How we can increase the GSM of fabric.

GSM in fabric, also known as grams per square meter is simply the metric
measurement of the weight of a fabric. This measurement helps one decide on
the best weight to buy, considering the usage of the material at hand. Knit is one
of the main sources of fabrics. There are many parameters for producing knit
fabrics. Gram per Square Meter (GSM) is probably the most important thing for
knitting, as the knit fabric is sold on the basis of GSM. GSM depends on
various parameters like yarn count, stitch length, machine gauge, wales per
inch, course per inch etc. The basic objective of this study is to observe the grey
and finished GSM variation due to change in yarn count, stitch length and
machine gauge.

The higher the GSM number, the denser the fabric will be. For example, if the
label on a linen shirt reads 180-200 GSM, the shirt material would be thick and
would probably keep one warm. On warmer days, the best pick would be a shirt
that is 130-150 GSM which is bound to be airy and flimsy. On the other hand,
consumers shopping for cheap, promotional shirts would opt to buy 100-110
GSM shirts, as these would only be worn a very few times and even if it fades
after each wash, it probably doesn’t really matter.

How to increase the GSM of fabric:

1. Variable Dia Quality Pulley: GSM of a grey fabric should be controlled by

Variable dia quality pulley (VDQP). If Variable dia quality pulley pushed
positive side, then the dia and stitch length is increased. As a result, GSM is
decreased. If variable dia quality pulley pushed at negative side, then the dia and
stitch length of grey fabric decreased. As a result, GSM is increased.

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2. Count of yarn: GSM of grey fabric depends on count of yarn. If the count of
yarn is high, then the GSM of grey fabric is low. If the count of yarn is low,
then the GSM of grey fabric is high. Yarn Count is the number of indicating the
mass per unit length or length per unit mass of yarn. For assessing the effect of
yarn count on GSM, the all other parameters are kept constant except yarn
count. In this way several observations are taken.

Figure: GSM variation of grey and finished fabric according to yarn

count.

Figure shows that the grey and finished fabric GSM decreased by increasing
yarn count. Because the yarn count difference is more than that of other. It can
be calculated that the decreasing rate of GSM is about 8% with about 10%
increasing rate of yarn count. On the other hand the finished GSM not decreased
the same way. However, finished GSM may vary due to the variation in dyeing
and finishing process.

3. M/c gauge: If m/c gauge is higher, then the GSM of grey fabric should be
high. If the m/c gauge is lower, then GSM of grey fabric should be low.

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 Table: GSM variation of grey and finished fabric according to
machine gauge.

Table shows that the yarn count 30, stitch length 2.7 cm, machine diameter 30
and the gauge of machine are 20, 24, 28 and 30. Figure show that the grey
fabric GSM increased with an increase in machine gauge. Grey GSM increases
in the same way. The increasing rate of GSM is 3% with an increase rate of
machine gauge is 20%.

Figure: Variation of GSM according to the machine Gauge

Here, the grey GSM follow a linear path in figure. The increasing machine
gauge means more yarn in a unit length and will cause greater GSM. For
example, in case of 30 machine gauge, it means the machine has 30 needle per
inch, so 30 needle means 30 wales per inch. So the GSM will be more.

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4. Stitch length: High stitch length fabric has low GSM & Low stitch length
fabric has high GSM. Stitch length means single length of yarn which includes
one needle loop half the length of yarn between that needle loop and the
adjacent needle loops on either side of it. It influences fabric dimension and
other properties including weight. In order to determine the stitch length, 100
wales or stitches are counted and its length is measured by hanging the yarn on
the stitch counter. The reading is taken in cm. the effect of stitch length on GSM
is determined by keeping other parameters constant with a variation in the value
of stitch length of fabric. By comparing fabric with different stitch length their
GSM has been tabulated.

5. Tension of take up roller: If the tension is increased in take up roller, then

the GSM of grey fabric will be low. If the tension of take up roller is decreased,
then the GSM of grey fabric will be high.

6. Yarn type: GSM of grey fabric depends of yarn type. Different types of yarn
produce different GSM fabric. For example, Polyester yarn produce lower GSM
fabric & cotton yarn produce high GSM fabric.

Conclusion:
The GSM is probably the most important thing in knit fabric production,
purchase and selling. The GSM is affected by many factors among them the
best 6 parameters are discussed. The change is GSM due to change in machine
gauge and yarn count is not negligible. These two factor contribute a large in
changing GSM. From this study it can be implemented to get targeted GSM
even without increasing the wales per inch or course per inch and even not the
stitch length. For getting very accurate and flawless ratio more data should be
analyzed for establishing the accurate relation among GSM, machine gauge,
yarn count etc.

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