National Institute of Fashion Technology

Jodhpur, Rajasthan

Supply Chain and Value Chain of

Applique & Patchwork Craft Cluster of Barmer
Master of Fashion Management
Batch 2018-2020

Submitted By
Esha Chandra
Hemal Mahecha
Manisha Bhanker
Mridula Kaplish
Priyanka Daftari
Roma Agarwal
 वस्त्रकला
A Tale of Applique & Patchwork
 Introduction JAISALMER JODHPUR

Barmer
❖ A small town filled with vibrant colours, rich heritage and
PAKISTAN
known for warm hospitality, representing the true reflection JALORE

of Rajasthan all summed up in it.

❖ Barmer district is located in the southwestern part of

Rajasthan, one of the border districts of Rajasthan, with the
total area of 28.387 square kilometer and about 200
kilometers from Jodhpur.

❖ Ranks 7th in terms of population and 3rd in terms of area,

consists 93% rural and 7% urban population

❖ Badmer is divided into 14 tehsils namely Barmer, Baitu,

Chohtan, Dhorimanna, Gida, Gadraroad, Gudhamalani,
Ramsar, Samdhari, Sedwa, Shiv, Sindhari, Shiwana and
Panchpadra
 History & Origin
Barmer
❖ The area was known by the name “Mallinath” after
Mallinath, the son of Rao Salkha, considered a God and
still worshiped by Rajputs.

❖ Earlier it as called Bahadamer, meaning the Hill Fort of

Bahada and the name was driven from the ruler Bahada
Rao Parmar (Panwar).

❖ The region had witnessed the rule of several dynasties

such as Rajputs and the Delhi Sultanate.

❖ The name ‘Barmer’ or ‘Balmer’ was given by the British

in 18th century when the region came in the hands of the
Superintendent of the East India Company in 1836.
 Culture & Tradition
Barmer
❖ The district of Barmer is famous for its rich folk culture.
Priest singers called Bhopas, who reside here, compose
and sing music during festivals to honor the deities and
heroes of the war.

❖ There also lies a community of Muslim Dholis whose

primary occupation is drumming, and they are called to
play at festivals and weddings

❖ Carved furniture made of wood and block printing are

some of the traditional art forms of the region.

❖ Fairs and Festivals:

Barmer Thar Festival
Barmer Cattle Fair
Folk Culture of Barmer
 Introduction
Applique & Patchwork
❖ Both applique and patchwork techniques use old fabrics by
stitching different fabrics to create one piece.

❖ The art of sewing the patches of geometrical shaped fabric together

to form a textile pattern is called patchwork.

❖ Applique refers to a variety of colored fabrics and ornaments, such

as small round mirrors, layered on top of one another in order to
create elaborate designs by means of various forms of stitching.

❖ The uniqueness of some artisans is they combine both applique and

patchworks together to produce the final product made of applique
patchwork.

❖ Multicolored and vivid shaped fabric pieces adorning the

geometrical shaped textile base create a visual treat when seen a
composed applique patchwork.
 History & Origin
Applique & Patchwork
❖ The history of Indian applique and patchwork can be traced
back to the times when folk women of native communities at
Gujarat produced large canopies, tents for ox carts, hangings
were stitched.

❖ Applique work became an imperial style of elegant textile

products, during the time of Mughals.

❖ The craft is believed to be the inspiration for making quilted

bed covers made of patchwork which was frequently noted in
the household inventories of 11th, 12th and 13th centuries.

❖ Patched quilts became the basic array (pattern) for the

invention of patchwork patterns of 18th and 19th centuries.
 Regions
Patchwork and appliqué are done in many
different geographical regions of India, with each
area having its own particular local aesthetic. The
main centers where the crafts are practiced are:

❖ Rajasthan: Barmer, Jodhpur, Ranthambhore and

Jaisalmer

❖ Gujarat: Kutch

❖ Bihar

❖ Himachal Pradesh: Kangra and Chamba

❖ Karnataka

❖ Orissa: Pipli
Practitioner Community

The craft of applique and

patch work is majorly
practiced by Meghwal
community in Barmer.
However, suthar, darzi
community also practice
the craft.

These communities
comprises of scheduled
castes, scheduled tribes
and the refugees from the
Indo-Pak war (1971).
 Raw material & Tools For Applique

Fabric (Cotton, Organdy, Cambric,

Threads Water removable tracing ink
Poplin, Chanderi Silk)

Wooden Block, Hammer & Chisels Iron & Scissors Needle

 Process For Applique

Tracing of design on tracing Cutting of base fabric Tracing of design on cutted Fabric after tracing
paper base fabric

Final packed products Finished product Stitching of designed Tiding (arranging of Cutting of fabric
cutted fabric using blind designed cutted fabric according to designs
stitch on a base fabric
 Raw material & Tools For Patchwork

Fabric (Chindi & fresh printed) Threads Gawar-gum Paste

Scissors Needles Stencils

 Process For Patchwork (Using Stitching Technique)

Segregation of chindi based on quality Cutting of fabric in required shapes Preparing base by joining of shapes

Final product Running stitch on prepared base

 Process For Patchwork (Using Pasting Technique)

Segregation of chindi based on quality Spreading of base fabric on floor Tracing required shapes on base
fabric using stencils

Final product Trims & chindi cuttings pasting on base to form multiple panels for a product
 Product Range

Kurtis (Rs. 1,200 to Men's Kurta (Rs. 800 to Palazzo (Rs. 600 to
Sarees (Rs. 3,000 to 15,500) Dupatta (Rs. 600 to 2,000)
2,800) 1,800) 1,500)
 Storage Basket Pouches (Rs. 100 to Tote Bags (Rs. 500
Gift Pouches (Rs. 80 to 200) Cushions (Rs. 150 to 350)
(Rs. 250 to 800) 350) to 1,000)

Table Cover (Rs. 800 to

Dohar & Bed Spreads (Rs. 800 to 4,500) Curtains (Rs. 1200 to 2,000) Poufs (Rs. 600 to 1,500)
2,500)
 SURE- Society To Uplift Rural Economy

Vision: Reached out to Working with

Established in upliftment of many villages village
the year 1990 the tradition and made communities on
started by with the rural “Mahila health,
Shri Magraj economy and Mandals of education and
Jain condition of around 400 drought relief
women women. works.

It is a non- government organization located in the
Barmer (Rajasthan). With the objective of empowering
the artisans, uplifting their socio- economic status and
encouraging independence, they have given them a
platform that is respectable and dignified for their craft.
Today they assists the artisans in supplying a wide variety of
products ranging from bed sheets, pillow covers, curtains,
bags and many more. These are designed in a way that
reflects current market trends and profit from these help
them to support education, and health care facilities.
 GVCS - Gramin Vikas Evam Chetna Sansthan
Year of establishment: 1985
Founder: Shri Vikram Singh
GVCS is a grass root non-Government organization, working
in Barmer district. Today they are working to make rural
community socially and economically self- reliant. About
11,000 women artisan from remote rural areas of Rajasthan
are a part of GVCS, and are making large variety of
patchwork, applique products.
Mission: preserving the work of
rural artisans through design
inventions and marketing activities,
hence providing employment
They provides training to artisan to enhance their skill and
generate continuous employment for them, and help artisans
to make variable products like cushion covers, table cloth,
dress material, accessories and much more and thus providing
them sustainable livelihood
Supply Chain For Applique & Patchwork of Barmer
 Supply Chain of SURE
Raw material Buyers and logistics
Fabric Retail store of SURE
• Cotton - HLG karan, • SURE, Mansarover, Jaipur
Mumbai • City centre, Barmer
• Greige khadi: Coimbatore Domestic Buyers
• Organdi & Cambric: AK • JK fab, AK fab Jaipur
enterprise, Jodhpur • Rang sutra
• Chanderi: Arhiyan textile, • Fabindia
Indore and Fab craft, International Buyer
Jaipur • IKEA
• Poplin: Vimal Mills, Buying house
Balotra • SETU – exports to Europe
Threads Transportation
• Anchor – Barmer button • Bus services : Sai services,
store agent (they gets it Ganesh services’
from Bangalore) • Car and taxi of their own
Dyes and of buyers after delivery
• Order in large quantity – through buses.
Jaipur They provide bus services till
• Order in small quantity- Jodhpur only.
Barmer
 Supply Chain of GVCS
Raw material Buyers and logistics
Fabric Retail store of GVCS
• Cotton - Local Supplier from • GVCS, Near Civil Lines
Barmer Phatak, Jaipur
• Greige Fabric - Kishangarh, • GVCS, Barmer
Beawar, Tripura Domestic buyers
• Organdy - Navratna Textile • Reliance
Mills and Gokula Mills, • Fabindia
Mumbai
International Buyer
• Cambric - Jaipur, Ajmer
• IKEA
• Poplin - Vimal Mills and
Transportation
Ummed Mills, Balotra
• Truck services : TCN
Threads
• Anchor - Local Agent, Barmer
• Bus services: Jaipur
• Vardhman - Local Agent, Golden
Barmer • Car and taxi of their own
Dyes and of buyers after
• Order in large quantity – Jaipur delivery through buses.
• Order in small quantity - They provide bus services till
Barmer Jodhpur only.
 Problems
Increased lead time
Major increase is because of the
mistakes that are made by the
artisans and the correction that
has to be made to rectify them.
No proper usage of software's
No proper software is used for
effectively managing their
inventory- hand written slips
(challan) are used in the registers
for raw material and goods.
Incorrect deliveries
A lot of incorrect deliveries, &
thefts happens during the delivery
process which increase the lead
time, & decrease brand loyalty.
Lack of accessibility to banks
Artisans are not able to access
their bank accounts because of the
remote location and the distance
from the city.
 Suggestions

1. Safexpress offers cutting-edge logistics solutions to its customers, enabling them

to focus on their core competencies. The firm adds maximum value to
businesses at every level, right from providing world-class warehousing support
to ensuring time-definite deliveries of goods anywhere in India.

They cover 880 destinations,

Services
Safexpress offers a wide range
VMI, campus2home, sainik
express, virtual warehousing
,express distribution- air,
surface,
customization,
The firm provides value-
spread across 36 states and
added logistics services for 9
of innovative supply chain union territories of India, and
different business from
services including Express covers every square inch of the
Apparel & Lifestyle,
Distribution, 3PL and country
Ecommerce, Healthcare, to
Consulting. FMCG
Collaboration With Safexpress
They do
SURE, and GVSC after collaboration with Safexpress for serve in
logistics and supply chain. It will offer logistics solutions Barmer
to the problems related to increased lead time and
mishandling of deliveries.

Minimal loss of Round the clock

business opportunity safety, security and
while waiting for in- careful handling of
transit material. consignments.

Benefits
Systematic flow of
information and Better
visibility of one’s entire
supply chain
Fastest surface transit
time, and Efficient
management of
logistics
 Process & Costing
Cartons < 6 feet

Pickup of the
Invoice is given
Packing up of cartons by the
depending upon Delivery of the
Filling up of pick consignment in Safexpress team,
the weight and the order within 4-5
up request form cartons by and weighing up
distance between days of time span
themselves only of the complete
the two locations.
order.

Either through their

website or over the
phone

For costing: considering a situation where order is of 100 kgs and is to be pickup from Barmer and delivered to Delhi
then:
Quoted cost by them for 100 kgs : Rs3540 for a distance of 809.8Km
Bifurcation: Rs10/Kg = weight of orders
Rs300 = vehicle charge
1% = insurance
20% = fuel charge
18% = GST
 Suggestions
2. Opening of a Centre in Village by the existing NGO
A Centre can be opened in the villages by NGOs, where they can
reach to maximum possible artisans easily. In the Centre, these
artisans can come together for a particular time and can work
together under supervisor’s direction.

Reduced lead time

Better work Increased

environment
Benefits efficiency

Lesser product loss

 Conclusion
❖ The city of Rajasthan, Barmer which has rich heritage and diverse culture is
famous for the applique work, patchwork, carved furniture made of wood and
block printing which are some of the traditional art forms of the region.

❖ The art forms we studied were Applique and Patch Work which are the two
different methods of sewing the pieces of cloth.

❖ Barmer’s applique work is done along with embroidery for giving additional
touch of decoration.

❖ We studied the process of the craft from procuring of raw material till the final
goods and the supply chain management of the organizations working for the
betterment and upliftment of the craft. After the study we found the problems
faced by the organizations.

❖ The problems were in the logistics, financial standing and inventory

management. Therefore to improve all the problems we came up with some
suggestions like collaborating with Safexpress which is a logistics company
which would help in improving their logistics and opening of the new centers
in the villages by existing NGOs. Which would help the organization as well
as it will provide better environment for working to the artisans
3.
 References
❖ Applique Saga. (n.d.). Retrieved April 26, 2019, from travelstyleandtechnology.com: http://travelstyleandtechnology.com/style/applique-saga/

❖ Barmer – The Hidden Treasure of Rajasthan. (2018, May 16). Retrieved April 13, 2019, from travelntravail.com: http://travelntravail.com/barmer-the-
hidden-treasure-of-rajasthan/

❖ Bill Mitchell - Modern Monetary Theory. (2019, April 13). Retrieved April 14, 2019, from http://bilbo.economicoutlook.net:
http://bilbo.economicoutlook.net/blog/

❖ Bose, T. K. (2017, May 16). Art of survival: How embroidery work helps women artisans of Thar desert to overcome adversity. Retrieved April 19, 2019,
from scroll.in: https://scroll.in/article/837448/art-of-survival-how-embroidery-work-helps-women-artisans-of-thar-desert-to-overcome-adversity

❖ Gramin Vikas – Women Empowerment. (2016, July 21). Retrieved April 2, 2019, from www.swadesi.com: https://www.swadesi.com/news/gramin-vikas-
women-empowerment/

❖ History of barmer. (n.d.). Retrieved April 14, 2019, from www.yatra.com: https://www.yatra.com/india-tourism/barmer/history

❖ Hot weather conditions prevail in Rajasthan. (2014, October 8). Retrieved April 13, 2019, from www.skymetweather.com:
https://www.skymetweather.com/content/weather-news-and-analysis/hot-weather-conditions-prevail-in-rajasthan/

❖ Malani Royals. (2012, August 30). Retrieved April 14, 2019, from www.facebook.com:
https://www.facebook.com/MallinathJi/photos/a.404898672905360/404898846238676/?type=3&theater

❖ People of barmer. (n.d.). Retrieved April 14, 2019, from www.yatra.com: https://www.yatra.com/india-tourism/barmer/people

❖ RajRAS. (2016, September 13). Barmer: History, Geography, Places. Retrieved April 10, 2019, from www.rajras.in: https://www.rajras.in/index.php/barmer-
history-geography-places/
Thank You