DIY Bottom Drain with Air Dome

Michael Anderson
Atlanta Koi Club
www.atlantakoiclub.org

Our koi ponds need bottom drains to take away sinking debris just as it needs a skimmer to
trap floating debris. Don’t think your pond needs a bottom drain? Find a toilet bowl
without one. Ponds and toilet bowls need that hole in the bottom for the same reason,
namely sanitation.

This bottom drain design uses a 6” wide

sump where debris is drawn by currents
down and into the 4” pipe that feeds filters
outside the pond. The design uses an anti-
vortex dome. Without the dome, a circular
current would be formed in the mouth of the
drain just like water swirling down the
kitchen sink drain. The dome prevents this
undesired swirling current and causes the
water to be pulled in from along the pond
floor. This current along the pond floor helps
sweep debris into the bottom drain’s sump
and on to the filters.

Using a disk diffuser as an anti-vortex dome

gives us the opportunity to introduce a
column of air into the pond. What is a disk
diffuser? It is a disk typically 9” in diameter
with a synthetic rubber membrane on the
top. The membrane has hundreds of small holes in it. Air is pumped into the diffuser from
an air pump outside the pond. This causes the membrane to release a column of small air
bubbles. This rising column causes improved gas exchange at the pond surface, provides
exercise currents needed by koi, and sweeps sinking debris to the bottom drain.

So why would you want to build your own bottom drain? First and foremost, it is fun to
work with simple hand tools and make something you can use. It keeps the mind and
fingers nimble. Second, you can save a buck or two. Bottom drains with disk diffuser
domes can easily cost $300-$400. The parts needed to build this bottom drain should cost
less than $100. With the exception of the disk diffuser and E6000 sealant, the parts are
available at a combination of blue and orange DIY stores. For this prototype I reused a disk
diffuser from a former pond. You can buy similar disk diffusers at Aquatic Ecosystems or
other companies via the Internet. E6000 can be purchased at craft stores.
This project will take a few hours on several different days. You do not need to block out 8
hours for two days. Just put in a few hours as your schedule permits. And remember, you
CAN do this!!!!

Basic parts for bottom drain:

1. One disk diffuser (typically a 9” diameter diffuser has ¾” male pipe threads)
2. One PVC sanitary tee, reducing, 6”x 6” x 4”
3. One PVC 1” elbow
4. One PVC female adapter, ¾” female pipe threads x 1”slip
5. Three PVC 1” couplings, slip x slip
6. At least 18” length of 1” PVC pipe
7. Small bag of concrete mix (a bag will do many drains)
8. One small tube of E6000 sealant/adhesive (alterative is aquarium sealant)
9. One sheet plastic (acrylic or PVC) approximately 0.25” thick and at least 12”x 12” (I
used clear acrylic for the prototype, you want to use gray PVC)

Additional parts if for liner pond:

1. Second sheet of plastic

2. Twelve #12 stainless steel pan head screws at least 1” long
3. One 3” length of painter’s tape

Basic tools:
1. Safety glasses for each person involved!!!!!!!
2. One Rotozip with hole cutting adapter (alternative is a router with narrow bit)
3. One drill bit sized to make the pivot hole for Rotozip adapter
4. One half-round file around 1” wide
5. One can PVC cleaner or primer
6. One can PVC heavy duty glue
7. One 1.375” spade drill bit
8. One electric drill motor
9. One level 24-26” long
10. One level no longer that 6”
11. Small bucket and trowel for mixing concrete

Additional tools if for liner pond:

1. One drill bit o.193”
2. One drill bit 0.220”
3. One screwdriver (for #12 screws)
Getting Started

Decide how many drains you will build and if they are for a liner pond. That will drive the
total list of materials and tools. Gather all the parts and tools before you start. Read
through all the steps before cutting and drilling. Frequently check the photos to make sure
you have the right orientation of the sanitary tee. Re-check orientation frequently. Practice
good shop safety. Wear safety glasses!!!!

VERY IMPORTANT: Examine the sanitary tee PVC fitting. Note that it has two 6”
ports and one 4” port. The 6” port that is closer to the 4” port will be the bottom of
the completed drain. This will let water flow down into the sump (the main body of
the fitting) and be sweep out to the side into the 4” pipe that feeds the pond filter.
Always double check against the photos.

Cutting Plastic Disk and Ring

1. Use the Rotozip tool to cut a plastic disk that is 11”-12” in diameter. The diameter is
not critical.
2. Use the Rotozip to cut an approximately 6.50” diameter disk out of the center of the
11”-12” disk from the previous step. You should end up with a 6.60” disk and a ring
that has an 11”-12” outside diameter and an inside diameter of 6.625”. Remember:
the blade removes some of material.
3. Use the file to remove any mold marks (small ridges) on the 6” port on the top of the
sanitary tee. This can be easily done by moving the file back and forth across two
edges and slowly rotate the sanitary tee. Remember the top of the completed drain
is the 6” port furthest from the 4” port.
4. Clean the smoothed edge with PVC cleaner. Also, clean a 1” wide area on one side of
the disk around the inner edge. Only one side of the disk needs to be cleaned.

Installing Disk and Ring

1. Dry fit the plastic disk on the sanitary tee top 6” port. The inner edge of the ring
should align with the inside of the sanitary tee 6” port. Set aside the plastic disk.
2. Apply PVC glue to the top edge of the sanitary tee top 6” port. Put a small amount of
glue on disk that you just cleaned Reinstall the plastic disk and firmly push it onto 6”
port. Make sure to align the disk’s hole with the 6” port. Set aside for several hours
in a warm area for the glue to cure.
3. Invert the sanitary tee so that the plastic ring is now resting on your work surface.
Level the sanitary tee. I used wooden shims to do this.
4. Insert the 6.5” disk into the 6” port that is now pointing up. Level the disk using a
very short level. Remove the levels.
5. Slowly pour a bead of PVC glue around the outside of the disk using a disposable
plastic spoon. This will fuse the disk to the sanitary tee. Let this glue cure for
several hours in a warm area. Then repeat the bead of glue. Let the glue cure
overnight.

Holes for Air Supply Line

1. Using the 1.375” spade bit and drill motor, put a hole in the center of the disk that
was installed in the previous step. The disk should already have a center hole from
the use of the Rotozip hole cutting accessory. Use that hole to center the spade bit.
 2. On the outside of the sanitary tee 6” port, find the mold seam line that is vertical
and just above the 4” port.
3. Measure down from the top edge of the 6” port along this seam and mark 1.375”.
4. Using the 1. 375 spade bit, drill a hole in the side of the 6” port above the 4” port. If
you are not above the 4” port you are on the wrong seam.

Install Air Supply Pipe

1. Cut one 2” length and one 4” length of 1” PVC pipe.

2. Using PVC cleaner, clean both ends of the two pieces of pipe and both ends of the
PVC elbow fitting.
3. Using PVC glue, install the 2” length of pipe into one end of the elbow and the 4”
length of pipe into the other end of the elbow. But sure to push the pipe all the way
(1”) into the elbow fitting!
4. Dry fit the assembly from the previous step in the 6” port so that the 2” pipe length is
inserted through the hole in the plastic disk and the 4” pipe length is sticking out of
the hole that was drilled into the side of the 6” port. If necessary, enlarge the hole in
the side of the 6” port using the half-round file. Once the dry fitting is OK, proceed
with the next step.
5. Using the PVC cleaner, clean one each of two different pipe coupling fittings.
6. Apply PVC glue to the 2” pipe length end, 4” pipe length end and insides of the two
cleaned coupling fittings.
7. Reinstall the assembly. Put one of the coupling fittings onto the 2” pipe on the other
side of the plastic disk. Be sure to tightly push the coupling onto the pipe so that the
disk is tightly sandwiched between the coupling and elbow. Place the other coupling
on the 4” pipe outside of the 6” port.
8. Use another disposable plastic spoon to put a bead of glue around the elbow where it
meets the plastic disk. Glue can also be spooned over the 4” pipe length where it
goes through the hole in the 6” port and into the coupling. Let the glue cure for
several hours.

(Optionally apply a bead of E6000 sealant around the intersection of the plastic disk
and sanitary tee and between the plastic disk and elbow fitting. This is an extra
precaution to prevent leaks. Let the E6000 cure overnight.)

Adding the Concrete to Handle Weight of Water

1. Mix approximately 1 quart of concrete and pour into top 6” port of the sanitary tee
and the 1” air supply line. This will cover the plastic disk and elbow fitting. Gently
shake the sanitary tee to remove any air bubbles in the concrete. Screed (level) the
concrete to the top of the 6” port. The purpose of this concrete is to carry the
weight of the pond water to the compacted dirt or concrete beneath the drain. The
plastic disk will NOT handle the water pressure alone! Let the concrete cure
overnight.
2. Invert and level the sanitary tee. The plastic ring is now at the top and the concrete
is at the bottom beneath the plastic disk.
3. Mix approximately 4 cups of concrete and pour into top 6” port of the sanitary tee.
Shake the concrete so that if covers the plastic disk and surrounds the coupling
fitting. The depth should approximately 0.675” or equal to the bottom of the
opening to the 4” port. The purpose of this concrete is to prevent debris from
sitting below the entrance to the 4” pipe that feeds the filters. Let the concrete cure
at least 24 hours.
For Liner Ponds Only

1. On the second plastic ring, lay out a pattern for 12 screws. They should be half
way between the outer and inner edges and evenly spaced around the ring. It
may be helpful to trace the ring only paper and layout the pattern on the paper.
2. Clamp the second ring onto the top of the ring that previously glued to the
sanitary tee.
3. Put the piece of painters tape across the top of the top ring and down onto the
inside of the sanitary tee 6” port. Write “top” on the tape on the top of ring. Cut
the tape between the edges of the two rings. These two sections of tape will make
it much easier during installation to correctly align the top ring!
4. At the locations determined in the previous step, drill holes using the o.193” bit
through both rings.
5. Unclamp and remove the top ring. Increase the drill bit size to 0.220” and
enlarge the holes only in the top ring so that the screws can pass through. The
objective is for the screw threads to only bit into the the bottom ring, not the top
ring.
6. Put the top ring on top of the bottom ring (remember that painter’s tape) and
install the 12 screws through the two rings. Remember that when you install the
drain in the pond, the liner will add approximately 0.125” between the two rings.
 Final Steps

1. Using PVC cleaner and then glue, install the PVC female adapter into one end of
the remaining coupling fitting. Let the glue cure for a few minutes.
2. Screw the disk diffuser into the PVC female adapter.
3. Measure from the bottom of the female adapter and coupling to the bottom edge
of the disk diffuser.
4. Place the level across the top of the plastic rings that have been glued/screwed to
the top of the sanitary tee. Measure from the bottom of the level to the top of the
coupling that is stickup from the concrete.
5. Take the measurement in the previous step. Subtract the measurement from the
bottom of the disk diffuser. And 2” (the pipe has to go 1” into each of the two
coupling fittings. And add a final 0.5” for the desired gap between the bottom of
the disk diffuser and the plastic disk(s).
6. Cut the PVC pipe to the measurement determined in the previous step.
7. Using PVC cleaner and then glue, install the between the two coupling fittings
(one is in the bottom of the sanitary tee and the other is at the bottom of the disk
diffuser).
8. Set aside the unit to allow the glue and concrete to cure. Remember: the
concrete must cure for 28 days to achieve maximum strength before installation.

Sit down and enjoy your favorite adult beverage. Smile. You did it!!!