Fridge/Freezer Repair advice

Hi,

I have a Hotpoint fridge/freezer that was left in the house we

moved into as part of the buying process. I would estimate it to
be around 3 yrs old.

Recently it has started making more noise than usual when the
motor/cooling mechanism starts up, sometimes this noise is only
as it starts up - other times it's continuous.

When you open the freezer door (the mechanism is behind the
ice compartment at the top) you can hear this noise - it's quite
loud and sounds as if something is loose or rattling?

It doesnt happen all the time and has died down over the last
few days and gone back to normal but it started again last night?

The performance of the fridge and freezer seems to be

unaffected but I know it needs looking at before it stops
altogether.

Has anyone got any experience of fixing such appliances? Any

idea what it could possibly be and how much it's gonna cost me?
(I know my technical explanation above may be lacking in detail
- sorry)

Really I dont wanna fork out a 50 quid call out charge for
someone to come and tell me it's gonna cost 100 quid+ to fix - I
would rather put the 50 quid towards a new fully warranted
fridge/freezer.

I have also seen on hotpoints site that their current range of

fridge/freezers comes with a 5 yr parts warranty - I dont know if
my current fridge/freezer came with a similar warranty but,
would anyone know if

A) is this warranty transferable from the original purchaser of the

appliance?

and

B) if it has to be an engineer from Hotpoint who comes out to

make the diagnosis?

Thanks for any help you can offer!

Paul
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#2
George_Bray
09-09-2004, 2:20 PM
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Re: Fridge/Freezer Repair advice
The primary moving part in a fridge or freezer is the
compressor. When the compressor is working, you
can always hear something. In between times, it isn't
turning because the fridge is already cold enough,
and the compressor can take a rest.
If the compressor itself is making excessive noise, it
could be that the fridge has lost some refrigerant
through a leak. Have you noticed the cooling
efficiency diminish?
Or perhaps the compressor bearings were damaged
in a move.
Or maybe the compressor is resonating or vibrating
against another loose panel, even if there is nothing
wrong with the compressor itself.
My gut feeling is that it would probably be
uneconomic to have the fridge re-gassed, or the
compressor replaced, like for a car. Domestic fridges
should never leak because they are built in a
different way to the air con for cars. If it's a simple
vibration, then repair might be an option.
I hope this helps.
Regards
George
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#3
pjrouse
09-09-2004, 2:59 PM

MoneySaving Convert Re: Fridge/Freezer Repair advice

  Quote:
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 35 The primary moving part in a fridge or freezer
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
is the compressor. !When the compressor is
working, you can always hear something. In
between times, it isn't turning because the
fridge is already cold enough, and the
compressor can take a rest.

If the compressor itself is making excessive

noise, it could be that the fridge has lost some
refrigerant through a leak. Have you noticed
the cooling efficiency diminish?

Or perhaps the compressor bearings were

damaged in a move.

Or maybe the compressor is resonating or

vibrating against another loose panel, even if
there is nothing wrong with the compressor
itself.

My gut feeling is that it would probably be

uneconomic to have the fridge re-gassed, or
the compressor replaced, like for a car.
Domestic fridges should never leak because
they are built in a different way to the air con
for cars. If it's a simple vibration, then repair
might be an option.

I hope this helps.


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#4
George_Bray
09-09-2004, 7:41 PM
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Regards
George
Thanks so much George !!
I havent noticed any leaks but will double check
tonight - plus it seems to be as efficient as
always so that could rule that out.
It hasnt been moved in the year we have been
there so again hopefully that should rule that
out.
It does sound like somethings loose as it is a
kind of resonance/vibration type noise - i will
take out all the drawers etc and check - however
if it was such a thing - would it happen all the
time or does the compresser have different
speeds ? - ie it happens only when the
compresser is working hardest ??
Thanks again
Paul
Re: Fridge/Freezer Repair advice
Paul
I'm not sure the compressor works harder at some
times than others, but I could be wrong. The main
issue is called cycling; whether the compressor is off
or on, and for how long.
There could also be a manufacturing fault, I guess,
whereby the compressor is just noisy. A domestic
 fridge is almost hermetically sealed with a charge of
refrigerant, which varies between a gas and a liquid
at various stages of the cooling process, plus a
quantity of oil, which is carried round by the
refrigerant. The purpose of the oil is to lubricate the
compressor. If gas is leaking, then oil will also
escape and the compressor would start making a
noise in the absence of enough lubrication, on its
way to complete failure.

There are other more obscure reasons why the

compressor may make a noise, but all these reasons
come within the category of 'uneconomic repair' in
my opinion. The best hope you have, is that the
noise is really just vibration.

Regards
George

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#5
janet 123
21-04-2010, 1:55 PM

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HI
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My fridge freezer is only two years old and i dont
know why it has suddnely stopped working, all
lights on inside and outside but warm inside also
the beepng sound when door left open no longer
makes that sound, who do i call if 12 months
warrenty over and its still like new, and i dont
want to pay a fortune.
i have tryed turnng it on and off also nothing
happening help ....
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#6
kwatt
21-04-2010, 4:11 PM

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  Hi Janet,
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Scotland A make and model would be helpful as well as what
Posts: 603 type it is, frost free, normal etc.
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K.
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into
trouble. Its what you know for sure that just ain't
so." Mark Twain

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#7
pimento
26-04-2010, 6:11 PM

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Sorry to hijack this, but I have an LG side by side
  fridge freezer (without the external ice dispenser) and
Join Date: Apr 2008 it has been moved around our kitchen a few times in
Posts: 2,659 the past three weeks while we've been having work
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done in our kitchen.

I've noticed a slow, intermittant dripping noise coming

from low down inside the back of the fridge. I'm pretty
sure it wasn't making this noise before. The fridge is
 due to be move yet again this week (for the last time
hopefully) when our flooring is laid.

The temperature seems OK in both the frisge and the

freezer, but I'm worried that moving it around so
much has damaged it in some way.

It's about five years old, so well out of guarantee.

Any ideas?

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#8
pimento
27-04-2010, 9:49 AM

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#9
tracy71
31-07-2010, 12:58 PM

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Join Date: Jul 2010 Was wondering if anyone can help me I have a
Posts: 2
samsung RL41WGTB fridge freezer that is only 13
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months old & has stopped working there is also a
constant clicking noise coming from behind the
appliance has any one else had a problem like this

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# 10
Jake'sGran
04-08-2010, 10:59 AM

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I am worried about ours as I hate the thought of
things going off. The fridge is warm and freezer is as
normal, things freeze. I bought a new thermostat as
recommended on here. Boss man convinced he fitted
it correctly but nothing has changed. Now frantically
looking for new FF
but cannot find one of the right size (148cms tall).
It's just all too much By the way, the FF does
make the usual noises like turning itself on and then
off. I even heard some noises like ice cracking but
situation still the same.

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# 11
fontmell
29-09-2010, 8:18 PM
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Hi,
Posts: 1
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Followed this thread with interest.

I have a Hotpoint fridge freezer which works fine.

However it is really noisy, occasionally sounding
like falling rocks. Probably the sound of breaking
& falling ice. I have tried to sneak up on it when
the noise starts but haven't managed to pinpoint
it.

Any ideas gratefully received - it's keeping th dog

awake!.

Regards - Andy

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# 12
yelloworb
26-02-2011, 8:42 PM

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Hi we have a hotpoint f/f and have discovered a
small tear in the inside of the freezer about half an
inch- the temp is fine- can anyone tell me if this will
affect the freezer in anyway. The damage was
caused by the freezer draw, a piece had broken off
and pierced the side- I do not want to replace the
draws if the freezer is useless- thanks

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# 13
gilbertkjc
18-04-2011, 2:07 PM

MoneySaving Newbie Fridge Repairs

 
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soultions fast and easy on fridge repairs at
edthefridgeman.com.au.
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# 14
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19-04-2011, 8:32 AM

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Join Date: Mar 2008 is in an australian repairman spamming a UK site
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# 15
ttlo
02-05-2011, 2:48 AM

MoneySaving Newbie Fridge Freezer Smells

 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1 Hello Everyone.
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts I have also been reading this thread carefully to see
if anyone has been having problems with horrible
odours from their fridge freezers !

This is something i had never experienced in my life

before and hence tried deepcleaning my entire
kitchen before i finally concluded it was my fridge
( and specifically the back of my fridge ) that was
letting out an absolutely vile smell.

I have read people are having trouble with noisy

compressors.. and im guessing that might be the
next problem i will face..

Has anyone here actually called over an engineer to

look at their fridge freezer for noisy parts or vile
smells ? how much does it cost to replace a
compressor ?

Appreciate any tips and BTW i have a BEKO CDA

565FW and it is not even one year old..so
disappointed and cannot even enter my kitchen !

Thanks

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# 16
kwatt
 03-05-2011, 10:02 AM

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Hi,
Smells from fridges etc. can only really be caused by
something in them or, something spilled on/in them. I
wrote an article on the subject here that might help
explain a bit further.

To replace a compressor although, that will not in any

way, shape or form cause an odour, will cost the thick
end of £200 on that machine I'd expect.

HTH

K.
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble.
Its what you know for sure that just ain't so." Mark
Twain

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# 17
NettyB
18-05-2011, 4:28 PM

MoneySaving Newbie Hotpoint Future FF200E Fridge/Freezer

 
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Posts: 1 Hi there,
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I don't know if anyone can help me but here goes
anyway.

Our Hoptpoint fridge isn't running cold enough even

though it's on a boost and at it coldest setting. It
hasn't been open or moved or anything. Does anyone
have any idea what it might be, if it's something that
someone might be able to fix if we get someone out?
 Thanks
Annette

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# 18
kwatt
19-05-2011, 12:07 AM

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Hi Annette,
You'd need to offer up a lot more information on the
fridge freezer, like the model number to start with for
any help. But, in the interim, I've written several
guides that may help that you can access here.
Reading through those may well help you to
understand the problem if not solve it.

HTH

K.
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into
trouble. Its what you know for sure that just ain't so."
Mark Twain

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# 19
smile7777
26-07-2011, 12:37 AM
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# 20
Zeerust
14-09-2011, 12:53 PM
Problem: Frost and ice form in my KitchenAid side by
side freezer and my fridge is not cold enough 2 days
after completely defrosting the freezer coils. Initially
both the refrigerator and freezer get cold after I
manually defrost the coils/fins (condenser?) in the
freezer compartment. The blower fan above the
coils/fins in the freezer is clean and works quietly. It
seems that the blower is always running. After a day or
two the refrigerator has little cool air blowing into it
from the freezer duct. I removed the control door/flap in
the air duct from the freezer to the refrigerator to make
sure that there was no obstruction of cold air from the
freezer to the refrigerator. The return air vent from the
bottom of the refrigerator compartment to the freezer is
open and unobstructed. The under side and back of the
refrigerator/freezer are clean and with obstructions. The
drain from the freezer below the coils/fins is
unobstructed to the collection pan below the unit.
Are these possible diagnosis/Solutions?:
1. defrost timer-it may be defective. (How do I
Check/test it?)
2. defrost heater-if defective, replace it. (How do I
Check/test it?)
3. defrost thermostat-if defective, replace it. (How do I
Check/test it?)
Help!
MoneySaving Convert Pabl rff 50/50

  Tried to find a solution to my Fridge

Join Date: Sep 2005 Freezer problem.
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Its a integrated (built in) unit which I
have removed to see if anything
obvious. Make PABL ... Model RFF
50/50 ... just over 2 years old.

Compressor working, but a little

noisy ... don't think it's the thermostat
as both fridge and freezer not
working ... so I think it's the
compressor/heat exchanger.

Some of the pipes behind are getting

hot but none are cold.

If the was a leak of the gas, how could

you tell? My guess that it's not
economic to repair.

Tried to call the service number but out

of use. Have PABL gone out of
business?

GDA BM20 Fridge Freezer

My integrated fridge-freezer has recently stopped getting cold.

I suspect it may be the thermostat as it doesn't seem to be switching

on/off as the control knob is turned so I'd like to try replacing it
myself before paying a repair technician.

Looking on various spare suppliers' websites a genuine part seems to

be upwards of £70 eg
http://www.yourspares.co.uk/parts/gd...C00215230.aspx

On the other hand, I see similar items for under £10 eg

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270789993655

Is it worth trying the cheap one? Is replacement simply a matter of

pulling the capillary tube out and pushing the new one in?
You can find any answers you want on the Internet.It's working out which ones
are right that is so difficult.
A Nice Englishman

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# 22
wen-tom
03-10-2011, 4:42 PM

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  Hi, I'm wondering how, or if it's possible to

Join Date: Oct 2008 find out what caused a compressor to fail?
Posts: 326 I have recently had one replaced
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chargeable as samsung said it wasn't
covered by their warranty. my worry is that
the engineer didn't even look at it when he
came to inspect it. just turned the FF on
and heard a whirring/squeaking noise and
said straight away its the compressor. The
problem was it was not freezing or cooling
(the norm for samsung!)

It was replaced and the old one was left

here. not sure why!

My question is, is there any way to find out

why it failed? the FF is only 2.5 years old.
Wendy

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# 23
brockhfx
13-10-2011, 6:01 PM

MoneySaving Newbie fridge freezer repair

 
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Posts: 1
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i have a hotpoint ff ariston ff200ex the freezer
works fine but the fridge as stoped getting cold any
ideas wots up would be appreciated thanks.

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# 24
blond bim bow
20-10-2011, 3:26 PM

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I need advise. I have just changed the door on my
fridge and in doing so i laid the fridge on it's back,
when i stood it back up i noticed a puddle of oil on
the floor, is this from the compressor? will the fridge
catch fire if it runs with less oil? it is still working
but i'm worried.

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# 25
grizzly1911
20-10-2011, 5:25 PM

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Location: North West Originally Posted by pjrouse
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Hi,

I have a Hotpoint fridge/freezer that was left

in the house we moved into as part of the
buying process. I would estimate it to be
around 3 yrs old.

Recently it has started making more noise

than usual when the motor/cooling
mechanism starts up, sometimes this noise
is only as it starts up - other times it's
continuous.

When you open the freezer door (the

mechanism is behind the ice compartment
at the top) you can hear this noise - it's
quite loud and sounds as if something is
loose or rattling?

It doesnt happen all the time and has died

down over the last few days and gone back
to normal but it started again last night?

The performance of the fridge and freezer

seems to be unaffected but I know it needs
looking at before it stops altogether.

Has anyone got any experience of fixing

such appliances? Any idea what it could
possibly be and how much it's gonna cost
me? (I know my technical explanation above
may be lacking in detail - sorry)

Really I dont wanna fork out a 50 quid call

out charge for someone to come and tell me
it's gonna cost 100 quid+ to fix - I would
rather put the 50 quid towards a new fully
warranted fridge/freezer.

I have also seen on hotpoints site that their

current range of fridge/freezers comes with
a 5 yr parts warranty - I dont know if my
current fridge/freezer came with a similar
warranty but, would anyone know if

A) is this warranty transferable from the

original purchaser of the appliance?

and
 B) if it has to be an engineer from Hotpoint
who comes out to make the diagnosis?

Thanks for any help you can offer!

Paul

If it is only that old would think it is something

simple.

Sure there isn't anything vibrating against the

inside, a bottle or jar reverberating?

Has it been moved, even slightly, for cleaning

perhaps? Is it still level, usually adjustable feet
on the front edge?

5 year guarantee is good marketing. It is parts

only providing registered when new. You have
to have one of their engineers do the job for a
fixed price of around £100 a pop unless you
prepay for their insurance.
Don't eat yellow snow

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# 26
grizzly1911
20-10-2011, 5:27 PM

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  Quote:
Join Date: May 2011
Location: North West Originally Posted by fontmell
Posts: 1,901 Hi,
Thanked 963 Times in 642 Posts
Followed this thread with interest.

I have a Hotpoint fridge freezer which works

 fine. However it is really noisy, occasionally
sounding like falling rocks. Probably the sound
of breaking & falling ice. I have tried to sneak
up on it when the noise starts but haven't
managed to pinpoint it.

Any ideas gratefully received - it's keeping th

dog awake!.

Regards - Andy

Might be ice cracking on the autodefrost cycle?

Don't eat yellow snow

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# 27
grizzly1911
20-10-2011, 5:29 PM

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  Quote:
Join Date: May 2011
Location: North West Originally Posted by yelloworb
Posts: 1,901 Hi we have a hotpoint f/f and have discovered
Thanked 963 Times in 642 Posts
a small tear in the inside of the freezer about
half an inch- the temp is fine- can anyone tell
me if this will affect the freezer in anyway. The
damage was caused by the freezer draw, a
piece had broken off and pierced the side- I do
not want to replace the draws if the freezer is
useless- thanks

Cover it with some gaffer tape(make sure it is

thoroughly dry first) to stop the insulation getting
damp and smelly. As long as it is freezing should
be OK.
Don't eat yellow snow
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# 28
grizzly1911
20-10-2011, 5:36 PM

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  Quote:
Join Date: May 2011
Location: North West Originally Posted by ttlo
Posts: 1,901 Hello Everyone.
Thanked 963 Times in 642 Posts
I have also been reading this thread carefully
to see if anyone has been having problems
with horrible odours from their fridge freezers !

This is something i had never experienced in

my life before and hence tried deepcleaning my
entire kitchen before i finally concluded it was
my fridge ( and specifically the back of my
fridge ) that was letting out an absolutely vile
smell.

I have read people are having trouble with

noisy compressors.. and im guessing that
might be the next problem i will face..

Has anyone here actually called over an

engineer to look at their fridge freezer for noisy
parts or vile smells ? how much does it cost to
replace a compressor ?

Appreciate any tips and BTW i have a BEKO

CDA 565FW and it is not even one year old..so
disappointed and cannot even enter my kitchen
!

Thanks

Courtesy of KWATT article

In almost all appliances of this type there is a

drain hole below that wall, or plate, that the
water runs into this goes to a tube that deposits
the water in a tray on the compressor (motor).
 The heat from the motor evaporates the liquid
into the air harmlessly. Often that drain hole can
get blocked and this can lead to water in the
fridge another fault caused by poor cleaning,
check that first if you do have a problem as it
may well not be a fault covered by warranty. If
that drain is blocked, or partially blocked with
spilled foodstuff then it can create a terrible smell

We had the same with a built in fridge, smell was

coming from above units, the drain hole was clear
but the tray the water runs into at the back was
full of something like tar (decomposed something
or other).

Thoroughly cleaned the tray, plastic spatula,

warm soapy water and bleach. Dried it off, put
fridge back, no problems since.
Don't eat yellow snow

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# 29
grizzly1911
20-10-2011, 5:45 PM

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  Quote:
Join Date: May 2011
Location: North West Originally Posted by Zeerust
Posts: 1,901 Tried to find a solution to my Fridge Freezer
Thanked 963 Times in 642 Posts
problem.

Its a integrated (built in) unit which I have

removed to see if anything obvious. Make PABL
... Model RFF 50/50 ... just over 2 years old.

Compressor working, but a little noisy ... don't

think it's the thermostat as both fridge and
freezer not working ... so I think it's the
 compressor/heat exchanger.

Some of the pipes behind are getting hot but

none are cold.

If the was a leak of the gas, how could you

tell? My guess that it's not economic to repair.

Tried to call the service number but out of use.

Have PABL gone out of business?

Pete

The pipes get hot as they dissipate the heat the

circulating refrigerant "sucks" out of the fridge.
The cold bit is in the fridge.

Is the thermostat set high enough? Is there any

trip/reset switch? Is there any quick freeze
override?
Don't eat yellow snow

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# 30
grizzly1911
20-10-2011, 5:53 PM

Serious MoneySaving Fan

  Quote:
Join Date: May 2011
Location: North West Originally Posted by A Nice Englishman
Posts: 1,901 My integrated fridge-freezer has recently stopped
Thanked 963 Times in 642 Posts
getting cold.

I suspect it may be the thermostat as it doesn't

seem to be switching on/off as the control knob is
turned so I'd like to try replacing it myself before
paying a repair technician.
 Looking on various spare suppliers' websites a
genuine part seems to be upwards of £70 eg
http://www.yourspares.co.uk/parts/gd...C0021523
0.aspx

On the other hand, I see similar items for under

£10 eg http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270789993655

Is it worth trying the cheap one? Is replacement

simply a matter of pulling the capillary tube out
and pushing the new one in?

Providing it is the right part I would try the ebay one.

Have you checked out the video?

Some of the popular search results for spares stores

are pretty steep for basic stuff IMO
Don't eat yellow snow

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# 31
kwatt
22-10-2011, 1:08 AM

MoneySaving Stalwart

  Just make sure you buy the correct stat.

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Scotland Get it wrong and the temp range is out and you'll
Posts: 603
either have frozen tomatoes or food that is
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breeding bacteria and, that'll make you sick.

That's why, in commercial premises there's laws

about this stuff. Domestic, nobody seems to care.

It's not worth the risk, either buy the correct one
or get proper advice on which universal
replacement to buy.

K.
 "It ain't what you don't know that gets you into
trouble. Its what you know for sure that just ain't
so." Mark Twain

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# 32
Ventnorfan
26-10-2011, 2:00 PM

MoneySaving Newbie Neff fridge model K4314

Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 3
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I am trying to replace the temperature regulator and
believe it is necessary to remove the temperature
control knob first. There is a small slot in the side
which would suggest there is either a small fixing
screw or a tab to depress. However I cannot feel
anything when poking around with a small electrical
screwdriver!
How do I remove this knob?

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# 33
wend2410
20-11-2011, 10:32 PM

MoneySaving Newbie Proline Chest Freeze be r help!

 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Beverley We've had our Proline chest freezer for a couple of
Posts: 2
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# 34
ormus
20-11-2011, 11:44 PM
Deliciously Dedicated Doubly
Diehard MoneySaving Devotee
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: bolton le moors
Posts: 38,755
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Posts
years and its always worked fine. However, one of
the hinges on the lid recently broke so the lid
doesn't stay up but does close. Then one day -
about a couple of weeks after we first notice the
lid broken, I opened my freezer and all the food
had defrosted!!! Thankfully it wasn't full but we
still wasted a lot! The power light was still on
though so I couldn't work out what was wrong.
After emptying the freezer we put it on boost to
see if it would freeze again. it did and it stays
frozen when like this. I know this is not
economical but it seems to be the only way to
keep it frozen. I have taken it off boost and it
seems to stay frozen for a couple of days on the
normal power but then I can see its starting to
defrost so back on boost it goes. Any ideas why
this is happening - could it be the lid gasket/seal
or just a case of getting a new hinge for the lid?
Or could it be something else. It wasn't a hugely
expensive freezer brand new so don't want to
have to pay a huge call out fee if I don't need to.
Unfortunately with Xmas approaching, yes it is
important to have the freezer, but could really do
without the cost of a new one.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
just replace it. esp a cheap model.
the engineers call out fee alone will cost nearly the
same a new freezer.
add any parts (at top dollar) and the bill could be
higher.
Socialism works only until you run out of other

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# 35
mr_fishey
21-11-2011, 8:49 AM
MoneySaving Convert
  Quote:
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 103
Thanked 25 Times in 22 Posts
All the boost switch does is bypass the thermostat and
apply 240 volts(mains power) direct to the
peoples money.
Originally Posted by wend2410
We've had our Proline chest freezer for a couple of
years and its always worked fine. However, one of
the hinges on the lid recently broke so the lid
doesn't stay up but does close. Then one day -
about a couple of weeks after we first notice the lid
broken, I opened my freezer and all the food had
defrosted!!! Thankfully it wasn't full but we still
wasted a lot! The power light was still on though so
I couldn't work out what was wrong. After emptying
the freezer we put it on boost to see if it would
freeze again. it did and it stays frozen when like
this. I know this is not economical but it seems to
be the only way to keep it frozen. I have taken it
off boost and it seems to stay frozen for a couple of
days on the normal power but then I can see its
starting to defrost so back on boost it goes. Any
ideas why this is happening - could it be the lid
gasket/seal or just a case of getting a new hinge
for the lid? Or could it be something else. It wasn't
a hugely expensive freezer brand new so don't
want to have to pay a huge call out fee if I don't
need to. Unfortunately with Xmas approaching, yes
it is important to have the freezer, but could really
do without the cost of a new one.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
 compressor to make it run continuously. It sounds like
the thermostat is not working I'm afraid.

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# 36
Lexi_Helms
05-01-2012, 8:33 PM

MoneySaving Newbie
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Hi all,
Posts: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I was wondering if someone could help me. I'm
living in a rented property, and I've noticed that
the fridge part of the fridge / freezer (Samsung
RL33SBSW) isnt working properly. Its keeping food
cold, but its dangerously close to the "danger
zone" (6 degrees or higher... sorry, Food Teacher
coming out!). The freezer works fine.

This is the first property I've lived in that isnt

University quarters, and I've no idea where I stand
with the Fridge Freezer! Am I responcible for the
repair, or is the Landlord? Can anyone shed any
light on what the problem with the fridge is?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
Lexi.
First, check to see if the light comes on or if there is any fan, motor, or other sound coming
from the appliance? If so, the refrigerator isn't really completely stopped--go to the specific
problem you are having. If not, try adjusting the thermostat to a colder setting. If that doesn't
work, read on.
Second, check to see if there is power getting to the refrigerator. To do that, plug a lamp or
other device into the same outlet the refrigerator is plugged into. If there's no power, check
the fuses or circuit breakers. If the fuses or breakers aren't the problem, contact a qualified
electrician to restore power to the outlet.
If there is power to the appliance but it still seems to be stopped, there may be a problem in
one or more of these:
Wiring
Thermostat
Defrost timer
Compressor
Overload and/or relay
Unfortunately, we can't describe all of the possible problems and repair solutions here. If you
are unable to troubleshoot the problem from here, you may need to contact a qualified
appliance repair technician.
It's not cool
If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is
running.
First, answer these questions:
Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”
Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.
Next, see if the compressor motor is running
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of
the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise
and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or
more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair
technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a
problem with one or more of these:
The compressor
The Thermostat
The overload, relay, or capacitor
The defrost timer
The condenser fan motor
Cooling is poor
For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the
How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling
poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:
Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser
that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see
these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a
build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the
freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or
damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to
cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating
fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils
are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite
limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-
defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn
the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be
sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to
overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up
has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator
then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting
system:
The defrost timer
The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
The defrost heater. To determine if the defrost heater is burned out, watch the part testing
video at the bottom of this page.
If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the
compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further
diagnose the problem
Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the
refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint,
the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-
like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the
power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils
of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it
may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
It's noisy
Noise can come from these areas:
The inside of the freezer
The outside back of the refrigerator
The bottom of the refrigerator
The inside of the freezer
Self-defrosting refrigerators use a circulating fan to move the air through the freezer and
refrigerator compartments. This fan runs whenever the unit is cooling. The fan is located in
the freezer, as follows:
If the freezer is on top, the fan is on the back wall, near the top or bottom, in the center of the
freezer.
If the freezer is on the bottom, the fan is on the back wall, near the top of the freezer.
If the freezer is on the left, the fan is on the back wall, halfway up or near the top.
Over time, the fan may become noisy--usually making a chirping or squealing sound, though it
may make a loud groaning noise instead.
To find out if the fan is causing the noise, just open the freezer door and push in any fan/light
switches. If the noise is louder when the door is open, the evaporator fan motor is the cause.
You can't lubricate or repair this motor. You must replace it.
The outside back of the refrigerator
There are three components on the outside back of the refrigerator that may become noisy:
the compressor, the condenser fan motor (if self-defrosting), or the defrost timer (if self-
defrosting).
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. You can see it on the
outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. It is usually black and has black or
copper-colored tubes and various colored wires attached to it. If the compressor is the device
making noise, there is probably no repair that will reduce the noise. You will have to replace
it--which can be quite costly.
If the condenser fan is making noise, there may be a build-up of lint or other debris on the fan
blade. The fan is located near the back of the machine, sometimes behind a thin panel. To
clean it, first unplug the refrigerator, remove the thin panel, and use a soft bristle brush to
clean it. If there is no lint build-up or debris on the blade, you will have to replace the motor.
The defrost timer is often located at the bottom of the refrigerator, near the front and behind
the kick plate. Occasionally the electric motor inside the timer may become noisy. The timer
must be replaced to solve this problem.
The bottom of the refrigerator
Noises detected at the bottom of the refrigerator almost always originate from the back of the
refrigerator. However, sometimes the drain pan under the refrigerator will rattle. You may
need to tape the pan in place to stop a rattle. Also see the “Outside back of the refrigerator.”
It leaks
Water can leak from these areas:
The bottom front of the refrigerator or freezer door
The back of the refrigerator
The inside ceiling of the refrigerator
The inside back wall of the refrigerator
Underneath the front of the refrigerator
The bottom front of the refrigerator or freezer door
Self-defrosting refrigerators usually dispose of the water generated during the defrost cycle
via a tube or channel that directs the water to a pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. From
the pan, the water normally evaporates. (See a more detailed explanation of this in the How
Things Work section of our website).
If the tube or channel is clogged or obstructed, the water backs up and leaks into the inside of
the refrigerator compartment. Then the water builds up at the bottom, inside of the
refrigerator. When the water has built up for a time it may spill out of the front of the door
opening. To fix this problem, clear the drain tube or channel and allow the defrost water to
flow down to the drain pan.
In some refrigerators, the defrost water is intentionally directed down the back wall of the
refrigerator, where it then flows to the bottom of the refrigerator compartment and out to a
small drain--usually located beneath one of the drawers at the bottom of the refrigerator. If
the drain becomes clogged or blocked, the water may back up. To fix this problem, clear the
obstruction.
Another cause may be the following. The refrigerator may have doorframe heaters to
evaporate any condensation on the cabinet frame. If your refrigerator is equipped with a
switch inside that says “energy saver” or something similar, while running in that mode the
door heaters are disabled. Turn the switch to the opposite setting and wait 24 hours. If the
condensation disappears the problem is solved.
The back of the refrigerator
Water coming from the back of the refrigerator usually comes from either the ice maker water
valve or line (if there is an ice maker), or from the defrost drain pan.
Here's what to do:
If the water is coming from the ice maker water valve, check to make sure the water tubes
are attached properly and are fastened tightly.
If the water seems to be coming from any part of the valve itself, replace the valve.
If the water appears to be coming from the defrost drain pan, inspect for holes or cracks, and
replace the pan if necessary.
The inside ceiling of the refrigerator
Water accumulating on the ceiling of the refrigerator is usually caused by a clogged drain in
the freezer section beneath the evaporator. The clogged drain will cause water from the self
defrost cycle to leak into the divider between the freezer and refrigerator. This water may then
freeze and cause condensation build-up on the refrigerator ceiling. The solution to this
problem begins with unclogging the drain. It may also be necessary to remove the entire
freezer/refrigerator divider to thoroughly dry the insulation in the divider. Occasionally the
insulation needs to be replaced to prevent a recurrence of the problem. This can be a big job –
you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
The inside back wall of the refrigerator
In some refrigerators, the water from the defrost cycle is intentionally directed down the back
wall of the refrigerator, where it then flows to the bottom of the refrigerator compartment and
out to a small drain - usually located beneath one of the drawers at the bottom of the
refrigerator. If the drain becomes clogged or blocked, the water may back up. To fix this
problem, clear the obstruction.
Underneath the front of the refrigerator
If the refrigerator is equipped with a water dispenser on the freezer door, check if the water
line to the dispenser is leaking. Also, check the drip pan to be sure it isn’t out of place, broken
or cracked.
The freezer compartment is icing up
See the “Cooling is poor” section above.
The food in the refrigerator freezes
This is a common problem that often doesn't have a clear, permanent solution. The first thing
to check is the overall internal refrigerator temperature. The proper temperature should be
between 35 and 42 degrees. Here are some things to try:
If your refrigerator temperature is closer to 35 degrees, try turning the temperature up
slightly.
If you find that the temperature varies a lot from the top shelf to the bottom (where it is
coldest), try putting produce and other sensitive products on a higher shelf.
If the temperature is too low and you can't make it warmer by adjusting the thermostat, you
probably have a defective thermostat. If so, you need to replace it, because they cannot be
repaired. Other possible problems are a leak in the sealed (refrigerant) system, cold air
migration (in side-by-side models) or a defective air damper. These problems can be quite
difficult to locate and correct, we recommend you contact a qualified appliance repair
technician.
There's water dripping inside the refrigerator
Self-defrosting refrigerators dispose of the water generated during the defrost cycle, usually
via a tube or channel that directs the water to a pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. From
the pan, the water normally evaporates. (See a more detailed explanation of this in the How
Things Work section of our website).
If the tube or channel is clogged or obstructed, the water backs up and leaks into the inside of
the refrigerator compartment. Then the water builds up at the bottom, inside of the
refrigerator. When the water has built up for a time it may spill out of the front of the door
opening. To fix this problem, clear the drain tube or channel and allow the defrost water to
flow down to the drain pan.
The refrigerator never cycles off
The thermostat cycles the refrigerator on and off. The refrigerator normally runs as long as
the temperature inside the refrigerator is higher than the set temperature. If the temperature
inside the refrigerator is cold enough and the thermostat still does not cycle off, the
thermostat may be defective. If so, you need to replace it, because it cannot be repaired. If
the thermostat is not defective, you may have a problem with the sealed (refrigerant) system,
in which case you should contact a qualified appliance repair technician.
The ice maker has a problem
The ice maker is a separate appliance within the freezer section. Please see the How things
Work section of our website to learn about the normal functioning of ice makers. Some
common problems with ice makers are:
The ice maker has completely stopped producing ice
The ice maker is producing ice poorly
The ice maker has completely stopped producing ice
Check to see whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check. Look for a wire
along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If this wire is in the
raised position, the ice maker is turned off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the
down position to turn the ice maker on. On others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower
the wire. If the wire is in the proper position check the freezer temperature, it should be
between 0-8 degrees Fahranheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice maker may not
produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat, repair/replace as necessary.
The ice maker is producing ice poorly
When an ice maker is producing ice poorly--when it produces just a few cubes or none, or
when the cubes are too small--it's usually because of a clogged water line or a defective water
inlet valve.
First, check the water line attached to the back of the refrigerator for good water flow. To do
that, first turn off the water supply valve. Then remove the water line from the back of the
refrigerator. Next, place the water line into a bucket and momentarily turn the water valve
back on to test the flow. If the flow is poor, you need to repair, clean, or replace the tubing or
the shut-off valve that supplies the water. If the flow is good, you may have to replace the
water inlet valve.
There's an ice- or water-dispensing problem
The ice and water-dispensing system of your refrigerator is quite complex. Many components
work together to provide the ice and water. Aside from a simple problem of a leaky water tube
or a jammed ice chute, most other components are not user serviceable. We suggest that you
contact a qualified appliance repair technician for such repairs.