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The Journal of The Textile Institute, 2016
Vol. 107, No. 1, 50–63, http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2014.1000017
Yarn structure influences the configuration of the constituent fibers in the yarn and the comfort properties of the fabrics
to a great extent. The fiber arrangement in the yarn has a major influence on the comfort-related properties such as
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thermal conductivity, air permeability, wickability, and moisture vapor permeability. This study dealt with the influence
of process and material variables namely, polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) proportion, twist multiplier (TM), and spindle speed
on microporous viscose yarn properties. Three-variable three-factor Box and Behnken method was used to investigate
the individual and interaction effects of selected variables on yarn properties. The selected variables have a significant
influence on all the yarn properties. The increase in PVA%, spindle speed, and TM reduces the specific volume and
wickability of yarns and increases the tenacity and packing factor of yarns before dissolving the PVA fibers. With
increase in spindle speed and TM, same trend was noticed after dissolving the PVA also. But the trend reverses with
increase in PVA percentage after dissolution of PVA fiber. The increase in PVA percentage increases the specific volume
and wickability of yarns and decreases the tenacity and packing factor of yarns after dissolution of PVA fiber. The
optimized process parameters were obtained, and yarn was spun with the optimized parameters to validate the model.
Keywords: micropores; specific volume; packing factor; tenacity; wicking; PVA fiber; viscose
method. However, there is a lack of literature on the by varying PVA proportions from 3 to 50%. The PVA
production and analysis of viscose and PVA blended proportion more than 15% leads to drastic reduction in
microporous yarns. This study aims to optimize the mechanical properties of fabrics after dissolving the
spinning variables for the production of viscose PVA component. The PVA proportion less than 5%
microporous yarns which affect the packing does not have significant effect on yarn characteristics.
characteristics. The variables selected for this study In order to study the combined effect of these factors,
were proportion of PVA fiber blended with viscose, experiments were performed at different combinations
twist multiplier (TM), and spindle speed in ring frame. of the physical parameters using statistically designed
A three-variable Box–Behnken method has been used experiments.
to produce the yarn samples and analyze the A multiple regression analysis is done to obtain the
interaction effect of selected variables on yarn coefficients, and the equation can be used to predict the
properties before and after dissolving the PVA fibers response. The design is preferred because relatively few
were reported. experimental combinations of the variables are adequate
to estimate potentially complex response functions. A
total of 15 experiments were necessary to estimate the
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Number of tests
Sl. No Yarn particulars Instrument used Test method/procedure carried out
1 Yarn count Wrap reel ASTM D1907–07 3 test/cop = 30 test
2 Single yarn TPI Electronic twist tester ASTM D1422–99 10 test/cop = 100 test
(Untwist-Retwist)
3 Single thread strength Uster tensojet 4 ASTM D 2256-02 (500 mm tests length 20 test/cop = 200 test
and breaking elongation and 5000 mm/min extension rate)
4 Yarn diameter Leica polarized Using glass slide, camera, and software 200 measurements have
microscope with CCD been taken per sample
Camera
PVA% TM Spindle speed Count Ne Count Ne TPI TPI Yarn diameter Yarn diameter
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Std. order (X1) (X2) (rpm) (X3) (BD) (AD) (BD) (AD) (μm) (BD) (μm) (AD)
100% Viscose 0 2.9 13,000 30.2 – 19.2 – 162 –
(control)
1 5 2.7 13,000 28.8 29.7 16.8 17.2 239 238
2 15 2.7 13,000 25.4 30.5 16.2 16.5 223 247
3 5 3.1 13,000 28.2 29.4 20.6 20.8 201 212
4 15 3.1 13,000 25.2 29.2 21.0 21.1 199 202
5 5 2.9 10,000 28.9 30.7 19.1 19.3 223 217
6 15 2.9 10,000 25.8 30.1 18.9 19.5 217 206
7 5 2.9 16,000 29.1 29.7 18.6 18.8 223 222
8 15 2.9 16,000 25.5 29.3 19.0 19.1 205 204
9 10 2.7 10,000 27.2 30.4 16.3 16.9 242 229
10 10 3.1 10,000 27.4 30.6 20.2 20.6 190 172
11 10 2.7 16,000 26.7 29.2 17.1 17.4 218 224
12 10 3.1 16,000 26.9 30.9 20.7 21.1 182 170
13 10 2.9 13,000 26.5 30.4 18.6 19.1 202 203
14 10 2.9 13,000 27.2 30.1 18.5 18.9 206 211
15 10 2.9 13,000 27.5 29.3 18.9 19.3 207 203
*BD – Before dissolving PVA, AD – After dissolving PVA.
Table 4. Box–Behnken design along with actual and predicted values of responses.
Yarn Yarn
Spindle Specific Wicking Wicking
PVA Speed Tenacity Tenacity Specific volume Packing Packing Height Height
% TM (rpm) (BD) (AD) volume (BD) (AD) factor factor (cm) (cm)
Std. order (X1) (X2) (X3) cN/Tex cN/Tex cm3/g cm3/g (BD) (AD) (BD) (AD)
100% viscose 0 2.9 13,000 17.74 – 1.41 – 0.403 – 5.1 –
(control)
1 5 2.7 13,000 15.99 12.12 2.18 2.24 0.302 0.294 7.8 8.6
2 15 2.7 13,000 19.52 10.75 1.68 2.47 0.392 0.266 6.4 6.7
3 5 3.1 13,000 17.24 14.75 1.51 1.75 0.436 0.376 7.5 8.2
4 15 3.1 13,000 21.55 14.5 1.33 1.59 0.495 0.414 7.1 7.3
5 5 2.9 10,000 17.12 12.86 1.91 1.93 0.345 0.341 7.6 8.4
6 15 2.9 10,000 19.75 12.92 1.61 1.69 0.409 0.389 6.6 7.0
7 5 2.9 16,000 17.88 13.85 1.92 1.95 0.343 0.337 7.1 7.3
8 15 2.9 16,000 21.85 13.75 1.42 1.62 0.463 0.406 6.4 7.4
9 10 2.7 10,000 18.43 11.37 2.12 2.19 0.310 0.300 7.3 9.8
10 10 3.1 10,000 19.53 14.1 1.31 1.21 0.502 0.544 7.0 9.2
11 10 2.7 16,000 20.35 12.76 1.69 1.95 0.389 0.337 6.8 8.8
12 10 3.1 16,000 22.95 15.85 1.19 1.19 0.553 0.553 6.5 8.2
13 10 2.9 13,000 19.52 13.25 1.44 1.66 0.457 0.396 6.9 9.4
14 10 2.9 13,000 18.66 13.45 1.53 1.78 0.430 0.370 7.1 8.7
15 10 2.9 13,000 19.29 13.49 1.57 1.61 0.419 0.409 6.5 9.2
*BD – Before dissolving PVA, AD – After dissolving PVA.
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Table 5. Regression equations for various yarn properties before and after dissolving PVA.
−0.11 X32
53
54 V. Chandrasekaran et al.
Table 6. ANOVA results of selected model for yarn properties before dissolving PVA.
Table 7. ANOVA results of selected model for yarn properties after dissolving PVA.
Evaluation of yarn properties yarn specific volume and yarn packing fraction were
The details of instrument used, testing standards, and calculated as given by the formula.
the number of samples tested for each yarn Yarn specific volume, cm3/g = πd2/(4 × 10−5 X yarn
characteristics are given in Table 2. All the tests tex)
were carried out after conditioning the samples in Yarn packing fraction = Specific volume of viscose
standard atmospheric conditions, that is 27.0 ± 2 °C fiber (cm3/g)/Yarn specific volume (cm3/g).
and 65 ± 2%. where d is the average diameter of the yarn in cm
The yarn diameter of the samples has been measured and viscose fiber density = 1.52 cm3/g
using polarized light microscope. The yarns were placed
on the glass slide without tension, and the yarn diameter
was measured by taking the image and by using the Results and discussion
Motic Plus 2.0 software. Physical properties of yarn
The wickability of fabrics is determined by the
The Table 3 shows the physical properties of yarns such
vertical wicking test as per AATCC 197–2011 standard.
as count, TPI, and yarn diameter before and after
The fabric specimen of 20 cm × 2.5 cm was hung
dissolution of PVA. For compassion purpose, the results
vertically on a holder. The specimen was then dipped in
of 100% viscose yarns produced at zero coded values
water solution of 2 gpl reactive dye up to a mark made
are also given in the same table.
at a distance of 2 cm from the edge of the fabric. The
From the Table 3, it is observed that the yarn
vertical wickability, expressed as the wicking height in
count becomes finer after the dissolution of PVA due
cm, is then noted after a time interval of 15 min. The
The Journal of The Textile Institute 55
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Figure 1. Contour plots of yarn specific volume before dissolving PVA (a) TM = 2.7, (b) TM = 2.9, and (c) TM = 3.1.
to the removal of PVA fibers from the yarn structure. Model building and statistical analysis of yarn
Since the yarns were spun coarser than the nominal properties
count before dissolving the PVA, the yarn count The empirical relationships for yarn specific volume
becomes finer and is closer to the nominal count of BD (Y1), yarn specific volume AD (Y2), yarn packing
30s Ne after dissolution of PVA. Though slight factor BD (Y3), yarn packing factor AD (Y4), yarn
increase in twist of yarns after dissolving PVA was tenacity BD (Y5), yarn tenacity AD (Y6), wicking
noticed which could be due to the shrinkage of yarns height (Y7), wicking height AD (Y8), and the tested
during washing in loose form, there is no significant variables were obtained by application of RSM. The
change in TPI of yarn before and after dissolving final mathematical model in terms of coded factors as
PVA were observed. The yarn diameter values before determined by Design-Expert software is shown in the
and after dissolution of PVA were used to calculate Table 5. The regression coefficient (R2) value indicates
the yarn specific volume and packing factor of yarns. a good correlation of selected experimental region
The design matrix of the variables in the actual units with the physical properties of yarn. The model with
along with their yarn properties before and after the R2 ≥ 0.6 (60%) can be considered as a valid
dissolving the PVA fibers along with the results of model.
100% viscose yarns produced at zero coded values is The goodness of the model can be checked by the
given in Table 4. determination coefficient R2 and the adjusted R2
56 V. Chandrasekaran et al.
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Figure 2. Contour plots of yarn specific volume after dissolving PVA (a) TM = 2.7, (b) TM = 2.9, and (c) TM = 3.1.
(multiple correlation coefficient R). The value of agreement with the adjusted R2. The large deviation
adjusted R2 of 0.8253, 0.8551, 0.8096, 0.6742, 0.9219, between adjusted R2 and predicted R2 may indicate a
0.9282, 0.6802, and 0.7794 suggests that the total large block effect in the model.
variation of 82.53% for yarn specific volume (BD), The adequacy measures in total were in reasonable
85.51% for yarn specific volume (AD), 80.96% for yarn agreement and indicated adequate models. The adequate
packing factor (BD), 67.42% for yarn packing factor precision compared the range of the predicted value at
(AD), 92.19% for yarn tenacity (BD), 92.82% for yarn the design points to the average prediction error. The
tenacity (AD), 68.02% for yarn wickability (BD), and value of adequate precision was significantly greater than
77.94% for yarn wickability (AD) are attributed to the four. An adequate precision ratio above 4 indicates
independent variables and only about 17.47, 14.49, adequate model efficacy (Karthik & Murugan, 2014;
19.04, 32.58, 7.91, 7.18, 31.92, and 22.06% of the total Karthik, Rathinamoorthy, & Murugan, 2011). Other
variation cannot be explained by the model, respectively. values that support the efficacy of the model and the
The closer the value of adjusted R2 to 1, the better is the relevant significant terms are given in the same table.
correlation between the experimental and predicted The ANOVA results of the selected model on
values. Here, except yarn specific volume (AD), the different yarn properties are given in Tables 6 and 7.
predicted R2 of other yarn properties are in reasonable The value of “Prob. > F” in Tables 6 and 7 for the
The Journal of The Textile Institute 57
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Figure 3. Contour plots of yarn packing factor before dissolving PVA (a) TM = 2.7, (b) TM = 2.9, and (c) TM = 3.1.
model is less than 0.05, which indicates that the model modulus and longer PVA fibers lead to better packing
is significant, which is desirable as it indicates that the in the yarn structure, thus making it compact at low
terms in the model have significant effect on the level of PVA proportion. The influence of spindle
response. The lack-of-fit can also said to be speed on yarn specific volume is very marginal at low
insignificant. This is desirable as we want a model that level of PVA% but is prominent at higher PVA
fits except for the yarn imperfection which is proportion.
significant. The yarn specific volume before dissolving PVA at
middle level of twist (TM – 2.9) and at higher level of
twist (TM – 3.1) is shown as contour plots in
Effect of process variable on yarn specific volume Figure 1(b) and (c), respectively. The trend is similar as
before and after dissolving PVA in case of low level of twist (TM – 2.7). The specific
The contour plots of yarn specific volume before volume of yarn reduces with increase in the PVA
dissolving the PVA fibers at three different level of TM proportion, but the overall specific volume of the yarn is
are shown in Figure 1. The effect of spindle speed and lower compared to the previous one. As the twist
PVA% on yarn specific volume at low level of twist increases, more lateral pressure and tension will be
(TM – 2.7) is shown as contour plots in Figure 1(a). exerted on the fibers, which helps fibers to pack more
The yarn specific volume reduces with increase in the compactly in the yarn leading to reduction of specific
PVA proportion. This could be due to the fact that high volume (Ishtiaque, Das, & Reeti, 2008).
58 V. Chandrasekaran et al.
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Figure 4. Contour plots of yarn packing factor after dissolving PVA (a) TM = 2.7, (b) TM = 2.9, and (c) TM = 3.1.
The contour plots of yarn specific volume after Effect of process variables on yarn packing factor
dissolving the PVA fibers at three different level of before and after dissolving PVA
TM are shown in Figure 2. From the Table 3 and The influence of yarn packing factor before dissolving
Figures 1 and 2, it is observed that there is an overall PVA is shown as contour plots in Figure 3. From the
increase in the yarn specific volume after removal of Figure 3, it is observed that the increase in PVA%, spindle
PVA in the yarn structure compared to before speed, and TM increases the yarn packing factor. The
dissolving the PVA. This could be due to the removal longer and high modulus PVA fibers resulted in better
of PVA fibers in the yarn structure which produces stitching of fiber assemblies in the yarn leading to a
micropores in the yarn structure and makes the yarn compact yarn structure. The increase in spindle speed and
more voluminous. The yarn specific volume after TM resulted in better alignment and compact assembling
dissolving PVA at low level of twist (TM – 2.7) is of fibers in the yarn which leads to better yarn packing
shown as contour plots in Figure 2(a). The yarn factor. The similar trend was notices at low, medium, and
specific volume is higher at low and higher levels of higher levels of TM. The overall increase in yarn packing
PVA% and at lower spindle speeds. The similar trend factor was noticed with increase in TM due to lateral force
was observed with medium and higher level of twist, exerted on fibers leading to compact yarn structure.
and overall reduction of yarn specific volume was The influence of yarn packing factor after
noticed with increase in twist level due to the compact dissolving PVA is shown as contour plots in Figure 4.
structure of fibers in the yarn.
The Journal of The Textile Institute 59
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Figure 5. Contour plots of yarn tenacity before dissolving PVA (a) TM = 2.7, (b) TM = 2.9, and (c) TM = 3.1.
By analyzing the contour plots of yarn packing factor Figure 5. From the figure, it is noticed that the yarn
before and after dissolving the PVA, it is observed tenacity increases gradually with the increase in PVA
that the overall packing factor reduces with increase proportion, spindle speed, and TM. The effect of spindle
in PVA% due to the generation of micropores or speed and PVA% on yarn tenacity at low level of twist
increase in specific volume or void space in the yarn (TM – 2.7) is shown as contour plots in Figure 5(a).
structure after dissolving PVA. This correlates well From the figure, it is observed that the yarn tenacity
with the yarn specific volume as discussed earlier i.e. increases with increase in PVA proportions and spindle
as the specific volume of yarn increases, the packing speed. The former could be due to the predominance of
factor reduces. Similar to the trend of yarn packing higher tenacity PVA fibers compared to viscose fibers in
factor before dissolving PVA, the yarn packing factor the yarn structure. The increase in tenacity with spindle
increases marginally with increase in the spindle speed could be due to the better alignment and
speed and TM. orientation of fibers without any hooks due to the
tension imparted on fibers at higher spindle speeds.
The same trend is noticed in medium and higher twist
Effect of process variable on yarn tenacity before and levels as shown in Figure 5(b), and (c) but the overall
after dissolving PVA increase in yarn tenacity with increase in twist is noticed
The contour plots of yarn tenacity before dissolving the due to the compact packing of fibers due to the lateral
PVA fibers at three different level of TM are shown in forces exhibited by twist on fibers.
60 V. Chandrasekaran et al.
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Figure 6. Contour plots of yarn tenacity after dissolving PVA TM = 2.7, (b) TM = 2.9, and (c) TM = 3.1.
The contour plots of yarn tenacity after dissolving PVA, the dissolution of PVA causes significant loss in
the PVA fibers at three different level of TM are tenacity due to the removal of more number of high
shown in Figure 6. By observing the yarn tenacity tenacity PVA fibers in the yarn structure. The yarn
before and after dissolving the PVA from the yarn tenacity is found to increase with spindle speed due to the
structure as shown in Figures 5 and 6, it is observed higher tension imparted on the fibers at higher spindle
that the yarn tenacity decreases significantly after speed. The same trend is noticed at medium and high
dissolving the PVA irrespective of PVA%, spindle level of twist i.e. the yarn tenacity decreases with increase
speed, and TM. in PVA and increases with increase in spindle speed. But,
It is observed from the Figure that there is reduction in the overall tenacity of the yarn after dissolving PVA
the yarn tenacity after removal of PVA fiber in the yarn increases with increase in TM due to the lateral forces
structure in comparison to the yarn before dissolution of imparted on fibers by twist, which makes the yarn more
PVA fiber. The yarn tenacity after dissolving PVA at low compact, thus leading to higher tenacity.
level of twist (TM – 2.7) is shown as in contour plots in
Figure 6(a). The contour shows that with increase in the
spindle speed, the yarn tenacity increases, but the increase Effect of process variable on wickability of yarn before
is not linear. At low level of PVA and higher spindle and after dissolving PVA
speed, the yarn tenacity was found higher, and at high The influence of process variable on yarn wicking
level of PVA and low level of spindle speed, the yarn property at different twist levels before dissolving the
tenacity is found to be less. At higher blend proportion of PVA is shown as contour plots in Figure 7.
The Journal of The Textile Institute 61
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Figure 7. Contour plots of yarn wickability before dissolving PVA (a) TM = 2.7, (b) TM = 2.9, and (c) TM = 3.1.
From the contour diagrams, it is observed that the compared to viscose makes more pores in the yarn
wickability of yarn before dissolving PVA decreases structure. The creation of micropores in the yarn leads
with increase in PVA%, spindle speed, and TM. The to better capillary effect resulting in increased
reduction of wickability of yarn with increase in PVA wickability of yarns. Further, it is noticed that the
proportion could be due to its low moisture regain (5%) wickability increases with increase in PVA up to
compared to viscose fibers. At higher spindle speeds and certain level and then decreases at higher PVA%. The
TM, the closer packing of fibers in the yarn could initial increase in wickability of yarns could be due to
reduce the capillary size between fibers, thus reducing the creation of micropores which resulted in better
the wickability. capillary effect. But at higher PVA%, the removal of
The contour plots of wickability of yarns after more number of PVA fibers in the yarn could have
dissolving the PVA fibers are show in Figure 8. By resulted in larger capillary size, which affects the
observing the Figures 7 and 8, it is clear that the capillary effect of water leading to decrease in
overall wickability of yarns increased significantly after wickability of yarns. Though the reduction of
dissolving the PVA irrespective of spindle speed and wickability of yarn was noticed with increase in
TM. The removal of lower moisture regain PVA fibers spindle speed and TM, it is not significant.
62 V. Chandrasekaran et al.
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Figure 8. Contour plots of yarn wickability after dissolving PVA (a) TM = 2.7, (b) TM = 2.9, and (c) TM = 3.1.
Optimization and validation of experiment model was spun with the above mentioned optimized
The point prediction tool of the design-expert software parameters, and the PVA was dissolved before testing
was used to determine the optimum values of the the yarn properties. The comparison of normal twisted
factors for better yarn properties after dissolving the viscose yarn and microporous viscose yarn produced
PVA from the yarn structure with minimum with the optimized process parameters is shown in
compromising on loss in yarn tenacity. Finally, the Table 8. From the table, it is observed that there is a
optimum values of PVA of 7%, spindle speed of better correlation between predicted and actual values
13,060 rpm, and TM of 2.7 were determined. The yarn of yarn properties after dissolving PVA. Further,
Table 8. Comparison of predicted and actual yarn properties of microporous viscose yarn obtained with optimized process
parameters along with the normal twisted 100% viscose yarn.
compared to normal twisted viscose yarn, the Hirokazu, K., Mika, M., Takahiko, N., Lina, W., & Yoichi, M.
microporous viscose yarns are having higher specific (2009). Stretch properties of cotton hollow yarns made by
hybrid open-end rotor spinning frame. Journal of Textile
volume, lower packing factor, better wickability, and
and Engineering, 55, 187–192.
lower tenacity due to the pores in the yarn structure Hui-ying, M., & Zhao-peng, X. (2006). Relationships between
created by dissolving the PVA in the yarn. different preparations of cotton hollow yarn and water
soluble PVA extraction. Journal of Dong-a University, 26,
1–4.
Conclusion Ishtiaque, S. M., Das, A., & Singh, R. P. (2008). Packing of
micro-porous yarns: Part I. Optimization of yarn
The study reveals a significant influence of process characteristics. The Journal of The Textile Institute, 99,
variables, namely PVA proportion, TM, and spindle 147–155.
speed, on micro-porous viscose yarn properties. In Karthik, T., & Murugan, R. (2013). Influence of spinning
general, the specific volume and wickability of yarn parameters on milkweed/cotton DREF-3 yarn properties.
The Journal of The Textile Institute, 104, 938–949.
decrease and packing factor and yarn tenacity increase
Karthik, T., & Murugan, R. (2014). Influence of friction
with increase in PVA%, TM, and spindle speed before spinning process parameters on spinnability of pergularia/
dissolving the PVA in yarn. But after dissolution of PVA cotton-blended yarns. Journal of Natural Fibers, 11,
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