Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
5” (42cm)
An original pattern by Laurie S. Wagner ©2017, 2019
Sewing the head, arms and legs: Freezer paper template method. Fabric is sewn before cutting out.
1. Trace patterns onto freezer paper with a fine point permanent pen: 2 arms, 2 legs, and 1 head. Cut out the
paper pattern pieces leaving some paper outside the lines. These are templates, so the pen line is the stitching
line (except openings have seam allowances). You will sew through the paper for better control.
2. Fold fabric with right sides together. See layout diagram. Iron the head, arms, and legs templates onto the
wrong side of the fabric, medium heat for a few seconds. Be sure that the greater stretch goes across the
pieces, not up and down. Place a few pins through both layers of fabric to prevent shifting.
3. With a very fine stitch, machine sew around the head, arm and leg templates, leaving openings where
indicated. Go slowly, lifting the presser foot every few stitches on the curves to avoid stretching the fabric.
4. Peel the paper away carefully. It helps to crease the paper along the stitching first.
5. Cut out the sewn fabric pieces leaving 1/4” (6mm) seams outside the stitching.
6. Carefully cut opening in the back of the head.
7. Legs: Being careful to make a left and a right leg, trim the top inner legs as indicated on the pattern.
8. Feet: With top foot seam matched to bottom foot seam, sew across the toe opening.
1. Trace 1 front and 1 back onto freezer paper with a fine point permanent pen. Cut out the paper pieces.
2. Iron the patterns onto a single layer of fabric, medium heat for a few seconds. Be sure that the greater stretch
goes across the pieces, not up and down. See layout diagram.
3. Cut out. Peel off the paper. On wrong side of fabric, mark darts and breast stitching lines.
4. Front: Stay-stitch along breast shaping lines, twice for strength, to prevent stretching. Secure the thread ends
so that they will not pull out. Sew darts, trim seams.
5. Back: Sew back dart. Trim seam, clip curve.
6. Sew front to back, right sides together, leaving armholes and entire bottom below hips open.
7. Trim seams. Clip inward curves, notch outward curves.
8. Paint all edges with textile medium to prevent runs. Let dry.
9. Turn pieces right side out, using the hemostats.
Any flexible wire that will hold a pose can be used, but brass and copper wire are
strong, flexible and resist breaking. They must be solid wire, not strands, to hold a
pose. Brass wire is uncoated. Copper indoor electrical wire is usually plastic coated.
If it is not, wrap it with white tape to conceal the color. White duct tape is strong
and flexible for wrapping joins. The tape and wire are found in hardware stores.
1. Following the full-size armature pattern, cut body wire and bend it in
half, then bend back foot loops.
2. With duct tape, wrap the spine at the waist. Wrap the feet, covering the
cut wire ends securely.
3. Cut arm wire and fold back hand loops.
4. Make hands: Cut brass wire in half. Wrap one end of one piece around a
wrist. Following the full-size hand armature diagram, wrap wire in and
out of loop, shaping fingers and thumb. Finish by wrapping the end
around the wrist and up the forearm. With white floral tape, wrap
fingers and thumb, then wrap palm and wrist, covering the cut ends
securely. Floral tape can be found in craft supply shops.
5. Place the arm wire across the back of the body wire as shown on
diagram. Wrap with duct tape to hold securely. Bend armature at hips
and shoulders.
Stuffing Tips:
Body parts should be firm but soft, for flexibility. Don’t overstuff, causing strain on the fabric.
Use a type of filling that packs easily and is not too springy, such as wool or Mountain Mist Fiberloft.
Use hemostats to position small pieces around all sides of the wire.
To smooth away bumps, use a fine strong needle to poke through the skin and gently move the filling
around. Be careful not to snag the surface.
Breasts: With hemostats, place two balls of filling between fabric and chest
filling, above the breast stay-stitching line. Continue stuffing the belly and
hips.
Buttocks: Ladder stitch the back and front together between the star
markings at crotch, leaving hips open. Insert a ball of filling through each leg
opening, forming buttocks.
Stuff the Arms: Pull the arm fabric onto the hand wires like gloves. Keep
the top folded down to make it easier to stuff the hands.
Stuff the fingers and thumbs with tiny bits of filling, centering the wires.
Stuff the hand lightly, keeping it flat.
Stuff the wrists and arms, centering the wire.
Place a small ball of filling in each elbow.
Sculpt neck front: Enter D, exit neck at I, enter H, exit B, enter B, exit G, enter F, exit E. Pull to indent slightly.
Enter E, exit D. Repeat neck stitches, ending at D. Knot and cut thread.
Sculpt Buttocks: Anchor thread at K on crotch seam. Enter K, exit bottom of back dart L. Wrap thread downward to
enter K, exit L, enter K, exit L. Pull thread to indent buttocks crease. Anchor thread at L, but don’t cut.
Sculpt Navel: Enter L, exit center front N. Enter N, exit M. Enter M, exit N, enter N, exit M. Pull thread to indent
navel. Knot at M, cut thread.
Sculpt Hands: Anchor thread on seam at E. Enter E, exit on seam at F, wrap thread across inner wrist, enter E, exit
F, wrap thread across inner wrist, enter E, exit G in palm of hand.
Pull thread gently to define wrist. Anchor thread at G. Enter G, exit H, enter G, exit H, enter G, exit E. Knot and cut
thread.
With hemostats, push neck into head opening, folding seam to inside. Add or remove filling if necessary.
Look at the front to adjust the neck length. Pin head in place.
With ladder stitch, sew head to neck all the way around twice. Knot securely.