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Figure 117 Forces on a parcel of air. Buoyancy will lift lighter parcels of air, or
denser parcels will fall due to gravity. Differences in pressure from one region
to another will push the parcel along, while friction along the ground will rob it
of energy.
Steepient L
Shallow grad
gradient g
H Strodns
Light win
winds
Figure 118 Lines of equal pressure are called isobars. Wind flows from regions
of high pressure to low pressure. When the isobars are closer together, the
winds will be stronger.
14 I
12 \
10 \.
"-..
Height (km)
6 """,...
.......
4
.......
2
0
-60 -50 -40 -30 -20 -10
Temperature (C)
' 0 " i,,._
10 20
summer day, I’ll look up in the sky at the tops of billowing thun-
derheads and picture the subzero temperatures up there, as if they
were frosted mountain peaks towering above the scorched plains.
The lower reaches of the atmosphere where this air cooling takes
place is called the troposphere.
Water is a huge player in weather and climate. Its importance
cannot be overstated when you stop to consider that the violence
of tornados, thunderstorms, hurricanes, blizzards, and other
phenomena is directly related to the properties of water. Its ability
to retain heat is called heat capacity. Oceans, lakes, and ponds will
stay much warmer in the autumn when the air around it is cooling
off and will be much colder in the spring when the surrounding
air is warming up. It takes a lot more heat to change the tempera-
ture of water than for air. In contrast to water, air has a relatively
low heat capacity. The difference in the heat capacities of water
and air create substantial differences between maritime and conti-
nental environments. For example, the city of Sitka, on the Gulf
of Alaska, receives moist winds from the west that moderate its
temperature swings. Sitka has January lows in the 30s (°F) and
July highs in the 60s — an average temperature variation of 30°F
(17°C). In contrast, Edmonton, Alberta, is located in a continental
zone and has an average January low of –2°F and an average July
high of 73°, a variation of 75°F (42°C).
The next important property is thermal conductivity, which is
the ability to carry heat (or cold) from one place to another. Wet
air is very effective at transmitting heat or cold from one place to
another. Oftentimes on sultry summer days, people will lament,
“It’s not the heat; it’s the humidity.” A strong breeze in cold rain
can rapidly drain energy away from the skin of hikers, causing
hypothermia.
The third, and probably most important, property of water for
weather is latent heat. This is the amount of heat required to change
water from a liquid into a vapor. In the reverse process when water
forms droplets they release heat. If water vapor condenses in a
rising column of air, it releases heat, which fuels a more rapid rise.
This process is responsible for the explosive growth of thunder-
storms on hot humid days.
Sea Breezes
0 Low
I ------ • - - --' High
I
I I
I
y I
AI
I
HighI ---- - •- -- - -
Sea Breeze I
Low
Cool Warm
Figure 120 Sea breeze created by heated air over land rising during the day
and falling over the ocean. Image credit: A. Scherlis.
Low
)
High
I
.. - - - • - - - - - '
I
t
Land Breeze I
Low
I
-----~----' High
Warm Cool
Figure 121 Land breeze created by heated air over water rising during the
night and falling over land Image credit: A. Scherlis.
Convection
cells
AAAA
tttttttt
Heat in
Figure 122 Convection cells arise when a gas or liquid is heated. The number
of cells will depend in part on how much heat goes in.
North Pole
Polar Cell
Ferrel Cell
Hadley Cell
South Pole
Figure 123 Three separate convection cells arise between the equator and
the poles. The return air along the surface creates the prevailing winds. Image
credit: A. Scherlis.
the advance in bars and brothels before setting out to sea, leaving
them in debt. At sea they slowly paid off the debt, before reach-
ing the break-even point, when they began to accrue money. To
celebrate this moment sailors would bring out the effigy of a dead
horse, which was ceremoniously beaten and thrown overboard.
The break-even point was typically reached around 30 degrees N;
hence, the name given to this latitude.2
The Ferrel cell, named after William Ferrel, who proposed its
existence in the mid-nineteenth century, transports air along the
Earth’s surface northward in the Northern Hemisphere and south-
ward in the Southern Hemisphere until it reaches approximately
60 degrees N and S latitude, where it meets the Polar cell. The
Polar cell transports air from the poles along the Earth’s surface
toward the Ferrel cell. Where air rises at the convergence of the
Ferrel and Polar cells, there is a zone called the Subpolar Low.
This belt of low pressure is associated with strong storm systems
in the North Pacific around the Aleutian Islands and in the North
Atlantic around Iceland.
Prevailing winds are created from the path of air along the surface
associated with the global convection cells. From the horse lati-
tudes to the equator, the main surface winds flow toward the equa-
tor; beyond the horse latitudes the winds flow northward in the
Northern Hemisphere. There is an additional factor that deter-
mines prevailing wind patterns: the Coriolis effect, which deflects
winds in both hemispheres. The effect is named after the French
scientist Gaspard-Gustave Coriolis, who wrote about it in 1835.
Figure 124 illustrates the basics of the Coriolis effect for two
people riding on a rotating merry-go-round. One person throws
the ball over to his friend directly across. The ball travels on a
straight path, but since the merry-go-round is spinning, his friend
has moved out of the way by the time it was supposed to reach
him. From the point of view of an observer overhead, the ball trav-
els in a straight line, but for the two observers on the merry-go-
round, the ball appears to be deflected by what seems to be a new
and mysterious force.
••
Ball thrown
Observer overhead
•
Ball thrown
Observer on merry-go-round
Figure 124 The Coriolis effect. When a ball is thrown across a rotating merry-
go-round, it takes a straight path. From the point of view of observers playing
catch on the merry-go-round, the ball seems to be deflected by a mysterious
“force.”
Figure 125 The Coriolis effect on the Earth. Air moving away from the equator
gets diverted to the east. Air moving toward the equator gets diverted to the
west. Image credit: A. Scherlis.
Figure 126 Patterns of prevailing winds on the Earth. The Hadley cell creates
trade winds blowing from the east, and the Ferrel cell creates westerlies in the
midlatitudes. Image credit: A. Scherlis.
The Monsoon
Wind Speed
Table 2: Beaufort wind scale for land (top) and water (bottom). Wind speeds
are in knots; 1 knot = 1.15 miles per hour.
Continental arctic
bitterly cold
Maritime
polar
Continental
cool, moist polar Maritime
polar
cold, dry cool, moist
Continental Maritime
tropical tropical
Maritime hot
dry warm, moist
tropical
warm, moist
Polar
Subtropical
Subtropical
Polar
Figure 128 Subtropical and polar jet streams. The meandering of the streams
is associated with weather fronts. Image credit: A. Scherlis.
Warm Fronts
Warm fronts are the transition from cold, dry air to warm, moist
air. These fronts are typically slow moving, and the signs of the
approaching front may take twenty-four hours or more to develop.
The front can cause long periods of rain with slight wind and
long-lasting cloud cover. Once the front has passed, the weather
can be unstable, with afternoon thunderstorms developing in the
summer.
Nimbostratus
Su
Stratus '------->
Cool air receding
Ground
Figure 129 Characteristics of an approaching warm front. A lowering sequence
of clouds appears as the wedge shape of the warm front overtakes the denser
cold air in front of it.
Because warm air is less dense than the colder air it overtakes,
it gets pushed upward, and the first cloud formations are seen at
high altitudes. The resulting frontal boundary is wedge shaped
(Figure 129). Because of its moisture content, the warm air cools
and condenses as it gets pushed upward. The first signs of the front
come in the form of clouds of ice crystals, then clouds of water
droplets. The characteristic sign of an approaching warm front is a
sequence of cloud formations that start from the upper atmosphere
and gradually drop in altitude until they are at their lowest and
bear rain.
Jet Contrails
Figure 130 A jet contrail lingering high in the sky can be one of the first signs
of an approaching warm front.
dry, the contrails will disappear as the surrounding air absorbs the
water vapor. If the upper atmosphere is saturated with water vapor,
the contrails will linger and even broaden out, acting as seeds for
further cloud formation.
Cirrus Clouds
Cirrus clouds are often called mares’ tails because of their wispy
shape, which resembles the tail of a horse (Figure 131). The
formations of ice crystals high in the sky slowly fall because of
gravity. At higher altitudes wind speed is greater. As the ice crys-
tals fall, they aren’t swept through the sky as fast as those at a
higher altitude, giving the characteristic shape for which they’re
named. The direction of the backs of the mares’ tails is a good
clue to the wind direction at high altitudes and the general trend
of weather movement.
Figure 131 Cirrus clouds or mare’s tails are formed by ice crystals in the upper
atmosphere.
Mackerel Scales
Altocumulus Clouds
Figure 133 Altocumulus clouds. The clouds in the formation in the photograph
are sometimes called “rollers.”
Stratus Clouds
Stratus means “flat” or “layered.” Low stratus clouds are often the
next-to-last set of clouds before rain in the sequence of an approach-
ing warm front. If you’ve been watching the progression of linger-
ing contrails, followed by mares’ tails, then mackerel scales, then
roller clouds, when you see stratus clouds, you might want to give
some serious thought to setting up a good watertight camp, or find
some kind of shelter, because rain is likely to be on its way. Low
stratus clouds associated with rain are flat and grey and cover large
sections of the sky. The clouds are low enough at this point that the
sensation of humidity on the skin associated with the approaching
warm front becomes quite obvious. The odor of damp soil may be
intensified.
Nimbostratus Clouds
By the time you see nimbostratus clouds, it’s probably too late,
and you’re getting rained on. They are relatively flat, rain-bearing
clouds. Local patches of falling rain create some undulations in
the cloud cover. The duration of rain can be quite long during a
warm front, lasting up to several days, depending on how fast it is
moving.
There’s a general saying about weather systems:
this aphorism, and searching for signs of a letup and clear weather.
When the nimbostratus clouds begin to blow apart and patches
of blue sky appear, this is often a sign that the storm is abating.
There’s an old saying of Dutch extraction in Upstate New York:
Once the front has passed, the weather accompanying the low-
pressure zone of warm air is often unstable, with afternoon thun-
derstorms blowing up in the summer and cloud cover common in
the winter. Conditions are typically warm and humid.
Cold Fronts
I warm air;
Cirrus
Anvil head
Cumulonimbus
I cold air ;
Cumulus
Ground
Figure 134 Shape of a cold front with dense cold air impinging on warm moist air.
it. The abrupt leading edge creates a much faster transition than
warm fronts, often breeding thunderstorms.
As the cold front approaches, it pushes warm air in front of it
to higher altitudes. This is a crucial factor in the development of
thunderstorms. Warm moist air contains large amounts of latent
energy that is released when water vapor condenses. As the warm
air rises, it gains altitude and cools, forming droplets. The heat
given off by the droplet formation causes the surrounding air to
warm further and rise more rapidly, creating a vertical column.
When this happens, a partial vacuum arises on the surface that
sucks in more warm air. A sudden drop in atmospheric pressure
often signals the approach of a cold front. Thunderstorms are a
kind of engine that feeds off the energy of the surrounding humid
air. The vacuum effect can pull in air from a hundred kilometers
away, even if the front itself is localized.
Figure 134 also shows the characteristic sequence of clouds asso-
ciated with the production of thunderstorms. Puffball fair-weather
clouds are a kind of cumulus cloud. They begin to build into
thunderstorms with updrafts and start to show significant verti-
cal structure as heated columns of air push the cloud tops higher.
As these heated columns of air gain altitude, the storm begins to
mature. Rising air columns can reach beyond the upper level of
the troposphere and bubble out, freezing into ice crystals. The ice
crystals then spread, creating a large patch of high cirrus clouds
that is blown ahead of the storm in strong upper-level winds. The
high band of cirrus clouds creates a characteristic “anvil head” that
often accompanies a mature thunderstorm.
As water droplets gain altitude from the updrafts, they eventu-
ally begin to cool and grow in size. At a certain point the droplets
are heavy enough that updrafts can no longer keep them aloft, and
they begin to fall. As more and more droplets fall, they entrain
cold upper-level air, producing strong downdrafts. The down-
drafts often precede the rain itself and can produce violent gusts
in advance of falling rain. Strong downdrafts can be exceedingly
Figure 135 Top of a thunderhead cloud illuminated by the setting Sun. The
Moon is in the background. The photograph was taken eighty miles away from
the cloud formation in the foreground.
Cyclonic Storms
Low High
Figure 136 High- and low-pressure regions and associated airflow. These
create cyclones and anticyclones. The above figure is representative of systems
in the Northern Hemisphere. The sense of rotation gets reversed for cyclones
and anticyclones in the Southern Hemisphere.
and
Over the years I have tried to understand this one, and I have
to confess that I do not put a lot of faith in it. The best expla-
nation that I can come up with is the following: Storm systems
in the midlatitudes move from west to east. If you see clouds at
sunset illuminated by the Sun, there must be a clear region along
the western horizon for the sunlight to reach the clouds. When it
does, it illuminates clouds to east. This implies that the western
sky is clear but there are still lingering clouds in your vicinity.
The opposite would be the case in the morning, where the sky is
clear near the Sun in the east, but there are clouds illuminated to
the west. In both cases the “red” in the adage refers to the color
of clouds in the sky, not the color of the Sun itself. My experience
is that this adage is not very reliable. I’ve seen big storms follow-
ing red skies at night and clear weather following a red sky at
morning. This piece of weather augury is featured in the Gospel
According to Matthew:
Chapter 11
1. Joshua Slocum, Sailing Alone Around the World (New York: Barnes and
Noble Classics, 2005, original 1900), 59.
2. Peter Kemp, The Oxford Companion to Ships and the Sea (London:
Oxford University Press, 1976), 233, 399.
3. I thank my mother for this one, Carol Monnik Huth, who would often
repeat this saying to me. It has many folkloric variants.
4. David Lewis, We the Navigators (Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press,
1994), 221.
5. Nick Ward, Left for Dead (New York: Bloomsbury USA, 2007), 40.
6. Frank Gallagher, “Green Thunderstorms” (Ph.D. diss., University of
Oklahoma, 1997).
7. Gene Ammarell, Bugis Navigation (New Haven, CT: Yale University
Southeast Asia Studies, Ernest Beaglehole and Pearl Beaglehole, 1999),
98.
8. David Lewis, We the Navigators, 111–115.
9. Richard Feinberg, Polynesan Seafaring and Navigation (Kent, OH: Kent
State University Press, 1988), 92–100.
10. Ibid., 98.