FITTING

FUNDAMENTALS
for Sewers
Created exclusively for Craftsy by:
Linda Reynolds, Maris Olsen,
Beth Galvin & Pauline Alice
 This is just the beginning!
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
01 4 Key Fitting Opportunities
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05 Hemming 101

10 Mastering the Moulage Technique

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14 Plus-Size Fitting Tips
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18 Petite Fitting Tips
 4 Key Fitting Opportunities
Before the First Pattern Piece Is Cut
By Linda Reynolds
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When it comes to garment construction,
getting the fit just right is by far the most
challenging part to sewing clothing.
Fitting patterns, by and large, is a process
that begins before the first pattern piece
is cut and continues throughout the
entire assembly and construction process.
It is not a singular step but rather a series
of adjustments that take place at various
stages throughout the process of sewing
any garment.

Learning to properly fit and adjust

patterns takes a great deal of time and
practice to master, but once done, is a
skill that will pay huge dividends in
beautifully made clothing that look good
and will last a lifetime.

The steps you take well before the first

pattern piece is cut are among the most
critical to getting the right fit. Below we
cover four key fitting opportunities that
every garment sewer must perform to
ensure the right size is cut and the most
important pattern adjustments are made
before layout and cutting begins.
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1. Select the Right Pattern Size
Its important to remember that pattern sizes are not the same as the sizes represented in brick-and-mortar
stores. Pattern sizes are typically anywhere from 1-3 sizes larger. Yes, larger. Get over it! It is what it is and
size is but a number. Cutting out patterns that are too small typically can’t be fixed, so be sure to pick the
right pattern size from the start — it’s imperative. Plus, you’ll feel like a million bucks in a garment you sew
yourself that fits like a dream.

Pattern sizes are based on three basic body measurements: the fullest part of the bustline, the natural
waistline and the fullest part of the hips and buttocks. These are all circumference measurements that are
done with a good measuring tape. The measurements should be perfectly horizontal to the floor. Make sure
the tape fits snuggly, not tightly, around the body, and, by all means, be honest with yourself.

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2. Use the FGM to fine-tune pattern size selection or to help in-between
size decisions.
The finished garment measurement (FGM) is the circumference measurement of the garment once
completed at the same three basic body points. They are the sum of the body measurement plus both
wearable ease and design ease.

The FGM is a great tool to use to help zero into the right pattern size especially in those cases when your
body measurements are in between two sizes. By placing a measuring tape around each body point using
the FGMs for both the smaller size, and then the larger size, you can get a feel of how the finished garment
will fit around your body. Then pick the size where the fit feels right for you.
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HOW TO USE FMG: AN EXAMPLE SKIRT
To illustrate how this works, let’s pretend your hip measurement is 37”. That falls in between a size 12 and 14
for the example pattern. To determine which of the two sizes would work best, begin by finding the FGM
for the smaller of the two sizes. In this case, that’s 39 ½", or 3 ½" of ease added to the body measurement.
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Now, wrap a measuring tape around your hips to that FGM (39 ½" for size 12). See how that measurement
feels and looks. Is it too snug, too big or just right? Now, do the same with the larger FGM (41 ½" for the
size 14). Whichever feels or looks best is the pattern size you would select.

FGMs are also very helpful in determining how much to add, or subtract, when adjusting patterns to your
measurements. Let’s use this same skirt example to illustrate this point. The amount of ease factored into
the design of this pattern is 3 ½" at the hipline. So it should equal a FGM of 40 ½" for a body measurement
of 37" plus the ease. This means 1” needs to be added to the circumference at the hipline for the size 12
skirt. Based on the design and number of seams in the skirt, simply divide or distribute that 1" among each
seam to achieve the adjusted FGM.
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By understanding how to use the finished garment measurements, you can limit the amount of adjustments
you have to make later and create a better fitting garment.

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 3. Measure With Tissue Pattern Fitting
By pinning the base (tissue) pattern pieces together and
placing them on the body critical fitting issues can be
identified. This is an important step to sewing the right
fit. For the best fit, the tissue fitting should be done over
the undergarments you intend to wear with the
garment you are making. Since tissue fitting is done on
only half the body, make sure to secure (or pin) the
front and back pattern pieces to your center front
and back.
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KEY FITTING ISSUES TO CHECK WHEN TISSUE
FITTING INCLUDE:
• Make sure the shoulder and side seams are
properly positioned.
• The bust darts are sufficient and properly directed
to your bust apex.
• The bodice, sleeve and bottom patterns are long
enough as this can’t be adjusted once the patterns
are cut.
• Check the armhole and neckline for gaps as these
need to be addressed before patterns are cut.
• Make sure crotch seams sufficiently fit over the
buttock and follow the curves of your body
appropriately. Now is the time to make all of the
adjustments needed for a good fit on pants.

4. Prepare A Muslin
To prepare a muslin means to create a prototype of the base garment using inexpensive fabric. This process
helps isolate all fitting issues and will provide the most comprehensive fitting adjustments needed for a
good fit. Not all projects require making a muslin, but for those with intricate styling details or that require
exact fitting, a muslin is best.

It is also important to note that even with a muslin, more fine-tuning of the fit will be required throughout
the construction process as fashion fabrics will perform differently than muslin fabrics.
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HOW TO FIT A MUSLIN:
Step 1: Try the muslin on, right side out. If you have a dress form filled out to your measurements, you’ll
probably find it easier to fit your muslin on that. For some patterns (like a dress with a back zip), having a fit
helper might make the process easier. If no one’s available to pin you into the garment, it’s in your best
interest to add any closures to get the best idea of how the garment actually fits. Be sure to baste them in
and you’ll be able to easily rip them out and reuse for your final garment.

If you’re satisfied with the garment fit, congratulations! You can skip to Step 3. More than likely, though,
you’ll need to make some adjustments.

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Step 2: Try the muslin on, wrong side out. This is when you’ll pin and mark any adjustments for the final
garment (or the next muslin, if you’re having major fit issues).

Perhaps the side seams need to be taken in, you need to lengthen the bodice so that the waist is in the
correct spot, or the bust darts need to be let out or taken in. Craftsy has many online classes that address
specific fit issues.
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Step 3: Once you’re satisfied with the fit, take the muslin off and deconstruct it. At this point, you can either
transfer any changes directly to your pattern (if they are small changes) or make new pattern pieces based
on the muslin (if the changes are more complex).

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 Hemming 101
By Linda Reynolds

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Whether finishing a homemade garment or altering a store-bought one, knowing the proper way to hem is
an important life skill for anyone to have. It will save you tons of money on alterations and, the good news;
it’s pretty easy to do. The hardest part will be figuring out where you want the hem to be in the first place.

Where Should the New Hemline Be?

Let’s begin by first figuring out where that hem should be. If you are trying to figure that out on yourself you
can simply replicate the hem length of a similar garment you have in your closet. Measure the inseam of a
pair of pants or the waist to hem measurement on a skirt and then use those measurements as your guide
for the new garment.

Then there is the trial and error approach. Try on the garment and pin up the hem to where you think you
want it be. I know, that’s not easy to do on yourself, but with one or two attempts you should be able to
settle on a hemline you like.

The best method is to try on the garment and have someone else turn up the hem. Train your child, friend,
or significant other to help you and you are set for life when it comes to hemming.

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Ready the Garment for Hemming
Once the location of the new hem is determined, pin the excess fabric up to the underside around the
entire circumference of the garment. Try on the garment once again. Look to make sure the hemline is
where you want it to be, and make sure the pinned up hem is even all around. The hem should be equal
distance from the floor at all points. The only exception here is women’s dress pants. Some women
prefer the back side to be a bit longer to accommodate wearing high heels. If that is the case, make the
desired adjustment.
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Trim and Ready the Hem
With the pins still in place, iron the hemline so when the pins are removed the ironed crease is visible. If
your fabric doesn’t hold a crease, hand baste the hem in place about ½” from the folded hemline edge.
Remove all pins.

A hem can be any width you want it to be, but for guidance, pant hems should be around 1 ¼” – 1 ½” and
dress or skirt hems around 1 ½” – 2”. Whichever hem width you choose, trim away any excess fabric. Do
this by measuring and then marking the hem width with a fabric pen or chalk. Use that mark as your guide
to cut away the excess.

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Finish the Raw Edges
All garments should look as clean and finished on the underside as it does on the public or right side, so
some careful finishing of the hem’s raw edge is necessary. There are essentially three ways to finish a plain
hem. The type of garment fabric will determine the appropriate approach. The objective is to secure a hem
that is invisible from the public side of the garment. Here are your options:

1. For standard types of fabric, like

cotton, serging the edge is the easiest
approach and will produce a clean finish.
The serged stitching will prevent the raw
edges from fraying and provides a medium
for the final hand stitching.

2. For lightweight to medium-weight fabrics,

a turned edge looks clean and finished. Of
utmost importance, the added bulk of the
double layer of fabric should not bleed
through to the public side of the garment
when pressed. To be sure that is the case,
test the turned edge on a piece of scrap
fabric first. To do a turned edge, simply fold
under the top raw edge of the hem by 1/4”
and press it in place. Then stitch the folded
edge down 1/16” to 1/8” from the fold.

3. For heavier fabrics or ones that either fray excessively or will be too bulky to handle a tuned edge, it is
best to finish the edge with some hem tape. This keeps the fraying in check, conceals an otherwise
unattractive edge and most importantly, prevents a bulky hem edge from bleeding through to the public
side of the garment. Hems edged with hem tape produce the most professionally looking hems, especially
for garments that are unlined.

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Slip Stitch for Hemming
Hand stitching the hem in place is by far the best approach to a well executed hem. If done properly, it is
hardly visible and produces a secure hem. The hand stitch I use almost exclusively for hemming is the slip
stitch. I like it best because when done properly only a small pick stitch is visible on underside of the
garment and nearly invisible on the public side.

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HERE IS HOW TO SLIP STITCH A HEM:
Step 1: Position the garment so the hem is turned
up (north) and facing you. You are going to sew
from right to left. Thread a needle with roughly a
20” length of thread. To strengthen and prevent it
from knotting up, run it through some beeswax and
then iron it. Now knot one end of a single thread.
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Step 2: Insert the needle into the hem’s top edge
starting from the underside up through the top of
the hem edge (this becomes 6 o’clock). Notice the
needle placement is roughly 1/8" or less from the
hem edge.
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Step 3: Now take a tiny (no more than a thread)
stitch directly above (at 12 o’clock) into the garment
base. The resulting stitch should be quite small and
perfectly vertical.
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Step 4: Angle the needle to enter the hem edge
approximately 3/8" to 1/2" from the first stitch. (The
space between each stitch will depend on the
fabric). Bring the needle up at the 6 o’clock position
and repeat the process described in Steps 2 and 3.
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Step 5: Continue this process throughout the hem
making sure only a thread or two is captured of the
garment fabric. Also make sure the spacing
between each stitch is consistent and even. On the
right side of the garment, only small, evenly spaced
pick stitches should be visible. If applying on lofty or
dense fabrics, the stitches will most likely not be
visible at all.

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 Mastering the Moulage Technique
By Maris Olsen

The moulage, or “mold” fitting system was developed and used in couture houses to reduce client fitting
times. Home sewers can also learn to create a moulage, which in turn can be used to draft personal slopers
for a blouse, dress, jacket or an overcoat.

The main difference between a moulage and a sloper is that the moulage has zero wearing ease
added — it is a reflection of an individual’s actual body measurements. Slopers include minimal wearing
ease and are used as the basis for creating new patterns with additional unique design lines.

Learn the steps to the moulage technique and be on your way to making beautiful garments that fit like
a glove

Photo via Craftsy member Artesia Rose

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Tools and Supplies You’ll Need:
• Large sheets of paper (30" wide is ideal) • Several yards of elastic (1/2" or so wide)
• Graphite pencils + colored pencils • Chain necklace
• Measuring tape • Tracing paper
• Straight edge ruler • Tracing wheel (dual tracing wheel preferable)
• Square • Muslin fabric
• Tape • 30" separating zipper

Suzy Furrer demonstrating a moulage measurement process in her her class Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper

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Give the Moulage Technique a Try!
Step 1: Measurements
It is really necessary to have a “fitting” buddy to
help you with this step; preferably someone you
are comfortable with standing around
“lightly dressed.”
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Measurements should be taking in close-fitting but
not constricting clothing. Lightweight yoga pants
or tights can work for the lower body, a snug
T-shirt for the upper body — also, a well-fitting
bra is a must.
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One piece of elastic is tied around the waist, and a
second piece is tied around the fullest area of the
hips. Place the necklace so that the chain sits at the
base of the front neck, about 3/4" below the
hollow.

The person taking the measurements should pull

the tape snugly around the body, keeping the
forefinger under the tape and the thumb on top to
hold the ends together. This helps increase
accuracy and allows just a smidgen of ease in the
final muslin. The measurements should be
recorded on a moulage measurement chart to the
nearest half or full inch (or half or full centimeter)

Custom moulage drafted and constructed by Craftsy
member LeahBoyan
Step 2: Calculations
Once all the moulage measurements have been
taken, it is time for a little math. Nothing too
complicated is needed, just simple algebra. The
calculations are recorded on a worksheet and this
worksheet is then used as the basis for drafting the
actual moulage.

Step 3: Draft the Moulage

You will draft a moulage back and a moulage front using your body measurements and the calculation
results from the moulage worksheet. To begin, you will use the straight edge, square and a pencil to draw
reference lines on the large pieces of paper, and then start adding your personal information to create the
paper pattern for your moulage.

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 Personal sloper drafted from a moulage by Craftsy Drafting a bodice sloper
member ConnieCreates 

Step 4: Construct a Muslin

Once your moulage draft is finished, you will then use this paper pattern to trace cutting and stitching lines
for your moulage muslin. Like with any garment, you will need to staystitch curves, follow the correct
construction order and insert a zipper in the back, allowing the moulage to be easily put on and taken off.

Step 5: Fit the Muslin

Try on the completed moulage, and check for the correct fit. Remember that this garment should have
basically zero ease, no gaps and no wrinkles across your body. It should “fit like a glove.” Make any
necessary adjustments to the muslin garment,and then transfer those same adjustments to the
paper pattern.

Step 6: Draft a Bodice Sloper

Now that you have all the precise measurements for your moulage, you will create a sloper with minimal
wearing ease added. It is this sloper that you will now use as your foundation piece to create unlimited
designs with a personalized fit.
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 Plus-Size Fitting Tips
It’s All the About Vertical Dimension
By Beth Galvin
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When fitting a sewing pattern we are accustomed to checking the standard measurements, such as bust,
waist and hip. What do these have in common? They are all measurements of circumference. But there is
another dimension that is critical to getting a good fit, and that is the vertical dimension. These vertical
measurements are not marked on the pattern but you can measure and adjust your patterns in both
dimensions to get a good fit and be more comfortable in the clothes you make.

How to Use Vertical Adjustment for a Pristine Plus-Sized Fit

The two dress forms pictured above illustrate the potential need for vertical adjustment on sewing patterns.
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The light pink form on the left shows how bust depth, which is the distance from the top of the shoulder to
the bust apex, is considerably longer with a plus-size figure, or full busted figure. The horizontal line marks
the bust apex on both dress forms, and that is the point on your pattern where you want the maximum
fullness to accommodate the curves there.
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Imagine a pattern with bust darts which would finish near that apex, closer for the less full bust and further
away for the more full bust. So, based on the measuring tape, even though they may be the same height,
the full busted form needs more length in the front to reach the waist.
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Often wrap style dresses or tops don’t include a side dart, so here is a way to adjust the pattern front and
create the extra length that is needed.

Step 1: Evaluate the Pattern

Here is the front bodice pattern piece, which is a
mock wrap front with shoulder darts. The bust apex
is indicated on the pattern as the small circle with
the +. The center front is marked and that should
be transferred to your pattern, so that your wrap
overlaps properly. There is no side bust dart but that
will be added to create some shaping and allow for
the longer front measurement from shoulder
to waist.

Step 2: Make a Muslin

The test version of our pattern shows that the
pattern circumference is good, it appears to fit
going around the body, but the issue with bodice
length becomes apparent. The yellow dots
represent the bust apex on the pattern and they are
about 2 inches higher than the actual apex of the
form, which is shown by the upper ribbon.

Also the bodice is pulling upward under the bust, so

the garment waist will not be in the right place.
• Measure the distance between the pattern mark
of the apex and the actual apex, this will be the
distance that the pattern will be lengthen over
the bust.
• Now, measure the distance between the bottom
of the bodice and the waist.
• If that is more than the difference you will be
adding at the bust, you may want to add a little
more at the bottom edge as well, or deepen your
seam allowance to permit some adjustment when
you sew the top and bottom together.

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Step 3: Split the Pattern Piece
Draw a horizontal line across the pattern, through the apex or just under as shown. Be sure that line is
perpendicular to the grainline. Add a few vertical lines across this horizontal line, which are used to connect
the pattern piece after you split it. Cut the pattern piece in half using this line.

Step 4: Lengthen the Pattern Piece

Insert paper between the now split pattern pieces, in this case we have added 2 inches across the front
bodice which. Connect the vertical lines to keep everything even, including the grainline.

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Step 5: Adjust the Front Cutting Line
By adding the 2 inches in the middle of the bodice,
the long front edge is now a bit jagged. Smooth
that edge by redraw the cutting line, splitting the
difference above and below the inserted piece.

Step 6: Add a Dart

With the added length the front bodice is 2 inches
longer than the back bodice piece at the side seam.
To take up that difference add a side bust dart. This
kind of dart is really helpful to get a good fit on a
full bust so don’t be afraid to add one where
none exists.
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Note that the dart point should be about 1.5 to 2
inches away from the bust apex. I find a dart that is
slanted upward is more pleasing to the eye than
one which is completely horizontal. It also helps to
pin your paper pattern pieces together and test on
the body, you can pinch out the extra and see just
where the side dart should go. Make sure the front
and back bodice seams are trued up and you are
ready to try a second muslin.

Step 7: Make a Muslin to Test Your Adjustments

Here is the new muslin of this pattern, with the
bodice length adjustment and a side seam bust
dart added. The bottom of the bodice hits at the
waist, and retains the ease and blousing of the
pattern design. The new dart is creating fullness
where it is needed over the bust and allowing
the fabric to drape instead of pulling the waist
seam upward.

Time to sew your garment!

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With those adjustments the bodice drapes nicely,
the soft blousing is maintained and the dress is
going to be much more comfortable to wear than
it would have been without the front length
adjustment. And no tugging to try to get that
waist seam to stay in place.

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 Sewing Tips for Petites
Finding the Perfect Patterns & Styles
By Pauline Alice

Are you familiar with any of these facts? The hemline of your garments is always 2" too long; the pattern
waistline meets your hip bones; the sleeves and shoulders of your muslin look like they belong to a
football player…

If yes, then you might be a petite lady! If you are under 5' 4", you are considered a size petite by the fashion
industry, as well as the pattern companies industry. And believe me, it’s way easier for us, seamstresses, to
dress our petite bodies than the mere mortals who need to rely on stores.

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But what should you look for in a sewing pattern to work in the best way with body? The importance is not
always to look taller (even if that’s not a bad thing), but to find great proportions and style.

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Let’s review some of the basic tips you should remember if you’re petite when you look for a sewing pattern
and a new project.
Tip #1: Choose the Right Neckline
If you’re petite, then V-necks are your best friends!
It will elongate your neck in a very elegant way
(U-necks are great as well).
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Tip #2: Find Figure-Flattering
Ooptions
It’s best to choose patterns that won’t overwhelm
you, so avoid patterns that have lots of frills or
layers. Instead, look for patterns with simple and
interesting design lines, more on the fitted side
than on the loose one. A good compromise would
be a fitted bodice dress with a slightly gathered or
pleated skirt.

Tip #3: Discover Lovely Length

You want to look for skirts and dresses that hit just
above the knee to create the illusion of longer legs.
But, again, it doesn’t mean you can’t wear a maxi
skirt. In that case, just try to look for a pattern that
is not too full and find a fabric that’s either a solid
or has a small-print pattern.

For your trousers, the best tip would be to wear

heels. However, I’ve also found cropped trousers
and high-waisted pants both look great.
Photo via Craftsy member RedPointTailor !
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 Photo via Craftsy member Fooniks Photo via Craftsy member GoodbyValentino

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Tip #4: Select the Right Colors and Prints
As for fabric, monochromatic prints and small patterns look best on petite frames. Dressing in one color
(or similar shades) creates a unity, while a contrasting top and bottom cuts the body in two.

Stripes are always a debate: vertical or horizontal? It depends of the proportions, but they almost always
look better if they are thin, and while horizontal seems to work best on tops, vertical typically works
better on dresses. Or, you can explore something new and trendy while maintaing a figure-flattering
silhouette — why not try a combination or chevron?
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Tip #5: Accentuate the Waist
Try to follow a 1/3 – 2/3 rule: Accentuate your natural waistline, which is situated approximately at 1/3 of
your body, by wearing your shirts tucked in, high-waisted trousers and skirts, tops with peplum or thin belts,
short and fitted jackets…whatever suits your personal style. Doing so will create nicer proportions and make
your legs appear longer.

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 Meet the Experts
Linda Reynolds
Linda Reynolds learned to sew as a young girl
and has been sewing ever since. Trained as a
professional seamstress, she loves sharing her
passion for the craft as a sewing instructor
teaching garment sewing to teens and adults.
Her blog Simply Sewing Studio offers helpful tips
and easy solutions to everyday sewing dilemmas.
Maris Olsen
Maris Olsen is a seriously awesome sewing geek,
and prefers to spend the majority of each day in
her sewing studio. Since retiring from a hi-tech
career, her new life-mission is to imbue students
young and old with the love of textiles, stitching
and the pure joy of creation. She blogs about her
sewing and teaching adventures at Sew Maris.
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Beth Galvin
Beth started sewing in 3rd grade and discovered
her lifelong fascination with patterns and fabric.
She sews and blogs in beautiful Northern
California, where she makes far too many coats
and jackets for the sunny climate. On her blog
SunnyGal Studio Sewing she shares her projects
with tips on construction and fitting.
www.craftsy.com
Pauline Alice
Pauline is a French independent sewing pattern
designer who started her own line, Pauline Alice
Sewing Patterns, in 2013. Her designs offer a
feminine look and a touch of retro aesthetic for
the modern and everyday lady. She also shares
her sewing journey, tutorials and inspiration on
her blog.
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