Question

Explain how choices regarding extraction and maturation influence the style of the following wines:

Côtes de Provence Rosé (20% weighting)

Tokaji Aszú (40% weighting)
Yarra Valley Pinot Noir (40% weighting)

Response
Provence
Côtes de Provence rosé is usually pale salmon/pink colour given by the direct press method — the
pneumatic press is particularly popular for gentle extraction. This is due to consumer demand for the
colour.

Fermentation is in inert temperature controlled vessels (usually stainless steel) w/ temperatures around 13–
18ºC for maximum preservation of primary fruit but without the banana/pear drop flavours of cold
fermentation.

Yeasts are usually cultured — bred to maximise primary fruit flavour & perform fermentation to dry under
cooler temperatures. This allows for a predictable & consistent product year on year, important for the
mass appeal of this style.

Maturation is brief and usually in inert vessels (e.g. steel) w/ temperature control — creamy (lees) & spice
(oak) flavours are usually are not a feature of this style (except e.g. Ch. d’Esclans) — this further emphasise
primary fruit and an early drinking approach/style.

Protective handling is practiced throughout the process — vessels are filled w/ inert gas to preserve
primary fruit.

Tokaji Aszú
This is made with Aszú berries which are too sweet to ferment alone, so either whole or mashed berries
are macerated in a plain must, fermenting must, or finished wine.

Mashed berries are traditional and maximise extraction but risk introducing bitterness if grapes are not
perfectly healthy & of high quality.

The maceration base (must or wine) is usually not Aszú level but may be (partially) botrytised, which
introduces orange peel/marmalade/honey flavours but may also cover up the Aszú flavour. The maceration
base must be minimum 12% potential alcohol; 14% is common as adding Aszú berries dilutes it. The base
is usually Furmint or Harslevelu.

Maceration is 12–60 hours depending on how intense the Aszú character should be relative to the base
wine.
The whole is then pressed & fermented. Natural yeasts may provide a unique aromatic profile but cultured
yeasts perform more reliably given the high sugar levels. Temperatures are 13–20ºC — a cooler
temperature gives purer fruit arguably w/ less complexity (especially of non-primary aromas). It may stop
naturally (~13% ABV) or be halted by chilling, racking, or adding SO2. Fermentation may be in inert (steel,
concrete) or oak (traditional 136L Hungarian; French; or American) of varying age. Inert vessels especially
steel give a purer fruit character and allow temperature control for a more predictable ferment, but oak
ferments give better integration of oak flavours if oak ageing is to be done.

Maturation is minimum 2 yrs in oak of any age/size. Small oak gives higher micro oxygenation for a softer
texture and potentially more oak spice (if new); large barrels are more subtle. American oak has the
sweetest vanilla flavour and most aromatic influence; small barrels may also contribute tannins. There is
potential for mild oxidation if headspace is left in the barrel or barrel is not topped up.

Yarra
This is often made with cold soaking to enhance colour w/o tannins as tannins are better extracted in
ethanol than H2O. The deep colour is mainly for consumer demand.

At ferment, these may be only crushed fruit; or w/ stems included to improve tannic structure complexity;
or whole berries or bunches added to crushed fruit to improve tannic structure (if stems), and enhance
perfume via the intracellular fermentation given by the whole berries (anaerobic environment due to being
submerged in juice & skins).

Temperatures are medium (20–25ºC) to balance fruity primary character with tannic structure; the trend is
for early–medium drinking styles so warm temps are avoided as this would give too much tannin & non-
fruit character. Stems (if used) may be kept in for the whole ferment or only part of it — overuse can give
overly harsh & grippy tannins, and under-ripe ones impart a green bitterness.

It is common to use natural yeast, following the trend for terroir expressivity & artisanal methods
— predictability is not the priority & vintage variation is embraced. Vessels are usually steel or cement (for
an overt primary fruit character) or wood (for more integration of tannins/softer mouthfeel). Amphorae may
be used to strike a balance of the 2 extremes.

Post-fermentation maceration may be used to further improve the tannic structure, especially in premium
price wines where time cost is justified by retail price.

Maturation is usually in large (500L) & old oak following the global trend for subtler oak influence & purer
fruit; to this end, many only age in inert vessels (steel, concrete, amphora).