Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Skin moisturizing
Skin cleansing
Removing materials from the skin surface but cleanser
cannot distinguish between sebum & intercellular lipids
4 MOISTURIZER GOALS
(1) ↑ skin smoothness & softness
• Skin that is smooth and soft is an
assessment of the organization of the
corneocytes on the skin surface
• Creating smooth and soft skin utilizes
emollients (Table 1), which are thin oily
substances capable of depositing
between the desquamating
corneocytes temporarily until the next
cleansing, at which time they must be
reapplied.
(2) ↑ skin hydration
• increase skin hydration by retarding water loss from the skin surface, known as trans epidermar
water loss (TEWL) This is accomplished by placing a water impermeable film over the skin to
retard evaporation and by applying substances to the skin surface to attract water
• Increased skin hydration is the mechanism by which most moisturizers decrease fine lines of
dehydration, especially those around the eye where the skin is thinnest.
Ada 3 intercellular lipid yang menjaga skin barrier sphingolipid, free sterol & fatty acid
Ceramide adalah lipid utama pada stratum korneum yang menjadi sphingolipid ketika terglikosilasi
4 BASIC MECHANISMS OF MOISTURIZATION
Occlusion Humectantcy
Hydrophilic
Photoprotection
matrices
Emolient: mengisi celahpada kulit, membuat lembab dan lembut
Occlusive: meningkatkan dan menjaga kelembaban kulit dengan memberikan lapisan pelindung untuk mencegah TEWL
biasanya dikombinasi dengan emolien
Humektan: Meningkatkan kelembaban kulit dengan cara menarik molekul air
CLASS OF
MOISTURIZER
Plant oil
Mineral oil
Shea butter
Cocoa butter
Ceramide
KOMPOSISI
KARAKTERISTIK
PENGGUNAAN