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When the guidelines for selection, assembling and maintenance are followed, a chain
drive offers a high reliability and an excellent 97% efficiency rating.
Through these pages, Regina offers the user practical suggestions for the proper
choice, assembling and inspection of the chain drive, and for the maintenance of its
components.
1
WHAT IS A CHAIN?
In order to connect the two ends of the chain to make it endless, it is necessary to use
one of the following links:
The connecting link is easier to use, but does not offer the same level of safety and
durability as a rivet link. For this reason, whenever possible a rivet link should be
used. In any case a rivet link is required for motorcycles having an engine of 250cc or
more.
2
HOW TO CHOOSE YOUR CHAIN
The APPLICATION TABLE will help you select the right chain, based on the type,
power and use of your motorcycle.
CHAIN INSPECTION
Your chain should be frequently inspected for wear, tight joints, missing or damaged
O-rings, and wear or damage to the components, especially as it pertains to the
connecting link.
Chain wear can be verified by measuring its elongation after use. The most reliable
and efficient method is as follows.
b) with a vernier gage, or a precision drawing rule, measure the distance between the
centers of two pins which are separated by a number N of links ( see next table):
WARNING!: The number N is obtained by counting the pin links as well as the roller
links.
3
REGINA INTERNATIONA CHAIN PITCH N MAX ACCEPTABLE LENGTH
REFERENCE L REFERENCE
NON O-RING
O-RING CHAINS
CHAINS
54 - 90 - 124 - 125 415 - 420 - 428 12,70mm ( / ”)
1
2 23 298 mm (11.732”) 295,0 mm (11.650”)
- 126
135 - 137 - 136 - 520 - 525 - 530 - 15,875 mm ( / ”)5
8 16 259 mm (10.197”) 256,5 mm (10.098”)
136.2 532
138 - 138.2 630 - 632 19,05 mm ( / ”)
3
4 16 - 307,8 mm (12.118”)
c) If the distance between N links is lower than the value of “MAX ACCEPTABLE
LENGTH” shown in the above table, the chain can still be used .
If the distance is greater, the chain must be replaced.
4
INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT OF THE SPROCKETS
The front and rear sprockets should be checked frequently for tooth wear (profile and
thickness) and damage, and should be replaced when necessary.
5
When replacing the sprockets, the dimensions of the original parts must remain the
same.
When selecting a replacement front sprocket, always choose a heat-treated type.
For high power motorcycles, it is recommended to use also heat-treated rear sprockets
(with induction hardened teeth), which offer good resistance to wear and loads.
After assembly, make sure that the sprockets do not have any eccentricity or wobbling
while rotating.
The correct alignment between front and rear sprockets should be checked with the
help of a straight edge or bar of sufficient length (1m or 40” at least):
a) place the bar against the side of the rear sprocket close to the center of rotation, so as
to use the widest guiding surface;
b) check if the front sprocket is aligned within ± 1 mm (.04”) with the straight edge.
When necessary, the alignment can be adjusted by using the tensioning screws or by
using spacing washers; be sure not to compromise the alignment of the motorcycle
wheels.
6
REPLACING A CHAIN WITH CONNECTING LINK
When servicing your motorcycle, always wear safety glasses and gloves.
Place the motocycle on its center stand so that the rear wheel is off the ground and
free to rotate.
Wrap both ends of the new chain on the rear sprocket so as to position them one after
the other on two consecutive teeth.
7
Install the new connecting link.
WARNING! The connecting link is already lubricated with a special grease to ensure
high performance and long life: be careful to ABSOLUTELY AVOID removal of the
lubricant from the pin surface, as this could seriously compromise the performance of
the connecting link. This is particularly important with O-ring chains, as they cannot
be re-lubricated.
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Then:
Install the spring clip, and with the special pliers (P/N 805204) push it to snap into the
grooves of the pins.
WARNING! The spring clip must be assembled in such a way that its closed end
faces the direction of travel of the chain.
WARNING! Be careful not to bend or damage the spring clip during assembly. Make
sure that the spring clip is perfectly seated into the grooves of the pins. Spring clips
should not be used more than one time.
WARNING! Spring clips are subjected to heavy vibration in use: wear conditions
should be frequently checked.
WARNING! Make sure that the chain does not rub against metallic parts of the
vehicle, such as engine casting, fork arms, guides or tensioners.
9
REPLACEMENT OF A RIVETED ENDLESS CHAIN
When servicing your motorcycle, always wear safety glasses and gloves.
Place the motorcycle on its center stand so that the rear wheel is off the ground and
free to rotate.
To disassemble an endless riveted chain, you have to cut one link. The easiest way is to
cut one link of the lower strand of the chain, where there is more room to operate.
Take the Nr.7 Chain Breaker (P/N 805330), then:
a) unscrew Bolt 1 until its tip is no longer visible;
b) unscrew the Shoulder Bolt 2; fit the chain into the Chain Breaker so that a pin is
aligned with bolts 1 and 2;
c) screw the Shoulder Bolt 2 in until the chain position becomes fixed;
d) turn slowly Bolt 1 to force the chain pin out of its plate; (be sure that the tip of Bolt 1
pushes exactly on the head of the pin); proceed until the chain pin is disassembled
from its plate and pressed out of the chain for at least one third of its length;
e) repeat the same operations a)-b)-c)-d) on the other pin of the link; remove the Chain
Breaker and disassemble the cut link from the chain;
f) the chain is now open.
Note: the Nr. 7 Chain Breaker is factory set for disassembly of 15,875 mm (5/8”) and
19,05 mm (3/4”) pitch chains; the handle of Chain Breaker contains the Bolt and the
Shoulder Bolt to disassemble the 12,70 mm (1/2”) pitch chains.
If a Nr. 7 Chain Breaker is not available, the chain can be cut with the help of the general
purpose Chain Breaker Nr. 1 (P/N 805000):
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a) fit the Chain Breaker on the chain, making
sure that the tip of punch 1 is perfectly
centered on the head of the chain pin to be
disassembled;
WARNING! When the Nr. 1 general purpose Chain Breaker is used to disassemble
O-Ring chains , it is necessary to use the special shaped spacer (which is supplied
together with Regina rivet links or connecting links spare parts); this spacer must be
inserted under the link plate to be disassembled in order to protect the O-Rings from
being squeezed by the action of the Chain Breaker, and to avoid the partial
disassembling of the bushes of the roller link. The use of the shaped spacer is
necessary to avoid damages to the chain.
11
ASSEMBLING THE NEW CHAIN
By using an old connecting link fork or rivet link fork, connect temporarily one end of
the old chain with one end of the new chain;
then, slowly pull the other end of the old chain until the new chain rides around the
front sprocket; proceed until the new chain reaches the rear sprocket.
Disassemble the old connecting link fork and eliminate it along with the old
chain.Wrap both ends of the new chain on the rear sprocket so as to position them one
after the other on two consecutive teeth.
12
Install the new rivet link.
WARNING! The rivet link is already lubricated with a special grease to ensure high
performance and long life: be careful to ABSOLUTELY AVOID removal of the
lubricant from the pin surface, as this could seriouly compromise the performance of
the rivet link. This caution is particularly important with O-Ring chains, as they
cannot be re-lubricated.
Then:
Rotate the rear wheel until the rivet link is positioned in the lower strand of the chain
where you have more room to operate.
13
FIXING THE RIVET LINK
The rivet link must be closed, by press-fitting the link plate with the use of the Regina
Press-Fit-Tool.
Use tool P/N 805181 for 12,70 mm (1/2”) pitch chains,P/N 805182 for 15,875 mm
(5/8”) pitch chains,P/N 805183 for 19,05 mm (3/4”) pitch chains.
a) Place the link plate between the holding blades 2 of the link plate carrier 1; check that it
is fully inserted.
b) Fit the tool on the chain, inserting the centering pin 3 between the chain rollers in
correspondence with the rivet link.
c) Turn by hand the bolt until the link plate holes reach the heads of the pins; tighten the
bolt by hand making sure that the pins remain well aligned with the holes of the link
plate.
d) With a ratchet wrench, tighten the link plate to full depth on the pins. Do not over press.
e) Unscrew the bolt and detach the chain.
Note! The Regina Press-Fit Tool is factory set to operate with the most common chains.
When servicing chains with oversized roller diameter, such as types 136.2 ORP (532) or
138.2 ORS (632), it is necessary to position the centering pin 3 to its lower width: this setup
is obtained by loosening the fixing screw 5 and by lowering the centering pin 3.
When servicing ORT and ORP chains, where the pin link plates have the same profile as the
roller link plates, it is necessary to place the plate 4 on the bottom of the Press-Fit-Tool
(fitted on the centering pin 3).
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RIVETING THE RIVET LINK
Note! The Regina Rivet Tool is factory set to operate with the most common chains.
15
When servicing chains with oversized roller diameter, such as types 136.2 ORP (532) or
138.2 ORS (632), it is necessary to position the centering pins 11 to their lower width: this
setup is obtained by loosening the fixing screws 12 and by lowering the centering pins 11.
After the riveting, the chain must be correctly tensioned by following the instructions of the
next paragraph.
WARNING! Make sure that the chain, while driving, will not touch any metallic part of
the vehicle, such as engine casting, fork arms, guides, tensioners or other parts.
16
CHAIN TENSIONING
Correct chain tensioning is extremely important for the efficiency and durability of the
drive:
· Excessively slack chain, on the other end, is subjected to violent whipping during
acceleration and deceleration; load on the chain will be much higher. The jumping
action may cause the chain to fall off the sprockets, with possible severe damage to
the vehicle and to the driver.
It is recommended to check and reset the chain tension based on the following
frequency:
· for road use: after the first 100 Km (60 miles); afterwards, every
400 Km (250 miles)
· for off-road use: after every time it is used.
TENSIONING PROCEDURE
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This occurs when the front sprocket and the rear sprocket are at the maximum
distance. To obtain this condition, place a load on the rear wheel (ask somebody to
sit on the motorcycle) until the centers of the front sprocket, the swingarm pivot,
and the rear sprocket are aligned on the same line. The swingarm will be parallel
to the ground.
b) To adjust chain tension, follow the factory recommendations.If not available,
proceed as follows: turn the tensioning bolts or cams until the lower strand of the
chain, when taken in the center between the fingers, can freely oscillate a total of
10 - 15mm (.4 - .6”) up and down (while the upper strand is tight).
c) Finally, fasten the rear wheel. This operation is best done when the chain is under
tension. Engage a low gear, put a screwdriver between the chain and the rear
sprocket, and turn the wheel so as to lock it in. Fasten the tensioning bolts or cams,
while the tensioned chain keeps the wheel firmly in place.
Release the screwdriver: the operation is completed.
If the chain is not too dirty, the operation of lubrication is normally sufficient to clean
the chain.
When the accumulation of dirt on the chain (sand, mud, asphalt particles or other
foreign material) is excessive, the chain must be washed with a brush and kerosene or
paraffin. After washing, the chain has to be dried immediatey with a jet of compressed
air.
After off-road use, when the dirt buildup is heavy, wash the chain with a water jet,
then dry it immediately with compresses air.
WARNING! : After washing, immediately lubricate the chain as explained in the next
chapter.
18
CHAIN LUBRICATION
Chain lubrication is of maximum importance for performance and service life of the
chain.
Since the function of a lubricant is to reduce friction, a poor lubrication will cause an
increase of friction, particularly in the working area between pin and bushing. The
effect is an absorption of energy, which is tranformed into heat and leads to a decrease
in efficiency of the transmission and to faster wear.
Moreover, the increase in temperature makes the lubricant more fluid - less efficient
and more apt to escape from the chain joints.
Consequently, when the working temperature of the chain becomes higher than
normal, it is time to re-lubricate the chain.
Other signs of poor lubrication are fast chain elongation, the appearance of reddish
areas (due to rust), squeaks, and noise.
There are many spray lubricants on the market, specifically designed for chain
lubrication: most of them are adequate, but make sure that they do not contain caustic
or corrosive solvents.
a) Place the motorcycle on its center stand so that the rear wheel is off the ground and
free to rotate.
b) Quickly rotate the rear wheel as if going backwards.
c) Spray the lubricant inside the chain where the chain is engaging the sprocket. The
lubricant should be directed between the inner and outer plates: the centrifugal
force will force the lubricant into the pin/bushing working area.
d) Successively, lubricate the chain rollers as well.
e) After lubrication, wait at least 10-15 minutes to allow the solvents to evaporate
19
before using the motorcycle.
f) The excess lubricant should be wiped away with a clean rag.
WARNING! : The chain should be lubricated every 400 Km(250 miles) or more
frequently if necessary.
WARNING! : If you wish to lubricate the chain immedialely after use, do not allow
the chain to cool down, but lubricate it while it is still warm. The lubricant will be
more fluid, and will penetrate into the chain.
20
CHAIN DRIVE POTENTIAL PROBLEMS & CAUSES
NOISY DRIVE
Improper chain tension (too much or too little)
insufficient lubrication
misalignment of sprockets
non corresponding size of chain or sprocket (ex. 136 vs. 136.2)
chain hits against other parts of the vehicle
sprocket wear
chain wear
wear, failure or misalignment of other components of the drive (guides or tensioners)
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FAILURE OF CHAIN PINS, ROLLERS OR BUSHINGS
excessive loads, heavy shock loads (as for motorcycles without damper)
excessive sprocket wear or damage
excessive chain elongation due to wear
insufficient lubrication
improper chain tension
misalignment of sprockets
misalignment of guides or tensioner
non corresponding size of size or sprocket (ex. 136 vs. 136.2)
front sprocket with less than 15 teeth
foreign objects between chain and sprocket
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