Modernise, Build Quality and Upgrade Skills; Ludhiana

Knitwear Cluster
By J.N.Vohra, B.Text, M.Tech, F.I.E., C.Eng., M.I.M.A

There is difference between garments made from woven fabrics, knitted fabrics and
knitwear made directly from yarns. In case of garments made from woven and knitted
fabrics, the value addition on the fabrics, such as dyeing, printing, finishing has
already been accomplished before these fabrics are cut and stitched to form a garment.
Tirupur is the prime centre of the industry that makes garments from knitted fabrics
and Ludhiana is the prime centre that mostly makes knitwear straight from yarns.

Ludhiana Cluster

In Ludhiana, we can easily see goings-on in the knitwear units that revolve around the
production and sale of knitwear garments. Knitwear are a highly distinguished
category, in terms of design and quality and hence, price. Over the years, knitwear
products are becoming highly fashionable, embellished and as comfort wear.

In case of knitwear, the yarns supplied by spinning mills are directly converted in the
garment form. The yarns are either greige or dyed or are fancy such as Grindle, slub,
boucle, snarl, and crinkle or in other forms. There are a large number of suppliers
selling different grades of yarn and these yarns are procured by producers to initiate
the production process.

Here, most of the knitwear producers or exporters generally confine to stages such as
knitting, cutting, stitching and finishing activities and get the prior stages done by
specialized firms.

The knit-in designing and fashioning of the knitwear is done on individual machines,
either manually operated or on computerised machines by individual workman. It is
important that individual worker behind these machine is fully skilled. However,
some value addition, such as panel printing, embroidery, applique work, attachments
of frills, beads and zardosi work etc. is accomplished either within the units or are
sent out to specialised persons or firms.

On the other hand, the industry making garments from woven or knitted fabrics needs
to be seamlessly linked with fabric manufacturers/suppliers, dyers, printers all along
the value chain

The garment and knitwear sector has usually been viewed as a major source of
employment generation. Rapid expansion of the garment industry within the last two
decades has certainly given a boost to job creation, which is otherwise less than ten
per cent in the South Asian countries
Bangladesh's RMG sector — composed of the knitwear and woven garments, is
employing 1.8 million people, most of whom are women. Tirupur cluster generates
direct employment for over 3 Lakh persons and Ludhiana provides direct employment
to 4 Lakh persons out which 40% are migrants.

Knitwear exports are mainly from five South Asian countries; Bangladesh, India,
Nepal, Pakistan and Sri Lanka. Collectively, these countries have generated sizeable
employment in the recent years. Ludhiana exports knitwear and knitted garments
worth Rs.1200 Crore and about Rs.800 Crore knitwear are indirectly exported, being
outsourced by Delhi exporters.

Build Quality

Many studies done earlier have determined that Ludhiana Knitwear industry lacks
quality consciousness at the different levels of management. Many a times, units
resort to using inferior materials and non-standard methods due to the cost factor, thus
compromising the quality aspects. Though, many computerised machines have been
installed in Ludhiana, but still majority are still manual knitting and perhaps would
remain so for many years to come.

At this juncture the realisation has dawned upon Ludhiana Knitwear manufacturers
that for the production of quality knitwear improvised and new techniques and
methods are required to maintain stringent quality measures to bench mark with the
best of the knitwear industry all over the world. They also now realise that
implementing such systems in Ludhiana knitwear industry are paramount to sustain
the city as a prime destination for outside buyers coming to India.

Nevertheless, factors such as lack of unskilled workers and executives, lack of

coordination between different segments of knitwear industries and educational
institutions is urgent need to bring quality awareness at all level of operation.

It is essential for units engaged in export business to sustain a high level of quality to
build creditability and ensure better business globally. As we know that quality
control standards for export are stringent. Bad supplies not only affect export business
of an individual firm but can also damage the prestige of other suppliers in the
country.

In the knitwear industry quality control need to be practiced right from the initial
stage of sourcing yarns to the stage of final finished garment. There are numbers of
factors on which quality of knitwear industry is based such as -performance,
reliability, durability, visual and perceived quality of the garment, however, quality
needs to be established within the ambit of costs vis-à-vis selling price.

The apparent quality of knitwear is comprised of a number of features; ultimately,

these are those features that achieve the desired level of satisfaction for the customer.
For exporting units, quality control starts even before the sales contracts have been
finalised and it extends to timely delivery, correct packing, and after-sales service. All
these functions are supposed to be performed by merchandisers employed by the
company. Since much is at stake, the company has to ensure that these merchandisers
are highly skilled to perform their jobs.
Modernise

Thankfully, the amount of investments in terms of plant & machinery and overheads
in a knitwear unit is not very high, what is required is efficient management for
adopting lean production system, waste reduction and timely deliveries for exports.

In case of hand Flats, to produce knit structures for a given knitwear designs and
qualities, the companies install machines with various specifications; gauges, jacquard
and intarsia, and attachments for plaiting. The making up is done by Linking
machines, Stitching machines of different varieties, Button Holing and Stitching
machines followed by finishing on Washers, Tumble Dryers and Flat-bed steam
presses.

Computerised machines and stitching and making up equipment with modern

technology by itself are no guarantee for quality. It is the skilled persons at the back
of the operations that maintain consistent quality at a productivity level since they
possess an eye to detect and rectify errors at every stage. The talent of inspection of
individual knitwear before they are packed is a highly skilled job.

If a knitwear manufacturer decides to install high value modern equipment, it

necessitates:

• Investments
• Up gradation of skills
• Improvement in layouts
• Usage of good quality materials
• Mind set for maintaining adequate environment
• Back-up with managerial skills

It has been seen that modern technology and up gradation of skills surely contribute to
maintain perfection in productivity levels for particular set of knitwear designs,
however, the real advantage flows from improvement in the working environment and
paying attention to workers’ concerns to enable workers to utilize their skills to make
optimum use of the technology employed, Ludhiana knitwear manufacturers now
understand this..