1) To build a first craft, playful, easy- to- buid, one must follow some rules,,

like for cooking. First , go shopping to collect the right stuff.

2) For that recipe, you need : ( pic 0 )

- electric motor speed type 480 with integrated speed variator in 8,4 V
- twin blades prop 14*14 with its conic prop nose.
- electric wiring + battery plug
- 2ways receiver
- small servo Graupner C 261 type
- battery pack 8,2 V 3000
- polypropylen board 1200 X 800 mm in 3 mm thickness ( plastic
cardboard )
- 3 lengthes of piano chord 12/10 or 10/10
- 30 bolts 19 X 3,2 mm metal type.
- Heavy duty adhesive type, and a white roll if possible, ( fixing- all type
)
-
- Small lenghtes of cable easing, or lollypop sticks ( need 4 )
- Plastic collar 4mm X 160 mm
- Strong sewing thread ( for sails )
- Small wire mesh 15 X 18 mm
- Plastic garbage bag ( 30 liters )
- Bubble wrap bag

Specific tools are : good cutter, soldering iron will be used to cut plastic
board.

When everything is ready, About 6 hours are enough to assemble and fly the
machine.

THIS MODEL IS FREE FROM ANY RIGHTS, BUT , PLEASE, IF YOU

MAKE IT , LET ME KNOW !

In case you need help : benoit.raynal@wanadoo.fr

I’ ll try to answer within 48 hours, a full set of pics from each building stages is
available ( 40 Mo )

3) Cut a board : 500 X 250 mm , Inside partitionning ( channels or tubes ) of

the plastic cardboard must be alined with longer length..
 Draw 2 250 mm long lines at 75 mm from edges. They are separated by
100 mm ( pic 1 )
Cut 2 parts of 350 X 25 mm ( height ) ( pic 2 ) Be careful to well
smoothen the rims.

Prepare 6 holes in the board, 3 by line, one middle , 2 at 2,5 cm from each
end. ( pic 3 )
Place both bulkheads below and screw.
End of hull assembly.

4) Now, let’ s start with air partitioner who is also used as engine stand.
In the rear middle part of the hull, draw a 92 X 55 rectangle at 20 mm
from bottom edge ( pic 4 ) Cut the 55 mm at each side and the 92 mm at
75 mm from rear edge. ( pic 5 )
With a non cutting device, prepare deeply a 92 mm line at 20 mm from
edge on upper side of hull ( opposite to bulkheads ) ( pic 7 ) I’ ve used a
spatula, and to make it easier, I’ ve removed the bulkheads ( pic 6 ). Fold
upward that flap, marking the angle like in pic 8 and following for
assembly.
Prepare a 230 X 70 mm rectangle, when cardboard ribs are parallel to
long side, it’ s harder to fold but stiffer. It’ s higher part of air splitter flap
and motor stand.( pic 13 ).
At 55 mm from edge, draw a line and mark it for folding, like the splitter
flap ( pic 14 ).
Inside folding angle, a 51 mm height is left, 55 mm outside ( pic 15 ).
On upper side of motor stand, draw motor axis and motor template.( 15
mm each side of axis )At the back of motor, 30 mm forward motor stand,
make two 5mm holes both sides of motor template. Here will be tied the
plastic collar.
With a white adhesive band ( not absolutely necessary )( pic 16 ) extend
split flap forward sticking an adhesive tape, letting it wider like in pic
17.It will come in position under motor stand in front of plastic collar
holes. Reverse the whole stuff. Prepare 4 bolts in the bulkhead just beside
the splitting flap. As motor stand is longer than flap, rear bolts are placed
at 15 mm from rear edge( pic 18 ). Place stand on the upper face and
tighten it with the 4 bolts ( pic 19 ).
Then stick adhesive material band on the lower side of motor stand :
airtightness is done ( pic 21 )! With the 2 side bolts, lock the flap in a 45 °
position. Rigidity is done ( pic 20 ) !
Draw 2 lines at 220 mm from rear edge for first and 225 mm for the
second. Between those 2 lines is center of gravity of your craft ( pic 22 ).
 5 ) Preparing motor.
A Graupner 480, 8, 4 V, N° 6320 with rear speed variator.Prepare 2 X
300 mm length of 12/10 piano chord ( overlength will be cut at the end ).
Make 3 turns around an axle the same diameter than bolts with piano
chord. That way, make a « V « at 45° with one 100mm leg and other the
rest ( pic 23).Place both « V »s on the motor putting 100mm legs in
vertical position, other legs outward.
Here starts fine job. Motor axle must be at 75 mm over hull. Motor is 29
mm diameter, motor stand is 55 mm high, cardboard thickness is 3,3 mm.
You must fold the four legs to settle motor at right place. To do simple, I
‘ ve put motor upside down, with a piece of plastic cardboard, I’ ve made
a block, and folded legs , letting it slide freely between motor and both
piano chords in the middle, and I’ ve put 2 thicknesses for side legs
folding them to be separated by 98 mm and letting block slide easily ( pic
24 ).
Motor is now mounted like a sled with 2 short legs in the middle and 2
long legs outside.Slowly, stick in both outside legs throw motor stand just
under fold line, in vertical part. Then central legs are pushed in force
throw bulkheads.
When all legs bump, ouside ones exceed a lot but central ones don’ t ( pic
25). Cut piano chord at 25 mm behind motor stand and bend inward
exceeding length as to lock legs in position ( pic 26- 27 ).
Adjust plastic collar thow holes and tighten it to make motor bottom
touch plastic ( pic 27 ).
We assemble propeller and cone, check blades does’ nt scratch anything
around.. Allow 5- 6 mm room between lower blade and hull. This
clearance is necessary due to hull flexibility. During run , prop axle tends
to lower due to thrust.

6) Now, motor is settled, let’ s mount radio, batteries and flaps.. First, place
motor wiring to front, I’ ve choosed to let them go throw cardboard tubes.
We can also let them go throw holes in splitting flap.
Your choice will influence skirt attachment.. Go throw cardboard tubes
needs skirt attachment via lower hull. Go throw split flap allows an easier
way to tie skirt via upper hull.I’ ve chosen first one. To introduce wires in
cardboard tubes needs 2 stages :
First stage, force wire from rear to air partitioner room. For that, push
wire through cardboard thickness as close as possible from side to avoid
blade proximity ( pic 28 ).
Due to wire diameter, with a 5 mm drill, ease space in cardboard tubes.
 Once in partition room, sold an extension on each wire, long enough , and
push again throw cardboard. I did’ nt manage to reech the end , but throw
propeller, wires go inside hull ( pic 29 ).
Note : craft balancing is tuned with batteries, that means a 300 mm
extension each , naturally with a plug at the end ( pic 30 )

7) Receiver is placed under motor behind split flap.Wrap it in bubble paper

and stick it with adhesive tape carefuly after conecting it to servo. At that
stage , I’ ve checked the motor, be very careful with non protected blades
( pics 31- 32 ).
Servo stand is made of plastic cardboard band ( about 15 width and 16
mm high with vertical tubes ( pics 33- 34 ).
In central channel, from the up, a bolt will tighten servo by front hole,
rotating lever is at back. Let one empty channel, then in the following,
from below and from reciever room, on both side , tighten that stand with
2 bolts. Make a stitch in piano chord same width than servo wich 2 legs
have servo length, Push it throw plastic cardboard as shown in pic 35. An
adhesive tape will block the whole lot pic 36 ).

8) In piano chord, make direction controls axles. They are 110 mm long.
Push them into last tube of the vertical motor stand, lower them till hull
contact ( pic 37 ). Cut a small plastic board ( 97 X 57 mm ) channels
parallels to longer length. That will be radio compartment door ( pic 38 ).
One bolt from below, 2 bolts on top by the corners will finish the job. I’
ve inserted antenna all hull long in a cardboard channel ( pic 39 ).
Direction controls are made by 2 100 X 70 mm boards, channels must be
parallel to smaller length. ( pics 40- 41 ). At 3 cm from one edge, push in
a cable easing, scale model type , 70 mm long, let it exceed below by 3
mm, for instance, it’ s the 9 th channel from front. Piano chord axle will
easily enter them without too much play. With another cable easing and
adhesive tape, make round front part of the flap ( pics 42- 43- 44 ).
Now push in a last piece of cable easing in last upper hole of flap. They
will be used to receive flaps coupling wire.
Put control flaps on their axles, and check rotation ( pics 45- 46 ). Note
height of servo lever. For a Graupner servo with short lever, make two 1
mm holes in each flap in 3 rd and 4 th space after axle. Throw these holes
go controls threads ( pic 47 ). It’ s heavy duty one , like sail thread.. Tie it
on the servo, each bit goes throw its hole on outer side of flap. Keep them
parallel to craft axis, and make a knot ( pic 48 ).
Important point, thread tension must be tight, if not, add an elastic tensor
or try again with another thread.
 Make a king size stitch to connect both control flaps for synchronization.
Width is approx. 97- 98 mm. I made it directly with 50 mm legs ( pics 49-
50- 51 ).

9) One can check again full functions, BEWARE BLADES !

Make a protecting wire mesh. Compulsory for craft used in a open places
with people around. I had one ( may be for chicken ? ) withe 12 to 15 mm
link. Prepare a square shape of 155 mm, cut upper angles. Upper side is
80 mm, then slanting ( length 85 mm ), then vertically for 75 mm above
hull ( pic 52 ). Fold upper grid as to protect front and rear part. Grid must
be cut behind allowing split flap and motor positioning (pic 53 ).
I’ ve tied it behind with piano chord throw split flap and grid., in front I’
ve used two bolts throw 15 X 15 mm plastic board blocks. Pay attention
to electric wiring going under ( pics 54- 55- 56- 57 ).
Cut a 126 X 50 mm band with channels parallels to small side. Draw at
center a 87 mm part, then both sides outward : a 90 mm and a 77 mm
parts, an exceeding small part on each side must be left ( pics 58- 59- 60 ).
Heavily mark folding lines by crushing cardboard channels. That band
must be placed around propeller protection grid to close prop duct. Screw
it with 2 bolts throw hull and previously left bands ( pics 61- 62- 63 ).

10 ) Dynamic stage of craft is now ended. Let’ s place battery and

bodywork now.
Place battery in front as to settle center of gravity between 220 and 225
mm from rear edge. Notice I’ ve positionned battery with frontside plug
( pic 64 ).
Cut cardboard band : 100 mm long and 20 mm high, vertical channels
( pic 83 ). Fold it in U shape coming around rear side of batteries. I have a
central part of 48 mm and two 25 mm side parts. Prepare 6 equal blocks,
same height and 5 channels width. They will be used for fine battery
positioning. For mounting, place battery as schedule, put 3 blocks behind,
then place the cardboard U, draw its position on hull. Tighten it with 3
bolts from below, one central and one in each leg. Even in case of bump ,
battery will not slip. For front side, prepare 2 cardboard bands, 50 mm
long , vertical channels, folded in L shape. Place them each side of wires,
tighten these 2 front blocks with 2 bolts each, 1 bolt / leg.( pic 65- 66- 67 )
For the body, prepare a 300 X 215 mm board ( pic 68 ).
Place channels in long. Mark the 7 th ( a ) from edge, then at 47 mm from
there, mark the channel ( b ) ( pic 69 ). Do the same from other side. Mark
channel ( a ) on one side for folding and channel ( b ) on other side. Fold
as to obtain a gutter. For front side, between 2 ( b ) channels, draw a line
at 40 mm from front edge. Then , join front line with a diagonal line till
( a ) channel. For aesthetical pleasing, draw another line between ( a )
channel and outside edge. Cut along line ( pic 71 ).
Now prepare a 75 X 45 mm board with channels parallels to small side
( rear cabin board ) ( pic 70 ), and a 75/76 X 60 mm channels // small
side ( front cabin board ) ( pic 76 ).
With white adhesive tape, stick wiring left between split flap front and
battery bottom ( pic 72 ). To make it easier, I ‘ ve joined them in the
middle. Cut in the 75 X 45 board two gashes to pass wires, then place
board verticaly by two bolts in middle ( channels ( b ) of 300 X 215 board
).At full bottom, of course. Again with white tape, stick front board by
upper edge and left side, right side must be free to allow body opening
( pics 76- 77 ).
Draw on body lower boards bolts.position : First at 100 mm from front
edge, and second at 250 mm from front edge and in the middle of space
between channel ( a ) and edge. Left hand side, prepare bolts holes, on
right, draw hole place, and cut a 20 mm square, bolt centered (pic 75 ).
In piano chord, prepare two « L « stitches. Horizontal leg is 15 mm,
vertcal one is 30 mm, and in upper end, a small 2 mm horizontal leg ( pic
73 ). They come inside body to keep 90 ° angle. Lower horizontal leg is
pushed on thickness of horizontal part of body right edge, vertical leg lean
on vertical body side and small leg is pushed into body to avoid stitch
rotation. First is at 80 mm from front, and second at 80 mm from rear
body ( pic 74 ).
Unscrew the two front left bolts off lower hull walls. Place body and
tighten it with previous bolts ( pic 82 ). On right, unscrew the two bolts
and replace them, adding the square boards, placing channels along ( pic
75 ).
Prepare two stitches as lock device. Rear one is a simple 70 mm long « U
« , front one has a straight 120 mm long leg, and a short 50 mm leg ( pic
87- 88 ).
They go throw cardboard channels, assembling body and square boards
tightened by hull underwalls bolts. Notice : pay attention to width
between legs, slightly divergentes to block in it’ s housing, and for easier
use, I’ ve folded it upward in the middle to make a handle ( pics 84- 85-
86 ).

11 ) Last stage, the hardest for one who is not used to, not so difficult
with a little care : that means : skirt.
Take heavy cardboard or corrugated cardboard, 185 mm high , 130 mm
minimum width. On highness, draw a mark each centimeter, then draw
following widths beginning by upper part.

Left = height in mm Right = width in mm

0 90
10 99
20 108
30 116
40 121
50 121
60 118
70 113
80 106
90 97
100 87
110 77
120 67
130 58
140 49
150 40
160 33
170 26
180 18
185 15

After that like in kid game , join dots smoothing angles, and cut along
line, this will be template to make corners ( pic 91 ).
Take the 30 liters plastic garbage bag, not too thick., cut 185 mm high
bands.
Prepare a skirt soldering desk : a wooden board , at least 200 X 600 mm,
pistol type soldering iron with high temp and power,fitted with a special
cutting peen ( pic 92 ).
Place two bands one over other. That will be outside skirt is in the middle.
Check for parallelism, and block with weights or pliers . Apply template
at one end, block it with pliers. Pressing fermly on template, with hot iron,
cut exceeding plastic bag following cardboard edge line. Very hot iron
both cut plastic and seal the two sheets right on edge line. Carefully
remove exceeding part, take it out from cardboard template, and check
seal., in case of defect, seal it again , even half mm shorter ( pic 93 ).
Do the same with two other plastic bag bands.
Measure 500 + 40 mm for cutting one side and 250 + 40 mm for cutting
other side, and make two other corners like previously , avoiding sealing
 wrong parts.
500 mm pieces go with 250 mm ones and curves should be in the same
direction.
Turn over the full lot inside out. That way, seals will last longer ( pic 94 ).
Now, we shall adjust skirt to hull, I use brown wrap adhesive tape ( pic 95
).
We shall work on lower side of hull, it’ s harder, but we obtain nicer look,
one can stick skirt by upper side but more care is needed with adhesive
tape.
First, start by corners.Place skirt on position, with shorts bands ( 20 mm )
of adhesive tape, stick one rear corner, then opposite front one ( pics 96-
97 ).
Special care is requested to join hull and skirt edge to edge., then stick
side middle, middle of side middle and so on, till full length is covered by
adhesive. Go to other side, then front and rear at the end.
When full perimeter is done, push fermly on tape to check adherence.

11 ) Cut some pieces of bubblewrap, inser them inside

skirt, you can use expanded plystyrene, in that
case, it could affect craft balance. Use glue or
double face adhesive tape to avoid floatation move
into skirt ( pic 98 ).
Finish by sticking inside skirt perimeter. Again with wrap adhesive tape, stick
edge to edge both skirt lengths on lower hull ( pic 99 ). One detail left, to avoid
skirt bailing in, prepare a 100 mm long adhesive tape. In the middle, glue side,
stick a 50 mm square, we have now a tape with 2 X 25 mm adhesive ends
seperated by a 50 mm non adhesive. Stick one end on lower hull, the other end
on lower part of skirt, to avoid this one gaping. ( pic 100 ).
For better work, make two 3 mm holes in back skirt, at groud / skirt touch point.
Made with a punch, they will serve to empty water from skirt. ( pic 101 ).
Turnover craft again, place battery pack and its blocks behind, connect radio
plug. Switch on first transmitter, then receiver pack……..LET’ S GO !
Take a water run check pic, and send it to me…….
Balance must be slightly rear, but not too much, adjust by positioning battery
pack by changing blocks on request. In case balance is out of range, you may
use additive weights..

Model by Benoît Raynal ( benoit.raynal@wanadoo.fr )

Translation ( approx ) Michel Martin ( speedymartin@libertysurf.fr )