The Journal of The Textile Institute

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Optimization of spinning parameters influencing

the characteristics of structurally modified viscose
yarn

V. Chandrasekaran, P. Senthilkumar & T. Karthik

To cite this article: V. Chandrasekaran, P. Senthilkumar & T. Karthik (2016) Optimization of

spinning parameters influencing the characteristics of structurally modified viscose yarn, The
Journal of The Textile Institute, 107:1, 50-63, DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2014.1000017

To link to this article: http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2014.1000017

Published online: 15 Jan 2015.

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 The Journal of The Textile Institute, 2016
Vol. 107, No. 1, 50–63, http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2014.1000017

Optimization of spinning parameters influencing the characteristics of structurally modified

viscose yarn
V. Chandrasekarana*, P. Senthilkumarb and T. Karthikb
a
Department of Apparel Technology, PSG Polytechnic College, Coimbatore, India; bDepartment of Textile Technology, PSG College
of Technology, Coimbatore, India
(Received 20 September 2014; accepted 15 December 2014)

Yarn structure influences the configuration of the constituent fibers in the yarn and the comfort properties of the fabrics
to a great extent. The fiber arrangement in the yarn has a major influence on the comfort-related properties such as
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thermal conductivity, air permeability, wickability, and moisture vapor permeability. This study dealt with the influence
of process and material variables namely, polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) proportion, twist multiplier (TM), and spindle speed
on microporous viscose yarn properties. Three-variable three-factor Box and Behnken method was used to investigate
the individual and interaction effects of selected variables on yarn properties. The selected variables have a significant
influence on all the yarn properties. The increase in PVA%, spindle speed, and TM reduces the specific volume and
wickability of yarns and increases the tenacity and packing factor of yarns before dissolving the PVA fibers. With
increase in spindle speed and TM, same trend was noticed after dissolving the PVA also. But the trend reverses with
increase in PVA percentage after dissolution of PVA fiber. The increase in PVA percentage increases the specific volume
and wickability of yarns and decreases the tenacity and packing factor of yarns after dissolution of PVA fiber. The
optimized process parameters were obtained, and yarn was spun with the optimized parameters to validate the model.
Keywords: micropores; specific volume; packing factor; tenacity; wicking; PVA fiber; viscose

Introduction The fiber packing coefficient plays a significant role

Thermal comfort of fabrics mainly deals with heat and
moisture transport properties of clothing and the way that
clothing helps to dissipate the body heat during various
levels of the physical activity (Tyagia, Krishna,
Bhattacharya, & Kumar, 2009). The transmission of air,
heat, and water vapor through and by a garment is the
most important factors of clothing comfort (Das &
Ishtiaque, 2004; Hes, 2008). The use of hollow or
microporous yarns plays an important role in enhancing
the thermophysiological comfort properties of fabrics.
Depending on structural variations in hollow yarn, heat
and moisture regulation behaviors of fabrics can be
affected significantly (Das, Ishtiaque, & Yadav, 2003;
Das, Kothari, & Balaji, 2007). Comfort properties of a
garment mainly depend upon the fiber disposition in the
yarns and the yarn disposition in the fabric, but much less
dependent on the inherent nature of the fiber (Hui-ying &
Xia Zhao-peng, 2006; Mukhopadhyay, Ishtiaque, &
Uttam, 2011). Hence, recently hollow/microporous yarn
spinning technique and fabric quality thereof have
attracted many research workers (Moghassem &
Gharehaghaji, 2009; Merati & Okamura, 2000, 2001).
The use of hollow yarn in the fabric is a technique used to
increase the bulk of fabrics without increasing weight,
thus improving fabric physical properties such as softness,
bulkiness, and thermophysiological properties.
in the volume of the air presence in the yarn. The air
permeability and thermal conductivity of the fabric
depends on the permeability of the heat, moisture, and
air through the fabric which has direct bearing on the
fabric comfort (Merati & Okamura, 2003). It may be
noted that the polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) fiber is soluble in
water at about 60 °C. To get hollow yarn, water-soluble
PVA filament core has to be removed later.
The studies conducted on internal structure and
properties of the hollow ring yarn and typical ring
yarns showed that the spinning-in-coefficient (Kf ) and
strength of hollow and typical ring yarns were very
close, but elongation at break, unevenness, and
hairiness of hollow ring yarn are more than those of
typical ring yarn (Hirokazu, Mika, Takahiko, Lina, &
Yoichi, 2009). The bending rigidity and air permeability
of the fabrics constructed from hollow ring weft yarn
found improved due to the collapse of the fibers in the
center of the yarn and better flattening. The axial and
lateral forces on the hollow cotton yarn structure like
diameter changes, elasticity, compressibility, and volume
were studied by Merati and Okamura (Singh,
Chatterjee, & Das, 2010).
There are few studies available which are related
to properties of friction spun core hollow yarns and
ring spun micro-porous hollow yarns by blending

*Corresponding author. Email: psgchandrasekaran@gmail.com

© 2015 The Textile Institute

 The Journal of The Textile Institute
method. However, there is a lack of literature on the
production and analysis of viscose and PVA blended
microporous yarns. This study aims to optimize the
spinning variables for the production of viscose
microporous yarns which affect the packing
characteristics. The variables selected for this study
were proportion of PVA fiber blended with viscose,
twist multiplier (TM), and spindle speed in ring frame.
A three-variable Box–Behnken method has been used
to produce the yarn samples and analyze the
interaction effect of selected variables on yarn
properties before and after dissolving the PVA fibers
were reported.
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Materials and methods
Materials
The staple viscose fiber (denier – 1.07, 2.5% span length
– 44.3 mm, fiber tenacity – 2.76 g/d, elongation –
18.72%, specific volume −1.51 cm3/gm) and water-
soluble PVA staple fiber (denier – 1.38, 2.5% span
length – 40.3 mm, tenacity – 7.04 g/d, elongation –
10.9%) were used for the production of microporous
viscose yarns.
Methods
Experimental design and yarn production
The viscose and PVA blended yarn samples were
prepared on a laboratory model spinning line (Trytex,
India). The slivers were prepared on a miniature
model carding and draw frame machine. The viscose
and PVA fibers were mixed manually prior to the
carding with three different blend proportions. The
carded web was collected in the front of card by a
drum. The web was again processed in the card and
collected as a sliver in a can by means of trumpet.
The carded slivers were given two draw frame passage
with six doublings each in a miniature draw frame
machine (Karthik & Murugan, 2013). The sliver
weight was maintained as 3.69 ktex.
In this research, a three-level and three-variable
factorial designs, proposed by Box and Behnken, were
used to investigate the influence of variables and their
interaction on yarn properties. Box–Behnken design
requires an experiment number according to
N = k2 + k + cp, where (k) is the factor number and (cp)
is the replicate number of the central point. The most
important parameters which affect the packing of fibers
in the yarn blend proportion of PVA, TM, and spindle
speed have been selected for the study. The levels of
TM and spindle speed have been chosen based on the
count spun. The levels of PVA blend proportion have
been selected based on the preliminary trials conducted
51
by varying PVA proportions from 3 to 50%. The PVA
proportion more than 15% leads to drastic reduction in
mechanical properties of fabrics after dissolving the
PVA component. The PVA proportion less than 5%
does not have significant effect on yarn characteristics.
In order to study the combined effect of these factors,
experiments were performed at different combinations
of the physical parameters using statistically designed
experiments.
A multiple regression analysis is done to obtain the
coefficients, and the equation can be used to predict the
response. The design is preferred because relatively few
experimental combinations of the variables are adequate
to estimate potentially complex response functions. A
total of 15 experiments were necessary to estimate the
10 coefficients of the model using multiple linear
regression analysis. Table 1 shows the input parameters
and experimental design levels used in this work.
The experimental data were analyzed using the
statistical software, Design=Expert software version
8.0.7.1 (STAT-EASE Inc., Minneapolis, US), for
regression analysis to fit the equations developed and
also for the evaluation of the statistical significance of
the equations. Statistical significance of the equation was
determined with ANOVA feature of the Design-Expert
software. Subsequently, the feasibility and grid searches
were performed to locate the composition of optimum
formulations. The yarn count were kept coarser by 5, 10,
and 15% (as per the blend proportion of PVA) in order
to get the nominal count of 30s Ne after dissolving the
PVA fibers.
Dissolving the PVA fiber
The microporous viscose yarns were produced by
dissolving the PVA fiber in the yarn. For dissolving the
PVA fibers, the yarn in the hank form is treated in the
hot water at 90 °C temperature for 20–30 min with
occasional stirring. Then, the hanks of the yarn are taken
out, washed with running water, followed by warm
water, and thoroughly dried in an oven and then
conditioned for 24 h under standard atmospheric
condition to get standard moisture content. Proper care
has been taken to ensure that all the PVA fibers are
removed from the yarn.
Table 1. Coded levels and actual values for processing
viscose/PVA blended yarns.
Coded levels
Variables −1 0 +1
PVA proportion (%) (X1) 5 10 15
Twist multiplier TM (X2) 2.7 2.9 3.1
Spindle speed (rpm) (X3) 10,000 13,000 16,000
 52 V. Chandrasekaran et al.

Table 2. Details of yarn characteristics tested.

Sl. No Yarn particulars Instrument used
1 Yarn count Wrap reel
2 Single yarn TPI Electronic twist tester
(Untwist-Retwist)
3 Single thread strength Uster tensojet 4
and breaking elongation
4 Yarn diameter Leica polarized
microscope with CCD
Camera
Number of tests
Test method/procedure carried out
ASTM D1907–07 3 test/cop = 30 test
ASTM D1422–99 10 test/cop = 100 test
ASTM D 2256-02 (500 mm tests length 20 test/cop = 200 test
and 5000 mm/min extension rate)
Using glass slide, camera, and software 200 measurements have
been taken per sample

Table 3. Physical properties of yarns.

PVA% TM Spindle speed Count Ne Count Ne TPI TPI Yarn diameter Yarn diameter
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Std. order (X1) (X2) (rpm) (X3) (BD) (AD) (BD) (AD) (μm) (BD) (μm) (AD)
100% Viscose 0 2.9 13,000 30.2 – 19.2 – 162 –
(control)
1 5 2.7 13,000 28.8 29.7 16.8 17.2 239 238
2 15 2.7 13,000 25.4 30.5 16.2 16.5 223 247
3 5 3.1 13,000 28.2 29.4 20.6 20.8 201 212
4 15 3.1 13,000 25.2 29.2 21.0 21.1 199 202
5 5 2.9 10,000 28.9 30.7 19.1 19.3 223 217
6 15 2.9 10,000 25.8 30.1 18.9 19.5 217 206
7 5 2.9 16,000 29.1 29.7 18.6 18.8 223 222
8 15 2.9 16,000 25.5 29.3 19.0 19.1 205 204
9 10 2.7 10,000 27.2 30.4 16.3 16.9 242 229
10 10 3.1 10,000 27.4 30.6 20.2 20.6 190 172
11 10 2.7 16,000 26.7 29.2 17.1 17.4 218 224
12 10 3.1 16,000 26.9 30.9 20.7 21.1 182 170
13 10 2.9 13,000 26.5 30.4 18.6 19.1 202 203
14 10 2.9 13,000 27.2 30.1 18.5 18.9 206 211
15 10 2.9 13,000 27.5 29.3 18.9 19.3 207 203
*BD – Before dissolving PVA, AD – After dissolving PVA.

Table 4. Box–Behnken design along with actual and predicted values of responses.

Yarn Yarn
Spindle Specific Wicking Wicking
PVA Speed Tenacity Tenacity Specific volume Packing Packing Height Height
% TM (rpm) (BD) (AD) volume (BD) (AD) factor factor (cm) (cm)
Std. order (X1) (X2) (X3) cN/Tex cN/Tex cm3/g cm3/g (BD) (AD) (BD) (AD)
100% viscose 0 2.9 13,000 17.74 – 1.41 – 0.403 – 5.1 –
(control)
1 5 2.7 13,000 15.99 12.12 2.18 2.24 0.302 0.294 7.8 8.6
2 15 2.7 13,000 19.52 10.75 1.68 2.47 0.392 0.266 6.4 6.7
3 5 3.1 13,000 17.24 14.75 1.51 1.75 0.436 0.376 7.5 8.2
4 15 3.1 13,000 21.55 14.5 1.33 1.59 0.495 0.414 7.1 7.3
5 5 2.9 10,000 17.12 12.86 1.91 1.93 0.345 0.341 7.6 8.4
6 15 2.9 10,000 19.75 12.92 1.61 1.69 0.409 0.389 6.6 7.0
7 5 2.9 16,000 17.88 13.85 1.92 1.95 0.343 0.337 7.1 7.3
8 15 2.9 16,000 21.85 13.75 1.42 1.62 0.463 0.406 6.4 7.4
9 10 2.7 10,000 18.43 11.37 2.12 2.19 0.310 0.300 7.3 9.8
10 10 3.1 10,000 19.53 14.1 1.31 1.21 0.502 0.544 7.0 9.2
11 10 2.7 16,000 20.35 12.76 1.69 1.95 0.389 0.337 6.8 8.8
12 10 3.1 16,000 22.95 15.85 1.19 1.19 0.553 0.553 6.5 8.2
13 10 2.9 13,000 19.52 13.25 1.44 1.66 0.457 0.396 6.9 9.4
14 10 2.9 13,000 18.66 13.45 1.53 1.78 0.430 0.370 7.1 8.7
15 10 2.9 13,000 19.29 13.49 1.57 1.61 0.419 0.409 6.5 9.2
*BD – Before dissolving PVA, AD – After dissolving PVA.
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Table 5. Regression equations for various yarn properties before and after dissolving PVA.

Adj Pred Adeq

Yarn properties Regression equation R2 R2 R2 precision
Specific Volume 1.94 − 0.014 X1 − 0.19 X2 + 0.043 X1X2 − 0.017 X2 X3 + 0.059 X12 − 0.16 X22 − 0.051 X32 0.9114 0.8253 0.6944 8.8437
(BD)
Specific Volume 1.95 − 0.013 X1 − 0.17 X2 + 0.018 X2 X3 + 0.040 X12 −0.053 X22 − 0.058 X32 0.9014 0.8551 0.2940 11.0675
(AD)
Packing factor(BD) 0.76 + 0.013 X1 + 0.055 X2 + 0.012 X3 − 0.013 X1 X2 + 0.013 X2 X3 − 0.020 X22 0.8504 0.8096 0.7048 14.2428
Packing factor(AD) 0.62 + 0.014 X1 + 0.034 X2 − 0.015 X1X2 − 0.019 X12 + 0.014 X32 0.8975 0.6742 0.5854 7.5826
Tenacity(BD) 19.16+1.80X1+0.87 X2+1.03X3+0.20 X1 X2+0.34 X1 X3 +0.37X2X3 − 0.87 X12A2+0.29 X22 + 0.87 X32 0.9721 0.9219 0.6640 15.1442
Tenacity(AD) 13.40 − 0.21 X1 + 1.52 X2 + 0.62 X3 + 0.28 X1 X2 −0.040 X1 X3 + 0.090 X2X3 − 0.27 X12 −0.096 X22 + 0.22 0.9744 0.9282 0.6093 16.7201
X32
Yarn Wicking (BD) 6.70 − 0.26 X1 − 0.100 X2 −0.24 X3 + 0.000 X1X2 + 0.22 X1 X3 + 0.49 X12 + 0.26 X22 − 0.41 X32 0.9511 0.6802 0.5930 8.8412
Yarn Wicking (AD) 7.30 − 0.31 X1 − 0.013 X2 + 0.050 X3 −0.025 X1 X2 + 0.000 X1 X3 + 0.050 X2 X3 + 0.26 X12 − 0.037 X22 0.9104 0.7794 0.6721 6.8208
The Journal of The Textile Institute

−0.11 X32
53
 54 V. Chandrasekaran et al.

Table 6. ANOVA results of selected model for yarn properties before dissolving PVA.

Specific volume Packing factor Tenacity Wicking height

Source F-value p-value F-value p-value F-value p-value F-value p-value
Model 6.30283 0.010* 20.846 <0.0001* 19.369 0.002* 7.80134 0.004*
A-PVA% 11.3702 0.009* 13.991 0.0033* 94.468 0.000* 18.8866 0.001*
B-TM 12.1514 0.008* 44.369 <0.0001* 22.073 0.005* 0.06167 0.808
C-Spindle Speed 10.02543 0.007* 8.1794 0.0456* 30.463 0.002* 4.45570 0.048*
AB 1.06310 0.332 0.5512 0.491
AC 0.41527 0.537 1.6270 0.258
BC 12.7915 0.007* 2.0387 0.212
A2 10.207 0.024*
B2 1.1384 0.33
C2 10.051 0.024*
Lack of Fit 6.90889 0.131 2.9447 0.2792 1.6530 0.398 0.83948 0.652
*Significant difference (p < 0.05).
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Table 7. ANOVA results of selected model for yarn properties after dissolving PVA.

Specific volume Packing factor Tenacity Wicking height

Source F-value p-value F-value p-value F-Value p-value F-value p-value
Model 10.1822 0.009* 7.591 0.005* 21.1231 0.0018* 6.4976 0.026*
A-PVA% 14.7538 0.032* 10.74 0.037* 20.8603 0.005* 10.532 0.022*
B-TM 67.8521 0.000* 21.87 0.000* 154.496 <0.0001* 10.6265 0.02*
C-Spindle Speed 10.6741 0.041* 8.159 0.046* 25.5365 0.0039* 4.5676 0.085
AB 2.1340 0.203 2.60414 0.1675 1.2531 0.313
AC 0.1136 0.749 0.05314 0.8268 2.8195 0.154
BC 0.6790 0.447 0.26905 0.6261 0.00 1.000
A2 12.5231 0.016* 2.24901 0.1940 38.244 0.001*
B2 1.4390 0.284 0.28159 0.6184 0.0260 0.878
C2 3.5923 0.116 1.47277 0.2791 0.3499 0.579
Lack of Fit 3.2237 0.245 8.211 0.113 11.4727 0.0812 1.8910 0.364
*Significant difference (p < 0.05).

Evaluation of yarn properties
The details of instrument used, testing standards, and
the number of samples tested for each yarn
characteristics are given in Table 2. All the tests
were carried out after conditioning the samples in
standard atmospheric conditions, that is 27.0 ± 2 °C
and 65 ± 2%.
The yarn diameter of the samples has been measured
using polarized light microscope. The yarns were placed
on the glass slide without tension, and the yarn diameter
was measured by taking the image and by using the
Motic Plus 2.0 software.
The wickability of fabrics is determined by the
vertical wicking test as per AATCC 197–2011 standard.
The fabric specimen of 20 cm × 2.5 cm was hung
vertically on a holder. The specimen was then dipped in
water solution of 2 gpl reactive dye up to a mark made
at a distance of 2 cm from the edge of the fabric. The
vertical wickability, expressed as the wicking height in
cm, is then noted after a time interval of 15 min. The
yarn specific volume and yarn packing fraction were
calculated as given by the formula.
Yarn specific volume, cm3/g = πd2/(4 × 10−5 X yarn
tex)
Yarn packing fraction = Specific volume of viscose
fiber (cm3/g)/Yarn specific volume (cm3/g).
where d is the average diameter of the yarn in cm
and viscose fiber density = 1.52 cm3/g
Results and discussion
Physical properties of yarn
The Table 3 shows the physical properties of yarns such
as count, TPI, and yarn diameter before and after
dissolution of PVA. For compassion purpose, the results
of 100% viscose yarns produced at zero coded values
are also given in the same table.
From the Table 3, it is observed that the yarn
count becomes finer after the dissolution of PVA due
 The Journal of The Textile Institute
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Figure 1. Contour plots of yarn specific volume before dissolving PVA (a) TM = 2.7, (b) TM = 2.9, and (c) TM = 3.1.
to the removal of PVA fibers from the yarn structure.
Since the yarns were spun coarser than the nominal
count before dissolving the PVA, the yarn count
becomes finer and is closer to the nominal count of
30s Ne after dissolution of PVA. Though slight
increase in twist of yarns after dissolving PVA was
noticed which could be due to the shrinkage of yarns
during washing in loose form, there is no significant
change in TPI of yarn before and after dissolving
PVA were observed. The yarn diameter values before
and after dissolution of PVA were used to calculate
the yarn specific volume and packing factor of yarns.
The design matrix of the variables in the actual units
along with their yarn properties before and after
dissolving the PVA fibers along with the results of
100% viscose yarns produced at zero coded values is
given in Table 4.
55
Model building and statistical analysis of yarn
properties
The empirical relationships for yarn specific volume
BD (Y1), yarn specific volume AD (Y2), yarn packing
factor BD (Y3), yarn packing factor AD (Y4), yarn
tenacity BD (Y5), yarn tenacity AD (Y6), wicking
height (Y7), wicking height AD (Y8), and the tested
variables were obtained by application of RSM. The
final mathematical model in terms of coded factors as
determined by Design-Expert software is shown in the
Table 5. The regression coefficient (R2) value indicates
a good correlation of selected experimental region
with the physical properties of yarn. The model with
the R2 ≥ 0.6 (60%) can be considered as a valid
model.
The goodness of the model can be checked by the
determination coefficient R2 and the adjusted R2
 56 V. Chandrasekaran et al.
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Figure 2. Contour plots of yarn specific volume after dissolving PVA (a) TM = 2.7, (b) TM = 2.9, and (c) TM = 3.1.

(multiple correlation coefficient R). The value of
adjusted R2 of 0.8253, 0.8551, 0.8096, 0.6742, 0.9219,
0.9282, 0.6802, and 0.7794 suggests that the total
variation of 82.53% for yarn specific volume (BD),
85.51% for yarn specific volume (AD), 80.96% for yarn
packing factor (BD), 67.42% for yarn packing factor
(AD), 92.19% for yarn tenacity (BD), 92.82% for yarn
tenacity (AD), 68.02% for yarn wickability (BD), and
77.94% for yarn wickability (AD) are attributed to the
independent variables and only about 17.47, 14.49,
19.04, 32.58, 7.91, 7.18, 31.92, and 22.06% of the total
variation cannot be explained by the model, respectively.
The closer the value of adjusted R2 to 1, the better is the
correlation between the experimental and predicted
values. Here, except yarn specific volume (AD), the
predicted R2 of other yarn properties are in reasonable
agreement with the adjusted R2. The large deviation
between adjusted R2 and predicted R2 may indicate a
large block effect in the model.
The adequacy measures in total were in reasonable
agreement and indicated adequate models. The adequate
precision compared the range of the predicted value at
the design points to the average prediction error. The
value of adequate precision was significantly greater than
four. An adequate precision ratio above 4 indicates
adequate model efficacy (Karthik & Murugan, 2014;
Karthik, Rathinamoorthy, & Murugan, 2011). Other
values that support the efficacy of the model and the
relevant significant terms are given in the same table.
The ANOVA results of the selected model on
different yarn properties are given in Tables 6 and 7.
The value of “Prob. > F” in Tables 6 and 7 for the
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Figure 3. Contour plots of yarn packing factor before dissolving PVA (a) TM = 2.7, (b) TM = 2.9, and (c) TM = 3.1.
model is less than 0.05, which indicates that the model
is significant, which is desirable as it indicates that the
terms in the model have significant effect on the
response. The lack-of-fit can also said to be
insignificant. This is desirable as we want a model that
fits except for the yarn imperfection which is
significant.
Effect of process variable on yarn specific volume
before and after dissolving PVA
The contour plots of yarn specific volume before
dissolving the PVA fibers at three different level of TM
are shown in Figure 1. The effect of spindle speed and
PVA% on yarn specific volume at low level of twist
(TM – 2.7) is shown as contour plots in Figure 1(a).
The yarn specific volume reduces with increase in the
PVA proportion. This could be due to the fact that high
57
modulus and longer PVA fibers lead to better packing
in the yarn structure, thus making it compact at low
level of PVA proportion. The influence of spindle
speed on yarn specific volume is very marginal at low
level of PVA% but is prominent at higher PVA
proportion.
The yarn specific volume before dissolving PVA at
middle level of twist (TM – 2.9) and at higher level of
twist (TM – 3.1) is shown as contour plots in
Figure 1(b) and (c), respectively. The trend is similar as
in case of low level of twist (TM – 2.7). The specific
volume of yarn reduces with increase in the PVA
proportion, but the overall specific volume of the yarn is
lower compared to the previous one. As the twist
increases, more lateral pressure and tension will be
exerted on the fibers, which helps fibers to pack more
compactly in the yarn leading to reduction of specific
volume (Ishtiaque, Das, & Reeti, 2008).
 58 V. Chandrasekaran et al.
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Figure 4. Contour plots of yarn packing factor after dissolving PVA (a) TM = 2.7, (b) TM = 2.9, and (c) TM = 3.1.
The contour plots of yarn specific volume after
dissolving the PVA fibers at three different level of
TM are shown in Figure 2. From the Table 3 and
Figures 1 and 2, it is observed that there is an overall
increase in the yarn specific volume after removal of
PVA in the yarn structure compared to before
dissolving the PVA. This could be due to the removal
of PVA fibers in the yarn structure which produces
micropores in the yarn structure and makes the yarn
more voluminous. The yarn specific volume after
dissolving PVA at low level of twist (TM – 2.7) is
shown as contour plots in Figure 2(a). The yarn
specific volume is higher at low and higher levels of
PVA% and at lower spindle speeds. The similar trend
was observed with medium and higher level of twist,
and overall reduction of yarn specific volume was
noticed with increase in twist level due to the compact
structure of fibers in the yarn.
Effect of process variables on yarn packing factor
before and after dissolving PVA
The influence of yarn packing factor before dissolving
PVA is shown as contour plots in Figure 3. From the
Figure 3, it is observed that the increase in PVA%, spindle
speed, and TM increases the yarn packing factor. The
longer and high modulus PVA fibers resulted in better
stitching of fiber assemblies in the yarn leading to a
compact yarn structure. The increase in spindle speed and
TM resulted in better alignment and compact assembling
of fibers in the yarn which leads to better yarn packing
factor. The similar trend was notices at low, medium, and
higher levels of TM. The overall increase in yarn packing
factor was noticed with increase in TM due to lateral force
exerted on fibers leading to compact yarn structure.
The influence of yarn packing factor after
dissolving PVA is shown as contour plots in Figure 4.
 The Journal of The Textile Institute
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Figure 5. Contour plots of yarn tenacity before dissolving PVA (a) TM = 2.7, (b) TM = 2.9, and (c) TM = 3.1.
By analyzing the contour plots of yarn packing factor
before and after dissolving the PVA, it is observed
that the overall packing factor reduces with increase
in PVA% due to the generation of micropores or
increase in specific volume or void space in the yarn
structure after dissolving PVA. This correlates well
with the yarn specific volume as discussed earlier i.e.
as the specific volume of yarn increases, the packing
factor reduces. Similar to the trend of yarn packing
factor before dissolving PVA, the yarn packing factor
increases marginally with increase in the spindle
speed and TM.
Effect of process variable on yarn tenacity before and
after dissolving PVA
The contour plots of yarn tenacity before dissolving the
PVA fibers at three different level of TM are shown in
59
Figure 5. From the figure, it is noticed that the yarn
tenacity increases gradually with the increase in PVA
proportion, spindle speed, and TM. The effect of spindle
speed and PVA% on yarn tenacity at low level of twist
(TM – 2.7) is shown as contour plots in Figure 5(a).
From the figure, it is observed that the yarn tenacity
increases with increase in PVA proportions and spindle
speed. The former could be due to the predominance of
higher tenacity PVA fibers compared to viscose fibers in
the yarn structure. The increase in tenacity with spindle
speed could be due to the better alignment and
orientation of fibers without any hooks due to the
tension imparted on fibers at higher spindle speeds.
The same trend is noticed in medium and higher twist
levels as shown in Figure 5(b), and (c) but the overall
increase in yarn tenacity with increase in twist is noticed
due to the compact packing of fibers due to the lateral
forces exhibited by twist on fibers.
 60 V. Chandrasekaran et al.
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Figure 6. Contour plots of yarn tenacity after dissolving PVA TM = 2.7, (b) TM = 2.9, and (c) TM = 3.1.
The contour plots of yarn tenacity after dissolving
the PVA fibers at three different level of TM are
shown in Figure 6. By observing the yarn tenacity
before and after dissolving the PVA from the yarn
structure as shown in Figures 5 and 6, it is observed
that the yarn tenacity decreases significantly after
dissolving the PVA irrespective of PVA%, spindle
speed, and TM.
It is observed from the Figure that there is reduction in
the yarn tenacity after removal of PVA fiber in the yarn
structure in comparison to the yarn before dissolution of
PVA fiber. The yarn tenacity after dissolving PVA at low
level of twist (TM – 2.7) is shown as in contour plots in
Figure 6(a). The contour shows that with increase in the
spindle speed, the yarn tenacity increases, but the increase
is not linear. At low level of PVA and higher spindle
speed, the yarn tenacity was found higher, and at high
level of PVA and low level of spindle speed, the yarn
tenacity is found to be less. At higher blend proportion of
PVA, the dissolution of PVA causes significant loss in
tenacity due to the removal of more number of high
tenacity PVA fibers in the yarn structure. The yarn
tenacity is found to increase with spindle speed due to the
higher tension imparted on the fibers at higher spindle
speed. The same trend is noticed at medium and high
level of twist i.e. the yarn tenacity decreases with increase
in PVA and increases with increase in spindle speed. But,
the overall tenacity of the yarn after dissolving PVA
increases with increase in TM due to the lateral forces
imparted on fibers by twist, which makes the yarn more
compact, thus leading to higher tenacity.
Effect of process variable on wickability of yarn before
and after dissolving PVA
The influence of process variable on yarn wicking
property at different twist levels before dissolving the
PVA is shown as contour plots in Figure 7.
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Figure 7. Contour plots of yarn wickability before dissolving PVA (a) TM = 2.7, (b) TM = 2.9, and (c) TM = 3.1.

From the contour diagrams, it is observed that the
wickability of yarn before dissolving PVA decreases
with increase in PVA%, spindle speed, and TM. The
reduction of wickability of yarn with increase in PVA
proportion could be due to its low moisture regain (5%)
compared to viscose fibers. At higher spindle speeds and
TM, the closer packing of fibers in the yarn could
reduce the capillary size between fibers, thus reducing
the wickability.
The contour plots of wickability of yarns after
dissolving the PVA fibers are show in Figure 8. By
observing the Figures 7 and 8, it is clear that the
overall wickability of yarns increased significantly after
dissolving the PVA irrespective of spindle speed and
TM. The removal of lower moisture regain PVA fibers
compared to viscose makes more pores in the yarn
structure. The creation of micropores in the yarn leads
to better capillary effect resulting in increased
wickability of yarns. Further, it is noticed that the
wickability increases with increase in PVA up to
certain level and then decreases at higher PVA%. The
initial increase in wickability of yarns could be due to
the creation of micropores which resulted in better
capillary effect. But at higher PVA%, the removal of
more number of PVA fibers in the yarn could have
resulted in larger capillary size, which affects the
capillary effect of water leading to decrease in
wickability of yarns. Though the reduction of
wickability of yarn was noticed with increase in
spindle speed and TM, it is not significant.
 62 V. Chandrasekaran et al.
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Figure 8. Contour plots of yarn wickability after dissolving PVA (a) TM = 2.7, (b) TM = 2.9, and (c) TM = 3.1.

Optimization and validation of experiment model
The point prediction tool of the design-expert software
was used to determine the optimum values of the
factors for better yarn properties after dissolving the
PVA from the yarn structure with minimum
compromising on loss in yarn tenacity. Finally, the
optimum values of PVA of 7%, spindle speed of
13,060 rpm, and TM of 2.7 were determined. The yarn
was spun with the above mentioned optimized
parameters, and the PVA was dissolved before testing
the yarn properties. The comparison of normal twisted
viscose yarn and microporous viscose yarn produced
with the optimized process parameters is shown in
Table 8. From the table, it is observed that there is a
better correlation between predicted and actual values
of yarn properties after dissolving PVA. Further,

Table 8. Comparison of predicted and actual yarn properties of microporous viscose yarn obtained with optimized process
parameters along with the normal twisted 100% viscose yarn.

Microporous viscose yarn

Yarn characteristics Normal twisted viscose yarn Predicted Actual
Tenacity (cN/tex) 13.76 11.98 11.24
Specific volume (cm3/g) 1.69 2.23 2.47
Packing factor 0.38 0.29 0.28
Wicking height (cm) 5.49 9.17 9.65
 The Journal of The Textile Institute
compared to normal twisted viscose yarn, the
microporous viscose yarns are having higher specific
volume, lower packing factor, better wickability, and
lower tenacity due to the pores in the yarn structure
created by dissolving the PVA in the yarn.
Conclusion
The study reveals a significant influence of process
variables, namely PVA proportion, TM, and spindle
speed, on micro-porous viscose yarn properties. In
general, the specific volume and wickability of yarn
decrease and packing factor and yarn tenacity increase
with increase in PVA%, TM, and spindle speed before
dissolving the PVA in yarn. But after dissolution of PVA
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in yarn structure, the specific volume and wickability of
yarn increase and tenacity and packing factor decrease
with increase in PVA% due to dissolution of PVA and
generation of micropores in yarn. Further, with increase
in the spindle speed and TM, the same trend was noticed
as before dissolution of PVA. The yarn produced from
the optimized process parameters showed better
correlation with the predicted yarn properties.
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