Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
209-220
H. T. NORRIS
University of London
(a) Where was 'the town of Sari SaltQq', the last outpost of the Turks
before the steppe? Sari SaltQq of Bukhara was a half-mythical heterodox
dervish, a follower of Ahmad YasavT. He remains an obscure figure
despite a host of legends. Yet he was, or he later became, the father-
figure of the Gagaouz in Moldavia and the Balkan Dobrudja. He is
regarded as a supreme axis or 'pole' (qutb) in the Saltdq-name, deemed
one of the founders of the Bektashiyya Sufi order, and also revered by
the Kizilba§. Tombs attributed to him are sited in the Balkans as far
apart as Babadag (important in this context) in Romania, Kruje in
Albania, Blagaj in Herzegovina, and Baba Eski in Thrace. This mention
of him by Ibn BattQta is the earliest that we have, and it is of unusual
historical interest.
(b) Where did Ibn Battuta cross the Danube? Where are Mahtull, IstafllT,
4
This form of transport ('arabat)figuresat various points in Ibn Battuta's travels in
Tartary. See H. A. R. Gibb, The Travels of Ibn BattOta AD 1325-1354, Vol. 11, Hakluyt
Society, 2nd Series, No. 117 (Cambridge, 1962), 472-3, 484-6, 491, 496.
5
Ibid. 499, n. 308.
IBN BATTOTA IN THE NORTH-EASTERN BALKANS III
wine was taken by the Khatun, and pork meat was consumed. The
party was received with much pageantry at the outskirts of
Constantinople. Ibn Battuta was an honoured guest for a little over a
month. He returned alone, since the Khatun, once home, finally decided
to stay with her people.
The colonization of the Dobrudja by SarT Saltuq, 'chaplain' to King
KaykawQs II, and his SaljQq Turks has aroused much interest and
comment by orientalists and historians. Halil Inalcik,6 in discussing the
role of the 'heretical Turcoman dervishes' known as babais, states that
'One of these babai §eyhs was Sari Saltuk. In 1261 he was forced to
take refuge in Byzantine territory with about forty Turcoman clans. He
was settled in the Dobrudja, whence he entered the service of the
The earliest Muslim Turkish settlement in the Dobruca is normally dated in or shortly
after 662: 1263/4 when a group of 10—12,000 Turcomans came here from Anatolia led
by the legendary San Saltik. During the fourteenth century Tatars came to the area from
the crumbling Empire of the Golden Horde. In addition, Bayezid I (1389-1402) settled
Tatars in the area of Babadag, while Mehmet I (1413-1421) similarly colonized the area
with Tatars, as well as with Turcomans from Asia Minor. During Bayezid II's reign
(1481-1512) the Volga Tatars were called upon to settle in South Bessarabia (Budjak)
and in the northern Dobruca. In an effort to increase the Muslim population in the
region of the Lower Danube, many colonists were brought to the Dobruca from Anatolia
and contributed to the turcification of the region which was complete in the early
seventeenth century.
In the northern part of the Chain of the earth is the land of the Qipchaq. Al-BayhaqT
has mentioned that they were the ones who became known as the tiaqjar [Nogais or
Onoghurs?] and they inclined towards the country of Constantinople. They had many
' The Ottoman Empire, the Classic Age, 1300-1600 (London, 1973).
7
'The Turks and Tatars in Romania', Turcica, 18 (1981), 167.
IBN BATTOTA IN THE NORTH-EASTERN BALKANS 213
kings in the West. The Tatars broke them up and they saw their courage and made
them into riders as part of their company.8
Ibn Battuta's remarks about Baba Saltuq are brief and largely
unfavourable.
We came to the town known by the name of Baba Saltuq. Baba in their language has
exactly the same meanmg as among the Berbers (i.e. 'father'), but they pronounce the
b more emphatically. They relate that this Saltuq was an ecstatic devotee, although
things are told of him which are reproved by the Divine Law. This town is the last of
the towns possessed by the Turks, and between it and the beginning of the territory of
the Greeks is [a journey of] eighteen days through an uninhabited waste, for eight days
of which there is no water. A provision of water is laid in for this stage, and carried in
large and small skins on the wagons. Since our entry into it was in the cold weather
[stc], we had no need of much water, and the Turks carry milk in large skins, mix it
with cooked dugi, and drink that, so that they feel no thirst. At this town we made our
preparations for [the crossing of] the waste. As I needed more horses I went to the
khatun and told her of my need.
(a) Ibn BattQta quotes an oral report. He qualifies what he says by 'they
relate' (yadhkurOn). We have no idea from whom or where he heard
about Baba Saltuq nor what were the things that contravened the
8
Ibn Sa'ld al-Maghribl ('All b. Mosa), Kitab al-]ughrafiy8, ed. by Isma'll al-'Arabl
(Beirut, 1970), 208.
9
J. Kingsley Birge, 'Some Bektashi Poets', The Moslem World, 22 (1932), 123. He
makes passing reference to the movement of Sari Saltuq and the ghazis in his The
Bektashi Order of Dervishes (London, 1937)
H T
214 - - NORRIS
Sharfa. Were his informants from the town itself, or were they in
southern Russia or even Constantinople?
(b) The 'town' of Baba Saltuq could either have been named after him
or it could indicate the place where he spent the bulk of his time in the
steppe, or where he later had his headquarters. It could have been—
like Bury St Edmunds—a holy burial place, or else—like Canterbury,
the burial place of St Thomas a Becket—a national shrine for a time
(though Becket's name was in no way incorporated within the name of
the town).
(c) Significantly, Ibn Battuta makes no mention at all of Baba SaltQq's
tomb. He was there five days on his way to Constantinople and for an
the middle reaches of the Don. From it control of the Crimea was
maintained. His successor, Timur-Qutling (1395-1401), transferred his
headquarters to the right bank of the Dnieper in the vicinity of Misurin
Rog (Dnepropetrovsk), from which control of the Crimea was con-
tinued and further enforced.
Until the alleged tomb of Sari Saltuq at Babadag in Romania has
been closely examined, and has been proved to be unquestionably early
in date, and to be without doubt the genuine tomb of the saint, and
localities, known or unknown, in Russia, the Ukraine, and Moldova
have been shown to offer no convincing alternative site, it is impossible
to prove either of these proposals conclusively. Though impressed by
the weight of documentary evidence in favour of Babadag assembled
medieval maps showed the Danube flowing into the Sea of Marmara
and others into the Dardanelles. Some showed it with two arms, others
with five or six. It was not until 1856 that a more realistic map was to
be drawn. The evidence of the change in the terrain, from the Dobrudja
flats to the uplands, favours Gibb's identification of MahtulT with
Diampolis, modern Jambol, defending the then Bulgaro-Byzantine fron-
tier. Istaflll, the next stop mentioned, in my view requires a journey
slightly to the west and near to Nova Zagora and Tirnovo and then
due south towards Haskovo oblast to Agatoniki (al- IdrTsT's AghasunikT;
al-Fanlka in Ibn BattQta's text). On this assumption, his route is
explicable from the Balkan map.
Basarab was 'the only ruler' of the state until his death in 1352. He also ruled over the
Danubian territories close to the sea, downstream of Braila. The Arab traveller and
geographer Abulfeda wrote that Isaccea was located in the 'Wallachian land', which
means that northern Dobrudja was part of Wallachia. Basarab's state stretched also left
of the Danube delta and east of the Prut; an Arabic chronicle relating the expedition of
the Anatolian leader Umar Beg to the mouth of the Danube in 1337/8 records the
location of Chilia at the 'Wallachian border'. Basarab's rule over the south and north
Danubian regions next to the sea could have been consolidated as a result of an
understanding with the Tatars (they lent him help during the 1330 war). Under the rule
of Mircea the Old, Wallachia—including Dobrudja and the Danube Delta—stretched
over some 92,119 sq km.
Byzantine control of the mouth of the Danube has also been defended.
Vasilka Tapkova-Zaimova, in 'Quelques observations sur la domination
14
Illustrated History of the Romanian People (Bucharest, 1981), 109-18.
IBN BATTOTA IN THE NORTH-EASTERN BALKANS 217
All its inhabitants are Muslim Tatars, for Sultan Muhammad, after having conquered
this country, expelled the Christians from it and has peopled it with Tatars, a people
who hate the Christians. Most of them are from the Crimean steppes (barr Qaraman),
from our country, and that is in order to defend the edge of the Danube river against
their Christian enemies, because it is a country of plains where herds are sent forth to
pasture and which lies at the extremity of Rumelia facing the Danube, Moldavia, and
Wallachia.15