4i scanning head. The measurement
was performed under standard laboratory conditions. The
measuring stand is shown in Figure 2.
The scanning was performed at 30 Hz frequency, and 100% of
the points projected onto the surface of the scanned fabric were
recorded. Optimal scanning parameters were obtained using
the “autoexopsure” function. The acquisition of points from the
fabric was carried out in a repeated manner, by collecting points
twice in two mutually perpendicular directions (in the directions
of the warp and the weft). Furthermore, attention was paid to
possible problems related to determining the position of the
fabric on the table and eliminating any discontinuities in the
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obtained point clouds (by additional scanning of the fabric at
selected locations).
The exemplary raw data of the scanned fabric are shown in
Figure 3a. Then, the scans were processed using the GeoMagic
software. All the scans were combined into one point cloud with
about 7 million points. The surfaces of the positioning elements
and the table were used for creation of planes that were next
applied to determine the coordinate system associated with
the scanned fabric. The coordinate system was determined in
such a way that the Z-axis coincided with the thickness of the
seersucker fabric (puckered elements), the Y-axis coincided
with the direction of the weft, while the X-axis coincided with the
direction of the warp. Then, all points that were not related to
the fabric were rejected. The effect of this process is shown in
Figure 3b. In further stages of data processing, tools were used
to eliminate points of high noise and to delete unnecessary
points.
In order to limit the number of points and improve the quality
of the scanned point cloud, the following GeoMagic functions
were used: “select disconnected components” and “select
Figure 2. Scanning stand for the seersucker fabrics: a) general view; b)
scanning process.
a)
Figure 3. A cloud of scanned fabric points: a) raw data; b) scan of fabric after data processing.
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outliers” (the function search for the most mismatched points
in the point cloud). The sensitivity value for these functions was
set at 66.67%. Next, the maximum distance between the points
was estimated, which was 0.18 mm for the selected fabric; the
average distance between the points was 0.042 mm and the
standard deviation was 0.03 mm. Based on these data, it was
decided that the threshold to cut off noisy points (this is the
minimum distance that a given point has from the other points
at which the point is considered to be not matching with the
point cloud) will be 0.05 mm.
In this way, the number of points was reduced to around 2
million. It should be emphasized that when comparing point
clouds from before analysis and after analysis, the noise
between the data points was determined at the level of ±
0.05 mm.
The point cloud obtained in the described manner was
imported into the MATLAB R2017 software, using which the
topography of the fabric was analyzed. In order to speed up
the calculations, the total point cloud was additionally cut to the
dimensions shown in Figure 4a.
Then, a 50  mm × 50  mm fragment (Figure 4b) was selected
from the scanned fabric so that the fabric geometry could be
further analyzed. The selection of the fragment was made
Figure 4. Scanned fabric: a) scanning range 80 mm along the weft and
200 mm (from 30 to 230 mm) toward the warp; b) selected fragment
with side lengths 50 mm × 50 mm.
b)
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in such a way that in the weft direction, the analyzed fabric
sample starts from the beginning of the puckered stripe and,
in the warp direction, at the beginning of the full repeat of the
seersucker effect (Figure 4a). Determination of the beginning
of the measurement sample in the warp direction is purely
subjective, because in the discussed seersucker fabric, it is
very difficult to determine the beginning point of the wave of
the seersucker effect. The puckered places of the fabric along
the puckered strips are distributed randomly and unevenly
(Figure 1).
For the presented example, the testing sample begins around
75 mm toward the warp and around 10 mm in the weft direction.
Figure 4b shows the selected fragment of the scanned fabric that
has been subjected to geometrical analysis. In the presented
fragment, the individual scanning lines are clearly visible in the
directions of both the warp and the weft. It can also be seen
that practically the entire surface is covered with measurement
points (in total, the point cloud of this fragment consists of
296,848 measurement points), except for some fragments
found on rising or falling surfaces that form the bumps. This is
due to the fact that the laser scanner was perpendicular to the
fabric and, when a surface with a large angle of inclination was
scanned, much less laser rays fell on it.
To evaluate the parametric geometry of the seersucker fabric,
the Wz parameter proposed by Matusiak and Frącczak [15] was
used. It was determined on the basis of the difference between
the highest peak and the deepest valley in a given measurement
range and is expressed by means of the following relationship:
∑ (H
5
max − H min )
Wz = i =1
(1)
5
where
Similar analysis was also carried out using the MATLAB
software. However, instead of the generated lines, the point
cloud obtained from scanning was used to analyze in this
stage of the investigations. From this point cloud, strips with a
width of about 0.1 mm were cut (Figure 5) in such a way that
the distance between the beginning edges of two consecutive
strips was 1 mm. Each strip was divided into five measurement
ranges. Then, for each of these strips, the measurement points,
namely, the highest and the lowest in a given measurement
range, were found. In this way, the value of the Wz parameter
for the points lying along one narrow (0.1 mm width) strip was
calculated using Equation (1).
3. Results and discussion
The results of the calculations are presented in Figure 6. The
average value of Wz for all strips in the direction of the weft was
Wz weft = 0.56 mm, while in the warp direction, Wz warp = 0.68; the
average value for all lines was Wz average = 0.64 mm.
The other parameters for this fabric are described as follows:
Ra – it is the average value of height of all points in relation to
the fabric thickness:
1 n
Ra = ∑ z − zn
n i =1
, (2)
where
1 n
z= ∑ zn
n i =1
, (3)

Hmax – the value of the highest peak in a given measurement

interval, and Hmin – the value of the deepest valley in a given
measurement range.

The value of Wz– according to the definition – refers only to a

single curve, whereas the fabric is spatial. Considering this, for
the seersucker woven fabric at work [14], the line was projected
onto the surface of the fabric and several dozen lines were
analyzed in the warp and weft directions. The width of the fabric
part with the lines was determined in such a way as to cover
the entire repeat of the seersucker effect and was determined Figure 6. The value of Wz for individual lines: 1 – along the thread;
separately for each of the analyzed directions. 2 – along the warp.

a) b)

Figure 5. Narrow strips cut from a point cloud to analyze the Wz parameter: a) along the warp; b) along the weft.

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AUTEX Research Journal, Vol. 19, No 3, September 2019, DOI: 10.1515/aut-2018-0042 © AUTEX
where zn is the height of a given measurement point. For the
analyzed sample, Ra = 0.32 mm.
Wmin, Wmax – the minimum and maximum heights of the fabric.
The point cloud representing the fabric scan was set in such a
way that the lowest scanned point had a value of zero; thus,
Wmin = 0, while Wmax = 2.35 mm.
The next stage of the analysis was to check the quantitative
allocation of points to the individual height ranges of the
seersucker woven fabric. For this purpose, it was decided to
divide the investigated seersucker fabric into intervals with a
height of 0.2 mm. The results of this analysis are presented in
Figures 7 and 8. The analysis showed that the most numerous
interval is in the range of 1.0–1.2 mm. However, most points
were in the range of 0.6–1.4 mm.
Based on the measurements carried out, it can be concluded
that for the fabric being tested, the distance between the lowest
point and the highest point was 2.35 mm. In turn, the value of the
Wz parameter changes depending on the analyzed direction:
for the warp direction, it varied from 0.11 mm to 1.52 mm, with
an average value of 0.68 mm, while in the weft direction, the
a) b)
d) e)
g) h)
j) k)
Figure 7. Hypsometric maps showing the distribution of the fabric measurement points in terms of individual height ranges (data in mm): a) 0–0.2,
b) 0.2–0.4, c) 0.4–0.6, d) 0.6–0.8, e) 0.8–1.0, f) 1.0–1.2, g) 1.2–1.4, h) 1.4–1.6, i) 1.6–1.8), j) 1.8–2.0, k) 2.0–2.2, and l) 2.2–2.4.
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variability was smaller and ranged from 0.45 mm to 0.76 mm,
with an average value of 0.56 mm. The average value of the Wz
parameter for the whole fabric was 0.64 mm.
As we can see, the parameter showed high variability depending
on the direction in which it was measured (Figure 6). In the
warp direction, it resembles a sinusoidal shape. This is due to
the fact that the full seersucker effect repeat consists of one
puckered strip and one flat strip. The values of the Wz parameter
for both kinds of strips are different. This was also stated in
a preliminary investigation [15]. It is worth emphasizing that
the maximum value of the Wz parameter occurred in regions
where the height of puckering was the highest; therefore, we
can determine this value as the maximum puckering effect in
a given measurement range. It is also worth noting that the
“measurement lines” were spaced apart from each other, every
1 mm. Therefore, it was additionally possible to approximately
determine the actual width of the flat and puckered strips,
which were 11 mm and 15 mm, respectively.
As can be seen on the hypsometric maps (Figure 7k and j),
higher puckered places can occur in different parts of the
measurement surface. On the other hand, the Wz parameter is
c)
f)
i)
l)
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25
Frequency of measurements; %
20
15
10
0
0,2- 0,4- 0,6- 0,8- 1,0- 1,2- 1,4- 1,6- 1,8- 2,0- 2,2-
0-0,2
0,4 0,6 0,8 1,0 1,2 1,4 1,6 1,8 2,0 2,2 2,4
% 1,85 5,46 7,17
Figure 8. Number of measurement points located within particular fabric height ranges.
closely related to the height of the seersucker strips; therefore,
its value changes depending on which fragment is selected
for surface analysis. Such variability will also occur in the weft
direction. However, this variability is much less significant,
since this parameter is measured along the whole fabric and
so the measurement includes both puckered and flat strips.
The Wz parameter itself is not sufficient to fully determine the
level of the seersucker effect on the seersucker woven fabric,
e.g., it does not include the quantitative contribution of the
puckered parts in the total surface of the fabric. In this case,
we can use the hypsometric maps and divide the entire point
cloud into individual intervals, simultaneously determining the
number of points in the individual ranges (Figures 7 and 8).
For the analyzed fabric, the most number of points was in the
ranges from 0.6 mm to 1.4 mm, which is about 70% of all points.
It is related to the fact that in this height range, apart from the
convex places, there are also flat parts of the fabric, while
below this range (about 14% of all points), there are concave
places (valleys) of fabric. It should also be emphasized that in
the selected fabric area, the flat part was divided into several
ranges, which indicates the inclination and unevenness of the
flat part of the seersucker fabric.
In the graph presented in Figure 8, it can be seen that the part
associated with the valleys (concave places) is in the lower
range of height (0.6 mm - from 0 mm to 0.6 mm) than the part
associated with the top regions (peaks) of the puckered part
(from 1.4 mm to 2.4 mm – 1 mm). This indicates the flattening
of the fabric in the layer with the valleys, which is related to the
fact that the fabric is grounded in the measuring table at the
most concave places of the seersucker strips.
Summing up, it can be concluded that using the values of the
Wz parameter presented and discussed herein, it is possible
to determine the level of the seersucker effect. It is possible
to determine the maximum value of the seersucker effect
(maximum puckering), the real width of the seersucker strips,
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12 19,5 23,5 15,3 5,19 4,7 3,39 1,49 0,32
Height range; mm
and the average value of the puckering. However, on the basis
of the share of the individual measurement points in the given
height ranges, it is possible to determine what percentage of
the total area of a given seersucker woven fabric is created by
the seersucker strips.
4. CONCLUSIONS
This paper presents a proposal for the parameterization of a
seersucker woven fabric. The scanning method is very similar
to that proposed by Matusiak and Fracczak in their preliminary
investigations [15], with the difference that in this paper, the
geometric analysis was conducted using a point cloud rather
than the previously processed scanned surface. As a result,
two steps were eliminated: creation of a surface geometry, and
projection of the lines onto the surface in order to measure the
individual values of the parameter Wz. An additional benefit of
using the scanned point cloud is that it is possible to determine
other structural parameters, such as the maximum height of
the sample to be tested and the average roughness value
(Ra), or create hypsometric maps. The proposed method
of measurement of the seersucker woven fabrics allows
parameterization of the seersucker fabric structure. It is
possible to determine the height of the puckered places and
analyze the relationship between the puckered and flat strips
within a given measurement range. It is also possible to specify
the percentage share of points in the individual height ranges.
ACKNOWLEDGMENT
This work was financed by the National Science Centre,
Poland, within the framework of the project titled “Geometrical,
Mechanical, and Biophysical Parameterization of Three-
Dimensional Woven Structures”, project number 2016/23/B/
ST8/02041.
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[10] Mohri, M., Hosseini Ravandi, S. A., Youssefi, M. (2005).

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