FABRIC MANUFACTURING

(KNITTING)
 Knitting
• Knitting is a process of manufacturing a
fabric by inter looping of yarns.
• Knitting is the second most important
method of fabric formation.
• It can be defined as a needle technique
of fabric formation, in which, with the
help of knitting needles , loops are
formed to make a fabric or garment.
• Fabric can be formed by hand or
machine knitting , but the basic
principle remains exactly the same i.e.
pulling a new loop through the old
loop.
• Knitted Fabric are popular for their
shape fitting property, soft handle,
bulkier nature and high extension at low
tension.
 Development of Knitting
• The word knitting is derived from the Sanskrit word Nahyati. According to the textile history, it
is said that finger knitting started since 1000 BC. In finger knitting, the fabric was produced on
the hand using the fingers. The looping was done on the fingers. The fabric was produced by
removing a new loop through an old loop.
• Since the fabric produced on the hand was smaller in width the peg knitting was introduced.
The finger knitting had only 4 loops in width but in peg knitting more numbers of loops was
possible. According to the width of the fabric the number of pegs was decided.
• Hand knitting with 2 pins was practiced since 256 AD. The knitted fabrics were prepared with
the help of 2 pins. In about 5th century AD an oldest knitted article (sock) was seen.
• Reverent William Lee, in 1589 a resident of England invented the first knitting machine with
bearded needle. The gauge of the machine was 8npi and afterwards it was made upto 20npi.
The machine had a potential of knitting 10 times more than hand knitting with two pins.
Further many more warp and weft machines were developed but the principle remained the
same.
• In the 18th century , rib knitting machine, warp knitting machines and circular knitting frame
was invented
• In the 19th century, latch needle, compound needle, fashioning mechanism, seamless heal and
toe i.e. sock, flat knitting machine, interlock knitting were invented all over the world.
• In the 20th century, double cylinder circular machine, electronic needle selection, relanit
principle, Pizo electronic jacquard etc were invented
 Types of Knits
Knitted
fabrics

Weft Warp
Knitting knitting

Tricot Raschel

Single
Purl Rib Interlock
jersey
 Classification of Knitting
Knitting is primarily classified as weft knitting
and warp knitting. This classification is based
on the direction of movement of yarn with
respect to the direction of fabric formation
 Classification of Knitting
Weft Knitting Warp Knitting
 Warp Knitting
In case the yarns run in length direction, i.e. the
direction of fabric formation during knitting, the
process is called warp knitting.
The yarns inside the knitted fabrics are just like the
warp yarns in woven fabrics Such knitted fabrics are
called warp knitted fabrics, and the machine which
produces such fabric is known as warp knitting
machine.
 Warp Kitting
• Tricot
• Raschel
 Weft Knitting
If the yarns run in the width or crosswise
direction with reference to the direction of
fabric formation during knitting, then the
process of knitting is called weft knitting.
 Needle loop
• basic unit of knitted structure.
• consists of a head (H) and two
side limbs or legs (L).
• At the base of each leg is a foot
(F), which meshes through the
head of the loop formed at the
previous knitting cycle
• The yarn passes from the foot
of one loop into the foot and
leg of the next loop formed by
it
 Applications of Knitted Fabrics
• Sportswear(conformity, flexibility)
• Casual wear (comfort)
• Dress wear
• Technical textiles application
 Advantages of Knitting
• Fabric can be produced from minimum number of
yarns, even only one yarn
• Loop size can be varied to a wide extent and that too
very easily.
• The extensibility and stability of the knitted fabric
can be engineered
• Wastage of yarn during conversion of yarn into fabric
by knitting is negligible.
 Advantages of Knitting
• The desired porosity or compactness of the
fabric can be achieved easily.
• The extensibility and stability of the knitted
fabric can be engineered.
 Comparison of woven and
Knitted fabric
Knitting is comparatively economical(no
need of preparation of yarn) and faster
process to convert yarn into fabric or even
into direct apparels ,
 Woven vs. knitted
Woven Knitted
• Produce by interlacing of • Produce by interloping of
yarn yarn
• Set of yarn is required for • Minimum one yarn is
warp and weft required
• Good elasticity and stretch
• Elasticity and stretch ability ability
is poor
• Dimensionally not stable
• Dimensionality stable • Less durable
• More durable • Wicking and moisture
• Less moisture absorption property is better
 Woven vs knitted
• Good drape property • Poor drape property
• Less crease resistant • Good crease resistant and
property no need of ironing
• Air permeability property is • Excellent air permeability
poor • Fabric is comparatively
• Tensile and Tear strength strong and Durable
can be checked • Bursting strength check
rather than tensile strength
 Common knitting terms
Technical Face:
The side of the
knitted fabric having all
of face of Knit loop is
called Technical face of
the fabric.

Technical Back:
The side of knitted
fabric consist of back
loops is called technical
back of the fabric.
 Common knitting terms
Fabric Weight :
Followings units are provided for fabric
weight.
Grams per meter Square (g/m2)
GSM = weight in (g) / Area ( length cm *
width cm)*10000
Ounces per Square Yard (Oz/Yd2)
Ounces to GSM = Ozs / Yd2 *33.906
 Common Knitting terms
• Stitch Length :- the stitch length is one of the
most important factor controlling the properties
of knitted fabrics. The stitch length , measured in
millimeter is the length of the yarn in the knitted
loop. Generally longer the stitch length, the more
open and lighter the fabric.
• Stitch density :- Stitch density is a term frequently
used in knitting and represents the total number
of needles loop in a given area. Stitch density is
the product of Courses and Wales per unit length
and is measured in units of loops per square
centimeter.
 Common Knitting terms
• Wales :- A wale is a vertical column of
loops produced by the same needle
knitting at successive knitting cycles.
The number of Wales determine the
width of the fabric and they are
measured in units of Wales per
centimeter.
• Courses :- Courses are rows of loops
across the width of the fabric
produced by adjacent needles during
the same knitting cycle and are
measured in units of courses per
centimeter. The courses determine
the length of the fabrics